More progress made on the body : ) [Archive] - Page 3

The Stig

11-28-2012, 08:46 PM

Vidal makes a good observation. One of the main reasons to run the rear header tank is to avoid having the head line run down hill and then back up to the front mounted tank. I would change that line routing if I were you.

As to the bleeding, we experience this every time we change an engine on the race car. Which has been frequently lately as we tested three engines this year. You have to give the system time to purge itself and to also move water into the pump housing. The procedure with the header tank installed is much easier than the "stock" arrangement, but it may not be 100% fool proof the first few starts. It still takes some time to get the system bled correctly, but you don't have to keep vacuuming and making a huge mess over and over like you do if yourun the front mounted tank. Then once it is purged, it will work untouched with the exception of maintaining fluid level within the system.

As far as the lines rubbing? Unfortunately, I believe you know what the answer is. Fix it right and replace and reroute those lines.

Hi Mike,

I figured that the lines needed to be replaced. I just hadn't allowed myself to get into the mindset that there is yet another thing on this car that will now have to be done again...

But, it looks as though I'll be pulling panels out again in order to get to the front of the engine on both sides, to replace and re-route the hoses...

I have to say that I'm Not very thrilled about it though.

I appreciate the observations.

Mike

VD2021

11-28-2012, 10:14 PM

Hi Vidal. The pictures that you reference; were they some place else in this thread, or are you talking about these three? I'll look through and see if I can find pictures that show as much of the hose routings as I can.

I appreciate the fact that you're giving it some thought. There are quite a few hoses (water & vacuum) running all over the engine... It make sense to make a good diagram of how this is currently set up: even if it's just for my build documentation.

Thanks Again buddy.

Mike

Mike,

Post "50" (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?506-More-progress-made-on-the-body-%29&p=23768&viewfull=1#post23768) has some pictures of the front of your engine. On these pictures the hose connected to the head is bundled with the lines going down into the tunnel. IIRC it is a 3/8" line. You want it to stay above the head as it runs to the side of the overflow/header tank.

The Stig

02-24-2013, 10:55 AM

Has anyone here used the complete Cooling System Kit that Crash offers? I have most of the parts, from my purchases along the way, but it looks like there are a couple of things that I'm don't have, that I may need. I'm thinking of buying the by-pass kit to add to my re-configuration of the whole cooling system layout and function.

I've been so burried with my work, that I haven't had a chance to work on the GTM for the past couple of months. I'm finally back to a point that I can spend time out in the garage again. This will be my 1st priority, so I can get the firewall and underbelly buttoned back up.

So, before that happens, I think I should take the time to rework the the heater hoses from engine to heater coil to radiator.

If you guys have done this and can give some feedback, I'd really appreciate it.

Mike "Crash", I'll be placing an order this morning, but I also need your help with a couple of questions...

You have a PM.

Thanks,

Mike

crash

02-25-2013, 11:57 AM

PM answered. :)

The Stig

03-10-2013, 11:45 AM

The weather here in Charlotte was perfect for getting outside in the garage and finally tackling the replacement and re-routing of the heater hoses. When I was under the GTM replacing the heater hoses, I found the Vintage Air Heater Control Valve that Jeff Collins installed when he originally set up the heater hoses. This valve is an one way "in-line" valve that either allows water flow, or blocks it. It is also wired, and I assume that it's wired to the HVAC system wiring.

Since I knew that would be pulling the hoses and replacing them, I figured it was the perfect opportunity to switch to "Crash's" Heater by-Pass Valve solution. His kit allows for water circulation at all times. When the valve is closed, the water flow simply circulates back to the water pump. When it's open, the water flow runs through the heater core, and then back to the water pump for 100% circulation. Mike's (Crash) kit includes what looks like a vacuum type device that is supposed to be wired to a power source. It uses a vaccum hose that runs from it to the heater by-pass valve, which actually opperates the valve. I'm wondering whether or not I can with this back into the wiring source that the original Vintage Air valve was wired to?

I tried looking up the Vintage Aire inastallation instructions, but I don't know the model number of the A/C Heater system that Factory Five sells for the GTM, and I don't have the instructions that came with the system.

I would really appreciate it if some of you guys that are using the Vintage Air HVAC system, as well as Crash's Heater By-Pass Kit, could give me a heads up in terms of how this should be installed and wired. I think I've pretty much figured out the installation of how the hoses should go in, and how they should be routed. But I'm not sure about the wiring piece.

Here are a couple of picture of the Vintage Air Heater Valve installed.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0087_zpsbadeaafc.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0086_zps117f3427.jpg

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_0084_zpsbce64ebf.jpg

I also pulled the overflow tank out so I could reconfigure it.

I bought a 1/4" barb for the Engine Steam vent to go into the top left of the tank.

The water pump 3/4" hose will run up and over the front of the engine, across to the T-Fitting on the bottom of the Canton Tank.
The other side of the T-Fitting will be a 90 degree down to a 5/8" barb. 5/8" heater hose from "T-Fitting" to the By-Pass Valve.
The 5/8" Heater Hose from the water pump, and routed to the By-Pass Valve.
5/8" Heater hose from the By-Pass Valve to the Heater Core.
5/8" Heater hose from the Heater Core to the By-Pass Valve.

This mirrors the picture that Crash has posted for the layout / installation of the kit.

I'll post some pictures of the install as I go through it, for any others who may want/need to see it. (Either tonight or Tomorrow)

SIDE NOTE:

When I pulled the hoses, I expected to have the system drain it'self of most of the coolant. The water pump and the hoses running from it were dry. The over flow tank, was Dry. When I pulled the hoses from the heater core, they had a "little" coolant in them that drained out, but much less than expected. I haven't pulled the 5/8" hose from the Vintage Air Heater Valve yet, but I'm expecting the same. The Steam vent was corroded and rusted. (I cleaned it back up to get it ready for the new hose to the overflow tank).

I sure know now, what cause the engine to start over heating. No Water Circulation. But is was whan I traced the hoses back to the HVAC connections that I realized why... The upper Heater Hose connection was only finger tight. It's in a very tight place to be able to get a wrench in and tighten it up. But using on of my "AN fitting" wrenches, I was able to get it tight. I have no idea how long this fitting has been this lose. but at least I know right now that it is tight and should hold the coolant. I'm also wondering whether or not the in-line heater valve possibly being in the "closed" position, combined with the loose heater hose connection on the HVAC is what cause the all of the components to be DRY. Understand that the reason for my surprise is due to the fact that I never saw ANY fluid on the garage floor beneath the GTM. Strange...

I'm just glad that I found this now, while I still had the bottom panels off, and before I had taken off for a GTM road trip... I'm also glad that I found this before something bad happend to the engine. Luckily, everything is Ok. But it could have gotten very expensive, Very fast.

I believe that things happen for a reason, but that doesn't make them any less frustrating. And for now, I think I'll just keep it at that.

Everyone be sure and double check your connections BEFORE you buttom up the bottom panels!!!!

Mike

The Stig

03-10-2013, 10:40 PM

I pulled the Vintage Air Heater Valve out, and ran new hoses throughout the HVAC system, using the new Heater By-Pass Valve from "My Race Shop".

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/e47d8f8f-75ef-48fd-b7d9-b4644aa1c82d_zps9e7ff972.jpg

I connected the hoses to the valve in the way that seemed to make the best sense to me...

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/HeaterBypassValveInstall_zpse6892c95.jpg

The 5/8" heater hose from the water pump, runs into the "center" connection. The other side of the "center" connection is a 5/8" hose that runs into the Heater Core. The Heater Core Exit hose (5/8") runs to the outside connection of the By-Pass Valve. The 5/8" hose from the Over flow tank, runs into the outside connection of the By-Pass Valve.

I haven't run the wiring from the old Heater Valve to the new Vacuum Solenoid yet. I'll try to take care of that tomorrow afternoon. According to the install instructions, there is a vacuum hose that runs from the Vacuum solendoid to the intake manifold. But I haven't figured out where that connection is made...

sk7500

03-11-2013, 09:05 PM

crash

03-12-2013, 09:12 AM

sk7500- Good info to know. If you would please, post some pics of what you ultimately end up with so I can consider modifications to the items I include in the kits.

Thanks.

VD2021

03-12-2013, 11:03 AM

The Stig

03-12-2013, 12:44 PM

Yeah,

I found those hose runs to be a challenge also. I have different fittings for the bottom of the tank and I actually ended up going through the side of the aluminum panel. Maybe these pics will help someone.

The 5/8" hose from the water pump to the by-pass valve:
I ran that hose in a loop back under the engine and a/c Compressor and into the tunnel, in an attempt to keep it as horizontal as I can. Hopefully by doing it will help to prevent air pockets.

For the 5/8" hose coming back from the by-pass valve to the over flow tank:
I started to cut through the aluminum panel as well, but I ran it back along the engine cover frame on the driver's side and then made a loop back to the T-Fitting. I'll use hose connectors as you did, to keep the hose next to the frame and away from the serpentine belt.

The 3/4" heater line from the water pump:
This line runs accross the engine (between the intake manifold and the accessory brackets), and straight into the 3/4" barb on the T-Fitting. I have my steam vent routed exactly as you did yours.

I plan to run a 3/8" hose from the Canton overflow tank (neck):
to the top right (overflow) of the radiator.

There is also a 1/2" connection (top right of the radiator) that I can add the draincock to, in order to release any trapped air from the radiator.

OR... I could add the original Corvette Overflow tank, to use as a purge tank. Is anyone else doing that?

One thing that I was concerned about, was flow direction through the heater core. I couldn't find any place that mentioned which line should be connected to which heater core connection. So I called Vintage Air. I was a little surprised to find out that there is no particular flow direction (in/out). So it doesn't matter how they're connected to the heater core connections.

So all I need to do now, is make the correct wiring connections for the Vacuum Solenoid, and figure out where the vacuum line runs from that solenoid to the intake manifold...

Thanks Vidal.

The Stig

03-12-2013, 12:58 PM

Rework is never as much fun as the initial building but a lot more fun than pushing a broken supercar. ;)
I've done what you're doing and it works great. I didn't find a good way to route the hoses at the catch tank with the supplied fittings. One more thing on the list of things to do.

Hi Steve,

That's pretty much the same train of thought that I try to hang onto. Better to find it and fix it in the garage that on the side of the highway with all the picture takers laughing at the broken down Super Car.

As far as the fittings, I have to agree. I didn't buy the brass fittings kit to go along with the Header Tank kit. I used what was already there. My issue is that Like most of us, I have the post pump fuel filter mounted on the deck just below the overflow tank. I also have the Cold Air intake tube running through the same space. So I'm trying to work inside of those pieces. It's not so bad as long as you have the cockpit wall out of the car.

I guess the thing that got my attention more than anything else, is the fact that the upper heater core connection was only finger tight. No coolant is about the easiest way that i know of to cook a brand new engine.

But... I found it, and now it's fixed. $200.00 vs. $8,000.00.

Life is good.

sk7500

03-12-2013, 01:52 PM

I haven't talked with Crash yet, but I think I'm going to pull the tank and weld in two bungs on the side of the tank so I can eliminate the brass T on the bottom of the tank. Then I can plug the two hoses onto straight fittings and get rid of u turn the hose is trying to make.
I'm working on our fresh air intake system right now. But I'll have to deal with the hose routing before doing any serious driving.

crash

03-12-2013, 02:39 PM

Makes sense to me, and is the way we did it on the prototype. Then I recreated it as best I could with fittings because if I had to charge people for the pieces and time to do the welding then no one would likely want to buy it. I figured the people that have the TIG capability will just buy a tank and weld bungs and do it that way as it is cleaner and simpler, but the kit is designed for those without the welding capability so that they can still make the cooling system "right". :)

I haven't talked with Crash yet, but I think I'm going to pull the tank and weld in two bungs on the side of the tank so I can eliminate the brass T on the bottom of the tank. Then I can plug the two hoses onto straight fittings and get rid of u turn the hose is trying to make.
I'm working on our fresh air intake system right now. But I'll have to deal with the hose routing before doing any serious driving.

The Stig

03-15-2013, 08:50 AM

Special thanks to Vidal. I appreciate that you're always willing to make yourself available to help. Between you, David Borden, and Gary Cheney; you've all been highly instrumental in helping me keep my head straight when my frustration levels seem to get the best of me. I'm seeing light at the end of the tunnel again.

When we get these cars finished and all the "bugs" worked out, we really need to follow up with our plans to meet up, hang out and compare notes. Maybe we can get Keith and a couple of others from the area in the mix as well, and have a mini GTM car show at some restaurant in the Orlando area. That would be a sweet site. It's something to aim for at least.

Thanks again Buddy.

Mike

VD2021

03-15-2013, 09:22 AM

When we get these cars finished and all the "bugs" worked out, we really need to follow up with our plans to meet up, hang out and compare notes. Maybe we can get Keith and a couple of others from the area in the mix as well, and have a mini GTM car show at some restaurant in the Orlando area. That would be a sweet site. It's something to aim for at least.

Thanks again Buddy.

Mike

Mike,

That would be too cool:.

I'm looking forward to it.

sk7500

03-15-2013, 01:34 PM

Makes sense to me, and is the way we did it on the prototype. Then I recreated it as best I could with fittings because if I had to charge people for the pieces and time to do the welding then no one would likely want to buy it. I figured the people that have the TIG capability will just buy a tank and weld bungs and do it that way as it is cleaner and simpler, but the kit is designed for those without the welding capability so that they can still make the cooling system "right". :)

Crash,
Your kit is perfect the way it is. To be honest I don't know if we would have spent more money for a more expensive kit not knowing what I know now. But you know what they say about hindsight? So leave your kit the way it is. Maybe some upgrade options in the future. An all electric valve would eliminate the hassle of running one more hose and trying to figure out where to plug it into the motor. I know you're working on and it'll be great if you can make that option available.
Steve

The Stig

03-18-2013, 11:14 AM

Finished the replacing the heater hoses and re-routing them in order to minimize air pockets in the system. I went ahead and installed Crash's heater by-pass valve kit. I had a minor irrigation system emergency that had to be taken care or. (My wifes flowers weren't getting enough water). Turns out that the company that recently replaced my home A/C units, knocked out one of the control wires to the irrigation valves. That's fixed, and the flowers are getting water again, so life is good.

However, I ran out of time to get the vacuum pump solenoid wired. I'll do that this weekend when I'm back.

It feels good to get back outside and make some progress here and there.

Mike

Radkat

03-18-2013, 12:46 PM

Ditto, just did the same thing with my GTM. It's kind of a hassle but well worth it to avoid the air pockets and overheating. Shane (VRaptor) is now making a bracket to weld onto the frame that will relocate the Corvette plastic tank to the back, t FYI.
Radkat

LCD Gauges

03-18-2013, 02:16 PM

The Stig

03-18-2013, 03:30 PM

It has been a while since I've sat on this forum to catch-up with everyone's build. It seems like you're working through the pitfalls nicely. The new interior plan that you describe is going to be killer!From what I recall, you don't have the car registered yet, correct? If so, how close are you to zipping up the registration?

Hey Bud. All paperwork is complete, inspections have been done, and just needs to be sent in (with a fairly large check) for processing. I hope to have that completed by the end of the month. From what I understand, it's more of a formality at this point. but I've heard that before...

Mike

The Stig

04-27-2013, 09:23 PM

I finally got the heater hoses installed correctly, and solved the over heating problem that I was having. It wasn't hard to do, but when I intalled it initially, I had the hose running from the water pmp, and the hose running from the overflow tank crossed. I had already filled it with coolant, and burped the lines. So I was really dreading the thought of disconnecting the hoses, draining the coolant back out, switching the connections, and going through the process of refilling the system again.

But I had the perfect reason to get outside and get it done... My house was full of loud women who were here for my daughter's bridal shower, drinking wine, and getting even louder... It was time to get the heck out of there.

Once I got under the car and started working, it wasn't so bad. Of course I did get a face full of engine coolant, as I disconnected the hoses and tried to aim for the drain pan. But I knew that it was coming, so I made my peace with it, and got busy. 45 minutes later, it was done. I started the engine up and let it idol for 15 or 20 minutes. Problem Solved! Woo Hoo. Thanks to Mike Holland (Crash) for making the heater valve kit available to us. Works like a champ when installed correctly.

Before, if I let it idol between 5 to 7 minutes, the engine would get up to 210 / 220 if I let it. Now it hits 185 / 195, and kicks on the fans, and holds a steady temp. I finally feel comfortable enough to put the firewall and window back in, tidy up the wiring bundles, and install the bottom panels and skid kit. Then I'll install the seats, wire the gauges, and it will finally be ready for the interior.

There is a finally finish line in my somewhat near future. :cool: I may actually get to drive this thing legally this summer! What a concept!

Roger Reid

04-27-2013, 10:35 PM

Kool. ;)

sk7500

04-27-2013, 11:58 PM

You Rock!!!
It's great when things finally start going the way they should. It almost makes up for the hundred times it didn't.:-)

fastthings

04-29-2013, 11:39 AM

Good job Stig, it's hard to get past those stumbling points. Feels good to move on.

The Stig

04-29-2013, 10:27 PM

Thanks Guys.

I truly appreciate the comments. All along, My goal has been to build the best car that I am able to. But for the past year or so, it seems that anything that could get in the way, and/or block any real progress has done just that. It's been VERY frustrating to say the least. I eventually got to the point where just seeing it in the garage made my angry.

I can't tell you the number of times that I've considered just selling it, and starting over with a different project. I had even settled on an initial build plan...

1937 Ford "Oze Rod" Body, on a "Total Cost Involved" Chassis (or Art Morrison if I can get him to build one for a 37), an LS3 with a Borla ITB intake system, a Tremec 6 spd, Long Tube Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, Corvette C5 Independent Front and Rear Suspension, Corvette C5 center section, Foose Wheels (18's & 20's) with Michelin PS2's, ISIS wiring system, and a full custom leather interior. If I could stick to this simple plan, I could build it for just a shade over half of what I've spent on the GTM as of today, before the $12,000.00 interior, and $2500.00 audio components are installed.

I justified the idea in that it's a pretty cool street rod. It's pretty comfortable. It has headroom. It has a trunk. You can actually hear the audio system. I don't look nearly as fat when I try to get out of it. And I would probably have money left over when I'm done. Sounded like a good plan to me.

But when I saw that temp gauge holding a constant temp, there was still a little part of me that felt like I had accomplished something big; even though it really wasn't... Then I thought about it, and decided that I would just be damned if I was going to become one of the GTM statistics. I've taken my time, because I wanted things done right. So, this car will be finished by me, and it will match the goals of my original build plan (except for budget), and I will definitely drive it this summer. When it's finished, I'm going to have some pro photos made, show it at a hand full of higher profile car shows, and then drive and enjoy it.

So a little later (mid July or early August) you can expect to see the results of me figuring out how to use my 2 "Go-Pro Hero" cameras...

Hmmm... Sorry, I guess I must still have some frustration that I need to try to vent. Oh well...

Mike

Kempo

04-29-2013, 10:59 PM

Mike,
I'm glad to see you are back at it and making progress. It sometimes gets frustrating but wait till you are done. The GTM it's such a unique car that when you start driving it arround you will forget the frustrating times during the build. Keep up the good work and updates coming.

sk7500

04-29-2013, 11:38 PM

Mike
I'm glad you came to your senses in time. Remember that which doesn't kill you makes you stronger. You must be a pretty strong guy by now? It's really easy to get bogged down in the problems. I got to experience something this last weekend that I forgot about. Our GTM buddies at Huntington Beach seen the beauty of a nearly completed car. Not all the little things that I see. So looking through their eyes I realized how far we have come and let go of a little of the how much is left to do.
Trust me, these problems will not be nearly as painful the first time you are forced to stand back and see the car as a whole. That probably wont happen in your garage. The best place for me is at a car show. Then when you overhear all the positive comments from people you don't even know you start to realize what a great thing you have done.
So keep up the good fight. It will bend to your will eventually. You are. Soooo very close and there is lot of us out here pulling to get that blue beauty on the road.

Steve

The Stig

04-30-2013, 08:36 AM

These are the pictures that I keep referring back to for motivation.

(I know I've told this story before, but...)

This was the first time that I had ever seen, or new anything at all about the GTM. October 2007. Factory Five brought their Show Hauler down to Charlotte with the LS7 GTM and a couple of other cars. There was an awesome Type 65 coupe, and a couple of Mk-II roadsters.

I remember seeing the GTM from a distance, and wondered what it was. As soon as I got closer, I brought out the camera and started taking pictures. Then I called my wife and told her about it. I actually drove 60 miles round trip from the Charlotte speedway to pick up my wife, and bring her back, so that she could see what I was more than likely going to spend a chunk of money on.

As soon as she saw it, she fell in love with it and told me; “You have to build this car”. So the wheels were set in motion… I was given a copy of the Factory Five DVD. And not very long after that, I bought one for myself...

Since that day, my goal has always been to be able to have my car parked in this exact same spot, next to the FFR Trailer and take the same picture.
Then I will have come full circle.

I would also really like to take it to SEMA and Huntington Beach, but we’ll see how that works out.

At some point, Pam and I are definitely planning to ship the car out to Seattle, and then road trip down the coast to San Diego, just to do it.

Mike

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/Car%20Shows/PICT1015.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/Car%20Shows/PICT1015.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/Car%20Shows/PICT1016.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/Car%20Shows/PICT1016.jpg.html)

sk7500

04-30-2013, 01:04 PM

I want in on at least some of that trip!

fastthings

04-30-2013, 01:37 PM

Let me know when you get to Olympia, maybe I'll follow for a while.

The Stig

04-30-2013, 09:11 PM

mendo

05-01-2013, 08:40 AM

That would be pretty fun to have a few GTMs, Roadsters, and Type 65s rotating in and out all the way down the Pacific Coast.

I'll definitely let you know when we're ready to head out there. It's going to happen, hopefully in late summer or early fall.

That would be something to look forward to for sure! Talk about some serious motivation...

Mike

I probably won't be ready to roll on this one, and it sounds like a blast! please keep me posted just in case. I would love to jump into that group for a stint as well!

The Stig

05-02-2013, 07:20 AM

I probably won't be ready to roll on this one, and it sounds like a blast! please keep me posted just in case. I would love to jump into that group for a stint as well!

Hey Buddy. I would imagine that you have plenty of time. I mentioned that this was definitely going to happen, but it will be after the car is finished, and has done the cars shows, pictures, etc. It'll probably be somewhere around the end of the year or early next year. If this is something that others would really enjoy doing, I'll start up a thread when the time is close, and we can coordinate the trip and when we can meet up along the way. it sounds like a really cool thing to me.

We're also planning to do something similar on the east coast as well. Probably starting from Factory Five, and Driving down to somewhere in Florida. Jacksonville, Daytona, West Palm?

Mike

mmaragos

05-03-2013, 12:57 PM

Hey Buddy. I would imagine that you have plenty of time. I mentioned that this was definitely going to happen, but it will be after the car is finished, and has done the cars shows, pictures, etc. It'll probably be somewhere around the end of the year or early next year. If this is something that others would really enjoy doing, I'll start up a thread when the time is close, and we can coordinate the trip and when we can meet up along the way. it sounds like a really cool thing to me.

We're also planning to do something similar on the east coast as well. Probably starting from Factory Five, and Driving down to somewhere in Florida. Jacksonville, Daytona, West Palm?

Mike

I would definitely do the West Coast event...possibly the East Coast one too, pending the boss' approval. :D

VD2021

05-03-2013, 01:53 PM

LCD Gauges

05-03-2013, 02:40 PM

Hmmm...a week in Florida. Drive down in the GTM. Meet up with all of you crazy car freaks? Sounds like a plan for next year perhaps! Take lots of video, and pics please.

The Stig

05-05-2013, 08:29 AM

Mike,

You've gotta continue south to Miami.

Vidal,

You're right my friend! Destination South Beach! Move those Ferrari's, Lamborghini's, Bently's, and Maserati's over.

This is a great reminder that you have to be careful of what you say.

I had a conversation with Steve (sk7500) a few months ago, where I mentioned to him that Pam & I wanted to take the GTM out to the West Coast and do one of those once in a lifetime road trips that you always hear car guys either Dreaming about or Reminiscing about with their friends. My thought was to see some beautiful ocean views, have a great ride, and meet the people that have been so important in my build journey.

Who knew that there were so many others out there that would also want to be a part of it. I can't think of anything that would be more cool. And what a cool photo-op for all those California Cell Phone picture takers running down the coast. A Factory Five car show/parade headed down the PCH. This might take some real coordination, but when the time comes, this could really be a fun experience.

I've also been talking to Roberto & Allan Uzwiak, about doing something similar starting in the North East. So a starting point at Factory Five, and a Destination of South Beach/Miami would make for another over the top East Coast trip. There are more and more Factory Five owners along the east coast. I've also been looking forward to getting down to Florida with the GTM to meet You, Keith, and Michael, etc. Maybe we can also get Hugo and his GTM stateside for part of the trip as well.

But first things first. I've have to get my GTM FINISHED.

Kempo

05-06-2013, 05:01 PM

Mike, that sounds like a fun idea. When you guys get the east coast date I will do my best to make it there.

The Stig

05-06-2013, 08:32 PM

:cool: Sweet!!! :cool:

The Stig

06-04-2013, 10:08 PM

I spent some time getting all the wires running through the tunnel wrapped in Wire Loom, and also wrapped the heater hoses with heat (barrier) insulation. Hopefully this will keep the heat down in the tunnel and the interior. I've run the engine a few times for leak tests, and everything looks good. So I'm finally ready to re-install the belly panels and the skid rails. That's the goal for the weekend. It feels good to make more progress.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0063_zpsdf448043.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0063_zpsdf448043.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0061_zpsf46e5ddd.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0061_zpsf46e5ddd.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0060_zps34f81c79.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0060_zps34f81c79.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0056_zps87f7653d.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0056_zps87f7653d.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0053_zpsd65a84f0.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0053_zpsd65a84f0.jpg.html)

sk7500

06-04-2013, 10:14 PM

Looks cool:D
With all that insulation you should be fine.

VD2021

06-05-2013, 09:21 AM

Mike,

Nice. Gotta love progress.

Do you still have plans of completing the registration and driving it this summer or will it go to the upholster? Curious minds want to know:).

The Stig

06-06-2013, 08:03 AM

Looks cool:D
With all that insulation you should be fine.

Hi Steve. I think it should block most of the heat also. I want to try and do what I can to keep the interior as cool as possible. I've pretty much done all that I can at this point.

Mike,

Nice. Gotta love progress.

Do you still have plans of completing the registration and driving it this summer or will it go to the upholster? Curious minds want to know:).

I am looking into adding a Coolant Overflow catch tank, simular to what Hugo mentioned in his recent posts. My car was doing the same thing: when it heated up, it was pushing some of the coolant out the overflow tube, and leaving the tank very low when it cooled. I have a tank that I bought, but never installed. While I have the interior wall out of the car, I figure this is a great time to do it. Not I just have to figure out where to install it. But I do have to say that since I reworked the the heater bypass valve, It doesn't seem to be doing that nearly as much. I'm also trying to decide on a solution for the radiator bleed valve at the upper right corner. Not coming up with anything that I like yet.

And yes, the car will be at the interior shop by the end of June. When it come back from there, I'll be calling it finished. (Target end of July).

However, I do have a couple of paint scratches and chips that i'll need to have taken care of.

So I should be able to make my goal of having it on the road this summer. :cool:

Mike

The Stig

06-14-2013, 10:39 PM

I went ahead and sprayed the 2" frame rails with a rust inhibitor from Eastwood. Made a bit of a mess, but I'm glad I did it. I drilled a series of 5/16 access holes into the underside of the frame, slipped the paint nozzle/hose as far into the frame as it would go. And then sprayed the paint/rust inhibitor as I slowly pulled the hose back out. I let each frame rail dry, and then made a good second pass at them. I then had to get out the laquer thinner to clean up the drips and "overspray"...

Tomorrow will be spent re-installing the center panels, and the frame rail skid system. I'll leave the pannels below the seat section off, until I get the seats mounted. I want to go ahead and fit the side skirts, and the front splitter by the time I finish up tomorrow evening.

If I can get this short list finished, I'll try to take the car down off the jack stands. That's always a little nerve-racking...

It's about 16" up on stands, so a couple of inches at a time for the front and rear, until it's on the ground...

Should be an interesting day.

The Stig

06-15-2013, 09:51 AM

Since "Timmy" didn't want to see any pictures in the open house thread other than the pictures actually taken at the open house... I decided to post my version of the Factory Five Open House (Charlotte) for this year. I had really hoped to have the car done by now, and be able to take it up to Wareham for the Open House. (One of my GTM Related Bucket List Items... I have 3.) But I obviously didn't make it. Maybe next year.

I'm spending this year's open house in the garage getting the GTM a little closer to being finished.

Take care everyone and for those of you who were able to make it to the Open House; ENJOY the day @ FFR!

I think I'll fire it up, and give it a few good revs, and see how long it takes for the neighbors to come over. :cool:

Mike

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/TheStigsGTM003_zps90de2af3.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/TheStigsGTM003_zps90de2af3.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/TheStigsGTM004_zps86e45142.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/TheStigsGTM004_zps86e45142.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/TheStigsGTM005_zps6aa70345.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/TheStigsGTM005_zps6aa70345.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/TheStigsGTM006_zps41fe9996.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/TheStigsGTM006_zps41fe9996.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/TheStigsGTM007_zpsfd7cdb02.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/TheStigsGTM007_zpsfd7cdb02.jpg.html)

Edgeman

06-15-2013, 12:53 PM

WOW!!!! looking good, I wish I was as close to finishing as you are. For me this time next year, I have set June 1 for the completion date. Great to see the picture's!!

kabacj

06-15-2013, 01:00 PM

Hey Mike.

Your GTM looks great! So many,many, MANY hours invested!

I also wanted to make it up to the open house with build in progress example.
But my car is still dirty from driving in the rain on the track two weeks ago.

My car is functional, but far from as pretty as yours.

Your car looks ready to roll out on to the show circuit.

Next year ill meet you at the open house. We both bring our GTMs. Deal?

John

Taz Rules

06-15-2013, 01:27 PM

I love that shade of blue
Does it have a pearl in it?
Gorgeous!

carbon fiber

06-15-2013, 01:42 PM

that color looks great in person, i saw it when it was at whitbys. the car looks awesome. i've got some gas money mike!

sk7500

06-15-2013, 03:07 PM

Don't worry Mike you're closer to the FFR open house than I'll ever be. 😣

Kempo

06-15-2013, 04:05 PM

Looking good Mike. Keep those updates coming I really enjoy reading them.

WIS89

06-15-2013, 06:32 PM

Aman

06-15-2013, 09:06 PM

Car is looking beautiful, you must be very proud!

Rust inhibitor in the main tubes? Are many builders doing this? Is rusting through a known problem?

Thanks guys
Aman

Edgeman

06-15-2013, 09:48 PM

If you are worried about the tubes rusting on the inside, just fill the entrance of the tubes with expanding foam. All the big box stores have it (Home depot). This is what we do in the oilfield to seal pilings or supports with open ends. I was going to do this to the all main tubes of the frame that are open.

The Stig

06-16-2013, 04:45 PM

Mike-

The car really looks fantastic, and I know you must be really proud of how she turned out! I bet it is both a joy and a frustration being this close to being finished, but not quite there! Hang in there and get the beautiful car on the road where she belongs. I need to find an excuse to drive over there and sneak a peak at it!

Keep up the great work!

Regards,

Steve

Thanks Steve. You're welcomed to come over anytime to have a look. I've tried to make the car available for anyone in the area to come by be able to see one of these in person. I think it helps us both. It give me motivation to keep making progress, and gives them a chance to see a car that you may never see in person unless you build one. Pretty cool...

Car is looking beautiful, you must be very proud!

Rust inhibitor in the main tubes? Are many builders doing this? Is rusting through a known problem?

Thanks guys
Aman

In normal circumstances, probably not. I think that the frame got some water in it when the prevoius owner had it. I noticed a couple of rusted joints during the early build. I cleaned them well, and sprayed primer and paint back over the areas. I saw an ad from eastwood, regarding the rust inhibitor, and I thought that I would spray the rails, just to make sure. I probably over think things more than I should, but it made me feel better... :)

The Stig

06-16-2013, 09:16 PM

I love that shade of blue
Does it have a pearl in it?
Gorgeous!

Yes, there is a bit of pearl in the mix. The Color is "Lexus Indigo Ink Pearl". It's a standard color that you can get pretty much anywhere. I have the paint code somewhere in this thread. Whitby's did a very nice job with the paint on my car. Every person who has seen it, asks about the color and where I had it done. One guys asked me if I painted it... I just looked at him and asked: "Really????...."

Pictures really don't do it justice. It looks very different in person. Every once in a while a picture picks up the glow of the pearl in the paint.

This was really the only color that I ever considered painting this car. I just thought it would look cool with all the curves that the GTM has.

that color looks great in person, i saw it when it was at whitbys. the car looks awesome. i've got some gas money mike!

I haven't forgotten. Whenever it's done, I'll be getting in touch with you. I'm looking forward to seeing your work as well.

Don't worry Mike you're closer to the FFR open house than I'll ever be. 

Steve, we'll get the FFR West Coast Cruise organized soon. (3rd GTM related Item on my Bucket List). I can't wait to get out there and meet all the west coaster's that I've been talking to through this build. You, Ron Richmond, Ted Harrison, Russ Thompson, and Dave Borden. (I had the good fortune of having Dave come and spend a couple of days with us last year). Awesome guy!

Looking good Mike. Keep those updates coming I really enjoy reading them.

Hi Hugo. Thanks. You never know when some little thing that you, or I, or Vidal, or anyone else might do that will help someone else out... I can't count the number of times I picked up some huge help after reading through your's and Vidal's threads. Dave Borden and Gary Cheney have also helped me out a ton through this build.

This forum needs as many people like Dave, Cheney, You, & Vidal, that we can get, in order to keep it going for the new guys who are just getting into their builds. I came along just as the 1st round of builders were getting their cars finished up. Many of them really went out of their way to help the likes of people like me. So I try to pay it back as best I can. And I know that you guys do as well.

**************
Update:

I got the 1/2" drain hose attached to the bottom of the HVAC for condensation draining. now I need to cut out a small opening to feed it through.

I got skid rails for the center section drilled and clekoed in place. I didn't realize what a task that was going to be. But I'm almost done fitting everything in place. Next step is to take it all back out and start installing the nut-certs in order to have enough thread for the screws to really hold the skids in place in the event that they bottom out on a speed bump. Not really looking forward to that job, since there are 32 of them to set in place... I think it's time to get out the pneumatic thread setter that I bought on e-bay a while back, and figure out how it works.

I also remembered that I need to machine some 1/2" aluminum to use as a jacking pad / lift point at each of the frame corners.

The Stig

06-16-2013, 09:56 PM

WOW!!!! looking good, I wish I was as close to finishing as you are. For me this time next year, I have set June 1 for the completion date. Great to see the picture's!!

Thank you Buddy. I appreciate the kind words!

Hey Mike.

Your GTM looks great! So many,many, MANY hours invested!

I also wanted to make it up to the open house with build in progress example.
But my car is still dirty from driving in the rain on the track two weeks ago.

My car is functional, but far from as pretty as yours.

Your car looks ready to roll out on to the show circuit.

Next year ill meet you at the open house. We both bring our GTMs. Deal?

John

Hi John,

Every time I see your car, I go straight into Engine Envy. It's one of the coolest in a GTM. Love those Hilborn Injectors/Stacks.

My car will definitely be finished, and I am absolutely planning to have it there for the Open House. So I look forward to meeting up with you there. Gary should have his finished also; if he hasn't already sold it by then... So there's the potential for having a few GTM's there next year. It should be fun.

Take Care,

Mike

mikespms

06-28-2013, 08:25 AM

The Stig

06-28-2013, 10:22 AM

HI Mike,

A couple of questions regarding your master cylinders on your big brake upgrade and clutch. how much did you cut of the shaft on the clutch M/C when you changed to the 5/8 cyl. Wilwood tech recommended 7/8" front and 1" rear M/C for the 6 and 4 piston calipers to get the power brake pedal feel,did you change your brake master cylinders and if so how is your pedal feel?

Thanks Mike

Hi Mike! I'm sorry I missed your call yesterday. I was at my Grandson's little league All-Start baseball game. They won their game so they get to move onto the next bracket... Woo Hoo!

Big Brake conversion:

I made the switch to the 5/8" master cylinders for better pedal feel, and throw. I cut the rods to the same length that the manual called for with the 3/4" masters. For the brakes, I feel that I have a better sense of the pressure that I'm putting into the brakes. They feel a little more like "power brakes", but at the same time I can feel them much better. I can't really explain why: I just can. Steel braided brake lines keep the pedal feel crisp. The larger brake calipers do more work so your leg doesn't have to.

I went ahead and switched the clutch master cylinder as well, because I was concerned with over-extending the throwout bearing arm and breaking the attachments inside the transaxle, as has been documented in the past. I cut this rod to the original spec called for by the manual as well. By going with the 5/8" bore, the throw seems to be a little less, so I'm not as worried about cracking the internals... I'm also using a pedal "bumper" to limit how far the clutch pedal is extended. The amount of effort needed to engage the clutch is much less as well.

Since I've crossed into my 50's, I'm not as eager to go through a leg workout just to push the clutch in...

The only thing in addition that I wish I would have done, is change out the clutch and brake pedals to the new ones that come with the gen two kit. They look like they would be a little stronger, and the have a much cleaner appearance.

I hope this helps. :cool:

Mike

mikespms

06-28-2013, 12:40 PM

Congrats to your grandson and his team, best of luck to them on the next game

I just got a set of 5/8 master cylinders from summit but I spoke to a tech rep at wilwood in reference to the 5/8 master for the clutch and he said that 5/8 was the correct master for the Porsche slave. With the longer stroke and smaller bore it was a better match for the Porsche slave cylinder but when I asked him about the 5/8 cylinders for the big corvette brakes, he recommended to use a 7/8 master for the 6 piston front brakes and 1 inch master for the 4 piston rear because it would the same brake feel as the corvette power brakes and they would have the proper volume for those calipers. So before I return the 5/8 master cylinders to summit, I was looking for some input from the guys that have big brakes. The big brake kit I ordered is on back order and I'm going out of town, so while I wait for the brake kit to come and everything else in between I was just looking for some input and feedback on the brakes.

Thanks again, your car is looking great, I can't wait to see it finished!

-mike

The Stig

06-29-2013, 11:37 AM

Hi Mike,

That was a while back when I decided to make that switch. There was quite a discussion on the ffr cars forum, led by a couple of people who's oppinions I trust. It started when a couple of people noted that the clutch stroke was a little long and the "ears" that hold the pin for the clucth release are were cracking due to the pressure of being over extended.

If I recall correctly, that discussion led to the master cylinders to use with the big brake kits, where the solution was to move to the 5/8" bore MCs for front and rear. I'm not an expert in fluid dynamics, but the way it was presented made a lot of sense to me. And as you mentioned, there were calls made to Wilwood, who at the time recommended the 5/8" mc for the larger calipers. Go Figure.

With that said, the brakes feel good to me; but then I'm building a car that may see the the race track only once or twice. As well, I've only driven the car around my neighborhood, so I've not gotten up to any significant speed with it yet; (25-30 maybe). But from what I can feel in the pedal, I am not concerned that I'll have any trouble. They feel fine, and give me the confidence that I need that they will stop the car easily.

Take Care,

Mike

The Stig

06-30-2013, 09:22 PM

I've finished the re-work of the heater hoses, incorporating the heater by-pass valve/kit that I bought from Mike Holland (my race shop).

I've cleaned up all the wiring that runs through the tunnel back to the rear of the car.

I've re-installed the belly pannels, (except for the lower panels under the seats), and finished the installation of the "Skid-System" from Russ Thompson.

I clamped the side skirts onto the body and made my marks for the screw holes. I then drilled the holes for 1/4-20 button head allen bolts. I re-clamped the skirts onto the body, and made my marks on the chassis/body in order to drill out the holes for the riv-nuts.

Then I got tired and went inside for dinner!

I'll post a couple of pictures of the underside, when I have the skirts bolted onto the car. (Probably tomorrow evening).

Next, I plan to tackle the installation of the nose aluminum pieces.

Mike

sk7500

07-02-2013, 12:44 AM

LCD Gauges

07-02-2013, 03:21 AM

Your thread is lacking photos lately. Not good.

Get snappin', and post'em up!

The Stig

07-02-2013, 02:59 PM

It's funny, when people see your car painted they assume its almost done. IMHO after paint is the hardest part. You have to be much more careful and any lack of planning before paint is punished X10 after paint. But it sounds like your getting close to getting all the little odds and ends stuff sorted out. Soldier on my friend.

I couldn't agree more! No matter how hard you try, something is going to happen when you're working on a car with fresh paint... I have a couple of spots that will have to be touched up. And the whole car needs a good final buff.

Your thread is lacking photos lately. Not good.

Get snappin', and post'em up!

LOL!... I know... I know... I've been more concentrated on getting a few things done, rather than taking pictures of what I've been able to complete. :o

When I had the side skirts clamped into place, it really looked cool to me. So I figured that I would wait until I got them bolted on before I posted pictures.

It's nice to hear that people are interested enough to want to see how it's coming along. As always; It's getting there.

I'll post some pictures soon.

Mike

The Stig

07-02-2013, 08:19 PM

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/e9c2f230-facb-4215-a6ab-b8e5a85739c3_zpsccb52a29.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/e9c2f230-facb-4215-a6ab-b8e5a85739c3_zpsccb52a29.jpg.html)

Here are the side skirts that I've drilled out to mount to the body/chassis.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/8e2b1d96-2839-463d-9f1a-2a10d5276dc7_zps122abbd1.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/8e2b1d96-2839-463d-9f1a-2a10d5276dc7_zps122abbd1.jpg.html)

I put the tape on in order to mark the corners. This helped me line up the skirts along the underside of the body.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0179_zpsced7cdef.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0179_zpsced7cdef.jpg.html)

I have a couple of overflow catch tanks that I'm planning to use in the coolant system. I need something for the radiator
bleed petcock, and also for the Overflow tank from the engine.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0181_zps2bd3e1ad.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0181_zps2bd3e1ad.jpg.html)

I have the underside of the body pretty much buttoned up. (Except for the panels under the seats).

The Stig

07-02-2013, 08:21 PM

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0182_zpsc8d60659.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0182_zpsc8d60659.jpg.html)

I got the speed bump skid kit from Russ Thompson installed.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0183_zps67741d3b.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0183_zps67741d3b.jpg.html)

Rear Skids. These are what pick the car up, and protected the body just ahead of the rear tires.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0186_zpsce0598bc.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0186_zpsce0598bc.jpg.html)

The skids run from the front wheels to the rear wheels... They hang down just enough to protect the body and the panels.
This is a great kit for the GTM.

The Stig

07-02-2013, 08:22 PM

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0188_zps6e7e5924.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0188_zps6e7e5924.jpg.html)

Here are a couple of pictures of the underside of the car from the front. I still need to mask off the panels and body from
overspray, and give the radiator and condensor a light coat of radiator "black" paint. That will help to "hide" the radiator
from view when you see the car from the front.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0189_zps1b61f085.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0189_zps1b61f085.jpg.html)

If you look closely, you see the drain tubes that I drilled access holes for. The HVAC drain in front, and the Coolant Overflow
tank drain in the rear.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0190_zps40139ce1.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0190_zps40139ce1.jpg.html)

The eccentric alignment bolts still need to be replaced... I am not sure of the best way to switch these out and replace
them with the MRS alignment shims, without losing the alignment. I'm wondering if I should show up at the alignment
shop with the box of shims, and just ask them to set the alignment using them...

The Stig

07-02-2013, 08:25 PM

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0191_zps5e0494a8.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0191_zps5e0494a8.jpg.html)

With the side skirts clamped and taped in place, I got out my Silver Sharpie, and marked the
spots where I need to drill for the 1/4-20 Riv-Nuts.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0192_zps6ffe1131.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0192_zps6ffe1131.jpg.html)

I spaced the Riv-Nut marks every 12" until I got to the wheel openings.

The Stig

07-02-2013, 08:27 PM

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0194_zpsf522ef46.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0194_zpsf522ef46.jpg.html)

I know that a lot of people just let the parking brake bracket "float", but I think I would feel better if it was anchored in
some way. So I think while I have it up on the stands, i'll have a braket machined that will hold it and make it more stable.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0195_zpsdafa6a19.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0195_zpsdafa6a19.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0196_zps14ee6b7f.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0196_zps14ee6b7f.jpg.html)

The Stig

07-02-2013, 08:29 PM

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0197_zps3469bf08.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0197_zps3469bf08.jpg.html)

I took these pictures that show the car on the jack stands, because I'm planning to have to 1/2" aluminum stock machined
to fit onto the lift points of the frame. This will give me a more solid jacking point for each corner. Just behind the front
wheels, and ahead of the rear wheels.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0198_zpsf84ea98d.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0198_zpsf84ea98d.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0199_zpsb618a2a2.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0199_zpsb618a2a2.jpg.html)

kabacj

07-03-2013, 06:28 AM

The Stig

07-03-2013, 08:51 AM

I love the progress pictures Stig.

Regarding swapping out the eccentrics for shims. I will also try to swap them without changing the alignment. I figure if you keep one bolt tight and replace only one side at a time you have a good chance of keeping the alignment set properly. I also figure some careful measurement of the position of the bolt relative to the shoulders that hold the eccentric and shim in position on the frame will also give you a good chance of putting the bolt back where it was with the eccentric.

John

Yep.. That's going to be a challenge.

There must be an easier way of doing it, but I've not heard of anyone who has put them on their cars and then explained how they did it without losing the set up. I think you're right though. You would almost have to have a grid marked behind the eccentric bolt, so you could reference an X,Y location.

I can handle the toe-in settings, but I do have one question. How are you locating true center to measure from?
I don't have the tools for setting caster and camber, but I've thought of buying something to do it. I'm not sure which one works best (most accurate).

I think this whole process is definitely something that should be documented for anyone who wants to use these shims. I wonder how many people have bought the shims but haven't used them because they couldn't figure out how to install them correctly?

It's on my list of things to do.

One more question... Have you slotted the front upper control arm mounts?

I've read that others have done that to help with caster. I don't know why, but it just seems to me that I'm giving up some strength in the mounts if I do that...

I would almost rather take the upper control arm itself, and have 3/8" to 1/2" machined off of the rear of each connection point. And then the same amount machined off of the front side of the lower arm connections. Then just use an aluminm spacer to fill that space. This would allow the arm to be positioned in a way to help with caster.

Of course then I'd have to have the polly bushings cut to fit as well, but that's not as much of an issue.

A good adjustable upper control arm would be the real ticket for these cars.

As I've said over and over, I tend to overthink things when it comes to this car.

Mike

crash

07-03-2013, 11:08 AM

First off, I am assuming the MWS shims are the MRS shims? In any case, in the instructions, that you can see here... http://www.myraceshop.com/Shim_Detail_2_New.html I talk in the "Helpful Notes" area about how you go about swapping over to the shims without losing alignment. Very easy procedure. You simply mark where the eccentric touches the parallel "rails" that the eccentric locates against on either side with a sharpie. Then you simply remove the bolts, slide on a shim that looks close, and see if it matches where the pen marks are. If not, go to the next position shim until you get a match. This is the shim that will need to be used in order to keep alignment the same as what you had with the eccentric bolt. Put the shims in in place of the eccentric bolt and washer and you now have a "locked" alignment shim. Easy peasy.

BTW- I am packaging these with the instructions located in the same pouch with the shipping documents now, so maybe you did not see them in there? I debated doing this, but it is much easier because I simply package up the kits and then add the docs later. Also the docs were being damaged by the shims when I put the docs in the box with the shims, so this was the solution. In any case, install instructions and pictures are always available online at www.myraceshop.com.

crash

07-03-2013, 11:20 AM

I just got a PM from someone else asking why they only got two sizes of shims. That is all that is included in the kit. There are two different shims, silver shims and gold shims. There are 12 of each style. Within each shim there are 4 different positions and therefore 4 settings per shim. So with the two different shim styles there is a total of 8 possible positions. Then they can be positioned in either a + direction from center, or a - direction from center, so there is a total of 15 positions available from the two shim styles depending upon how the shim is turned.

Please see this picture...

http://www.myraceshop.com/Shim_Detail_1_New.html

The Stig

07-03-2013, 04:11 PM

The Stig

07-03-2013, 04:19 PM

Instructions for Corvette/GTM Suspension Alignment Shims

-Use the supplied bolts and washers in place of the "stock" cam bolts. Reuse the "stock" nut.
-Shims are laser cut 3/16 steel with holes numbered 0 to 7. Total of 24 shims for a GTM application in each kit.
-Shims are eight way positionable. Four offsets per shim, and two different sides, make for eight different positions from just one shim.
-15 total different positions are possible by orienting the two different shims in the various positions.
-Two color coordinated types of shims for easy identification.
Silver = Positions 1,2,5,6.
Gold = Positions 0,3,4,7.
(Mine are Blue and Black, I think)
-Adjustable from +10.5 millimeters (Shim #7) from center location (Shim #0) to -10.5 millimeters (Shim #7) from center location (Shim #0).
-Number will correspond to the correct hole when the number is properly readable and in the lower center to lower right hand quadrant of the related hole.
-Take note of the indexing notch in the picture (http://www.myraceshop.com/Shim_Detail_1_New.html) in order to orient the shim in either the + or – position of the desired numbered hole which will relate to the desired offset.

Helpful Notes
-For finer adjustment, shims can be staggered with, say for example, a number 5 on one side and a number 6 on the other, of one suspension arm mounting point.
This will effectively give you half of the adjustment, or .75 millimeters change.
The #5 and #6 shim example would therefore yield an 8.25 millimeter offset from center.
By using the shims in this manner, the effective adjustability is increased to 29 different locating positions within an overall distance of 21 millimeters.
This method may make getting the bolt through the "stack" a little difficult, and you should make double sure the shims are seated within the tab guides when utilizing this
method.
-Make sure to readjust toe once suspension settings are achieved with the shims.
-This system makes adjustments that are repeatable and easy to do, even at a race track on an uneven surface.

-Shims may have to be mismatched in order to get the bolt to go through the suspension point "stack" depending upon overall arm orientation.

crash

07-05-2013, 10:01 AM

If you have the early black and blue painted shims instead of the plated ones that are currently sold, then the site still has your orientation picture available here...

http://www.myraceshop.com/Shim_Detail_1.html

Any questions or things you need explained, please don't hesitate to ask.

crash

07-05-2013, 10:10 AM

Also just got this question via PM...

What confused me was the picture on the site or with the product does not show the numbers stamped on the shims clearly. Each shim has numbers stamped on it. I could not verify that I had the same parts as shown in the picture.

I dont have the shims in front of me, and maybe it makes more sense when you can read them, but why stamp numbers at all? The color and the clip out of the corner is all you need to verify the orientation right?

Correct, but without the numbers it would get confusing. Especially if you are at the track and don't have the picture to look at. The number allows you to go the direction you want to without having anything else to look at. The notch was added really so that if you are doing an adjustment and can not see where the shims are being installed(it can get pretty tight and invisible to see where the bolts/shims are going when the car is all together and you are at the track)you can simply orient the shim outside the car, then just make sure to feel the notch is in the correct location as you reassemble the suspension mounting point.

Sorry to muddle up this thread. Any further questions I would be happy to answer, but maybe we should do it in another thread?

The Stig

07-05-2013, 10:37 AM

Sorry to muddle up this thread. Any further questions I would be happy to answer, but maybe we should do it in another thread?

No worries Mike.

The Stig

07-06-2013, 06:12 PM

I finally got the side skirts mounted... Between the install of the skid system, and these skirts, I've really had to spend
quite a bit more time than I expected. I think I had them on and off about 5 or 6 times in order to get them fitted the
way I wanted. I think they look pretty good.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0210_zpsf5eb9986.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0210_zpsf5eb9986.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0211_zpscc60c0d0.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0211_zpscc60c0d0.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0212_zps7c17880e.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0212_zps7c17880e.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0213_zpscfda64d0.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0213_zpscfda64d0.jpg.html)

The Stig

07-06-2013, 06:14 PM

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0215_zps93c04430.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0215_zps93c04430.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0217_zps3dc3a6fe.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0217_zps3dc3a6fe.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0217_zps3dc3a6fe.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0217_zps3dc3a6fe.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0218_zps8d8eb8ce.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0218_zps8d8eb8ce.jpg.html)

The Stig

07-06-2013, 06:16 PM

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0220_zps225733d2.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0220_zps225733d2.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0221_zpsd484a2fc.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0221_zpsd484a2fc.jpg.html)

The Stig

07-06-2013, 10:18 PM

Initially I clamped the skirts in place, and made my marks for the 1/4"-20 screws.

Then I took them off and used a straight edge to draw a line to line up the holes. I made sure that the holes line up along the centerline of the frame rails. The ends are anchored into the body, with two Riv-nuts at each end.

They're mounted pretty firmly, but you sure don't want to step on them...

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0223_zps99a0dd74.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0223_zps99a0dd74.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0225_zps485acecd.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0225_zps485acecd.jpg.html)

The Aluminum Nose panels, and the Splitter are next... Fun Fun Fun...

Kempo

07-07-2013, 05:07 PM

Very nice Mike!!! IMO the side skirts really finish up the look of the car. Almost everyone that sees my car comments on how good the side skirts look.

mmaragos

07-08-2013, 12:57 PM

The Stig

07-08-2013, 07:38 PM

With your guys' side skirts, how was the CF weave? I had some cosmetic defects on one of mine. FFR replaced, but the replacement one also had defects. I was told by FFR that the defects were common and it was a crap shoot to get one without cosmetic defects. :( Just curious to know if yours are free from cosmetic issues or not.

I have two sets of skirts and splitters (for WHEN they get broken)... Both sets are as you describe. Most of the length is actually pretty good, with 1 or 2 strips that are wavy. I decided not to get to caught up with it...

I had originally thought of having them painted flat black and then cleared with Matt Clear. But I haven't gone there yet. I've also thought of having some 1/8" aluminum cut in the shape of the skirts to epoxy onto the bottom side in order to make them a little stronger.

Not sure if I would do that on the splitter since it need the "chance" to flex if it scrapes.

We'll see how it turns out. Right now I have bigger fish to fry...

Mike

The Stig

07-08-2013, 07:50 PM

Very nice Mike!!! IMO the side skirts really finish up the look of the car. Almost everyone that sees my car comments on how good the side skirts look.

Thanks Hugo! The skirts really do change to look of the car. So far though, I've only seen what it looks like with the car up in the air... I can't wait to get finished with everything underneath so I can get it back on the ground.

I need to get the aluminum nose panels and splitter installed.

Then I need to get the seats mounted, which means that I have to come up with a better solution for the seat slider "locks". I really want to have the sliders lock on both side instead of just one. But so far, I haven't come up with a good "compact" way of making it work... Suggestions would be appreciated!

I figure that I'll probably go ahead and change the oil while it's still on the jacks... I've been running the (and revving) the engine a bit over the past year. So I could probably stand to change the oil to get rid of any break-in related metal shavings. (And then again after a couple hundred miles.)

Still a bit to do in order to get it wrapped up, but at least now, I can see the finish line!!! Woo Hoo!!!

Mike

crash

07-09-2013, 09:23 AM

If I am not mistaken, Shane offers the side skirts in aluminum, so maybe you can get a set of his already designed and made skirts and put them underneath?

The Stig

07-09-2013, 10:39 AM

Mike, It's like you can read minds...

I thought of that last night as I was reading through the long list of items/parts that he makes for the GTM. I'm not sure if they are the same dimensions, but it should be easy enough to trim them down a bit so they'll fit.

I plan to call and order the side skirts this weekend.

Thanks. Mike

Aman

07-09-2013, 05:16 PM

Loving the updates Mike! Car is looking great

How did you end up securing the underpanels to the frame? A combo of rivets and machine screws? Tapped the frame tubes, rivnuts?

Thanks man
Aman

The Stig

07-09-2013, 10:15 PM

Loving the updates Mike! Car is looking great

How did you end up securing the underpanels to the frame? A combo of rivets and machine screws? Tapped the frame tubes, rivnuts?

Thanks man
Aman

Hi Aman. It's been a while... Thanks for the positive comments; much appreciated.

When I started measuring and marking the underside of the rockers in order to mount the side skirts, I realized that if i just drill a 25/64" hole through the body and into the frame, and then install the rivnuts, I might have a problem if I ever have to take the body back off. The rivnuts would have to be drilled out in order to allow the body to be removed. I thought about simply drilling and tapping the frame, and screwing the 1/4-20 screws directly into the frame; but I was concerned that there may not be enough metal to really grip the screws.

So I drilled my pilot holes (through the body and into the frame) to 1/4", then I used a 3/4" hole saw, to trim the fiberglass around the pilot hole (it also has a 1/4" bit). This opened the hole to the frame, and allowed me to then drill the 25/64" hole for the the Rivnuts, that sit down inside the openings in the rockers. Then I was able to just bolt the side skirts in place, and let them hold the underside of the rockers/body firmly in place. There are 10 screws per side. Six that bolt into the frame, and 4 that bolt into rivnuts that are set into the fibergalss behind the front wheels and ahead of the rear wheels (obviously).

I'll be taking the skirts back off and re-finshing them. (Sanding them down, spraying them again with a couple coats of clear, and then buffing them out to a show shine). As I said before, I had thought about painting them matte black, but decided against it. I think the color of the carbon fiber works better with the color of my car.

Anyway, when I get them off, I'll take a picture of the openings with the rivnuts in place. Others may want to do the same thing, or not. I think it was the right thing for me...

Take care Buddy.

Mike

Aman

07-09-2013, 10:58 PM

Sounds like an elegant solution Mike, thanks for the details! I will probably do the same, and definitely sold on the skirts after seeing them on your car.

I'm curious how you ended up securing all of the other underbody aluminum as well on the car. Did you keep it removable? I'm trying to decide between just rivets and 'non-removable', tapping the frame and machine screws, or rivnuts. I like your approach to things, curious what you went with.

Thanks!
Aman

The Stig

07-10-2013, 08:17 AM

Well, with Russ & David's skid system bolted to the main frame rails, you could let them hold the center aluminum panels in place; and I started to do that... But given the fact that I tend to over-think some of this stuff, I figured that if I went ahead and riveted them in place, along with the silicone sealer, I could maintain the strength that we get by "bonding" the panels to the frame. So that's what I did. That's why a couple of the skids appear to have a wavey look where they meet the panel. They're bolted against the rivets... I've thought of running them over a router table to take out about 1/8" to allow them clear the rivets and sit a little more flush. Mayby when I take them off again, I'll do that. We'll see. Once the car is on the ground, no one else will see them but me...

Take care.

Mike

Take Care,

Mike

mendo

07-10-2013, 08:58 AM

I've thought of running them over a router table to take out about 1/8" to allow them clear the rivets and sit a little more flush. Mayby when I take them off again, I'll do that.

When you take them off again, there will be a small dent right where the rivet it, just hit it with a drill there, BAM! it fits!

The Stig

07-10-2013, 03:31 PM

When you take them off again, there will be a small dent right where the rivet it, just hit it with a drill there, BAM! it fits!

You're right; that would be an easy way to do it. But I found out pretty quick that if you aren't very careful, the drill bit will go right through this nylon based material.

It's like once the bit digs in, it pulls it straight through... Or it least it did on one of the holes that I was working on.

That's why I was thinking I could use a router table that has a fence that I can hold the strip against.

That way I know that I'm only going to take out the amount of material that I want to.

Mike

carbon fiber

07-10-2013, 03:59 PM

19634you can use a countersink bit to drill them. it doesn't have the spiral design and won't dig in.

The Stig

07-10-2013, 04:13 PM

Hmmm. That could do it. I could use the drill press and just tap it into the rivet marks. I'll have to give that some thought.

mendo

07-11-2013, 09:44 AM

Hmmm. That could do it. I could use the drill press and just tap it into the rivet marks. I'll have to give that some thought. for that matter you could use your router bit in your drill press,

or a rough tip on a dremel, you don't have to take much out, maybe an 1/8th. I like this way because you leave all the rest of the piece fully flat so it supports the car when it sits on it.

mmaragos

07-11-2013, 10:51 AM

I have two sets of skirts and splitters (for WHEN they get broken)... Both sets are as you describe. Most of the length is actually pretty good, with 1 or 2 strips that are wavy. I decided not to get to caught up with it...

I had originally thought of having them painted flat black and then cleared with Matt Clear. But I haven't gone there yet. I've also thought of having some 1/8" aluminum cut in the shape of the skirts to epoxy onto the bottom side in order to make them a little stronger.

Not sure if I would do that on the splitter since it need the "chance" to flex if it scrapes.

We'll see how it turns out. Right now I have bigger fish to fry...

Mike

Thanks. Good to know I wasn't the only one. Just one of those things. In hindsight, I probably would do Shane's splitter and rocker extensions next time...or like you said, WHEN they get broken. LOL I hadn't given that a lot of thought, but you are right. :)

The Stig

07-11-2013, 09:18 PM

I like the rolled edge of the CF side skirts from Factory Five as opposed to the flat edge. So to combine the two would be the best of both worlds. I'm planning to call Shane tomorrow and order a set. It's not a lot of money to spend and easily double the strength of the skirts.

Mike

The Stig

07-13-2013, 10:09 PM

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/SplitterInstall005_zps39e11902.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/SplitterInstall005_zps39e11902.jpg.html)

I marked the aluminum for the nose and started trimming it in order for the metal to clear the radiator when the hood
is tilted up. So far, I've trimmed about 3 1/4" from the bend in the metal, and I'm still rubbing the radiator near the top.
So a little more trimming to get it right.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/GTMNoseAluminum2_zpsee4352ff.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/GTMNoseAluminum2_zpsee4352ff.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/GTMNoseAluminum1_zps85b9c479.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/GTMNoseAluminum1_zps85b9c479.jpg.html)

When you cut this section out of the panel, it becomes extremely flimsy. You will definitely need to use something to add
some strength back into it. I have some 1/2" steel as well as some "L" shaped aluminum stock that would also work.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/SplitterInstall009_zpsf14268b9.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/SplitterInstall009_zpsf14268b9.jpg.html)

The splitter is showing a couple of areas where it's delaminating, and causing color differences. You can see it in the bend
towards the driving light, and also at the very end of the splitter.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/SplitterInstall006_zps246875d5.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/SplitterInstall006_zps246875d5.jpg.html)

Here are a couple pictures of the nose with the splitter clamped into place.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/SplitterInstall007_zps0054bdeb.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/SplitterInstall007_zps0054bdeb.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/SplitterInstall010_zps7fad857f.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/SplitterInstall010_zps7fad857f.jpg.html)

This pictures shows the splitter and side skirt. Looks pretty good to me. However after seeing the discolored / delaminated
areas, I guess I need to re-consider having the splitter and skirts painted matte black in order to cover up the rough spots.
I do have a second set of skirts and a second splitter, but I'm not sure that I want to go through the process of drilling them out...

Steven K

07-13-2013, 10:15 PM

Looks great. How soon before you are on the road?

The Stig

07-13-2013, 10:53 PM

Looks great. How soon before you are on the road?

I could have it on the road in a couple of weeks. But I am still planning to send it to Chuck Hanna's shop in Mooresville to have the interior done.

He has said that it will take somewhere between 4 to 6 weeks to get it done... So it'll be a few weeks yet. It'll be at Cars and Coffee before you know it.

Take care Steve!

Mike

carbon fiber

07-14-2013, 10:27 AM

I sold all the cf pieces I bought from ffr. they are made with vinyl ester resin instead of epoxy resin, and are made in compression molds instead of being vacuum bagged. the front splitter had 1/8" to 1/4" of cloudy resin at the front edge where the cf wasn't even against the mold when it was made. I should have looked at them closely when I picked up my kit at the factory, I would have refused them on the spot.

The Stig

07-14-2013, 05:56 PM

Yep. $800.00 is a chunk of change to pay for CF parts that you end up needing to paint in order to make work... I bought the 2nd set at the open house for $400.00 or so.

So I have around $1200.00 tied up in the two sets, and if I remember correctly, they are both about the same in terms of appearance. I guess I need to dig through my attic and get the second set out, and compare them and figure out which ones are in the best shape.

If they're in better shape, I guess I'll need to start transfering measurements and marks... If they aren't, then I guess I'll need to contact Factory Five and talk about options.

The Stig

07-15-2013, 08:57 PM

Fraser D

07-15-2013, 09:09 PM

One option worth considering is to seal what you have then get them hydro dipped in a CF pattern.
They can match just about any color or pattern, then run a layer of clear over the top.
Love your build by the way.

carbon fiber

07-16-2013, 09:34 AM

everyone probably knows already I don't like any fake cf. the problem with the fake stuff is it doesn't have the reflective quality that real cf has. the light does a sort of dance as it moves over the surface. i'd go with a wrap if you don't want to paint it. just make sure you use vinyl/poly resin to match what it's made of.

Kempo

07-16-2013, 10:12 AM

Hugo,

If memory serves me, didn't I read in your build thread that you had your splitter and rocker extensions re-covered with carbon fiber? If so, did you also clear them?

I'd really like to keep the carbon fiber weave in the equation as far as the look of my car. Maybe this is a way to go about doing so.

Mike

Hi Mike,
None of the parts were recovered. The issue I had with my carbon fiber parts was that in some areas it had some white white spots. Most of them at the edge of the front splitter. I decided to paint that edge with a gray color that looks almost like the gray on the CF. That took care of the spots and after that all CF parts got clear coated. The rocker extensions also had some spots as well but a lot smaller and they are barely noticeable with the parts installed and with the clear coat applied. In other words you would have to be looking for the spots in order to notice them. In the pictures below you can see how much the clear coat hides imperfections on the CF.

This is the edge painted and diffuser before clear coat.

https://vk3lbw.sn2.livefilestore.com/y2pDwZgijJokkcAWFCQlLStmnHjO5bDaN4HezwYTkLYEyBvQd2 9sKo1r90-0Z28UtEIIA35Yz2c0OporyokM8saNMBOoBkL7vzBkIb2hNIkYW 9u2TtBnn1NYQIYkrptLyYy/IMG_1748.JPG?psid=1

https://vk3lbw.sn2.livefilestore.com/y2pWKolDDk10VUMp2z4oZiwVDLx3sMFOVZDSD-fpFOsLmtxZ7K1XfjTkkPSA0dNOh5TDM5-M9CXOyvM1D8zfBUB-MgIlSQTQ65mFydbDr7w-n7d5C-2EAHH-ipfM9QnJuFe/IMG_1747.JPG?psid=1

This is the result with the edge painted and clear on the resr of the parts.

https://vk3lbw.sn2.livefilestore.com/y2pEiUNbThMDaVU5zY61Yr98Ac2JfZlclHtlJqIv0ecvS6lMRY t2jeJ9h5JDr9uMTEVb-KzitsHtaUQUFLprxEn7x792GLnm0RJ1C6PyRezKEWHYjLtRq5y u3A8OATzuSJv/IMG_1758.JPG?psid=1

https://vk3lbw.sn2.livefilestore.com/y2pLVbhetAnesRLVZoxKE26LAmmkEAYusWwNtWaf1Zv9WLCTwQ 9XYtY1Lc1SNupqu7mLx904xZSivxZKFTEV7am2n77_8VS8V9i9 EpF3Hw-ZOepTJqSz-NUFob1TfNyd738/IMG_1757.JPG?psid=1

https://vk3lbw.sn2.livefilestore.com/y2ps9OpOrQ2YH9vWjax4AALAalJgAViBfcNGd7FHx3shQPT-5p73uKTFlf-XtoA87IFEWPOQCnKD9JZnZJlcqQ_zLHwdgEfta8UMY8EEauhRJ 6Si1lTAmbpdTQXu2P9p1f0/IMG_1756.JPG?psid=1

Kempo

07-16-2013, 10:20 AM

The edge looked like this when I got it.

https://vk3lbw.sn2.livefilestore.com/y2paWoCpJI7gwkSoRggjLZ5jRJa_2oODCdRIQXkVeqV7z9XpMj Foh0EifADyBV2P_wJFOLKqN0ZsiTvFgKwFMxw96mbpURGCmrUS 2llTrWmu4BXyVwFtnPLMEwi529rqnDC/IMG_0909.JPG?psid=1

https://vk3lbw.sn2.livefilestore.com/y2pv8TPJzNxcrw3GtWIqlfSgva-Dn4nVW-0q1t0Tr4KbY8mUXOhJwgJr7wqFOYScTIhxzJP6tB-lG2x7oyyDlMdDpre2mGAwydY105_aw-M3SHRA_jX_ZH0fajmsbQ-wMkB/IMG_0910.JPG?psid=1

The Stig

07-16-2013, 12:02 PM

Hugo,

Thanks for the info. Yours look much better than mine. The splitter that is currently on my car has the white resin spot at the end on the driver's side just before the wheel. There are also a couple of spots where the carbon weave looks like it was moved out of place when it was "bonded", causing it to have a couple of waves. Not the straight pattern that you would expect.

I'll take a look and see if painting the edge will solve the issue with the white resins spots. But the waves are there to stay I'm afraid; unless I can swap them out.

Also, just so everyone knows, I'm not complaining. I haven't even called Factory Five to speak with them about it yet. I have no doubt that if I call, they will do what they can to help make it right. I just saw these spots as I started working with these pieces, and started trying to find solutions that didn't involve shipping parts out, and waiting two weeks or so for the replacements...

Hugo, the peices that you edged and cleared look great. I already knew that I would have to sand and clear these pieces as well; so that's not an issue. These pieces get so much attention, and I just want them to look as good as I can make them look; just as you have done.

Thanks,

Mike

crash

07-16-2013, 01:07 PM

Look at it this way. The imperfections show that it is REAL carbon fiber mat and not a stick on...even if the lay up wasn't completely perfect.

VD2021

07-16-2013, 01:54 PM

Look at it this way. The imperfections show that it is REAL carbon fiber mat and not a stick on...even if the lay up wasn't completely perfect.

Over all my pieces are not too bad, but nowhere near perfect. I had the same outlook of the imperfections, highlighting that it's real cf, as I looked over them prior to mock install.

The Stig

07-16-2013, 02:29 PM

Hi Buddy! It's good to hear from you!

M.

sk7500

07-16-2013, 07:01 PM

The Stig

07-16-2013, 09:00 PM

https://vk3lbw.sn2.livefilestore.com/y2ps9OpOrQ2YH9vWjax4AALAalJgAViBfcNGd7FHx3shQPT-5p73uKTFlf-XtoA87IFEWPOQCnKD9JZnZJlcqQ_zLHwdgEfta8UMY8EEauhRJ 6Si1lTAmbpdTQXu2P9p1f0/IMG_1756.JPG?psid=1

Hugo...

How many coats of clear did you have to spray onto the diffuser before you had enough to start sanding smoothe for buffing? This looks great.

I realize that one side is already finished, and the other side isn't. I'm assuming that you finshed the other side as well...

Mike

VD2021

07-17-2013, 07:36 AM

Hi Buddy! It's good to hear from you!

M.

Just hanging out in the background:).

The Stig

07-20-2013, 09:02 PM

Scuff em, paint the resin pools black, clear coat everything, colorsand, cut and polish and it'll look like a million bucks. :o

Something I did to our front splitter is to get some tee molding from McMaster Carr screw it onto the front edge from underneath. That way when you forget to raise the front end (and you will forget at least once) it'll scrape a replaceable vinyl strip and not the CF piece you will have to repair an re clear. You'll also find that front edge of the splitter takes a lot of abuse from rocks and bugs. The vinyl doesn't care the paint sure will.
Here is the polyethylene strip I used.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#t-molding/=nnhtxj

Windshield T molding would work also. Zoom in on the front splitter and you'll see it.

Hi Steve.

I broke down and dove into the "Walk-In" attic... Right now, it should be called the "Wade Through" attic. How can so much stuff accumulate in such a short period of time? It's a mystery to me. Almost as much as the way that anytime you need something from the attic, it always ends up in the back, behind all the stuff that has accumulated over the past 3 or 4 years, and that hasn't been seen or touched in the same amount of time...

I was finally able to reach the spare set of rocker extensions and splitter. Once I got it out to the Garage, and unpackaged, I realized pretty quick that this set was in much better shape (in appearance) than the first set. So I went ahead and drilled the splitter and got it mounted. I'm still going to sand and paint the edge as Hugo mentioned. Once it's been cleared and buffed, I think it'll look as nice as yours and Hugo's. We'll see anyway.

Take care Buddy!

Mike

The Stig

07-20-2013, 09:06 PM

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/GTMNoseAluminum1_zps85b9c479.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/GTMNoseAluminum1_zps85b9c479.jpg.html)

One of the reasons that I wasn't able to get the nose panel trimmed so that it wouldn't hit the radiator,
was due to the hinges. They came into contact with the panel with the hood completely closed. So when
I raised the hood they pushed down against the panel, which actually pushed it into the radiator when the
hood was about 3/4 opened.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/GTMNoseAluminum2_zpsee4352ff.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/GTMNoseAluminum2_zpsee4352ff.jpg.html)

In this picture, you can see a small notch at the rear of the panel, to help with the hinge. That wasn't enough... So I
packed it in for the night, and figured it wouldn't be as frustrating in the morning...

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0305_zps8e43c5a5.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0305_zps8e43c5a5.jpg.html)

I was right... In this picture you can see how I opend the panel up to clear the hinges by
about a 1/2" on each side. This did the trick. I then took the original 2" section that I trimmed
out of the center and drilled it for rivets. I attached it using Clear Silicone and 1/8" rivets.
This made the panel much more ridgid again. It was pretty flimsy before I added this strip back
on. I may still need to add something to the sides, but I'll wait until I can drive it at speed, to
decide whether or not I need to strengthen it any more.

The Stig

07-20-2013, 09:09 PM

It's time to finally get the splitter mounted...

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0307_zps0c3275f2.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0307_zps0c3275f2.jpg.html)

I ran some painters tape around the angle line of the splitter, in order to give a reference as to where I wanted to position
it on the nose. I drilled some 1/8" pilot holes, and used clekos to hold it in place so I could crawl out from under the car for
30/11th time, and see how it looked.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0308_zpse4adfa57.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0308_zpse4adfa57.jpg.html)

It looked good to me, so started drilling 1/4" holes, then 5/16", and then 25/64" for the 1/4"-20 rivnuts.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0310_zps56ce3b02.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0310_zps56ce3b02.jpg.html)

I don't know about you guys, but I can't stand to lay on bare concrete. My back and hips
just can't take it anymore. That's why you see layers of cardboard boxes under the car.
Believe it or not, that little bit of cardboard makes the difference in me being able to get
under this thing and climb back out over and over and over...

MAN am I glad to almost be finished with the bottom side of this thing.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0313_zps552a5314.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0313_zps552a5314.jpg.html)

It really feels good to have this nose panel in place, and finally have the splitter mounted.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0314_zps26d22b0b.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0314_zps26d22b0b.jpg.html)

One of the things that you have to be careful of when drilling the holes in the underside "rim" of the nose, is making sure that
you're not too far forward, or too far back. You want your bolts to be as close to the center of the fiberglass flange as you
can get it, so the rivnut will seat correctly, and so your drill bit doesn't do dammage to the face of the lower nose. I was
a little nervous when I got to the 25/64" bit that was about 6" long... That thing has a mind of it's own if you don't take your
time and go very slow... Luckily it worked out well.

I'm not sure if you can tell by this picture; but I took my Buddy (Vidal's) advice and purchased a couple of cans of black radiator paint.
I sprayed a light coat from the front in order to make the radiator invisible from the front. It worked well on his car, and I think it
did the trick on mine too. You can find it at Eastwood restoration products, if you're interested. www.eastwood.com (http://www.eastwood.com)
I doubt that I used 1/4 can.

Kempo

07-20-2013, 10:14 PM

Hugo...

How many coats of clear did you have to spray onto the diffuser before you had enough to start sanding smoothe for buffing? This looks great.

I realize that one side is already finished, and the other side isn't. I'm assuming that you finshed the other side as well...

Mike

Mike,

It has 3 coats of clear. The other side and the edge were painted black.

fact5racer

07-21-2013, 05:35 PM

I could have it on the road in a couple of weeks. But I am still planning to send it to Chuck Hanna's shop in Mooresville to have the interior done.

He has said that it will take somewhere between 4 to 6 weeks to get it done... So it'll be a few weeks yet. It'll be at Cars and Coffee before you know it.

Take care Steve!

Mike

Man, you may beat me yet!

The Stig

07-21-2013, 10:13 PM

Man, you may beat me yet!

LOL!!! Not hardly... Let's see, you had the Orange GTM about half done when I bought mine. Then you built the Gold GTM. Then you Built the 33 Hot Rod, Then you built the Koni GTM, and now you're almost done with your latest GTM... I'd say that you have pretty much all of us beat. :cool:

But I am ready to get it finished.

I can't wait to see your car when it's finished. I also can't wait to see a video of your car getting up to speed. It should be pretty interesting.

Take care Buddy!

Mike

M.

The Stig

08-06-2013, 12:07 PM

The Stig

08-11-2013, 09:43 PM

Man was it ever hot in Charlotte this weekend... Whew! 95 degrees plus humidity = heat index 105...

I spent the day Saturday, getting the seats mounted. I got them situated, marked, and drilled. Then I did a test fit... (Not easy to do when you're working by yourself)...

Once I got them in, I took them back out.

Question: Has anyone come up with a solution for getting both sides of the seat sliders to lock & unlock with one handle?

Also: What size bolts are you using to anchor the seats in place? I don't have the (Seat Hardware) bolts that originally came with the kit. I used 1/4-20 bolts just to get the seats located and temporarily installed. But I want to make sure that the permanent bolts are strong enough to keep the seats where they're supposed to be. I'm thinking 1/2" automotive rated bolts, but any suggestions are much welcomed.

- I need to get the firewall (rear cockpit window, tank covers, and the engine cover) re-installed, and water tight. The toughest part of the firewall install (at least for me), is securing the seatbelt anchor bolts. I would imagine that it might be a little easier if I took the rear hatch off the car. This would give me a little more access to reach into the upper corners to get the nut started. With the hatch (and hinges) in place, it's pretty much impossible for me to reach in, find the bolt, get the nut started, and then get a socket on it to tighten it down. I just hate having to reinstall and realign it again... Fun Fun Fun!

- Finish waterproofing the dash and the floor.

- Finish installing the DynaMat & Quiet Ride interior sound deadener and heatshield.

- Re-Install the seats...

- Then... I finally get to tackle the gauge and mirror control wiring.

- I need to install a latch for the rear hatch, but I don't want to use the latch that came with the kit. Something in the range of a BMW or Mercedes trunk latch would work. I would imagine that I can find them on E-bay.

- I need a windsheild wiper linkage bar to fit between the wiper motor and the wiper transmission. I was thinking of using a tie rod with connectors on each end...

sk7500

08-12-2013, 02:18 AM

Doesn't sound like the heat slowed you down one bit. Those rear seat belt bolts are a real PITA. We're using 4 1/4 x 20 bolts to hold the seats in. My thoughts are that if we were ever in an accident it's the seatbelt bolts that would take all the stress. And those are 1/2" grade 5 bolts. Seat bolts just have to hold the seat in place. We used a single latch on our seat adjuster slide and only on the drivers side as me and my partner are not the same height. I know some racing applications require both slides to have a latch, but a single latch works fine in a street application.

The Stig

08-12-2013, 08:14 AM

sk7500

08-12-2013, 12:26 PM

Still on vacation but I can slip away every once in a while to feed my GTM addiction. We ordered our slides with a single latch so there was no removal needed.

mmaragos

08-12-2013, 12:38 PM

I used a latch from a C4. Built a simple sheet metal piece / bracket to hold it, etc.

It looks like this...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/C4-Corvette-Rear-Window-Latch-Solenoid-/171077698055?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%2 52BFICS%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D190876748434%26ps%3D54

Still working on adjusting the position, but I need to add the seals first. Right now, it doesn't 'pop' when I release it.

The Stig

08-23-2013, 02:06 PM

How Cool is this !?!...

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0411_zps63a58a20.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0411_zps63a58a20.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0410_zpsfb390303.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0410_zpsfb390303.jpg.html)

This is one of the coolest things I've ever had... A scale replica of a car that I built... Wow.

Thank you Steve. This is absolutely awesome to me.

Mike

Aman

08-23-2013, 02:17 PM

that is awesome. One in the garage, and one for the living room or study. I love it

Kempo

08-23-2013, 02:39 PM

Stage7

08-23-2013, 02:55 PM

Very cool...

On another note-STIG-let's plan the car meet!!!

The Stig

08-24-2013, 10:05 PM

Very cool...

On another note-STIG-let's plan the car meet!!!

I agree! I can't wait to hear that beast of yours run! And it would be great to see Allan again!

I have finally finished everything underneath the car, except alignment: and that's going to be farmed out, I think. I put the "firewall" back into the car this afternoon. What a PITA that was... Riv-Nuts kept spinning on me. So I had to keep taking the window back out and replacing riv-nuts. It took me 4 trys to get the danged thing back in. I finally figured out an easy way (easier at least) to bolt the seatbelt shoulder anchors in place. Before the tank covers were installed, it dawned on me that I could reach around to the back side and hold the lock nuts in place while I tightened the down the anchor bolts. I got the sound deadener on the floor, on both sides. Got the seats measured and drilled for mounting.

And then I ran out of time... I'll be adding the heat barrier next weeked, and then putting the seats in.

I have to find some help to wire the gauges and the mirrors, And then it will go to Chuck Hannah (Hot Rod Interiors by Chuck).

When He's done with it, I will be too! And then I can start planning the east and west coast trips that Pam and I want to do.

David

08-25-2013, 02:00 PM

Mike, you are really doing an INCREDIBLE job on the car. It's turned out as one of the nicest I've seen. You should be very proud of that accomplishment friend!

Can't wait to see it on the road and you hitting the cars and coffee's with it!

BTW , the model of your car is the coolest. I don't know about the back story, but that's something to really cherish.

Take car, David

The Stig

08-25-2013, 07:18 PM

Thanks Dave! Coming from THE person who set the bar so high from the start, that means more to me than you'll ever know. When Pam and make our run down the PCH, I hope you know that stopping to see you and Mary is definitely on our high priority list. Plus I really want to see your Mk-IV. :cool:

But first, I have to get it finished...

Thank you Dave. You've made my day... Again.

Mike

Taz Rules

08-26-2013, 09:58 PM

My wife called to let me know that the aluminum side skirts that I ordered from Shane, were delivered yesterday. So I guess this weekend, I'll be pulling the CF skirts off to transfer the marks to drill the holes for the aluminum pieces. I plan to use clear silicone to join these two pieces, and provide more strength to the side skirts. Then I'll get them back onto the car.

M.

Hey Mike,
Are you worried about galvanic corrosion between the CF and the aluminum? I understand that can be a problem, and the location of the skirts will certainly be the most prone to water contact to create an electrolyte.

Maybe a layer of FG between the CF and aluminum?

The Stig

08-27-2013, 08:06 AM

Hey Mike,
Are you worried about galvanic corrosion between the CF and the aluminum? I understand that can be a problem, and the location of the skirts will certainly be the most prone to water contact to create an electrolyte.

Maybe a layer of FG between the CF and aluminum?

I really hadn't thought to much about aluminum contact with carbon fiber... I've only heard that there was a chance of reaction when steel and aluminum were fastened against each other. I.E., aluminum rivets in steel tubing... I suppose that if this is an issue, I could always get a layer of 1/16 rubber sheeting, and cut a "barrier" layer to put between the aluminum and the "CF".

But from what I understand, these splitters and skirts are Gel coat, topped with a layer of Carbon fiber sheeting. The aluminum would be mated against the Gel coat.

Some one please tell me if I am wrong.

Thanks,

Mike

crash

08-27-2013, 09:16 AM

mmaragos

08-27-2013, 09:34 AM

I would worry about galvanic corrosion between CF and Aluminum if I was building an air frame and the two were bonded together - it would weaken the bond. In your application, I don't see any concerns.

Taz Rules

08-27-2013, 10:11 AM

I have never heard of any issues of galvanic corrosion between CF and metals. Suppose it could happen since carbon is an excellent conductor of electrons, but I think it would be more of a conduit between two dissimilar metal elements as opposed to creating the issue itself, but I have never really looked into it. I CAN tell you that battery boxes should NOT be made out of CF. The Hybrib Electric Vehicle I worked on in college had a battery tray and someone got the bright idea to make one out of CF as opposed to FG so it would "look cool". The ensuing fire when the battery terminals hit the box while it was in the car almost ended the entire program! You know, typical college engineering class stuff...it looked so good on paper...until the epic fail in practice! :) (not my call, BTW, as I was involved with making the three cylinder diesel fit and operate. If not for the instructor, it would have been a very fun senior project)

I don't pretend to be an expert on the matter by any means, but I heard this could be a problem and looked it up. Here is where I got my info...

From Boeing.com (http://www.boeing.com/commercial/aeromagazine/aero_07/corrosn.html)

Galvanic coupling of materials.
Boeing groups materials into four categories (table 1) of differing galvanic properties. The objective is to avoid coupling materials from different groups unless required by economic and weight considerations. If dissimilar metal coupling is required, proper finishing and sealing techniques and guidelines are used to prevent corrosion.

For example, graphite fibers, which are used to reinforce some plastic structure, present a particularly challenging galvanic corrosion combination. The fibers are good electrical conductors and they produce a large galvanic potential with the aluminum alloys used in airplane structure. The only practical, effective method of preventing corrosion is to keep moisture from simultaneously contacting aluminum structure and carbon fibers by finishing, sealing, using durable isolating materials such as fiberglass, and providing drainage. Figure 14 shows the 777 carbon fiber-reinforced plastic (CFRP) floor beam design and corrosion-protection methods. An aluminum splice channel is used to avoid attaching the floor beam directly to the primary structural frame.

From www.sciencedirect.com (http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1359836811003350)

We investigate whether the presence of carbon nanotubes in previously non-conductive composites may cause galvanic corrosion. We focus on aluminum 7075 alloy and glass fiber-reinforced polymers (GFRP), where the epoxy resin is modified with multi-walled carbon nanotubes (MWCNTs). Whole aluminum bars were bonded with MWCNT/GFRP in a co-cure, or were connected electrically with the composite through a galvanic cell.

The investigation includes characterization of the treated and baseline epoxy resin, high humidity tests at room temperature, full immersion tests in an aggressive environment, and standard galvanic coupling tests in an aggressive environment.

Results show that coupling MWCNT/GFRP samples with aluminum 7075 causes approximately doubled corrosion rate and mass loss rate compared to baseline GFRP samples. We envision that this work will impact the research community and indicate the need of careful coupling selection and careful surface treatment between nanomaterials and conventional materials, since the ability to monitor damage in situ is very desirable.

Also, without bothering to quote it here, found articles in The International Journal of Advanced Manufacturing Technology (http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2Fs00170-012-4568-3), and a document from the National Air Intelligence Center titled Contact Corrosion Between Carbon Fiber Reinforced Composite Materials and High-Strength Metals (http://www.dtic.mil/cgi-bin/GetTRDoc?AD=ADA300630)

I agree with mmargos in that all of my references are from the aerospace industry, and likely don't apply to the stresses that your parts will see. Still, I thought it worth a mention, just in case.

If the CF parts are gelcoat, then you have an insulating barrier and the problem is solved anyway. Since the pieces you are talking about are not load-bearing, you should be ok in any case. Still, I wouldn't attach carbon fiber directly to my frame or an aluminum structural support, just in case. Even the aluminum inner panels that come with the GTM, as I understand it, provide a certain amount of structure, and the material is pretty thin, so there isn't much available to sacrifice.

The Stig

08-27-2013, 10:17 AM

I agree with mmargos in that all of my references are from the aerospace industry, and likely don't apply to the stresses that your parts will see. Still, I thought it worth a mention, just in case.

If the CF parts are gel coat, then you have an insulating barrier and the problem is solved anyway. Since the pieces you are talking about are not load-bearing, you should be ok in any case. Still, I wouldn't attach carbon fiber directly to my frame or an aluminum structural support, just in case. Even the aluminum inner panels that come with the GTM, as I understand it, provide a certain amount of structure, and the material is pretty thin, so there isn't much available to sacrifice.

The only Carbon Fiber pieces that I am aware of, that could come in contact with any aluminum or steel, might be the dash and engine cover, if you have one of the early GTM's (as I do).

My engine cover is insulated inside, and I will probably not be using the dash since I'm having a complete custom interior installed. For that matter, the engine cover may be replaced also. So I think I'll be fine in that respect.

I appreciate your concern.

Thanks,

Mike

The Stig

09-01-2013, 09:05 PM

I got the firewall and engine cover back in place, so I spent Saturday getting the sound deadener and heat shield installed in order to get the seats in. It took me most of the day to cut the dynamat to size and installed. I pulled the A/C blower out of the passenger foot box to get better access, and got everything sealed tight and covered in dynamat. I ordered the pre-cut insulation kit, which makes the job a little easier.

But the heat and humidity here in Charlotte has been a killer... By the time I finally finished the footbox, I was completely done. I woke up this morning feeling pretty wiped out, so I decided to take the day off from the garage.

Pam and I drove up to Lake Norman, and had a late lunch on the water. It was a very nice day. Right now, I'm feeling much better, and plan to try to get outside for a while tomorrow morning for 2 or 3 hours. Still making progress a little at the time. :)

LCD Gauges

09-02-2013, 07:39 AM

Page 17 - no photos.

There must be a law!

The Stig

09-02-2013, 10:59 AM

True... I'll work on that... :cool:

The Stig

09-03-2013, 08:42 AM

I'm working on getting the "dynamat" sound deadener and heat shield installed. So far I've finished most of the passenger side. I'm working from home this week, so I should have some time in the evenings to do a little work here and there. If so, I should have driver and passenger sides finished up this week. I also plan to have the seats in as well.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0430_zpsba835d69.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0430_zpsba835d69.jpg.html)

In this picture, you can see that the sound deadener (dynamat) is on the floor. The heat barrier has been applied to the side panel between the frame.
I had to pull the a/c blower out of the way to get access to the panels in the foot box.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0433_zpsfb3e16e1.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0433_zpsfb3e16e1.jpg.html)
You can also see the courtesy light for the foot box temporarily mounted on the upper frame bar. These will be permenantly located when the interior goes in.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0434_zpsb677841f.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0434_zpsb677841f.jpg.html)
I still have a couple more strips to add to the body panel below the windshield.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0435_zps053987f3.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0435_zps053987f3.jpg.html)
I almost for got to add the side panels back in. I pulled out the heat shield to do a test fit, and to trim it, and there was no panel to put it on... duhhh.

Then I realized that the engine cover and tank covers will need to come out one last time in order to apply the heat barrier correctly on the tunnel pannels.

The Stig

09-03-2013, 08:57 AM

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0436_zpsabf42b46.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0436_zpsabf42b46.jpg.html)

Placing these panels into such tight spaces with contact cement on each side can be a little tricky. I trimed each piece until I had
them fitting against one another kind of snug but not enough to bunch up. I'm trying to keep everything as flat as possible for the
leather upholstery to lay flat and clean.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0437_zps34cd1de6.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0437_zps34cd1de6.jpg.html)

Test fitting the tunnel panels. It took a few passes with the scissors, but they're pretty close.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0438_zps079e016e.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0438_zps079e016e.jpg.html)

Here, you can see the foot box, forward tunnel and the seat pan/floor, have all been installed.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0439_zpsdc1f3c37.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0439_zpsdc1f3c37.jpg.html)

That was about as clean as I can make it.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0440_zps680c1e7c.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0440_zps680c1e7c.jpg.html)

When I have time to take the tank covers and the engine cover back out (maybe tonight), I can go ahead and get the rear tunnel panels, and the side panels covered and reinstalled.

I still need to go back and tape all the seams with aluminum tape to finish it up.

I'm not really looking forward to working around the pedals while trying to keep the contact glue from grabbing before I'm ready... but it'll get done.

My brother-in-law is comming over (not this coming Saturday, but the next) to help me with sorting out the wiring of the gauges.

Then (as i've said many times) it goes to the Interior shop...

Kempo

09-03-2013, 09:25 AM

Looking nice and clean Mike. I used 3M spray glue for mine. It was a bit less messy than using contact cement. I found it easier to work in the the pedal area by just unscrewing the master cylinder rods from the pedals and just lifting the pedals out of the way. Your back will thank you. Keep up the good work and the updates coming.

The Stig

09-03-2013, 11:42 AM

Thanks Hugo. The contact adheasive that I used is a 3M product. I don't know the exact name without going out to take a look at the can. It came with the Quiet-Ride Insullation kit that I'm using.

I actually thought of disconnecting the pedals as well. It would make it much easier to gain access to that area. I've also been playing with the idea of switching the old "Gen-1" pedal set for the new "Gen-2" pedals because they looks so much nicer and appear to be much stronger. I just hate to remove and replace anything when I'm so close to finishing... But they sure would look better!

I think I'll go ahead and order them so I won't have a reason not to do it. Now would be the perfect time.

kabacj

09-03-2013, 12:43 PM

The Stig

09-03-2013, 01:35 PM

Looks Great Stig! As someone who also spent his weekend working inside the GTM passenger compartment I feel your pain! I can apreaciate all contorting you did to get that installed.
Thanks for posting the Quiet-Ride info. I have seen that installed, but I did not realize it was a kit. Sure must make the install easier. Although my car is more race car then street car, at some point I will want to add sound deddening . Thanks for posting the info.

John

Thanks John. I'm glad that the post helped.

Yep. My back was telling me over and over that I was too old to be twisting around like that... It also showed me that there are so many things that I would sequence differently if I were to ever build another GTM. I would have definitely put this stuff in the back of the footbox while all of the dash panels were out. I would have also installed the roof heat shield while the body was off the car, and prior to paint so I could flip it upside down either on the grass or on a couple of stands so I could get to it easier.

Live and learn I guess... Going through the process of building this car has taught me more than I would have thought. With most of it having nothing to do with building cars...

Take care Buddy.

sk7500

09-03-2013, 02:25 PM

Sure is a good looking car in the GTM calendar this month.

The Stig

09-03-2013, 07:31 PM

Yep, that's another cool thing that you made happen for me and the other builders! Cool Stuff!

Thank you.

Mike

The Stig

09-08-2013, 07:45 PM

I got the Driver's side heat shield insulation pretty much done... So imagine all the pictures from post 652 & 653 (and invert them) and you'll see where I am right now. :) My brother in law is coming over on Saturday to help me with getting the gauges and mirrors wired.

Once again... Almost done!

LCD Gauges

09-08-2013, 08:14 PM

Love the aluminum shift plate; I've been thinking about something along those lines for my car (brushed). Did you have that custom made, or cut it yourself?

WIS89

09-08-2013, 08:39 PM

Stig-

Your car is truly a work of art! I don't know how you did all that insulation work in that small area in the heat we have had here recently. However, you did a wonderful job, just like everything else you have done on your car!

Keep up the great work, and thanks for the updates. I can't wait to see her all finished; I am sure it is going to be stunning!!

The finish line is getting really close...

Regards,

Steve

The Stig

09-08-2013, 09:34 PM

Love the aluminum shift plate; I've been thinking about something along those lines for my car (brushed). Did you have that custom made, or cut it yourself?

A couple of years ago, a forum member on the ffcars forum (Steve Inskeep) sold these for a short period of time. I bought one from him so I could get it and decide whether or not I could use it in the final design or not. You can see his GTM in the Finished GTM's thread. Silver, with a custom nose that looks a little like a Camaro.

It holds the HVAC Controls, Power Windows, Mirror Control, and Shifter. It was meant to be something a bit more substantial than the thin steel plate that comes with the kit. It's 3/8" or so thick, the top is brushed and the edges are polished. I'm going to try to make sure it stays in the final design of the interior... We'll see.

The Stig

09-08-2013, 09:51 PM

Thank You Steve.

You're right; the heat has been too much. And to be wedged into the foot boxes with the sun and the heat, didn't really help too much either. But I had to get it done. Gator-Aid, Water, and Vitamin Water helped a good bit.

All of these "last steps", to get this thing finished are all extremely time consuming; at least for me... I'm trying to take my time and not screw it up.

But you're right... It's getting much closer now. I had hoped that I would be finished by the time the "Charlotte Auto-Fair" Car Show came around this fall. But unfortunately, it'll be a little after that show... This car doesn't seem to like Car Show deadlines for some reason.

The Stig

09-15-2013, 09:29 PM

I've been wanting to switch my brake pedals from the original Wilwood set, to the new set that come with the Gen II GTM kit. The biggest issue with it, was knowing what a monumental task it was going to be, with the body and dash panel mounted. So I waffled back and forth on whether I really wanted to tackle it...

About a week ago, I decided that I wasn't going to swap them out if I didn't actually buy them and get them in the "shop". So I call Wilwood, and had a set sent to me...

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/WilwoodPedals340-11295-lg_zpsc9126904.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/WilwoodPedals340-11295-lg_zpsc9126904.jpg.html)
After pretty much an entire afternoon of cursing, and disassembly, and cursing, and more disassembly, and cursing... I got the original set out.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0467_zps28ea4927.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0467_zps28ea4927.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0466_zpsa42ee666.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0466_zpsa42ee666.jpg.html)

While I hade the brake and clutch pedals out, I decided to go ahead and finish up the sound deadener and heat insulation in the driver side footbox...

The Stig

09-15-2013, 09:40 PM

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0462_zpsd5655f7b.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0462_zpsd5655f7b.jpg.html)

Obviously, to get the pedals out, the mater cylinders have to be disconnected from the pedal studs... No problem. A 7/16" open end wrench and I was on my way... That worked fine for the top bolts... but let me tell you, getting to the bottom bolts is a Pain In The A$$$$$$!

Especially if you have installed Ted Harrison's Front Sway Bar Kit.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0461_zps5e435580.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0461_zps5e435580.jpg.html)

So I had to disconnect both of the blades (arms) from the torsion bar, and then pull the bar out from under the master cylinders, in order to get the clearance that I needed to get to the fasteners.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0458_zps5ece0f43.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0458_zps5ece0f43.jpg.html)

With the torsion bar pulled back, was able to get closer to the nuts on the bottom of the master cylinders, but I still couldn't get a straight shot at them with the socket extension. So I had to use a swivel attachment on the extension, in order to get the right angle.

Understand, I have medium sized hands, and I could barely get in to manually place the swivel socket in place, and then manually back the nut off by hand, so it wouldn't drop into the twilight zone. If you're a big guy, you'll probably have to disconnect the brake lines to get the access that you'll need.

I finally got them off and was able to move the master cylinders forward just enough to clear the studs, while also being very careful to not disturb the brake and clutch lines that were still connected.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0460_zps2d1e21ee.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0460_zps2d1e21ee.jpg.html)

Once I backed off the fasteners from the mounting tabs inside the foot box, I had one bolt that I could not remove, due to there being an aluminum panel riveted in place 1/2" above it. I ended up having to cut an access hole just above the bolt, so I could push the bolt up through it, freeing the pedals.

By this time, I was 100% committed to getting these pedals out and replacing them with the newer and stronger version. After more cursing, and struggling to get the pedals to free themselves, I found myself reminding "me" that I was doing this ONLY because I decided I liked the newer pedals more than the original set.

The Stig

09-15-2013, 10:07 PM

I have to say that the new pedals went in much quicker and easier than the removal of the old ones.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0469_zps6204bcab.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0469_zps6204bcab.jpg.html)

By the time I got to this stage, where I had the pedals installed, and the master cylinders re-connected, and the sway bar re-connected, and the front tires put back on the car.... I was completely worn out. I could not wedge myself upside down and backwards into the foot box again, for fear of not being able to get back out. I had climbed in and out of that foot box 10 or 15 times easy. Going in was easy enough, but getting back out was tough, and kept getting tougher.

So I still have to connect the master cylinder rods to the pedals... That will be my project for this coming Friday. Not the easiest of tasks when you're wedged into such a tight space and you can't position your hand exactly where you need it. But it has to happen; so it will.

So I have to make my work on Friday count. I figured it would be much easier to handle when I'm rested again.

Saturday will be spent walking around the Charlotte Motor Speedway, taking in all the cars at the Food Lion Auto Fair / Car Show this weekend with my nephew. I'm really looking forward to it. He's about as big of a car guy as I am. It should be fun. I'm trying to talk him into doing a Cobra Build.

But at least I was able to finally get this "mini project" behind me, and MAN does it feel good!

The Stig

09-15-2013, 10:21 PM

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0459_zps9ddd3d28.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0459_zps9ddd3d28.jpg.html)

After cutting the relief hole to remove the pedal bracket fastener, I'm left with a hole that looks a little butchered. I plan to close it up with some dynamat sound deadening material. That way it will be sealed, and if I ever have to get in there again, I can.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0468_zps57a95803.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0468_zps57a95803.jpg.html)

I had to get a little creative when I was backing out the forward bolts from the foot box bracket. I used a breaker bar that was long enough to sit between a couple of solid parts to hold it still while I backed off the nut from inside.

These pedals were not meant to be removed once the dash panels and the body has been permenantly installed.

Would I do this again, knowing what I know now? Probably. But only because I have a certain look that I'm hoping to get with the interior, and the original pedals didn't really fit with that look. If I were doing an all black interior, I would have been fine with leaving them in.

Kempo

09-15-2013, 10:59 PM

Way to go Mike. Those small details are what make a car stand out at the end.

The Stig

09-17-2013, 10:20 PM

Way to go Mike. Those small details are what make a car stand out at the end.

Thanks Hugo. It wasn't fun, but I feel much better now that the new set is in.

Mike

The Stig

09-21-2013, 07:30 AM

So... I'm guessing that the GTM was not designed to fit comfortably when you're upside down and backwards... My wife, Pam, took this picture of me while I was connecting the master cylinder rods to the brake and clutch pedals. I ended up having to run a 5/16"-24 tap into the threads to get rid of the powder coating that got into the threads. But once I did that, they went in pretty easy.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0479_zps5fe837d0.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0479_zps5fe837d0.jpg.html)

And here they are, DONE!
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_0486_zpsbb8250fb.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_0486_zpsbb8250fb.jpg.html)

Now I can go to the Autofair Car Show.

Mike

sk7500

09-21-2013, 08:25 AM

Taz Rules

09-21-2013, 03:07 PM

Sexy legs, Mike

Ever considered spinning on a pole to help fund your car?

:p

The Stig

09-21-2013, 08:25 PM

Nope! I know myself well enough to know that there's no money to be made there...

Boz1911

09-22-2013, 04:51 AM

Car: Drop dead sexy!!

Stig's legs: Not so much........

The Stig

09-22-2013, 03:57 PM

Car: Drop dead sexy!!

Stig's legs: Not so much........

Thank you! According to my wife, this picture was more about wondering how I was going to get back out, than my legs... But I actually apprecaite your assessment. :)

Mike

The Stig

09-23-2013, 08:07 AM

Ive been in that position on both sides. Neither side fit me very well. Then I tried feet first. Fits much better.

Sure is great when you have a helper, because its a real dud to have to get out of that position to get the next size tool. ;)

You're right. But my helper went back inside after she took her pictures... To be fair though, she always asks whether or not there is anything that she can do to help, and it always seems that at the time she asks I'm doing something that only one person can do... So she does try pretty often to help.

The Stig

09-24-2013, 07:44 PM

I met a really cool guy at the Charlotte AutoFair this past weekend. Chris Knox from Lenoir, NC.

Jeff Collins asked whether or not I had seen Chris' GTM. He had it parked on the back stretch of the speedway, and I hadn't been all the way around yet. So I walked back and saw this really COOL black GTM with a crowd of people around it.

My nephew and I walked up to take a look, and saw Rick Williams there talking to Chris. (A two-for-one...). So I was able to catch up with one friend, and make another. It was a good day.

Chris spent a little time showing us around his car, explaining things that he did. This is a VERY nice clean build. See for yourself. Dave Borden, does this car look familiar to you?

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/Car%20Shows/IMG_0522_zps94e7fa60.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/Car%20Shows/IMG_0522_zps94e7fa60.jpg.html)

Chris did his own upholstery. Very nice. He also included all of the Corvette electronics, including the Heads-Up display. Another thing that stood out to me, was the use of a charcoal color powder-coating on the panels. Nice contrast against the PERFECT black paint! Also, if you look closely, you'll see an OEM fluid tank that he cut and "re-welded", and then placed as a wrap around at the master cylinders. I thought that was really cool.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/Car%20Shows/IMG_0521_zps8cb7e2c9.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/Car%20Shows/IMG_0521_zps8cb7e2c9.jpg.html)

He also fabbed some sweet window frames on the doors. Very cool.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/Car%20Shows/IMG_0520_zpsbf7d0b91.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/Car%20Shows/IMG_0520_zpsbf7d0b91.jpg.html)
I'm trying to locate a nice latch and striker for the rear hatch of my car. So I was paying close attention to the set up that Chris used.
C5 rear hatch striker and latch.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/Car%20Shows/IMG_0519_zpsc73d96f3.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/Car%20Shows/IMG_0519_zpsc73d96f3.jpg.html)

I'm sure that the personal plate correctly describes this car...

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/Car%20Shows/IMG_0523_zps8b33f1fc.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/Car%20Shows/IMG_0523_zps8b33f1fc.jpg.html)

Nice latch bracket and cover... The Borlas are pretty cool too!

LCD Gauges

09-24-2013, 08:03 PM

Nice interior accents! He using similar mufflers as my build, therefore he is cool.

The rear mesh, muffler cutouts look great.

The Stig

09-24-2013, 08:09 PM

When I got home, I started thinking about the latch and striker set up that Chris used. I figured that I would start asking around to find out how to get in touch with him, and talk to him a little more about his car. The next day, I had a PM from him, offering to help me out with the wiring of my gauges. So we worked out the schedules and he had agreed to come over on the 5th to help me knock it out.

I've said it before... I've had the good fortune of meeting some great people on this forum, and in this hobby.

The Stig

09-29-2013, 04:20 PM

The interior guy is coming over to my house on Friday to do a design concept. That should be interesting. Chris Knox is coming over on Saturday to help me get the last bit of wiring done. So... With a little luck... maybe I'll have this thing finished soon, so Gary won't give me grief about finding reasons not to finish it up. :cool:

The Stig

10-04-2013, 09:03 PM

I met with Steve Kurzman (Custom Stitching Co.) today. Steve owns a custom upholstery (trim) shop here in Charlotte. He took the time to drive to my house and take a look at the GTM. I was pretty pumped up when he left. Three shades of Gray, as well as brushed aluminum accents. Mercedes Benz wool carpet, with Garrett leather hides, and Alcantera accents and head liner.

We'll be using the dash and console from the kit, but it'll be re-worked a little. I'm also going to use the roll bar covers. The center section that runs along the roof, will be cut out and filled.

He says that it will take him 8 to 10 weeks to complete. He seemed pretty excited about doing my car. We talked through the design, all the materials, and cost.

So I believe I've changed my mind about who will do the interior.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/GTM%20Interior/DB9Seats_zps942a5ab5.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/GTM%20Interior/DB9Seats_zps942a5ab5.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/GTM%20Interior/DB9Seats008_zps4400d504.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/GTM%20Interior/DB9Seats008_zps4400d504.jpg.html)

The seats will be recovered in Gray leather with alcantera accents. The stitching will look very similar to the seats in a 2010 Aston Martin DB9.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/GTM%20Interior/rec_AUDI_rs4_dark_2neu_150_03_zpsa03d4572.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/GTM%20Interior/rec_AUDI_rs4_dark_2neu_150_03_zpsa03d4572.jpg.html )

The actual seat will be shaped pretty much like this Recaro Seat from the Audi RS4.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/GTM%20Interior/lotus_03_zps7cef01fd.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/GTM%20Interior/lotus_03_zps7cef01fd.jpg.html)

The overall look of the interior will be very similar to the Lotus Evora mixed with the Aston DB9...

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/GTM%20Interior/CSCUpholstery_zpse40e07ef.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/GTM%20Interior/CSCUpholstery_zpse40e07ef.jpg.html)

Anyone in the area, who might be interested in having some interior work done, should at least give Steve a call.

LCD Gauges

10-04-2013, 10:58 PM

narkosys

10-04-2013, 11:04 PM

Et voilà! (http://www.quickracingproducts.com/html/interior.html) :cool:

P

LCD Gauges

10-04-2013, 11:14 PM

:eek:

That will be mine. Thank you sir!

The Stig

10-05-2013, 07:13 AM

Tell me more about these roll bar covers? i know somebody on this site makes them...but I don't recall the name. I've also seen a few guys make their own (Mikespms comes to mind).

What are you cutting out, the roll bar cover, or the roll bar itself?

Yep. Ted Harrison of Quick Racing Products is selling these to the GTM crowd. I'll be removing the center section of the fiberglass cover and filling the gap that will be left... (Not the roll bar)

I am really feeling good about the direction that this build is about to take. After talking in detail with Steve, I really got the feeling that I'm going to be able to complete the visoin that I have in my "mind's eye", for this car. I just can't wait. The side project that I'm starting with the rear hatch will be icing on the cake.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_3056_zps3fc4d526.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_3056_zps3fc4d526.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_2943_zps863db256.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_2943_zps863db256.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_2944_zps6ecfb488.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_2944_zps6ecfb488.jpg.html)

The car is coming together; Slowly, but absolutely.

Mike

Roger Reid

10-05-2013, 09:58 AM

Ron565 is the one making them. Find them on quick racing products website but order them through Ron as they work together on this.

The Stig

10-05-2013, 12:25 PM

Very true. Thank you Roger.

The Stig

10-09-2013, 05:08 PM

Well here we go...

I had a couple of people who offered to help me with finishing up the wiring of the GTM, but the both fell through. My brother in law had to cover for a partner at work, so I understood that. The next was a no-show. I'm sure there was a good reason... So on to plan D.

We have a person that we met recently who owns a shop that specializes in Mercedes Benz Repairs. His name is Courty and he also happens to have built a Factory Five Cobra in his recent past. He mentioned that he would like to come by and take a look at the GTM and see what needs to be done.

I told him that if he would come by and help out, I would pay him whatever his rate is to get it done. (I wanted to make sure he knew that I'm not expect freebee's.)

He'll be at my house Friday afternoon.

I'm not sure of his forum "name". But I'm sure that he is probably well known on the Roadster Forum.

Maybe it'll finally get done.

crash

10-10-2013, 11:24 AM

The Stig

10-10-2013, 03:32 PM

If you had any idea at all how frustrated i have been about wiring, you might understand that i really don't care what the cost is.

mendo

10-11-2013, 10:37 AM

Stig, the wiring can be easy, I have tossed the painless kit out and am wiring the car using the original fuse box and relays. I downloaded the wiring diagrams and followed the colors.

The Stig

10-12-2013, 09:35 AM

Stig, the wiring can be easy, I have tossed the painless kit out and am wiring the car using the original fuse box and relays. I downloaded the wiring diagrams and followed the colors.

You know, everyone says that; and I am sure that it's true. But I've simply not had time to dedicate towards learning the ins and outs of it. I intend to do just that on my next build. (Haven't decided what that might be yet...)

But for THIS build, I have made arrangements to just pay someone else to get it done (correctly). I don't want to have to worry about taking the dash back apart, once it has been installed.

I'm taking it to his shop in two weeks. When he's done with it, it's going straight to the interior shop, for 8 to 10 weeks. While the interior is being installed, the side project that I have going on with the hatch, should be making some progress. I'm working with Jason Cecil (Carbon Fiber) to have a set of heat vents added to the sides of the hatch. We've spoken a couple of times by phone, and have a nice vision for the design. The idea is to have it look like the vents on the Ferrari F430 hatch. (It was delivered today by the way!...)

The Porsche 997 turbo gauge cluster, is at Classis Instruments being retrofitted. The guts are being removed and new classic instument movements are being installed. Ron Hanna (of their custom gauge department) estimates that their schedule is looking like a late December / early January delivery. I have a second (matching) cluster that I will use for fitting the new dash (gauge) cover.

So, everything is coming together. Slowly but surely.

Gary Chaney sent me a text last week, saying that if I keep coming up with these "extra" projects, he would probably be done with his 818 before I finish my GTM... I told him that it wouldn't surprise me at all if he was. :cool:

I was telling my wife yesterday, that it has taken forever, but it's turning out pretty much exactly the way I had hoped it would.

So, this little bit of wiring is all that stands in the way of these last items to finish it out. So the $$$ seem like money well spent to me.

I plan to post pictures as the work progresses. That way I can document that this think really gets finished, and I can close the book!

The Stig

10-20-2013, 09:33 PM

Spent last week in Charleston with my wife for our Anniversary. Man was that ever needed! I had to work from there but we were able to blend the work week and personal time pretty well. Not bad sitting at a desk overlooking Charleston harbor for the week.

Then this morning, she cut her hand pretty badly while cutting up some vegetables for lunch. So we spent the morning in the ER, to get her hand fixed. Once I knew that she would be Ok, I had to drive to the airport to head off to work for the week.

So, long story short... I wasn't able to get much done on the GTM except to start it up and let it run for 15 minutes or so. It sure sounds good!

This coming weekend, I have to try and find a trailer that I can rent, so I can take the GTM to have it wired once and for all... So the search is on.

The Stig

10-25-2013, 09:02 PM

Called AAA and asked them if they could pick the car up and take it over to a friends shop to have some electrical work done. The lady asked what kind of car it was, and I told her that it was a factory Five GTM. She seem to have some trouble with figuring out what a Factory Five GTM was. So I finally just told her that it was a Ferrari, and it sits very low to the ground, we'll need to get creative to find a way to get it up on the flat-bed. Well, she knew what a Ferrari was, and said that the driver would be here in 60 to 90 minutes. 5 minutes later, I got a call saying that he would be here in 5 minutes.

I still needed to get it down off the jack stands, get it started, and the get it down the ski-slope, (I mean driveway). It took us a couple of tries, but we got it onto the flat-bed without damaging the splitter or under belly.

So we took it down to have the gauges, and mirrors wired. From there, the plan is to take it straight over to the interior shop.

There is a finish line in sight.

Mike

Oh yeah, the driver thought that this was the coolest Ferrari that he had ever seen; and he's seen them all.
So I kindly thanked him and told him how much I appreciated it.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_20131025_145646_927_zps9fb59ad7.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_20131025_145646_927_zps9fb59ad7.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_20131025_145750_139_zps3e385be9.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_20131025_145750_139_zps3e385be9.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_20131025_145811_461_zps94c787f8.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_20131025_145811_461_zps94c787f8.jpg.html)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/IMG_20131025_150132_609_zpsae7c51bf.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/IMG_20131025_150132_609_zpsae7c51bf.jpg.html)

WIS89

10-25-2013, 10:17 PM

LCD Gauges

10-25-2013, 10:21 PM

... she knew what a Ferrari was, and said that the driver would be here in 60 to 90 minutes. 5 minutes later, I got a call saying that he would be here in 5 minutes.

You chopped off 55 minutes minimum by pulling the, "exotic card". Nice.

It reminds me of a photo of a boy, and a girl are both looking down their pants,
and the girl is quoted as saying, "With one of these I will control the world".

Taz Rules

10-27-2013, 01:10 PM

Damn, that is a pretty car. That colour is absolutely gorgeous.

I'm glad to hear that you are taking the time and effort to do this thing right. You will be so much happier in the end knowing that you didn't take shortcuts.

The Stig

10-27-2013, 02:10 PM

You chopped off 55 minutes minimum by pulling the, "exotic card". Nice.

It reminds me of a photo of a boy, and a girl are both looking down their pants,
and the girl is quoted as saying, "With one of these I will control the world".

LOL!!! And the little boy said, "With one of these, I'll have to pay for your *** for the rest of my life..."

Sorry, just venting. Something strange came over me when i read that...

Taz Rules

10-27-2013, 02:16 PM

LOL!!! And the little boy said, "With one of these, I'll have to pay for your *** for the rest of my life..."

Sorry, just venting. Something strange came over me when i read that...
As long as you're not bitter....

The Stig

10-27-2013, 02:23 PM

Never... That's too much of a waste of time.

Thanks for the kind words regarding the car. Just trying to get this car finished to the best of my ability. So far I'm pretty happy with it.

Take Care,

Mike

The Stig

10-27-2013, 02:30 PM

Hey Mike, I have never seen a blue Ferrari, and I think it is terrific. ;-o)

Boy, you must be chomping at the bit to get her wrapped up huh?

As I have said before, you have an amazing car and I hope you post some more pics when she gets back from the shop.

Regards,

Steve

Hi Steve.

Yep. The closer i get, the more impatient i feel. But it's getting there.

It'll be at Cars N' Coffee before you know it.

See you there soon.

sk7500

10-27-2013, 04:41 PM

Getting it back from the interior shop will be the icing on the cake. Bet you can't wait.

The Stig

10-30-2013, 09:46 PM

I can't. I'm finding it kind of funny how excited I'm getting, knowing that I'm really so close to having this car finished. I can't wait to be able to take a few short runs out on the streets, and bring it back in for the nut & bolt check, as well as close inspection of the coolant lines for leaks. Then it's game on... :cool:

The Stig

10-30-2013, 10:00 PM

I heard back from Classic Instruments with their quote for re-working the 997 cluster. When I was able to start breathing again, I was able to let Ron's words sink in as he described how he and his custom build team think they're going to handle the dials and the back lighting. The dials are going to be made of a translucent acrylic, roughly 3/16 thick. They are going to be back-painted a dark charcoal (not quite black). Then the Fonts and marks are going to lazer etched from the rear of the dial. This will give a much sharper and defined appearance with the back-lighting, and give the gauges a higher end OEM look and feel.

My wife calls it "Guy Bling" for the GTM. I think it will be just the ticket to tie the interior together. At least I hope so, given what it's costing me to do it. I think it's going to look awesome, and give me that over the top look and feel every time I slip into the seat. Woo Hoo. :cool:

So now I'm comfortable with knowing that the gauge cluster is turning out the way I want it to. I'm also very comfortable knowing that Jason Cecil has the rear hatch well under way, and that it will be finished before too much longer. I'm comfortable with the fact that the wiring of this car will be complete this week. I'm comfortable knowing that the paint scratches and hatch will be painted and then final cut / buffed to a true show car finish. And finally, I am very comfortable with the design of the interior, and that the execution is going to bring the car to the realization and vision that I had for it when I bought the kit.

For 4 years, I've simply felt as though I'm making progress each week. Now I can see that I'm really almost done with this build. So I'm getting pretty excited about it now. I'll post pictures as I'm able to. Especially the interior, and Audio speaker placement. We're trying to come up with creative ways to make the speakers invisible, but also allow sound to be clean and unrestricted.

Pioneer Head Unit: AVIC-Z140BH.
ARC-Audio XDi805 5-Channel Amplifier. (880 watts)
Hybrid Audio Clarus 5.25 component system w/passive crossovers and 1" tweeters.
Hybrid Audio Legatia L3 3.75" or L4 4.75" cone midrange (pair).
Hybrid Audio Clarus 8sw D2 or D4 Long Throw Subwoofer (Low Profile).
The subwoofer is a small, low profile sub that will give good clear bass to enhance the music. But it won't be one of these cars that you here thumping down the road from 2 miles away.

Here we go.
Mike

fastthings

10-31-2013, 07:41 AM

Well you know what a good speaker is. That is the best.

The Stig

10-31-2013, 08:08 PM

Well you know what a good speaker is. That is the best.

I know, I know... These speakers are overkill. Especially given the fact that it's going to be pretty tough to overcome the music coming from the engine bay.

But it's just something that I wanted in this car. Like my wife said, "you haven't skimped on anything so far, so why start now?".

It's hard for me to argue with that kind of logic... :cool:

Mike

RumRunner

10-31-2013, 08:40 PM

The Stig

10-31-2013, 09:12 PM

Mike,

Does your wife have any sisters? :rolleyes:

-Michael

LOL... I'm afraid not. She's unique!

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/Miscelleneous%20Pictures/PICT00121.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/Miscelleneous%20Pictures/PICT00121.jpg.html)

Mike

fastthings

10-31-2013, 09:40 PM

I know, I know... These speakers are overkill. Especially given the fact that it's going to be pretty tough to overcome the music coming from the engine bay.

But it's just something that I wanted in this car. Like my wife said, "you haven't skimped on anything so far, so why start now?".

It's hard for me to argue with that kind of logic... :cool:

Mike

Not an over kill at all, it's quality sound. How cool to have a wife that says go for it. Your interior is going to look so sharp. I have been thinking of the stereo stuff also, same brand speakers infact. I am very curious to see where you put all your gear. I'm not so worried about hiding mine, but still hard to find room. It is an art doing it so you can't see it.

The Stig

10-31-2013, 10:09 PM

The amp is going on the passenger side dash shelf (under the actual dash). The Low profile Sub will go under the passenger side dash, facing down in the foot well. Believe it or not, It'll has a dedicated box, made to fit the area that it will be mounted in. (And it will not be seen).

The 5 1/4"s will be in the doors. These will be the only speakers that will be visible. But they'll be fairly flush mounted in the custom door panels, and will have custom grills that will help give them a little more subtle appearance. The 1" tweeters will either be integrated (flush mounted in the front upper door) or integrated into the dash corners. The L3's (3.75") will be mounted in the tunnel aluminum right next to the seats, at the hips.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1690-1.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/DSC_1690-1.jpg.html)

If I use the L4's along with the L3's, they will be mounted in the outside close out panels, just under the rear quarter-windows. (Just behind your shoulders, and just hidden from view). This would require that new panels be made to cover and seal those two areas. There is plenty of room for medium sized speakers in that area.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/DSC_1624.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/DSC_1624.jpg.html)

I think that these should work well. This configuration would yield a very clean, 4 ohm, 9 speaker audio system. It will also be a blue-tooth compatible system with hands free phone access. It will have XM/Sirius, as well as iPhone/iPod connectivity. It will have a rear view camera to aid in rear vision. And Oh Yeah, Did I mention the Remote Passport Radar Detector system for Front & Rear. That will also be hidden. :cool: I'm trying to find a way to integrate the screen into the Pioneer Head Unit display. Not sure yet if I'll be able to pull that one off or not.... We'll see.

fastthings

11-01-2013, 07:14 AM

VD2021

11-01-2013, 07:56 AM

Very cool. The audio shop I've been talking to bounced an idea off mr to consider, make each seat have it's own system. For the driver, lt in the door/ rt in the tunnel. And same for the pass. I am also eye balling that space under the dash. We also have some space behind the seats. I'm going to show them your thread.

That's how MikePMS set his audio up. He pulled the idea from his bike. It's not a sound-Q setup, but a good option for the environment.

The Stig

11-11-2013, 09:42 PM

Given the fact that the GTM is so tight for space inside, would you really be able to set the system up as "individual systems"? I guess my imagination only goes as far as trying to blend the sound in a way that makes the music full, clear, and clean. I mean, with the sound (music) of the engine right in my ears, it seams as though what you would gain by setting up compartmental sound systems, would be lost.

But then the same argument could be made for using $2500.00 in high end speakers on top of the head unit, amp, and crossovers...

Man, I must have lost my mind... :eek:

My wife kids me, saying that the NASCAR channel on Sirus Radio will have never sounded so good...

We'll see.

LCD Gauges

11-11-2013, 11:15 PM

Ha, don't feel bad! I remember spending that kinda coin back in high-school working part-time! My friends, and I were audio-geeks for sure; one buddy had a Mazda 323
with three 15 inch sub woofers in the rear. The size of the car (interior volume) was so small, that the dB level increased with the doors open. :D

It has been decades since I've been into that scene, but designing the stereo system for the GTM has my blood flowing again. I'm still using the same
cross-over, and amplifier from the H.S. days. It's just too clean sounding to sell + it's easy to configure with low speaker loads.

What type of music are you "blasting" these days?

The Stig

11-11-2013, 11:50 PM

What type of music are you "blasting" these days?

Pretty much anything but Rap/Hip Hop... I've just never really gotten it. Nothing against those who do, but for the life of me I just don't get it.

I listen to Jazz, Classic Rock, & Country more than anything else. I also like classical music when it's played on nice equipment.

CRAZYBOB

11-13-2013, 05:28 PM

The Stig

11-15-2013, 04:04 PM

Hey, sorry if I missed it somewhere in here.. But, did the bodywork and paint get done at a shop on another GTM chassis? And then the parts were installed later on yours? It looks great. Did you have any issues with fitment of the parts between the two frames? Thanks Bob
Hi Bob. Yes, Whitby's had a GTM chassis with the body mounted. Most of the work was done to the body while it was mounted onto that chassis, until it was time for paint. When the body came back from the paint shop, it was mounted onto my chassis. There were no alignment issues that wouldn't have been present on my chassis...

When the car was delivered to my house, Jeff picked up the body from my kit.

I spoke about this on the first page or so of this thread.

Hope this helps. Mike

LCD Gauges

11-18-2013, 02:52 AM

Pretty much anything but Rap/Hip Hop... I've just never really gotten it. Nothing against those who do, but for the life of me I just don't get it.

I listen to Jazz, Classic Rock, & Country more than anything else. I also like classical music when it's played on nice equipment.

Can't say we have the same music tastes, but being a drummer I do like my Jazz! Also played several bands that covered Classic Rock, so it's all good.

My favourite band at the moment is Tool; I don't think you'd dig'em. :cool:

carbon fiber

11-18-2013, 09:36 AM

undertow is one of the best albums ever. nice test for an audio system too.

Fugly_Old_Cowboy

11-23-2013, 03:45 PM

wait a minute!!!! there is another reason to install a stereo system into a GTM besides for listening to NASCAR radio the way it SHOULD be listened to... (at 200 mph.....)

The Stig

11-23-2013, 07:07 PM

Can't say we have the same music tastes, but being a drummer I do like my Jazz! Also played several bands that covered Classic Rock, so it's all good.

My favourite band at the moment is Tool; I don't think you'd dig'em. :cool:

undertow is one of the best albums ever. nice test for an audio system too.

Yep... I'm a classic rock, country rock, smooth jazz kind of guy... Give me The Eagles, The Cars, Aerosmith, Alan Jackson, Chris Botti, Four Play, Trace Adkins, ZZ Top, Vanessa Williams, 3 Doors Down, Pink Floyd, Tom Petty, Sade, Heart, Guns N' Roses, Kicking Harold (of course), Jack Johnson, Bon Jovi, Hall & Oats, Cheap Trick, Brooks & Dunn, The Black Crows, Alison Krauss & Union Station, Big & Rich, Collective Soul, Mark Knopfler / Dire Straits, Jason Aldean, Clint Black, Blake Shelton, Boney James, Doobey Brothers, Van Halen, Gloria Estefan, Atlanta Rythym Section, Dwight Yoakam, Wynona Judd, Steve Miller Band, Def Leppard, etc., etc., etc., any day. :cool:

Somewhere in there, I should be able to test the system pretty well.

The Stig

12-03-2013, 09:50 PM

I wanted to take a minute to say that I hope that everyone had a peaceful and relaxing Thanksgiving. It's sad that this day has to be used to remind us of what is important in life. Family, Friends, and the ability to give thanks for what is important in our lives.

You're all friends of mine, and much appreciated!

Thank you.

Mike

fastthings

12-03-2013, 11:17 PM

Ahh, that's nice.

I pound that into my boys head all the time. I tell him you can screw up anything you want in life, just don't forget how important your family and friends are.

Taz Rules

12-04-2013, 01:26 AM

Hope your Thanksgiving was as awesome as your sentiment!

Now get building!!!!;)

The Stig

12-04-2013, 07:24 PM

Hope your Thanksgiving was as awesome as your sentiment!

Now get building!!!!;)

It was, Thank you.

The Stig

12-18-2013, 07:34 PM

Resin & Fiber Glass matting.... Check!
3m Bonding agent.... Check!
Hardened polycarbonate (scratch resistant).... Check!
Ability to be patient.... Not so much. :)

Jason called and said that we're in the home stretch now. The hatch should be finished before Christmas. Sweet!

Courty sent a note to say that the wiring would be finished by Saturday. Sweet!!!

I haven't heard back from Classic Instruments about the Porsche Gauges. I'll call Ron tomorrow and find out about that.

I have a little more sound deadener and heat shielding to install on the dash panels. Then it's going to the interior shop the first week of January. At least that's the schedule...

Stay tuned!

carbon fiber

12-19-2013, 09:26 AM

The Stig

12-19-2013, 10:56 AM

I'm interested in seeing the interior and gauges when they're finished. it sounds like it's gonna be nice, and that's one of the weakest visual aspects of the gtm. I'm still working on my interior also. I'd be done by now but I keep changing things.

I'm pretty excited about the interior too. I should have a graphic proof pretty soon for design sign-off. Once everything gets sorted out, I'll post a scan of the final proof.

On a side note; I saw a Black Ferrari F12 drive past me here in West Palm yesterday. I had a chance to see the rear window/hatch design up close, and all I can say is WOW. It looks really nice and sleek. Now, more than ever, I can't wait to see that similar design on the rear of my GTM. I think it is really going to compliment the look of the rear of the car.

Again, thank you for your willingness to take on this project and bring it to life for me.

Mike

mikespms

12-21-2013, 12:16 PM

The Stig

12-25-2013, 10:11 AM

2440524406 Hi Mike,
I was at the upholstery shop and they where working on this Lambo Aventador. I took some pictures of the rear hatch with my cell they are not to clear, the vents on the hatch are scalloped glass and it reminded me of your hatch project
The first plans that I had for the rear hatch were similar to the Murcielago. But that wouldn't work the way I wanted it to. So came plan B with the side vents next to window like the R8, and finally plan C with the hatch shaped like the Ferrari F12 Hatch... I think we have winner with that one. :cool:

carbon fiber

12-27-2013, 11:08 AM

the cool part is you don't have to cut up the hatch with this design, it should be even stronger than with the stock glass. I just got the materials on Christmas eve, so that put my schedule off a few days. I'm finishing the large mold today. making parts this coming week.

The Stig

12-30-2013, 12:15 AM

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/1229131224-00_zps6bb773b5.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/1229131224-00_zps6bb773b5.jpg.html)

This is not the overlay for the hatch. And it is not laying upside down on the rack. :cool:

This is the mold that will be used to make the part that will lay into the standard GTM hatch, and be bonded into place with 3M bonding agent.

More pics as they become available.

Mike

carbon fiber

12-30-2013, 12:29 PM

The Stig

12-30-2013, 01:13 PM

that's actually the mold the part will be made from. it is upside down compared to how it sits on the car, and the wood frame is glassed to the mold for strength. it gets a little confusing. the part will look like the original "plug" pics, except trimmed to fit the hatch. everything is on track to make the parts this week. I'm still trying to get the double-sided abrasion resistant acrylic sheet though, I may have to look for another supplier if mine can't get it.

At some point I'm going to learn to keep my mouth and assumptions at bay, and just wait until the finished product comes... :)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb94/jmichaelbaskin/12-30-20131-03-22PM_zps60d976eb.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/jmichaelbaskin/media/12-30-20131-03-22PM_zps60d976eb.jpg.html)

carbon fiber

12-30-2013, 02:00 PM

no big deal, it's coming soon! as soon as mike gets his on the car and painted, we'll post some finished pics. that'll be really cool, as I've been moving from one piece to the next on my car with hardly any finished all the way to paint yet. I'm going to become a vendor here and sell these as soon as we have finished pics. they'll be $1400 for the hatch, cf cover, and the pre-cut lexan. $1200 without the lexan, if you want to cut that yourself. anyone interested?

VD2021

12-30-2013, 02:45 PM

no big deal, it's coming soon! as soon as mike gets his on the car and painted, we'll post some finished pics. that'll be really cool, as I've been moving from one piece to the next on my car with hardly any finished all the way to paint yet. I'm going to become a vendor here and sell these as soon as we have finished pics. they'll be $1400 for the hatch, cf cover, and the pre-cut acrylic. $1200 without the acrylic, if you want to cut that yourself. anyone interested?

Gents,

This is going to be a nice addition.

But at that price point I can't say I'm an interested buyer.

carbon fiber

12-30-2013, 03:30 PM

mmaragos

12-30-2013, 07:54 PM

If I was still in the build stage, I would seriously consider this piece pending the final look. Price seems inline, actually, seems comparatively inexpensive in my opinion.

VD2021

12-30-2013, 08:09 PM

I couldn't make this for any less without losing my you know what. looks like I'm going to production car parts. I probably won't offer anything else I've developed for the gtm either, It doesn't seem like the market is there.

J,
I know you've a lot of work in this piece alone and no doubt your price is in-line. I'm still very eager to see the finished product on Mike's GTM. Just outside of my, already blown, budget right now. But how knows exactly what the future holds:D.

The Stig

12-30-2013, 10:38 PM

Aman

12-31-2013, 02:38 AM

I'm following with great interest!

Depending on the look, I may be seriously interested once I get to that stage. Dreading the bodywork, that hatch in particular.

Thanks for working on these projects guys, the payoff definitely isn't huge but makes this hobby so much better for us as builders.

Aman

LCD Gauges

12-31-2013, 04:53 AM

Seeing that a decent carbon spoiler is $1000+, I believe the price is very reasonable.

carbon fiber

12-31-2013, 10:06 AM

RumRunner

12-31-2013, 12:29 PM

For me, this is the answer to a couple of issues that has caused me grief for a while: The clashing body & rear glass lines, as well as the heat trap in the engine bay. When I look at my rear hatch and can see into the engine bay through the "gaps" because of the glass, the price of doing this seems well worth it.

Mike,

I certainly feel your pain with body fitment. The hatch is particularly challenging because of the fixed glass - everything needs to fit just right. I want to make certain that everyone following your thread (like me) realizes that the rear hatch can be made to look very good with a bit of work (at least on the Gen 2). While my opinion is certainly biased, I think mine came out looking great. Even gaps all around, glass sits flush with the sides, even the glass at the roofline looks good. I've included some pics. For me, the fitment was straightforward, but really benefited from a few tricks here and there.

That said, I really like what you and Jason have come up with. It certainly fills a need for increased ventilation in the engine compartment, and I suspect many builders will want to include this in their car. I probably would if I mine wasn't done already. Can't wait to see the final piece. Keep up the good work!

-Michael

The Stig

12-31-2013, 10:51 PM

Mike,

I certainly feel your pain with body fitment. The hatch is particularly challenging because of the fixed glass - everything needs to fit just right. I want to make certain that everyone following your thread (like me) realizes that the rear hatch can be made to look very good with a bit of work (at least on the Gen 2). While my opinion is certainly biased, I think mine came out looking great. Even gaps all around, glass sits flush with the sides, even the glass at the roofline looks good. I've included some pics. For me, the fitment was straightforward, but really benefited from a few tricks here and there.

That said, I really like what you and Jason have come up with. It certainly fills a need for increased ventilation in the engine compartment, and I suspect many builders will want to include this in their car. I probably would if I mine wasn't done already. Can't wait to see the final piece. Keep up the good work!

-Michael

Hi Michael,

You're right. When the bodywork and proper fitment of the glass is addressed prior to paint, the rear window can be made to look very nice. Yours is certainly a perfect and beautiful example of that.

That sort of fit and finish can only be achieved by putting forth the effort to make it right. Without going into details, and for whatever reason, mine wasn't. So, I was left with a decision as to whether or not I wanted to pull the current hatch and start cutting it up... Or do I just buy a new hatch and start over?

Factory Five said that they would make a new hatch for me. So with Jason's help, I'm confident that it will fit the GTM perfectly and look great!

Thank you to Factory Five for pulling out the Gen-I molds and making me a new hatch to use for this project. Special Thanks to Jason Cecil for taking on this project, and for dedicating himself to produce such a high quality solution for me. I'm very appreciative to both.

Mike

Taz Rules

01-01-2014, 03:24 PM

thanks for the positive comments, maybe I was a little quick to draw conclusions. someone also mentioned all the builders who don't really post but if something is offered they would buy it. I'm really trying to keep the prices down as low as possible, there's a lot involved with making this stuff. i'll keep a more positive attitude and see how it works out.

My .02...I think the price is right in line, if not even a bit low for the amount of time, work and material involved.

People need to remember that these ideas don't just spring up and turn themselves into molds. It takes time to come up with a concept, refine it, check to see if it works, then redesign the glitches out, then test again, refine some more, and then AND ONLY THEN start looking at hard parts, molds, etc. I've never seen your process, but from the quality of the photos, I'd say that a pretty damn good amount of thought and consideration went into this, not to mention creativity. That kind of special ability needs to be compensated.

Can I afford it? Probably not, but that's my loss. There are others who can afford it, and they are getting a lot of hidden value besides just the cost of CF and polycarb.

Good job.

The Stig

01-01-2014, 06:35 PM

Thanks Taz. You're right. There has been a good bit of effort put into this piece.

With that said, it seems that there are some passionate opinions coming to the surface. ;)

That's a good thing!

Mike

carbon fiber

01-02-2014, 09:24 AM

thanks taz. I'm not really trying to make a lot of money off the gtm community, just trying to offer some fixes/upgrades. with the exception of this hatch, I was making the parts for myself anyway. if it weren't for that I'd lose money on the deal. it's more of a passion than profit deal. if there were more gtms out there, it might be different. anyway, thanks for the positive comments. I'm looking forward to seeing this finished on mikes car, and maybe this part will help others with their build too.

The Stig

01-03-2014, 07:12 PM

I have a couple of questions that I hope someone here can help me with fairly quickly.

I have had my GTM at a mechanic's shop that was recommended to me, in order to have the Gauges, Fog-Lights, Hazzard Lights, and Mirrors wired. It has been there for 12 weeks, and is starting the 13th week today... That's far too long in my oppinion, and I have to say that it has made me very nervous as I wait to find out what it's going to cost me.

When I spoke to him earlier today, he said that he would have it finished up by the end of thw coming week. He said that the Mirrors and the Hazzard & Fog Light switches were causing him the most grief.

1. My donor car was a 1999 Corvette convertible. Is there anything out of the ordinary with the 1999 mirrors that I need to relay to Courty to get them wired and working as they should? Does anyone have a "correct" wiring schematic that I could follow?

2. What's the secret to wiring the Hazard & Fog Light Switches? I'm using the relays that came with the kit, which run to a central ground, and a "switched on" power source. Again, does anyone have a wiring schematic that I can use to get these working correctly.

Any help that you guys can lend would be much appreciated!

Mike

VD2021

01-03-2014, 07:39 PM

The Stig

01-03-2014, 11:02 PM

Hazard SWT

-Painless harness wire #951 (brown) to black wire(30) on the relay harness
-Pin A on the turn signal harness connects to the green wire(87) on the relay harness
-White relay harness wire(85) to ground
-Red relay harness wire(85) connects to Pin-2(NO) on the hazard swt
-Pin-1(C) on the hazard swt +12v
-Pin-3(NC) is not used
-The remaining two swt pins are for the swt's illumination LED.

HTHs.

Sweet! Thank you Vidal! I'll pass this along, and maybe it'll help him.

Now to find the schematics for the Mirrors. I don't recall hearing people complain too much about getting the mirrors wired.
So I wouldn't have thought that those would have been such a PITA, but I guess they are.

Thanks again Buddy.

Mike

The Stig

01-03-2014, 11:25 PM

Mike, you must have gypsies wiring your car! Jim Schenk wired my first GTM in just one day! The worst by far was my i Square system (early isis)

Gary, unfortunately when Jim comes to North Carolina, he would rather hang out with you and ride dirt bikes than wire my GTM... Who could blame him? :cool:

As I've said many times in the last year or so, this build has taught me more than I would have ever expected. And 90% of what I've learned has more to do with the people that I've trusted, than actually building the car itself... One of the things that I've learned much more so than any other, is that I grown to despise being dependent on anyone else when it comes to trying to complete a project like this. It tends to cost me time, money, and friendships. And that's not good.

Mike

Fugly_Old_Cowboy

01-03-2014, 11:57 PM

Gary, unfortunately when Jim comes to North Carolina, he would rather hang out with you and ride dirt bikes than wire my GTM... Who could blame him? :cool:

As I've said many times in the last year or so, this build has taught me more than I would have ever expected. And 90% of what I've learned has more to do with the people that I've trusted, than actually building the car itself... One of the things that I've learned much more so than any other, is that I grown to despise being dependent on anyone else when it comes to trying to complete a project like this. It tends to cost me time, money, and friendships. And that's not good.

Mike

AMEN!!!! that's one of the reasons I intend to do ALL the work on my GTM myself.... I am just a poor working stiff that is toooooooo short on time, money and friends to have to depend on anyone else's time to get it done... that said, anyone willing to volunteer time & expertise (or money) to getting MY GTM built will not be turned away...:D