Frank818 -1993 VW VR6 Turbo donor- Build Thread [Archive] - Page 9

Frank818

10-19-2019, 07:37 PM

MAJOR RE-TUNE ON MY ENGINE

For quite some time I was always making adjustments on my ECU, live. Mainly fuel and compensation maps.
The car was also hesitating a lot at low rpms, when launching or shifting gears at low rpm. I was applying small changes to 1 or 2 things, but it was not getting better.

This week I found out the timing map of the VR6 naturally aspirated, probably close to what OEM uses, if not the one from OEM. I realized I was way too low on timing values under 2500 rpm.
I also found a map of a guy with a VR6 turbo.
So I analyzed both maps and I built a completely new one for myself. I'd say 98% of the numbers are different now.

I also decided to go all in. I changed quite a lot my fuel map and compensation maps as well. Sometimes making small changes just don't work.

I tested all this for the first time when Brian was here yesterday. Turned out the car drove so well I did not apply any change on my maps during the ride. Which was close to 1h I believe. Never done so long without a live change.

I do have changes to apply after the fact while reading my log file, but I mean the changes were not important enough to be done live while driving.

Now the car launches so damn well, very smooth, no hesitation at all.

I also did not experience the weird pop noises or weird lean fuel situations at idle I had before.

I'm getting there. Someday it will be close to perfection, tuned on a dyno and a joy to ride! Once I find out what that metallic rattle is... :(

Jetfuel

10-19-2019, 08:01 PM

Freaking awesome Frank..
Drive the wheels off of that car...metallic rattle??? Any loose chain in your pockets??? lol

Jet

flynntuna

10-19-2019, 10:08 PM

That rattle almost sounds like something broken in the muffler?

Frank818

10-20-2019, 10:41 AM

That rattle almost sounds like something broken in the muffler?

It certainly does. But no matter how I hit on the muffler and exhaust I cannot reproduce. I also secured and changed a bit 3 installation points and it didn't do anything.

I'm still thinking it could be something inside the muffler.

Not sure how to test that!

I can remove the muffler but then what, how to test the muffler itself, maybe it needs to be hot for the rattle to happen.
I would like to test the engine without that muffler, I could use another muffler that I hang in there temporarily and I drive without the engine covers (the muffler sits at a good 45-deg angle, maybe 60, the back being higher, throwing above the bumper).

If I don't find it before the winter, maybe I'll get a cheap 3" muffler, make some cheap welds for v-band and one time test next Spring.

fletch

10-20-2019, 06:05 PM

I’ve spent all day traveling but just wanted to say it was a thrill being with you Frank and getting to experience your amazing car. My thoughts on the suspension are the same as yours. I was surprised at how smooth the car felt over those roads. Thanks again. I’ll check back soon once I have some more time to write.

aquillen

10-20-2019, 06:47 PM

Thanks for catching us up on things. Seems all pretty good save the little rattle issue. A ride in Jetfuel's 818 and my own go-carting agree with your suspension comments. Very decent ride, certainly not the hard knock stuff I had anticipated. This car is going to be a lot of fun to run around in.

STiPWRD

10-21-2019, 12:21 PM

Glad to hear you're putting down more miles! I'm surprised the permatex failed, I'm curious how you did the prep/cleaning before you applied it and how long did you let it cure? Any chance the temperature was below 50F?

For the muffler, I'd suggest removing it and shaking the pipe by hand to see if something is loose inside. Again, great to see you having more successful drives!

Frank818

10-22-2019, 10:46 AM

I think the surface might not have been very good for the Permatex. I let it cure I can't recall how long, but at least 24h. Although it was already in tank. But the fuel was very low, it only got in contact with fuel vapors during curing time.

According to you, what would make it different between shaking the pipe and muffler outside the car vs hammering on it with my fist from every angle while in the car?

I'll definately take it out this winter and use a small camera to go see inside, in case I find something weird. It's a fully straight open muffler so easy to poke inside from the inlet side. I have a 90-deg welded on the outlet so that's a little more difficult.

On a side note, I drove the car at 6h45AM this morning in the dark. Less people on the road, but colder too, although it was fine when engine hot. Got a video and pix, will post this week. It makes it different driving in the dark. Need to raise a little my headlights for better lighting.

I really start to get sick of that rattle, but I can't spend too much time now cuz I need to drive and in a couple of weeks it's over until April. :)

STiPWRD

10-22-2019, 11:25 AM

I think the surface might not have been very good for the Permatex. I let it cure I can't recall how long, but at least 24h. Although it was already in tank. But the fuel was very low, it only got in contact with fuel vapors during curing time.
I would definitely let the permatex cure in fresh air at the right temperature for at least a day or more. The fuel molecules in the vapor may have permeated through the sealer before it was cured causing premature delamination - kind of like small cracks that start at the surface and work their way in. The seal is only as good as the prep and the cure.

According to you, what would make it different between shaking the pipe and muffler outside the car vs hammering on it with my fist from every angle while in the car?
When it's on the car, it's constrained and can't move very much. When it's off the car you can really shake up anything that may be inside. It's just a thought, I assumed the exhaust would be easy to remove since it's so short and accessible. It's tough to tell from the video if something is rattling in there or the piping itself is just hitting a resonance frequency at the same rpm every time. If it's the latter, you may need to put in a "resonator" or something to damp out that frequency response.

Frank818

10-22-2019, 12:17 PM

I get your point on Permatex, thought about it but had no proof, since you confirm my thoughts, it's now anchored hard in my brain and I won't make that mistake when using Jet's aerospace sealant. Hell no.

Makes sense on the muffler, one of the first things to get removed once I store for the winter.
If I need to add something to the exhaust, then I need to find a muffler that is at least half the lenght (currently 20in I think) of my current one, cuz otherwise there is less than 2" long anywhere else on the piping to fit another piece.

I must say it did NOT rattle like that in 2017 when I went twice on a race track and clocked overall 105km. So my fair guess is it's not resonance related. It started on the day I cranked it for the 1st time with my new internals.

And it's not always at the same RPM (but 90% of the time at 2500), sometimes it rattles a bit at 2000, 2200, 3000, even 3200. But only under driving, coasting, load or downshifting. At idle if you have a great ear like me you may hear it but only 5% the loudness it is when driving. Brian went in the back with his head inside the engine bay while I was revving at idle and he didn't hear anything, but I was hearing it very so slightly. The muffler must have made the overall noise too high so he couldn't hear the rattle.

Frank818

10-22-2019, 07:27 PM

This is my driving in the dark this morning. Finger in the camera and rattle, those are the main topics. loll

http://youtu.be/KaunXua-zcs

Frank818

10-22-2019, 07:28 PM

And this is the unstable idle I get since I fixed my fuel pump hose.

http://youtu.be/OOzmmDwBfKk

Frank818

10-27-2019, 02:13 PM

Went for a drive yesterday.

This is the highlight of it:

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Guess what failed?

That's right, that's right, the GOD DAMN FUEL PUMP DELIVERY again. The hose slipped off from the pump again!! Honestly I'm not sure how to make that any better, it seems the pump twists with pressure and even though the clamp was tight the pump's outlet slipped off the hose.

I need to keep some twist play on the unit otherwise it's not possible to drop or remove the pump unit from the tank, due to the hole not being large enough, tnx to FFR for that. In the manual for those who got the 1st gen tank that's what they do, you slide the pump in and you need to flex the alu unit (at the hanger bolt and hose) in order to get the return tubing and other metal parts inside the damn hole.

On the other hand, why is this only happening to me?? I believe...

This damn thing failed 4 times in 250km and you know you cannot mess with fuel delivery. This time I didn't get lucky and was driving.

This is the exact reason why I am very very very afraid of driving the car more than 5-6km away from home.... :(
Not sure when I'll build trust in this car but so far my trust is going down.

The problem is I cannot test my fuel solutions other than by driving the car.

I was thinking maybe 4bar pressure is too much and I should swap for a 3bar FPR, but who knows if it'll help... and if I do swap, then what's gonna change on my fuel map and will it be a problem at full boost once I get the car on the dyno and will it make the engine less driveable (some say yes on google)... no one knows cuz even after googling I could not determine if I need a 4bar FPR or if with 3bar I would be ok.

A lot of uncertain stuff here and I'm playing with fuel, so not very good.

No I am not frustrated. That is long gone. Now I have rage inside. I had so much rage yesterday that I could have exploded a 3-feet thick concrete wall with my bare hands. All this sucks so much and I don't understand why I get all these issues or what I could do wrong in order for that to happen so many times. But that's how it is and I can't change the past. Can't hardly change the future as well cuz I can't know for sure if my fixes will work. I gotta try something, drive and tow the car if it fails. Very sad situation, but again that's life of a full custom car, I've got only ME to complain about.

One thing to note, have gone 100% FFR standard I would still have gotten that problem, cuz fuel delivery here is independent from the VR6 transplant and I would have done the same thing with a Subaru engine.

Scargo

10-27-2019, 03:28 PM

Jetfuel

10-27-2019, 04:13 PM

Oh man...we didn't want to hear that...anyways..
Totally agree with Scargo...
Get rid of that clamp...create some type of barb on the pump outlet tube...a dremel comes to mind...stager the half moon cuts and double clamp it

Jet

Ajzride

10-27-2019, 04:58 PM

Borrow a bubble flare tool and put a flare on it and then use a stepless clamp.

Frank818

10-27-2019, 05:56 PM

How is the hose retained other than the clamps? Is there any barb or raised bead on the end of the tube from the pump?
I ask because I could not keep an intercooler hose on without a raised bead. No matter how tight it was clamped, it slid off, and that was only 21 PSI!
Fuel makes for a good lubricant too.

Exactly that's the problem. But it's not on the metal tubing, it's on the plastic outlet of the pump itself, so I cannot barb that thing.

Take a look at the pix on their website: https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/fuel-delivery/high-flow-fuel-pumps/340lph-high-flow-in-tank-fuel-pump-offset-inlet

This is how I'm trying now...

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Frank818

10-27-2019, 06:05 PM

Still managed to record a video yesterday, I got a new phone this week so I was trying it. I think the sound is clearer with that phone.

http://youtu.be/arBkp8xv85A

Ajzride

10-27-2019, 06:21 PM

Build a psuedo-flare using JBWeld to help hold the hose on.

Frank818

10-27-2019, 06:42 PM

Hum, will it work, the 5/16 hose is very tigth to slide over the outlet nipple, I think if I make it any bigger it will not slide in. I could try and see but if it doesn't work I have to dremmel it off and it's plastic I wouldn't want to break the outlet. Rollbacking the JB Weld may not be easy, that's what I mean. I'll take a closer look.

On the other hand I could just buy another brand pump with a better bead on the outlet.

Anyone know a good brand for such type of pump?
Aeromotive maybe? Needs to support at least 60psi pressure, I think this AEM goes to 90 or 100.

Frank818

10-27-2019, 06:47 PM

Yeah how about this one?

https://aeromotiveinc.com/product/340-fuel-pump-offset-inlet-2/

It has a metal bead, seems a little bigger.

And here's a list of various intank pumps, that could be helpful!

https://www.realstreetperformance.com/blog/fuel-pump-test-2018-real-street-performance/

(https://www.realstreetperformance.com/blog/fuel-pump-test-2018-real-street-performance/)
Whoa! Check out the double bead on this one!!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/340-LPH-In-tank-high-pressure-Universal-fuel-pump-E85-OK-Proflow-PFEFS11150-/151916611254 (https://www.realstreetperformance.com/blog/fuel-pump-test-2018-real-street-performance/)

Jetfuel

10-27-2019, 07:36 PM

Good idea to hold the hose back
Try safety wire instead of tye-wrap just in case the fuel dries up the plastic
On the plastic outlet of the pump just rough up the smooth finish of the plastic to give the hose something extra to bite on

Jet

aquillen

10-27-2019, 09:57 PM

Jetfuel's plan to rough the plastic surface somewhat makes sense. If I understand correctly the short hose between the pump outlet and the bottom of the tank plate pipe stub slips off of the pump nipple - because it has enough curve in the hose to handle flex/install needs such that it can bend under pressure and vibration then slide off.

If there is room for a regular hose clamp of larger size I'd try this - put a larger piece of scrap hose (fuel line rated & slit to make it easy to install over the problem hose). Do this to protect the hose from rubbing through against a hose clamp. Then cut a small bit of the aluminum frame away to ensure the new hose clamp cannot slide up or down over time. Put the new clamp over the middle of the bend so it can't work out of there. Then the hose should not be able to bow out enough to work free. It can still flex a bit when needed but you have something that should not come apart later on.

For ty-wraps inside the tank I'd only trust the low temp rated 6/6 type nylon, others may be fine but I think these are the best as far as I could find reading up on them. But even then I'd only use them to secure wiring, not mechanical parts like the hose, pump, etc., go safety wire like JF says.

Mock up on your image:

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1572232157/2019-10-27_17.41.05a_ql3bnj.jpg

Frank818

10-30-2019, 07:21 PM

I will implement those ideas.

But not with my current pump. I ordered a new one from DeatschWerks that has a nice double barbed outlet. Sounded like a very slightly better architecture behind it as well but that’s not the reason for this choice. At the minimum it needed to meet my fuel requirements of course and then a solid outlet.

No matter the solution with my current AEM pump, I will NOT trust it again. And I can tell you that feeling of driving with a big Damocles sword over your head is not pleasant at all. Right, Adam? :)

I want to remove that sword, I want to gain confidence in the car and that was the only way regarding the fuel pump.

Speaking of which, the fuel pick-up unit from FFR comes from an OEM 86-93 Mustang…

https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9407B/1987-93-Mustang-Fuel-Pump-Bracket

However I found out the way FFR flared the pump hole on the tank is different than how Ford did it on their Mustang tank. This may explain why the seal on FFR’s tank is very very bad.

The car is now stored until March or April. I’ve got so much to work on + fixing my bike, it will be a very busy winter.

However after 260km in 1 month NOTHING got worse on the car. Assuming this new pump will fix the hose sliding off, then I should be good for a long drive next year, hopefully without my annoying and very embarrassing rattle.

My humongous rage of the pump failing again has passed away, temps are going down this week and will continue to drop for months, so maybe I lost 2-3 rides and not very cool ones anyway. Since I have a lot to work on, it’s better if I stop now and have those 3-4 weeks more to work on the car rather than keep it running for 2-3 so-so rides.

Frank818

10-30-2019, 07:24 PM

My last comment on my recent rides has nothing to do with FFR or Subaru. This rebuilt VR6 engine is hard to tune.

Right after I fixed the fuel pump hose the 1st time, my 3 exhaust side cylinders started running very rich immediately at cranking. No other change on the car.
It was so unstable at idle when warm (bouncing rpms) and many times while driving, I had to check what was wrong. Didn’t find any explanation, so I changed the plugs as a start.

It immediately fixed 2 of the 3 cylinders and helped on the last one.

Then I had to trim fuel off by 33% on that last cylinder in order to get it about the same as the other 5.

33% cylinder imbalance, that is a lot. And still no explanation.

Some will say it doesn’t matter, if I can trim fuel per cylinder, which I can and did, then it fixes it.
No it may not. Cuz I don’t know why I had to trim fuel off. Is it cuz I had too much fuel or cuz I have not enough air?
The latter will cut roughly 30% power on that cylinder which may cause other issues on the long run.

Out of clue on this one, but honestly re-clamping a fuel hose is a rather weird cause of enriching 50% of the cylinders, only the ones on the exhaust side and every other intake runner on the fuel line… That's how it is and how I will drive next spring, we'll see what comes up.

Newkitguy

11-07-2019, 10:09 AM

frank which shroud did you go with and fans have you had luck with?

Frank818

11-07-2019, 12:03 PM

It was seller "radiator4less" on ebay. He is totally AWESOME and he knows his products and how to calculate the perfect fit for a custom shroud, provided you can show him a picture of your setup/rad or the rad itself from a close-up pic on internet.

You have some options, like shroud thickness wrt rad fins, normal fans (like mines) or high CFM fans (draw more current and take more space for motor).

I had a LOT of lucks with this kit, day and night compared to my stupid idea of a one 14" fan and no shroud.
The fans are dual 12" from that guy, they are quieter than my single 14" fan and each fan flows more CFM than my 14" fan. I admit I must have had a super cheap fan before, but that's the only thing I can compare with anyway.

I am now able to control the fans and temps as I desire.

One of the best part I've bought for the car.

Frank818

11-11-2019, 12:58 PM

Updates on fuel pump and metallic rattle.

FUEL PUMP

How complicated!
The pump I got does not have the barbed outlet type, even though the guy confirmed it was the right part #.
I decided to start using that pump and securing differently, but while examining the pump, I found this:

117392117393

That's right! The pump got altered! Someone cut the 2 eye lids or I don't know how to call the extensions that were there. Those extensions are on a different part #, along with the normal flared outlet.

So it was obvious someone tried to fake part # 9-307 using a 9-309.
I returned the item and should be fully refunded.

I then contacted another seller who had the right picture and he told me DW uses BOTH outlet types on part 9-307, it depends what's available during assembly.
Good god, so complicated to get the pump with triple barb outlet!
The guy is looking at DW's warehouse if there's one with the barb. Otherwise I have no other option...

METALLIC RATTLE

Spoke with my mech today and showed him the multiple videos I recorded. He believes it's something inside the muffler. If that's true, he said I could cut open the muffler and fix the problem there, then weld back the muffler, by a professional. Might cost more than buying a new muffler, but the way I welded my pipes on the muffler I'd have to either buy new pipes, flanges and 90-deg elbow or have them cut with precision and re-welded back, all this would cost more than cutting the muffler and welding it back.

EDIT:
I just removed the muffler, there is a very small metallic thing rolling around inside it, but I'd say it's as faint as a nail rolling around inside a muffler, or a bit more. Maybe when things get hot it gets a lot louder, but the sounds seems to come from a very light piece. When hot it seems a heavy piece.

My mech saw my used oil while I was dumping it and there is no sparkle at all, oil looks perfect for an engine normally breaking in. So it has to be the muffler...

Frank818

11-11-2019, 01:00 PM

I noticed it gets very dusty in the engine bay, after only 260km:

117396117397117398

Frank818

11-17-2019, 07:42 PM

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I realized I didn't post my 1st external pix of the car while driving, kindly taken by Brian when he and his wife came around in October.
This allowed me to see my flashers in action from distance on the road (bumper+mirror), for the first time ever. For some reason, Brian took 2 front shots of the car and both times he timed it when the flashers were at their brightest. How smart! Or lucky............... lolll

Frank818

11-17-2019, 07:49 PM

Finished installing my new cam gears. They are pretty much exactly like Porsche's, adjustable cam gears.

These are very handy when you are not stock (which I'm far from!). Whether you get your head resurfaced, or using gasket spacer to lower engine CR (I got both!), it changes how high the cams sit and therefore it's harder to get 100% timed, as when OEM the parts are built for that spec.

Well these adjustable cam gears allowed me not only to time 100% perfectly at 0-deg both cams, but they did it with a super tight chain. There are 2 sections where the chain needs to be very tight and one section where all the slack should be. It allowed me for that.

AND IT'S SUPER EASY TO WORK ON THE CAMS IN THIS ENGINE, FRANK PEARLDRUMMER! loolllllllll

117688117689117690117691

I also took the time to replace 2 lifters and remove them all in order to pour oil inside, hoping that will help the occasional lifter tapping rattle I get when I push the RPMs more.

Frank818

11-18-2019, 07:48 PM

Damn I love this car.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nvTzcNtaSLU

In the modern age to me it's the best looking car and most bang for the bucks car USA has ever designed. Forget the Ford GT, WAY too expensive, but this convertible vette.... with the best looking American S/W ever and probably the best looking American interior as well. God I want one, even though Jeff said it's gonna have a lot of issues cuz it's the 1st year of a new Chevy model. I mean TAKE A LOOK AT THAT AWESOME CAR! :) Take it to Hennessey and you're off for 1000+hp!

Pearldrummer7

11-19-2019, 07:34 AM

Frank818

02-23-2020, 03:58 PM

Back from the temporary dead.

I decided to wait until I had real updates before posting, I didn't want to waste anyone's time. Here are a few posts updates.

Did I post a pic of my new s/w?

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This one is a LOT more solid than my previous aggressive blue one. It gives the car a completely different look from the inside, but it was required. My old s/w was flexing too much and I felt the grab was not thick enough. Also it was cheap leather imitation with some defects. This new one has no defect and is full alcantara imitation, which matches my black alcantara interior. The red stripe and red stichings give it a really nice touch! The only red I have on the car apart from start button.
The grab is a lot bigger, sturdier and the thumb placement feel is much much better. This will really change the driving feeling. 55 bucks or so.

Frank818

02-23-2020, 04:03 PM

FIRST MAJOR FIX - FUEL PUMP

Took more than 2 months to get a valid fuel pump since my last drive in Oct. I RMAed 2 pumps and got one not as good as I wanted in terms of barb tip, but still good.

Turns out the 2 DW pumps I RMAed were manually dremmeled from the factory to mimic a different pump model, even the plastic dust was still on the pump! The tip was totally not matching what was advertised on DW's own website, it was a bead like my AEM and matching a different DW model style.

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But in the end I got the non-compact pump (same size as my old AEM pump) and the tip is nicer. I applied some knife fighting technique to the tip to make it more rough and something for the hose to grab onto.

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I also totally modified the OEM FFR hanger. I mean quite a lot. That took time to think! I know by experience if I am not sufficiently convinced about a solution, that solution will fail. I was not convinced keeping the hose flexing to drop the assembly inside the tank was good. So I made the hanger solid and less than 50mm round.

I had to cut it, I also re-used the OEM Mustang hanger part that FFR ditches and I cut it, holed it and nylon99 zip-tied the pump onto it. It was not possible to have the pump straight down due to the angle on the Mustang hanger but still not bad. I have 4 screws holding the side hanger parts, they won't move.

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Furthermore, NO movement whatso****ingever on the pump. This should greatly help prevent vibrations from moving the pump and hose so the hose should not slide off again. In theory... still nervous about it but also quite confident.

Of course when I put the fuel plumbing back on for testing I didn't screw the OUTSIDE filter enough and fuel splashed all over the place when I turned the pump on, but that's irrelevant, the most important thing is I think I found a way to considerably solidify the clumsy solution I had before. What's weird is that most of you guys with the old FFR tank should have that clumsy solution, but why didn't you get the problem I got twice... weird. Anyway!

Frank818

02-23-2020, 04:05 PM

MORE FIXES

I fixed many little things too. Like speedo reading 8-10km/h too fast (did not test yet), IC temp gauge failing display and also a NEW coolant tank!

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This tank is from a VW 2.0 and to my option is required on a VR6 build (anyway the OE Corrado tank is discontinued since a long time). It's smaller and spherical, compared to my super rare Corrado tank. The new tank gives me more clearance everywhere and most importantly allows me to RAISE the tank and therefore I hope it will prevent the coolant from splashing out and dripping down when the engine gets hot and/or colds down (pressure changes). Everyone knows the coolant in the tank must be higher than the highest level of the engine/hoses. I was a bit lower before due to the design of the OEM Corrado tank. I think and hope I am higher now. 15bucks for the tank, come on it's nothing. :)

Frank818

02-23-2020, 04:07 PM

And finally...

EXHAUST RATTLE

I have built half an exhaust to plug onto the other half in order to test that really really really really annoying metallic rattle. Building an exhaust for a 10mins test, who would do that.... lolll

I'm using a race cherry-bomb-like muffler. Very nice finish and quality, but wall thickness is a bit too thin. Was harder to weld without making holes. I used inner-shield for welding cuz I had no gas and didn't want to bother ordering some, too lazy now when I work on the car. :(

The important thing is it needs to last for 10mins. More than that I don't give a... I cannot keep such a muffler it will be too loud.

What's this part?

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Oh come on, take a guess man, you have no idea??

No that's not it... try again.
Nope, still don't get it, eh? :)

It's my exhaust hanger! hahahahahha

This half exhaust section weighs about 10lbs, I just need a hanger that will last for 3-4 bumps. lolll

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Waiting for Spring and roads to clear and then we'll see what happens!

aquillen

02-23-2020, 06:47 PM

Good to hear from you - always interesting to see what you are up to. Looks like that fuel pump should hold this time.

Frank818

04-26-2020, 04:56 PM

I tested my race test muffler.

My metallic vibration really appears to come from my normal muffler, cuz there were no metallic sound with this race muffler. In fact the sound was pretty amazing, more so under accel. But way too loud, which is what I was expecting from this 35 bucks race cherry-bomb!

This and other things makes me realize my normal muffler is not suited for either this engine or this setup. The unappreciated deep throat burbles and gargles I get with my normal muffler, mostly at idle, but also at lower and city rpms, are not there with the race muffler. The race muffler has more fluid, quicker and smoother sound waves. Different frequencies and seems like better velocity in terms of waves. It reveals better the true VR6 sounds.

What a bummer, cuz changing the muffler requires a full re-design, I can't just swap, cuz the way I did the welds and use v-bands. I cannot find v-bands that fit perfect with the v-band on the DP (ebay guy is gone), so I need to cut the inlet pipe of my normal muffler and weld it on another muffler, then cut the outlet and weld it on that new muffler as well, for a 90-deg. And then probably extend the exhaust tip unless I find a muffler the same length or weld the pipes with extensions or something. Plus I do not have gas anymore and do not want to get some anymore, so I have to have someone, a pro, do the welds. Inner-shield isn't that good for long term on stainless steel, I believe.

Opening my normal muffler to see inside and possibly fix the loose metal is a long shot, cuz it only vibrates when the exhaust is quite hot. I can't make it that hot outside of the car. So what are the odds I can find that loose metal part when hot if I look inside when cold... on top, if cutting open the muffler I may cut some of the internal parts (no glasspack, see URL below in my other post).

And it's 17lbs, vs 4lbs for the race muffler. I need 2 anchor points for that heavy muffler.

For all those reasons I think I have to re-build the exhaust with a different muffler and cross my fingers it won't be too loud. I don't think I can find a muffler as quiet as my original one, that was its strength. Also like I said no glasspack, so the sound remains constant forever, it doesn't get packed with carbon or moisture. Although there are tricks to "wash" out the carbon from a glasspack muffler, so maybe it's not that bad. Glasspack material can also burn and get thrown out or absorb condensation, so it gets louder with time and you need to replace the muffler.

Will think about it. In the meantime my only option is to put back my original muffler and DRIVE. I have to drive, I have no choice. The new or re-built muffler would be next winter.

Frank818

04-26-2020, 04:57 PM

This is when I cranked, it all worked well even if I didn't touch the engine since October. You can hear it's loud, the phone reduced the volume.

http://youtu.be/IeDTexOXRtM

Frank818

04-26-2020, 04:58 PM

Here at idle, loud again, and I still got those damn tapping lifters, I removed them all and poured oil inside, I don't know what else I can do to fix that other than fixing my overall low oil pressure, but how since I don't know what the problem is...

http://youtu.be/tvSLXAVanBo

Frank818

04-26-2020, 04:59 PM

I fixed my coolant tank leaks, though, that's a relief. After expansion there is no leak, this is a first since... I can't recall how far back!

Another relief is there were no fuel smell. No unburnt fuel smell neither burnt fuel smell from the exhaust.

I want to thank so much JetFuel for his fuel sealant, that helped a lot remove unburnt fuel smell by sealing various weak places on the fuel tank. Jet, are you still around?

127269

Still got one weird leak I had last summer, seems to be red head gasket glue leaking, but it does that at every run, even if I dry it out as much as I can. I hope I can drive to my mech's shop someday and show him this, I'm sure he'll find the problem.

Frank818

04-26-2020, 05:03 PM

What are your suggestions for a muffler? I'll look them all.
The one I have is a Hooker Competition Aero Chambers from Holley and it's not very good on my setup. I think it's designed for V8s+ cuz they have usually more explosions per second which would help on this muffler. On a 6cyl it goes put pause put pause put pause put at idle, which is bad, this only sounds good on old American V8s. The race muffler I tested goes vr vr vr vr vr vr vr vr vr vr, which is better.

https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/mufflers/street_chambered_mufflers/aero_chamber_series_muffler/

But it's a 16ga alu, which is much thicker than other mufflers and easier to weld, doesn't burn holes through the pipe.

Of course it's very quiet and has no glasspack, but the overall sound isn't that great at lower rpms, it's heavy as hell and mine has a loose metal inside.

What do you think of internal cone shaped mufflers on a turbo engine?
https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/mufflers/laminar_flow_mufflers/

They are very expensive so I gotta make sure if I get one of those...

It's pretty much my only other choice for something with moderate or quiet sound (Aero Chamber has aggressive sound), that is not too long, too wide and has center to center 3", not necessarily designed for exhausts with a cat.

This is why I think it might be a great choice:

Combination (Restrictive and Absorptive)

“If you focus solely on noise cancellation or reflection, your going to end up with a real ‘tinny’ sound and not really a desirable tone. If you rely purely on absorption, you don’t cancel frequencies at the right areas and you get drone,” says B&B Exhaust’s Billy Boat. “So, what we have learned in the last 20 years of muffler design, through trial and error and practical application, is that a combination of both is what we found to be the best.”

Boat, a graduate from Arizona State University, has performance credentials from top to bottom on his resume. “When it comes to muffler design, we will implement some element of absorption, which gives it a deeper tone, and elements of reflection which helps to eliminate the drone,” Boats added.

Tauber explained how Flowmasters combination mufflers work by saying, “These mufflers use what we call broad band sound cancellation. The sound waves expand to the outer core of the muffler where the sound waves are cancelled out similar to one of our chambered mufflers. Residual sound waves are then absorbed by the outer thermal barrier, which also helps dissipate radiant heat. As the exhaust pulse enters the muffler its velocity is increased using the venture effect. The increased speed of the exhaust pulse creates a low pressure area behind it, which creates a scavenging effect. This type of technology also works very well in turbo applications.”

Pros:

Great balance of sound and exhaust flow
Great for Turbo and power adder applications

Cons (according to some experts):

Packing material can deteriorate or hold moisture

Examples of Absorptive style mufflers:
Flowmaster Inc.

Super HP-2
Pro Series
DBX Series

Canadian818

04-28-2020, 05:16 PM

Hey Frank, I have some insights on mufflers for you. The big problem is how short the exhaust is, on a regular car the exhaust is typically over 10ft long. If you’ve ever heard the difference between a strait piped car (no muffler at all) and an open header then you can attest that while it’s still loud the 10ft of piping does intact reduce noise. When planning my exhaust (already want to redo it, lol) I learned that a 180* bend was the equivalent of 5ft if strait exhaust for noise reduction. If you ever look at a Porsche 911 exhaust you’ll notice they utilize this method of sound reduction. Also learned from the 911 world that high flow cats can greatly reduce noise with negligible effects on horsepower. Not sure how helpful this information is to you, but some food for thought.

Jetfuel

04-28-2020, 07:35 PM

For sure...last summer I went down to Fathouse Fabrications (look it up wild a$$ builds) to look into an exhaust set up to make my car a little less noisy... they took a look at the set up and said..."you ain't got enough pipe"

Jet

Frank818

05-16-2020, 08:20 PM

You guys are absolutely right. I remember reading this years ago when I built my 1st exhaust (let's call it that way).

I ain't got enough pipe and I ain't got enough space for more pipe. More on that later.

I pulled the trigger and bought that Flowmaster 14" DBX laminar flow muffler. Will try that, IF I can get my parts, carriers are VERY SLOW with a lot of LONG delays, especially UPS which I never liked anyway. So far all parts are delayed and there is no ETA. Anyway, virus era...

I also found ways to build the exhaust without one single weld, which will help a lot in the design and test fitting. In the swapping of exhausts too, so I can drive as much as I can without having the car stuck inside while the exhaust gets built.

That muffler could also potentially be quieter than the one I got now, for various technical reasons. We'll see. But I'm sure the sound will be better and obviously NO DAMN RATTLE! I feel the car is undriveable with that rattle every single time I drive it for the past year so I had to pull that 50cal trigger. How can I miss the shot with such a caliber, right?

As for having more pipes, once I get the car reliable I'll rethink on that. A 180-deg 3in on 3in CLR is 9in wide. As you can see on my pictures that ain't gonna fit, I need twice the space.

I guess I need to go over the gearbox, with some kind of crazy serpentine 180-deg followed by another one and some different angles to make it work within the space. But 2 pipes of 3in going over each other take 6in without any clearance. I have 5.75-6in of vertical space between the top of gearbox and the top of the exhaust tip hole in bumper. Not good!

I'll do all I can to be satisfied with little piping, I think I can make it work cuz that very simple 10in race test muffler I tested was sounding really good and I had even less pipes than I have now or will have with my 2nd muffler.

I truly believe the original Aero Chamber I have now is not designed for my setup, unless maybe I have a lot of pipes or 8cyl+ but who knows.

Still need to make the car reliable anyway. Overflow tank started to overflow again, fuel pump hose I need to keep 29 eyes on and head gasket oil leak I need to manage and may not be able to fix without removing the head, plus my fuel map which is really hard to improve. It drives, doesn't stall, but there are always spots I have trouble fixing, which make the drive stressful somewhat. Engine management fun...

What the... all my pix are upside down and I don't even have an iphone....

128469128470128471128472128473128474128475

Frank818

05-19-2020, 08:45 PM

I'm pissed off at the car.

Are there any AFR cylinder imbalance experts out here? Countless hours on google didn't give me deep enough info to troubleshoot this one.

Up side is last 2 rides I had no leaks anywhere, a first since the engine is running in this car 4 years ago. And so far so good on the fuel pump hose, will remove it to check how hose is holding up but I think it's good. Then car should be ready for driving... but...

While I wait after UPS Canada to stop delaying packages for more than TEN days (as of today), I decided to attack my 30% AFR imbalance in cyl1 which I think it really not normal.

Since the engine has been rebuilt and fired up the 1st time a year ago, on the very 1st fire up I had to back off fuel injection 10% on cyl1 compared to others. That's a bit high but livable.
Then when the car could finally run in September that 10% shot up to 20%. And a month later on Oct I had to back off fuel by 30% on that cylinder alone!
Now in May and it's still 30% off. That means 30% less power too!

I am pretty sure that explains why I have SO much trouble nailing down my fuel map. Fuel combustion in cyl1 is unstable which causes consistent AFR fluctuations. I will never get a stable enough map to drive if I don't fix this.

I checked piston #1 using an endoscope and there's much more carbon deposits everywhere compared to other pistons. Cyl1 and Cyl6 are on the same wasted coil. Piston #6 has a little more carbon than the others, but not really out of specs, cyl1 being way more abnormal.

What happens is I am 98% certain I have 30% less power on cyl1, which causes the engine vibrations I can feel, mostly at idle, which did not exist before that imbalance, and causes a lot of other symptoms.

This is what I troubleshot so far, what else am I missing?

Injectors: not the issue here as I had to CUT fuel, so it's not a dirty injector. However could it be a malfunctioning injector, injecting sometimes too much fuel in an inconsistent way? Maybe I should swap it to another cylinder and test it out?
Leak-down test on Cyl1 and Cyl6: not the issue here as both cylinders showed a 0% loss at 20-30psi, I could barely hear the air being injected cuz it couldn't escape anywhere.
Spark plugs: not the issue here as I changed about 4 times with 4 different types/brands. Absolutely no change at all on that 30%.
Plug wires: not the issue here as I tested resistance, all the same, and tested spark outside the engine, all wires show same color and consistency level sparks.
Coil pack (wasted, not COP): doesn't seem to be the issue here as I tested #4 above, tested resistance across terminal posts, across negative and positive, tested voltage and also I tested a second coil pack. That 2nd coil pack is from a cheaper brand and I don't think it will hold the required power under boost, however sparks outside the engine were the same as my original coil pack. I could test drive it, should I? Only thing I don't understand is that 2nd pack shows a 2800ohms primary resistance whereas my original pack shows 780ohms! The terminal posts on both packs show the same 3400-3600ohms resistance.
I don't believe there is something say in my intake plenum, like a cloth at the far end, blocking some of the runner's opening, which would prevent air from being sucked into cyl1, located at the far end of the plenum/log. That's still a possibility, though! Although I think after 300km and hundreds of hours running that thing would have moved.
Coolant does not seem to have oil or fuel in it, also leak-down test did not reveal any bubbles.
Oil has been changed many many many times since and never had one bubble in it or foam, did not seem to have coolant or fuel either mixed in oil.

I must be missing something. :(
I have faced quite some hard issues to troubleshoot, like my muffler rattle, but this one with 30% less power on cyl1 is TOP1 on my list, now. Muffler was TOP2.

I think it now comes down to swapping injectors and coil pack. I don't see what else I can test and I hope it's either or (or both!).

STiPWRD

05-20-2020, 06:38 AM

Frank818

05-20-2020, 07:00 AM

Frank, I may have missed this but what caused you to reduce fueling to cylinder 1 in the first place? Are you measuring AFR or EGT's at every single cylinder? Were you getting a misfire on cylinder 1?

Also, swapping injectors seems like the easiest way to troubleshoot if one is flowing differently than the rest.

Thanks for the reply! I really need to exchange ideas as I went as far as I could with my own little mind right now. :)

I cut fuel there cuz the engine was not running normally and the AFRs were fluctuating in the too rich side. After getting the plugs out I found out that cyl1 plug was too black compared to other 5. So I cut 10%. Than later in last year it started to become even more black and I cut 20%, then 30%...

I cut fuel based on the plugs' colors in order to have matching colors, that's how I did it for the past 10 years but usually it's always less than + or - 10% per plug.

I will swap injectors. Takes too long to wait for fuel to evaporate from the rail, so I'll try to drain as much as possible by unplugging the hose from the fuel pump and while I'm there I'll take a look at that hose inside the tank.
However I think I will try my 2nd coil pack before swapping injectors. It's already in place anyway.

Would it be advisable to do a compression test even though a leak down resulted in perfect seal?

STiPWRD

05-20-2020, 07:42 AM

Ok, that makes sense, thanks for clarifying. I can certainly believe tuning a fuel map would be difficult if one injector is flowing that much different than the rest. Are the injectors new or old? If they are old, I could see how their flow rates would change over time. Are you cleaning the spark plugs each time after checking color or just replacing them?

Because your coil runs 2 cylinders and one is much more covered in carbon, I'd focus on swapping injectors first as this is the most likely culprit. I doubt the compression test will reveal any new info.

Frank818

05-20-2020, 08:25 AM

Are the injectors new or old?

Unfortunately, all 6 are totally new from a year ago when I started the engine after the rebuild. And they are from a high quality mfg, Injector Dynamics.

Are you cleaning the spark plugs each time after checking color or just replacing them?

Absolutely cleaning them all the time after each run. It's hard to remove all the carbon though but I brush with a brass brush and sometimes use brake cleaner to help. I could use my bench grinder it has a brush wheel.

Because your coil runs 2 cylinders and one is much more covered in carbon, I'd focus on swapping injectors first as this is the most likely culprit.

That's a good point actually. Time to snif some 94 octane fuel again. lolll

I doubt the compression test will reveal any new info.

Good, that's what I thought too which is why I didn't spend the time cranking the engine and setting it up for comp test.

aquillen

05-20-2020, 09:52 AM

Just me and how I troubleshoot but - I'd swap injector and coil at the same step. If it doesn't change you covered both in one test. If it does, you put one back. 2 steps max. If you swap one, then the other and still haven't found it you used two steps and not done. Of course you swap one and hit it, you got lucky.

I'll be glad to send you my home made injector pulse tester jig. Electronic box fires the injector once each time you push button. You hit a few times and measure what it totals. I built it to test my 90 'Vette injectors a few years back and then used it on my H6 last year before even trying to start the motor.

Chevy's field test procedure for the 90 was to connect factory test pulser on-car. Pressurize the line, pulse one injector (3 times if I remember) and see what the line pressure drops to. Re-pressurize and repeat for each injector. Each to drop within a very close amount to each other, crude but simple. and works too. But cylinders get a bit of wash...

In the wildest of dreams just barely maybe some very odd wiring problem, but that's getting weird (then again you've had some magic lulu's so far). If you run out of other things to try then I'd say check out the wiring very carefully.

Hey - swap that spark plug too.

Frank818

05-20-2020, 10:41 AM

Man you guys got great ideas! This is why I decided to expose this issue after months of trying to fix it and feeling bad I couldn't find the slightest thing... I can't have them all by myself, I know, and this is why you guys are awesome.

Will go with 2nd coil pack AND injector swap AND plugs swap (this first and last ones are done now for next start up).

As for the odd clog in the injector rail (which got deleted from your edit), this is the first injector at the beginning of the rail, my assumption would be that if there's a clog there it would affect all the others too, unless it is located in the rail's hole for that specific injector.
Good news is once I swap injectors I will take a look inside. Maybe there's a small rubber o-ring bit squeezed in there! That is well possible as the o-rings are super super tight inside the rail.

I got a lot to test, now. lolll

And yes, wiring at the very end, but guess what, I thought about it, just can't believe it. Yet...

I'm sure you will need your injector test bench some day! That is something I wish I had when I got the injectors cuz I wanted to test them before installing them. Let's see what those to-do tests come up with first.

Frank818

05-23-2020, 07:54 PM

Nailed it!!

It seems like! Followed the electrifying advice of Art (those who know him will understand the play on words) and the engine runs better with normal fuel trimming.

I removed injector for cyl1 and cyl3, then I did one of those funny mistake, I put both injectors side by side on a towel without marking them! Later when time came to swap them, I couldn't remember which was which. So I took off cyl5 injector or maybe 4 whatever and immediately swapped it to #1. We all do those mistakes once in a while...

Since I couldn't remember which cylinder had #1 in, when the engine was idling I played with trimming on 3 injectors and every time I trimmed 30% the car was almost stalling. So that's good news.

I also found out the engine ran better and even though I still got rich spots and a bit leaner spots, they were reproducible pretty much in the same scenarios, which means there is a pattern and an improvement in fuel map will smooth that out. Hell, I simply adjusted fuel a bit before I took off the driveway and during my entire ride I never re-adjusted. I knew it wasn't perfect, but it wasn't jerky or other bad behaviour, so I didn't need to make adjustments. That is really really good sign. Let's hope my next run will be the same so that I can reproduce the same behaviour in more than one ride.

It was easier to launch in 1st too and shifting into gear wasn't as lean and jerky. So that's an improvement.

I removed plugs and yes need to adjust slightly trimming to have all 6 the same, but no more -30%!!!

I swapped coil pack as well, my guess is the issue is the OEM-like Beru replacement coil pack. Is it the coil or the ICM, that is a good question... I will buy a MSD upgrade kit, but it uses the OEM ICM, so I think I'll have to use the one from the cheap coil pack replacement. I'll test them both anyway.

Anyway in the end I wasn't sure if the OEM coil pack could handle the power once I get on the dyno, so rather upgrade to MSD instead of failing at 28psi 5000rpm...
Besides, it's a 300 USD upgrade, so it's not a lot of money to ensure something reliable, that can handle the power and that can make the car driveable!

Also no leaks whatsoever again! 3rd in a row, they're out!

I think now I can start fine tuning things... muffler, fuel, coil pack, front alignment... and normally every time I tune it should run better and better.

I also took pix of my valves! From within! That endoscope is really great... through the injector hole and down to the valve. Or through the plug and down to the piston. Really great quality pix. That thing will help me a lot.

128904128905

Frank818

05-24-2020, 07:35 PM

Something's awfully wrong!

The car is fixed and behaving!!

This is not possible, but still. I adjust fuel on my fuel map (X axis = MAP pressure, Y axis = RPM) on a specific cell, it fixes it and next time I come across THAT specific cell it still fixes it!!!! No more fighting against a bad cyl1 spark through the fuel map!

Every ride I do is an improvement from the previous one. And still no leaks after 4 rides in a row. Obviously that never happened, I never had more 2 rides in a row without a leak somewhere.

Car was quite sharp on quick accels and launching in 1st was smooth ALL the time. Shifting was very good ALL the time, stopping at stops was flawless ALL the time, every fuel adjustment I made along my ride this early morning I never had to come back again. Except those times I had to guess the amount of fuel to trim or add, but that's fine! I add 5%, oops not enough but close, add another 2% and oh wow it's spot on and STAYED spot on the next time!

There definitely is a HUGE improvement on the mechanics, now.

I ride on early mornings cuz there's less people outside. This car is the exact opposite of the USS Zumwalt, I don't want to look stupid is I get stranded or something... lolll

Bought upgraded coils will fit that in a few weeks. This Chinese coil pack will fry sooner or later.

I need my new muffler on pretty soon, can't live with that rattle. This is why I don't have a video, I don't want you guys to hear the muffler rattle. lolll

Tomorrow is a rainy day, I will remove the fuel pump and see if the hose is starting to slide off. That's been 46km now, it should be wiggling around. If it's still sturdy in place, then I'm gonna risk myself further away from home next time. My open loop fuel map is not that bad at all, I guess I could just turn on close loop and it may smooth out a bit. But on open loop it ran better than ever today! One year problem.... ONE freaking year! And it's fixed. Same for muffler btw, that was a ONE year issue. 2020 starts good... forgot the virus, forget it, 2020 starts good.

Am I really moving fwd now and getting close to driving on the highway without fear? So far nothing tells me otherwise for the 1st time in 6 damn years!

AZPete

05-24-2020, 10:39 PM

My fingers are crossed that it continues to run right. You damn well deserve it!

fletch

05-25-2020, 01:20 AM

Frank, this is such great news to hear! I'm so happy that things are coming together for you. I still remember my ride with you very fondly. Your car is one-of-a-kind, just like your stickers say!
Enjoy this season while it lasts, and hopefully it will only get better from here.
-Brian

aquillen

05-25-2020, 08:08 AM

Yay for you Frank - my wife and I follow your aches and pains - glad to see you having a string of successes. She says "keep the faith man".

Frank818

05-25-2020, 05:44 PM

46km later, fuel pump hose still exactly in place where I clamped it!!

I am ready for driving a bit further, probably where I went with Brian last Oct, you got SO DAMN LUCKY when you came by, dude, the car was for some reason running very well, even though I was trimming 20% off of cyl1 at that time. Yeah fuel pump hose slipped off in front of my door as you remember, but it all went well before.

I found some interesting uninvited remnants of some parts inside my fuel tank...

128984128985

1st one is an electric tape. One of my early solutions, what was I thinking, never use electrical tape if it touches fuel, glue will wipe off and tape fall off. Oh well...
2nd one... I don't know! Looks like the bottom of a fuel pump, but my filter is still on and the pump is working, I really don't know... I might try to get it off one day but for now I won't waste my time on something that won't affect my driving.

Adjusted front alignment a bit, we'll see tomorrow morning.

Ordered more powerful coils. Should get all parts but one clamp tomorrow for my new muffler, so I think I'll start working on that this week. The muffler rattle upsets me more and more the more I drive it. loll

fletch

05-26-2020, 02:13 AM

Definitely enjoyed the ride with you last October. Very much a highlight of my trip.
Keep up the great work, were all counting on you!

Frank818

05-26-2020, 10:30 AM

Well it's definitely running!

I checked my plugs and they were all the same! This is a first since...oh god, 2010? 4 years after I went turbo.
I do have more fuel adjustments to do of course, but it's so much easier when your adjustments do what they are supposed to. I can see where each adjustment is going. A lot more fun.

I wanted to do a longer ride but I messed up the front alignment, this thing is sensitive, one slight deviation and it can screw everything up. Also on the road I took to drive longer there was a cop, he pulled over someone, so I didn't take chances and turned right on a street just before passing him over. I am not ready to get pulled over, don't know how the car will handle a hot shutdown and hot startup. I should try that, though.

So my next updates will be once I adjust that fuel map pretty good, do a longer ride to report how it feels, install my new muffler or when something breaks up... :( loll

mikeb75

05-26-2020, 10:38 AM

Congrats on having a stable foundation to build on!

I laughed out loud on the cop-dodging part 'cause I imagined this:
https://youtu.be/L397TWLwrUU

Frank818

05-26-2020, 10:42 AM

Hhahahahhaha!

longislandwrx

06-15-2020, 02:19 PM

black thing in the tank is def your sock retainer/fuel pump rubber thingy the sock should stay on without it, but might as well pull it out with some pliers

what about a double pass muffler to give you some more length and still be pretty compact?

https://www.amazon.com/Mugen-Style-Twin-Loop-Muffler/dp/B007O0WPL6

Frank818

06-15-2020, 05:56 PM

Yeah sounds like that to me too, I don't have long pliers to reach the bottom but I may find other tools, or 2 sticks like the Japanese.

I didn't know those twin-loop mufflers existed!
I am almost done on my muffler rebuild, takes a lot of super fine adjustments to make it fit due to space constraints (hence the idea of that twin-loop) and a no-weld rebuild, but I think I'll make it.

I'll keep that twin-loop on my list for next time, I guess one day I will change muffler again for whatever reason! It's always when you think you will never touch something that you are touching it for good.

Frank818

06-20-2020, 06:58 PM

2 major updates:

1- I have fixed my weird cyl1 coil issue by buying a nice MSD-generic setup from Ontario (quick shipping). I could have gone with the real red MSD coils, but they were too expensive for a color that does not really fit well in my engine bay, so I went with generic coils having same specs as MSD's. I can run much higher spark plug gap and they will support the power if one day I can fix all my issues and go on the dyno! The OEM coilpack would probably have failed, maybe not on the dyno, but after a while with too much power, yes. I had to crimp the wires to fit new types of terminals, there is no coming back to OEM coils. Although I still got my original wires from 1992!!!!!!

130252

Let me take a sip of porto for the next update...

2- Exhaust!!!!!!

I have re-built half of the exhaust with a new muffler from Flowmaster. This time I did it with no welds (well, almost, you'll see), so I can take out any parts if required or swap for another muffler if it has about the same length.

I painted everything with high-temp paint.

I use Permatex exhaust sealant to block off space between 2 pipes, it withstands super high temps, like 1500-1600F continuous or something.

I welded only some spots to ensure the inlet connecting pipe does not move. I think I did pretty good welds, considering this was Innershield wire!

And as you can see, I have more than 1 finger gap between the bumper and pipes. This took a lot of design time! I had to cut and cut many pipes including inlet and outlet of muffler. I did my cutting by HAND, see next post.

13025313025413025513025613025713025813025913026013 0261

I think it's fine as it is now, I'm happy with the result, it has minimal stress, fits without stressing other parts. I hope it will not be too loud and I won't have leaks.

Still need to torque the clamps, though. Must not forget before starting up! lolll

Frank818

06-20-2020, 07:26 PM

This is how I cut a 3in pipe. It takes about 20mins per cut and after 3-4 cuts your shoulder muscles take a bit of a beating, so you gotta be careful.

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I was doing it with my wheel cutter, but one pipe overheated and got elliptic! So no more cutting with that tool...

Overall the exhaust re-built took about 20-22h.

Final result:

130265130266

I now have a tip that extends beyond the bumper grill instead of inside the engine bay! lolll

This thing better work or I'm gonna scream.

Frank818

06-25-2020, 08:30 PM

It ruins again!
I mean "It runs again!"

And seriously, I had improvements everywhere this time.

New muffler is on
New coilpack is on
New spark plugs with better heat range are on
New completely refurbished timing map
Improved startup
Improved fuel map
Still no leaks!

Unfortunately, what cut about half of my pleasure is that I still have that metallic rattle around 2700-3000. That surprised me. It's different though, happens always at the same rpm, less noisy, not as loud than with my old muffler. Happens mostly when shifting gears in that short rpm range and sometimes when cruising in that range. It will rattle if I accelerate slowly in that range too. The loudest is when shifting, when pressing the clutch and rpms drop. But it's still not as loud as before, so that's good, pretty sure it's not engine internals otherwise changing the muffler would not have changed anything. There's probably something else along the exhaust line... what an issue this one, 14 months and haven't fixed it.

Now THE MUFFLER.

It's quite nice! Well worth the swap.

PROs
- Deep sound, similar to my old one but sometimes deeper
- Takes MUCH less space than my previous one
- 10 pounds lighter
- Clamps installation so easier to adjust or replace parts
- No exhaust leaks!
- Better hanger support design, both are working in tandem instead of supporting only on one side
- Quieter than my old muffler but barely, although quieter at idle and I think at higher rpms as well
- Smooth flow, smoother sound, no weird burbles at idle or when the rpms are dropping around idle

CONs
- I really don't see any, other than the price which is double the AeroChamber, but it's worth 10 times more to me.

http://youtu.be/fJk_MHQDcoQ

Frank818

06-25-2020, 08:39 PM

Now THE DRIVE

As I said I had COMPLETELY revised my timing map. I based myself on someone else's map with a 2.9L turbo but with higher CR, so to keep things safe I took his map and removed 1-2deg. I had to guestimate most of it cuz his map is based on TPS % but mine is on real MAP pressure. I know how my ECU works so I was able to convert it. It really changed the car!

Previously the car felt sluggish, hesitant, like someone with a belly full of beer and hot-dogs and unable to walk straight. Increasing timing EVERYWHERE changed all that. Now it's much more sharper and it wants to go faster than I want. Idle blips are super quick and responsive and over-run down to idle are just like on a normal car: stable.

Fuel was also very good, no adjustments required while driving. Only 2-3 small I made after reviewing my log, but it was less than 5%.

Engine seems to run like a normal engine, I believe next time I'll try to go further and longer.

http://youtu.be/cZTEDfSmQsE

Frank818

06-25-2020, 08:39 PM

http://youtu.be/S1KFbdG1zEg

AZPete

06-28-2020, 06:48 PM

Hey, Frank, it sounds nice and smooth, and revs quickly. Congrats! Now go for a drive.

(I wish you had not made this about me with your comment of "a belly full of beer and hot dogs.")

Frank818

06-30-2020, 06:41 PM

WOAAAAA!!!!! What a perfect engine ride!!

This morning went flawless on the engine side, I think the engine never ran that good in over 10 years!

Fuel was spot on every time I looked at the AFR gauge. 14.5-14.7 cruising, STABLE! No hesitation, no AFR bouncing around and absolutely no adjustment required.

Timing was AWESOME! The engine feels so alive with the increased timing map I injected into it! I'm sure now the fuel burns better and at the correct moment, which explains why it's all more stable. Previously the timing was so late fuel was burning after the fact, causing imbalance and instability. This explains a lot of my past issues!!! I was so dumbass not to discover this before. Basics of Engine-101, god damn it.

These are my spark plugs, new after a 30mins run. They are as white as new! ALL SIX!!!! Never happened in over 10 years!
I changed plugs for better heat range, since during break-in period car will always be in lighter loads condition, there is no point running NGK8 or 9s and seeing them foul immediately! So I went with Denso IK20. I have IK24s but they tend to foul, when I had a low timing map I admit!
The IK20 is the same heat range as OEM, NGK6.

I think now I got everything right: Fuel, timing, spark plug heat range and plug gap.
The most impressive is that all 6 cylinders show the same colors on plugs! That is a monstrous step fwd for me, you really don't understand guys.

130838

Densos are great plugs for the VR6. The IK24s I ran for years before, always went great and long lasting.

Engine sound is better with this muffler. Really I think it would be a great muffler for an H4 too. FLOWMASTER DBX 14". Super happy!

Impressively COOL muffler, temps are quite lower than on the outlet piping! But maybe that's normal anyway? More on that later.

I still got a few things to improve.

- Wheel alignment, god I need one but can't drive the car to shop yet due to fuel hose freaking fear
- Still a bit of metallic exhaust vibrations, which you can hear on a below video in the 1st few secs mostly, but it's still better than it was and less noticeable now, I can go on for a while with this
- I got some parts hitting each other somewhere, like fiberglass panel edges hitting or something, been like that for a long time but now that the muffler is a bit quieter I hear them a bit more. Not super important but I want to fix that some time...
- Low oil pressure, although using some Lucas Heavy-Duty Oil Stabilizer helped a bit, pressure remains low, which make one lifter valve tap in some situations.It got better with the Lucas, but not fixed. Once I go back to 20w50 I'll see.

Essentially those are the issues, a long way since over a year ago I know! A psychological issue is the fear my fuel hose will slip off again, that is a big issue in my head only time and trust will fix... getting stranded right in the left lane downtowm or highway is not a very good picture in my head!

But the car was awesome to drive! The engine revving, shifting... awesome.

I also gave a try harder on a left 90-deg green light downtown turn, quickly, 2nd gear, pushed it mid-corner. This car is NOT a Fleetwood!!! With beer and hot-dog in the trunk... There is NO chassis flex and NO chassis tilt. And NO loss of traction! I believe you gotta be on a race track to feel those 3 extremes, but downtowm it was like a train!

Frank818

06-30-2020, 06:42 PM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhxLRIuIgP8&feature=youtu.be

Frank818

06-30-2020, 06:45 PM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=55EjPxQQWlQ&feature=youtu.be

Pay attention to the AFR gauge on the left far side. You'll see 14.7 cruising and then when shifting you'll see a very brief 15+ and then back to 14.5-14.7. This is how it always supposed to be and I finally made it.

Frank818

06-30-2020, 06:46 PM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meeYFAdZTiw&feature=youtu.be

Frank818

06-30-2020, 06:53 PM

13083913084013084113084213084313084413084513084713 0848

As you can see, the downpipe is barely hotter than the pipe after the muffler!
I will put some protection. I also don't want my 3rd brake light to melt.

Ajzride

06-30-2020, 07:01 PM

Frank if you are not careful you might actually get to drive your car instead of work on it.

AZPete

07-02-2020, 11:30 AM

Frank, seeing your success has just made my whole day much better! Your AFR stays perfect but the video doesn't show your big smile and feeling of accomplishments.

Frank818

07-02-2020, 11:51 AM

All true, AZP! Since I am filming while driving, the only way I can make that happen is by filming the rear-view mirror, definitely possible! Will try to remember that next time. :)

Ran again this morning and still pretty awesome. I have interesting exhaust temperature comparison screenshots that I'll share later on. Before and after applying heat-repellent material on the exhaust and surroundings.

Those who wonder how this stuff helps or not to reduce engine bay heat, I screenshots to show the difference.

Frank818

07-02-2020, 05:40 PM

Ok temp comparisons.

Before and after the exhaust wrap only on the muffler's outlet elbow. Massive change.

131008131009

On the muffler.

131010131011

Before and after the gold sheet glued on the inside of the bumper to protect the 3rd brake light.

131012131013

And the manifold heat, which was quite higher on my second run (the one with heat protection back on the muffler and bumper). Although the max temp recorded, as you can see, was higher on the 1st pic. Maybe the location of the laser is very sensitive, here. I think the most important to compare is the muffler temp above, since how hot it is before the muffler doesn't really matter here for the comparison.

131014131015

Non-scientific, but still gives a rough idea.

The funny thing is I took those pix within the same minute 2 days apart. Some pix were within 16sec, 2 days apart. Wasn't on purpose!

So this morning's drive was better than Tuesday. I need to go further next time, otherwise I never will.

You have to know your rear deck lid panels may cause vibrations or noises by bouncing on each other or the side sails. Make sure you either give enough clearance or put some rubber or foam protection to secure them in place and prevent loseness. I did that and it fixed those tap tap tap tap noises I had, similar to when your panels are getting dismantled and will fall off.

Now this is an almost perfect cold startup, very quick to crank compared to previous YEARS!

http://youtu.be/DEdqBzd4N4E

Frank818

07-02-2020, 05:45 PM

Frank818

07-05-2020, 06:15 PM

but the video doesn't show your big smile and feeling of accomplishments.

PeteAZ (sounds Mexican but you're not), this is just for you:

http://youtu.be/hQ20HUCa5N8

mikeb75

07-05-2020, 07:17 PM

nice!

Canadian818

07-06-2020, 12:16 AM

I have an exhaust WG question for you guys.

I want to test my WG disconnected from the dump tube, cuz I think the small dump tube below might be causing my exhaust vibration. I know it vibrates when I hit on it sometimes or if I disconnect it and kink it, there is a section of the tube inside hitting the inner wall of the below or something.

If I disconnect the dump tube and make sure my WG (electronically controlled be me) is set NOT to open under say 10psi and I boost no more than 4-5psi in RARE occasions (vacuum most of the time!), is that ok? Can I drive without the exhaust flowing out of the WG and possibly setting something on fire inside the engine bay?

Yes your idea is sound, however it’s always possible that your wastegate will start bleeding some exhaust much earlier. But unless it’s shot, you’d be safe to test it under vacuum. I’d suggest removing it and give it some good revs while you’re checking to make sure it’s sealed. Please don’t use your bare hand to test, lol. You could also disconnect the reference hose so it can’t open. Obviously just for testing purposes while watching the boost gauge.

Frank818

07-06-2020, 11:46 AM

HA! Damn it, disconnecting the hose, I haven't thought about that, that's the best way to make sure it's as shot as possible! See? When you are the forums there is always something great happening! loll

I'll try that at some point during my vacations which are coming very soon. I want to drive the car more until I spend time working on it.
Need to make sure I close up the dump tube so gases don't flow backwards and up the tube. I'll use a small alu piece that I'll cut out from one of the many FFR alu panels I am not using. loll And sandwhich that in using my WG flanges.

AZPete

07-06-2020, 11:22 PM

Nice grin, Frank! Drive, drive, drive during your vacation.

Frank818

07-07-2020, 09:01 AM

No video this morning for my drive cuz they are too short, very hard to take "nice" vids while driving with one hand and watching a bunch of stuff.

But I can tell the car still runs as good as before (reproducibilty is important!!), same noises happen in the same scenarios, but also timing and fuel are still as AWESOME as before. Actually on that I remember many people complained about exhaust gases smell cuz it backdrafts in the cockpit. Well since I fixed my fuel map and timing map, the burn is so great it does not smell fuel, not even in my garage after a couple of revs. Besides, my exhaust tip is free of soot! That never happened since I am turbo in 2009 or so. It's now the 4th or so run and no accumulation of soot on the tip. I used to have soot at the instant of cranking and then all the time while driving.

It does smell a bit but other stuff, like cooked paint, hot plastic, hot rubber, hot fiberglass/wrap, hot coolant, oil, exhaust wrap, grease, etc... but it's very minor, that pleases me a lot.

My metallic vibration seems to be back to what it was with my old muffler, though. Seems to vibrate at least up to 3500-3600, it's worse when all the car is quite warm. Very very annoying.
Soon I should be able to drive to my mech's shop and I told him "you're going to identify me that f*ing vibration, man, cuz it drives me crazy as hell". loll

Frank818

07-07-2020, 07:59 PM

Sharing some good product with you guys, in case some might need it.

LUCAS HEAVY-DUTY OIL STABILIZER

131415
https://lucasoil.com/products/engine-oil-additives/heavy-duty-oil-stabilizer
(https://lucasoil.com/products/engine-oil-additives/heavy-duty-oil-stabilizer)

This thing fixed my cam follower tapping. I was suspicious about it but there was no way to know without trying! I did and it worked! What people say about this thing seems to be true, it wasn't FAKE NEWS for me.
Obviously my tapping issue is due to low oil pressure, but the low oil pressure is caused by something still unknown 14 months later, so I found a band-aid to patch it up, one that should not cause any collateral damage. Why not? Since it doesn't cost more than high end grade oil and I don't need more than 15-20% per oil change, it's acceptable.

Frank818

07-13-2020, 07:54 PM

http://youtu.be/Of64vVQx8vk

Guys you have to solidify your moving panels. Maybe the front hood, but mostly the 2 rear deck lids. If not there is a good chance if you got some gap at some places between those panels they will bounce on each other while driving and the panels seem to get softer when very hot so the bouncing is amplified. I have filled the gaps on mine with simple rubber seals and now the panels don't move at all. This removed some weird noises while driving but mostly at very low rpms or speeds or even when revving standing still when the rpms drop.

Technically speaking since my cam follower and my panels don't make noise anymore, I am only left with that DAMN metallic vibration. All the other not normal noises seem to be fixed, which is a great improvement!

On the above video from 24s to 29s you can hear the vibration and that is when oil is still cold. When it gets warmer it gets worse.

In fact, now that I have fixed my leaks, fuelling, timing, exhaust installation and muffler, wheel alignment (pretty good now can easily drive anywhere until I get laser aligned), cam follower noise, panel noises and most probably fuel hose slipping off, I am only left with my metallic vibration.

This morning I realized why I am not driving the car more than 30mins every single time.
At 1st it was the fear of the fuel hose slipping off again. But now I am ready to drive longer and further (or farther?), but as soon as I start hearing the vibration too loud, I turn around and come back home shifting at 2200-2300rpm all the time. That is exactly what happened this morning! I was about to extend my drive and TAK TAK TAK TAK TAK TAK TAK TAK, so at the next stop instead of driving fwd I made a turn right and came back home, trying to avoid as much people as possible and shifting super low when anyone was around.

I made a few minor changes today here and there and I'll see next time if it vibrates again. I have checked many bolts and nuts for looseness, brake lines, wires, heat shields, exhaust hangers, alu panels, fiberglass panels, clamps, oil pan block-off AN fitting and many other little things.
Dump tube below still on my list to check, although I did apply noticeable changes to how it was installed last winter and the noise has not changed at all.
I have one big other in mind, which would be related to the oil pump stem and gear that drive upwards the engine. Hard to reach, but what if it's not working properly, this could explain the low oil pressure and more noise when oil get hot. Although the noise does not change at all no matter the oil weight, so... I really have to swallow my pride on that noise and drive to my mech's shop. I won't make it without him looking at it.

Bob_n_Cincy

07-13-2020, 11:55 PM

Hey Frank,
I have a chevy 5.3L v8 with 400,000 Km on the clock. It sound like that until it's warmed up, then is goes away. I'ts been doing it for 100,000 Km. I think it's piston Slap.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=806MP_wDYZs

Frank818

07-14-2020, 06:57 AM

Hey Bob!! Long time no write, welcome back! :)

You are correct, I am not worried about that sound causing car problems. It simply removes almost all my joy of driving it and once I start hearing it, I get so disappointed and ashamed that I stop driving it.

It doesn't sound much like piston slap.
No sound when cold, gets worse when hot and stays there.
Started on 1st crank after my 100% newly rebuilt engine.
Changed muffler and redesigned hangers.
Removed head and manifolds at least twice since.
Removed cams and gears at least 4 times.
The sound is so crisp when hot that it has to be happening on a part surrounded by air, now that I think about it. Therefore any part in a liquid filled area is not making that noise.

The noise is louder when NOT under load. When cruising at the right spot that is its loudest. Also happens loud, but not as much, when upshifting and downshifting, for about less than 1 sec while the engine is under no load at all.

Never happens on idle or when revving up at idle standing still, yet it happens when up/downshifting while pressing the clutch....
Never ever happened at less than 2200-2300rpm.
Seems to be happening even up to 3500rpm, so far I didn't go really over that due to break-in period.
Noise does not always happen at the same rpms, sometimes I'm good until 2500 or 2700, sometimes it starts at 2400. The noise loudness varies while I increase or decrease rpms and the fluctuation is not always the same at the same rpms.

It truely sounds like (no play on words loll) a vibration related to frequencies. The engine must be sending some wave frequencies through the frame or parts around and that part shakes.
It is not the engine shaking making the noise, it is the engine sending vibrations to that part which in turn slaps on something, that's my theory so far.

So exit the oil pump rod as it is filled with oil on its entire length.
Still thinking about my dump tube bellow which I know makes a CLIP CLIP sound when I manually flex it. However I had that dump tube in place BEFORE the engine rebuild and it was not making noise.

I'll try to record a much better video next time.

longislandwrx

07-14-2020, 11:17 AM

can you just drive with your panels off and have a buddy listen to where the sound is coming from? should be able to climb around the car at that speed and find the sound.

Ajzride

07-14-2020, 11:35 AM

A 1 meter piece of heater hose held to the ear works nicely for isolating a sounds location.

Frank818

07-14-2020, 11:49 AM

can you just drive with your panels off and have a buddy listen to where the sound is coming from? should be able to climb around the car at that speed and find the sound.

Funny thing is I thought about that crazy drive! Just like Jean Alesi on top of Schumacher's car at the 95 Montreal Grand Prix... Good old days! Takes crazy troubleshooting to find a crazy noise, I guess.

There's only one place I can do that and it's not around here, too many chances seeing cops and I believe I'd get my license suspended for 7, 10 or 30 days for such thing, they are very severe about car surfing, with reasons. At my mech's shop though it would work and since he's too old for that kind of thing (and too heavy to climb), I can ask his son to come on on top of the engine bay. 1st gear should plenty do it.

Might be a bit hard to use a hose on an ear as while the car is moving and there's a lot of heat over the engine I'm not sure how he can make it, holding himself with one hand and the hose with the other, but all tricks are welcomed and I'll let him know so that we try as much things as possible. I'll have my mech take a video of all this! loll

Other than that just so everyone know the car runs great and seems all normal, which is very very great news after all this time! 50% of the countless issues are fixed, the other 50 is only that noise. loll

flynntuna

07-14-2020, 12:16 PM

Does the noise only happen when the car is moving? That would suggest I'm guessing that it's not the engine. Have you looked at the transmission, clutch, axels or wheel bearings. Just a thought.

Frank818

07-14-2020, 12:54 PM

Does the noise only happen when the car is moving? That would suggest I'm guessing that it's not the engine. Have you looked at the transmission, clutch, axels or wheel bearings. Just a thought.

Nice thoughts.

Yes only when on the move. However that doesn't mean the noise is not there at idle. It MAY be possible to hear just a VERY little bit if revving at idle but it's so damn faint, if it is making noise then, that you don't hear it or the muffler makes more noise. Impossible to record on video. Also I tried with Brian when he came by last Oct, he had his head inside the engine bay and couldn't hear crap. But while driving it was very loud.

I don't know yet what to look for around the gearbox, I checked the bolts and nuts, I checked fork play or slave cylinder stuff but didn't find anything. Of course all this when engine was cold and shut down.
Couldn't go further at the clutch and flywheel unless the gearbox is removed. But it would make sense if the noise was to come from there.

The rear right hub bearing has been changed 5 times and.. hum, the last time it got changed was during engine rebuild. Why would it only vibrate at certain rpms I'm not sure there could be a link there, I'll check for play around and on the hub. However I know at idle the sound can be heard, maybe at 5% its usual loudness. So little it's hard to come to a conclusion.

I also am 98% positive the sound comes from the passenger side or very center of the engine, cuz I hear it more with my right ear. If it were on the driver's side, I would hear it from behind, equal ears, or a bit more on my left one. Usually my ears are pretty good at finding the orientation of sounds.

The gearbox, clutch and stuff like that are exactly my questions for my mech, once I can get there. He'll have a lot more ideas on those parts than I do and if one of em can make such a noise I'm pretty sure he would know. This is also why I can't wait to drive there. lolll

FFRWRX

07-14-2020, 01:40 PM

A heat shield or bracket or something like that vibrating? I've had, and I'm sure others have too, loose heat shields that only rattle at certain RPM's. Anything on the front of the engine that could be loose? Or something close to another part; a bracket very close to another part? Bang on different parts of the engine with a rubber mallet and see if it shows up?

Frank818

07-14-2020, 02:05 PM

Right on time with this, that is pretty much what I am doing recently. Although I am not sure if when cold it would make noise even if I bang on it.

So far removed all possible shields, plates, panels, double-checked many brackets, still a few more I'll continue looking around for what I can access when everything is installed. That, your banging thing, is pretty much what's left I can do until I get my mech look at it. I might remove some stuff to gain better access elsewhere, let's see what I can do this w-e I start my vacations this Friday early morning.

flynntuna

07-14-2020, 04:46 PM

Just turn up the stereo till you can't hear it anymore. And /or install muffler bypass valve in the exhaust. If you can drown out the offending noise then problem solved. :)

longislandwrx

07-16-2020, 09:36 AM

have you tried running the car on jackstands? use a clamp to hold the car at the right rpm and walk around it?

Frank818

07-16-2020, 05:54 PM

have you tried running the car on jackstands? use a clamp to hold the car at the right rpm and walk around it?

Never thought of that, probably easier to do than unplugging my dump tube, sealing it off somehow and test driving the car. So next time I get out (and I don't know when that'll be, see next post) once I get in I'll jack it and restart it while it's still running hot. Hopefully that'll provide enough load to make the vibration occur.

Frank818

07-16-2020, 06:08 PM

Car is re-opened again.

The cause for this is 3 sessions ago after I came back I fixed a SUPER loose clamp on the turbo outlet, it was pushing air outside the intake piping when over 0psi I could hear it so I knew something was wrong. It's like a vacuum leak but before the TB. Curiously my fuelling was TOP NOTCH at that time. Turns out I tuned the fuel taking into account that leak in the piping, seemed like I made an excellent job.

Then the last 2 sessions have been troublesome a bit. Fuelling changed right after fixing that leak. I have to re-tune again, hopefully I'll get that same luck eventually. But this means I can't drive far anymore and not possible to visit my mech for the vibration, would be SO much easier to just roll the car on the lift at his shop and rev it up! (see longisland's idea above)

I found 2 other issues....

1- My ECU is reporting FAKE TPS movements. Very fast movements hundreds of times between 50C to 82C coolant temp, not before, not after. These started about 2-3 sessions ago but got more frequent in last session. The movements are about 15% fluctuations one way within 100ms, that is say 22% TPS down to 7% TPS and back up to 22%, within 200ms. Humanly impossible but say during 5sec this can happen 10-15 times, humanly impossible to be that fast and precise. Also if done by me, the map pressure would change, but RPM, TIMING, MAP, OIL PRESSURE, all that are super constant, except TPS %. It did it also while accelerating. This causes my transient fuelling to kick in so it fuel or cut fuels many many many times, which messes up my fuelling. I think I found a way to over come this without fixing it, but it may have collateral damages elsewhere, we'll see. Maybe it's an electrical issue I don't know.

2- I found out my pedal cable does not retract fully when the pedal is completely lifted up. There's about half an inch where the bead does not retract into its bowl on top of the pedal rod. This cut 3% out of my 0-100% TPS, can't go over 97%. Not much of an issue, but the pedal is super loose for half an inch and this means the cable over the fuel tank has slipped slightly out of its crimping. I had to crimp the Subaru cable and the VW cable in order to make a hybrid cable. If I let things like this, the cable may completely slip off while driving, which means 1-800-TOWING as fast as my fuel hose was slipping off. So I have to find a solution. The cables are very short, I cannot twist them around a bolt and crush the cables between washers, I don't have enough cable length over the tank. That would have been great, so I have to see what I can do.

This should delay for a few days my next drive, which sucks. Or more if I need to buy a Subaru cable and VW cable and cut them longer than I did 5 years ago.

Frank818

07-16-2020, 06:22 PM

Tried to grab some vids of the vibration this week, but the phone doesn't give it justice at all... on the other hand you can clearly hear the engine/exhaust sound, so for that matter enjoy!

http://youtu.be/nhA-onNy9cs

Frank818

07-16-2020, 06:23 PM

http://youtu.be/04wopr-k61M

Frank818

07-16-2020, 06:24 PM

http://youtu.be/pl6-Vksyvcw

flynntuna

07-16-2020, 09:44 PM

have you tried running the car on jackstands? use a clamp to hold the car at the right rpm and walk around it?

First thing that came to mind...
https://youtu.be/bqjK6jjt6gk

mikeb75

07-18-2020, 07:05 PM

just watched your most recent vid, Frank. Looking good. You just need to tape your phone to a hat so you can go hands free!

Frank818

07-18-2020, 07:37 PM

http://youtu.be/LooBeLHe-ns

Ok on this one the vibration is a little more obvious...

Frank818

07-18-2020, 07:38 PM

http://youtu.be/QAx94wXdK6A

Trying to mimic Mike... still got to record 20 times longer and I'll be equal! lolll

Frank818

07-18-2020, 07:46 PM

Fixed a bunch of little things lately. Car is back on tracks!

TPS signal fixed, at least it was. Made me better understand how to tune the throttle transients, so that was a good thing. Will continue fine tuning those transients.

My first bugs!

132054

If fuel looks fine tomorrow morning, I'll try highway.

The vibration really occurs under little to no load, the more load the less vibration.

Also exit the idea of rolling the car on jack stands. :( Cuz of my driveshaft's CV boots!!

132053

They slightly rub on the edge of the metal cup, probably not at ride height but certainly at full droop. On the road it's not much of an issue cuz this situation is rare and lasts for less than a second, say 2sec max. But on jack stands it would run for 3-5-7mins+... unless I put the stands on the spindles but I'm not sure it's safe.

flynntuna

07-19-2020, 06:01 PM

If you have an extra set of jack stands, you could support the frame with one set and the spindles with the extra set.

Frank818

07-19-2020, 07:43 PM

If you have an extra set of jack stands, you could support the frame with one set and the spindles with the extra set.

I do, I got 4 of em. Not bad. I'll keep that idea on the back burner! Tnx flyn.

Frank818

07-19-2020, 07:53 PM

A first and... a third.

The first is I was finally able to drive on the highway (or is it freeway?? What's the difference anyway?).

http://youtu.be/4r2ZcRsVDKc

This car has a lot of potential. Steering is by far the best in the world, so quick and precise, the faster you go, the quicker it is. Also suspension is amazingly stable, as well as the aero, I did not feel the car lighter, actually it seemed to be VERY planted.
The wind is pretty cool at that speed, it doesn't annoy in the cabin and it's still possible to talk, at least I was hearing myself talking to... myself. That was a test, I'm not crazy. I was not at the time I was on highway.
I think any smell from the engine bay does not come much into the cabin at those speeds. But 5mins on highway is not enough to determine that.

So then I'm good for normal drives, right?

The answer on next post.

Frank818

07-19-2020, 08:15 PM

The third is I am about to remove the head for a 3rd time.

When I came back downtown at lower speeds, the engine started to lean out across all rpms without any reason. Everything was perfect on my computer, all gauges, temps, everything my ECU sees was normal, except it started to lean out... 15.2... 15.5.... 15.8... 16.1.... (expecting 14.7) That made no ****ing sense whatsoever. I knew something was wrong but there was nothing the electronics could tell me. I had to stop on the side of the road (thank god it was 6h30AM on a Sunday, there's a reason for that) quickly and manually add 5% to my entire fuel map. I was able to get back home. Then I started to worry a lot, as always with this unreliable car.

I thoroughly checked all around the engine. Couple of good things I saw, like the driveshafts didn't seem to have suffered from the higher speed-longer time run. The CV boots were still firmly in place and the rubber didn't seem to be affected in any way. I took the good news. Then I found this ****:

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This is of course on the most difficult place to access which is right behind the firewall where I have less clearing than the thickness of a hand. No, the thickness of a hand, so you can slide down but not move any finger at all.

Obviously this is coming from the head gasket, leaking coolant. It did not seem to leak inside the cylinder as my spark plugs are absolutely perfect on all 6. But this could be the explanation to my weird lean AFRs all of a sudden.

Many people wanted me to just get out and drive the car. Me too. However this is the exact reason why I am neither driving far nor over 30mins. I do not trust this car yet, even after 2500h only trying to make it reliable. Doing baby steps with it allows me to catch those issues quickly when they occur and prevent further damages is I were to drive say 1h or so.

I will not tell you how frustrated I was and still am now when I saw this leak. There's just no word to describe my feeling. Lots of vodka poured through.

I am hoping my head has not warped.

Tomorrow I am going to my mech, I will show him those pix and I will ask him to find a solution so that I don't need to remove the head for a 3rd time in less than a year. He better find one cuz I won't accept no for an answer, not this time.

Ajzride

07-19-2020, 09:37 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=httSHnNXN10

Frank818

07-26-2020, 06:40 PM

Dr. Jekyll and Mr Hyde, that's the new name of my car.

I am fighting very hard not to remove the head in the Summer season! Unfortunately I don't believe FlexSeal can withstand petroleum based liquids and glycol, but I have all sorts of sealants around to do the job, I did try Permatex copper 700F sealant. Downtown no issue.

On highway, I did a 10mins run (record on this car) and that failed.

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Got me thinking. I followed the leak and pinpointed where it comes from, it's from the rearwards of the block, under the gasket spacer. So I put more sealant in that area and now waiting for a 5AM to 7AM non-rainy morning to try it out. If it fails, then head is off. Worst case head is off in the Winter, cuz I don't believe running with such a leak for years is ok. Could affect the head. It's just that I don't want a major servicing in the Summer.

Scary situation, while I was on highway, I heard a CLING and my right eye saw something falling down under the dash. I didn't bother more cuz I had way too many things to look at (gauges, computer, etc., everything BUT the road loll). When I entered the off ramp to exit highway, I started to downshift and the knob stayed in my hands!

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I got lucky I could slide it back in its sleeve, but obviously it was totally loose.

Looking closer in the garage, I also saw this (which you can see in the above pic):

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That tranverse rod got totally loose as well!

Come on!! 75% of this car has proven unreliable so far and this shifter, from K-TUNED and now discontinued for 4 years, is a PIECE OF CRAP. Some other guys have that shifter on this forum, if you read this, please double check yours!! I have 3 unacceptable issues with it: main shaft is loose, both knob set screws failed, that tranverse rod failed.

Put some blue loctite on both set screws and that rod and tighten everything back on. I'm not sure how I can trust driving far and for a longer period if I keep getting those weird issues every other session, literrally

Let's see on next ride out! Should be a good one, cuz last one got issues.

However when the car runs, it is ABSOLUTELY AMAZING! Hence, Dr Jekyll and Mr. Hyde.
The steering... The STEERING.... THE STEERING!!!! Do you understand?? That steering IS AWESOME!

I invested time into closed loop tuning instead of trying to have my open loop perfect. Sometimes open loop reacts differently even though all sensors show the same values in both situations. This is tricky to adjust fuel map. But my closed loop works very good, it maintains decent AFR so that the car doesn't lose power and does not get overly rich. I'll stick with that for now, which means IF the rest of the car can take it, I could drive longer and at higher RPMs.

Frank818

07-28-2020, 05:59 PM

Type 65 in my neighbourhood! Pretty sure that's one as I remember seeing the frame outside about 2-3 years ago.

Almost impossible to have 2 FFRs in my neighbourhood, but there you go!

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Frank818

07-29-2020, 05:47 PM

I think I contained the leak. It is not leaking where it was. That's only one ride since I applied the full sealant but I did push the car a little more and it was on highway for a 10mins 2500rpm stress (for mine it is!).

I did find this:

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They are further back, actually directly under the exhaust manifold.
However those are not coolant, they are Permatex red head gasket glue. Cuz the color is blood red (reminds me of Blood Red Sandman lolll) ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-CsYaduIrCs

... and for the coolant it's a bright pink when it dries out. Plus those leaks above are totally dried out! They are very difficult to access, impossible to spray anything, but for the small amount I could access by hand, I used brake cleaner on a cloth and rubbed on the leaks, I think I removed 5%. I do not believe they leaked + dried out in 1 ride. They are there from the start, excess glue.

I will continue driving like this!

My metal vibe evolved. It's not vibrating as much, maybe 20-30% less and in some very rare cases, like once per ride, the tone pitch is very different, like someone rubbing a metal blade on a metal surface and then knocking on it, hard to describe.

I checked my turbo blades and I've got no play on the shaft, no signs of wear anywhere either.

Who drove their S over 60mph? All of you I know, but did you notice how cool, on warm days, it is to rest your left arm on the frame, the 1.5" tubing that causes issues every time you get in/out of the car? I never thought it could be an arm rest but it works great for me and I get a decent upward air flow to cool my arm. lolll The air flow comes from the very poor design of the door and side sail, there is a gap between and air flows in it.
I have applied weatherstripping today to test if I can block the air. I hate how dusty it gets on the side sail, but I do appreciate the upward cooling flow.

Car seems to run better with 20-50 oil (good old 100% natural Valvoline VR1 Racing), I felt the difference when the oil and engine get hot. Feels better.

Good days are ahead I believe! We'll see...

AZPete

07-29-2020, 06:33 PM

"Good days are ahead I believe!"
I believe also!

Pearldrummer7

07-30-2020, 02:53 PM

So cool on the surprise other FFR! they look so good, especially in blue/white.

Congrats on the successful drives dude. these are the best problems to have, cuz it means you're using the thing!

Frank818

07-30-2020, 08:45 PM

these are the best problems to have, cuz it means you're using the thing!

That's a good thought, true, true... As a show car I would never get these issues. :)

http://youtu.be/qKZZ6tUAuN0

Nice ride this morning. Car ran well and could have done much longer, it really seems to like 20-50 oil, but I couldn't go any longer cuz I wanted to make sure the coolant leak was gone.

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It's not.
Too bad that coolant leak keeps showing up in various places...
It was obvious to me a pulley spread these drops. So I removed the tensioner, removed the FW and took a look around.

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Sounds like the water pump pulley.

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Yeah really sounds like it.

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This is from the inside of a hole in the pulley, looking at the block. It is that pulley, but is it the water pump o-ring?

I checked and couldn't see a clear leak coming from it, it MAY have been left over coolant running down the sides of the pump and jamming in those circular recesses (there's 2) and inside the pulley, so when it spins it projects droplets of coolant. I don't know why it did not splash the ride before, I mean I fix the leak from the gasket and next ride I see that splash coming from the water pump pulley, not very interesting.

I cleaned it up, I put more sealant on the gasket just to make sure!

If it leaks again next ride, then there's something wrong for sure.

Oh yeah, remembering Pete who sealed off the inside of the doors to the inside of side sails, I went a very easy way and "weatherstipped" a quarter of a inch wide underneath the door panels, about half an inch inside the panels, just enough to hide the self-sticky foam when the door is closed. It squishes on the passenger's side when I close/open the door and it's harder to initiate the opening on that door, but on the driver's side it's almost noiseless. So far it doesn't seem to scratch my fragile wrap and it did prevent freaking dust from accumulating at the bottom inside corner of the side sails! And it also cut over 90%, if not 100%, of the air flow coming from between the door bottom and side sail. I was impressed. I'll perfect that clumsy solution this winter, although it's very satisfying as it is now and I've got other priorities on the car anyway.

Frank818

08-01-2020, 07:23 PM

My adaptation of AZPete's door seal:

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Was a super quick temporary solution for testing purposes, but it works so well right now I'll keep it until one day I have nothing else to do on the car and decide to do "better" for these.

Frank818

08-04-2020, 02:15 PM

Major breakthroughs!!!
Plural, yes!

I'll try to structure this post so you can read according to your preferences.

K-TUNED SHIFTER

4 years ago I youtubed a prob with my shifter, it was very loose, which caused shifting inaccuracy. Out of nowhere on a rainy monday I decided to look into the shifter in case I could find how to shim the side arm, if it's easy I'll do it now instead of removing the seats, center tunnel and shifter this winter.

This is how it was since I bought it in 2014: https://youtu.be/F3t1MPv-JJ4

In the end it was not the side arm! It was the stupidest simplest possible solution, took less than 10sec!!!! All is explained by VOICE (yes that's rare I know. am no Adam) here:

http://youtu.be/6SXDy4fWbro

The car is a better joy to drive now! Shifts are very accurate and much easier to change gears!

HEAD COOLANT LEAK

Well that one is not all fixed, I know this winter I need to remove the head and install a new gasket properly. The sealant I applied helped a lot, I still find very small droplets, after 3 rides, so I continue to add sealant on top of sealant, I may have 3-4 layers now. Either at some point I will block off all escapes, or I will have to continue adding sealant until Nov when I stop using the car. So far it's liveable, we'll see what happens with time. Still, a major improvement making the car driveable.

LEAN AFR WHEN ENGINE HOT

Ha that one! My favorite!! What a story, probably the fix I am the most proud of in 6 years! This is purely ECU tuner stuff, not builder, although the cause is a failing engine part. There aren't many guys here tuning their ECU I believe, but it's still interesting to see what happened in this situation and how complex a stand alone ECU could be. Clearly my experience knowing the engine and mostly the ECU made me win this one and quickly.

I had SO MANY issues to fix in the past 15 months there were some I couldn't see, cuz others more important were taking over or hiding them or not driving long enough to see them, which makes sense, or just started later in time and weren't there at the start. This is the case here.

Recently, actually the discovery started on my first highway drive, I noticed a quite lean situation when the engine was getting very hot back in town. This almost never happened before cuz I was not driving long enough or at high enough RPMs in order to trigger the issue.

It seemed when my fans kicked in at 95C I was having all sorts of issues. For a while I tried to compensate by adding fuel at 95C in my water temp table and fuel when air intake temp was reaching 35-40C. But the way I had to do it made no ****ing sense at all! And Saturday I realized that, cuz everything else was working well so it was easy to have my concentration on this topic.

I decided to have an overall look at my log file from Thursday, all data graphed into one picture. Here it is:

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I know it's quite a mouthful, don't try to read it, just visualize it.

The red line within the right circle represents close loop fuel % adjustments and white line the actual AFR.
If you scroll to the left within the other circle, you will notice that red line follows an average at a certain height and then all of a sudden the average increases.

That makes NO SENSE! There is undoubtedly a mechanical issue or an ECU tuning issue, or BOTH. This means I was suddenly getting lean and CL was compensating by increasing fuel adj.

WTH is the problem, it happens pretty much when 3 things change: Air temp is getting hotter, Water temp is getting hotter and my fans kick in. I already adjusted Air and Water without success. So when I matched that increased red line average with my VOLTAGE drop when fans kick in (the red line pointed by the arrow), I immediately thought "Oh ****, could it be that my injector dead times are wrong??"

Do you know what Injector Dead Time is? I'll be very happy to explain if someone asks, otherwise of course Google. :)

I really didn't think that cuz I took the data from Injector Dynamics, see the OFFSET here:

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I have a 4bar (60psi) FPR, so I took the line of 60psi, makes sense, right?

On the other hand my GlowShift digital fuel pressure gauge, which was showing 58-60psi in April 2019, started to show a dead 102psi at some point between April 2019 and Oct 2019. I never trusted that gauge cuz it's cheap and I even changed the sensor as well as its location, just in case. Still displayed 102psi. I never bothered cuz all I want is that the number sticks at least around 60psi and doesn't drop down to 0 within 3sec, remember? lolll

Well turned out that cheap gauge was right!! I do have 100psi on my system! This changed the dead times, those I had keyed in my ECU for 60psi were good last year but once pressure increased to 102 I never changed the dead times cuz I thought the gauge was wrong or broken.

Maybe my FPR is broken and does not regulate pressure anymore? Easy fix to swap, just some fuel will spill but hey, I'd prefer to be at 60psi with a working FPR rather than 102 without an FPR at all.

Adjusting dead time makes my AFR stable no matter the voltage, so that helps a lot.

When changing dead times you need to retune your fuel maps. Luckily I have experience with that. Took one ride in open loop and I made it stable again. It will continue to improve with time but at least I can drive to my parents and mech's shop, now!

This change in pressure without a change in dead times in my ECU explains why I had to always adjust fuel even where I had already adjusted it, it was just not stable due to the wrong data. It messed up my map, simply. But now I know and I will retune properly.

This is why injector dead times are VERY important to have RIGHT.

More good days are ahead, AZPete!

Frank818

08-04-2020, 05:05 PM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VorejngDjbA

Frank818

08-04-2020, 06:19 PM

Yup! FPR is broken a'right!!

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Top portion of the brown plastic is cracked, not showing on the pic.

Good thing I had a spare part!
Now when I turn on ECU (without engine) I get top 70psi. Might drop at 58-60 once engine running, either way I'll key in the right dead times.

Nailed another one! Things are getting better and better!
Nailed

AZPete

08-05-2020, 03:08 PM

I love the Gordon Murray video.

Rob T

08-05-2020, 03:55 PM

Frank: Thanks for the hot tip on the K-tuned shifter. Mine was "ok" but I checked out the socket head bolt in your video on my car. It was not loose, but not tight either. Now it's tight. That made a HUGE improvement in the feel and accuracy of the shifter.

If anybody else has a K-tuned shifter, check it out. Noticeable improvement. THANKS

Frank818

08-08-2020, 10:45 AM

I love the Gordon Murray video.

Of course, you ordered one... I ordered 2, one for collection purposes and one for daily driving.

Frank: Thanks for the hot tip on the K-tuned shifter. Mine was "ok" but I checked out the socket head bolt in your video on my car. It was not loose, but not tight either. Now it's tight. That made a HUGE improvement in the feel and accuracy of the shifter.

If anybody else has a K-tuned shifter, check it out. Noticeable improvement. THANKS

Rob, thanks so much for confirming this!!! I wasn't expecting someone with a K-Tuned shifter reading this tip and having the same issue that fast, but it seems to prove what I thought, I think those shifters got shipped out to customers with loose bolts, cuz I had 1 loose bolt and 1 missing bolt (fixed 4 years ago). Very happy I did take the time to record this detail and share the video! You made my day. :)

Frank818

08-08-2020, 11:05 AM

I cannot post, I get an SQL injection error message... I have a major update to post. :(

Frank818

08-08-2020, 07:18 PM

HUGE milestone!!

First, in my neighbourhood I came across a white McLaren Senna on the other side of the road Thursday morning, never thought those would be legal in QC but there you go! Some guys pay USD1.8million to buy cars... some others build them...

2nd, I made it to my friend's shop this Friday morning!! My second to last milestone!

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Took off before 6hAM to avoid traffic (turns out there was a bit already, on a COVID Friday morning, I was surprised).

Once my friend sat in the car, I cranked it of course, we weren't off its parking and he said "Damn you give me the interest to build one! Or build a Porsche or something". Not sure how serious he was but if he does build a car, then I'd be very happy.

By seeing the car in person he realized how LOTS, and I mean LOTS, of work has gone into it. God damn right, man... lolll

Here I wanted to write something about the fiberglass parts in black I have on the sides of the rear fenders that my mech loved, but I get an SQL Injection error as if I'm trying to hack the forum so I can't thank Kurk818. :(
He also agreed on AZPETE's solution to block off the top of rad wrt to hood, which would help airflow through the rad. My water temps are slightly too high on the highway, by about 5C (in that range in F it's about 9F), which is minimal but still it would give me a better control. AZPete does it all. Did it all...

While we drove (no video I'm sorry! Was too hard while we were doing other stuff), he told me my metal vibe is certainly exhaust. Which leads me to my dump tube bellow again... He is convinced this is not engine nor gearbox/flywheel/clutch related. That helps me, I will disconnect the dump tube at some point and try that out.

So far I am 50% done in km (750) for my break-in. 400km this year and counting and NO fuel hose disconnecting! I think I can forget that one.

Coolant drops are almost temporarily fixed, I had only one small half a pea droplet starting on the sealant, but no leakage on the block or true drops on the belly pan, and that was after 4 rides, 4 of which are highway rides, 1 of which is a very long highway ride at higher rpm and 1 of which a long highway ride at higher rpm. So that's very acceptable for this season! I do continue to apply sealant over.

Other than that, NO PROBLEM for 90mins rides. Yeah ok one ground bolt loosening, but I didn't have electrical problems, just a weird clutch feeling cuz the terminal or wire was squeezing between the clutch spring's coils. Fixed.

About the 818 in general, it is true past a certain speed the air flowing over the deck lids is more powerful than the air coming from under the diffuser, this prevents dust from backflowing into the cockpit and also piling up on the diffuser itself. In other words, highway rides keep it clean. This car is designed to drive fast.
Blocking off the gap between the doors and side sails also helps a lot prevent dust from entering the cockpit.

My friend told me the steering is similar to a GT3 in terms of precision and quickness. I believe it's better than anything, nothing is better than a direct steering with no dead points. lolll

Big rigs make a lot of noises when they pass you by on highway and you are SO SMALL compared to them. In fact even behind or besides a Kia RIO the car feels small cuz you sit with your *** on the ground! Like this:

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Never thought bugs would pile up in that area, some place to keep in mind cleaning often...

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So that's it! I am really in the fine tuning now! Of course issues may happen, like they can to you guys with super reliable builds like the best in the World from AZPete, but I know now I can drive the car as long as I want, crank it up cold, mild or hot and it's gonna work and roll!

Who knew those super crazy extreme driveshaft angles would work like normal, that was the wildest guess I took and I've proven it works. I think I am more proud of that than building the entire car, it's almost like Koenigsegg when they prove to the World they can do stuff with new technology and designs no one ever thought of before. Except they do that with better solutions than I did.

AZPete

08-08-2020, 11:03 PM

It's a great feeling isn't it, Frank? The guy with the Senna just signed a check (or a loan note!), but you built your own car!
From now on, whenever you see a cool car you'll have that same thought . . . "that's nice, but I built my own".

Ajzride

08-08-2020, 11:38 PM

Awesome news Frank!,

aquillen

08-09-2020, 10:52 AM

Cheers and beers (or wine in your case ?)... rooting for you since you started. Sail on Sail on Sailor !

TheHelixx

08-09-2020, 12:50 PM

HUGE milestone!!
Big rigs make a lot of noises when they pass you by on highway and you are SO SMALL compared to them. In fact even behind or besides a Kia RIO the car feels small cuz you sit with your *** on the ground! Like this:

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Your not kiddin with the size of these things. My wife said oh it looks like it’s going to be small, like the GTI. Yeah it’s low alright.. can you spot my 818 here? lol And this GTI is lowered too..

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Congrats Frank, car is beautiful and I love the Blue.

Brian

Frank818

08-09-2020, 07:37 PM

Last milestone completed!

I have achieved all my milestones set 6 years ago. This morning I paid a visit to my parents, which "closes the project". I said to myself 6 years ago "once I take a drive at my parents', it means the car runs well enough to be considered completed and presentable to my parents."

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A lot of great cars are found in that garage, like this one:

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Quantity of pride building it: none.
% of parts, welds, cuts, holes, grease points and wires known by the owner: 5.
Nah, if he likes it good for him!

2 things I learned from my visit at my parents':

1- Going around a roundabout is really cool in this car! No roll at all.
2- I have changed my driving habits, I do not look at people anymore when I drive this car. Everyone looks at me, I try to ignore all the people around and stay focused on the road and my car.

The new era has truly begun with mine, I start it with 3 issues to fix:

1- Exhaust vibration
2- Head gasket external coolant leak
3- Clutch pedal pulsation

Not that bad considering so many other things could go wrong, or actually "already" have gone wrong so I fixed them! In a way I have a head start? :)

The clutch pedal thing, which I thought I fixed, started when I came back from my mech's shop Friday.
Only when engine/gearbox is at least at operating temp AND running, when I press/depress the clutch I have a pulsating feeling, exactly like an ABS except much slower, it pulsates maybe 4-6 times per travel.
If I leave my foot on the pedal partly pressed and clutch not engaged, it will continue pulsating.
If I shut down the engine, the pedal feel suddenly becomes perfect as usual. This rules out completely the pedal box or fluid.

It does not affect in any way the ability to shift gear, nothing I could feel (unusual slippage, no/erratic clutch engagement, etc.).

I know nothing about clutches so I have no idea at all how bad this thing can go or what it could be. I'll call my mech tom morning.

At this point, this car engages me in about 3-4h maintenance after every 30mins ride. Mostly due to issue #2. For this season I'll swallow the pill.
My goal is now not to go on the dyno in 2020, I target completing my 1500km break-in and then dyno will be next Spring. I prefer not to push the car with that head gasket leakage, there is no chance anyway I could make it on the dyno until late Sep or even mid-Oct, which is pretty much the end of the season, depending on when bad weather will start. Let's aim to fix my issues 1st. I know I can!

Frank818

08-09-2020, 07:44 PM

Cheers and beers (or wine in your case ?)...

Anything with alcohol does the trick!

Your not kiddin with the size of these things. My wife said oh it looks like it’s going to be small, like the GTI. Yeah it’s low alright.. can you spot my 818 here? lol And this GTI is lowered too..

133306

Congrats Frank, car is beautiful and I love the Blue.

Brian

Tnx Brian! Yeah your picture tells a lot and it's really like that when you drive it on 2+lanes roads! Maybe it's the same feeling those with Miata's have? Not sure cuz I believe you sit higher in a Miata and that would make a huge perspective difference.

Definitely a different feeling than riding a motorcycle, you sit much higher on those and the fact you got no body nor windscreen you don't feel to be "small", but in the 818 it's like "God damn it, am I driving a mechanic creeper bed or what?" lolln

aquillen

08-10-2020, 09:23 AM

Frank - your car looks fabulous. I keep her informed on your issues and subsequent victories. Your latest has become "journal worthy". She keeps a family journal of events and finally made an entry about following your build log and getting road worthy this last few days. Congrats.

Frank818

08-17-2020, 06:47 PM

Yes Art, every time I post some news I think about your wife's reaction, so I try to come up with news better than the previous one every single time, although it does not work that way all the time. loll

Fighting very hard to seal that coolant leak, but it always finds a passage to drop some down the block and pulleys.
I also found, by mistake, a lot of coolant inside a weird pass-through hole on the coolant pump. The hole starts at the top and ends on that picture:

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When I blew compressed air inside the opposite opening that looks the same as on the picture except it's on top, it blew off coolant on my crank pulley, and that explains why I always have splashes just under the water pump pulley. Not sure where and when it came from, hopefully from those times it was leaking at the top of the gasket and filling up the hole, then from time to time with vibrations and whatnots coolant from that hole fell on the inside on the water pulley and splashed at the bottom. That's my theory, I don't think that hole goes inside the pump and coolant from the pump leaks in it! I have no idea what that hole is used for... other than collecting my coolant!

I had 3 things to fix, 2 updates:

2- Head gasket external coolant leak -- Still fighting hard, getting close to a temp fix for this season. So far this prevents me from driving more than 35-40mins at a time and requires 3h maintenance after each ride.
3- Clutch pedal pulsation -- Fixed last Monday by my mech, this is normal behavior. He has same clutch on his heavily modified 911 and once the clutch gets hot enough it does that, apparently it's a hybrid ceramic-something. Will get used to it.

As for the exhaust vibration I need to test but spending all my time fighting the coolant leak now.

Car runs quite great though! It pulls hard for 50% throttle under 3k rpm. Reaction time is sharp.
Went 2 steps colder on the plugs, from Denso IK20 to IK24 which I used to use previously on my Corrado and it seems I can pump in more timing as the plugs don't overheat. I think the IK20 started to overheat, judging by their yellowish/brownish color all around, so I had to back off on timing which backs off on power too and crispiness of the engine.
The IK20 are ONLY for break-in period and no more than 8psi boost. They are essentially OEM heat range. I think I will continue with IK24 and higher timing, so far they don't tend to foul even though I rarely boost.

Fuelling is much better and can be controlled with more precision now. No fuel smell except at cold cranks.

No fuel smell, I remember reading many threads of people saying the 818 was smelling fuel while driving.
That's just a matter of combustion: AFR vs Ignition timing.
Assuming you have no mechanical or air issues and providing your timing is at least "good enough" to completely burn the fuel, the closer to 14.7 to less smell. When you start to burn under 14.3-14.5 it starts to smell and stick on clothes and hair.

Ajzride

08-17-2020, 06:53 PM

Lots of people use fuel and exhaust smell interchangeably. Neither are pleasant in the cabin. On my 65 mustang I spent a year trying to fix running rich only to realize that is how exhaust smells if you don’t have catalytic converters.

Frank818

08-17-2020, 07:34 PM

You're right that's possibly what others meant. It may also vary from a muffler to another, depending on the technology. Too bad I couldn't test it with my old muffler, quite different technology than this one, my timing was not set right back then so fuel was not burning properly anyway.

Forgot to mention I made a styling change on my diffuser.

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When the car is outside, due to shadows it's almost never possible to see the black fins under the black diffuser and anyone, including me, thinks the diffuser has no fins. So I wrapped them cheaply in blue and now they are visible! loll

Ajzride

08-17-2020, 11:01 PM

Are your fins not aluminum?

Frank818

08-18-2020, 05:53 PM

You are correct yet again.
I started with the alu FFR fins, then wrapped them years ago in a black CF wrap and now I added a blue layer wrap to 1/3 to half the length of each fin. Usually no one lays down to look under the diffuser so from a person's height all you see is the blue wrap, now.

Ajzride

08-18-2020, 10:13 PM

I could be wrong, but I would think the diffuser is a high wear area (rocks etc). If you like the contrast the aluminum could easily be powder coated.

Frank818

08-19-2020, 07:50 PM

I thought so at first but curiously everything underneath the car is one of the areas where I have the least amount of wear: none. loll I reckon I do not live in a dusty place at all, maybe it has a positive impact.
But yes if the wrap doesn't hold, definitely I will powder coat.

Canadian818

08-20-2020, 09:30 AM

Looking great Frank! I assume that once you start building boost your AFR drops down to 12-13:1, is there any smell then? I didn’t notice any on my short drives last year and I’m down around 10-11:1 (not tuned but that’s a normal level under full boost for a rotary). I do have a high flow cat though that is no doubt helping.

Frank818

08-20-2020, 08:09 PM

As of now I capped it to 8psi, which I never hit last year and this year never until a few rides ago. My tuning is so much better, the rpms are shooting up so quickly I find myself hitting 8psi more often now, especially that it hits it with minimal TPS %, I think even under 50% TPS I hit 8psi if I let it go.

And yes that it 12.5AFR. It doesn't last long enough to smell and I guess the increased exhaust velocity also helps shooting the gases further away.
I idle at 14.0AFR and it doesn't smell, but there's not much fuel burning at idle either, so you need lower AFRs if you "want" it to smell.

Any kind of cat will provide any kind of help, yes.
Hey was that required to plate your car? If not then what are you doing with a cat? lolll

Canadian818

08-20-2020, 09:12 PM

Frank818

08-21-2020, 06:54 PM

The sole purpose of the cat is noise reduction, rotaries are loud and my exhaust is is only a couple feet long. So I added the cat and two 180* bends to try and quiet it down.

And does it work?
Maybe you didn't test an exhaust without the cat to compare.

Canadian818

08-21-2020, 07:23 PM

And does it work?
Maybe you didn't test an exhaust without the cat to compare.

No I didn’t test it without. I have been thinking about making a strait pipe to compare power and noise once it’s tuned.

Ajzride

08-21-2020, 07:43 PM

I actually tested today on the EJ25 with open Turbo, Hi Flow Cat, Hi Flow Cat + Muffler. Open headers were 114 DB, Cats were 104 DB, Cats + mufflers were 96 DB

Frank818

08-21-2020, 07:59 PM

I have been thinking about making a strait pipe to compare power and noise once it’s tuned.

Next video! I wanna see that. :)

I actually tested today on the EJ25 with open Turbo, Hi Flow Cat, Hi Flow Cat + Muffler. Open headers were 114 DB, Cats were 104 DB, Cats + mufflers were 96 DB

So hi-flow cat reduces DBs more than the HP-2 muffler, that's interesting!
You don't have a video of open turbo and just cat?

Ajzride

08-21-2020, 09:30 PM

I have a video, it’s just part of a longer clip that I’ve not processed yet.

Frank818

08-23-2020, 08:22 PM

Car runs perfect in 100 humidity.

http://youtu.be/ar9L3A01x40

Frank818

08-23-2020, 08:23 PM

Blips with an instant pop:

http://youtu.be/ahtOrWkTh0s

Frank818

08-23-2020, 08:24 PM

Leaving from my parents' condo garage, better video to come some day:

http://youtu.be/tZ-uQbIhpuM

Jetfuel

08-23-2020, 08:32 PM

Frank...that looks soooo good...but if I may just say..you're lit up like a Christmas tree up front but the back is not..sitting low and dark color car makes an easy target for distracted drivers....just saying
Once again ....darn that looks sooo good

Jet

Frank818

08-24-2020, 07:25 AM

Tnx Powerful Jet!

I can address your concerns, which would be for me as well. I think all this is an optical illusion of the video. The front DRLs are not very bright as soon as you get outside, you can only see tinny dots but not much lighting. I probably have a video with Brian from last Oct showing this, I'll check.

EDIT: Try this:

http://youtu.be/2USIXpguuEY

As for distracted drivers, what do you mean exactly? That the dark colored car would not be seen by distracted drivers? I don't really need lights for that, the car is actually very bright colored outside, but then again I believe it's the video inside that garage.

Frank818

08-30-2020, 11:43 AM

Car is still running! 1050km out of 1500 done (break-in). No engine stalling.

I went for an alignment Friday morning.

134471134472

Final result:

Front Toe In - 1/16 total
Rear Toe In - 3/16 total

Front Camber - -1.1 maxed out
Rear Camber - -0.7

Front Caster - +6

Feels like a different car, a better car. Turns in much quicker, although it was already much quicker than any car before! No more steering fight club when hitting bumps or other road imperfections. It's true an alignment is night and day.
My front was not bad, but my rear right was deadly! Over 1/2 inch of toe OUT. The rear left was almost 3/16 toe IN. So you can imagine the result I drove with for 1000km.

Taking turns with this car is the most satisfying moments I have ever experienced driving cars. Although I believe I still have a constant vibration on right turns, I have to test more.

I have 2 coolant leaks. Head gasket and water pump. Believe it or not, my NEW all cast aluminum high flow water pump crapped out. The internals are shut, cuz coolant leaks from the vents.

134473

I have had all possible weird issues with this car, now.
I blocked off both vents, but that's not a good idea. I believe I can do another 500km like this and end the season. I might remove the plugs and blow off the coolant in a few weeks just to make sure.
It seems I have controlled the head gasket leak after 6-7 layers of sealant.

Good news is I believe I can remove the pump without pulling the engine off and since I need to flush coolant to change the head gasket, it will be very minimal time "lost" swapping for another new pump.

I woke up very early this morning thinking about how to test my exhaust vibration. There is minimal clearance between the dump tube flange and WG flange, so it's out of the question to be able to block off the dump tube using bolts and nuts. I don't know how I will test that. I need to disconnect the dump tube in order to test but other than using high temp sealant and a small alu plate glued onto the flange, I don't know how I can block it off.

I don't want to not test it and find myself in the winter cutting the dump tube and finding a different solution to install a flex pipe over there. I need to get it SS welded too. And then what if next Spring it still vibrates cuz that's not the source... all that time spent during the winter for nothing and now at the start of a new season with exhaust removal and tests to perform, wasting valuable driving time. That is why I absolutely need to test the dump tube disconnected before the winter.

That is where I am now, as the car runs great, fuel is stable, timing has improved and the engine is very snappy which is great.

Next step, that damn dump tube test...

Frank818

09-01-2020, 07:51 PM

I might need some of your advice from you guys running your 818 and living with FFR’s parts installed on your car.

But first the good points. :)
If you want to skip those and go straight to the advice section, plz see below.

Firstly, following Rob’s tip I tried -1.5 camber at rear, instead of -0.7. It’s true, car turns in even quicker, I got surprised the 1st time and “over-turned” crossing the apex (well, the yellow line on the road). I can now imagine how freakin QUICK that car would be with 1/8 front tow out and camber F-2.5/R-3.0! You guys must be having a lot of fun!

Mike what was your setup for your one and only track day in the past 7 years?

Secondly, for some reason my oil pressure has increased slightly, at idle from 6.5psi to 7.5-8. And at 3000 it now reaches 60. That is a first. I don't know why but I certainly won't complained!

Thirdly I found how to cold crank the engine even faster. I had too much timing on cranking, I just reduced by about 1/3 the crank time, it now cold cranks in 1sec which is in normal car territory. Fine tuning is cool when you find nice improvements. But that also reminds how complicated and long the process is with a stand alone ECU.

http://youtu.be/9L0Q6yikg4U

Fourthly, I have tried a feature in my ECU software which controls Closed Loop PIDs differently. I tried that feature when the engine was in the Corrado and had not very good results. I tried it again now with a newly rebuilt engine and had wonderful results! This had a HUGE impact on my driving. Car is smoother, quicker, more precise with no extreme trimming/increase.

About the advices…

1- Fuel has started leaking from the fuel cap (yes, the cap) while driving and of course splashing a very little bit on the top of rear fender, enough so that I can smell fuel while driving. It piles up inside at the bottom of the FFR aluminum filler cap and its o-ring, can’t see in the pic cuz I had cleaned it but you see my setup. I am maybe at half a tank, it never did that before and I do not understand how fuel can run upwards of the filler neck or vent hose (my vent hose is connected at the very top of the filler neck, that brass fitting there, it’s the highest point). Have you guys had that issue or what could you do to fix that? The cap’s o-ring seems a bit small, the cap jiggles a very little bit once locked in so maybe a slightly bigger o-ring diameter would squeeze things in place and seal better?
But that still doesn't explain how the hell fuel backs up that high.

134638134639

2- Is it possible by increasing camber, front and/or rear, it could increase wheel vibrations when turning at a certain speed? I always had a constant vibration only when turning right and usually that happens above 40-50mph and up on tighter turns, like in/off ramps, or I can reproduce even at 25-30mph but I have to turn super quick. Left turns are a joy! But right turns it vibrates, like an engine running on one less cylinder at idle but quicker. This morning I felt the entire car was vibrating more on straight lines this time, so I was wondering if -1.5 camber at rear could cause that. I’ll back off at -1.0 for next ride and see. Wheel alignment seemed fine, car remains straight if I don’t touch the wheel.

aquillen

09-02-2020, 10:05 AM

Re your fuel cap.

My tank would not hold pressure during my tests, because of the skinny o-ring on the fuel cap. I dug around in my parts bins and found one that would work, sorry no info on a part number though. How did I find this?

I built my car to meet emissions, mostly as a personal challenge to get it all to work, and keep the OEM ECM happy. Between 2012 and 2014 any 818 posts about the EZ30 were that it would not be possible to get it in the 818 with a manual and have it run civil without going to an aftermarket ECU. So I took that as a challenge to use the OEM computer, and keep it all happy.

One of the things that must happen then is keep all the fuel tank plumbing. I changed the plumbing and made my own parts, but kept the functionality, which includes an ability for the ECU to seal the tank so it can do a pressure test looking for leaks when steady state driving on the road. I also had to leak test the tank after I welded it up from aluminum plate. Air pressure (4#), soap bubble wash, and 24 hour sit looking for any pressure drop. Fixed 7 leaks in all. The very first leak was major - the fuel cap would not seal.

And - tighten that little pin retainer set screw or someday the pin will fall out and the cap won't lock.

aquillen

09-02-2020, 10:23 AM

Frank, update, I couldn't leave you stranded. Turns out I determined what to buy and use, not junk box. McMasterCarr item. I bought the minimum 15 pack and must have used some in other things already, I have 7. You want one from me PM your address and I'll get it out. N/C for a pal in need. Art

PS, it fits good, but can get a bit tight, I put just a bit of grease (not silicone) to help.

2418T179
Material Buna-N Rubber
Cross Section Shape Round
Dash Number 224
Fractional
Width 1/8
ID 1 3/4
OD 2
Actual
Width 0.139"
ID 1.734"
OD 2.012"
Hardness Durometer 50A (Soft)
For Use With Acetic Acid
Ammonia
Boric Acid
Brake Fluids
Butyl Alcohol
Calcium Hydroxide
Citric Acid
Diluted Salt Solutions
Ethanol
Ethylene Glycol
Glycerin
Grease
Hydraulic Oils
Methanol
Mineral Oils
Motor Oil
Petroleum Fluids
Phosphoric Acid
Potassium Hydroxide
Sodium Bicarbonate
Specifications Met ASTM D2000, SAE AS568, SAE J200
Temperature Range -30° to 225° F
Color Black
RoHS RoHS 3 (2015/863/EU) Compliant
REACH REACH (EC 1907/2006) (06/25/2020, 209 SVHC) Compliant
DFARS Specialty Metals COTS-Exempt
Country of Origin People's Republic of China
Softer than standard Buna-N O-rings for a better seal in low-pressure applications, these are also resilient and offer excellent tear resistance. They resist hydraulic oils and motor oil. These O-rings have a round profile and are suitable for a wide range of static and dynamic sealing applications.

Inch O-rings have a dash number and are sized to the SAE standard AS568.

Jetfuel

09-02-2020, 12:10 PM

Hold your horses Art...I have many -224 series O rings that we can send to him..
I'll check the fit on my cap and see if a -223 or -225 gives a better seal

what you say Frank...can you wait a little?

jet

Frank818

09-05-2020, 12:23 PM

Did 4 runs this week and only this morning it did not leak. Maybe cuz I start to get under 50% full tank.

This is how it looks when it leaks:

134728

See that puddle at the bottom of the opening? And also once I open the cap it leaks on the wrap you can see a little bit towards the center right. No wonder why it flung on the rear fender twice in my previous runs.

I think the best solution to that is a better o-ring and it seems you guys already have millions of those? loll

And - tighten that little pin retainer set screw or someday the pin will fall out and the cap won't lock.

Art, it seems to be a pressure-fitted pin, I'll look again tonight. The pin seemed to be holding pretty fine when I played with it but we never know, always good to quadruple check, yes!

Frank, update, I couldn't leave you stranded. Turns out I determined what to buy and use, not junk box. McMasterCarr item. I bought the minimum 15 pack and must have used some in other things already, I have 7. You want one from me PM your address and I'll get it out. N/C for a pal in need. Art

PS, it fits good, but can get a bit tight, I put just a bit of grease (not silicone) to help.

2418T179
...
Inch O-rings have a dash number and are sized to the SAE standard AS568.

That helps! I tried measuring the o-ring but it's so easy to be off by 0.5-1mm! And more so if that ring is American and not metric.

Hold your horses Art...I have many -224 series O rings that we can send to him..
I'll check the fit on my cap and see if a -223 or -225 gives a better seal

what you say Frank...can you wait a little?

Absolutely I can, at the moment what I try to do is be careful when I lock the cap, making sure I press on the ring until the cap is locked and then I pull the little twist handle while pushing the cap in, making as best as I can a seal. Sometimes work, sometimes not, but so far it prevented flinging on the fender and smelling while driving. The fuel (which is not Jet fuel lolll) most of the time makes a puddle at the bottom so it is at the limit of that o-ring seal.

Art, I'll see what Jet comes up with with -223 and -225 sizes. The best fit I can get the better for long term use.
And Jet, I already owe you one. :)

Art, if you know more than I do on this, what's that thing about having pressure in the fuel tank? I thought there was no pressure in there or even vacuum cuz the pump sucks fuel which in turn sucks air from nowhere since it's a closed circuit, or maybe from my carbon canister. There must be air going in there when fuel gets out of the tank, but I would have never never never thought there would be a high positive pressure in the circuit? And what causes it so that fuel would back up my 5/8 vent hose like that?

Fortunately there seems to be an easy fix, tnx to you guys! Still very curious to understand how pressure works in this fuel circuit.

Frank818

09-05-2020, 12:34 PM

This week I tried as much as -2.5 camber in the back.

134729

Gives a pretty nice look!
But it seems to increase my rubberized, muffled vibration coming from the left rear in higher G right turns only. This morning I dropped to -0.3 camber and it was softer with less vibration, but still some. I'll check if my axle nut is tight, we never know. Next step would be to drive with my mech and let him feel and hear it.
I do not know which parts of the car/suspension take on some stress when you corner, so very hard to know where and what to look for.

I start to have more and more trouble preventing myself from pushing on that gas pedal. :) But I never go over 50% TPS and 3500rpm not cuz I now about the 50% but I stop at what I feel, that 50% TPS is already considered agressive driving in town, I cannot imagine full boost and 6000rpm. :)
Car is quick, very quick, my timing makes it very responsive now.

Metallic exhaust vibration, fuel cap leak, left rear vibration on right turns and coolant double-leaks and still I can have fun driving it. That too I cannot imagine once all those will be fixed.
The 818 is one hell of a special car!

So far the rest of the car seems to hold on pretty good!

450km to go and I can remove that RPM limit during engine break-in.

aquillen

09-06-2020, 10:00 AM

Pressure in the fuel tank - a temporary thing. Subaru (and I suspect many/most other "newer" cars). A typical system would be much like Subaru, which I have a drawing made for...

https://res.cloudinary.com/aq007/image/upload/v1599403431/QE818-3.0_plumbing_-_Fuel_Vapor_Emissions_otgi1a.jpg

During "steady state" highway cruising, the ECM does a lot of system tests and will report via check engine or whatever indicator, when it finds a fault. One group of tests looks for fuel system leaks. There are fast and slow leak search methods that use variations of the following (a fast leak test is simpler):

Measure fuel temperature. From this calculate the vapor pressure for typical gasoline at that temperature (seach this to see curves and details: gasoline vapor pressure vs temperature). Also have on hand a curve of the evaporation rate for gasoline at that temperature (this is not the same as the ultimate vapor pressure the fuel would achieve). Measure fuel tank level, tank must be between 1/3 and 2/3 full to continue so that sufficient empty space can be used to monitor expected pressure increase during the test.

ECM BEGINS TEST:

Running steady state between a predetermined speed for x amount of time, engine warmed up, battery voltage within spec, etc.

Start with tank vented to atmosphere, by opening pressure solenoid and drain valve then measure and verify that tank pressure is at atmospheric pressure. This would normally be vented through the charcoal canister and/or via the purge vacuum back to the intake manifold.

Close tank vent pathways (pressure control solenoid).

Fuel evaporation proceeds in the tank as it already was doing, and based on fuel temperature it increases tank pressure to a known value for gasoline at that temp. So pressure builds in a good tank at a specific rate based on known volume of space above fuel (tank size and current fuel level), etc.

Monitor for the pressure rise for a predetermined amount of time, likely determined by the fuel level, since empty volume will affect how fast pressure should rise.

At tend of time, is pressure within expected range? yes - good. no - issue fault code.

Fuel cap loose? Probably a big leak, so pressure will not increase much, if at all. Major problem with getting pressure to rise = issue major leak fault code vs minor leak fault code, etc.

Frank818

09-06-2020, 04:45 PM

OMG Art! I am prehistoric compared to your diagram!

All I've got is:

- The tank
- Charcoal canister vented to atmosphere and a breather filter (NOT connected to intake manif)
- 5/8 hose vent from tank to top of filler neck
- Fuel pump
- Fuel level sender (FFR's)

End.
No solenoid, no sensors, no ECM link, no drain, no pressure sensor.
Am I screwed?

But I do understand now the pressure buildup! By "pressure" I was thinking of the way pressure rises in the fuel rail, it is 100% liquid fuel pushed by the pump, so obviously pressure rises. I was wondering how that could happen from within the tank.
But I totally forgot about pressure rising due to a change in temperature which causes evap gases to increase pressure! This happens in any fuel can (say a 5gal can) so it must happen in a fuel tank being hit by a lot of heat coming from the engine sitting 8 inches behind!
Then when gas (not liquid!) pressure rises, it follows the less restrictive path to escape, which is probably my 5/8 vent as the filler neck has fuel in it up to a certain level anyway. All the gases escape from that vent located right on top of the tank. This also explains why my hose smells fuel. I have used a HEATER hose for the vent, cuz I said to myself "I don't need a FUEL hose, it's only AIR going in that vent". Well no, the gases flow through it along with liquid fuel obviously, or it turns back to liquid when it reaches the top of the filler neck on the colder brass fitting and aluminum fuel cap.

ALL MAKES SENSE! I need to change my vent hose too, already part of my plans but now it's mandatory!

This morning I did 2 runs. Both made me dizzy, cuz fuel was spilling out the cap and smell was coming back into the cabin. The fuel cap is located a couple of inches behind your head! The simple fact of turning your head to the left and I could smell unburnt fuel.

Although I don't recall anyone writing about this issue, everyone using FFR's fuel cap should test it for leak or change the o-ring and find one that fits in very tight, to make sure.

Frank818

09-06-2020, 05:08 PM

-2.5 rear camber rubs on the inside of my inner wells. So I settled with -1.0 camber. This is already too much for certain types of roads around here. We have many highway stretches where trucks dug into the tarmac where their wheels are rolling. These make the car tram line a lot, even with good alignment. I found out the higher the camber the more it tram lines, both front and rear. Since I've got -1.2 front I decided to leave it at -1.0 rear, it's a good compromise "tram line vs sharp handling".

I finally was able to experiment fuel starvation! On a green light downtown, took it in 2nd at low RPM, maybe 2500, sharp turn, very quick, that was a test, without slowing down at all, maybe around 25mph or so. Engine got lean, fluttered for about 2sec, but no other symptoms. My guess it is was fuel starvation. I could not even see that moment on my log file, I'm surprised. 1/4 of tank maybe.
But 10mins prior, I was at 65mph in a tight "S" off-ramp. It's an amazing few seconds stretch of off-ramp to drive onto, no matter the car. I did not have any starvation issue, maybe the G forces were less or not as violent as on that green light right turn.

Frank818

09-07-2020, 03:45 PM

http://youtu.be/odUpguy104Y

Check out first few secs how close the front splitter is to the tarmac. I think I still had a good quarter to half an inch though, sun shade is tricking our eyes, I believe.

Damn I love that sound on acceleration!!

Frank818

09-12-2020, 05:57 PM

Well, from the outside you can tell it roars!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lshuyClCi-k

lance corsi

09-12-2020, 06:32 PM

Frank, your car has a good sound! Wish I was driving mine.

Ajzride

09-12-2020, 09:11 PM

Frank, aren’t you bored of driving your car yet?

Frank818

09-12-2020, 09:29 PM

Frank, your car has a good sound! Wish I was driving mine.

Lance! What's up with your C? You started in 2015 if I recall... where are you at now?

Frank, aren’t you bored of driving your car yet?

Yes I am. Not revving over 3500 due to break-in period and juggling with 7 issues (2 oil leaks, 2 coolant leaks, 1 rear left wheel vibration, 1 exhaust vibration and 1 one fuel cap leak) is quite boring!
But that's normal, cuz I built it. :)

Frank818

09-13-2020, 05:40 PM

How interesting!

135021

Frank818

09-15-2020, 05:48 PM

Art, Jet, I think I have fixed my fuel cap leak issue.

I got lucky and found some o-rings around, took a chance on 43mmIDx4mm and it fits. I think it's as thick an o-ring as you can use there, cuz the cap doesn't fit flush anymore, but barely!

135090

Good news is the spring works harder to compress the o-ring and I didn't smell any kind of fuel smell on my 30mins drive. That does not mean it's working, I need another 2-3 rides like this and I'll know.
The o-ring is also softer than OEM FFR, it is 70A. Maybe FFR's got harder with time I don't know.

aquillen

09-15-2020, 07:50 PM

choobs

09-28-2020, 07:10 PM

Wow, real happy to see this car out on the road Frank! And that is what an 818 should sound like, vr6 bliss :)

Frank818

10-03-2020, 01:55 PM

I suppose the only thing that you could run into still is it gets tight on you after being in place for several days. If so a touch of grease probably would fix (not silicone grease - messes up 02 sensors, etc.)

Funny, many forums tell me using silicone or lithium based grease is compatible with fuel. However they don't say anything about O2 sensors, but do you mean some of the grease would get in the tank, sucked up by the pump and sprayed in by the injectors then burnt fuel to the O2 sensor in my down pipe?

Wow, real happy to see this car out on the road Frank! And that is what an 818 should sound like, vr6 bliss :)

Yeah and I tell ya it sounds monstrous when the rpms increase! But that will have to wait for many reasons which I will post in the next posts...

Frank818

10-03-2020, 01:59 PM

Hey guys,

A lot of efforts in the past weeks.

ENGINE TUNING

Tuning seems fine, there are always small adjustments cuz everything is impacted by everything else, so it requires a lot of iterations but it runs fine and I use closed loop to control small variations, I was able to tune closed loop so that helped. I am now in the process of setting up pops and cracks at high vacuum. Not sure I will have a video before next year.
Believe it or not but cold starts perform better than hot starts, cuz I very rarely crank the engine when already hot, so I could not have a lot of opportunities gathering data and testing settings. But it starts all the time, always within 2secs, engine never stalls and I can control everything as intended with my ECU.

This is fixed well enough, even though it'll remain an on-going process for another season at least.

FUEL CAP LEAK

It seems the o-ring I found works good enough. I think once every 3 rides if I stick my nose, literally, on the cap, I can smell a little bit o' fuel, but no leak. However I know if I ever go at the gas station I NEED a towel or scott towel so that immediately when I open the cap I absorb the fuel puddle piled up at the bottom of the inside of the cap before it pours. If I don't, it will leak right away on the fender. Trust me I have tried in my garage and I swore bad for 5mins. Small drawback I can live with. One day I'll look to stick a rubber flap inside the cap.

I fixed this issue.

OTHER LEAKS

3 coolant leaks and 8 (EIGHT!) oil leaks. So far 1 coolant leak fixed and nothing else I could, either I cannot find the exact source of the leaks or I require removing the head to have better access down, especially on top of my filter housing which is leaking in 2 or 3 places.
One leak is on the clutch fork, I suspect the piston seal of the slave is shut and leaks through the rubber down to the metal tip pushing the fork. It's a Carrera 4 slave.

Failed fixing these this season.

135883

Frank818

10-03-2020, 02:02 PM

WHEEL VIBRATION

Don't know. Next test is to push the lower lateral links outwards, pushing the wheel outside, and re-aligning. I think I have an idea what it is: compressed CV joints from the distance between the hub and gearbox. I think the entire drive shaft uses its shortest length to fit and maybe on high Gs it pushes on the shaft which cannot compress the CVs anymore. This adjustment can be tried next Spring.

I failed on fixing it this season.

EXHAUST METAL VIBRATION

After performing many tests, I cannot find the cause. :( That killed me. I think it's related to my dump tube flex bellow which has a hanging tubing inside the flex. That tubing touches the edges if you shake the flex, or flex it. On the video you can hear it clinging when I hit the muffler. That happens when cold, but not hot. Curiously the noise while driving happens only when hot and not cold. Anyway I fixed the noise on the video but it did not fix when driving.

Since this is an area with very high exhaust gases, you cannot perform quickie tests! I need to delete the WG and block off the manifold WG hole. I have to fab a block off plate 1st.
I did disconnect the dump tube and block it off, for that I had to flip upside down the WG and pray it won't open while driving. But since I had to bolt an alu plate in sandwich between 2 flanges, the top one is VERY close to the WG, I could not secure the flex, so the flex was still flexing and the noise was similar as when it's connected to the WG.
On the other hand, it may cost less time if I buy a different design flex, cut the actual one and pay a pro SS welder to come home weld it in place, this winter. But I am not 100% sure it will solve the issue since I cannot identify what causes that damn noise!

I failed on this very very important one this season.

http://youtu.be/eAjcvpxgDsQ (https://youtu.be/eAjcvpxgDsQ)

135884135885135886

Frank818

10-03-2020, 02:04 PM

15PSI BOOST REACHED!

Engine break-in restrictions being a thing of the past, I was able to test higher RPMs and boost. At only 65% TPS it can easily reach 15psi at 3750-3800rpm. At WOT, I am expecting 25psi around 3000 or under. At 4000rpm under load, the engine is loud, at first I thought everything was about to explode. But after a few times I realized the engine seems to take it very nicely. I even tried to destabilize the engine by boosting 15psi at 4000 and then quickly shifting back to 2000 steady. No hiccups, no overheat, AFRs came back to 14.7 in an instant, all was smooth. Basically it was like a normal car. The back push I feel when rpms increase is definitely more than I was used to on the Corrado at WOT. So that was impressive. I never went over 4000rpm yet, cuz of what's below.

NO BOOST CONTROL - SKY IS THE LIMIT

However, for some reason I am yet able to explain, my boost controller or WG is not working. The WG never never never opened since I got it out of the Corrado in 2015. The dump tube has no carbon dust inside (meaning the gases from the main pipe don't flow back in the tube which is important to know!) and even though I am asking my boost controller to open the WG at UNDER 8psi, the boost keeps on creeping and never reaches a plateau. Which means no WOT on this car until this is fixed. Maybe I'll have to ditch my boost controller and implement a new one, would have to do it this winter cuz I need access through the center tunnel, I don't want to waste hours removing and reinstalling seats and under seats next Summer!

Yes I have dismantled the WG which was making a noise anyway. I played with the shaft by hand and it was sliding no problem so it's not stuck in there.

http://youtu.be/aEgJK1Zhz3w

I don't have a lot of days left for testing cuz I cannot drive for months with my blown head gasket, destroyed water pump, 3 coolant leaks and 8 oil leaks including clutch slave.

So cuz of all that I am very very busy trying to identify my issues promptly so I can take proper decisions before the winter and fix all that before next season.

I honestly don't think I will make it and next season will also be another one difficult with restrictions.

lance corsi

10-03-2020, 03:09 PM

Frank, you might try applying some anhydrous lanolin to your o-ring for lubricant. Other than that, there’s the barium based o-ring lube sold thru McMaster Carr.
As far as my car progress, it has slowed this summer because of me hurting my back. Again. So I’m getting started back now, but it’s hard to get that groove back. Each time I set a finish date goal, I never reach it, so on it goes. Also, I see more details that need attention as I go, which seem to consume massive amounts of time. Working unassisted is fine but there are those times when a second set of hands are necessary, so I sometimes defer to other tasks until I can get help. My lifting capacity is down to 20 lbs or less, so I must be patient. I’ll finish some day. Your thread has been inspirational for me, so I thank you for your addition.

Frank818

10-04-2020, 02:57 PM

Tnx Lance, I've taken notes of those products, should I ever need them.
I think the key is to keep the o-ring soft. It does not prevent the puddle from forming above the o-ring, but at least the ring stays tight.

Lifting only 20lbs is not a lot on such a build! :( Not an easy stretch, man, definitely not an easy stretch of project life... what % completed you think you're at?

Frank818

10-04-2020, 03:31 PM

Done!

I am done for this year. This morning was my last ride of the year and I have already started the "Repair Season" by taking apart 75% of the parts I need to remove for the winter repairs. I figured with my head gasket, water pump and that slave leak, there is no point driving any longer this year since there is nothing more I can test or tune until I have a better working car. Also it will give me almost 2 months more to work on the car, which lowers pressure and provides better time flexibility. Wise decision and I absolutely don't regret it.

This last ride was great cuz for a very rare moment I was able to fix something quickly. My boost controller.

Turns out the required settings on my Corrado and now 818 are totally different! I suspect the SUPER MASSIVELY restricting exhaust on my Corrado required very high settings on the controller and since on the 818 things flow without restriction, those settings need to be dialed down quite a lot.

Normally I use manual settings on the controller, but this time I used the automated setting. I set a desired boost (in bars), a proportional gain (yes, that thing uses PID control) and a limiter (never really understood what that does) and the automated settings learns how to reach the setpoint as fast as possible, while following the gain I set (allowed overboost) and keeping a flat pressure all the way up in rpms.

Turns out on my very first boost it worked awesome! Yes, I do have a video for you guys!

http://youtu.be/IBJgQXNSek0

The test was done on the exact same location I previously did my boost tests, starting at the very same rpms in 3rd, at a similar outside temp and engine temp and at the EXACT same TPS (65%). I am a pretty consistent guy when it comes to testing.

I have asked 8.7psi and the controller reached 8.7 psi without overboosting (I set a low gain so it doesn't overshoot) and KEPT 8.7psi give or take 0.4psi overall fluctuation (+/-0.2psi), which is ridiculously stable! Of course that was just for about 600rpm, but it couldn't be better and I reproduced that 4 times. With time the controller learns how to reach that setpoint faster, but time I don't have for that this year. At least I know it works! And it works superb!! I WILL have fun playing with that next year.

Oh god, just realized I reached 100km/h in a 50km/h zone, that is just enough to get my license suspended here. Sorry, cops! It was just a test!

Once I boost 25psi and I floor it at WOT, that thing will be a monster. So far I believe the engine loves better 15psi than 9psi. Not surprising since I run 7.7CR.

Anyway, that ride cheered me up just enough so that I will not be too disappointed this winter fixing my issues. It gave me hope for next year. I will burn the time and efforts to fix what I need to fix, I think the car prove to me it deserves it.

Frank818

10-04-2020, 03:33 PM

I have another video for you guys. Playing with ECU settings to generate cracks and pops, I go very slowly on the settings so it's not that noticeable yet, but it's a start.

http://youtu.be/OUTrX4U2zrA

Also I find out I am not the only one who had fuel cap leaks issues! That proud American pick-up is leaking! loolllll

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lance corsi

10-04-2020, 06:50 PM

Frank, I’d estimate that I’m 75% finished. Quitting isn’t an option. I hope this winter allows me to double down on it. My business has been booming for the past 2 years, so I must keep up with that too. Sometimes I feel a bit overwhelmed with all the mechanisms in my life. It’s non-stop 24/7 mechanical stuff for me.

Frank818

10-05-2020, 06:09 PM

75% is quite respectable! Plus your business is having great times even through the pandemic. Just those 2 things should cover the understandable disappointment of still being in the build process, although not much can shadow back pain, damn that thing must suck. :(

Frank818

10-06-2020, 07:08 PM

I need to remove the gearbox! (most of the oil has been removed from these pictures already)

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The slave is not leaking, it's a seal inside the gearbox, damn it. There goes a lot more efforts and hours and I need to bring it to my mech for repair. Basically everything will be off the car, cuz of the high steel welded supports in the back of the gearbox, I need to lift the engine block 8, maybe 10 inches. That requires disconnecting everything around. My problem is I only got one hoist and I don't think I can jack the block that high from underneath.

Gearbox is still 160lbs wet, I can lift it up but I cannot manipulate it and move around much, so I need the hoist in order to slide off the long bolts on the block side but it needs rear clearance first.

Well I have to see something positive in there! This will allow me to look at the drive shafts and ensure nothing is wearing out of the ordinary. It will allow my mech to look at the gearbox and ensure nothing else is bad in there. And it will give me more space around to install my head gasket and water pump.

But still...

Jetfuel

10-06-2020, 07:51 PM

I know this sucks....but .... you got this

Jet

AZPete

10-07-2020, 10:36 AM

Jetfuel is right - you got this. You've learned so much in your long journey that this will not be tough for Frank818.v2020. Rent a second engine lift?

aquillen

10-07-2020, 12:39 PM

You need physical exercise on a regular basis, go for it!

Frank818

10-11-2020, 11:19 AM

Jetfuel is right - you got this. You've learned so much in your long journey that this will not be tough for Frank818.v2020. Rent a second engine lift?

I got updated to Frank818.v2021 on Oct 3rd. :)
Seems my jack works fine to lift the engine, very precise and smooth. What's difficult is that the engine sits tilted on the driver's side, as a VR6 sits tilted to the front in transverse form. So when I lift, it tilts a bit more and that causes the gearbox to slide to the left and I loose all my clearance to get it out. If the alignment of the gearbox is not perfect and I really mean perfect, it cannot slide off, neither back in! I once spent 2h last year trying to slide it in and that was with the engine OUT of the car. The first time I tried took (only) 15mins. So it's very easy to misalign that thing.

Since I got only 2 hands, it's hard to move the gearbox while lifting it with the hoist or lifting the engine, so I have to attach it in a way it won't mess at all its balance, which is impossible to know until it slides off and you then see where it wants to balance... therefore I gotta be super creative and guess. As always. :) Normally it's getting out tomorrow!

I am very pissed at this oil leak, cuz I drove only 1600km since its rebuilt, I never went over 4100rpm, less than 10 times, and my average RPM is probably less than 2000. So I hope that failing seal was just a lemon and that the new one will never fail. I do not want to take the gearbox out ever again.

On the other hand, that made me found something! Don't tell anyone, this is between you and me :), but one of my 2 engine mounts' nut was LOOSE. I think it had almost no torque to it!

Hush... :)

You need physical exercise on a regular basis, go for it!

Actually I do exercise 2 to 4h a day in summer and 1.5h a day in winter. :) 5-6 days a week all year long. Working on the car is a beneficial add-on to that and sometimes very much exercising! Like yesterday when I needed to lift with one hand the wheels of my hoist in order to push in with the other hand the locking pins (I have foldable lower long legs). That required great strength on the legs and back, keeping a perfect posture so that I don't hurt my back. Poor Lance I cannot imagine with his back pain doing this. :( I could not use my car jack as it was lifting the engine.

Regarding my high Gs right turn deep frame vibration coming from the left rear wheel, so far my assumption was right: my left driveshaft CV is compressed to its maximum when installed. Normally you have 1in of play on the inner CV, extending and compressing the entire shaft length by about 1in. In this case it's at its shortest. I still believe on right turns the forces on the wheel might want to push just a little the shaft inwards towards the gearbox and without play it bottoms inside the CV. Couple of ideas to test this next year.

Frank818

10-11-2020, 06:04 PM

I lied!
I just got the gearbox out tonight. When I wrote my post this afternoon it got me thinking about how to attach the chain and strap to balance the box. I knew I wouldn't sleep if I wouldn't give it a try tonight. I did and I got it out on the 1st try, or 1st re-try should I say.

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Clearance really is to the mm!! A lot of sweat, but I think most of it was from the fear of breaking something!

That freakin' bolt is about 2mm too long!!!

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It causes the box to jam on the frame at the rear and I couldn't really raise the engine more, would cause more jamming on other parts at the top.
Thank god those long bolts flex a lot, I had to jiggle.

I learned that it would be much better if I get the left driveshaft out. That should give me clearance to take into account this long starter bolt.

There is a lot of oil everywhere inside!

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It comes from the gearbox' shaft sleeve guide, drips on the shaft, then on the clutch release bearing and then inside the clutch and the crank gear!
I hope I won't need to remove the clutch.

BUT, that explains the small oil leak I was getting right at the bottom of the adapter plate! I thought it was engine oil but couldn't find any leak! Now everything is self-explanatory...

I don't understand why it leaks. What a surprised, it got rebuilt and it leaks already. I cannot afford removing the engine, head or gearbox every year while driving like a 120yo guy for the summer cuz I don't want to get things worse. That is not funny at all.

And what is that thing:

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Couldn't find any wear on the clutch side or flywheel or starter ring gear, so I guess it's fine! We'll see what my mech says about that.

On the + side, it's gonna be a lot easier to get the head off and back in! And we are just at mid-October, which means plenty of time until April to fix everything else. So I'll stay calm and continue filling up with pink hibiscus gin...

Frank818

10-17-2020, 11:28 AM

Didn't happen often during this 6.5years build I was happy about something.

Turns out my friend fixed the gearbox oil leak in only 48h elapsed! That kind of job would be more like 2 to 6 weeks elapsed as since I am lucky to be his friend I don't pay the same rate so he does my stuff when he has time, unless it's urgent. In this case I was expecting to get the box back during the winter!! I was not prepared, I had to move things around in the garage to make space for the box while all bolts and parts are spread everywhere. But there is no way I will complain!

Happy also that my major issues have found causes and fixes!

GEARBOX OIL LEAK

My fault!! I put too much oil 1800km ago, maybe half a quart too many! This increased pressure and popped 2 or 3 seals!

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You can see oil went all the way to the crank splines. And inside the clutch it was dripping down on the adaptor plate and also flinging off while rotating. The blue stuff you see through the holes is my floor tile. That explains the drip I was having around the adaptor plate and obviously the huge oil leak through the shaft and down the release fork.

FIXED!

WATER PUMP

No my fault! I guess I got a lemon part or just that the AWESOMELY looking Schimmel Performance (from PA in USA) high flow pump was badly designed. It's made in USA how can it be badly designed? It's the one on the left of course. He doesn't sell that pump anymore so I had to buy a std OEM pump although with a metal impeller, not the plastic OEM version. Those pumps are super cheap, thank god. Hopefully it will flow sufficiently, I'm sad to throw away the high flow pump, but it failed, so...

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FIXED!

DEEP VIBRATION ON RIGHT TURNS

My fault!!! I removed the CV cap from the left driveshaft in order to test my theory about the fact the rod is too long and bottoms out on high G right turns. Quite unusual thinking, you'd say? Well I was right!
Expecting to have some differences when you get a custom driveshaft built from measures taking from on your phone camera, hey...

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On the left pic you CLEARLY see the round marks right in the center.
On the right pic you see the right cap looks to have a slightly bigger or rounder center bowl. That is where the rod was pushing and bent the thin aluminum.

Multiple fixes to that:

- Pushing the wheel outwards using the 2 lower lateral links and adjusting with the camber link and maybe a little with the bumpsteer link. Free.
- Sending the rod back to DSS in SC or NC so they can cut it half an inch and send it back. Maybe 50-100US + shipping twice.
- Buying a new rod from DSS the correct length. 500US + shipping once.

As of now of course I will try pushing the wheel and see if it fixes 100%. If I feel the wheel is not too much on the outside and that doesn't cause any collateral damage (rubbing on fenders, flinging off gravel or etc.), I will keep it that way and push the right wheel outside as well, so both rear wheels are simetrical.

FIXED!!

HEAD GASKET BLOWN UP

My fault!! That we knew. I am in the process of removing the head, we know the fix to that.

FIXED!!

EXHAUST VIBRATION

My fault!!! Yes, that one is also my fault. The exact cause isn't known, but there is definitely something wrong with the WG flex bellow. It has almost no flex in the direction the engine moves and when the flex hits its maximum flexing point, metal parts inside touch and it makes a CLING sooooo similar to the one I hear while driving. The flex on the other direction is fine with lots of flexing angle and no noise.

Multiple fixes to that:

- Changing the bellow for another design. Not yet, the solid inner liner I have now is the best to be used on WG dump tube. Replacing with a double braid liner is so-so, some say the inner liner will fail, burn out or collapse, some others say it's fine if the quality is there. I checked for the interlock inner liner and they don't recommend for turbos.
- Changing the bellow for same design but a new part. I believe very much the installation and welding was not done properly. I think we fitted the 1.5" tubing at a slight angle inside the bellow (it's a slip-on bellow, slides over the pipe), which would be the problem. Also I think it's possible during welding the metal changed shape and is now very close to the side of the bellow which prevents it from flexing and causes the noise. Replacing with a new one I would know how to do it right. But I need a SS welder and I am having problems finding one that would come in my garage and weld on the car. Stupid QC with only 8 million people and businesses not advertising themselves on the web...
- This one is really out of the box, check this out guys: Cutting my dump tube in the middle, flipping it 180-deg so that the side it flexes fine would be in the direction the engine moves, bolting the flange/bellow to the WG, approaching the rest of the pipe underneath, leaving a cut say 1/8 or 1/4in, sliding in an interlock tubing https://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1527_1070_1248 over the 2 sections of the pipe and clamping the sections with 2 U-bolts. I already have the interlock tube, only need 2 U-bolts.

That will work and remove all stress on the bellow (I have some now cuz it's not perfectly aligned and the stress is on the wrong flexing side!), what I don't know is if it will make noise in a different use case cuz the non-flex side will be flipped. Maybe it will make noise differently. But it's almost free, quick to perform and totally worth trying.

From there I'll judge what to do next. If it works fine I could drive like that for a long time, as long as it wouldn't leak.

ALMOST FIXED!

All the above issues will be worked on and ready for testing I'd say in 2 to 3 weeks. The car will not be back up in 3 weeks though, but those major parts will be worked on completely.
From there, curiously, I only have minor issues to fix or improvements, nothing that would prevent driving the car, but I still want to do this winter so it's even better next summer. I am WAY ahead of time in my planning for this Repair Season. Which is also why I am happy. At the moment.

Frank818

05-24-2021, 05:20 PM

Oh boy time flies fast. :(

I guess this will be my last update categorized as a "build update".

Next few posts will be split into various subjects so you can read only what you want.

I never knew what criteria would allow me to say if the build is completed or not. Until I knew it was completed. Everything build related is done, running and wearing out normally. That is when I knew the build was completed.
I do have a very few things to improve or implement in the future, but I don’t consider that part of the “build”.

As much as I can and once I get a proper cam I will post videos driving. Probably not this year, I have other concerns first.

Frank818

05-24-2021, 05:22 PM

As for the head gasket coolant leak, I cleaned everything, applied with more quality the gasket sealant, used a NEW head gasket and torqued head, all that within 40mins, which is great enough within time for everything NOT to leak. On 2nd run of the season at beginning of April, it started to leak. At the exact same locations than last year and the year before! How possible?

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The sealant you see on the pix was added after the leak and I am still adding some after EVERY ride or 2. LOTS of maintenance for very little joy.

We suspect either a warped head (how on Earth could that happen since it was not leaking before July 2019 when I bent a valve and I never ever pushed it) or micro-cracks in the head. That means yes I have to remove it for the 5th time in 3 years. I don't plan on removing it this season, I am exhausted of all those fixes that are always the same, so it'll wait for the winter, except if I get exhausted of 4-5h maintenance every 30-60mins of running time.
To remove that maintenance time, I plan on using a rag after every ride and mop up the head/gasket/block. One leak is behind the alternator and its bracket, this one is untouchable, it requires a lot of parts removal to uninstall and gain access. I think I will let the coolant leak drop along the block, pan and on the underbelly alu cover for the season, if I can take it. I have no mental strength to fix this before the winter but maybe I'll get too frustrated of cleaning and seeing it drop on the alu cover.

On the aspect of oil filter housing leak, this one started at the very end of last season. I didn't have time to fix last winter cuz the fittings installation is very problematic to remove, so I called it a day. And now I pay for that poor installation design. I have to drive the car with a rag wrapped around the sensors and turbo oil feed line fitting on top of my filter housing.

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After 30mins ride, the rag is about 30-40% covered with oil. The good thing so far is that it absorbs all of it. Crossing fingers this absorption will last for the season. I will need many rags and replace them after 2 to 4 rides or so.

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My mech thinks it leaks only during warmup when parts have not expanded yet. No way to tell and simply thinking won't fix it so I'll live the year with it. But this one requires no part removal so it's not as bad as the head gasket.

If the above 2 can stop getting any bigger, I can expect to have short rides this year, with minimal fun, yet again. But still ride and try to push it above 4500, which I have reached only twice in 4 years.

Frank818

05-24-2021, 05:24 PM

- Rear wheel vibration on tight right turns. It was indeed my driveshaft which is just too long and rubbing on the inner CV cup. I spun the 2 lower lateral links 1 turn pushing the wheel outside, following precise marks in order not to mess up the alignment, re-cambered to -1.5 and voilà, any corner I take at any speed is as smooth as a magnetic train and I am not kidding this car is a FREAKIN' BLAST to drive in curves! It loves those million times more than boring straights.

- Exhaust vibration! The famous son of a B...!
It was indeed the dump pipe flex below as I had expected. Literally 2secs before cutting the pipe and using a complex setup to test that possibility, I found out that by orienting the flange differently (further away so I have to stretch the "accordion" which helps reducing the inner tube from hitting the inner walls. By hand at least.

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Don't mind the welds, they have been re-welded in 2017.

So I decided to bolt it in place with a slight tilt on the downpipe and test it before I proceed with a no rollback solution that could cause other issues. And it worked! 95%, though. There is still 1-2 situations where I can still hear the vibration but it's really faint and I think even my mechanic would not know. I know cuz I know the exact frequency and how it sounds, but anyone hearing the car would probably not, thinking it's part of the "mechanical noises" the engine makes. So I will keep it like this for this year. A total difference to drive the car without that noise!

Too bad my head gasket leak. :(

- Gearbox leak.
Fixed, there was too much oil in it.

Frank818

05-24-2021, 05:24 PM

I know cops can be hesitant in Quebec sometimes when they see something that doesn't exist. The 818 is not a replica so in cops' minds it's unknown. I always was afraid one day I'd get pulled over for some reason just to ensure I am legal. It took over 1600km but it finally happened, but not the pull over thing. loll I was followed on my rear left and later directly on my left by a cop for about 5mins, some of it standing still on a long traffic light. I'm sure he punched in my plate to check. Fortunately he didn't do anything.

Frank818

05-24-2021, 05:25 PM

Finally! I was able to make the car slide (or spin. It was slide in this case). Tires were COLD. On a roundabout. Not sure how fast I was going, it wasn't that fast but tires were cold. All 4 lost traction, 4 at the same time, only 2 fronts, only 2 rears, it was very very very controllable. Extremely neutral, something I never experienced with my Corrado. Also the car was not rolling AT ALL, which is why it took me by surprise when I felt the tires sliding. It was very little, but enough to know that some grip was lost. Pretty cool actually.

Second time was right after the apex in a curve. 3rd gear, 70-80km/h, I decided to push it more. But not flooring in a snap! Gradually pressing the pedal. When I felt more boost coming in I also felt the rear sliding just a little. A very small s/w correction was required. If you're turbo, never floor in a curve, bad bad bad bad loll

Frank818

05-24-2021, 05:27 PM

On the front wheel wells I fitted some thin yoga matts in order to manage the small rocks that were piling up and on top of the race splitter. Also in order to reduce the noise of those small rocks chipping the alu panels.

It worked beautifully! It’s a 3mm matt.

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I tested a solution to reduce exhaust smell in the cockpit. Following on Harley’s idea of fitting a full plastic glass around the rollbar, I thought maybe half a glass, up to the humps’ height, could still deliver some performance. I cut a cardboard piece, slid it between the humps and rollbar and tested it. It did help. Hard to tell how much and I need more tests. Also a bit less wind and swirls inside the cockpit, so I liked that solution.

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Some had concerns that Harley’s full glass could reflect other cars’ headlights at night, but a half glass like this does not matter much.

Adam, after a while not pushing the engine it started to smell more. And when I pushing it, it was smelling even more. But after 2-3 passes of higher boost and mid-range RPMs, it cleared! It smells much less now even when cruising. Funny...

Frank818

05-24-2021, 05:28 PM

SURPRISE! :) I have a set of NEW (only a few kms on them) 275lbs rear FFR/Koni springs that I am giving away for FREE, shipping included (lower 48s and all across Canada).

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First one to PM me gets them! :)

Once there's a winner I'll mention here that they are gone.

Canadian818

06-20-2021, 08:53 AM

I tested a solution to reduce exhaust smell in the cockpit. Following on Harley’s idea of fitting a full plastic glass around the rollbar, I thought maybe half a glass, up to the humps’ height, could still deliver some performance. I cut a cardboard piece, slid it between the humps and rollbar and tested it. It did help. Hard to tell how much and I need more tests. Also a bit less wind and swirls inside the cockpit, so I liked that solution.

148436

Some had concerns that Harley’s full glass could reflect other cars’ headlights at night, but a half glass like this does not matter much.

Adam, after a while not pushing the engine it started to smell more. And when I pushing it, it was smelling even more. But after 2-3 passes of higher boost and mid-range RPMs, it cleared! It smells much less now even when cruising. Funny...

This is exactly what I was going to try, just a half glass bolted to the engine cover. Was sure if it’d be enough or if I’d have to come up a little higher then the humps.

Frank818

06-20-2021, 07:21 PM

The higher the better most probably of course, but we are trying to find a good compromise. I have yet retested this thing, as I am currently slowly increasing boost at every ride (now reaching 19psi, it whistles like a monster :)) and tuning fuel and timing, amongst other things.

I think a half-moon glass that would start a little higher than the humps, then go higher in the middle and slowly curve downwards to the far edge of the other hump could be pretty good.

But Adam you have to floor it too. I keep flooring it now (curiously nothing breaks loll) and the smell is really not as bad as it was when I was driving at low rpms. Even when flooring it doesn't smell that much. Maybe if you run quite rich all the time it's different, though. You gotta have proper plugs too. Anyway I hope to retest the cardboard later this Summer.

DSR-3

06-22-2021, 07:14 PM

I have a full shield and still can smell exhaust, seems more in coast-down situations. There's also the glass fibers from new mufflers to be found mostly on the dash as a reminder not to breathe too much... More masks!!
Also worth checking- do you have the inners sides by shoulders well closed off? I was getting exhaust from there too early on.

Frank818

06-22-2021, 07:36 PM

You're right, in the end no matter what we do unless we have a fully enclosed cockpit it will still smell to some extent.
Those little areas can leak, yes, the inner shoulders I think are not that bad for me, but I think I do get some coming in from the middle hole of the rear FW at the junction of the console. That's where the handbrake and cables and wires are running over the tank. I only got a piece of carpet to cover that hole. For now.

That smell thing is probably a lost battle, but small victories can be won here and there to make the loss not as great as it would be. lolll

Jetfuel

06-22-2021, 11:21 PM

I have a full tinted Lexan in front of the roll bar, yes the reflection of incoming cars and even the red stop lights of the car in front can be seen in it, after a while you learn where to look and it is not an issue.
Maybe because of the lower center exhaust is why I can’t smell any fumes in traffic or wide open

Jet

Frank818

06-23-2021, 07:46 PM

You have pix of that on your build thread? If yes I'll go take a look.

Frank818

06-23-2021, 07:53 PM

For the past few weeks now I am watching videos of guys building American V8s. I never thought the market for American aftermarket and OEM parts what that HUMONGOUS!! You can basically configure any V8 block into a bunch of setups! Rollers, rods, cams, pistons, stroker cranks, heads, headers, superchargers, carburetors, EFIs, etc... Incredible. You guys got them all.

That got me wanting to build an American V8. For which I have no car to fit it into and no space for the car. lolll I do hope I can spend my time learning on American V8s when I retire in 10-15years. I need a barn. loll

What would be the State that is the most iconic or the most pro-pure American V8 builders?

Ajzride

06-23-2021, 08:06 PM

You need a F9.

Jetfuel

06-23-2021, 08:21 PM

149824

149825

Here you go Frank
Placed in front of roll bar with a 5/16x1/8 foam seal between them.
The bottom edge is held in place with a U channel

Frank818

06-23-2021, 08:36 PM

You need a F9.

Thought of that, I'd prefer to fit it in the rear, though. And that's the GTM, or SLC or some others alike.
I have to stop watching those V8 builds videos. loll

149824

149825

Here you go Frank
Placed in front of roll bar with a 5/16x1/8 foam seal between them.
The bottom edge is held in place with a U channel

That vinyl all around looks totally OEM. Gives us a better idea how a full glass would look like... following a perfect implementation like yours of course.
Have you tried driving without it to see if there are some kinds of smell?

Ajzride

06-23-2021, 08:48 PM

I think the 818 has cured me of the mid-engine fever. Ergonomics suck and everything is more challenging mechanically because of splitting things between front and back and the front of the engine being up against the firewall.

FFRWRX

06-24-2021, 08:45 AM

Frank,

I haven't read in detail all that you've tried with respect to your coolant leak, but have you tried a rad seal chemical in it? If not, and before everyone jumps on me for suggesting that, a little story.

I had a new '94 Mustang that burned coolant after I had it for several months. It lost about a quart of coolant every couple months. It didn't leak and didn't smoke, but I could smell it now and then. I took it back to the dealer several times and they did compression checks, hot and cold cooling system checks, and never found any issue. A friend of mine said that he had heard of that with Fords now and then and it was due to poor machining of the heads. So I asked him if he thought I should get the heads removed and cleaned up. He said "$400 for that work........$4 for a bottle of sealant.....which one to try?". So I put a bottle of sealant in it. Problem solved. I had to add a bottle every other year when I could smell the coolant burning, but I had the car for 12 years and there was no further issues with it. So, long story for a short suggestion.

Rick

Dave 53

06-24-2021, 01:21 PM

FFRWRX

06-24-2021, 02:27 PM

I don't get any exhaust smell. Could it be because I have a catalytic converter?

Yes. Some people (like myself) put them on to reduce the exhaust smell, even if they don't need it for emissions.

Jetfuel

06-24-2021, 06:53 PM

Frank, I did drive it without the divider, there was little smell but, in traffic with a little tail wind the heat coming out of the hump vents was the defining factor for the divider
And that's no vinyl my friend...that's Spinneybeck Sassolino leather, it's there to cover the metal frame that holds the hard top....lol

Jet

Dave 53

06-26-2021, 12:29 AM

Yes. Some people (like myself) put them on to reduce the exhaust smell, even if they don't need it for emissions.

Driving my car makes me sleepy. It's not the burger I ate for lunch or the hot California sun beating down on me or the drone of the motor on the highway. Now I think it's the exhaust fumes I can't smell.

DSR-3

06-26-2021, 10:50 AM

Driving my car makes me sleepy. It's not the burger I ate for lunch or the hot California sun beating down on me or the drone of the motor on the highway. Now I think it's the exhaust fumes I can't smell.

I was going to blame your special tune, or driving like and old lady, but maybe it's the burger...

Frank818

06-29-2021, 08:13 PM

Frank,
I haven't read in detail all that you've tried with respect to your coolant leak, but have you tried a rad seal chemical in it? If not, and before everyone jumps on me for suggesting that, a little story.

No I haven't tried that at all. Not sure how well it would work on a leak that travels all around one complete side of the engine. But if it seals between the block and gasket and gasket and head, then it could theoretically work. The pressure is certainly higher in that area. I did some research and apparently this can be used for head gasket leaks https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UJ4WS0?linkId=741976bedc1b830aa9c54adf05ff06ca
BUT apparently it requires pure water to work, not coolant. I guess I can let it seal and then flush water and put back coolant without sealant.

On the other hand if my head is really warped I wouldn't want to use a sealant, I would prefer to fix the head for good. If the head and the block are both straight, that's another story. I'm keeping that liquid glass sealant on my list.

And that's no vinyl my friend...that's Spinneybeck Sassolino leather, it's there to cover the metal frame that holds the hard top....lol

Oh pardon me! lolll We are not joking at all with that leather. :)

Frank818

08-15-2021, 08:56 PM

Some measurements in inches (I got asked for a few times already) for people trying to fit something different than Subie H4/H6:

Longitudinal VR6 turbo total width at the top 27
VR6 height with oil pan 29 (or about 2" taller than the top of FW)
VR6 length crank bolt to block edge 19.5
Adapter plate 0.665
Lateral links supports width 25
VR6 transverse engine+6sp 02A width 35
Bell housing to inner CV 7-8
Distance between top of FW (big frame tubing) to lateral crossbar (bolted at each top of the suspension) 22

Overall gearbox+engine with clearance and space for shifting 50.5 (or 48.5?)

Ideally you want your total length crank bolt or accessories to inner CV to be 23-24 (I am too long by 4, but it still works without problems, although this is considered "extreme configuration" and you should do all you can to avoid this).

Frank818

09-11-2021, 08:23 PM

I am excited I do have major updates and it looks very very promising for next Spring.

I was finally able to make the wheels spin. While driving with my friend Porsche mech I was getting out of an industrial front yard, left turn. We were troubleshooting my so called exhaust rattle. I wanted to launch faster so while I was turning and launching I gave it a LITTLE more gas than usual to launch at higher rpm. The car immediately took a 100-110deg or so slide, the tires never squealed (maybe tnx to those great compounds). My friend made a big smile while I was totally caught by surprise. This car grips as hell but once you reach its limits it takes off. The slide was SUPER easy to control smoothly, that is another great success of the 818 and the VR6 is a superb platform to fit it in the 818, at least for street driving. I can elaborate on that in another post if you want to discuss it.

HEAD GASKET COOLANT LEAK

Well, there was no such thing!! I never had a coolant leak. After taking the head out again (5th time since June 2019), we analyzed the head and block. Everything is straight, the pistons are in excellent condition, the cylinder walls are in excellent condition, the cams, lifters, cam gears, cam bearings and valves are also in excellent condition with nothing abnormal anywhere. There is also absolutely no sign of any kind of leak on the head gasket (but not the block). Hell, I've got a perfectly healthy engine!

What was leaking was the stupid Permatex 99MA spray on gasket sealer.

153269

It is red and mimics perfectly coolant, especially when heated up and going into liquid state. I've got thick deep blood red leaks and coolant-like pink color leaks. After analyzing, both are from that damn sealant, it's easy to prove (I can explain why/how if asked). Also the leaks stopped later during the summer, it does leak a tiny bit again but the block heat dries it before it drips down.
Why was it leaking for me but never for my mech? Probably I don't apply it properly or don't shake the can enough... anywho I called it crap and bought Permatex 101MA spray-a-copper-gasket and this one is a LOT easier to apply. Will know next Spring!

153270

EXHAUST RATTLE

Well, there was no such thing!! It's internal to the engine and the very most probable cause are my timing chains. When this happened in 2019:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=109723&d=1561763159

I checked the chain, measured, etc... all seemed fine. But that's not how you make sure the chain is fine!! Dumb, back then I was, as Yoda would say. Only way is to take it out and compare with a new one and even that, sometimes there could be a slight issue with it and you would not see. Never play with that, always replace it, as he told me back then https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12179-Frank818-1993-VW-VR6-Turbo-donor-Build-Thread&p=373153&viewfull=1#post373153

Now everything is removed from the engine (except internals) and I am changing the chains. While I'm there I'll look at the intermediate shaft bearings, just in case. I also found some rubbing from the clutch fork onto the pressure plate so I'll take care of that as well.

Will know next Spring if it was the chain or not... honestly there is nothing else we could try as we played with every other part in the engine bay (except clutch area and intermediate shaft...). I even replaced all my v-band clamps.

LOW IDLE OIL PRESSURE

Well, there was no such thing!! I found a video of a guy fitting a 950hp VR6 12v in his old Audi S4 and he's showing his cluster while revving up to 5krpm. Anywhere past 2k my readings are the same as his, give or take a few psi.
My theory, which I can explain longer if one wants, is that since both sensors are tapping on the turbo oil feed line this causes incorrect readings at low rpms. I have fixed now and they tap from my OEM low and high pressure switches, so the oil has nowhere to go other than to sensors.
Other possibility is the oil pressure one-way valve my mech fitted on the block. There is a bead that closes at engine shut off so the oil doesn't drain from the head. It's critical on the VR6 12v to keep the lifters well oiled all the time and prevent dry starts. Maybe that valve slightly closes under 2krpm due to the lower pressure going up and it causes the pressure to drop even more....
Either way, will know next Spring!

BTW, hard to beat the sound of the legendary VR6 12v. Take a listen from 15m50s to 16m20s:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N_Aur8MIJQQ

This is the S4's friend, he fitted his 900-1000hp 50psi VR in an Audi B5 platform...

While I'm there I will take care of tires rubbing on the outside and inside of the rear splash guards. Happens only on full droop but the inside portion rubs on the cut edge of the alu sheet close to the springs and I don't like that, could cut something on the tire in the long run.

There are 3 ways to learn:
1- You go to school (with or without a mask)
2- You watch Tubes
3- You make improper decisions and get hit by them

3rd one got my experience level bump up quite a lot in the past 2 years!

There never were issues with my engine. There always were issues with me!

...

I so wish we would be in Spring already.
Are we there yet? Are we there yet? Are we there yet? Are we there yet?

Frank818

11-07-2021, 08:11 PM

No way!

Just came back from a long way. After 2 months of hard labor work stripping down to the bare short block with no moving external parts I somehow managed to put everything back in and go out for a drive on Oct 29th before the snow! Thanks to Trump's "non-existent" climate changes, I am still driving as I write this.

I have fixed all my issues, except the metallic rattle. I knew that when I saw the timing chains weren't stretched. So over 500h and 2.5years looking for the cause of that and back to square 1.

This is my new oil filter housing solution, which fixed my damn oil leak. I went crazy and put sealant on the top of the threads!!

155773

However the car drives differently now. It drives better, although my fueling got messed up, which means there really was something off on the chain timing. I also somehow pulled some kind of magic trick so that all LGWs (Leaks Gone Wild) are gone. YES, I HAVE NO DAMN LEAKS! That is a first since 2011 back in the Corrado. Crossing fingers I don't have slow oil leaks but so far everything is bone dry after 4 heat cycles. What a weird feeling for me.

This means now I can finally for the 1st time drive the car ANYTIME I want, ANYWHERE I want and ANY NB OF TIMES per day I want without having to replace the band-aid around the oil feed line every 3 engine starts in order to prevent it from dripping oil all over and without the need to check for head gasket leaks after every engine start. No more firewall removal to patch the head gasket with sealant after every 5-6 engine starts.

Speaking of head gasket, Permatex spray-a-copper gasket Spec #101MA is AWESOME! You have all your time to install the gasket and torque the head down, as long as it's tacky, which is at least 24h after your last coat is applied. I will always use this product in the future, now I love reinstalling the head (although I do NOT want to do it again lolll).

155763

You have no idea how big of a weight just dropped off of my shoulders. I can now focus on that one last issue that even a 45-years expert mechanic has no damn clue about.
...
Or I could just live with it. Now that the car can be driven, I realized this car is not meant for steady 2000-2500rpm runs (duuuuuuhhhh loll), it's meant to be driven HARD. That's the whole point! And when I do it, I can get rid of 95% of the rattle. So from now on, I should always launch with aggressive manners and rev the engine up, shift gears as if it was dog engagement, step on it, lift throttle and listen to those LOUD bangs and pops which are much more present since the chain timing fix.

Yeah the sound is slightly different now that I have perfectly timed the engine. It's smoother, more linear and better, more growl to it. Steady 3000+ sounds MEAN! :D @Brian, you gotta come back for a drive!
I also noticed more torque, but that could be cuz it was -1C (30F) outside and frankly if you are well dressed and using gloves, once the engine warms up it's quite comfortable! Just cold on the fingers after a while. I'm impressed, who knew a full roadster without HVAC could still be comfortable at such low temps. I think with winter gloves I could drive as low as -10C (14F), but that's bad on tire compound anyway.

I had fun driving the car that Friday morning at 6h15am in the dark. 1st time I have that much fun with no weight on my shoulders and no fear of anything going wrong.

During those 2 months I managed to improve a few other things. Including at least 2 totally unexpected.
- I increased oil pressure all across the band by 5 to 30%!! While not using heavy-duty oil stabilizer that I used to use to thicken the oil. I have no idea how I pulled that one off as I didn't do anything to the oiling system. :confused:
- Then my warm start ups are much better, whereas before they were unstable. I didn't change my ECU tuning on that so it must have something to do with the timing chain properly timed.

And visually speaking, I did this, OH YEAH:

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This winter I will improve a few more things, like preventing the tires from rubbing on the inner wheel wells:

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BTW if you need a trick to unbolt bolts that make parts turnover, just do this:

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Ajzride

11-07-2021, 08:33 PM

Awesome report Frank!!

fletch

11-08-2021, 04:23 PM

I would love to stop in for another ride, Frank. Wish you were in my neighborhood, or vice versa. Congrats on all this hard-won success.

Frank818

08-04-2022, 01:24 PM

Well I have nothing bad to report! :D

Car is driving strong and is reliable, providing I properly clamp my vacuum hoses. loll

I also have a very solid theory regarding the metallic rattle, which my friend on his 911 also has (rattle)! How funny! The theory so far has proven to beat anyone's argument against it. It is not fully fixable unless I redesign engine internals (it has nothing to do with the exhaust). However there is a workaround, at a cost (torque under vacuum), but it's ok! So the rattle is now no more than 20% what it used to be and no one but me can hear it in rare occasions. Even Brian wouldn't hear it! So yes, now I can cruise at 3k rpm downtown with a great sounding engine! :D

I have plans for car upgrades, now that I can have fun driving it I can see where I can go with this car (in terms of upgrades)!

I get asked about the car on average once every time I drive it. Unbelievable. Sometimes people talk to me at 50km/h (they roll down their window, I don't need to do that lol).

So that's it! That's my build, the blue VR6 Turbo build.

Unless I get some important information in the future that may interest people on the forum (like an FFR part unusually wearing out fast or something like that) I don't plan on adding more details on my build, it's complete.
It will of course be my pleasure to reply to anyone's questions, feel free to ask or PM me if I don't reply within a week! I only get email notifications for the 1st post after mine.

I would like to THANK A MILLION TIMES each and every one of you who helped and supported me. Many of you supported me through the severe down moments I had during the build and your strong words really helped me keep it up and I got out of the water and now it drives! From time to time while I work on the car or drive it, I remember those times where you guys supported me. Every little detail you helped about made a huge difference in the end. I have a lot of respect for you guys!
Thanks, thanks and thanks!!