CV2065 MKIV Roadster Build Thread #2 - Visors - Heat Shields - Saggy Pipe

[cv2065]

Finishing up the lighting electrical, and pretty much the rest of it as well, and I did have an oversight that 'kind of' turned out to be a blessing in disguise? On my last build, I had the 4 tail lamps that didn't require the Trailer Light Converter, so now that I have the square tail lights, I totally forgot to install this. Perceptively an easy task UNLESS you've buttoned up the dash and installed your trunk metal like me.

So...what do to. If I went the trunk route (ideal situation), I'd have to drop the gas tank again as I can't pull the harness through unless I unscrew the 3 harness cushion clamps that I have on both sides to where I can pull it down and do the surgery. Not a big deal but I just signed off on a leak free system and would have to uncouple my fuel lines, and it would still be somewhat of a challenge pushing it all back through once connected.

Second option would be to pull the dash. Again, not difficult but I just got my turn signal situated and I'd have to struggle with the steering column a bit to push it up so that the dash could flip down, and that particular harness is kind of buried with little working room and would be a hassle there as well. Of course, the idea is to not screw up anything that is currently working while trying to get this hooked up.

Third option is to do it in the tunnel, which after some thought, I think is the best option anyway. Many have mentioned that if the trailer module goes out, whether it sits on the gas tank or in the dash, it will be a challenge to access, remove and replace. In this case, if I need to get to it, just remove the tunnel cover and its right there. I have quite a bit going on in there with my harness and speaker looms, so if I install it at the upper top of the tunnel side with 3M dual lock and wire loom, it should be shielded from the elements, etc.

So, how does this thing wire up? I found these schematics on past threads and added some labels as my printer is only shooting out B&W copies for the moment. One thing to note on the first schematic it says the purple wires are not needed but those wires will need to hook up from the harness to the converter via the red brake wire, but not on the output as it's a 5 to 4 converter. The purple wires and tan wires need to be doubled up when connecting from the harness to the converter. The black, yellow and white harness wires are singles.





During the testing phase, I used WAGO connectors. Man these things are so easy to use, secure and they don't distort the wire, but I will be using Permaseal butt connectors for a water tight seal once testing is over. Once hooked up, here's what it looked like. Looks messy now but will clean up once butt connected and reinstall the wire loom. Then attach it all back to the tapped clamps.



Happy to say that all of my lights worked the first time around. Tested the headlights, turn signals, brake lights, hazards and interior lights. Hazard button works like a champ. Again, used the WAGOs to hook up the front and back. I will need to make an adjustment on the brake light button at the pedal. It needs to come back a turn or two in order to actuate the brake light earlier.

I did have one casualty and that was clipping the wrong tan wire in the harness. You can see it in the pic. There are 3 tan wires in the harness. One is for the fuel pump and the other two are for the lighting. You'd think they would have chosen another color to differentiate. I thought that I had the correct two, but upon closer inspection, the fuel pump wire is one step higher in gauge than the taillight wires. Nothing a permseal butt connector can't fix but unnecessary work.





Once I clean up this last bit of electrical, it's time to rivet in the back wall, complete the amplifier routing, speakers and carpet.