Plavan's 818R Build Thread

[wleehendrick]

A cracked hose also paved the way to my engine failure. By the time i caught it I think the damage was done. Crazy how such a simple rubber hose splitting can cause such catastrophic problems.

But you loved that extra boost while you had it, right :p? It often is the simplest of things that lead to the biggest failures (think space shuttle). The Cobb EBCS comes with plenty of new hose and zip ties, how nice of them! I just downloaded the Stage 2+ EBCS maps, now time to order one.

[longislandwrx]

Yeah not to thread jack but reviews of the stage 2 + ebcs ots map have been pretty favorable with boost coming on much quicker. I am thinking about scooping another one up if Cobb has another black Friday sale.

[C.Plavan]

Haha, this is true. So the ball is in your court now to post up some results! When is your first race?

Probably early next year. I need to test, test, test.

[C.Plavan]

Throwback Thursday- This was a TV Pilot I was lucky to be a part of for a TV show documentary. Feel free to make fun of the nervous guy that cant talk, with awesome helmet hair.

http://vimeo.com/57230698

[wleehendrick]

Throwback Thursday- This was a TV Pilot I was lucky to be a part of for a TV show documentary. Feel free to make fun of the nervous guy that cant talk, with awesome helmet hair.

Nice! Loved seeing the 2002 out there also (that was my first car). But what's the late model Lotus doing in a vintage race?

[GUNS]

Looks great Chad, can't wait to see it on the track!

[C.Plavan]

Nice! Loved seeing the 2002 out there also (that was my first car). But what's the late model Lotus doing in a vintage race?

They allow anything sometimes in an exhibition class. Now there are specific "Club Racer" classes- they get thrown into our race group sometimes.

Dry Sump is 90% complete. All lines are made. I ordered one wrong fitting...... it was supposed to be female instead of male. Grrrrrr. It is for the what Element calls the "Vent in" port. I have to tee the breather ports on the heads and the removed PCV crank hose together, then run it to the tank.

I do have to make one different line for my oil cooler once I figure out where I'm mounting it. All in all, the hardest part was removing the Killer B pan at the beginning.

http://i.imgur.com/ubrX4aal.png

http://i.imgur.com/IwjCTnPl.png

http://i.imgur.com/fde5NnVl.png



The dry sump vent can fits perfectly under the hump.
http://i.imgur.com/NPGvv1nl.png

[Scargo]

Glad to see you doing this and breaking new ground, Mr Guinea Pig. Can you explain what is going on with the "Vent in" port and any other related attachments on the top? Does Element have anything online that details the install process? I have thought that I would drill and tap the case vents on top and get away from the hose clamps and barbs.
The oil line at the exhaust looks close. How close is it? Whose exhaust is that? Please, another shot looking up at the sump with everything installed...?

[Speedy G]

Oops, wrong thread

[C.Plavan]

Glad to see you doing this and breaking new ground, Mr Guinea Pig. Can you explain what is going on with the "Vent in" port and any other related attachments on the top? Does Element have anything online that details the install process? I have thought that I would drill and tap the case vents on top and get away from the hose clamps and barbs.
The oil line at the exhaust looks close. How close is it? Whose exhaust is that? Please, another shot looking up at the sump with everything installed...?

I'll take some some better pictures when everything is done. Brando has one installed, but I'm venting it differently. I'm not using PCV system at all(I'm guessing Brandon is because he is street driving his, maybe he will chime in), it causes the scavenge to work against it per Element.

The "Vent Out" is the dry sump vent tank (Joes Racing Products). The "Vent In" is all the breather lines tee'd together then going to the oil tank. If they fill with oil in corners, it can dump it back into the oil tank (The oil tank is acting like a big AOS/ recirculating oil catch can)

Element has been great at answering my questions. They really don't have "install instructions". When I have a question, I just email or call Phil or Andrew. Once you get everything, you seem to figure it out.

The oil lines will be close to the header but not touching. I have not tied mine out of the way yet. This is why you need 2000 degree fire sleeving. I had the stock headers ceramic coated, so that will help also. They do not sit below the frame rail, so my 818R will have a full flat bottom with the aluminum under trays.


Per Phil at Element regarding PVC

"I would just eliminate the PCV as your dry sump pump is pulling vacuum to your crankcase. By using the PCV the scanvenge pump won't be able to do as much since you're introducing a leak. I would simply eliminate it.

On a new engine build, dry system, it's about 8 quarts with the tank half full."

[D Clary]

I think 8 quarts is a lot of oil, you should have no oil temp problems even w/o cooler. Keep an eye on that sleeving as it can become brittle and flake away, sort of like burn. I have used it on plug wires before. You may need a small shield. Just keep and eye on it.

[C.Plavan]

I bought another one of these Setrab oil cooler/fan pack set up. I use one as my trans cooler in the 911. It works great for its size and feel it would be perfect on the 818R as an oil cooler. I'm thinking of mounting it above the transmission. With its fan, you can really mount it anywhere.

http://i.imgur.com/NBqCLcUl.png

Does anyone know for a fact if the vent on top of the back hatch pulls air in, or pushes air out?

[FFRSpec72]

I bought another one of these Setrab oil cooler/fan pack set up. I use one as my trans cooler in the 911. It works great for its size and feel it would be perfect on the 818R as an oil cooler. I'm thinking of mounting it above the transmission. With its fan, you can really mount it anywhere.


I have one of these, mine is a Setrab 119 Fanpack Fan Pack, and mine is going on the drivers side rear, with the fan I don't think I will need much external air, I don't want to pull from the bottom since I want to keep the flat aero there. I will also use a thermostatically controlled adapter to activate at 185-190%

[biknman]

Great ideas and thanks for sharing. Wanna see the dry sump setup!

I want to say to everyone listening that with a turbo, besides installing a good EBCS (and regardless of new EBCS or not) you need to have good, new vacuum hoses and clamp them on or zip-tie them like Chad did. You DON'T want them coming off, cracking or tearing! You could end up having an overboost issue like FFR did and have your motor go boom, or like me, a "perfect storm" that broke the ring lands on my stock STi pistons when a vacuum hose going to the EBCS slipped off the manifold and I had oil going into the intake after it was sucked out of the overflowing A/O separator.

Ditto had the same issue I now use high temp poly tubing and push to lock fittings I got from from McMaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/#push-to-connect-tube-fittings/=uhx6z2

Pics from current build
http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/biknman/MY%2003%20WRX%20Race%20car/Copy2ofIMG_20130504_190054_zpsec24c1c4.jpg (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/biknman/media/MY%2003%20WRX%20Race%20car/Copy2ofIMG_20130504_190054_zpsec24c1c4.jpg.html)

Pics from my GD base race car
http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l594/biknman/MY%2003%20WRX%20Race%20car/82cc4d47-e1af-4600-a54a-97e29cc180df_zpsa16970cd.jpg (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/biknman/media/MY%2003%20WRX%20Race%20car/82cc4d47-e1af-4600-a54a-97e29cc180df_zpsa16970cd.jpg.html)

[metalmaker12]

Cool setup!!

[Scargo]

Biknman, Love the gold leaf...
Mine:
https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t31.0-8/10714003_978197725530673_7450103254444662945_o.jpg
I can't find what looks like your fittings at McMaster-Carr. Can you be more specific about the fittings and tubing?
Thanks!

[biknman]

Biknman, Love the gold leaf...

I can't find what looks like your fittings at McMaster-Carr. Can you be more specific about the fittings and tubing?
Thanks!

Thanks

The following is an examable of what I used:
on the manifold tap with 1/4 NPT threads push-to-connect stainless 1/4NPT to 1/4 tubing fittings http://www.mcmaster.com/#push-to-connect-tube-fittings-for-moisture-resistant-polyethylene-vacuum-tubing/=ui8ymf
35500
Also known as instant fittings, these fittings provide a quick and easy way to connect and disconnect plastic and soft metal tubing. To install, insert the tubing into the fitting until it stops. An internal gripping ring and O-ring hold the fitting secure and form a tight seal around the outside of the tubing. To disconnect, push on the release ring and pull the tubing out of the fitting.

and the tubing was 1/4 plastic hard vaccum rated high temp tubing http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-and-rubber-tubing/=ui8vjl

[C.Plavan]

I finished up mounting the Setrab oil cooler. I found the perfect spot for it. The fan is thermo switch controlled at 180 degrees so you can place it pretty much anywhere where there is air flowing around. I just need to make a couple easy lines in the AM and the total dry sump system with cooler will be completely done!

http://i.imgur.com/2uUCKnAl.png

http://i.imgur.com/TnNm28il.png

[JeromeS13]

My only concern is the ambient air temperature in the rear engine bay... If it's ~220 degrees or higher (which I suspect it is), the cooler won't be very efficient....

[metalmaker12]

I have to agree, off the the right or left in the side duct area would be a lower temp and you could make a box to block it off from the heat like an intake box. Heat is the enemy on this car. But I would run some data before you go and move what you have done. As we all know proper oil temp is very important, to low and you get the same issues as to high. I am actually a little concerned that the coolant system might be too efficient. Operating temp of the coolant system is barely happening at idle, than when we drive the system cools down more, which might make the thermo close again. Just an idea, but I will be testing this. Why I bring it up, it will effect oil temp on most setups also, besides other issues.

[C.Plavan]

While I respect your opinions, this is a race car. It will not be stopped at red lights cooking the engine bay. Don't discount the position of the oil cooler yet. I have yet to see anyone that has an external oil cooler installed on a 818S, let alone a 818R. So hold your horses boys. I'll know the first time out if I need to duct or vent more.

The full exhaust is Ceramic coated to help keep temps down and then there are the vents that will keep the air flowing through. I'm not worrying about this like a TMIC. The fan on the cooler at a stand still is equivalent to 50+ mph of direct air movement over the cooler. Then there is the 8 quarts of oil in the dry sump.

So sit back and let me try to do my magic. :)

[Scargo]

The side inlet location is where I plan on having my oil cooler.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=35476&d=1415314204&thumb=1
This will fit in this spot. It's 13x8 overall. I do expect to have to modify the fiberglass and would like for there to be ductwork around it so hot air is channeled out the rear.
Chad, yours may work fine. I don't know about the air back there getting that hot. I will say that I don't think an intercooler belongs in the rear.

[C.Plavan]

The side inlet location is where I plan on having my oil cooler.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=35476&d=1415314204&thumb=1
This will fit in this spot. It's 13x8 overall. I do expect to have to modify the fiberglass and would like for there to be ductwork around it so hot air is channeled out the rear.
Chad, yours may work fine. I don't know about the air back there getting that hot. I will say that I don't think an intercooler belongs in the rear.

Where you have it mocked up is 6-8 inches in front of where the vent is with the body on. You could just weld on some straps to move it back- then remember about the aluminum wheel wells that are riveted in.
It's like a big jigsaw puzzle. I would wait until the end before mounting "Accessories". I cant count how many times I had to remove stuff because I got ahead of the build.

[Scargo]

It's not if you move the inner wall of the side inlet back against the post and stop it there. I said I expect to modify the fiberglass. ;) The cooler is also at an angle.
I do appreciate the comment. I am just mocking things up with baling wire to visualize ideas.

[C.Plavan]

The dry sump is finished! I'm just waiting on some left hand M8 nuts for the A/C tensioner so I can tighten the dry sump pump belt.

I installed the front Heat Exchanger, ran the lines, installed the Bosch pump and electrical.

I should have the 818R Version 2- burning up the neighborhood this weekend or sooner.

[JeromeS13]

When is your next scheduled event?

[C.Plavan]

When is your next scheduled event?

I'm going to do some open test days with some buddies. Dec 14th at Buttonwillow Raceway for sure. However, I trying to get out there sooner to test.

Official race Schedule:
Feb 28 & March 1 - Willow Springs
April 18 & 19- Buttonwillow
May 16 & 17 - Auto Club Speedway
June 13 & 14- Buttonwillow
July 31- Aug 2- Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca *Western States Champs (will count for SoCal points)*
October 10 & 11- Buttonwillow

[JeromeS13]

Do you have datalogging capabilities? (I can't recall). I really want to see what your IAT's are one track... Do you have a reservoir? If so, where is it mounted?

[C.Plavan]

Do you have datalogging capabilities? (I can't recall). I really want to see what your IAT's are one track... Do you have a reservoir? If so, where is it mounted?

Yes. I added a IAT sensor to the AWIC core. It will log to my Traqmate and display in real time on my Traqdash display (I will set alarms to warn me if it gets over 140 degrees). No reservoir, hopefully shouldn't need one.

[Brando]

Yes! Congrats. So you gonna invite me out to your virgin run? I would love to come out with you and share notes, in addition I wanted you to take a few laps in my 818 and get/offer some perspective. Do you have any idea what config they run on open test days?
I like that oil cooler, however I can't seem to find it. Would you please point me in the right direction so I can copy another one of your great ideas?
Lastly, what additions constitutes Version 2?

[C.Plavan]

Sure. Plan on Dec 14th for sure. I does not list the config yet for the track. I hope CW 13 or 1.

I need to get a handle on my own car before I jump into someone else's. I don't want to hurt it, but I would love to see the power difference from my stock turbo.

Oil Cooler with fan pack I bought here- http://www.kartek.com/Brand/168/Setrab.aspx?catid=62

Make sure to get the -12 adapters (2 of course). There is a thermal (-12 also) switch you can buy to turn the fan on at 180 degrees. I also bought the basic mount. Not sure if you need it. I bought everything except the oil cooler from https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/

I'm thinking the oil cooler should work fine for its size and fan. Like I said earlier, I have one on my 911 trans to cool the oil and it does an outstanding job for its size. If it does not do the job, I can jump up to the bigger model and use the smaller one for the trans cooler (I would have to tap a spray bar into trans first).

Version 2 just means I had everything running before adding the dry sump and AWIC. It's new and improved.

[Brando]

I hurt my car every time I take it out so don't worry about it. ;)

[C.Plavan]

I hurt my car every time I take it out so don't worry about it. ;)

I shouldn't laugh, I could be next! :)

I filled and bled the AWIC. It took about 1.5 gallons of distilled water. You can hear the air pockets working through because the water pump is so quiet. I'll try topping it off once I take her around the Loop.

I did add a couple of 1/2 pipe fittings. I did not like how the supplied top Heat Exchanger fitting caused the hose to kink. So I bought a 3" extender and a 90 degree angle. That cleared everything and the line was not kinking. Works great, no leaks!

http://i.imgur.com/WnLLsy2l.jpg (http://imgur.com/WnLLsy2)

I'll clean up that trimming.

Some more pics: I'm just waiting patiently for my exhaust.

http://i.imgur.com/gGnngrPl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/vI86Egul.jpg

I also installed the firewall back on, mounted the ECU on the cockpit side of the firewall, and ran the A/F wire cluster down the center console to the back.

[Mechie3]

Solid gold!

I offset my entire heat exchanger so the fittings angled right where yours do now.

[metalmaker12]

I hurt my car every time I take it out so don't worry about it. ;)

What's up with your car, and honestly we should not all be having such issues, Possably something else is going on and we and FFR have missed it. It could be simple idk

[Brando]

Motor is still apart. Unfortunately there wasn't anything blatantly conclusive. Pistons didn't look that bad at all. Rings on pistons 1 and 4 show some damage, and bearings on rod 1 went. Crank scored. New parts list is a crank and 1 rod so that isn't all that bad. I don't think this is a design flaw, I think there is something I am doing wrong and once I get some proper data logging I will have an a-ha moment. On this build I am doing an oil cooler like Chad did, also a Racepaq. Turns out they are a few miles from me, I met with them at Sema and am going to bring my car into them and have them set everything up.

My goal is to have it ready to run in 1 month so I can run a test day with Chad. I have everything I need to get my plates now, except a running car. I will update my thread when I have a little more info, and sorry for the hijack here Chad.

[FFRSpec72]

Motor is still apart. Unfortunately there wasn't anything blatantly conclusive. Pistons didn't look that bad at all. Rings on pistons 1 and 4 show some damage, and bearings on rod 1 went. Crank scored. New parts list is a crank and 1 rod so that isn't all that bad. I don't think this is a design flaw, I think there is something I am doing wrong and once I get some proper data logging I will have an a-ha moment. On this build I am doing an oil cooler like Chad did, also a Racepaq. Turns out they are a few miles from me, I met with them at Sema and am going to bring my car into them and have them set everything up.

My goal is to have it ready to run in 1 month so I can run a test day with Chad. I have everything I need to get my plates now, except a running car. I will update my thread when I have a little more info, and sorry for the hijack here Chad.

Was there oil in the intake ? What about pre detonation issues ? Did you have breather system (oil/air separator) ?

[C.Plavan]

Racepaq's are nice! I hope to see you there Brandon.

I got this working today. AWIC temp with tapped GM IAT sensor. I set the alarm and light for 140 degrees. Everything is working nicely.
http://i.imgur.com/36ZT3zUl.jpg

Ohh- I got it running again. 90 PSI oil pressure and the dry sump took 8 qts on the nose (fully dry)-

[metros]

That's a pretty cool gadget.

Make sure you take video again next time you're at the track.

[C.Plavan]

Thanks- It gets the job done. I can use it in both race cars without any hassle moving it. Plus it saves the settings for different race cars (sensors, rev limit, shift lights ect)

I figured some people may want to see the dry sump in action. You can wrap you head around all the lines.

http://youtu.be/ZP4OaKHQ7Ng

[Frank818]

Nice stuff but is it normal your cluster says you are running out of gas? :)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

What's up with your car, and honestly we should not all be having such issues, Possably something else is going on and we and FFR have missed it. It could be simple idk

Metal and Brando,
What was the coolant level in the fill tank (degas tank) after each engine failure?
Bob

[D Clary]

Which way is your oil cooler fan blowing. I t looks like the fan should be on the other side of the cooler.

[C.Plavan]

Which way is your oil cooler fan blowing. I t looks like the fan should be on the other side of the cooler.

I dont ride the short bus on these things- :) . The fan blades are optimal for "pulling" air. That's why it is mounted that way.

http://www.setrabusa.com/pdf/instructions/fanpacks/fp119m22i/Setrab%20FP119M22I%20Instructions%20rev060414.pdf

[D Clary]

Didn't mean to insult, just asking

[C.Plavan]

Didn't mean to insult, just asking

Not at all. I was being sarcastic, see the smiley face. I ride the short bus on other things. Like getting to know this EJ motor for the first time. Its all good.

[metalmaker12]

Metal and Brando,
What was the coolant level in the fill tank (degas tank) after each engine failure?
Bob


I had a coolant leak, so my level will not help your theory. I am rather certain my leak and hitting the rev limiter often along with the iats getting very high made my head gaskets blow and caused some ringland failure. My bottom end was spotless. My motor does have the best oiling crank of all the ej engines and has a semi closed deck which helps it not spin bearings. The ej205 and ej255/57 tend to spin bearings more, especially with a improper tune

[metalmaker12]

Metal and Brando,
What was the coolant level in the fill tank (degas tank) after each engine failure?
Bob


I had a coolant leak, so my level will not help your theory. When I drained the coolant I had about 2 gallons if that, so I lost a gallon and was sucking in air at full revs and did not know it till it was too late.

[Mechie3]

We should get T-shirts made up with a pic of the 818. haha

http://ep.yimg.com/ty/cdn/yhst-11870311283124/shortbus-asphalt.gif

[C.Plavan]

Whats wrong with my under engine panel?

http://i.imgur.com/YIozzm4l.jpg

I also was having fun with Mechie's louvers. They are stout.

http://i.imgur.com/1oWqvoPl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/cV3kVq1l.jpg

I painted them last night and look great.

[Hindsight]

What are you using for paint on parts like that?

[Wayne Presley]

Whats wrong with my under engine panel?

http://i.imgur.com/YIozzm4l.jpg

I also was having fun with Mechie's louvers. They are stout.

http://i.imgur.com/1oWqvoPl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/cV3kVq1l.jpg

I painted them last night and look great.

I know, I know. That is the under seat panel :-)

[C.Plavan]

I know, I know. That is the under seat panel :-)

Looks like it to me..... lol They sent it to me as the under engine tray. Ooops. Now I have to wait another week plus for the correct part.

[Brando]

I didn't know one existed until I saw it on the 818 laying on its side at Sema. Joe stressed installing it so it forms a natural bend into the diffuser. Should help it do its job.

[Mechie3]

They are stout.


:D I wanted to make them without the typical brace running down the middle and make sure they didn't flap at 120.

[C.Plavan]

What are you using for paint on parts like that?

I powdercoated the stock stuff. I should of waited, because I'm only using a 1/4 of what I had powdercoated. For louvers and other stuff, rattle can black. Looks just as good if prepped right.

[Hindsight]

Thanks. I've been rattle canning my sheet metal parts with various success. Have experimented with Rustoleum as well as VHT rollbar & chassis. The latter leaves a much nicer finish when done right and is far more durable, but I don't know if it's just me or the cold temps around here lately, but I can't spray an even final-coat without runs lately. I am holding the parts vertical though, so I can hit both sides in one spray session. If sprayed the final coat horizontal I'd probably have better luck.

Any particular paint you like?

[RM1SepEx]

I didn't know one existed until I saw it on the 818 laying on its side at Sema. Joe stressed installing it so it forms a natural bend into the diffuser. Should help it do its job.

I had to ask for mine after someone started a thread about it a couple months ago... My problem is my headers hang down below it as well as the sump

[C.Plavan]

New lap record of "the Loop" haha.

http://i.imgur.com/cpYvRd6l.jpg

Everything is working. I had a little tire rub from the rear wheel splash guards. I had to trim some of the vertical piece for clearance. I think they were meant for S ride heights.

Finished alot of little things. Just need my exhaust, engine aluminum and install the rear diffuser for the Dec track day. The only big things are installing the fire system, and making a box for the fuel cell.

[Frank818]

Chad, you have installed a kill switch, if I remember?

How many amps is it? 100amp, 350amp, other?

[C.Plavan]

Chad, you have installed a kill switch, if I remember?

How many amps is it? 100amp, 350amp, other?

Whatever came on the Longacre panel.

[Brando]

http://i.imgur.com/cpYvRd6l.jpg


How perfect is that asphalt? Even an off track experience appears forgiving.

[C.Plavan]

How perfect is that asphalt? Even an off track experience appears forgiving.

They just resealed it about 2 months ago. It looks "Off" friendly in some areas, but cliffs, boulders, big oak trees want to reach out and touch you. I'm not going fast enough to go off- people do live around here. I'm sure I'm pissing them off. haha

[longislandwrx]

Ouch, they wanted $75 to ship that panel, and $50 for the panel itself... Expensive mistake on someone's part.

[C.Plavan]

Ouch, they wanted $75 to ship that panel, and $50 for the panel itself... Expensive mistake on someone's part.

$75 shipping....Ouch is right. Jim already sent out the correct one to me. I should have it next week. I guess I have some spare sheet to cover up some holes in the front foot wheel area..... rocks were flying in yesterday all over!

[wleehendrick]

Ouch, they wanted $75 to ship that panel, and $50 for the panel itself... Expensive mistake on someone's part.

When I got my kit I had two door liners nested together... both passenger's side. Not sure what the shipping was since FFR covered it and the return, but FedEx is certainly profiting off someone's goof-ups there!

[C.Plavan]

I added a 3D printed 818R emblem. I'll sand the other one smooth next time. Looks good for now.

http://i.imgur.com/t6KseZwl.jpg

[Frank818]

I added a 3D printed 818R emblem. I'll sand the other one smooth next time. Looks good for now.

http://i.imgur.com/t6KseZwl.jpg

Oh so that's where my R went!

35854

Nah, keep it, it looks pretty good! :)

[Frank818]

I added a 3D printed 818R emblem. I'll sand the other one smooth next time. Looks good for now.

http://i.imgur.com/t6KseZwl.jpg

Oh so that's where my "R" went!

35854

Nah, keep it, it looks pretty good! :)

[C.Plavan]

Mechies Louvers are in. They look great. Much better than the stock mesh. I know they will withstand any abuse I throw at them. I siliconed them in. Very sturdy.

http://i.imgur.com/xipC87hl.jpg

I also threw in the door liners. I feel it makes the 818R look a little more complete inside. I just need to make/add a few more pieces of aluminum.
http://i.imgur.com/TVHG0Rvl.jpg

[wallace18]

You have done a super job with the car! well done!

[MrDude_1]

I added a 3D printed 818R emblem. I'll sand the other one smooth next time. Looks good for now.

http://i.imgur.com/t6KseZwl.jpg

ooh! i like this... but some nagging part of my head tells me it belongs on the other side of the car. lol.

[C.Plavan]

Thanks! A little over 2 weeks for its first real test.

Haha- It can go anywhere.

[Mechie3]

Do you have a job, or do you just stay at home and build race cars? haha

Thanks for being the test fitter for the louvers. :)

[C.Plavan]

Do you have a job, or do you just stay at home and build race cars? haha

Thanks for being the test fitter for the louvers. :)

I would love to do that, but if I don't work, I cant afford the toys. Catch 22. :)

[Frank818]

I siliconed them in.

You used silicone as glue? Never thought of that, nice idea, just like the alu panels.

[JeromeS13]

You used silicone as glue? Never thought of that, nice idea, just like the alu panels.

That's what the build manual recommends to hold the normal ones in place, too...

[Frank818]

Oh that's true. Sorry that I don't read the manual anymore, have had too many troubles following it, but I should have thought about it since the original mesh and surrounds are the same material as the alu panels.

[BC Huselton]

Did the diffuser and the under engine AL panel come with images and installation instructions? I would love to see how they fit together and what you need to cut out to clear the transmission. Also, where they attach to the rear structure. I have done a search and found no pictures of all the piece fitting together...just the Carbon Fiber piece alone from the FFR website.

Any help here would be appreciated, Thanks BC

[Erik W. Treves]

digging it! love the louvers...emblem is a nice touch!

[metalmaker12]

Ditto, like it!!

[C.Plavan]

Did the diffuser and the under engine AL panel come with images and installation instructions? I would love to see how they fit together and what you need to cut out to clear the transmission. Also, where they attach to the rear structure. I have done a search and found no pictures of all the piece fitting together...just the Carbon Fiber piece alone from the FFR website.

Any help here would be appreciated, Thanks BC

I'm not sure about it either since I do have the correct aluminum piece yet. Once I get it this week, I'll figure it out and post some pictures on how I installed it. Keep in mind I kept the stock headers and have a dry sump installed. This allows for no modification of the under engine tray piece since nothing sits below the frame rails. It will be totally flat. You shouldn't have to cut anything for the trans area either.

[Mitch Wright]

Car looks great, good luck on your maiden track voyage. Look forward to a report.

[nkw8181]

I have the correct piece but haven't tackled that yet. I'll see what I can do as far as mocking up if nothing else just to show how it flows

[C.Plavan]

We have side mirrors-
http://i.imgur.com/4vXGq3Pl.jpg

[D Clary]

Looks great Chad, I have a couple questions. How do you attach the windshield to the cowl piece, screw, rivets ? I am curious about the door vents, what do they vent? They look like they will just funnel gravel and rubber onto your door. Any Chance to get it on the scales yet?

[C.Plavan]

Looks great Chad, I have a couple questions. How do you attach the windshield to the cowl piece, screw, rivets ? I am curious about the door vents, what do they vent? They look like they will just funnel gravel and rubber onto your door. Any Chance to get it on the scales yet?

I attached the windshield with large head 3/8" rivets (AllStar Performance-Black).

The door vents- They vent out the radiator/under hood area- it would also add downforce. If you look at P2 race cars in the Tudor series, they have similar vents. You do not put on all the aluminum in the rear of the front wheel wells.
http://static.squarespace.com/static/500ddac5c4aa251574d953ee/t/51c33793e4b02a2056439f18/1371748255050/IMG_9610.JPG


No scales yet. Maybe this weekend.

[C.Plavan]

I installed the flat bottom engine tray and diffuser. It's pretty simple. I installed the engine tray with 8 rivnuts (so I can change oil easy). I then just riveted (3/16" large head) the diffuser in about 10 places at the end of the tray. Looks good.
I'm going to extend the diffuser fins back towards the motor/where is angles up at a later date.

http://i.imgur.com/ftmf7Zml.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ZGXaR7Pl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/HHso3sxl.jpg

[BC Huselton]

Git it. Many thanks for taking the time to post it. BC

[C.Plavan]

Git it. Many thanks for taking the time to post it. BC

No problem.

818R guys may want to consider these tie down mounts. I have them on my Porsche and it makes trailering a breeze. I mounted them on the rear spindle. I'm hoping the same goes for the 818R. The hole is slightly bigger than the M12 bolt, but with a washer and everything torqued down everything will be fine (66 ft/pounds). Its not going to go anywhere. I bought the 45 degree models from Rennline.com

http://i.imgur.com/fZXBrUXl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/PeCvtbGl.jpg

I'm going to look at adding some to the front also. I'm just running out of time right now.

[Hindsight]

Looking good as always. Can't wait to see your track report in a couple of weeks. Wish I could be there in person!

[RM1SepEx]

Chad, How thick are those tie downs? They look like 3/16 thick steel

[C.Plavan]

Chad, How thick are those tie downs? They look like 3/16 thick steel

Yep- 3/16th steel.

[metalmaker12]

No problem.

818R guys may want to consider these tie down mounts. I have them on my Porsche and it makes trailering a breeze. I mounted them on the rear spindle. I'm hoping the same goes for the 818R. The hole is slightly bigger than the M12 bolt, but with a washer and everything torqued down everything will be fine (66 ft/pounds). Its not going to go anywhere. I bought the 45 degree models from Rennline.com

http://i.imgur.com/fZXBrUXl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/PeCvtbGl.jpg

I'm going to look at adding some to the front also. I'm just running out of time right now.

I like these, but when u went on site I did not see this style, what's the part number bro.

[metros]

Those tie downs are pretty nice. I'm going to pick up a couple to use for transporting my 818.

Should be plenty strong for a tow hook up if necessary, right?


*Edit * Metal - they're within body & exterior then click on tow hooks and tie downs. They're universal so should come up with any of the porsche models. I don't see a part number to reference on the site.

[C.Plavan]

http://www.rennline.com/Rennline-Tie-Downs-set-of-2/productinfo/E04/

Black Friday code BF12-

[D Clary]

Which panels do you leave out for the door vents, still thinking about them, I can see that with all of the panel in place there is little way for the air to get out of the nose.They are the only aero pieces that I do not have. I was kind of hoping that FFR would go back to the wind tunnel to check the pieces like they did at the start.

[Frank818]

These tie-downs, when the car is towed, it doesn't rub on the diffuser? If yes then it means the towing cable is probably at the same angle as the car is.

EDIT: By "if yes", I meant that is was NOT rubbing.

[C.Plavan]

I worked on the car all day. I'm getting excited for next weekend. I had my hand in just about everything today including panels, messing with the springs, bleeding the brakes, trimming some fiberglass, installing the GPS module and running the cable.

I will be grabbing my scales from my buddy tomorrow. I will be corner balancing it over the next couple days after work. I'm going to see how much the quick pig weighs. I also need to finish installing the graphics/decals also.

Reminder to those with the R- Make sure to buy 4 1/2" grade 8 bolts for the rear shocks. The longer bolt goes through the shock tower brace AND shock at the higher "R" hole. It's nothing like the 818S rear shocks.
http://i.imgur.com/3GtOlrBl.jpg

Added my iWire decals :) I have my ECU mounted on the drivers side of the firewall. I feel it is more protected from heat that way.
http://i.imgur.com/QQWKCNUl.jpg

[Frank818]

So those tie-downs are not too far in (forward) underneath the car?

[C.Plavan]

So those tie-downs are not too far in (forward) underneath the car?

It just depends where your trailer tie downs are. They should work fine on my trailer going straight and not X'ing them in the rear.

[C.Plavan]

Those tie downs are pretty nice. I'm going to pick up a couple to use for transporting my 818.

Should be plenty strong for a tow hook up if necessary, right?


*Edit * Metal - they're within body & exterior then click on tow hooks and tie downs. They're universal so should come up with any of the porsche models. I don't see a part number to reference on the site.

I'm just using them specifically for trailering, not tow hooks. They can just tow with the roll bar hoop.

[Frank818]

Hummm... tnx for that Chad. I think I'll hold off for now. A normal towing and the one I use (guy I know) is a ramp dropped at an angle on the floor and then pulls with a cable. I guess until the rear wheels are on the ramp the cable may hit the diffuser.

Like this:

36124

[C.Plavan]

Hummm... tnx for that Chad. I think I'll hold off for now. A normal towing and the one I use (guy I know) is a ramp dropped at an angle on the floor and then pulls with a cable. I guess until the rear wheels are on the ramp the cable may hit the diffuser.

Like this:

36124

These are just for tieing down Frank...... not pulling up a ramp trailer. With the R's I just attach winch cable to roll bar and pull away.

[Frank818]

Oh crap! Now everything makes sense! I thought you were using them to pull on a ramp too.

The idea of the roll bar is interesting, haven't thought of that. I'm buying it. How much is it (the idea)?

[Brando]

I also use the roll bar for winching/towing. Works great with the mini windshield. A full windshield would be an issue however.

EDIT: By towing I meant towing off a track when needed. Not towing to/from the track. I love your idea for the tow hooks, another great idea of yours I plan to use.
What are you using to secure the front?

[Hindsight]

Chad, will you be taking video of your test runs next week?

[C.Plavan]

Chad, will you be taking video of your test runs next week?

Of course. That way you guys can feel my exhilaration, or shame of defeat. :)

[D Clary]

Looking forward to hearing about a successful outing. The stories of everything was great until .......l or it was really fast but then it....... are making some folk nervous

[C.Plavan]

Survey says........
http://i.imgur.com/qcEGbHHl.jpg

I figured it would be around there. It has about 4 gallons of gas in it. Its pretty well balanced without me in it..... darn. I'm going to have to play with the springs.

With me in it without messing with the springs yet: Not a bad starting point.
http://i.imgur.com/nTbXVnpl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/dd8ON8Yl.jpg

[wleehendrick]

I'm going to see how much the quick pig weighs.

At least under a ton... you owe her an apology! ;)

[C.Plavan]

At least under a ton... you owe her an apology! ;)

True. :) I built the rear wing mount/bumper to withstand a hit. I think that anyone racing wheel 2 wheel should do the same. I'll take safety over weight every time. Side intrusion panels, Dry Sump with extra oil and lines, fire system, AWIC, little mods here and there all add up. I'm fine with coming under 2000 lbs ready to race. Now its time to beat up M3's and Corvettes.

[Santiago]

True. :) I built the rear wing mount/bumper to withstand a hit. I think that anyone racing wheel 2 wheel should do the same. I'll take safety over weight every time. Side intrusion panels, Dry Sump with extra oil and lines, fire system, AWIC, little mods here and there all add up. I'm fine with coming under 2000 lbs ready to race. Now its time to beat up M3's and Corvettes.

Soooo very close to how my build is going. Good to get the numbers. Really, despite the fact they call it an 818, this is a pretty light car all things considered. And I think you made the right move adding a bit of weight for safety.

Thanks again for sharing. Enjoy the M3 hors d'oeuvres and Vette main-fare. =)

Best,
-j

[Santiago]

I installed the flat bottom engine tray and diffuser. ... I'm going to extend the diffuser fins back towards the motor/where is angles up at a later date.


Just a thought, but you might want to just leave them where they are now. I suspect that with all the other noise going on it won't make too much difference, but here's a pitch for their current position. In theory, the fins are there to define smaller volumes for the air to flow. You want a larger total volume to flow through the diffuser, but that lands you in trouble because air likes to just chill when it flows into a larger volume (read: it loses what bit of laminar flow it has enjoyed and becomes increasingly turbulent). So you divide up that increasing area into smaller elements. This allows you to get more volume w/o losing the laminar flow.

Ok, so here's my thought. While the air is squeezed under the car, it's all pretty happy with a nice flat bottom to flow along. Just aft of the main chassis, it encounters a slightly enlarging area (defined by the engine bay panel). It's probably still pretty happy flowing along that, since it isn't much of a difference from where it came. Now it hits the diffuser and start to enlarge even more. Again, it's probably still flowing pretty well. Things are apt to get dicey the further along you go - which suggests that you want to think of controlling that flow in the area of the diffuser with the largest volume. That's where the flow is in the greatest need of control. So my vote is for keeping the fins where they are now.

Of course, if I'm wrong about the air still flowing nicely around the entry of the diffuser, then it's jacked up entering your fins and their job is damage control from that point (but the damage is already done upstream). In this case, you would be better off moving the fins forward to prevent the flow from detaching from the engine bay/diffuser entry. Damage prevention is better than damage control.

We just don't know yet which situation we're in w/o some tests. Wool tufts and a Go-Pro would be nice... I still think you're in the first situation, but we're guessing here.

Best,
-j

[C.Plavan]

Well, here goes nothing...... She is all loaded up. Make sure to pray to the Motor and Anti Gremlin gods for me. I hope I have good news tomorrow, but I know how testing a new car can be. Fingers crossed.

Still waiting on the hood Martini graphics-

http://i.imgur.com/f0Go9brl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ekud1S6l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/RF2ZtsDl.jpg

BTW: Those rear tie downs work great.

[FFRSpec72]

Have fun, best of luck, hope all goes well.

[Hindsight]

Outstanding! Wishing you good luck and a successful practice day with no bad surprises!

[Mechie3]

Woo hoo ! In for some videos.

[mikeb75]

Best luck on the maiden voyage! Looking forward to videos & report.

[GUNS]

Good luck! BTW, I want your trailer...

[D Clary]

What do you have the front tied down to? Good luck!

[C.Plavan]

Misfire codes. Booooo. Anyone know if the cause could of been a low gas tank?

[Scargo]

I do believe if it starves very long it may, or go into limp mode. Did it reduce boost/power?

[Wayne Presley]

Are you logging fuel pressure?

[C.Plavan]

Just got home. I'm beat. I'll go into detail after I rest.

I'm James (real name on driver license)
http://i.imgur.com/RYjqL5jl.jpg


I could only muster a 2:01 with the Stock WRX TD04 trim. I probably could of shaved a few more seconds off, but traffic was everywhere and these Yahoo's were throwing mud on the track. I'm wanting more power already.

Nutshell- Seems like the car survived :) But I am having some serious boost creep issues. To a point where the ECU would cut gas. it only happened about 4 or so times, and was random. After the 4th time, I said enough- I'm not risking it. It only happened in 4th gear I believe. I'll look at the logs later. Hopefully I did not hurt the motor. It hit 18 pounds of boost when it should of been around 16. After the first time I threw 110 octane in it.

Very fun car, but I thought it would be faster. I think that has to do with the TD04 (fell on its face after 5500 RPM). Then again, I'm on Toyo's and not my normal Hoosiers. I'm probably not trusting the Aero fully yet since I have never driven a car with such downforce.

I was chasing gremlins, but still had fun. Everyone loved the car.

I had high speed aero push in one corner, the rest was good. I will take a degree or two out of the rear wing next time. I started at 9 degree AOA. It was just hard to judge because of all the cars out there.

http://i.imgur.com/8Epg4OLl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/HdupnVol.jpg

[Hindsight]

Congrats! Glad everything went well. I too noticed the stock turbo runs out of huff early (when test driving my donor). Obviously a tradeoff for better low rpm power for the street, but on the track you don't need that comprimise. Time to go turbo shopping :)

What kind of times is your RS putting down on this track?

[Santiago]

Hey! First place! Faster is always nice, but a great start even with the gremlins! Congrats!

Lap times are surely to drop, so I wouldn't put too much stock in that right now. And high-speed push at 9deg AOA was almost a certain thing given FFR's experience.

Best,
-j

[Brando]

Glad you made it back with a running car! I'm sure many will find comfort in that fact.
Chad, what track config were you running at Buttonwillow?

Were you running advanced group with Extreme Speed? You must have been getting caught it some mad traffic with that spread.

[metalmaker12]

Awesome !!!!

[Erik W. Treves]

nicely done....yeah the stock turbo is nice...but limiting...not designed for what you are wanting...but great proof of concept....now you have a great baseline to move off from!!! should make this spring very fun!! be safe!!

[C.Plavan]

Glad you made it back with a running car! I'm sure many will find comfort in that fact.
Chad, what track config were you running at Buttonwillow?

Were you running advanced group with Extreme Speed? You must have been getting caught it some mad traffic with that spread.

Thanks Brandon. We ran CW #13 the same as you. Since I had never run with them before, and was testing a new car they threw me in Advanced Intermediate. It had the dumb point by rules too. They said I could go to the higher group after the 2:01 but I would of lost a full session. I was running the same times as the advanced group (one guy was running 1:57's though). It was a little frustrating, but I was just there to test the car.

Other good data:
Oil temp: Even with my 8 qts of oil and cooler, the oil was getting to 240 degrees. I am going to vent the rear bumper more. The damn thing traps heat. I cant imagine the temps without a cooler. Element Tuning says they can see above 250 in their race car.
Coolant temp: never got above 220. Mostly in the 210 range.
AWIC temp: Never got over 120 degree's that I recall. I will look at logs. (around 75 degrees mid day)
Brakes: I'm not a fan of the stock pedal and Wilwoods. You have to stand on the brakes with alot of force. I plan on upgrading the pads to a racing set I know well to see if that helps with bite.
After a good run, tighten down all your hose clamps on you coolant lines/tubes. I caught one weeping on the engine (thanks to under engine tray)
Ditch the center rear view mirror- it was in my line of sight to where I could not see apexs etc. I took it off and was much more comfortable. The side mirrors (convex) provide more than enough vision.

PS I asked Santa this AM for a bigger turbo and injectors for Xmas. :) I need to see where I would fall in ST1. The TD04 is not good for racing because it poops out too soon. Not to mention I have 272 cams, so its really miss matched.

[C.Plavan]

Hey! First place! Faster is always nice, but a great start even with the gremlins! Congrats!

Lap times are surely to drop, so I wouldn't put too much stock in that right now. And high-speed push at 9deg AOA was almost a certain thing given FFR's experience.

Best,
-j

But remember that was without the front canards or door vents. I was in uncharted territory.

[Santiago]

But remember that was without the front canards or door vents. I was in uncharted territory.

Sure. Guess I was never convinced the design of those door vents would really improve front aero load. I suspect they're better for lowering drag as they vent a lot of pent up air. And canards are really not direct-downforce producing devices; they're air-directing devices. So if they give you better control of the airflow to something that would produce the downforce (like a wing), then you'll see significant gains. Otherwise, they're trim devices (also good for lowering drag in some instances).

Looking forward to seeing where you end up with the rear wing's AOA. That'll give some sense of what increase in downforce the FFR supplied pieces are producing.

Best,
-j

[D Clary]

I have had the issue with willwoods before with the high pedal effort. It makes heal toe difficult. I never found a good solution. I hope you can help find it. I don't think I really understand boost creep. If you have the boost set at 16 psi how does it go higher? Is it a slow reaction by the electronics? I have a manual boost control on my Mustang and it is rock solid. Also when you get a chance how did you tie your car down in the front and what inner panel did you delete for the door vents. Glad all went well on the shakedown

[C.Plavan]

What do you have the front tied down to? Good luck!

The radiator support. Not the best place, but it works. I'll come up with a better solution like the rear when I have some time. Its all that you can do with the splitter on. I could go through the LCA's, but I'm not a fan on pulling on suspension that way.

[Mechie3]

Glad you made it unscathed! The stock TD04 is good for DD and autocross where you spend most of your time between 3-5.5k rpms. My VF39 2.0WRX was much better on top end (though bottom end for DD sucked IMO). It's too bad the brace is so restrictive for easy turbo drop ins. If I knew how to weld and not just melt metal I'd make a new one.

[C.Plavan]

I have had the issue with willwoods before with the high pedal effort. It makes heal toe difficult. I never found a good solution. I hope you can help find it. I don't think I really understand boost creep. If you have the boost set at 16 psi how does it go higher? Is it a slow reaction by the electronics? I have a manual boost control on my Mustang and it is rock solid. Also when you get a chance how did you tie your car down in the front and what inner panel did you delete for the door vents. Glad all went well on the shakedown

Boost Creep- Wastegate cant keep up and it over boosts.

For the door vents I left off the triangle piece behind shock area, and the rear splash guards.

If they sent you the 818S door trim aluminum, you can cut those to use as shields or deflectors to keep rocks from hitting the coolant tubes and AWIC lines. Those pieces I removed did that job prior.

[C.Plavan]

Glad you made it unscathed! The stock TD04 is good for DD and autocross where you spend most of your time between 3-5.5k rpms. My VF39 2.0WRX was much better on top end (though bottom end for DD sucked IMO). It's too bad the brace is so restrictive for easy turbo drop ins. If I knew how to weld and not just melt metal I'd make a new one.

How much bigger is the Blouch DOM 1.5 than the TD04? You think it will fit? I dont think Brandon had any issues.

People kept on commenting how they liked how I was throwing flames out the exhaust......

[Brando]

My Blouch DOM 1.5 bolted right on. The only thing I changed was swapping my exhaust to a bellmouth because the wastegate was striking. It was quite a bit bigger than my TD04, in fact is was noticeably bigger than my TD05. I noticed no turbo lag from my DOM over my TD05... in fact despite what all the Dyno graphs show...the DOM feels much snappier and obviously does not run out of wind up top.

I'm glad to hear you say that about the brakes. I actually brought this up to Joe at Sema. With the R6's heated I can stand on the pedal with nearly all my force and the tires still won't lock up. I really does make heel-toe hard.
Joe was saying that when they switched to racing pads it make a huge difference. They squeak a lot, but Racecar. I am ordering some pads from Willwood here in the next week.
Oil temps were that high? Based on that I think I am going to go with that larger 2 fan oil cooler your were thinking about upgrading to. I wonder what my temps were climbing to without the oil cooler...and if that was one of leading factors to my last engine failure.

Great to hear the AWIC is doing its job...and i'm glad someone had some real data to verify that. I found myself having my mirror block the apex quite a bit as well, more so at BW than SOW. Cotton corners and Grapevine were the worst.

My car won't be ready to run until Jan. Hopefully you find the time to do a non NASA event with me.

[JeromeS13]

Other good data:

Coolant temp: never got above 220. Mostly in the 210 range.


I'm glad everything held together and you have some good working data. However, 220 is way too hot for these Subaru motors... 210 is pretty much as hot as I would recommend running it.

[Mechie3]

How much bigger is the Blouch DOM 1.5 than the TD04? You think it will fit? I dont think Brandon had any issues.

People kept on commenting how they liked how I was throwing flames out the exhaust......

Flames = awesome. Catless exhaust? Muffler?

I don't know if the turbo is the issue as much as the wastegate placement. I remember seeing a thread where someone modified the brace to fit a VF series turbo and someone else modified a VF39/43 (STI turbos) because they had 1/8" clearance for the wastegate arm.

[C.Plavan]

Flames = awesome. Catless exhaust? Muffler?

I don't know if the turbo is the issue as much as the wastegate placement. I remember seeing a thread where someone modified the brace to fit a VF series turbo and someone else modified a VF39/43 (STI turbos) because they had 1/8" clearance for the wastegate arm.

No muffler or cat because racecar. Thats the cause of Boost Creep issue.

[C.Plavan]

I'm glad everything held together and you have some good working data. However, 220 is way too hot for these Subaru motors... 210 is pretty much as hot as I would recommend running it.

That is from the aftermarket gauge that is tapped into the heater return. My AP showed lower.

[metalmaker12]

210 is a pretty good range for max, you could get up to 230 for short burst ( not recommend , but would hold it for short term) but no higher at all, so 220 is pretty close and you should shoot for sub 200 like 195-200 max to play it safe for street and like 215-230 for track

[C.Plavan]

This is probably the most boring driving video I have ever put out. This was one of the slowest sessions. The session where I was really pushing it, didn't record. I got all belted in and forgot to turn camera on, then waved over a guy to push the button.... he turned it off completely. O-well Murphy's law.

Anyway, I was fighting the boost creep, hated the brakes/braking, and was in traffic anyway so I just half assed it. Towards the end I see a Lotus Exige and turned it up a little. Owell- Enjoy the sound of a stock WRX header/motor. I promise the next videos will be better.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZwXqS2ljwI

[Wayne Presley]

I prefer the oil to get to over 215°F as it gets any water and volatile contaminants out. Any thing over 260°F needs to be addressed with a cooler. This is for synthetic oil. Refernces below.


We have customers that run the oils well above 280, but it's not something we recommend. You should be aiming to run around 220 to 230f. If you get toward 240 or 250, you look into how its being cooled. 260 or 270? You need to make some changes, in our eyes.

Again, I don't know what you're using, If you're going to look into Red Line, you should start with our 40WT Race. It's an ester-based 15W40 multigrade with lots of antiwear (ZDDP). Remember that going heavier isn't always best when trying to lower its temps, as a thicker fluid can trap heat.

Also considering a way to vent heat out from under the hood. That can make a dramatic drop in oil temp.

Hope that helps,
Cameron Evans
Red Line Oil







Bruce Crawley, Global Motorsports technology Manager for ExxonMobil was interviewed by Sports Car (the SCCA monthly) in the December 2010 issue.

Crawleystates,"when considering the optimum choice of viscosity grade of motor oilto use, the max oil operationg temp shoud be taken into account. For expample, a 0W-50running at 248F will have a similar viscosity to a 0W-30 operating at 212F."

According to Crawley"the best balance between oil life and performance comes in the range of 212 to 248F".

Finally, Crawleysuggests letting the oil get up to 194F before working it hard, as oil that is too cold will have a difficult time getting to vital engine parts under extreme loads.

When origianally researching this forum on this topic I found a post from an ex LS1 race motor builder who stated they informed their customers to not exceed 270 oil temp because the main journals go out of round at that temp. This is due to the difference in thermal expansion between the aluminum block and the iron bearing caps.

[C.Plavan]

I prefer the oil to get to over 215°F as it gets any water and volatile contaminants out. Any thing over 260°F needs to be addressed with a cooler. This is for synthetic oil. Refernces below.


We have customers that run the oils well above 280, but it's not something we recommend. You should be aiming to run around 220 to 230f. If you get toward 240 or 250, you look into how its being cooled. 260 or 270? You need to make some changes, in our eyes.

Again, I don't know what you're using, If you're going to look into Red Line, you should start with our 40WT Race. It's an ester-based 15W40 multigrade with lots of antiwear (ZDDP). Remember that going heavier isn't always best when trying to lower its temps, as a thicker fluid can trap heat.

Also considering a way to vent heat out from under the hood. That can make a dramatic drop in oil temp.

Hope that helps,
Cameron Evans
Red Line Oil







Bruce Crawley, Global Motorsports technology Manager for ExxonMobil was interviewed by Sports Car (the SCCA monthly) in the December 2010 issue.

Crawleystates,"when considering the optimum choice of viscosity grade of motor oilto use, the max oil operationg temp shoud be taken into account. For expample, a 0W-50running at 248F will have a similar viscosity to a 0W-30 operating at 212F."

According to Crawley"the best balance between oil life and performance comes in the range of 212 to 248F".

Finally, Crawleysuggests letting the oil get up to 194F before working it hard, as oil that is too cold will have a difficult time getting to vital engine parts under extreme loads.

When origianally researching this forum on this topic I found a post from an ex LS1 race motor builder who stated they informed their customers to not exceed 270 oil temp because the main journals go out of round at that temp. This is due to the difference in thermal expansion between the aluminum block and the iron bearing caps.

I'm using Brad Penn 20/50. It got to 240 with the Setrab cooler. There is a bigger one I will probably upgrade to (with fan pack also) I'm also going to cut the rear bumper up more to vent like the blue 818R. I could not believe how much hot air it traps. No wonder FFR did that.

[Wayne Presley]

The brakes should be great, do you know the compound you have. You should be able to significantly outbrake any of the cars you were running with. Here's a vid of the start of the last race at Barber. I'm in a virtually stock NA Lotus Elise on DOT race tires and both yellow cars have significantly more HP than me (different classes)


http://youtu.be/_ljrA_319Jo



Chad, you look pretty smooth out there. You can tell the turbo is running out of steam on top, there are spots where you hear the motor just fall off the higher you rev'd it.

[C.Plavan]

I have just the stock Wilwood pads that came with them. I have already ordered a race pad set I am familiar with and love on the Porsche. I'm hoping that will solve the braking issue.

That braking was awesome. That's like Porsche braking :)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Brakes: I'm not a fan of the stock pedal and Wilwoods. You have to stand on the brakes with alot of force. I plan on upgrading the pads to a racing set I know well to see if that helps with bite.


Hi Chad,
From my limited time in my 818 (about 75 autocross runs) I have determined that you need close to equal braking front and rear.

I believe you are using in the front:
FNSL6R which have 3.46 sq in. piston area

I believe you are using in the rear:
FNSL4R which have 1.96 sq in. piston area

When you use a proportional valve on the front, you may be turning down the front to match the rear, effectively wasting about 1/3 of your power into the PV.

Solution option #1. Use a balance bar pedal. All pedal force goes to the brakes.
Solution option #2. Use bigger piston in the rear brakes (my solution) to match the front stopping power.

What size pistons and how many in your Porsche brakes?
Does your Porsche have power brakes?

Bob
PS: I'm running 4.46 sq in front and 4.46 sq in rear.

[Wayne Presley]

.That braking was awesome. That's like Porsche braking :)

Here has a whole lap from the same race, also happens to be the new SCCA T3 lap record :cool:


http://youtu.be/uWNN-FyXn30?list=UUNG_-OtAAeStivtd2Mrp2_g

[longislandwrx]

Brakes: I'm not a fan of the stock pedal and Wilwoods. You have to stand on the brakes with alot of force. I plan on upgrading the pads to a racing set I know well to see if that helps with bite.



I'm glad to hear you say that about the brakes. I actually brought this up to Joe at Sema. With the R6's heated I can stand on the pedal with nearly all my force and the tires still won't lock up.

You guys need to stop skipping leg day and get your squats in. LOL


Awesome Chad! errr James? Glad the car held up and you posted top times first day out.

[Frank818]

Solution option #1. Use a balance bar pedal. All pedal force goes to the brakes.

Bob, you mean using 2 MCs, one for front and one for rear?

[C.Plavan]

Hi Chad,
From my limited time in my 818 (about 75 autocross runs) I have determined that you need close to equal braking front and rear.

I believe you are using in the front:
FNSL6R which have 3.46 sq in. piston area

I believe you are using in the rear:
FNSL4R which have 1.96 sq in. piston area

When you use a proportional valve on the front, you may be turning down the front to match the rear, effectively wasting about 1/3 of your power into the PV.

Solution option #1. Use a balance bar pedal. All pedal force goes to the brakes.
Solution option #2. Use bigger piston in the rear brakes (my solution) to match the front stopping power.

What size pistons and how many in your Porsche brakes?
Does your Porsche have power brakes?

Bob
PS: I'm running 4.46 sq in front and 4.46 sq in rear.

I have the 4 pistons up front also. 6 pistons would be overkill.

edit- missed that question on the Porsche Brakes- Nope no booster or power on it.

[FFRSpec72]

I have just the stock Wilwood pads that came with them. I have already ordered a race pad set I am familiar with and love on the Porsche. I'm hoping that will solve the braking issue.

That braking was awesome. That's like Porsche braking :)

FFR went with the Willwod race pads to fix some of the braking issues

[D Clary]

Looks like fun, I get the boost creep but 18 psi doesn't sound like the end. If your timing retart is ok then I would move the cutoff to allow 18 psi and leave the boost control at 16. Running 110 octane could raise youre engine temp as is start to get to be a slow burn at that octane and low compression you get more heat on the cylinder walls and into the coolant. I usually buy the 96 when I have to at the track. Where are you getting youre oil temp? I would get it from the oil pan or tank. If you are getting it from a block port you may be getting a false reading. All in all I looks like a very successful outing.

[wleehendrick]

No muffler or cat because racecar. Thats the cause of Boost Creep issue.

Chad, are you still using the Cobb OTS Stage II + EBCS map? The application notes say it can cause boost creep with no cat. Do you plan to get the Accesstuner S/W or get a custom tune for it? I'm interested to see your solution, since I have a preety similar set-up, just with a little Flowmaster muffler.

[Mechie3]

I ran 21psi on my DD with Td04 (not an OTS tune). Never had engine issues due to that high of a boost pressure with the TD04. Higher than that is bad.

[C.Plavan]

You guys need to stop skipping leg day and get your squats in. LOL


Awesome Chad! errr James? Glad the car held up and you posted top times first day out.

Haha- I think Brandon has me beat. My race pads should be here soon. I'll test it on "The Loop".


Looks like fun, I get the boost creep but 18 psi doesn't sound like the end. If your timing retart is ok then I would move the cutoff to allow 18 psi and leave the boost control at 16. Running 110 octane could raise youre engine temp as is start to get to be a slow burn at that octane and low compression you get more heat on the cylinder walls and into the coolant. I usually buy the 96 when I have to at the track. Where are you getting youre oil temp? I would get it from the oil pan or tank. If you are getting it from a block port you may be getting a false reading. All in all I looks like a very successful outing.

My oil temp is coming off the port/plug on the back of the block.


Chad, are you still using the Cobb OTS Stage II + EBCS map? The application notes say it can cause boost creep with no cat. Do you plan to get the Accesstuner S/W or get a custom tune for it? I'm interested to see your solution, since I have a preety similar set-up, just with a little Flowmaster muffler.

Yes, still using it. I switched the map at the track to LWG (or HWG- which ever one lowers the boost- Its confusing). That seemed to help a little bit, but did not cure the fuel cut. It felt like I was hitting the rev limiter. It was random, but usually in 4th gear. You will see me lifting alot in the video to take advantage of the blow off valve to keep it from happening.

My answer to fixing it was to ask Santa for Injectors and a DOM 1.5xtr 10cm turbo...... ST1 here I come.

[metalmaker12]

There you go, but go twin scroll too!!

[wleehendrick]

Yes, still using it. I switched the map at the track to LWG (or HWG- which ever one lowers the boost- Its confusing). That seemed to help a little bit, but did not cure the fuel cut. It felt like I was hitting the rev limiter. It was random, but usually in 4th gear. You will see me lifting alot in the video to take advantage of the blow off valve to keep it from happening.

4th gear makes sense, since you spend more time under WOT there, I guess. Thanks for the info, I'll start off with the HWG tune then (which lowers boost IIRC) and if I experience it, see if a custom tune will address it.


My answer to fixing it was to ask Santa for Injectors and a DOM 1.5xtr 10cm turbo...... ST1 here I come.

Nice... :p That's one way to fix it!

[Brando]

My answer to fixing it was to ask Santa for Injectors and a DOM 1.5xtr 10cm turbo...... ST1 here I come.

I also went with the 10cm but in hindsight wish I had gone with the 8cm. ST1? Yowser that's going to be intense

[Hindsight]

Huh? I heard my name.....

[Aero STI]

I would recommend the twin-scroll EFR7163. ;)

http://i.imgur.com/AJVcxvf.jpg

[metalmaker12]

I also went with the 10cm but in hindsight wish I had gone with the 8cm. ST1? Yowser that's going to be intense


The 8cm really does not spool any sooner. The efficiency range of the 1.5 is 18-25 psi. The twin scroll and avcs are the trick to getting power earlier

[C.Plavan]

I also went with the 10cm but in hindsight wish I had gone with the 8cm. ST1? Yowser that's going to be intense

Why is that? You have a 2.0L right? I have the 272 cams with 2.5L so the 10cm was recommended.

[C.Plavan]

With my current weight and running 245 or less DOT tires I could stay in ST2 if I had 270 RWHP- I'm guessing I have 230ish now. What turbo would be good for racing and 270 HP? I'm sure a tune can make it (bigger turbo) any HP I want really. I was looking at the TD04 19T upgrade that Blouch does, pretty cheap- but not sure it would fit specs to stay in or maximize ST2 class.

[Erik W. Treves]

I used the 2012 wrx turbo with a tune from Wayne and got 278 rwhp..I picked it up for 200....

[Wayne Presley]

Chad, You can use the electronic boost control to keep the RWHP at the ST2 HP/weight ratio over a wide RPM range. You want the smallest turbo that will provide that HP without falling off the sweet spot of the compressor map. BTW the car that I have in the shop made 411 RWHP with a 2.5 shortblock, 2.0 heads, BC 272 cams and Blouch 2.5 XTR turbo.

BTW, don't you have some arm restraints :cool:

[C.Plavan]

Chad, You can use the electronic boost control to keep the RWHP at the ST2 HP/weight ratio over a wide RPM range. You want the smallest turbo that will provide that HP without falling off the sweet spot of the compressor map. BTW the car that I have in the shop made 411 RWHP with a 2.5 shortblock, 2.0 heads, BC 272 cams and Blouch 2.5 XTR turbo.

BTW, don't you have some arm restraints :cool:

I had the arm restraints on- loosened up so I could point if I needed to because of dumb point by passing rule.

Now just trying to find that perfect turbo, or just go big to ST1. Decisions, decisions. I want to also see if new rules are coming out.

[longislandwrx]

4th gear makes sense, since you spend more time under WOT there, I guess. Thanks for the info, I'll start off with the HWG tune then (which lowers boost IIRC) and if I experience it, see if a custom tune will address it.


HWG map will RAISE boost for people not hitting target. You want LWG map for less if you are overboosting

[C.Plavan]

Couple of pictures from the Test.
http://i.imgur.com/lnE8ZHLl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/9d6evsyl.jpg

[wleehendrick]

Couple of pictures from the Test.

Great shots! But, you need a new helmet or graphics (Porsche... there is a substitute)


HWG map will RAISE boost for people not hitting target. You want LWG map for less if you are overboosting

Thanks for the clarification; as Chad said, counter-intuitive!

[Evan78]

For the high/low wastegate, just try to remember that the boost control solenoid is actively keeping the wastegate closed to reach the desired boost level. Without wastegate duty cycles, the solenoid would allow the wastegate to open early because the only thing keeping it closed is a spring. Higher duty cycles = wastegate closed longer = higher boost.

[iWire]

Couple of pictures from the Test.
http://i.imgur.com/lnE8ZHLl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/9d6evsyl.jpg

Glad to see it "mostly" worked out well! I'm stealing these for the FB page. ;D

[C.Plavan]

No problem.

I also decided I'll be adding to the roll bar. Looking at those pictures, then heading out to the garage to see if it would pass the "Broom Stick" test. It didn't :( . Roll it and it's "El Cruncho" I have my seat practically on the floor, and moved back along with the firewall mod. I may just add a windshield like my original plan and cage it in. Or just add some bars like on some Lotus 211's to protect the driver. Not that pretty- but much, much safer. It will stiffen up the chassis nicely too. I like being alive.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t53/plastique999/LotusCupUSA/211jack3.jpg

[Mechie3]

Being alive has many advantages. I'm a big fan myself. :)

[Frank818]

These Lotuses look like the 818, apart from that huge complete cage that Chad will weld on soon.

[flynntuna]

Back in the day roll bars only added weight:rolleyes:

36403

[C.Plavan]

Back in the day roll bars only added weight:rolleyes:

36403

I know- I'm going to try to see if I can rake the seat back more. I do not think it will pass tech.

[C.Plavan]

Anyone need a size large OMP 2 layer SFI driving suit in red? Never worn, still in bag with tags. I won this and never wore it or needed it. #IA01833061L

http://i.imgur.com/qeZYfUil.jpg?1

http://www.ompsport.com/product_info.php/cPath/1/products_id/479

First $225 + Shipping to my fellow 818 builders.

[D Clary]

I noticed in the photos you were a little high in the seat. Tilting the seat back will probably work. My problem is with the shoulder harness. The harness bar is useless for me. To get my shoulders high enough to use it , my head is to high. I am planning to use the square tubing under it but am having to move things around to get high enough. It is a little 818 ergonomic problem.

[FFRSpec72]

No problem.

I also decided I'll be adding to the roll bar. Looking at those pictures, then heading out to the garage to see if it would pass the "Broom Stick" test. It didn't :( . Roll it and it's "El Cruncho" I have my seat practically on the floor, and moved back along with the firewall mod. I may just add a windshield like my original plan and cage it in. Or just add some bars like on some Lotus 211's to protect the driver. Not that pretty- but much, much safer. It will stiffen up the chassis nicely too. I like being alive.



So unless you actually change the front hoop from a low to a high you still have to meet the requirement that the drivers helmet must fit under a line drawn from the main hoop to the front hoop. This is almost the same cage that is in the Challenge car (same height for front and main hoop, same distance from floor to top of main and front hoop). I don't think anyone has changed the main or front hoop, some folks have added a "California hallo" that goes from main hoop to front hoop (next to driver) and an optional cross bar to side bars (drivers side), but still have to meet the rules since this additions does not change the hoop, just add protection in case of a roll over. I will be adding the "California hallo". I have already had my cage inspected with my seat positioning, so pending I don't alter that I should have no issues, but the whole car needs a final annual inspection to go racing and nothing is a done deal yet.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r27/snkbtn/2010%20FFR/DaveStandridge.jpg

[C.Plavan]

Just looking at it, my idea was to raise the front hoop up to the top of the R windshield. Then maybe a few additional bars.

Edit- I just removed the bottom overly stuffed seat cushion.... I think I dropped around 2"- It looks like Racetech sells a Super low cushion which is 30mm lower than the cushion I have. I ordered it. I think I may be ok.

[Zach34]

Chad, how was the wind? Having never tracked a car with no significant windscreen I'm wondering if you were getting beat up by it?

[Jaime]

Anything under 140 is not bad with a helmet. I've been out in the wind at 195 on a motorcycle and at that speed, you have to work to keep looking straight.

[D Clary]

How did you attach the tiedowns to the front of your car?

[C.Plavan]

How did you attach the tiedowns to the front of your car?

I replied to you Post #885

[Brando]

Same spot on the same turn :)

I have my seats mounted 1/4" off the floor and passed my broomstick test. It was close and I had to sit my head back to the headrest but i did clear it and I am 6'4" on a bad day.
I bet with some seat adjusting you can make it work.

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/compare_zps9dc68704.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/compare_zps9dc68704.jpg.html)


Your car sits much more even, I need to get into my suspension more. Actually, I need a running car first.

[D Clary]

Thanks sorry I missed the post. Hard to find something solid up there that you can reach.

[C.Plavan]

Anyone want to buy a turnkey 818R? Lol
http://www.motorsport.com/roadracing/news/nasa-unveils-new-elan-built-59-995-prototype

[metalmaker12]

Wow that's pretty cool though

[Mechie3]

Bah..I should have gone to PRI since it's just down the street from me.

[bstuke]

Anyone want to buy a turnkey 818R? Lol
http://www.motorsport.com/roadracing/news/nasa-unveils-new-elan-built-59-995-prototype

Not for $60K...

[C.Plavan]

Not for $60K...

I meant my 818R- not the link. :)

[nkw8181]

Hey Chad I ran the numbers when I made my seat mounts and ended up with the middle of the seat at a 35 deg angle. The ratio was ~1:2 meaning when I raised the front of my seat the top dropped about two inches

See post 102
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12663-nkw8181-s-818-build-thread/page3

[C.Plavan]

Same spot on the same turn :)

I have my seats mounted 1/4" off the floor and passed my broomstick test. It was close and I had to sit my head back to the headrest but i did clear it and I am 6'4" on a bad day.
I bet with some seat adjusting you can make it work.

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/compare_zps9dc68704.jpg (http://s1369.photobucket.com/user/tekbroker/media/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/compare_zps9dc68704.jpg.html)


Your car sits much more even, I need to get into my suspension more. Actually, I need a running car first.

Don't base much off of pictures. That could of been my warm up lap or cool down lap with me just taking it easy.

I ordered that lower seat cushion from RaceTech Seats. That will help big time. I pass the "Broomstick" test without my helmet, I just never my helmet was so big.... lol. I can raise the front of the seat to angle it back, but getting to the seat bolts on the drivers side is a huge pain in the ***. I either need to remove the rear under seat aluminum, or take off the side pod and intrusion plate to get access to the left front bolt. I guess I could take the door off to see if I could cut and access hole through the intrusion panel, however there might be a bar in the way. I can get the left rear seat bolt with some wiggling.

[Brando]

Anyone want to buy a turnkey 818R?
http://www.motorsport.com/roadracing/news/nasa-unveils-new-elan-built-59-995-prototype

Wow that is awesome...and frustrating.

[Santiago]

Anyone want to buy a turnkey 818R? Lol
http://www.motorsport.com/roadracing/news/nasa-unveils-new-elan-built-59-995-prototype

That is seriously cool...and if the spec series doesn't take off, wonder what options there are for upgrading the power? At least we can say we've got that going for the 818 - serious room to grow in the power department.

This NP01 has a prototype chassis build specifically around a 2-liter Mazda engine, so even something as straightforward as adding a turbo may prove difficult.

Best,
-j

[C.Plavan]

That is seriously cool...and if the spec series doesn't take off, wonder what options there are for upgrading the power? At least we can say we've got that going for the 818 - serious room to grow in the power department.

This NP01 has a prototype chassis build specifically around a 2-liter Mazda engine, so even something as straightforward as adding a turbo may prove difficult.

Best,
-j

They are sending me all the info on Monday. I'm going to read the fine print.

[C.Plavan]

They already got me the details. It is a complete car. All you add are seatbelts and fluids. You get everything- Motor, ECU, wiring, Sequential trans, fuel cell, everything. Only bad thing, it is twice the price of a properly prep'd 818R. :(

Someone make me an offer on my 818R :)

[Mechie3]

Well, I'll start the bidding.


I have $40 in my wallet so I'll start there. :D

That car does sound like a lot of fun though.

[Santiago]

$60K for a new race car sounds like a steal really. A factory built Ford Mustang Boss 302S will run you $35K more than that, and I bet this thing easily runs circles around it. It's fully built right? EDIT: Ah, I see...$60K for the introductory price of an "easily assembled kit." So, let's see: your labor, all new parts, custom built, yaddah-yaddah. Still sounds hard to beat - somebody is losing money and I bet these won't be available at this price for too long.

Even if the fledgling spec series doesn't make it, I have a feeling (at that power level) you can slap some slicks on it and go dominate ST3. Chad, is the 1,550 lbs w/o driver? If so, a smidge of ballast and you avoid some of the more nasty light-weight penalties in the ST classes. Man, this car could be really great.

Best,
-j

[C.Plavan]

$60K for a new race car sounds like a steal really. A factory built Ford Mustang Boss 302S will run you $35K more than that, and I bet this thing easily runs circles around it. It's fully built right? EDIT: Ah, I see...$60K for the introductory price of an "easily assembled kit." So, let's see: your labor, all new parts, custom built, yaddah-yaddah. Still sounds hard to beat - somebody is losing money and I bet these won't be available at this price for too long.

Even if the fledgling spec series doesn't make it, I have a feeling (at that power level) you can slap some slicks on it and go dominate ST3. Chad, is the 1,550 lbs w/o driver? If so, a smidge of ballast and you avoid some of the more nasty light-weight penalties in the ST classes. Man, this car could be really great.

Best,
-j

That's W/O driver. They have to get an order for 8 before they start building. I'm probably just wait to see what comes about. I would have to sell the 818R of course, which would be tough after all the hard work. Then another project car I have. Not sure if I can part with that though.

In the meantime I'll just upgrade the turbo on the 818R and make some M3's and Corvette's mad.

[FFRSpec72]

They already got me the details. It is a complete car. All you add are seatbelts and fluids. You get everything- Motor, ECU, wiring, Sequential trans, fuel cell, everything. Only bad thing, it is twice the price of a properly prep'd 818R. :(

Someone make me an offer on my 818R :)

Yea but comes with a dry sump, which is half the cost of 818 !

[Wayne Presley]

Yea but comes with a dry sump, which is half the cost of 818 !

Here's the quote. Not really complete ready to run car...
"With an introductory complete kit price of just $59,995, " "Élan will build each NP01 to order and ship them either as an easily assembled kit or completed vehicle per the customer's request. "

[C.Plavan]

Here's the quote. Not really complete ready to run car...
"With an introductory complete kit price of just $59,995, " "Élan will build each NP01 to order and ship them either as an easily assembled kit or completed vehicle per the customer's request. "

I meant "Complete", as in no other parts to buy. Of course you have to build it.

[C.Plavan]

Being that I have been sick all week, I was going stir crazy. I was finally feeling OK today so I went out and swapped the brake pads to my new racing compound. I took the 818R around the loop to break in the pads, and could IMMEDIATELY feel the difference. This is how the braking should of felt. I was locking them up when I was being careful getting heat into them (with minimal pedal effort unlike having to stand on them before). I'm really going to need to adjust the bias towards the back now once I get it back on the track.

PS- Santa has go fast parts incoming.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

PS- Santa has go fast parts incoming.

Chad
do you have a balance bar to adjust your bias, or are you using a Proportional valve to reduce front braking?
What pads did you go with?
Bob

[Brando]

I took the 818R around the loop to break in the pads, and could IMMEDIATELY feel the difference. This is how the braking should of felt. I was locking them up when I was being careful getting heat into them (with minimal pedal effort unlike having to stand on them before).

That made my day. What pads did you end up going with?

[C.Plavan]

I'm using the supplied proportioning valve that I modified for real time adjustment on the dash.
http://i.imgur.com/HdupnVol.jpg

I went with the Raybestos racing pad ST45. I usually use ST43 but they they said I should try the 45 for the same characteristics, just a little more friction.

[Hindsight]

.... And what were you using before (so i can steer clear)

[C.Plavan]

.... And what were you using before (so i can steer clear)

What ever came with the Wilwoods. I think BP30 pads- horrible.

[Hindsight]

Good to know. Glad you found something that works. Will go a long way to making that next test session more enjoyable.

[D Clary]

Where did you get them Chad the only thing I have fount through wildwood is a bp30. Is there a raybestos part #for the application? I think we have the same brakes.

[C.Plavan]

Where did you get them Chad the only thing I have fount through wildwood is a bp30. Is there a raybestos part #for the application? I think we have the same brakes.

http://www.porterfield-brakes.com/ They will set you up. They carry all the popular race pads. Just let them know what caliper models you have. I don't have part numbers handy.

[C.Plavan]

I was able to mess around with the car today. I cut an additional vent in the rear and covered it in mesh I picked up. I didn't like the FFR "mesh" as it does not allow alot of airflow.

The light reflection on the trim plays weird with the camera- makes it look wavy. In person it looks good and straight.
http://i.imgur.com/7bgMA8xl.jpg

I also finished up the hatch cut out.
http://i.imgur.com/gtMoHrIl.jpg

Close up of aluminum grill mesh.
http://i.imgur.com/5lh1BVTl.jpg

I'll finish the bottom rear vent after I install the new turbo and injectors. I already started removing the old TD04 turbo.

[Wayne Presley]

Chad, what turbo did you get?

[C.Plavan]

Chad, what turbo did you get?

Well, I asked "Santa" for a Blouch Dom 1.5xtr 10cm and Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors..... I have been a very good boy. haha

[Mechie3]

Where did you get the mesh? Is it flat perforated metal or ribbed expanded metal? That's the same pattern and size hole I've been looking for.

[C.Plavan]

Where did you get the mesh? Is it flat perforated metal or ribbed expanded metal? That's the same pattern and size hole I've been looking for.

Ribbed expanded aluminum. Its really light/bendable so you can use it on curved stuff if needed.

I bough a 12x48 piece off of Ebay. ~$28 shipped. (search for grill mesh)

[nkw8181]

Is that the honeycomb or diamond?

[C.Plavan]

Is that the honeycomb or diamond?

Its more Honeycomb than Diamond.

[C.Plavan]

Well something showed up early!

http://i.imgur.com/scUdKKYl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/mOUISGtl.jpg

I also went and picked up a sheet of aluminum (.060) to make my fuel cell firewall. I grabbed a ton of poster board to make the template.

http://i.imgur.com/haK9ORMl.jpg

[C.Plavan]

Post Xmas update.

I removed the TD04 without much hassle. But when trying to install the DOM 1.5, since it is bigger, it will require a little more work to get in. When trying to install it, it hits the shock tower brace. I may try and remove the up pipe, or the studs first. If that does not work, I will have to remove the shock tower brace/ wing mount.

Moral of the story, if you plan on upgrading the turbo, do it sooner than later.

[Hindsight]

Wow, I'm surprised a stock-location turbo won't clear the brace. That brace is REALLY in the way. Would be nice if FFR re-designed it at some point to give better clearance Clarence.

[metalmaker12]

Funny cause my dom 1.5 ts fit better than the stock vf37 ts

[C.Plavan]

Funny cause my dom 1.5 ts fit better than the stock vf37 ts

Did you remove up pipe first? Or just throw it on?

[metros]

Let me know if you decide to part with the shock tower brace and wing mount. I liked the way you had it laid out and would be easier to not rebuild it.

[C.Plavan]

Let me know if you decide to part with the shock tower brace and wing mount. I liked the way you had it laid out and would be easier to not rebuild it.

It just hits when installing, I just loosened everything up (Rear shock mount, removed shock bolts, removed rear wing mount bolts, drilled out rivets for body on shock brace, etc) and I can get turbo on. It's just a PITA to have to do all that to get a new turbo on. It doesn't interfere once its on the up pipe studs.
Now I'm running into a different problem I need some help on.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?16587-New-turbo-install-questions

[C.Plavan]

Alright- I got the turbo installed with some help from this forum (Thanks!). I'm just clueless with turbos and this is my 1st time messing with them.
http://i.imgur.com/y8nQPsvl.jpg

Next is replacing the injectors. It shouldn't be too hard, but I'm sure I will run into some issue. Murphey's Law and all.

[Scargo]

You will love the turbo. We are here to help/hinder or both. Bring on the injectors! Do you have a good fuel pump (up to the task)?

[C.Plavan]

You will love the turbo. We are here to help/hinder or both. Bring on the injectors! Do you have a good fuel pump (up to the task)?

Yes- I had Fuel Safe throw a upgraded Walbro in the fuel cell.

[Tamra]

Are you using the Plug and Play adapters for the ID1000's?

[C.Plavan]

Are you using the Plug and Play adapters for the ID1000's?

Yep. Santa brought those also.

[C.Plavan]

This should be interesting.

Thick Gold Chains not included.......

http://i.imgur.com/bQXUrIJl.jpg

[nkw8181]

I look forward to hearing the results!

[metalmaker12]

Good luck, stay safe!

[C.Plavan]

Thanks- Still have 2 months until the first race. I want to test a couple more times before then.

[Hindsight]

Oh man, that looks like a great race!

[C.Plavan]

My racing buddy and I started installing the Fire System today. We got the Fire pulls all figured out and routed, and started the hardline route. We are going to have 2 nozzles on the driver, one on the fuel cell, and 3 on the motor (Turbo/pass injectors, middle, driver side injectors/fuel lines). Should be pretty straight forward. I need to make some mounts for a couple of the nozzles.

I also got the rear end wing mount/shock strut/ shocks back on. I started up the car with the new turbo to check for leaks. All good! I will probably get to the new injector install tomorrow.

Happy New Year!

[Scargo]

I got this OMP system from Pegasus (http://www.tf-works.com/omp-afff-fire-system-2-8l-end-valve-bottle-electric/). Five nozzles and 2.8 L of "Ecolife film forming foam". I don't have a clue how to route it. I see OMP is now offering it with seven nozzles.
I am surprised that there would be nozzles directed at the driver. It would be nice if I could get some guidance on nozzle placement and, since this system is so important, routing of the tubing, placement of the tank and so on. I do know a couple of people that may know. Suggestions?
Car's looking good!

[C.Plavan]

I got this OMP system from Pegasus (http://www.tf-works.com/omp-afff-fire-system-2-8l-end-valve-bottle-electric/). Five nozzles and 2.8 L of "Ecolife film forming foam". I don't have a clue how to route it. I see OMP is now offering it with seven nozzles.
I am surprised that there would be nozzles directed at the driver. It would be nice if I could get some guidance on nozzle placement and, since this system is so important, routing of the tubing, placement of the tank and so on. I do know a couple of people that may know. Suggestions?
Car's looking good!

I'll take some pictures when I'm done. But you want at least one nozzle on the driver area spraying mid torso down. You don't want to be on fire either :)

[Wayne Presley]

I'd do one spraying on the upper rear corner of each head, one on each front each head spraying the front of the motor and back of the fuel cell and one on the side of the driver spraying from the knees to the shoulders

[C.Plavan]

I was able to get all the new injectors in. Not too bad to install except the passenger front injector. That one was a PITA- Luckily I removed the "Green Brackets of Death" before I installed the motor.

I also picked this bad boy up for 45% off.... I always wanted one of these to fab aluminum pieces. I added some casters with brakes so I can store it easily. This will help big time for the fuel cell firewall box I'm making.
http://i.imgur.com/wIagJhPl.jpg

I am going to try and call the Tuner on Monday to make an appointment. It will probably be an all day thing since he is 3 hours away. I will need 2 race tunes, one for ST2 (around 270HP) class and one for ST1 (around 360HP) class. They are both HP/weight classes. That way, I can just pick who I want to race with if one class has a bigger field for tire contingencies.

[Hindsight]

Nice idea on a tune for each class! Should be able to hit 360 on that dom 1.5 on 91 octane but I would bet it might be close (unless you are using race fuel in which case I think 360 would be very easy). Are you going MAF or speed density?

[C.Plavan]

Nice idea on a tune for each class! Should be able to hit 360 on that dom 1.5 on 91 octane but I would bet it might be close (unless you are using race fuel in which case I think 360 would be very easy). Are you going MAF or speed density?

Whatever the Tuner recommends. I'm clueless with this turbo stuff :) . Its all a whole new world for me. I will be using a minimum 100 octane.

[Hindsight]

Oh, no problem making 360 at the wheels on 100 octane race gas for sure.

MAF = Uses hot wire sensor in intake to measure mass of air in order to determine fuel needed. Also uses a vac/pressure sensor.
Speed Density (also called MAP) - Uses only intake temp sensor and vac/pressure sensor to determine fuel needed.

Both of course use crank position sensor, etc.

I think MAP would be better for your racing application but that's just me. Will be interested in what the tuner says.

[Frank818]

I will be using a minimum 100 octane.

Curious, what's the max available? 110?

[Scargo]

I never thought of keeping my options open as far as class goes. Cool.
My tuner did SD. I think that's probably where you are heading.
I forget your engine specs but 400 should be easy with 100 octane. Perhaps even 93. I'm doing 400 at all four wheels in my STi with stock cams, but it's a DAVCS motor. Blouch 2.5 Dominator XTR with small turbine side.