Plavan's 818R Build Thread

[FFRSpec72]

How are you getting out of the car? Dukes of hazzard style? :)



Yep same as Challenge car, same cage.

[C.Plavan]

Won't it be fun to run an 818 against another 818? Buttonwillow? Streets? Seca?
Where will our first bit of joint ffr fun take place? That day is coming soon and I am pretty amped.

I cant wait Brandon. My goal is to race in a Buttonwillow NASA race at the beginning of Oct (A year from when I took delivery). I have a few race buddies that plan on testing at BW in Sept. So I want to really finish before then.
What are you doing with your new motor? Anything different?

Just curious, how long did it take for you to get your body on?

My major todo checklist list-
Plumb dry sump
Install body (finger-crossed on the door vents and canards)
Design/fabricate/weld rear wing support
Make a firewall cover for fuel cell
Install additional gauges/senders

I'm gone every weekend in August which sucks. (Somehow I was suckered into a Tough Mudder in Tahoe-I don't know what I was thinking) I may have to take some vacation time to finish this thing before the test days.

[C.Plavan]

I was going to weld mine like I did my Challenge car but think I will bolt to the 2" squares like you did.

I was thinking of welding in 1/8th inch steel, but it will severely limit access to seat/belt changes when things expire, or when you need to remove the rear firewall (by removing seat). Mounting the seat/belts is a chore to line things up without it on. With an Instrusion plate..... Holy moly it will be tough.
One tip- Install all the harshness "eyes" before installing the seat. There is not enough room to get the eye bolts into the harness mounts (you cant get right angle with seat in there).

[C.Plavan]

Body fitting..... The rear bonnet will be the death of me..... Are you guys waiting for good adjustment after you mount the side pods and bumpers? I have everything clamped down, but the rear bonnet and hinge interferes with the hatch. I think I have tried every version of hinge adjustment possible. Should I say screw it and mount the side pods and rear bumper, or keep messing with the hinge adjustment?
http://i.imgur.com/Mk7VHvy.jpg (http://imgur.com/Mk7VHvy)

[Brando]

If you end up doing track testing at BW check and see if you can +1.Your first time running with NASA will you be doing TT or door to door? TT is all my car will be allowed to run with them (correct me if i'm wrong).

I got really impatient with the body so I threw it all together in 2 1/2 weeks. It came out more than acceptable for my expectations.

I never updated my build thread but like I told you directly my motor totally seized at the AutoX I was debating on. Motor is already apart and heads shipped out and drysump was ordered 2 days ago.
I'm stroking the motor and installing race bearings, STI crank, forged rods/pistons, cams, new turbo and element tuning drysump. I'm actually at the point where i have to decide on which pistons and am on the fence as to what compression to go with. I was thinking 9-1...but am open to suggestion. Picking the turbo has been challenging, the more I investigate the more options I find. I'm leaning towards the Blouch Dominator 2.5XT-R "Polka Pickle" Ball Bearing turbo. I have not decided on cams yet. Goal is a RELIABLE 350WHP

Awesome with the tough mudder. I'm doing the So Cal one Oct 25th. We were also going to do the Tahoe mudder but it fell through.

EDIT: I wanted to note the motor seizing was not due to the AutoX. I went into the day with bad engine knock knowing that I was probably going to get towed home. It was on its last leg prior to the day. I do beleive now that 818 + slicks + track = spun bearings if you don't have at least an accusump. I want to know how the FFR cars are ripping around like they do without oiling issues.

[Mechie3]

I think Dan rm1sepex did some hinge work. I haven't done the hinges yet.

[RM1SepEx]

Chad, I don't understand your question...

[wallace18]

Body fitting..... The rear bonnet will be the death of me..... Are you guys waiting for good adjustment after you mount the side pods and bumpers? I have everything clamped down, but the rear bonnet and hinge interferes with the hatch. I think I have tried every version of hinge adjustment possible. Should I say screw it and mount the side pods and rear bumper, or keep messing with the hinge adjustment?
http://i.imgur.com/Mk7VHvy.jpg (http://imgur.com/Mk7VHvy)

I drilled out the rivet on the hinge point of the hinge. Then I slotted anything that needed to be. Then redrilled the pivot hole and used a button head and lock nut. There should be plenty of adjustment in the slots of the bracket on the rear hatch unless something is different on the R.

[nuisance]

Great to see you finally go cart. Hate to change the subject but I am a ways behind you. I saw how you and Brando trimmed the upper control arm and I did a similar job. I also cut the sleeves down and thinned the nuts on the rear portion so I could retain both Jam nuts. You need to run both nuts or the aluminum sleeve will wear out very quickly. Just curious, is this how they got camber in the FFR cars?32012

That is how I did it. Though I turned the threaded bolts and the sleeve down rather than thinning the nuts. Took 1/8th" off each side, and about 1/2" off the one that is welded, and barely got -3 camber and 3.6 castor.

[nuisance]

Body fitting..... The rear bonnet will be the death of me..... Are you guys waiting for good adjustment after you mount the side pods and bumpers? I have everything clamped down, but the rear bonnet and hinge interferes with the hatch. I think I have tried every version of hinge adjustment possible. Should I say screw it and mount the side pods and rear bumper, or keep messing with the hinge adjustment?
http://i.imgur.com/Mk7VHvy.jpg (http://imgur.com/Mk7VHvy)

I tried this fitting the other day. I couldn't even get the deck with the spider humps to fit over the roll bar. It is clearly made to fit the "S" frame, and just cut for the "R". Still has notches in it for the "S" configuration of roll bars. I couldn't seem to spring the arms out wide enough to clear the cage. And this is a piece we are supposed to take on and off for engine access?

I gave it up for now, lots of other work to do, but if you have a tip it would be appreciated.

[C.Plavan]

Chad, I don't understand your question...

Sorry- It is a little confusing with a rant tone...lol

I meant to ask, should I just mount the side pods, rear bumper, with the rear bonnet (trunk) panel laying on, but not hooked to hinges for now. I can get decent lines without the rear bonnet bolted to the hinges, the problems with the rear bonnet happen when I bolt it to the hinges. Then all hell breaks loose on the rear lines. I'm just wondering if I should deal with the hinge alignment problem now before mounting, or push it off to later and still mount the side pods/bumper.

[C.Plavan]

I tried this fitting the other day. I couldn't even get the deck with the spider humps to fit over the roll bar. It is clearly made to fit the "S" frame, and just cut for the "R". Still has notches in it for the "S" configuration of roll bars. I couldn't seem to spring the arms out wide enough to clear the cage. And this is a piece we are supposed to take on and off for engine access?

I gave it up for now, lots of other work to do, but if you have a tip it would be appreciated.

Mine came cut. How did they ship the car to you? My rear hatch was already on, and in the right place when they rolled it off the truck.

[RM1SepEx]

Chad, check my thread, I had to trim the tops of the hinges off, they held the engine cover up so it wouldn't seat. I took photos to show where they needed to be ground off.

post 742 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10649-RM1Sepex-Build-Thread/page19

I think I outlined the correct sequence/proceedure in my thread for the body. I'm sure that the R tubes make it more complicated.

I need to reinforce the tops of the bumps, too much stress there when you remove the engine cover. I found that I needed to use time and gravity to get the panels to sit well.

I think that you need to do them all at the same time as a tiny movement in one area makes a big change in another.

At least your panels are much better than mine!

[C.Plavan]

Chad, check my thread, I had to trim the tops of the hinges off, they held the engine cover up so it wouldn't seat. I took photos to show where they needed to be ground off.

post 742 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10649-RM1Sepex-Build-Thread/page19

I think I outlined the correct sequence/proceedure in my thread for the body. I'm sure that the R tubes make it more complicated.

I need to reinforce the tops of the bumps, too much stress there when you remove the engine cover. I found that I needed to use time and gravity to get the panels to sit well.

I think that you need to do them all at the same time as a tiny movement in one area makes a big change in another.

At least your panels are much better than mine!

Thanks Dan- I was just looking at your posts. I think I have a better handle on it. I guess I can perm mount the sides and rear bumper, then deal with the trimming of the rear cover later. I just didn't know if I should start drilling holes, if the rear cover was having issues once bolted.

[sponaugle]

I took the car out for a little acceleration test after work (Closed Course of course). I decided my helmet was needed (Plus, I found out bugs hurt when they hit you).


Congratulations on karting! That looks fantastic. Like everyone said, the sound is perfect.



I never updated my build thread but like I told you directly my motor totally seized at the AutoX I was debating on. Motor is already apart and heads shipped out and drysump was ordered 2 days ago.
I'm stroking the motor and installing race bearings, STI crank, forged rods/pistons, cams, new turbo and element tuning drysump. I'm actually at the point where i have to decide on which pistons and am on the fence as to what compression to go with. I was thinking 9-1...but am open to suggestion. Picking the turbo has been challenging, the more I investigate the more options I find. I'm leaning towards the Blouch Dominator 2.5XT-R "Polka Pickle" Ball Bearing turbo. I have not decided on cams yet. Goal is a RELIABLE 350WHP


Over the years I have tuned a lot of Subarus with different static compression ratios. In general I was surprised at how little difference it made. The combination of the mediocre head design with the significant contribution to power from both the turbocharger and the camshafts makes static compression less important. I tuned one at about 10.1:1 and it did make a little bit more torque off boost, but was (as you might expect) more octane sensitive. There were spots in the power band pump fuel could not get to MBT. It seems like around 9:1 is a good place to be. The camshafts make a huge difference in where the powerband is. If you have a turbo that doesn't spool until 4500 rpm, it is nice to have a good cam that helps to keep torque up above 7000 rpm. I like the Cosworth and Kelford cams, but there are many choices these days.

Jeff

[metalmaker12]

Congratulations on karting! That looks fantastic. Like everyone said, the sound is perfect.



Over the years I have tuned a lot of Subarus with different static compression ratios. In general I was surprised at how little difference it made. The combination of the mediocre head design with the significant contribution to power from both the turbocharger and the camshafts makes static compression less important. I tuned one at about 10.1:1 and it did make a little bit more torque off boost, but was (as you might expect) more octane sensitive. There were spots in the power band pump fuel could not get to MBT. It seems like around 9:1 is a good place to be. The camshafts make a huge difference in where the powerband is. If you have a turbo that doesn't spool until 4500 rpm, it is nice to have a good cam that helps to keep torque up above 7000 rpm. I like the Cosworth and Kelford cams, but there are many choices these days.

Jeff


Agreed, With my spec c cams it seems the stock static compression is what works best 8:0:1, but with more lumpy cams a slightly higher of 9:0:1 seems solid up higher. Also turbo selection helps.
My build is going to use :
the stock heads, ported/ polished slightly, spec c cams all rebuilt and machine etc.
Bottom end:my stock Sti rods, or better, ( jdm Sti rods are pretty strong) cp pistons, all new acl bearings, all machine work, arp studs and pins etc
Dom 1.5xtr twinscroll turbo running at 16-19psi
Id1000 injectors, Perrin 3" inlet and custom 3" exhaust.
Jdm twin scroll headers and uppipe.
Good for 450plus, but I am only shooting for 300-330whp

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks Dan- I was just looking at your posts. I think I have a better handle on it. I guess I can perm mount the sides and rear bumper, then deal with the trimming of the rear cover later. I just didn't know if I should start drilling holes, if the rear cover was having issues once bolted.

I used a few holes everywhere until I was happy, now I'm finalizing all the mounting points and putting in my riv-nuts so that everything is removable.

[C.Plavan]

VERY productive morning after reading a ton of build threads. Thank you all for your detailed builds.

I actually cut 1/8th" to 1/4" of the vertical lip of the engine cover and rear hatch. They were sitting up to high for my liking. Now they are flush with the side pods and look great.

Side pods on, rear bumper on, Engine cover on (with Mini latches- which I love), I just need to tackle the rear hatch/bonnet. The gaps turned out pretty good. I'm sure I can tweak one, but its a race car, i'll get to it.

http://i.imgur.com/NDMSRH8l.png

http://i.imgur.com/wuwutWXl.png

[C.Plavan]

I was able to finish the rear and adjusted the hinges nicely. Now on to the front. But I'm done for today.

http://i.imgur.com/r3Dri9Ol.png

http://i.imgur.com/2urEUeCl.png

http://i.imgur.com/RwAOX9Gl.png

[freds]

Thanks- Just curious what Idle RPMs you set.

On Friday I replaced the LW pulley and test drove it....very minor improvement...if any. So yesterday I replaced the LW flywheel (12 Lbs) with the stock one (23 lbs)..Bingo! what a difference. I drove it yesterday afternoon after I got it back together, and I have just driven it again today...to make sure.

It is now a pleasure!

Check my thread for pictures, if interested.

For any kind of daily driver, I would advise strongly against a LW flywheel. The pulley is probably insignificant.


fred

[sponaugle]

On Friday I replaced the LW pulley and test drove it....very minor improvement...if any. So yesterday I replaced the LW flywheel (12 Lbs) with the stock one (23 lbs)..Bingo! what a difference. I drove it yesterday afternoon after I got it back together, and I have just driven it again today...to make sure.

It is now a pleasure!

Check my thread for pictures, if interested.

For any kind of daily driver, I would advise strongly against a LW flywheel. The pulley is probably insignificant.

fred

I agree. I had a very very light carbon/carbon clutch on my WRX for a while, and it had an extremely light flywheel as well. It was a pain to drive around town because the RPMs would drop too much between shifts. It made driving very jerky. It was great for fast upshifts at the track however.

Jeff

[GUNS]

Body's looking great, well done. I'll be contacting you when I get to that part.

[C.Plavan]

Take that Bodywork!

I'm just waiting for a few more Mini latches for the hood.
http://i.imgur.com/xYj6Dorl.png

[Aero STI]

Great work Chad!

[C.Plavan]

Thanks-

The Little guy is happy I'm almost finished with "His" race car.... I still need to clean up a few lines, sand down/finish some cuts (I found the voids you guys were talking about...) I need to go buy some 2x4's, I cant get the jacks under it anymore its so low.


http://i.imgur.com/dCwHttwl.png

[Brando]

You sure did turn up the heat towards the end of your build. Tell the little guy congrats on his new car.
I guess this means you will be testing in September :)

[C.Plavan]

You sure did turn up the heat towards the end of your build. Tell the little guy congrats on his new car.
I guess this means you will be testing in September :)

Thanks- Yeah, I needed a goal to shoot for. Its amazing how much you can get done when you feel the pressure. There is still alot to do.

1. Install front splitter
2. Install rear diffuser
3. Install additional gauges with senders
4. Fabricate and weld in mounts for the rear wing
5. Install the dry sump when it gets here.
6. Fabricate and install a "firewall" for fuel cell

Like I said I'm gone every weekend this month...... so this is going to suck. I'll let you know which test day we are shooting for at BW when we get closer.

Do you remember the measurement from the ground to your front splitter by chance? My car is damn low without it.

[longislandwrx]

nice man. your body pretty much installed itself. how were the headlights/buckets?

[C.Plavan]

nice man. your body pretty much installed itself. how were the headlights/buckets?

It did. It was alot easier than I thought. However, I have done fiberglass on other cars, so maybe that helped.

The headlights/buckets were not that bad (remember to tape up the headlights when moving stuff around). Its the bottom of the hood that gave me trouble. I'm still not 100% happy with the bottom of the hood/fender clearance. I'm going to work on that a bit more before installing the mini latches. When I could not get things good, I moved to the next thing or corner, and sometimes it would fix itself. There is alot of "pulling" things into place.

[Brando]

No measurement on the splitter, but like you said months back...its a real pain to navigate driveways and trailers with it on. I pushed mine forward 2" which didn't help any. It's already beat-up but I suppose that's inevitable. I was planning to drop the nose an inch, i feel like mine points up some and is scooping air.

That's a short list of big tasks.

I received my Peterson 2 gallon oil tank, it look nice but larger than I anticipated. I'm probably going to install it on the wing support. The rest of the dysump kit comes in 10 days. Have you decided on mounting locations?

I feel you on the deadline. Mine was a CHP appointment. I went hard for 10 days and made huge progress.

[metalmaker12]

The body goes on fairly easy, it's just the tweaking that gets tricky, especially on the S.
My motors at machine shop getting measured out and I too am thinking dry sump, but it's price along with all my other engine build stuff is a bit over my budget. I might do it though.

[C.Plavan]

I'll be going dark for a bit. Hopefully when I return, the car will be completed and looking aggressive.

[Frank818]

We will miss you, don't forget your flashlight in the dark so you know where you are going and yes get that built and aggressive. :)

[C.Plavan]

Just a little update:

All the gauges are mounted. Oil pressure, oil temp, water temp, volt are all working. No leaks on the senders!!!! I will have to trouble shoot the boost gauge, its not working right now. I also can't hook up the A/F yet because the lack of exhaust. I also mounted my headlight switch. I went everywhere on the block to mount the senders. Kinda a pain, but it worked.

I ditched the digital display since you could not see it in the sun, and bought a 2nd car kit for my Traqdash (which you can see in direct sun). I just need to 3D print a mount for it and run the wire behind the dash.

crappy pic
http://i.imgur.com/zIWqIgzl.jpg

[GUNS]

Dude, that looks awesome! What are you using for the center console?

[C.Plavan]

Dude, that looks awesome! What are you using for the center console?

Thanks. No center console for me. The one they sent was way too big, and I really don't need one. I could always make one out of aluminum if needed.

[FFRSpec72]

Just a little update:
I ditched the digital display since you could not see it in the sun, and bought a 2nd car kit for my Traqdash (which you can see in direct sun). I just need to 3D print a mount for it and run the wire behind the dash.


So do you swap the data/gps unit between cars ? Where did you mount the data/gps unit ?

Also per your previous post, "race cars don't need headlights" !

[C.Plavan]

So do you swap the data/gps unit between cars ? Where did you mount the data/gps unit ?

Also per your previous post, "race cars don't need headlights" !

I don't remember saying anything about headlights......I use those all the time (Flashing slower cars to make sure they see me). I did say, turn signals, Ebrake stuff, windshield wiper (on an R no less), and trunk lights I would not need because its a race car.

The second car kit comes with power cord, extra GPS antenna, Traqdash Cable. I installed it right in front of shifter. I can easily remove the Traqdash and sensor unit between race cars now. With the Traqmate, you can select what car you are in at start up. So no need to make other changes.

[C.Plavan]

I finally perm mounted the hood with mini latches. I got it the best I could, I'm still not happy with the lower nose. I kept telling myself, "It's a race car, it does not need to be perfect".

Whats nice is that you can still adjust the studs of the mini latches to fine tune things after you drill.

The dry sump should be here Thursday along with some other cool parts :) . Either the front splitter or rear diffuser installation is next on my list.

http://i.imgur.com/JJ40aTql.png

[longislandwrx]

you can't measure the gaps at 120. looks great.

[Brando]

"It's a race car, it does not need to be perfect"

One of the great aspects of building the R. I have said that to myself umpteen times.

Glad Element tuning is finally delivering for you. My drysump shipped today and arrives Tuesday the 26th :)

Can't wait for the pictures of the product and installation

[Doowop]

so what dry sump are you getting? what about you Brandon? Can one of you guys do a post on what you found on dry sumps, options, price, etc...? it seems that it might be needed after all...

[C.Plavan]

so what dry sump are you getting? what about you Brandon? Can one of you guys do a post on what you found on dry sumps, options, price, etc...? it seems that it might be needed after all...

We both got the Element tuning kit...... But be warned. I ordered at the beginning of July..... There is a oil tank shortage also. So order now, but be prepared to wait a long time.

It all showed up yesterday. I'll take some pictures after I unpack the goodies.

I guess I can show these since everyone can order them now :P

http://i.imgur.com/xZZ326pl.png

[FFRSpec72]

I guess I can show these since everyone can order them now :P


You are slow man.

[C.Plavan]

You are slow man.

Not that slow, I just got them yesterday.

[D Clary]

Any instructions with the door vents. wondering about the door modification and inner aluminum.

[Frank818]

Can anyone refresh me with the benefits of the door vents? I know it's good, I just can't find again why. Pressurized air within the wheel wells (from rolling fast) can escape along the doors, is that it?

[C.Plavan]

The instructions are in the other thread from Jim. Basically, take the door and place the vent on the inside. Trace the vent. Measure ~3/4" inside what you traced, then cut. Then you use 3/16" rivets.

More down force is what they provide along with better cooling.

[C.Plavan]

Here is the dry sump kit. Alot of ARE parts. There is a special pump bracket that attaches to the A/C bracket. Then you have to have the A/C idler arm and pulley already. Then a bunch of -12 fitting$ and hose. I think I can weld a bracket to keep the tank in the rear.

http://i.imgur.com/FQOAhSXl.png

[bompus]

Details and pics on how you mounted the mini latches please :)

[Brando]

Chad is the De-aeration built into the Peterson oil tank? I didn't see one.
And how did you get the vents and canards so darn quick? Mine are in the mail and I thought I was on top of it!

[C.Plavan]

Chad is the De-aeration built into the Peterson oil tank? I didn't see one.
And how did you get the vents and canards so darn quick? Mine are in the mail and I thought I was on top of it!

Yes, the strainers etc are inside. The tank is two piece, so you can take the internal parts out.

I called a couple weeks ago to get more vent/mesh material. I just asked if they had the door vents/ canards ready yet. Jim threw the extra set they had for the blue car in a box since I already had an order coming to the Left coast. The canards look good (CF). I may paint the door vents a true black.

[C.Plavan]

Details and pics on how you mounted the mini latches please :)


Nothing really special on installing them. They are really easy. I did have to buy 4 additional elongated studs from the mini latch site (4" ones). The stock length ones would not reach in 4 areas. Also use thick fender washers on the studs (studs are 1/4" and the hood pin holes are 1/2") This also gives you some adjustment and "fudge" room. Also remember to double nut the studs with lock nuts once you have everything the way you want.

[longislandwrx]

those are surprisingly nice.

should have kept your killer b headers. they'll fit no problem now that you are ditching the oil cooler and pan.

[metalmaker12]

That is nice stuff, but entirely to much money IMO, just another example of how they get you, but it's a great upgrade for your ride.

[C.Plavan]

That is nice stuff, but entirely to much money IMO, just another example of how they get you, but it's a great upgrade for your ride.

What's too much money? The Dry sump? Or the door vents/canards?

If the dry sump, yes pricey, but much cheaper than a built motor.

If door vents and canards, $390 for both does not seem like a lot for a race car..... It's 1.5 race tires :)

[C.Plavan]

those are surprisingly nice.

should have kept your killer b headers. they'll fit no problem now that you are ditching the oil cooler and pan.


You still use the factory oil cooler. Plus, those headers are way too expensive for what you get. I was not impressed at all.

For anyone out there- I will have a basically new (<5 miles)Killer B oil pan/baffle/oil pickup for sale. I figure $550+ shipping is a good deal for the package. PM if you are interested.

[Doowop]

Did I read wrong or is it really $2500 for the kit without hoses, and $3500 for a complete kit!!!!:eek:
So the kit you got is $2500!!! just for those 4 pieces..... I should have been sitting down! WTF. Sorry, I'm just blown away by the price.
I am assuming you guys looked at other brands, etc..... and this was the best you found?

[C.Plavan]

Did I read wrong or is it really $2500 for the kit without hoses, and $3500 for a complete kit!!!!:eek:
So the kit you got is $2500!!! just for those 4 pieces..... I should have been sitting down! WTF. Sorry, I'm just blown away by the price.
I am assuming you guys looked at other brands, etc..... and this was the best you found?

Yes, we researched. The person that put the kit together blew up 4 motors. Since he installed the kit, no blown motors. Good enough for me.

This was one of the cheaper kits. Again, less than a blown race motor.

Things I have learned in 20 years of racing.
#1 Racing isn't cheap
#2 Do it right the first time, otherwise it will cost you twice as much
#3 Read #1 again
#4 Prepare for the worst
#5 Have fun

[Brando]

My oil starvation cost me a bottom end and turbo. That would have covered my drysump.
It took me 1 hard day of driving to spin my bearing. Granted an STI pan and accusump might have sufficed i'm not taking any chances.

[Doowop]

Hey guys, I'm not contesting the fact that the wrx motor might need an dry sump or that you guys bought it, I'm just blown away that some *******s think it's ok to charge that much money for something that cost 20% of that to fabricate, and thinks it's ok just because it is for a "racing" application.
I know that racing is not cheap, I've done that too, I just have questions about the subaru stuff think it's seems to blow for no reason except driving a little hard.

- Is the WRX/STI motor that ****ty that it just breaks down for driving it hard? I'm not familiar with subaru I used to race a old bimmer super hard and actually put an accusump in it as we were using part of the oval track as a section of track, and the oil pickup was on the wrong side at an angle, but It doesn't seem that that many car in the basic SCCA circuit had or needed a dry sump. Is that a big issue with subaru then? what is the exact issue?
- As a reference that I have right now in racing conditions, what are the blue or red car using?
- are they any actual data or consensus that show what people are mostly using in racing on suby motors? and when I say racing, I mean road racing, a straight line or left turn only is not racing, and autocrosses don't really show long term stuff.
- I guess you guys bought the kit without the hoses? did you price out what the hoses will run? It seems that $1000 for the hoses and fitting is a bit much (I know that AN fitting and hoses are expensive, I used a ton of them before)

[metalmaker12]

I am not racing it until I get the dry sump, just easy driving

[Mechie3]

I would ask turn in concepts what they use on their STI track car. They've set several records. Though it's not a tube frame purebred racecar so the lateral g are likely lower. Subaru had a road racing team too and several others have campaigned subies. I'd look to see what they all did.

The dry sump looks to be a cast piece. That combined with a likely low sales volume means high cost. Couple that with the guys who need this thing usually have the money or manage to co.e up with it doesn't provide much incentive to lower costs.

[Brando]

They charge $700 for the hoses on the 818 instead of their regular $1,000... not that it affects the bottom line all that much.

[Doowop]

thanks guys. Sorry Chad, didn't mean to highjack your thread, I'll start a specific one in the R section

[Mitch Wright]

The Phoenix Grand Am GS STi team ran the OE Sti pan.

[C.Plavan]

1. There is a/will be an issue running these motors on race tracks with sticky tires.
2. The 818R will exaggerate these oiling issues
3. The dry sump both Brandon and I bought is from a shop that races, and has experienced multiple engine losses due to road racing
4. I'm not going to risk my race motor build when I know what can happen.
5. My vintage Porsche has a dry sump in it, and it is a flat six. I have never had any issues.
6. Later flat sixes from Porsche with a wet sump would blow up on the track with sticky tires after awhile. The same issues of the oil going into the heads because its a flat motor. I have seen it happen.
7. The tracks I will be racing on have high speed sweepers or long NASCAR banking. This will also exaggerate the oil getting stuck in the head away from the pickup for extended periods.
8. I chose to get a dry sump, I didn't want one, but it was inevitable based on the knowledge/research.

[Doowop]

Thanks Chad. :cool:

[Hindsight]

RE #6 above, a friend of mine bought a Cayman with a blown motor recently. It was used as a race car and spun a main bearing on the track. Stock oiling setup. So it supports what you mention above.

Why wouldn't an Accusump suffice for the 818? Seems like a more economic and simple option.

[C.Plavan]

RE #6 above, a friend of mine bought a Cayman with a blown motor recently. It was used as a race car and spun a main bearing on the track. Stock oiling setup. So it supports what you mention above.

Why wouldn't an Accusump suffice for the 818? Seems like a more economic and simple option.

I saw that happen on pre- 2005-2009 Caymans/Boxsters/911's. Some not immediatly, but after a bit, the bearings will eventually go due to the lack of oil. This has nothing to do with the Intermediate Bearing failures on Porsches of that period.

As for the Accumsump, my only issue is the total time it would help boost the oil pressure. For the tracks I race on, the sweepers/banking are long. Way too long for an Accusump to provide the additional oil.

[C.Plavan]

Canards are on. I honestly do not think you need the additional support strut on the canards. I even have the struts here. I'll find out the first test day :). With 4 bolts on each side it is plenty strong. I'll throw a GoPro on and watch to see if there is flex.

I need to notch the front race splitter and move it forward. I just have a jack supporting it.


http://i.imgur.com/YTFNwJdl.png

http://i.imgur.com/KJLnCrUl.png

[wallace18]

Boy that car is looking great! I bet you can't wait to take it out for a test run. Congrats so far on a very nice build.

[metalmaker12]

Canards are on. I honestly do not think you need the additional support strut on the canards. I even have the struts here. I'll find out the first test day :). With 4 bolts on each side it is plenty strong. I'll throw a GoPro on and watch to see if there is flex.

I need to notch the front race splitter and move it forward. I just have a jack supporting it.


http://i.imgur.com/YTFNwJdl.png

http://i.imgur.com/KJLnCrUl.png

Looking good!

Hey you running an awic, the air to air gets insufficient air flow( even in R setup) and will heat soak. I ask because the subaru wrx Usdm ecu in a maf setup can only run the iat in the maf which is pre turbo and will not accurately control detonation and toast your motor just like mine did. I would get an awic kit along with your sick dry sump.

[C.Plavan]

Looking good!

Hey you running an awic, the air to air gets insufficient air flow( even in R setup) and will heat soak. I ask because the subaru wrx Usdm ecu in a maf setup can only run the iat in the maf which is pre turbo and will not accurately control detonation and toast your motor just like mine did. I would get an awic kit along with your sick dry sump.

I have a Mishimoto Intercooler. I didn't want to go AWIC, I have some fans that I will mount on the intercooler to push air through. The lack of a real windshield should help along with the fans wired in. At least I hope.

[C.Plavan]

Race splitter installed. I still need to install the struts on the splitter (maybe tonight).

Key piece for splitter/diffuser install: 3/16" large head rivets, and 3/16" fender washers to back the rivets up. This will make a very strong bond.
http://i.imgur.com/JeuCZ9Yl.png

I pushed the splitter forward like on the red car.
http://i.imgur.com/jrhSNMJl.png

http://i.imgur.com/fMrRIAFl.png

[JeromeS13]

Are you leaving your splitter permanently installed? I still need to make mine *somewhat* easily removable for loading/unloading onto a trailer...

[C.Plavan]

Are you leaving your splitter permanently installed? I still need to make mine *somewhat* easily removable for loading/unloading onto a trailer...

Race ramps will be my best friend

[nkw8181]

Looking good

[longislandwrx]

You still use the factory oil cooler. Plus, those headers are way too expensive for what you get. I was not impressed at all.

joking about the header. but really no actual oil cooler?

[bstuke]

Race splitter installed. I still need to install the struts on the splitter (maybe tonight).
Key piece for splitter/diffuser install: 3/16" large head rivets, and 3/16" fender washers to back the rivets up. This will make a very strong bond.
I pushed the splitter forward like on the red car. Has anyone toyed with the idea of making the whole nose removable for transport? Could it be done? I ask because I have a buddy that AutoX's a Civic, and he simply removes the nose splitter and all.

[C.Plavan]

joking about the header. but really no actual oil cooler?

Ok. I'm slow. :)

I can always add a cooler later (I would prefer one). The Element guys are just running the stock one. Keep in mind we are adding a 4+quart external oil tank too, that is more oil to heat up.

I have my oil temp gauge all set up. I will know more after the first test day.



Has anyone toyed with the idea of making the whole nose removable for transport? Could it be done? I ask because I have a buddy that AutoX's a Civic, and he simply removes the nose splitter and all.

I'm glad you are back!

I'm sure anything is possible. For me, I would be happy to spend the ~$300 or so on the raceramps for my trailer ( http://www.raceramps.com/trailer-ramps-loading-and-hauling-extensions.aspx ) (amazon.com has 10% off right now). The are super light, come in different lengths/height/approach angles and get the job done. Since I have a winch on my trailer, it is super easy to load the car in the trailer without boinking the nose up. I just need to measure the approach angle I need with the pushed forward race splitter.

Fyi- I bought these to get my race jack under the 818R- They are awesome. Make sure to get the one without the 1.5" stop on the end, it may hit splitter before car is up on them. I have not tried them with the front splitter on yet. If the splitter hits them, I will just throw them under the rear wheels. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZAGMEA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[D Clary]

I have used dry sump systems in the past, cold oil is more of a problem than hot. The volume of oil will keep it cool enough but the tolerances in the dry sump pump do not like high load on cold oil.

[C.Plavan]

I have used dry sump systems in the past, cold oil is more of a problem than hot. The volume of oil will keep it cool enough but the tolerances in the dry sump pump do not like high load on cold oil.

The key is proper warm up like the Porsches. I have ~12/13 quarts in my 911 without a thermostat. I let her run for about 10min before a session to get the oil ready to go.

[C.Plavan]

Teaser pics:

3d printed a mount for my Traqmate. Came out perfect. It attaches to the steering column screw mounts.
http://i.imgur.com/jZJs6hQl.png

Door Vents are on:

I chose to use silicon and a few black rivets for a cleaner look.
http://i.imgur.com/MqbFEQ7l.png


Front splitter started getting some hardware also:

http://i.imgur.com/3f5O6hll.png

[bstuke]

What splitter hardware Chad?

[C.Plavan]

What splitter hardware Chad?

I bought it from APR's website. They have all sorts of stuff.

[Brando]

Your whip is looking sweet. The door vents look better than I anticipated. Black rivets was a good call.
I look forward to your next full car picture with the front aero on.

When are you going to start with your wing mount? I am curious to see what you come up with.

[C.Plavan]

Your whip is looking sweet. The door vents look better than I anticipated. Black rivets was a good call.
I look forward to your next full car picture with the front aero on.

When are you going to start with your wing mount? I am curious to see what you come up with.

Thanks Brandon. It's coming together. I still don't know if it will be ready for a test day in 3 weeks. If its not right, I wont go. If I didn't have to do the dry sump stuff, I think I could make it. BTW- how many ports does your tank have? Does it have 1 vent on top, 2 middle, 1 bottom?

I bought 26ft of 1x1 square bar for the wing mount. I have some idea's, but I wont know until I start cutting and tack welding stuff. I want it removable like yours.

[Brando]

I don't have it front of me but I had to get the dual scavenge because I couldn't find any units on the market for single scavenge.
I was told I can just plug one up.

32869

[C.Plavan]

I don't have it front of me but I had to get the dual scavenge because I couldn't find any units on the market for single scavenge.
I was told I can just plug one up.

32869

Yeah- that is my tank, but the issue is their tanks have two vents, we only have one...... I have an email in to Phil.

[Frank818]

Front splitter started getting some hardware also:

http://i.imgur.com/3f5O6hll.png

How necessary are these? The splitter is prone to failure under pressure at xMPH?

[Brando]

I think it's to provide rigidity not avoid failure. Wayne said he put a gopro on his and watched the splitter bend down over an inch. Mine is rather flimsy in the middle section.

[Frank818]

But that's what happens on F1 cars, their front spoiler bends. And before the regulation changed years ago, it was bending a lot more.

[Mechie3]

But that's what happens on F1 cars, their front spoiler bends. And before the regulation changed years ago, it was bending a lot more.

That's because they were designed to bend and at specific angles at specific speeds. The lower inlets of the F458 grill is like this too. It's a way to meet static design rules during tech (ie: spoiler max height, distance from road surface) but achieve different performance while racing (ie: higher effective height, closer to ground). If the splitter wasn't designed that way to begin with then you can't blanket statement say a bending spoiler/splitter is beneficial.

Splitters also work by extending out into a high pressure zone created by the front of the car. Wings work by differential airflow over the top and bottom surfaces.

[Wayne Presley]

I would put braces from the radiator frame down to the center of the splitter at the front and rear in the center opening. It will impart the downforce directly to the frame and support the structure of the splitter.

[Frank818]

If the splitter wasn't designed that way to begin with then you can't blanket statement say a bending spoiler/splitter is beneficial.

I understand and agree, but I don't know if FFR designed it that way. Is it? I guess not.

[C.Plavan]

I would put braces from the radiator frame down to the center of the splitter at the front and rear in the center opening. It will impart the downforce directly to the frame and support the structure of the splitter.

Good idea. I did not like how everything is forced on just the bumper.


Splitter hardware on. I'll be making some brackets and mount them to the crash box on the inside sides, and inside nose. It will connect it to the frame like Wayne said.

http://i.imgur.com/rXjLC4bl.png

[D Clary]

Where did you get the splitter hardware?

[bstuke]

Where did you get the splitter hardware?http://aprperformance.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=83&Itemid=44

[C.Plavan]

Some pics of it on the ground with the new front stuff.

http://i.imgur.com/aQ13Sgrl.png

http://i.imgur.com/J1ycx3bl.png

http://i.imgur.com/2q77wG6l.png

http://i.imgur.com/RtTtr7Yl.png

[GUNS]

Dude....that looks badass! How do the canards attach?

[C.Plavan]

Dude....that looks badass! How do the canards attach?

Thanks.

They attach with provided hardware. 4- 1/4" bolts/washers on each diveplane/canard. They are plenty strong, but I have support struts I can add if they deflect (I'll check with GoPro)

[Brando]

That looks sick

[Frank818]

Car looks great, but also looks pretty dry in your area, Chad.

About the front splitter, do we know at what speed is starts to deflect?

[wleehendrick]

Car looks great, but also looks pretty dry in your area, Chad.

Ummm... yeah! It's all of CA:

32914

Think the fires have been bad so far? When the Santa Ana winds kick up in October, it's gonna be bad. Hope you have enough defensible space, Chad!

[C.Plavan]

Dry? its always like this in the summer. But we are in a drought too. Drought or not, it looks the same.

Defensible space- They started the landscape in the back yard last week. They also started a few more houses out here. If a fire did break out, I have access to some big, big dozers down the street :)


http://i.imgur.com/cFrnwrjh.jpg

[longislandwrx]

looks great

I hope the next CF parts offered are some big *** scoops to fit over the side scoop exige style

some more dark in in rear would balance it a little.

32922

[wleehendrick]

I hope the next CF parts offered are some big *** scoops to fit over the side scoop exige style

If FFR doesn't, I know Craig (Mechie) is thinking about designing some. I'd be all over them.

[wleehendrick]

Nice lot! I wish I had that much space. Being near the coast, our lots are tiny, but at least it's green!

32919

[longislandwrx]

32928

and I don't even water that often ;)

come November though it will be brown town around these parts

[C.Plavan]

looks great

I hope the next CF parts offered are some big *** scoops to fit over the side scoop exige style

some more dark in in rear would balance it a little.

32922

Yes- I would be all over those.

[C.Plavan]

Nice lot! I wish I had that much space. Being near the coast, our lots are tiny, but at least it's green!

32919

Thanks, we have over 2 acres. - I lived in the OC for awhile. I could not wait to get out of there. Weather is great, but traffic and cost of living sucked. My house now is almost half the $ of my house down in Ladera Ranch. Also 12x the lot size and bigger sq/ft..... win win win

[Brando]

I feel inclined to defend the OC but I will take this up with you on the track buddy :)

[C.Plavan]

I feel inclined to defend the OC but I will take this up with you on the track buddy :)

Haha. I loved the area, just not the traffic and cost of living. It was not worth it for me.

[C.Plavan]

As I thought, longer Race Ramps are in my future.

I'm getting ready to trailer the car over to my buddies house where we will fabricate a rear wing mount. He has a better welder, and more experience. He races also, and has what I call "Farmer Engineering". He can fix anything.

http://i.imgur.com/07yHzQxl.png

Hopefully finished soon-
http://i.imgur.com/EF333Uql.png

[apexanimal]

thing looks mean

[Frank818]

Killer splitter. :)

[Mechie3]

So you're saying get to it and start to see what I can do about those scoops?

[C.Plavan]

So you're saying get to it and start to see what I can do about those scoops?

Yes please :)

[Brando]

Like you said, Race Ramps all the way. Gotta go big, the RR-TR-11-2 is in every 818R owners future 33042
I can't get over how light they are

[C.Plavan]

Like you said, Race Ramps all the way. Gotta go big, the RR-TR-11-2 is in every 818R owners future 33042
I can't get over how light they are

I bought the 7' ones. 5.5 degree incline which should be fine with my trailer door (I will remove my diamond plate ramp- I wont need it anymore). Amazon has 10% off, and a $20 rebate. If for some reason they dont work, I can return them. But I should be perfectly fine. 11' ones are loooooong!

The ones to get the jack under the car were like 8 degree incline, the splitter would barely rub, just barely.

[wallace18]

I left my ramp on and just put a 2x4 under it so the race ramp work with it.

[C.Plavan]

I left my ramp on and just put a 2x4 under it so the race ramp work with it.

I was thinking about that, but I hate bringing 2x4's everywhere. I want to be 2x4 free! :)

[Frank818]

Nice Porsche you got there, Chad.

[C.Plavan]

If you recall a few pages back, I showed how to use the provided brake proportioning valve with the added knob. No need to move the valve, just add the additional kit to mount it to the dash. I now have control of the valve while racing.

Now I just need to tidy up the lines/wires.

Easy Peasy
http://i.imgur.com/MHxYiZfl.png


Oh, and I bit the bullet and ordered the AWIC from Wayne. If anyone wants a brand spanking new Mishimoto WRX/STI TMIC with hoses/clamps let me know (Cost $580 new) $450+ shipping and its yours. It is a must for WRX donors and a noticable improvement for over STI IC's! I literately have maybe 4 miles on it.

[D Clary]

Have you got your rear wing mounted yet. very interested how you accomplish that. Rear of my car is filling up and places to support it are getting trickier. The pics of the blue car from what I can see is the lightest set up. Brandos looks a little heavy. I wish FFR could see their way clear to at least send detailed pic even if they do not want to produce it. Also have you weighed you car yet? I was wondering if anyone had made the 818kg.

[C.Plavan]

Have you got your rear wing mounted yet. very interested how you accomplish that. Rear of my car is filling up and places to support it are getting trickier. The pics of the blue car from what I can see is the lightest set up. Brandos looks a little heavy. I wish FFR could see their way clear to at least send detailed pic even if they do not want to produce it. Also have you weighed you car yet? I was wondering if anyone had made the 818kg.

Not yet. I just need to take it to my buddies house this weekend. I have not weighed it yet since the same buddy has my scales. I can weigh it over there once we are done welding.

[FFRSpec72]

If you recall a few pages back, I showed how to use the provided brake proportioning valve with the added knob. No need to move the valve, just add the additional kit to mount it to the dash. I now have control of the valve while racing.

Any reason you chose dash and not console or left side bar?

[C.Plavan]

Any reason you chose dash and not console or left side bar?

Because that is where I'm use to it being (other race cars), and you can see it with a helmet on to know which direction to turn.

[Mechie3]

Yes please :)

I finally got ahold of a guy to discuss making these (scoops). I heard some unsavory things about the previous shop I had gotten quotes from so didn't go back to them. I got a recommendation from a friend that used to race karts of a guy that does amazing composites work for Indycary, IMSA, lemans, all sorts of stuff. Problem was, I had a name. No contact info, no company that he worked for, no address, nothing. All internet references to him stopped suddenly in 2009. Found him yesterday and chatted on the phone with him, sent him some pictures and plan to meet with him later this week. Hopefully I'll have more info sooner than later. :D

[Brando]

Can you get your car ready to run by September 27-28? Buttonwillow with Northern California Racing club.
Hows the dry sump coming along? Wing secured? How about an update amigo i look forward to them.

[Kurk818]

Let me know how that goes. I was planning on making some for mine as well out of CF. How aggressive of openings were you thinking? Similar to the photo? Wider that the rear quarter panel?


I finally got ahold of a guy to discuss making these (scoops). I heard some unsavory things about the previous shop I had gotten quotes from so didn't go back to them. I got a recommendation from a friend that used to race karts of a guy that does amazing composites work for Indycary, IMSA, lemans, all sorts of stuff. Problem was, I had a name. No contact info, no company that he worked for, no address, nothing. All internet references to him stopped suddenly in 2009. Found him yesterday and chatted on the phone with him, sent him some pictures and plan to meet with him later this week. Hopefully I'll have more info sooner than later. :D

[C.Plavan]

Can you get your car ready to run by September 27-28? Buttonwillow with Northern California Racing club.
Hows the dry sump coming along? Wing secured? How about an update amigo i look forward to them.

Sorry Brandon- I have not really even touched the car. We had the landscaping and concrete in full effect (Backyard now looks great BTW). I did not want to advertise what was in my garage with all the workers out at the house 14 hours a day. Plus, its been hot. I should get the bug and start installing the stuff here soon. I did receive Wayne's AWIC kit last week.

[C.Plavan]

Started working on the car again. I busted out the 3D printer designing again for brackets to mount the doors. The brackets also close off a hole to the cockpit.

The doors are perm mounted the way I like it. Three bolts and I can get the door off (one on the pictured bracket, one on the top, one in the rear in the door jam).

Its real handy to check the iWire fues boxes on the passenger side with the door off. You dont have to climb under the dash. All you do is pop the door off.

Next, is to start mounting the AWIC in the rear so we know the clearance when we weld the wing mount on.

http://i.imgur.com/grNeP0kl.png

[Doowop]

Chad, could you put a couple more pics of the door mounting? I'm interested in different ideas to mount those. Also, did you do anything as far as closing up the inside of the door? thanks

[C.Plavan]

Chad, could you put a couple more pics of the door mounting? I'm interested in different ideas to mount those. Also, did you do anything as far as closing up the inside of the door? thanks

I don't have other pictures right now. All I did is use some rubber trim seal on the bottom of the door (FFR supplied) to cushion. Then on the rear of the door, I just threw a rivnut on the door jam on the side pod, the drilled through the door and used one of the above black screws/washers.

For the top front of the door- I just drilled a 3/16th hole in the front fender/hood jam -then through the top of the door (You can's see it with hood on- its all hidden from view). Then I ran a long M5 bolt through it. I used a nylok and a big washer on the other side (inner door). You can reach the lock nut from the inside easy. So if I need to remove the door, its only 3 easy bolts. Its very sturdy.

I have an intrusion plate on the drivers side so I dont plan on closing up the doors. I'll just probably paint them black on the inside. (They did send me inner door liners- But I'm not sure I will use them)

[C.Plavan]

I had some time to get a few more things done....
http://i.imgur.com/cDBcovLl.jpg

[Frank818]

Keep the label, plz.

[Scargo]

I think a couple of wires going to it and you are golden. If you really want to impress, a plexiglass encased circuit board on top would be trick.

[flynntuna]

The down side.... Keep it under 88 mph.

[Wayne Presley]

AWWW, you removed the VCP sticker, that'll cost you at least 20 HP :cool:

[C.Plavan]

AWWW, you removed the VCP sticker, that'll cost you at least 20 HP :cool:

It didn't come with one Wayne. I need a $300 credit :)

[Wayne Presley]

What color do you want?

[K3LAG]

It didn't come with one Wayne. I need a $300 credit :)

Mine didn't come with one either.

Larry

[C.Plavan]

Black or red would be fine. You really don't have to send it if you want. I think I will survive :) .

[C.Plavan]

I had a busy day yesterday. I loaded up the 818R on the race trailer and towed it over to my friend's (Andrew) house. We are friends from college and race a Chumpcar E30 together. He also races Spec E30.

The 7' long Race Ramps worked perfectly with my trailer. I also kept my existing extended flip out on the trailer door (Bob in Cincy's idea) so the approach was even better. Thanks Bob.

"Farmer Engineering" has started on the rear wing mount. He is a much better welder than I am. We went through a game plan for fabbing the mount up. He also had some good ideas on more support for the rear bumper (essentially there really is none from FFR- unless if you call a few rivets and 6 screws support).

The best quote from him was... "I usually get my best fabricating ideas after a couple of beers working on it at night".... lol

(His home shop)
http://i.imgur.com/yrYgKv0l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/jyw7Yohl.jpg

Side note: our local PCA region had a car show/ Oktoberfest party last night. My Spyder was voted "Best of Show" out of 60+ Porsches. :) (I washed it for the first time in 6 months..... lol)

http://i.imgur.com/x3eBoDJl.jpg

[Scargo]

RE, longislandwrx's pic (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=32922&d=1409252123&thumb=1), it seems you have not utilized the side scoops. Do you have plans for them?
I'm still looking at options. It looks like a rectangle 15"x11"x4" minimum would fit back there, in front of the rear wheel.

[C.Plavan]

RE, longislandwrx's pic (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=32922&d=1409252123&thumb=1), it seems you have not utilized the side scoops. Do you have plans for them?
I'm still looking at options. It looks like a rectangle 15"x11"x4" minimum would fit back there, in front of the rear wheel.

I have no plans as of yet. If Mechie comes out with some CF scoops i may jump on them. Being that the car has a A2W intercooler, I don't see the side vents as being as crucial. Depending on my oil temps, I will eventually throw a cooler behind the drivers side vent.

[Brando]

It took me a while to notice those were race ramps in the picture. At first glance it looks like you have some crazy fab'd up splitter.

Your white is so shiny. Did you do anything to get that or is it just good lighting?

[C.Plavan]

It took me a while to notice those were race ramps in the picture. At first glance it looks like you have some crazy fab'd up splitter.

Your white is so shiny. Did you do anything to get that or is it just good lighting?

Haha- Yeah those are just the mini ramps so I can get a jack under it. It does look funky.

Just good lighting. I have not done anything to the finish.

[longislandwrx]

Looks awesome Chad.

on another note, has anyone considered extending the hood/bumper to reduce the exposure of the headlights?

this picture was just a perfect example.

34597

[C.Plavan]

Looks awesome Chad.

on another note, has anyone considered extending the hood/bumper to reduce the exposure of the headlights?

this picture was just a perfect example.

34597

Thanks-

I kinda like how the lights look now. I think any changes there would not look right (adding something in)

[D Clary]

Just curious, you didn't vent the hood. The blue FFr car has small vents, the red are large. I am still up in the air myself. I would kind of like to see the red car in the wind tunnel to see how the aero is in the front end.

[Brando]

What aluminum panels did you remove to get the most out of the vents? Obviously the rear side of the splash guard, but did you remove any of the other panels to let it breath more?

[C.Plavan]

I just have not decided on the front hood cut outs yet. I don't know if I'm going big vents like the Red Car, or small vents like the blue car.

Brandon- I left off the rear splash guards and those rearward triangle pieces.

[C.Plavan]

BTW- Rear wing mount has started.

http://i.imgur.com/GX4jdrHl.jpg

[Brando]

Do you have any concerns with the tire kicking something into your water or brake lines with that aluminum panel removed?
Running Buttonwillows 13CW again for some redemption this Saturday with Speed Ventures. I'm trying to get my times down before meeting you out there ;)

[C.Plavan]

Do you have any concerns with the tire kicking something into your water or brake lines with that aluminum panel removed?
Running Buttonwillows 13CW again for some redemption this Saturday with Speed Ventures. I'm trying to get my times down before meeting you out there ;)

I ran my brake lines down the center tunnel, and I have the aluminum coolant tubes. I'm not too worried. Time will tell.

Bring it! :) I'm jealous. have fun! BTW- how did you end up hooking up the dry sump with the vent lines?


I finished the Rear Diffuser- I just need to pop it on when I get the car back.

http://i.imgur.com/u1HwGNBl.jpg

[Brando]

As it stands I have the extra oil tank scavenge port connected to PCV. I need to get a hold of the guys over at element because I rather plug the hole up and keep the PCV from drawing air from the oil tank. The vent just goes to a filter right now but I am looking into a swirl tank. That vent spits little dirty oil grit balls everywhere

[RM1SepEx]

Chad, you ran the diffuser strakes to the rear, FFR ran them towards the front of the diffuser, any theory concerning what works best? Does it really matter?

[Frank818]

That rear diffuser doesn't look CF.

[metalmaker12]

Just curious, you didn't vent the hood. The blue FFr car has small vents, the red are large. I am still up in the air myself. I would kind of like to see the red car in the wind tunnel to see how the aero is in the front end.


Large amounts of air travels under the hood and over the windshield. I don't see the need for the larger vents unless they blocked off under the hood.

[D Clary]

I don't know how they have ducted the air under the hood. Looking at mine, with all of the inner shielding in place there is not much area for the air to get out. I thing that is why they added the larger vents. My question would be, Do they loose or gain down force with the disruption of air going over the hood. I am hoping they can do another wind tunnel to test their new pieces and this venting.

[C.Plavan]

Don't forget my car has the door vents. Those will dump alot of air out too.

My rear diffuser is the crappy Gen 1 "carbon fiber" piece. I painted the bottom black since it was fiberglass ugly (not that you will really see it). I based the strakes off of other race cars I see. Granted, the lowest pressure is at the start of the diffuser, but there is no real angle at the start of the FFR diffuser, so I pushed them back.

Joe at FFR is sending me the flat bottom aluminum since my car did not come with it. With the Dry sump, I can have a total flat bottom race car.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Joe at FFR is sending me the flat bottom aluminum since my car did not come with it. With the Dry sump, I can have a total flat bottom race car.

Hi Chad
The bottom engine cover is the start of the diffuser. It slopes up a couple of inches from front edge to back edge.
Bob

[bstuke]

Since opening doors is out, Wayne and I were looking at the possibility of simply trimming the doors at an angle so the fronts leave more room overall. I have not dry fit or even mocked them up that way, but it seems like a valid option. It would have somewhat the Viper look...
34673

[07FIREBLADE]

Did you just rivet the strakes to the diffuser? I can't quite make out the way you mounted the strakes. It is just a pit too much black to tell.

[C.Plavan]

Hi Chad
The bottom engine cover is the start of the diffuser. It slopes up a couple of inches from front edge to back edge.
Bob

Thanks Bob- I should of waited then :) I can just move or extend them. I like the idea of extending them back (or towards the front of the car I should say).



Did you just rivet the strakes to the diffuser? I can't quite make out the way you mounted the strakes. It is just a pit too much black to tell.

Yes, I just used large head 3/16" rivets.


Some rear wing mount tease pictures.
http://i.imgur.com/sDIIoIgl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/1sOhJral.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/oickIoTl.jpg

[FFRSpec72]

Some rear wing mount tease pictures.

Definitely interested in how this goes and your final design, I did not get the wing yet as I wanted to see how folks were going to mount it and have it secure.

[wleehendrick]

Chad, you ran the diffuser strakes to the rear, FFR ran them towards the front of the diffuser, any theory concerning what works best? Does it really matter?

I'm not an aerodynamics expert, but as I understand it, the strakes are to create laminar flow, minimizing turbulence as the air exiting the diffuser is decelerated and rejoins the ambient flow. Therefore, I would think running the strakes to end, as Chad did, would be more effective. Looking at single chambered race diffusers that use strakes, they usually go all the way to the rear. It would take CFD or a wind-tunnel to definitively answer, and it probably doesn't make a huge difference, but I'll mount mine rearward simply because it looks cooler. :cool:

[C.Plavan]

Alright- More progress on the rear wing mount. Tack welded and level. We still need to add additional crossbars and gussets. Its really over engineered.

We will be adding a piece to act as a rear bumper (about 3 1/2 feet long). It will go into the channel in the bumper (above bottom vent). I didn't want to have it part of the wing structure, but it just works to go right off of it.

The Dry Sump oil tank will be hung off the driver side mount with custom mounts welded on.

http://i.imgur.com/DksyLeIl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/SKco80gl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/xkDykJ0l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/gGKJpmWl.jpg

[C.Plavan]

More pictures- Oil tank mount is being worked on now. Once that is on, then we just need to weld on the wing mount channels and drill 4 holes. (removable wing)

Rear push bar
http://i.imgur.com/TKTS9zFl.png

crossbar
http://i.imgur.com/1ia1ck0l.png

[FFRSpec72]

More pictures- Oil tank mount is being worked on now. Once that is on, then we just need to weld on the wing mount channels and drill 4 holes. (removable wing)


Looking good, is the push bar going to be Looking strong enough for a toe hook ?

[longislandwrx]

looks beefy. nice work.

[Frank818]

I like what you did.

[Santiago]

Chad, can we get a shot of it now from the inside with the bumper fascia on like you have above? Does the push bar sit within that little bumper channel formed in the fascia or is it flush with the lower portion of it?

Looks nice!

Best,
-j

[Pearldrummer7]

Wow! That's really cool. Is that 1.5" square steel or 1"?

[C.Plavan]

Chad, can we get a shot of it now from the inside with the bumper fascia on like you have above? Does the push bar sit within that little bumper channel formed in the fascia or is it flush with the lower portion of it?

Looks nice!

Best,
-j

Thanks Guys. I'm really happy with it. My Buddy Andrew thankfully likes doing this kind of stuff. I told him he should make a template and sell it as a kit. But every chassis would be different/not square.

I don't have a picture yet, but yes that push bar fits in the bumper channel above the lower rear vent area perfectly. Nicely hidden. We gave it a little clearance so it didn't rub on the bumper. A tap from behind will not ruin my trans now.

We are using 1" square tubing 1/8" thick to match the chassis square tubing (FYI- the chassis square tubing is a little thinner than the 1/8th thickness we are using). Once it is fully welded and powder coated/painted, it will look like what should of been there originally from FFR for an R.

It will be plenty strong for a tow hook.

[C.Plavan]

More progress on the Oil tank wing mount-

http://i.imgur.com/7R9GsmSl.png

http://i.imgur.com/QzPemVll.png

http://i.imgur.com/A1MazbZl.png

Its almost finished. We just need to weld in a small support to strengthen the bottom of the oil tank mount.

Next is the actual wing mount channels! Then after that, its time to fully weld everything up. Then we are done.

[FFRSpec72]

More progress on the Oil tank wing mount

Looking real good, couple of questions

(1) s this the only tank required?
(2) How large is it ?
(3) Do you have any pics on how you are going to route the lines ?
(4) Did you pull the engine to install the dry sump on the engine ?

[C.Plavan]

Looking real good, couple of questions

(1) s this the only tank required?
(2) How large is it ?
(3) Do you have any pics on how you are going to route the lines ?
(4) Did you pull the engine to install the dry sump on the engine ?


1. Oil tank, yes. I will also have a 1 liter vent can also.
2. Tank is 8qts, but you do not run it full. It is about 6" in diameter not counting the mounts or nozzles. it is around 22" high.
3. I have not routed the lines yet since I needed to mount tank first
4. I'm not pulling the motor to install. Just remove firewall for more access to front of motor. There will be plenty of room to install with motor in.

[FFRSpec72]

4. I'm not pulling the motor to install. Just remove firewall for more access to front of motor. There will be plenty of room to install with motor in.

Thanks much for the answers, on #4 do I assume you are not pulling the engine to remove the oil pan and replace with the dry sump plate (pan, whatever its called)? I'm just trying to see how far I can go on the build before I have to make the choice

[C.Plavan]

You should have plenty of room under the car. I may take off the headers, the hardest part will be getting the Killer B pan off. Besides laying on you back, it should not be too hard.

[bstuke]

Then after that fully weld everything up and we are done.Can you do two and sell me one please? If I tried to do something like that it would look like a corkscrew..

[Mechie3]

Thanks Guys. I'm really happy with it. My Buddy Andrew thankfully likes doing this kind of stuff. I told him he should make a template and sell it as a kit. But every chassis would be different/not square.

He could make it using rod ends. Fully weld up the majority of the frame and then have it attach via clevis joints and/or rod ends. It allows for differences between various frames, makes it easy to remove if you ever need to, and makes it readily available to others (for a cost, of course).

[FFRSpec72]

He could make it using rod ends. Fully weld up the majority of the frame and then have it attach via clevis joints and/or rod ends. It allows for differences between various frames, makes it easy to remove if you ever need to, and makes it readily available to others (for a cost, of course).

Makes fitting it in a USPS flat rate box easier, now only if the USPS made a flat rate box that big

[D Clary]

Do be carefull not to overfill the tank, ask me how I know. huge mess

[drdracing]

Do you have any specs or plans on the wing support? Thanks, Rick

[C.Plavan]

Do you have any specs or plans on the wing support? Thanks, Rick

Not really- Just taking measurements as we go.

He has no desire in making a "Kit". He says I have a "One Off Custom Design" haha.

I think people should be pressing on FFR for an easier solution. They can cut and weld the pieces at the factory for the R wing mount.

[metalmaker12]

Do be carefull not to overfill the tank, ask me how I know. huge mess
You have to pump it in intervals and be cautious of the amount in tank and how much your putting in.

[C.Plavan]

We added 2 more push bar supports. Andrew fully welded the push bar. Now its time for the full weld, then wing supports. It's just about done.

http://i.imgur.com/hKdJ0Efl.png

[C.Plavan]

WE GOT WINGAGE-

Fully welded, holes drilled in wing mounts & pinned for easy removal to open rear trunk. All is left is some plasma cutting of the the wing channels to get rid of some weight, grinder cleanup, and cutting the fiberglass. Wing is securely mounted and stout. Check off one of the hard things to do on the 818R-

http://i.imgur.com/PjzJEuel.png


http://i.imgur.com/TZUPgv2l.png

[Scargo]

Nice! Looks NASCAR ready and capable of gluing tires to the pavement.

[Rasmus]

Nice work. I like the use of pins for the wing mount in particular.

[C.Plavan]

Nice work. I like the use of pins for the wing mount in particular.

Thanks- I copied that from Brando's fabricator :)

[metalmaker12]

Nice approach and dual purpose!!!

[Santiago]

Yes! Good to see another DETAILED wing-mount fab job. Looks great.

-j

p.s. - You should caption that first picture: instead of "This is the view most cars will see on track" it should read "This is why you lost to the 818R."

[C.Plavan]

Thanks guys- This really is all my friends work. I'll paint everything once it is back in my garage.

He busted out the plasma cutter.
http://i.imgur.com/COkLFjHl.png

[Hindsight]

Looking good! Have you chosen a header yet? Sort of seems like you have hit a dead end there.

[C.Plavan]

Looking good! Have you chosen a header yet? Sort of seems like you have hit a dead end there.

I just stayed stock. Its a few pages back. The stock system does not sit too low. I also had it ceramic coated along with an Invidea up pipe.

[Hindsight]

Ah cool. I must have missed it. I was following your other thread on headers while it was active.

I still have to make the choice myself. I am building an S so I'm not quite as sensitive to the headers hanging down so long as it's not too bad. If I remember correctly, you tried and returned a set of Killer-B's because they didn't fit well and you didn't think it was worth it. From all the posts I've seen from the guy who owns Killer-B, it seems like that isn't the norm and I bet he'd probably get you a set with perfect fit if you contacted him directly.... that is, if you aren't 100% sold on sticking with stock indefinitely.

[Brando]

http://i.imgur.com/PjzJEuel.png

That came out great! That picture makes your 818 look so meaty.
I bet you are glad to check that one off the list.
I like how you incorporated the bumper I am going to borrow that from you.

[longislandwrx]

Step up your game Chad.

35172

http://gizmodo.com/t-rex-skull-shower-heads-justify-the-existence-of-3d-pr-1651265059

[C.Plavan]

Step up your game Chad.

35172

http://gizmodo.com/t-rex-skull-shower-heads-justify-the-existence-of-3d-pr-1651265059

Yeah- My wife would love that. haha

My 8 year old- Sure would!

[C.Plavan]

More pics:
http://i.imgur.com/r7T7l8ul.png
http://i.imgur.com/1mivqPMl.png
http://i.imgur.com/rKJJvr0l.png

[Santiago]

Chad, just as a heads up, make sure those pins are a tight fit.

Years ago there was a case of an APR wing failing at speed due to what some suspect was excessive flex caused by an unusually high mount that was custom fabricated by the user (this was on Phil's car [of Element Tuning]). You might want to ask him about it directly, since there were a lot of armchair evaluations going on at the time. But one school of thought was that because the stanchions were too high (and really, just not properly supported either at the base or via cross-wires), they allowed a lot of lateral movement under load which eventually overstressed the carbon fiber wing mounts APR supplied. Here was the end result:

35194

The APR-defenders pointed out that their design works fine so long as the wing isn't wobbling about and is installed according to their parameters. Personally, I'm inclined to think this is correct, since there are an awful lot of APR wings out there that haven't seen such failures as installed with their mounts.

Whatever the cause in that case, I figure it can't be good practice to have a wing stanchion mount that allows the stanchion itself to flex side to side much. That will lead to the carbon fiber wing mounts taking extra stress. If the quick release pins are not firmly holding them in place, you might want to consider reverting back to bolts.

Best,
-j

[C.Plavan]

Chad, just as a heads up, make sure those pins are a tight fit.

Years ago there was a case of an APR wing failing at speed due to what some suspect was excessive flex caused by an unusually high mount that was custom fabricated by the user (this was on Phil's car [of Element Tuning]). You might want to ask him about it directly, since there were a lot of armchair evaluations going on at the time. But one school of thought was that because the stanchions were too high (and really, just not properly supported either at the base or via cross-wires), they allowed a lot of lateral movement under load which eventually overstressed the carbon fiber wing mounts APR supplied. Here was the end result:

35194

The APR-defenders pointed out that their design works fine so long as the wing isn't wobbling about and is installed according to their parameters. Personally, I'm inclined to think this is correct, since there are an awful lot of APR wings out there that haven't seen such failures as installed with their mounts.

Whatever the cause in that case, I figure it can't be good practice to have a wing stanchion mount that allows the stanchion itself to flex side to side much. That will lead to the carbon fiber wing mounts taking extra stress. If the quick release pins are not firmly holding them in place, you might want to consider reverting back to bolts.

Best,
-j

I hear what you are saying. That would suck. We designed it that there was no play between the wing stanchion and wing channels. It does not move one bit. The bottom on the stanchions is also flat on the channel, no gap.
Even in terms of the pins, Andrew welded up washers on the pin holes as added strength from any movement while maintaining alignment if taking the wing off a lot. I don't see any issue with the way it is now. I can't wait to test it out.

[Santiago]

Sounds good. I thought there was some sort of bushing/washer action going on around those pins. =)

-j

[nkw8181]

Am I correct in assuming that you must remove the trannt first and then the engine due the additional bars?

[MrDude_1]

Am I correct in assuming that you must remove the trannt first and then the engine due the additional bars?

You just unbolt the additional bars, then pull it out like you normally would. If you look carefully a few pics up, you can see how its bolted onto the frame. Only tabs for the bolts are welded on to the car permanently.

[C.Plavan]

You just unbolt the additional bars, then pull it out like you normally would. If you look carefully a few pics up, you can see how its bolted onto the frame. Only tabs for the bolts are welded on to the car permanently.

Correct. There is no difference in removing the motor/trans once the wing mount is unbolted. The front of the mount is welded to the removable FFR shock tower brace. The back is bolted on through tabs we welded on. The rear tabs are at an angle, so you have to remove the whole wing mount by pulling straight up once all bolts are removed.

So if I ever have to remove the motor/trans (hopefully never!) there are only two additional bolts to remove over the stock way.

[nkw8181]

That is awesome! But dang you note something else to consider.I don't never a wing but if I put the bracket then then I have i if I want it:-)

[Mechie3]

That is awesome! But dang you note something else to consider.I don't never a wing but if I put the bracket then then I have i if I want it:-)

Go home Nolan, you're drunk. hahaha

[Pearldrummer7]

Go home Nolan, you're drunk. hahaha

haha^^

[nkw8181]

Go home Nolan, you're drunk. hahaha

I want to go home but to work on the car... Not drink (unless that becomes a result)

Ok that was pretty funny. And that is what I get for trusting predictive text. (I proof read my post this time to make sure it didn't change on me) but makes for a funny read :-D

[C.Plavan]

Tada-

http://i.imgur.com/upzgmbnl.png

http://i.imgur.com/wwgH0Lbl.png

http://i.imgur.com/DuqyhaIl.png

[Mechie3]

Very nice. That hood needs some louvers. ;)

[metros]

Looks good!

[C.Plavan]

Yes, I need those louvers- haha.


Some final pictures of the rear end detail. Andrew added two tabs to help support the rear bumper (Better than just the rivets under the bumper or side pod bolts). I will drill a hole and throw a bolt through it later, but it really stiffens up the rear bumper mounting.

Andrew also extended the rear bumper push bar on each side. This will help if someone tries to PIT maneuver me :P

Car is coming home tomorrow. Then I can paint the new bars, finalize the AWIC and dry sump install. My excitement has been renewed.

http://i.imgur.com/MWt1BKDl.png

http://i.imgur.com/FLJGJVTl.png

http://i.imgur.com/Hto08Qul.png

[metros]

The whole wing support looks excellent. Looks to be really good quality as well.

Just noticed you have the same compressor as I do. Very nice machines.

[C.Plavan]

The whole wing support looks excellent. Looks to be really good quality as well.

Just noticed you have the same compressor as I do. Very nice machines.

Thanks- That's my friends shop. I towed it over there so he could do his magic.

Speaking of magic........ Whhhhhaaaaatttttttttttt??? :)

http://i.imgur.com/5D0VuC5l.png

http://i.imgur.com/E4jNgmLl.png

http://i.imgur.com/KAgHJ0Nl.png

[flynntuna]

Looks fantastic,

[Mechie3]

I need to share this with my friend. He did his F500/fmod in Martini colors and named his team Mowtini (since F500's use two strokes). I've always liked the porsche 918 Martini theme.

http://www.vwvortex.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/918-Martini-front-angle.jpg?COLLCC=2086460487&

[wleehendrick]

Awwww... Someone beat me to it; Ive been contemplating Martini livery for mine. Looks awesome!

[matteo92065]

That does look good!

[longislandwrx]

As I said on Brian's FB.. Should have gone with a Petronas theme... Martini is only good for a 4/5 ;)

nice work man... can't wait to watch you tear it up.

[C.Plavan]

Thanks everyone. Its still not done graphics wise either. I still need to do the hood and the other side :) . I figured White....... its gotta be Martini for awhile until I decide to paint it later (I'm digging the scheme alot though).

Now it is time to finish up the dry sump and AWIC. (After I paint the newly welded bars etc)

[D Clary]

Do you have a date for first test? If so where?

[C.Plavan]

Do you have a date for first test? If so where?

I'm just looking to get it completely done, then worry about a test day. I'm hoping for a Buttonwillow opening when I'm ready.

I finished a few things tonight.

Painted the wing mounts and associated bars. I drilled and tapped the bleeder valve and IAT sensor on the AWIC core.

Then some Box Troll threw in a little extra with my shipment of Front Hood Louvers....haha. Thanks Mechie!
http://i.imgur.com/VyV8lOUl.png

http://i.imgur.com/tU1PPfhl.png

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I drilled and tapped the bleeder valve and IAT sensor on the AWIC core.


Hi Chad,
How did you drill the holes in the AWIC without getting any metal shavings inside? I need to do the same modification.
Bob

[Mechie3]

So that's where my extra heatshield went. ;). You kept asking if it fit over a blanket. Figured there was one way to find out.

Bob,
Whenever I've drilled or ported something like an intercooler I just blow it out with compressed air and then run a hose through it until nothing comes out. You can swish it in a bathtub too if you really want to.

[C.Plavan]

Hi Chad,
How did you drill the holes in the AWIC without getting any metal shavings inside? I need to do the same modification.
Bob

What I did is put the AWIC in my vise (non marring jaws) and tilted it so I was drilling up. For the intake side which is more critical, I taped the nozzle of my shop vac in the hole (Drilling upwards, with the AWIC angled so shavings fell down towards the hole/vac. It worked very well. I then blew it out with compressed air from the opposite side. I may give it a bath like Mechie says just to make sure.

[Brando]

Per Wayne's recommondation, coating the tap grooves with grease helps capture shavings as well

[C.Plavan]

While I am there......

Pretty much all the top stuff of the dry sump is on (pump, belt, bracket). The oil is draining so I can remove the Killer B stuff and throw on the new flat dry sump plate later.

I also installed the Cobb EBCS with new hose...... I dont want anything happening to the motor :) I flashed the new Stage 2 + EBCS map so I didn't forget later when I'm all excited to fire her back up.

http://i.imgur.com/jo3tZL9l.png

I also used some steel "L" brackets to help support the front splitter to the frame. I didn't like how the nose supported all the downforce. I plan on taping up the holes to smooth the airflow. I just hole sawed through the aluminum/ drilled through splitter, and rivnuted everything in.
http://i.imgur.com/FKdtCnAl.png

I got halfway done mounting the front heat exchanger. I have to remove some aluminum panels to mount the bottom mounting brackets :( . It wouldn't of been a problem if I just decided to do Waynes's AWIC kit up front instead of an air intercooler. I hate going backwards, to go forward.

[Hindsight]

So Chad, what ST class do you think you'll run in, what cars will you be up against and how competitive do you think you'll be in there?

[C.Plavan]

So Chad, what ST class do you think you'll run in, what cars will you be up against and how competitive do you think you'll be in there?

With the stock TD04 turbo and injectors- I'm hoping I fall into ST2. However, If I I end up ST1, I need to buy a bigger turbo/injectors. Its all up in the air. I need to finish the car and weigh it (I have scales), and dyno. ST2 is a bigger class, so I could just run a stock tune if it gets me under ST1. ST2 is full of Corvettes (Which I dislike with a passion) and M3's.

[Hindsight]

Well please keep us posted with your results even after the build is done! Would love to see how competitive the car is in ST. I'm getting the bug to get into a racing series and am not sure if I will do it with the 818 (I'd have to modify my S to R which wouldn't be hard) or something else entirely like a spec E30.

[Scargo]

Great ideas and thanks for sharing. Wanna see the dry sump setup!

I want to say to everyone listening that with a turbo, besides installing a good EBCS (and regardless of new EBCS or not) you need to have good, new vacuum hoses and clamp them on or zip-tie them like Chad did. You DON'T want them coming off, cracking or tearing! You could end up having an overboost issue like FFR did and have your motor go boom, or like me, a "perfect storm" that broke the ring lands on my stock STi pistons when a vacuum hose going to the EBCS slipped off the manifold and I had oil going into the intake after it was sucked out of the overflowing A/O separator.

[wleehendrick]

I also installed the Cobb EBCS with new hose...... I dont want anything happening to the motor :) I flashed the new Stage 2 + EBCS map so I didn't forget later when I'm all excited to fire her back up.

Nice! I've had my eye on an EBCS, but didn't want to commit to a custom tune right away. I just noticed Cobb's new OTS maps, so I'll go ahead and get one. I assume with no cat, you (and I) will probably need the low wg map?

[Scargo]

Grimmspeed is all I've known/seen until now. Might compare them. Cobb does make good stuff. I'd be interested in anything anyone knows about Cobb's.

[C.Plavan]

Nice! I've had my eye on an EBCS, but didn't want to commit to a custom tune right away. I just noticed Cobb's new OTS maps, so I'll go ahead and get one. I assume with no cat, you (and I) will probably need the low wg map?

I just loaded the normal stage 2 EBCS map. I'll find out the first run :) I have the LWG one also downloaded. I guess target boost is 16psi then it tapers down to around 10psi at limiter. It does specifically say boost creep can happen with a catless downpipe. So the LWG might be the ticket.

[C.Plavan]

Well please keep us posted with your results even after the build is done! Would love to see how competitive the car is in ST. I'm getting the bug to get into a racing series and am not sure if I will do it with the 818 (I'd have to modify my S to R which wouldn't be hard) or something else entirely like a spec E30.

Andrew who helped me fab/weld the wing mount races Spec e30 (fyi- a spec E30 motor built is around $10k out here.... Thats 818R kit territory). He loves it. However, he is eyeing the 818R now.... If I can go race/test without it blowing up, I think he may look into getting one later :P . I already told him he can take it for a few laps. He did all that work for a case of race oil and 5 liters of Motul 600 brake fluid :)

[Hindsight]

$10k for a Spec E30 motor wow, I had no idea. I thought SE30 was supposed to be pretty restricted..... but I don't know much about it other than what I've researched online and a lot of what I read was written was back in the mid 2000's so perhaps the same thing has happened to SE30 that happened to Spec Miata and it's turned more into a pay to win affair?

I'll be watching your results very closely and hope you share them. If this car is competitive in an ST class I would definitely convert to an R and go full-race. Hopefully you won't experience some of the engine troubles that others have. I guess there have been a lot of lessons to learn and you have the benefit of knowing the kinds of things that can go wrong so you won't repeat them (IE make sure your tune cuts the fuel out if boost spikes for some reason).

[FFRSpec72]

Most of the competitive PRO3 cars out her re are 50 to 60 k and the starter ones are 30k. PRO2 is close to Spec E30

[Hindsight]

I'm pretty confused by all this. I see competitive (national level) Spec E30's for sale for $11k to $14k. There is also a HP cap of like 155hp written into the rules, which many 140k+ mile engines can produce as-is with no mods, so I'm not sure why anyone would need to spend $10k on an engine. But I'm not speaking from any first hand experience here - just what I have been reading up about online in order to figure out if it's something I'd want to get into. I mention all this not to argue, but to better understand if my current understanding is wrong and racing in this class would be a lot more money than I thought.

My understanding is Spec E30 is one of the cheapest and most restricted classes around and the folks writing the rules do everything they can to keep it that way. The HP cap was implemented last year, for example, to keep the arms race at bay.

[Mechie3]

Limiting HP is done in many series with an inlet restrictor. It's hard to measure HP as weather changes make it go up or down. If you're limited to a certain restrictor, then you do everything you can to make the motor more efficient to make use of every bit of air you can pull in. Not sure if e30 is like that or not.

[C.Plavan]

I'm pretty confused by all this. I see competitive (national level) Spec E30's for sale for $11k to $14k. There is also a HP cap of like 155hp written into the rules, which many 140k+ mile engines can produce as-is with no mods, so I'm not sure why anyone would need to spend $10k on an engine. But I'm not speaking from any first hand experience here - just what I have been reading up about online in order to figure out if it's something I'd want to get into. I mention all this not to argue, but to better understand if my current understanding is wrong and racing in this class would be a lot more money than I thought.

My understanding is Spec E30 is one of the cheapest and most restricted classes around and the folks writing the rules do everything they can to keep it that way. The HP cap was implemented last year, for example, to keep the arms race at bay.

They are paying that $10k to get to that last bit of HP. Stock builds can yield 7 to 10 hp lower than the limit. One of my other friends just blew his spec e30 motor, so I was just as surprised when he told me the price. I said just buy an E30 with a motor in it.

But lets not hijack this thread with Spec E30 talk.....they are just disposable race cars..... :)

[Hindsight]

But lets not hijack this thread with Spec E30 talk.....they are just disposable race cars..... :)

Haha, this is true. So the ball is in your court now to post up some results! When is your first race?

[longislandwrx]

But lets not hijack this thread with Spec E30 talk.....they are just disposable race cars..... :)


BAHAH..

You'll probably be fine with the std wastegate tune, I don't know many people who needed to run the light map. Can you port the wastegate and be in ST2? If so it can't hurt.

[Brando]

besides installing a good EBCS (and regardless of new EBCS or not) you need to have good, new vacuum hoses and clamp them on or zip-tie them like Chad did. You DON'T want them coming off, cracking or tearing! You could end up having an overboost issue like FFR did and have your motor go boom, or like me, a "perfect storm" that broke the ring lands on my stock STi pistons when a vacuum hose going to the EBCS slipped off the manifold and I had oil going into the intake after it was sucked out of the overflowing A/O separator.

A cracked hose also paved the way to my engine failure. By the time i caught it I think the damage was done. Crazy how such a simple rubber hose splitting can cause such catastrophic problems.