Plavan's 818R Build Thread

[Bill Waters]

Thanks, Chad.

[Brando]

Also if you use the Baer Bumpsteer (a must with the R ride height to eliminate nastly bumpsteer) they recommend the below spacers at R height (Drill out taper and use bolt with 2- 7/16th spacer-

Looking at the Baer Bumpsteer Kit (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bae-3851001?seid=srese1&gclid=CPm9w6T-mL4CFQqIfgod53QA7w) I don't understand what "drill out taper" pertains to.

Did you do this on yours already? Can you snap a picture?

[longislandwrx]

The Baer kit has a tapered bolt that replaces the tie rod end in the knuckle. I think they are saying drill out the knuckle straight and replace the Baer piece with a longer bolt. Looking at mine, you can see theres no way to fit 2 7/16s worth of spacers on there.

28877

this is not set up. just bolted it on.

[D Clary]

I have installed a few bump steer kits and usually you need to drill out the spindle . Do you have access to a bump steer tool or are you just going by their spec.

[C.Plavan]

Sorry Brando. I'm on a business trip and just saw this. I think the other guys answered it.
I have not done it yet, but yes I will just drill out the taper and use a longer bolt (same size diameter of bump steer). Then I will cut tubing to use as a spacer to their specs.

[FFRSpec72]

The Baer kit has a tapered bolt that replaces the tie rod end in the knuckle. I think they are saying drill out the knuckle straight and replace the Baer piece with a longer bolt. Looking at mine, you can see theres no way to fit 2 7/16s worth of spacers on there.

28877

this is not set up. just bolted it on.

Correct the tie rod ends are tapered and most bump steer kits use straight bolts and thus the spindle ends needs to be drilled where the tie rod end goes to fit the bump steer ends

[C.Plavan]

Alright- Got around to working on the car again. All the brake lines are complete. :)

I ran the rear brake lines down the center of the car (My Fuel Safe Cell will be in passenger area). I notched the lower aluminum firewall, then split them at the rear. Like others, I try to "hide" the brake lines from the header/engine heat. I may throw some angled aluminum on the sections that can't "hide".
The other benefit of running them down the center is keeping them away from the coolant lines. I did run the clutch line down the side since that is not a big deal. I just need to add a few clamps in some areas.

http://i.imgur.com/q729rPAl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/3NIeefcl.jpg (http://imgur.com/3NIeefc)

http://i.imgur.com/KiacEqbl.jpg



Then I mocked up the aluminum coolant tubes......I love them! I just need to mess with the Driver side front pieces to get them to sit how I like them.

http://i.imgur.com/IqHlwhyl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/PNQcHNYl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/OcAhvkil.jpg

[C.Plavan]

http://i.imgur.com/8I5HNwIl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/dyCZQ1Ll.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/co4bD46l.jpg

[C.Plavan]

Side note- My buddies and I built and race a BMW E30 in Chumpcar out West. We raced a FULL 24 hour race last weekend. Best part....WE WON! It was so much fun to finally win it. We raced the full 24hrs (1560 miles). We broke a couple of times, but rushed to fix it. We all got about 2 hours of sleep (6 of us driving and crewing). I suggest everyone do a Chumpcar race at some point in your life.
http://i.imgur.com/9YYt3ZVl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/vwI0H2yl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Xj0RyV3l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8oB8KUul.jpg

[68GT500MAN]

Long endurance races are a lot of fun. I have ben on the crew of three 25 hour events up at Thunder Hill Raceway and know the excitement of finishing the race.
Doug

[longislandwrx]

Those tubes are nice! Is that how they came or did you polish them up? Who did you end up getting them from? I think Everson was cheaper by a few bucks.

[C.Plavan]

Thanks!

I bought them through Breeze Automotive. They came all polished up. Took maybe 10 min to mock them up. They wrote on the pipes where they go which is a nice touch. I figured I would share the love since I bought a ton of stuff from Mike already :).

[metalmaker12]

Cool stuff man!!!

[wallace18]

Great build and great result from the race. Congrats!

[C.Plavan]

Thanks guys. I'm starting to see the end of the tunnel!

Coolant tank relocation bracket install and drilled/tapped the Degas valve. I hope it doesn't leak :) . I just need to go get some new hose for the degas line, then figure out where I want to mount the rear expansion tank.

http://i.imgur.com/L3b0SQYl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/r7aZcBCl.jpg

I'm getting ready to order the Fuel Safe cell. I'm leaning towards the 17 gallon cell (Outside can dimensions 20.125" x 17.125" x 12.75") It will fit in the passenger area nicely. I will never run it full, but if I start racing enduros, the 17 gallons will help.

[Mechie3]

Nice bracket. Lol.

Those cooling tu es really do look nice. I may have to break down and buy a set.

[wallace18]

Thanks guys. I'm starting to see the end of the tunnel!

Coolant tank relocation bracket install and drilled/tapped the Degas valve. I hope it doesn't leak :) . I just need to go get some new hose for the degas line, then figure out where I want to mount the rear expansion tank.

http://i.imgur.com/L3b0SQYl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/r7aZcBCl.jpg

I'm getting read to order the Fuel Safe cell. I'm leaning towards the 17 gallon cell (Outside can dimensions 20.125" x 17.125" x 12.75") It will fit in the passenger area nicely. I will never run it full, but if I start racing enduros, the 17 gallons will help.

I would go with 17Gal. I lost a big race years ago for the want of 1 more gal. of fuel. LOL.

[C.Plavan]

I would go with 17Gal. I lost a big race years ago for the want of 1 more gal. of fuel. LOL.

Ohhh I know this all too well...... 2007 enduro race with Patrick Long (Porsche Factory Driver) as my co-driver...He ran out of gas with about 1.5 laps to go in the overall lead..... The video cuts out before hand due to battery.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ch4Jip2Z2vk

[C.Plavan]

Nice bracket. Lol.

Those cooling tubes really do look nice. I may have to break down and buy a set.

Yeah- Some guy likes making parts that I HAVE to buy...... Actually, There are a FEW guys that keep making parts I HAVE to buy.... haha

[Triathletedave]

Alright- Got around to working on the car again. All the brake lines are complete. :)

I ran the rear brake lines down the center of the car (My Fuel Safe Cell will be in passenger area). I notched the lower aluminum firewall, then split them at the rear. Like others, I try to "hide" the brake lines from the header/engine heat. I may throw some angled aluminum on the sections that can't "hide".
The other benefit of running them down the center is keeping them away from the coolant lines. I did run the clutch line down the side since that is not a big deal. I just need to add a few clamps in some areas.

http://i.imgur.com/q729rPAl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/3NIeefcl.jpg (http://imgur.com/3NIeefc)

http://i.imgur.com/KiacEqbl.jpg



Then I mocked up the aluminum coolant tubes......I love them! I just need to mess with the Driver side front pieces to get them to sit how I like them.

http://i.imgur.com/IqHlwhyl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/PNQcHNYl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/OcAhvkil.jpg

I have the same coolant tubes from Breeze. It certainly was a breeze installing them. I also purchased a box of 10 additional 2 inch insulated tubing clamps from au-ve-co products to mount them up nice and secure. Be very careful around the steering knuckle, as there is not a lot of clearance. The extra clamps were needed around the steering linkage.

[C.Plavan]

Yes- I noticed how close it can be to the knuckle. I took time manipulating it to get it where I liked. I have two more clamps, but I'm going to wait till I fill it up and get it running. I'll add another clamp up there just to be safe.

[C.Plavan]

BAER 818R Spacer Install

This is what I did. Seemed to work well so feel free to use this as a guide.

Things you will need:
5/8" drill bit
A step drill bit that has a 5/8" step in it
2- Grade 8, 5/8" hex bolt (5" works the best for me)
2- Grade 8 Lock nuts (and washers if you want to be extra safe)
1- 1/2 pipe long enough to cut to make (2) 2 7/16th spacers. I grabbed a single 1/2 x 7" galvanized pipe from the plumbing section. Take your 5" bolts and test fit them inside. Mine fit perfectly.
Sawzall
Flat metal file
Black Paint

Step 1-

Cut pipe (I used a Sawzall). I cut the threaded ends off one side, then measured 2-7/16" and marked it. Cut it trying to keep it straight. I cleaned it up with a metal file. Repeat for 2nd spacer.

Step 2-

Measure everything again, and file flat if there are any high points. If you have to file away a little more below 2-7/16th, its OK because you can always use the included shims that came with the Baer kit to bring it back to 2- 7/16th (notice one spacer has a shim) ***also note those are 4.5" bolts- the 5" bolts are required for the hardware I used.
http://i.imgur.com/I4xmZpil.jpg

Step 3-

Paint the spacers if you like and let them dry while you start working on the spindles. (See Above...ooooohhhhh Aaaahhhhhhh)

Step 4-

Grab the Step drill bit and mark with a Sharpie the 5/8" step. The step drill is important. It makes it so you can center the 5/8" drill bit later. Drill down with the step drill ONLY TO THE 5/8" step (Sharpie Mark)
http://i.imgur.com/DcA5fTDl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/iiJm2t1l.jpg

Step 5-

Grab the 5/8" drill bit and drill down trying to maintain correct alignment- If the drill bit is grabbing alot, re-position straight in relation to the hole.

http://i.imgur.com/A1bDfE0l.jpg

Step 6-

Install away and tighten everything up.

http://i.imgur.com/jTktFMRl.jpg

Step 7-

Grab a beverage and relax knowing you will not have crazy bumpsteer racing around the track.

[metalmaker12]

Nice bracket. Lol.

Those cooling tu es really do look nice. I may have to break down and buy a set.

I bought em, my cart is going into transformation this off season. Going back to clean it up when bodies off and rebuild motor.

[Rasmus]

As for the other guys with 818R's- I doubt if you want to install the aluminum cockpit stuff on the drivers side door area (and leg area). It will get in the way since we cant open doors (and its sharp!). Plus, FFR is shorting us panels on the inside anyway. Its nothing like the 818S because of our roll bars. If I do install it, it will be on the other side of the door bar- As long if it does not interfere with the body installation.
Chad. Still of this opinion? I'm looking at the same thing and wondering why I even need to install the side panels.

[C.Plavan]

Rasmus- I'm going to be adding a think aluminum side intrusion plate on the outside of the roll bar. I may put some of the aluminum panels on if I do that. I do want to keep the heat away from me too from the coolant lines.

I'm also going to do that on the passenger side to protect the fuel cell from anything that may want to puncture it going through the fiberglass doors. I have to box the fuel cell up anyway,

[Wayne Presley]

Chad,
have you thought about doing side intrusion plates then putting in energy absorbing foam between the door skins and the plates? In a side impact every little bit helps.

[C.Plavan]

Chad,
have you thought about doing side intrusion plates then putting in energy absorbing foam between the door skins and the plates? In a side impact every little bit helps.

Yes- on the side intrusion plates. I didn't think about the foam- What kind of foam would you use? The SFI stuff is $$$$$

Are you building Bstuke's 818R? If so how is it coming along?

[Wayne Presley]

But I don't believe the SFI stuff will poison you if it burns...
Almost done with Bob's go kart. Just have to get it on the dyno.

[C.Plavan]

Very true.... haha

[Rasmus]

Links to the SFI stuff for side impacts? What's it called?

[Wayne Presley]

https://www.rollbarpadding.com/product/id-41
http://www.safedrives.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BSCIEnergyFoam

[C.Plavan]

Links to the SFI stuff for side impacts? What's it called?

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=2396

They also have 3/8" and 1/2"

[longislandwrx]

For some foam, that is pretty pricey. Just fill the doors with packing peanuts... If you ever get hit it will look like the 4th of July. #kidding

[C.Plavan]

To keep the fireworks to a minimum.... Haha.

I ordered the Fuel Safe cell. I did get the 17 gallon cell. The dimensions will fit nicely in the passenger area. I went the with Walbro in tank pump, and collector (a must), and the aluminum can upgrade. I also had them cut the foam so I can add a fuel level sender at a later date.

I also was playing around with the 3D printer. I made another emblem for someone on another thread in the Body forum. However, I am leaning towards this one now for my car. Porsche font 818R. Just a rough print for sizing. I kinda like it.

http://i.imgur.com/7SLRb2I.jpg

[Rasmus]

I saw that thread, with the STi-ish logo. I'm loving the simplicity of yours though. The font's just to my liking. Does the font have a name or is it just "Porsche"?

[C.Plavan]

I saw that thread, with the STi-ish logo. I'm loving the simplicity of yours though. The font's just to my liking. Does the font have a name or is it just "Porsche"?

Thanks. Yes- just google Porsche font. Some don't look quite right though.

[Rasmus]

The FFR bracket needs to be designed better, period.

I will also brace it with an additional, removable bracket tying into the main pedal structure. It will make it sturdier for my lead foot.

The next step is to design a adjustable throttle stop. I may go with a simple long bolt, with a double nut for adjustment attached to firewall.

http://i.imgur.com/Q0ltQm3l.jpg (http://imgur.com/Q0ltQm3)
Chad. Do you have a picture of the bracket you made to stop the pedal plate from flexing? What'd you do for a pedal stop?

How thick's your spacer? I was thinking 1" - 1.125" would just about do it.

[C.Plavan]

Look a few posts down from that picture and I have the spacer length.... I think 20mm IIRC. Look for the bird$hit quick welds also a few posts down for the bracket :)

I have not made a throttle stop yet. That's going to be soon since I'm about ready to start this ***** up in a few weeks. I'll probably 3D print something then bolt it to the firewall.

[Rasmus]

http://i.imgur.com/G5VxHVpl.jpg[/URL]
Found it. Thanks.

[Frank818]

Those lateral links just kick ***, sick as hell.

Tnx for the throttle pedal ideas and issues, I'll keep that in mind and also will fab my pedal stop as I don't have the OEM one.

[C.Plavan]

So I started on the part I really dreaded. The windshield surround/cowl. You 818S guys have it easy. There are no 3 dimensional roll cage bars going everywhere. We get the same part as you 818S guys, then we need to hack it up so it hopefully fits (And looks presentable in the process.) No template is included, so I suggest playing Tetris for an hour before you begin cutting and measuring.

I have to admit, it was not as bad as I thought. I just took my time. I made good measurements, cut smaller/shorter than needed and checked fit.... then repeat. Always make sure to have it centered, and only make one cut at a time. I used the Harbor Freight electric body saw with great results (I may be biased).

I also have the brake/clutch fluid reservoir relocation kit. This will really clean up the look on 818R's and also limit the cuts needed.

I may have to move it back a tad, but I will wait until I start messing with the bodywork more. If I have to move it back an inch, the additional cutting will be minimal. This would only be required to get more "meat" for the rear hood pin install.

But here it is- I even added the dash, and R shorty windshield. You cant get the proper curve with just the two clamps I was using on the windshield- but by hand it looks great.

http://i.imgur.com/19MOUBpl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/PGBtpZ3l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/GDhpg0Kl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/WeYpa04l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/fsyNrHNl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/eAT2i6Fl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/hXRH7Mrl.jpg

[C.Plavan]

With hood mock up-
http://i.imgur.com/PYMCbnol.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/DqwGdd7l.jpg

[C.Plavan]

Am I supposed to flip this aluminum panel "Dash Close off" #80546 so it is angled "up" instead the way it is now? It does not look right to me, but I have not tried it the other way yet.
http://i.imgur.com/wgUQi5Hl.jpg

[Wayne Presley]

Angles up into the crease of the suround

[C.Plavan]

Angles up into the crease of the suround

Thanks Wayne. That makes more sense. Garage is too hot to mess with it right now.

[Wayne Presley]

Put bulb seal on it

[C.Plavan]

I have to admit- I have not looked at the manual in a long time since it not that great for the R. I just popped it open... and there it was- a segment on the question I asked about dash piece... lol Thanks again Wayne

[C.Plavan]

Guess what showed up today when I came home for lunch? I'm getting excited now.
http://i.imgur.com/PjBcFW6.jpg

[Scargo]

Congratulations! It's looking like a race car.
What is the size and dimensions of the cell? I can't find what you decided on.

[C.Plavan]

Info-
Complete Pro Cell, PC117

Complete 17 gallon Pro Cell with steel can, bladder, safety foam baffling, SF6X10E fill plate and fuel pick up assembly. Outside can dimensions 20.125" x 17.125" x 12.75"

I have upgraded to an aluminum can, race collector, internal fuel pump, pre cut sender area foam (so I can add a sender later easily) fuel pump harness.

[C.Plavan]

Just got the email I have been waiting for. One of the first Gen 2 vacuumed formed Carbon Fiber 818R race splitters coming my way. I'll post pictures when I get it.

[Frank818]

What does it do better?

[C.Plavan]

What does it do better?

Lets just say FFR had someone else make it this time....

[metros]

Just got the email I have been waiting for. One of the first Gen 2 vacuumed formed Carbon Fiber 818R race splitters coming my way. I'll post pictures when I get it.

Excellent, looking forward to the improved pieces. I'm using the R carbon aero parts on my S.

[C.Plavan]

The rear bumper is done. I just need to take all my mesh/frame bits to get powder coated.

http://i.imgur.com/k0DWa91l.jpg


Now on to the front bumper/headlights

[C.Plavan]

Moving on to the exhaust. I bought an Invidia Divorced/ catless down pipe ($275ish). It's all an 818R needs. The pipe in stock form hits the 1" square tubing on the passenger side. Its an easy fix for a Muffler shop. I would have them cut it, reweld to my designated exit location once I get the body on. I plan on the exhaust going out the passenger side.

http://i.imgur.com/zh0G4ffl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/87c9teal.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/kFfXcx3l.jpg

[C.Plavan]

The new Gen2 818R front carbon fiber race splitter was just was delivered. It looks really good. Just like the APR wing.

I'm making a template of it now. I want to get a Tegris one made if this one ever breaks- 3.5 inch ride height, and race curbs take their toll after awhile.

http://i.imgur.com/J8SlEs6l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/2vS85q4l.jpg

Backside-
http://i.imgur.com/qcJRkH6l.jpg

[Canadian818]

Very jealous of that splitter! Did it cost more than the Gen 1?

[D Clary]

Hey Chad I noticed that neither you or Brandon have cut out the rear of your cars as much as the FFR car. Any reason or just cosmetics.

[C.Plavan]

Very jealous of that splitter! Did it cost more than the Gen 1?

Mine was on back order- but I requested to get the Gen 2 version after seeing the rear "Carbon Fiber" diffuser. So no it did not cost me anything extra. In fact, I think this was the last piece missing from my kit.

[C.Plavan]

Hey Chad I noticed that neither you or Brandon have cut out the rear of your cars as much as the FFR car. Any reason or just cosmetics.

I can't speak for Brandon, but I'm worried about the structural integrity of the fiberglass by making all those cuts. It would really weaken it. I may make them later, but one tap in the back and the bumper would be toast.

[Frank818]

Do you need to wet sand the splitter still?

[C.Plavan]

Do you need to wet sand the splitter still?

Nope- the front side looks like the APR wing and properly finished.

Now the rear diffuser I have from them........ It's just fiberglass that they sell as carbon fiber.

[Frank818]

Darn, I want a Gen2 for free. :)

[GUNS]

Yea no kidding...I think all of us that purchased what was advertised as "carbon fiber" pieces should have the option to swap it out.

Looks great man, keep it up!

[metros]

That's a significant improvement over the gen I pieces. Looking much better.

[C.Plavan]

Since I have this whole week off, I'm hoping to get alot done on the car. The completed harness from Brian from IWire should be here tomorrow. I'm looking forward to it.

I designed a new radiator/coolant tank overflow bracket for the front- Its printing right now. This will allow me to mount the stock WRX overflow tank behind the radiator similar to the stock set up, but one peice with my radiator brackets I printed earlier. I'll post a picture when done.

It will be printed in black ABS (Red is easier to see when building in the software)

http://i.imgur.com/QxZun1vl.jpg

I'm picking up the mesh/frames/diffusers from the powdercoater today also.

Front UCA's:

I cut 1/4" off each of the rear stubs. I was able to get -2.9 degree camber without cutting the long front one. You will only be able to use one Locknut on one side. Once I get the final alignment done, I will be using blue loctite for added piece of mind. I plan on cutting the longer front stub today by a half inch to get me over the -3 mark.

[Frank818]

It must be fun to design your own part and see it printing at home. No need to pay big bucks. Is the 3D printer a great investment yet?

How much camber you were able to get without cutting that quarter of an inch?

[C.Plavan]

The 3D printer is awesome. Pricey, yes. Not sure I would buy it just for the 818R- but I use it for other things too. I bought the printer that prints in ABS plastic instead of the PLA plastic. ABS is much more durable than PLA. Its better for what I am doing.

One thing to keep in mind is that 3D printing is alot of trial and error- its not as easy as making an item, then printing it. There are alot of variables like nozzle temp, build plate temp etc. This part will take 5 hours to print because I'm doing 100% infill (Solid). Prototypes I do 10% fill (hollow/ honeycombed inside) to save time and plastic.
30% of the time there are printing failures- Print comes of build plate in middle of print, then you have a plastic glob. etc- So it takes time to get things right. It's not like sending a document to your inkjet for a print.

The camber was minimal (R ride height) without cutting, I think it was only -.5 to -1 fully cranked down.

[Frank818]

Yeah I read a bit on those printers. Lots of configuration and trial and error. I didn't know about the failures. I guess it's too pricey for one car, for me.

BTW, sending to your inkjet can also be a pain and yield to failures. lolllll

What camber FFR recommends for the R?
For the S, it's -0.5 to -0.75, so I guess me I'll be ok and won't need to cut the UCAs.

[C.Plavan]

Radiator/Overflow tank bracket finished printing- Turned out pretty good.
http://i.imgur.com/t4IKiNLl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/XVqD1KAl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/6d8MOqVl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/FgiYINhl.jpg (http://imgur.com/FgiYINh)

[longislandwrx]

I can dig it.

[Frank818]

Pretty nice! Part of the 70% success, I guess. :)

Your rad fans and shroud look cool, I see mishimoto on them, any model, specs or something? If you already mentioned all that, could you remind me when in time or post #/page you think that could be?

[C.Plavan]

Pretty nice! Part of the 70% success, I guess. :)

Your rad fans and shroud look cool, I see mishimoto on them, any model, specs or something? If you already mentioned all that, could you remind me when in time or post #/page you think that could be?

Thanks- That is an untouched finish. You can always sand or paint- But I think they look good as is. I'm printing out a bottom support now for the coolant tank-

Yes, Mishimoto radiator and fan kit. All aluminum for a WRX

[Frank818]

Found it on amazon $220, not bad. I have the older style rad with the inlet on the top right corner so not sure this model fits. I'll check on mishimoto's site. Good lead.

[C.Plavan]

I have been a designing fool today. Maybe because it is 106 degrees today and the garage is hot!

Lower is bracket done. The more I use this thing, the more I love it. I should sell some of this stuff :)

Dyson loves barking at the 3D printer....
http://i.imgur.com/z4jhxIwl.jpg

Lower tank knob "pops" into the bracket hole snuggly.
http://i.imgur.com/3R9jJtil.jpg (http://imgur.com/3R9jJti)

All mounted up-
http://i.imgur.com/Sg8Xef7l.jpg


I also bent the rear firewall another 10+ degrees so it clears my seat. My powder coater had an old school break that would fit the whole firewall. I need to rivnut and mount that when its cooler.

[RM1SepEx]

I have an air conditioner in my insulated garage... it's noisy but so am I!

[Frank818]

I should sell some of this stuff :)

Well, yeah! Why not? I bet if you can build a full wiper system that doesn't need a cut in the hood you'll pay off your 818 in a few weeks. :) Ok ok, 3D printers are not "that" good yet. :) But bracket-wise, it's awesome and if I decide to use the same parts as you, at the same location, darn I'd love to get your brackets.

[C.Plavan]

I have an air conditioner in my insulated garage... it's noisy but so am I!

You are lucky! I talked with the "Boss" of the household. Once we finish the first phase of our backyard, I getting an A/C unit for the garage. I'm out there too much to be uncomfortable.

Pics of the re-bent firewall before rivnut central. I need to take the seat out and start drilling.
http://i.imgur.com/atVKEVxl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/v5EnD2Yl.jpg

[mjazzka]

The 3D printer is awesome. Pricey, yes. Not sure I would buy it just for the 818R- but I use it for other things too. I bought the printer that prints in ABS plastic instead of the PLA plastic. ABS is much more durable than PLA. Its better for what I am doing.

One thing to keep in mind is that 3D printing is alot of trial and error- its not as easy as making an item, then printing it. There are alot of variables like nozzle temp, build plate temp etc. This part will take 5 hours to print because I'm doing 100% infill (Solid). Prototypes I do 10% fill (hollow/ honeycombed inside) to save time and plastic.
30% of the time there are printing failures- Print comes of build plate in middle of print, then you have a plastic glob. etc- So it takes time to get things right. It's not like sending a document to your inkjet for a print.

The camber was minimal (R ride height) without cutting, I think it was only -.5 to -1 fully cranked down.

I REALLY like the 3D printed parts, the quality of your parts is extremely good. What kind of printer do you have? I just got my own printer, and am looking forward to using it exactly like you are. Mine is a QU-BD Two-Up, about as cheap as it gets ($300). It also is pretty limited in capabilities, but the price can't be beat. You might answer this question when you tell me the kind of printer you have, but you really can't print in PLA? It has a lower extrusion temperature, and is usually regarded as easier to work with.

After just getting mine and all of my friends telling me "print me a _____!!!", I can't tell you how many times I have had to explain how hard printers are to get perfected, and that they aren't just press and play. -_-

[C.Plavan]

I REALLY like the 3D printed parts, the quality of your parts is extremely good. What kind of printer do you have? I just got my own printer, and am looking forward to using it exactly like you are. Mine is a QU-BD Two-Up, about as cheap as it gets ($300). It also is pretty limited in capabilities, but the price can't be beat. You might answer this question when you tell me the kind of printer you have, but you really can't print in PLA? It has a lower extrusion temperature, and is usually regarded as easier to work with.

After just getting mine and all of my friends telling me "print me a _____!!!", I can't tell you how many times I have had to explain how hard printers are to get perfected, and that they aren't just press and play. -_-

Haha- Yeah- I have my friends wanting me to print them stuff for their car's..... It's not that easy AND they want me to design the part..... That takes the most time. Half the things I make around the house, my wife either loves (Razor holders in the shower), or hates (Frother holder that attaches to the Keurig)... The kid loves I can print him stuff for his Legos (one off parts).

I have the Makerbot Replicator 2X- It's the ABS model. From what I have been told and read, ABS is a little more finicky to work with, but melting point is much higher on ABS than PLA (this is good for race cars depending on what you are making). Its also stronger. I think that is important for what I am making. The build plate is kept at 120-130 degree Celsius, then the nozzles are at 230-240 degree Celsius (~464 degrees F).

A good source on the pro's/ cons of PLA and ABS:
http://www.absplastic.eu/pla-vs-abs-plastic-pros-cons/

The other cool thing is anything I make can be made out of aluminum. I can use the same design file and send it to a CNC shop. So I can prototype in ABS make sure it fits, then can send to a CNC shop (eMachineshop.com). Its pricey, so it pays to be making alot of parts to sell. I have a local guy now.

Either way, PLA or ABS you are going to love it.

[mjazzka]

I'm pretty familiar with the differences and pros and cons of using either, and I definitely see why you use ABS for the car! I just haven't dealt with any printers that can only do ABS, because usually they can do PLA if they can do ABS. I think the Makerbot build plate is what keeps you from using the PLA due to the high temperature, but I have seen some work-arounds you might try if you ever felt the need. But hey, if you don't have any problems with it, then there you go! Might as well just leave it be.

As for 3D modeling, that's the easy part for me, being a senior Mech. E major :D I have Solidworks, and it almost spits out the models faster than I can think of them. Fiddling with my $300 printer is what consumes my time... I hear you about expensive CNC shops too, that's why it's on the list of things to get eventually :cool: Have you ever looked into using a Techshop, or something similar? They let you do the machining yourself, if your interested in learning how. Of course, your time might be much better spent just ordering the parts.

[Scargo]

...The other cool thing is anything I make can be made out of aluminum. I can use the same design file and send it to a CNC shop. So I can prototype in ABS make sure it fits, then can send to a CNC shop (eMachineshop.com). Its pricey, so it pays to be making alot of parts to sell. I have a local guy now...
I was in prototyping, but out of it now for 12 years. Chuckle. Actually doing some pro bono consulting today for a friend with products he wants to develop.
Have you looked into investment casting VS machining? ABS RP, with its limitations, always makes me think of metal castings. Any local foundries? I know people are doing it and some use PLA patterns. Don't know what materials can be swapped out to run in the personal/home grade printers.
My specialty was urethane casting in RTV silicone rubber molds. Glass-filled, high impact with molded-in inserts. Not great around high heat. Would be good for some things.
How about getting SLS parts (http://www.solidconcepts.com/materials/sls-materials/)made once your design is proven? I haven't a clue where prices are now for prototypes.
PS: don't forget radii, fillets and customizing. Those are almost free in RP and can make the parts so sexy and unique.

[Mechie3]

.. It's not that easy AND they want me to design the part..... That takes the most time.

I've had people say "hey, I need this part to interface with these two other parts (neither of which I have). If i send you a picture I found on the internet can you make me one? lol. Don't think I can take a cell phone pic of an item taken at an angle and make a part that is +/- .005" ;) People who have never used cnc's/printers/etc under estimate the work required to spit out parts.

[C.Plavan]

I was in prototyping, but out of it now for 12 years. Chuckle. Actually doing some pro bono consulting today for a friend with products he wants to develop.
Have you looked into investment casting VS machining? ABS RP, with its limitations, always makes me think of metal castings. Any local foundries? I know people are doing it and some use PLA patterns. Don't know what materials can be swapped out to run in the personal/home grade printers.
My specialty was urethane casting in RTV silicone rubber molds. Glass-filled, high impact with molded-in inserts. Not great around high heat. Would be good for some things.
How about getting SLS parts (http://www.solidconcepts.com/materials/sls-materials/)made once your design is proven? I haven't a clue where prices are now for prototypes.
PS: don't forget radii, fillets and customizing. Those are almost free in RP and can make the parts so sexy and unique.

I'm a total Newb with this stuff. I just started it once I received the 3D printer for Xmas from my Wife. So I have no clue what you are talking about...lol I'm just enhancing my 818R build using some pretty cool tools.





I've had people say "hey, I need this part to interface with these two other parts (neither of which I have). If i send you a picture I found on the internet can you make me one? lol. Don't think I can take a cell phone pic of an item taken at an angle and make a part that is +/- .005" ;) People who have never used cnc's/printers/etc under estimate the work required to spit out parts.

I know how you feel..... I had someone ask me to print a gun part......

[longislandwrx]

I know how you feel..... I had someone ask me to print a gun part......

Wait.. I though there are no guns in California... or was it Arnold?

[flynntuna]

Ya, but can it make a cup of Earl Grey?

:rolleyes:

[C.Plavan]

Wait.. I though there are no guns in California... or was it Arnold?

Oh there are guns.... We need them to fight off the Kalifornia Kommies.... :P

Garage is a cool 104 degrees.... and my IWire harness just showed up. I WANT to work on it, but its too damn hot.

[Frank818]

Oh there are guns.... We need them to fight off the Kalifornia Kommies.... :P

Hum, that's not what you wrote at first. lollll Good old edit feature, hey. :)

[C.Plavan]

Hum, that's not what you wrote at first. lollll Good old edit feature, hey. :)

Yep- Edit..... :)

I ventured into the garage and finished the upper rear firewall with rivnuts. I'm digging those aluminum washers that Sixstar told me about.

I tried to cover the "factory drilled" holes with no avail.... one was going to show no matter what, or the spacing would not be equal... I wish those guys in shipping would take some time and measure. That way we do not have to deal with their unsightly holes- at least be uniform.

http://i.imgur.com/DQfM6wRl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/FZYxEfel.jpg

[bompus]

Where did you get those washers?

[C.Plavan]

Those are from Allstar Performance aluminum countersunk washers (Summit/ Jegs). I got the 1/4" ones.

[longislandwrx]

Chad, how about printing a wiper motor to transmission bushing. Mine cracked on my WRX and apparently they don't sell them separate from the wiper transmission. You'd make a small (literal) fortune
I'd send you one to scan and print but mine has disintegrated.

[C.Plavan]

Chad, how about printing a wiper motor to transmission bushing. Mine cracked on my WRX and apparently they don't sell them separate from the wiper transmission. You'd make a small (literal) fortune
I'd send you one to scan and print but mine has disintegrated.

If you can figure out the specs, I can print you one.

Why do you need a wiper for the R??? :P

FYI- I made my own version of the steering column spacer. I should have that done in the next day.

[mjazzka]

Those are from Allstar Performance aluminum countersunk washers (Summit/ Jegs). I got the 1/4" ones.

They're aluminum so they must be pretty light. Are you planning on using them in the rest of the car, or just for parts that are going to be visible? I imagine they are pretty good for load distribution. And at $8 for 10, that's not bad at all.

[C.Plavan]

They're aluminum so they must be pretty light. Are you planning on using them in the rest of the car, or just for parts that are going to be visible? I imagine they are pretty good for load distribution. And at $8 for 10, that's not bad at all.

They are really nice. I plan on using them where feasible (Side body mounting, Under tray below seats, Rear Diffuser mounting/ Front Splitter.

[FFRSpec72]

Mr. Plavan, have you looked at chassis lift points yet for the track, like adding frame tube front and rear on each side to allow one to slip in a jack bar, as the car is going to be low and was looking not to have to repeat the issues I away have with my challenge car and lifting that for up minor work at the track? I was thinking something like this or any other ideas folks may have

30824

[metalmaker12]

The 818 is there lowest car so this will be a good idea

[C.Plavan]

Mr. Plavan, have you looked at chassis lift points yet for the track, like adding frame tube front and rear on each side to allow one to slip in a jack bar, as the car is going to be low and was looking not to have to repeat the issues I away have with my challenge car and lifting that for up minor work at the track? I was thinking something like this or any other ideas folks may have

30824

Yep- Thought about that. I was originally going with Airjacks (For endurance racing), but the new turbo, intercooler, injectors I need threw that out the window. I was going to wait till I get the body on. What you have pictured is a similar setup to a stock 911.

[wallace18]

I had to buy a special low profile jack to get under mine when done. If I had a flat I am not sure even that would work. I like the frame tube idea.

[Scargo]

Yep- Thought about that. I was originally going with Airjacks Why not go with air jacks? By the time you do all the work to modify the frame and use jacking inserts you could be halfway to air jacks. Plus, the weight of the 818 is not so high that you could not afford air jacks. Seems to me the tune of the engine could easily handle the weight.

[FFRSpec72]

Why not go with air jacks? By the time you do all the work to modify the frame and use jacking inserts you could be halfway to air jacks. Plus, the weight of the 818 is not so high that you could not afford air jacks. Seems to me the tune of the engine could easily handle the weight.

Frame mod will be under $40 depending on where I put them, the main issue will be body. I'm looking to go cheap, while air jacks are nice, just something else that I have to service like the lines, couplings, seals, etc. and also having high pressure nitrogen tank at track

[C.Plavan]

Well the airjack money will surely be gone for now. After a few of the 818 track car motor problems- I'm thinking about ditching my whole Killer B setup and going Drysump. I would hate to mess up my new built motor on the first time out. I have the drysump system on my vintage race car (stock) and never had any problems oiling wise. I'm still researching.

Anyone know if you go to an Drysump setup if you still need a AOS?

More printing fun- My version of a Steering Column spacer-

http://i.imgur.com/vCbEbC2l.jpg?1

I did 80% fill (100% would be solid block) Stupid strong- as reference the Blue protoype is 20 or 15% fill (honeycomb) I stopped mid print- I think 20% would of been plenty strong for this application.

http://i.imgur.com/y6VAnY6l.jpg

[Brando]

http://i.imgur.com/y6VAnY6l.jpg

You're really getting me interested in a 3D printer. I have always wanted one but never could justify the reason. Your improving on your design skills, nice looking piece.

I tried using a low profile jack but at R height i still can't get under the car, especially if I take a path crossing over the valence. I have been driving the car up onto 2 X 4's so i can get the jack underneath it. I like the idea of a lift point, but the side panels come out so far from the side tubing i don't see how you would accomplish it. Lead the way

[C.Plavan]

You're really getting me interested in a 3D printer. I have always wanted one but never could justify the reason. Your improving on your design skills, nice looking piece.

I tried using a low profile jack but at R height i still can't get under the car, especially if I take a path crossing over the valence. I have been driving the car up onto 2 X 4's so i can get the jack underneath it. I like the idea of a lift point, but the side panels come out so far from the side tubing i don't see how you would accomplish it. Lead the way

Brandon- Thanks- They are alot of fun. The software is limiting my imagination. I need to look at other programs.

The only problem is, you start thinking about other things you can make, then never spend time working on the actual car.

I did cut the front UCA's like you- I got -4.5 degrees on one side....lol. I adjusted back to -3, but it's nice to know the adjustment is there if needed.

[Frank818]

Can't wait for 3D printers to print through an alu block!

[Brando]

I got -4.5 degrees on one side

Jeez, nice.

Was checking them out and DrySumps are $3,500? You have to be kidding me....that's how much stroking the motor would be. I thought the killerB baffle helped with sloshing oil so i'm wondering why that alone isn't adequate? The only negative I heard about them is that they starve the motor on start-up but wouldn't an Accusump take care of that? I have a killerB pickup and baffle on my motor now. The more i read the more I'm realizing the stock bearings are garbage. I'm leaning towards a new bottom end with quality parts and an accusump and calling it a day. DrySump is getting to cray cray for me

[Mechie3]

The only problem is, you start thinking about other things you can make, then never spend time working on the actual car.


No. That never happens. Ever. :o


baffle

The baffle is meant more to control oil returning from the heads and prevent it from sloshing onto the crank during jerky movements (ie: hard shift). It doesn't do as much to prevent oil from pooling in the head during an extended high G turn.

[FFRSpec72]

I'm not seeing a lot of issues with stock (slightly modified) Subaru engines for road racing as I'm out with these guys and they continue to run w/o too many issues, I can see more issues with auto-x and rally.

[Boog]

The baffle is meant more to control oil returning from the heads and prevent it from sloshing onto the crank during jerky movements (ie: hard shift). It doesn't do as much to prevent oil from pooling in the head during an extended high G turn.

So is the problem with high G, sweeping turns due to oil starvation because it doesn't get enough oil back into the pan to be pumped? Or that excess oil in the heads causes some sort of mechanical interference? Or both?

[C.Plavan]

So is the problem with high G, sweeping turns due to oil starvation because it doesn't get enough oil back into the pan to be pumped? Or that excess oil in the heads causes some sort of mechanical interference? Or both?

From what I have been reading- Both.

We all know the 818R will be much more performance elevated than guys with WRX's- We have bigger, sticker tires, aerodynamics etc- How many 818's have been on the track? How many of those had some type of problem? Alot of unknowns. I wonder if the FFR Blue R had any issues, and what they have on it?

[Scargo]

... After a few of the 818 track car motor problems- I'm thinking about ditching my whole Killer B setup and going Drysump. I would hate to mess up my new built motor on the first time out. I have the drysump system on my vintage race car (stock) and never had any problems oiling wise. I'm still researching.

Anyone know if you go to an Drysump setup if you still need a AOS?
Technically, no. You do have to vent the sump. Some make that vent a separator which vents and drains back to the sump. Chris, of KillerB says you should have four scavenging pumps: two for the pan and one for each head.
KillerB is now offering a set of valves to stop surge out of the heads. (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2628337) This would be a sensible alternative to dry sump for the racer on a budget... I think these new valves and a Accusump should be all you need.
Dry sump is still the ultimate for reducing parasitic losses and can help improve power if enough vacuum is used.

[C.Plavan]

Technically, no. You do have to vent the sump. Some make that vent a separator which vents and drains back to the sump. Chris, of KillerB says you should have four scavenging pumps: two for the pan and one for each head.
KillerB is now offering a set of valves to stop surge out of the heads. (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2628337) This would be a sensible alternative to dry sump for the racer on a budget... I think these new valves and a Accusump should be all you need.
Dry sump is still the ultimate for reducing parasitic losses and can help improve power if enough vacuum is used.

I know about his valves, but I have asked a few times on different threads about a release date with no answer. Which I find really funny because he like to chime in on anything....

[longislandwrx]

http://www.drysump.com/Subaru.htm

not cheap, but most of the hard work is done... pretty much just a bolt on.

The cosworth kit is nice, but ...
Required to complete the installation:
-Oil Tank
-Hoses/Hose Ends
-2004-2007 Subaru STI Alternator bracket
-Cosworth High Volume/Pressure Oil Pump 20001185

[C.Plavan]

I finished the "Pushed Back" complete firewall today. I have plenty of room for the seat now.

http://i.imgur.com/4Qp9Jlkl.jpg

I also did some final touch ups to the UCA's trimming. For future reference cut ~1/4" off of each of the rear studs, and ~1/2" off the front welded stub only. Like Brandon, you will lose one of the locking nuts on the rear portion to get the correct camber. (Note: picture is at "full" adjustment- This is not how I will run it. I will do a complete alignment later.)

http://i.imgur.com/9Uyb0nhl.jpg

I also removed the steering column- Hammered down the end to shorten the length (super easy). Then reinstalled it with my 3D printed steering spacer. I fits perfect. Now the steering wheel will feel good (It was a little close for my taste). It basically nullifies the quick release hub length and lowers the column. If I want the steering wheel to be even lower, I can just print up a thicker steering spacer.

http://i.imgur.com/SajOUYfl.jpg (http://imgur.com/SajOUYf)

http://i.imgur.com/lkZGkz5l.jpg

I hope to finish mounting the fuel cell later today or tomorrow. I only have to make a few cuts on the hold down bracket, paint, then install it. At some point later, I will have to box the fuel cell up (firewall it) to meet racing rules.

[C.Plavan]

I finished mounting the Fuel Cell today. Next is my awesome IWire harness!

http://i.imgur.com/Z5WJTNCl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/RJBhn7Tl.jpg

[Frank818]

Beautiful installation.

[longislandwrx]

You are certainly going to be working on your tan in there.

[C.Plavan]

You are certainly going to be working on your tan in there.

That is what the fire suit is for. :P

[C.Plavan]

Gulp....- Just ordered the Element Tuning Dry Sump kit...... They use it on their race car and other builds- No issues. They actually piece it together with some ARE components.

I will have a complete Killer B setup for sale soon. (Tank, windage tray & pickup). I need to figure out a price.

[mikeb75]

Very nice choice on the dry sump... even if your wallet doesn't think so. Looking forward to seeing your install of that kit.

[Mitch Wright]

For NASA&SCCA won't you be required to build a fire wall between you and the cell? I haven't looked at the rule books in a while but a firewall has been required for as long as I can remember. I am planning on using the same cell, it looks like a fire wall will be easy to fabricate.
Your car is looking great.

[C.Plavan]

For NASA&SCCA won't you be required to build a fire wall between you and the cell? I haven't looked at the rule books in a while but a firewall has been required for as long as I can remember. I am planning on using the same cell, it looks like a fire wall will be easy to fabricate.
Your car is looking great.

Yes I will. A few posts above the picture I said I would need to. It's should be fairly easy. One of my racing buddies is going to help. That will be one of the last things I do. I need to see where I can fit the dry sump oil tank and -12 lines.

[Mitch Wright]

Look forward to seeing the finished product.

[C.Plavan]

The first step before installing the IWire harness.....Odyssey PC680 battery mounted. Stay tuned.

http://i.imgur.com/JYeaNCVl.png

[C.Plavan]

I received some more cool toys. I have also been messing with this digital display (8" Andriod Tablet)- The signals are sent wireless (bluetooth) from my data logger (Race Capture Pro). It will fit perfectly in the dashboard area. I'm going analog (VDO gauges) first, then will incorporate this display once I get things dialed in. I hope it works as good as it looks.

http://i.imgur.com/5S70ECBl.png

[Mechie3]

Slick. That looks pretty cool.

[Frank818]

How fast is the update frequency and how's the lag vs what's happening for real?
The only reason so far I don't plan on going for such thing is the lag. The info displayed on screen is not real-time.

[C.Plavan]

How fast is the update frequency and how's the lag vs what's happening for real?
The only reason so far I don't plan on going for such thing is the lag. The info displayed on screen is not real-time.

This is part of a Data logger. This just not some cheap slow app you buy. Do a search on Race capture Pro. It is real time. You can even get real time from the car to anyone with a computer.

[icky]

thanks

[Frank818]

I read about it on Race Capture's site (simple but not enough info for me), but couldn't find examples of how you can customize the dash. It seems to support 8 analogue inputs and even 3 outputs, this is interesting as I need 2-3 outputs and was planning on buying controllers. Your Race Capture kit does it and all the stuff + 3 outputs for only $450!

But do you know a site or video that explains what can be customized for the dash? Like if you can locate your inputs anywhere on the dash, use any font, color, diagram, gauge style, dimension, etc. That's what I'm looking for. It looks like a very interesting option instead of using my VW cluster.

[longislandwrx]

supports a transponder?

[C.Plavan]

supports a transponder?

It has GPS in it with the track start/finish Long/Lat. If it is like my Traqmate on my other car- It is very accurate.

[Zach34]

Interested to see how the tablet looks in the dash. Are you planning to replace the analog gauges with it eventually, or just temp-install the tablet for race days?

[C.Plavan]

Interested to see how the tablet looks in the dash. Are you planning to replace the analog gauges with it eventually, or just temp-install the tablet for race days?

If it works well, I will just use the tablet. I'm going to have the Data logger running all the time anyway.

I never knew wiring could be so much fun!!! (especially when you dont have to do the dieting!). Just route, clamp, plug in.

http://i.imgur.com/G9onqs7l.png

I found a nice little spot behind the dash to mount the key/column/immobilizer. I'm going to ziptie the key in just in case. I will never need to see it, or turn it to start- I'll just use the start button.
http://i.imgur.com/orWAAfbl.jpg

Front is all wired up, Now onto the back- I just need to pop off the center console and route the wires.
http://i.imgur.com/ntQtqWXl.jpg


I think it took me 30min to finish the front......that included drilling. Granted, the headlights are not mounted yet, but the wires are there. I plugged in the radiator fans, dash, throttle, brake etc)

[Frank818]

couldn't find examples of how you can customize the dash.

But do you know a site or video that explains what can be customized for the dash? Like if you can locate your inputs anywhere on the dash, use any font, color, diagram, gauge style, dimension, etc.

Well I checked around and the Race Capture Mobile app (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.autosportlabs.racecapture&hl=fr) doesn't say much as to what can be customized on the dashboard. Autosports Lab isn't much verbose either (https://www.autosportlabs.com/racecapturepro-v2-app-and-firmware-beta-release/).

So when you get down the customization (I assume at some point people get there in order to have they want on screen), could you let us know what you are able to customize?

[C.Plavan]

Well I checked around and the Race Capture Mobile app (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.autosportlabs.racecapture&hl=fr) doesn't say much as to what can be customized on the dashboard. Autosports Lab isn't much verbose either (https://www.autosportlabs.com/racecapturepro-v2-app-and-firmware-beta-release/).

So when you get down the customization (I assume at some point people get there in order to have they want on screen), could you let us know what you are able to customize?

Layout will be the same, but they have a ton of preset gauges you can select from. Everything I would ever need. In the picture, I selected those gauge types. There are probably 10 or so total to choose from.

[Brando]

Gulp....- Just ordered the Element Tuning Dry Sump kit...... They use it on their race car and other builds- No issues. They actually piece it together with some ARE components

I am going to take the same plunge. Trying to figure out mounting location. Are you installing in engine bay behind driver?

[C.Plavan]

I am going to take the same plunge. Trying to figure out mounting location. Are you installing in engine bay behind driver?

Good to hear from you Brandon- I'll know more once it shows up. It just depends on where the tank will fit. I think its around 22" and 6" diameter (around 7+ with mounting brackets) I'm going to try to put the tank in the engine area to limit the lengths of lines, if that does not work- up front. Up front will have a longer line run, but should help the balance also.

[C.Plavan]

Ohhhhh- lookie here......

http://i.imgur.com/mSUAepEl.png
http://i.imgur.com/1CrkztSl.png

I need to run fuel lines, add oil, install IC then break her in at 2000RPM for a bit.

[FFRSpec72]

Ohhhhh- lookie here......

http://i.imgur.com/mSUAepEl.png
http://i.imgur.com/1CrkztSl.png

I need to run fuel lines, add oil, install IC then breaker her in at 2000RPM for a bit.

You forgot the dash !

[FFRSpec72]

I received some more cool toys. I have also been messing with this digital display (8" Andriod Tablet)- The signals are sent wireless (bluetooth) from my data logger (Race Capture Pro). It will fit perfectly in the dashboard area. I'm going analog (VDO gauges) first, then will incorporate this display once I get things dialed in. I hope it works as good as it looks.



Autosport Labs is a local company here in Seattle so we have been doing lots of testing with them here at the local tracks for about 3 years now. The data logger is great, they keep adding new features and well worth the $$$

[Frank818]

Chad, tnx for the details. I installed the app on my phone, unfortunately the settings button doesn't work, probably cuz it's not a tablet.
Not sure one can remove the lap times, split, delta and lap number from the app, as it's race oriented.
And I found out there is no odometer, none is shown on the app's panels. :( I'll stick with my VW dash for now, then.
But for race, I'd go with that hands down!

[Brando]

Looking really good bro. I envy your attention to detail.
If we are doing a dry sump wouldn't this be an ideal opportunity to drop the motor a few inches?
I don't have my car here and I can't recall if the exhaust manifold was already to low to bring it down any.

[RM1SepEx]

Brando, I doubt that you can find a header that will let you drop the motor much though a custom one might be possible to do so

[C.Plavan]

I agree- The "Highest" header I have seen is still a 1/4" or 1/2" below the rail.

[Brando]

At the level you are racing, are they requiring steel braided lines for your drysump oil lines.
Does keeping all the lines strictly in the engine bay have any bearing on that requirement?

[C.Plavan]

I have the braided lines in the Porsche (Fuel, oil). I will be putting them in the 818R also. I think the rules state anything running in the cabin have to be braided. I just use braided lines everywhere. I already have the -8 AN fuel lines. I just need to make them. The dry sump will have -12 lines.

PS-DO NOT buy "slip on or press on" AN fittings- Those are not legal.

Tip- Buy the Koul Tools AN line tool. Helps a ton when building lines. You can buy singles, or mutli packs.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/kts-1016

[sponaugle]

I received some more cool toys. I have also been messing with this digital display (8" Andriod Tablet)- The signals are sent wireless (bluetooth) from my data logger (Race Capture Pro). It will fit perfectly in the dashboard area. I'm going analog (VDO gauges) first, then will incorporate this display once I get things dialed in. I hope it works as good as it looks.
http://i.imgur.com/5S70ECBl.png

Hey Chad,

Nice display. I'm curious if you would have any comments about my gauge plans: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14139-Sponaugle-s-H6-EZ30R-818S&p=161599&posted=1#post161599

I like the RaceCapture device and got one to test out. I'm thinking of build a way to drive other display types from the RaceCapture.

Cheers,

Jeff

[C.Plavan]

I just got my stock headers with Invidia up pipe back. I had them Ceramic Coated. I decided to just stay with the stock headers for the time being. I might have some time to install them tomorrow. They look great!

http://i.imgur.com/CbGrGZjl.png

Since I'm running a Legacy GT 5 speed trans, it does not have the speedo gear in the transmission for the VSS sensor. I do not want to open the trans back up and install the speedo gear and sensor (I should of done it when I installed the Modena TBD- But I didn't know) , so I found a place that makes a VSS simulator that you plug into the VSS harness plug. If you try to run without the VSS, you will be thrown into Limp Mode...booooo. They use these VSS simulators on VW Vanagon/subi conversions. I hope the ECU does not learn that it is getting fooled by a constant "speed signal". If for some reason that fails, I was planning on using a Hall Effect sensor with magnets JB welded to the inner CV. Then mount the sensor to the transmission with some type of support.

I'm just waiting for a stock Boost Control solenoid to show up, then I pretty much can start it up. :)

[JeromeS13]

I'm pretty sure you can disable the codes that it'll kick out and it will not put you into limp mode. At least that's how I'm running with my '06 WRX ECU/wiring and a 2012 WRX transmission (no transmission mounted VSS, as well).

[C.Plavan]

I'm pretty sure you can disable the codes that it'll kick out and it will not put you into limp mode. At least that's how I'm running with my '06 WRX ECU/wiring and a 2012 WRX transmission (no transmission mounted VSS, as well).

Hmm- Thats good to know. I have read that the ECU will finally figure it out and throw it in limp mode. Maybe not if everything is fine for you. I take it you have no speedo then.

[JeromeS13]

Hmm- Thats good to know. I have read that the ECU will finally figure it out and throw it in limp mode. Maybe not if everything is fine for you. I take it you have no speedo then.

I'm using an AiM MXL Pista with a GPS module.

[C.Plavan]

Ok- I think tomorrow is the day! Engine start time!!!
Today I did the following:

1- Filled fuel cell with some gas
2. Filled it with oil
3. Filled it with distilled water that my wife ran to the store for!
4. Installed the headers and up pipe
5. Installed the new TMIC and hoses
6. Made the stainless braided fuel lines and drilled holes through lower firewall to run them through
7. Tested my own connector for the Fuel Safe in tank pump. Works!

I'm just waiting for a Boost Solenoid to show up tomorrow so i can install that. I cant wait


I do have a few questions on the degas tank in the back. Do I fill that with any water? or only fill through the radiator? I'm an air cooled guy!

Any tips before starting her up?

[longislandwrx]

have a mechanically inclined buddy double check your work. hoses tight, bolts tight. etc etc don't tell him " I checked that already" let him give it a real once over.

fill up your transmission with the right amount of gear oil.. Wayne and Jerome both mentioned it. make sure your clutch is bled and working and trans is actually in neutral.

prime the oil system/turbo... pull the IGN fuse, or whatever yours is labeled now and crank a few times, wait a minute and crank some more...unless you are running your dry sump right away... if so it probably came with specific oiling instructions.

check for fuel leaks around rails and injectors.

yes top off the degas tank... when you fire up for the first time it will be quite stormy in there... like "oh no I have a bad head gasket bubbly", but it will calm down. fill your overflows up 25% then adjust after you've ran for a few minutes.

have a fire extinguisher/hose handy and do your first startup outside... just in case.

fire it up.

scare neighbors... er neighbor?

[Brando]

Do I fill that with any water? or only fill through the radiator?

Awesome Chad, hope you can get a video clip of it. Are you pulling the motor the do the dry sump or attempting to do it with the motor in? You didn't already get it in did you?!?
I jack the front up and fill the radiator then cap. After I fill my degas, leave cap off and fire it up. I let my degas settle then bring the motor up to 3k RPM then back to idle. That seemed to force the gas out. Once it almost overflows I take it up to 3k one last time which will stuff more than half the fluid in the degas into the cooling system. I top it off then I put the cap on before letting off throttle.
Another set of helping hands works best.

There might be a better way but this has worked quite well for me and i have drained and refilled the system quite a few times now

Look forward to hearing about your first start

[C.Plavan]

Thanks Jeff and Brandon- I have not put the dry sump on yet. I have not received it. I figured I would break it in with the Killer B stuff now. I'm pretty sure I can install the dry sump with the motor in the car. I'll know more once it arrives, but if the firewall is off, and my race seat is out, it should not be too hard. I'm just not looking forward to buying all the AN fitting$.

I'll try to get a video later today. Just waiting on that one part showing up today.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I'll try to get a video later today. Just waiting on that one part showing up today.

Chad,
Can you start the car in a NA type mode if you disconnect the wastegate arm so it stays open?
Bob

[Mechie3]

you can start it with the wastegate connected. It'll peak out at 5-7psi. In the factory setup that is a bleedoff setup the solenoid holds the wastegate shut by bleeding off air from the line connecting the compressor to the actuator. If there's no solenoid the spring can't hold more than the 5-7. In a three port setup (non bleed off) you can't do that. If a three port fails the wastegate never opens and your motor could pop. I haven't read of any 3 port failures though.

[longislandwrx]

also make sure you or AJW did this too:

http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=Info_SubaruOil

[C.Plavan]

also make sure you or AJW did this too:

http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=Info_SubaruOil

Good call. I'll double check that.


I received the stock Solenoid....... Confused on how to hook it up. I cant find good pictures on the internet. Plus, the two hoses I thought it goes on are pretty small, and one is hard plastic on the end of the hose. I need a little help.
http://i.imgur.com/MkcxqSGl.png

Which hose goes on this T also?
http://i.imgur.com/DAXWj6jl.png

So close... but I have to work.

[longislandwrx]

post 10

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2075804


that T most likely went to a boost gauge.

[metalmaker12]

You need the larger rubber connecting hose to fit onto the solenoid to the whitish plastic connector nipples
31453.

The T is for a boost gauge, which you should install along with many others as you intend I am sure .

Ps the arm intakes are finicky and have a untunable dead spot just had it for fitment cause I had not purchased my Cobb in the pic

[Kurk818]

Ill need to double check mine. Thanks for the link.


post 10

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2075804


that T most likely went to a boost gauge.

[C.Plavan]

You need the larger rubber connecting hose to fit onto the solenoid to the whitish plastic connector nipples
31453.

The T is for a boost gauge, which you should install along with many others as you intend I am sure .

Ps the arm intakes are finicky and have a untunable dead spot just had it for fitment cause I had not purchased my Cobb in the pic

Thanks again guys. My Solenoid looks different. Am I right at assuming that the end nipple on mine routes the same as on the "end" nipple on the pictured solenoid? I don't want to mix them up.

[longislandwrx]

should be the same. looks like yours just has a 90 instead of a straight.


I think the newer cars came with that style.


here this will help.

http://blog.perrinperformance.com/boost-control-systems-explained-part-2/

[C.Plavan]

Well here it is. Its running! Kind of a disappointing video, no fire, no leaks, no explosions....... Now I can start tidying it up! Such a good feeling.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsdSopnHVlQ

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Great job Chad, Is it ready for a drive around the block?

[iWire]

Well here it is. Its running! Kind of a disappointing video, no fire, no leaks, no explosions....... Now I can start tidying it up! Such a good feeling.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsdSopnHVlQ

My favorite type of post! :D

[C.Plavan]

Great job Chad, Is it ready for a drive around the block?

Thanks Bob. I just need to throw the seat and belts in. I want to mount the dash first though. Maybe this weekend.

[longislandwrx]

best sounding startup video yet. congrats man. you should be very proud.

[Frank818]

Congrats Chad, soon driveable, soon you'll have real fun, no disappointments. :)

[metalmaker12]

Thanks again guys. My Solenoid looks different. Am I right at assuming that the end nipple on mine routes the same as on the "end" nipple on the pictured solenoid? I don't want to mix them up.

I am unsure which solenoid you have because as far as I know the wrx and Sti ones look like what I have. Maybe I just never came across the style you have.. Idk

Oem ones all look like this 02-07
31468

[C.Plavan]

I am unsure which solenoid you have because as far as I know the wrx and Sti ones look like what I have. Maybe I just never came across the style you have.. Idk

Oem ones all look like this 02-07
31468

It said 2006 WRX. I'll know if it works when I drive it... haha

[Mechie3]

I am unsure which solenoid you have because as far as I know the wrx and Sti ones look like what I have. Maybe I just never came across the style you have.. Idk

Oem ones all look like this 02-07
31468

My 06 WRX doesn't look ilke that. Both of my barbs point in the same direction.

http://i.imgur.com/3XRd73Y.jpg

[iWire]

06/07 WRX and 07 STi both use that newer style boost controller that Mechie posted.

[Brando]

You must be smiling. Milestone complete. Props

[metalmaker12]

It must be the later half of 06, cause some have my style. Thanks for the clarification!

[thall818]

Awesome! Great job. Can't wait to get there myself.

[C.Plavan]

Because of all the help here I got it running. You guys are great. These Subi motors and turbo's are a whole different ballgame that what I know.

I worked pretty much all day yesterday on it. My goal was to throw the seat and shifter back in and terrorize my "Private Track" :)

I busted out the camber gauge, toe plates, measuring tapes, and levels and gave it an alignment. I will throw it on a rack later to finish caster, but I have it pretty maxed out.
I went with these as a baseline:

Front -3.0 camber/ 1/16th toe out
Rear -2.5 camber/ 3/16th toe in
height 3.5"

I have scales, but there is no need to corner balance yet since the body is not on.

I finished torquing all the suspension parts to their final torque.

I installed the trimmed fiberglass cowl, and the relocated master cylinder reservoir. I ran the feed lines to the MC. That all came out great. I was getting ready to bleed the brakes for the first time, but I noticed one of my union fittings was leaking :(- I'm going to have to make a new line today and try again. Fingers crossed that today I can drive it.

http://i.imgur.com/mOYMcQYl.png

[metalmaker12]

Exciting man, congrats , I will be back to this step soon when I uninstall my motor and put it back in under a new beginning.

[Aero STI]

Chad, you were asking about the total height of my quik latch assembly. This gives you an idea of maximum extension with a reasonable amount of thread engagement.

http://i.imgur.com/ncA8AZgl.jpg

[C.Plavan]

Chad, you were asking about the total height of my quik latch assembly. This gives you an idea of maximum extension with a reasonable amount of thread engagement.

http://i.imgur.com/ncA8AZgl.jpg

Thanks. That helps. I ordered a ton of the black mini latches. I also ordered a few of the "Elongated" mini latch studs (4") long. It's nice knowing they will work just fine when I get to that stage.

[Aero STI]

Yep, I ordered 10 of the black mini latches, 4 of the elongated studs, and 10 of the tensioning springs. With these bolt brackets that I made I don't think the elongated studs will be necessary anywhere. I'm planning to make some front hinges for the hood and only use 8 mini latches total.

I had the gas filler anodized black to somewhat resemble the mini latches. I chose type 3 anodizing so it will hold up better to the gas nozzle. This makes the finish a a little flatter than what is on the mini latches. I still need to get matching hardware, although I don't think the stainless looks terrible.

http://i.imgur.com/5JNCo3Pl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/48Xruo2l.jpg

[C.Plavan]

I just drove it....... Whoa, this is going to be fun! I'm still breaking in the motor, so I could not go crazy.
I need to break in the brakes more- Which is normal because everything is all new. The K-tuned shifter is awesome. Everything held together after "1 Lap". Security guard gave me a thumbs up.

The one problem is it stalls when coming to a stop. I'm hoping it is just the ECU learning, if not it could be a function of not having a VSS. It did throw that code along with a few others (air pump- which I removed) high fuel pressure and hot fuel or something like that. Temp was steady right below halfway.

[wallace18]

Congrats. That sounds like a small punch list. Way to Go!

[Frank818]

Good job!

You have no ISV?

[C.Plavan]

Thanks! What is ISV?

Here is the first drive and "Lap" in the 818R. I was breaking in the brakes, testing out the shifter. I was trying to keep it under 3500-4000. It sure is fast from what I can tell. I just gave it a little "Stomp" at the end.

I was giving a thumbs up back to the security guard in the video. I keep looking back to make sure I'm not on fire...lol. No rear view mirror.... You can see the stalling when coming to a stop. I think it is my lightweight flywheel too.
EDIT- I have the Spot Meter switched on (Gopro)- I usually have it in the coupe, so it compensates for the darkness inside. That is why the video is so washed out. I need to remember to turn it off when filming in the 818R.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MT6dPjCjw0o&feature=youtu.be

[JeromeS13]

The one problem is it stalls when coming to a stop. I'm hoping it is just the ECU learning, if not it could be a function of not having a VSS.

Now that you mention that, mine does this on occasion. Not every time, though...

[Hindsight]

Thanks! What is ISV?


Idle Stabilizer Valve. You can tell Frank is a VW guy (as am I) because that's what VW calls them. Also called idle air bypass valve, by some. Not sure what Subaru calls them or if you even have one on your year and setup.

[Brando]

I also have a light ACT flywheel. I have continually suffered from stalling. I thought it was a vacuum leak but turns out it wasn't. I told the guys who tuned it, the told me why and said they fixed it on the tune. Not so much.

I still haven't been able to figure it out, i was tempted to move the idle needle on the intake.
I have been blip-ping the throttle while braking until its solved...gets old fast

Your engine sounds epic

[metalmaker12]

Mine never did this, but I have an oem flywheel.

[GUNS]

Congrats on the first drive! I hope to be driving mine very soon as well. I also have an ACT streetlite, so I'll let you know if I have any issues.

[C.Plavan]

Thanks! I took it out for a few more laps later. Breaking stuff in sucks when you want to floor it.

Brando- How long did it take to get the Wilwoods broken in? It's taking alot longer than I'm use to. My pedal is super firm, but braking sucks right now (new pads and rotors). I'm probably at least going to go with the ST43 Raybestos race compound. I'm not sure about these pads right now.

[Mechie3]

Subaru calls it the IACV.

I've had various reasons for stalling my subaru:
Too low idle (with LW FW and LW pulley)
leaky head gasket (logging showed it going lean coming to a stop then smoothing out)
bad 02 sensor

Changing the IACV gasket is cheapest and easiest first fix.

[C.Plavan]

Subaru calls it the IACV.

I've had various reasons for stalling my subaru:
Too low idle (with LW FW and LW pulley)
leaky head gasket (logging showed it going lean coming to a stop then smoothing out)
bad 02 sensor
Changing the IACV gasket is cheapest and easiest first fix.


I thought Drive by wire car did not have a IACV?

[Mechie3]

That's correct. Forgot you had an 06 motor. I was responding more to others not knowing what Subaru called their control valve. The DBW just controls the throttle plate directly.

If you can datalog it that can help determine if it's going rich and stalling or lean and then go from there. Compression check would be easy in the 818 too since the spark plugs are readily accessible.

[Hindsight]

leaky head gasket (logging showed it going lean coming to a stop then smoothing out)


Mechie, how did a leaky head gasket cause this and how would coming to a stop change it? I ask because I'm trying to solve a lean condition myself.

[C.Plavan]

I do not think there is any head gasket issue. Its a brand spanking new motor. I just think I need to bump the idle RPM or injector cutoff values.

[Mechie3]

Mechie, how did a leaky head gasket cause this and how would coming to a stop change it? I ask because I'm trying to solve a lean condition myself.

In my case (not a new motor) there was a small air leak that was mostly noticeable at lower rpms/air flow. At higher rpms/airflow the amount of the leak was small relative to the rest of the airflow. I upped the idle rpm to get by for a while but eventually my coolant was all brown so I took it apart and put new gaskets on and it was fine.

[Brando]

I drove the car around the street for 100 miles, ran 1 day of autocross, then when I went to streets of willow I was finally able to lock up my R6's. Seems excessively long but that was how it was for me. Even then I had to plow into the brake pretty hard to get it to lock.

[Hindsight]

Ahhhhhhh! Ok that makes perfect sense. Do you think this kind of leak would show up on a compression test, or would have to be a leakdown test?

(Sorry to hijack your thread Chad.... I've been chasing this problem down for a year now!) I would think to solve your issue, you could use an AccessPort or whatever to up your idle RPMs, like you mention, to compensate for the lack of inertia in the flywheel.

[longislandwrx]

did you check for vacuum leaks yet?

[C.Plavan]

did you check for vacuum leaks yet?

I gave it a good look. No idle problems at all. When its cold, it idles higher, then as it warms up it gets down to around 750 RPM. No jumping or anything.

I just think my lightweight pulley and Flywheel are the cause. I'll bumped up the "warm" RPM's to 900 to see if that will help catch it. I may go a little higher if that does not help.

[waruaki]

I run the lightened pulley's but not the flywheel. I have yet to have it ever stall on me.

[iWire]

Quick test to see if the stalling is from a vacuum leak (stalling when coming to a stop is a common symptom) is just to unplug the MAF. It'll run off the MAP sensor and if it doesn't stall you know it's a vacuum leak, if it does it's not.

[C.Plavan]

Quick test to see if the stalling is from a vacuum leak (stalling when coming to a stop is a common symptom) is just to unplug the MAF. It'll run off the MAP sensor and if it doesn't stall you know it's a vacuum leak, if it does it's not.

I started it up, pulled off the MAF and it stalled.

[JeromeS13]

Quick test to see if the stalling is from a vacuum leak (stalling when coming to a stop is a common symptom) is just to unplug the MAF. It'll run off the MAP sensor and if it doesn't stall you know it's a vacuum leak, if it does it's not.

That's only if you're running a MAF based tune, correct? I'm running Speed Density.

[C.Plavan]

FYI- I'm ditching the digital display. You cant see it in direct sunlight light. I worried about that. No Roof= No Good for display. Just going VDO gauges and using my Traqmate from the other race car. The Traqdash is better in sunlight than a tablet.

[C.Plavan]

In preparation for the dry sump pump/kit, I had to install the A/C idler pulley and associated bits. I had to swap out the steel alternator bracket (Everson Alternator turnbuckle kit) to the original bracket. The turnbuckle Alt belt adjustment still works which is nice. The dry sump pump mounts where the A/C compressor was.

http://i.imgur.com/KWQ458jl.png

http://i.imgur.com/DItQflIl.png

[C.Plavan]

I Plastidip'd the front of the dash. I'm pretty happy with the results. It breaks it up nicely from the top, and gives it a suede type look/feel. Crappy cell phone pics.

http://i.imgur.com/i8j1voSl.png

http://i.imgur.com/ZV97cmSl.png

[Hindsight]

Nice! I would have never thought to use plasti dip. I ordered my 818 with a "padded dash", which I was told was a new option, but they couldn't tell me where the padding is so I am assuming top only. I may do as you did for the front if that's the case.

[Frank818]

Yeah, get a better cell phone, Chad. :)

I will use plastidip as well on a couple of parts, so it did adhere nicely on the dash? How many coats?

[C.Plavan]

Nice! I would have never thought to use plasti dip. I ordered my 818 with a "padded dash", which I was told was a new option, but they couldn't tell me where the padding is so I am assuming top only. I may do as you did for the front if that's the case.

The pictures don't do it justice. You can see the shadow of my hands taking the picture on the dashpod picture. In real life its nice and uniform.

[JeromeS13]

Nice. I'm actually thinking of doing the opposite on mine (doing plastidip on the top and a semi-gloss or full gloss on the front).

[C.Plavan]

Nice. I'm actually thinking of doing the opposite on mine (doing plastidip on the top and a semi-gloss or full gloss on the front).

I was going to do the top in a carbon fiber wrap..... but I was missing 3" of wrap to cover the whole thing in one piece..... Murphy's law!

[freds]

I gave it a good look. No idle problems at all. When its cold, it idles higher, then as it warms up it gets down to around 750 RPM. No jumping or anything.

I just think my lightweight pulley and Flywheel are the cause. I'll bumped up the "warm" RPM's to 900 to see if that will help catch it. I may go a little higher if that does not help.


I have a light weight flywheel and crank pulley. I upped the idle speeds across the board with RomRaider and ECUflash. It helped a bunch, but it is still "iffy" and I get occasional stalls.

I have no air leaks etc. (from pressure tests of the inlet tract.). So I'm going to change to stock flywheel and damped crank pulley. Rapid engine accel. is not as important to me as not worrying about some heel and toe to avoid stalling.

[C.Plavan]

I have a light weight flywheel and crank pulley. I upped the idle speeds across the board with RomRaider and ECUflash. It helped a bunch, but it is still "iffy" and I get occasional stalls.

I have no air leaks etc. (from pressure tests of the inlet tract.). So I'm going to change to stock flywheel and damped crank pulley. Rapid engine accel. is not as important to me as not worrying about some heel and toe to avoid stalling.

Thanks- Just curious what Idle RPMs you set.

[flynntuna]

I was going to do the top in a carbon fiber wrap..... but I was missing 3" of wrap to cover the whole thing in one piece..... Murphy's law!


Plasti dip has a kit for faux carbon fiber.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7N5N-AYaENI

[freds]

Thanks- Just curious what Idle RPMs you set.

There are Three Idle Speed Target maps A, B, and C. The attached picture of the originals on my 06 with DBW.
I have no idea which one the ECU is programmed to use under which (?) circumstances.
So I increased each and every one by 200.
Since I only have a running go-kart and cannot really drive it around and gauge the difference, I cannot comment with any good facts. However it did make it significantly better on my neighborhood "closed circuit".
But it still is inclined to stall like when goosing it as I reverse up my driveway, and have to let up precipitously.

318853188531886

[Evan78]

I wonder if plastidip would be a good alternative to the typical suede wrap to reduce glare and reflecting in the windshield.

[C.Plavan]

I wonder if plastidip would be a good alternative to the typical suede wrap to reduce glare and reflecting in the windshield.

I think it would be great.

Here is a better picture in the car. Disregard the fiberglass fingerprints from drilling
http://i.imgur.com/UpiIpaql.png

[Brando]

For your drysump, are you going to use your exhaust, the oil pump, or a vacuum pump to pull the air out of the bottom end effectively?

[C.Plavan]

The Element Dry Sump kit includes a scavenge pump that attached to the A/C bracket. It also utilizes the A/C idler pulley for the belt. So essentially you will have two oil pumps now.

http://i.imgur.com/iZzLKJLl.jpg (http://imgur.com/iZzLKJL)
http://i.imgur.com/0Nyeffal.jpg

The oil tank that I'm going to have to find a spot for.
http://i.imgur.com/cK7KtaQl.jpg

***Note- I have been waiting patiently for 3+ weeks for this kit. They told me that they are waiting on the oil tank, and it would be no more that a week from when I ordered. Today, they say it may be another 2 weeks (total 5 weeks from when I ordered AND charged my credit card). I asked them to send me the kit minus the tank so I can at least start installing it. They are supposed to call back and let me know. If they cant, I will be cancelling my order and going with someone different.

[D Clary]

how did you apply the plasti dip?

[C.Plavan]

how did you apply the plasti dip?

Just a normal spray can. I did about 4-5 coats, 10min apart.

[Frank818]

I did about 4-5 coats, 10min apart.

Tnx

[Frank818]

http://i.imgur.com/iZzLKJLl.jpg (http://imgur.com/iZzLKJL)


Gold foil on which pipe?
Which gold foil, any Chinese knock-off or there are different grades of that?

[Brando]

The Element Dry Sump kit includes a scavenge pump that attached to the A/C bracket. It also utilizes the A/C idler pulley for the belt. So essentially you will have two oil pumps now.

Cool I get that part, I'm just trying to understand how the vacuum is created.

Is the oil pump responsible for creating that vacuum exclusively? I have read different things on this and trying to get my arms around why some people use the oil pump, some use a vacuum pump while others use the exhaust to get the vacuum to the crank. I have read a dry sump can yield gains of 25HP, which would be a nice added bonus.

That sucks about Element tuning. I sent them an email stressing my concern so hopefully they step up. I told them my order was contingent on yours being expedited.

Sorry for diluting your thread with so many drysump questions.

[C.Plavan]

Gold foil on which pipe?
Which gold foil, any Chinese knock-off or there are different grades of that?

That's not my car. That is someone else's. I have not received my kit yet.

Brandon- No worries. I guess the tank manufacturer is having "employee problems...." Element is sending me a Peterson tank instead. Thanks for the threat, it worked :)

I finished putting the belts in the car and mounting the dash. I need to install the ignition panel, and some additional gauges.

I also received my Aluminum intrusion plate. I need my buddy to notch it with his Plasma Cutter for the coolant tube near my feet, then I can install that.

Its coming along.

http://i.imgur.com/BPkmBtll.png

[C.Plavan]

I took the car out for a little acceleration test after work (Closed Course of course). I decided my helmet was needed (Plus, I found out bugs hurt when they hit you).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EbmvoH8Mdl8

[FFRSpec72]

you missed the apex !

[Goldwing]

Awesome! Congrats on reaching go kart! How did it feel?

[waruaki]

Looks quick

[mikeb75]

your car sounds angry! very nice

[metalmaker12]

You captured the sound nicely!!! Now your all addicted like me

[Frank818]

What a sound, man. That rabbit got afraid by the sound, not by the car! Imagine hitting one with your FB bumper in place. Byebye bumper.

[metalmaker12]

You captured the sound nicely!!! Now your all addicted like me

[Brando]

Echo

[D Clary]

Great to see you finally go cart. Hate to change the subject but I am a ways behind you. I saw how you and Brando trimmed the upper control arm and I did a similar job. I also cut the sleeves down and thinned the nuts on the rear portion so I could retain both Jam nuts. You need to run both nuts or the aluminum sleeve will wear out very quickly. Just curious, is this how they got camber in the FFR cars?32012

[C.Plavan]

Great to see you finally go cart. Hate to change the subject but I am a ways behind you. I saw how you and Brando trimmed the upper control arm and I did a similar job. I also cut the sleeves down and thinned the nuts on the rear portion so I could retain both Jam nuts. You need to run both nuts or the aluminum sleeve will wear out very quickly. Just curious, is this how they got camber in the FFR cars?32012

That is a good idea.
With mine the sleeve is not moving, it will not wear. As long as it is not moving, all should be good. Its crammed in there, and the opposite jam nut is further helping. The aluminum sleeve is tricked to thinking the jam nut is there, without having one.

[D Clary]

The steel threads will work in the aluminum sleeve without a jam nut to hold the threads tight.

[C.Plavan]

I bolted up my side intrusion plate (1/8" 7075 Aerospace grade Aluminum- Light and the same strength or stronger than 1/8th steel). I chose to use bolts to make it removable. Bolting in a new seat or belts is a chore.

Now on to body mounting.... I'm going to have to remove half the bolts on the intrusion plate, then clamp on the side pods, adjust, then drill through the side pod to find the holes..... fun.... but its for safety!

http://i.imgur.com/4lTTmhcl.png

[FFRSpec72]

I bolted up my side intrusion plate (1/8" 7075 Aerospace grade Aluminum- Light and the same strength or stronger than 1/8th steel). I chose to use bolts to make it removable.


What size bolts did you use ? As it seem FIA only allow 1/4" bolts

[C.Plavan]

1/4" :) I did not go into the round bars, just the square.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hi Chad,
Any thought about using some Impaxx foam?
Bob
32030

[C.Plavan]

Hi Chad,
Any thought about using some Impaxx foam?
Bob
32030

Not at first. Maybe later after the door vents are made :)

[Frank818]

How are you getting out of the car? Dukes of hazzard style? :)

32031

[Brando]

Won't it be fun to run an 818 against another 818? Buttonwillow? Streets? Seca?
Where will our first bit of joint ffr fun take place? That day is coming soon and I am pretty amped.

[FFRSpec72]

What size bolts did you use ? As it seem FIA only allow 1/4" bolts

I was going to weld mine like I did my Challenge car but think I will bolt to the 2" squares like you did.