Plavan's 818R Build Thread

[C.Plavan]

***I got an email from Dan- My production date moved back :( October 5th.....***

Someone's 818R just got "hot listed" baby! I'm glad I sent in that email when they asked for volunteers. My production date is now Aug 17th 2013.

My 818R is a "Non Donor" build. I'm just piecing it together. I have probably 80% of what I need already.
This car will be campaigned in NASA racing series on the West Coast in the ST? class. It will eventual make it to the WERC endurance series in the ES class.

Chassis
Powder coated
Carbon Fiber Rear Race Spoiler
Carbon Fiber Rear Race Diffuser
Carbon Fiber Race Splitter
*Special request for the additional crossbar like in the Test 818R. ** I don't need no stinking passengers- Its a race car. I'll scare them in their own car at the track if I need to. Update: They would not do it
I may add it myself.

Motor:
AJW Special 2.5L
2013 STI Shortblock
Balanced/Printed
JE Forged Pistons
STI Nitrated Crank
OEM Bearings
ARP Headbolts
Gates Timing Belt Kit
STI Heads (Single AUCS)
Port/Polish
Upgraded 272 Cams
OEM Head gaskets
Killer B Motorsports (Baffle, pick up, Oil pan)
Torque Solutions Air Pump Delete
Cobb V3 Accessport
Cobb SF Short Ram intake
Killer B Holy Header and Up pipe
Stock TD04 for now... (Looking for upgrade suggestions -TD05?)

Trans:
2005 Legacy GT (4.11 FD) X2
Guard Transmission TBD
Clutch Masters FX400 6 Puck with Aluminum Flywheel

Brakes:
Wilwood 12"ers all the way around. Red/Slotted only
Raybestos ST-43 race pads

Wheels:
2 sets of Racing Dynamics 17x8 and 17x9 et40

Extras:
Racetech Halo seat with aluminum mounts.
Fuel Safe Cell (15 or 18 gallon) with external quickfill/dumpcan setup
Airjacks (wish list)


Just cleaning parts/ wire brushing, then painting.
https://c7nrma.bn1.livefilestore.com/y2pFnt9juXDdZBgcnfWMgzeZ_Z-atZ4Kb7pd_kAyzTjtbbAghrUK6Yf3tE7UoKtrR79J7pUQbWH-Jy6SenTBlcIXhD-uOjK2HJTExFgU6_i9gk/2013-08-15T16-29-26_0.jpg
https://pifrdw.bn1.livefilestore.com/y2pY4cmoN_ElG16iKUnGYnpPu284BVftWg8hSjcw-rlgaMGf6wHcuQn7IwWOIcRbvP1YXXt0Whm08-2TO4y1pu579GgdYZHvjHuiZoFe0BgUmM/photo%202.JPG

Putting the Kid to work
http://i.imgur.com/O0990Hf.png (http://imgur.com/O0990Hf)

Clean parts are fast parts- I have been putting the elbow grease into them.
http://i.imgur.com/H3SiLqWh.jpg

[C.Plavan]

Reserved.........

[longislandwrx]

It's cool that you requested the crossbar to be added back. I'm not there yet and still need instructors. Although, it will be an easy addition down the road. Had I been smart, I would have sent FFR the disconnect couplers and just paid the labor to have them weld before it was sent to powder coating.

Looking forward to another nice R build, seems like we have a lot of the same ideas.

[D Clary]

Glad to see another r car. I have a donor car but it seems like I'm using less and less from it. I am a ways from my kit. my date is 9/14 so I have a long time to learn from everyone and clean parts. I am starting with the stock 2.0 until I get it sorted out, then we'll see. I do mostly auto X and track days. When you get yours running let me know if you ever head to thunderhill for testing. would like to see it.

[C.Plavan]

Just got an email from Dan about some of my requests/questions. They will not be adding the cross bar to any cars.....kinda sucks. I would hate to mess up the powder coat.

I have 90% of all the parts ready to go, new Subaru hardware, I'll take some pictures of the parts later today and add them to the reserved posts above. The Legacy GT trans is having the TBD installed right now, and I'm just waiting for them to ship my completed race motor from AJW.

[longislandwrx]

That stinks, I did see someone mod a powder coated cage once, obviously ground off the powder, did the welds, and then recoated by building an insulated box around the joint and a heat gun. you couldn't tell. Not sure about longevity but it was pretty cool.

[C.Plavan]

I guess there is always rollbar padding.... haha

[C.Plavan]

It's coming!
http://i.imgur.com/edQQK7bl.jpg (http://imgur.com/edQQK7b)

[Mechie3]

The moment it first shows up is a bit surreal (at least for me). It's a bit of "this is awesome" and "whoa....it's really here!"

[RM1SepEx]

mod the powder coated chassis, buy a powder kit from eastwood, buy an IR light and you can touch up areas as you wish

[68GT500MAN]

Chad, what is the expected arrival date?
Doug

[wleehendrick]

The moment it first shows up is a bit surreal (at least for me). It's a bit of "this is awesome" and "whoa....it's really here!"

combined with a bit of "what have I gotten myself into"?

[C.Plavan]

Chad, what is the expected arrival date?
Doug

Not sure quite yet. Stewart will pick it up on the 5th I believe.

1. Race motor is waiting in the garage.
2. 5 Speed Legacy GT trans with TSB installed should be finished tomorrow.
3. Tons of NEW suspension parts are waiting to be used
4. I still need to move out the 1972 911 Restoration to my Dad's garage to make room for the 818R.

http://i.imgur.com/jwQBYe0l.jpg (http://imgur.com/jwQBYe0)

[D2W]

Is the blue one a real ST? Either way sweet ride.

[C.Plavan]

Is the blue one a real ST? Either way sweet ride.

Thanks- I wish it was real! I would not be racing it if it was $$$$$$$$$$$ :). It has a lot of the ST parts, but the chassis is a 69 911E. The rear flares were hand made (English Wheel) using ST flares as a template. One notable fact is that Patrick Long (Porsche Factory Driver) has raced it with me a few times in enduros. I'll be racing it at COTA (Austin, Tx) later this month at the SVRA National Championships. I cant wait to drive that Formula 1 track.

[C.Plavan]

I got the call last night from Stewart. I will have it before noon on Sunday!

[longislandwrx]

very nice!

[68GT500MAN]

Are you going to have an unloading party?
Doug

[C.Plavan]

Are you going to have an unloading party?
Doug

Haha- No. Just got another call....now Monday :(

[metros]

I'll be interested to see how that header fits in the 818. I was looking at the same one. Looks like a really high quality piece.

[C.Plavan]

Longisland (Jeff) and I have been working on solutions for the 818R spacers (FF5 says to use stacks of washers which I'm not a fan of) This is what I came up with for the LCA (Aluminum).


Outer
http://i.imgur.com/lIoK1hZl.jpg (http://imgur.com/lIoK1hZ)

Inner
http://i.imgur.com/XsNNsOXl.jpg (http://imgur.com/XsNNsOX)

[C.Plavan]

I have been "Nesting" in the garage. I moved the project 911 to my Dads house. Cleaned everything up, and moved the motor to the engine stand. Tomorrow is the big day.

I removed all the stock header junk and installed the new Group N motor mounts. I'm not sure if I'm going to stick with that stock TD04.... I have never been a Subaru guy before, but I have seen bigger snails in the garden.

http://i.imgur.com/gsFbgfHl.jpg (http://imgur.com/gsFbgfH)
http://i.imgur.com/vNkSswcl.jpg (http://imgur.com/vNkSswc)
http://i.imgur.com/s76WaiLl.jpg (http://imgur.com/s76WaiL)

[longislandwrx]

22554

[C.Plavan]

22554

Hahahahahaha. Good one. T Minus 3 hours.

[C.Plavan]

It's landed. So cool.

I'm going through Box Hell. So far they sent me the wrong shocks (yellow). It came with a Kirkey seat???? I thought it didn't. I'll just sell it if someone wants it.
http://i.imgur.com/BVEg02fl.jpg (http://imgur.com/BVEg02f)

[longislandwrx]

YES! I declined my seat and received a $395 credit. My red shocks just shipped out today.

And don't socks on the jack stands work great?

[RazzBarlow7]

Good times! Congratulations.

[C.Plavan]

YES! I declined my seat and received a $395 credit. My red shocks just shipped out today.

And don't socks on the jack stands work great?

The driver told me about the socks on the jackstands...... I have never thought of that, great idea! I had four crappy thick green socks to get rid of.

My backorder list:
L/R door liner
Assembly manual
Upper Ball Joints
Front #300 springs
Headlight set?
Brake line 8"
818 Carbon Fiber rear diffuser
818 Carbon Fiber race splitter
Large Road Race Spoiler (dropship)
R shorty windshield.

My Racetech halo seat fits. I'll have to mess around with the mounts, but it is doable. I was worried the halo would be too close to the diagonal bar. It fits perfect, but those darn angled bars near the floor are really going to restrict any movement.
http://i.imgur.com/szSEsDKl.jpg (http://imgur.com/szSEsDK)

http://i.imgur.com/C9b5mTpl.jpg (http://imgur.com/C9b5mTp)

I also ordered a few sets of those CAD spacers I made up. I should have them in a couple of weeks. I'll verify fit and share them with any fellow 818R Pioneers. I'll design the upper mount/spacer when I get some time.

[wleehendrick]

Looks great!


The driver told me about the socks on the jackstands...... I have never thought of that, great idea! I had four crappy thick green socks to get rid of.

Awesome tip... we just moved and my wife was *****ing at me for holding on to some thick old wool socks, instead of donating them. Now I'll rub it in her face for finding a use for them!

[longislandwrx]

The halo on that seat looks perfect. The fronts should be 500lb, so when you call about your red shocks mention that to them. Your rears are probably wrong too, (should be 300lbs)

I think the spacers you ordered will be fine, I posted an image on my build thread.

[RM1SepEx]

Those angled bars do suck, don't they? The seat just fits with almost no adjustment range

[C.Plavan]

Those angled bars do suck, don't they? The seat just fits with almost no adjustment range

Yes they do- I may be cutting out the drivers side and welding in a new brace that does not get in the way. I wont know until I get the pedals/steering wheel in.

[C.Plavan]

The halo on that seat looks perfect. The fronts should be 500lb, so when you call about your red shocks mention that to them. Your rears are probably wrong too, (should be 300lbs)

I think the spacers you ordered will be fine, I posted an image on my build thread.

You are right- I was just typing too fast to get back in the garage. I have the 500lb fronts- waiting for the 300lb rear springs.

[wallace18]

Yes they do- I may be cutting out the drivers side and welding in a new brace that does not get in the way. I wont know until I get the pedals/steering wheel in.

When I was picking up my 818S in August one of the FFR guys ( no name to be mentioned) told me it was OK to get rid of those bars in front of the seat. I made the comment that it impeded much forward and aft movement. So take this as you want. I don't need them removed for me but, I may for a customer car if needed.

[fateo66]

Just out of curiosity, why go threw all the headache of designing and paying for the spacers as opposed to getting new transverse links to give you the offset you need? If you didn't want to pay for aftermarket ones the stock Forester links have the correct geometry.

http://i.imgur.com/wKra26dh.jpg

[longislandwrx]

Does that really give you an additional 7/8" of height?


I thought the forester ones gave you like 7/16s tops.

[taco20]

It's landed. So cool.

I'm going through Box Hell. So far they sent me the wrong shocks (yellow). It came with a Kirkey seat???? I thought it didn't. I'll just sell it if someone wants it.
http://i.imgur.com/BVEg02fl.jpg (http://imgur.com/BVEg02f)

Hey I would be interested in the seat. What size seat is it? What are you looking to get for it?

[C.Plavan]

Just out of curiosity, why go threw all the headache of designing and paying for the spacers as opposed to getting new transverse links to give you the offset you need? If you didn't want to pay for aftermarket ones the stock Forester links have the correct geometry.

http://i.imgur.com/wKra26dh.jpg

It's not the correct geometry for "R" height. If you raise the LCA's ~1", you need to raise everything ~1"- The UCA need to go up above the mounts now too. So those mounts you have pictured in no way will work for the "R" suspension height. That's why we have to make pieces/spacers out of Aluminum. Plus those are ~$325

[fateo66]

In this picture the I have my LCA in the "R" holes because of the better roll center. I have a handfull of different transverse links and tried every combo possible including mounting the links on top of the chassis mounts and in the end this setup worked the best. Which is why I took the picture without the rear stud bolted in, to show that they were aligned.

One thing to consider is suspension bind, I see all the time people talking about ways to increase caster but don't take into account how it puts pressure on the front bushing. I'm not sure how much the Forrester/ ALK/ PSRS kits offset from the factory WRX/STI but in order to say that the rear needs to be lifted 1" would imply that the front and rear are perfectly lined up and I'm not so confident that they are. FFR designed an built a incredible car but they did over look a few things and some times there calculations are not right IMO. The steering rack in not in the correct location, FFR says to cut 1.1" off the left upper arm but I calculated .222" off the right and .513" off the left in order to make the arm symmetrically adjustable. They use 3/8" sway bar endlinks in a 10m hole and the gas tank is a horrible design for any racing but in a straight line. I'm not complaining here I'm just saying some things need to be taken with a grain of salt and you might want to double check a few things.



The Perrin ones are $325 but stock Forrester links have the exact same offset and can be had for nearly free.

[C.Plavan]

In this picture the I have my LCA in the "R" holes because of the better roll center. I have a handfull of different transverse links and tried every combo possible including mounting the links on top of the chassis mounts and in the end this setup worked the best. Which is why I took the picture without the rear stud bolted in, to show that they were aligned.

One thing to consider is suspension bind, I see all the time people talking about ways to increase caster but don't take into account how it puts pressure on the front bushing. I'm not sure how much the Forrester/ ALK/ PSRS kits offset from the factory WRX/STI but in order to say that the rear needs to be lifted 1" would imply that the front and rear are perfectly lined up and I'm not so confident that they are. FFR designed an built a incredible car but they did over look a few things and some times there calculations are not right IMO. The steering rack in not in the correct location, FFR says to cut 1.1" off the left upper arm but I calculated .222" off the right and .513" off the left in order to make the arm symmetrically adjustable. They use 3/8" sway bar endlinks in a 10m hole and the gas tank is a horrible design for any racing but in a straight line. I'm not complaining here I'm just saying some things need to be taken with a grain of salt and you might want to double check a few things.



The Perrin ones are $325 but stock Forrester links have the exact same offset and can be had for nearly free.

I hear ya. They must be doing something right with the lap times the 818R is posting back East. I agree, it may not be perfect, but we are all learning about this great car.

[C.Plavan]

Busted out the grinder. The aluminum LCA rub on the frame up front in the R position.

Rub a dub dub-
http://i.imgur.com/XAXMl0Xl.jpg (http://imgur.com/XAXMl0X)
http://i.imgur.com/UrZgyhWl.jpg (http://imgur.com/UrZgyhW)

Before grinding-
http://i.imgur.com/vzM3ybpl.jpg (http://imgur.com/vzM3ybp)

After:
http://i.imgur.com/bce0Vy6l.jpg (http://imgur.com/bce0Vy6)

And while you are there, grind the driver side rear bolt down on the LCA- It hits the firewall.
http://i.imgur.com/i5F6Erml.jpg (http://imgur.com/i5F6Erm)

[C.Plavan]

Just a little update. Its starting to look a little STI Cherry Blossom on the rear.... The color is not as bad as I thought, but the spherical bearings are soooooo smooth!

Front firewall is all done except for caulking. I was able to cancel my CNC order for the "R" track height spacers until we get concrete numbers from FFR. Then I need to make the UCA spacer.... All the brackets/hinges/etc.(Bare Steel) are at the powder coaters getting hit with gloss black (22 or so pieces). I'm also waiting for some Hardware (My own order) from McMaster-Carr.
The carbon fiber diffuser is coming. No rear wing or front splitter yet.

Has anyone else had to rat tail file the heck out of the spacers on the rear suspension to get them to fit over the bolts? What a pain in the Arse.

I think I narrowed down the wheels I want- I'm sticking with 17's since race rubber is generally cheaper in that size. Stay tuned. I wont be working on it much the next 2 weeks.

http://i.imgur.com/4OoL4HPl.jpg (http://imgur.com/4OoL4HP)

http://i.imgur.com/V6awC8hl.jpg (http://imgur.com/V6awC8h)

http://i.imgur.com/u9i8JD6l.jpg (http://imgur.com/u9i8JD6)

http://i.imgur.com/xK57nqpl.jpg (http://imgur.com/xK57nqp)
How are we supposed to adjust the rear at track height? The OEM stuff does not engage.

[wallace18]

Looks good. Don't you want to use the adjustable lowers in the rear for toe adjustment? They should have came with the kit.

[longislandwrx]

The pink looks sharp.

I'm almost to the point of building at street height until FFR gets this all sorted out.

[C.Plavan]

Looks good. Don't you want to use the adjustable lowers in the rear for toe adjustment? They should have came with the kit.

I think those only went to the guys who had the early chassis. There was a problem with the adjustment. Nothing on my box list for those.

[C.Plavan]

The pink looks sharp.

I'm almost to the point of building at street height until FFR gets this all sorted out.

Trust me I know. I wish Bob would update his post with what he is doing on his R. Or at least FFR take some pictures of their R for us.

[Mechie3]

I made my own bolt spacers. The FFR one's were saw cut. They're good quality for a saw cut, but do require some deburring to work well. Thus, I made my own.

[AJW Performance]

Looking good Chad

[wallace18]

I think those only went to the guys who had the early chassis. There was a problem with the adjustment. Nothing on my box list for those.
If you end up needing a pair I have 2 extra I can sell at a good price.

[C.Plavan]

Wallace- You have a PM.

I mocked up the UCA's using washers for the R height. Three bolt location took 10 regular washers and a skinny one, the other mount only took 10. I measured the mount, and it was welded a little off (heat warp). I put the skinny washer on top of the problem mount to square the UCA's up.
I plan on making better CNC mounts for the Uppers, but it is not as critical as the LCA's- I sent a message to Jim to see if we could clarify the dimensions of the LCA spacers for R height. Jeff (Longisland) and I have been getting different sets of numbers.


My Ball Joints should be here soon, then I need the correct shocks to be sent to me. I also ordered a bump steer kit.

Quick question for you guys that received the wrong shocks- Do you have to return the ones you have before FFR send the correct ones? I hope not, I'm on the opposite coast.

http://i.imgur.com/QedVhvwl.jpg (http://imgur.com/QedVhvw)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Wallace- You have a PM.

I mocked up the UCA's using washers for the R height. Three bolt location took 10 regular washers and a skinny one, the other mount only took 10. I measured the mount, and it was welded a little off (heat warp). I put the skinny washer on top of the problem mount to square the UCA's up.
I plan on making better CNC mounts for the Uppers, but it is not as critical as the LCA's- I sent a message to Jim to see if we could clarify the dimensions of the LCA spacers for R height. Jeff (Longisland) and I have been getting different sets of numbers.




My Ball Joints should be here soon, then I need the correct shocks to be sent to me. I also ordered a bump steer kit.

Quick question for you guys that received the wrong shocks- Do you have to return the ones you have before FFR send the correct ones? I hope not, I'm on the opposite coast.

http://i.imgur.com/QedVhvwl.jpg (http://imgur.com/QedVhvw)

Just to let you know you won't get away with anything on this forum.
In the picture above, the long turnbuckle goes in the front of the car.
Have a good day
Bob

[C.Plavan]

Just to let you know you won't get away with anything on this forum.
In the picture above, the long turnbuckle goes in the front of the car.
Have a good day
Bob

I wish I had an Assembly Manual.... It was on backorder....LOL. I should have it soon. Thanks Bob-

[C.Plavan]

I had a "Kitchen Project" just show up. Best looking carbon fiber I have ever seen.
http://i.imgur.com/gGEhzVhl.jpg (http://imgur.com/gGEhzVh)

[Santiago]

Is there a "Patio Project" on the way in the form of a carbon diffuser? I'm on the fence about whether or not to order one or make my own. Haven't seen a decent image of it yet.

[C.Plavan]

Is there a "Patio Project" on the way in the form of a carbon diffuser? I'm on the fence about whether or not to order one or make my own. Haven't seen a decent image of it yet.

I should have it on Tuesday- But I will be out a town for awhile. I'll take pictures as soon as I can.

I planned on making a template of the Front Splitter once I receive that one. I know I will need extras at some point.

[RM1SepEx]

they sent out my new shocks and emailed a return authorization the same day. I prepped them for shipment and did the exchange on the fly. You don't need to send your's back first.

[Mechie3]

I ordered the CF bits too but don't have mine yet. The last form they sent me showed they were shipped and not on back order. I asked them to make sure it showed properly in their system since I'd really like to get them. :D. Post pics when they arrive!!

[RM1SepEx]

I wish I had an Assembly Manual.... It was on backorder....LOL. I should have it soon. Thanks Bob-

they sent me two for my "S" ... you can access it online!

[C.Plavan]

Yep- Downloaded it last night.

[longislandwrx]

Spoiler looks great with your Louis. Is that the hush money for the 818? LOL.

[RM1SepEx]

I ordered the CF bits too but don't have mine yet. The last form they sent me showed they were shipped and not on back order. I asked them to make sure it showed properly in their system since I'd really like to get them. :D. Post pics when they arrive!!

I'll have to follow up on my CF pieces then!

[Wayne Presley]

Is that a GTC 200 wing next to your Louis Viton purse? :cool:

[C.Plavan]

Is that a GTC 200 wing next to your Louis Viton purse? :cool:

I can't remember who said it on this forum before, but it's "Revenge Spending" by my newlywed wife of 3 weeks.....

And it's a GTC-300 wing ;)

[longislandwrx]

http://i.imgur.com/xK57nqpl.jpg (http://imgur.com/xK57nqp)
How are we supposed to adjust the rear at track height? The OEM stuff does not engage.

There's going to be a group by soon on the msi billet lateral links. Thinking about picking up a set, if I could find someone to go halves on them. :D



Also my rubbing was pretty bad too, I took the casting marks off, and it was still tight. I'll have to take a little more material off, what a pain.

22800

[Wayne Presley]

The 818R's were made to use the FFR track lateral and toe links with the rod ends for adjustment

[longislandwrx]

The 818R's were made to use the FFR track lateral and toe links with the rod ends for adjustment

Thanks Wayne, I didn't know this, I wonder why it was not included, caveat emptor I guess. I figured the modifications made to the frame in terms of the camber bolt placement would carry over to the R ride height as well.

I will contact them and see if one can be sent to me.

[Wayne Presley]

The lateral link from the donor can be used but you will need an adjustable toe link.

[RM1SepEx]

I have an extra pair of the adjustable lateral links... FFR supplied set, I already had purchased adjustable lateral links with rod ends as my originals were bent. PM me if you are interested

[longislandwrx]

Here's what Joe from FFR says:

From your picture your still in the low ride height spot, which will not work with factory arms. We added frame provisions for a lower ride height, but the single donor capable height is the same on the R and S

Joe S

[C.Plavan]

Here's what Joe from FFR says:

From your picture your still in the low ride height spot, which will not work with factory arms. We added frame provisions for a lower ride height, but the single donor capable height is the same on the R and S

Joe S

I bought the Rear Adjustable toe links from Wallace- but I'm STILL waiting on the "correct" track height spacer measurements.

[C.Plavan]

I finally got some time today to work on it for a few hours. I got a lot of the front mocked up (minus the rear spacers)- I may just use washers as a temporary fix until I can CNC spacer blocks. I was told I would get a definite answer next week.
Sometime this week I will go through the front and torque everything down to the correct specs and paint mark them.

I added a bump steer kit that I will have to play with when I align it (track height). I did some more grinding, and may even need to do more on the LCA's. The Wilwood brakes/rotors will go on tomorrow, and maybe I can start prepping the Aluminum radiator and fan pack to go in. I have a 2007 steering rack, and I don't think I have the issues some of you guys were having. I could be wrong, but it looks even to me- I'll look more closely tomorrow. I also need to cover up the ABS sensor holes.

For the most part- I'm having fun building my "Lego" race car. When you have time to sit down and do it, and are not waiting for backordered/correct parts, it goes by quickly. One thing I'm finding out, is be prepared to improvise.

http://i.imgur.com/tztgHaNl.jpg (http://imgur.com/tztgHaN)
http://i.imgur.com/kqkTpFol.jpg (http://imgur.com/kqkTpFo)
http://i.imgur.com/XjIYupfl.jpg (http://imgur.com/XjIYupf)

[Mechie3]

I like those tie rod ends. Are they aluminum?

[Xusia]

And where did you get them?

[wallace18]

You have the right attitude. Your build is coming along very nice. Good Work!

[longislandwrx]

Looks good, did the M16s fit? I think those tie rod ends are just new and blingy. I think I am going to order that bump kit as it looks like a great fit.

I also ordered my radiator, I ordered a GC radiator so the hose would be offset, I'll test the fan fitment when it comes. If it wont work I'll just get the mishimoto fan.

Keep up the good work.

Hopefully I'll have my shifter mounted, and my footwell sheetmetal templated this weekend and I can send you the patterns.

[C.Plavan]

The bump steer kit is from Baer. I bought it through Summit. Yes, it's aluminum and blingy :)

Jeff- yes, those are M16's in the upper hole. They fit perfect after some tapping with a rubber mallet. The bracket welds can make it difficult.

I'll also add another tip in addition to being able to improvise- do yourself a favor and buy a ton of metric hardware, then buy more. I bought a ton (McMaster-Carr is your friend- and have a great IPAD app for ordering). I'm using it all over. I don't like the fact they mix SAE and metric fasteners. It should all be metric, and I hope they consider that in the future. I only use SAE where I have to. There is nothing worse than grabbing the wrong wrenches at the track when you are in a hurry. Not to mention my track tools/crash box is all metric- haha.

[C.Plavan]

The front Wilwoods are on. All shimmed/torqued and ready to go. Now if my wheels would only show up.

http://i.imgur.com/Ztqh55gl.jpg (http://imgur.com/Ztqh55g)
http://i.imgur.com/utQpJRIl.jpg (http://imgur.com/utQpJRI)

Now its time to clean the garage/tools up. Not sure what I'm going to finish next.

[Frank818]

Beautiful brakes... really.

[C.Plavan]

Anyone have the Torque Specs for the actual Upper ball joint? They don't list it in the manual. They do list the upper ball joint bracket.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Anyone have the Torque Specs for the actual Upper ball joint? They don't list it in the manual. They do list the upper ball joint bracket.

Hi Chad
The top ball joint on the 818 looks like the same as the lower joint of the 33 Hot Rod.
Someone else will have to verify this.
On page 48 of the hot rod manual "Front lower ball joint to spindle" is 80-120 Lbft.
On page 46 is says 125 ft-lbs.

Bob

[C.Plavan]

Thanks Bob. I'll look at the manufactures website to check. I found the ball joint box.

[DruOdil]

The bump steer kit is from Baer. I bought it through Summit. Yes, it's aluminum and blingy :)

Jeff- yes, those are M16's in the upper hole. They fit perfect after some tapping with a rubber mallet. The bracket welds can make it difficult.

I'll also add another tip in addition to being able to improvise- do yourself a favor and buy a ton of metric hardware, then buy more. I bought a ton (McMaster-Carr is your friend- and have a great IPAD app for ordering). I'm using it all over. I don't like the fact they mix SAE and metric fasteners. It should all be metric, and I hope they consider that in the future. I only use SAE where I have to. There is nothing worse than grabbing the wrong wrenches at the track when you are in a hurry. Not to mention my track tools/crash box is all metric- haha.

I looked on Summit for the bump steer kit. It said it was for 2002 to 2005 WRX. I have a 2006 WRX donor is there any reason they wouldn't work?
Thank you, Dru

[Wayne Presley]

100 lbs is plenty, the tapered seat of the spindle adapter and ball joint virtually becomes one part at that torque and the castle nut and cotter pin locks the two together. Make sure you align the pin hole before tightening, otherwise you have to pull them apart and that's not fun...

[C.Plavan]

100 lbs is plenty, the tapered seat of the spindle adapter and ball joint virtually becomes one part at that torque and the castle nut and cotter pin locks the two together. Make sure you align the pin hole before tightening, otherwise you have to pull them apart and that's not fun...

Thanks Wayne. That's what I was worried about.

[C.Plavan]

I looked on Summit for the bump steer kit. It said it was for 2002 to 2005 WRX. I have a 2006 WRX donor is there any reason they wouldn't work?
Thank you, Dru

I believe my front spindles (98% sure) are from a 2006 (Non donor build here). I was worried when I ordered it. I have not torqued down the tie rods to final spec, but it looks like it should work fine.

[longislandwrx]

Chad, what spindles are you using? Bolt in hubs/bearings?

[C.Plavan]

Nope- They are just the press in bearings. I pressed new OEM bearings in all 4 corners (actually 6........ forgot the rear caliper backing plates the first press.....lol)

FYI- Great tool for rat tailing the spacers out that FFR sends you. You will find that a lot will not fit over the bolts. You need to file them. Grab a couple of these and attach them to your drill. They also make a Sawzall attachment, but it is not really needed.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CNG80A/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[wleehendrick]

FYI- Great tool for rat tailing the spacers out that FFR sends you. You will find that a lot will not fit over the bolts. You need to file them. Grab a couple of these and attach them to your drill.

I just de-burred everything this weekend and now you're telling me I have to go back and open them up?!? Seriously, though, thanks for the tip; just added it to my Amazon cart.

[C.Plavan]

I just de-burred everything this weekend and now you're telling me I have to go back and open them up?!? Seriously, though, thanks for the tip; just added it to my Amazon cart.

Haha- Sorry! About 40% of my spacers did not slide over the respective bolt. PITA with a manual Rat Tail File. This thing is the bomb.

[C.Plavan]

More progress- Mocked up the front radiator- now I know what you guys are saying about the bottom radiator outlet interfering with the steering rack boot. I'll look again at build threads, and raise the radiator up.

http://i.imgur.com/jFpyPTrl.jpg (http://imgur.com/jFpyPTr)

http://i.imgur.com/bK0bSvLl.jpg (http://imgur.com/bK0bSvL)

http://i.imgur.com/ZAL9kkil.jpg (http://imgur.com/ZAL9kki)

[C.Plavan]

Edited due to vendor policy.

Wheels, Wheels, Wheels- Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2's- If they can take the abuse from the Bristish Touring Car Championship, they can handle anything I can throw at them.

I'm going 17x8 front ~19 pounds (et+40, 5x100, 56.1 hub bore) and 17x9 (et+40, 5x100, 56.1 hub bore) ~20 pounds both Matt black.

The only bad thing is that it will be 6-8 weeks for delivery (They have to be made-Europe). I'm ok with the wait because I have experience with these wheels on the track. They are tough, unlike other brands I would never track.

http://www.teamilluminata.com/Shop/TeamDynamics/PR12black.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img407/3661/ft86pr12blackshop.jpg
http://www.focusst.org/forum/attachments/focus-st-wheels-tires/6386d1364225208-team-dynamics-1-2-pro-race-installed-imag0549.jpg

[David Hodgkins]

Chad, group buys are reserved for supporting vendors... Maybe you can give Wayne Presley or another vendor a call?

:)

[C.Plavan]

Chad, group buys are reserved for supporting vendors... Maybe you can give Wayne Presley or another vendor a call?

:)

Opps Sorry!

[Wayne Presley]

I have a set of those wheels for the Lotus. nice wheels

[David Hodgkins]

Oops Sorry!

No worries Chad; I've let it go before on an item that no vendors were selling. But if one of our own vendors can facilitate it we should give them the opportunity...

:)

[DruOdil]

Chad, on your steering rack did you just plug the other 4 holes? I can see the 2 that you connect together to equalize pressure. The instructions don't address it.
Thank you, Dru

[C.Plavan]

Chad, on your steering rack did you just plug the other 4 holes? I can see the 2 that you connect together to equalize pressure. The instructions don't address it.
Thank you, Dru

Hey Dru,

Yes, I just used clear silicon to plug the other holes. Just clean them with some brake cleaner before so the silicon sticks good.

I think Wayne did some great videos on the GRM car that explains a lot of stuff missing from the manual.

[FFRSpec72]

So just catching up as I prepare for a R build. This whole control arm spacer seems to be poorly designed, why wasn't there just a R mount at the right height?

[C.Plavan]

So just catching up as I prepare for a R build. This whole control arm spacer seems to be poorly designed, why wasn't there just a R mount at the right height?

No sure why- but they are trying to make as many 818 frames as fast as they can I imagine.

This is what I just got back from Jim at FFR- All future 818R builders use this as a good reference.

"Chad,

Sorry for the delay here.
The low ride height is something we designed into the chassis to allow for building a dedicated track car only that you are willing to compromise any street use as well as things like trailer and lift access. The standard donor package still assumes the higher ride height so there is some sourcing of parts needed to do the low ride height.

What you need if you want to run the lower ride height (not recommended for street use) This ride height is also only set up for Sedan control arms.

Move the upper control arm to the top of the chassis and put 4 .815 spacers in the old arm mounting locations to strengthen the new mounting location. Longer bolts will be needed to mount the arms on the top.
Mount the front lower control arms in the upper set of holes on the front mounts.
For the rear bushing mount on the control arm the inner mount bolt should be spaced up by .875 and the outer bolt should be mounted on top of the plate with a .400 spacer as a starting point. The height of the rear mount can be raised if you would like to dial anti-dive into the chassis as a tuning tool.
Running the low ride height requires the use of a bumpsteer kit because the steering rack stays in the same chassis location. We used the Baer kit but drilled out the spindles and replaced the tapered shaft with a longer bolt for more adjustment.

In the rear the low ride height mounts will only work with adjustable control arms. The easiest and intended set-up is to use 13 inch long swaged tubes with 3/4 shank rod ends that have 5/8 holes. We then drilled the rear spindles out just a hair to allow us to use the standard size rod ends and a 5/8 cross bolt.

Hopefully that gets you started in the right direction, there is lots of adjustment that can be done and when you are ready I can also give you our baseline setting to start out from if that helps.

Jim"


As you can see, we have gotten a lot of different numbers for the LCA spacers- Now 7/8" (.875) inner and 13/32 (.4063) outer. That outer one has been changing a lot (he does says its a start at .400)- but we have gotten 11/16th (.6875), and 9/16th (.5625). I want to know what is exactly on the FFR 818R? Is it (.4063)?

I may CNC the outer spacer block to .400 then add shims, or just do a .5 block.

This is where I over think things.

[longislandwrx]

Awesome, sounds like an answer that was thought through. I think these numbers sound accurate and a good place to start.

[C.Plavan]

Awesome, sounds like an answer that was thought through. I think these numbers sound accurate and a good place to start.

I'll order up 10 sets each of outer and inner blocks. it will be raw 6061 aluminum (enough for 5- 818R's) I'll make them in the measurements Jim provided. We could use 1 or 2 fender washers as shims if needed (keeps cost down).

[C.Plavan]

All ordered- I'll have them in about 8 business days

Outer:
http://i.imgur.com/FL9IyVDl.jpg (http://imgur.com/FL9IyVD)

Inner:
http://i.imgur.com/jPEQjt5l.jpg (http://imgur.com/jPEQjt5)

[C.Plavan]

Well- I officially have a "Roller" (If I had wheels...lol). It looks like I'm going to have to buy some junk wheels if my race wheels do not show up in time. Motor/trans are going in next.

FYI- Installing the rear Wilwoods is not as simple as bolting on. There is a little careful grinding and drilling involved. The fronts were a piece of cake compared to the rears.

http://i.imgur.com/UZCz3kJl.jpg (http://imgur.com/UZCz3kJ)

http://i.imgur.com/H0XuoV3l.jpg (http://imgur.com/H0XuoV3)

[Scargo]

I'll be racing it at COTA (Austin, Tx) later this month at the SVRA National Championships. I cant wait to drive that Formula 1 track.
New to the forum and looking forward to building an 818. I was born near COTA. Now, in CT, I hope to get on it myself one day. Back in the day, I raced on Texas World Speedway.

[JeromeS13]

New to the forum and looking forward to building an 818. I was born near COTA. Now, in CT, I hope to get on it myself one day. Back in the day, I raced on Texas World Speedway.

Welcome, Glyn!

[longislandwrx]

Looks great, I was scared to put that shock brace on, the edges are so sharp I was worried someone would lose an arm. I'll wait until the very last minute.

I also went to harbor freight and got a few packs of their earth magnets and used them to install the under battery, belly pan and a few more panels to keep them in position and out of the way until I am ready to install.

[C.Plavan]

Here are some pictures from COTA a few weeks ago. I had the National Championship in the bag until I lost 3rd gear in the 1.5 hour enduro :( . The enduro was BEFORE my final race.... and in the rain... I didn't like that, and I proved to be right. There is always next year. I got down to a 2:32- but I had another 2 seconds in me. (2.5L motor spitting out 211 RWHP)

http://i.imgur.com/N5XotMnl.jpg (http://imgur.com/N5XotMn)
http://i.imgur.com/NBwznmVl.jpg (http://imgur.com/NBwznmV)
http://i.imgur.com/R3VTAnAl.jpg (http://imgur.com/R3VTAnA)

[Frank818]

Were you on 2 wheels? The picture isn't clear due to the shadow.

[C.Plavan]

Usually only on 3 wheels, but I have been known to get on two :) The spectators love it. Ironically, it handles better that way for me.

http://i.imgur.com/KZaNXwAl.jpg (http://imgur.com/KZaNXwA)

[longislandwrx]

My Aunt had a Riviera/Mexico/ Blue? 944 back in the day. Love light blue Porsches.

[Frank818]

Ha, that one's clearer! :)
Probably on 2 wheels cuz the suspension travel is really small too. But still must be fun. :) And less tire wear! lolll

[C.Plavan]

Threw the Clutch Masters Aluminum Flywheel on last night and torqued everything down. I plan on installing the clutch/pressure plate today sometime (CM FX-400 6 puck). Hopefully I will have time to put the motor/trans in car later today- if not Friday. Darn work gets in the way.
http://i.imgur.com/pZQD5Etl.jpg (http://imgur.com/pZQD5Et)

[Mechie3]

Do you have an 06 motor?

[C.Plavan]

It's a Frankenstein 2.5L motor from AJW- Everything is 06/07 except new case etc. My trans is a Legacy GT- matched up the clutch/flywheel to the trans

FYI- Picked up two used harnesses for an 06- The engine area one with box and under dash one. I will be using your awesome guide to trim crap out. Thanks again for putting that together.

[Mechie3]

If its an 06 that big valve on the back can be removed (both of them). If its an 07, there is 1 valve (iirc) that can be removed except you need to retain the sensor on the top (cut it off valve body).

[C.Plavan]

If its an 06 that big valve on the back can be removed (both of them). If its an 07, there is 1 valve (iirc) that can be removed except you need to retain the sensor on the top (cut it off valve body).

Thanks- I have a lot of questions on what can be removed. I figured I would leave it to the guys like yourself who really know about these motors.

[longislandwrx]

Chad Just send that out to NY. I'll have it trimmed down lean and mean in no time. no guaranty on the mileage when it comes back though. ;)

[C.Plavan]

Chad Just send that out to NY. I'll have it trimmed down lean and mean in no time. no guaranty on the mileage when it comes back though. ;)

I'll pay you to have it done by 2014! Haha

Guess what?....
The motor/tranny is IN! I called my Dad to come over to help guide it in, by the time he got there (15 min) it was already in. So easy.

[C.Plavan]

Just a picture of it in..... Now time to clean the garage, then start going at it again.
http://i.imgur.com/IlZuEcEl.jpg (http://imgur.com/IlZuEcE)


Hmmmm what next? I need to find outer CV's that fit, then I can remove the 4 wheel drive stuff. I am going to cut out the "Seat limiter bar", then maybe start doing some of the interior..... Not looking forward to wiring.

[Santiago]

Chad, I thought the official word from FFR was that they recommended against cutting out the seat bar due to an important structural role they feel it plays. Are you planning on a different brace/support that will suit your seat placement, or are you just leaving it out altogether?

Best,
-john

[C.Plavan]

Chad, I thought the official word from FFR was that they recommended against cutting out the seat bar due to an important structural role they feel it plays. Are you planning on a different brace/support that will suit your seat placement, or are you just leaving it out altogether?

Best,
-john

The R does not need it. The FFR 818R does not have them.

[Santiago]

Well good to know...does open up some possibilities... =)

[FFRSpec72]

Just a picture of it in..... Now time to clean the garage, then start going at it again..

Where are the other 4 cyls ????

Sure hope that the fuel cell option is offered soon ...

[C.Plavan]

Where are the other 4 cyls ????

Sure hope that the fuel cell option is offered soon ...

Haha- I would be happy with a Porsche Flat 6.... The FFR Roadsters (and Coupe) could not keep up with me a Laguna with my 2.5L :P . I'll be fair and say Laguna IS a Porsche track. We also had to run mufflers! That cost me 3 seconds over my unrestricted time.


https://vimeo.com/23208851


Now back to the Fuel Cell-

Once I cut out the bar, and see how the seat fits/mounts I'll know more about the racing Fuel Cell. Right now with the bar in the way, my seat sits to "upright" against the rear aluminum bulkhead. I think once I cut out the bar, I will be able to raise the front of the seat and move it forward for a more comfortable seating position (Recliner). Plus, this will lower my head even more under the roll bar (which is always good). If I cant get the seating good with the pedals, steering wheel, and rear bulkhead, then it is to option #2.

Option #2 - Modify the rear bulkhead, and see if I can still get a good sized custom fuel cell in the back.

Option #3- Run a fuel cell in the passenger compartment like the FFR 818R.

[longislandwrx]

Digging that Datsun, wonder why he locked up seems like he had plenty of room to get back on the gas.

[C.Plavan]

Digging that Datsun, wonder why he locked up seems like he had plenty of room to get back on the gas.

Typical "Driving in your rearview Mirror" move.

[Frank818]

I'll be fair and say Laguna IS a Porsche track.

I am very interested to understand why.


We also had to run mufflers! That cost me 3 seconds over my unrestricted time.

I am impressed!! That's a lot!

[Scargo]

A comment and a few questions.
The sensor for the air pump system would only be needed if you use the stock ECU. I also cut away all the mass and only kept the sensor with my engine harness.

"Running the low ride height requires the use of a bumpsteer kit because the steering rack stays in the same chassis location." Does this mean that the steering rack can't be moved up to stay in plane?

Also, is there room for a fuel cell up front? For a racer, it seems like it might be an option (since we don't need that big a tank). I guess I could wait and ask these questions Friday when I visit FFR, but I thought I'd ask... Perhaps I need more ammunition.

[longislandwrx]

"Running the low ride height requires the use of a bumpsteer kit because the steering rack stays in the same chassis location." Does this mean that the steering rack can't be moved up to stay in plane?

You could but it would require custom mounts, and maybe more. bump steer kits are not expensive and are probably the easiest option.


Also, is there room for a fuel cell up front? For a racer, it seems like it might be an option (since we don't need that big a tank). I guess I could wait and ask these questions Friday when I visit FFR, but I thought I'd ask... Perhaps I need more ammunition.

You could definitely fit a good sized fuel cell up front but it would have to be custom. nothing very large in a standard size would fit.

[C.Plavan]

I started messing with the seat mounting. No need for me to cut the bars- I needed the seat farther back. I'm going to have to modify the rear firewall like other guys. The Fuel Cell will have to be narrow like the Boyd Tank, or go in the passenger area.

I need to weld in some metal for the seat mounts (over the seat area X's) or just bolt in some 1/4" Aluminum runners. I just need to wait for the seat slider to get here.

I also installed Michael's Alt bracket and turnbuckle. Nicely made parts.

I'm dealing with some issues on my Killer B Holy Header. First, Chris (Killer B) thinks it was messed up in shipping (not to me, but to Rallysport Direct because my shipping box was perfect) that's why I had to use pry bar to get it on studs. Secondly, AJW's motor they built me has some weird one off WRX oil cooler that Chris has never seen before, that's why the oil filter will not go on...... My luck. Hopefully AJW will send me what I need to install this header.

[C.Plavan]

Woot! The CNC aluminum 818R LCA spacers I made up are here. They turned out perfect- I'll install them tomorrow and get rid of the temporary stacked washers....

http://i.imgur.com/9M4JE6zl.jpg (http://imgur.com/9M4JE6z)

[wallace18]

Nice looking stuff for sure. A custom tall fuel cell in the area behind the passenger seat would work well IMO.

[longislandwrx]

Agreed, nice pieces!

[C.Plavan]

Thanks! Just my luck though....... The CNC shop messed up on the thickness for the Inner Spacer blocks. They are going to recut them. Jeeeez- can I catch a break? lol

[C.Plavan]

Race Seat install update:

My sliders got here so I mounted them up. I then cut the metal runners and spaced them out on the chassis. I cut the front bracket (not bar).... I'm not even sure why that is there....Very unsafe if it was meant for a sub belt. I cut it out so the slider adjustment handle could pass under the angled front bar.

I got it where I liked it, and where the Sub strap mounts would go (6 point harness). The seat is still a little higher than I like. I may ditch the sliders as they add 1.5" to the total height (Rear of seat pretty much as low as I can go on the side mounts I may try one more hole lower to see if it will work)). I like to sit low, especially with no roof. :)

As for the other guys with 818R's- I doubt if you want to install the aluminum cockpit stuff on the drivers side door area (and leg area). It will get in the way since we cant open doors (and its sharp!). Plus, FFR is shorting us panels on the inside anyway. Its nothing like the 818S because of our roll bars. If I do install it, it will be on the other side of the door bar- As long if it does not interfere with the body installation.

Tomorrow morning will be "Welding Day" before Turkey..... if I get a Hall Pass from Wifey.

http://i.imgur.com/5y4C8rkl.jpg (http://imgur.com/5y4C8rk)

http://i.imgur.com/J4LFUUll.jpg (http://imgur.com/J4LFUUl)

http://i.imgur.com/wHofqLil.jpg (http://imgur.com/wHofqLi)

http://i.imgur.com/2mI66T2l.jpg (http://imgur.com/2mI66T2)

[FFRSpec72]

you're not welding in a side intrusion panels to help distribute any impact on the drivers door?

[C.Plavan]

you're not welding in a side intrusion panels to help distribute any impact on the drivers door?

That is a great idea.
That would be the last thing before installing the body. You can pretty much use the FFR drivers side aluminum cockpit stuff as scrap. You just need to make your own without the 818S door angles.


I got the correct Spacer blocks already.
Looks like I may have to become a vendor if 818R or track height guys want these.

http://i.imgur.com/sK0p4fr.jpg (http://imgur.com/sK0p4fr)

[Scargo]

RE, the X under the seat
The R does not need it. The FFR 818R does not have them.
Is someone else going to get to drive the car? Why have a slider? OK, someone else may drive so why not max out what you're working with? Lower the seat shell in the bracket as much as possible; even drill new holes and trim away the interfering areas. Next, if not enough, cut into the X. Can't you drop half of the slider down to the level of the cross-bars? Put your adapter-mounting strips for the slider right into the X. Only issue I can think of is that I know my adjuster handle was a finger pincher on my STI. I had to be very careful when I moved the seat forward.
On a different subject, I was wondering about why there were side panels/kick panels in a race car. I was thinking of leaving those off. A little, smooth thermo-formed ABS piece or just a bit of carpet might be nice for next to the dead pedal.

[Canadian818]

Plaven mentioned racing in an endurance series in his first post. I'd imagine this would include quick driver changes, thus the sliders.

[C.Plavan]

RE, the X under the seat
Is someone else going to get to drive the car? Why have a slider? OK, someone else may drive so why not max out what you're working with? Lower the seat shell in the bracket as much as possible; even drill new holes and trim away the interfering areas. Next, if not enough, cut into the X. Can't you drop half of the slider down to the level of the cross-bars? Put your adapter-mounting strips for the slider right into the X. Only issue I can think of is that I know my adjuster handle was a finger pincher on my STI. I had to be very careful when I moved the seat forward.
On a different subject, I was wondering about why there were side panels/kick panels in a race car. I was thinking of leaving those off. A little, smooth thermo-formed ABS piece or just a bit of carpet might be nice for next to the dead pedal.

Canadian818 is right. I need sliders for the other drivers jumping in for future endurance races (NASA WERC series- 25 hours of T-Hill). That will not happen right away, but I might as well do it now with the body off.

As for using the steel runners and not just welding the slider on- I want to be able to remove the slider later on without grinding it out. Plus, adding a little strength/protection to the xbars where my butt is ~5-6 inches off the ground makes me feel better.

If you read my post, I am going to try and lower the seat one more hole on the side mounts. What you also need to consider is the rear firewall that is not in right now. Once you get your kit, and are able to look at it, things will become a lot clearer than some Douchebag like myself posting pictures and describing what they are doing :) . In fact, you will have it already planned out for you.

I like welding instead of drilling holes into critical areas like the seat area X bar. That also makes me feel better.

There is no wrong way to build a race car, as long as it is safe.

[Scargo]

I do not think of you as a D******* and would never call you one.:rolleyes: There is absolutely no "right way" to build this kit. For me, it's not "my way or the highway" either. I encourage input from others. It will probably help me to dodge some bullets.

Let me say that I have envisioned notches out of the X and steel rails with tapped holes welded in. Then there is less build-up of materials and you retain and improve on the strength of the X. I am 6 foot so it may not be an issue for my car.
You are correct; a lot of what I am doing is near conjecture. All will be revealed; but I can't wait!!!

[C.Plavan]

When you press rear bearings into a knuckle before bolting on the rear caliper backing plate, you can call yourself a DB... lol. If you cant make fun of yourself, you are not living right. Haha.

[RM1SepEx]

My sliders lift the seat 3/4 of an inch. I got them from Cerrullo.com I welded in the front netserts to allow the seat to be bolted in with 5/16 button heads. I'm going to use regular bolts in the rear and am adding some angle brackets to attach my regular seat belts. Perhaps a harness in my 818S later...

[FFRSpec72]

I got the correct Spacer blocks already.
Looks like I may have to become a vendor if 818R or track height guys want these.


Put me down for a set please

[C.Plavan]

Happy Turkey Day.

I ran out of time today to weld, but I did install the spacer blocks. They fit better and look better than stacked washers.

Before- with stacked washers.....
http://i.imgur.com/H53bbdFl.jpg (http://imgur.com/H53bbdF)

After-
http://i.imgur.com/hD1zg6nl.jpg (http://imgur.com/hD1zg6n)

I'll take a better picture later. My Wife was giving me the "Look". Darn steering knuckle got in the way....

[metalmaker12]

I hate the look, funny we can't give them the same look when they have us in a store for hours looking at bags and shoes

[Scargo]

My sliders lift the seat 3/4 of an inch. I got them from Cerrullo.com
Which one? How did you decide on a slider? On their website, I can't find a list or description for sliders other than by car...

[RM1SepEx]

Call them... I bought them with my seats for another project in 1988-89. I don't have a part number. They have been modified from stock and I welded in the 5/16 stainless button heads that allow them to slide past the seat mounting bolts. I'm going to extend the seat adjustment lever 2 inches too. Both had the 3 mounting holes on each end, I cut off unneeded length on one.

23718

23717

[Santiago]

That is a great idea.
That would be the last thing before installing the body.

I got the correct Spacer blocks already.
Looks like I may have to become a vendor if 818R or track height guys want these.

http://i.imgur.com/sK0p4fr.jpg (http://imgur.com/sK0p4fr)

You can also put me down for a set. Might as well start giving you and idea of the level of interest here.

Also, what thickness are you considering for an anti-intrusion plate over the door bars? I think I've heard FFRSpec72 and others mention this, but I haven't heard any mention of thickness.

Best,
-j

[D Clary]

When I ran Dirt late model they required 1/8 inch plate on doorbars

[FFRSpec72]

When I ran Dirt late model they required 1/8 inch plate on doorbars

On my challenge car I run the 1/8 plate on both doorbars and floor and pedal box area (as I have seen things come through the floor before), adds weight but to me its worth it.

[C.Plavan]

I did a little welding today. It felt good to make some sparks. I welded in the rails and sub harness mounts. Then threw some Gloss Black paint on it. I'll drill the seat mounting holes and bolt it in tomorrow.


http://i.imgur.com/aL29xBil.jpg (http://imgur.com/aL29xBi)

[FFRSpec72]

I did a little welding today. It felt good to make some sparks. I welded in the rails and sub harness mounts. Then threw some Gloss Black paint on it. I'll drill the seat mounting holes and bolt it in tomorrow.


There are no harness mounts from factory ????

[C.Plavan]

There are no harness mounts from factory ????

They have lap belt mounts, but not sub belt mounts.

My two gas pedals I bought do not fit the FFR supplied mount. I'm about ready to dump the subaru pedals and go with a full race pedal box. Frustrating....

[metalmaker12]

They have lap belt mounts, but not sub belt mounts.

My two gas pedals I bought do not fit the FFR supplied mount. I'm about ready to dump the subaru pedals and go with a full race pedal box. Frustrating....

What year pedals do you have, send me pics, I had to mod my 02 pedal a bit to make it all work

[Wayne Presley]

They have lap belt mounts, but not sub belt mounts.

My two gas pedals I bought do not fit the FFR supplied mount. I'm about ready to dump the subaru pedals and go with a full race pedal box. Frustrating....

Mount the pedal directly to the firewall, I did that on both cars I've done. Works better and puts the pedals in a better position to heal/toe.

[Scargo]

I thought I'd go for a pedal box.
23814Perhaps not this specific one, but the style with adjustable bias.
Another. http://www.racingpedalboxes.com/#!products/vstc2=pedal-boxes

I'm wondering who has used them before and whether they prefer floor mounted, which seems more naturally ergonomic, or hung ones, like most of us have in our cars?

[C.Plavan]

That is a great pedal box for the money. Especially if you have a cable throttle. Where I run into troubles is I have the FBW throttle.

You may want to look at the OBP pedal boxes. There is one where the master cylinders (With remote reservoirs) are under the drivers feet so you don't have to mess with the firewall at all. It should give our cramped seating in the 818 a break.

http://www.obpltd.com/image/cache/data/cat5/OBP0008PRC-500x500.jpg

Then you use a plate like this- or just fab one up:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/Images/L/3537-301.JPG

[C.Plavan]

Little update- I got the seat all bolted down where I like it. I dumped the sliders, but made it that I can use them later if needed. I got the shifter where I like it, I just need to permanently mount it.

I just finished mounting my pedal. I used a spacer on the bottom to get it out where I liked it (I used my other racecar as a guide). The FFR bracket needs to be designed better, period.

I will also brace it with an additional, removable bracket tying into the main pedal structure. It will make it sturdier for my lead foot.

The next step is to design a adjustable throttle stop. I may go with a simple long bolt, with a double nut for adjustment attached to firewall.

http://i.imgur.com/Q0ltQm3l.jpg (http://imgur.com/Q0ltQm3)

http://i.imgur.com/dwCIvt9l.jpg (http://imgur.com/dwCIvt9)

http://i.imgur.com/ZlVTqdel.jpg (http://imgur.com/ZlVTqde)

Next- Fuel cell measurement for a FIA rated cell. I have to be honest, I may put a normal Fuel Safe cell it in the passenger area- I do not like having the tank so close to the headers/motor. After getting my seat mounted where I like it, it moved the firewall back.

[07FIREBLADE]

How tall are you? Looking good.

[C.Plavan]

How tall are you? Looking good.

Thanks-

I'm 5'11". The hard back race seat is not really helping the room in the back.

[JeromeS13]

What size spacer did you end up using on the bottom of the pedal mount?

[Scargo]

Is it just me, or could FFR have radiused these corners or designed it with tapering sides?
24001
My visit to the factory seemed to indicate that everything was laser cut and bent. This kind of detail would be easy to incorporate if that holds true for all the add-on bracketry like this. Small attention to detail that could result in less bloodshed while working on the car. Trimming off ounces here and there eventually equals pounds shed. Partial reason for me getting bare frame.

I am fervently watching you build. The fuel cell placement and size is a big ? for me. Safety-wise, mid-car and close to center seems better.
I saw where the tank is in the FFR car. I wonder how big it is? What are you thinking of for capacity?
In my heavy, 400whp STI I needed about five gallons an outing. That's 20-30 minutes worth. I think I last calculated 7MPG.

I'm going with a pedal box. One reason is because I like the feature of altering brake bias on the fly.

[C.Plavan]

What size spacer did you end up using on the bottom of the pedal mount?

10mm M6 spacers x2. So a total of 20mm. I'm using metric rivnuts instead of the standard ones FFR supplies.

[C.Plavan]

Is it just me, or could FFR have radiused these corners or designed it with tapering sides?
24001
My visit to the factory seemed to indicate that everything was laser cut and bent. This kind of detail would be easy to incorporate if that holds true for all the add-on bracketry like this. Small attention to detail that could result in less bloodshed while working on the car. Trimming off ounces here and there eventually equals pounds shed.

I am fervently watching you build. The fuel cell placement and size is a big ? for me. Safety-wise, mid-car and close to center seems better.
I saw where the tank is in the FFR car. I wonder how big it is? What are you thinking of for capacity?
In my heavy, 400whp STI I needed about five gallons an outing. That's 20-30 minutes worth. I think I last calculated 7MPG.

I'm going with a pedal box. One reason is because I like the feature of altering brake bias on the fly.

I hear ya. I think the 818 was released a little too early. We are all having issues that we need to improvise on.

As for the Fuel Cell- I will not go bigger than 15-16 gallons if I put it in the passenger compartment. If I manage a custom tank behind the firewall. I'm guessing it will be 12-13 gallons due to size limits.

As for the pedals/brake adjustment. You do not have to put the brake bias knob under the hood. Its going on my dash where it should be in a race car. FBW pedals are trickier with new pedal boxes.

[nkw8181]

I'm new at this so this may be a stupid question but why not put the seat all the way back and make the pedals move forward and back?

Nolan

[Mechie3]

If thought about dash mounting the bias but in a street car was worried about curious people turning knobs without asking. Track only cars shouldn't have that problem.

[Scargo]

I'm new at this so this may be a stupid question but why not put the seat all the way back and make the pedals move forward and back?
Nolan Not stupid, and it has made me think about how I will mount my pedal box. Assuming that someone else might drive the car or race it, how easy would it be to retract pins or unbolt and shift the pedal assembly? While all this might be manageable by lifting the hood, I can think of some logistical and ergonomic issues that should be solved. There are many considerations.
There's the relationship of the driver to the steering wheel and distance from dash controls and shifter. What if a small person is going to drive it and you are six foot plus? Can they reach everything while bound in the seat by a six-point harness?
A pedal box on rails or rods can surely be done though you could not have a fixed master cylinder or clutch cylinder unless you had adjustable length actuator rods. If not, you'd need flexible brake lines, clutch line, etc. This is considering that you'd try and use all the stock pieces and you build a rigid framework to hold everything. I'm not sure if this is something that is potentially as easy, straightforward or as fast to adjust as repositioning the seat.
When it's a purpose-built racer many things might need to be moved and/or the seat changed out if a different person drives it.

It's already humorous for me to see big framed men squeezing into the skinny racing seat of my STI.

[C.Plavan]

It would be way easier with seat sliders. Then if needed, a spacer for the steering wheel.

I have never jumped into someone else's race car and asked them to move the pedals.... :D

[nkw8181]

Thanks for the input

Nolan

[C.Plavan]

I got a little done today-

1. Axles are almost done- (tired of playing CV Roulette)
2. Welded a brace to the crappy FFR throttle mount. It stiffened it up nicely.
3. The dead pedals and coolant cover aluminum plates mocked up and riveted together. Longislandwrx was not kidding. FFR shorts us some aluminum panels on the 818R. It makes it look unfinished. Looks better just to leave some panels off.
4. Mocked up the top radiator mounts with a spacer. I'll rivnut it and take some pictures. I'm also going to design a proper radiator mount out of aluminum.

Accelerator pedal brace before touch up painting. Not my best welds- because I knew you could not see them once dash is on :) . Bird $hit quick welds.
http://i.imgur.com/G5VxHVpl.jpg (http://imgur.com/G5VxHVp)

[metalmaker12]

Most bird **** looks better than that!!! Lol
Coming along man, looking good

[C.Plavan]

Bahahahahahaha

[C.Plavan]

I'm back after a long hiatus.

I used my new 3D printer and made up some radiator mounts. These use the OEM rubber.

I had to make radiator mounts becasue like most others we found another error with the kit. When following the manual, the lower radiator hose would hit the steering boot. Not good. So like others I grabbed two rubber bushings that are on the supplied shifter and added those to the additional lower OEM rubber mounts. By doing so it raises the radiator to clear the steering. Then you need to make or modify the top radiator mounts.
I love being able to use my 3D printer to Prototype and print in ABS. I have two versions, but I liked the "stepped version" since you do not need a spacer.

Blue "Stepped" Prototype-
http://i.imgur.com/MLxzp5Zl.jpg (http://imgur.com/MLxzp5Z)

"Flat" Prototype-
http://i.imgur.com/NFGSnaIl.jpg (http://imgur.com/NFGSnaI)

Mounted Radiator with "Stepped" version. Crazy strong (100% fill). I just mounted it this AM. 6mm Rivnuts into frame.
http://i.imgur.com/hECMOGIl.jpg (http://imgur.com/hECMOGI)

Bottom of radiator with shifter bushings added to lower OEM rubber mounts.
http://i.imgur.com/HYdz7W7l.jpg (http://imgur.com/HYdz7W7)


Added Bonus!!!! lol

First lap of Qualifying at Circuit of the Americas- Group 10 (I had the smallest motor of all the cars! 2.5L) If you want to see what 211 RWHP vs 600-700 looks like on a straight. CLICK ON HD in settings


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DkAiQgWMWA

[metalmaker12]

Time for the 818 with 3-400

[Scargo]

Looks like you were out-braking a lot of cars...
That track's on my bucket list with the 818.

[C.Plavan]

Thanks- It was alot of fun. Such a great venue.

I called FFR today on my backordered parts. The short 818R windshield should be shipping out (they got them last week). They asked if I really wanted the door liners. I said "if you gave me a mount to attach the doors to, I would of let you keep them. I can use the door liners as a template, so send them." :)

They also told me they have changed the front race splitter to an Autoclave Carbon Fiber process. It will look like the aftermarket CF race wing. If it looks like that, i will be extremely happy. That wing is perfect CF. This new process will make it sturdier for the race cars. Not sure when they will ship it, but they did say they wanted the stronger one for "MY" R per Jim... Hmmmmm- they must think I'm going to crash...:)

[longislandwrx]

HAHA, I will watch for my windscreen and door panels I guess!

[Scargo]

Is there a separate picture of the splitter? Is it integral to the front aero or mostly flat? I am going to be really reluctant to put an expensive CF splitter on the car. I might could see glass, because it might not cost too much to replace or repair.
I am inclined to go with the NASCAR material. Forgot it's name.
I think it's neat that you are finding practical uses for the RP machine. I have really scratched my head about it's usefulness. I would be thinking in terms of what I could cast, in metal, with RP patterns. Make ventilated uprights for the front and sell them! http://www.lolachampcar.com/Suspension.htm

[C.Plavan]

Trust me. Once I get the front race splitter, I will be making my own template of it. Those are the first things to go.

[Santiago]

I am inclined to go with the NASCAR material. Forgot it's name.

I believe it's "Tegris." Tough, relatively inexpensive, easy to machine, bit heavy though compared to composites. Real nice stuff overall.

[C.Plavan]

I have been busy with work and other stuff. Here is a picture of the "Other Stuff" :) :) :)

I have to boast a bit, I'm sure you guys understand. We finally found our dream house. They just finished it in December. The 818R is getting a new garage! We will close in 60 days :)

The 3 car portion (With Scale car models printed off my 3D printer...Yeah I know, I nerded out.) Its extra deep so I can fit a total of 5 cars in there if I wanted. The sideways car will be my project car that I had to take to my Dad's house once the 818R showed up. we outgrew this house/garage :) )
http://i.imgur.com/EvuRlLPl.jpg (http://imgur.com/EvuRlLP)

The 2 car portion (This will just be for racecars- no need for the 3rd car in there, I was just playing around.
http://i.imgur.com/xU2fmcPl.jpg (http://imgur.com/xU2fmcP)

Epoxy floor is going in in a couple weeks- I WILL NEVER DO RACEDECK AGAIN. I cant wait!

[Canadian818]

Seperate "race car garage", wow, congrats!

[Scargo]

I believe it's "Tegris." Tough, relatively inexpensive, easy to machine, bit heavy though compared to composites. Real nice stuff overall.
If I move my radiator to the rear and have my battery back there and lighter front suspension components, I will need the Tegris up front...:p I am scheming.

[C.Plavan]

I just received the inner door liners (Fiberglass)- They look horrible compared to everything else. Good thing I'm only using them as a template. I'm still waiting on my 818R Shorty windshield and front CF race splitter.

[JeromeS13]

I just received the inner door liners (Fiberglass)- They look horrible compared to everything else. Good thing I'm only using them as a template. I'm still waiting on my 818R Shorty windshield and front CF race splitter.

Did you also get the note that the new CF pieces are at least another 2 months out?

[C.Plavan]

Jerome- Yeah they told me. Still waiting on Shorty windscreen still.

In the mean time I have been "Nesting" in the new house. Epoxy floors are in. Clear Coat is next.

http://i.imgur.com/jZ6oINbl.jpg (http://imgur.com/jZ6oINb)
http://i.imgur.com/kBIu8skl.jpg (http://imgur.com/kBIu8sk)
http://i.imgur.com/YmlEW9fl.jpg (http://imgur.com/YmlEW9f)

[longislandwrx]

great view!.. and the mountains are also nice

[C.Plavan]

Hey Jerome- I just called on the front splitters. They said they could ship them to me this week (I was talking to shipping). I asked if they were the new autoclave version, they could not answer and did not know. I need to call back and check. My gut is telling me they are still making the old versions, but I need to clarify.

Getting ready to move to the new house...... Should be fun without wheels here yet. I got my axles all squared away. I cant wait to get the baby in the new garage.

[Rasmus]

All that room. Just think of the activities!

[C.Plavan]

All that room. Just think of the activities!

Yeah- I am going to get in all sorts of trouble. It also has a semi private "Test Track". Its a gated community with 90 2+ acre lots with only 6 houses so far.....Zoom Zoom while I can. My wife is already worried that I am going to piss off the few neighbors we currently have. haha

[305mouse]

All that room. Just think of the activities!

I'm just laughing here thinking of the movie Stepbrothers after they build the bunk beds

[C.Plavan]

I'm just laughing here thinking of the movie Stepbrothers after they build the bunk beds

Don't touch my Drum Set.

[icky]

Yeah- I am going to get in all sorts of trouble. It also has a semi private "Test Track". Its a gated community with 90 2+ acre lots with only 6 houses so far.....Zoom Zoom while I can. My wife is already worried that I am going to piss off the few neighbors we currently have. haha

No, you have to start from the beginning so they all know what's up!

[longislandwrx]

Yeah- I am going to get in all sorts of trouble. It also has a semi private "Test Track". Its a gated community with 90 2+ acre lots with only 6 houses so far.....Zoom Zoom while I can. My wife is already worried that I am going to piss off the few neighbors we currently have. haha

SOLD. Post the link, I'm going back back to Cali Cali!



NM found it! holy cow, there's one with a 6 car garage!

[Scargo]

Yeah- I am going to get in all sorts of trouble. It also has a semi private "Test Track". Its a gated community with 90 2+ acre lots with only 6 houses so far.....Zoom Zoom while I can. My wife is already worried that I am going to piss off the few neighbors we currently have. haha
I have to tell on myself. I am always looking for the private test track...
When I was 16 my brother let me take his pristine 283, '55 Chevy for a drive. On a Sunday morning, I thought I had found my private test track. It was Interstate 35 in north Dallas. The state was in the process of building it. I went onto it from an exit ramp and zoomed down a few miles, then turned around. I was flying when I reached the unfinished overpass where I had gotten on. By the time I realized there was no bridge it was too late. I locked up the brakes on sand and gravel covered pavement and slid off. Muddy, plowed dirt cushioned my nose first impact below. I survived with bruised ribs. The car did not survive.

[Xusia]

Wow. That's the stuff of fiction - I never actually thought that kind of thing happened to real people. Good story now!

[C.Plavan]

Sorry guys- Been in Vegas for work, now I'm a packing fool. Movers come tomorrow.

When I say "Private Test Track" I mean the development is gated with only 6 houses so far (5 finished, 6th house is starting). The roads are clear for some fun (within gated community). It is in no way a real track, nor will I be getting stupid (well, maybe a little). Haha. You will have to dodge Deer, Coyotes, Mountain Lions, Squirrels, and the elusive Roach Coach that is feeding the construction workers.
http://i.imgur.com/jfgpu7Sl.jpg
Lots of elevations changes that you cannot see.

Longisland- you are a great stalker! Haha. That 6 car garage house was out of our budget- heck, this one was! We liked the lot better on our current house too.

The ONLY reason I was "Allowed" to get this big garage, was because my wife saw this...
http://i.imgur.com/HbFjSeZl.jpg (http://imgur.com/HbFjSeZ)

BOOM Done deal. She wanted the house more than me. Happy Wife, happy life.

Back to packing.....

[gwarden]

nice road course

[C.Plavan]

Figures-

I had two of my friends help me transport my wheel-less 818R to the new house. Kinda a PITA with the trailer door jam..... We used a couple of dollies, my trailer winch, and two jacks.
http://i.imgur.com/5B2Qyoal.jpg

Then 8 of these showed up the next day.....

http://i.imgur.com/9hiwuq8l.jpg

Murphy's law.

Once I organized the new garage, Ill be going full force!

[longislandwrx]

funny how fast a 3 car garage fills up with stuff.

[C.Plavan]

funny how fast a 3 car garage fills up with stuff.

No doubt. I just need to move stuff over to the other garage. The movers just piled the stuff in "mine". :)

[C.Plavan]

I am still organizing the garage..... My lift is still sitting in the trailer, once I get the tires for the wheels, I should be set to start working on it again.

I wanted to pass on a great find on Amazon. A great tire rack for the garage. The best ~$82 I have spent. I will need to grab a few more.
http://www.amazon.com/HyLoft-01012-Tire-Loft-Storage-48-Inch/dp/B0045EQ02O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1396106655&sr=8-3&keywords=hyloft+tire+rack

http://i.imgur.com/yP3OKmfl.jpg

I'm packing up my wiring harness for a severe diet for a Plug-N-Play installation that a few of us 818 owners have been involved in helping design. More info on that later. Most of us want to keep the stock ECU for easier tuning capabilities (COBB).

[Frank818]

Same tire rack as I have in my garage! :)

[Canadian818]

Me too! Great for getting them out of the way.

[C.Plavan]

I have a roller!
http://i.imgur.com/oOXlInol.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/p2WNVqIl.jpg (http://imgur.com/p2WNVqI)
http://i.imgur.com/Lt3Mjsql.jpg (http://imgur.com/Lt3Mjsq)

Front 235/40 R17 Toyo RR (17x8 +38 with 3mm spacer for now)
Rear 255/40 R17 Toyo RR (17x9 +40 with 5mm spacer- Clears regular WRX trailing arm fine- but car still needs an alignment)

[TahoeTim]

Looks good. So a rear wheel with 35 backspace would work without a spacer, right?

[C.Plavan]

Looks good. So a rear wheel with 35 backspace would work without a spacer, right?

Should be fine. Keep in mind the whole car is not together yet. I bought higher offsets so I could space them out perfectly once the car is done.

On the front there is a little rubbing on full lock. That is without a proper alignment or adjustment. The rub is less than my current race car which makes me feel good. The only time I go full lock is in the pits maneuvering the car around, never on the race track.

[Aero STI]

Nice to see it is ready to roll around. Great tire choice.

[longislandwrx]

The only time I go full lock is in the pits maneuvering the car around, never on the race track.

you're doing it wrong

27558

:cool:

[C.Plavan]

you're doing it wrong

27558

:cool:

Not with these tires! haha

[JeromeS13]

The only time I go full lock is in the pits maneuvering the car around, never on the race track.

I went opposite full lock a few minutes ago... Gave my neighbor the first ride along... I had a bit of a pucker moment, as I had concrete curbs on both sides... I pulled it out, though... Haha. Car gets loose EASY!

[C.Plavan]

You guys are crazy. haha

Reference picture for the rear tire inside clearance.
http://i.imgur.com/LV598mOl.jpg (http://imgur.com/LV598mO)

[Scargo]

I like this tire comparator. (http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp)
It gave me this info, which is pretty close for my BFGs.
27600
Here's actual sizing, starting with my BFG 275s.


Tire Size
Product Code
Max Load
Max psi
Tread Depth
Weight
Rim Width Range
Measured Rim
Section Width
Tread Width
Overall Diameter
UTQG
Revs per Mile
Price






275/35ZR18 87W LL
96476
1201 lbs.
51
4/32"
25 lbs.
9-11"
9.5"
10.9"
10.8"
25.4"
40 B A
819
$301





















255 Toyo RRs:


Tire Size
Load ID
Product Code
Approved Rim Width Range
Weight
Tread Depth (1/32")
Overall Diameter (inch)
Overall Width (inch)
Max Load
Max PSI
UTQG
Revs Per Mile
Price





















































255/40ZR17
SL
255110
8.5-9.0-10.0
24
3.7
25.0
10.2
1477
51
40 C A
830
in stock




It looks like there's .7" difference in section width and .4" in overall diameter. Your ruler looks to show that there's something approaching 3/4" clearance between the trailing arm and the tire sidewall. Is that the closest point of interference? What about in front, at the bulkhead?
The reddish-pink things... The trailing arms/control arms... I guess you painted them, as you mentioned the tires clearing regular WRX trailing arms.
Hmmm. Why wouldn't my big wheels and tires fit?

[C.Plavan]

I like this tire comparator. (http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp)
It gave me this info, which is pretty close for my BFGs.
27600
Here's actual sizing, starting with my BFG 275s.


Tire Size
Product Code
Max Load
Max psi
Tread Depth
Weight
Rim Width Range
Measured Rim
Section Width
Tread Width
Overall Diameter
UTQG
Revs per Mile
Price






275/35ZR18 87W LL
96476
1201 lbs.
51
4/32"
25 lbs.
9-11"
9.5"
10.9"
10.8"
25.4"
40 B A
819
$301





















255 Toyo RRs:


Tire Size
Load ID
Product Code
Approved Rim Width Range
Weight
Tread Depth (1/32")
Overall Diameter (inch)
Overall Width (inch)
Max Load
Max PSI
UTQG
Revs Per Mile
Price





















































255/40ZR17
SL
255110
8.5-9.0-10.0
24
3.7
25.0
10.2
1477
51
40 C A
830
in stock




It looks like there's .7" difference in section width and .4" in overall diameter. Your ruler looks to show that there's something approaching 3/4" clearance between the trailing arm and the tire sidewall. Is that the closest point of interference? What about in front, at the bulkhead?
The reddish-pink things... The trailing arms/control arms... I guess you painted them, as you mentioned the tires clearing regular WRX trailing arms.
Hmmm. Why wouldn't my big wheels and tires fit?

Its hard to figure out unless you try it. That is what sucks. Worst case is if the tires hit the inside, you can always buy Wayne's arms which should fit fine. My trailing arms are the Subaru Performance Models. They are OEM, just upgraded with spherical bearings- along with the other lateral link. No idea why they paint them "Cherry Blossom Red"...lol Must be a Subie thing. I didn't trust "Ebay" models/parts on a race car.

I measured from the area that was the closest to rubbing. Don't worry about the bulkhead or the front. I may try the 275 Toyo on my other set of rims later.

[C.Plavan]

Since I finally received the wheels, I was able to finish up the transmission. The Legacy GT trans is all buttoned up, Rori's Shift Arm & bracket cant come soon enough. Shiny! No rattle can here-

http://i.imgur.com/1z5gTp3l.jpg (http://imgur.com/1z5gTp3)

[C.Plavan]

I figured I would share this tip if you wanted cockpit control of the supplied brake bias valve. All you need to do is order the Wilwood brake bias adjuster cable (Amazon, Ebay, Summit, Jegs).

Then use a propane torch to heat up the existing black knob on the supplied valve. Get it hot enough to break the bond of the glue. (Try not to get the housing too hot, you do not want to damage any seals).

Then you can screw on the adjusting cable and mount it somewhere in the cockpit. Once you get it in a place you like, make sure to bond the adjuster nut to the valve (I'm thinking red locktite)

http://i.imgur.com/C83WXcNl.jpg (http://imgur.com/C83WXcN)

http://i.imgur.com/ldeUltxl.jpg (http://imgur.com/ldeUltx)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hi Chad
Good tip.
Is there a reason not to just run the lines into the cockpit and mount the valve under the dash?
Bob

[C.Plavan]

Hi Chad
Good tip.
Is there a reason not to just run the lines into the cockpit and mount the valve under the dash?
Bob

You totally could do that. I had the adjustment cable already. But if you wanted to add it after the fact you could. The adjustment cable is nice, it has detent feedback. But either way it will work just fine.

[Canadian818]

Having never driven a car with an adjustable brake bias, is it something you would adjust often? I know it isn't for the street, but what about on track?

[C.Plavan]

You don't tinker with it all that much once you get it set right. A few clicks here and there. During a race you can fine tune due to weather, temp, tires, fuel load going down, etc. Its nice to have it in reach while racing. Personally, kinda a waste on a street car.

I also wanted to add that is alot easier to "plumb" the cable and knob to the cockpit, than the whole brake bias proportional valve.

[longislandwrx]

Great tip, i'll be picking one of these up.

[metalmaker12]

I figured I would share this tip if you wanted cockpit control of the supplied brake bias valve. All you need to do is order the Wilwood brake bias adjuster cable (Amazon, Ebay, Summit, Jegs).

Then use a propane torch to heat up the existing black knob on the supplied valve. Get it hot enough to break the bond of the glue. (Try not to get the housing too hot, you do not want to damage any seals).

Then you can screw on the adjusting cable and mount it somewhere in the cockpit. Once you get it in a place you like, make sure to bond the adjuster nut to the valve (I'm thinking red locktite)

http://i.imgur.com/C83WXcNl.jpg (http://imgur.com/C83WXcN)

http://i.imgur.com/ldeUltxl.jpg (http://imgur.com/ldeUltx)



Awesome

[RM1SepEx]

cockpit adjustable, just like my shifter kart!

[C.Plavan]

I need some input from some Subi guys-
Anything wrong with mounting the Cobb intake here without the post MAF silicon hose?

http://i.imgur.com/fIXszIJl.jpg (http://imgur.com/fIXszIJ)

[Scargo]

Chad, I'm not an expert in this area. IE, I don't know how little you can get away with. I know you need some number of inches of undisturbed air so the MAF sensor can get an accurate reading. I think you are pushing your luck.
My 3" tube has 12" from the filter to the MAF but there is about a 15 degree bend four inches before the MAF sensor.

[Aero STI]

An extended section of straight before and after the MAF is important for a blow through setup, not as important for a draw through. I wouldn't be concerned about your configuration.

[C.Plavan]

I got my clutch line plumbed today. I bought Mikes SS line kit. The Slave is a B%^$& to bleed when fully dry. I have never had bleeding fight me so much. I finally just gave up until I get some help from a buddy.

Edit: I finally bribed my wife to climb into the 818R- Clutch all bled and perfect now.

Picture of Mike's SS clutch line kit installed. Everything you need in one package.
http://i.imgur.com/4Lz1KAXl.jpg?1 (http://imgur.com/4Lz1KAX)

[icky]

you my friend need a vacuum bleeder.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MTV0/MV6830/N0678.oap?ck=Search_N0678_MTV_-1_-1&mn=Mityvac&mc=MTV&pt=N0678&ppt=C0067

[C.Plavan]

I finally got the lift situated in the new garage. Now things will be progressing faster. I'm looking at new cabinets to order so I can organize the garage better.

I shipped off my harness to IWire. Woot! I did not want to deal with the electrical, and Brian there has been great in asking for our help in designing it for the 818R. I prefer being able to use the Cobb Accessport for tuning. Plus, there are tons of places close that will tune it.

Checklist left-
1. Need to finish some brake lines.
2. Need to run the coolant lines (most likely going with the aftermarket hard lines)
3. Order Fuel Safe cell.
4. Install harness when I get it back and start the baby up!

http://i.imgur.com/mPhkF3Gl.jpg (http://imgur.com/mPhkF3G)
http://i.imgur.com/OM006N0l.jpg (http://imgur.com/OM006N0)

[FFRSpec72]

I finally got the lift situated in the new garage. Now things will be progressing faster. I'm looking at new cabinets to order so I can organize the garage better.
I shipped off my harness to IWire.

Looking good! You need a few more cars in the garage ! Brian has finished my harness and should have it back this week as I should have the engine in soon and can fire that thing up and make sure all works well and then continue the build. Still stuck finishing suspension as the Konis are still back ordered.

[metros]

Details on the harness work being done? I'm not crazy about the thought of dieting my harness. I've got an 02 wrx donor and will be usung cobbs ap as well.

[Scargo]

I see red shocks on the car so I am confused about you saying you are waiting on the Konis. I thought the reds are the high-end Koni FFR offers.
Nice lift. I just ordered one. Wife's orders...

[FFRSpec72]

Details on the harness work being done? I'm not crazy about the thought of dieting my harness. I've got an 02 wrx donor and will be usung cobbs ap as well.

Brian from iWire should be posting soon as he just finished my harness and he has pictures of what he has done, really nice work, but he will customize to your needs.

[Bill Waters]

Chad - pardon me if this has been discussed previously, but I'm curious about the platforms and ramps you are using, as pictured in the photo of your lift. I have a lift similar to yours. The runners/platforms which elevate the car and allow clearance to exit the lift appear to be 2 x 10 or 2 x 12 lumber stacked and then covered with carpet. Is that correct? What brand are the ramps and where did you find them?

Thanks,

Bill

[metros]

Thanks for the info Tony. If his pricing for the diet is in the ballpark of his harness merging services (or less would be ok) then I'm 100% interested.

[C.Plavan]

I see red shocks on the car so I am confused about you saying you are waiting on the Konis. I thought the reds are the high-end Koni FFR offers.
Nice lift. I just ordered one. Wife's orders...

I'm not waiting- I have all my stuff (except front race splitter- waiting for the new version). I think you saw Tony's post.


Bill- Those are 2x10's covered with outdoor carpet (Staple gunned on). If I were going to do it again, I would use 2x12's. Those black ramps came from an old set of drive up ramps (Amazon should have them or Groits). You might be able to find them separately.

[longislandwrx]

Nice! I guess the test track is opening soon.

[Bill Waters]

Thanks, Chad

[Doowop]

Went through your whole thread! Great build.
What rear suspension parts and trailing arms are you using?

[C.Plavan]

Went through your whole thread! Great build.
What rear suspension parts and trailing arms are you using?

Thanks. The rear are special spherical bearing OEM peices. "Subaru Performance Tuning". You can buy them from a dealer or online. Really nice stuff, just not my normal color :)

[C.Plavan]

I have been playing with Rori's parts. They are very nice. (Bracket and shift arm)

http://i.imgur.com/SIoYfwnl.jpg

[C.Plavan]

My Wife got these for my Bday. The garage is starting to look like the shop I wanted. Working on the race cars is going to be even more fun! Great deal on Homedepot.com right now.
http://i.imgur.com/qXqY2fnl.jpg (http://imgur.com/qXqY2fn)

[Doowop]

great deals on those cabinets!! they look awesome and are cheap!!

[C.Plavan]

great deals on those cabinets!! they look awesome and are cheap!!

Saved over $600. They are welded metal too. I'm impressed. I might buy a few more pieces.

[C.Plavan]

I cut the aluminum and drilled holes for the shifter in the center tunnel. I'm trying to decide if I want to keep the center tunnel aluminum or painting it with matt black Plasti-Dip. Hmmmm

I love the feel of this shifter. Thanks Wayne and Rori!

http://i.imgur.com/dOMfxYUl.jpg (http://imgur.com/dOMfxYU)

[Bill Waters]

Woot! The CNC aluminum 818R LCA spacers I made up are here. They turned out perfect- I'll install them tomorrow and get rid of the temporary stacked washers....

http://i.imgur.com/9M4JE6zl.jpg (http://imgur.com/9M4JE6z)

Chad - why did you end up with spacers of different thicknesses? It seems to me that the rear LCA mounting "wings" would need to elevate by the same amount.

I figured that the amount they would need to space up is 0.33". If you have time or inclination, have a look at my post in the "R" sub forum.

Thanks,

Bill

[Brando]

I used a single 3/8th on one side and stacked (2) 3/8th on the other. I used aluminum squares on mine. Your not factoring one side is already on top of body mount while other is underneith so sizes will end up different. Chad what are the 2 heights you went with?

[C.Plavan]

Hey Guys,

Post #99 on page 3. From Jim at FFR in an email.

There is alot of good info in Post #99.

Brando is right-
Remember on the S, one ear goes BELOW the mount. On the R, it goes above the mount, so you have to remember to factor in the thickness of the actual mount also. That is why the two different sizes.
But I admit, we got a few different numbers because the original R is not necessarily the same as ours. Jim did the math and rechecked everything before sending me those numbers.

If you use the same size spacer on both sides, it will not be correct.
S:
http://i.imgur.com/OHWIatpl.jpg (http://imgur.com/OHWIatp)

R:
http://i.imgur.com/hD1zg6nl.jpg (http://imgur.com/hD1zg6n)

Dont forget about bumpsteer either- I'll post those spacer requirements.

[C.Plavan]

Also if you use the Baer Bumpsteer (a must with the R ride height to eliminate nastly bumpsteer) they recommend the below spacers at R height (Drill out taper and use bolt with 2- 7/16th spacer- post #99 also)

"Chad,

Spacers were 2-7/16 in the front. That give just a little roll toe-out which is what I like to see in the front. (you can also dial in a little bit of roll toe-in to the rear by adjusting the length of the upper trailing arm)


Jim"