Carl's Mk 4 Roadster Build

[carlewms]

I am finally nearing completion of the wiring of the dash ... between work and other things I finally got a round to it.

I initially planned on doing a custom wire loom for the ISIS dash but after trying to connect the micro connectors together ... I gave up! Between the fat fingers and the aged eyesight, it became obvious that it would take me forever to make up those darn small connectors

With the ISIS dash most of the wiring is low current/low voltage and, with the use of LED indicator lights and gauge lighting, the 12 V power is very low current as well. There is not any 12v power going through any of the Lucas switches, even the ignition switch.

To make the dash easier to remove I am also putting all the ISIS controls on one connector, the low voltage and grounds on another connector so that only two are required to remove the dash from the car.

Here are some of the components I used:

Completely Insulated Sure Fit Female Connectors ... these have heat shrink completely covering the connector and solder that melts on to the crimped connection.

Pre Crimped and "unshrunk" on the left and Post Crimped and "shrunk" on the right.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4d738b3127ccef7721a575dac00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420140920024251233.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

McMaster-Carr Part Number: 9397K12

The other connector that came in handy was this Molex female spade connector with a male connector on the side. These make jumping from one gauge or switch easier ...

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4d736b3127ccef776b0f3cb4500000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420140917090947979.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

McMaster-Carr Part Number: 72065K52

Because I am using one indicator light for the turn signals I also had to make the modification to add a diode in each of the positive wires going to the LED indicator.

Radio Shack Part Number: 276-1661

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4d738b3127ccef772cd981d9000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420140919114326547.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I found the EEA website had great tutorials on connecting diodes/resistors to wire to make sure the connection was sturdy.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4d738b3127ccef7735417fcb700000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420140919114335432.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Here is the end result ...

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4d738b3127ccef773e6557d9c00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420140919114339071.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Installed on the dashboard ...

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4d738b3127ccef772a0665dc000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420140919114341386.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The results in the next post ...

Carl

[carlewms]

Here are some photos of the semi wired dash ... most of the wiring on the dash is completed except three of the switches on the left. The wires trailing in front of the dash will be connected to a single molex connector to allow for quick disconnect of the dash.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4d738b3127ccef77266355df000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420140920034436035.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I still need to neat it up some of course ...

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4d738b3127ccef7739905bc5b00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420140920034440451.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4d738b3127ccef773780ffcb900000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420140920034437255.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

As a precaution I also checked continuity of the connections through the switches and the grounds.

Carl

[Gumball]

X2 on that EAA site for soldering diodes... those guys building airplanes know all the tricks!

[carlewms]

I continued wiring over the weekend...focusing on getting the the pins on the wires going to the MASTERCELL and trying to organize them a bit.

I installed a 6 pin molex connector to the wires requiring power from the front POWERCELL:

Ignition: Gauge Power (red)
Parking Light: Gauge Needle Lighting, Gauge Lighting (white, white)
Turn Signal Indicator Light: left, Right Turn Signal Lights (violet, brown)

I re wired the wiper motor switch so that it is isolated and wired according to the ISIS instructions and the diagram I got off the forum for wiring the motor for park and high and low speeds. This is the only switch on the dash with 12v going through it on the dash.

After further research I found the wiring and pin layout for the wiper switch and then checked for confirmation by checking continuity with the switch in different positions since there are no markings on the switch. The switch is off-on-on type with a Lucas Part Number: 32597. One frustrating "feature" of these Lucas switches is a total lack of marking on the components. These switch and wiper motor wiring drawings are courtesy of Holden Vintage and Classic in UK.

Switch Wiring:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4d703b3127ccef7785318a98d00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420140922142751148.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

Motor Plug Wiring:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4d703b3127ccef7783c84688e00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420140922142752253.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

The other thing I learned ... The off position is with the toggle at the top position (at least as far as the diagram is concerned) so I am technically mounting the switch upside down (I wanted to have up signify "on" with the switch in the lower position being "off").

The four wires for the switch are:

Power or Hot: Ignition (red) which on ISIS comes from the Light green Output 3 from the front POWERCELL
Fast Speed: Fast Speed (brown)
Park: Park (white)
Slow Speed: Slow Speed (yellow)

From right to left in the photo below:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4d703b3127ccef77838cbe9f300000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420140922142756074.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

I also found that I could create labels for the wires by using a small font on my label maker, then inserting the label inside some heat shrink to seal it on the wire. I doubt it is original idea ... but I found it cheaper than other methods and more durable. Here are the results:

Here is the technique I used:

1. Using Black on White label maker tape (or any other contrasting color combination), print the label in a font size suitable for the wire diameter. I used 10 pt font but 12 pt can work for 14-16 AWG sized wire;

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4d703b3127ccef77947ee893d00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420140922195138132.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

2. Trim the width tape down so the tape is about 1/2 to 2/3 the diameter of the wire;

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4d703b3127ccef779a0d5c9ed00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420140922201416116.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

3. DO NOT REMOVE the backing and insert inside the heat shrink and position so the heat shrink so that it's slightly longer than the label...so it seals it up nicely;

4. Insert the wire; and,

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4d703b3127ccef778016fa9d300000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420140922201418246.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

5. Apply the heat to affix the label.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4d703b3127ccef779f68b48a800000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420140922201420752.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

I am stalled on finishing up the termination of the wiring to the MASTERCELL awaiting some more connectors to come in the mail.

[DaleG]

Fantastic!

With the wiper switch: nothing get attached to poles 1 and 7?

[carlewms]

Dale,

Terminals 1 and 7 are connected and do not have any connections.

Thanks,

Carl

[DaleG]

Dale,

Terminals 1 and 7 are connected and do not have any connections.

Thanks,

Carl

Thanks, I just didn't understand what they meant by "connected".

[2bking]

I like the wire label method. It's a little late for me but would have used it earlier in my wiring. I printed the labels and used clear packing tape to attach them but the tape isn't very robust when subjected to chemicals and heat.

[WIS89]

Carl-

The wire labeling method is a terrific idea. Please forgive me in advance of stealing your idea!

Your build is continuing to look great.

Regards,

Steve

[carlewms]

With the with all the traveling for business I have not had a chance to get out and work on the car is much as I would like. Here are some updates of the wiring harness installations and connectors are used to connect the sensors for the gauges, power and switch inputs to the MASTERCELL.

The dash wiring is cleaned up and wire tied together to get it as neat as possible under the circumstances. Because of my lousy eyesight and fat fingers, I chose to leave some of the bulkier connectors and extra wire that came with the SpeedHut guages in place rather than build a custom harness for the guage power and lighting.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cf23b3127ccef7d05fa59f7b00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141103020608481.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

After deciding to use Molex connectors between the dash and the different parts of the ISIS wiring harness, I settled on 5 connectors for the dash side of the wiring. The connectors used are:

Male Connectors: Molex Standard .093" Male Crimp Terminals 22-18 AWG (02-09-2118C)
Female Connectors: Molex Standard .093" Female Crimp Terminals 22-18 AWG (02-09-2119C)

Windshield Wiper Switch: I decided to run this separately to the bulkhead connector since this was the only pure 12v switch on the dash.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4ce10b3127ccef72a45fa630c00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141101035357764.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Plug: Molex Standard .198" Free-Hanging Plug - 94V-2 (03-09-1042)
Receptacle: Molex Standard .198" Free-Hanging Receptacles - 94V-2 (03-09-2042)

Low Voltage/Low Current: A fifteen pin connection was used to connect all the inputs and grounds to the MASTERCELL from the switches on the dash the dash. Since the MASTERCELL can be ruined by 12v power I wanted to make sure all its inputs were wired and ground separately.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cf25b3127ccef7dcf6e28c4b00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141105043210111.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Plug: Molex Standard .198" Free-Hanging Plug - 94V-2 (03-09- )
Receptacle: Molex Standard .198" Free-Hanging Receptacles - 94V-2 (03-09- )

RT Turn Signal: The turn signal, high beams and flash to pass are connected at the base of the steering wheel through a molex 6 pin connector.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cf23b3127ccef7d074895eea00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141103062813884.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Plug: Molex Standard .198" Free-Hanging Plug - 94V-2 (03-09-1064)
Receptacle: Molex Standard .198" Free-Hanging Receptacles - 94V-2 (03-09-2061)

Gauge and Indicator Lighting: A six pin connection was used to connect the 12v power side of the three indicator lamps, the dial and gauge lighting and the gauge power. The ground is on the left.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cf25b3127ccef7dc40ff8c0d00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141105043236999.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Plug: Molex Standard .198" Free-Hanging Plug - 94V-2 (03-09-1064)
Receptacle: Molex Standard .198" Free-Hanging Receptacles - 94V-2 (03-09-2061)

Gauge Sensors: The gauge sensor positive and grounds are routed through a separate 18 pin connector. These are then fed to one side of the bulkhead connector which will serve as the one spot going through the firewall for all wiring.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cf25b3127ccef7dc51144d4600000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141105043215107.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Plug: Molex Standard .198" Free-Hanging Plug - 94V-2 (03-09-xxxx)
Receptacle: Molex Standard .198" Free-Hanging Receptacles - 94V-2 (03-09-xxxx)

Some lessons learned about selection and use of the plugs and receptacles:

Make sure you order the free standing version...not the panel mount version;
You need equal numbers of plugs and receptacles...dont ask why;
Order the right crimper and removal tools;
Label the wires; and,
Make sure to the to consistently use the terminators on one side of the plug ... all pins on one on the male on the plug and female on the receptacle for example.

[carlewms]

After getting the dash somewhat squared away ... I wired up the bulkhead connector to allow for the passage of wires through the firewall. After looking at several options to go through the firewall I decided to use a Weatherpack 22 position connector.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cf25b3127ccef7dc347e0d8600000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141105053542547.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The problem is that, while a great connector, it is very ugly. While not worried about the part inside the dash, the connection on the outside of the firewall would not look very authentic. I am solving that by fabricating a metal cover like the one on the originals.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4ce38b3127ccef732c255f6f900000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141019190743710.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

While the connector comes with multiple sizes of terminals and plugs the standard weatherpack parts work on the connector.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4ce01b3127ccef73db3eb131000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141020073710559.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4ce38b3127ccef733ef5d963300000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141019190747012.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cf23b3127ccef7d172c9ffd500000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141103062814901.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4ce10b3127ccef72abe47235400000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141101035347377.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Next ... finishing a couple of the connectors from the MASTERCELL and the starter/ignition wiring.

[2bking]

Very nicely done. The 22 pin Weather Pack was a nice find. You must be getting close to your first start.

I'm using the "one button" start on my Infinity Box (name changed from ISIS) and had used a keyed ignition switch but didn't think it completely through as there are problems doing it that way. I ditched the ignition switch and ordered the "In Touch" key fobs and circuit board. With the fob I can turn on accessories without the fuel pump running and the ignition circuit active.

[carlewms]

King,

I did the following with the start button/ignition switch ... which I think will work.

Instead of using Input 20 "One Button Ignition Start" to wire the button start switch, I wired Input 4 "Starter" to the button and wired Input 3 "Ignition" to the ignition switch. To start the car, the ignition switch must be in the ignition position and you have to press the button.

I will know soon if this will work.

Carl

[carlewms]

I have been slowly getting the wiring of the dash done.

The main dash side is complete ... the firewall side needs a few more connectors added and then the harness cleaned up with braided shielding and tape (which will come after electrical testing).

The last bit to wire in on the dash was the map light and the switch on the PS side of the glove compartment.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cf38b3127ccef7f2146d7bf000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141119194601181.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Just below the dash I fabricated a panel to cover the MASTERCELL from the InfinityBox (Formerly ISIS) and covered it with leather to match the dash. The clock is mounted but the remaining switches for the two lights remain to be installed. I will probably install power ports on either side along with a USB charging port which will be wired directly to the battery so I can charge up the iPhone and iPad as needed.

I purchased a panel to fill in the bottom of the dash as well but that will probably not be dealt with until I get ready to deal with the body fitment and definitely after testing is completed. Here are some photos:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cf38b3127ccef7f252d3fa5d00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141119194551536.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

It looks a little bare above but when the additional switches and power ports are installed it will fill out a little. If I install a heater the controls for the heater will also be on this panel.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cf38b3127ccef7f2b914ba7700000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141119194553255.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The two grommets in the top of the transmission tunnel cover are for the CAN cable going to the rear POWERCELL in the trunk and other inputs from switches such as the storage bin and trunk lights.

Carl

[carlewms]

With the proverbial "honey do" list ... not as much progress this weekend as I would have liked but here is a quick up date.

I installed the under dash panel ...

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cf05b3127ccef7e500c03d4600000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141124132558036.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The under dash panel is attached to the transmission tunnel cover and firewall using black sheet metal screws with countersunk washers. The section above will be ultimately covered by the transmission tunnel carpeting.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cf05b3127ccef7e447235d5200000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141124132553866.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Inside the space created by the under dash panel allows for routing of the wiring to and from the rear POWERCELL.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cf38b3127ccef7f2b914ba7700000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141119194553255.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I still need to decide on the switch positions to go on the under dash panel.

Naturally I could not wait to get the rest of the dash at least on the frame to see what it all looked like.

From the DS ...

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cf05b3127ccef7e4dae51d4200000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141124132549702.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cf05b3127ccef7e5e8a23d5000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141124132553325.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

From the PS ...

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cf05b3127ccef7e47e9b1d6e00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141124132549821.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I next fabricated a bezel for the steering wheel shaft. Here it is before I polished it up to match up with the gauge bezels.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cf05b3127ccef7e53ee13d7800000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141124132558984.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The cutout at the top of the bezel is to account for the bezel on the Oil Temperature Gauge (since I had raised my steering column slightly to allow for more room). The cutout on the left is for the wiring from the Russ Thompson turn signal stalk.

Carl

[dallas_]

Carl,
That's looking really nice. Can't wait to see it in person next spring!
I see you've signed up for the TCC annual meeting.
John

[carlewms]

John,

Thanks. Yes I am planning to attend with the car...although it may be in gelcoat.

Carl

[DaleG]

OK, that's it! I'm not following this thread any more or I'll never finish my build; just too many great ideas and mods, Carl.;)

[carlewms]

Dale,

Thanks...I am getting impatient with my own mods and delays... Oh well move forward.

Carl

[Gumball]

Carl,

Your car is turning out great - keep up the good work and don't let the mod time give you grief... it's all worth it in the end!

[carlewms]

I started this weekend with lots of lofty goals … here is what I actually got done:

After checking the clearance on the DS, the MASTERCELL interferes with the installation of the charging plugs on the PS so I installed the USB charging port and the 12v DC charge port only on the passenger side of the under dash.

A hole saw 1 1/8 in diameter was used to cut out the holes. Here are the results:

The 12V receptacle is to the right and the USB to the left where it will be easier to see the two ports inside the USB charger.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc29b3127ccef7846cecbeb100000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141208151829995.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The plugs/outlets are held in place by a ring (similar to the ones on the Speed Hut gauges). Here is work in progress on the inside of the under dash.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc29b3127ccef7840034be5f00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141208151829524.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The switch for the PS light was installed. The one for the DS light has already broken...LoL for Lucas. The switch is physically stuck between the on and off position. I ordered four more from Finish Line...three for spares.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc29b3127ccef78445bb7f5a00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141208151837238.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Other than the missing toggle switch, the under dash is fully wired up through the female side of the 15 pin Molex plug.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc29b3127ccef78564649e7100000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141208151834155.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I wanted power available at all times to the 12v DC and the USB chargers so they will be connected to the battery via an inline fuse and a separate 12 gauge lead to the battery.

The lights are controlled through the toggle switches and the MasterCell and will only be available with the ignition switch in the on position.

Everything is labeled including all the wiring leaving the under dash.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc29b3127ccef785c12cdef300000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141208152806187.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Here is the finished side view

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc29b3127ccef78543e7de7900000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141208151838201.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The pin connection diagram for the 15 pin Molex connector is ...

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc29b3127ccef7859ffe5f3e00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141208152803622.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

[carlewms]

After the new upgraded clamps arrived from Aircraft Spruce I started the process of cleaning up the wiring throughout the car.

Louis (my aircraft mechanic brother) told me about the wiring clamps from Spruce Aircraft. The photo below shows the differences (the standard ones are on the left and the upgrades are on the right):

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc27b3127ccef798b6d5a9cb00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141207032517015.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc27b3127ccef79828dea98f00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141207032522360.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The differences are a bit subtle...but important to me. The most important was the smaller diameter attachment hole which made using the proper attaching hardware easier. The second was the wedge that fully surrounds the wiring harness when installed. This also allowed me to use stainless steel sheet metal screws to attach to the frame instead of rivets; allowing access to the wiring in case of a future problem or to add a circuit. Aircraft Spruce Part # MS21919- WDG"x" is a different number depending on size.

Here are some photos of the installation on the frame:

Supporting the wiring for the trunk light, license plate light and the pin switch for the trunk light:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc33b3127ccef78ce459429800000040O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141212124717032.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

Harness for the brake and parking lights:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc33b3127ccef78c9129024a00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141212135507946.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc33b3127ccef78d550d224000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141212135507516.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I also used self vulcanizing tape to protect the branch junctions on the harness where there is no braid installed. This tape, which took a little getting used to install, seals up the wiring nicely also giving the looms a more old school look. Unlike standard electrical tape it only sticks to itself so it can be removed without making a mess of the wiring beneath it.

After running out of the right sized clamps I place another order which will arrive on Friday so I can wrap it all up over the weekend.

[MPTech]

I thoroughly enjoy reading your posts! Thanks for sharing.
Regrettably, I fell behind on your thread and I’m catching up now.
Your wiring skills are STUNNING! And the timing is great for me. My initial wiring is done and my roadster was painted in early Spring, so I put the body back on, before completing the dash. Now that the driving season is over, I’m pulling the body back off to finish covering the dash, tidy up my wiring, add some quick disconnects, and finish some other mods I came up with over the summer. After seeing your post, I just ordered a Dymo Labelmaker, I REALLY like your wiring and labels.

Couple quick questions:
1. Where did you order clear shrink tube? All I can find locally is black and a variety pack of red, blue, green. (do you have a part number?)
2. What are you using for your ground buss (looks like you got them from DelCity?) and how did you mount it on the back of your dash?

Thanks! Keep up the great work!

[edwardb]

The one for the DS light has already broken...LoL for Lucas. The switch is physically stuck between the on and off position. I ordered four more from Finish Line...three for spares.

Just something I learned... I have used the ********** SPST "Lucas" switches on both of my builds. Also had one fail outright and another stopped working after it was installed. I don't even remember how I learned about it, but noticed the ********** ones come in a generic white box. And the switches aren't marked. Started poking around and found that actual Lucas branded switches are in a green box, and the switches themselves have the Lucas logo. Found a website and company in England -- Auto Electric Supplies Limited -- that sells an actual branded SPST Lucas switch and also a knock-off for about half the price. Ordered several of the actual branded switches (not cheap, especially with the exchange rate) and they appear to be higher quality. Switched out the broken one on my Mk3, and proactively swapped the ones in my Mk4 before the body when on and they were hard to reach. Bottom line, I think the switches from ********** are knock-offs, and maybe not as good as the genuine Lucas ones. It that's possible. FWIW. Note this is only for the SPST switch. As best I can tell the wiper switch from ********** is an actual Lucas part.

One other thing on your most recent post... Nice work. I thought I was the only one that obsessed about wiring details. (I know I'm not...). The replacement clamps you chose look nice. I found what I thought were improved ones at McMaster. I got a variety of sizes so they matched whatever cable size I was using. One suggestion. The cable run you put across the trunk hoop. Good idea, but personally I would rotate it 90 degrees, e.g. put the attachment on the bottom and the conduit on either side of the hoop. That way it's not hanging down into the opening. That opening is pretty small, and you will run into it frequently (at least I do) when loading in chairs, etc. Again, FWIW.

[carlewms]

MPTech,

Here are the answers to your questions:

1. Where did you order clear shrink tube? All I can find locally is black and a variety pack of red, blue, green. (do you have a part number?). This link is for the DelCity kit of translucent heat shrink which also has a glue that melts to seal up the connection.

2. What are you using for your ground buss (looks like you got them from DelCity?) and how did you mount it on the back of your dash? It is from DelCity. My only complaint is the cover doesn't stay on that well but I am solving that with one wire tie.

http://www.delcity.net/store/search/p_801497.h_801498.t_1.n_y.jsp?item=80500DL.

Thanks for the very encouraging words and compliments.

[carlewms]

EdwardB,

Thanks much...I went out to the garage and fixed the run along the trunk hoop so that the wiring runs on the front side of the hoop and the clamps are attached at the bottom...a lot better and more room.

Although I am running much less current across the switches because of ISIS (now Infinity) I don't like that these knock offs failed for mechanical reasons. I have checked out a site in UK as well you might check out as well: Holden
http://www.holden.co.uk/displayProducts.asp?=1&pgCode=020&sgName=Electrical&pgName=Switches&agCode=0502&agName=Toggle+Switches
Check out the video on how the convert their modern toggles using a custom bezel. I will check out the site you suggested as well.
I think I will order the switches as well and replace as I get a chance.

Again thanks for all sharing your experiences with us newbies.

[MPTech]

Thanks Carl! (didn't see the link for the clear tubing, but I think I found it. Clear Heat Shrink Tubing (http://www.delcity.net/store/Clear-Heat-Shrink-Tubing/p_326)

Am I looking at the right thing for the Buss Bar? $26.81?? yikes!
so how did you mount the Buss Bars? (drill holes in the dash and use counter-sunk heads??)

Thanks Again

[carlewms]

That is the correct heat shrink. Depending on how much you need there is also a kit with multiple sizes.

The bus bars are expensive...but I didn't want scrimp when it came to grounds. I also like that there were two large points to ground to the frame. I installed three:

Front: Top of the DS cross member. I had to contour the base to fit over the round tube.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4db25b3127ccef65de432c92100000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420140504094200916.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Dash: Just to the left of the speedometer. The one on the dash was mounted with Wellwood after roughing up the aluminum with 80 grit sandpaper (I had already covered the dash).

Rear: On the rear vertical side of the lower IRS cage centerline.
http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4da04b3127ccef5a659fd5c5000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420140426020005146.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4db20b3127ccef656838c12b600000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420140501165326265.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4db20b3127ccef6562571121800000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420140501165327964.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

These bars allowed me to install two paths to ground using 10 gauge wire at each end.

[DaleG]

Lucas Brand switches here: You just have to navigate around a bit. Or, call them.

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/SearchResults.aspx?SearchText=Lucas%20switches&WebCatalogID=0

[carlewms]

Dale,

I used to order stuff from them when I had my MG ... Didn't even think of them this time.

Carl

[DaleG]

Dale,

I used to order stuff from them when I had my MG ... Didn't even think of them this time.

Carl

I used them a lot when I had a Triumph. If you learn how to navigate through it all, you can find most of the switches and knobs from the "AC" era.

[carlewms]

After the new upgraded clamps arrived from Aircraft Spruce I started the process of cleaning up the wiring throughout the car.

Louis (my aircraft mechanic brother) told me about the wiring clamps from Spruce Aircraft. The photo below shows the differences (the standard ones are on the left and the upgrades are on the right):

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc27b3127ccef798b6d5a9cb00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141207032517015.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc27b3127ccef79828dea98f00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141207032522360.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The differences are a bit subtle...but important to me. The most important was the smaller diameter attachment hole which made using the proper attaching hardware easier. The second was the wedge that fully surrounds the wiring harness when installed. This also allowed me to use stainless steel sheet metal screws to attach to the frame instead of rivets; allowing access to the wiring in case of a future problem or to add a circuit. Aircraft Spruce Part # MS21919- WDG"x" is a different number depending on size.

Here are some photos of the installation on the frame:

Supporting the wiring for the trunk light, license plate light and the pin switch for the trunk light:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc33b3127ccef78ce459429800000040O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141212124717032.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

Harness for the brake and parking lights:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc33b3127ccef78c9129024a00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141212135507946.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cc33b3127ccef78d550d224000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141212135507516.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I also used self vulcanizing tape to protect the branch junctions on the harness where there is no braid installed. This tape, which took a little getting used to install, seals up the wiring nicely also giving the looms a more old school look. Unlike standard electrical tape it only sticks to itself so it can be removed without making a mess of the wiring beneath it.

After running out of the right size clamps I place another order which will arrive on Friday so I can wrap it all up over the weekend.

[carlewms]

After a few weeks it was good to get back in the garage...although the jet lag sure impacted the amount of work accomplished.

Although I had great intentions to maximize time in the garage today...I guess the jet lag is impacting me more.

I had ordered the modified mounting brackets that decrease the gap between the caliper and rotor ... Increasing the clearance between the inner wheel and the caliper top. This was a free fix provided by Wilwood in response to builder feedback.

After studying my installation I realized that 3 shims were originally which, if removed, would do what I wanted without replacing the brackets. I stored the new brackets and removed the shims on each of the rear end spindles. After mounting the tire on one side there is plenty of clearance between the inside of the rim and caliper.

With the shims installed:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df27b3127ccee859219def8f00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150106124718209.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

With the shims removed it increased the gap between the rim and the caliper by 1/8th of inch. The mod would have increased it a little more.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df27b3127ccee858b92a4e0800000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150106124721228.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The wheel installed spins freely:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df27b3127ccee859f5e66eae00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150106124714584.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Carl

PS ... Love those big fat tires!

[carlewms]

After doing Internet search on how to crimp and check the resistance of the ignition or spark plug wires. Based on the info on the web and from Taylor, my wires should measure out to less than 350 ohms/inch... Which doesn't sound too good compared to the claimed 50 ohms per inch for MSD.

I had purchased a set of Taylor grey wires with black boots. The crimper was a standard one from the local auto parts store; although non ratcheting it worked out just fine. Here is everything I used to make the customized wires:

The process for measuring the resistance was pretty straight forward. I did have to remove a two of the boots to verify I had good connections on the new connectors.

After fabricating the custom lengths, the average resistance is about 320 ohms/inch.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df28b3127ccee8473316a00f00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150110040741569.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df28b3127ccee84798f0611400000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150110040742128.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df28b3127ccee8474d1a210c00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150110040747692.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

[carlewms]

The FFR kit does not normally come with an oil temperature gauge but since I modified my dash to the SC, style I felt the need to install the temperature gauge in addition to the pressure gauge.

The sensor from Speedhut is a 1/8 in MNPT fitting and the tank (which came with a spare female NPT welded in just aft of the dipstick) required a 1/2 in MNPT fitting.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df28b3127ccee84694a8410600000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150110040320570.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The reducer, from Ace Hardware, is a 1/2 in MNPT and 1/8 in FNPT. The sensor and wiring come from the Speed Hut instruments from the FFR kit. I used one layer of Teflon pipe tape on the reducer and checked the entire sensor to make sure it was grounded properly.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df28b3127ccee846d510010600000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150110040320787.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Carl

[carlewms]

I am still using the amber lights for the front turn signals and parking lights but converted them to LED ... well converting is a real stretch. I just had to remove the incandescent bulbs and insert the LED lights from SuperBrightLEDs.com.

Just to show the difference between the incandescent and LED bulbs here are a few photos:

The first photo shows the LED on the left and the incandescent on the right. This is using the higher power setting (which I have set up to be my turn signals):

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df28b3127ccee8476166216600000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150109211940221.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The second photo shows the same arrangement but this time at the 50% power setting which is what I will use for the parking light function of the light:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df28b3127ccee846ac7041c200000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150109211940405.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The LED is clearly very much brighter than the incandescent version (hopefully not too bright)

The last photo shows the wiring connections to the one weather pack for each set of lights (per side). I installed a second ground for the headlights.

Carl

[carlewms]

What did I forget? Checking to make sure that I drilled the right size hole for the pin switches 9#* (thank goodness for Wellwood)

One of you guys ... I cannot remember who ... suggested that I could add switches to have the courtesy lights come on when someone opened the door. This weekend I attempted to execute the brilliant freakin idea.

First I got the following door jamb switch which is self grounding and self tapping (although because of my error at the head of this post, that feature was not used much).

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df30b3127ccee84265aecc5300000050O29AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150112020632823.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D2/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

For those not familiar with the switch it is normally open in the compressed position and then completes the circuit when the door opens.

I made an aluminum bracket to mount to the upper door hinge to serve as an extension to open and close the switch. It will be painted black to match the hinge before final installation.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df30b3127ccee842530dcceb00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150112020632765.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I also need to buy some 3/32 th lock nuts for final attachment to the hinge.

The switch goes in a small hole drilled in the crossmember below the dash. The wire is routed out to the end of the crossmember to the light.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df30b3127ccee84270dd0d8200000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150112020627637.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Here is the final installation mockup prior to painting:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df30b3127ccee842f0030d1c00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150112020630246.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Carl

[carlewms]

As those with the FFR Mk 4 Roadster know the space between the license plate light and the trunk handle is not wide enough to install a standard sized license plate without it covering up the trunk handle. As I understand it this occurred when they cured the infamous "perky butt" problem found in the earlier versions of their roadster. Additionally in my effort to make all lights on the car LED vice incandescent I wanted to convert the light to take LEDs.

Increasing the space for the license plate is pretty well documented on the FFR sites. Jeff Kleiner, who I would call a master builder, came up with a modification to the FFR supplied light which I liked the best because externally the fixture remains externally or visually the same as the original.

For those considering this modification ... the easiest path is simply to modify the fixture per the Kleiner method and substitute LED lights for the incandescent lights. Of course this is not what I did. (*P

After researching the SuperBrightLEDs.com site I found some directional LEDs specifically designed for illuminating the license plate.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df26b3127ccee85a3d9d97e100000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150108044429554.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ (Courtesy of the SuperBrightLEDs.com website)

However these were designed to replace the license plate retaining bolts.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df26b3127ccee85a1162163800000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150108044430415.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ (Courtesy of the SuperBrightLEDs.com website)

The problem with this approach, at least for this Olde Goat Herder, was that it took away from the original look. BTW, the above example uses the cool white version ... I plan to use the warm version which looks more like an incandescent light on the plate.

So to make the modification I essentially striped the interior of the fixture and fabricated a few parts to reconstruct my version.

The first was a new "bridge" to attach the metal cover and plastic lens to the mounting plate:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df32b3127ccee84f1fdf5c0800000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150114032104960.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

The retaining nut is from the FFR kit, the nut and bolt are 6--32 x 1/2 in SS Pan Phillips Machine. I used some blue Locktite when attaching the bolt to the "bridge".

To seal off the unused holes in the mounting plate, I just took some aluminum duct tape and put it on the back of the plate.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df32b3127ccee84eac3e3c6400000050O29AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150114032111593.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D2/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Here is a photo showing the mounting of the bridge (using the LEDs to retain the "bridge").

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df32b3127ccee84fdb7f5cca00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150114032115404.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

While I need to do the final adjustment when I get a plate, the angle of the installed LED's maximizes the fan of light on to the plate. The LED is SuperBrightLEDs.com Part Number MAL-B-WW2 ($4.95) and is the warm white in a black holder and has 120 degree beam angle.

After adding a plate to support the "raised" mounting of the plate, here is what the completed fixture looks like.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df32b3127ccee84f2ca21cf400000050O29AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150114032121590.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D2/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Carl

[DaleG]

Love your posts, as always.

[MPTech]

I like your door jamb switch setup Carl. Very clean installation. I've been thinking about this one for a while and really like your design.

Thanks for sharing!

[2bking]

I have the same jam switches and didn't have a plan for attaching them. I believe I'll use your approach. I also have the Infinity Box wiring which uses grounding to activate the circuits. It is made to order for these switches. Thanks Carl.

[dallas_]

Looking really good Carl.

I always liked a clean spark plug wire installation. Nice work on that.

[Carlos C]

Carl:

This is kind of a late question, but I've been just catching up with your build thread. Can you please tell me where you got your Baileigh shear/roller/brake combo, how much did it cost you, and how happy are you with it? I've been looking at the ones from Harbor Freight and Eastwood, but yours seems to be of good quality. I need one for the planned mods on my Coupe. Thanks.

Carlos

[carlewms]

Carlos,

I purchased directly from Baileigh. Here is the link:

http://metal.baileighindustrial.com/shear-brake-roll-sbr-3020

Cost was $695 plus shipping.

I really pretty pleased with it overall. Some items to consider:

1. The maximum side to a box or depth when bending is about 3.5 inches so if your looking at making deeper boxes you have be a little creative. I bend the opposite ends and then fabricate the other sides with tabs to rivet to the other piece (not the best word explanation);
2. It is 30 inches but trying to cut a 30 in piece of 6061 T6 .04 inches (like comes with the kit) is pretty difficult at the end of the brake/shear. It will bend easily to the full length;
3. It is very heavy. I had to take it apart to move it and had a helper; and,
4. I installed on a heavy table with large casters to make moving easier.

Bottom Line: I like have the capability in the garage and with care you can much better straight side parts with the machine than by cutting and bending with hand tools. What helped my decision was the quotes I was getting four the mods I wanted to make exceeded the cost of the machine plus shipping.

Carl

[Carlos C]

Great! Thanks for the info, Carl.

Carlos

[carlewms]

Previous in the build I had installed the tank and then decided to do the modification lowering the trunk floor to create additional space ... and to make access for wiring the car easier.

Installing the tank on an FFR ought to be a two person job but with the aid of a few boxes, a jack and some loud words of encouragement it finally got into place. I did manage to step on the pig tail for the fuel level sensor and break the retainer ... :crazy2. I will replace as soon as I get a new one.

For those that do not know, one of the design eccentricities of the FFR makes getting the front PS tank strap bolted up a real PIA. Although I thought I had it fixed during the first install it proved to be a bridge too far on what I hope to be the final installation of the tank. I ended up substituting a longer bolt but now need to get one with a allen wrench head to get it wrapped up.

The tank had previously been painted with undercoating and I retouched the parts that got scratched and installed the vent hose and sealed the fuel return (I am using a return less fuel system). I found that some heat shrink installed over the rubber cap sealed the return inlet.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df38b3127ccee8721f21094c00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150119131734379.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Some heat shrink installed over the rubber cap sealed the return inlet.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df38b3127ccee872dffd09f000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150119131733537.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

There is access to the top of the fuel pump housing from the trunk ... although not pictured there is a similar access plate above the fuel level sender.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df38b3127ccee8726cce490200000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150119131737328.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Here is a photo of the fill pipe installed on the PS side of the tank.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df38b3127ccee8728bd709f000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150119134202336.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Like some have done I will fabricate and install a charcoal filter in the vent line before final fit up.

Carl

[carlewms]

With the very shallow glove box, I really wanted additional storage accessible from the cockpit...here are the results starting with Breeze's excellent cubby modification:

I modified the mod by moving it forward in the truck leaving more room to stow the top for the car. After trimming the partition down by 1/4 inch on each side, the cubby is about 7 1/2 inches deep.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df36b3127ccee877485bffd100000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150117115649682.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The access was also cut in the rear cockpit wall and measures 5 3/4 by 10 1/4 inches. Breeze provides a nice piece of rubber trim to go around the opening as well as for the top of the divider wall. Final trim (required for Mk 4) of the wall and installation will happen after checking the fit with the body.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df36b3127ccee8772b893e9a00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150117115943554.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Breeze even supplies two pieces of aluminum angle to support the divider along side of the trunk wall which also covers any gaps...

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df36b3127ccee8765bc71ea000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150117115653287.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Here is a perspective from outside the car ...

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df36b3127ccee877e9e3bfa100000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150117115649513.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I may put an access door on the opening ... The final install will be after put the body on to determine how much to trim off the divider panel.

Carl

[carlewms]

While I had previously mocked up all the cockpit sheet metal, I waited until I had the wiring completed prior to finalizing the installation. As usual instead of taking the easy way out and leave it as mocked up, I decided to custom fit each piece. Additionally when the Mk 4 foot box is expanded it leaves some gaps that need to be filled in prior to putting down the insulation/sound deadening material.

Since the expansion moved the front of the box beyond the 2 inch tube, the gap between the tube needed to be filled in:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df38b3127ccee872b24149e200000040O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150119130623399.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Additionally a gap between the inside wall and the 4 inch tube needed to be filled in:

As fabricated:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df38b3127ccee872becac85f00000050O39AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150119130634809.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D3/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Ready for installation:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df38b3127ccee873a8b9e86b00000040O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150119130626129.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Here is the finished foot box (except the upper and outer panels will be done after getting all the stuff done inside the footbox (like sound proofing).

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df00b3127ccee87f3779f4db00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150121125953159.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The PS cockpit floor is now installed as well

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df00b3127ccee87f292775ba00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150121125956883.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Most of the gaps are now sealed up what remains with seam sealer.

Carl

[carlewms]

The location for the MSD Ignition Box was selected...inside the PS foot box on the outer panel. The notorious red brick fits pretty well up and out of the way of the passenger's feet, is not exposed to heat of the engine compartment and all its wiring connections within distance of the coil and battery.

First mounting it to the wall...

The kit comes with rubber mounts which I adapted for use on the outer panel. Since the outside of this panel is inaccessible when the body is on the car, I used a jam nut on the stud of the rubber mount on the inside of the panel and a lock nut on the outer side to "lock" the mount on the panel (as an extra measure, I used thread locker on each each rubber mount.There is enough room to accommodate the sound dampener materials.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df09b3127ccee86d2af0a87d00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150129012232995.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df09b3127ccee86d763f29ac00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150129012232577.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

BTW all the hardware is #10-32 SS.

Here is the brick mounted on the panel with the harness attached.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df09b3127ccee86dbe58a89f00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150129012235100.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df09b3127ccee86d145629f400000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150129012829258.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

As was done in the rest of the car all the wiring is enclosed in black braided wire loom so this was added prior to installation using heat shrink and self sealing electrical tape to protect the ends.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df09b3127ccee86c26f3090400000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150129012235406.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The harness is routed up through the outer top panel of the foot box through a rubber grommet and could be removed or installed with the body in place if need be.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df09b3127ccee86d9e7f299800000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150129013830489.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Here is a photo of the installed box and harness from inside the foot box.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5df09b3127ccee86c27bcc8e300000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150129013324647.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

I may add a kick panel to provide additional protection for the box after testing out the PS seating.

[Ray W.]

Great work, Carl!

[carlewms]

After doing battle with the norovirus the last few days ...

After finally feeling like I was returning to the world of the living I got my dead pedal finished for the DS foot box. As has seemed to be my current practice, I made something that could be simple into a little more complicated deal because ....

I wanted some sort of adjustability in the dead pedal.

Here are some photos:

I used some 1/8 in thick 6061 T6 Sheet Metal or Plate for the base and mounting bracket.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5dc28b3127ccee8064bc9156e00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150210022640534.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I softened up the bracket with with a little heat to make the bend easier. The technique I used was to cover the area where I wanted the bend with soot from the torch; then use the combination of gas and oxygen at a higher heat to clean off the soot. The part then gets "soft" enough in to bend in the vice with the assistance of a couple of whacks with a hammer.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5dc28b3127ccee806b23ed44d00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150210022642019.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The next photos show the range of adjustability. I used SS 1/4 x 20 rivets, washers and allen head screws to secure the bracket on the outside DS sheet metal.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5dc28b3127ccee807dc5e756600000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150210030054170.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5dc28b3127ccee8070f2935e000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150210030055900.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

This is viewing from the foot planting end ... it will be covered with non skid eventually. The rivets give it some "grip" the left row being functional holding the plate on to the base and the right row just for effect.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5dc28b3127ccee807a121b48f00000040O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150210030045696.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Here is DS foot box with the side wall temporarily installed.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5dc31b3127ccee800657f016000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150210125533140.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

[FormulaGod]

I love these build threads. You guys truly don't realize the help you give to other builders; particularly with the detailed instructions and posts.

[carlewms]

I purchased a small (1#) fire extinguisher from Finish Line ... Halotron (Halon substitute). It comes with a nice bracket and I installed it using 1/4 x 20 Rivnuts and allen head screws with lock washers.

Since I have a panel that occupies the spot under the dash, i decided to mount it on the rear cockpit wall between the seats.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5dc33b3127ccee80cd100302e00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150212082841156.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

It is not the ideal spot ... but the only one I could find in the cockpit (I wanted easy access).

Carl

[carlewms]

Here is the PS outside panel with the first piece of Dynamat Extreme installed in the car. The stuff cuts with a good pair of shears or an exacto type knife. After installing and pressing in with a wallpaper seam roller, the thickness of he material was only about 1/8 in.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5dd34b3127ccee8cb04fb579400000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150315224550388.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Here is the method I used to cut the templates prior to cutting into the expensive material:

Tools: Sharpie, 24 inch Steel Rule, Shears, Exacto or Sharp Utility Knife. Craft paper ...really the packing paper from the FFR boxes and lots of room on the dining room table.

In the ideal world it helps to create the template before the panels are attached in the foot boxes where access is very limited for us OWF types guys (that is Old Wide and Fat for those wondering).

Creating the Template:

1. Using the craft paper make a template of the panel to be covered. Be sure to account for any overlaps between two panels. Instead of trying to trace all the lines I captured the corners or changes and the used the rule to create the straight lines. I found it useful to mark and cut at least one straight edge and then go back to the panel and using that edge mark and align the template for the remainder;

2. For curved areas, I marked several points along the curve and then connected them free hand with the template on a flat surface;

3. Mark the craft paper with location for the template and reference to up or down and sides;

4. Use the shears or exacto/utility knife to cut the template; and, last but not least,

5. Check your new template against the panel to make sure you got it right!

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5dd34b3127ccee8cb976617d800000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150315162435802.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Transferring the Shape to the Dynamat Extreme: This is where it was easy to goof up...at least for me! The back of the DE has a covering on it which is easy to mark up for cutting; the front black and silver makes it harder to see your cut lines. I instinctively selected the tan back side BUT initially totally freaking forgot to reverse the template to take into account that the template was created for the front of the DE (or from the front or inside face of the panel);

1. Fit the template to maximize the use OD the DE. If using the backside be aware there is about 1/2 inch of excess backing on each side of the DE;

2. Mark the DE using the same method as creating the template above;

3. If your anal like me, I found that I could cut small holes that were too small for the shears and too big to big to punch with a screw driver with a hole saw backed by a piece of wood;

4. Using the shears cut out the DE using the inside of the lines makes from the template. For some areas or sharp curves use the exacto or utility knife; and,

5. Unless your installing them immediately, I would recommending marking them on the back like the templates.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5dd34b3127ccee8cab04d773400000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150315162438534.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

[carlewms]

With the extreme cold, getting the engine installed got completely stalled. Between Mom Duty at the hospital and work, the progress ground to a virtual halt on the build and the goal of driving it to the TCC Spring Meet in San Marcos, TX at the end of the month.

Since I could work inside the house on wiring. I spent a lot of time going over the wiring dieting out those I will not use on the engine, removing the standard electrical tape and installing the self-sealing or cold vulcanizing electrical tape, installing braid wire loom material and finalizing the routing of the wires. All connectors will be replaced with heat shrink type from Delcity to better seal against moisture intrusion and connection failure.

The following wires were cut out or not connected on the MSD harness:

1. White Wire: This is used if using a points circuit.

One thing common to both the MSD ignition and the EZ EFI is the absolute necessity to have clean primary power directly from the battery. Both sets of instructions had this emphasized in bold in several spots in the installation instructions.

Here is a photo of the completed harness:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5dd34b3127ccee8ca5efdf6c300000050O29AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150315230413528.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D2/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Connector to the MSD box ... added braided wire loom, heat shrink and tag:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5dd34b3127ccee8cbf2d1d6f500000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150315231129369.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Distributor Wiring Connector ... the connector connects the Violet and Green wires through supplied harness (PN 8860):

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5dd34b3127ccee8cbd686578000000050O29AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150315231130324.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D2/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The connections to the coil (Orange and Black) come already contained in a loom:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5dd34b3127ccee8ca99a3375600000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150315231131222.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I am awaiting some parts from DelCity before finishing off the leads for the power, ground and switched 12V. The rest will be completed after engine installation so I can customize the wiring lengths.

Carl

[carlewms]

This harness on first look intimidated the hell out of me. Too many connections; not all needed for a system only controlling the fuel system (it can be used to control timing as well but I opted not to use that feature).

After going on the FAST support site I learned that the harness can be dieted down if carefully executed simplifying the harness and reducing a lot of extra wire cluttering up the engine compartment. It also helped a lot when i realized the harness really four functions:

1. Sensor Inputs to the ECU (Air & Coolant Temperature, Manifold Absolute Pressure, Throttle Position, Engine RPM );
2. Outputs from the ECU (Fan(s), Fuel Pump, Injectors, Target AFR, Idle Air Control)
3. Controls (Hand Held); and,
4. Power (Primary/Ground) from the battery and Switched 12V from the ignition switch.

Here is a summary of what I removed using the names supplied by FAST EZ EFI. Per their recommendation any dieted wires were capped with heat shrink and folded back into the harness (under the braided loom).

At the ECU:

1. CAN Link;
2. Configurable Input (reserved for future use) Grey/Black;
3. Configurable Output (reserved for future use) Blue/Yellow; and,
4. Nitrous Input Grey/Red.

In the harness:

1. These three connections are used only if the ECU is controlling timing:

- Crank Trigger;
- Distributor: and,
- Distributor Power - Pink

2. Fuel Pump Harness / Relay (single pin): Normally used to power the fuel pump relay for a standard pump in a return system. In this application I am using a returnless system where the in tank fuel pump is controlled by a digital relay. The pump speed is varied to maintain the required pressure to the throttle body; and,

As in the Ignition system I cleaned up the harness replacing standard tape with the self-sealing type and wire braid loom as appropriate. The main harness comes with a large rubber grommet for the bulkhead connection but I moved it down to give more room inside the DS to allow the ECU to pivot down for trouble shooting.

From the bulkhead to the ECU:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5dd34b3127ccee8cb489757de00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150315144319535.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The ECU is located on the DS on the spot normally reserved for the fuse panel and will come out at the top of the DS foot box via the large rubber grommet on the left. The grey wire is reserved for connection to an air conditioning system (to let the ECU know when it is on) and the pink wire is to the switched power off the ignition switch.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5dd34b3127ccee8ca781d770000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150315235105922.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The hand held used to program the ECU is connected to this pig tail.

There are five sensors from the engine/ignition system to the ECU:

Fuel Pressure: The sensor is located in the transmission tunnel.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5dd34b3127ccee8caad1937f600000040O39AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150315162413458.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D3/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Temperature Coolant: Connect the intake manifold temperature sensor to the throttle body.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5dd34b3127ccee8cb728c57d800000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150316005832031.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Oxygen Sensor: To be connected to the sensor located in the exhaust header

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5dd34b3127ccee8cb97c3964d00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150315144314858.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Throttle Body:

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5dd34b3127ccee8ca1043776a00000040O39AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150315162416845.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D3/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Engine RPM: This will be sensed of the output of the MSD Ignition Box.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5dd34b3127ccee8cabee4779a00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150315162410158.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

For future reference I created tags for each leg of the harness to make installation and future trouble shooting easier.

I have gone about as far as I can go on the harnesses until I get the engine installed and the throttle body attached to custom route and fit the the wires.

Carl

[Jazzman]

Ok, Carl, now you are just intimidating the heck out of me!! How do mere mortals like me even try to compete with a guy who custom makes marker tags for every electrical connection in the wiring harness?!! I'm not sure whether to throw up my hands in failure, or ask you how you made such perfect tags and steal your idea outright!!

Seriously, Carl, all your amazing work, combined with your excellent photos and explanations, are a great help. Thank you!

Jazzman

[DaleG]

Seriously, Carl, all your amazing work, combined with your excellent photos and explanations, are a great help. Thank you!

You are certainly not alone in your thinking; Carl does set a high bar!

[carlewms]

Folks,

Thank you ... So many have shared their build experiences over the years and made such a huge impact on my build, it's just seems like the right thing to do.

I think, with all the help online, and those folks that are local to each build that help, that anyone with the will can build one of these cars.

Again thanks for the kind words ... They fire me up to get back out in the garage.

Carl

[chopthebass]

Ok, Carl, now you are just intimidating the heck out of me!! How do mere mortals like me even try to compete with a guy who custom makes marker tags for every electrical connection in the wiring harness?!! I'm not sure whether to throw up my hands in failure, or ask you how you made such perfect tags and steal your idea outright!!

Seriously, Carl, all your amazing work, combined with your excellent photos and explanations, are a great help. Thank you!

Jazzman

Is that a Ken Smith in your Avatar?

[Jazzman]

Good eye, Chop! You are right. Another toy with lots of power. I used that as my inspiration to build my own. Similar body configuration, but I used a carbon fibre Modulous neck. It is at the luthier now having a half a jillion coats of lacquer applied.

[chopthebass]

Sorry to hijack the thread! Jazzman I could talk bass all day! I make my own too. You must post some pics when the bass is finished. Maybe on a new thread!!

[Ray W.]

Wow, it's cool to learn that there are other luthiers on this site! Cars and guitars… It's a great combination! Carl, your build is going great. I'm thinking about doing your mod (to Jeff's mod) to my license plate.

[carlewms]

Ray,

Thanks on two points...the compliments on the build and teaching yo this Olde Goat a new word: luthier.

Carl

[carlewms]

As you know recently the build has been a low priority although I still continue to find it to be a therapeutic break from the events of the last three months.

I finished off the sheetmetal and dynamat on the PS foot box. While I was finishing that up I got the PS courtesy light installed in the top of the foot box.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5db20b3127ccee957899ac50500000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150501093045619.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5da11b3127ccee8a83a0c787400000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150430135953222.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5db20b3127ccee957a922c5ad00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150501093034517.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The courtesy light is LED so it should last for quite awhile. I used aluminum tape to hide the wiring.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5db36b3127ccee977fd019e0700000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150517180735837.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I ran the wiring from the door switch down to the light

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5db36b3127ccee97724bc5f7e00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150517180738011.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

This last photo shows the MSD wiring harness, the courtesy light wiring harness and the power going to the rear POWERCELL all in one shot. Inside the loom carrying the power to the POWERCELL is a primary wire for unstitched power needed in the dash area (clock, seat warmers, others TBD).

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5db36b3127ccee976afa4bec700000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150517191259593.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Carl

[carlewms]

To recap the MSD Ignition Box is located on the outer panel of the DS foot box mounted high and out of the way of the passenger's feet.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5db20b3127ccee957899ac50500000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150501093045619.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The MSD wiring harness comes out of the foot box top and the wires will go over to the engine and the power and ground directly to the battery.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5db36b3127ccee976afa4bec700000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150517191259593.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5db36b3127ccee9766563be6500000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150518021846918.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The MSD power and ground will be directly connected to the battery via the loom going off to the right along the frame. The RPM signal going to the EZ EFI ECU and the tachometer as well as the switched power from the front POWERCELL have their own loom as well as the connections to the distributor and coil.

Carl

[carlewms]

While I could have avoided using relays for the two fans by using a POWERCELL output with a 25A fuse I erred in the safe side and installed relays to power the two fans on the radiator.

I was concerned that the starting current of both fans might exceed the amperage rating for the POWERCELL (max is 25A)

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5db36b3127ccee976ce537fa800000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150518021851114.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The battery connections are still to be completed.

[David]

Really nice work on your build... I like the level of detail!

David

[carlewms]

Just when I think I am happy with one item another crops up that I want to "improve upon".

I really wanted to have the vintage look on the engine compartment firewall but that modification (basically what Bill D did on his nice 289 build) was dropping in priority in both the budget and in timeline.

So I decided to at least build it so all the "modern" wiring was hidden or less obvious on the firewall...and leave room for the installation of the faux wiring for a later date ... if ever.

First I created a template to cover the engine side of the "horseshoe" area... it covers the kind of awkward looking framing and will hide the wiring behind a removable panel.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5db02b3127ccee97a2e8084dd00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150523221231098.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Since the frame is not symmetrical at this point getting the right fit took a bit of time.

The removable cover, which will use knurled knobs similar to what I used on the top of the DS foot box, to make the cover removable for future changes or if there is not quite enough room during engine installation (Note: I did measure and the cover will fit for sure when the engine/transmission is installed ... unless I really screwed up the measurements).

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5db04b3127ccee96699ad16bc00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150526023055456.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5db02b3127ccee97b1282a48d00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150523221231099.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5db04b3127ccee966a47556e200000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150526023056795.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The wiring to and from the transmission tunnel will now be hidden behind the cover (Fuel Pressure Sensor, Fuel Pump Power, Fuel Level Sensor) and be routed to the rear of the cover. It will also hide the connector for the dash wiring (which has to come into the engine compartment) which is a very functional but ugly part (see below). The wiring that needs to go to the ECU will be routed through the space provided in the FFR DS inside panel where the RF harness usually goes to the engine compartment.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a4cf23b3127ccef7d1566c7e5200000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420141103020606105.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

I moved the EZ EFI 2.0 harness to route inside the dash area. I needed to route the wiring to power the ECU and to control the two fans to the front of the engine. After some over contemplation I decided to route it on top of the 2 by 2 from the DS ECU location to and through the small firewall piece on the PS.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5db04b3127ccee966c2e2564600000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150526023055938.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

This part of the harness will be routed PS rail to the battery and fan fuse relays. I debated for a while about combining the three wiring harnesses (body, EZ EFI and MSD) and decided for troubleshooting reasons and any future changes it was better to keep them separated ... hope this was a good idea.

Carl

[carlewms]

After further contemplation I redesigned the firewall and the cover for the horseshoe so it all sits where it meets about half way up the 2"x 2" crossmember. I did goof up one measurement and one cut which will be hidden behind a wire bundle any way.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5db06b3127ccee963798f86fb00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150527081221919.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The result is a pretty clean looking firewall ...

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5db06b3127ccee962ac4de68700000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150527081225524.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The firewall is now ready for installation as well with the additional support in place for the mechanical linkage. It is amazing how much stiffer the panel ... oops ... I should have said how much less flex there is in the firewall with the DE and backer plate installed.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5db06b3127ccee9635465c69f00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150527081228856.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

There is still a gaggle of fuses for the EZ EFI 2.0 system that I just cannot find an easy way to clean up without major surgery to the harness ... at least they will be stuffed behind the dash but still accessible.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5db06b3127ccee963d810479c00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150527081229559.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

For the go kart phase i may just use sheetmetal screws to hold the firewall in place to make it easier to make any future mods or fixes before moving forward.

[CraigS]

Carl, I would use aluminum rivets even just temporarily. Make sure the mandrel is aluminum also and they are real easy to drill out. Sheet metal screws need to be really small so a 1/8 hole doesn't go oversize.

[carlewms]

Craig,

Thanks ... that is what I will do then ...

Carl

[carlewms]

I am installing seat warmers but am considering heater/defroster. I would like an extended driving season, I live in northern Virginia and I am planning a soft top in the future. Here are my questions:

1. Is it worth the hassle?

2. If so which unit would you recommend?

3. Do any of the units have a way to send warm air to the defroster a alone? does it really matter?

I know kinda open ended.

Carl

[Bren]

Is it worth the hassle?
Well, that depends on how often you'll use the heater. To be honest, it's not that difficult to install as long as you're doing it before everything is finished. I'd say yes, it's worth the hassle to extend the driving season (or at least the hours in the day that you can drive: think early morning or late evening).

Which unit would you recommend?
I went with the Factory Five unit. I asked a similar question and the only response I got was comments like "Why would you go with someone else" and "It's almost like it was made especially for this car" (the sarcasm of some of these guys...).

Do any of the units have a way to send warm air to the defroster a alone? does it really matter?
If you're going with a soft top, then I would recommend the defrosters for sure. You can send the air to the defrosters alone by shutting off or closing the cockpit vents, which are adjustable just like on regular vehicles. But, I don't know of a way to shut off the defrosters without some modification. I modified my defrosters to blow air down into the cockpit, and I made a little slide so that I can adjust and/or shut off air. I've only been on the road for a couple months, so I haven't had a need for defrosters. From what I hear, the defrosters are virtually useless in an open air cockpit, but with the top, the defrosters are much more handy.

[edwardb]

I have only installed seat heaters on both of my builds, and haven't regretted it. Just last Saturday morning, left the house at 7:00 AM for a car show about 20 miles away. It was in the upper 30's, and I think about 42-43 when I arrived. I had on a light jacket, and other than my face and ears a little, I was very comfortable with just the seat heaters. i don't think a space heater would have helped for the parts of me that were cold. Those temps are about our limit. Much colder and the car stays in the garage. For sure any colder and I'll be going by myself with or without a heater, if you know what I mean. :D

But I think the most important part of the question is your comment that you may install a top at some point. That's when a heater and defroster will really make a difference and extend your driving season. So in that case, I would go with it. We don't have any plans for a top.

[carlewms]

Bren and EdwardB,

Thanks for the rapid response. I down loaded the instructions from the FFR parts catalog and put the template on the firewall to see kinda how it would look ...

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5db06b3127ccee963f27347ea00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150527181252704.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Bren: Since you have this version installed ... where does it draw air from?

Again, thanks.

[Bren]

It actually draws air in from the engine compartment. You can kind of see it in this picture:

42209

It draws in air from the open hole in the side of the blower. I haven't looked into it, but I bet you could put a hose on the end of the blower and route the hose so that it draws fresh air, however ugly that might be. I've used the heater a few times already, and I haven't noticed any foul stench caused by drawing in air from the engine compartment. I get much more from the side exhaust than from the heater.


I don't know if you plan on using wipers, but the wiper motor and the heater fit together closely, so keep that in mind.

[carlewms]

But I can see the end in sight ...

I finally decided to establish a common point for the switched power in the engine compartment to hook the MSD, EZ EFI 2.0 and the fan relays to one source from the ignition switch. The MSD and EZ EFI 2.0 primary power and ground have been installed and are ready for connection to the positive and negative terminals of the battery respectively.

http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5db11b3127ccee968b94aa59700000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150530125624575.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I installed a distribution block between the fan relays and the unswitched fuse panel.

I used a Delcity Part Number 80004DL Black Power Distribution Block, 5/16" for the junction box and anything requiring switched 12v power in the engine compartment (except the starter) will be on that distribution block.

The inside of the F-Panels have become electrical central for the engine compartment and, at some point, I will fabricate a cover to hide ... and protect the components (although not required).

Carl

[carlewms]

It's been awhile since I have posted an update on "The Build" so here goes ....

After due consideration of the multiple views on the pro's and con's of power steering I decided to add it now rather than wait until the car is finished. This weekend I pulled the manual FFR supplied rack.

I have reached out Mark at Breeze to see if he has a package that can work without replacing the existing CW water pump and maintaining the FE style burp tank. Here is the configuration I would like to end up putting together for the engine however I would like a Saginaw type pump with its attached or integrated reservoir (to avoid having a remote reservoir and associated piping). I also really do not want all the bling but we will see.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d920b3127ccee9d6f1dd7c9600000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150701132156983.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/
(Source: March Website)

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d920b3127ccee9d7af8fdd9700000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150701132156825.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/
(Source: March Website)

Based on the research so far I plan a 3:1 ratio rack with offset bushings and extensions from Breeze.

In the "let me try to do it better mode", I re-fabricated one of the sheetmetal parts in the engine compartment. The new removable cover in front of the horseshoe eliminates a few extra pieces sheet metal and therefore cleaned up the whole installation. I still need to install the rivnuts along the top and sides to make it removable.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d920b3127ccee9d632dbbd5900000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150701132159684.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I have gotten as far as I can go on the electrical until I install the engine and the radiator. The cables for the chassis and engine grounds are installed on the frame side and checked for continuity. The positive to the starter is now installed as well (with InfinityBox [ISIS} I do not have or need a starter relay).

The negative or ground comes off the battery and is routed to the PS motor mount to ground to the frame. A second cable goes from the that frame ground to the engine to be connected at one of the starter bolts.

Battery to Frame

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d920b3127ccee9d6a91cfd4b00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150701132159181.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Frame to Engine

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d920b3127ccee9d708651c8600000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150701132204422.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Ground Location on Engine

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d920b3127ccee9d6590d7c1200000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150701132201307.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Although not required but suggested by CraigS I installed a 12 gauge ground from the cylinder head to the EFI throttle body mount.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d920b3127ccee9d65f067c1a00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150701132201191.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

If I am getting the grounding plan wrong ... please let me know ...

Carl

[carlewms]

My first attempt at using You Tube to upload a video ...

The engine is almost ready. I want to make the conversion adding Power steering on the DS ... Once I figure out how to do it.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gTNXan_Q9S4&feature=youtu.be

[jrcuz]

Looking good Carl, almost there.

[carlewms]

I still have some sheet metal work cleaning up some edges and the DS foot box (which will after go cart).

The panels also need the scotch pad/wD30/SharkHide treatment.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRr4PvrMIaI&feature=youtu.be

Carl

[2bking]

Nice looking engine and wiring. You're getting close to hearing it run.

And thanks for the help with my Infinity Box Wiring. You saved me a lot of head scratching.

[carlewms]

I did not get a whole lot of progressive work on the car this weekend, and what I did do seemed to take way too much time for the complexity of the task.

The task: Mount the Energy Suspension T5 transmission mount ... Simple enough huh!

The kit from ES comes with all the hardware needed to mount it on the transmission ...that is unless your the Olde Goat Herder.

My first, of several mistakes, was cross threading/striping out one of the mounting points on the DS ear of the transmission. The cause, other than attempting the installation after some Bloody Mary's, failing to clean out the POR-15 on the threads.

My solution: A longer bolt to go completely through the ear from the top. The ones that come with the part are 1" long so I initially tried 1.5" long and ended up with 2" after another mistake.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d934b3127ccee9ca0d3716c600000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150715113754661.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The first installation looked pretty good but I ended up with a leftover part ... In addition to the now worthless 1" screws.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d934b3127ccee9cbb2cc76b600000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150715081347886.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

At this point I decided I better get online to get some help because I was going nowhere fast. I finally learned the role for my spare part which need to be installed between the ES mount and the transmission. According to the information the missing plate preloads the mount below it.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d934b3127ccee9cacf4016d000000050O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150715081351206.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

So here are the final or semi final installed photos ... since I may need to add some spacers to get the right pinion angle.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d934b3127ccee9ca753897c500000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150715081352201.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d934b3127ccee9ca6c7ed71700000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150715115122345.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I also had to expand the holes in the mount to get all to fit. With the addition of the plate I now had to go from the 1.5" to the 2" length bolt ... I think I can get some 1.75" that would still give sufficient thread engagement. A ten minute job that turned into a two hour job.

While looking on the net I became distracted by threads about the proper version of the ES mounts for the engine. Specifically, did I mount the correct mount on the correct side. After measuring, fidgeting and generally worrying about it I decided I have it right but here are the photos just in case;

Driver's Side:

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d934b3127ccee9ca9dfc977500000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150715115122560.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Passenger's Side:

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d934b3127ccee9cb94c976a000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150715115123274.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Do I have all this correctly installed?

Thanks,

Carl

[Gordon Levy]

Yes

[carlewms]

Gordon,

Thanks .. I was beginning to question my sanity ...

[carlewms]

The brackets and pulley from CVF racing arrived and I picked up the power steering pump from Autozone ... so these got installed this weekend.

I did spend most of my time doing some polishing of the brackets and pulleys including removing the anodized coating on one of the pieces.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=puQ_tuWc7-Y

These were taken with the iPhone 6 camera and edited on iMovie on the iPad. I still need to work on capturing the video with less jerkiness and editing but it sure is fun learning something new ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d906b3127ccee9e20887fe8b00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150727121355988.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Plenty of engagement on all the pulleys ... the final installation of the power steering pulley will have to wait until I get back home on Thursday and get the right installation tools.

Lots of Thank You to Jeff Kleiner and others for helping me through the process.

Carl

[carlewms]

When I got home Thursday my power steering rack had arrived from Autozone. This morning I proceeded to attach the FFR supplied coupling and the stop nuts on the inner tie rods.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d620b3127ccee997f9811bc400000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150802001746976.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Remembered to transfer the stop nuts to the new rack ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d620b3127ccee99713541b6400000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150802001937931.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

As I looked over the rack I noticed that PS hydraulic line was missing some paint. Upon further checking it was bent, appeared to be crimped sufficiently to restrict flow and looked like it was not really seated well in the fitting.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d620b3127ccee99720eeda6f00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150802010337596.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d620b3127ccee996f1513b5c00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150802010421180.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The packaging it came in was terrible and the part moved around in the box during the shipment causing the damage. It goes back to the AZ in the morning.

I purchased a pulley removal and installation tool and installed the power steering pulley with mixed results.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d620b3127ccee9974d8b1b9400000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150802001810163.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d620b3127ccee996b9673b4e00000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150802002018577.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

My first installation put the pulley behind the crank pulley so I had to pulled it out a bit. This created a problem .. at least to me. The pulley is about 1/8 in proud of the end of the shaft.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d620b3127ccee996087efaa700000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150802012718007.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The only fix is to fabricate spacers to bring the bracket and the pump out a bit. I may have to also get the inside of the pulley machined slightly to clear the pump.

The fun continues.

[carlewms]

This morning started with a trip to Autozone to return the damaged rack and pinion and I managed to pickup a couple of potential serpentine belts. I found 70" version at Autozone, a bit longer than the 67" I needed. I stopped into Pep Boys and the had a 66" version which looked like it would fit well ... but I will try again tomorrow.

I then took on the pulley to shaft issue. The shaft was only 1 1/8th inches long whereas the the hole on the pulley was about 1 5/16th or about 3/16th too deep if it was to be mounted flush to the shaft.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d623b3127ccee990cb74d31100000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150803012822795.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I did not really want to send the pulley off to a machine shop or try the time consuming task of finding another pulley, but without a milling machine I had limited options ... Meaning VERY limited��. That is until I thought of grinding the boss down on the aluminum pulley using my drill press and a rotating pad usually used with a hand tool.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d623b3127ccee991f676b3d900000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150803012524060.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

First I secured the pulley flat on my drill press using the drill press vice. I secured the vice with clamps. I started with 36 grit which after a number passes ground the boss down ... to the point where I overheated the pad attachment. Being plastic it failed! After switching to a 50 grit pad, I used WD-30 to lubricate the grind keeping the heat down. The second pad survived.

The results ... The new pulley fits perfectly flush with the shaft. The next job was to get the proper alignment of the power steering pulley to the others.

The alternator, crank and water pump pulleys came aligned from Levy Racing so i need to align the power steering pulley to these. It became clear from the mockup that the spacers that came with the power steering bracket were way off.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d623b3127ccee991c332f31f00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150803012528453.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The next step was breaking out the spare washers to get the alignment done but that turned out to be quite a challenge probably to be tackled tomorrow.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d623b3127ccee9906f05520200000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150803012519438.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Here it is summarized in a video:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_xTCagpL64

[carlewms]

Last evening I picked up the the new old power steering rack from AutoZone. This time I had it delivered to the local store and it arrived in almost perfect shape (just a little paint rubbed off one of the pipes).

In my continuing effort to improve my video taping and editing skills I will subject you all to another video ...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5M9Rq7CLXYk

I inspected the rack before I left the store and it was in much better condition ....

The first unit had a PS hydraulic pipe pinched as it entered the right side of the rack. Here is the new one.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d625b3127ccee99c9a1dc07300000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150804103053776.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The input shaft to the power steering rack is different than the manual rack and FFR supplied both couplers. The "Power Steering" coupler is now installed for the second time.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d625b3127ccee99cb090c0eb00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150804103105453.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

I stole some nail polish from you know who ...

I am going to go ahead and mock it up with the FFR supplied bushings but probably order the aluminum offset bushings from Breeze for the final installation. The bushings are rubber encased steel bushings whereas the Breeze bushings are solid aluminum and allow for some positioning of the rack for better performance.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d625b3127ccee99cb4ff41b600000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150804103109538.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

Carl

[Jeff Kleiner]

During your inspection of the rack did you check to be sure that the number of turns lock to lock are actually what you ordered? There have been instances of 2.25 and 2.5 turn racks getting packaged under the 3.0 turn part number and vice-versa. Since they are identical externally it's not uncommon for the remanufacturers to get it bungled up.

Jeff

[carlewms]

Jeff,

Thanks for that tip ... I didn't do it but will do so tonight.

Carl

[carlewms]

I got up very early on Wednesday and finished putting together the finishing touches on the installation of the power steering pump on the engine. I finished the new spacers but quickly found that the screws I had were not long enough for proper engagement on the water pump. Finding "shiny" screws proved difficult ... meaning expensive and long lead times (2-3 weeks).

McMaster Carr had the right sized screws but coated in black oxide ...

(2) Black-Oxide Alloy Steel Socket Head Cap Screw 5/16-18 Thread 6.5"
(1) Black-Oxide Alloy Steel Socket Head Cap Screw 5/16-18 Thread 4.5"

I used a wire wheel to get the oxide off the screws but still have a little work to do on the head to make them completely shiny.

The spacers were fabricated from .5 in OD aluminum tube previously sourced from Online Metals.

Upper: .982" and .628"
Middle: 2.094"
Lower: .834"

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d626b3127ccee99af6eca9f100000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150807121937859.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

In order to install the adjusting turnbuckle I had to split the spacer to get the turnbuckle perpendicular to the spacer.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d626b3127ccee99a331768c000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150807121800997.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d626b3127ccee99a9b6ee9dd00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150807121938672.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I have tried several different sized serpentine belts ... And still don't have the right sized one so that is next.

I finally found a belt that works at Autozone and installed last tonight. (680K6)... Meaning a 680 mm sized 6 rib belt. Here is the results:

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d626b3127ccee99a6d62689a00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150807121804399.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Carl

[carlewms]

Since the parts for the steering rack installation don't arrive until Wednesday I decided to tackle the wiring from the relays to the fans. In order to do this, I needed to mockup up the radiator to route the wiring and locate the plugs.

The first step was removing the molex type plugs on the two fans already fitted to the radiator. I am using weather pack connectors exclusively in any area not completely protected from the environment. The make up of the connectors is pretty straight forward as long as you have the right tools and attitude (meaning you kind of need to be in the right mood for this detailed work).

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d631b3127ccee980e190ea9f00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150810111153148.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d631b3127ccee980a72dea0100000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150810111156442.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

1. Strip and twist the wires;

2. Insert the seals color coated to the appropriate sized wire;

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d631b3127ccee981549f0b2e00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150810111153342.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

3. Attach the male or female connecting pin;

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d631b3127ccee980b1bd6baa00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150810111159415.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

4. Using bent needle or straight nose pliers, get the crimp started;

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d631b3127ccee981f89f0b7800000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150810111201212.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

5. Finish the crimp off with the ratcheting style crimper. No you don't have to use one of these but in my case I found I got more reliable crimps;

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d631b3127ccee98162940b3e00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150810111158583.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

6. Tug on the wire and connector to make sure you got a good crimp;

7. Insert into the appropriate weather pack connector ... In this case a two wire; you can hear a slight "click" when the pin seats in the connector;

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d631b3127ccee981cfd24bb600000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150810111203465.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

8. The seal should also be fully inserted into the connection ... if not it has probably come off the pin and needs to be re crimped;

9. These connectors have pins labeled A, B, C and so on. Note these for future reference when making up the other side of the connection or for documentation purposes;

10. With a slight tug make sure the pin is properly seated;

11. Flip down the pin retainer and makes sure it fully seats. Again you should hear a slight "click" when it does; and,

The procedure is the same for the other side of the connection except to change to the male or female pin as appropriate. In this case, the male pin.

Tools Used:

1. Crimper. You can crimp these pins using a standard crimper but it's a more tedious (meaning two step crimp) and I found it produced a less reliable crimp. I purchased a ratcheting crimper which crimped the pin in one step;
2. Wire Cutter;
3. Wire Stripper;
4. Small Straight or Bent Needle Nose Pliers;
5. Heat Gun if using heat shrink; and,
6. Round Pin Removal Tool. If you put the pin in the wrong spot you will need this tool to remove the pin from the connector.

All this and I still have not got to the mockup of the radiator ...

[carlewms]

I followed the procedure in the manual for installing the radiator with some differences because a dual puller fan Ron Davis Racing radiator was going to be installed instead of a donor or FFR proved radiator. The radiator along with a lower radiator support bar was purchased from Levy Racing.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d631b3127ccee980a5c0eaed00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150810111435459.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d631b3127ccee98053966bf000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150810111435513.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The upper radiator is bolted in with (2) 1.5 in long 1/4 in x 20 socket head bolts with washers and nylon lock nuts.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d631b3127ccee9805f8feadf00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150810111205596.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The lower radiator rests in the lower radiator support bar. It is attached to the frame with (2) 1.5 in long 1:4 in x 20 socket head bolts with washers and nylon lock nuts as well.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d631b3127ccee98192000bd200000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150810111440280.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d631b3127ccee9814d734b5600000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150810111205981.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

In the final assembly I will put some rubber sheet between the support and the radiator per Levy's instructions for installation.

The power for the dual fans runs down the PS of the radiator and under the bottom to the two connectors. Three wire ties will hold it in place.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d631b3127ccee981a48c8a7500000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150810111203100.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Additionally the PS fan is set up with power from the Infinity Box Front POWERCELL to provide manual fan control from a dash mounted switch.

[carlewms]

Here is a video of the mockup installation ...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPA42vYHzeE

[carlewms]

I have been mocking up the upper and lower connections from the radiator to the engine...

I have a Ron Davis dual fan radiator cooling a Levy Racing 347 stroker.

What capacity overflow tank do you all recommend?

Thanks,

Carl

[edwardb]

I have been mocking up the upper and lower connections from the radiator to the engine...

I have a Ron Davis dual fan radiator cooling a Levy Racing 347 stroker.

What capacity overflow tank do you all recommend?

Thanks,

Carl

IMO, 2 quart if you have room. That's what I had on my Mk3 (Canton) and it would easily handle the expansion. I only have room for a 1.25 quart in my Mk4 (Moroso 63766) and it's just barely enough. Both were basic kits, so I don't know what size FF is supplying in their complete kits. That's another option although just from the pictures it looks on the smaller side.

[wrenchhead]

Hi Carl,

Thank you for this thread. I'm about to start my own build #8664 soon, going through inventory right now. I learn a lot form this tread and also from Edward's comments. Thank you both.

Regards,

Yigal
Hudson, NH

[carlewms]

Tigal,

Thank you for your kind words ... These forums and the experience of the builders has been an essential part of my build.

Carl

[carlewms]

The weather was fantastic today at the Olde Goat Garage ...

Two milestones achieved ...

I took the car off the jack stands and rolled it out on to the driveway for the engine installation

With the help of Craig S, the engine and transmission was installed ...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=udD11kbYyi8

Many Thanks to Craig ...

[carlewms]

During your inspection of the rack did you check to be sure that the number of turns lock to lock are actually what you ordered? There have been instances of 2.25 and 2.5 turn racks getting packaged under the 3.0 turn part number and vice-versa. Since they are identical externally it's not uncommon for the remanufacturers to get it bungled up.

Jeff

Jeff,

Craig S and I checked yesterday ... AZ strikes for the second time the rack that was 3 turns was in fact 2.5 turns. Back to AZ it goes. Luckily I had not installed it!

Very Frustrating!

[dallas_]

Really coming along Carl. Looking good.

[carlewms]

I have now returned the second Power Steering Rack to AZ. They got a little hung up on me not having the box ... but came to my point of view eventually.

Here is the killer ... I asked if the could assure me that the third one would be the correct ratio. The answer is a big NO. they blamed the problem on the reman facility and that we can test the lock to lock when it comes in tomorrow or Thursday!

I hope the third time is the charm!

[Gordon Levy]

There are 3 basic racks, LX, GT and GT optional. LX is the 3 turn. GT is the 2.5 turn, GT optional is 1.75 turns lock to lock. This is the one I use in my race cars.

[carlewms]

Gordon,

Thanks for the information ... The AZ guys were clueless relying only on their computers!

[Gordon Levy]

Understand. If it becomes an issue let me know. I have a localRack rebuilder that will set it up with any ratio I want.

[carlewms]

Gordon,

Thanks ... I will contact you if AZ fails the third time.

Carl

[carlewms]

Here is a newbie question if there ever was one ... and I am sure Gordon knows the answer but I thought I would post for the benefit of the rest of us rookies new to engines and things.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d607b3127ccee9a19212c17500000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150826082910193.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

What do i do with this "hole" ... it appears to go all the way through the timing gear cover.

Carl

[Jeff Kleiner]

That hole is for the dipstick tube on some early Windsor applications. The Mustang 5.0 and later blocks most of us are more used to have an "eyebrow" of sorts with a hole in it on the driver's side near cylinder #7 for the tube. Some aftermarket oil pans also have dipstick accommodations. You'll plug whichever you are not using.

Jeff

[carlewms]

Jeff,

Thanks. It is not threaded so do I use a tap and cut threads into the cover or is there another solution?

I am worried that the above solution would put debris in the engine oil pan.

Carl

[rcflash]

get a small freeze-type plug and press it in.

[carlewms]

Although AutoZone has a registered slogan Get in The Zone with Autozone ...they left should take up a new slogan ... We Cannot Get it RIGHT in the The Zone.

As you know I decided to convert from the FFR manual rack to a power steering rack ... the part number for the rack is Autozone or Durmast Part Number 6406 which is 3 turns lock to lock.

The first rack ordered was shipped directly to the house ... it arrived damaged with a pinch in the the passenger side hydraulic line.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d620b3127ccee99720eeda6f00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150802010337596.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I returned this rack to the local store and received a replacement rack ... instead of 3 turns lock to lock it was 2.5 turns.

This rack was returned and today I went to pick up what was supposed to be the correct rack. This time I took a set of vice grips with me to check the turns ... Guess What ... 2.5 turns again ...

I asked for my money back and I was told that since I did not have a receipt (although they had a tag on the box showing clearly who it was for and that I had paid) I was told I needed the receipt to get my money back or credited to the CC. They would give me a store credit (as if I would want to spend anymore money at their establishment). I would understand this if I was walking in their with the rack to return it but I do not understand it when they have the rack AND my money.

Lessons Learned:
1. The staff at the store said that although the part number was for a 3 turn lock to lock, they could not guarantee it so if your considering returning one to get the right one or your ordering a "new" one the odds are not in your favor that you will get the right one;
2. The local staff is pretty much useless when trying to get anywhere beyond the computer screen. I am not blaming them ... they are just not trained correctly;
3. If you do order, do as Jeff K suggested, check the lock to lock before leaving the store;
4. While your at it check to see that there is no damage to the hydraulic lines;
5. Pray that you will ultimately get the right part if you stick with Autozone; and,
6. Order it from one of our vendors who really back up their sales.

Sorry for the rant ... Rant over ... moving on.

Carl

[2bking]

Carl, maybe the stars are aligned in your favor but you just don't know it. When I ordered my kit from FFR, Jason told me to get the 2.5 turn rack which I did. I doubt you will be able to tell much difference between the two ratios. If you think it's a little too twitchy when you drive it, dialing in a little more castor will help.

[carlewms]

After the very frustrating experience trying to get a power steering rack from AutoZone ... I got out in the garage and got to hooking up some of the components on the engine.

The FAST EZ EFI System: The throttle body was installed on the engine. There are only three connections to the throttle body on a returnless installation: 1) The coolant temperature sensor; 2) the fuel line; and the connection to the ECU through the main harness. MAF, IAC, etc are built into the throttle body.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d611b3127ccee9a9ced59a3500000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150830130804651.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

As part of the installation of the fuel line, the pressure sensor wire to the sensor is installed in the transmission tunnel (there is a ton of excess wire for the connector to allow for installation near the tank and on larger cars which I may diet down after I get everything running right).

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d611b3127ccee9a8b2603bc200000030O29AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150830131523081.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D2/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The main harness is hooked up to the ECU which is installed in the DS foot box (the location normally reserved for the Ron Francis fuse box. Shown in the "down" position, it swings up out of the way for normal use.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d611b3127ccee9a82f907be400000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150830132515789.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The connection wandering off to down to the lower right is for the cable for the small hand held device to program the system.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d611b3127ccee9a8d5c8faf100000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150830133242822.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Carl

[Jeff Kleiner]

Nice! I've been thinking that I need to learn about these systems.

Jeff

[carlewms]

I have looked through the threads for information on how to wire a one wire alternator ... and I am confused even more now (probably more paint fumes from the garage).

Here is how I have it wired so far ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d611b3127ccee9a9e1f8da9700000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150831004109511.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Is this correct?

Thanks in Advance,

Carl

[jrcuz]

Carl,
I'm enjoying your build progress, it looks great
PS I think your engine install date might be off by a year
JR

[carlewms]

jrcuz,

Thanks and the signature is now fixed.

Carl

[CraigS]

Looks good to me. Mine goes to the firewall solenoid just above the starter and has a cable to the starter. Same difference electrically.

[carlewms]

I also picked up some Stanley "L" shaped brackets to use for the base for the Adel clamps. This will save fabricating them from aluminum stock.

I drilled out one of the holes and ground that side going on the engine manifold to match the contour where the manifold bolts are located. The six brackets were panted with POR-15 which will be top coated with high temperature engine paint which replicates a raw metal part.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d611b3127ccee9a962819a3700000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150830101449762.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

1/4" 20 1/2" bolts and lock nuts are used to secure the adel clamp to the bracket

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d611b3127ccee9a935c55bf000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150830101513100.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Eastwood's Bare Grey Steel Replication paint gives it the look of an older part while the POR15 protects the part from corroding...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d611b3127ccee9a8de19babd00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150830101450389.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

So far I have the installed the coil, the upper end of the hydraulic line for the clutch, installed the FAST EZ EFI throttle body.

The fuel line to the throttle body is installed and the fuel pressure sensor in the line is installed and wired up. The couplings that come with the FAST are easy to install on the hose as long as you lubricate the hose a little; I used W-40. Here is view of the complete installation (the front of the car is toward the bottom of the photo).

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d611b3127ccee9a9ced59a3500000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150830130804651.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d611b3127ccee9a8b2603bc200000030O29AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150830131523081.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D2/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The hydraulic line from Fortes comes with a banjo fitting at the MC end.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d726b3127cceea5a36bf14f200000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150907104945384.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I feel like I am jumping around to targets of opportunity vice being very systematic in my approach to getting everything hooked up but I am still making progress. Some of this is brought on by missing parts that arrive in dribbles ... cause The Olde Goat orders them in dribbles.

[carlewms]

Saturday I awoke bound and determine to make major progress in the engine compartment...

The 2 Qt Moroso overflow tank, which is quite large, required some thinking (I know dangerous) to get it into the limited space available. The F-Panels are filled with the electronics so that left the only place behind the radiator in front of engine to the Driver's Side (to allow getting to and pulling the battery).

To installing the tank in this location required adding a support brace across the top of the x frame and relocating the horns. After purchasing a 1/8 in 1.5 x 1.5 in at the local ACE hardware, I cut and shaped it to fit over the welds and around other installed items like wiring and the brake lines.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d726b3127cceea5bdd1874f400000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150907110845569.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I tapped the flat part of the frame for 1/4" by 20 thread and attached the piece to the frame. The tank was then positioned to the DS and attached to the support brace using 1/4" x 20 - 3/4" bolts and lock nuts. I fabricated two brackets to provide a little more support for the upper part of the tank.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d726b3127cceea5baafab58500000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150907110846489.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d726b3127cceea5ac9d0547a00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150907110839538.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The support brace will be primed and painted in gloss black to match the rest of the frame.

[KDubU]

That is a big tank! Nicely done getting it installed. I'm looking at various tanks as well but figure I have time before having to order one. There is a really nice one from Billet Specialties but not sure if it's large enough. Great pics, I will learn a lot from your build.

Also on the AZ subject, I've now returned two racks. One for the same damage you had and the second because it was leaking fluid. My third one is awaiting pickup, we'll see how this one fares.

[carlewms]

I chose the larger tank because of suggestions from the forum...some felt a 1.5 qt tank was not quite large enough.

[dallas_]

Carl,
You know they have set the dates for the Texas Cobra Club spring meet right? :)

[carlewms]

Carl,
You know they have set the dates for the Texas Cobra Club spring meet right? :)

I did not but will check the site and add them to the calendar ... thanks.

[carlewms]

Up early installing the horns on the brace installed to support the overflow tank. I aimed them forward for now. While they are mounted higher than before, I am still a bit concerned about water ingestion.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d729b3127cceea45b766ba8d00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150908103331064.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Since I had removed the spark plug wires at the distributor during the engine installation, I needed to make sure I had the right firing order. Levy says it is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 counter-clockwise.

I continued getting the MSD system wiring clean up into one loom to the engine coil, distributor and RPM output for the tachometer and the EFI system.

The loom is routed up the same side as the power loom going to the aft POWERCELL and across to the PS of the engine keeping the DS clear for the mechanical throttle linkage. After routing the wiring to get all the cuts made to length, the wires were wrapped in wire loom and the ends wrapped with self vulcanizing electrical tape. The loom is supported at the rear of the engine on an Adel clamp attached to the engine on a custom fabricated bracket.

Here is the work in progress ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d729b3127cceea45e59dba5f00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150908103335563.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I use the small wire ties to keep things together while running the braided material over the wires. The orange and white thing to the upper right hand corner is from DelCity and makes installing the braided loom a piece of cake.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d729b3127cceea442ac2dab300000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150908103338689.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The ignition system wiring was joined up with the sensor wiring for the voltmeter, oil pressure and coolant temperature at the rear of the engine before being routed forward on the PS to the components and sensors.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d729b3127cceea445c2a5b5000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150908103341422.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The coolant temperature sensor for the gauge is on the DS and the one for the EFI (shown) is on the PS. The latter is wired into the throttle body.

Here are the results:

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d729b3127cceea4443e91b0400000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150908103350763.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d729b3127cceea44c2a95b9c00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150908103353058.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d729b3127cceea451fb8ba0700000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150908103407704.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The day ended after installing the wiring from the starter to the alternator ...

[2bking]

Looking good Carl. I like the harnesses covered with the braid and if I had mine to do over, I would use the product. Where did you get it?

[carlewms]

King,

I started with a Painless kit for an EFI based engine but ended up adding more from McMaster Carr.

Thanks,

Carl

[dallas_]

I did not but will check the site and add them to the calendar ... thanks.

Just wanted to make sure you had it so we can see the finished product. :)

Looking great, keep up the good work!

[carlewms]

I finally installed the Delco multi pin connector in the firewall centerline low enough to clear the wiper motor mechanism and to the DS enough if I ever install a heater or air conditioning. It is ugly on the engine compartment side but it will ultimately be covered with a more period connect fiberglass or aluminum box.
Engine Side

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d729b3127cceea4470485b2400000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150908094335179.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Dash Side

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d729b3127cceea44d62ada2500000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150908094340201.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Reminder: The reason for not just routing the entire harness through the firewall was to allow the harness to be disconnected completely at one spot in case of future engine removal.

I had thought I had the inside panel of the DS foot box temporarily in place but I installed the floor over the tab just below the horseshoe ... So now it is not coming back out. This has created some issues .... I had to expand the hole to pass through the EFI throttle body and the fuel pump power connectors as well as the hydraulic line to the clutch slave cylinder.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d729b3127cceea45e4ebfab100000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150908094340538.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Since I had forgotten to drill all the rivet holes (luckily most of them) were done I had to squeeze in a drill with angled bit holder to drill what I could reach. Installing the dynamat will be a little challenging but doable. I mocked up the inside side top of the DS foot box to make sure the top of the wall was in the right location and to make sure there was enough room for the mechanical throttle linkage post just inside the foot box. The panel is now permanently riveted to the frame.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d729b3127cceea44d14a1bee00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150908094335464.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

[carlewms]

After finishing the box or cover for the electrical bulkhead connector I prepared the wiring from the engine compartment (sensors, etc.) to the connector. After making a paper template and cutting the aluminum sheet, the brake was used to bend the box.

I got a little frustrated because I did not give myself as much slack wire as I should have for the installation so there may be a few do overs to get it right. Here is the mess I am trying to hide. The bulkhead connector is very useful because it allows all the engine compartment to dash wiring to be disconnected at one point...but it sure is ugly. The obvious solution was some type of removable cover that allows easy access to the connector and somewhat looks like it belongs on the dash.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d732b3127cceea4ffe095eaa00000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150913215903517.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The cover was primed with three coats of grey primer and the top coated with 3 coats of Eastwood's Eastwood Detail Gray Paint (Part # 10036) although it really only required 2 coats. The color really comes grey with a hint of copper ... Close to the color of the 289 valve covers.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d734b3127cceea4a20f2acfb00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150916045810902.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d732b3127cceea4e2a7affcf00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150913215905237.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d732b3127cceea4fd4665ed000000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150913215907761.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Three 1/4 x 20 bolts and rivnuts are used to attach the cover to the firewall one on top and two on the bottom. With an 8 inch over hang just the front will actually be seen with the body installed. The wiring coming to the box will go through a hole in the bottom keeping the sides clean. Some molding was applied to the edge facing the firewall and the wire looms were run through grommets.on each side of the cover.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d734b3127cceea4ab74bec9100000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150916045809896.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d734b3127cceea4a922e2d4e00000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150916045809892.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

[carlewms]

New Power Steering Rack from Breeze received and installed ... I just need to get the supply and return lines and install them;

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d700b3127cceea7edf53965500000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150921084924601.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Painted and reinstalled the support bracket for the Moroso over flow tank and the horns;

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d700b3127cceea7f92e9f61d00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150922012929856.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Shined up and installed the Moroso overflow tank;

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d700b3127cceea7e154f171c00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150922012933132.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Reinstalled the horns so they are facing down and rewired them in parallel to clean up the wiring in braided loom and improve reliability (if the wiring to one fails I still have the other horn powered);

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d700b3127cceea7e80af572e00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150922012927095.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Ron Davis radiator is installed permanently .... Well as permanently as anything on these beasts ever is;

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d703b3127cceea7943075e7600000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150922125147877.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Mocked up the coolant hoses/pipes from the engine through the T-Filler to the upper side of the radiator. It was a good thing I had a bunch of hose laying around ... Lots of scraps and hose parts left around.

Coolant to Radiator ....

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d702b3127cceea7b6da987d300000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150923123109408.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Coolant from Radiator ....

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d702b3127cceea7b9cd9c74300000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150923123104621.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Started mockup of the hood hinge assembly ....

Individual posts and photos to follow ... When I get a chance.

Carl

[carlewms]

A video of the completed coolant system hose/tube hookup ... the last bit to do is the overflow line to the Moroso over flow tank.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FoGdAelOuq0

[carlewms]

After finishing the painting of the hood hinge parts the night before (POR-15 plus two coats of Semi Glass Black), I got them installed on the frame per Breeze instructions measuring multiple times to make sure the support bracket was exactly 5 3/4" from the top edge of the radiator support frame.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d708b3127cceea6f3381731800000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150929120432605.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The only real challenge I had was a slight misfit between the flanges on the support bracket and the frame rails (to the front of the car). There was a very slight twist in the bracket and, after measuring, even some differences between the DS and PS rails to the quick jacks

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d708b3127cceea6f3003b23300000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150930012031266.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

There is so much adjustability in the Breeze part I don't think it will be an issue when mounting the hood on the the hinge. The only other deviation from the instructions was adding some grease to the hinge.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d708b3127cceea6e736ad2af00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150930012034117.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Here is the complete unit installed ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d708b3127cceea6fc79f737c00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150929120432359.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

[David Hodgkins]

Th build is looking great Carl!

Quick question: would you like me to move this to the build thread forum? I could leave a redirect...

:)

[carlewms]

David,

Thanks and yes please move it.

Carl

[Jazzman]

Thank you Carl and David! I love Carl's build thread, but it sure will be helpful to have all the build threads in one place. I read them all! Great Job Carl. I hope someday to see firsthand the fruits of your labor!

Kevin

[carlewms]

This is the first day's work on the linkage ... hooking up the EZ EFI 2.0 Throttle Body to the RT Go Pedal

After studying (probably over studying) various versions of mechanical linkage setups on the forums ... particularly the posts by CCRsAC (Chris) on FFCars.com, I ordered the components from McMaster-Carr and Midwest Controls. This was before Mike Forte came out with a nice kit customized to the FFR roadster. The parts sat on the shelf eagerly waiting for their time in build process. Well that day finally arrived!

Here are the items completed before getting the mechanical linkage location planned:

1. Engine installed;

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5ce22b3127cceea12aadfdd3500000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151003231730582.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

2. Firewall correctly positioned;

3. Additional support plate installed on the cockpit side to support the rod ends;

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5d711b3127cceea681e51869500000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420150930113947284.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

4. The DS inside foot box panel positioned and at least temporarily installed;

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5ce22b3127cceea137a6ffda100000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151003231731588.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

5. Throttle pedal installed (in my case Russ Thompson's version);

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5ce22b3127cceea13ad1cbd2100000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151003231731165.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

6. The carburetor or in my case the EZ EFI 2.0 throttle body installed; and,

7. The 1/4 in Ball Joint Rod End installed on the Holley style throttle link on the throttle body.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5ce20b3127cceea17efc10d8400000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151002054311952.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The firewall marked up in preparation to drill the holes for the firewall 3/8 in ball joint rod ends. This part of the process took a while for me at least. I was very worried about making sure the system was positioned to properly open the throttle from idle to WOT (a sweep of about 60 degrees) and not interfere with the other components, air filter and the aluminum panels. Measure twice, thrice and cut once.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5ce22b3127cceea13afb1bd8d00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151003231730039.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The DS foot box inside wall marked to drill the hole for the 3/8 in rod. The hole was not drilled until the firewall ball joint rods were in position.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5ce22b3127cceea13ae3ffd9b00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151003231732289.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

[carlewms]

After waking up at 1:00 am I headed out to the garage with a rested body and mind. After checking the numbers and alignment to the throttle body one last time...

1. The hole for the 3/8 in Ball Joint Rod End was drilled in the firewall;

2. The Rod End was attached to the firewall with 3/8" x 24 x 1" screws with a fender washer on the engine side and a lock washer on the inside. I may eliminate the large fender washer ... It is not really required.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5ce22b3127cceea121a285caa00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151003231804239.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

3. Although I had marked out the position for the hole, cutting the hole through the DS inside foot box wall required another mockup to make sure the hole was going to be aligned with shaft.

4. Using the remainder of the 3/8" shaft and a 2x6 drilled out to support the Rod end on the PS, I ran the rod through the installed rod end. Using a magnetic level the rod leveled vertically, a rule to get it parallel to the firewall and the hole through the panel was then marked for drilling.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5ce22b3127cceea135500bd4100000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151003231759965.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5ce22b3127cceea127e165ca600000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151003231806187.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

5. The hole was drilled with a step drill bit to a size larger than the rod's 3/8" diameter.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5ce22b3127cceea12c2c7dd1900000030O39AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151003231810314.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D3/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

6. The position for the 3/8" Large Ball Joint Rod End was then mocked up by installing the DS rod end on the rod and attaching the bell-crank for to check for clear rotation and movement of the 1/4" rod to the throttle pedal.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5ce22b3127cceea1234c8dd6d00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151003231810900.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

7. Hole for the DS foot box 3/8" ball joint rod end was drilled and the end installed. I decided to eliminate the large fender washer.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5ce22b3127cceea12c70e1c7a00000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151003231813376.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

[CraigS]

Carl, I did mine similarly to you.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91/craig-s/linkagetwo_zpscaaff41b.jpg
I ended up w/ the bell cranks pointing upward and parallel to each other. I wasn't satisfied w/ the setscrew holding the bell cranks so I pulled the shaft out and ground two flats on it.

[carlewms]

Craig,

Thanks for the information. I plan on putting two flats on each end to make sure the bell crank set "screws" have a good solid place to land.

Carl

[carlewms]

While waiting for the left hand die to arrive (it did today), yesterday I looked at getting the drive shaft installed. What I thought would be fairly straight forward ... well turns out to be a little difficult.

The basic kit does not come with a DS so I had previously purchased one from a member of one of the forums. It came well packaged, has the 28 splines needed for matting to a T5 transmission tail piece and was well painted.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5ce24b3127cceea1f196e6f8200000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151005211049093.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5ce24b3127cceea1f709e2fde00000040O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151005211048302.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I knew from online research that the fit was going to be very tight and that I might have to move the transmission down to get the splined section of the DS on to the transmission.

After carefully measuring the distance from the transmission splined shaft to the face of the differential pinion, I found that I had about 5/8 inches for "play" meaning the DS was about 5/8th inches shorter than the distance between the transmission and differential flanges.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5ce24b3127cceea1f5869ae0d00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151005211051592.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I called FFR Technical Support and with the IRS they say that is sufficient play or difference since the IRS differential is fixed in the frame and the engine moves relatively little in the longitudinal direction.

So it looks like I need to remove the frame below the transmission and allow it to move down so that I can get the DS installed.

Any other ideas to consider?

[carlewms]

Now to the vroom vroom part working!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpgzWn0XSvE

[CraigS]

Don't forget an adjustable stop for the pedal. I adjust mine so that the throttle blades open maybe 95% to be sure that my foot isn't trying to break my carb.

[carlewms]

Craig,

Yes. The pedal stop is work in progress. I initially planned the one's like others have done but my rear brake line is just too close ... It's almost in perfect alignment with the pedal so I am creating a bracket that attaches to the 3/4 in square upright that keeps away from that brake line.

Work is going to slow down a bit with travel over the next few weeks but I am shooting for first start on the 24th or 31st!

Thanks for the tip on adjusting to 95% on the throttle blades. I have not even sat in the car yet to get the feel of the pedal either.

[carlewms]

It has been awhile since my last post ... health issues and travel kept me out of the garage for awhile.

I did manage during the period to finish and install a pedal stop essentially completing the installation of the throttle linkage.

Most of the posts in the FFR world show a stop that is mounted to the front panel of the DS foot box ... that would not work in my case because the brake line was in the way so I had to make a bracket:

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5ce33b3127cceea0c0cb68d3700000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151013042040291.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The other lesson learned from the other builders was to make sure the "pad" where the pedal stopped was large enough to prevent the pedal from getting around it and sticking in the WOT position.

I found a bed stand support with a large ... but ugly brown pedal at the woodworking store. After painting it with undercoating here are the results:

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5ce08b3127cceea2e0748798c00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151029190419503.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Parts used:

1/8" by 1" Aluminum Bar Stock (Lowes)
1 Bed Stand Support
2 Nuts
1 Lock Washer

Here are photos installed:

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf25b3127cceeadc993c1b9a00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151105053252821.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf24b3127cceeadfa583e26b00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151105102229071.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

With the pedal at the stop ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf24b3127cceeadfd30b63e800000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151105102229672.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

[Popeye]

Carl,
Nice job! I love seeing these "mini-mods". Thanks for taking the time to document and post it.

[carlewms]

After Bill's recommendation ... i went out to adjust the throttle pedal so that at idlet it was even with a fully depressed brake pedal. It turned out that moving the pivot point of the RT throttle pedal was the easiest route. After moving it toward the front of the car and readjusting the pedal stop ... the throttle is at idle and the WOT is still achieved. The mechanical linkage made it easy. Here are the results which can be adjusted once I go cart ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf29b3127cceeac4d4937dcc00000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151108140202511.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

With the brake pedal depressed (clearly doing it with my hand won't yield max depression but it is close enough for go cart)

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf29b3127cceeac44f3fbc8500000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151108140202498.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Here is a view from the front of the pedals

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf29b3127cceeac5a8955db800000030O29AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151108140202639.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D2/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

[carlewms]

I have searched the forum(s) and get a mixed bag of information on preparing and executing a first start. I need feed back on whether I have got everything that needs to be included:


Verify that all electrical/hydraulic/cooling/fuel lines are clear of any moving parts and the headers
Energize and check all guages for operation
Partially fill fuel tank
Turn on fuel pump and check for leaks
Fill coolant system and check for leaks
Fill Transmission Fluid
Bleed Clutch Hydraulic System and verify clutch operation
Fill Engine Oil
Pre lube engine oil (drill to spin the oil pump) and verify pump pressure
Move car to clear area outside the garage
Position Fire Extinguisher
Position Wet Towel(s)
One person manning the fire extinguisher
One person with the wet towels
One person in the cockpit to start and monitor the gauges



I guess some one should be taking a video for me as well ...

Thanks in advance for your help on this one.

Carl

[carlewms]

The oil pressure sensor on 302 SBF is on the DS just forward of the oil filter. The pressure sensor is too big to fit directly into the location because of the oil filter. A common problem solved by some with brass fittings but I wanted something stronger than brass for this critical part.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf33b3127cceeacce2ee004200000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151112110102389.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Summit sells a Scott Drake Oil Pressure Sending Extension (Part #SDK-C2OZ-9B339) made of zinc coated steel. Before installation it was treated with SharkHide. It came in 1/4" NPT at both ends and the sensor is 1/8" NPT so I had to add a coupler to make the transition.

Here is the final installation with the sensor wiring connected.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf33b3127cceeacc2179402c00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151112112806283.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Carl

[carlewms]

I mocked up my modified parking brake assembly months ago but I had not protected the parts from corrosion .... Now was the time.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf31b3127cceeac1eb0f511800000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151111042759566.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I finished painting the parts of the modified parking brake assembly and put it back together. The parts, which are exposed in the transmission tunnel, were painted with 2 coats of POR-15 and the topped with 2 coats of Eastwood's Detail Grey Bare Metal Replication paint.

The fully assembled parking brake lever ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf31b3127cceeac1e8fe117000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151111042831519.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The modified arms are extended which allows the cables to go above the 4" cross member instead below it as designed by FFR (where it actually rubs along the bottom of the tube).

[carlewms]

After a little work on Tuesday evening I finally got the parking brake fitted on the PS of transmission tunnel. It's a little more difficult to do on with the transmission and aluminum in place ... but with a little work from underneath the car it was accomplished.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf30b3127cceeac2dd01a85d00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151112011017717.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

After reconnecting the cable clevis to the extended arms on the assembly I treated the ends with heat shrink.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf30b3127cceeac39f45094400000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151112011021141.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I installed a lock washer on the clevis pin just to keep it tight against the clevis ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf30b3127cceeac2980469d200000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151112011022330.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The brakes lock the rear wheels with about 3-4 clicks on the handle with plenty of adjustability as the cables stretch...that is until I broke the stops at the end of the cables at the brake (more on that later).

I did expand the opening a little to allow easier access to the bolts and nuts during installation. One aspect of side mounting the brake handle I don't particularly care for is how tight it fits up against the side of the tunnel; on the next build I will modify the mount or assembly slightly to allow the handle to point slightly away from the tunnel side.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf30b3127cceeac2dd01a85d00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151112011017717.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

After getting it mounted I added a small patch to the access and covered the entire tunnel side in Dynamat.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf30b3127cceeac2b162293800000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151112011028041.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

With everything in place access to the T5 transmission fill plug is a little difficult. Like others I decided to drill a hole to allow direct access to the plug with a 1/2" socket.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf30b3127cceeac396e8c84500000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151112011019259.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

During the process of moving the handle to check to see if it was adjusted I managed to pop off the end stops on each cable at the caliper ... a real PIA ... I will have to reinstall new internal cables to make it all work again ...

Carl

[carlewms]

Repairing the parking brake cable ... Backtracking a bit, when I installed the handle assembly and tested it, the ball ends on the FFR supplied cables failed, i.e. popped right off. The Lokar version is much more robust.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf02b3127cceeafa8d6f007800000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151123123723326.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The directions say to install outer housing first and then run the inner wire through outer housing; which is what got me in trouble last time. I gooned up the PS cable on the previous attempt because I could not feed the inner wire through the rather tortuous path to the handle to the point where I could not get the darn thing out of the outer housing. Here are the steps I used to avoid the problem I had earlier:

1. Laid out the cable and removed the inner wire from the outer housing;
2. Installed the backing plate fitting into the backing plate bracket (left loosely fitted)
3. Fed the outer housing through to the cable housing adjuster;
4. Measure the amount to cut off the outer housing; in this case 32";

Here is where I deviated from the Lokar instructions.

5. Pull the outer housing back out of the car and, using a cut off wheel, cut to length;
6. Install the stainless steel clevis on the brake cable ball (I had to expand the clevis to get the ball fully seated);

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf02b3127cceeafaff5e007000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151123123724720.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

7. Lube up the sleeve and feed the internal cable through the sleeve;
8. Hook the clevis into the external brake arm (the arm had to be opened up a little to get it to fit);

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf02b3127cceeafb7171205400000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151123123724465.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

8. Route the cable to the cable housing adjuster (this was a little harder to do);

An Adel Clip was installed to keep the cables away from the drive shaft ....

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf02b3127cceeafa0c50c1af00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151123123730617.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

9. Slide the ferrule from the kit on to the end of the housing and feed into the cable housing adjuster; and,
10. Attach the two cables through the cable block pulling as much slack out of the cable as possible.

Here is what it looks like under the car before the slack was taken out of the cables...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf38b3127cceeaf2c1d36d2c00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151120033029603.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

The brake engages with about three "clicks" on the handle. There is plenty of room for adjustment for cable stretch.

[carlewms]

I headed out to the Olde Goat garage determined to finish up the dash and wiring ... but I ended up doing the following:

I installed 3 mounting tabs on the underside of the dash hoop. One is center lined and the other two are at the ends about 1 in from the end. The tabs were cut from 1 " angle aluminum and one edge trimmed to 3/4" to fit on the dash hoop. After priming, they were top coated with rattle can gloss black.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf25b3127cceeadc41c79a3d00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151105053252164.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf02b3127cceeafb1406e1b900000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151123123723569.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I won't determine the final dash position until I can test fit the body to determine the top of the dash location. For the first start and go kart I will use some Velcro to keep it temporarily ... or maybe permanently in place.

As another step to first start, I checked all the coolant fittings tight and put 2 gallons of distilled water in the system...I need more distilled water. After emptying a gallon jug of water...I now had a container to mix the oil for the transmission.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf03b3127cceeaf8b9c958e800000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151123072847088.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf03b3127cceeaf9e741f93300000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151123072925935.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Gordon Levy recommended a 2:1 mixture of synthetic ATF transmission fluid to synthetic gear oil for the Super Alloy T-5 transmission (2.75 quarts). To fill the transmission the shift lever cover was removed (before filling I cleaned the gasket material off the cover and transmission) and removed the fill plug on the PS of the transmission. Using a funnel I slowly filled the transmission to just below the fill plug and then buttoned it all up with new black gasket maker.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf03b3127cceeaf9323fb9bf00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151123072752531.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Next filling the engine oil ... I put 6 quarts of Castrol 10W40 oil in the engine which, after sitting for awhile was about 2/3rds up between the marks on the dipstick. Gordon recommends switching to synthetic (Mobil 1 5W30) after a couple of thousand miles on the engine.

[carlewms]

When we arrived home the order from McMaster Carr had arrived. While checking the torque on the rear suspension components I found that the upper shock to frame bolt/nut thread engagement to be less than I liked. I ordered some longer bolts 2 3/4" instead of the 2 1/2" currently installed.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf09b3127cceeaed64cacc9d00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151129005517388.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Some have found that the axle nuts backing out particularly the DS; one fix is to install a second nut on the axle as a lock nut. These nuts arrived in the same package and, after the torque on the main nuts is checked, these will be installed and yellow paint on the "lock nut" to make an easy visual check to see if it is loosening up.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cf09b3127cceeaec47bc2d1e00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151129005517417.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I also ordered a tap for the high pressure side of the PS rack to clean up the threads; it worked. I was able to get the high pressure fitting into the rack .... at last. This turned out to be only the first struggle in getting the hydraulic lines installed.

The connections at the power steering pump were made up and I filled the reservoir with about 1/2 qt of Quaker State power steering fluid until I can burp it during first start. The next morning I found the most of hydraulic fluid I put in the reservoir on th garage floor

[DaleG]

The next morning I found the most of hydraulic fluid I put in the reservoir on th garage floor

Ouch!!! Been there too:o.

[2bking]

The next morning I found the most of hydraulic fluid I put in the reservoir on th garage floor

It took three months for mine to dump the fluid a few drips at a time from the remanufactured rack. At first start I had the lines hooked up backwards and blew something internal. I decided the easiest way to fix it was to replace the rack rather than try to rebuild it.

[DaleG]

King, what rack did you end up with? Lock-to-lock turns?

[2bking]

King, what rack did you end up with? Lock-to-lock turns?
2.5, PM sent

[carlewms]

Today I worked on finishing the connections from the firewall side to the dash connectors making some progress on connecting the switched power to the seat heaters and un switched power to the clock, DS and PS lights, the 12v DC plug and the USB plug.

I also got the other end of the bulkhead connector wired up with the existing sensor wires from the engine:

Tachometer/MSD RPM Signal
Voltage (Alternator)
Coolant Temperature and Ground
Oil Temperature and Ground
Oil Pressure and Ground
Fuel Level and Ground

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cc24b3127cceea9f0fa6f6e500000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151206043141734.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cc24b3127cceea9f433ef65b00000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151206043143569.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I also went through all the wiring circuits to verify the connections and wiring diagrams. As I go through all of this again, I've come to the realization that I probably made some of the wiring just a wee bit too redundant ... and therefore complicated.

[carlewms]

After a complete failure trying to installing standard power steering hoses from a Mustang ... I freakin gave up. I had difficulty getting the fittings in the rack , my additional bends in the tubes looked like I had banged the out with a ball peen hammer and ultimately leaks on the actual fitting between the collar and the hose, all caused by "operator error"... All after about $150 in parts that didn't work.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cc00b3127cceeabe228965c600000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151221202139291.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I purchased all the parts from Breeze ... which I should have done in the first place.

The SS hose.... Breeze sells it by the foot.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cc31b3127cceea814ef684e500000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151210141803271.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6df23b3127cceeb510e46762400000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160102221316159.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Two straight fittings were used on the rack end with a 9/16"-18 to 06AN adapter fitting on the high pressure side and 5/8"-18 to 06N adapter fitting on the return side. On the threaded side these have a robust looking rubber "o" ring, i.e. no Teflon which, with proper lubrication before installing and not over tightening, should remain intact.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cc00b3127cceeabebc57e46700000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151221202138046.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6df23b3127cceeb5183b0360c00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160102221316585.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

At the pump end the high pressure side is attached to the pump with a 90 deg elbow on the high pressure hose fitting with a 5/8"-18 to 06AN adapter.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cc00b3127cceeabf8dcc050000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151221202143922.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6df23b3127cceeb519234761800000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160102221316156.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The low pressure return line is attached with a standard hose clamp.

Before leaving on business travel I assembled ... Or at least I think I assembled my first leak proof 06AN fitting. I reviewed every You Tube and forum post I could find on this type of fitting ...well not "every" but a lot of them. More on my battles with the first attempt in the next post.

[carlewms]

With the arrival of the 5/8-18 to 06AN from Breeze I was able to finish the installation of the power steering hoses.

After trying to fit the 90 deg elbows at the rack end .... without any real success, I ended up using the straight line fittings on the rack end. I just could not find a way to get the fittings aligned with the adapters to properly screw them down.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cc01b3127cceeabd36871da200000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151220114201661.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cc01b3127cceeabdba6a9c3900000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151220114159192.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

All the threaded fittings went in fine ...

The clamped end of the return hose leaked immediately upon putting the Honda power steering fluid. The hose ID was much smaller than the connection OD on the pump; I had tried to expand the Teflon and had split causing the leak under the clamp.

Ultimately the only fix I could fine was to strip back the SS braid, heat the Teflon, and then expand and install it while still hot. It doesn't look very pretty right now so I will have to clean it up a bit. It doesn't leak; so functionally it works.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cc01b3127cceeabcb45e3d7600000050O29AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151220114158953.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D2/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

No Leaks after sitting full for the last two weeks ...

[Jeff Kleiner]

You've got it Carl! I've done PS on several cars and used the Breeze fittings & hose on all but the first (and would have on that one too had I known)---can't beat it! Yes, you need to use straight fittings at the rack. I also do the 90 at the pressure side of the pump. Yeah, the nipple on the return side at the pump is a bear. I use a heat gun and tapered punch to slightly expand the Teflon hose. A suggestion; rather than a worm drive type clamp use a fuel injection hose style like this...

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31VWQ4G1pwL.jpg

...they won't "crawl" and cut into the Teflon when tightened.

Cheers,
Jeff

[carlewms]

Jeff,

Thanks for the words and the suggestion. I will pick up some my next trip to the auto parts store.

Carl

[CraigS]

looks like you are getting close. Pls let me know when you plan a start so I can be there.

[carlewms]

Craig,

Absolutely ... I am now pushing for the 16th or 17th.

I am waiting for my side pipes to come back; I still need to work out a time to bring my DS header over to get the bung welded on.

Thanks,

Carl

[ruampy]

I was a big VW guy also. Have you got rims for your roadster yet?

[dallas_]

Coming along nicely. You will like the power steering.

Still on for TCC?

[carlewms]

Dallas,

Thanks. I am registered for TCC and look forward to having my car there this year ... At last!

[carlewms]

The dash wiring has been finally completed ... At least enough to go to first start.

After verifying all the pin connections on the bulkhead connection, the locations to centralize the grounds, switched and unswitched power behind the dash. These terminals are mounted on the inside of the firewall so as not to interfere with a future heater installation.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cc01b3127cceeabdd515dce900000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151220134146164.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The bulkhead connector is to the right of the power terminal.

Ground Terminal: For the grounds I used the same terminal used elsewhere in the car. The grounds required from the under dash switches, lights and clock are consolidated on the terminal as well as the main grounding strap from the dash wiring.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cc32b3127cceea8e87458da100000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151213122355642.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

Power Terminal: For the switched power (powered off the front POWERCELL when the ignition switch is in the "ignition" position) is on the left. The unswitched power (powered directly from the battery via the mega fuses on the PS F-Panel) provides all unswitched power behind the dash.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cc32b3127cceea8e77718ded00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151213122355640.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The connections to the dash are:

1. MASTERCELL Inputs: These connect switches to the MASTERCELL to provide low voltage inputs from all the dash switches except the wiper motor;
2. Gauges: Connects the sensor wiring from the gauges to the gauge sensors;
3. Gauge Power: This provides power for the gauge dials, lights and indicator lights;
4. Ground; and,
5. Windshield Wipers.

Here is a photo showing the four Molex connections; a long ground strap connects to a ground terminal on the firewall. All wires are labeled except the MASTERCELL wiring which is color-coded to their controlling switches on the dash and other controlling components (like the brake light switch).

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cc01b3127cceeabcc3057d8e00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151220134149895.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

All the wires were wrapped in braided wire wrap and labeled with their function.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a5cc01b3127cceeabdce691d3000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420151220134144049.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

The aux dash also has one Molex connector for all wiring going to the MASTERCELL and power for the lights and power sources (dual USB ports and 12V power plugs) and will have a second for the seat warmer switches (to be installed later).

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6df36b3127cceeb76253aa54f00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160118023547913.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

There is enough slack in the harness to pull the dash out of the way for easy access.

Finishing up the electrical work for startup, the ground terminal board was grounded to the 4 by 4 frame and checked for continuity and the DS foot box light was installed and wired up to come on when the door is opened.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6df36b3127cceeb7769a485bb00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160118023545437.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

Please note the "ventilation" I inadvertently provided during two attempts (both failed) to drill the properly sized hole for the large sheet metal I used to attach the ground to the frame.

[carlewms]

Some miscellaneous items completed...

1. The gear shift lever installed;
2. The RT Turn Signal modified and installed;
3. The front suspension greased up;
4. Checking the torque on suspension in progress (the batteries on the torque wrench and went out so it will get finished tomorrow; and,
5. Coolant system topped off with distilled water.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6df36b3127cceeb770432c58300000030O29AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160118023543945.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D2/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

[carlewms]

Thanks to a local CACC member Craig Stuard, the bung for the oxygen sensor is welded on to the DS header.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6df06b3127cceeb62e9ff3cec00000030O29AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160128043520058.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D2/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6df06b3127cceeb621ea1fd6100000030O29AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160128043624504.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D2/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I received the side pipes back from HTC Racing in Wareham, MA coated in "chrome" ceramic that matches the headers.

Their price included shipping to and from their facility as well as preparing the steel side pipes for coating.

The packaging was superb ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dc24b3127cceeb1fa227697a00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160205193049612.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

and the side pipes look great ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dc24b3127cceeb1f56e569c200000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160205193056998.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Carl

[carlewms]

In the previous post I thought I had everything ready to install on the engine ... I thought WRONG.

And herein starts the tale of the two bungs ...

After carefully (we thought) selected the location on the 3rd pipe back on the DS, a friend welded the bung in place. After fitting it on the cylinder head, the bung ended up exactly below the steering shaft and without sufficient clearance to install the oxygen sensor. Damn ... We had not accounted for the tubes shifting up when the header was actually installed on the head. I needed to relocate the bung about 1.5 inches farther down the pipe (so it sticks up between the steering shaft and the 3/4 " square tube without any interference.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dc28b3127cceeb06d3f7ae3100000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160209203657686.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dc28b3127cceeb07a1f70f7400000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160209203703039.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I had to get at least one of the headers and side pipes mounted. The PS was much easier. Here are the results:

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dc28b3127cceeb06be21ee4900000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160209203700174.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dc28b3127cceeb07b6584f4800000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160209203659861.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dc28b3127cceeb0643e7ae6900000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160209203702039.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The next day ... after my screaming in agony ... my friend came over and with exhaust header appropriately on the header we came up with the new improved ... not to mention usable location for the sensor.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dc28b3127cceeb07f4fccefd00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160209203655363.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Well now I have a spare bung hole ... although fairly useless one at that.

So now the tale of two bungs comes to a happy ending.

[2bking]

I think it will make a good place for the zerk fitting to lubricate the exhaust.

[carlewms]

King,

I will have to get it drilled and tapped out before I mount today ... HaHa.

Carl

[AC Bill]

Carl, maybe you could incorporate one of these with the unused bung..

http://www.hotlicksexhaust.com/photos

[carlewms]

Now that would be interesting with side pipes. I could see some interesting applications:

1. If someone got too close to the car ... A press of the button would surely scare them away;

2. Set up a grill on the tip when tailgating to cook the burgers and hot dogs; and last, but surely not least;

3. Rev up and hit the button just as that nice police officer walks by after writing the speeding ticket!

[carlewms]

Last evening I got some high temperature aluminum paint and painted the welds and plug on the unused bung. It doesn't match up as well as I like but it will protect them and make them a little less obvious.

After the well documented problems with the bungs ... tonight I got a little garage time and installed the DS exhaust header (and what a PIA it was) and the side pipe.

My fat fingers had all sorts of trouble with the #8 cylinder screws. The first 6 took 10 minutes and the last 2 took 30 minutes plus. I had quite a bit of cleanup of the copper gasket maker which got in a lot of spaces it was not meant to go!

It is finally starting to look like something that can move ... Swiftly.

[2FAST4U]

Those side pipes look awesome

[carlewms]

Here are the photos I forgot to post ...

The twin bungs ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dc31b3127cceeb0141f99a9500000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160211031452947.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Clearance is perfect ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dc31b3127cceeb007e237bb400000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160211031455669.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Clearance between the DS Inner Foot Box Panel and the #8 cylinder header bolts is pretty small..

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dc31b3127cceeb00b115ba4d00000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160211031452810.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I used the standard BEK bolts but will replace after go kart with lockable versions.

Carl

[AC Bill]

Carl, You know something... I'm beginning to think you just really like using the word "Bung"..:p

[SMV]

Carl, I am also using EZ EFI 2.0 and am looking at my O2 sensor location. I do have a bung on my header roughly where yours is but was told by both FAST and the mechanic who sold me the EFI that I should place the O2 bung on the collector to read at least 4 cylinders, or at least 20" away from the cylinder head. So now I am considering putting the bung on the side pipe, in a less than ideal orientation due to the body.

[CraigS]

My thinking on O2 placement is this. Theoretically in the collector is best but there are a couple of problems w/ that on an FFR. 1- That puts the sensor maybe 30 inches from the head. All modern cars have moved the sensor as close to the head as possible to get it heated as quickly as possible. Yes I know the sensors are heated but look under the hood of your daily driver to see what I mean. 2- Unless you want to see the sensor in the collector, it will be placed well below the center of the collector where it is bound to get condensation running into it. That is not good.

[SMV]

I agree with you Craig. I had read that condensation is less of an issue with the heated O2 sensors. I can probably get an 8 o'clock position on the collector, which is not ideal but will reduce the condensation issue somewhat. What about the limitation of reading only one cylinder with the bung on the header? My bung is actually located 4-5" closer to the head than Carl's. Isn't that too hot as well? I would rather not use the side pipe collector so don't know what to do. If I had planned earlier, I could have had stainless headers make me the Coyote style header with the bung in an ideal location.

[CraigS]

These camry exhaust manifold pics illustrate what I saw over the years at Lexus. This is 2001
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/MC/7956-07137432.html?utm_content=MC&utm_term=2000-2001+Toyota+Camry+Exhaust+Manifold+with+Integrated +Catalytic+Converter+Dorman+674-975+00-01+Toyota+Exhaust+Manifold+with+Integrated+Catalyt ic+Converter&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=CNnlucHk-coCFddahgodU0UCuw
This is 2011
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/7959-05465439.html?utm_content=DN&utm_term=2003-2011+Toyota+Camry+Exhaust+Manifold+with+Integrated +Catalytic+Converter+Walker+16534+03-11+2006+2007&fp=pp&gbm=a&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=CNOj7OXk-coCFQ1ahgodH3kP1Q&ad=47433949212
See what I mean about the sensor getting closer to the head. I don't think you can get too close. Notice also that the newer version sure doesn't look like it flows very well.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I've done cars both ways; in one tube as well as at the collector. Know what? They run great either way! That said though I'm pretty much in agreement with Craig that there will be some compromise no matter which route you go. FWIW, here's where the sensor winds up in the collector to clear the body:

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/Aaron5171/100_3841.jpg

Only visible if you look straight down between the body and pipe.

Jeff

[SMV]

Again, is performance compromised by O2 sensor reading only one cylinder instead of at least 4 through the collector??

[Gumball]

Well now I have a spare bung hole ... .

I never, ever, thought I'd read that on a car forum!!!!!:o

[carlewms]

SMV,

I think the collective answer so far is "no". I have not done my first start (delayed because of the darn weather here in Northern Virginia) so I cannot offer any personal example to tell you.

I will be posting my first start video ...

It sounds like its really your choice. In my case the ECU is located where the FFR fuse panel is normally found so I have sufficient wire to connect to either one if this doesn't work out.

Carl

[carlewms]

I never, ever, thought I'd read that on a car forum!!!!!:o


I never thought I would either ... but when building one of these cars I found that I eat the "never" word a lot.

Carl

[carlewms]

Here is a brief video ...



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHeSucnikbs

By the way ... all lights are LED except the headlights.

[dallas_]

C'mon Carl. Waiting for your first start video. :)

[carlewms]

The first time I energized it I had some issues which turned out to mostly due to some fancy connectors I was using ... which I spent about a day replacing.

In thinking that a better insulated and protected connector ... well would be more reliable, I installed these female versions on every spade type connector on the dash.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dc00b3127cceeb3ef8dfba2d00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160221125011169.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I checked the resistance across the connector ....

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dc00b3127cceeb3e19907bba00000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160221125013278.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Results ... no continuity or between 80-160 ohms across each connection.

While it could be my crimping skills I just don't think I screwed up the crimps on that many fittings. The heat shrink on the errant connectors also contained a glue to spread when the heat shrink was heated. The control wiring for the system is 24g ...very thin and I think the glue ended up insulating these thin wires (specially after it fully cured).

Here is a photo showing the two connectors. The one on the left is the one that failed; the one on the right works perfectly...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dc00b3127cceeb3f717dda1f00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160221125020368.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

After I fixed the connections almost everything worked; things that did not were because I either misunderstood the schematic or got the pins in the connectors wrong. The InfinityBox does make these things very easy to trouble shoot.

Basically the system tells you if your problem is between the switch and the MASTERCELL compute; that the MASTERCELL is communicating with the POWERCELLS and then between the POWERCELLS and the load. I will post more about the troubleshooting tonight.

Carl

[carlewms]

Sunday was supposed to be first start day! ... But Murphy and his darn Law showed up instead.

What a crappy day!

After getting the engine oil primed, the next step was setting up the EFI system and that is where things went south ... Like to freakin Antartica.

The handheld device kept losing communication with the ECU ... and it was doing it erratically. We made it through a setup but we were not sure it made it through to the ECU. We had good spark and fuel up to the inlet of the throttle body. There was not a hint of fuel in the throttle body (we assumed that with all the cranking we did there would be fuel below the butterflies).

Then to just make everything better...the engine stopped cranking. Pressing start button produced nothing but a loud "pop" at the starter. The starter was not hot; the wiring looks fine ... but it is not moving. After checking we found no blown fuses, burnt wires, loose wires or anything externally to the starter but we forgot to check one thing ... The charge on the darn battery. Turns out it was very low and after charging it up, the engine cranked just fine ... But still would not start.

On the positive side ... oil pressure was great, the fuel gauge worked fine (still to be calibrated if required) , voltmeter ok.

I have five days to stew over the solution since I will be traveling for business until Friday night.

[dallas_]

That has to be disappointing after making so much progress. I know nothing about EFI but it sounds to me it is likely the issue is in that area.
I see a picture of your motor in post #351 but not really sure if it's a crate motor or what?

[Gordon Levy]

It's a stage 4 347 we built. I am pretty sure it's an electronics issue but not sure what.

[carlewms]

With a business trip this week ...

A long plane ride plus a couple of Bloody Marys does wonders some times ...

As Gordon said its a 347 cu engine using a EZ EFI 2.0 Throttle Body Fuel Injection System with an in tank fuel pump. I also believe it is an electronics issue.

After thinking about it some more if I am not getting RPM signal into the tack I could also not be getting it to the ECU. This could be the problem; however you would think I would have some sort of error code. Plenty of fuel in the tank.

The other issue could be that I the timing was set wrong ...we thought the #1 cylinder was in the compression stroke when it was in fact on the exhaust stroke putting the timing 180 deg out. In reviewing the manual for the EFI suggesting the following troubleshooting;

1. The injector duty cycle code comes on over 100% duty cycle meaning "the injectors cannot supply enough fuel"; this seems to indicate the throttle body is not getting fuel;
2. Without an RPM signal to the EFI the engine will not run;
3. The IAC wiring could be bad (check red, blue, yellow, black wires from throttle body harness to ECU).
4. Check for for proper fuel flow and pressure; the tank is new so I don't think it is a rust clogging the filter issue, the system immediately starts the pump raising the fuel pressure to the required 43 psig or greater,

Therefore, I think I need to:

1. Get a response from FAST on the handheld problem;
2. Get the handheld to communicate with the ECU;
3. Check to see if I am getting RPM signal to ECU;
4. Check the IAC wiring;
5. Reprogram the ECU; and,
6. Start the engine.

I still have not spoken to tech support yet so all this could change but I've emailed them (I am out of the country right now) when I get home I want to jump on and solve the engine problem.

For you FAST EFI 2.0 Gurus out there ....HELP

Carl

[Raceral]

Is the button on the inertia switch pushed.

[carlewms]

Is the button on the inertia switch pushed.

Not installed with the FAST EZ EFI ... Should it be?

[carlewms]

I got home from a tough week working in the British Virgin Islands ..

After making sure I had plenty of charge on the battery ...

I re programmed the ECU and tried to start the engine ... with slightly better results!

Fuel was definitely getting to the throttle body and although engine did not start we managed to get some hellacious backfiring...it blew the rubber hose caps off the vacuum tubes.

We then rotated the #1 to TDC verifying the position on the crank and the rotor position...

Then we broke off the pin on the top of the coil ... so tomorrow we will get a new coil and try again.

I also checked the plug wires to make sure they were in the right positions ... and they were!

So today getting some nasty backfires was progress in the right direction ... now to get it all working in the correct order.

I am still having an occasional communication error.

Any suggestions would help!

[dallas_]

Backfires mean cylinders are firing at the wrong time. Timing is off or firing order is wrong. You said you checked that but might want to check it again. Getting closer!

[carlewms]

Dallas,

I just picked up the new coil ... BTW that is the same message I got from Gordon Levy and the Traveling Builder Mark Dougherty.

I did check the firing order again and it is correct (1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 counter clockwise). In the morning Craig and I are going to check the timing and give it another shot.

When looking at the boot for the connector to the coil I noticed the MSD version fits tightly over the top of the coil whereas the Taylor did not. This time I am going to use the MSD boot.

[Carlos C]

Besides the timing being off, or erroniously clocking your distributor 180 degrees out, some EFI distributor manufacturers have moved where the #1 cylinder plug wire attaches, in relation to the cap. For example, the cap is stamped with the number "1" on the 12 o' clock position, but in reality, the distributor will fire this cylinder at the 9 o' clock position. This is where the #1 cylinder spark plug wire would attach instead of the conventional position.

What brand and type of distributor do you have? My EFI-controlled 358W has an Accel distributor, which uses this set-up. I've never had a problem with it, and it was expressly noted on the installation instructions how to clock it. Since you didn't build the engine, it may be worth researching with the builder and/or the distributor manufacturer. Good luck.

Carlos

[CraigS]

It was 180 out verified w/ the VC off watching the rockers. I will let Carl fill in details.

[carlewms]

Here is a very brief video of the first start ...

First ... Many thanks to CraigS for getting me through this first start.

The serpentine belt was squealing on the first start up and we had a a few coolant leaks where I used the old style clamps. The fans are not coming on; I am not sure yet if it is a wiring problem or and ECU problem.

On a subsequent run I did get the power steering cycled ... which works fine...I need to snug up the connections at the rack.

I have a very small oil leak at the oil pressure detector and the plug on the oil pan.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THpwqSsgJIU

Thanks for all the support ...

[dougski]

Congratulations !!!!!! Sounds and looks great. Doug

[jrcuz]

Big step Carl! Looks and sounds great
JR

[KDubU]

Congrats! Sounds good.

Okay stupid question, what is the device one of you have in your right hand and what does it measure? Seen it a few times now on start-ups, it is recording temp?

[carlewms]

KDubU ... it is a timing light to check the timing ...

In this case Craig is checking the timing and adjusting the position of the distributor; Once we got the timing right (at least for now) I tightened up the retaining bolt and plate on the distributor.

By the way it was set at 12 deg.

Carl

[Jeff Kleiner]

Congratulations Carl (and Craig)!

BTW, even though I know all is well you're scaring the $hi+ out of me reaching around that belt with your loose sleeve :eek:

Jeff

[WIS89]

Awesome Carl, congratulations!

Craig, way to step up and help! Very cool of you.

Exciting milestone, and I appreciate you sharing your good news.

Regards,

Steve

[carlewms]

Congratulations Carl (and Craig)!

BTW, even though I know all is well you're scaring the $hi+ out of me reaching around that belt with your loose sleeve :eek:

Jeff

Jeff your right and I should have been thinking better than to do it with the loose sleeve ...

Carl

[carlewms]

Thanks all ...

I am now working through the bugs remaining in the electrical and engine controls:

1. The ECU is programmed using a handheld computer (looks like a Garmin) and it keeps losing comms with the ECU; this is caused, according to the FAST Forum,by spikes in the power circuit from the ignition to the ECU and the fix is to put in a capacitor connected to the power lead and ground (on order);
2. The fan override works but the fans controlled by the ECU do not ... this maybe caused by #1 above or wiring by the defective end user (me);
3. The temperature read on the gauge lags considerably the temperature seen from the separate sensor inputing to the ECU ... I think that is caused by the location of the sensor but it is a bit disconcerting to see the ECU at 190 deg F and the gauge still at 140 deg F...I am checking to see if I could wire the ECU input and the gauge input off the same sensor;
4. The Oil Pressure gage dial face is not getting power;

I have the following to do before go kart:
1. Torque the rear wheel axle nuts; and,
2. Fill and bleed the clutch.

Carl

[carlewms]

After getting help from the folks over on the FAST EASY EFI 2.0 forum ...

Loss of Communications between the Handheld and ECU: Apparently the handheld is very susceptible to noise (voltage spikes) on the control power input triggered by the 12V Switched Power (Ignition). The solution is to insert a wire parallel to the ECU to ground containing a ceramic capacitor. Here is the circuit:

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd27b3127cceebd93bf64c5000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160306144432140.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

After installing the circuit the communication error is almost fully eliminated and the handheld is programming the ECU correctly.

Cooling Fans Not Starting Automatically: The automatic starting and stopping of the fans is controlled by the ECU and programmed by the handheld. After getting the communications matter straightened out, I programmed both fans to start at 200 deg F and turn off at 195 deg F. I also discovered that I had under fused the power supplied to the relays; after using 30a fuse, the fans functioned properly during the subsequent tests.

Here is a short video of the engine running ...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAIggrkA_7k

Question:

1. Do I have the correct ranges for the fan set points;

[2bking]

I don't know about your engine but the Coyote PCM turns the fan on at 180F as seen on the water temperature gauge but is sensing the head temperature at a location different from the water temperature gauge. I think I have seen reports that the head temperature runs about 10F higher than the water temperature gauge. The on/off range seems to be about 10F.

[carlewms]

King,

The difference between on and off is preset with the EZ EFI 2.0 system; all you can do is set the turn on temperature and the system then sets the turn off temperature 5 deg below that temperature. When the temperature on the ECU reads about 200 deg F (just upstream of the thermostat in the intake manifold) the gauge reads about 87 deg C or 189 deg F. The sensor for the gauge is at the front of the engine on the DS on the intake manifold.

I just ran the engine up to temperature and took readings to analyze and will post those soonest.

Thanks,

Carl

[Carlos C]

Carl:

I'm sorry that you're having so much trouble with the FAST EFI product. So much for "EZ"... You'd think that the company would have corrected this issue by installing the capacitor onto the harness, or at the very least, provide you with the information, instead of you having to find out by researching on a forum.

On the temperature set points, 195 degrees sounds good for the fan to energize, but a 5-degree spread is not wide enough. Your fan may end up short-cycling on hot days, in traffic, and during spirited driving. If this is how it is pre-set by FAST, have you contacted them to see if that's a parameter which can be altered? If that's not possible, it may be worth to ask them if you can skip this feature from their system, without causing any hard codes to come up, and just go with the FFR thermostatic switch set-up. Just a thought. Good luck.

Carlos

[carlewms]

Here is a more detailed video after some tuning and correcting of the EFI System ....


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAYnRz6quQ4

If you see anything that looks out of whack ... let me know please.

[carlewms]

Carl:

I'm sorry that you're having so much trouble with the FAST EFI product. So much for "EZ"... You'd think that the company would have corrected this issue by installing the capacitor onto the harness, or at the very least, provide you with the information, instead of you having to find out by researching on a forum.

On the temperature set points, 195 degrees sounds good for the fan to energize, but a 5-degree spread is not wide enough. Your fan may end up short-cycling on hot days, in traffic, and during spirited driving. If this is how it is pre-set by FAST, have you contacted them to see if that's a parameter which can be altered? If that's not possible, it may be worth to ask them if you can skip this feature from their system, without causing any hard codes to come up, and just go with the FFR thermostatic switch set-up. Just a thought. Good luck.

Carlos

The FAST company support has not been well very fast ... If you call the technical line you go into terminal hold and they have not responded to my email inquiries.

Gordon Levy and the folks on the FAST EZ EFI Forum have been my savior on this matter.

I have not approached them on the set point matter ... Gordon may have in the past and can pipe in here if so.

I do have a manual fan switch on the dash that I can use to keep at least one of the fans to drive temperatures lower ... which I guess would help on the short cycling.

Below is the circuit for the fans ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd26b3127cceebda12e5f59f00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160307145323016.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Thanks,

Carl

[2bking]

Your volt gauge was showing 12V. Perhaps you don't have the alternator wired up but if you do, something over 13.5V is expected while the engine is running. Mine runs 14.7V.

[carlewms]

King,

Just to be sure I went out and ran the engine ... I have 14v on the meter consistently at idle. I will watch it as I move forward.

Thanks,

Carl

[CraigS]

I think Carl ahs a one wire alternator. Sometimes they need a quick throttle blip to start charging.

[carlewms]

Craig is correct ... I have the one wire alternator.

I also installed a warning light which now appears to be useless on one wire alternator other than to show that I have the ignition on ...

Carl

[carlewms]

Leaking Power Steering Lines ... I have begun to realize that despite my time the Navy, Army Navy (AN) fittings and I just do not get along well. After running the power steering through several cycles, getting some leaks which I though I had cured by tightening, I found the return line at the pump leaking and the supply AN fitting at the pump leaking.

The AN fitting was remade and appears to be holding. The slip on pump side fitting was a slightly different story. I stripped away more of the SS wire braid, slipped on a fuel injection style clamp, heated up the PTFE with the heat gun and got it on the pump (with a whole lot more engagement).

The FI style clamp was suggested on another forum because the inside of the clamp is smooth and does not tear up the PTFE; I added some self sealing rubber tape to the end to clean it up a bit and get a better seal.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd31b3127cceebc0fe4577f800000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160310110814362.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Fuel Injection System: Getting better but not perfect. One lesson learned if your considering an FI system (and to be fair it may not be all of them), is they are EXTREMELY sensitive to noise from the ignition system. While I may still have an ECU or a handheld problem, I took all day yesterday basically moving the EFI wiring as far away as I could from the MSD wiring...running the EFI down the DS of the car and leaving the MSD on the PS.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd31b3127cceebc088d6775000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160310110814171.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd31b3127cceebc0f632f6bb00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160310110819850.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

I also moved the MSD power off the direct connections to the battery and put them on the engine ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd31b3127cceebc0b741374000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160310110817584.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

I kept the 100 pf capacitor in the circuit below ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd27b3127cceebd93bf64c5000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160306144432140.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The system is much more stable now ... but still on occasion fails to connect on startup.

I have ordered the MSD Noise Filter which should also shield out noise but also protect the MSD box from surges (like while jumping the car)

Speedometer: I was getting ready to order the speed sensor and connector for the T5 transmission and decided to see what it would cost to upgrade my speedometer to GPS.
It takes about 1-2 weeks and costs about $110; you ship your current SpeedHut unit back to them and they upgrade it for you. The sensor plus cable costs about $59.00 plus shipping from SpeedHut (less if procured locally). So for the difference of about $50 I figured why not. As soon as go karting is done it is coming out and going to Utah.

Go kart scheduled for Saturday or Sunday ... weather dependent ...

Carl

[AC Bill]

Well?

[carlewms]

Bill here is your answer and a little more ...

While not completely stable it is much more reliable...

Electronic Noise... in a continuing effort to reduce the ignition system noise impact on the EFI I installed a MSD Noise Filter near the MSD Box ....

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd32b3127cceebcf47e87e9a00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160313111741081.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Basically it is a big capacitor and is mounted on the PS Foot Box top ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd32b3127cceebcfcf91ff9700000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160313111745034.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd32b3127cceebcfb9cefff300000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160313114729046.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The main power supply and ground were removed from the battery and put on the alternator.

I also received the connector or pig tail for the Neutral Safety Switch and installed it in the transmission turned. The InfinityBox MASTERCELL requires a ground input from the transmission before it will allow starting the engine. For those not familiar with the T5, here is a photo showing the different connections on the transmission.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd32b3127cceebcebb8bdffb00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160313115656559.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd32b3127cceebcfa30a7e0a00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160313114729241.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

As soon as go kart is done ... the speedo goes off to get upgraded to GPS.

[carlewms]

Your volt gauge was showing 12V. Perhaps you don't have the alternator wired up but if you do, something over 13.5V is expected while the engine is running. Mine runs 14.7V.

King,

The voltage does drop to just over 12v when both fans are on ... Is this going to be a problem?

[carlewms]

Electronic Noise... in a continuing effort to reduce the ignition system noise impact on the EFI I installed a MSD Noise Filter near the MSD Box ....

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd32b3127cceebcf47e87e9a00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160313111741081.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Basically it is a big capacitor and is mounted on the PS Foot Box top ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd32b3127cceebcfcf91ff9700000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160313111745034.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd32b3127cceebcfb9cefff300000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160313114729046.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The main power supply and ground were removed from the battery and put on the alternator.

I also received the connector or pig tail for the Neutral Safety Switch and installed it in the transmission turned. The InfinityBox MASTERCELL requires a ground input from the transmission before it will allow starting the engine. For those not familiar with the T5, here is a photo showing the different connections on the transmission.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd32b3127cceebcebb8bdffb00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160313115656559.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd32b3127cceebcfa30a7e0a00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160313114729241.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

After speaking with SpeedHut I decided to get my speedometer upgraded to GPS technology; the cost is around $110.

[carlewms]

Sometimes I think I am just to plain dumb ....

I went out to check something on the car yesterday and it would not even start ... and I was getting a ground on my ignition circuit to boot. I did some (ok a LOT of ) troubleshooting and thought I isolated it to the ECU start up circuit ... And Then The Light Came On

Earlier I needed to check the torque on the rear axle nuts ... so I had put the car in first gear (as well as set the parking brake). Since I had installed the Neutral Safety Switch ... the engine was not going to turnover no matter what I did with the ignition system. I got all the wiring hooked back up put the transmission back in neutral and guess what ... It freakin started up. I sure felt dumber than a box of rocks.

Carl "Dumb as an Olde Goat" Williams

[carlewms]

The productive work yesterday ...

I torqued the IRS axle nuts to 200 ft-lbf and then checked the jam nuts I had purchased to make sure they were tight against the axle nuts.

The auxiliary dash was installed under the main dash ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd35b3127cceebc99d15f4af00000040O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160314093733728.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The transmission tunnel cover was installed ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd35b3127cceebc89644942f00000040O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160314093738188.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

It fits like a glove ...

The only thing left for go kart is a rough alignment ...

[Jeff Kleiner]

Carl,
One thing that I learned after spending over a decade working in one of General Motors Engineering test labs is that it's all in perspective and how you want to spin it. Instead of thinking of it a dumb move just call it a live verification of the functionality of your neutral start safety system. See, doesn't that feel better :)

Have a good week!

Jeff

[carlewms]

Carl,
One thing that I learned after spending over a decade working in one of General Motors Engineering test labs is that it's all in perspective and how you want to spin it. Instead of thinking of it a dumb move just call it a live verification of the functionality of your neutral start safety system. See, doesn't that feel better :)

Have a good week!

Jeff

You just raised my spirits a bunch of notches... and inspired me to get back in the garage and Get Er Done.... :)

Thanks,

Carl

[carlewms]

The trunk hinges on the Mk 4 as provided by FFR need to be painted or powder coated prior to installation. I also will have a trunk light (wired through the InfinityBox) which I want to have come on when the trunk is opened.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd04b3127cceebe7ff6eb4f700000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160325153252134.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

As I have done before, the parts were disassembled, sanded/wire brushed and treated with POR 15 before getting 3 coats of rattle can gloss black.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd04b3127cceebe64dda156600000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160325153408083.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

After looking at several locations for the switch, I selected the PS hinge and fabricated two aluminum pieces; one to mount on the 3/4" trunk hoop and another to the hinge. The pin or jamb switch (self grounding) is mounted to the fixed vertical bracket.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd04b3127cceebe7834335d400000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160325153246668.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6dd04b3127cceebe6109c559600000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160325153246136.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Final fitting will be after test fit of the body to see how much room there is above the hoop and how far the hinge moves with the trunk lid installed.

Carl

[carlewms]

After a couple of weeks of frustration and ups & downs ... I just decided to go out and see what it felt like to drive this beast on the driveway.

It was simply great ... and a bit scary at the same time...

Here is the video ...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1pxjmMYqZeE

I still have some issues to work out ...

1. EFI: The system is still not working like it should ... some of it may be a noise interference or it may just be a faulty system. The idle started off fine (850 rpm) but by the end of the go kart it was idling at just under 2000 rpm. After I stopped I could not get the EFI system reprogrammed. Update: It turns out I blew a cap off one of the vacuum ports; once fixed it idled properly

2. Belt: Needs to be tightened a little;

3. Power Steering: Cut the spring on the power steering pump to reduce the amount of assist a little and get the steering wheel straightened out;

4. Final Alignment:It was very roughly aligned for the go kart; and,

5. Check Hydraulic Clutch: I was having a little trouble with clutch engagement when I started (as you can hear a couple of times in the video). At the end of the runs it was operating much better with engagement about 1/2 from full depressed;

Thanks to Susan as the camera operator and to all you folks for keeping me encouraged enough to get er done. My buddy Craig for helping me without hesitation.

Anything you all can hear or see from the video please let me know ... I think I was too excited to catch everything.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Congrats on the milestone Carl! At about 1:50 I thought you were pulling into the grass to do some donuts and give yourself a lawn job :)

Happy to know that the goats approve!

Jeff

[ThickCobra]

Carl, I really enjoyed the video as I watched it during breakfast. It clearly looked liked you were enjoying yourself. I am hoping my "go car" stage is not far off. Looking forward the progress on your build.

[GoDadGo]

Congratulations! It won't be long now! Keep up the effort and you'll be cruising all over the place. Congratulations Again!

[carlewms]

Folks,

Thanks for the kind words ... and encouragement. With the summer coming up I am going to finish up the body in gel coat so that I can get it registered and licensed to enjoy the summer.

Carl

[carlewms]

First my thanks to Craig Stuard (CraigS) for doing the alignment while training me on the principles and process. Craig also provided the specialized tools needed to do the alignment.He was very patient with my many questions.

The ride height was set to 4" in front and 4 7/16" in the rear checking these measurements at all 4 corners (near the ends of the 4" tubes).

In my case with IRS we started with alignment of the rear suspension. Having the modified lower A arms with Mike Fortes' adjustable ends makes the job a whole lot easier ... without the mod you have to pull the Heim joints out to make any adjustments (of which there are many in this iterative process). This is a mod well worth the costs.

The shims installed on the rear Lower Control Arm (LCA) bolts were removed after making sure the front LCA were shimmed up. As I understand it this allowed the rear LCA to float until all the adjustments on the A arms were completed. In order to reduce the variables, Craig started with the front LCAs in one position ... the same on both sides of the car. This allowed all the adjustments to be made on the one Upper Control Arm (UCA) and the rear LCA. After several iterations the camber and toe in, both slightly negative, were completed (see table below).

The next step was the front end ... which first required getting the steering wheel aligned with the front wheels and then completing the final alignment.

Since the best way to do this is to change the steering shaft coupling to position the steering wheel on the rack splines, this involved (at least eventually) taking out the rack bolts and washers,

First we tried to see if we could adjust it by changing the rack using the Breeze eccentric bushings. There was a little adjustment but not enough. So Craig marked the position of the bushings with yellow paint for future reference. This left us no choice but to get the rack in position to remove the coupling which on up the Mk 4 is frankly a pain in the butt. Additionally we loosened the bearing at the front of the DS foot box to get a little more play in the shaft along with partially lifting the rack out of position. Craig moved the coupling position to position the steering wheel while I moved the or held the steering wheel in position as needed and inserted the collar back on the rack after getting the rack moved to roughly straighten out the tires. After several iterations these are the final results:

Steering wheel aligned:

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6da31b3127cceeb80d4add3a300000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160410105829396.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The castor (for power steering), the camber and toe in were adjusted and then the tracking checked against the rear tires

Alignment Numbers:

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6da28b3127cceeb8740e1667600000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160410020741758.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

We then went back and reinstalled the shims in the rear IRS LCAs.

Yesterday I reinstalled the steering rack stops to prevent the inside of the tire edge from rubbing on the F-panels. I ended up with 2 stops on both sides with one on the DS being the slightly wider version that is supplied with the Breeze power steering rack.

These photos show the stops installed before covering with larger boots:

DS

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6da28b3127cceeb87c4f7662200000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160410020749504.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

PS

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6da28b3127cceeb877e21e79900000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160410020749492.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Here are the resulting gaps (with the suspension at ride height):

DS

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6da28b3127cceeb87f568a70d00000030O29AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160410020745882.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D2/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

PS

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6da28b3127cceeb87c1c5268a00000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160410020746363.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The last task was painting the inner control rods where the paint was rubbed off.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6da28b3127cceeb87d693e77f00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160410020750261.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Key Lessons Learned:

1. If you have not done this before ... Make sure you have someone who can show you the ropes And explain the process;
2. If at all possible don't take the vehicle to an alignment shop for the first alignment ... unless they are experienced in alignment on FFR cars. The total elapsed time for us was about 8 to 9 hours and Craig has done it many times. My guess is an inexperienced shop would charge a boatload of labor and still not get it right;
4. Get the rear IRS A arm modification from Mike Fortes;
5. Get the Breeze offset bushings;
6. Keep a log of the results of each adjustment. Craig even took photos of the camber and casto results after each adjustment; and,
7. Do all this before installing the body.

Again much thanks to Craig ...

[carlewms]

The location for the Mk 4 license plate light/holder does not provide enough room for a standard plate ... resulting in the plate covering the handle.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6da31b3127cceeb8012fd52a000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160410105832759.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ Photo Source: FFR Website

Jeff Kleiner came up with a great modification to change the internals and the clear plastic cover to give enough room (about 3/8") of clearance to the handle. I also modified the light to use 2 LED lights instead of the 1157 incandescent bulbs. Basically I gutted the bulb holders and their support sheet metal; fabricated a new bracket and the drilled new holes for the LEDs. Here are all the parts before reassembly.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6da28b3127cceeb8710bee73100000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160410020740811.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

The LEDs were angled to maximize the 120 deg light fan on the plate.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6da28b3127cceeb87338626b000000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160410020740806.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

Here are the results and the parts list.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6da31b3127cceeb8128d872d400000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160410105831756.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6da31b3127cceeb81408bf38300000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160410180730296.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6da31b3127cceeb804361128c00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160410180730249.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6da31b3127cceeb80156b939d00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160410183747990.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

Again, thanks to Jeff and the others that paved the way for this modification.

[carlewms]

I am getting ready to start the body work and have gathered or am ordering all the materials ... or at least I think I have ... thanks to Gumball for looking over my list and recommending these items:

1. 3M Marine High Strength Repair Fiber (1qt). Is this the right stuff to use to "glue" and build up say in the mold seams if they are too deep or change the fairing for rectangular tail lights?
2. 3M Marine Premium Filler (1qt); Do I really need this if I am using Evercoat Gold or Gold Ultra?;
3. Evercoat Gold or Gold Ultra (1g) ... which one is best to use?
4. Dura-Block Sanding blocks in various shapes;
5. One Pool Noodle to use for sanding;
6. K-Block brand soft rubber sanding block;
7. Cleaner/Degreaser (1g)
8. Adhesive backed sandpaper starting with 80 grit ... but with so many choices of grits what increments should I get?
9. Norton SpeedGrip Adhesive - 5 min (220 ml)

Other question: Do I have the right quantities?

Again Thanks to Gumball for starting the process ...

Carl

[Jeff Kleiner]

I am getting ready to start the body work and have gathered or am ordering all the materials ... or at least I think I have ... thanks to Gumball for looking over my list and recommending these items:

1. 3M Marine High Strength Repair Fiber (1qt). Is this the right stuff to use to "glue" and build up say in the mold seams if they are too deep or change the fairing for rectangular tail lights?This is what you use for voids, to pack the gap between the inner and outer hood layers after cutting the scoop hole and for bonding things like side louver studs, etc. I do all of my rectangulat tail light filling with Rage
2. 3M Marine Premium Filler (1qt); Do I really need this if I am using Evercoat Gold or Gold Ultra?;I've never had a need.
3. Evercoat Gold or Gold Ultra (1g) ... which one is best to use?I use Rage Gold for filling. For a Mk4 a gallon is plenty. Miller tells me that they'll sometimes skim or "butter" over Gold with Ultra (?) or another thinner product.
4. Dura-Block Sanding blocks in various shapes;I use AFS blocks but it comes down to a personal choice. Here is a good AFS set to start with: http://www.tcpglobal.com/AFSPROKIT.html?gclid=CPXf-9q3kcwCFQcMaQodavUNdA#.VxFI3dQrKKo
5. One Pool Noodle to use for sanding;Sure---when all is said and done you will have improvised all sorts of tools!
6. K-Block brand soft rubber sanding block;As above.
7. Cleaner/Degreaser (1g)PPG MX190 or generic equivalent for a few bucks less(My jobber gets a wax & grease remover from "Refinisher's Choice")
8. Adhesive backed sandpaper starting with 80 grit ... but with so many choices of grits what increments should I get?I use 40 to knock down parting lines and do the initial shaping of filler, then 100 and 150. 240 to 320 before Slick Sand.
9. Norton SpeedGrip Adhesive - 5 min (220 ml)Like with the Marine Premium Filler, why????

Other question: Do I have the right quantities?

Again Thanks to Gumball for starting the process ...

Carl

Good luck Carl!

Jeff

[carlewms]

Jeff,

Thanks very much for the response .. I pretty much have all on order just waiting for it to come in now.

Carl

[carlewms]

I am going to attempt putting on the body for the first time tomorrow ...

I need to determine the position for the dashboard, the height of the rear wall of the Breeze "cubby" and the cutout for the side pipes (I did not have them precut by FFR).

Do I need to have appropriate seals in place to do this?

Or perhaps a better way to ask the question ... do I need to go through the whole body fitting including the 4 bolts in the front and rear, any trimming of the sheetmetal, door installation, etc. BEFORE or can I get enough information from just putting the body on the car?

Carl

[carlewms]

Thanks to CraigS ....

Craig admiring his work ... the body has been adjusted but does not have the weatherstrip or quick jack bolts installed yet.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6da03b3127cceebb96c46da0b00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160422151438022.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Carl day dreaming ....

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6da03b3127cceebb9853e9a9f00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160422151441697.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I needed to get the body on to check the position for the cutouts for the side pipes, the amount to trim on the rear wall of the Breeze "Cubby" and to check dash position.

After getting the body on the chassis we decided to go ahead and mount the hardware for the front and rear bumpers.

Carl

[carlewms]

One of the lessons learned from the go kart tests was the throttle was way too sensitive. After some adjustments including a makeshift return spring and research, including checking the FAST EZ EFI instructions, I found a FAST part normally used to mount return springs on a throttle cable system.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6da05b3127cceeba43274a9e500000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160424112946019.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Three modifications:

1. The bracket normally is attached to the DS of the throttle body with the arm facing aft to attach a throttle cable; in this case I reversed the arm so that it faces to the front to attach the return springs to the adjustable closed circle throttle bracket. This allows adjustability of the tension of the return spring system;

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6da05b3127cceeba49256a99700000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160424112944996.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

2. The mechanical throttle linkage is attached to the upper point on the throttle body actuator; and,

3. The 1" screws that come with the throttle body are not long enough to engage with the added thickness of the bracket so I installed 1.5" screws.

I set the initial adjustment so the inner longer spring was un-tensioned with the larger but shorter spring under slight tension. Final adjustments will be made after another test drive. Here are side and top views of the setup.

Side View

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6da05b3127cceeba4367728d400000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160424112949183.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Top View

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6da05b3127cceeba5a962485a00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160424112944998.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

I decided to give the body a complete exterior cleaning with a degreasing cleaner just to get all the dirt and grime off the body and see how the gel coat really looked after sitting out side for nearly 3.5 years.

[carlewms]

There are several ... many multiple ... things I have learned from the go karting.

Probably the most important was having someone who has driven these cars for a while take it out for a drive or two. As a newbie builder and driver I wanted to have someone experienced behind the wheel to check it out.

Craig pointed out the throttle sensitivity and a problem with the steering still being too stiff. He also validated the braking and tracking.

Carl

[carlewms]

I chose not to have FFR cut the holes for me ...

Here are the photos from the work this weekend ...

Headlights

Headlight template centered. I used the template and the light bucket to make to verify the center and mark the two smaller holes (at 12 and 9 o'clock) and then removed it for cutting.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6da07b3127cceeba0735bd81b00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160426153836160.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

After the cut was made ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6db23b3127cceec50174dd65d00000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160502072201152.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

With smaller holes drilled out ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6db23b3127cceec50204b17e800000030O19AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160502072210026.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D1/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

After the experience it would have probably been easier to use a rotary saw or Dremel with a cutter to cut through the fiberglass (it really was rough on my cutter having to sharpen it three times).

With the bucket ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6db23b3127cceec51767db68900000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160502072212327.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Front Parking/Turn Signals The rubber gasket on the light was used as a template.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6db20b3127cceec5780ee5e1400000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160501152058132.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

After I got the holes drilled for the studs holding these lights to the body I noticed that the studs were not aligned to the tabs on the front of the lens (if that matters to you then you would have to clock these holes to the right to have the tabs line up vertically).

[carlewms]

After taking the informal poll, I decided to install the cap with the latch toward the side of the car clocked a little clockwise to allow more room for the fuel nozzle.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6db20b3127cceec56edd03ec800000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160501144024934.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Although I used the template, I double checked it using the rubber gasket for the Lemans cap ....This time I used a standard hole cutter to make the cut.

I mocked up the fuel filler before drilling the holes around the perimeter to match the position.

Top Views:

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6db20b3127cceec5623b8bff700000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160501144024737.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/:

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6db20b3127cceec569875ffff00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160501144029984.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Side View: Shows there is plenty of clearance with the top open so that it will not hit the body.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6db20b3127cceec56f6337ebe00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160501144024670.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D720/ry%3D480/

Carl