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Working on some odds and ends before I get some go kart time in this week. I did get my headers back from ceramic coat and man do they look great. I had them done in black and then put a Satin finish over that and they are perfect! My local guy at Performance Kote did both for $375. Took the collectors apart, coated inside and out and even did the bolt heads. I'll be sending over my side pipes once everything is fitted for a matching set.
When installing again I remembered how much these ARP studs make this a breeze to do. I was going to use the gaskets sent from Gas n Pipes, but I also got a set of Remflex 3035 gaskets for comparison. Love my Gas n Pipes stuff, but nothing holds a candle to these Remflex gaskets. Better made and fit the 351W on the DART block perfectly. You have to hang the Gas n Pipes gaskets upside down in order to fit the ports on the head correctly, even though they are upside down to the header flange pattern, as the gasket mounting holes are not equidistant top to bottom. Odd...


I am also trying out the Nord-Loc washer system instead of the ARP flat washers. These worked great in other places I've used them so we'll see. They are about as thick as the ARP washers. If you want to try these out, you can get them here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D4QMQ848...sin_title&th=1

As a last action, I replaced my spark plugs. I figured I'd get a fresh set as these things have been around for the dyno as well as me tinkering a few times to get my timing right, and a lot of idling in the garage. Funny thing is that the plugs Roush included with the engine are Autolite 605’s. These are tapered plugs and not with crush washers. The 605's also come pre-gapped at .060"? The heads that come with the Roush 427 are AFR 205 heads, just branded as Roush, so not sure why they would pick a tapered plug as AFR recommends the Autolite 3924 or the NGK 7373, which both have crush washers. So I used the 3924s, as I have in the past. Gapped them to .035 and installed to 15 ft.lbs as recommended by Autolite.
One word on gapping plugs. Do NOT trust the little circular gapping tool. They are not all created equal. I had two that were .05" apart in readings. I used my feeler gauge instead.
I also made a clutch stop. I purchased a 1" x 2" aluminum block locally that was .5" thick. I then tapped two 10/32" holes to secure it from the other side of the driver's side footbox with button heads and one larger 5/16" hole for the stop itself. Painted it black and I think it came out really nice. Another one of those "no one else will know its there but me" efforts. I didn't have a stop in my last build but this should give it a more firm feel during 'spirited' driving. I might add some washers and a jam nut later to give it some additional stability.


Last edited by cv2065; 06-04-2025 at 09:40 AM.
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