Frank818 -1993 VW VR6 Turbo donor- Build Thread

[wleehendrick]

Not recommended but I have a lot more weight in the back, so relatively my front is too light and needs more downforce than the rear compared to the proportions FFR designed it for

Frank, be careful with that line of thinking; it's a dynamic issue. If you adjust the suspension's mechanical grip to be relatively neutral you will still get loose at higher speeds as the race splitter creates more front downforce with nothing to balance it in the rear. I'm no expert in this field, but in general, the best handling cars are those that are neutral to a little loose mechanically (slight over-steer at slow speeds where aero isn't a factor) and generate more down force in the rear than front as the speed increases.

What you don't want is the opposite, a car that pushes at low speed and gets looser the faster you go, which you may be creating. As an example, when the 1st Audi TT came out it had no spoiler, a dramatic retro bodystyle, and like an Audi, it's prone to mechanical understeer. After a few fatal high speed spins on the Autobahn, caused by the car's handling getting very loose at high speed, due to aero rear end lift, Audi recalled it and added a spoiler (as well as suspension tuning and ESP). The engineers predicted the aero issue, but were overruled by the designers who initially refused to add a spoiler because it ruined the retro look.

[Frank818]

Damn you're absolutely right!

Good news is I've got the World's easiest fix lying in front of me: cutting my race splitter to transform it into a street version, in 15mins, at no cost. :)
I'll test it carefully on the track first.

[Frank818]

Steve, are you ready? I got pix of my body install from the rear bumper up to the front of the side sails. The front end of the car is currently protected against gel coat and fiberglass dust so can't take pix yet.

On the following posts I will also expose some cooling solutions and Quebec regulations solutions.




This is for my NACA ducts. Mainly for looks but some air will enter and also cuz my filter is right in there, need a big opening.

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Craig's humps louvers. Will have a 7" fan running under the right one, perfectly just above the turbo, mainly part of my after shutdown cooling system, so that it will push hot hot hot air out when I shutdown the engine, for 5mins.

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One of my 2 NACA ducts on the under engine belly pan. The other one is not installed yet and location not cut. Obviously, the belly pan fits the other way around, I have it upside down for the photo.

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My first rear splash guard. Not completed cuz I need to cut to clear the brake line and maybe a little for the upper link. As of now both rear ones are done.

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[Frank818]

My rear bumper openings for VRaptor's 2 grills.

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Used 3M 8115 epoxy for the inserts on the headlight buckets. Those are the ones I had to get out. This is when I 1st epoxied them.

59225



Now the Steve part.

Read deck lid supports. Don't mind the bolts, I may use different styles, but I will use 1/4-20.

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Rear of side sails on shock tower brace. Used 2 holes per side.

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Front of engine cover supports. I use Quick Latches on all my covers. Surprisingly, this alu is very stiff as it is like that. The angle is intentional, cuz the latches fit at an angle on the cover.

59228



The holes for the side of the side sails. I wonder if one hole less would have been better, I feel there's too many. Those are 10-32.

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2x 10-32 holes at the top front of the side sails.

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3x 10-32 holes for the bottom rear of the front fenders. There is some force in that area, especially on that side, so I wanted 3 holes, not 2 like FFR does.

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My scoops. With a sharp triangle edge at the front. I will use Kurk's scoops.

59231



WTF is that? Yeah, another NACA duct. There is air in that area although it may not be that much efficient. It's mostly for looks cuz that bottom part of the side sail will be black and I will have the inner side of the duct blue.

59232

[Frank818]

Top of this pic is the back of the car, this is the tube at the bottom on the right side. 1/4-20 will be used to keep the side sail in place with Allstar's countersunk black bolts/washers kit that Tony also uses and maybe Chad on his old R. I will use those in many places under the car, diffuser, side sails, belly pan...

https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL18633-Countersunk-Washer/dp/B009Q73H8A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1475364109&sr=8-2&keywords=allstar+countersunk

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Right side of the pic is the front of the car, the top tube on the pic is the same tube on the pic above. Again same fasteners.

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4 holes to attach the side sails to the bumper. Take a guess.... Yup, 1/4-20s!

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Under the bumper. Top of the pic is the rear of the car. 1/4-20s again, the diffuser uses the same 4 holes. The 2 holes without a bolt on each sides are the FFR holes for transit. I could not reuse them.

59237


End of Steve part for now.

[Frank818]

Time to respect regulations!

59238

The fit is 98% perfect!!!!!! Curvature almost perfect, a couple of hours on gel coat and I could probably fix it, although I am unsure I will do it. Now the hard part will be to secure these markers in place! It was also quite long to fit like this, a lot of careful and precise sanding on the edges and along the lines until the marker fit in and stopped at a very tiny edge all around the lense. 4h.

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The result when lit up is pretty good too. I believe this is one of the mods I did I am the most proud of. The look of those markers is just perfect with the look of the car. Can anyone guess what car they are from? :)

5924259243

[Frank818]

What have you guys done with your old nose style Craig fender louvers? The top of the new nose fenders is different than the old one so the louvers don't fit at the same place and look a bit different. Is it ok like that or should I fit them super close to the headlights? Or should Craig fab some louvers for the new nose?

59244

[RM1SepEx]

You have it backwards, lip it around so the wider part is in the front...

[Frank818]

You have it backwards, lip it around so the wider part is in the front...

Ha that would make better sense! Tnx a lot!

[Canadian818]

Wow Frank, that all looks great! I might have to copy you on the side sail naca ducts, they look great. And those front marker lights are slick! Good work! As for the louver, could you turn it around 180 degrees? Or more like 160 degrees?

[Frank818]

Tnx man!
Adam, you never work now? lolll It's cool you're on the forum everyday to update your thread or others, much better than a few months before.

The rear side markers are a ****ing challenge man... More on that in a couple of weeks.

Uh flipping 160-deg, you mean horizontally? I was thinking of flipping vertically 180-deg, the widest section up front with the straight edge along the top edge of the fender. But you mean the widest section up front with the angled edge alongside the top edge of the fender?
I'll try both tomorrow and will take pix. I guess in the end it's however anyone feels it looks good, those are kit cars anyway. lolll

[Frank818]

Hey Mr Rotary, do you need side markers, front and/or rear, in AB?

[Canadian818]

Mr Rotary eh? I believe I at least need rear side markers, I'm not sure if there's anything built into the headlights or not.

[mikeb75]

Frank, very nice work on the body!

[Frank818]

The work wasn't as nice for the rear side markers. There are many limitations with FFR's bumper, it's super short and has a wide curvature with almost no straight section. That's bad for side markers unless you know exactly which ones to get. I think I'm the first again on that.


This is the difference between FFR's front markers and mine. Which are from which car again? :)
I don't like the too bright yellow color of FFR's. Also the look is neutral on the car. But, they are ****ING easy to install, I could do it in less than 30mins per marker, compared to 4-6h for my markers. + I have to spend another 5-6h designing brackets allowing to remove the markers from the OUTSIDE. That's a pain to design. Hey I just got an idea!! lolll

59280


Ok so which one's the best for the louvers?

1
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2
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3
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4
59284

I think #3.


Rear side markers. FFR isn't providing any. Extremely challenging. I thought of using 97 Honda CRV's and fit them in the triangle at the top of the bumper but that would be quite high compared to my front and the style is completely different. I couldn't know the size either so maybe they wouldn't fit well, risky.
Well with these it's that the damn bumper is curved everywhere. I found the flattest spot and used it. Couldn't keep the marker level to the ground, so I decided to follow the line of the bumper to side sail seam, at least it's following something but it doesn't look very good.
I admit on picture it's worse. And on white it's even worse. Once the bottom of the bumper will be black, the rest blue, the marker will look a bit better. Oh well, I spent hours and hours and hours looking for DOT/SAE approved markers that would look good on the car and still fit, gotta live with compromises. At least it fits 95% flush!

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[Hindsight]

For the louvers, I like all the way forward or all the way rear, personally.

[AZPete]

I vote for #3 position of the louvers.

[Frank818]

Do we know if there is a lower pressure just behind the headlights compared to close to the windshield? The louvers would probably work best where the pressure is the lowest above the fender.

I'll try to review FFR's wind tunnel video, hopefully I can find it.

Damn that was easy http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10986-818-Wind-Tunnel-Photos-and-Video-Clips&highlight=wind+tunnel
But it doesn't show much on the fenders.

[Frank818]

I've asked Chad to see if he'd locate them at the same place if he had to do it again.

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[Frank818]

Just found a way to reduce weight on the 818.

http://www.topgear.com/car-news/video/video-spontaneous-weight-reduction-174mph



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWt40Z9lSDk

[svanlare]

Been off racing for the weekend, and you posted quite a bit to catch up on this morning. Thanks for the great shots, that is extremely helpful!

I like the ducts that you have added, putting air exactly where you want it. The front markers lights look very good, the rear look like a complete pain to fit something in there.

As for front louvers, I like the first shot.

[Frank818]

Do you need more shots of those areas?
Or the next ones you're waiting for are front end shots?

Tell me about it on the rear markers. I really hope I'm right that with the 2-color wrap it'll look better. But regulation is respected, so that's done. For this side of the car...

[svanlare]

I still have to get my engine bay finished before I move onto the body, but the photo's all look VERY helpful. Thank you. I'm using the original nose on the car, so I'll have some different challenges there.

It looks like very wide pan head screws that you are using on the bottom. Something like this? mcmaster/Extra-Large Diameter Head Machine Screws with Internal Hex (http://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-screws/=14ftucs)

What did you do under the car on the side sills? I just have one held on with clamps and it seems the edge extends in past the rail and the rivnuts would end up in the floor pan vs. the side rails unless you put the holes well inbound of the edge.

[Frank818]

It looks like very wide pan head screws that you are using on the bottom. Something like this? mcmaster/Extra-Large Diameter Head Machine Screws with Internal Hex (http://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-screws/=14ftucs)

Well I will use large washers (either the Allstar or large fender washers) for everything on the body, apart maybe from a few exceptions where I don't want the washers to be seen, like the shock tower brace. The screws you see on the pix are all FFR's at the moment cuz nothing is secured yet and I don't bolt very tight until I get the car out.



What did you do under the car on the side sills? I just have one held on with clamps and it seems the edge extends in past the rail and the rivnuts would end up in the floor pan vs. the side rails unless you put the holes well inbound of the edge.

1/4-20s with Allstar or fender washers on the rail so yes not on the edge of the sail but more inbound to meet the rail. It's actually a tricky part, cuz I also have my underfloor alu panel bolted to that same rail and because I use many 10-32s, I didn't want to use them all for the sail. I'm not sure yet if I will squeeze the sail on those bolts' heads and use some rubber protection or drill holes to let the heads through. This last one means it's just like if I were using them to bolt the sail into place, I have to think about it.


About the Cooper side markers, the Fiat 500's are nicer, the problem with these is they fit on a flat fender lip. The 818 doesn't have any, it's too curvy. The Fiat 500's were my 1st choice hands down but when I tried to picture how bad they would fit on a curvy lip, I dump them. :( They would also have been at an up angle which I'm not sure regulation would let me do it. I'm not even 100% confident on my rear marker cuz it's angled rearwards.



So no one guesses my side markers, eh... couple of hints: it's from a legendary car near everyone in the US, I believe most people respect the car and it's engine maybe even more and Hennessey does its magic to it.

[Hindsight]

Disco-vette

If I ever raced a vette, I'd totally wear this:
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[Frank818]

Nice helmet and nice guess too, but although the vette matches perfectly all the hints I gave, it ain't it.
Ok the car was gone for a few decades and came back recently.

[flynntuna]

You'll need a racing suit to complete the ensemble...

[Frank818]

Some updates on the Eagle Eyes to replace the FFR lights. Anyone using them should read this.


https://www.amazon.com/Everbright-8-Pack-Switchback-Daytime-Running/dp/B00X5NI9HU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475665941&sr=8-1&keywords=everbright+eagle+eye

Since they don't have a switchback driver, if you want the switchback feature you have to do something. Finding a control box alone that switches the positive side led me nowhere.
Using a relay is freakin crap! Cuz when the turn signal is on, between the flashes the white chips would turn on, obviously. Therefore is flashes yellow, white, yellow, white, yellow... crap! There is no time delay control in a simple relay. Doh!

So what I'm thinking now is buying as crap parts these things:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/45cm-1x-Car-Flexible-Tube-LED-Strip-DRL-Light-Switchback-Headlight-White-Useful-/172345164406?hash=item2820928276:g:gxkAAOSw65FXqU4 i&vxp=mtr

They have an integrated switchback driver, I have 2 pieces of 85cm to use elsewhere and they work perfect. Since it's cheap I can cut the wires off of the driver and connect it to the Eagle Eyes.

The only thing is that those wires are the smallest possible in a car (even my electrical alligator clips can hardly pinch them) and since the Eagle Eyes are 9w each, I highly doubt one switchback driver is sufficient for 4 Eagle Eyes (36w). So I have to buy 8 of those tubes... 28 bucks.

Or I could unsold the wires on the driver circuit and sold back on bigger ones to use 1 driver per side for 4 lights. I already checked, it's feasible. What I don't know is the total capacity of a driver... doh again! So I will buy 8 tubes. Besides the advantages are that I can't make a mistake while soldering back wires on and most of it they come with a plug, so I don't need to make my own plug.


Another proof this is a kit car. :) But it's fun to find solutions that work! So proud afterwards, eh...

[Mechie3]

What's the issue exactly? You're using eagle eyes that are white and yellow? I'm using eagle eyes that are white OR yellow and they work fine (ie, just replaced what FFR has, 3 white and 1 yellow per headlight).

[Frank818]

Well, both. loll

I have white OR yellow but if I connect both wires (1x 12v+ for white and 1x 12v+ for yellow, they use common ground) to 12v+, they get white AND yellow when the turn signal flashes, cuz there is no switchback driver included.

[Mechie3]

Are you using an iwire harness? I guess I don't know what a switchback driver is.

[Canadian818]

Are you using an iwire harness? I guess I don't know what a switchback driver is.

So I'm not the only one confused, lol.

[Frank818]

Nope, I'm using Frank818's harness. However my harness ECUs (not engine ECU) and many wires are from InfinityBox (like Redfogo) and yes I could do it without a driver, relay or anything, with just 2 wires and programming the InfinityBox cell. The problem is I need 1 more output wire that is not in use right now and I have to ask the guys in Chicago to change the code. When there's a code change I need to update it with a hardware they sell and accept return for (15% stocking fees). I already did that once when I changed all my stuff to match my devices and rules. I'd need to do it again for the Eagle Eyes if I want to.

The result for that solution is I have no unused output left. I'd have to buy a complete 10-output cell (515 bucks), have the code changed (free), buy the code uploader hdw (330 bucks), find space for the added cell, wire up, etc. and get a 85% refund back on the uploader I'd ship back. Cost: 515 + 85% of 330 + shippping say 30 + taxes 125 = 720 bucks. I think I can find cheaper ways. :) I'd rather invest 720 in a Boyd/Craig fuel tank. :)

Even if I'd knew 2 years ago about those Eagle Eyes, I wouldn't be able to use my harness cuz I need the outputs where they are now and I'd still be missing 1.
It'll work fine with the drivers I'll cut off of those tube lights. These drivers should support 1amp minimum, the Eagle Eyes are 750mA each, at 12v when engine not running.

[Frank818]

The switchback driver is used to control power to the lights based off a time delay and turn signal trigger.

Mainly when you power the white DRLs, all is good. Then when the turn signal's signal is sent to the driver, it shuts off power on the white leds and intermittently give it to the yellows, but encapsulated within a time frame, meaning while keeping the white leds off. In other words once the turn signal's signal is received, it shuts off the white leds for a period of time. Even if you just ON-OFF quickly the turn signal, the driver will wait 1-2sec before giving back the power to the white leds. That's cuz the turn signals are intermittent and not constant power.

I need that time delay for capturing a 2nd signal and keeping the white leds off between the 2 signals.

[Mechie3]

Ohhhhh...You're trying to do what Audi does. DRL are on but switch off when the blinker is going vs just leaving them on while the blinker is on. Right?

[Frank818]

Yeah absolutely!

The tubes work perfect, but the Eagle Eyes aren't meant for that although they all sell them as "switchbacks".

It's now not just Audi but many others do that too. Many also shut off the low beam of the headlight, I'm not going to go that far, though.

[STiPWRD]

Frank, why not just use a relay? It just seems way simpler. I bought the same switch back LEDs btw.
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[Frank818]

Not sure what your diagram does. Those are diodes?
What happens when the blinker is off? Does the relay immediately (in milliseconds) switches back to the DRLs? If yes then it will also flash the DRLs in between the yellows.

[STiPWRD]

Yes, those are diodes (as in light emitting diodes - LED). When the blinker is off, the DRL 12V power lights up the white LEDs (resting position of the relay), when the blinker is switched on, it energizes the relay to divert that DRL voltage to power the yellow LEDs. The switchback is immediate.

[Frank818]

Sorry I meant if they were diodes like 1N4001 and others or those that revert current, etc.

Cuz you need something for the time delay here. A plain simple 5-pin relay without a delay feature will work very odd. I tried it and when the blinker LIGHT is off, but the Subaru blinker arm is still ON, the DRLs turn on and blink when the blinkers don't and vice versa, cuz the power to the blinker lights is off, but it's not really off cuz your arm lever is still on. The relay switches power based on the current received for the blinker light, which is not the same as from your steering column arm lever.

Maybe I should take a video? :)

[STiPWRD]

Yea, I think a video would be helpful. I'm having trouble following the explanation about the blinker arm and the steering column lever. Either way I'd like to figure this out as well since I'm using the same LEDs. Are you saying the power to the DRLs is intermittent? I'm working under the assumption that they receive constant power and the relay approach simply diverts that power when the blinker lights receive a voltage.

[Frank818]

Precisely, the DRLs are intermittent, at the opposite moment of the blinkers.

I'll be capable of shooting the vid tomorrow night.

In the meantime here's a short time sequential explanation.

DRL = white DRL LEDs
SIG = amber turn signal LEDs
GLO = Global result of the entire 23mm globe whether either LED (white or amber) or both are on or off

When you drive with DRLs on and no blinker it's like this (don't mind the dashes (-), it's just to keep stuff in line to read easier):

Seq 001-002-003-004-005
DRL ON--ON--ON--ON-ON
SIG OFF-OFF-OFF-OFF-OFF
GLO ON--ON--ON--ON-ON

When you decide to turn or change lane and trigger the blinkers by raising or lowering the steering column blinker arm lever, you normally want this:

Seq 001-002-003-004-005
DRL OFF-OFF-OFF-OFF-OFF
SIG ON--OFF-ON--OFF-ON
GLO ON--OFF-ON-OFF-ON

But with Eagle's and simple 5-pin relay without a time controller, you get this:

Seq 001-002-003-004-005
DRL OFF-ON-OFF-ON--OFF
SIG ON--OFF-ON--OFF-ON
GLO ON--ON--ON--ON-ON

[svanlare]

What is the GLO signal? I assumed the lights had two power leads (one for white and one for amber) and a common ground wire. Is there a 4th wire?

Anyways, couldn't you cheat and not use a timer by using the input to the infinity box system from the blinker to turn off the DRL light (letting the infinity box control the blinker as expected by toggling the +12 to the signal). Something like this? I drew the LEDs as a light in this picture.

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[aquillen]

Late model Camaro markers. Sweet job by the way.

Wondering if any of the side markers can be heat reshaped to fit the rear curve. Anyone ever try that?

[Frank818]

What is the GLO signal? I assumed the lights had two power leads (one for white and one for amber) and a common ground wire. Is there a 4th wire?

Anyways, couldn't you cheat and not use a timer by using the input to the infinity box system from the blinker to turn off the DRL light (letting the infinity box control the blinker as expected by toggling the +12 to the signal). Something like this? I drew the LEDs as a light in this picture.

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Excellent diagram Steve! It will work as long as the turn signal switch's signal out of the column is constant. I don't know how Subaru generates the intermittent signal out of it. I could have checked, that's true. In the end it cost me less than 20 bucks for 8 drivers. Because my wiring is all done, because I'd like to keep the car relay free and because the drivers had an intergrated less than 10mm connector plug, I jumped on it.

But for most people I think your diagram is the perfect one. If the signal is constant out of the column.

The GLO line is the entire 23mm socket, whether there is at least one of the 2 (white and/or yellow) led turned on or off, it would then write on or off. Off when white and yellow are off and on when either or both are on.

[Frank818]

Late model Camaro markers. Sweet job by the way.

Wondering if any of the side markers can be heat reshaped to fit the rear curve. Anyone ever try that?

Very very close. :)

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I thought of that, to reshape the markers. Maybe. I know the grey plastic behind the lense can be shaped cuz the OEM bulbs already shaped a concave "O" in the plastic, due to heat. That's a small design flaw to me, not sure if after a long time it could melt a hole through. I changed the bulbs for LEDs, of course.

As for the lenses themselves, I don't know if a heat gun can reshape and how the plastic will turn out, but it's not impossible. They are pricey so I didn't want to try.

[STiPWRD]

Precisely, the DRLs are intermittent, at the opposite moment of the blinkers.

I'll be capable of shooting the vid tomorrow night.

In the meantime here's a short time sequential explanation.

DRL = white DRL LEDs
SIG = amber turn signal LEDs
GLO = Global result of the entire 23mm globe whether either LED (white or amber) or both are on or off

When you drive with DRLs on and no blinker it's like this (don't mind the dashes (-), it's just to keep stuff in line to read easier):

Seq 001-002-003-004-005
DRL ON--ON--ON--ON-ON
SIG OFF-OFF-OFF-OFF-OFF
GLO ON--ON--ON--ON-ON

When you decide to turn or change lane and trigger the blinkers by raising or lowering the steering column blinker arm lever, you normally want this:

Seq 001-002-003-004-005
DRL OFF-OFF-OFF-OFF-OFF
SIG ON--OFF-ON--OFF-ON
GLO ON--OFF-ON-OFF-ON

But with Eagle's and simple 5-pin relay without a time controller, you get this:

Seq 001-002-003-004-005
DRL OFF-ON-OFF-ON--OFF
SIG ON--OFF-ON--OFF-ON
GLO ON--ON--ON--ON-ON
Now I see what you mean, you want to turn the DRLs completely off throughout the duration of each blinker on-off sequence. I also didn't know you wanted to keep the car relay free. Now things make more sense. I guess I don't necessarily mind having the white LEDs on when the amber ones are not flashing (during a blinker sequence).

[Frank818]

Correct, yes. And I'm not even sure it's legal here to flash DRLs or low beams. I know the regulation is tricky regarding any flashing red, blue and white lights, anything too close to imitate a cop is not legal. 15 years ago I got pulled over cuz I had purple 5watts parking lights in my Corrado's headlights, that gives you an idea. The cop told me blue (although they were purple, could fight in court for that) lights on a car are not legal. I really don't want to take the chance here with flashing DRLs.

But for those who don't mind if they flash, than a plain relay is fine. Or you mind and a relay doesn't mind or you don't mind reworking your wiring, then Steve's diagram is just awesome, assuming the turn signal switch's signal is constant off of the column.

So that's a case closed, I guess? :)

[Canadian818]

Frank, my F150's drl are the amber turn signals and they flash.

[Frank818]

The DRLs flash along with the turn signal? I didn't know OEM does it that way. And I highly doubt a car in AB is built differently than a car in QC. I see a lot of F-150s (as anywhere in NA anyway) and never noticed that, what year/version? I will try to spot on a few around and say to the driver "Hey man, Adam says the DRLs flash, activate your blinker, plz" lolll

But either way, I personnaly don't like when the DRLs blink in between the turn signal, I still want to fix this for me. And for 20 bucks I think I fixed it as well as the connector plugs.

For a couple of bucks but more time, Steve's diagram is perfect.

[wleehendrick]

The DRLs flash along with the turn signal? I didn't know OEM does it that way.

I've noticed that with the newer/trendy perimeter strip LED DRLs (not lamp type DRLs) most turn off the DRL on the side that the turn signal active on for better front turn signal visibility. Lamp DRLs seem to always stay on. On the newer VAG's with the LED strip DRLs, I think the function can be adjusted. So, there doesn't seem to be consistancy that I've noticed.

[Frank818]

Very very close. :)

59390

08-14 Dodge Challenger/Charger side markers on all 4 corners. It's official, my car is American!




So, there doesn't seem to be consistency that I've noticed.

Correct, it's just like building a kit car. lollll

[wleehendrick]

08-14 Dodge Challenger/Charger side markers on all 4 corners. It's official, my car is American!

Frank, the Dodge Challenger/Charger are built in Brampton, Ontario (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brampton_Assembly). Sorry, still Canadian! :p

[Canadian818]

Frank, the Dodge Challenger/Charger are built in Brampton, Ontario (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brampton_Assembly). Sorry, still Canadian! :p

Hahahahahahahahahahaha

[Frank818]

Waitwait lolll, I meant the spirit of the car is American, not where it's built. :) If I were to look at that only, the side markers are made in China (written in the back), so actually my 818 is Chinese. :)

But Dodge is owned by USA people right? I guess proud Americans made the design too? And it has a nice American V8 rumble in it, although that won't do anything to my side markers...

[myjones]

Waitwait lolll, I meant the spirit of the car is American, not where it's built. :) If I were to look at that only, the side markers are made in China (written in the back), so actually my 818 is Chinese. :)

But Dodge is owned by USA people right? I guess proud Americans made the design too? And it has a nice American V8 rumble in it, although that won't do anything to my side markers...

The Dodge marq is now owned by the Italians, has all the Hemi's built in Mexico and is assembled in Canada so it's more of a Mutt/Heinz57/Canardly tell ;)
BUT the spirit of any SRT is definitely American :cool:
DB Hemi33

[Frank818]

The Dodge marq is now owned by the Italians, has all the Hemi's built in Mexico and is assembled in Canada so it's more of a Mutt/Heinz57/Canardly tell ;)

Oh crap lolll


BUT the spirit of any SRT is definitely American :cool:

Phew!!!! Thanks for that. :) SRT and Hellcat, I believe. And of course the HPE1000. :) 100% American power!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vmNs8EhT_To

[Frank818]

Today I video taped Wayne riding his new toy, first vehicle on the video.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuUetSYG93g

[Frank818]

This is what I call a true switchback:


http://youtu.be/G8J_v0qJuwc

[Frank818]

If you take a look at 7m21s, for 1m05sec long, these guys are doing EXACTLY what we are doing with our 818s!!! Amazing! And this is a 1M Euro car.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTwd1PRGbZM


Also listen carefully to what the guy says at 25m08s+. They know how to build a car.

[Canadian818]

This is what I call a true switchback:


http://youtu.be/G8J_v0qJuwc

Where can I buy these?

[Frank818]

You can buy them anywhere in the world, as long as you have internet access. Oh, uhm, you meant... yeah... sorry. loll

Here http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=switchback+led+tube&_sop=15

[Frank818]

And it continues.

Body completed!

Ok what's my definition of "completed". Well I did not touch the ****ing doors yet, that's in the end. And I have not cut the hood louvers, at the end as well. But everything else is done. All bolts are drilled, I mean holes, the body can fit on the car all together including diffuser and splitter. I have done my upper and bottom VRaptor's rear bumper grills, I have cut the humps louvers, the engine cover top NACA ducts, my side sails NACA ducts, belly pan NACA ducts, the side sails scoops openings and I have fitted Kurk's big side scoops.

What's left are smaller things, like VRaptor's side scoop louvers, Craig's front hood hinges, epoxying louvers all around, glassing brackets for my side markers, fixing broken body parts, stuff like that.
I have fitted all 4 side markers. Last one took me half the original time, 2-2h15.

Kurk's side scoop where complicated to fit, unlike Chad. The holes for the epoxied bolts are almost impossible to have right in a 1/4 hole. Needed to enlarge and enlarge many times all of the holes, but it won't affect strength cuz it doesn't require a lot of torque on the nuts to keep the scoops tight on the body. Also there's a gap left mostly at the bottom and a bit rear of the scoop. It's worse on the driver's side, I'm happy how it turned out on the pass but driver took me twice as long for twice worse result. I had to trim and adjust and stress the scoop in order to fit and it's not as good as pass. I don't know yet what to use to hide that gap. Though of silicone but I think it won't last in an area exposed like this. I would prefer tiny round rubber strips I could glue on the scoops, but I can't find what I want, it's like those around OEM headlight buckets.

For those fitting VRaptor's louvers (I'm the only one I think), you CANNOT cut the inner recess section of the FFR scoop, like Kurk did. Cuz you need all of it to epoxy the louvers on. And since I cut the FFR scoops all the way to the outside edge, Kurk's scoops cannot be drilled and attached on the curvy side. It needs to be cut out as well. So I drilled a hole at the top rear of the scoop to keep it the rear tucked in.

These pix are all from passenger.

5957059571595725957359574



I always start with the passenger side so if I make a mistake I care less cuz I will never see it. But for some reason, I counted 5 things that are done better on the passenger side than the driver. That sucks.

[Canadian818]

Looking good Frank! What's the purpose of using the side scoops and louvers together?

[Frank818]

Kurk's side scoops are to get more air in (proven to work) and also for looks, I will wrap them matte black and my side sails will be matte blue.

The louvers are mostly to redirect air where it's useful (most nice cars know how to, check out Porsche with their side scoops, if they don't have 1+ fin in it, then they have designed the scoop to be efficient in the 1st place. I'm sure FFR didn't and I'd be wrong to assume they did).
They may help smooth out the airflow if the air is turbulent in that area (no one knows) but their main effect is to redirect air in the right location. Without them the airflow hits directly on the rear splash guard. That's inefficient, especially that my intake filter is located at the top front of that splash guard, so I want as much air as possible there. The excess will flow over the guard and to the rear bumper, helping a little, I guess, moving hot exhaust air around. Any little thing I can do to move the exhaust air should be good. I am doing many of those little things so I expect a good result in the end.

[Frank818]

I'm looking for advice on shock rebound adjustment.

I read and reread articles and whatnots on internet about rebound damping and I always end up confused with no decision taken.

If I understood, "more rebound damping" = "stiff rebound damping" = "shock will get back to its original position more slowly" = "could cause packing if the shock has not come done and the wheel hits another bump". Is that all true?

Then, let's assume a shock has 3 adjustable positions, less/soft damping (63 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham with blown shocks), average (Subaru Impreza) and high/stiff damping (F1).

With an impreza engine and a weight of Xlbs in the back the shocks are set to AVERAGE and the car handles perfectly on straights and curves, with and without bumps and weight transfer is done in a way to maximize traction.

Now I change the drivetrain and fit something with more weight, say X+Ylbs. Now the magical question: if I want to keep that balance I had before, should I stiffen the rebound (turn clockwise for F1 powaaaa) or soften the rebound (turn counterclockwise for Cadillac boat ride)?

Who's gonna risk himself answering that. :)

[Hindsight]

Well the shocks are valved for the springs, the unsprung weight of the car, the motion ratio of the suspension, and the weight of the car. You can't compare it to the impreza.

With your engine, I'm guessing you are going to need stiffer springs anyway.

There are really only two ways of figuring out what shocks and shock settings to run:
1. Math (requires someone who knows what they are doing, and a bunch of measurements you take - similar to what i did)
2. Trial and error

Math gets you close enough to ballpark it, but you still need to adjust the shocks to fine tune it. So really, #2 is the only way. Sorry :( I am guessing you are asking because you want to set the shocks at some setting now and not have to futz with them again.

There are books and articles online on how to tell if you need more or less rebound (based on what you feel while driving), and the best racers will change their settings based on the race track they are running on a particular day.

[Frank818]

I was expecting you to reply. :)

So then it confirms what I thought but didn't say, that the rebound adjustment cannot be used to compensate significantly added weight over the weight the suspension was designed for. Makes sense.

Then I will wait until 1- I get to test the FFR setup and feel if it's too mushy and 2- get to scale the car, then I would send off those numbers to Koni and since they know every other numbers part of the equation, they would just swap the corner weights and F/R weights with mines and would probably have enough info to guide me through which setup I would need.

That's the approach I'll take for now.

[Hindsight]

That sounds like a good approach to me Frank. You'll want to get corner weights on the car, then contact them about both shock valving, as well as spring rates, because they will need to be paired together.

[Frank818]

Yes, I believe I'll need to change all 8 components, at least I'll get minded to that so I won't have any surprises if it happens. :)

Should I adjust the corner weights (as equal as possible) before I give them the numbers or do I just drop the car on scales and give the raw results without adjustments?

[RetroRacing]

Yes, you need to worry about weight jacking when playing with rebound. Rebound controls the "bounce" of the spring as in the speed at which the spring rebounds from compression. Stiffer springs require more rebound. To much spring and to little rebound equals abrupt transition, throws weight side to side, front to back. Too little spring and too much rebound makes it so that the spring can't return fully to ride height, and in transition can actually "jack down", which transitions the weight of the car (and overheats the shock). Quite frankly, it's voodoo, plain and simple. A good shock guy can make a HUGE difference in lap times, ease of drive, etc. We desperately need one, even though our car is working quite well, in this case, I know what I don't know and shock tuning is it.

We have it set up safe. That allows us to get some data to give to a shock witch doctor so that we can spend money once, if required, and begin the fine tuning process. Lot's of guys go spend money on remote adjustable shocks, then never adjust them, and sometimes don't even need them. Personally, I would start simple, adjust one thing at a time and get hours on the car. Keep notes, including tire temps, heat cycles, durometer readings, air pressure, track temp, air temp, how much fuel is in the car, etc. Take out as many variables as you can (like run the same amount of fuel for testing everytime). Never use your first two or three laps as an indicator, tires and cars need to be at operating temp. Use the same driver in the car, one that knows the car. Driving styles are sometimes extremely different and can really skew results.

[Frank818]

Interesting information indeed. It's true the driver makes a huge difference, F1 setups are there to prove it, every driver uses his own suspension setup and other driver driving a different car would not do as good laps.

Seems really the best to 1st test my current setup, maybe try one rebound adjustment and see the difference. Although chances are I would really need different springs and shocks just because I have a few 100s more lbs in the back and probably a good. Testing is first step. As for front, water weighs 8.35lbs per gallon and I have around 4gal that FFR doesn't, that's 33lbs.

[Frank818]

Today was my 1st 818 encounter. Or should I say 1st 818 guy encounter.

Frank (818R) came along to get the old bumper and fenders from the old nose, as spare parts. He did the trip with Frank. Nope, I haven't copy-pasted our names, here. All of us were Franks, quite frankly! Can't forget anyone's name with that.

I learned a lot of things about what he did, discussing our builds on the forum vs in person is totally different!
He also rejuvenated my interest in my build. While we were grabbing something to eat, he was describing how the 818 feels and compares to other cars and what other cars he'd not get over the 818. Turns out the 818 is exactly the type of car I was looking for and that for even twice or 3 times the price I couldn't find anything close to it, not even the rawest cars on the market. I kinda knew that in a certain way, but he gave me more details and proof that the 818 is THE car. It put a wider smile on my face which now I'm sure I'll keep all the time through my build. If I ever lose it, I'll think again about what he described and it'll get back.

The only downside of this chat is that now I am 100 times eager to get the car done. lolll Tnx for that, Frank... :p

My goal is to have it done soon enough to drive down to his place and have fun around!


60079

[Scargo]

To be frank, I have to ask, did you guys have hot dogs? Nice story, though it's confusing. Couldn't one of you be "Bubba"?

[redfogo]

Frank I love those side sails NACA ducts. I might have to borrow that idea :D. Builds looking great!

[Frank818]

Frank I love those side sails NACA ducts. I might have to borrow that idea :D. Builds looking great!

Tnx, you'd be the second one if Adam's rotary decides to implement that solution as well. I can't wait to see how it looks with the bi-color wraps on the car. A few more months!

[Scargo]

Frank I love those side sails NACA ducts... They are not NACA ducts!
The bigger scoops are needed but they need to directly cool an oil cooler or intercooler. I seriously doubt they are big enough for track duty even if they are fully utilized.

[AZPete]

Shop is much too clean. Probably just a photoshop phony with one 818 and two Franks spliced in.

[Frank818]

They are not NACA ducts!
The bigger scoops are needed but they need to directly cool an oil cooler or intercooler. I seriously doubt they are big enough for track duty even if they are fully utilized.

They are NACA ducts-like shape for airflow only, no cooling in mind for those. It may help drag the hot air from the hot coolant pipe away from the tank and part of side pods, but I don't know. Their main purpose is looks.


Shop is much too clean. Probably just a photoshop phony with one 818 and two Franks spliced in.

The shop is dirty on the pic. :)

[longislandwrx]

3 Franks... it's a damn sausage party.

I hope you guys had some classic one liners.

https://youtu.be/B0RQe1dMb04

[Frank818]

Yeah I thought of that one! That movie is often in my head with its one liners and catch phrases. And my neighbour is called Raymond, so I always thought of Raymond Colitry, however you write it.

[Frank818]

For the cool people watching this build, every month I challenge my estimated to-do list left, just to check about how long I still need to work on. Basic project management activity. Since Aug I'm working on the body. So easy... long but easy. In the last 3 months I've been working on every part of the body and today I re-challenged my to-do list based on the pace I've been putting in the last 3 months. Last spring or summer I said I would make it for spring/summer 2017.

Today, I listed my to-do list, so that I won't forget anything (that I'm thinking about) and also to re-estimate my time left. Turns out I seem to have another 275-300h to spend before all is done (wrap included), minus troubleshooting (alignment, leaks, tuning issues, desperate bumpsteer kit required, mechanical issues, breaks, etc.). That is 275-300h before I start the engine again and drive on a track (+ dyno).

275-300h at 15-20h/day shoots me up to... you guessed, March 2017. So in every way I estimate my time left, I always end up in spring 2017, even 3 months later the target still holds. I think it's a good target. Anyway before April I can't start the engine (weather-wise) and drive, so I should make it. Also at X-Mas I will spend probably 50h a week for 2 weeks, which will help as well.

I think I'm seeing the light at the end of that freakin long tunnel... or should I say "hearing the sound" at the end of the tunnel. :)


I'm waiting for a few things to complete to post videos and pix, they'll be cool I promise. :)


(Adam you might be interested in this for tuning)
Recently I viewed a youtube about people bench-testing a true American V8 (oh yeah! V8 rumble!! lolll) with 2.5" vs 3" exhaust. That video helped me understand why I was about 30-40% too lean when I first started my engine in June to Aug this year. Restriction... The more restriction you have, the less fuel the engine will burn cuz the less air comes in cuz less air go out due to restriction! (at least when the restriction comes from the exhaust). Since those guys were able to run the engine fine with both exhausts without changing the tune, that tells me my 30% off was huge (I had a part 2.5-3" exhaust before and now a full 3"). I believe I now have a very low restricted exhaust, compared to my Corrado one. Power and torque are probably going to be higher than I expected. I won't complain, for once.

[Scargo]

"For the rare people watching this build". Don't be self-deprecating. There are a lot that are interested in your build. I want to see it finished in the spring! I've enjoyed the build.

[Canadian818]

You definitely underestimate the interest. I for one follow almost every build, but only comment when I have something to add or a congratulations on a milestone. It's too bad there isn't a like button, I'd often like to applaud someone's work or effort but have nothing to contribute.

As for the tuning, I'm running richer than target, so that would imply my exhaust is much more restrictive. However my engine is soo far from a stock FD that there could be half a dozen other reasons.

[BN]

Did you say wrap do you know a good place in Quebec and will you take the car apart for it .

[Frank818]

You guys are absolutely right. Thinking about it I remember being surprised a few times at how many responses I was getting when I posting an issue. I'll retracted what I wrote in my post above.

Ben, I am wrapping myself, maybe with the help of 1-2 friends. Some panels will be wrapped on the car, some other apart.
If you want wrap, check out XPO at Vvivid on ebay or web site, they are located in Montreal and they build the wrap. Prices are good too and of course shipping for once is super cheap and 1-day (for me, could be 2-day for you).

[redfogo]

Its amazing how much you think your close to being done and then after you add up all the things your like wow I have a long ways to go! I don't know about you but some days I just go out into the garage and spend a few hours scratching my head trying to solve how to do something better there goes another 5 hours of nothing...

[Frank818]

Yeah and I just added a few hours to fix my seatbelts mounts and some more for Jeff's bump steer design fixing thing.

I used to be hours staring at something trying to figure out how to make it work (the fuel filler pipe is one!). That's the design part, very very time consuming. Now on the body the design has gone way down so it's a lot easier to estimate what I got left. But this morning I spent 3h trying to get one door to open fully (the front edge of the door was hitting everywhere, including on the fender inner lip). I can't make it 100% without hitting on something so I found an idea to put a stopper. Will have pix in a month or so once I get my chinese part. lolll

The worst "staring at" moment I had was on my transmission bell crank parts, the brackets to move the shaft. I was sitting behind the transmission and looked at it for 6h straight. Without doing anything! Just thinking, measuring, fitting parts,...


Happy Election day. Remember all, if a candidate thinks it's possible to make America great "again", that candidate is totally wrong, cuz USA is already extraordinarily great, "again" is irrelevant at the present time. :)

[turbomacncheese]

You definitely underestimate the interest. I for one follow almost every build, but only comment when I have something to add or a congratulations on a milestone. It's too bad there isn't a like button, I'd often like to applaud someone's work or effort but have nothing to contribute.

This.

[svanlare]

I have many threads that send me updates and I don't post nearly as often as I should, but I read them all eagerly even when I'm on traveling. There are not too many people who think building your own car is a sane idea and most us are hanging out places like here. Also, I'm a sucker for a good engine swap as what seems simple conceptially (replace this engine for that one) involves what seems like a zillion deatails that all have to be sorted. Even just going to a newer engine on my team's race car ('86 Z to as '91 Z) took a surprising amount of work. BTW, my spreadsheet currently shows me finishing September 15 2017, so a good bit behind yours so I'm sure I'll be "borrowing" ideas from here on out too. I'll keep reading closely and clearing you on.

[AZPete]

Hey, Frank, why are you holding out on your door fasteners! You told svanlare you had some good fasteners but now you are keeping it a secret. Do I have to call Wikileaks?

[svanlare]

Maybe I need to broker a deal, photos of Pete's interior for door fasteners! I'm in Scottsdale next week and would bring by a beer to take some photos :-)

[Frank818]

Hey, Frank, why are you holding out on your door fasteners! You told svanlare you had some good fasteners but now you are keeping it a secret. Do I have to call Wikileaks?

Yeah, Trump prevents me from releasing my income tax returns. I mean my fasteners ideas.
No it's cuz I'm still working hard on the damn doors. I want to take great pix of the steps I did differently and I'm waiting for one last tool to arrive before I can assemble all the fasteners.
Damn doors, at least 75h per door. BUT, soooooooo much easier than everything else I had to do before the body...

[Frank818]

Surprise below!

I've got a lot of pix waiting... waiting for parts to complete and more pix to come.

But I have started and completed 3-4 things today, like my mirrors and the hood hinges. Ok the hinges are not on the hood yet cuz the hood is not installed, but they are on the frame and ready.

In the past few weeks I moved all of the remaining car parts from my home's floor to the garage, on the car. For the 1st time in 2.5 years I was stepping foot on untouched floor since april 2014. The feeling was weird walking at places I was walking around for that long. loll

Oh yeah I also cut the louvers' holes on the hood. Looks really great, was long to get it smooth but it looks cool, tnx to Craig (again).


These are the hinges (Steve, using Craig's fasteners here):

60812


I blocked off the lower nose insert opening to increase slightly the splitter's efficiency (Steve, no fasteners here, only vinylester and cloth):

60820

And my mirrors. I am so ****ing proud of the installation! I passed the wires through a hole (not on pix) so the wire will not be seen anywhere.
Some of you may guess which car I got my inspiration from. I'm sure Adam will guess. Ok they are not as high as on that car but the part onto which I installed the mirrors is the same.
I think no one on the forum did that yet.
I had to modify some 1/4-20 flat head bolts so they would fit inside the slots which were made for hex drives and bolting only the lock nut from the other side. Since I have blind side using rivnuts, I had to get creative here (again).
If you do that on your car, beware, the metal surround's frame will be in the way on the top rivnut if you don't drill the hole as high as possible. I got lucky cuz I didn't know until after the 25/64 hole was drilled.


Result, voilà!:

6081560816608176081860819

:)




I also test fitted my wiper. It requires 2-3mm more of clearance in some places, which I will get when I will install my hood "anti-wobling" support, it will raise the middle of the hood and a bit the sides, which should clear the wiper without the need to cut/trim the hood's edge.

[flynntuna]

Love those mirrors.
Did you get them from eBay ?

[AZPete]

Hey, Frank, great mirrors! And nicely installed with hidden wire, modified flat-heads.
It's the hundreds of small accomplishments like your mirror project that make building an FFR car so much fun.
And, it's also fun for the rest of us to see innovations like this.
And, maybe copy.

[Hindsight]

Looks great Frank - your build is really picking up speed I feel. You should have your first drive with the body on in no time, though I guess the winter is long and cold up there eh? I'm sure you get some blue sunny days though, even if it is cold.

Have you decided on a color to paint it?

[Frank818]

Love those mirrors.
Did you get them from eBay ?

Yeah, after FFR they are the biggest parts provider. And you found those exactly, not sure how you did.
I got them in Aug 2013!! For 7 bucks more expensive than your picture. But the exchange rate was at par or super close back then so it's still cheaper than now for me. Over 3 years and now in 1 day I have taken them off of their dust (fiberglass dust for most of it) and installed them within hours. I never thought I'd get to the point of installing mirrors but I made it.

They are cheap, light too, which is great for the windscreen. They seem durable enough, time will tell. Seems to be real glass and not plastic. The LEDs are working (at least 3 years ago).


@Adam, if you can't guess which car I got inspiration from, lemme know. :)



It's the hundreds of small accomplishments like your mirror project that make building an FFR car so much fun.

Well said man, those are the small things I really love doing. They make the car improve better and more than the bigger ones, I feel. Cuz when I look at those smaller ones, I am proud. Wel the big ones too, but they never stand out as much as the little ones. Hard to explain, but everyone expects an engine to be in a car. Everyone expects doors, hood, wheels, etc. But few expect mirrors on the windshield, different flashy colors in the cockpit, special switchback LEDs, a great paint design, kick-*** wheels, 21" brakes, super aggressive headlights, and a lot of little things.



though I guess the winter is long and cold up there eh?
Have you decided on a color to paint it?

Should be spring. Every week that passes still make spring possible.
Yeah I decided on the color 3 years ago and bought my wrap 3 years ago, but bought a new one 2 weeks ago! Same color, just a little different, the "little different" that I wanted 3 years ago but couldn't find it. Now I did and jumped on it. So I have a 50'x5' roll that will never be used. 300 bucks lost, but I wasn't totally happy of that color and I know every time I would look at the car I would say it. Now I found the exact color and I will smile every time.

Blue. A special matte blue... with some matte black accents, very much like RetroRacing on the black. He found the exact places where to cut colors and change the look of the car. I have to copy.

But I think plasti-dipping is better than wrapping. For various reasons. Only problem: the gaps. It adds thickness to the body parts and in some areas I am not ready for that, wrap it the only way. Maybe one day in 8-10 years (that new wrap is said to stay one 7-8 years indoors, where the car is all the time except when driving).

[Hindsight]

Cool - if you are going to apply the wrap yourself, search you tube for "no heat wrapping" or something like that. found a video a while back where a guy at a trade show showed how to apply the wrap with a minimum of stretching and using NO heat. The minimal stretching and no heat prevents the wrap from pulling back and also keeps the matte finish even. Basically he just explained how you look at what the wrap is doing when you lay it down and you then stretch it by hand, cold, in just the right areas to minimize the actual amount of stretch needed. It it somewhat counter-intuitive but when you see the video, it will make sense. Looking forward to seeing that thing wrapped and on the road. Really looking forward to hearing the audio on some wide open throttle runs!

[flynntuna]

"Yeah, after FFR they are the biggest parts provider. And you found those exactly, not sure how you did."

They weren't hard to find because they have been on my radar ever since someone mentioned motorcycle mirrors in another thread while ago.
I guess great minds think alike. Lol :cool:

[Frank818]

Cool - if you are going to apply the wrap yourself, search you tube for "no heat wrapping" or something like that. found a video a while back where a guy at a trade show showed how to apply the wrap with a minimum of stretching and using NO heat. The minimal stretching and no heat prevents the wrap from pulling back and also keeps the matte finish even. Basically he just explained how you look at what the wrap is doing when you lay it down and you then stretch it by hand, cold, in just the right areas to minimize the actual amount of stretch needed. It it somewhat counter-intuitive but when you see the video, it will make sense. Looking forward to seeing that thing wrapped and on the road. Really looking forward to hearing the audio on some wide open throttle runs!

Note taken. Someone else who did a lot of wrapping said the only way he made it correctly was by applying a lot of heat. Since I have a huge mega roll of other kind of matte blue that I won't be using (anyone wants to buy it?), I could practice myself with that and try out those 2 techniques.
However I just got hit by a detail this morning, since I know the wrap is not a lifetime application and that I will have to remove it at some point, I cannot glue in place my louvers (and I got a lot of them on the car), cuz it will make the next wrap very hard to apply in these areas and hey! When I'll remove the wrap I will plastidip using an electric paint hand gun, I will not use wrap again. Maybe I'm ok to epoxy the louvers... but what if I wrap again. You might say ''get those bolts on a ring with holes, like those with the hood hinges kit and epoxy them''. Yeah but there are areas where the fibreglass is at an angle and it won't work to bolt the louvers in place. Will think a bit longer.


"Yeah, after FFR they are the biggest parts provider. And you found those exactly, not sure how you did."

They weren't hard to find because they have been on my radar ever since someone mentioned motorcycle mirrors in another thread while ago.
I guess great minds think alike. Lol :cool:

Might have been me but that was at least 2-3years ago. I wanted bike's mirrors cuz I wanted small legal mirrors with turn signals on. So damn cheap anyway. :)

[BN]

Can you show the wraps color

[Frank818]

Yes, the old color is post #96 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12179-Frank818-1993-VW-VR6-Turbo-donor-Build-Thread&p=134202&viewfull=1#post134202
I think it would look like RetroRacing:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18343-Retro-Racing-R-build&p=246338&viewfull=1#post246338
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18343-Retro-Racing-R-build&p=242655&viewfull=1#post242655

The new color, not yet, I want to keep it a surprise. So probably not until Spring.

[BN]

Very good research thanks

[redfogo]

Hey frank, in case your asking not sure if you are, but my experience with plastidip over the years is it's great when you put it on. Once it gets dirty though that's were is sucks the dirt is hard to clean it never seems to come 100% off. Touch-ups on plasti dip are also a little hard depending on the color. Strength wise plastidip holds up well in the elements just make sure to get the edges real good to prevent peeling.

[Hindsight]

Frank, RE louvers, I mounted them on the underside of the panels. Used #10 bonding studs epoxied to the fiberglass, then drilled holes in the louver flanges and secured with locks nuts. Fully removable.

[Frank818]

Hey frank, in case your asking not sure if you are, but my experience with plastidip over the years is it's great when you put it on. Once it gets dirty though that's were is sucks the dirt is hard to clean it never seems to come 100% off. Touch-ups on plasti dip are also a little hard depending on the color. Strength wise plastidip holds up well in the elements just make sure to get the edges real good to prevent peeling.

Yeah with the wrap touch-ups are a no go, unless you unwrap all the panel and re-wrap, just cuz of one chip. Expensive. If the only prob of plasti-dip is how to clean it, I'm sure I'd find a way or if it just takes more time, so be it. I'll see how the wrap holds up against chip. I might wrap a clear matte wrap over some portions of the panels, to give it more durability.


Frank, RE louvers, I mounted them on the underside of the panels. Used #10 bonding studs epoxied to the fiberglass, then drilled holes in the louver flanges and secured with locks nuts. Fully removable.

I am mounting them all on the inside, yes. Bonding studs! That's the word I was looking for. But I'm concerned about the... which ones again. I think the humps louvers. The inner side of the panel is at an angle but I guess I can easily bend the edges of the louvers and anyway they don't need great force. Ok I'll do that. Will order those studs. Maybe 6 per louvers, say.

[Hindsight]

I think the flanges on the louvers wont hit the curved part of the humps. Also, you can cut the bonding studs down a bit, to help them fit.

[Frank818]

Is there another word for the bonding studs?

http://www.jetpress.com/Products.aspx/lmrdappg16/MaleBondingFasteners-38MmRoundBase/

I tried searching Bonding studs, Bonding fasteners and Welding studs/fasteners and I can't find them at Fastenal, eBay, Amazon and Acklands Grainger. McMaster does not ship to Canada.

[Frank818]

Nope, I'm out of words...

https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-rods/=151c8fy

Bonding studs, Perforated Base Studs, Bonding fasteners, binding studs, Anchor bolt, can't find anything that would ship low quantities to a home address. This is again when I'm unhappy to not be in US... surprisingly I couldn't find anything on eBay and amazon.

[Pearldrummer7]

Nope, I'm out of words...

https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-rods/=151c8fy

Bonding studs, Perforated Base Studs, Bonding fasteners, binding studs, Anchor bolt, can't find anything that would ship low quantities to a home address. This is again when I'm unhappy to not be in US... surprisingly I couldn't find anything on eBay and amazon.

Hm, surprising. Sucks that McMaster doesn't ship there; they definitely have bonding studs (https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-rods/=151cpvs). Hell, I might even have some at work lol

I know a guy in Oswego who would be willing to re-send the order if you want :) you know how to reach me!

[Frank818]

I even found 1-2 other expressions, but all I get are studs from the UK. Studs as in bolts, of course. The cheapest I found was 55GBP for a pack of 100 + shipping. Expensive. I need 42 or so (pack of 50 would certainly work).

I'm taking your offer hands down, will double check that I need less than 50 and yeah I'll let you know by tonight. :)
P.S.: don't forget to keep us posted on your car improvements.

[redfogo]

Yeah with the wrap touch-ups are a no go, unless you unwrap all the panel and re-wrap, just cuz of one chip. Expensive. If the only prob of plasti-dip is how to clean it, I'm sure I'd find a way or if it just takes more time, so be it. I'll see how the wrap holds up against chip. I might wrap a clear matte wrap over some portions of .

Both will hold up well as long as you get the prep right I have done both on my rally car both held up really awesome! So both should work out nice :D. Even if you want to take your 818 off road in gravel and mud hahahaha!

I also am willing to ship you anything you need just let me know! :D

[Frank818]

Both will hold up well as long as you get the prep right

I also am willing to ship you anything you need just let me know! :D

Prep? Now that you mention it, I'm a bit confused as to what really needs to be done here. Some say (no I'm not the Stig) I would need 3M 94 Primer for the sharper edges. Others say for the whole car. More others say no need for a primer on any surface of the car. Almost all agree that removing grease and stuff like that with soap or alcohol propilyc stuff is a good way to go.
How would you prep the body surface for maximum hold?

Tnx for the shipping, Red, I'll keep in mind if need be. :)

[Frank818]

Cool - if you are going to apply the wrap yourself, search you tube for "no heat wrapping" or something like that. found a video a while back where a guy at a trade show showed how to apply the wrap with a minimum of stretching and using NO heat. The minimal stretching and no heat prevents the wrap from pulling back and also keeps the matte finish even. Basically he just explained how you look at what the wrap is doing when you lay it down and you then stretch it by hand, cold, in just the right areas to minimize the actual amount of stretch needed. It it somewhat counter-intuitive but when you see the video, it will make sense

Jeff, I couldn't find that video looking at various words for searching (seems like today is a bad day for me to search for something :)), but I found other stuff that seem to explain what that guy does.
I found out 2-3 important things:

1- Apply with minimal stretching and if in need to conform or stretch, do #2
2- Apply heat with a heat gun and LET IT COOL, then apply the wrap by stretching
3- Post-heat! I learned that vinyl wraps (for the most of em) loose its memory at 90-95C (180F). Its memory is what makes it want to come back to its original form, which is bad when on the car. To completely remove that moving force out of the way, post-heating any surface that has been stretched over 10% will make it keep the countours of that surface.

These 3 tips probably come back to the same stuff your no heat guy was talking about. Tnx for pointing it out!

[Hindsight]

https://youtu.be/aU8f8pi06Hs

[Pearldrummer7]

I even found 1-2 other expressions, but all I get are studs from the UK. Studs as in bolts, of course. The cheapest I found was 55GBP for a pack of 100 + shipping. Expensive. I need 42 or so (pack of 50 would certainly work).

I'm taking your offer hands down, will double check that I need less than 50 and yeah I'll let you know by tonight. :)
P.S.: don't forget to keep us posted on your car improvements.

Awesome :) Let me know and we can talk in PM. No big updates on car yet, but they're coming really soon I think!

[Frank818]

No wonder why I didn't find the tube vid. :) Tnx Jeff.

Right so the bonding studs will need to be cut in half (half-moon) in most places and bent in a few places, mostly the humps louvers. Easy. Unless I find a better shape than ooctagonal at McMaster.
10-32x1/2. Just looking at the right shape and I'll shoot you a PM, Frank. I mean Frank being your name, not me signing. :)

[Frank818]

Immortalized something we don't see often around here, yesterday at dawn.
He's got a James Bond plate. :)

60999

[AZPete]

Frank, when you get your 818 on the road he will be taking a pic of you. And drooling.

[STiPWRD]

Frank, here's another source for bonding studs:
http://rotaloc.com/products/bonding_fasteners/male-threaded-bolt-studs/

They offer lots of different options for materials and base shape/size. I bought a bunch of stainless 1/4-20 threaded studs from them (P/N: M1-T38x15-1/4-20x1.00).

[Frank818]

https://youtu.be/aU8f8pi06Hs

That tube is awesome!!! This guy is sick! And what he said is exactly what I have read textually on other websites, including the same 10% stretching, so it probably is true. I will definately follow his technique.

I think anyone should watch that vid, it's amazing what he explains.



Frank, when you get your 818 on the road he will be taking a pic of you. And drooling.

Damn right!!!!!



Frank, here's another source for bonding studs:
http://rotaloc.com/products/bonding_fasteners/male-threaded-bolt-studs/

They offer lots of different options for materials and base shape/size. I bought a bunch of stainless 1/4-20 threaded studs from them (P/N: M1-T38x15-1/4-20x1.00).

I found that website but couldn't order online and didn't wanna bother calling, I prefered the help of my bud Frank. :) But I kept it in my bookmarks, in case one day I call.

[STiPWRD]

I found that website but couldn't order online and didn't wanna bother calling, I prefered the help of my bud Frank. :) But I kept it in my bookmarks, in case one day I call.
When I ordered mine, I spoke with someone that helped me select what I needed and checked stock. The studs were on their way 5 min later. I don't even think there was a minimum quantity - they'll pretty much put however many you want in the bag.

[redfogo]

Prep? Now that you mention it, I'm a bit confused as to what really needs to be done here. Some say (no I'm not the Stig) I would need 3M 94 Primer for the sharper edges. Others say for the whole car. More others say no need for a primer on any surface of the car. Almost all agree that removing grease and stuff like that with soap or alcohol propilyc stuff is a good way to go.
How would you prep the body surface for maximum hold?

Tnx for the shipping, Red, I'll keep in mind if need be. :)

For prep work I mean just get a real nice clean surface. I have never primered or sanded down the surface on a car since most the time the paint is nice and isn't something I wanted to scratch up. I would assume though with sanded down/ primer surface things would stick better. At least that's the rule in the paint and glue world. Long story short in all my uses of wrap and plastidip the most important is just making sure everything is nice and clean. I haven't had any issues just doing that. Sharp edges are hard though with wrap. I still need to get that down better!

[Frank818]

STI, tnx for the info, they seem cool people. Will check if they ship to Canada, for my next order (I'm sure I'll need more fastener!).

RED, ok that's easy to have a clean finish. :)
Sharp edges, yeah, the 818 doesn't have that many, but I have created a lot of em with the louvers' and ducts' openings. :( I think I will apply some U channel door guards in those places, that'd take care of it. I found black and blue, that should work.

[Frank818]

Well, I have had the car for 132 weeks now. 32 of those weeks my mech had issues and I couldn't work on the car. 32, man, that's a lot. This is not happening anymore since 1 year ago when I got the car back with drivetrain installed. Since then it's 100% mine.

I have spent 100 weeks with at least 15mins of work on the car.

Total hours = 1950h. I wonder if anyone did more than that on this 818 forum...
That is an average of 19.5h per week!! Stunning! I didn't think I'd do better than 15h but I did. That is serious consistency, discipline and sacrifices.


Still waiting on couple of parts in order to post a lot of pix and 1-2 vids. May take weeks again. :( But as a teaser:

61043

[THE FURNACE]

Sorry, I can't tell what the teaser is. I guess I don't have enough hours in yet, to make out what that is. Lucky if we hit 15 hours every two months. Good job!

[flynntuna]

That's hardly a tease... It's obviously a close up pic of Bigfoot as your new helper.

[Hindsight]

Frank, you have dedication for sure. I never tracked hours... no clue where I am but would guess close to you.

[svanlare]

I've stopped tracking hours and dollars. At this point my wife and I have agreed the website says $15K and we are both happy not asking any questions beyond that.

For hours, since I'm sitting at the airport killing time I can take a stab at. I know I haven't spent as many as I would have liked as the car isn't running right now. I do have a spreadsheet that I'm tracking tasks and since I like seeing the burn-down actually go down, I've recorded each day I finish some work. So this doesn't count any of the think days (hanging out on the internet "planning") or how much time went into the days. I just summed up the spreadsheet (sitting at the airport killing time "thinking" about working on the car) and came up with 84 days with progress reported. At a 5-hour average (which I have no idea if it is right) comes out to 420 hours. I sure hope I don't have 1500 hours to catch up :D

[AZPete]

Stop this! Don't count hours, money, Band-Aids or bought-stuff trashed. All I know is I've spent some hours, some money, some boxes of Band-Aids and enough upholstery material for a school bus.

[Hindsight]

I quit tracking money as well. Too depressing. My buddy built a Cayman with a brand new crate LS3 for about half what I have into my 818.

[Pearldrummer7]

I stopped counting hours once I started driving the car. Now "working" on it often involves testing it, which involves hooning it around on track or the street....lines blur a lot between work and play now.

It gets even more fun :)

[Frank818]

I like tracking hours. Once it's done I'll be able to tell people how much hard work it was so they can gauge the tremendous amount of efforts put into this. Also it's very satisfactory for me to know I am capable to investing that many hours in so "little" (relative here) time, it makes me appreciate better the build. I didn't say I was tracking money, I still track what parts I put on the car so I know what I needed to use, but that's about it.

[Pearldrummer7]

I like tracking hours. Once it's done I'll be able to tell people how much hard work it was so they can gauge the tremendous amount of efforts put into this. Also it's very satisfactory for me to know I am capable to investing that many hours in so "little" (relative here) time, it makes me appreciate better the build. I didn't say I was tracking money, I still track what parts I put on the car so I know what I needed to use, but that's about it.

Makes total sense! It's a lot of working tracking the hours and I'm glad someone did. A cool metric for sure

[Frank818]

Very easy to track, actually. I check at what time I start working on it and what time I stop, then I open my Scribble app on my phone and punch in the # of hours. I waste less than 1min per "tracking cycle". :) Which means I lost many hours or work time, then. DOH!!! lolll

[svanlare]

If the goal was the best car for the minimum hours and money, then I think anyone who reads Jalopnik knows the answer is Miata.

I think of the equation more along the lines of a hobby where I want to spend maximum hours (Frank seems to be the winner here) and know that is will consume whatever cash it can (I never monitored my tire budget when I was driving the 911, but realized I had to think of tires as a consumable like gas). I didn't start knowing if I had what it took to get to a running car, so the learning is a huge part of the project and I have zero regrets about it although there a plenty of things I'll do better next time :-)

But maybe boxes of band-aids is the right metric - I have used a bunch!

[Frank818]

Easy to stratch plasti-dip, a smooth rub with a nail and...

61139



Wost... bracket... EVER!

61140

But it works nice! Very minimal up-down fan movement, I'll keep it that way. Couldn't find another acceptable solution to fit it in place.

[Frank818]

http://youtu.be/LRuDnCychso

[Hindsight]

You'll be glad you installed those hood hinges. Every time I open my hood at a car meet, I usually get some "ooooohhhs and aaaaaahhhs!" from the crowd.

[redfogo]

looking awesome frank!

[Frank818]

Which is why I need to strengthen the hood, it wobbles easily while opening/closing and when closing, the quick-latches are not aligned cuz the hood bends. Not a huge prob, in 1 year, it's on my list.

[svanlare]

The front hinges are pretty awesome, but the hood does look wobbly. I'm going to have to learn to do some fiberglass work too it seems. I really like the catches at the corners.

[longislandwrx]

Looks good Frank, Cutout sizes are awesome. What about just adding a third quick latch to the middle, to control flex while driving?

how often are you really going to open the hood?

[Canadian818]

Finally catching up on your thread Frank. The mirrors don't look familiar to me, but they look great! Can't wait for you to post a detailed write up of the wrap install as well, I'll be doing the same. Keep up the good work!

[Frank818]

What about just adding a third quick latch to the middle, to control flex while driving?

Hey not bad! I already fitted a rivnut to support my center hood bracket. :(
Oh wait, a quick-latch in the top middle of the hood close to the windshield? I need that cleared for the wiper, though.


how often are you really going to open the hood?

I... I don't know! I guess at least once a week to charge the battery after a couple of drives. I always keep it tendered. But I don't care much, the wobblieness will be taken care of after I pass inspection and have some fun with the car, as a winter project. So it's not part of my priorities right now, as long as I keep the middle portion of the hood as high as I can to clear for the no-cut (hopefully) wiper.



The mirrors don't look familiar to me, but they look great! Can't wait for you to post a detailed write up of the wrap install as well, I'll be doing the same. Keep up the good work!

They don't? Oh come on...

(http://www.autodrome-cannes.com/pagani_zonda_2001_silver_front2.jpg)61250

Not the same mirrors but same location (although higher).

[Frank818]

Fitted my engine bay fan to extract hot hot hot hot air right from the top of the turbo.


http://youtu.be/MVtiv1xI-28

[Frank818]

Oh crap, that's the wrong video with the stupid mistake I made... here's the good one:


http://youtu.be/pnQVjTKqsIE

[Frank818]

What's wrong with my white gel coat?

61251

It turned? Thank god I have 4 different pints, the other one I checked was paste. Really cool and easy stuff to work with, it hardens so much once cured!

I fixed some voids, I use a stick and I hammer on the edges of the panels, hard enough. If there is a void something will crack, chip or pop. I found many like that.

[Canadian818]

I guess I've always been to obsessed with the back end of the car to notice the mirrors, lol.

[Kurk818]

What's wrong with my white gel coat?

61251

It turned? Thank god I have 4 different pints, the other one I checked was paste. Really cool and easy stuff to work with, it hardens so much once cured!

I fixed some voids, I use a stick and I hammer on the edges of the panels, hard enough. If there is a void something will crack, chip or pop. I found many like that.

It looks like it has separated out. Just remix and test a small swatch on a piece of paper to ensure it hardens properly.

[Frank818]

Hey Kurk, yeah my next step is to try to mix it. If it works I'll keep it, if not I'll dispose of it.

BTW I have fixed your broken scoop, the one UPS badly broke on the top rear edge (where 3 different lines/angle meet). I just need to sand off, that gel coat is pretty cool. Of course, it is the driver's side scoop...

[Frank818]

I received my tow hook yesterday and Dan was right. It is a M12 bolt which fits nice on the front rad 3/4 tubing. Many hooks have an M16 bolt which will make quite more difficult to drill right and may weaken more the frame. So be careful if you buy one these, make sure it's 12mm bolt.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/262179649028

[longislandwrx]

Oh wait, a quick-latch in the top middle of the hood close to the windshield? I need that cleared for the wiper, though.


bummer, what about glassing in a piece of flat aluminum that picks up both quick latches.


I... I don't know! I guess at least once a week to charge the battery after a couple of drives. I always keep it tendered.


my battery tenders have all come with the hardwired pigtail that doesn't require the alligator clamps. I run it out the front on my Firebird so I don't even need to pop the hood to connect it. If yours didn't you can buy separately.

61295

highly recommend. also, if you run the quick disconnect to the drivers compartment, you can get this gem as well.

Battery Tender USB Port (PU38070231)
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0158-Disconnect-Charger/dp/B00DJ5KEF4

or this

Battery Tender Quick Disconnect Plug with LCD Voltage Display
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DJ5KE9A?psc=1

[Frank818]

1st, on the tender. Yes I do have those ring terminals. And cool other stuff man I didn't know battery tender was making quick disconnects. A few weeks ago I've ordered some Anderson connectors, does pretty much the same thing:

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=anderson+connectors&view=detailv2&adlt=strict&id=03F5647F54BD32E75FF0D226FD4C08ABFA14E27B&selectedIndex=8&ccid=C3zFsCp%2b&simid=607987342518190989&thid=OIP.M0b7cc5b02a7ee39e052976bf67638e88H0

Different colors but I do have the plug at the end. It's true I may not need to open the hood anymore, I'd need to place the connector in the cockpit, which I wasn't thinking of doing, no more space to run wires, but I could drill holes through the FW though. I know how to drill holes, right? And doing so would solve a design issue I had for when I'll fab my rad box. Yeah I'll follow your idea! Tnx!


On the hood, yes the alu flat bar glassed side-to-side on the latches or say 1in off of them would certainly help. I just think the alu flat bar I got is not solid enough for 4 feet long. I'll test that. Or I could glass 1/8x3/4 flat steel bar, if need be. It's not a race car so a couple of grams more isn't a problem, as long as I don't say that to myself on all the parts I use. :)

[RM1SepEx]

I put the battery tender connection behind the little door that I installed to check and add oil in the front of the driver's side hump

[AZPete]

Try to have the Battery Tender connection near the diver's seat where it will be very obvious, like looped over the steering wheel, because you don't want to drive off with it connected. Please don't ask how I learned this.

[Frank818]

How did you learn that? :) Joking. Sorry you had to learn the hard way.
I was planning pretty much the same place or somewhere obvious.

[RM1SepEx]

Try to have the Battery Tender connection near the diver's seat where it will be very obvious, like looped over the steering wheel, because you don't want to drive off with it connected. Please don't ask how I learned this.

Mine is right behind the driver's seat, can't miss the cord... Pete I'd never do something like drive off plugged in ;-)

[Frank818]

Pete I'd never do something like drive off plugged in ;-)

Yeah it's like cranking the engine without an engine. Who would do that.

[longislandwrx]

Try to have the Battery Tender connection near the diver's seat where it will be very obvious, like looped over the steering wheel, because you don't want to drive off with it connected. Please don't ask how I learned this.

could have been worse.

61302

[flynntuna]

could have been worse.

61302

Ha ha ha ha ha ha now that's funny

[Frank818]

TO ALL, post-dated as of Nov 25 2016, I wish you guys a damn great TG!!! No that is not "Top Gear", it's "ThanksGiving".

Take advantage of all the sales, shop online until Monday you might find great parts deals!! Or stuff for your wife, if you got any. I don't, so I'm rich. lolll

[Scargo]

Thanks Frank. We are all rich but seldom realize it. You Canucks... so sentimental.

[Frank818]

Forgot some info for Steve and his body fasteners. I also have a small update on tow hook.

Speaking of hook, I drilled the hole in the middle of the rad frame, which is exactly where I drilled a 10-32 rivnut to bolt the rad floor panel, so I had to drill out the rivnut and will offset it.
Because it's so difficult to drill exactly in the middle of a tube, I of course missed, although my mark was perfectly in the middle. Therefore I felt the top of the tube was too thin and I didn't want it to bend, so I welded an 1/8 flat piece over it.

61381


I also repaired many gel coat areas (still more to do), including a total blow up of 1" of the front fender lip (driver's side of course!!!). It fell on the hump of the engine cover and 1" of gel coat exploded to pieces. I managed to repair it so great that no one, not even me, will notice it. I start to get the hang of this ****. lolll I found out there's probably void all over the place around the fender lips.

I then again also reformed a big trimming I performed on the passenger's door front. Fiberglass and gel coat, will have pic later on.


Now Steve! On the hood hinges, I wanted to locate the studs at the very bottom of the slots so that the hood's weight would be supported by the brackets and not the clamping force. Was pretty hard to align things right and ensure I would glass the studs in the exact right place. Over 1mm off and the studs wouldn't fit. First try first success, it worked. I used the bracket with its side-to-side bar to get the studs in the right place and I used 3M 8115 bonding panel to bond them at an angle, so they would be flush with the brackets. I filled up underneath each stud with resin and fiberglass and of course all around, over, etc.

61380

In the end I used Mike's trick (the Mike with a wicked yellow smiley face as avatar) to space out the bracket using washers over the fiberglass that is over the studs. I sanded to make as flush as possible and it works perfect. No pic of that.

[Frank818]

A few weeks ago my father had a broken handle on a drawer. Wood drawer, metal handle fastened by a bolt from the inside. The threads inside the handle were all ****ed and the bolt was slipping through. I told my father I would repair it. He was surprised, as even him did not have a clue on how to (parents don't know I'm building the 818). I re-threaded the handle, used a different bolt and voilà!!! Good as new! This would have NEVER been possible without all I learned with the 818... there are also a few other things I repaired in the past year that without the 818 I would have dumped them.


Hey US guys... what's most important and most partied, 4th of July or Thanksgiving?

[Frank818]

What's wrong with my white gel coat?

61251

It turned?

It's dead. I can mix it, it comes back white, as it should, bu very liquid, like more liquid than yogurt, something like white honey. Maybe it needs to be mixed super fast for a long period. Oh well, I know I will not use more than 1 pint, far less from that, and I got 4, so disposing of 1 isn't an issue. I found another pint that was dead too. Not the same color but same problem. I suspect they are from 2.5 years ago. I strongly advise anyone who gets gel coat from FFR to either mix it a couple times a year or use it before it's too late. Some say 1 year, other say 1 year when opened... many say if put in fridge it'll last longer, no one says how long.

Doesn't matter, I'll do all my repairs before next autumn and then if I have an accident or rocks chip off the coat, I'll just buy some more, it's cheap compared to all the other parts I've bought so far. loll

[flynntuna]

Hey US guys... what's most important and most partied, 4th of July or Thanksgiving?[/QUOTE]

Hey Frank, Thanksgiving and the 4th of July are completely different animals, (at least herein southern Ca.). Thanksgiving is more a family thing like Christmas. Were as the 4th has more of a party feel, cause your with friends and neighbors. Although family can be included but not essential. Also since the 4th is in summer it lends itself to more of a " party" atmosphere.

[svanlare]

Funny about the drawer screw, there are many projects that have come up in the past two years that I both have the skill and tools to solve the right way now.

[turbomacncheese]

Hey US guys... what's most important and most partied, 4th of July or Thanksgiving?

Hey Frank, Thanksgiving and the 4th of July are completely different animals, (at least herein southern Ca.). Thanksgiving is more a family thing like Christmas. Were as the 4th has more of a party feel, cause your with friends and neighbors. Although family can be included but not essential. Also since the 4th is in summer it lends itself to more of a " party" atmosphere.[/QUOTE]

Agreed. Thanksgiving, we're proud of our families, subdued, party inside. The 4th, we're proud of America, boisterous, party outside.

[Frank818]

So I take it you get a lot of gifts on Thanksgiving. Therefore all of you got nice car parts for the 818 this w-e? :)

Let's see how happy about Trump you'll be on the 4th.


Steve do you have any of Craig's louvers? I decided to use the same method and fasteners.

I glue some Rotaloc (from McMaster, Frank shipped them to me) 10-32x1/2 studs using 3M 8115 bonding panel epoxy. The waxed paper is great, you can squeeze on the epoxy and enlarge the bonding surface, then once cured you can remove them without any part sticking. Besides the serious bond from the 3M, I like the fact it has a 90mins working time. Not 15 like resin. And less if you put more hardener.
I will secure the bonds in place with a bit of fiberglass once I have installed all of them (about 28). The bond is more than enough but I'll still glass them up.

61403

[Frank818]

Relatively huge update. I have been holding on a lot of pix, progress and... DOORS INSTALLATION!!! Will post a couple of posts.

First of, BN (Ben) from QC passed by this Friday. Really nice guy, he's building a C and has a Cobra for about 8 years now. We are both stupid guys cuz we forgot to take pix of ourselves in front of my car!! So I guess none of this happened, right? Cuz as we say "no picture it ain't happened!" Oh well, next time we will take some and it may be with both our cars.

He gave me details on the fuel filler neck, I believe the reason why recent kits have a neck that aligns properly with the cap is the rubber hose at the bottom of the tank, as the neck is the exact same. Old kits have a 2" VERY hard rubber hose with a red stripe. That thing doesn't bend. He said he's got a weird elbow part with a larger end and he cut only the straight portion and fitted at the bottom of tank and then at the cap. That rubber is a LOT softer and can bend easily. Which helps aligning the damn neck. I will mail Courtney and order a piece.


Ok so recently I did a lot of gel coat and fiberglass repairs. Here's one on the engine cover, it was cracked, both fiberglass and gel coat. I thickened it and it added a lot of strength.

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Funny, I don't have pix of the best repair I did. My driver's side (of course that one!) front fender lip has exploded about 1" long. The gel coat was gone and I had to fill it with new one. And sanded a lot. The repair is not noticeable at all, even I have trouble. It is right at the angle, the pointy part of the lip, so I had to gel and sand in a V shape.

Some other repair, the 3-angle edge on the scoop was also exploded, this time by stupid UPS (I hate them since 100 years). I had to refill and reshape the edge. I'm surprised I was able to make it! Good as new, Kurk!

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Now these are my VRaptor's side scoop louvers to direct the airflow better. On the passenger's side I had to remove 5 of the 8 fins to clear out my air filter. Oh well...

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These are Craig's louvers, all of the front ones. They are not fully bolted on the pic so the fenders one sit a little lower than they will be.

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[Frank818]

!!Door Installation Post!!


Ok finally the doors are done and I can post about my entire installation. I wanted all in one single post so that people won't need to search through the thread, since the door installation is better when taken as a whole.


Including their finish and a 10-12h mistake, it took a good 75h per door. There's a lot of details to fit the doors, but nothing that hard.


I used many different fasteners and a new solution to strenghten the cardboard.
I also based my installation on Tamra's Door Installation Guide. Pictures are great and it helps understanding and sorting the steps. My post here does not say in which order to do what.



First off, the striker should be installed, using OEM's bolts, at least 1" from the inner side of the side sail, as per FFR's manual (YES! The dusty manual has served me!). This step is the FIRST to do, otherwise you just don't know where to install your frame and your frame inside the skin. I lost 1h doing nothing until I found out in the manual. Tamra's installation guide did not mention this step.


I found out the frame sits good around 1/2" from the sail.

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M6 flat heads are used to keep the latch mechanism in place (to frame), but I did not use the alu template/bracket provided by FFR (to space between frame and skin), in order to give more clearance door/side sail. I did drill 2 M6 holes like Tamra to secure the skin on the frame behind the latch, using black bolts.


Then I drilled 4 M6 holes in the back and bottom (2 each) and 5 holes for the driver's door which was harder to fit. This is to secure the skin and cardboard together. There is a large gap in some areas that I still need to fill with something I don't know what yet. On the holes I drilled, I used awesome M6 U-clips http://www.ebay.com/itm/131920382444?item=131920382444&viewitem=&vxp=mtr fitted on the cardboard.

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I prefer that to screwing screws through the cardboard, that is ok for a one time use, but removing and re-installing many times it's not as strong and in some areas I needed good strength to pull the cardboard against the skin. Using black bolts all around.


Then at the top of the door I used 8 6-32s per door, yeah those are really small, I wanted to hide as much as possible the bolts there, but I think 8-32s would be better. For some reason I had a hard time rivnutting the rivnuts, they are crushed at the top, all of em, but they are solid. Using M4 black nylon washers with those bolts.


At the top front where some install the mirror bracket I used 2 M6 button head and 2 M6s flat head at the bottom of the frame. All blacks.


I had to trim very very slightly the cardboard to make it flush inside the skin, otherwise the door doesn't close with the proper gaps or not at all. I also trimmed some of the skin's edge on the inner side (mostly rear and rear bottom) so it clears out better the inner side of the sail close to the seats. Gives more play to better adjust the gaps and tuck in the cardboard a little more again for better adjustability.


Then I changed the provided 2" 1/4-20 bolts to secure the opening handle to frame, they're too short. I used 2.5" black bolts and I dropped to 10-32, cuz the rivnut is smaller and the hole is really close to the side of the tube, on the pass door I just couldn't use an 1/4-20 rivnut.


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The installation location of the opening handle is critical, as you need the cardboard and/or the alu center insert piece to act as a hard stopper for the handle to twist when you pull the trigger. Take your time here, too much trimming and you're ****ed.


Unlike Tamra, the rods were easy to bend and not frustrating at all (actually it was cool), the first one took more time but the driver's rod took me 1min and I got it a nice shape and perfect length. Make sure you give it the length required just before it wants to bend the handle. When you pull, if the mechanism has reached its max and you can still pull the handle more, you're too far, it'll twist/bend (doesn't break anything). Shorten the rod a little again.


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To strenghten the cardboard I first checked where it's weaker. Many have installed a long alu bracket on the top of skin to hold the top section of the cardboard, but is it really there that it's weak? Although that long L bar does help a lot, my goal was to see if I could build a smaller bracket and still get rid of all of the weak areas. Yes I can. Since you pull the close handle attached to the cardboard when you close the door, I found out that just above the pull handle is the weakest point, where the cardboard was bowing most. At the bottom it's held tight by my U-clips. Just above the handle, I drilled a 10-32 hole to fit a 2" black flat head (spare bolt I had laying around) and underneath, I welded a support bracket onto the frame and carefully aligned the rivnutted hole to the bolt, using some nylon spacers I bought. In the end you can weld your bracket very close to the cardboard and use washers, it's the same. Then when I pull to close the door it pulls on that bolt which is tightly in place to the frame (not skin) and nothing wobbles. I'm actually pulling the frame and not the door. I'm pretty proud of this one, I don't like a wobbling door.

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I will use double-sided tape to fit the alu insert. I thought of bolting through the alu insert and into my bracket but it would look weird to have just one bolt and would still need tape on the rear section of the insert.

On the closing handle I am using some M6s with weird heads, just for fun. So damn tight on the frame when closing the door, though.


Now installing the door in place. That is the most body alignment critical part I've had so far and it can move in every direction but it's super easy to align. You have a lot of play so there's always a way to make the gaps perfect (hear that Mike? lolll). Make sure you use your door stoppers BEFORE you try to trim the skin!! Don't ask how I know, I had to bring back some of the skin by applying fiberglass and gel coat cuz I just didn't know FFR provided stoppers before I came across the parts stored in my garage or read a post here... haaawwwww-haawww (Mike). The badest part is that I trimmed a lot the fender lip. on the passenger side. :( Looks thin now. Harder to re-do the fiberglass there, I'll see what I can do.

I did weld some metal to the stoppers to make the doors close just a little less, add clearance and also ensure the stoppers are firmly in place metal to metal, so when you open the door to the max it won't bend the stopper (which would make it opening a little more and hit somewhere).


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My cardboard is wrapped with black faux-suede and my pull handle blue faux-suede. It is very hard to keep the nice holes on the handles, cuz the wrap does not cut like a car wrap, it's more complicated. The black wrap was a ****ing pain to install!!! It is very sticky and once it touches a surface, it can't be dragged, it sticks right away. Really hard to pull cuz by pulling you need a grab on the wrap and when you do that pieces of it stick together and it's very very complex to un-stick. Your fingers stick to is and when you try to press somewhere else to remove your fingers, well it stick in that somewhere else. Very bad wrap, but I admit the look and feel is awesome. I had to do many seams, mostly in the lower "pocket" section, but the seams don't show up unless you take time to really look at it, which no one will. I swore hundreds of time trying to install this 3yo South Korean wrap. 2 hands really aren't enough.

And finally I insulated the inner cardboards and inner skins. Used some scrap pieces of under carpet and EZ-Cool. On the doors I cut full 1-piece EZ-Cool.

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[Frank818]

This is what happens when you don't know you have to install a door stopper first.

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My cardboard and handle. I'll see if I can cut the holes on the handles later.

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[Frank818]

http://youtu.be/a0WtiDSBvhA

[Canadian818]

Looks great Frank! What really bugs me is I didn't get that aluminum door panel that you wrapped in carbon fibre, and when I inquired about it I was told it was only on the first few kits and isn't included. Seems to me I'm the only one that didn't get them.

I like how the door pull actually pulls the frame, nice touch.

[Frank818]

Hey there you are Adam.

You got the padded door panels or the cheap thin plastic ones?
You're certainly not the only one without the alu inserts if they were intended only on early kits.


One thing to note on the door clearance, you really don't have a lot of play between the cardboard and side sail! So little in my case that I realize I now have to use countersunk bolts on the door pull (need to countersunk) and same on the alu C-shape cover that goes over the big tube between the seat and door.

[Canadian818]

I just have the thin plastic ones, padded wasn't an option when I got my kit.

[idf]

Looks great Frank! What really bugs me is I didn't get that aluminum door panel that you wrapped in carbon fibre, and when I inquired about it I was told it was only on the first few kits and isn't included. Seems to me I'm the only one that didn't get them.

I like how the door pull actually pulls the frame, nice touch.

I have a set of the aluminum inserts that I did not use. Free to good home.

[Canadian818]

I have a set of the aluminum inserts that I did not use. Free to good home.

I'll PM you, thanks!

[svanlare]

Thanks for all the photos. I've been away from both the blog and the garage for a while (but I did get a weekend in at the race track). Hoping to get the car on the street somewhere this month and then will try to catch up on body work.

[Frank818]

This is how I decided to cut the covers around the striker bracket. Will probably wrap with suede or carpet. I don't have time to think of a better solution, this can be done after inspection anyway.

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Worst... solution... ever!! loll My god damn washer fluid. Which is a must for inspection. It's fully removeable and very clumsy. The nozzle bracket is shaky a little bit, but it's adjustable by bending the alu sheet lolll An FFR scrap cut alu sheet I re-used for this stupid required feature. It fits UNDER the hood and does not wet the hood. My intention is to get rid of this **** after inspection. If I ever get pulled over and for some AWESOME reasons the cop tells me I have no fluid and gives me a ticket (theoretically possible), well god damn I'll re-install it permanently then. But until I pay that ticket, **** that! lolll

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Ha, this one... my sunvisor. Note, not sunvisorS, as only one is required. I think I'm the 1st one to fit this part on the 818, haven't seen one yet neither anyone talking about it. Still got a blurry protective film on it but it's basically a tinted acrylic piece. I had to remove one of the 2 visors (had one black and other orange) and modify the big white clip. It doesn't cover a small, very small portion between the top of the visor and bottom of the top surround edge. Not sure if it's illegal or not. No time to spend more on this. Inspection will tell. After inspection, guess what man, yea I'll remove it! Again if a cop tells me I need a sunvisor and gives me a ticket, same thing, I'll permanently install it back. Until then, guess what: **** that! lolll I got a "car" to build, not something to protect a horizon's sun from. Speaking of which, I'll do the same with the wiper. I changed mind compared of a few months ago.

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About this, well it's challenging. This is my boost controller. It has many features, including controlling boost by RPM or SPEED. This is very valuable for me. I need to keep it, until I find something different for a decent price. But as you can see, there is NO mounting point at all. I tried various ways and they were all too weak. Now I have machined a small angled plate onto which I have glued 3M dual-lock velcro and that bracket will be bolted to the center console, just in front of the shifter. I realized I had to slice off some of the countersunk bolts' heads in order to squeeze them with pliers when I want to unbolt the bracket. If not, there is no way to remove the bracket, as the controller sits on the bolts and there's no clearance for an allen key or any other tool. If I remove the controller by un-velcroing the velcro, the controller is too weak and it could break. How on earth could I end up with such a clumsy solution... oh well, I believe it'll work, I'll know tomorrow early morning after installation.

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[Frank818]

While I'm drinking some Scotch after another hard work on the car, let's see how I can explain my stupid wiper system.

It is stupid cuz there's so little space it rubs on my AWIC water tank. I will have to file down thinner the rectangular link on the motor that swipes along with the round link. Everything it up to 1-2mm!!

My guess is I will pass inspections without the water tank. Which means I will need to drain it, cuz I need to fill it up when I'll test the car on the track and go on the dyno. Maybe I can bypass the tank and connect the in and out hoses together, but we'll see about that.

This is my first wiper test ever! I was afraid something would rub on the windshield or the motor's twisting torque would dismantle everything, as it's not fully fixed in place yet. It still wobbles a little.


http://youtu.be/MNkXgetdXjk

[Frank818]

It turned out like this:


http://youtu.be/3aDvfdCQTmI

I think it will wipe at least "80% of the view angle", which is the rule I need to comply to.

This is a 21" blade, the max I can use on my setup.


You can notice something odd, the wiper arm cannot sit at the very far end of the motor's travel. The motor always stops about 3" before the max the blade can reach. Then when I wipe it goes down 3" and than back up and towards driver's side. This sucks cuz the blade is much more visible like this. I tried manually to stop the blade lower but the motor keeps sitting back too far up. If I adjust the arm lower, it then goes lower than the windshield and it stucks there, I almost broke something during testing.

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Apart from that annoying situation, this is how it wipes the area:

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[Frank818]

Happy Holidays!


Bump steer kit installed.


Bought this:

Speedway Motors
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Precision-Carbon-Steel-LH-Male-Heim-Joint-Rod-Ends-5-8-Inch,29603.html?OriginalQuery=1750316
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Steel-Control-Arm-Spacer-5-8-Inch-x-1-Inch,60123.html?OriginalQuery=91006126
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-Tie-Rod-Adapter-Stud-to-Heim,3333.html?OriginalQuery=91636055 (PINTO VERSION)

Racecraft
http://www.racecraft.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=92_539_540&products_id=1697

Summum Performance (a place 200km from mine! A first to find car parts in Quebec at a great price! Almost impossible but I found those PitStop USA spacers from Allstar)
Allstar Performance Bump Steer Kit
Description: ALL18602 0.030" Bump Steer Spacers
Allstar Performance Bump Steer Kit
Description: ALL18603 0.060" Bump Steer Spacers
Allstar Performance Bump Steer Kit
Description: ALL18604 0.100" Bump Steer Spacers
Allstar Performance Bump Steer Kit
Description: ALL18605 0.200" Bump Steer Spacers
Allstar Performance Bump Steer Kit
Description: ALL18606 0.300" Bump Steer Spacers
Allstar Performance Bump Steer Kit
Description: ALL18607 0.400" Bump Steer Spacers
Allstar Performance Bump Steer Kit
Description: ALL18608 0.500" Bump Steer Spacers


Speedway Motors is AWESOME in terms of shipping! I am in Canada and 24h after BUYING the parts I got them at my door!!! For only less than 40 bucks! Crossing the border, traveling 1350miles, that is something impossible unless you pay 100-150 of shipping. DHL Worldwide Express is an awesome shipping method. It even took longer for the parts from 200km away, no border...

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As you can see the PINTO studs are too wide to fit the 7/16 spindle hole, they jam half way through. I don't think that's a prob on the street, even with a wide washer the top lock nut could bolt through all threads. Barely but it did. Torque to OEM Specs, top and bottom nuts (20lbs). I also put a spacer between the spindle and "hex lip" of the stud so it actually squeezes on the spindle too. The length wasn't the same on both sides, THANKS TO JEFF for convincing me to buy a BUNCH of spacers of any sizes. In the end I have the same spacer length as Jeff, although that's probably not what my car wants, I'll know once I drive, but I got more spacers and plenty of stud length left.

The black sleeve has NOT been bolted on yet, it was just there for the picture for you guys. I'm wiring my headlights, I'm sitting HOURS inside the fender with my back on the spindle, I need the space, the rod cannot be installed yet.

BTW what I did on my headlights KICKS ***!!!!! I LOVE IT!!! It's... it's... for another day. lolll Once all works fine I'll post pix and video. I think I found the EXACT styling I wanted my whole life...

[Frank818]

You won't believe my clearance issues but I had to grind a rotational moving part of the OEM wiper motor, otherwise it was rubbing on my AWIC water tank. Incredible but 1mm makes all the difference here.

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[Frank818]

http://youtu.be/ZfxnMXYaBVQ

Jesus... took countless hours to wire the damn lights. I admit I have more than suggested by FFR and I had a prob with the passenger's LED strip. For some reason it would not return to DRL after triggering a turn signal. It was actually acting erratic in many ways. Hours of testing and swapping LEDs from one side to another I found out it must be defect. So I ordered 2 more (one spare), need to wait 6 weeks of course... But you get the idea!!

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The LED strips give a great aggressive look and follow the lines of the car. The LEDs, all of them, are extremely bright!!! I could probably drive at night without my FFR Hella projectors on (low beams). The color is so great! The round lights (Eagle eyes) with strips give the look I've always been searching for. I wanted that look so bad... so bad. Money and hard work later I finally made it. I don't need to buy a McLaren, a Lambo or something like that, now.

The low beams are aiming very low, if I can't aim them up enough I'll have to tilt down the back of the headlights' buckets. We'll see.

When I 1st tested my high beams last Spring they were slow to react to a high beam flash (using the steering column arm). But this time they are almost as fast as normal lights, if not as fast. Happy with that too.

I'm happy with EVERYTHING about the lights! Apart from the fact sitting inside the fender, my back on the spindle and LCA is pretty hard on the long term, but it was worth it! So happy, can't wait to drive it and show those lights in people's rear view mirror. lolll


Beware for those buying Chinese lights, they usually have VERY VERY VERY thin wires. So thin you almost don't feel them when you touch them, they are very hard to work with and a feather on 2 twisted wires together could make them separate (too much weight). Damn crap. I'm surprised they can handle 9W. The Eagle eyes are 9W each on the white LEDs. I think 6 or 7 on the amber. 27W actually, cuz I soldered 3 Eagle eyes' wires onto one wire from my switchback driver. But no heat.

Other word of caution: for those wanting switchback LEDs behaving exactly like mine (DRLs totally OFF during the turn signal's cycle), you may not be capable without building a driver of finding a positive (not negative) 12V driver. When I ordered 2 more tubes of those I had drivers with long time ago, they came with smaller drivers. I thought it was nice. But then the LEDs wouldn't lit at all. Took a few hours of fiddling around until I questioned the new drivers. I isolated them and they don't light up ONE SINGLE Eagle eye LED!! Unlike my 2013 or 2014 drivers which can take at least 3 Eagle eyes at the same time. I admit I ordered 80cm tubes in 2013 or 2014 and only 45cm this time. Maybe the drivers are different for 45cm.

I'm just crossing fingers this will be reliable. So far no heat after many mins of work time. And I got the look I wanted. :D

[Canadian818]

Looks fantastic Frank! Must be nice to be finishing these last few big projects, thanks again for ordering 2 of everything for me for the bumpsteer parts. What's the next thing your tackling?

[redfogo]

Love the lights they look great! Very awesome job on everything :)

[Frank818]

Yes tnx guy! Doing the build just to get that front look was worth it!

Adam my next and only major tackle left are the front splash guards.
Everything else is just fixing little things around, wrapping, triming and sanding some panels for final installation and installing other little things like carpets and of course reinstalling all my parts but this time for a longer time and for driving. All my parts lay around but they are designed and fitting, I just need to reinstall everything together to make it a car instead of a bunch of parts. loll

[Frank818]

@LongIslandRangersNY (can't recall your name), tnx for showing me the Battery Tender ring terminal connector, I forgot about it and thought I had lost it, but while I was heavily looking through scrap wires in order to find the right gauge and colors for the headlights, I found my Tender ring terminal connector! It's very small, so I like it. I wired it on the battery and will use it to charge the batt without the need to access the posts (not accessible AT ALL with my water tank on top). Only thing is I have to open the hood, but that's ok, I love the look of it and it's cool to open and close. :)

Tnx for the reminder, man!

[Frank818]

And the mirrors are lit up.


http://youtu.be/wW8kmFTnYtI

[STiPWRD]

Frank, great job on the headlights, they look very nice! I'm guessing the hella projectors have those LED bulbs you posted a few months ago? Also, do you have links for the LED strips where you got the switchback drivers from (or is any 80cm strip ok)? Did you do the wiring "on the fly" or make any diagrams by any chance? I'd like to replicate what you did. I'm a bit concerned about the LED strips in the insert since they will be nearly at ground level and see lots of debris and rocks. They look great but do they seem sturdy?

[AZPete]

Frank, nice work on the lights. And, your mirrors, too. I'd like to do the same with the LEDs but I need your help, please. You wrote, "Other word of caution: for those wanting switchback LEDs behaving exactly like mine (DRLs totally OFF during the turn signal's cycle), you may not be capable without building a driver of finding a positive (not negative) 12V driver." What do you mean by building a driver? (I'm an electronic idiot) Any idea where can find a positive 12V driver? Or, what do I google?

[Frank818]

Pete and STI are asking pretty much the same thing, here goes:



I'm guessing the hella projectors have those LED bulbs you posted a few months ago?

Yup! Some 35 bucks a pair 4000lumens 40w bulb each.



Also, do you have links for the LED strips where you got the switchback drivers from (or is any 80cm strip ok)?

It's actually 85cm for the tubes. I don't know if they come with the same drivers I got 2-3y ago, that's the thing. :( I would be in trouble if something breaks cuz I don't know if I can buy replacement parts. BUT! There is an alternative that should well work, although a little more pricey. To me that look is priceless, I'd be ready to invest a lot. More on the alternative below.

The LED strips on the nose insert come with their driver included in the strip itself.



Did you do the wiring "on the fly" or make any diagrams by any chance?

On the fly but I do have a written instruction. I wrote down which wire connects where. But that is specific to my application, so if I change from a color to another along the line for some reason, it means nothing to anyone else. Also I am using Infinity Box, so the colors I start with are certainly different.

That being said, if anyone replicates my setup I'll explain in details what I did and from there one can work out on their own car. It's a very simple installation in terms of diagram's complexity.



I'm a bit concerned about the LED strips in the insert since they will be nearly at ground level and see lots of debris and rocks. They look great but do they seem sturdy?

Totally! They are covered with a translucent rubber on top of the LEDs, I'd bet my ENTIRE CAR that my wrap will get chipped before any of the strip would break due to road debris. The quality to survive debris looks really good.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=122032768478

At 7 bucks each (you can buy just one if you search ebay), considering how bright they are and how nice the amber looks like, plus that they have a switchback embedded, it's a damn bargain.



About the Eagle Eyes, to make them switchback like that the alternative to the LED tube's driver is to buy 1 Oznium driver per Eagle Eye you want to switchback and INVERT the NEGATIVE signal to a POSITIVE signal.

https://www.oznium.com/switchback-driver

This driver works on the negative side, but the Eagle Eyes on the positive. So you need to invert the signal. It's well known and there are a few methods of doing it.
I know Infinity Box sells (pricey!) an inverter. http://shop.infinitybox.com/inVERT-Mini-p/infinvtz.htm

But Frankc5r seems to know how to do it by himself. I'll let him jump in if anyone wants more details.

[Frank818]

While installing my front splash guards (god that is boring) and wiring my headlights, I found out this bent fwd end on the top rad support!

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I have cut some portion of it on the top to clear the rad return hose, it certainly weakened the support but I don't know what happened, what stress, that made that happen. I'll have to weld something in place but it's funny I wired my headlights and my connectors and plugs don't slip through the holes of the support, unless I cut the wires. So I'll have to weld the piece hanging with wires in place.



On the splash guard, the rear guard is made to be installed BEFORE the windshield. Since alone I cannot remove the windshield, I had to cut the panel. Honestly if you don't cut it, it means you install it before the windshield and then if you want to remove the panel, you're screwed, you have to remove the windshield. Once cut it's not that bad, shouldn't cause a problem.

62316


The front guard, new with the new nose, is more complicated to fit, especially with Craig's heat exchanger's brackets, they are exactly in the way! lolll How could he know, he designed before the nose was even built at FFR.

[Frank818]

I love the Holiday season, I can burn 8-10h a day 7days a week on the car and get things moving.

Front pass splash guards installed. The driver's side fits easier, will be done tomorrow.

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There are numerous areas NOT sealed by this design. You can see light on the 2nd pic top left corner, I can still pull out a little the bulb seal but it won't push enough to cover the open area. There are many places between panels where there are gaps, like between the front rear splash guard and 1.5" tube frame or the side sail and tube frame. Little openings where I had to cut for clearance, a huge opening in the center under the A-arm behind the coilover, openings between the inside guards and hood/fenders, under the windshield surround and over the frame, etc. No way this can be tight as a boat, no matter what Bob says he certainly played a lot of magic tricks to make it "water" proof, or he had better fitting than I do.

And no protection on the inside top of fenders, fiberglass exposed totally.


I noticed an important installation problem: for those with the race splitter, there is no way you can bolt it in place without using a rivnut on the back side of the fender support. Once the front splash guard is installed, it is bolted at the bottom using that same bolt that holds both the fender and splitter, close to the wheel. I had to guess that as I didn't see any installation procedure from FFR or someone here on the forum (did I miss them all?). But the race splitter is too far back and too high to reach that bolt, even a kid couldn't. I'll certainly have a pic at some point, I need to order 2x 1/4-20 rivnuts. Also the under rad floor panel will be difficult to install, need to install after the splitter but then the front bolts are very hard to reach, since I have blocked the lower nose opening! Engineering defects... lolll


This is about the distance between the tie-rod and rod ends with the bumpsteer kit. 3.5" sleeves are plenty, although 5.5 should fit as well, maybe 4.5" is the best to thread in as much as possible and still have plenty of adjustment. I won't have a problem with 3.5, though.
Final result looks just great! I like that kit.

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Guys, you got this bulb seal from FFR. not sure if they provide more now, but with the old nose what they provide is JUST enough after switching to the front nose and new guards, IF that makes a difference. According to my calculations, I'll be left with 3-4" of them. Don't waste too many pieces.
I will order some more cuz I have other places to fit them. I did not use any on the 2 IC alu panels (not using the IC), but FFR does. You won't have any left for all alu panels if you do so.

62339

[Hindsight]

Looking good Frank. I had the same issues with my front splash guards. I didn't even use the front pieces of the front splash guards, and plan on only installing the two rear pieces. Without them, you will get a lot of crap kicked up into the cabin which makes a serious mess and stuff gets in your eyes. I know by experience. I have test-fit the rear-most front splashguard panel and it didn't fit, align, or seal properly so I've had to hack it up pretty good, and also extend it a little in certain areas to make it fit right. It still isn't permanently attached but is on my to-do-ASAP list before I destroy my expensive racing seats with road dirt.

[Frank818]

My intention so far is to use some kind of sealer, foam, rubber or other to cover these small areas. Maybe I'll use caulk too, hoping I won't need to remove any of these panels more than once per 2 years. I'll certainly spend many hours trying to improve this, but it's not required for inspection, it's just for me and this is something I am used to see totally sealed on normal cars. Dirt can't reach the battery from the wheel well, can't reach the hood, the rad, the doors, electrical components, etc. Only the shock and suspension/steering elements. I'm not used to something like the 818, this makes it look more like a kit-car, I must admit. But it's fixable with time and patience...

[Frank818]

Driver's side splash guards installed. Better fitment than passenger's, just a little. Took a bit less than 30h for both sides. I had estimated 30h for this task. After almost 3 years I start to get the hang of how long things take! While installing the guards I found out something to give me a better fitment for the hood/fenders. Interesting. Figured out if the rear of the fenders are set higher on the bracket close to the windshield it helps fitting the rear lower section (close to doors) on the side sails and relieves stress on the panels. I am about 5/8 over the bracket. It also increases clearance between hood and windshield for my wiper. Need more tests on this but there is improvement. However it increases non-sealed area between fender and bulb seal, above the side sails, but that's not a problem I'll find a way to block it off.

Anyway, the last thing was built.

Sooo... uh... what now?

I have a very strange feeling right now. I've built everything on the car!
Need to finish carpeting and stuff inside cockpit and wrapping body. Everything else is just troubleshooting or improving solutions/fitments. I've got no more parts to design or build, they have all been installed at least once (some over 100 times loll).

I do have a list of things to fix/improve though. Probably 2 months of work. loll (that's 200h)

Unless something BIG hits me in the face, I'm really in to start registration process some time in April. I can't before, cuz the 1st step is to get a form attesting my parts are NOT stolen. Once I get that form from the police, I have 60 days to pass an inspection test. There is NO way I will pass a test without tuning the engine and driving it on a track. I need to make sure everything holds up. There is NO way it can be driven on a track until late April (depends from year to year, there could be a few days in March). So you see, clock is ticking once I start the process, I need to jump in the right train at the right time. Will give me time to improve the car.


Dec 29, 2016. I've got to remember that date.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Frank,
When we were at the same point as you, we thought we only had some small stuff to do before inspection. That small stuff wasn't as little as we thought. The last 3 days before our schedule inspection were without much sleep.
I suggest you test, test, test. Drive it back and forth in the drive way. Up and down curbs. get it hot.

A fender rub, water, brake fluid, or oil leak can ruin you day.
Congrats of your milestone.
Bob

[Frank818]

Can't agree more, Bob. That's my plan.

[Frank818]

62379

[STiPWRD]

62379
Alcantara?

[Frank818]

Alcantara?

Nope, suede. Have black and blue for the entire cockpit. I always dreamt of having such interior but usually you gotta pay a crap load of money to get a supercar with full suede cockpit. Now I do it myself. :) Tnx to FFR.

[Frank818]

Guys, my hub is squeaking, only this one. Is it a problem?


http://youtu.be/EnEIOYpTzbY

[Frank818]

Even Bob doesn't know about my hub squeak?


For those having the 1st gen splitter and diffuser, you probably noticed the finish is very hazy and foggy. I found out by buffing it with 3M finishing compound (could use something else surely) the finish comes back almost mirror finish. No pic yet though. Very busy interior wrapping day. The only prob with these 1st gen's is they have some defect in the carbon itself (but they were so cheap to buy!). A few rare ones will show up but most of them are are located where the parts fit hidden under the car, thank god.

[svanlare]

Congrats on "finishing". I know that is a VERY lose term at this point, but still, moving from major work to minor work is a big deal, even if the "minor' work is going to keep you busy for a while.

Thanks again for all the photos, the start of my 2017 will be starting in on the body finally. Autocross season starts in March, and I'm planning to haul the car in kart form and start giving it some real shakedown drives.

No idea on the hub squeak. Mine squeaks, but not that loud, wheel bearings is on my check-after-each-drive list and I'm planning to see if it quiets with some use.

[Hindsight]

Even Bob doesn't know about my hub squeak?


For those having the 1st gen splitter and diffuser, you probably noticed the finish is very hazy and foggy. I found out by buffing it with 3M finishing compound (could use something else surely) the finish comes back almost mirror finish. No pic yet though. Very busy interior wrapping day. The only prob with these 1st gen's is they have some defect in the carbon itself (but they were so cheap to buy!). A few rare ones will show up but most of them are are located where the parts fit hidden under the car, thank god.

Funny, I just polished mine (both the gen1 splitter and gen1 side skirts) over the last couple of days. Turned out very well though I notice the same defects in the carbon (stretched wrong, pieces of cloth randomly laying over the top, bubbles in the epoxy, etc). It wouldn't work for a show car but for me on a car that sees plenty of road and track use, its 100% fine. The difference in cost between gen1 and gen2 is better spent elsewhere IMHO.

[Frank818]

Steve let me know if you ever need pix of something very precise.



Funny, I just polished mine (both the gen1 splitter and gen1 side skirts) over the last couple of days. Turned out very well though I notice the same defects in the carbon (stretched wrong, pieces of cloth randomly laying over the top, bubbles in the epoxy, etc). It wouldn't work for a show car but for me on a car that sees plenty of road and track use, its 100% fine. The difference in cost between gen1 and gen2 is better spent elsewhere IMHO.

Exactly. I think it was 200 back then, which is really a great deal. Let's not forget that only a small part of the splitter/diffuser shows up, if that part doesn't have big visual defects, than 200 is a deal. But yeah polishing them really helps. Don't know why I didn't think about it in the last 3 years. I also have some compatible resin for chopped strand matt CF (cheap method) like this so I can fix a few things.

So Jeff, how much fwd your splitter sticks out? 3?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Even Bob doesn't know about my hub squeak?


Funny, I almost responded to your video the other day.
1. Check to see if you have good clearance between the outer edge of the rotor and the caliper.
2. Just a sliver of metal (from drilling a hole) on the brake pad will make that noise. Take the pads out. Touch the with some sand paper, then test again.
Bob

[Hindsight]

So Jeff, how much fwd your splitter sticks out? 3?

Around 3.25" depending on where you measure from.

[Canadian818]

I received my "Frank818 Bumpsteer Kit" today, thanks again Frank! For those who don't know, frank was putting together a kit from various venders south of the border. He very graciously ordered 2 of everything, and shipped me everything I needed. I've been incredibly busy the past few months and it was so nice to not have to hunt down where to buy what, where to save on shipping, and what was needed. He didn't even want a dime from me until it was on it's way, so just one easy transaction.

Just another example of what a great community we have here. Cheers!

[Frank818]

Adam, you got it quickly! Good thing. And tnx a lot for the kind words!


Bob, tnx for the idea, I checked and it makes noise with pads removed, I still think it's related to the bearing seal, cuz the more I torque the axle nut, the more it makes noise. Although after playing with the disc/wheel and sanding the pads, it's a lot better now. I think it's a no issue and won't cause a prob while driving. Tnx Bob!

[Frank818]

I have a car testing dilemma I'd like your opinion on.


I know I need a fuel retune
I know I cannot pass inspection without that tune
I know I need that tune to test the car on a track and dyno
I know I can tune it on a ractrack
I know I can also tune it on a dyno (sort of running in circle here!)
How can I do the tune, then?


And here's where things get more complicated:
I know there is a possibility of leaks (coolant, oïl, mostly coolant) if I drive the car on a track
I know there is a possibility of leaks (coolant, oïl, mostly coolant) if I roll the car on a dyno




What should I do when?


Should I install all body panels but the rear belly pan or there is a possiblity I would need to remove the body panels for some reason, when I'm at the testing phase?
If I don't install the panels, how fast can a go kart drive on a track without causing aerodynamics issues or rocks chipping something?
If I go a on dyno without fixing possible leaks first, I could have to stop after 10mins and tow the car back home without sealing the leak before I get to my tools. Quite a loss of money for towing and unsued paid dyno time.
Same thing could happen on a track and that track is about 45mins from home, if not 1h.




Ok so it seems fixing the leaks BEFORE doing anything else is a must.


Then how can I fix my leaks before I tune the engine?
Drive in the small 200 meters or so parking street in the back of my condo? Can hardly go over 30mph and cannot shift in 3rd unless at very low rpms. Won't get the engine warm enough at Spring's cold temps.




I really don't know how to approach this... what a weird dilemma. loll :)

[Hindsight]

My two cents:

You can drive at any speed at the track if you like. There are a number of track cars that have basically no body work at all. I wouldn't worry about that.

The belly pans are very easily removed so I wouldn't let that be a factor. I wouldn't worry about body panels being in the way of fixing leaks, except for the coolant side-pipes.

Based on my experience I would:
1. With the body off, let the car idle for like 45 minutes. In my experience, most leaks will be discovered this way. The engine and cooling system get pretty warm this way. Not like on the track but enough to show most leaks.
2. Tow it for a dyno tune
3. Put the body on

I would use constant tension spring clamps for the coolant hose couplings on the side pipes.

[Frank818]

Sounds like a good plan, however I always thought letting a car idle for a long period of time isn't good to the engine.

But other than fouling the plugs and burning gas without rolling, I don't think it would harm. If can tune it since on idle the plugs should be ok too and they are the least of my concerns anyway, I got a bunch of them in my garage.

So will do that!

Step #4 will be Driving at a track to troubleshoot driving issues (suspension, brakes, etc.)

[RM1SepEx]

Congrats Frank, can't test enough, I drove short loops for weeks getting the kinks out and actually had a trans failure coming off the lft at the inspection station!

[Frank818]

What failure # was it?
:(

[Speedy G]

Hey Frank,

Best of luck testing and passing inspection! Your thread really has become an awesome source of info for the rest of us. Thanks for doing it the hard way. It's obvioulsy not finished until you post a quarter mile time or a porsche or something Italian in your rear view mirror breathing your burnt rubber, but you're almost there. Congrats man!

Speedy G

[Frank818]

I ordered a cut-off disc for aluminum on Sep 29th, never showed up, guy re-shipped, never showed up, ordered from another seller, never showed up. Over 75% (20+) of my ebay orders since Sep 29 did NOT show up and needed refunds. Boy that's mind-breaking to manage all these refunds and finding alternatives!! At a higher price... I don't know what's going on with ebay deliveries since Sep, never seen that before. Hopefully Amazon doesn't **** me up too, just ordered over 15 items in the past 2 weeks. And Amazon.ca has a LOT less good stuff than Amazon.com which 90% of the time doesn't ship to Canada. Hard to complete the car if I can't get my parts. This is no longer a VR6 turbo build, it's a build made of scrap parts partly designed to meet the requirements. I'll find a way to make it through anyway, nothing will stop me, already said that.

However I decided to spend time in exchange of not having my tool, to cut off aluminum for my last NACA-like duct. Belly pan is now completed.

6276962770



Apart from some carpeting I'm still waiting for and for secondary parts I can pass inspection without them (**** you ebay), the car is done. I have fixed many little things, re-enforced some other things, am powder coating some parts and will soon start wrapping the body panels. I'll take time to trim them better and have a better over all fit. Plus put some sound deadening and a little more heat protection. And there are still a very few things I'm in the process of fixing, little things I'm not fully happy with.

Also I managed to align the damn 1st gen fuel filler neck. With original rubber hose! So I paid 80 bucks US with shipping to get the new rubber hose for nothing. I'll see if I can make it "better" next year as a winter project. There is tension on the neck right now, but maybe 80%. There's still 20% of play left. Should work on the street, the tank and side sail should not move.

[Frank818]

Very close to wrapping the body.

This past week marked the last moment of fixing and improvements (before everything blows up on my next engine start, on the dyno and then at the track loll).

Following BOB's advice, I changed my SS bolts screwed into alu rivnuts, to minimize corrosion risk through time. Using black oxide almost every where. I remember why I used SS bolts, they were for under body panels. Stronger and more corrosion resistant... to the outside, but I didn't know about the damn alu rivnuts. There will still be places where I'll use zinc bolts or SS bolts. After all, zinc bolts are used on alu panels by FFR and ZeroDcb uses steel rivnuts on alu brackets. Besides I cannot roll a tire into water as my rear bearings don't have seals. I think I'll be ok. Worst case, I know how to dismantle the car and I can fix corrosion issues. I will inspect every year.

Besides one part waiting to finish my interior, I'm left with squeezing in some more bulb seal on the splash guards, spraying them with underbody rubberized coat, applying sound and heat insulation to body panels and fitting body panels for an even better gap. Then I wrap.

Ok I still need to improve the potential reliabilty issues of the Eagle Eye LEDs in the headlights. Starting tomorrow morning before going to work.


I also followed BN's advice and strengthen the area where the tow hook pulls (but did it in a more aggressive design). I was too unsure about the strength and I need some kind of bumper to pass inspections. With the addition of 3ft of steel square tubes connecting the middle of the tow hook to the rear of the bottom radiator frame, I'm sure it helps for both pulling and crushing.

63162

[Hindsight]

Looking forward to seeing the wrap.

Wish I could have used the FFR splash guards. They fit very poorly for me so I had to make my own.

[STiPWRD]

Good idea on the tow hook bracing, I'm in the process of doing something very similar.

[Frank818]

Wish I could have used the FFR splash guards. They fit very poorly for me so I had to make my own.

I either got lucky or badly made my measurements and when I'll drive the 265s will rub on hard compression. Hopefully not.



Good idea on the tow hook bracing, I'm in the process of doing something very similar.

Whatcha got in your mind that is similar?

[STiPWRD]

Whatcha got in your mind that is similar?
It'll look similar to what you did - using two angled bars to tie the middle of the lower bar to the back corners. Except I'm attaching the hook slightly more elevated so I don't have to cut a hole in the grill and I'm probably going to make the whole thing removable (bolt-in). It's still in the works, not ready for primetime yet, but the approach is very similar to what you did.

[Frank818]

The bars will be as far back as the rad support goes (almost where the steering rack is)?
How will you make the bars removable?

[STiPWRD]

The bars will be as far back as the rad support goes (almost where the steering rack is)?
How will you make the bars removable?
Right, the brace bars will be as close to the lower rear corners of the front sub-frame or as close to where the sub-frame attaches to the rest of the chassis as I can get them. When adding bracing, it's best to couple the intended load/attachment points as close as possible. To make it removable, I'm just going to weld on some tabs with through holes to the ends of the brace bars. As soon as the weather clears up around here and I get some car time, I'll finish it up.

[RM1SepEx]

Frank, you want triangles, much stiffer, I might add cables, much lighter

[Canadian818]

Frank, did you ever find those perforated base studs in Canada?

[Frank818]

Dan I'm sure you're right, makes sense. My assumption is that those 2 bars are plenty enough to prevent any bending when towing the car, based on its weight (which is NOT 818kgs). I knew there were better ways to make it stronger, you just confirmed it, but my assumption is I don't need the stiffest possible. Let's just hope I'm not wrong here. :) But I'm curious, what would cables be good at to act as a bumper?

STI I'll keep an eye on your thread to see what you come up with, or if you change design and follow Dan's advice.

Adam, no, damn it. :( Couldn't find those perfo studs in Canada. Local stores and what I found on the web is a total no go. You better act quickly to buy any parts from US, soon the border will be closed for us up here. :(

[Frank818]

OMFG!!!!

I finally got my last part (for which I didn't buy enough and need to buy more but the Korean guy is on vacations until 1st which means I'll get it in March but on March 1st I need to start wrapping the body, oh well) and finished my dash.

I am amazed at how it looks. This thing is sitting in my bedroom, damn it. I wanna see it all the time.

This suede wrap is extremely difficult to apply, especially with 2 hands and even worse on a large part. With time I found tricks to handle it. And then I found how to make precise cuts. Very difficult to make them, I don't know if vinyl wire tape for vinyl would work as I didn't get my tape yet, but I found something else and with a lot of careful attention and gentle hand you can make precise cuts, and much more linear. I was able to fix the kit-car-ish look with wavy color splits and made them 90-95% OEM.

Now just wait for the console.


632626326363264

[AZPete]

Wow, Frank, it looks good!

[Aero STI]

I like the way your interior is coming together. Good work!

[BN]

Wooooow I'm jealous

[svanlare]

Nice - Between you and Pete I'm going to have to re-think my interior now.

[Frank818]

Frank, I know you can make your wipers park at the bottom. You have solved many more difficult problems. I mounted the donor wiper mechanism differently than Dan to clear my remote reservoir, but Dan is correct about how it works. At first, I also had the wiper going down before each stroke but moved the short pivot on the wiper motor arm until it worked without the down-up start of each stroke, like Dan said. I took a video but can't figure out how to post it. So, I hope this helps:
634646346563466



That second pic... that told me everything.


Dan and Pete convinced me on the Benz mono-wiper thread that its possible to make the wiper sit at the lowest end of the sweep angle. When I looked at my wiper system I was looking at the flat bar arm of wiper arm, underneath the wiper shaft. It seemed to be pressed in and I thought without a press or something I couldn't get it out and back in.

I never checked at the smaller flat arm connected RIGHT ON the motor shaft. This one has a 17mm hex nut and a crush washer. Hold on very firmly on the flat arm and unbolt the nut. A rubber hammer helps. Then you can easily pull the flat arm, angle it a little different, push it in and bolt the nut back on.

On the pic, the black mark is where the arrow on the flat arm points to. The left red mark is where I need it to point in order to have the wiper as low as possible.

63535


It works! My blade is almost all hidden, now. Maybe I'll keep the unit on after inspection, then.



So Pete yes I have managed to fix much harder issues, but many of them I did with the ideas or help of this forum. This time I was stupid enough not to see that hex nut and try something, so again the forum got me out of my ****. :)


On a different note, I can't buy stuff for a while, maybe a week or a little more, I got a call at 6h40PM from my credit card company asking about a purchase, I said yeah I did that Saturday. Then the nice lady said (in English not French) did you just use your card to set up a Paypal account? I said uhhmmmm... nooo, I didn't do anything with Paypal for a couple of days, do you mean someone used it to set up an account recently? She said yes at 6h30PM (10mins ago! I was watching The Grand Tour, Mike). I said no. So my card is cancelled and have to wait for a new one in the mail, no buys for me for a couple of days and that is really bad I was about to buy more suede for my interior, waiting for the korean guy to come back from vacations (the msg said on Jan31st but he's still out). I guess that'll be more delays.


Lessons learn for everyone especially the beginners:
ANYTHING can and will happen to you during a build, especially a 2-3+ years build. Packages you won't get, others that'll take 3 months, issues processing orders, receiving the wrong item twice from the same seller, fake websites stealing your money, sellers not telling you your item has shipped so you won't be home when it'll arrive, delivery man ringing on the wrong door, delivery truck snapping off an engine belt and skipping a day while you're home waiting for the delivery, carriers delivering on the wrong day, customs holding up your important package for a full audit, filing RMAs 3 times for the same part, stuff you'll buy and turn out you won't need, stuff you'll break and will need to buy again in a hurry, packages delivered to the wrong address, causing more delays for which you bought other stuff as replacements in the meantime and you get your item later but won't use it, cutting adhesive carpet upside-down TWICE scrapping the entire sheet, cutting too short, bending metal at the wrong place requiring to cut and weld, credit card # being cloned, stuff you'll lose, massacre, step on it, crush, drop, explode, burn, mistakenly weld to something else, wear out way too quickly, even swallow god damn it! As a beginner builder you have to be prepared to face these challenges which most of the time make you pay and waste time.

I believe all the above happened to me and I forget a few.

[aquillen]

I've had most of your list happen and that's before I had ever heard of the 818. And yes every beginner
Should expect their share of such misfortunes. Press on and enjoy the ride.

[svanlare]

Be happy they caught it though, but big bummer if it slows you down. I keep thinking if I built it "straight out of the box" i wouldn't have these things come up, but then I read some post and think --- boy the car would be better if I built it that way... and another box is in the mail.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Frank,
I was expecting a erector set when I ordered the 818.
I was wrong. But that was a blessing in disguise. I got to learn with my son: fabrication, suspension set up, project management, hard work, time management, powder coating, engine control, welding, race car setup, and performance driving. ect ect ect

I feel like I am the luckiest man in the world getting to do this with my son.

Now for the down side.
I ran into a few of the same issues as you. broke 2 sets of axle, one transmission (400 autocross launches) one engine, oil starvation.
If I did this project alone, I don't know if I would have the ambition to finish it.
I have some bad news for you Frank. I feel the day you take it on your first test drive, is your 1/2 way point.
Happy building, and don't get frustrated.
Bob

[Frank818]

Actually I kinda find these issues funny in the end. I mean what were the odds that all these things would happen just cuz of one thing or one decision, it's quite impressive. And I just wanted to let those undecided yet or about to build or order that this stuff will happen to you too, just get prepared so you won't get too frustrated when it happens. :)

Dan is one of the unluckiest I've read on this forum. 2 or 3 complete sets of body panels, 7 transmission repairs and probably a lot of leaks too. But his car runs and he's happy. So why wouldn't I.

[ben1272]

You mean 1st go-cart drive is half way or first drive with everything buttoned up is half way.......I hope the former! Otherwise I have 2 years to go in front of me.....

[Frank818]

1st go-kart drive is half way. That's what he told me when I 1st go-karted it on Aug 5th. I hope he didn't change mind, otherwise I still got 3 years ahead....

[Bob_n_Cincy]

You mean 1st go-cart drive is half way or first drive with everything buttoned up is half way.......I hope the former! Otherwise I have 2 years to go in front of me.....

In my case.
Started January of 14
go cart and auto-crossed fall of 14
auto-crossed with most of body summer of 15
Registered in fall of 15.
Drove to high school spring of 16
7 track days in 16. Blown engine and transmission restricted it from being twice this much.
2017 is improvement phase. Have about a month or 2 on the list.

Second 818 this summer if we ever stop working on car one.
Bob

[svanlare]

I'm hoping the first drive is halfway and that includes all the fixes that happen after the first drive.

Started end of March 14
First drive Feb 16
Took it apart, fixed the issues and put it together again...
Second first drive Dec 16

Looking forward to auto crossing (with or without body) this spring

[Frank818]

Steve, I don't want to spoil the moment, but you will probably auto-cross this spring without the body.



My advice to anyone on the body now or will be later in time: make sure you check all edges for voids. It may look beautiful, but then when you sand for a while (applies to non-edges surfaces too) a pinhole starts to show up. Oh check that out, a small hole! You sand more, it gets bigger. Oh damn. And then you can use your finger nail and crack the gel coat. Aawwww crap, I did it again! Sometimes as much as 1" wide (average is 1/4"). Then sanding all the panels is a lengthy process. Something like 30h on the front end, including hood and removing fender seams. Sometimes you gotta apply gel coat 3-4 times until you get the desired shape.

The good news is the gel coat is SO DAMN easy to apply, cure and make the shape you want that you will always end up with what you want. Let's see the positive side of all this.

[svanlare]

I don't doubt that I'll be auto crossing in kart form, but I like to still imagine it is an option to have the body attached :-)

[Hindsight]

Hey Frank, look what I found while I was going through a bunch of old photo albums (and by photo albums, I mean physical photos hahah)

http://i.imgur.com/Xlv2O8nh.jpg

[Frank818]

Holly cow! And I thought my Corrado was old. :) Is that an IC on the right end of the pic? Can't be, the pipes are too small.
So... where's that car now? :)

[Frank818]

Registration process!

I need you guy's ideas on one thing, see below.

I will post on the registration sub-forum once I get EVERYTHING cleared out. Couple of months.
Someone on this forum who has not posted yet but PMed me found the holly graal, the email address to the SAAQ's (DMV-like) engineer who approves the FFR cars and other custom cars. There are good news but little bad ones for me as I did not use the std Subaru stuff.

One of the rules we, in QC, need to comply to is a 3rd brake light that is DOT/SAE approved. I know, the rules are strict here in terms of chassis construction quality and safely functions. No pollution stuff, thank god, but the rest is strict.

It's the DOT/SAE approval that is the prob here. I've searched for 3 years for such 3rd brake light that I could SAFELY install on the 818 AND being SAE approved but I couldn't find one yet (and until today I didn't know if it was required). Most of the time cuz you never see what's on the other side of the light. Many 3rd brakes lights are very deep cuz they extend from the roof back to the rear window (think Subaru wagon here!). That won't fit safely on the 818, we need something compact and not too wide, I've got my exhaust right there. I think 10-12" wide, and not deep.

Anyone of you guys can think of a DOT/SAE approved 3rd brake light that would have these requirements?