More progress made on the body : )

[Steven K]

The Stig,

It was nice talking to you and your wife at the car show today. Your car looks beautiful! I look forward to seeing it at an upcoming show.

[The Stig]

The Stig,

It was nice talking to you and your wife at the car show today. Your car looks beautiful! I look forward to seeing it at an upcoming show.

Thanks Steve.

It was a pleasure to meet you and your wife as well. I've become more and more amazed at the number of people in the Charlotte area who either own, or are building their own FFR kit. I never know where or when I'm going to meet my next FFR friend. Who knew that a comment to my wife about how the design of the Lamborghini Murcielago rear hatch could be incorporated into the GTM, would open the door to meet another FFR friend?

I like the Cars & Coffee concept to be able to spend some time seeing the cars of the area, and meeting new people along the way.

Maybe we'll get the GTM up there soon. That would be fun...

[The Stig]

s
Lovin' the spoiler and the finished look!

Shane Vacek (VRaptor Speedworks) custom builds these spoilers which he designed specifically for the GTM. I like how it looks on the car. To use it though, you need to put a bit of thought into how you will support it. The stresses of wind drag at higher speeds can cause some flex and potentially crack the hatch where the spoiler mounts to it. Shane also sells a bracket system that bolts to the frame and rises through openings that you'll need to cut into the hatch. I'm trying something a little different though.

Also Thomas 142, has come up with a nice spoiler that looks similar to this, and locks into the fenders at each side. Our buddy Vidal (VD2021), can fill you in on how that works, since I think he is using it on his car.

Take care,

Mike

[VD2021]

Shane Vacek (VRaptor Speedworks) customs builds these spoilers which he designed specifically for the GTM. I like how it looks on the car. To use it though, you need to put a bit of thought into how you will support it. The stresses of wind drag at higher speeds can cause some flex and potentially crack the hatch where the spoiler mounts to it. Shane also sell a bracket system that bolts to the frame and pokes through the hatch. I'm trying something a little different though.

Also Thomas 142, has come up with a nice spoiler that looks similar to this, and locks into the fenders at each side. Our buddy Vidal (VD2021), can fill you in on how that works, since I think he is using it on his car.

Take care,

Mike

Mike,
I feel special....:o

I have one of two versions of Thomas#142's rear spoiler. There is a GEN1 and Gen2 version. Both attach to the top of the fender. The Gen2 is a simple system. The spoiler has 1/4" tapped metal strips that receive a bolt from inside of the fender. The Gen1 version is a combination system that serves as the hatch latch as well. It has an aircraft grade latch over each fender that locks the system down. The spoiler is attached to the hatch with a set of stand-offs. There is a build on the other forum with the Gen1 system that was just finished (body/paint) by Shane (Brian486) and you can see the Gen2 version on my website build log.

[Steven K]

Thanks Steve.

It was a pleasure to meet you and your wife as well. I've become more and more amazed at the number of people in the Charlotte area who either own, or are building thier own FFR kit. I never know where or when I'm going to meet my next FFR friend. Who knew that a comment to my wife about the design of the Lamborghini Murcielago rear hatch could be incorporated into the GTM, would open the door to meet another FFR friend?

I like the Cars & Coffee concept to be able to spend some time seeing the cars of the area, and meeting new people along the way.

Maybe we'll get the GTM up there soon. That would be fun....

I thought she said GTM and I am glad I asked about it. I have had the car for 9 years this month and the number of guys I have met because of it is amazing.
My goal is to get the car up up cars and coffee sometime next summer. With some luck and some time off from work I should be able too.

[The Stig]

There are quite a few people who have been interested in when the GTM would actually make it back to my garage; (Including me)...

Well it finally happened. Jeff brought it back down yesterday at about 10:30. There's still quite a bit of work that needs to be done, (including a good alignment), but in the mean time, here are a few pictures of my GTM.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0954.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0956.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0964.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0966.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0968.jpg

[The Stig]

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0971.jpg
Jeff had the RamLift up in order to get the car on and off the trailer. It would not have made it in without the use of some boards to drive onto, in order pick the nose up.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0973.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0983.jpg
I left the RamLift up in order to get the nose over the initial rise of my driveway. You can see by the space between the fender and the tire, that it picks it up a good bit. Again, if I didn't have this, the car would not make it up the driveway.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0982.jpg
My first "drive".

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0978.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0979.jpg

[The Stig]

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0984.jpg
You can get a sense of how steep my driveway is, and why I was so concerned. In elevation, front the bottom of the driveway to the landing (top) there is a difference of about 20 feet. You guys with similar slopes should really be thinking about how you're going to get up and down.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0986.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0987.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1010.jpg
A quick run down the street and back.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1012.jpg
I love this color. In she shadows, it gets really dark. But the Sun lights it up in all the right places.

[The Stig]

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1013.jpg
I realized after I drove up the drive way (nose first) that I wouldn't be able to get out of the car once in the garage. So I backed out of the driveway, turned around and Backed it in, so the doors would open towards the middle of the garage.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0990.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0994.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0997.jpg
My wife loves the car also. I may have some seat time competition... As soon as I can teach her to drive a stick.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1015.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1017.jpg

I've been asked a few times about how much lift I'm getting from the RamLift Pro kit that I bought for the car. As you can see in the pictures, it picks it up about 2 1/2 to 3 inches, and gives me plenty of room to get up the driveway. This was absolutely Money well spent!

[Kempo]

WOW!!!! Stig, it looks amazing. I love it especially the color and the wheels. Thanks for sharing all those pictures. Post a video when you get a chance.

[fastthings]

I'm happy for you, looks really nice. Your wife looks great in the car, I hope she's excited also. Lets see a smoke show.

[VD2021]

Mike,
Congrats, my friend. Looks like the ramlift is very effective.

[Kalstar]

I am sooooooooooo jealous!

[Cory Brown]

Very nice!! Looks like you'll have a fun winter ahead of you!

[65 Cobra Dude]

Mike,

Looks awesome. Really like the Ramlift Pro - great idea. One question though - how did you get Collins to do some physical work ;)

Henry

[sk7500]

I'm still drooling at the color. Of course a beautiful body under the color doesn't hurt either. The car looks very classy. Congrats..

[mmaragos]

Every time there was an update to this thread, I was thinking "this might be the day"...Congrats! Looks awesome! Now I know I need to get the Ramlift too, looks like it gives a great amount of clearance.

[The Stig]

I am sooooooooooo jealous!


Very nice!! Looks like you'll have a fun winter ahead of you!


Mike,

Looks awesome. Really like the Ramlift Pro - great idea. One question though - how did you get Collins to do some physical work ;)

Henry


I'm still drooling at the color. Of course a beautiful body under the color doesn't hurt either. The car looks very classy. Congrats..


Every time there was an update to this thread, I was thinking "this might be the day"...Congrats! Looks awesome! Now I know I need to get the Ramlift too, looks like it gives a great amount of clearance.


WOW!!!! Stig, it looks amazing. I love it especially the color and the wheels. Thanks for sharing all those pictures. Post a video when you get a chance.

Guys... Thank you so much! As I've said so many times before, I have huge respect for the people here on this forum. So your positive comments truly mean a ton to me!

Pam and I spent some time cleaning the dust off of the car and making it shine! And then I took her for a ride around the neighborhood. The grin on her face said it all. She's having as much fun with this car as I am! :)

Kempo, I'll have some videos posted as soon as I get the alignment corrected. The way it is now, I'd be afraid to drive it more than 30 mph... Soon though!

Mmaragos, I wanted to post some pictures of the lift that you get with the RamLift-Pro. It really helps. And you know, I was in the same boat... About every 2 or 3 weeks, I thought the time had finally come... But it didn't, and I had to learn to be even more patient.

Steve, I appreciate the comments. I can't wait to see your car painted and finished.

And Vidal, my friend, Thanks! I'm looking forward to the time that we can get our two cars together for a cruise, whether in NC or FL!

Thanks guys!

Here are some pictures of it with "clean" paint. Man do I ever love this car!

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1066.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1065.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1064.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1063.jpg

[The Stig]

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1062.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1061.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1074.jpg

[Roger Reid]

Way to go Mike. That is so awesome, I'm jealous.

I would like very much to see a video of the Ram Lift in operation before going up the driveway.

Again congrats.

[ArtGirl]

That's an awesome car Mike. Really nice. And among the many excellent features, I really like the way that Shane's rear wing finishes the car off. Very classy.

[crash]

Really nice.

After knowing intimately what the body looks like from FFR, Whitby has done a GREAT job making it beautiful.

Congrats.

[The Stig]

Way to go Mike. That is so awesome, I'm jealous.

I would like very much to see a video of the Ram Lift in operation before going up the driveway.

Again congrats.

Hi Roger,

I'll try to put something together this weekend. I'm in Ohio until Thursday. Maybe I'll come to the driveway with the nose down, and then lift the car to be able to make the angle.

Take Care,

Mike

[The Stig]

That's an awesome car Mike. Really nice. And among the many excellent features, I really like the way that Shane's rear wing finishes the car off. Very classy. Thanks Ruth. I appreciate the kind words. I'm really looking forward to seeing your SLC when you're done.

Take Care,

Mike

[The Stig]

Hi Crash. I appreciate it. Whitby's did a great job with the paint. Believe it or not, it still needs the final buff. There are a few shop scuffs here and there, as wel as a chip in the leading edge of the passengers side door, where it was apparently opened to wide. But it's nice to simply have it back in my garage again.

I'm finding that it's taking a little time to get my head wrapped around the things that need to be done to finish it. It's quite the list. And I have to get back into the frame of mind to coordinate everything and get things started up again. I've gotten used to having free time to spend with my wife on the weekends... What can I say?

I'm making my lists though. I need to get some parts powder coated, and start my punch list to finish the engine bay. And then start the interior work.

Should keep me busy for a bit.

Take care,

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Wow....Congrats! That looks great! Glad to see you've got it back.

[crash]

Hi Crash. I appreciate it. Whitby's did a great job with the paint. Believe it or not, it still needs the final buff. There are a few shop scuffs here and there, as wel as a chip in the leading edge of the passengers side door, where it was apparently opened to wide. But it's nice to simply have it back in my garage again.

I'm finding that it's taking a little time to get my head wrapped around the things that need to be done to finish it. It's quite the list. And I have to get back into the frame of mind to coordinate everything and get things started up again. I've gotten used to having free time to spend with my wife on the weekends... What can I say?

I'm making my lists though. I need to get some parts powder coated, and start my punch list to finish the engine bay. And then start the interior work.

Should keep me busy for a bit.

Take care,

I have lists of lists.

No joke.

:cool:

[LCD Gauges]

As the cool kids would say, "that car is sick!".

Looking forward to videos/audio of the drive.

[The Stig]

Wow....Congrats! That looks great! Glad to see you've got it back.

Thanks Shane.

I love the spoiler, and how it bridges the gap between those two huge rear fenders.

I really think that it "finishes" the overall look of the car.

More to follow...

Take Care.

Mike

[Rick Williams]

Mike...Really good to see your car home again. I saw it a few weeks ago when I was up at Whitbys to scope out some wiring ideas. You couldn't have picked a better color.

[The Stig]

Thanks Rick. I appreciate it. Understated Elegance as a wise man once said... The look of the car is really turning out the way I had hoped.

Take Care,

Mike

[Stage7]

Looks great Stig! Congrats on getting her back home.

[The Stig]

Looks great Stig! Congrats on getting her back home.

Thanks Roberto. It feels good to have it back in the garage!

[The Stig]

How many have used racing harnesses attached to a harness bar? I have Richard Oben's Harness bar, and I'm wondering whether or not just bolting it through the frame bars is sufficient? Or would a bracket be a good idea to have behind the bar?

I'm also considering either having the bar Powder Coated, or send it out the be Chromed/Polished. What are your thoughts?

[crash]

IMHO...you should make the shoulder belts attachment points as strong as you can. If there is a way to make it stronger with minimal changes/work...DO IT!

But that's just my opinion. :)

[mmaragos]

I thought about chroming too, but it would have been the only chrome interior item...I decided to do a satin black powder coat that blended well. I am bolting through the existing frame, grade 8 hardware...at this point, I am not doing anything more.

[The Stig]

Filters for the fuel tanks:

I saw a filter that Gary Cheney used for what looks like a gearbox breather. I would like ot do something similar for each of my fuel tanks. If you look at the picture you'll see a cone shaped filter mounted to the right hand sided of the engine bay framework. I am looking for a way to allow the tanks to breathe, and also vent the fumes safely away from the car.

I'm thinking of using something like this, unless anyone knows where I could find a charcoal filter that I could vent through.

Also, where is a good place to find the filter that Gary used in this picture? Is this a Summit part?

Thanks,

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/FFR at Z Max Dragway/GaryCheneysGTMEngineBay.jpg

[weendoggy]

You can make an inexpensive charcoal filter yourself by using a 4" yard popup sprinkler, gutted, sink strainer and charcoal for an aquarium. A lot of us are doing that on our roadsters and they work quite well. You could probably hide it from your engine bay for a clean look too.

[The Stig]

Thanks Glenn. Do you have any pictures of that process? If I can make it myself, I'd like to give it a shot.

Mike

[weendoggy]

Check this thread http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/233422-charcoal-filter.html and look at post #5. I made mine similar to this but did some extra things.
1. Take the guts out, go to a pet store and buy a small box of charcoal (usually in pellet type), get some fine SS mesh screen from a hardware store in the sink stopper area and a small 1 1/2" sink strainer.
2. After taking the guts out, check to make sure the sink strainer will fit (I did this in the store to make sure it would), open up the thread top to allow a little extra breathing room (I just used a knife)
3. Cut the fine mesh screen (mine was from a SS strainer I cut from a store bought strainer) large enough to fit in the sprinkler body but not come out the threaded end, cut another one to fit just under the sink strainer to keep the charcoal from coming out.
4. Put the small piece in the bottom, fill with charcoal, put the second fine mesh and sink strainer on followed by the screw top.
5. Now all you need is a 1/2" NPT to hose size of your choice on the end of the sprinkler and you can install. I secured mine with a large loom insulated clamp.

Picture of mine installed.

[LCD Gauges]

K&N makes various types of breathers. The one in the following photo is about two inches in diameter, and can be purchased for about $15.00.

They even come with chrome caps:

http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/500/599/599-62-1470_4.jpg
7023

[The Stig]

I am getting ready to do the alignment on my car, but thought that since I'm doing that, I should go ahead and make the suspension changes that I had been thinking of (at the same time). I don't like pulling the corners apart. Especially the shocks.

1. Have the upper and lower control arm mounts and the Upper Shock mounts relocated.
The Upper C/A mounts moved rearward 1/2 inch, and The Lower C/A mounts moved forward 1 inch. This should reposition the wheel in the fender opening to give more clearance for there rear of the fender. My "guesstimates" look like it should move the hub forward by about 3/4 inch.

This is based on my guess that the uprights are roughly 14" tall. (Guessing because I haven't had time at home to put a tape next to them to measure more accurately, but will soon.) My thinking is that if I move the top mounts rearward without moving the lower, I'm going to crowd the rear of the fender even more. So, in order to get some of the caster that I need, and keep the front wheels centered in the wheel openings, I'm planning to go with the last model pictured.
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/Miscellaneous GTM Pictures/CAMountReworkAngles.jpg

2. Rebuild the arms using Pfadt C5 Control Arm "Poly" bushing kit. (I'm also thinking of having them powder-coated as well, but not sure yet).

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/Miscellaneous GTM Pictures/PfadtC6Bushings-l.jpg

3. The upper shock mount will more than likely need to be relocated in order to center the shock between the Upper Control Arms.
4. Replace all shocks with Penske 7500 dual-adjustable.

5. I want to use Ted Harrison's (LS Man) Anti-Roll bar Kit on the front suspension.
Doing so means that I'll have to give up the custom aluminum Wiper Mount, Wiper Fluid container, which sort of bums me out because it's such a nice piece.
I'm am still kicking around the idea of using a stock corvette bar on the front as well. (But I really like the design that Ted has come up with.)
I can install Ted's bar kit without needing to remove the aluminum panels for access. Just drill the needed hole, and slide the torque bar through.
Everything else bolts on within the wheel opening.

6. I'll be using a standard "Medium" Corvette bar on the rear suspension. Pfadts "JO" Bar. Standard bar and links can be used.

7. Then the alignment and weight balancing can begin.


I think that I am finally about to free up some time that I can start working on the car again. Given my schedules lately, this may end up being a 3 weekend project.

In the meantime, I think I may finally be able to get the registration and plates behind me, and get it out on the road soon. We'll see. I'm just glad to finally have a plan, and some time to pursue it again.

I don't have scales to weigh the car, so I'm looking into buying a set of Longacre (4400 x 1 lb.): around $800.00.
I've purchased the alignment "flats" for toe-in measurement. $60.00
Getting ready to buy a Camber/Caster gauge as well.

Please send your thoughts. Particularly on the C/A bushings. I don't want it to ride like a tank, but I do want to keep the arms "static" so the alignment doesn't move around much due to loads.

We'll see how it works out.

[crash]

You're really going to buy an $800 set of scales to use once or twice?

DANG!

[Fred Brewer]

I wonder how much caster you'll be building in by altering the angle by 1" & 1/2" (option 3)? More than you want? How much do you want? On my upper control arms I moved the balljoint pickup point back about 1" (caster) and in some as well (camber) as best as I can tell I can get 7* of caster and -2.5 of camber fairly easily. Should be easy to get more caster if I wanted (front lower rear adjuster only out 1/2 way). Please keep in mind my measurment devices are kind of crude so your mileage may vary. My initial though might be do 1/2" either way (option 1). I would imagine moving those lower mounts would be quite a job though. Too bad you couldn't machine off a little of the fronts of the lower control arms and the new bushings so it would move forward a bit,, then just shim the backside.

I bet Joel could tell you what you'd be looking at with those new numbers,, maybe he'll post up his thoughts.

I've got VBP polly bushings in mine. Based on everrything I've read, they will probablly squeak after a time. I put zerk fittings in the front lowers as the new bushings are two pieces an hopeully I can get some lube in there where they start making noise.

[The Stig]

You're really going to buy an $800 set of scales to use once or twice?

DANG!

Unless I can find some that are less expensive; yes. I don't have direct access to a "race shop" to make the changes that I need to make, or to scale the car. If I find that I don't need them later, I'll sell them.


I wonder how much caster you'll be building in by altering the angle by 1" & 1/2" (option 3)? More than you want? How much do you want? On my upper control arms I moved the balljoint pickup point back about 1" (caster) and in some as well (camber) as best as I can tell I can get 7* of caster and -2.5 of camber fairly easily. Should be easy to get more caster if I wanted (front lower rear adjuster only out 1/2 way). Please keep in mind my measurment devices are kind of crude so your mileage may vary. My initial though might be do 1/2" either way (option 1). I would imagine moving those lower mounts would be quite a job though. Too bad you couldn't machine off a little of the fronts of the lower control arms and the new bushings so it would move forward a bit,, then just shim the backside.

I bet Joel could tell you what you'd be looking at with those new numbers,, maybe he'll post up his thoughts.

I've got VBP polly bushings in mine. Based on everrything I've read, they will probablly squeak after a time. I put zerk fittings in the front lowers as the new bushings are two pieces an hopeully I can get some lube in there where they start making noise.

Hi Fred. I posted the drawings more or less to get feedback, to find out if my logic is pointed in the right direction or not. All I know for certain is that I do NOT want to cut into the body to grind out some wheel clearance for the front wheels. So I figure that top and bottom arms need to be in the equation. Without having specific measurements of the uprights, and where the dimension of the center-point of the hub is, relative to the overall height of the part, I'm just guessing at best.

There was talk of custom upper control arms that could be made for the GTM builders. But there doesn't seem to be a lot of interest for those who could to make them. Fran Hall makes some beautiful billet arms for his cars, but I'm fairly certain that he is not in the business of creating workable arms for the "competition". You can look in just about any parts catalog, and see adjustable control arms for mustangs: But absolutely nothing for the Corvette C5 or 6.

So, for me, this appears to be the next best thing.

[Fred Brewer]

Hi Fred. I posted the drawings more or less to get feedback, to find out if my logic is pointed in the right direction or not. All I know for certain is that I do NOT want to cut into the body to grind out some wheel clearance for the front wheels. So I figure that top and bottom arms need to be in the equation. Without having specific measurements of the uprights, and where the dimension of the center-point of the hub is, relative to the overall height of the part, I'm just guessing at best.

There was talk of custom upper control arms that could be made for the GTM builders. But there doesn't seem to be a lot of interest for those who could to make them. Fran Hall makes some beautiful billet arms for his cars, but I'm fairly certain that he is not in the business of creating workable arms for the "competition". You can look in just about any parts catalog, and see adjustable control arms for mustangs: But absolutely nothing for the Corvette C5 or 6.

So, for me, this appears to be the next best thing.


I think your logic is spot on,,, and I know I wouldn't want to rework your body/paint,,,, way to nice now. That said,, if you could get a little on the top (back) and a little on the bottom (forward) I think it would help the caster/camber numbers. With a reworked upper control arm like David Borden's you could get the numbers but you may run into the issue of body rub. I think if you can move the top and the bottom equal ammounts the wheel will stay in the same location relative to the body,, right?.

I think moving the lower a-arm forward is the biggest issue. The uppers you could move those back 1/2" fairly easy. I still wonder if you could machine off a bit of that lower control arm. It sure would make things easier. I may take a look see tonight.

[mikespms]

In order to relocte your mounts you will have to remove your front panels, It may be less work and cost to fabricate new adjustable control arms.

[The Stig]

That is true.

The panels will need to come back off in order to cut the mounts and re-weld them (or newly manufactured mounts) back onto the frame. And while the panels are off, I could mount the standard sway bar, and then make the new cuts as needed for the sway bar access and pick up points for the Control Arms.

Either way, I'm going to have to re-work the panels, if I move the mounts.

Take Care,

Mike

[The Stig]

After reading through some of the thoughts and concerns that you guys have posted, I sat down last night, and re-thought this whole suspension re-design.

I re-read Ted and Ron's "Chassis Set-up" thread (for at least the 100th time)... and I think what I will do is change the shocks, slot the upper mounts, add Ted's Sway bar kit (ordered it last night), rebuild the control arms (bushings & ball joints), and add the FFR Bump steer Kit (Ordered it a couple of days ago).

Once I have the parts installed, I'll get the corner weights, and cross balance the car.

I'll see where it is at that point and then decide if I need to do any more. As I've said before, one of my biggest concerns is whether or not I cause the front tires to rub the fenders as a result of slotting the upper arms and them moving back. We'll see.

I'll try to post a few pictures as I go along, in case anyone else might be planning to do the same thing.

[The Stig]

Hi guys,

I promised a video of the GTM getting up and down my driveway. It's a little shaky at times, but I think you'll get an idea of how the lift works. It's supposed to show the clearance at the nose as I drive down my driveway, and then as I drive up the driveway. My driveway is very steep, and as I drive down it, the weight loads up on the front of the car making the nose sit down a little. When I drive into & up the driveway, the nose sits up a little higher, because the weight is better distributed.

After watching these videos, I know for sure that if I didn't have this lift kit, there is no way I would be able to get the GTM in and out of my driveway.

See what you think...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6zmOoMV44vc&context=C3174876ADOEgsToPDskLrNgBnayhBcxSuYI_FRw6E

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSCN0445.jpg
RamLift Pump

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSCN0446.jpg
Ramlift Reservoir

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSCN0447.jpg
RamLift Puck Installed at the lower end of the Shock. The Puck had to be bored out about 1/8" on a lathe in order to fit over the Koni shock sleeve. If you decide to buy this Kit, make sure that you tell Simon, that these are going over the Koni Sleeves. He can open them up for you to use on the Koni Coil Over Sleeves.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSCN0448.jpg


Thanks,

[kabacj]

I think you made the right choice on the suspension Mike. With those changes and some tuning I'm sure you will have a very good setup.

Looking forward to seeing it happen.

John.

[Kempo]

Very cool set up Mike.

[LCD Gauges]

The lift kit is certainly needed for your driveway angle.

What is the tape doing on the front on the car? Tow hook location?

[carbon fiber]

lookin good! i've got some gas money in my pocket... congrats, looks and sounds great. interested in the suspension mods, keep us posted!

[mmaragos]

Thanks for the video! Looking really good - that's a nice solution. My driveway is not as steep but I have the same issue, especially with the front splitter. Without the front splitter, if I am very slow and careful - I can just make it. With the splitter, no way.

[VD2021]

Mike,
Thanks for posting the videos and pictures.

[Stage7]

Nice videos Stig. I have the Ramlift on my SLC as well. I think it's necessary to have it in the Northeast. A half inch could be the difference between leaving your splitter or bumper on the road or having it stay with the car.

[The Stig]

Nice videos Stig. I have the Ramlift on my SLC as well. I think it's necessary to have it in the Northeast. A half inch could be the difference between leaving your splitter or bumper on the road or having it stay with the car.

Hi Roberto,

Is your pump as loud as mine. If you listen to the video, you can easily hear the pump when you run it to lift the car. It sometimes sounds as though somethings not quite right (due to how loud it is as it runs). If that's normal, I won't worry about it. I should probably send the video links to Simon and ask him as well.


Take care.

[Stage7]

Stig, I haven't turned mine on yet, but Allan's is very loud as well. You may want to reach out to him to compare notes.

[The Stig]

The lift kit is certainly needed for your driveway angle.

What is the tape doing on the front on the car? Tow hook location?

Yes, I have a crazy steep driveway... the entry is just level enough to get up onto it, and then it gets pretty steep. I think I measured the steepest angle at 22 degrees before it finally starts to level out at the top.

The tape on the front of the car? I'm not 100% sure. It was left on by Jeff (Whitby's) when he delivered the car to me. My guess is that it's a center point measurement that he marked, in order to line the hood up when it was installed onto the chassis.

I was going to use it as a reference when installing the splitter, but I'm not sure that I really need it so it'll be taken off and cleaned the next time you see the car. At this point, I'm not sure whether or not I'll be able to use the splitter...

If not I have two sets of splitters and rocker extensions that I won't be able to use.

[The Stig]

Hi Guys,

I have a quick question. For those of you who took advantage of picking up one of the Carbon Fiber Engine covers that Shane sells; can you tell me what you are using to glue or secure the chrome strips and FFR Badge in place? I know that there are plenty of adhesives that can be used. I'm just thinking of the heat that builds in the engine compartment, so what is the best for the constant heating and cool downs that take place.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/GTM%20Parts/DSC_0185.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/GTM%20Parts/DSC_0184.jpg

Thanks,

Mike

[crash]

I know some people think silicone has no bonding strength, but that's what I would use. It can handle as much heat as you can throw at it, and it's cheap and easy to use. :)

[fastthings]

double back sticky foam

[The Stig]

I know some people think silicone has no bonding strength, but that's what I would use. It can handle as much heat as you can throw at it, and it's cheap and easy to use. :)

Now that you mention it, I believe that Jeff made the same suggestion. But my short term memory seems to be shorter and shorter lately.

Go figure.

[The Stig]

I was finally able to get outside and spend time on the GTM this weekend. It felt good to get a couple of things done.



Got the Engine Cover set up to go on the car. Had to cut a couple of tabs for the Cold Air intake hoses. Applied the Factory Five Badge, and the Metal Strips.




I followed the lead of one of our friends from the cobra forum (Weendoggy), and made a couple of Charcoal filters for the Aluminum Fuel Tank Vents... one for each tank.




http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fact...al-filter.html (http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/233422-charcoal-filter.html)




Used a couple of 4" pop-up sprinkler heads (gutted), some screen from a kitchen strainer, plain scotch-brite that I trimmed to fit snugly inside he sprinkler body (top and bottom), and filled it with active Carbon that I bought from a pet store. I went to the local ACE hardware store and bought a couple of Brass 1/2" NPT with 5/16 barbed fittings to connect the hose from the fuel tank to.

Hooked them up, and wahlah... no more fuel smell coming from the car.
Temporary mounted until I can decide where I want to put them.






Also disassembled the Custom Hatch Props that I bought from Shane Vacek, and sent them to be powder coated. Supposed to have them back by Thursday.





Wiper Assembly will be one of the next things to do.




Still waiting on a quote for the Shock Package that Ted Harrison and Ron Richmond are putting together. As soon as I have that, I can place the shock order, and start rebuilding the control arms and install the Front Sway Bar Kit that I bought from Ted. I may end up needing to go with the Penske shocks after all, as I really need to get get this done.


I have a punch list of about 25 things that still need to be done, before the interior goes in. But is sure felt good to be "doing it" again...


I'll post pictures of the Engine Cover and the Hatch Props this weekend. I'm out of town until Thursday... :cool:

[The Stig]

I got the Custom Hatch Props back from Powder Coating. Reassembled them in about 10 minutes, and had them switched and installed in about another 20 minutes. The "toughest" part of the whole thing was to drill out the 3 rivets on each side... And then install the new brackets onto the hatch. After that, it's just a matter of bolting them into the same locations that the gas struts had been... Not much to it.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1197.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1195.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1192.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1191.jpg

[Kempo]

Very nice Mike!!!

[The Stig]

Another of the really nice products that Shane has made available to us, are the Carbon Fiber engine covers.

I ended up needing to cut out a couple of slots on the sides to allow vent hoses for the Cold Air Intake to pass through.

I think it cleans up the engine bay really well. I'm happy with how it turned out.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1196.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1195.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1194.jpg

[kabacj]

Mike that looks awesome.

I really like it

John

[LCD Gauges]

Mobile art! :cool:

Lovin' the clean, symmetrical look of the engine bay.

[Radkat]

Stig,
Your car is impressive! Congratulations on such a beautiful outcome!
Radkat



Another of the really nice products that Shane has made available to us, are the Carbon Fiber engine covers.

I ended up needing to cut out a couple of slots on the sides to allow vent hoses for the Cold Air Intake to pass through.

I think it cleans up the engine bay really well. I'm happy with how it turned out.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1196.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1195.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1194.jpg

[sk7500]

Hope our car comes out half that nice. Beautiful!

[mmaragos]

OK! I am inspired to get off my butt and go get dusty today. :D

[carbon fiber]

looks great mike. hope to get a ride when you get it finished. i'm going to be at the charlotte auto fair w/ cf door panel display in april. should be advertising here then, but you could see in person at the auto fair if you're interested. keep up the good work!

[The Stig]

Very nice Mike!!!


Mobile art! :cool:

Lovin' the clean, symmetrical look of the engine bay.


Mike that looks awesome.

I really like it

John


Stig,
Your car is impressive! Congratulations on such a beautiful outcome!
Radkat


Hope our car comes out half that nice. Beautiful!


OK! I am inspired to get off my butt and go get dusty today. :D

Wow, Thanks Guys... I wasn't expecting that. It's been nice to have time to spend in the Garage working on the car again.

I'm trying my best to work through the list of things that I need to do in order to finish it up, and get it to the Charlotte Autofair this year.

I got a few of them checked off yesterday. I'm working on installing the windshield wiper and the rear hatch latch and cable this afternoon.

On paper it looks like I'll be done soon. But it also seems that the list grows as I check off another item finished... Go figure.

[The Stig]

looks great mike. hope to get a ride when you get it finished. i'm going to be at the charlotte auto fair w/ cf door panel display in april. should be advertising here then, but you could see in person at the auto fair if you're interested. keep up the good work!

Hey Buddy. Yes I am definitely interested in seeing what you have in person. From what I can tell from the pictures that you've posted along the way, you're coming up with some beautiful pieces for the interiors of these cars.

I'm also working hard towards having my car ready to show at the Autofair. So hopefully it'll be there for you to take a look at. Once I'm done with it, I'd be happy to take you out in it.

[VD2021]

Mike,

Nice..!

[The Stig]

David Borden was in the NC area doing a little moto-x riding with Gary Cheney and friends. Dave stayed with us during the weekend, and graciously offered to help with whatever I needed the most help with on the GTM. And since the correct alignment of the Doors and Windows was way up on my list, we tackled that. After a couple of days working on them, they're finally lined up and fitting the way they should.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/Miscellaneous GTM Pictures/DSC_1392.jpg

I can't thank David enough. Getting this done, is huge progress in my opinion.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/Miscellaneous GTM Pictures/DSC_1391.jpg

After years of talking on the the forum and various phone conversations, it was great to finally meet you. As I mentioned before, you (and Mary) are welcomed here any time.

[WIS89]

Mike-

The car really does look fantastic, and I would like to steal one of the comments from above; it looks like a rolling work of art!

Congratulations on a really beautiful build. You must feel extremely proud of how it turned out! Well done!!

Regards,

Steve

[LCD Gauges]

May I offer a suggestion:

The intake tubing is very close to the exhaust. Do you have plans to install a heat shield, or wrap the tubes? I'd be a little concerned about intake air heating. Maybe it's not that bad, but I'd recommend monitoring the air temps using IAT/HP Tuners.

Intake Air Heating = detonation prone cylinder charge, as well as less density for power.

[The Stig]

May I offer a suggestion:

The intake tubing is very close to the exhaust. Do you have plans to install a heat shield, or wrap the tubes? I'd be a little concerned about intake air heating. Maybe it's not that bad, but I'd recommend monitoring the air temps using IAT/HP Tuners.

Intake Air Heating = detonation prone cylinder charge, as well as less density for power.

I really haven't seen where wrapping the intake tubes was needed. I've ceramic coated the entire exhaust inside and out. It really isn't retaining huge heat. It gets warm, but not so much that it overwhelms the cold air intake. But, now that you've mentioned it, I can see where it makes sense to consider it.

[The Stig]

Mike-

The car really does look fantastic, and I would like to steal one of the comments from above; it looks like a rolling work of art!

Congratulations on a really beautiful build. You must feel extremely proud of how it turned out! Well done!!

Regards,

Steve

Thank you Steve. I really appreciate the positive comments. But there is still a bit to do yet. I do have to say, though, that I was really stoked to have Dave Borden's help with getting the doors and windows aligned correctly. I still have a little to do with them, but they're hanging perfectly, and the windows are sealing well with the upper weather strip.

And you're right; I am proud of the work that has been done so far on the build. Every time I see it, seems like the first time seeing it.

It is just the coolest design. The other side of the coin is the frustration of being so close, but not able to drive it on the streets yet...

It's getting closer though. And I think I'm starting to get excited about working on it again. (Went through a bit of a period where I couldn't have cared less about getting out in the garage to work on it).

If you're in the area, feel free to come by to take a look.

[ehansen007]

Looking good Stig! That paint is amazing. Are you going with the rear wing?

[The Stig]

Looking good Stig! That paint is amazing. Are you going with the rear wing?

Thanks.

Yes, I'm using Shane's custom wing on the car.

The design goes more along with my style than the race wing. And I really like how it "bridges" the rear fenders.

Shane really did some nice work with this design...

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1067.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1061.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0994.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0987.jpg

As I keep saying, "It's getting there".

[The Stig]

Now I have to find some way to get that hatch (and the glass) to sit down into the body the way it should.

The glass stands almost entirely above the line of the roof and side "pillars" of the body. I realize that there is no way to make it perfect, but I've never seen it sit so high on any of the other GTMs.

I'll start by trying to adjust the hinges and brackets a bit, to get the front to come down closer to the roof line. The last resort, would be to re-work the body and have to repaint. I certainly don't wont to go there if I don't have to.

I've been following Gene's "fastthings" YouTube videos of his build, and have been blown away by the incredible work he has done on the body of his car. Particularly with the doors, windows, and hatch. Seeing his videos is what makes me feel that some re-work may be in store for the body, if the glass is ever going to fit flush.

[fastthings]

Thanks MIke,
you may want to just be happy with the way it is. It would be alot of work to redo the whole thing. The only thing I would do at this point is maybe cut off the surface that the seal sets on, assuming that it is what kepping it from going down the way you want. Then the only thing you would have to do is touch up the inside lip, not touching the outside surface at all.

Meaning reglass a new lower lip for the hatch to rest on, without getting into the main surface of the car. If you get into the main surface you might as well get out the grinder and redo the whole thing, I would not want to do that. I wish you could be happy with the way it is, it looks sharp. If not I understand completely.

Happy to help, if I can
Gene

One more thing, does the opening fit the contour of the body? If not you may just leave it alone. It would do no good to drop it down if the hole is not big enough for the glass.

[The Stig]

Thanks MIke,
you may want to just be happy with the way it is. It would be alot of work to redo the whole thing. The only thing I would do at this point is maybe cut off the surface that the seal sets on, assuming that it is what kepping it from going down the way you want. Then the only thing you would have to do is touch up the inside lip, not touching the outside surface at all.

Meaning reglass a new lower lip for the hatch to rest on, without getting into the main surface of the car. If you get into the main surface you might as well get out the grinder and redo the whole thing, I would not want to do that. I wish you could be happy with the way it is, it looks sharp. If not I understand completely.

Happy to help, if I can
Gene

One more thing, does the opening fit the contour of the body? If not you may just leave it alone. It would do no good to drop it down if the hole is not big enough for the glass.

I think it's the typical story... The closer you are to something, the more you notice and "see" that you just can't let go of. You mentioned the exact thing that I figure would need to be done. Cut out the lip and re-glass a new lip that sits 3/8" lower. The opening was cut/ground out in order to allow the glass to fit. The gap is fine. It just doesn't sit into the opening the way I expected. It could be the amount of adhesive that was used in the channel. I know the adhesive in the rear quarter windows is pretty thick at the leading edge, and they sit up a little as well.

[Kalstar]

David Borden was in the NC area doing a little moto-x riding with Gary Cheney and friends. Dave stayed with us during the weekend, and graciously offered to help with whatever I needed the most help with on the GTM. And since the correct alignment of the Doors and Windows was way up on my list, we tackled that. After a couple of days working on them, they're finally lined up and fitting the way they should.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/Miscellaneous GTM Pictures/DSC_1392.jpg

I can't thank David enough. Getting this done, is huge progress in my opinion.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/Miscellaneous GTM Pictures/DSC_1391.jpg

After years of talking on the the forum and various phone conversations, it was great to finally meet you. As I mentioned before, you (and Mary) are welcomed here any time.


Anyone else see that David looks a little like Andy Dick? Just saying.

Sig, your car really looks beautiful. You should be very proud of yourself!

[The Stig]

I made this comment over in Hugo's (Kempo) thread after seeing the pictures of the progress that he's making with the interior of his car. It just occured to me that there is a growing list of extremely nice GTM's that will likely finish up at about the same time.

It would be awesome to be able to put some sort of Factory GTM Owners meet together. I know that there is the Open house that FFR holds each year, and I'm planning to be there with my car. But it would be very cool to do something more centralized so that more people could take part. It would be great to be able to have so many GTM's in one place, so we could all finally meet each other. Maybe not just GTM's, but all of the various FFR cars.

I've been fortunate enough to have been able to meet and become friends with Alan Uzwiak, Gary Cheney, David Borden, and even Dave Smith & Jim Schenk of the FFR/GTM world. They're all great people, and I feel that there are many other great people to meet in our small but growing circle of builders. I truly feel that the friendships made here mean as much as the cars that we're building. In a lot of ways, the cars are really just the "added bonus".

I've been working to simply get my car "finished", much less meet another self imposed deadline. But this is a thought that has been bouncing around in my head since last years open house at Factory Five.

It might be something to think about anyway.

Thanks,

Mike

[kabacj]

It would be awesome to be able to put some sort of Factory GTM Owners meet together.

Sounds like a great idea Mike.

I will be at the open house, hopefully my car will be there too. Sadly, it seems like every part I order is expected to arrive just in time for the next build step, but arrives weeks or months or years late. I’m not complaining as that’s part of this process, but those self imposed deadlines just continue to pass.

What a sight to see 5 or 10 GTMs all parading around. It would be good to coordinate our meeting with a regional event, car show, or race so we have plenty of spectators :)

I have never seen a GTM driving on the street. I only know of one finished car on Long Island. I am not sure what the finished GTM count is these days, but I am pretty sure that there are less than 150 cars running and driving. If we get 15 owners together we have a GTM Concours d'Elegance.


Im in.

John

[The Stig]

That's exactly what I'm thinking. :cool:

We should really try to make it happen at some point. Hopefully sooner than later...

[The Stig]

Does anyone know where to source a set of 4 dash vents that will fit the GTM, that are black with chrome rings? I am looking for 4 or 6 of them. And the only ones I've found so far are for the Lamborghini Murcielago P640, and the guy wants 150.00 ea for them.

Thanks.

[David]

Hey Mike, Just wanted to thank you again for the hospitality. It was wonderful meeting you and your sweet wife. I had a great time at your place and really appreciate your help in making the motorcycle trip with Gary Chenney and gang possible.

Im really thrilled that I was able to give you a helping hand with the window and door alignment. Suprisingly, we were able to get them both done in probably what equated to 1 full days work. The drivers side was a bit more work than the passenger side but we got her done. Its interesting how the first time through it is really a challenge. Re visiting it on your car showed it not being to bad with a few tricks I had learned on my car. The good new, is one of the more challenging parts of the build is now behind you.

You have really done an Outstanding job on your car so far, its just stunning in person.. Everything is very tidy and neat. The paint is just beautiful. The treatment you did to the Engine bay is very very nice. One of the best Ive seen. Seeing it made me miss my car. Folks, pictures just dont do this car justice. Its a stunner. Whats even more incredible, is this is first build!!!

Again, it was great to finally meet one a nicest guys Ive met in the FFR community. Your wife is just a GEM as well. Please say hello to her from Mary and I!

All the best, David

[David]

May I offer a suggestion:

The intake tubing is very close to the exhaust. Do you have plans to install a heat shield, or wrap the tubes? I'd be a little concerned about intake air heating. Maybe it's not that bad, but I'd recommend monitoring the air temps using IAT/HP Tuners.

Intake Air Heating = detonation prone cylinder charge, as well as less density for power.

I agree, IATs are very important.

I had basically the exact same intake and exhaust setup as on Mikes car, although my intake tubing was a bit closer to the exhaust than on his. I logged IAT's on my car while moving(with HPT), and they were very good. About 10 degrees over Ambient. They crept up maybe 20 degrees sitting in traffic, but after the intake change(what you see on Mikes car) I was really pleased with the results.

In contrast, when having the air filter right on the end of the MAF over the exaust, IAT's were in the 200 degree range if I remember correctly which is very bad I documented all this on the other forum, maybe 4 years ago. With that said, I think his is good to go given his current setup. He certainly could check it down the road, but if I was him, based on my testing, I wouldnt touch it.

David

[Stage7]

Hi Mike, I logged on to check in on your build. Repeating myself, and echoing the sentiments of others: beautiful. You've really taken the time to think through, sort through, and execute a really high quality build.

I'm sad to read that you had to properly fit your doors yourself after the GTM spending so much time (and you spending so much $$$) at such a well respected shop. Please correct me if I'm wrong in my assumption it should have been handled for you.

Thankfully you had David lend you a hand it getting it taken care of, which in the end is all that matters. Some good guys in this hobby...always nice to see stuff like that.

I can't wait to see your car in person! :)

[LS MAN]

Mike, your car is beautiful, you should be proud of the craftsmanship, & attention to detail. Really stunning.
Also good to see you getting some work out of DB :D
Maybe this will inspire David to build another GTM after he is done with the Roadster, hate to admit it, but we miss you around here.

[The Stig]

Hey Mike, Just wanted to thank you again for the hospitality. It was wonderful meeting you and your sweet wife. I had a great time at your place and really appreciate your help in making the motorcycle trip with Gary Chenney and gang possible.

Im really thrilled that I was able to give you a helping hand with the window and door alignment. Suprisingly, we were able to get them both done in probably what equated to 1 full days work. The drivers side was a bit more work than the passenger side but we got her done. Its interesting how the first time through it is really a challenge. Re visiting it on your car showed it not being to bad with a few tricks I had learned on my car. The good new, is one of the more challenging parts of the build is now behind you.

You have really done an Outstanding job on your car so far, its just stunning in person.. Everything is very tidy and neat. The paint is just beautiful. The treatment you did to the Engine bay is very very nice. One of the best Ive seen. Seeing it made me miss my car. Folks, pictures just dont do this car justice. Its a stunner. Whats even more incredible, is this is first build!!!

Again, it was great to finally meet one a nicest guys Ive met in the FFR community. Your wife is just a GEM as well. Please say hello to her from Mary and I!

All the best, David

Wow! Thanks Dave. These comments mean a ton to me.
I first fell in love with the GTM when I saw the Red LS7 car for the first time at the AutoFair in Charlotte back in 2008. When I learned about the Forum, I read all that I could to learn more about the car and what was involved in building it. This is where I learned of your build thread and used it as a guide to make good decisions going forward.

As I saw your car progress, I knew that for me I had to build a car that kept to the original design that Jim laid out for the GTM. I knew that I didn't want a "race car", but a more subtle-aggressive look. Your GTM build became the blueprint in my head.

The only addition to the body that I wanted, came when Shane introduced his custom rear wing. I really like the way it bridges the rear fenders and ties the look together. Everything else I've tried to keep as close to FFR's design as possible.

As you mentioned, this is my first build. (Ever). And as such, I may have over-thought way too many things. But in the end, I think I'm finishing up with a car that is a very close match to the picture that I've had in my head over the past couple of years.

So your comments really made me feel good about where I am with the car. It was awesome to be able to meet you and spend some time. It was also good to get back out in the Garage and get back to work on the car again.




Hi Mike, I logged on to check in on your build. Repeating myself, and echoing the sentiments of others: beautiful. You've really taken the time to think through, sort through, and execute a really high quality build.

I'm sad to read that you had to properly fit your doors yourself after the GTM spending so much time (and you spending so much $$$) at such a well respected shop. Please correct me if I'm wrong in my assumption it should have been handled for you.

Thankfully you had David lend you a hand it getting it taken care of, which in the end is all that matters. Some good guys in this hobby...always nice to see stuff like that.

I can't wait to see your car in person! :)

Hi Roberto. Jeff Collins (Whitby Motorcars) did an amazing job with the paint and body work on the car. The color came out exactly as I had hoped. The body work is absolutely straight. The Doors and Hatch still needed final adjustment, and he offered to re-work those things after I finished everything else up. I felt that it was important (for me) to go ahead and get the doors and windows lined up so I could have that behind me and not have to worry about it.

I've really appreciated your comments along the way, (and still do). You've been incredibly supportive and helpful to me. I was bummed when I learned that you made to choice to move from the GTM build to the SLC. But after learning more about the SLC, I can see why you made the switch. Your build is absolutely gorgeous, and you've incorporated some really nice touches. I can't wait to see it finished up. You and Allan will need to road trip down and meet up with some of the GTM guys, if we can make it happen. That would be way cool!



Mike, your car is beautiful, you should be proud of the craftsmanship, & attention to detail. Really stunning.
Also good to see you getting some work out of DB :D
Maybe this will inspire David to build another GTM after he is done with the Roadster, hate to admit it, but we miss you around here.

Hi Ted.
Thank you for your positive comments and the help that you provide not just to me, but to everyone here. Roberto is absolutely right when he said that there are good people throughout this hobby. I've been fortunate enough to meet a few face to face. Still looking forward to getting out to California and meeting you and Ron.

I'm also looking forward to:
- Getting the front Swaybar Kit Mounted
- Getting the Bushings replaced in the Control Arms
- Getting the FFR Bump Steer Kit installed
- Getting the new Shocks and Springs mounted
- Getting the Alignment finished
- Getting the corners weighed and balanced
- Getting the rest of the Wiring done. (Headlights, Windows, Wipers, Gauges)
- Getting the Interior installed
- Getting the Audio system installed
- Getting the Registration / Paperwork / Tags finalized
- And finally Getting this thing on the highway!

So see.... Just a couple more things to having this one wrapped up. Then I can start on the MkIV for Pam.

You guys are great! Knowing you all and building these friendships has been one of the more important parts of this whole build experience for me.

Thanks again for the kind words of encouragement. It matters!

[WIS89]

Thank you Steve. I really appreciate the positive comments. But there is still a bit to do yet. I do have to say, though, that I was really stoked to have Dave Borden's help with getting the doors and windows aligned correctly. I still have a little to do with them, but they're hanging perfectly, and the windows are sealing well with the upper weather strip.

And you're right; I am proud of the work that has been done so far on the build. Every time I see it, seems like the first time seeing it.

It is just the coolest design. The other side of the coin is the frustration of being so close, but not able to drive it on the streets yet...

It's getting closer though. And I think I'm starting to get excited about working on it again. (Went through a bit of a period where I couldn't have cared less about getting out in the garage to work on it).

If you're in the area, feel free to come by to take a look.

Mike-

Many thanks for the invitation! I may take you up on it. Likewise, if you are ever near the Triangle, let me know and we can share a beverage of choice while I drool all over your car!!

I can imagine being close, but not quite ready to drive. It would drive me crazy too, but just imagine the reactions you will get driving that beautiful beast (oxymoronic I know--but fitting!) around town!

Best of luck as you complete your car. Are you planning on going to the Charlotte Auto Fair? I have been kicking it around, but if you bring your car, it might tilt the scales!!

Thanks again, and keep rocking the garage!

Regards,

Steve

[The Stig]

Mike-

Many thanks for the invitation! I may take you up on it. Likewise, if you are ever near the Triangle, let me know and we can share a beverage of choice while I drool all over your car!!

I can imagine being close, but not quite ready to drive. It would drive me crazy too, but just imagine the reactions you will get driving that beautiful beast (oxymoronic I know--but fitting!) around town!

Best of luck as you complete your car. Are you planning on going to the Charlotte Auto Fair? I have been kicking it around, but if you bring your car, it might tilt the scales!!

Thanks again, and keep rocking the garage!

Regards,

Steve

Thanks Steve.

Yes I'm planning to go unless something pulls me away. However, I'm afraid that my car won't be there. The work list is shrinking, but there are Still too many things to complete... I have no doubt that I'll be doing a couple of shake down runs to the Triangle. I have a couple of promises to keep that involve making sure that some friends that I've made along the way get a good solid ride. If it goes well, they'll also get to drive it. You just really have no idea what it is you're building, until you get behind the business end of the Steering wheel and gas pedal of one of these cars... It's something to put in your memoirs. :cool:

If you saw the Match up between Dave Smith's Mk-IV, and Jim Maxwell's 427 Cobra recently on television, you'll know the first stop that I'll be making. Jim allowed me to take a few hot passes through the ZEMAX dragway parking lot in his Authentic and Priceless 427 Cobra. He was interested in the GTM build and I told him that when the car was done, I'd be heading his way to let him take it for a spin. That should be fun!

Take care Buddy!

Mike

[sk7500]

Don't forget about your buddies out in Bakersfield if you make it to California. Ron and Ted live about 4 hours north of me but in GTM time, 4 hours is but a blink of the eye.;)

Hi Ted.
Thank you for your positive comments and the help that you provide not just to me, but to everyone here. Roberto is absolutely right when he said that there are good people throughout this hobby. I've been fortunate enough to meet a few face to face. Still looking forward to getting out to California and meeting you and Ron.

I'm also looking forward to:
- Getting the front Swaybar Kit Mounted
- Getting the Bushings replaced in the Control Arms
- Getting the FFR Bump Steer Kit installed
- Getting the new Shocks and Springs mounted
- Getting the Alignment finished
- Getting the corners weighed and balanced
- Getting the rest of the Wiring done. (Headlights, Windows, Wipers, Gauges)
- Getting the Interior installed
- Getting the Audio system installed
- Getting the Registration / Paperwork / Tags finalized
- And finally Getting this thing on the highway!

So see.... Just a couple more things to having this one wrapped up. Then I can start on the MkIV for Pam.

You guys are great! Knowing you all and building these friendships has been one of the more important parts of this whole build experience for me.

Thanks again for the kind words of encouragement. It matters![/QUOTE]

[Kempo]

Mike your car looks awesome. I really like the color you choose for it.

[The Stig]

I was able to make some progress getting Ted Harrison's (Quick Racing Products) Front Sway Bar Kit installed today.

These parts are very impressive to me. The torsion bar is well engineered. The Billet Brackets are beautiful! The powder coated "Blade Arms" are very professionally done. The whole kit really provides a nice solution to the need for a little more control of the front suspension.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1406.jpg

Ted's installation instructions are dead on. They made the process go very smoothly.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1408.jpg

Here's a picture of the installed Billet Bracket with the bushing pushed in.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1409.jpg

I was able to do pretty much all of the install without having to remove the front tires.
However, I did pull the passenger side wheel in order to slide the torsion bar through.

[The Stig]

I also had to move a couple of things that were in the way. I have a remote positive
connection and a Master Fuse that I need mount some place else. I also needed to move
the Brake Lines out in order to run the bar behind them.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1419-1.jpg

I had to disconnect the clutch master cylinder so I could insert the bolts through the frame.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1417-1.jpg

My neighbor has a sweet mill in his garage that he used to make a couple of brackets that surround
the 3/4" frame tubing on 3 sides in order to provide a bit more strength since the bolt holes may take
out a little strength. The brace/sleeve adds strength back to the frame bars.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1420.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1411.jpg

Here is a picture that shows the Blade Arm in place, as well as the connector rod attached
to the lower control arms.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1412.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1413.jpg

One more item checked off of my list... :cool:

Next on the list, is to finish wiring the headlights, blinkers, windows, mirrors (once installed), etc., etc., etc.

[The Stig]

Got a good start on getting the headlights, blinkers, and Fog lights wired up. As I've said before, I truly feel that I have the coolest wife in the world. When I started installing the Front Sway Bar kit, my wife decide to make the rounds at the local parts stores to find some connectors for the headlights.

She took one of the bulbs with her, and 2 hours later came home with a set of pig tail that were a perfect fit for the headlights...

She found them at Advanced Auto Parts.
The connector is a weather pack connector made by Dorman.
Part Number: 84784.
Description: Headlight Socket for H9 Bulb.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1415.jpg

You can't really tell much from this picture, but this is what the packaging looks like if you decide to pick up a set for your car.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1414.jpg

When I'm done, I'll wrap the wires in wiring loom and tape them up. I'll also use a medium sized clip to hold the looms out of the way of the hinges and aluminum panels. I also have a set of Fiber glass Panel Covers that I'll use to cover the access to the headlights. Ted Harrison sells these, and they have a "bubble" that allows it to fit over the head light connectors, and mount flush to the aluminum panel.

So far, the passenger side Head Light, and High Beam is wired and working. However I have a question. Are both lights supposed to be lit when the High Beams are on?

Right now, when I switch from low beams to high beams, the low beams turn off. I thought that I remembered seeing a couple of pictures showing that all lights are lit when the High beams are on.

Can anyone send me a wiring diagram for the headlights and fog lights, so I don't have to re-invent the wheel? I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks,
Also will the fog lights be overriden when the brites are turned on?

[Kempo]

Mike how much clearance do you have between the blade arm and the shock spring? IIRC Ted had told me that the bar assembly had been designed running the shock with the body up and the spring down to prevent clearance issues. Make sure you don't have any contact there when the suspension moves. I see you have the yellow koni's so you should not have any problems running them inverted.

[The Stig]

Hi Hugo,

The arms are pretty close. The Yellow Koni's will be swapped out in the next week or so. If I'm still a bit close, I may need to work something out with Ted. I went ahead and installed the kit in order to see where I am with clearances, and to get it checked off the list of things to do...

When I get the new shocks, I'll let you know how it looks in terms of spring clearance.

Take care,

Mike

[The Stig]

Mike, your car is beautiful, you should be proud of the craftsmanship, & attention to detail. Really stunning.
Also good to see you getting some work out of DB :D
Maybe this will inspire David to build another GTM after he is done with the Roadster, hate to admit it, but we miss you around here.

I'm not sure how quick Dave is going to be ready to jump back into another GTM build. But I do know that he has a pretty firm idea as to what color it would be, if he did...

Just sayin'...

[VD2021]

Mike,
IIRC you were using the Billet piece that holds the wiper motor and has it's own tank. Did the bar clear with it with out any modifications?

[The Stig]

Mike,
IIRC you were using the Billet piece that holds the wiper motor and has it's own tank. Did the bar clear with it with out any modifications?

Hi Vidal,

I'm going to have to have the tank notched in order to fit overhthe bar. It shouldn't take much to get it done. I'll post pictures when it's done.

[Roger Reid]

Hi Vidal,

I'm going to have to have the tank notched in order to fit overhthe bar. It shouldn't take much to get it done. I'll post pictures when it's done.

After notching the tank for bar clearance, could you add a barb fitting at the bottom to connect to another lower mounted resevoir to increase capacity?

[The Stig]

After notching the tank for bar clearance, could you add a barb fitting at the bottom to connect to another lower mounted reservoir to increase capacity?

Hi Roger. I would imagine that as long as you had the other container at the same level, you could do a remote reservoir. If it were lower, I'm not sure if the pump would be able to draw the fluid. But as long as you can find a little room, I'm sure that it could be worked out.

[The Stig]

I found a set of "correct" pigtails for the Hella blinkers, complete with the rubber boot to seal the connectors. Well, let me rephrase that... My neighbor found them on line for me. I searched and searched using the part numbers on the light housing, and came up with zip. My neighbor is some sore of Internet Search Guru, and found them. That gets all of the headlight wiring sealed by weather pack connections as they should be. The Fog Lights will be wired through male / female weather packs as well. (Instead of the "bullet connectors" that come with them). So a little more progress is being made.

I'll take a few pictures of the connectors, and post the part numbers and contact info when I get home. (Probably Friday).

Next up will be the window switches, and finishing out the gauges...

[Kempo]

Do you have a link to where we can get them?

[crash]

You've got a pretty amazing wife there...but I'm sure you already know that! :)

I think you are the first one to post on here that has found the proper plugs for the lights. Those look much better and more finished than soldering in wires or push on connectors.

[The Stig]

Do you have a link to where we can get them?

Hi Hugo. I haven't had a chance to follow up with him to find out where the heck he found them, other than a shop near Philadelphia, PA. I think Ralph said that they were $14.00 each, plus shipping. So I asked him to order a set.

I'll definitely post the part number, and contact info when I get home.


You've got a pretty amazing wife there...but I'm sure you already know that! :)

I think you are the first one to post on here that has found the proper plugs for the lights. Those look much better and more finished than soldering in wires or push on connectors.

Yep! My wife is amazing. She's my soul-mate and my best friend.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0997.jpg

I was tired of hearing from everyone that all you could do was plug spade connectors to the prongs. It didn't make sense to me that a company would manufacture bulbs which obviously accepted a weather pack connector, and not have the connector available anywhere. So while Ralph (my neighbor, and next best friend) and I were installing the QRP Swaybar Kit, Pam decided that she would go on a search and rescue mission. She took the bulbs around to several parts stores asking them if they had pig-tails that would fit.

She said that at the last store (Autozone) that she went to, the guy behind the counter, looked at it and said that he didn't think they had anything that would fit the bulb. Then a lady that also works there asked to see it, and disappeared for a few minutes. She was back there taking parts out of boxes to physically check to see if what they had would fit. She kept on until she found the one that did. My wife said that the guy at the counter was fairly embarrassed that she came back with the correct plugs for the headlights. And my wife had a sweet little "I told you so" smile when she pulled into the driveway.

Yep. She's pretty cool!

But with that said, it was my neighbor who found the plugs for the blinkers... :cool:

He's also helping me to finish out the wiring, since I don't have the expertise to do it yet. But I'll definitely be the one to wire my wife's Mk-IV Roadster when it's time!

[LS MAN]

Hey Stig, keep up the good work. Got your shocks ordered for you.
Now I know why you are a happy man,:cool: Oh, and it also helps having a beautiful car also.

[The Stig]

Hey Stig, keep up the good work. Got your shocks ordered for you.
Now I know why you are a happy man,:cool: Oh, and it also helps having a beautiful car also.

Thank you Ted. And Yes, I have many reasons to be happy with my life. Picked right up on that, I see.

I have a question regarding the shocks and the use of the RamLift kit. Will the spring be at the top near the Sway bar Arm as mine currently is? Or will they be mounted right side up, with more clearance? Right now, I have roughly 3/8" to 1/2" clearance between the spring and the arm. Of course, when the shocks compress, the arm will move up and away from the springs. But I believe that if they were to extend, the arms would be hitting the springs. What do you think?

[dm65]

Here is a link for the turn signals, maybe someone else can find them cheaper!
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=4459

[LS MAN]

Thank you Ted. And Yes, I have many reasons to be happy with my life. Picked right up on that, I see.

I have a question regarding the shocks and the use of the RamLift kit. Will the spring be at the top near the Sway bar Arm as mine currently is? Or will they be mounted right side up, with more clearance? Right now, I have roughly 3/8" to 1/2" clearance between the spring and the arm. Of course, when the shocks compress, the arm will move up and away from the springs. But I believe that if they were to extend, the arms would be hitting the springs. What do you think?

Hey Mike, the shocks will be inverted, body side up, with the ranlift on the shock body. I like this better as there is less unsprung weight & less movement of the ram.
With the shorter springs, the sway bar arm should clear. If not you can mount the ram under the spring also. Interested to see how it works, and if we have any issues, will will come up with solutions.

Thanks again,

[The Stig]

Sounds good.

Thanks Ted.

[The Stig]

Here is a link for the turn signals, maybe someone else can find them cheaper!
http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=4459

That sure looks like them. The pig tails will look pretty good on the blinker lights, and provide a seal around the connectors.

[The Stig]

I spent a couple of hours today getting the mirrors installed on my car. I know it's probably not such a big deal for most of the people here, but to me it was kind of stressful, since I had to drill through the painted door. But it turned out well. They're evenly spaced and really look good.

I spent the rest of my afternoon with my neighbor trying to chace down the cause of why the headlights that were working this morning, suddenly stopped working this afternoon. After going back through the "wiring", we finally realized that the cause was a blown fuse. It was a 30 Amp fuse that was located over the "Accessories" lable on the fusebox; but had an arrow which pointed towards the Headlight fuse... Frustrating.

Anyway, The mirrors are on, and that's a little more progress made this weekend.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1421.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1422.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1423.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1424.jpg

It's getting there a little at a time.

[The Stig]

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1425.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1426.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1427.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1428.jpg

[sk7500]

It's always hard for me to click on your new posts. First problem is the color. I always have to find a bib to keep from drooling all over the keyboard. Then, when I get that taken care of I have to come to terms with the fact that your pulling ahead of us big time in build progress. I've been working like crazy and can't even get anything worth taking pictures of. Then I stop looking at the trees and just see the forest and I feel good again seeing what I have to look forward to. Keep up the awesome work, It keeps me off the couch. :)

[The Stig]

LOL. Thanks Steve. I sure don't feel as though I'm pulling ahead of anything or anyone. I have to agree with you regarding the color. I really like it. It was the right choice for me, and I think it really looks good on the GTM. I have a feeling that you're about to catch up and pass me pretty soon though. I've had to go back through the wiring for the headlights, High beams, fog lights, and blinkers. It's been pretty frustrating. Also, I seem to have issues with the Fog Light and Hazard light buttons. I can make the fog lights work when I cross the leads for the switches. But when I connect them to the Fog Light switch, and press the button, they will not work. I switched over to the hazard light button (since they are the same), and got the same result.

I could really use some thoughts as to whether or not you (or anyone else) saw the same issues with their fog or hazard lights...

When we finally get these cars finished, I'd like to have some sort of GTM Owners meet. I'm not sure of what the logistics would be since we all live so far away from each other. but it would really be a cool thing.

Take care, and I can't wait to see your car when you're done.

Mike

[sk7500]

The switches you're talking about sure look cool, but I had the same issues you are describing. Especially if you try to pull them out and re assemble a couple of times. For the hazzard button I had to build a special relay set up to separate the front and rear blinkers. Probably just ignorance on my part but it got me past one problem. The fog lights don't always work. I think they might be tied into the original c-5 electronics, and as such I might not have the proper sequence of components activated. But then you push the button too many times and the face pops of and the switch guts come out. Then the fog lights really don't work. Our dash is out right now and I have something else in mind. I'm sure the problems are self inflicted. So while I'm sorry you're haveing the same challenge, I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one.

[The Stig]

Hi Steve,

Yep. It sounds like we may have stumbled across the same issue. It's really strange.

I think I may go ahead and get a set of replacement switches and try those, just to determine if it's the switch or the wiring. Although, I really think that the wiring is right since the fog lights turn on when I cross the connectors to complete the circuit. The light comes on inside the switch, but it doesn't appear to be making the connection for the circuit.

I'm lucky to have my neighbor helping finish out the wiring. He (unlike me) knows what he's doing. :)

Mike


The switches you're talking about sure look cool, but I had the same issues you are describing. Especially if you try to pull them out and re assemble a couple of times. For the hazard button I had to build a special relay set up to separate the front and rear blinkers. Probably just ignorance on my part but it got me past one problem. The fog lights don't always work. I think they might be tied into the original c-5 electronics, and as such I might not have the proper sequence of components activated. But then you push the button too many times and the face pops of and the switch guts come out. Then the fog lights really don't work. Our dash is out right now and I have something else in mind. I'm sure the problems are self inflicted. So while I'm sorry you're having the same challenge, I'm glad to hear I'm not the only one.

[The Stig]

I'll tell you... We have a great group of people and friends on this forum and in the Factory Five Community.

My neighbor and I tried and tried to figure out why we couldn't get the fog light switch to work. And with a single picture, Vidal answered my question.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/FogLightSwitch.jpg

I am missing the square section with the three prongs that enable the the circuit to close... I just have the main switch body with the two prongs. These two prongs allow the switch light to power on, but they don't complete the circuit to turn the fog lights on.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/FogLightSwitch01.jpg

So I would have never known that I was missing the enabling part, had Vidal not sent the pictures of his switch to me.

Again, Thank you Vidal for your help and encouragement. We have a lot of good people here on the forum, but we could always use a lot more people like you. :cool:

Thanks, and take care Buddy!

Mike

[RumRunner]

Mike,

I'm not using my FFR switches. They're yours if you want them. PM me your address and I'll get them in the mail tomorrow.

-Michael

[The Stig]

Awesome! PM sent.

Mike


Mike,

I'm not using my FFR switches. They're yours if you want them. PM me your address and I'll get them in the mail tomorrow.

-Michael

[The Stig]

Awesome! PM sent.

Mike

Hi Michael,

I got the switches, and wanted to let you know that I appreciate the gesture.

I would imagine that we'll get them in the car this weekend, and finally have the fog & hazard lights working.

Thank you. :cool:

Mike

[The Stig]

The Hella blinker light pig tails finally came. Nice connectors with a rubber "plug" cover to make the connection watertight. They'll give the blinkers a nice "OEM" finish. I'll take some pictures this weekend.

DM65 Sent a link to the following info. Thank you buddy!

http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=4459

Here's the contact info as well as Part Numbers, in case anyone else is interested.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/GTMHellaBlinkerPigTail.jpg
Hella Blinker (3 Prong) Pig Tail

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/GTMHellaBlinkerLights.jpg
Hella Blinker Light

The wiring for the lights is almost finished!

Woo Hoo!

[RumRunner]

Hi Michael,

I got the switches, and wanted to let you know that I appreciate the gesture.

I would imagine that we'll get them in the car this weekend, and finally have the fog & hazard lights working.

Thank you. :cool:

Mike

Mike,

Glad you could use them. They were sitting in my garage getting lonely and feeling slighted having not been included in my build. I'm sure they're in a happier place now.

-Michael

[dm65]

Hey Stig, very glad to help. This forum is the best I have ever seen for sharing information.
Looking forward to your completed car photos!!!!!!!!!
Don

[The Stig]

Hey Stig, very glad to help. This forum is the best I have ever seen for sharing information.
Looking forward to your completed car photos!!!!!!!!!
Don

I know what you mean. There are some unbelievable people here. The finished car is getting closer each week. I've been making some good progress over the past few weekends. So you may see those pictures before you know it. I have plans of having a really nice custom interior designed and installed by a local award winning shop. So when that happens, is when I'll really feel that it's "close" to being 100% finished. (Until then, I'll probably have the FFR interior in place).

God knows when I'll ever have it on the road... But there should be some pictures before long.

Thanks for the cool words!

Mike

[The Stig]

I was able to help a forum friend out. I got a PM asking whether or not I still had my Gen-I seats, and if so, would I like to sell them. since I couldn't imagine what other project I might use them in, I told him that he could have them as long as he paid for shipping. He agreed, and now they have a new home, and I have a little more shelf space in the garage.

Last night, I think I accidentally learned the he's one of our "cousins" from the GT40 forum. Looks like the GTM seats will occupy a very nice spot in his RCR-SLC.

Enjoy Sharkey! I can't wait to see your car when you're done!

Mike

[VD2021]

Mike,
Outstanding! This community could write the book on how a forum community should be.

So what seats are you running now?

[The Stig]

Mike,
Outstanding! This community could write the book on how a forum community should be.

So what seats are you running now?

Hi Vidal,

I agree. This forum really is full of good people.

Back in Sept or Oct of last year, I bought a set of Gen II seats from "CarbonFiber" here on the forum. I believe he has a nice design for a set of custom seats that he's planning to use, and he made me an offer that I couldn't refuse. I sent him a check, and he delivered the seats to Whitby's for me. So when the opportunity came up, I decided to try and keep the good Karma going, and "pay it forward" with my seats.

Anyway, the Gen II seats allow my wide butt to get in and out a little easier. They'll be re-covered to match the new interior when I have that work done.

Chuck Hanna (Hot Rod Interiors by Chuck) called last Thursday to start getting ideas together and get me onto his schedule. I can't wait to see this thing when he gets done with it. When that happens, I'm calling it finished. Done. No More...

Until I build the Roadster for my wife...

[The Stig]

Got a little more done this weekend...

Got the wiring for the headlights completely finished (except for the hazard light switch).

The headlights, bright lights, parking lights, and blinkers.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1680.jpg

I got the firewall fitted in place. I'll make it permanent as soon as I get the "lava mat" that I want to use on the engine side of the tank covers, fuel tanks, and window frame...

I was able to get the sound deadener on the cockpit side of the tank covers.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1677.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1678.jpg

The pig tail for the headlights and blinkers worked out well. It gives a nice "finished" look to the wiring.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1687.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1684.jpg

Quick Racing Products makes a cover for the headlight access, that has a bubble to clear the wiring connectors.
I have them taped into place, until I decide if I want to use nut-certs or just self tapping screws to hold them.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1685.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1686.jpg


Getting closer...

[Kempo]

Very nice progress Mike. Looks good.

[VD2021]

Mike,

Nice wire detailing. Clean and professional.

[The Stig]

Also finalized the placement of the window alignment of the Drivers Side door.

My neighbor and I had to cut open the wiring zip ties and tape, in order to trace the wires for the power window switches. They ran into the 1 1/2" cross bar for the dash area. I guessed that they ran out to the end of the bar, but I couldn't find them. Then I looked back into the upper front wheel wells, and guess what I found... I found the power window switch wires, power door lock wires, and some speaker wire, all rolled up, and zip tied. I wouldn't have known that they were there, but I caught a glimpse of a yellow wire behind the roll-bar on the passenger side dash.

Once we found them, we were able to get the power windows and switches wired and working.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1682.jpg

The window is in contact with the upper body trim all the way across the top side. I had removed the weather stripping on the leading edge of the door, and at the rear of the door because they forced the window to stand out about 1/2" at the top. I need something to clean the weather strip that peeled off and stuck to the door. I'm concerned about messing up the pain finish if I use something too strong.

I'm looking for a different type of push on seal for these two areas that will better seal the front and rear edges of the glass.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1681.jpg

It's sort of hard to tell by these pictures... but we made some final adjustments to the windows and got them pretty much where they need to be. When Dave and I worked on them we had the windows moving perfectly into place, but I didn't have the tracks positioned and tightened down. When I did that, the window didn't want to move into the same place. So a little tweaking was in order.

I'm also making a bracket that will allow me to move the window motors up onto the lower door bar. This will give enough room for the window to move all the way down without the track clamps hitting the door skin. Before, it was hitting when the windows were about 2/3 down. I'll keep you posted as to how that turns out. So far it's looking good though.

[The Stig]

Made a little more progress on the GTM today.

Ralph came over and worked on the window alignment a little more. The driver's side window is perfectly aligned and tighly sealed against the weather stripping. Just a bit more tweaking with the bear claw latch, and get the "B" pillar to clear the rear quarter windows.

Re-wired the Fog Light Switch and set it into the billet aluminum console cover. The Hazard Switch is next...

I had a set a valve covers that I was finally able to switch out, along with a really nice set of chromed coil brackets, and stainless button head hardware.

Pulled the firewall back out, and added "Lava Mat" to the engine side of the fuel tank covers, and the rear window. I'm planning to install the plexiglass window tomorrow. (If I can figure out how that weather-strip tool works. :confused:). Then I'll reinstall the firewall.

Also planning to start the suspension re-build tomorrow afternoon, if I have time. I'm going to pull the control arms and change the OEM bushings with a set of Pfadt Poly Bushings. I've also recieved the new shocks that I ordered from Ted Harrison (Quick Racing Products). Eibach springs will hold the car up quite nicely.

I went ahead and assembled the shocks today. I'll do the rear first, since I'm not ready to take the RamLift Pro System on the front shocks apart yet.

[The Stig]

I spent the entire day trying to get the freakin' Rivnuts set for the fire wall. I had to do them a couple of times, because I couldn't get them compressed enough to be able to tighten the panels down without the Rivnuts spinning. Pretty maddening. But I kept at it (using up the entire day)...

Here are a few pictures of the engine bay with the firewall finally installed.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1618.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1620.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1619.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1622.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1624.jpg

Now that this is out of the way, the suspension is next.

[Steven K]

Looks great. I suspect we'll be seeing it at cars and coffee soon?

[fastthings]

Lookin real good. You can use wax and grease remover to remove the glue from the weather strip. It won't hurt the paint. Don't rub, just keep it moist with a cloth and it will come off.

And remember, with fresh paint, always try a real small spot just to make sure of a bad reaction.

[VD2021]

Mike,

Very nice. I really like the weave in the Lava Mat.

[The Stig]

Looks great. I suspect we'll be seeing it at cars and coffee soon?

Hi Steven,

I hope that it'll be there soon. I'll make sure and send you a PM when I know that I'll be bringing it to Cars & Coffee. :cool:
My wife is looking forward to us being able to take there also.
I think I must have crossed an invisible "line", where now when I make progress, I don't still feel overwhelmed by what's left on the punch list to finish it up. It has suddenly become very do-able.

I read that they've moved it from Northlake, to the Music Factory. That was a surprise...

[The Stig]

Mike,

Very nice. I really like the weave in the Lava Mat.

I like it too. It really cleans up the firewall, and gives the engine bay a more "complete" look. (At least, I think it does).

I had a neighbor who came by last Friday, and saw the car for the first time. He seemed pretty pumped about it in general. (I had it backed into the garage, and he was looking at it from the front 1/4 view). Then he saw the engine through the cockpit, and made his way to the rear of the car. I lifted the hatch, and out came the cell phone camera!

People really like to see the engine/transaxle/exhaust. But it was when I put the CF Engine Cover (Shane) on that it really started getting the "over the top" reactions from people.

I can't wait to take it out for a shake down cruise!

I've got to figure out how my Go-Pro camera works and get some decent video before long.

[The Stig]

Lookin real good. You can use wax and grease remover to remove the glue from the weather strip. It won't hurt the paint. Don't rub, just keep it moist with a cloth and it will come off.

And remember, with fresh paint, always try a real small spot just to make sure of a bad reaction.

Thanks Gene. I appreciate it. I'll pick some up this week, and start cleaning it up.

I also need to dig through McMaster-Carr for some weather stripping that is a better fit for the leading and trailing edges of the windows.

I've pretty much decided that I want to have the windshield taken out and reinstalled (with the overlapping seal this time). I'll time that at about the same time that I send it out to the interior shop. I think that'll make life a little easier on them.

We'll see how it goes.

[fastthings]

There is a different style of a window trim that all you have to do is push it down in the gap. It would not requir you to remove the glass. Check with a glass shop. I would avoid removeing the glass unless you have to.

[The Stig]

There is a different style of a window trim that all you have to do is push it down in the gap. It would not requir you to remove the glass. Check with a glass shop. I would avoid removing the glass unless you have to.

That seems to be the general consensus...

The gap around the edge of the glass to the body edge isn't necessarily even. Also, it sticks up above the body level in some places, and is flush in other places. It's hard to imagine that a "press in" seal would look evenly placed all the way around. I also want something to seal the bottom at the "firewall" under the hood.

That's why I thought I would check into having it reworked.

I'll see what they tell me before actually doing anything with it.

Thanks Gene.

[The Stig]

I was able to change out the shocks today.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1682-1.jpg
Left Rear

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1680-1.jpg
Front Right with Ramlift re-installed.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1679-1.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1676.jpg
Right Rear

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1675.jpg
Right Rear

[VD2021]

Mike,

Nice:cool:. I'm sure you're eager to see how it rides.

[The Stig]

I decided to use nutserts to attach the headlight access covers from Ted @ (QRP) Quick Racing Products.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1683-1.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1684-1.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1685-1.jpg

I really think that the covers work well and "bubble" allows enough room for the connectors.

[The Stig]

Mike,

Nice:cool:. I'm sure you're eager to see how it rides.

Hi Vidal,

Yes! I've driven a couple and felt how fast they are in a straight line, and I can't wait to see how it feels in the turns. I think that getting used to the driving a car as low as the GTM will probably take a little time as well. But most of all, I'm just ready to drive MY new GTM.

I remember how Ron Richmond said that the shocks improved the balance and feel of his GTM. With the tuned shocks, the sway bar kit, an accurate alignment, and corner weight balancing of the car, the handling should be fairly predictable. At least that's the hope. We'll see how it turns out before too long.

[The Stig]

My neighbor stopped by for a bit today, and helped me to adjust the rear hatch a little. We lowered the leading edge of the hatch to allow the leading edge of the glass to sit a bit lower into the body channel for the hatch. The curve of the glass doesn't follow the line of the body, so... I think it's about as good as it can be, unless I decide to have that whole area of the body reworked and re-painted at some point. It's not completely out of the question... But it'll have to wait, since I don't have an additional 15k to spend on paint and body right now.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1689.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1688.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1687-1.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1686-1.jpg

[The Stig]

I started fitting the engine cover. I still have to decide how I'm going to attach it to the frame rails. I'm thinking about using Velcro instead of screws. I'll sort it out next weekend. The interior guy is probably going to re-work it anyway. If it actually stays in the final design. Still to be determined...

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1690.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1691.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1692.jpg

[VD2021]

Mike,
You did a great job with the hatch adjustment. I'm with you on your cf cover. I'd hold off until you coordinate with your upholster.

[The Stig]

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/Miscellaneous%20GTM%20Pictures/GTMHatchFitment.jpg

Thanks Vidal. At least I was able to get the corners of the glass to sit flush with the body.

The only way to have any of the rest of the body to line up flush with the edges of the glass, would be to build up the body around the edges and define the correct gap. Then sand and prime, before the car is repainted.

Most people who have seen the car "tell" me that they're too busy looking over the rest of the car to notice; (at least at first glance). But it stands out to me every time I walk past it, and I'm not thrilled about it.

I'm afraid that in order for me to be able to feel good about it, I'll have to have the hatch and body sanded back down and built up the way it should be. And then hope that the paint matches up when it's finished. I can't remember if it was a straight paint mix or not. (It's a common Lexus color).

I'm sure as heck not going to be very thrilled if I have to pull the body back off to have the whole thing re-painted.

The only other thing that I can think of is to have a replacement "window" made of poly-carbonate that matches the body/hatch contours more closely. But I worry about how the engine heat will affect it. If I recall correctly, it doesn't take an extreme amount of heat for it to become pliable.

The plus side of how it is right now, is that engine heat, can escape very easily through the upper edge and the sides...

We'll see what happens when it happens.

[The Stig]

Getting ready to add the bump-steer kit for the GTM this weekend. I'm curious as to whether or not the tie rods have to be shortened again in order use this kit.

Thanks.

[The Stig]

Hey Mike, the shocks will be inverted, body side up, with the ranlift on the shock body. I like this better as there is less unsprung weight & less movement of the ram.
With the shorter springs, the sway bar arm should clear. If not you can mount the ram under the spring also. Interested to see how it works, and if we have any issues, will will come up with solutions.

Thanks again,

Ted,

FYI... I meant to send some pictures of the shocks with the RamLifts installed to show the clearance tolerances.

I ended up mounting the Ram's on the shock body as you suggested, but below the spring. Otherwise it wouldn't have have enough room for me to be comfortable with it. As it is, I had to extend the rods almost to max in order to lift sway bar arms up enough to clear the top of the shock and the spring. It clears like this, but I think I may need to get a set of longer connecting rods or use a cross bar that is about an inch or so longer.

The clearance issue isn't with the kit; but rather with the components that I have decided to use with the kit. If I didn't have to use the RamLift, and if I had the shocks installed right side up, they would clear with about 3/4". Plenty of room.

I'll let you know what I come up with when I have a chance to focus on it again. (Right now, I'm working in the interior).

[The Stig]

Quick question...

Has anyone used radiator paint to paint their radiators? I think that I would like to paint mine in order to make it less visible through the grill mesh. I'm curious as to whether it goes on thinner than normal paint, without clogging between the aluminum fins.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSCN0452.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1018.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1010.jpg

[RumRunner]

Mike,

I can't speak from experience, but it seems that paint MUST impact airflow through the radiator fins.

Have you looked at Shane's front grill? I bought one a few months back and it really gives the front a great finished look, and does an exceptional job of hiding the radiator as well.

-Michael

[VD2021]

Quick question...

Has anyone used radiator paint to paint their radiators? I think that I would like to paint mine in order to make it less visible through the grill mesh. I'm curious as to whether it goes on thinner than normal paint, without clogging between the aluminum fins.


Mike,
I did. I used Eastwood Black Radiator Paint. I used it on the forward side of the condenser and on the radiator where the condenser did not cover. I put on a light coat, but it is still very effective at making the area not stand out.
http://www.eastwood.com/paints/detail-paints/eastwood-radiator-black-paint.html

[The Stig]

Mike,
I did. I used Eastwood Black Radiator Paint. I used it on the forward side of the condenser and on the radiator where the condenser did not cover. I put on a light coat, but it is still very effective at making the area not stand out.
http://www.eastwood.com/paints/detail-paints/eastwood-radiator-black-paint.html

Thanks Vidal. I bought a couple of cans of the same paint. Your pictures show that the radiator can become invisible. I like that much better.

Thanks for posting the pics.

Mike

[VD2021]

Thanks Vidal. I bought a couple of cans of the same paint. Your pictures show that the radiator can become invisible. I like that much better.

Thanks for posting the pics.

Mike

Mike,

No worries.

I should have also noted that the nose aluminum is also installed.

[The Stig]

Mike,

No worries.

I should have also noted that the nose aluminum is also installed.

Speaking of Nose Aluminum...
I have that coming up on my list of "things to do", and I'm finding that there is very little good information in terms of how it needs to be correctly installed.

I remember Nathan (Spytech) having an issue with the lower aluminum tray (under the radiator) flexing at high speeds (above 80-90 mph) to the extent that it actually dragged the ground. I read through his build log and saw the braes that he made to help resolve that issue.

I also recall seeing a thread someplace that describes that a section of the nose tray should be cut and bent, in order to clear the radiator surround, when tilting the hood up.

Are these things that have been documented some place, or is it simply trial and error? I would think that this is one of the few things that would be done the same on each car, unless the builders are doing some custom brake duct sort of stuff. But I haven't seen anything that show how it is supposed to be initially installed. The manual is vague, and it doesn't seem to be something that people tend to document...

I have the digital manual on my laptop, and I've gone through it two or three times. Maybe I'm just missing it; but if so, I've missed it every time.

[mmaragos]

I used this for help in figuring out the nose aluminum.

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-factory-five-gtm-forum/87081-nose-aluminum.html

[The Stig]

I used this for help in figuring out the nose aluminum.

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-factory-five-gtm-forum/87081-nose-aluminum.html

Thank You! That's exactly what I was looking for! I'm sure that it'll help a ton.

[VD2021]

Thank You! That's exactly what I was looking for! I'm sure that it'll help a ton.

That's the nose aluminum thread I used. Shane sells a piece that is a combo under tray and splitter that may be an option for you. It is already cut to accommodate the radiator/condenser. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?2143-Lower-Priced-Options-for-Front-Splitter-and-Side-Skirts&highlight=SPLITTER

IIRC the item that takes hits and need reinforcing is the leading edge of the lower radiator shroud. I don't recall any other reinforcement to the nose under tray outside of riveting on the piece that is trimmed. http://www.gtm-supercar.com/?cat=15

[The Stig]

I sat down this morning to get the seat belts installed. I haven't really decided whether or not I want to use the Corvette seat belts or if I want to use the 5 pt racing harness. Mainly because I haven't found a set that I like that also has the colors that I want to use in the interior of my car. So I decided that I would at least get the OEM seat belts set up. In doing so, I ran into a grey area of the manual that I need to ask...

The manual says to remove the cog stop on the seatbelat retractors... Does this mean to remove the stops on all four retractor mechanisms, or just 2 of them. The manual shows a picture of just one of the stops, but not the other.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/GTM%20Parts/PassSeatbeltRetractorStopper.jpg
Here's a picture of one of the stops (shown in the manual). The Passenger's side is colored black, while the Driver's side is blue.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/GTM%20Parts/PassSeatbeltRetractorStopper2.jpg
On the other retractor, the stops are white.

Am I supposed to remove all of these, or just the black & blue stops?

[VD2021]

Mike,

The inertia sensor (circled in yellow, one per reel) is the part of the retractor mech the manual says to remove. However, this thread http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-factory-five-gtm-forum/87917-need-tips-getting-seat-belts-work-2.html steered me away from modifying the seat belts. I'm using a set of MikePMS's brackets http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-factory-five-gtm-forum/285708-power-seat.html#post2610100. The brackets put the seat belt retractors in the same relative position as they were in the corvette. So they work as they were designed to.

[The Stig]

Mike,

The inertia sensor (circled in yellow, one per reel) is the part of the retractor mech the manual says to remove. However, this thread http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-factory-five-gtm-forum/87917-need-tips-getting-seat-belts-work-2.html steered me away from modifying the seat belts. I'm using a set of MikePMS's brackets http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-factory-five-gtm-forum/285708-power-seat.html#post2610100. The brackets put the seat belt retractors in the same relative position as they were in the corvette. So they work as they were designed to.

Hi Vidal,

I actually read through these threads last night on the ffcars forum, as I watched the F1 Hungarian Gran-Prix. After doing so, I had pretty much resigned myself to the thought of just using the 5 pt harness, as it seems to be the safest option. I want to make the car as comfortable as possible for my wife to be able to ride and enjoy. But above all else, safety come first.

You said that you're using a set of MikePMS's brackets... Are these something that he is willing to make and sell to the GTM public? If so, I would be willing to invest in a set.

Also, could these be welded into place with the body on?

[narkosys]

Have you thought of using a set of these: http://www.corbeau.com/products/seat-belts/3-point-retractable-seat-belt/

P

[rev2xs]

Here are the belts i used.

http://www.autoloc.com/catalog/SeatBelts/3-Point-Push-Button-Retractable-Belt

They do require a little welding modification to the seat belt mount where the retractor will go. You can also select whatever colour you want.

[RumRunner]

Hi Vidal,

I actually read through these threads last night on the ffcars forum, as I watched the F1 Hungarian Gran-Prix. After doing so, I had pretty much resigned myself to the thought of just using the 5 pt harness, as it seems to be the safest option. I want to make the car as comfortable as possible for my wife to be able to ride and enjoy. But above all else, safety come first.

You said that you're using a set of MikePMS's brackets... Are these something that he is willing to make and sell to the GTM public? If so, I would be willing to invest in a set.

Also, could these be welded into place with the body on?

Mike,

Figured I'd chime in. I'm using a set of MikePMS's brackets as well. They actually bolt to the existing FFR seat belt locations, so no welding necessary (though Mike did weld his in - he made them "boltable" for Vidal and me). I know he sold me a set, so I'll assume he's willing to sell to 0thers as well. PM him.

-Michael

[LCD Gauges]

Awesome Mike! I need to spend more time in your thread (and others); you're moving along quickly. I wish you all didn't live so far away, it would be so cool to see these cars up close.

It's too bad you will have to re-work the rear glass. You are doing the right thing because molding a new piece will only show waves in the glass when viewed from the rear. I feel your pain,
and am dreading the time when my windshield needs to be fitted.

[The Stig]

In my attempt to get everything ready for the interior shop to start it 6 week ordeal with my interior, I spent a little time today getting the sound deadener installed in my doors.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSCN0721.jpg

The Driver's side was a PITA because all of the components were in place. It was tough enough to simply get the Sound Deadener sheet into the space. But then I had to figure out how to peel the backing sheet off, and start rolling it out against the fiberglass...

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSCN0720.jpg

The Passenger side was a little easier, since I had the glass and the rear track out.

I had planned to go ahead and install the seatbelts, but MikePMS agreed to make a set of brackets for me that allow the OEM seat belt retractors to sit at the correct angles to work as they are supposed to. So I'm waiting... I'm pretty happy about being able to use the stock belts. :cool:

MikePMS

[The Stig]

Awesome Mike! I need to spend more time in your thread (and others); you're moving along quickly. I wish you all didn't live so far away, it would be so cool to see these cars up close.

It's too bad you will have to re-work the rear glass. You are doing the right thing because molding a new piece will only show waves in the glass when viewed from the rear. I feel your pain,
and am dreading the time when my windshield needs to be fitted.

Thanks Tino! I appreciate your positive comments. It means alot to me. I'm trying to do the best job that I can with this car. It's taking much longer than I had planned due to additional unexpected GTM expenses that really stretched the budget... After about 8 months, it's almost covered, and I can get my focus back onto getting everything finished up.

You're right; it's a shame that the GTM community is spread so far apart... It would be great to have someone close by to ask questions and share knowledge (how-to's) and things to avoid. There are several GTMs that are reasonably close to Charlotte, but I'm not sure who owns them and where they are. (Except for Rick Williams in the Greenville / Spartanburg area). Maybe when everyone finishes their builds, they'll start reaching out to each other. It'll be really cool to see a line of GTM's at one of the local car shows here in Charlotte.

In the meantime, I hope that there is some information here and there in my "build thread" that you can use in your build. It would be nice to know that I've contributed in some way here on the forum. I know that there have been many people who have given me TONs of help and encouragement along the way.

There are lots of really good people here.

Thanks again for the props!

Take Care,

Mike

[VD2021]

In the meantime, I hope that there is some information here and there in my "build thread" that you can use in your build. It would be nice to know that I've contributed in some way here on the forum.

Mike,
I don't think you have to worry about that. No doubt you've contributed with an assist on many occasions with my build. Thanks again and keep up the outstanding work.

[sk7500]

Ditto that.


Mike,
I don't think you have to worry about that. No doubt you've contributed with an assist on many occasions with my build. Thanks again and keep up the outstanding work.

[The Stig]

What are you guys doing as far as sealing the body close out panels for the interior?

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSCN0723.jpg
This is the best picture that I have of the particular panel that I'm referring to.

The Bulb seal makes contact on the sides as you would expect. But the corners seem to leave at least a 1/4 gap. I'd really like to insure that this is sealed to prevent (as much as possible) heat, odors, and fumes from finding their way into the cockpit.

I am going to have to pull the lower side aluminum panels back out, in order to trim them a bit for the new seat belt brackets that I've just purchased, so now seems to be a great time to go back in and seal it all up.

Also...
Could someone post a picture that shows what the upper body close out panel should look like installed? I think I have an idea, just from trying different possibilities, but I'd really like to see a clear picture of it done right.

You're comments and/or ideas are appreciated!

As usual, Thank you.

Mike

[crash]

I know it's a little late now for you, but my plan is to glass in a flange all the way around where the sheet metal "meets" the fiberglass on the rear firewall/bulkhead. This will give a surface to apply sealent to and the aluminum trim panels will not have to be as precise as when using the bulb seal. I am a bit anal about FIREwalls and such and this is the best I can come up with to make a really good, tight seal.

[The Stig]

I know it's a little late now for you, but my plan is to glass in a flange all the way around where the sheet metal "meets" the fiberglass on the rear firewall/bulkhead. This will give a surface to apply sealant to and the aluminum trim panels will not have to be as precise as when using the bulb seal. I am a bit anal about FIRE walls and such and this is the best I can come up with to make a really good, tight seal.

Hi Mike,

I agree with you on the idea of using a flange. That would be something that could really make sealing the interior much easier. I'm not planning to take the body back off anytime soon so that's not an option for my right now. It would be a great improvement for FFR to make though.

I think I'm left with just running a bead of black silicone around the edges in order to make sure that they seal. Is this a good option, or is there something better that I should consider using?

Thanks,

Mike

[crash]

I know Richard Migliori has been using a product designed for sealing gutters on houses for this purpose and it works REALLY well. It gets pretty hard, but is still slightly flexible and it also is paintable and sandable. Pretty cool stuff, but alas, appears to have become another victim of CARB. He says he is not able to find it any longer in CA. You might want to try looking where you are though. I think he referred to it as "gutter seal" or "gutter lap". It bonds much better than silicone and has pretty good shear strength as well.

[The Stig]

Thanks Mike.

I'll take a look in NC, and see if we can buy it here.

Mike

[The Stig]

Since this crossed pages, I wanted to post this question again...

Could someone post a picture(s) that shows what the upper body close out panel should look like installed? I think I have an idea, just from trying different possibilities, but I'd really like to see a clear picture of it done right.

They are the panels the fit behind the seats and against the rear quarter windows. The one on the driver's side has the rear hatch release handle in it. I'm interested in how how the top of it fits. Does it get riveted to the side body brace that attaches to the rear window/fire wall section?

[kabacj]

Hi Mike,

Another option would be to use the aluminum foil tape used by HVAC guys. There are a few kinds . I have some that is quite thick but still flexible. The stuff is easy to apply, fire proof, and when applied carefully, airtight.

The stuff sticks well and is heat resistant. A layer on both sides will get the job done.

It's what I plan on using.

John

[The Stig]

I thought that this was sort of cool... "Cartoonizing" your car...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?7048-Cartoonize-your-car

Riptide posted the link in the General discussions section of the Forum.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/Miscellaneous%20GTM%20Pictures/TheStigsGTM.jpg

[The Stig]

Vidal & Mike,

I got the seatbelt inertia and retractor reels installed today. I really appreciate your pointing me towards Mike, for these brackets. The belts extend and retract exactly as they were designed for the Corvette. My question for either you or Mike, is whether or not the reels are supposed to stick out so far towards the seats.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG-20120815-00003.jpg

Also, I noticed that Mike had a cover that fit over the reels very well. Can you give some info on these? :cool:

Thanks,

Mike


Mike,

The inertia sensor (circled in yellow, one per reel) is the part of the retractor mech the manual says to remove. However, this thread http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-factory-five-gtm-forum/87917-need-tips-getting-seat-belts-work-2.html steered me away from modifying the seat belts. I'm using a set of MikePMS's brackets http://www.ffcars.com/forums/42-factory-five-gtm-forum/285708-power-seat.html#post2610100. The brackets put the seat belt retractors in the same relative position as they were in the corvette. So they work as they were designed to.

[VD2021]

Vidal & Mike,

I got the seatbelt inertia and retractor reels installed today. I really appreciate your pointing me towards Mike, for these brackets. The belts extend and retract exactly as they were designed for the Corvette. My question for either you or Mike, is whether or not the reels are supposed to stick out so far towards the seats.


Also, I noticed that Mike had a cover that fit over the reels very well. Can you give some info on these? :cool:

Thanks,

Mike

Mike,
The reels end up with a little less intrusion than if they were in the original FFR position (especially the aft reel). The manual has you slit/trim the carpet in that area. Mike (MikesPMS) used the donor's cover. He trimmed it down to fit and cover the opening. I'm sure he'll chime in with more detailed info.

I haven't installed mine yet, but I plan to fab an aluminum panel that will cover the area leaving only the belt slots open.

HTHs.

[mikespms]

11308
Vidal & Mike,

I got the seatbelt inertia and retractor reels installed today. I really appreciate your pointing me towards Mike, for these brackets. The belts extend and retract exactly as they were designed for the Corvette. My question for either you or Mike, is whether or not the reels are supposed to stick out so far towards the seats.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG-20120815-00003.jpg

Also, I noticed that Mike had a cover that fit over the reels very well. Can you give some info on these? :cool:

Thanks,

Mike

Hi Mike,

The cover is from the corvette,I am having problems posting pictures on this forum. I will take some new pictures today to give you a better view of how they mount and how to trim the cover. I cant see in your picture,if you trimmed the aluminum panel and is the side of the bracket with the nuts even with the outside of the frame. Call me if you like, so I could explain it a bit better

thanks,
mike

[The Stig]

Here are a few more pictures that show how the reels stick out towards the area where the seat needs to be. I checked the seat clearance with the reels in place, and using Mike's brackets. With the brackets, the OEM seatbelts work perfectly. But the 17" wide seats will not fit between the reels and the seatbelt latch.

The first picture shows the bracket and reels bolted into place with the aluminum side cover held into place with clekos. You can see that the reels sit completely outside the aluminum panel.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG-20120819-00022.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG-20120819-00021.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG-20120819-00020.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG-20120819-00019.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG-20120819-00017.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG-20120819-00014.jpg

Mike, as you can see by the pictures, the bracket sits flush against the back of the frame rail. But it still sticks the reels out further on my car, than the pictures show on your car. As I mentioned earlier, I'm pumped about the fact that it allows the inertia reel and the retractor reel to work properly. But if I can't get the seats in, then I'm going to have an issue.

My neighbor (Ralph) was over for a little while today. We're going to look into creating a bracket that takes yours a step further. We want to keep the angles needed to allow the reels to work correctly. But we're going to try to move the reels outward into the rocker area. This will take a little work, since there isn't much room to manuever in that area, but we're going to give it a shot. If it works, there will be plenty of room to install the seats correctly.

We'll see how it goes...

[RumRunner]

Mike (Stig),

Too many damn Mikes in this thread!

I saw your pictures and thought I'd send in what my driver's side looks like with MikePMS's brackets. I did everything I could do without modifying the frame or aluminum panels to move my seat toward the car center, and having done that I have about 2 1/2" between my seat and my reels. I haven't tried the passenger side yet, though I think it will be much tighter. And I should note that I'm only 5'9", and my seat is likely quite a bit more forward than others', which may allow me to move my seat closer to the center than other folks. Don't know if that helps or not.

-Michael

11351

[The Stig]

Hi Michael.

Thanks for the picture.

Your reels look like they sit further into the panel, leaving you a little more room. I don't know if there is any difference between the driver's and passenger's sides. I haven't started on the driver's side, because I wanted to come up with a complete solution for my car before I do that side. I really don't won't to have to undo both sides to re-work the belts. But now that you mention it, it would probably make sense to put the reels into the driver's side, and see if they fit the same way.

Then I'll know whether or not I can fix the issue in the same way on each side.

Thanks,

Mike

[VD2021]

Gentlemen,
I haven't installed the seat belt brackets yet, but I can tell you without a doubt that the passenger side seat area has less room than the driver's side once the tunnel panel (the one with the e-brake handle opening) is in place. Mike (MikesPMS) and I were discussing/measuring/comparing this not too long ago, so I put my panel in to take measurements. Mike's solution was to remake the tunnel panel which I will likely be doing the same.

[mikespms]

Hi Mike,

I am still unable to post pictures on this forum,if you look at the pictures I emailed you of the brackets installed in my car, the amount the brackets stick out into the car is about the same on both sides. There is more space on the drivers side than the passenger side, but in my car the seat belt retractors are behind the seat bracket and don't interfere with the seat.
I made a new tunnel panel that gained me about 1 3/4" more space on the passenger side,allowing me to reach my hand on the side of the seat to work the power seat control.
Looking at your pictures is hard to see how much space is between the back side of the seat belt bracket and the inside of the body in your car,it looks like the bracket is angled in towards the inside of the car. The back side of the bracket needs to be upritgh and parallel to the aluminum panel. Mike check the distance between the back of the bracket where the nuts are welded and the body of your car and call me I think I have an easy fix for you.
Thanks Mike

[The Stig]

Hi Mike,

I am still unable to post pictures on this forum,if you look at the pictures I emailed you of the brackets installed in my car, the amount the brackets stick out into the car is about the same on both sides. There is more space on the drivers side than the passenger side, but in my car the seat belt retractors are behind the seat bracket and don't interfere with the seat.
I made a new tunnel panel that gained me about 1 3/4" more space on the passenger side,allowing me to reach my hand on the side of the seat to work the power seat control.
Looking at your pictures is hard to see how much space is between the back side of the seat belt bracket and the inside of the body in your car,it looks like the bracket is angled in towards the inside of the car. The back side of the bracket needs to be upritgh and parallel to the aluminum panel. Mike check the distance between the back of the bracket where the nuts are welded and the body of your car and call me I think I have an easy fix for you.
Thanks Mike

Hi Mike.

It's hard to get a good picture of the reels, showing how far they intrude into the seat area. The bracket is actually upright, and parallel to the aluminum panel. Although, when the reels are mounted, the back side of them are pretty much even with the aluminum panel. That's what I've been trying to show in the pictures. I've taken it out a couple of times, thinking that I must have something aligned wrong. But it all looks correct.

I have about 1/2" behind the bolt that mounts through the forward reel. There is quite a lot of room behind the rear reel.

I'm begining to think that I may need to cut all of the original mounting brackets off of the frame, and make a new mount for your bracket that positions the reels further back and into the "rocker" opening. That would get them out of the way of the seats as well.

I'm also thinking of doing as you've done, and making another aluminum panel for the tunnel that allows for more room for the seat. I really hate to have to pull the tunnel sections out and start re-working that though.

[The Stig]

I used my 18" crescent wrench, and persuaded the reel bracket towards the outside of the car by about 3/8". It helped to move the reels outward, a little. I'm now able to get the seats into position, but it's VERY tight.

The brackets that "Mikespms" made allow the reels to work perfectly, and he's been great about helping to work through the issues that I've had trying to get them to fit my car. He took time to talk me through a couple of ideas, while putting much more important work on hold. He was in the process of preparing his house for hurricane Issac's approach.

Mike, thank you for your help. I hope you were able to weather the storm safely.

Take Care,

Mike

[mikespms]

1146111462

Thanks Mike,

The storm turned out to be rain and wind ,no damage. Hope it will stay weak and spare the gulf.

I am glad to see that you where able to make it work with a little persuation. If you need more room let me know, we can try a few other things on the brackets. And if you want more space between the seat and the door and tunnel. Here are some pictures of how I modified the tunnel panel and gained 1 1/2"to 1 3/4" it lets you move the seat in for more room. You can see the white line on the original panel thats how much room you gain.

Mike

[VD2021]

Mike,

Any progress updates?

[The Stig]

Mike,

Any progress updates?

My neighbor has "welder" in his list of things that he can do. Sooo... We took the passenger door off and completely disassembled it. The electric windoe motor bracket was cut off of the lower back side, as well as the forward brace between the two door bars. The motor bracket was re-welded between the door bars, which gives plenty of clearance for the window to slide all the way down, instead of 3/4's. The cables within the motor had to be rerouted, but that wasn't the big of a deal. The motor doesn't seem to run as quickly as it did though. I don't know if the motor is bad or if the cables are too tight.

The windshield is coming out next, for two reasons; to make it easier to finish up the wiring or the gauges, and to have it re-installed correctly, with the gasket seal that should have been installed the first time.

Other than that, not much...

I'll take some pictures this weekend, and post them.

Take care Buddy!

Mike

[mikespms]

116911168911690

HI Mike,

These are some of the mods I made to get my windows to go down all the way. First I relocated the motor allowing to replace the motor with out taking the door apart. And notched the door frame to give the front track more room for adjustment and clearance for the window.

[VD2021]

My neighbor has "welder" in his list of things that he can do. Sooo... We took the passenger door off and completely disassembled it. The electric windoe motor bracket was cut off of the lower back side, as well as the forward brace between the two door bars. The motor bracket was re-welded between the door bars, which gives plenty of clearance for the window to slide all the way down, instead of 3/4's. The cables within the motor had to be rerouted, but that wasn't the big of a deal. The motor doesn't seem to run as quickly as it did though. I don't know if the motor is bad or if the cables are too tight.

The windshield is coming out next, for two reasons; to make it easier to finish up the wiring or the gauges, and to have it re-installed correctly, with the gasket seal that should have been installed the first time.

Other than that, not much...

I'll take some pictures this weekend, and post them.

Take care Buddy!

Mike

Mike,
Cool. Any pictures yet? I definitely would like to see where your motors are now.

[The Stig]

Mike,
Cool. Any pictures yet? I definitely would like to see where your motors are now.

Hi Vidal,

Pam and I got back into town last night around midnight. We used our points for Airfare, Hotels, and Rental Car, and spent some time away from Charlotte, to get away from the mess caused by the Democratic Convention... I'm far from being an Obama fan...

I'll post some pictures of the window motor placement later tonight. It's nothing major. Just moved the brackets between the bars which allowed the motor to sit closer to the interior, allowing the windows to move all the way down.

[VD2021]

Hi Vidal,

Pam and I got back into town last night around midnight. We used our points for Airfare, Hotels, and Rental Car, and spent some time away from Charlotte, to get away from the mess caused by the Democratic Convention... I'm far from being an Obama fan...

I'll post some pictures of the window motor placement later tonight. It's nothing major. Just moved the brackets between the bars which allowed the motor to sit closer to the interior, allowing the windows to move all the way down.

Thanks Mike.

The President is definitely making his campaign rounds. He was here in downtown Kissimmee yesterday. I was on I-4 in 2008 when McCain was here and his motorcade was large. I witnessed the presidential motorcade (not on purpose) yesterday and it was HUGE and cool:cool:in a way. For anyone who has not see it before, just imagine a parade with 17 times the police, primarily on motorcycles, and a train of all black vehicles.

[The Stig]

Mike,
Cool. Any pictures yet? I definitely would like to see where your motors are now.

Here are a few pictures of the electric window motor bracket relocation...

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1716-1.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1714-1.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1713-1.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1711-1.jpg

Putting the motor in between the door bars gets it out of the way of the glass, and allows much more room to situate the window tracks as necessary.

The original "machine screws" that are used with the corvette, can be reused. I thought it made sense to cut the studs off the top section, for clearance.

[The Stig]

Here are a couple pictures that show the original location. The motor hangs below and outside towards the glass, which takes away from the usable room that the glass can move freely from top to bottom.

Of course it helps that the driver's side door is deeper than the passenger's side. My driver's side door had just enough room to get the window all the way up and down... But I think I may take this one apart and move the window motor in between the bars as well...

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1710-1.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1709-1.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1708-1.jpg

[The Stig]

A new bracket was made that holds the seat belt latch a little closer to the console, to get it out of the way of the seat. The bracket leans into the console, and then twists a few degrees to position the latch and buckle a little better...

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1717-1.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1718.jpg

A 1/2" nut was welded on to the back side to make it easy to mount the bracket inside the floor mount.

I also had to rework the seat belt retractor bracket that I bought from Michael on this forum. It works beautifully, and is a very nice piece. But for some reason, my passenger's side of my car is OFF by quite a bit. Ralph and I looked at it and both came to the same conslusion that it would be much better to take it apart and make it right, than to "work-around" the problem. So that's what we've been doing.

(I say "I")... Ralph Warner, my next door neighbor has been doing the welding, heating and re-shaping of metal and more wiring that hadn't been finished... Thanks Ralph! Your help has been tremendous and very much appreciated! Your friendship is invaluable. Still looking forward to learning to weld with your new Miller 210 MIG though...

Now the seat fits nicely.

[narkosys]

Your window motor mount mod is such a great idea! Definitely going to be a consideration when I build my GTM.

now to add a welder to my shopping list :P

P

[VD2021]

Mike,
Nice work.

Its hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks like the motor is positioned just right to allow clearance of the interior door handle?

[sk7500]

That's some really great work Mike. I thought about doing something like that but then I looked at all the other things I needed to do and decided that was going to "later" list

[sk7500]

I really really like this seat belt extension idea. That nut is such a pain. The only one worst is the one by the back window.

[The Stig]

Mike,
Nice work.

Its hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks like the motor is positioned just right to allow clearance of the interior door handle?

Vidal, I just positioned the motor so that the bracket was fluch with the door bars. This Stig allowed plenty of room for the window to be positioned to move up and down as needed.
The interior guy will eventually detemine what goes where when he designs and builds the new door panels.


That's some really great work Mike. I thought about doing something like that but then I looked at all the other things I needed to do and decided that was going to "later" list


I really really like this seat belt extension idea. That nut is such a pain. The only one worst is the one by the back window.

I agree with you in regard to the awkwardness of the access of those two particular nuts. Some, we can't do anything about. But for those that we can change, it sure helps. It's a real PITA to hold a lock nut with needle nosed pliers while trying to thread that bolt. I also noticed that the bolts were a bit too long, so I ended up goingto NAPA to by some that were a little shorter. Welding the nut to the back side of the bracket helped a ton!

I saw the pictures that you recently posted of your interior... All I can say is Whoa!... Very nice work.

[mikespms]

Mike,
Nice work.

Its hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks like the motor is positioned just right to allow clearance of the interior door handle?

Hi Mike,

Did you connect the rods from the door latch to the door handle with the door panel on? I tried that spot on my doors and the rods from the door latch to the door handle got in the way but I used the corvette striker instead of the one from factory five.

[The Stig]

Hi Mike,

Did you connect the rods from the door latch to the door handle with the door panel on? I tried that spot on my doors and the rods from the door latch to the door handle got in the way but I used the corvette striker instead of the one from factory five.

Hi Mike. I'm not planning to use the same layout for the door handles as the original door panels. We'll see how it ends up...

[Kempo]

A new bracket was made that holds the seat belt latch a little closer to the console, to get it out of the way of the seat. The bracket leans into the console, and then twists a few degrees to position the latch and buckle a little better...

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1717-1.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1718.jpg

A 1/2" nut was welded on to the back side to make it easy to mount the bracket inside the floor mount.

I also had to rework the seat belt retractor bracket that I bought from Michael on this forum. It works beautifully, and is a very nice piece. But for some reason, my passenger's side of my car is OFF by quite a bit. Ralph and I looked at it and both came to the same conslusion that it would be much better to take it apart and make it right, than to "work-around" the problem. So that's what we've been doing.

(I say "I")... Ralph Warner, my next door neighbor has been doing the welding, heating and re-shaping of metal and more wiring that hadn't been finished... Thanks Ralph! Your help has been tremendous and very much appreciated! Your friendship is invaluable. Still looking forward to learning to weld with your new Miller 210 MIG though...

Now the seat fits nicely.

Mike, thanks a ton for posting this. I had the same idea of making the bracket for the latches but it had never crossed my mind welding the nut to it. I will be doing the same thanks for sharing the idea.

[The Stig]

Hi Mike,

Did you connect the rods from the door latch to the door handle with the door panel on? I tried that spot on my doors and the rods from the door latch to the door handle got in the way but I used the corvette striker instead of the one from factory five.

Hi Mike,

The interior door handle (passenger side) has just enough room to work. We made a bracket that we could use to mount/screw the handle into. I didn't like the idea of using only the fiberglass of the door panel to secure the handle. Once the correct spot was located to mount the handle, another bracket was made that would hold an aluminum slide. The connector rod would slide through this piece, keeping it from vibrating or rattling while driving down the road. Everything fits inside the plane of the door panel. Then the rod was bent into the correct shape to clear the bars and window. The donor "rod-clips" were used to secure the ends into the handle and the bearclaw latch.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG-20120916-00093.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG-20120916-00096.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG-20120916-00095.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG-20120916-00094.jpg

As I mentioned previously, I'm planning to have new door panels made, so I just mounted the door handles to the new brackets until then. But, the panels do fit the door with these pieces in place, if I should decide to use them afterall.

One thing that I didn't realize, because it never occured to me, was when I pull the handle inside the car, the exterior door handle also opens. And visa/versa. It looks kind of goofy to me. but I guess that's what you get with these latches. (That and the inability to lock the door).

I don't have a picture, but we also made brace that runs the length of the upper door section. It's 1/8" x 1.0" flat steel. The rear end is bent to a 90 degree angle and mounts at the rear of the door, as well as the connector points for the window tracks. This made the upper piece of fiberglass very much more stable (solid), and holds the edge away from the glass. There is a fairly consitent gap at the rear, for an adheasive backed seal.

The glass is now positioned so that it seals all the way around the upper seal perfectly. Now, I'm in the process of trying to find a good "overlap" seal for the front edge of the window, as well as a good seal for the rear edge.

So, the passenger door is back together, and is aligned and closing perfectly. It has a Very solid thump when it closes.


Hope this helps. It's what we needed to do get everything working as it should.

[mikespms]

Hi Mike,

I was not aware that the out side handle and the inside handle worked at the same time. I recall Vidal having to make modifications to get his door locks to work properly. Is a good idea to make and fit the door panels before you finish your linkage and brackets.You may need make some changes after you make your door panels. Are you using power locks actuators or a remote keyless system?

I like the way Steve(sk7500) did his door panels they have that oem look.

I grafted the armrest and top inside window seal from the corvette to the gtm door panel so that i could use the corvette power window switch and to give the panel a finished look with out any fasteners showing.By doing that I had find a way to relocate the window motor and mount the door control module and be able to connect the rods to the door handle and make a bracket to secure the arm rest to the door frame.

[VD2021]

Mike,
Nice work on the doors. Its amazing how much time is required just to ensure everything fits and functions well.

The bearclaw's latch lever accepts both the interior and exterior handles essentially making them one. So they will move in sync.

[joe0121]

I thought that this was sort of cool... "Cartoonizing" your car...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?7048-Cartoonize-your-car

Riptide posted the link in the General discussions section of the Forum.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/Miscellaneous%20GTM%20Pictures/TheStigsGTM.jpg

Looks like HDR photography.

[The Stig]

Mike,
Nice work on the doors. Its amazing how much time is required just to ensure everything fits and functions well.

The bearclaw's latch lever accepts both the interior and exterior handles essentially making them one. So they will move in sync.

Hi Vidal,

I just read your PM regarding the shaved door handle actuators. Thanks. That looks like a great idea, and I may be in touch with you soon to talk through it.

I'd like to have the handles act the way most people would expect them to... :cool:

Take care Buddy.

[The Stig]

I spent some time getting the Remote Positive re-installed. I had to move it when I installed the Quick Racing sway bar kit. I made a bracket that straddled the sway bar and allowed me to re-mount it.

I also figured out where to solidly mount the horns, and got them working; although they sound like a sick cow... So I'll be looking for a set of replacement horns.

I'll post some pictures that show the effort.

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I've pretty much finished up everything under the rear hatch, and the hood. Just a couple of things in the cockpit and I'll be ready to send the car to upholstery.

But first... I need to make the seat belt brackets for the drivers side, finish the sound and heat barriers in the interior, and get the gauges wired...

I'm also wondering whether or not I need to install breathers in the valve covers low vent crank case pressure.

A friend of mine recently blew out the main seal due to excess pressure build up in the block. I have a PVC overflow but I don't know whether that will be enough to release the case pressure.

[carbon fiber]

mike, i've already spent the gas money i had for a ride in your car on beer! (just kidding!) your finishing touches are looking great. as for the venting of the crankcase, i use an fittings in the top of the valve covers, (bungs welded in to the top of each valve cover) connect them with hoses and a "t" an fitting and then run the hose to a remote aluminum tank with a filter on top. on front engine cars with filters in the valve covers i'd always get blowby into the interior when you were hard on the gas and the blow by would even get to the filter even with the plate on the inside of the valve cover blocking the hole.the remote tank install looks really clean and you can put the little tank where you want. (out of sight in the back of the gtm's bodywork) still dreaming about that ride....

[The Stig]

mike, i've already spent the gas money i had for a ride in your car on beer! (just kidding!) your finishing touches are looking great. as for the venting of the crankcase, i use an fittings in the top of the valve covers, (bungs welded in to the top of each valve cover) connect them with hoses and a "t" an fitting and then run the hose to a remote aluminum tank with a filter on top. on front engine cars with filters in the valve covers i'd always get blowby into the interior when you were hard on the gas and the blow by would even get to the filter even with the plate on the inside of the valve cover blocking the hole.the remote tank install looks really clean and you can put the little tank where you want. (out of sight in the back of the gtm's bodywork) still dreaming about that ride....

Hey Buddy! Long time no hear.

Dont worry about gas money. We'll get together and take it out for a good drive. Thanks for the info regarding the crank case venting. I actually have a Canton overflow tank that I haven't used. It would probably be perfect for this. It's a little big though, (about 4" diameter if i remember correctly).

I saw that you were working on carbon fiber covers for the center console section. Did you get those worked out? Do you have pictures?

Take care,

Mike

[carbon fiber]

i've bitten off a larger chunk and am working on exterior redesign now. i'm going to go ahead and sell the door panels soon, i was trying to get to a certain point on the exterior before i sell the door panels. i'm going to offer a RESTYLED front clip, and with some of the problems with the stock one resolved (properly rounded wheelwells, larger venting for radiator air, etc.) i've got a computer rendering of it and i can't stop looking at it! (even when i'm not working on it) the interior project is still in the works also, but i'm going to have to offer it as an entire kit, not individual pieces. the design i've come up with is too different to match any of the stock interior parts. i'm still here and i'm planning on offering more parts than i was to begin with for the gtm. i know it's lame not posting any pics, but i will when i'm closer to being done. got kinda tired of some of the drama (know how dave feels sometimes!) and haven't been posting as much, but i'm still here and will be bringing some really awesome options for gtm owners who want to take their cars to the next level. good to talk to you mike, thanks for the offer for a ride. just let me know when!

[flotowngtm]

Hey carbon fiber,
Cant wait to see what you have come up with on the interior!
I will be going home to S.C. on leave early next year. If you have something together by then I will have to stop by.

[carbon fiber]

flotowngtm, i should have some good progress made by then and you're welcome to stop by. i really wanted to be in production already but i couldn't resist starting the exterior mods. i can't seem to leave anything the way it comes, it's a disease!

[flotowngtm]

Trust me, I have the same problem!

[sk7500]

We need a name for that disease and is there a cure?

[carbon fiber]

it's called "empty wallet-wife left me(i didn't notice i was in the garage)-what day is it?" disease. no, there is no cure!

[The Stig]

It has been quite some time since I've posted new progress with my car. I just started a new project in Solon, OH that has kept me slammed for the past few weeks; and probably will for at least another couple of weeks. But I am planning to get out and do a little more to finish the "interior", and try to get the bottom side buttoned up. (Skid Rails and aluminum panels). How have you guys fastened the bottom side aluminum panels: rivets or screws. I've thought of going ahead and tapping the holes for some 8 or 10/32 button head allen bolts. For accessability. But it's also pretty easy to just drill out the rivets and replace them if/when needed. What are your thoughts?

I would also like to go ahead and place the nose aluminm in place, if I have the time. Not sure if I'll make it there this weekend though.

I need to go through the dash wiring bundle, and try to figure out which wires are in place for the gauges, and what still needs to be run... The gauges will obviously need to be connected and working before I can plan to send it off to the interior guys...

I'll probably have the registration and tag work completed while it's at Chuck Hanna's place, which means that it'll be finished and "ready" for the street when the interior work is done.

Chuck estimated about 4 to 6 weeks to do the interior. For those of you who have used pro interior shops in the past, does this seem like a reasonable amount of time? too long? too short?

I'm coming out of the 4th turn, up against the wall, and I can see the finish line.

More updates & Pictures to follow.

[carbon fiber]

alot depends on the fabrication (like panels to upholster like kempo's car or fixes to door panels, etc.) and the shops existing workload. what kind of materials, modifications are you talking? just a basic recovering of what's there? how much did they quote? i'd rather wait & pay more for a quality job in the end, especially the materials and the stitching.

[The Stig]

It'll be a complete custom interior.

The Materials will be Leather, Alcantara (Suede), Aluminum, Billet Aluminum handles.

The colors will be Light/Medium Gray Leather, with a shade or so darker Alcantara. Aluminum accent trim work where it makes sense. I think that these colors will work well with the body color, and polished billet wheels.

- Custom dash which will integrate a reworked porsche 997 turbo gauge cluster. (Alcantara will at least cover the Gauge pod. I'm thinking of having the rest of the dash, and the dash underside close out panels, covered in leather. But I'm not sure yet.) The dash will curve around and blend into the door panels, but the curve will flow downward creating an arm rest on each side. At least that's the thought process so far.

- Center console (Leather and Aluminum)

- Door panels that wrap. (Leather, Alcantara, and Aluminum, with brushed billet door handles)

- Headliner (Alcantara, )

- Firewall (Alcantara)

- Engine cover (Leather).

- I picked up a nice Black Leather Momo Steering wheel a few months ago. I may have it re-covered in leather that is the same color as the alcantara accents. But if it looks good as is, i'll probably leave it alone.

- The leather will have contrast stitching that matches the darker gray accents.

The only parts that may be re-used are the seats. But we're not 100% sure yet. I've been playing around with buying a set of Tillet B5's, but they're pricey. It may make better sense to put that money into the rest of the interior and keep the Gen-2 seats. I'm planning to take the dash, door panels, roll-bar covers, etc., and we'll figure out if they can (or should be) used in the design. From what I've told him that I want, I'm not sure that they can be.

Cost is high... At least I think it is.

But one thing is 100% certain. There will be a complete plan, and cost sheet agreed to, and I'll know exactly what I am going to get for my money BEFORE he starts to do anything at all. And he'll know exactly what I expect from him for the amount that we agreed on.

I can't wait to get it to the point that he can start working on it. That's what the next couple of weekends will be for. :cool:

[flotowngtm]

Make sure that your arm does not rest on that aluminum, its gets super hot.
I too have been looking at the B5's. I have been talking to the guys at piper motorsports. I need a seat for a 5-6 point harness and a HANS.
There not as expensive as you might think if you factor in going with a different seat anyway. At least with the Tillett seats you wont be paying to get them reupholstered to match your interior.
That MOMO wouldnt be the Trek-R would it? I think its the best one.

[carbon fiber]

sounds nice, and they'll probably need most of the time they quoted. the color scheme and the 997 guages sound cool also. i bought the momo "nero", it has black leather and suede, makes the ffr steering wheel look cheap by comparison. the tillets or any fixed position seat seems to not fit the car very well. you have to angle them back to get head clearance and then the front is angled upward. i haven't sat in a set, just seen pics and learned from the test fitting of the sparcos i'm modifying. (removing the corner in the bottom) the sparcos are only 14 inches wide in the back and i barely fit. 5'8" 180lbs. just make sure and get some measurements and double check. sounds like your on the home stretch, looking forward to seeing it finished!

[flotowngtm]

Here is the measurements on the Tillett B5. You could take the same measurements off your stock GTM seat thats also a fixed position seat. Then you should be able to tell if they will fit or not.

[carbon fiber]

my main concern was the distance between my head and the rollcage.(specifically the left overhead bar) they'll fit in the car for sure, it's been done. even with the stock seats, my head was too close for me, to the rollcage. it's one of the problems with the car, especially with taller people. i'd imagine if you're 6' or taller you're looking at part of the cage looking forward out the front. the way i've got the sparco modified and with harnesses, strapped down i can't get my head closer than 3" to the rollcage. if your head is able to make contact with the cage at any position while strapped in, that's a problem. it would be even more of an issue with seatbelts where side to side movement isn't controlled like with harnesses. with the sparco seat width at 14" in the back, (a couple inches deep also) if i were any bigger of a person i wouldn't fit. the tillets do look like they are shallow in the back and wider than others. mike, have you sat in the car with the stock seats? how close is your head on the left side to the cage? i wasn't comfortable with the way it was.

[flotowngtm]

That's one of the reasons I will be going with the HANS.
The B5 is made to be mounted really low in the chassis. Much lower than another seat. Sure that would help with your height issue.

[carbon fiber]

flowtowngtm, have you sat in the ffr seats? how close was the cage to your head/ how tall are you? just curious, i know it's gotta be worse for taller guys. there's no way i'd feel comfortable with my head that close to the cage.

[flotowngtm]

I have never sat in the seat installed in the car so I have no idea. But I should be good at 5'9"

Stig, I dont know when I will be ordering mine or if I will as I am adding a second redundant rear hoop in the car and have to make sure that my head will clear it as my main concern. But from talking to a distributor it could take as long as 2 months to get a set in. Depending on when they have a large shipment coming to the states. Just to give you some heads up on time line.

carbon fiber, I am sure these seats will go nicely with whatever your cooking up!

[The Stig]

I'm hoping to spend some time tomorrow to get myself back into this build, and get it wrapped up. I don't really lack motivation, as much as simply finding time to dedicate more than an hour here and there.

I can't get a lot done in short bursts. It takes more time than that for me. Pictures to follow! :cool:

[David]

Do it Mike, do it!! I'll be working in the shop the weekend as well.

David

[The Stig]

Well I had a nice surprise today...

I went out to work on the GTM. I wanted to crank it up and let it idle for a few minutes, and charge the battery a little, before I put it back up on jack stands to work underneath.

I hit the fuel pump, pressed the start button, and it fired right up. I noticed almost immediately that the water temp was going up pretty quick. In 3 or 4 minutes, it went through 180 degrees, and straight to 220. The overflow tank was blowing coolant onto the garage floor. I heard a noise that sounded pretty strange as I was shutting it down. I thought that maybe the belt had jumped or that crank pulley bolt had backed out. It was a loud mechanical sounding noise.

I pulled the engine cover and firewall out, and started looking around. Everything looked like it should. The belt and crank pulley were both in place and tight. But I noticed that the drive belt looked like it was worn on the front edge on top. It had apparently been rubbing against the heater lines... Take a look at the pictures below. It didn't cut all the way through, but I'm sure that they've been weakend.

So now I have to figure out the best way to fix them. Do I need to replace both hoses, or can I splice and clamp them? They aren't high pressure lines,

I also figure that I need to make some sort of bracket that will hold the coolant lines away from the drive belt.

On to the high water temps... I added some coolant to the overflow tank, and started the engine again. Same thing happened again. I heard the mechanical noise again, about the time that the temp gauge passed 210. It was the pressure going through the overflow pressure cap. At least the crank was still working, and the belt was tight.

About that time, my neighbor (Ralph) came over and helped me trouble shoot the coolant system...

We checked the coolant lines from the engine. They were both hot at the water pump; but at the radiator, they were cold. Not cool, or warm; but cold. So we figured that there was an air lock in one of the hoses. After the engine cooled down, I started it up again and let it build a little pressure in the lines. I shut the engine back down and Ralph cracked open the AN connector on the upper radiator side, and bled some of the pressure/steam out of the line. When the engine cooled a little, I added more coolant.

We went through this routine a couple more times, but couldn't make any progress. Since I am using the overflow tank at the driver's side firewall (above the engine head), I decided to jack the rear of the car as high as I could to try and get the air bubble(s) to move to the highest point.

We opened the AN connections on the water pump. The Thermostat connection had water leaking out when we loosened the connection. The upper connection on the pump was bone dry. We poured more water into the hose and re-connected it. I fired it up back up.

This seemed to work a little. At least when I started the engine back up, the hoses going in and out of the radiator got warm. So now I know that the water pump is working, and the thermostat appears to be working also.

That's as far as I got, but I think we made some progress on it.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/CutCoolantLines01.jpg
When I pulled the engine cover I saw that the hoses were being cut by the drive belt, after "digging around" a bit. It looks like the engine cover is pressing the hoses into the belt.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/CutCoolantLines02.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/CutCoolantLines03.jpg

As you can see, the hoses weren't cut completely through, but I think it's enough that they need to be repaired...


What do you think? Can I just cut the worn sections out and splice and clamp them?

Thanks,

Mike

[sk7500]

Well at least it happened in your shop and not out on the road with your wife in the car. Or at the upholstery shop. Teething paint are never fun. But it's easier when you have the home field advantage.

[The Stig]

Well at least it happened in your shop and not out on the road with your wife in the car. Or at the upholstery shop. Teething paint are never fun. But it's easier when you have the home field advantage.

That's exactly what I told my wife. I would much rather find these problems in the garage than somewhere in the middle of nowhere... This would have been much more maddening had it been out on the streets.

[VD2021]

Mike,

I was looking at some of the pictures of your coolant system plumbing. In a few of the pictures, I see the line that is attached to the head runs down with the 5/8" and 3/4" lines down into the the tunnel (can't tell how far). I assume it goes down and them back up to the overflow tank. If this is the case, you may be trapping air in the head that you want to go to the overflow tank. You may want to route the line off the head directly to the side of the overflow tank, in a manner that keeps it above the head, and see it this helps.

[crash]

Vidal makes a good observation. One of the main reasons to run the rear header tank is to avoid having the head line run down hill and then back up to the front mounted tank. I would change that line routing if I were you.

As to the bleeding, we experience this every time we change an engine on the race car. Which has been frequently lately as we tested three engines this year. You have to give the system time to purge itself and to also move water into the pump housing. The procedure with the header tank installed is much easier than the "stock" arrangement, but it may not be 100% fool proof the first few starts. It still takes some time to get the system bled correctly, but you don't have to keep vacuuming and making a huge mess over and over like you do if yourun the front mounted tank. Then once it is purged, it will work untouched with the exception of maintaining fluid level within the system.

As far as the lines rubbing? Unfortunately, I believe you know what the answer is. Fix it right and replace and reroute those lines.

[The Stig]

Mike,

I was looking at some of the pictures of your coolant system plumbing. In a few of the pictures, I see the line that is attached to the head runs down with the 5/8" and 3/4" lines down into the the tunnel (can't tell how far). I assume it goes down and them back up to the overflow tank. If this is the case, you may be trapping air in the head that you want to go to the overflow tank. You may want to route the line off the head directly to the side of the overflow tank, in a manner that keeps it above the head, and see it this helps.

Hi Vidal. The pictures that you reference; were they some place else in this thread, or are you talking about these three? I'll look through and see if I can find pictures that show as much of the hose routings as I can.

I appreciate the fact that you're giving it some thought. There are quite a few hoses (water & vacuum) running all over the engine... It make sense to make a good diagram of how this is currently set up: even if it's just for my build documentation.

Thanks Again buddy.

Mike