Edwardb’s Gen 3 Type 65 Coyote Coupe #59 Build: 5,000 Mile Report

[pumpman]

Do you have a drawing for the wheels plates? Also I didn't a part number for the wheels. What part number did you buy for the wheels. Thanks in advance.

[edwardb]

Do you have a drawing for the wheels plates? Also I didn't a part number for the wheels. What part number did you buy for the wheels. Thanks in advance.

My wheels are the standard 18" Halibrand style: https://www.factoryfiveparts.com/15812-18-halibrand-style-replica-wheels/. I assume you're asking about the wheel spacers I put on the rear wheels? Very common on these builds with the standard wheels. No, I don't have any drawings. They're Eibach 90.4.25.010.3 Pro-Spacer Wheel Spacer Kit, 25mm (1 inch), 70.50mm diameter, 1/2-20 thread size. Fit and work perfectly. Pictured here if that helps.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80584&d=1518101070

[pumpman]

I apologize what I meant was for the hood latch. I was looking at the thread that you showed how you made the brackets and skate wheels to help with the closing of the hood.

[edwardb]

I apologize what I meant was for the hood latch. I was looking at the thread that you showed how you made the brackets and skate wheels to help with the closing of the hood.

No problem. I was asked about that previously and did these tracings of my prototype parts. Which I used to make the final ones out of thicker material. Not the best, but should get you started. There is definitely some customization and fitting required.

[pumpman]

Thank you.

[pumpman]

BTW I finally got my PCM back from Ford and there were some errors. The fixed them and sent it back and started right up this weekend. There were total of 7 errors and they could not tell me how this happened either.

[jiriza84641]

This week of the build I’ve been jumping from one thing to the next, and seemingly not making a lot of progress. But in hindsight I guess (hopefully) I have. Focusing on trying to get everything in the engine compartment done. Completed the connection from the fuel regulator to the engine. But radiator hoses, heater hoses, A/C hoses, PS hoses, PCV hoses, and the last of the Coyote wiring still remain. To do it right, at least in my view, no one thing can be taken alone. Often they try to occupy the same space, which in some cases is limited. Also trying to do it as neat and orderly as possible of course.

The first thing was after getting the engine and headers installed, I started having second thoughts about the PCM location. Plain and simple, the headers were closer than I anticipated. After more sitting and staring, and comparing to where the PCM is mounted in #8674, decided to ask my contact at Ford about it. The response I got back wasn’t a surprise, but wasn’t what I wanted to hear. “Too close for comfort” was the official response. Including from some technical guys that were asked about it and shown pictures. I posted pictures earlier in the build thread, so won’t again. But basically it was mounted vertically in front of the passenger side footbox. With it up as high as it could go (limited by the cowl) the bottom edge of the PCM was less than 2 inches from the nearest header pipe. I could flip it over, with the wiring end down, and the PCM was probably an acceptable distance. But then the wire harness and connectors would be similarly close to the headers. Probably even more likely to be at risk. Played around with some ideas to make a heat shield, but finally concluded this orientation wasn’t going to work. I want to get this right the first time, and clearly the mounting I had before was a bad idea.

Short of tearing the engine harness apart, which I’ve said before I just don’t want to do, the large harness and connector coming off the engine to the PCM is the major factor determining the PCM location. So needed to figure out a new mounting in that same general area. The answer became pretty obvious that the PCM needed to be flat on top of the frame in front of the footbox. But it has to stay behind the front splash guards and also the gas strut that holds the cowl up when open. Turns out there’s just enough space in that location to mount it there. Means the heater and A/C hoses around the footbox will need to be re-routed a bit. But I can make it work. The guys at Ford liked my new location. It’s around 12 inches from the headers, much of the underside blocked by the frame, mounting, and footbox. And the heat sinks on the unit point up. Should like it there just fine. Actually further from the headers than the typical Roadster installation including #8674. This general area, with (obviously) the wiring routed and tied down when done:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=98709&d=1544211072

So, designed and fabricated a mounting bracket from 3/16-inch thick aluminum. Actually, harvested from my #7750 Roadster build where the original owner thought the footboxes needed full 3/16-inch sheet floors. I removed and that material just keeps giving and giving. The mounting bracket is riveted to the frame, with 5/16-18 threads tapped into the bracket and frame on one side and the bracket and a second layer of 3/16-inch thick aluminum on the other side. Added some high-temp silicone rubber sheet pads under the PCM mounting ears, and I think it’s all set. It would be real easy to add a heat shield under the PCM. But unless it turns out to be a problem (I doubt it) thinking it's more important for it to have free airspace. So won't for now.

Installed bracket looks like this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=98711&d=1544211092

With the PCM attached looks like this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=98710&d=1544211084

The heater control valve doesn’t move, but the hoses from the inside unit will need to come out from the side instead of the top. The A/C hoses from the inside unit will also need to be slightly re-routed, including replacing that #10 hose connection (top one LH side) from a 90-degree fitting to a 45-degree fitting. It’s on the way. I’m also in the process of re-wrapping that large cable from the engine. Just the visible part from the top corner of the head to the PCM using convolute and harness wrap like all the other wiring. That should clean things up a bit. I’m planning to add extensions to the engine cover to hide more of what’s visible from there back.

With that finally done, now to finalize the other two connections to the PCM. The leg from the PDB I had already reworked and it’s fine. The third connection is for the O2 sensors. Interesting. The Gen 1 Coyote had the O2 wires built into the main control pack harness. The Gen 2 Coyote Ford moved them to the stock engine harness. For the Gen 3 they’re back off the engine harness and now have their own dedicated harness connection to the PCM. With a couple challenges. The harness has four O2 sensor connections, duplicating the OE setup with upstream UEGO connectors in the exhaust collectors (the ones we use) and a second set of downstream connectors that are after the cats which we don’t typically install. A call to Ford early in the game said downstream connectors aren’t active in the crate motor program so clip the legs off or tie out of the way. Upon further review now that the PCM is located, found the required connections for the two upstream sensors aren’t remotely close to the right configuration or length. The RH side is way too long, the LH is way too short, all on the end of large single leg. Not very usable IMO. If you want to see what the supplied harness looks like, it’s on page 10 of the Gen 3 control pack instructions. https://performanceparts.ford.com/download/instructionsheets/FORDINSTSHTM-6017-M50B.PDF

So, to make it a clean sweep, since I’ve re-worked all the other harnesses, stripped off all the harness wrap and convolute. There’s only one wire (power) that’s common to all the connections. The rest are discrete right to the PCM connector. So, clipped off the downstream wires at the connector and they’re both gone. Then, shortened the RH upstream side and while I was at it lengthened the LH upstream side. Note I could have used a standard 24-inch extension for the LH side and it would have worked fine. But figured since I had it all apart anyway, just hard wire the added length and be done with it. Then joined the common power wires and wrapped it back up. Now looks like this. Just a little different.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=98712&d=1544211101

I measured and ordered the PS hoses and connectors I need from Breeze. Should be here any day. Ordered and received a Mastercool 71550 A/C Hose Crimper. It’s the one recommended in the Factory Five instructions if you want to make the A/C hoses yourself. I do. Interesting tool and will be a new experience. Waiting for a few other parts to arrive early next week and should have everything I need to complete all the connections in the engine compartment.

Free unsolicited editorial comment: This all sounds a little complicated, and maybe it is. But if you’re experienced with stuff like this, probably you are completing in less time than I’m spending doing these updates. :p If you’re not experienced, probably it seems a little intimidating. Maybe especially the Coyote part. But between the Gen 3 Coupe and the Gen 3 Coyote, much of this is pretty new. I’m learning myself on some of this as I go. As the saying goes, just take it one bite at a time.


Edward, for the DS O2 sensor, what size wire was used to extend the cable to reach, I see you cut and lengthened it.

Thanks

[edwardb]

Edward, for the DS O2 sensor, what size wire was used to extend the cable to reach, I see you cut and lengthened it.

Thanks

No choice but to make the cable longer. Not sure who designed the harness, but can't think of a single installation where the standard harness would reach. Choices are pre-made extensions (like Casper's Electronics) or add wire to the existing harness. Which is what I did. Sorry I don't remember the gauge of the wire. I duplicated what was already in the cable with standard hookup wire. I use this chart to measure and count the conductors. I don't (usually...) guess. https://www.delcity.net/images/linedrawings/Primary%20Wire%20Reference.pdf. Also, just to confirm, I only extended the harness leg. Not the pigtail on the O2 sensor itself. Both the insulation and conductor are something other than standard hookup wire. Not friendly to work with. I know from a previous build.

[Alphamacaroon]

Paul, quick question on your windshield install: I see that you used Dow primer— approximately how much did it require? Thanks!

[edwardb]

Paul, quick question on your windshield install: I see that you used Dow primer— approximately how much did it require? Thanks!

I used most of a 4.2 oz bottle of Dow Black Betaprime 5504G. Did the frit (took a couple coats) and also around the body opening.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_1785.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/186cc666-68d0-4881-b53c-af005ffe3552/p/33fd6ea4-5c18-4adb-a4f2-ff7babf525d1)

[Alphamacaroon]

I used most of a 4.2 oz bottle of Dow Black Betaprime 5504G. Did the frit (took a couple coats) and also around the body opening.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_1785.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/186cc666-68d0-4881-b53c-af005ffe3552/p/33fd6ea4-5c18-4adb-a4f2-ff7babf525d1)

Thanks much! Wasn't sure if one bottle would be enough, but it sounds like it's close enough.

[JohnMac]

Thought I’d chime in on the mirrors. I looked at the photo the link took me to and think the mirrors look identical to what Honda uses on the VFR800. Ive purchased a couple pair and will have to see how they work.

[edwardb]

With snow, ice, and salt on the roads as of several weeks ago, driving season is officially over in Michigan. Made it almost to the end of November. So, no complaints.

Officially did 1,943 miles in the first season. Given the very slow start due to stay at home orders, I’m happy with that. We couldn’t be more pleased with the Coupe. Draws major attention everywhere it goes. I’ve gotten very used to it and like it a lot. Love driving it. Everything about it is working great. In hindsight, happy with the build choices. My wife appreciates the creature comforts and rode a lot of those miles with me. We started the season with both the Roadster and the Coupe. But after almost always choosing the Coupe when going out, sold the Roadster to make room for another build as mentioned before. Ordered the ’35 Ford Truck for the next project, and now using the time until it’s delivered to check over the Coupe and get it serviced and ready for next season.

First up changed the oil and filter. Straightforward and no surprises. It used very little oil in the miles driven. Oil looked relatively clean still. Almost nothing on the magnetic drain plug. All good. Put grease in all the zerks on the chassis. I did change out a couple to 45 and 90 degree fittings to improve access. Specifically the inner pivots on the front UCA’s, and the rear lower pivots on the front LCA’s. In those locations, the frame gets in the way and these angled fittings make it a lot easier.

Checked all the suspension bolts and no surprises. All tight. Specific attention to the witness marks on the IRS axle nuts, IRS adjusters, and front upper ball joints. Nothing moved. Took the wheels off and looked over the brakes carefully. All good with plenty of pad left. The one thing I did find was the bolt holding the alternator belt idler pulley was backed almost all the way out. Hanging on by just a couple threads. Fortunately, the idler has a step where it sits on the front timing cover and it stayed in place. Pretty lucky I think. Installing the idler pulley was part of the alternator installation. So yours truly apparently didn’t properly tighten. Added some blue Loctite and it’s tight now.

Of course can’t get it up on the lift and not clean everything up. Top and bottom. Looks pretty much brand new everywhere now. Touched up 4-5 stone chips on the nose. Also touched up some scratches on the underside of the nose where I managed to tangle with a parking lot bumper at a local A&W drive-in on one of our very first drives. Grr… Not perfect, but basically gone now. Definitely takes a little adjustment to how long that nose is. Once done with body clean-up and touch-up, applied a fresh coat of Adams ceramic coat. I had put some on earlier in the year. Like it OK but not sure how much better it is than a high quality wax.

Couple of open items still. On my very last cruise of the year, after pulling into the garage found some clear oil on the ground at the front RH corner. Not a lot but still obviously unexpected. Was in the general area of the upper A/C connection to the condenser. So thinking it was oil from the A/C system leaking in the area of the hose crimp to the connector. Put the gauges on the system and both static and running pressures are all normal. A/C seems to be working properly with the right amount of temperature drop. Logically, doesn’t seem it would leak oil but not R134a refrigerant. Checked a little further and the upper gas shock end is also in that area. Read through some literature and those do have some oil in them. Removed both shocks and both seem to have the same resistance and no signs of any leaks. So for now this is still a mystery. I haven’t ruled out an A/C leak. I’m going to put some dye in the A/C system and check with a UV light. The other open item I have is I had to send my Digital Guard Dawg module back for a re-flash. A combination of user error (that’s me) programming a keyfob which clears all keyfobs (!!) and then found my emergency code no longer worked. After talking to them, said the only solution was to re-flash the module. A little disappointing. But I did find out my dash setup allowed me to remove the gauge cluster and extract the module without too much drama. Waiting for it to come back and put things back together.

Last point I’ll mention is my attempt to quiet things down. I’ve mentioned repeatedly that the one regret I have with the build was not better insulating the body area below the doors and in the area of the side pipes. With how close the side pipes are and tucked in, I’m convinced that contributes to noise inside the cockpit. There’s open area between the chassis and the body, and this area should have additional insulation applied IMO. I have the two layers of Lizard Skin and carpet on the inside. But more on the outside should be a good thing. I thought about trying to spray some expanding foam in there. But I have very little experience with that material. One of my home projects this year was repairing a rotted door frame and sill on one of our outside doors. In the process used expanding foam for the first time. It did OK for that purpose. But really wasn’t excited about spraying it inside the body. So did some research, and found the trick material for something like this is Mass Loaded Vinyl or MLV for short. So bought one 24 x 0.25 x 54 inch sheet of Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro MLV. Working through the hole in the front of the rear wheel well, I was able to get a strip of MLV inside the chassis cross pieces and against the cockpit sheet metal down the whole side. Then another strip along the top of the side pipe area on the inside of the body. Finally, another small piece up in the front by the foot boxes. Was a little like building a ship in a bottle but managed to get all the pieces in. The MLV doesn’t have any adhesive. I used some Sikaflex-221 I had on hand.

Once those pieces were in place, I decided to go one step further and plug that opening in the rear wheel well. Maybe that would help with sound too? At the very least, cut down on the amount of gravel and dirt that ends up inside there. So followed my usual practice of making a cardboard pattern and then .040 aluminum. Used small bulb seal. Held in place with two 10-32 screws into tapped holes in the frame. After these pictures and before final assembly, put UPOL Raptor on the outside and a piece of the MLV insulation on the inside. Really cleans up the area if nothing else.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139442&d=1608262470

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139443&d=1608262480

Ran the engine some and hard to say there’s any difference in the sound level. We’ll see when it’s driving season again. At the very least, I can say I tried to do something. That’s mostly it for the Coupe for now. My truck delivery has been delayed by the big snowstorm in the east. It’s in the trailer and on the way. But delayed in NH. Still hoping to be here by Christmas. Speaking of that, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all. May next year bring some improvements over 2020. Wouldn’t be hard.

[Nigel Allen]

Merry Christmas to you and everyone else on the forum. All the sharing of knowledge and ideas has been appreciated greatly again this year.

Got great weather down here at the moment, so will be putting a few miles on over the holidays.

Looking forward to 2021.

Cheers,

Nigel

[edwardb]

A quick note of follow-up from my previous year-end posts.

- The Digital Guard Dawg keyless system is back together and now a closed topic. But not without some drama. After sending my module back and not hearing anything for a couple weeks, called to see what was happening. Was told it just needed a re-flash but the person who did that was out for medical reasons. Plus they had a general shortage of help from COVID. (They're in California.) Not to mention all during the holidays. After some further back and forth and a little more time, they sent me a brand new module and new keyfobs. Works perfectly, and even though not terrible I hope to not take the dash apart again. Kudos to Digital Guard Dawg for stepping up and backing their product and service. Even though I might have been a little more impatient if it was actually driving season. :rolleyes:

- I injected some dye into the A/C system to see if I had any leaks and if that was the possible source of the small oil leak mentioned before. No surprise when nothing showed up around the suspected fittings. Or anywhere else. Didn't make sense to me that there could be an oil leak yet no drop in pressures in the system and it's working normally. I confirmed the dye is definitely in the system. The little window on the top of the receiver dryer glows like a signal light when hit with the UV flashlight. Along with my hands and anything that seemed to be close that stuff. Will continue to monitor.

- Just taking the leak thing one step further, also put some dye in the power steering system to see if that could be the culprit. Different dye made for that purpose and glows a slightly different color. Nothing found there either. Since the oil I found (clear, and somewhat thick) was a one time thing so far, I'm going to bail on any further testing and just keep an eye on things. Cars leak occasionally (I guess...) but don't like it much. More importantly don't want anything bad to be wrong.

- Since I had a little time waiting for the 35 truck kit to arrive, decided to check my front end alignment. Was curious to see if anything was different after a season of driving. Did find the RH camber was off three-tenths of a degree (-0.2 versus -0.5 desired) so fixed that. Was just a couple of flats turned on both UCA adjusters, and super easy with the open front cowl on the Coupe. Everything else checked OK, including after that minor adjustment. Assuming it drives OK and I don't see any unusual tire wear, not something I'll be checking very often. But nice to have the tools to do it myself.

With that, and the arrival last week of my 35 truck kit, the Coupe is officially now hibernating and up on the RaceRamps FlatStoppers. Ready for spring when it chooses to arrive.

[Alphamacaroon]

Paul, I think at one point you mentioned adding some retaining clips or some sort of anti-slip for your floor mats. Any chance you could share how you did that?

[Alphamacaroon]

A quick note of follow-up from my previous year-end posts.
- Just taking the leak thing one step further, also put some dye in the power steering system to see if that could be the culprit. Different dye made for that purpose and glows a slightly different color. Nothing found there either. Since the oil I found (clear, and somewhat thick) was a one time thing so far, I'm going to bail on any further testing and just keep an eye on things. Cars leak occasionally (I guess...) but don't like it much. More importantly don't want anything bad to be wrong.


One thought— could it be coolant? I had the same thing happen and when I touched it and smelled it I had no idea what it was— it did not smell like antifreeze, and had an oily feel to it. Then I remembered that I was using Evans waterless coolant for the first time, and that stuff does not feel or smell like traditional coolant at all. Are you using something like Evans?

Since then I've been tracking down small coolant leaks all over the place (lots of extra opportunities for leaks with heater installed)— I've had to tighten all the hose clamps more than what I consider "normal" to get everything to stop.

[edwardb]

Paul, I think at one point you mentioned adding some retaining clips or some sort of anti-slip for your floor mats. Any chance you could share how you did that?

Used these from Amazon. Pretty straightforward installation the rear corners of the floor mats. Work well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BTH5LHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


One thought— could it be coolant? I had the same thing happen and when I touched it and smelled it I had no idea what it was— it did not smell like antifreeze, and had an oily feel to it. Then I remembered that I was using Evans waterless coolant for the first time, and that stuff does not feel or smell like traditional coolant at all. Are you using something like Evans?

Since then I've been tracking down small coolant leaks all over the place (lots of extra opportunities for leaks with heater installed)— I've had to tighten all the hose clamps more than what I consider "normal" to get everything to stop.

Will be keeping an eye on this as the driving season starts back up hopefully soon. No signs of any leaks during winter hibernation.

[edwardb]

Quick follow-up after my minor winter mods. First day of spring a couple days ago. For Michigan that doesn't always mean too much. Still the possibility for cold and snow weeks afterward. But last few days have been warm and nice and long term forecast looks promising. So Friday took the Coupe out for a short drive. Then yesterday drove it a bunch more. Probably 25-30 miles. It's hard to say how much. Or what exactly was the most effective. But I'm convinced the attempts to add some sound proofing described in post #1013 above made a difference. Driving is still an ear plug experience. But overall it's better. Just confirms to me that the area I described should be addressed in new builds when it's open and can be even more robust than what I did. New builders, take notice!

I posted this on Facebook also. Took a real quick, short and shaky video with my iPhone during the first drive. This is holding the wheel and my phone with one hand while shifting and also steering with the other. I know, probably not the best practice... Not something I would normally do. But there's a principle for the first drive of the season plus a very small indication of the sound inside the cockpit. I wasn't pushing it at all. There are still several thousand RPM's available above these and it does get a lot louder. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ssLMknn3Gg&ab_channel=PaulBorror. Also no signs of any leaks anywhere. So not sure what was going on during the last drives last year. But I'll take it. Will keep an eye on things of course. Let the 2021 driving season begin. Looking forward to London and the Factory Five Open House plus lots of local activities. Cancellations are highly discouraged! Hope to see a bunch of you out there.

[Russwood]

Paul -

First, I hope this doesn't sound corny, but I am a HUGE fan of your builds. I've read through them as a lurker before joining the Forum (in fact, this is my very first post). I've learned so many things from reading through all your build threads. Your attention to detail and creative solutions are brilliant. I'm looking forward to discovering other master builders and their work on this forum.

I've been wanting to do a FFR build for a while, and have spent countless weekends researching, making spreadsheets, notes, budgets, etc. on how I want to do it. I've taken so long in fact, I've pretty much had to move my power plant from the Gen 2 Coyote to the Gen 3, simply because the Gen 2's are pretty much history if you want a crate version. I know I could build one from the ground up, but the improvements on the Gen 3 are too good to ignore IMO.

So, not only will I be pretty much pirating most all of your ideas & solutions (all while giving you the well earned credit), I plan to assemble your build posts into a companion to the FFR manual. I'm surely not the first to do that. Fair warning - I may reach out to you for advice along the way - much thanks in advance.

All that brings me to my questions.

I'm traveling to Boston this month for vacation, and plan to make a day trip down to Wareham to visit the showroom (and hopefully the Covid restrictions will allow a factory tour as well - fingers crossed!). My most pressing reason is to sit in both the Roadster and the Coupe to see how my large frame fits, as well as to actually see the cars in person. I live in Oklahoma, and while I've seen a couple Roadsters on the street, I've not gotten the opportunity to see a FFR version in the flesh. I'm really looking forward to the visit.

Sorry - I'm still wandering here. All along I've intended to build a Roadster first. It seems to be much simpler compared to the other kits, and I like the may variations that are possible. That said, I REALLY like the Coupe, but my concern is whether that's too ambitious for my first build. Now that you've built both "back to back", are my concerns real, or has FFR refined the Coupe kits to the point that there isn't so much of a gap? I've read in your build threads that you don't think the Coupe is as daunting as some have said, but do you think that your skills have become so sharp from building 3 Roadsters prior to the Coupe that the Coupe build seemed similar and therefore not as difficult as you thought? Just wondering if that may have influenced your conclusion in any way.

I'm an electrician by trade, and have been in the industry since the early '90s. That background, along with growing up with a father and grandfather who both believed they could fix it better and cheaper than an auto shop (and usually did), has provided me with a better than average knowledge of mechanics, electrical systems (duh), and engines/equipment. I hope that didn't read as arrogant as it felt typing it, but my point is that I've got enough experience to wade into the deeper waters and not just go buy one of these cars.

Honestly, I'm looking forward to the build as much as the finished product, and from what I've read on the forum, I'm not alone. I've got a 14 yr old son and a 24 yr old son-in-law that may be as excited as I am. That makes the build all the more appealing.

I feel pretty confident that I will be successful at either build, but I'd like my first time to be as straight forward as possible.

I guess I may have just answered my own question.

Even so, I'd love to hear your unfiltered opinion. If you could imagine not having built a FFR kit before, based on your experience with both, am I nuts to be considering a Coupe right out of the gate?

Thanks in advance for allowing me to pick your brain.

--Russ

[edwardb]

Thanks for the generous comments. Glad you find my build thread useful. I have fun doing these and appreciate the feedback. Just keep in mind a high percentage of what I show are personal opinions and choices. Not a lot of absolutes. But we love our finished Coupe. Very happy with the choices made.

To your question about the differences between a Roadster and Coupe build. The easy part is what’s the same. Although the frame construction is quite different (4-inch tube ladder style vs. space frame) the assembly effort is pretty much the same. The same front and rear suspension options, brake options, wheel options, fuel tank setup, etc. Aluminum panels are different, but the installation technique is the same. Fuel lines, brake lines, and wiring harness take different routes. But are also basically the same. Slight additional work with the radiator tunnel on the Coupe. But no big deal. Once inside, the amount of interior space is very similar. Although a Coupe would have more if different seats were used compared to the ones we used. We’re both average size and installed what works well for us. Overall, the Roadster is a bit more refined from a build standpoint. Just based on the number Factory Five has built and the improvements and changes over the years. But the most recent Gen 3 Coupe is very good. Although I don't have any experience with the previous versions, by all accounts it's much better.

These are what I would consider are the major differences:

- More room in the Coupe for a wide engine (like the Coyote) and a much larger transmission tunnel. The T-56 fits with ease vs. very tight in a Roadster. If you go that way. Engine height however in the Coupe is a bit more limited. Without modifications, a big block is out of the question and height needs to be carefully considered with a 351 block.

- I would not build a Coupe without A/C. It’s loud (separate point) and keeping everything enclosed helps. It would be hot even with the side windows open based on the windshield and rear hatch glass. A/C adds complexity and cost. Heat is normally part of the HVAC package and nice. We are comfortable driving our Coupe when the open cockpit Roadster folks only want to talk about how cold it is. :cool:

- The Roadster has a relatively simple bolt-on windshield. The Coupe has a glued in windshield (talked about a lot in my build thread) plus the rear hatch and optional side windows, which I recommend. Not particularly difficult. But more work. When finished, the Coupe is a little harder to see out of.

- The dash in the Coupe is significantly more complicated. Especially when you start adding A/C plus other options. Again, not particularly difficult. But more work. Unless you start really changing and adding things like I did.

- The Coupe is loud. There’s just no getting around it. With the proximity of the side pipes and with everything enclosed, it’s loud inside. Ours is very will insulated and has slightly quieter Gas-N pipes. But still not comfortable to ride/drive without ear plugs. We’re used to it and no big deal. But people who think it’s going to be quieter than an open top Roadster (where I also highly recommend always wearing ear plugs) will be surprised and maybe disappointed.

- The overall main difference is going to be body work and finishing. Getting the front cowl mounted and properly fitted, same with the doors, etc. is not a small task. The Roadster has its challenges too. But having done both, no question the Coupe is more. Related to this, if you have body work and paint done by a shop (vs. DIY) the Coupe will be more expensive. The Coupe also has a headliner to deal with. Although I just sprayed mine with UPOL Raptor, same as the rest of the body is undercoated and similar to how you might undercoat a Roadster body. We're happy with it.

- Nearly everyone recognizes the Roadster and will have their own personal feelings, experiences, etc. that most share. (Can be interesting…) I’m surprised how many don’t recognize the Coupe. I’ve been asked about nearly every brand you can think of. Having said that, it’s a hit everywhere it goes. There just aren’t nearly as many around so people seem to really enjoy seeing it.

So, what about the final product? Like I said, we love our Coupe. After 10+ years driving several different Roadsters, the Coupe is a very pleasant upgrade IMO. It rides better which I suspect is mainly the longer wheelbase. The combination of the Coyote and T-56 I used is outstanding. I’m a huge supporter of power steering and IRS. Both add to the comfort and good manners. We are really enjoying being out of the wind and sun after years and thousands of miles of being in the open top Roadsters. But a Roadster with an optional top would be similar. It’s hard to explain, the but the Coupe just “feels” like a bigger car and not as quick and immediate as the Roadster. Positive or negative based on your expectations I guess.

In my case, did building three Roadsters before the Coupe help? Of course. But I really was a complete novice when I started. Plus each Roadster build was purposely quite different. I enjoy learning and trying new things. But there's no question the previous experience was useful. Could you build a Coupe? Yes. If you're sufficiently motivated to build a Roadster you could build a Coupe. Just recognize the differences. Also, keep it as simple as you can to get the final results you want. Modifications introduce a lot of variability and surprises. Especially for a new builder.

Hope that helps. Either is a great choice!

[Russwood]

That's great feedback. Thank you so much.

Our house is somewhat divided on the subject. I personally am very smitten by the Coupe. I loved the early versions of the Datsun Z cars - up to and through the 280's, and the profile is so very similar with the long, sleek front and short rear. Makes one wonder how much the Z cars were influenced by the Coupe. My wife had a 260Z back in the day, so you can guess where she votes (that's two for the Coupe). My son-in-law is strongly in the Roadster camp, and my son pretty much goes for whatever big brother-in-law likes. (I'll share someday the battles we have over sports teams!!) So we have a tie, and my daughter is abstaining. Probably because she doesn't want to be in the middle LOL. Smart girl.

With build costs between the two and it being my first, I'll likely do the Roadster first. It makes sense when I run the pros/cons. But be sure, there will be a build #2, and then the only debate will be what to drive!

I plan to place the order next week when we visit the showroom, with looking at a February 2022 delivery. Between the parts delays FFR is dealing with and my work schedule, having a several month gap in placing the order and delivery will surely help with the backorders (I hope). One big hurdle I'm dealing with as I plan the build is finding a top-notch paint shop. I want this to be a show-quality build, so body and paint are really critical to that being a success. I'm pretty sure the best aren't found on the internet, but by references & word of mouth. If anyone comes across this post that has suggestions for the Oklahoma City area (including Tulsa), please share.

Thanks again for the help, and I look forward to the coming months/years. I intend to do a build thread so I can document the process, but mostly so you masters can help school the apprentice! My big picture plans are to invest in a trailer so we can venture North & East to the shows, so hopefully our paths will cross some day.

[progmgr1]

FWIW, the way I found a skilled painter was to ask the guys in the local Corvette club (fiberglass bodies) who they use for top quality work. Then go talk to the lead person to see if they are someone you are comfortable working with, and ask to see several examples of their completed work. Be warned - it will be expensive and probably a long lead time! Less so for a Roadster, but still pricy. You may be able to save a few $ by doing the body work and block sanding yourself, but some painters don't allow that or won't warrant their work if you do. Check first!
HTH Keith HR #894

[easystreet_eric]

I saw you out driving this past Sunday, the car looked and sounded amazing, Great Job, hopefully I will see it at a car show sometime this season, a Daytona coupe was the last thing I thought I would see cruising around that day.

[James Morse]

@progmgr1 When you say the painting is "expensive" can you give me a ballpark order of magnitude price? Thanks. I realize if you do some prep work vs no prep work it would be different.

[edwardb]

@progmgr1 When you say the painting is "expensive" can you give me a ballpark order of magnitude price? Thanks. I realize if you do some prep work vs no prep work it would be different.

You directed your question to @progmgr1. But I'll respond and maybe send a PM to @progmgr1 for a personal response. Prices for body work and paint vary widely depending on a number of factors. Too many to list. But expect good quality body and paint for a Roadster to be in the $8 - 10K range. And higher in some cases. A Coupe will be more. Anywhere from 50% more and up. Be careful about DIY work if you're not going to do the entire job. Talk to the shop in advance and make sure they're on board with what you're doing. And a word of caution, poorly done work can add to the cost.

[progmgr1]

x2 on everything Paul (edwardb) said, with the additional caveats that prices vary widely depending on location, skill level and workload of the painter. I had some quotes a few years ago (in CA, pre-Covid) that were 50% higher than the numbers cited above. Also, automotive paints are expensive, and things like candies or other special finishes may add to the material cost and / or require more coats = more labor.
Keith HR #894

[mtdr]

Paul,
When you were building the trunk box, did you also have a shear in your shop. I saw you mentioned the 30" brake from Harbor Freight.
Tim

[edwardb]

Paul,
When you were building the trunk box, did you also have a shear in your shop. I saw you mentioned the 30" brake from Harbor Freight.
Tim

Nope. I don't have a shear. I cut all my aluminum on a band saw with a metal blade if it fits. If too large, use a handheld jig saw with a metal cutting blade. Then clean up the edges with a stationary disk/belt sander. Have done dozens of parts that way and works for me. I've updated my brake with a box brake from Woodward Fab. My Christmas present to myself. :o Talked about it in my truck build thread. It's a huge upgrade over the Harbor Freight one I used before. But the H-F one, although has limitations, will get the job done for not a lot of money.

[65DaytonaCoupe]

Paul, the lines into the expansion tank I understand all but one, the small one facing forward that might tap into the radiator fill neck, can I ask where you connected that to? thanks in advance

[edwardb]

Paul, the lines into the expansion tank I understand all but one, the small one facing forward that might tap into the radiator fill neck, can I ask where you connected that to? thanks in advance

If I understand the hose you're asking about, that one goes from the front of the expansion tank to the top of the radiator. The FF provided radiators I've used had a radiator drain valve in that location. Remove the valve, replace with the appropriate adapter, and connect the hose. Of particular note, in case you weren't aware, that hose requires a one-way check valve to work properly so it's necessary to buy the OE hose. For my Coupe, it was part number FR3Z-8075-C. Note also with this setup, there's no radiator fill neck. The coolant is added into the expansion tank.

[65DaytonaCoupe]

Thank You Paul!

[Bob Brandle]

Hey Paul, As I mentioned before, I really appreciate your Build Threads and the value you bring to the Factory Five Family.
For my Gen 3 Coupe with Gen 2 Coyote build, I'm about to enter the first engine start and then go-kart stages and then on to the body fitment.
I've followed your lead on the mounting locations of the 250A Buss Fuse and the Power Distribution Box on the firewall, trying for exactly the same locations.
Question, when the body is on, is there enough access to and space above the Power distribution box for any future need to open it up? The Cowl really seems to cover it and restrict access. I couldn't find anywhere in your build thread where you mention this nor possible remount the PDB. I know it'll be tight, but maybe OK to live with. Your comments? Recommendations?
Thanks! Bob

[edwardb]

Hey Paul, As I mentioned before, I really appreciate your Build Threads and the value you bring to the Factory Five Family.
For my Gen 3 Coupe with Gen 2 Coyote build, I'm about to enter the first engine start and then go-kart stages and then on to the body fitment.
I've followed your lead on the mounting locations of the 250A Buss Fuse and the Power Distribution Box on the firewall, trying for exactly the same locations.
Question, when the body is on, is there enough access to and space above the Power distribution box for any future need to open it up? The Cowl really seems to cover it and restrict access. I couldn't find anywhere in your build thread where you mention this nor possible remount the PDB. I know it'll be tight, but maybe OK to live with. Your comments? Recommendations?
Thanks! Bob

Hi Bob. Thanks. I agree the Coyote PDB in that location isn't real handy. But it's accessible enough IMO. With two Coyote builds, I've only had the lid off the PDB once or twice. Just not something you normally need to do much at all once the build is complete. My recommendation is leave it there. It works.

[Bob Brandle]

Thanks Paul. I'll leave it mounted as is, but, before the body goes on, I'll open it up and take a few documentation photos of what's inside.
Bob

[edwardb]

Thanks Paul. I'll leave it mounted as is, but, before the body goes on, I'll open it up and take a few documentation photos of what's inside.
Bob

Good idea. The Ford Performance control pack instructions also have a diagram and table of what's under there.

[65DaytonaCoupe]

would you mind sharing how the dash is attached and I assume its removable? thanks in advance

[edwardb]

would you mind sharing how the dash is attached and I assume its removable? thanks in advance

No, I don't mind. :o I wanted the fasteners to be mostly hidden. I have one on each upper corner under the A/C vents. I installed small angle brackets on the back before the vinyl wrap. With the vent cover off, the screws are reachable. There are two tabs on the lower outside corners that come that way stock. Used those. For the center, I have the switch cluster I made attached to the front transmission cover and then the underside of that attaches to the dash along the bottom. The dash is sold with all those fasteners.

Yes, the dash could come out in an emergency. But might not be nice since the body is resting on it and bulb seal around the front. I made the gauge cluster removable instead. It comes out with a couple screws along the bottom and then it's trapped between the dash and the upper dash tube along the top. A little hard to explain. Hope that makes sense. I've had to take the gauge cluster off once already to service the keyless module. Wasn't too bad. With the gauge cluster removed, basically everything behind the dash is reachable.

The dash looks nice and clean without external screws. But it's a lot of extra work. You'd have to decide if it's worth it.

[65DaytonaCoupe]

thank you Sir!

[Tooth]

You did an amazing job with this car. God willing I'll get to build one of these in the near future, and if it comes out one tenth of what your car is I'll be delighted. I've been flip flopping on building a factory five car for the better part of twenty years now. Biggest hold up is time. I get the bug, can't shake it for a while, then I chicken out. This time it feels different. I just can't shake the need to build one of these this time, and cars like yours are making it really hard to get it out of my head.

[edwardb]

You did an amazing job with this car. God willing I'll get to build one of these in the near future, and if it comes out one tenth of what your car is I'll be delighted. I've been flip flopping on building a factory five car for the better part of twenty years now. Biggest hold up is time. I get the bug, can't shake it for a while, then I chicken out. This time it feels different. I just can't shake the need to build one of these this time, and cars like yours are making it really hard to get it out of my head.

Thanks for the kind words. Come on in! The water's fine. Blast to build and amazing to drive. The Coupe is our favorite FFR build to date. Gets a ton of attention everywhere it goes. Even though it's amazing how many people don't know what it is until you tell the story.

[MSumners]

You did an amazing job with this car. God willing I'll get to build one of these in the near future, and if it comes out one tenth of what your car is I'll be delighted. I've been flip flopping on building a factory five car for the better part of twenty years now. Biggest hold up is time. I get the bug, can't shake it for a while, then I chicken out. This time it feels different. I just can't shake the need to build one of these this time, and cars like yours are making it really hard to get it out of my head.

Don’t let the time factor deter you. I work 60-70 hours most weeks and built a roadster. It took 3 years and just completing but I think you’ll find it’ll go quicker than anticipated, especially with good research. Just do it you won’t regret it.

[LateApex]

This is a great looking design! I am just wondering why two wheels on each side of your hood / bonnet closure system?

I have Al plate in hand, and inline skate wheels coming in the mail. Now, the devil is in the details :-)

[edwardb]

This is a great looking design! I am just wondering why two wheels on each side of your hood / bonnet closure system?

I have Al plate in hand, and inline skate wheels coming in the mail. Now, the devil is in the details :-)

It might work fine with one wheel per side. Just so happened that the idea I kinda sorta copied had two wheels per side so that's what I did. Keep in mind the wheels not only guide the hood when opening and closing, they also maintain the alignment at the bottom on both sides. Having two wheels gives that much more support. No downside in my opinion.

[B Campbell]

Hi Paul. do you have the demensions posted for your Hood Roller Brackets? I would like to make them while I have the Body off my Gen 3 Chassi.

[edwardb]

Hi Paul. do you have the demensions posted for your Hood Roller Brackets? I would like to make them while I have the Body off my Gen 3 Chassi.

I posted a tracing of the prototype pieces I still had around at the time. With a 6" ruler in the picture. This should be enough to duplicate them. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=400154&viewfull=1#post400154.

[CB_83]

Howdy! I run a fabrication shop in South Jersey, and we make a lot of things out of aluminum, mostly for the military. 6061 is a stronger alloy with higher tensile strength than 5052, but it's much more proned to cracking, especially as thickness increases, (1/8"+) and/or if too tight of a radius is used on the forming dies. Also forming a 45° for instance you can get away with on 6061 but trying to bend a tight 90° you run the risk of cracking. Annealing the bend area is another trick you can use to form harder alloys, but your effectively reducing the tensile strength in that area which raises the question, why use such a hard alloy in the first place. Anywho, most of our aluminum that needs forming is 5052 and the rest that's only sheared/punched/machined but not bent is 6061. At 0.040" thick though, i think you can bend just about any alloy of aluminum without issue, but since your box isn't a structural part, i would have chosen 5052 for easier working. BTW, thank you for your incredible documentation of your build. I know I'm a few years late to the party, but it's a tremendous resource you've put up here. Thank you!

[edwardb]

Howdy! I run a fabrication shop in South Jersey, and we make a lot of things out of aluminum, mostly for the military. 6061 is a stronger alloy with higher tensile strength than 5052, but it's much more proned to cracking, especially as thickness increases, (1/8"+) and/or if too tight of a radius is used on the forming dies. Also forming a 45° for instance you can get away with on 6061 but trying to bend a tight 90° you run the risk of cracking. Annealing the bend area is another trick you can use to form harder alloys, but your effectively reducing the tensile strength in that area which raises the question, why use such a hard alloy in the first place. Anywho, most of our aluminum that needs forming is 5052 and the rest that's only sheared/punched/machined but not bent is 6061. At 0.040" thick though, i think you can bend just about any alloy of aluminum without issue, but since your box isn't a structural part, i would have chosen 5052 for easier working. BTW, thank you for your incredible documentation of your build. I know I'm a few years late to the party, but it's a tremendous resource you've put up here. Thank you!

Factory Five uses 6061 exclusively for their kits. Mainly .040" and bend multiple angles up and and in some cases beyond 90 degrees. I've not experienced or heard of any issues with cracking with their parts. Clearly they know what they're doing. As far as the parts I've fabricated, I use what material I can get my hands on. Sometimes 6061. Other times 5052 from a local metal supplier. I am aware of the limitations and take necessary precautions. Having said that, the few parts I've fabricated (storage box, instrument panel switch box, glovebox, etc.) are not structural so no worries. Not my first time around this stuff. Since this build thread was posted, I've acquired a Woodward Fab box break, so have even a better handle on this. Glad you appreciated the build thread.

[sperger72]

Any idea where to get the part numbers for the vacuum connectors? Need to see exactly where to hook them up.

[Ltngdrvr]

It might work fine with one wheel per side. Just so happened that the idea I kinda sorta copied had two wheels per side so that's what I did. Keep in mind the wheels not only guide the hood when opening and closing, they also maintain the alignment at the bottom on both sides. Having two wheels gives that much more support. No downside in my opinion.

Looking at this guide wheel and bracket you fab'd, which obviously works just fine, it looks to me like a simpler solution would be a 90 degree bracket that would bolt on with the latch u-bolt, outside of the inner aluminum panel, looks to me like an easier way to do it.

[Dave Tabor]

Looking at this guide wheel and bracket you fab'd, which obviously works just fine, it looks to me like a simpler solution would be a 90 degree bracket that would bolt on with the latch u-bolt, outside of the inner aluminum panel, looks to me like an easier way to do it.

If you make set like that, please make another set for me - or share the CAD file!

Thanks,
Dave

Gen III #17

[edwardb]

Looking at this guide wheel and bracket you fab'd, which obviously works just fine, it looks to me like a simpler solution would be a 90 degree bracket that would bolt on with the latch u-bolt, outside of the inner aluminum panel, looks to me like an easier way to do it.


If you make set like that, please make another set for me - or share the CAD file!

Thanks,
Dave

Gen III #17

I never claimed my solution was the only way. As mentioned, mine is loosely based on versions I saw for previous gen Coupes. I don't see any reason why using the hood latch U-bolts wouldn't also work as an attachment point. Probably needs to be from steel versus the 1/8" aluminum I used. There's quite a bit of stress pushing against the wheels. Not sure a 90 degree bend in aluminum would be stiff enough. You would need to make sure you're offset far enough from the latch mechanism in the hood. It's obviously necessary for the wheels to be rolling on a smooth interrupted area of the hood underside. You'll also need to build in some way to adjust to get the wheels in just the right place. Someone suggested to put slots where the wheels attached. At least for the wheels I used, that wouldn't work. When tightened enough to not move in a slot they wouldn't turn. So I have slots on the inner part of the bracket and easy to adjust there by sliding the whole assembly.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_1281.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/186cc666-68d0-4881-b53c-af005ffe3552/p/374d82a4-cd5a-4e5c-84f5-ff70bcbbf121)

[jamminj]

Just went thru your pics
this car and all your builds are beautiful

[mtdr]

Hi Paul,
If you wouldn't mind, could you provide me the correct P/N and source for the Eibach 1" wheel spacers?

Thank you,
Tim
Mount Dora FL

[Namrups]

Tim, Follow this link. It is an album I have started that lists custom parts and tools, where to order them and what I paid for them. Most of these I also got from Pauls builds. Hope it helps.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=2045

[edwardb]

Hi Paul,
If you wouldn't mind, could you provide me the correct P/N and source for the Eibach 1" wheel spacers?

Thank you,
Tim
Mount Dora FL

They're Eibach 90.4.25.010.3 Pro-Spacer Wheel Spacer Kit, 25mm (1 inch), 70.50mm diameter, 1/2-20 thread size. Also pictured in Namrups gallery (nice, BTW). I bought them on Amazon four years ago. Looks like they still may have them available. But showing not available lots of other places. For my truck build, also needed 1 inch spacers and couldn't find the Eibach ones anywhere at that time. So did some looking and ended up with Coyote brand WHSP24 5450-5450-A, 6061 Billet Aluminum, Black Anodize, 5x4.50 - 5x4.50, 1.00", HC 70.50m, 1/2-20 thread size from CJ Pony Parts. I don't know that they're quite the quality of the Eibach ones. But about half the price and still hub centric. I'm more than happy with them as an alternative.

[lewma]

All, incase the Eibach spacers are hard to find. I ordered a set of these from Amazon and they arrived yesterday. Look to be a decent product and fit the hubs fine:

https://www.amazon.com/GAsupply-Centric-Spacers-Mustang-Victoria/dp/B089SZYDDK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

mark

[edwardb]

Not sure I've mentioned here. But have on other threads. Last August, while out cruising with our son, took a large rock or whatever off the windshield at the top driver side corner. Was a pretty sickening sound... Not long after, a crack started down from the divot left by whatever hit us. Ugh. I have glass coverage on my insurance, so cost wasn't a big concern. But sure wasn't looking forward to the effort required to remove and replace. No regular commercial shops, at least around here, will touch this. And I'm not sure I'd want them to. After looking at several options, went ahead and ordered a replacement from Factory Five. It's a 1986 Jaguar XJS windshield. Based on the brief research I did, not widely available plus I didn't want to risk not fitting. So placed my order with FF. Took a while to arrive. But didn't matter because I was able to drive the car the rest of the season and planned for it to be a winter project to replace. Today (finally...) it's done. I'm very fortunate to have a fellow club member who was in the OE automotive glass business. He's retired, but still helped along with a co-worker who's still at it. The same two guys that helped me install the glass during the original build. Of course this time had the added effort of removing the old one. Which was interesting to say the least. I know very little about this kind of thing. So tried to help and learn but mostly stayed out of the way. I won't describe the entire installation process since I did earlier in the build thread. But two takeaways. Beyond just avoiding those Michigan rocks or road hazards in the future. :p

1. I chose to use the Flexline UM1913BR 19mm trim rubber on the original build. I liked the cleaner look plus the windshield doesn't have polished edges and the fit in the body is slightly uneven. So made that decision early on. Well, that made removing the windshield quite an additional chore. The guys used a system that puts a wire around the perimeter of the windshield and then a winding mechanism on the inside that pulls the wire through the adhesive. Freeing the windshield. Bunch of YouTube videos showing how this works if you're interested. We had to cut the trim rubber off and out of the groove (as much as we could...) in order to get the wire down where it needed to be. Wasn't that hard. But stressful working around the painted body with sharp instruments. Plus there's gooey black butyl in the groove of the trim rubber that gets everywhere once you start cutting into it. What a mess! But got it done with no visible damage and finally got the windshield out.

2. The curve of the original windshield didn't match the curve of the body quite right. When set in place, was 1/2" or more high on both ends. Required it to be strapped down to get it to fit. Multiple other builders noted the same thing. So not unique to my build. Once the old windshield was out, checked the fit of the replacement. It was much better. Within 1/8" or maybe a little more and could have probably been taped down if I wasn't using the rubber trim. Don't know if FF changed something with the supplier. The replacement windshield has the same DOT code as the original. So from the same mfg. I know this windshield is from a recent shipment. So at least a couple years newer. Or maybe the fiberglass body had moved/changed and is now more conformed to the windshield. Bottom line a lot better. Once everything was cleaned up and the old urethane cut out of the opening, masked and painted the frit on the windshield with the same Dow Black Betaprime 5504G as used before. Installed the new rubber trim, put a V-bead of Dow Betaseal U-428 Plus adhesive around the opening, and pushed the new windshield into place. Strapped the windshield down the same as before, but didn't have to use nearly as much pressure. Actually pretty light. Mainly was necessary to get the rubber trim to drop down into place. It just barely fits. I let it cure for a couple days as suggested and today removed the straps and put everything back together.

Summary: If I ever build another Coupe, I will probably not use the trim rubber. It complicates the installation. If you're unlucky like me and get to replace the windshield, makes that process more complicated too. I briefly considered not using it on the replacement windshield. But I was already committed plus the cut-out of the windshield didn't do any favors to the perimeter of the body that's covered with the trim in place. I for sure won't be using any on the front and rear glass of the truck build I'm working on now.

That's it. Now let the driving season begin.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164792&d=1648671887

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=164793&d=1648671887

[James Morse]

Super nice result though, Paul, after all the work. I had a question, you mentioned the first windshield being quite a bit off as to meeting the body and about strapping them (old and new) down. When this is done, are you actually bending the windshield to fit or is it pushing the rubber down in the middle so the edges fit, or what? I can't imagine the glass bending to fit, plus then it would be under stress to pop out... so there must be something I'm not understanding about it.

Thanks for the terrific write up and pics.

[Ltngdrvr]

Super nice result though, Paul, after all the work. I had a question, you mentioned the first windshield being quite a bit off as to meeting the body and about strapping them (old and new) down. When this is done, are you actually bending the windshield to fit or is it pushing the rubber down in the middle so the edges fit, or what? I can't imagine the glass bending to fit, plus then it would be under stress to pop out... so there must be something I'm not understanding about it.

Thanks for the terrific write up and pics.

The windshield bends, and the adhesive is very strong.
You'd be surprised how much the windshield will flex.

[edwardb]

Super nice result though, Paul, after all the work. I had a question, you mentioned the first windshield being quite a bit off as to meeting the body and about strapping them (old and new) down. When this is done, are you actually bending the windshield to fit or is it pushing the rubber down in the middle so the edges fit, or what? I can't imagine the glass bending to fit, plus then it would be under stress to pop out... so there must be something I'm not understanding about it.

Thanks for the terrific write up and pics.


The windshield bends, and the adhesive is very strong.
You'd be surprised how much the windshield will flex.

What he said. The windshield bends. As I think everyone knows, it's safety glass so two rather thin layers of glass with plastic between. Total thickness is under 1/4 inch. So relatively flexible. And that urethane adhesive, properly applied with primer, etc. is amazingly strong. But on the original installation, with or without the rubber trim, something was needed to seat the windshield on the ends until the adhesive cured. Thus the straps and padded blocks. Others doing builds at the same time were doing the same thing. That's where I got the idea. The replacement windshield was close enough that it probably could have been just pushed into place and taped were it not for the rubber trim. Hopefully guys doing new builds will have a similar fit. It's easier and a lot less stressful.

[jamminj]

edwardb I'm getting ready to remove my body off my coupe r and with all those extra bars i worry about cracking the fiberglass any suggestions thanks james
i sent you a private message also

[edwardb]

edwardb I'm getting ready to remove my body off my coupe r and with all those extra bars i worry about cracking the fiberglass any suggestions thanks james
i sent you a private message also

This build isn't an R Coupe. I haven't even seen one in person. So pretty hesitant to offer advice for something I have no experience or knowledge of. Just looking at the chassis pictures on the FF website, looks like the main bars affecting the main body shell would be the added bars across the door openings. But again, that's just an observation. Not advice. I will tell you the bodies in general are more flexible than you might think and within reason not prone to cracking. Keep in mind the guys at FF that prepped your kit for shipping dropped it on there. Mainly I would suggest to have as much help as possible so you can lift and spread it as evenly and carefully as possible. Also, if you have a powder coated frame, might want to have some towels and/or rags available to pad the chassis when taking the body on and off. Keeps from scratching things up.

[jamminj]

i knew yours wasn't a type r but i appreciate any input
thank you
unfortunately, it came all scratched up they chewed it up putting the aluminum panels in but i will try my best not to make it worse

[jamminj]

body is off wow lots of flexing

[burchfieldb]

The front suspension is completely assembled except for the sway bar. Missing the sway bar bushings so can’t finish it yet. Everything else is done. The front suspension uses all the same components as the Roadster, so nothing too earthshaking here. Had to remove powder coat from holes, spread the tabs a bit on a couple, and adjust one of the holes just slightly on one LCA tab to get it to line up. Other than that, went together very normally and everything fit perfectly. I put grease into the LCA and UCA pivots before assembly. Confirms they are greased properly right from the start, plus makes them go together a little easier. I used a paint marker to indicate final torque completed as I went. For the upper ball joints, also put witness marks to monitor they aren’t moving.

As mentioned before, did use Howe Racing 22320S ball joints. Also switched the upper ball joint and tie rod ends to Energy Suspension boots. I used the Breeze 3-turn Unisteer power steering rack. Before putting in the coilovers, I propped the suspension up to approximate ride height and tried to get the alignment a little in the ball park. On the UCA, have the front adjuster out 2-3 times as much as the rear one for caster, used a level on the brake disks and adjusted to -.5 degrees camber, then used a laser pointer on the brake disks to get the toe relatively straight to the chassis. Probably won’t be all that close when it’s time for the real alignment. But hopefully not totally random. I don’t have the brakes completely assembled yet. I’ll do the safety wires and finalize everything at the same time as the rear brakes. From earlier today:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78116&d=1513992431

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78115&d=1513992421
 
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78114&d=1513992409

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78113&d=1513992393

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78118&d=1513992458

The last picture shows the Moog ES2150RL tie rod ends I’ve used on all my builds. They’re nice quality pieces, and I especially like how the threaded ends come through to the inside. Makes it real easy to confirm you have proper thread engagement. Plus eliminates having to trim the ends.

Several observations from the assembly specific to the Coupe. Factory Five provides two sets of holes for all the components including the steering rack. The lower holes for street use, the upper for racing use. I used all the lower holes except at the last minute noticed the instructions said to use the upper holes for the upper coilover mount if using the double action Koni’s like I have. Good thing I read the instructions. I changed the direction of the bolt installation for the front LCA mount and the steering rack. Installed like shown in the instructions would have made them difficult if not impossible to remove once the radiator is installed. On the Anniversary Roadster #8674 build, also with the Koni double action shocks, I had to trim where the shocks mount on the LCA to eliminate interference. Wasn’t necessary this time. FF changed the mount tabs so they no longer interfere. Continuous improvement! Way to go.

I also installed the steering column so I could center up the rack when installing and connecting the tie rod ends. Found out that I again had to mount the footbox steering shaft bearing on the inside of the footbox. Same as the Anniversary Roadster build, which had the same Breeze Unisteer power rack. Apparently that input shaft is slightly long. It’s not possible to get the steering shaft onto the rack input with the bearing on the outside of the footbox. Had to trim the bearing shells slightly along one edge, but other than that, no problem with it being inside. Another thing I noticed is Unisteer is now putting a groove around the entire diameter of the input shaft for the adapter set screw. So no matter where you orient it, the set screw drops into it. This is different than before (and most other racks) that just have a single cutout for the set screw. Then guys start wondering what to do when the steering wheel won't center with the rack.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78117&d=1513992440

Next up is to get the center section prepped and installed. Still don’t have IRS control arms, so won’t be able to do too much more there until they arrive. Hopefully soon. Plenty of other stuff to keep working on.

My son gave me this very cool 1:18 scale Daytona Coupe die-cast model for Christmas. Pretty well known model of the Coupe. I have the Cobra version already, so they’re a matched set. Well, except it's red. He said something about showing me how the Coupe needs to be blue. We’ll see.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=78119&d=1513992527

Paul,
I am working on planning my build, while I wait for my kit to arrive, what made you use the Breeze 3-turn Unisteer power steering rack vs the one from Factory Five?

[edwardb]

Paul, I am working on planning my build, while I wait for my kit to arrive, what made you use the Breeze 3-turn Unisteer power steering rack vs the one from Factory Five?

Back when I did the 20th Anniversary Roadster Factory Five either didn't have a PS rack or were just offering it. Don't remember. Based on several recommendations, I purchased a Unisteer (Maval Industries) rack from Breeze. Was very happy with it so just duplicated that same rack on the Coupe. It's a moot point though, because Breeze doesn't offer it any more. Mark recommends a new rack from BBB Industries (a buddy just talked to him) but doesn't sell them. Many use reman Fox Mustang racks from their local parts stores. Cheap and lifetime warranties typically. Some have good luck with them. Some not. Of course the PS rack Factory Five offers is certainly an option. I personally don't have any experience with them though. There are other high-end racks, like Flaming River, but no experience with them either. Multiple choices...

[burchfieldb]

Good to know, thanks for the knowledge.

[LateApex]

Hi Paul -

You probably have had as many comments or questions on this design point as you can stand. Here is one (or two) more. BTW, this is all because you have a great design here :-)

1) Why two wheels? As opposed to one? I am thinking that with the locating pins at the fore of the pontoons, once one gets the bonnet lip past the U-joints, maybe a second wheel is not needed, as the pins help? Did you find that because of the slight flair or the bonnet, a little more support from the bottom wheel helped?

2) I believe I saw a comment you made on this topic concerning the amount of pressure on the wheel as motivation for affixing the aluminum strut (if you will) to the rear surface of the U-bolt bracket/support feature. I am considering using the U-bolt support as the mounting base for an L-shaped strut that has a 90-degree bend, where the wheel (or wheels) can be mounted aft of the U-bolt. My thinking is that the "L" plate can be shimmed with lock nuts on the U-Bolt to give the adjustment or pressure needed on the bonnet.

I am wondering what your thoughts are concerning use of one wheel, and/or use of an L-shaped wheel mounting bracket. Was this an option you looked at?

I am getting my body back from painting in a week. Working on these last bits of fitment :-)

Thx in advance!!

... Bob

[edwardb]

Hi Paul -

You probably have had as many comments or questions on this design point as you can stand. Here is one (or two) more. BTW, this is all because you have a great design here :-)

1) Why two wheels? As opposed to one? I am thinking that with the locating pins at the fore of the pontoons, once one gets the bonnet lip past the U-joints, maybe a second wheel is not needed, as the pins help? Did you find that because of the slight flair or the bonnet, a little more support from the bottom wheel helped?

2) I believe I saw a comment you made on this topic concerning the amount of pressure on the wheel as motivation for affixing the aluminum strut (if you will) to the rear surface of the U-bolt bracket/support feature. I am considering using the U-bolt support as the mounting base for an L-shaped strut that has a 90-degree bend, where the wheel (or wheels) can be mounted aft of the U-bolt. My thinking is that the "L" plate can be shimmed with lock nuts on the U-Bolt to give the adjustment or pressure needed on the bonnet.

I am wondering what your thoughts are concerning use of one wheel, and/or use of an L-shaped wheel mounting bracket. Was this an option you looked at?

I am getting my body back from painting in a week. Working on these last bits of fitment :-)

Thx in advance!!

... Bob

Hi Bob. Thanks for the shout out for the design. But truthfully it's my take on a similar design Whitby's offered for the previous generation Coupes. Which they attribute to Don Vaught. There's no longer a picture on their website however. Those Coupes had a different design for the U-bolt attachment. So I changed the design somewhat to bolt them to the side of the Gen 3 U-bolt mount as shown. I found the U-bolt adjustment is relatively critical (and sensitive) to the alignment of the cowl (bonnet, hood, whatever...) so I didn't want to mess with that to adjust the rollers. That led me to keep the mounting separate from the U-bolt. Again similar to the earlier design. Having said that, no reason to think this is the only way to do it. I suspect what you're describing would work. A single wheel likely would work as well. After all, it's mainly just replacing one bumper. But the location would need to be right. High enough to catch the cowl as it's coming down and position for the alignment pins in the pontoons. And low enough to keep the cowl properly aligned to the body, e.g. replacing the lowest bumper that was removed. Again, I was adopting another design that used two wheels on each side, and to be honest never questioned that aspect. Good luck with yours.

[freds]

Hi Bob. Thanks for the shout out for the design. But truthfully it's my take on a similar design Whitby's offered for the previous generation Coupes. Which they attribute to Don Vaught. There's no longer a picture on their website however. Those Coupes had a different design for the U-bolt attachment. So I changed the design somewhat to bolt them to the side of the Gen 3 U-bolt mount as shown. I found the U-bolt adjustment is relatively critical (and sensitive) to the alignment of the cowl (bonnet, hood, whatever...) so I didn't want to mess with that to adjust the rollers. That led me to keep the mounting separate from the U-bolt. Again similar to the earlier design. Having said that, no reason to think this is the only way to do it. I suspect what you're describing would work. A single wheel likely would work as well. After all, it's mainly just replacing one bumper. But the location would need to be right. High enough to catch the cowl as it's coming down and position for the alignment pins in the pontoons. And low enough to keep the cowl properly aligned to the body, e.g. replacing the lowest bumper that was removed. Again, I was adopting another design that used two wheels on each side, and to be honest never questioned that aspect. Good luck with yours.

Since the skirt of the hood 1. Bowed and 2. Does not come down vertically, but in an arc.
I made a simple setup which is adjustable and allows the roller (a shower runner) to be set to the arc of the descending hood skirt......from some aluminum I had lying around.
Was going to re-make to be more visually "pretty" but it works so well, I have never got around to it.

170098
170099

[LateApex]

Thanx guys !

I'll post a couple of photos when I get my bracket dialed in :-)

[Rian_Colorado]

Hey Paul!
I know this is from years ago - but could you expand a bit on how you mounted the 3rd brake / LED brake light in the rear spoiler? Is your mounting setup glued to the inside of the spoiler in some fashion? I can't tell from your pictures how it's secured.
Love the finished look!

Thanks
Rian

[edwardb]

Hey Paul!
I know this is from years ago - but could you expand a bit on how you mounted the 3rd brake / LED brake light in the rear spoiler? Is your mounting setup glued to the inside of the spoiler in some fashion? I can't tell from your pictures how it's secured.
Love the finished look!

Thanks
Rian

The bottom of the spoiler is wide enough that it can go in from there and allow the visible cutout to match the outline of the light. Since I wanted it basically flush with the outside, bonded base studs (like these https://www.mcmaster.com/97590A561/) to the inside and then extended the mounting over with small aluminum pieces with nutserts. With this, the light just fit through the bottom and is suspended in place with its mounting bolts through the fixture itself. I'm also very happy with how it turned out. It's relatively subtle when not lit. I like how it has low intensity along with the running lights. But then very bright when braking. The FF supplied LED's for the balance of the lights are also very bright. No one ever complains they can't see my intentions while driving. Visible in this brief video I made during the build, in case you didn't see it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAzI1ulTMV8.

This post from earlier in the build thread shows the inside and what I did: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=367203&viewfull=1#post367203.

[orangecruz]

Hi pal do you have a link to your build thread for this please :cool:

[edwardb]

Hi pal do you have a link to your build thread for this please :cool:

For the entire Coupe build? You're in it... On page 27. Hit the "First" button at the bottom RH of the screen to go to the beginning.

Or something else? :confused:

[LateApex]

Thanx guys !

I'll post a couple of photos when I get my bracket dialed in :-)

As promised ...

Here are two photos of my design:171229171230

It is simply aluminum sheet stock beaten into an L-bracket and drilled to mount with the hood clasp U-bolts. I eyeballed the location of the skate wheel, and I can shim it as needed with washers or jam nuts (at least outward, which informed my wheel mounting point). I'll take this off, paint the bracket and use a little Loctite on the wheel mounting bolt. There are a couple of nylon washers in the stack to help the wheels roll - hah!

Cost is approximately $0. The design principles are "Use what you already have when you can", "Keep it simple" and "Don't aim for too much precision." These guide rollers get the bonnet into "the neighborhood", where locating pins and clasps take care of the precise alignment.

Hope this helps ...

[BigShooter]

Paul,
Thanks for the descriptive on the battery wiring. Very helpful.
You say the 'switched' side of the battery cutoff side - how do I tell which side is which on the provided FFR battery cutoff switch? (for some reason couldn't add an image to this reply). It's just a switch - so does it matter which side gets the hot battery connection?
Also, you used a bus - are there issues with just stacking the 3 red Ron Francis connectors onto one side of a battery cutoff switch?

[LateApex]

I interpret the switched side as the backside of the switch, which routes to fuses. As opposed to the hot side of the switch which is fed 12V from the battery (perhaps via the starter post) As you note, the switch itself cares not which post you connect to :-) Hope this helps ...

[BigShooter]

I interpret the switched side as the backside of the switch, which routes to fuses. As opposed to the hot side of the switch which is fed 12V from the battery (perhaps via the starter post) As you note, the switch itself cares not which post you connect to :-) Hope this helps ...

Yes, that does help - thank you!

[edwardb]

Paul,
Thanks for the descriptive on the battery wiring. Very helpful.
You say the 'switched' side of the battery cutoff side - how do I tell which side is which on the provided FFR battery cutoff switch? (for some reason couldn't add an image to this reply). It's just a switch - so does it matter which side gets the hot battery connection?
Also, you used a bus - are there issues with just stacking the 3 red Ron Francis connectors onto one side of a battery cutoff switch?

As already answered, doesn't matter which post you use for hot or switched. The two posts are either open or closed depending on switch position. As far as connecting all three Ron Francis power connectors to the switch, sure you can do that. I prefer a different approach using a bus bar plus I wire the alternator differently. But those are preferences and not required it you want to stay with the harness as is.

[LateApex]

Regarding car covers Paul, what key differences exist, car cover fit wise, between Gen 2 and 3? Car Cover currently only lists Gen 1/2 in cover options for the Daytona ...

Thx!

[LateApex]

Never mind ... After more digging, the changes are too many to count :-) Haha

[edwardb]

Regarding car covers Paul, what key differences exist, car cover fit wise, between Gen 2 and 3? Car Cover currently only lists Gen 1/2 in cover options for the Daytona ...

Thx!

I can't answer that question directly. When the Gen 3 was announced, Dave Smith described how they had changed some things on the body including the rear fender flares, spoiler, rear end, etc. When I talked to Car Cover World about 2-1/2 years ago, they suggested going through a design exercise with a worksheet they provided and I did a bunch of measuring. They made my cover from those measurements. I'm happy with the fit and recommend that over one of the previous generation covers. If you don't see it listed on their website, you should call them. They specifically said that others could order a Gen 3 cover using the dimensions I provided and not pay the $35 design fee. Pretty sure several have done that.

[edwardb]

Actually 5,264 miles to be precise. Since I’ve decided last Saturday’s club cars and coffee will be the last drive of the year, thought I’d post a longer-term report on my build thread. Appreciate when other build threads provide follow-up, so thought I'd do the same. Always good that the driving season can make it to November here in Michigan. Looks like at least a few more days of mild weather ahead but could change any time so decided to shut things down. The truck is being painted now (!!) so no further work there right now. Will use the available time for the usual oil change, lube, check-up, etc. The Coupe is up on the lift (pictured below) with the wheels off and work is underway. Not done yet, but so far everything looks fine. With the road dirt off, still looks brand new underneath. Brakes still have plenty of lining. All fluids topped. Chassis lube complete. Oil change still pending. Will go over all the main suspension bolts and make sure all still secure.

Our driving was down a little bit this season due to family travel, some medical activities, etc. But still got out as much as we could. Season one was cut short by the COVID shutdown, but the last two seasons have been busy. Two London Cobra Shows. One in the Factory Five display. The other as a regular person. The Factory Five Open House, Detroit Autorama, invitations to the Detroit EyesOn Design Concours and M1 American Speed Festival where we met Peter Brock (a real honor, he loved the Coupe), two Woodward Dream Cruises, multiple Great Lakes Cobra Club events and cruises, and a number of other local shows and cars and coffees. Longest cruise to date was just over 200 miles. Which was easy and uneventful. The Coupe draws a lot of interest everywhere it goes and has won several nice awards. It remains an absolute blast to drive. Every time I get in and go somewhere I’m reminded how much I like it. My wife is a great sport and attends nearly everything with me. My sons and I are the only ones who’ve driven it, and it will stay that way. My wife says “never” so I take that as a pretty clear position. Our driving is nearly all street cruising. Did get some charity rides down Main Street in London, so got to stretch its legs a little there. Plus, we did a parade lap around the track at M1 and I was able to lay back and punch it a couple times. Nothing extreme. But I remain 100% impressed with the Gen 3 Coyote, the IRS setup, the T-56 transmission, Wilwood brakes, everything. It all just works beautifully. Congratulations to Dave Smith and the team at Factory Five (again) for a fantastic product that I'm extremely proud to own.

I’ve only had four things that needed to be addressed during these miles. Some I mentioned previously in the build thread. First, the Digital Guard Dawg module had to be sent back because it “forgot” the emergency bypass code. Wouldn’t have discovered it if yours truly hadn’t erased all the remote key fob codes by not following the directions. But happened during winter downtime, so didn't interrupt driving. DGD sent a new module rather than reflashing the old one. Second, managed to collect a rock while cruising and broke the windshield. Was challenging to get the old one out and had to wait a bit for the replacement from Factory Five. But thankful for insurance glass coverage and all fixed. Third, the Odyssey PC925T battery started cranking slow this year. So swapped the new one I had on hand for the truck. Used the old battery for the truck build and it eventually completely died. It was 4+ years old and no amount of recovery charging would bring it back. Seems like it should have lasted longer. Fourth, my Russ Thompson turn signal assembly stopped "latching" in the RH direction. I tried unsuccessfully to fix it and so did Russ. He replaced with a new mechanism (at cost) and it's been fine ever since. He said the most recent batch of mechanisms were from a new vendor and appeared to be higher quality. Another winter time fix that didn't interrupt anything. That’s it. Absolutely no other mechanical or functional issues since new. Not bad.

I’m impressed with how the paint is holding up. When cleaned up, still looks as good as when it came out of the shop. I’m amazed how few rock chips the nose takes compared to the Roadster. There were a few that I repaired after the first season. But none since other than a couple of real small ones along the back edge of the fenders. That Peter Brock aerodynamic shape maybe helps? I have scraped the underneath of the nose twice. First time was on the second time we had it out getting a burger at an A&W drive-in. Grrr!!! Caught another parking bumper on a cruise the following year. Both are all fixed and not visible. And I try to be much more careful with where I point the nose. It sticks out further than you realize and it’s a little hard to see.

Negatives? Well a few maybe. Yes, it's a little hard to get in and out of. But I will say practice helps a lot. Don't even think about it any more. The quick release steering wheel helps a bunch. I highly recommend. Yes, it's also loud. We wear our ear protection all the time. Once you get over that, it's not an issue. This season I've been using Sony WF-1000XM4 Noise Canceling Wireless Earbuds. Very happy with them. I don't try to talk on my phone while driving, but nice that they're connected via Bluetooth so I know when I get a call, message, whatever. Also works fantastic when using the map function on my phone for driving directions. The prompts are right there in your ears. Could be used for music too. But I prefer not to do that. Finally, yes it's warm inside even on mild days and the Factory Five A/C I would rate as "OK." We don't have super hot weather here in Michigan, so most of the time it's fine. But on really hot days (upper 90's+, humid, etc.) at full blast it helps and is comfortable but its not going to freeze you out. I still recommend it. But don't expect it to be daily driver level. The heater, on the other hand, works great.

Would I do anything differently if I built another one? Honestly, probably not. I'd maybe think about door poppers. But I'm pretty used to reaching in through the windows and not a big deal. But probably would be a nice touch and would integrate nicely to the DGD system. A lot of people comment about the side windows and ask whether I'd prefer roll-up windows. I just don't think it's a big deal. I'm fine with the windows as they are. With the heat and sound issues mentioned previously, I just don't know how often you'd really want the windows rolled down. At least that's the case for us. I commented earlier in the build thread I'd add more sound insulation on the outside of the chassis by the side pipes. That might help a little with the sound. But again, not a big deal since ear protection is going to be the norm IMO for all builds.

That’s about it. Thinking about maybe doing the Detroit Autorama again this year. It's the last week in February. Would like to take the truck, but doubt it will be painted and back together by then. (Not every build or paint job gets done at Erik Treves speed... :rolleyes:) If the truck's not done, would take the Coupe again. I've done Autorama four times and each time with a different build. So would be a repeat for the Coupe. But I enjoy doing that show and it's a good winter diversion.

We love our Coupe and hope it keeps giving us great rides and great service. I’ve flipped my Roadster builds. But this one isn’t going anywhere. Even though several have asked. For those that are building, keep at it. I predict you’re going to really enjoy the final result.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=174609&d=1667857406

[Nigel Allen]

I use the same Sony ear buds with my roadster. They are excellent for reducing the wind noise, whilst still leaving exhaust note audible enough.
I mostly switch to noise cancelling above 80kph. Great for music on long trips.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Nice report Paul. Coupe looks great as always, even on the lift! I kind of figured this one was a "keeper" and haven't expected it would be going anywhere, truck or no truck ;) So, do you suppose you can get Sharon interested in getting behind the wheel of the pickup? I'll look forward to seeing it with some color (and gee, wonder what that color might be???).

Have a good winter!

Jeff

[edwardb]

Nice report Paul. Coupe looks great as always, even on the lift! I kind of figured this one was a "keeper" and haven't expected it would be going anywhere, truck or no truck ;) So, do you suppose you can get Sharon interested in getting behind the wheel of the pickup? I'll look forward to seeing it with some color (and gee, wonder what that color might be???).

Have a good winter!

Jeff

Thanks Jeff. I keep telling Sharon I configured the truck to make it easy for her to drive (automatic, PS, PB, etc.) but so far still getting the "never" answer. We'll see, but honestly not expecting that to change. Yes, the truck will be red (big surprise) but not a candy or metallic like the last several builds. More of a true red. Picked the shade out of a color book and the auto paint place mixed for us. Anxious to get it done. The amount of fiberglass parts and body work on that build were about all that I could handle. All that's left now is to put it all back together.

You have a good winter as well.

[burchfieldb]

Then to the flex attachment points.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81748&d=1519741031

That’s it for brakes. For the fuel lines, I’m planning to put the adjustable regulator on the angled firewall area on the DS. So routed the lines accordingly. Here’s where they come into the engine compartment. There will be SS flex with -6AN fittings to the regulator from here. Same as at the fuel tank.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81751&d=1519741060

Then through the tunnel to the back. I had to take a jog around the T-56 shifter.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81752&d=1519741069

Then out the back and turned to the Trick Flow TFS-23006 fuel filter I’m using. Same (again…) as #8674.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81753&d=1519741078

Now that I have the lines installed, I can make up the flex lines to the Pro-M Racing fuel pump hangar. Already mentioned that in a previous post. Has true 3/8-inch in and out and pre-installed -AN6 connections. Perfect. The rear harness is just laying there right now. Next up is get the locations finalized and I’ll install with some padded clamps. Here’s an overall view. Feels good to get this part done.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81756&d=1519741109

So on to a few other points. Several have asked about the tools I use for brake and fuel lines. Based on multiple recommendations on this forum, picked up the Eastwood Professional Flaring tool during my first build. Not cheap, but they’re regularly on sale. I highly recommend. The quality of the flares are as good as any factory ones. Often better actually. Just need to practice on SS to get the right pressure mainly for the second step.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81739&d=1519740803

For bending tools, I started out with an Eastwood triple head bender on my first build. I didn’t feel like it worked all that well, especially for SS. The handles are pretty short, so for 3/8 SS was literally almost more than I could do to bend. I’ve since settled on these three dedicated size benders. All work very well. Ridgid provides decent benders that are better IMO than the average run-of-the-mill benders. Not Swagelok quality, but a fraction of the cost. I use a Ridgid 36097 3/8-inch, Ridgid 36117 3/16-inch, and a smaller 3/16-inch bender from InLine Tube. It does an even tighter radius when that's needed. All highly recommended. Here are pics of each and the bends they make in SS.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=81740&d=1519740813

Paul,
Where did you get your brake line tee from? Is it stainless or coated steel?

[edwardb]

Paul,
Where did you get your brake line tee from? Is it stainless or coated steel?

The tees are: J9035 Gardner-Westcott Fitting, Brake Adapter, Tee, 3/8-24 in., 3/8-24 in., 3/8-24 in., Inverted Flare, Brass, Chrome finish.

[maclonchas]

Paul,
Can you send me that same list? I am hanging to the Coupe.
Thanks
Bill

[edwardb]

Paul,
Can you send me that same list? I am hanging to the Coupe.
Thanks
Bill

PM Sent

[maclonchas]

Yes, that's everything you need. Lots of people get the whole package from Factory Five like you did. With the IRS rear suspension option plus the 2015 Mustang IRS center section, spindles, and hubs, that's technically everything for the IRS. All you need to add is brakes, which you would have to anyway.

The rest of the story is the center section comes in a number of versions. Some are iron case. Some aluminum. There are multiple ratios. 3.15, 3.31, 3.55 and 3.73. All but the 3.73 are a clutch type limited slip. The Torsen uses gears instead of clutch plates. They're roughly twice the price. The 3.73 Torsen setup is considered a higher performance option for the Mustang as part of one of their Performance Packs. How much it helps in these builds is open to some debate, how the car is used, etc. I wouldn't panic if I were you. Nearly every build (including mine to date) use the Ford traction lock clutch setup and it works fine. I would want to know which diff Factory Five is providing to you and then you need to make sure that's OK for your build. My guess is they're providing the 3.55. It's probably the most common. Run the numbers in a calculator (like this one http://www.tremec.com/calculadora.php) and confirm you're OK with it.

Like I said, I want to use 3.73 gearing for my build so ended up with the Torsen setup by default. Which is OK since I've wanted to try it. I could have bought a lower priced non-Torsen setup and changed to 3.73 gears. But really didn't want to open and change a brand new diff. I've done it before. Not terrible, but prefer not to.

Paul,

Just a quick question on the IRS. If you get the IRS option for the coupe and get a complete clip for IRS from the yard (3.55 or 3.73) with the brakes rotors, emergency cables etc, am I missing something from not getting the separate brakes and IRS center etc.

I hope this makes sense the question I am asking?

Thanks

Bill

[edwardb]

Paul,

Just a quick question on the IRS. If you get the IRS option for the coupe and get a complete clip for IRS from the yard (3.55 or 3.73) with the brakes rotors, emergency cables etc, am I missing something from not getting the separate brakes and IRS center etc.

I hope this makes sense the question I am asking?

Thanks

Bill

Other than the brakes, the only useable parts are the center section and knuckles/hubs. The brakes may be useable but I have zero experience since I've used Wilwoods on both of my IRS builds. So can't offer any advice, sorry. Many have used the newer Mustang brakes, so others should be able to offer some direction. Factory Five sells a version as well. Doubt very much whether the e-brake cables from a donor pallet will be the right length or connection. New are relatively cheap. Sure wouldn't make any decisions based on trying to reuse those.

Bottom line for me, based on buying a complete IRS pallet for my previous 20th Anniversary Roadster, is the shipping costs exceed the added value of a complete pallet. And then you're left with trying to dispose of all the unused parts.

[maclonchas]

Paul,

Thanks. If it sounds too good to be true... then it probable is ...

Bill

[maclonchas]

Paul,

Do not know if you have it anywhere, but what are the rough dimensions on that panel? Just noodling some different concepts and need that information to decide if what I want to do is feasible. The panel for the gauges.... sorry

Thanks

Bill

[edwardb]

Paul,

Do not know if you have it anywhere, but what are the rough dimensions on that panel? Just noodling some different concepts and need that information to decide if what I want to do is feasible. The panel for the gauges.... sorry

Thanks

Bill

Measured as best I can on the finished dash -- 17-1/4" long x 6-1/4" wide. I wouldn't cut any metal or fabricate anything off those dimensions. But they're close.

[maclonchas]

Thanks

[maclonchas]

edwardB,

Another silly question since I do not have my kit yet and have to go between the manual and threads to piece together the story each one tells of the install. It will be much easier when I have the kit and actually visualize the components. I think I see that the NRG Quick release has to mount to the RT turn signal or FFR provided boss. You need to drill and tap NRG to make one unit to allow the bolt to the boss or RT device. Is that correct? The adapter for the steering wheel that you bolt onto the steering wheel, does that come with the NRG kit or is that a seperate purchase?

Sorry in advance if I missed that piece of the puzzle. Just trying to get my steps right and in my build book.

Thanks

Bill

[Namrups]

I documented the install at https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?41418-The-race-is-on-Namrups-65-Daytona-Coupe-build&p=500156&viewfull=1#post500156. Paul also documented it in his build as have others. Should answer your questions with pictures which I find helpful understanding the installation when you don't have the parts to look at.

[edwardb]

edwardB,

Another silly question since I do not have my kit yet and have to go between the manual and threads to piece together the story each one tells of the install. It will be much easier when I have the kit and actually visualize the components. I think I see that the NRG Quick release has to mount to the RT turn signal or FFR provided boss. You need to drill and tap NRG to make one unit to allow the bolt to the boss or RT device. Is that correct? The adapter for the steering wheel that you bolt onto the steering wheel, does that come with the NRG kit or is that a seperate purchase?

Sorry in advance if I missed that piece of the puzzle. Just trying to get my steps right and in my build book.

Thanks

Bill

Hopefully this explanation makes sense:

1. The kit comes with a steering wheel boss, steering wheel, and center cap. The boss bolts to the steering shaft coming out of the dash, the steering wheel bolts to the boss, and the cap covers up the fasteners. Installed this way, some of the steering shaft is exposed and the the kit provided manual turn signal switch is typically installed on the dash.

2. The Russ Thompson turn signal mod provides a self-cancelling turn signal stalk (what most of us are used to) and cleans up the appearance of the exposed steering shaft. Plus provides an intermittent switch button on the end of the stalk that you can use for whatever you want. Typically low/high beam switching or the horn. In order to install this mod, you send the kit provided steering wheel boss to Russ and he machines it to work with the turn signal assembly including tabs on the back for the self-cancelling function. The mod does not change how the steering wheel attaches to the boss or the provided center cap.

3. The NRG quick release goes between the steering wheel boss and the steering wheel. Doesn't matter whether the Russ Thompson turn signal assembly is used or not. Although together they make a very nice package. Because the mounting pattern for the NRG quick release doesn't match the Factory Five parts, it's necessary to drill and tap the steering wheel boss to attach one side and the NRG piece to attach the steering wheel. Not hard to do. There are jigs being passed around although I did mine with careful measuring and a drill press. As Scott mentioned, there are multiple threads on the exact steps required.

[maclonchas]

Paul,

That helps a lot, but what I am having trouble visualizing this part is in this picture below :

177263

On the back of the steering wheel, there is an attached round plate. I am trying to see what piece that item is and cannot correlate with anything from the descriptions. I am sure it is obvious, but I am not seeing it.

Thanks

Bill

[edwardb]

Paul,

That helps a lot, but what I am having trouble visualizing this part is in this picture below :

177263

On the back of the steering wheel, there is an attached round plate. I am trying to see what piece that item is and cannot correlate with anything from the descriptions. I am sure it is obvious, but I am not seeing it.

Thanks

Bill

That's the half of the NRG piece I described in point #3 "the NRG piece to attach the steering wheel." Maybe not clear from the descriptions and pictures, I don't know. The NRG quick release has two pieces that twist and lock together. One on the steering wheel boss. One on the steering wheel. Push a button and twist to unlock, the two pieces separate, and the steering wheel is released. Twist again to lock the steering wheel back in place. Probably much easier to envision all this with the pieces in hand. But it's a straightforward and proven setup.

[maclonchas]

Paul,

Thanks. It was not you, but rather me not seeing that component easily. I found a video on YouTube Oak Hollow Garage (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4dY5SkZsQeQ) that cleared up the mystery and showed the components individually and apart.
Thanks for your help.
Bill

[maclonchas]

Today I finished how I’m going to install the seats. I wanted to get this done before starting the cockpit insulation while it’s easy to see everything. Plus I need to sort out my heated seat wiring before spraying on the insulation. My normal method is to bury the wires in the corner of the floor/trans tunnel on each side. My previous builds have all been the standard Roadster seats where the bottom cushion swings up exposing the seat frame for easy access. Plus I haven’t done sliders before. Only bolted directly to the cockpit floor. With the Corbeau seats I showed earlier, no option for either. With them in place, it became very obvious reaching under the seats to install mounting bolts would be challenging if not impossible. Especially for the rear bolts. I decided to mount them with 3/8"-16 button head alloy steel screws from the bottom into the cockpit with nuts fixed to the slider frame. After looking at several options, decided to use 3/8"-16 weld nuts from McMaster (where else?) located and riveted to the frame. These: https://www.mcmaster.com/#90955a123/=1e1xnql.

So the challenge was to establish the locations for the mounting bolts, taking into account the seat positions, slider frames, and acceptable mounting locations on the chassis. There is a seat pan welded into the chassis. But how to find the proper locations? After staring at it for a while (I do that…) decided to make cardboard patterns for each side that exactly indexed to the slider frame on three sides and extended 6-8 inches out the front. Then with the seats in the appropriate locations, marked the position of the patterns with tape. They were out in front of the seats and could be reached. Then took the seats out and used the patterns to determine the locations of each mounting bolt. As it turned out, I was able to get 3 of the 4 into the seat pan on each side. But one (the front inside on both sides) needed to go through a frame rail.

With the locations determined, drilled the cockpit floor, matching locations in the slider frame, installed the weld nuts onto the frames, and a little while ago fit everything together. Success! I’m very happy with how this turned out, and will be relatively easy to install and remove since all four bolts are accessible from under the car. The nuts move around slightly in the retainers, so makes getting them started a little less critical. Once in and tight, the seats are rock solid. Both seats will slide forward six inches or so. But not sure how often that will be required. Even for me (5’10”) the rear position on the driver’s seat is fine. Basically the same exact distance from the steering wheel and pedals as my Roadster. Side note: These seats work very well for me (discussed before) but for taller builders may not be the best choice. Different seats could locate another couple inches at least further back than these. Another side note: Found the passenger seat was most comfortable turned slightly to the outside. The passenger footbox is slightly offset to the right, and found the seating was more comfortable slightly favored to that side. Barely noticeable. But makes a difference. And yet another side note, the seat location, the location of the underlying seat pan, plus the seat type I selected, all work together to make an anti-sub belt not practical. I'm looking right now at Schroth Profi II ASM belts. Designed to be 4-point while still providing anti-submarine function. Nice but pricey to say the least. Trying to sell my kit provided Simpsons if anyone is interested.

With that, some pictures. This is the pattern attached to the passenger seat and the resulting index marks after determining the desired location. Same process for the drivers side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=90859&d=1533655510

These are the two patterns (made from Ram Board, mentioned in a previous update) in their desired locations. Marked the location of the seat frame, tracks, underlying seat pan and frame rails, etc. From that, determined the four mounting locations for each side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=90856&d=1533655481

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=90855&d=1533655473

Slider frames with the holes drilled in the frame and cockpit floor, and all eight weld nuts installed. First time checking the fit and everything aligned. Whew! I did throw a little rattle can black on the weld nuts before riveting them in place. Not visible, but plain steel.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=90854&d=1533655466

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=90853&d=1533655459

Seats installed now in their final locations.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=90857&d=1533655492

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=90858&d=1533655500

One of the interesting challenges of the Coupe is climbing in and out. Efforts to date have been a little clumsy, to say the least. Today I learned (and am relieved!) that having the seats bolted down makes a big difference. Passenger side is relatively easy. Driver’s side would be easier without the steering wheel (I can see why some guys go with a removable wheel) but I can manage OK. Obviously it will also make a difference with the body, the doors, etc. But way easier getting in and out with fixed seats versus when they were loose and sliding around.

Paul,
How much room did you have with your seat side bolsters? I cannot tell from your pictures. Looking at some other Corbeau seat options. Thanks Bill

[edwardb]

Paul,
How much room did you have with your seat side bolsters? I cannot tell from your pictures. Looking at some other Corbeau seat options. Thanks Bill

Here are a couple of pictures I just took. The seat back is about 1-1/2" away from the inside of the body. The base is right against the inside on both sides. Does this help?

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_3281.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_3281.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_3282.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_3282.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[maclonchas]

Got it and the pictures speak volumes of how tight that fit really is with that seat.

Thanks again.

Bill

[maclonchas]

Paul,
Do you have any idea of the steering column new cutout dimensions you made for the panel. The original CAD diagram shows a 1.5” + .89” radius for this cutout.

178091

Thanks for the help.

Bill

[edwardb]

Paul,
Do you have any idea of the steering column new cutout dimensions you made for the panel. The original CAD diagram shows a 1.5” + .89” radius for this cutout.

Thanks for the help.

Bill

No, I can't provide any dimensions. Didn't record any and now too buried for meaningful measurements. I can tell you what I did though. I made a cutout in the instrument cluster panel just big enough to clear the installed steering shaft. Then, with the dash assembled, slid the Russ Thompson turn signal assembly onto the shaft and marked the required cutout. Added a little for clearance plus the vinyl wrap. Made a clean and neat installation. This was the final cutout during the build.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88431&d=1530904513

[edwardb]

Inspired by preparation for taking the Coupe to the upcoming 2023 Detroit Autorama, plus other build threads, decided it was time to add some pontoon panels. Covers up the opening in the pontoons and the underlying connection of the headers to the side pipes. Plus adds a little bling. Not mandatory by any means. But something I decided to add. These things are never done, right? Including the build threads I guess. Russ Thompson sells panels for prior Coupe versions. Perhaps he also has them for the Gen 3. But didn’t ask because not particularly hard to fabricate.

Made them from .040” 6061 aluminum. Same as all the panels from the kit. First made patterns from thin cardboard. Both sides were slightly different. I cut rough sizes from a 24 x 24 inch piece of aluminum, leaving them at least an inch oversized all around at first. Dimples close to the edge will distort the sheet. I wanted them to be shiny but didn’t go crazy. Wet sanded the oversize pieces with 1000, 1500, and 2000 wet-dry paper. Then polished with my DA using a foam pad and machine polish. Doesn’t get all the mill finish scratches out. But not bad without a lot of effort. Then covered the polished side with 2” painters’ tape and didn’t remove until completely done. Worked well. I used a 1-1/2” dimple die set pulled through 1-1/2” holes. I don’t have a shop press (maybe someday…). Put the head of a large bolt in my bench vise and squeezed with an impact driver. For thin aluminum like this pretty easy and came out perfectly formed and sharp.

Then cut to size and after final fitting installed using chrome plated 10-32 Phillips oval head screws into nut plates on the underside held with JB Weld. The fiberglass is thick enough that self-tapping screws could work. But I’m just not a fan of those especially for something that could be repeatedly removed. Rivets are also an option and aren’t hard to drill out. But chose machine screws even though a bit more work up front. With everything done, pulled the protective tape and all was still shiny. Happy with the results. Now to put the final polish on the rest of the car for the big show Feb 24 – 26.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179943&d=1676371329

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=179944&d=1676371329

[GoDadGo]

They really clean up the pontoons while likely adding some stability.
.........Functional Eye Candy That Really Is A Nice Addition!

[Namrups]

Nice addition Paul!

[David Williamson]

I don't have your skill at fabrication so for my Gen 3 I got them from Russ T along with the sill plates.
David W

[Automan]

Hi Paul!!! Question on the front Wheel Wells.
Did you us the Wheel Wells that came with the update aluminum Panel kit.
The upper part that attaches to the cowl and mounts just above the hood props?
Keeps the mess from coming into the header side pipe area on the pontoons.

[edwardb]

Hi Paul!!! Question on the front Wheel Wells.
Did you us the Wheel Wells that came with the update aluminum Panel kit.
The upper part that attaches to the cowl and mounts just above the hood props?
Keeps the mess from coming into the header side pipe area on the pontoons.

Yes, I installed those parts. Agree it would be a mess without them.

[Chad M]

Paul - I got to see your coupe last week at London, its amazing. Didnt get a chance to say hi and thanks for all your posts as you had a line forming, haha. Anyway Im early in the planning for a coupe build and Id love to have a copy of your build sheet if its not too much trouble. Thanks for all you do here in the blogs.

[edwardb]

Paul - I got to see your coupe last week at London, its amazing. Didnt get a chance to say hi and thanks for all your posts as you had a line forming, haha. Anyway Im early in the planning for a coupe build and Id love to have a copy of your build sheet if its not too much trouble. Thanks for all you do here in the blogs.

Hi Chad. Sorry I missed you. But glad you made it to the show and got to see my Coupe along with 200+ of my closest friend's cars. :rolleyes: Not 100% sure what you mean by build sheet. Send me a PM with a further description and your email. You're welcome to whatever I have if it's what you're looking for but likely would have to be emailed.

[NotDrivingTrains]

Paul, let me also briefly express my gratitude for your contributions to this forum and for the second-to-none builds. Also, never thought I'd consider building something with wings, but now, good grief...

I've been reading a ton, so its been a challenge to keep it all straight. The consensus seems to be one can cut a few dB's with single pipes, but Georgie's/Gas-N pipes are +/- the best dual pipe option (and look great), and maybe a little quieter than FFR's. I am not looking for a reason to not use these side pipes, I definitely like the idea of supporting those who support this community. Just, if you were to do it over again, any changes?

I was also going to ask you for advice on an alternative to the Russ Thompson turn signal/NRG quick release, but did run across TJ's posts that he is looking to continue that great work.

Thanks again! - Aaron

[edwardb]

Paul, let me also briefly express my gratitude for your contributions to this forum and for the second-to-none builds. Also, never thought I'd consider building something with wings, but now, good grief...

I've been reading a ton, so its been a challenge to keep it all straight. The consensus seems to be one can cut a few dB's with single pipes, but Georgie's/Gas-N pipes are +/- the best dual pipe option (and look great), and maybe a little quieter than FFR's. I am not looking for a reason to not use these side pipes, I definitely like the idea of supporting those who support this community. Just, if you were to do it over again, any changes?

I was also going to ask you for advice on an alternative to the Russ Thompson turn signal/NRG quick release, but did run across TJ's posts that he is looking to continue that great work.

Thanks again! - Aaron

You're certainly welcome. I enjoy doing these build threads. The final product isn't too bad either. Some of the information is getting a little dated since it was finished 3+ years ago. So be cautious about that. The only side pipes Factory Five had available during my build were the plain steel ones. Mine were very poor workmanship plus they had a reputation for being super loud. So I never considered using them. When Georgie (Gas-N) offered me the chance to be the prototype user of his pipes, I jumped at the chance since I had always used his pipes on my Roadster builds and loved them. I wasn't disappointed. They really set off the car. Factory Five now has stainless steel Coupe pipes. I haven't used them or even seen them in person. So no way for me to offer any comparison. Bottom line I doubt whether you're going to be able to quiet the Coupe enough to not wear ear protection. Accept that and it's all good from there.

I wouldn't change anything substantial if I had to do it again. I would add more insulation between the frame and body below the doors. Also would change the sequence of body fitting that maybe would yield better door gaps then what I ended up with. Talked about both of these in my build thread. I did replace the rear hatch latch with something more substantial. This was talked about in another thread. Other than that, I just drive it and wouldn't change a thing.

Can't help you with the turn signal assembly. If I were in the build mode, I too would be watching for one of the alternatives being discussed.

[NotDrivingTrains]

Thank you for the feedback. I certainly try not to be driven by fear of some future regret, and doubtful to have any with what worked so well for your build(s). And I both realize it will be loud and still expect to be a little surprised, based on what I've read. At least I want to be able to tell my wife (and neighbors) I did what I reasonably could! I do expect to tinker with the signal and insulation. Not expecting DD, but can't imagine not wanting to drive it as much as possible... getting ahead of myself already. So great you enjoy yours so much a few years into it. Thanks again and take care.

[rhk118]

Paul - couple questions as I am planning my dash and where to fit everything behind it. I was studying some of the pictures I took of your car at the M1 Concourse show last year and see what looks like a rheostat and a button underneath the dash to the drivers side of your switch plate near the 12v USB outlet. I assume the button is for the wiper/washer system, and is the rheostat your dash lighting level?

Also if you know where you resourced your horn button I would appreciate it, if not no worries, I will find something similar (if you referenced it in your build I apologize if I missed it). It's nice, small, retro-looking, and doesn't stand out. I would like my dash to have simple switches and simple buttons that are consistent with each other and that button actually looks similar to the #7 coupe that was at the show. The more I think about my layout the more I appreciate the amount of thought and experience that went into yours with the little upgrades added here and there making it functional, but look very simple (under dash lighting being another example). I think that's a big part that makes the build fun. Thanks!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=189406&d=1693138899

[edwardb]

Paul - couple questions as I am planning my dash and where to fit everything behind it. I was studying some of the pictures I took of your car at the M1 Concourse show last year and see what looks like a rheostat and a button underneath the dash to the drivers side of your switch plate near the 12v USB outlet. I assume the button is for the wiper/washer system, and is the rheostat your dash lighting level?

Also if you know where you resourced your horn button I would appreciate it, if not no worries, I will find something similar (if you referenced it in your build I apologize if I missed it). It's nice, small, retro-looking, and doesn't stand out. I would like my dash to have simple switches and simple buttons that are consistent with each other and that button actually looks similar to the #7 coupe that was at the show. The more I think about my layout the more I appreciate the amount of thought and experience that went into yours with the little upgrades added here and there making it functional, but look very simple (under dash lighting being another example). I think that's a big part that makes the build fun. Thanks!


Thanks for the positive comments. Yes, a lot of thought went into how I did mine. For better or worse. Agree that’s one of the fun parts of these builds.

The momentary push button is for the Speedhut speedo. For calibration, resets the trip odometer, switches the display between screens, etc. My wiper/washer knob is on the center switch panel. Correct, the knob is for gauge light dimming. The horn button is a Lucas Electric part. I’m not home so can’t provide any more details right now. But hopefully that helps.

I’ve been following your build. Making good progress!

[John B.]

Paul:

I am new to the forum and am starting my build. I have studied your build and are forever grateful for your work and guidance. I live in Traverse City. Did you post plans for the hood rollers? I cannot seem to find them . . .

Thanks!

[edwardb]

Paul:

I am new to the forum and am starting my build. I have studied your build and are forever grateful for your work and guidance. I live in Traverse City. Did you post plans for the hood rollers? I cannot seem to find them . . .

Thanks!

Thanks. And hello to Traverse City from way down here in SE Michigan. :p I haven't posted any plans for the hood rollers. The post you found is all I've written. I do have a .pdf file that has tracings of the parts that several have asked for and should give you enough to duplicate. Send me your email in a PM and I'll email it to you. I can't attach the .pdf here on the forum.

[burchfieldb]

My build plan includes wipers and I’m going to do washers as well. Both are required by the Michigan safety inspection. I’ve gotten away without washers on the Roadster builds thanks to sympathetic LEO’s. But not going to try again, plus maybe with this build the wipers and washers might actually be usable and necessary. But I don’t want to work through the Lucas drama for wipers again, so looked for an alternative. Found reference to a company Specialty Power Windows located in Georgia on several other forums. Seemed all good. They sell various performance car power windows and wiper setups, including a universal wiper system WWK-2. Pretty old school. You actually have to call them to order. What??? Found that Speedway sells their products, was in stock, and with a few clicks here two days later. Looked it over today, put together enough to see how it works, and have a basic plan for installing. The overall design is similar to the Lucas variety with a moving cable going through wheelboxes. But it’s quite heavy duty and seems rock solid. Configuration, direction, and amount of sweep are all adjustable. Also in my digging around, found reference to a wiper/washer switch that does everything the usual DD does. Push for washer and several wipes, variable intermittent, high, low, and park. Cool! The one I bought is a Cole Hersee 75600-04. They sell a bunch of variations. After studying the switch schematic and the wiper setup, determined this was the right one. Clipped everything together temporarily, and it all works as it’s supposed to. The wiper kit doesn’t come with arms or blades. Need to figure that out. But even once those are added, what I’m going to install will still be cheaper than the usual Lucas knock-off and I think (hope) quite a bit better.

Had to chuckle a little bit. The literature says these wipers were the Best New Product of the Year at the 1991 NSRA nationals. My first reaction was these are maybe kind of an old design. Then on second thought realized that's 30 years or so newer than the Lucas style wipers. OK, that's progress. Here are some pics.

Inside of main mechanism. Orientation of the drive wheel determines direction. Different holes to adjust the amount of sweep. The wheel boxes come with a long driveshaft that can be shortened, which I probably will need to do. Everything gets packed with grease when assembled for good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82674&d=1521233774

Motor and the Cole Hersee switch. I’ll be changing out the knob to match the others on the dash. Drive cable is in the background.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82675&d=1521233782

Expect to mount somewhere in this vicinity. Plenty of room and should link up OK with the wheelboxes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82676&d=1521233792

I mentioned before about picking up the Breeze locking gas cap and installing into the LeMans cap. Got that done the other night. I’ve shown this including a full description in my other build threads, so won't repeat the details. Cut off the LeMans connection, hog out the flange for the regular cap, and bolt in. Not cheap, but an ideal setup IMO.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82679&d=1521233871

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82680&d=1521233883

Spent more time on the interior layout. Feel like I’m about there. There are some amazing interiors out there. I’m trying to stay within the basic boundaries of the stock layout though. I’m thinking of putting together a small center switch panel. The ends will be boxed in and have the aux outlets. Only switches on the dash itself will be the ignition, headlights and horn button over by the gauges. Probably going to go keyless push button start. Turn signals will be the Russ Thompson unit with headlight low/high/flash to pass on the stalk button. Four A/C-Heat outlets on the face of the dash, and I’d really like to install a glovebox. Probably can’t be real deep because of all the hoses behind the dash, but I’m going to try. I’ll have to do some fabrication on the DS to move things over a bit to fit the outlet on that side. Brow piece is still optional at this point. I’m planning to have the panel with the gauges removable which opens the dash area for access and servicing. Thinking of finishes of vinyl, C-F and some red stitching. Along the lines of how the seats are finished. Something similar for door cards as well. Again, very preliminary but it’s a start. What do you think? At this point changes are as easy as cutting more kraft paper and printing switch images.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82677&d=1521233821

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82678&d=1521233829

My first batch of powder coat pieces are promised for early next week. Also found out today Factory Five is sending out an update package for all Gen 3 Coupe buyers. There have been some sheet metal changes and maybe more. I’m really not sure. Some have gone out already. Mine is due in the next week or two. Good customer service Factory Five.

Hi Paul,
What wiper blades and arms did you end up using?

Thanks,
Brent

[edwardb]

Hi Paul,
What wiper blades and arms did you end up using?

Thanks,
Brent

When I completed in 2018 (it's really been that long... hard to believe) I used (2) ANCO Adjustable Wiper Arms 44-01 and (2) ANCO 52-Series Clear-Flex Wiper Blades 5215. I've shared that with several others at various times and heard that one or the other weren't available. Maybe that's changed, or maybe still the case. I did see that Scott (Namrups) much more recently used Wexco "J" type wiper arms from Amazon and 15" Anco wiper blades from Walmart. Hope that helps.

[burchfieldb]

When I completed in 2018 (it's really been that long... hard to believe) I used (2) ANCO Adjustable Wiper Arms 44-01 and (2) ANCO 52-Series Clear-Flex Wiper Blades 5215. I've shared that with several others at various times and heard that one or the other weren't available. Maybe that's changed, or maybe still the case. I did see that Scott (Namrups) much more recently used Wexco "J" type wiper arms from Amazon and 15" Anco wiper blades from Walmart. Hope that helps.

Yeah, time does fly. I am over a year into the build now and likley have anther before I am on the road. This helps, thanks for the quick reply. It looks like the arms are out of stock. I will look into the one Scott used.

[Namrups]

The 15" on the passengers side hung over too far so I replaced it with a 14". Would have liked a 13" better but couldn't find one.

[burchfieldb]

That is good to know Scott. It looks like Wexco makes an adjustable in that 13 inch range.
193945
193944

And it looks like the Autotex are the same and are a cheaper option.
193947
193946

It also looks like you can get them from Grainger, but the 14-18 inch is on backorder right now.

193948
193949

[Namrups]

Sorry, I was talking about the blade length not the arm length. If my memory is any good any more I believe I used the 11" arm length.

[CJK]

Hi Edward,

I’ve been reading your Coupe Build. It’s such a great resource, thank-you for your effort in putting it together!!

I’m building my Coupe now and I have a question about wheel spacers/adaptors. I’ve read about concerns with wheel separation. What is your experience with using them on your Coupe? Did you use hub-centric spacers or did you use hub rings to take up any difference between the hub and wheel diameter?

[edwardb]

Hi Edward,

I’ve been reading your Coupe Build. It’s such a great resource, thank-you for your effort in putting it together!!

I’m building my Coupe now and I have a question about wheel spacers/adaptors. I’ve read about concerns with wheel separation. What is your experience with using them on your Coupe? Did you use hub-centric spacers or did you use hub rings to take up any difference between the hub and wheel diameter?

Thank you. Appreciate the feedback. The build thread just keeps giving... I have had zero issues with the 1-inch wheel spacers on the rear wheels of the Coupe. Approaching 8,000 miles in three seasons. Also used them on my Truck build on all four corners. Also with zero issues. Based on other recommendations, I only use hub centric spacers made specifically for the hub size on each build. Pretty easy, they're Mustang dimensioned hubs and widely available. No hub rings nor would I recommend wheel spacers that require them. Same for spacers that only index on the lugs.

[edwardb]

That is good to know Scott. It looks like Wexco makes an adjustable in that 13 inch range.
193945
193944

And it looks like the Autotex are the same and are a cheaper option.
193947
193946

It also looks like you can get them from Grainger, but the 14-18 inch is on backorder right now.

193948
193949


Sorry, I was talking about the blade length not the arm length. If my memory is any good any more I believe I used the 11" arm length.


The 15" on the passengers side hung over too far so I replaced it with a 14". Would have liked a 13" better but couldn't find one.

FWIW, just measured the installation on my Coupe. The Anco adjustable arms I used are set at 10.5 inches. I have 15 inch blades on each side. Yes, the passenger side blade does park right at the corner of the windshield and slightly onto the windshield trim rubber I installed. This can be minimized by adjusting where they park. But this size blade also gives the most wiping surface on the windshield. So there's the trade-off. Fortunately, mine have only been on in real use twice in three seasons, and each time only briefly. (Probably shouldn't say that out loud. :p). But I'm also a wimp and intentionally don't drive it when the forecast is for rain. And yes, for out of town events, it rides in my Serpent Express. But call my Coupe a trailer queen only if you expect a serious glare.

[burchfieldb]

FWIW, just measured the installation on my Coupe. The Anco adjustable arms I used are set at 10.5 inches. I have 15 inch blades on each side. Yes, the passenger side blade does park right at the corner of the windshield and slightly onto the windshield trim rubber I installed. This can be minimized by adjusting where they park. But this size blade also gives the most wiping surface on the windshield. So there's the trade-off. Fortunately, mine have only been on in real use twice in three seasons, and each time only briefly. (Probably shouldn't say that out loud. :p). But I'm also a wimp and intentionally don't drive it when the forecast is for rain. And yes, for out of town events, it rides in my Serpent Express. But call my Coupe a trailer queen only if you expect a serious glare.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the follow up, very helpful.

[Scott e]

Thanks for the good pics and info. The only reason I was going to use only a single wiper is, I may have painted myself into a corner. I mounted my fuse block on the firewall and was concerned about the bar going across to the driver side wiper being in the way. But I see by your pics that the motor gets mounted to the right of where I mounted the fuse block. It also looks like the bar does not run to close to the firewall. My fuse block protrudes 1.5" from firewall. Will the bar clear? I wasn't thinking about wipers when mounting fuse block. My mistake. If bar not an issue, I will "CALL" them and order. Thanks a bunch.

[edwardb]

Thanks for the good pics and info. The only reason I was going to use only a single wiper is, I may have painted myself into a corner. I mounted my fuse block on the firewall and was concerned about the bar going across to the driver side wiper being in the way. But I see by your pics that the motor gets mounted to the right of where I mounted the fuse block. It also looks like the bar does not run to close to the firewall. My fuse block protrudes 1.5" from firewall. Will the bar clear? I wasn't thinking about wipers when mounting fuse block. My mistake. If bar not an issue, I will "CALL" them and order. Thanks a bunch.

Neither the typical Lucas knock-off wipers or the Specialty Power Windows model use a bar. They both use a flexible spring-like cable inside a tube that you can bend however necessary. Within certain limits. The cable is long enough that you can mount the motor elsewhere if necessary.

[JimStone]

If bar not an issue, I will "CALL" them and order. Thanks a bunch.

No need to call. Speedway sells them. Free shipping.

Specialty Power Windows WWK-2 Standard Universal Wiper Drive Kit

[mtdr]

Hi Edward B,
I am building a gen 3 coupe. I have studied your beautiful build for quite a while now. Congradulations!
If you have time would you mind contacting me. I am having a difficult time installing the Corbeau seats (fixed back, no heat). I cannot fit the seat between the seat belt tie downs therefore can not move it back as far as you have shown in your blog. These are the same model and p/n you used.

Thanks, Tim

[edwardb]

Hi Edward B,
I am building a gen 3 coupe. I have studied your beautiful build for quite a while now. Congradulations!
If you have time would you mind contacting me. I am having a difficult time installing the Corbeau seats (fixed back, no heat). I cannot fit the seat between the seat belt tie downs therefore can not move it back as far as you have shown in your blog. These are the same model and p/n you used.

Thanks, Tim

Thanks. The Coupe is patiently waiting out the Michigan winter. Can't wait for spring to get it back out. :rolleyes: My Corbeau Sportline Evolution-X 64901F seats were purchased in 2018 directly from Corbeau USA. So coming up to six years ago. Scott Pregont (Namrups) used the same seats in his Coupe build several years later. He reported a similar situation, e.g. didn't fit between the seat belt attachment brackets. After some discussion back and forth, we figured Corbeau must have made changes to the seats and as I recall also the bases (sliders) I used. He figured out something to make everything work, although I don't know the details. I would suggest taking a look at his build thread (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?41418-The-race-is-on-Namrups-65-Daytona-Coupe-build) and reach out to him as needed. I would be happy to help if I could. But I don't know what that would be. Good luck with your build and hope you can work this out.

[Namrups]

Paul is correct. Both the seat and the sliders are a little different. The width of the seats is wider and the height of the sliders is higher making it impossable to fit the seat between the seatbelt tabs and because the slider is taller the top of the seat rubs the roll bars. My solution was to purchase MK4 seat mounts from Breeze and modified them and the sliders. It allowed me to use the slider portion and also tilted the seat back by raising the front of the seat ~ 2 inches. It lowers the top of the seat away from the rollbars and even though it still doesnt fit between the tabs by being tilted it allows for most of the seat to sit back further. IMO it is more comfortable in this position to. My aluminum panels were already installed when I noticed this difference. I might have concidered moving the tabs if they were not. Hope this helps.

[Fat Larrys Garage]

Ed finally got my permission to post now so all good

[Fat Larrys Garage]

Ed how do you like the KRC power steering setup and would you happen to know the model of the AC Compressor that came in your kit from Factory Five I have a brand new unit from Vintage Air just thought maybe I would ge lucky

[edwardb]

Ed how do you like the KRC power steering setup and would you happen to know the model of the AC Compressor that came in your kit from Factory Five I have a brand new unit from Vintage Air just thought maybe I would ge lucky

As I recall, your build is with a Coyote, right? Like this Coupe build. The compressor from Factory Five was a Ford part number CR33-19497-BA. Brand: Zexel. Type: DKS-17DS. Listed for 05-14 Mustang 5.0 V8. Again, that was almost six years ago. So could vary from what they supply now. But the main point is that it's a Ford OE compressor for a Mustang. Bolts directly into the A/C compressor location on the Coyote. Might not be the case with the more generic Sandens that Vintage Air typically provides. I've used KRC power steering setups on several builds. Including the two Coyote builds. Very high quality and directly bolt to the Coyote and don't interfere with the A/C compressor location like some other options. Ford doesn't have an OE solution for engine driven hydraulic power steering. Their models all use electric powered racks.

- Paul B.

[Fat Larrys Garage]

Ed thank you your making it easy for me so thank you

[TheBabyBadger]

He's still going!!!!

[Fat Larrys Garage]

Paul I believe you mentioned in one of your post that the front hinge mount was hitting the aluminum radiator shroud am I remembering that correctly

[edwardb]

Paul I believe you mentioned in one of your post that the front hinge mount was hitting the aluminum radiator shroud am I remembering that correctly

The hood hinges hit the aluminum side pieces in the radiator tunnel as I recall. Not the radiator fan shroud if that's what you meant. That's not a kit part. The overall hood setup, with the hinges having the wrong angle (some re-weld, I added a wedge), the interference already mentioned, and the fit of the A/C condenser (I used a different one) all was pretty disappointing to be honest. Definitely the most underdeveloped part of the kit. Again, 6+ years ago. I would hope with continuous improvement and the number of Coupes that have been sold since then these issues have been addressed. But I don't know. All you can do is mock everything up and address whatever issues you have. A standard practice for me on the entire build actually.

[Namrups]

My coupe was delivered in June of 2022 and had the same issues.

[burchfieldb]

FWIW, just measured the installation on my Coupe. The Anco adjustable arms I used are set at 10.5 inches. I have 15 inch blades on each side. Yes, the passenger side blade does park right at the corner of the windshield and slightly onto the windshield trim rubber I installed. This can be minimized by adjusting where they park. But this size blade also gives the most wiping surface on the windshield. So there's the trade-off. Fortunately, mine have only been on in real use twice in three seasons, and each time only briefly. (Probably shouldn't say that out loud. :p). But I'm also a wimp and intentionally don't drive it when the forecast is for rain. And yes, for out of town events, it rides in my Serpent Express. But call my Coupe a trailer queen only if you expect a serious glare.
Paul,
Do your wipers have the swivel head?

Thanks,
Brent

[edwardb]

Paul,
Do your wipers have the swivel head?

Thanks,
Brent

Yes.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_4264.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/IMG_4264.jpg?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[edwardb]

60 degrees and no coat outside in February in Michigan? Yup, that's what we have today. Lots of salt on the roads so no driving. But decided it's time to get around to my usual winterizing. I put the Coupe up on the Race Ramp FlatStoppers in early November and haven't touched it since. I usually do the oil change and annual maintenance at the end of the driving season. But got lazy this year plus kind of focused on my other project. Ran out of excuses today. So up on the lift and changed the oil and filter. Initial look over doesn't show any issues, but I'll dive deeper tomorrow. I only drove just under 1,100 mile last season. Less than usual. Busy plus split driving time with the 35 Truck. Total mileage on the Coupe is 6,339 and about to start it's fourth full season already. The Gen 3 Coyote started almost immediately after sitting for 3 months. Have to love that. Snapped this picture while up on the lift letting the barely used oil out. But I'm honoring the Ford recommendation of one year regardless of miles. Fuselage pieces of my airplane project in the foreground. Finished wings, finished empannage, and a bunch of parts in the basement. Right now a little stalled waiting for backordered parts. Sound familiar?

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=195499&d=1707516953

[Fat Larrys Garage]

Paul I thought the Daytona was fast enough I see you want to come off the ground I assume home built airplane pretty cool

[Fat Larrys Garage]

Paul do you have any issues with your brakes on the Daytona it appears your brake lines are above the master cylinders I really don’t think it matters since it’s a pressurized system

[edwardb]

Paul do you have any issues with your brakes on the Daytona it appears your brake lines are above the master cylinders I really don’t think it matters since it’s a pressurized system

Absolutely none. They work great. At 750-800 PSI and up, gravity loses. :p

Just in case you meant the supply lines from the reservoir, those are fed by gravity. No issues there either.

[Fat Larrys Garage]

Yeah that’s what I thought thanks for the reply I have my setup similar to yours

[Alan_C]

Paul: I have been reading your thread more and more. I think I am going to pull the trigger on the coupe base kit in the fall and buy my 363 short block this summer. As much as I like the Coyote, a 363 with stacks is a must for me on this build. I even love the color you put on your car as House of Kolor has some awesome reds like their apple red semi-candy Shimirin II color. I am not a "BLUE" person, so like you, I have to do something a bit different. Being on opposite sides of the country, not likely both of our cars would show up at the same venue.
If there is ANYTHING you would do different, please post or PM me. I can't imagine you ran into much that you wouldn't do again, but there are probably a couple of items.

Thanks, Alan

[edwardb]

Paul: I have been reading your thread more and more. I think I am going to pull the trigger on the coupe base kit in the fall and buy my 363 short block this summer. As much as I like the Coyote, a 363 with stacks is a must for me on this build. I even love the color you put on your car as House of Kolor has some awesome reds like there apple red semi-candy Shimirin II color. I am not a "BLUE" person, so like you, I have to do something a bit different. Being on opposite sides of the country, not likely both of our cars would show up at the same venue.
If there is ANYTHING you would do different, please post or PM me. I can't imagine you ran into much that you wouldn't do again, but there are probably a couple of items.

Thanks, Alan

Hey Alan. So another commission check will be in the mail? Cool :cool: You'll love the Coupe. We sure do ours. I think I've mentioned that a few times. There's very little I would change. I'm a big Coyote fan, so wouldn't change that. But I understand where you're coming from. I would definitely add more insulation along the sides below the doors, as I mentioned in the thread a couple times. I added some after the build was done. Maybe helped a little. But have to think something more effective could be done while it was still open during the build. I'd probably leave the trim off the windshield. Talked about that too. I had to change out a broken windshield and that trim made the process way harder than it needed to be. The supplied windshield would be fine without the trim. Although polishing the edge (it's not) would improve the look. The only other thing I can think of is I'm kind of on the bubble with the Digital Guard Dawg pushbutton start. It's a cool feature I guess, but it's the single piece of the build that I had to repair/replace. And in general it's a little fiddly to use. Very sequence oriented and if you lose your place, can be a little frustrating. I'm pretty used to it. But would think a bit before using one again. Those are all pretty minor. I'd do everything else exactly the same without hesitation. Good luck.

[MC Builders]

Paul,
Could you tell me what the panels is to the left of the firewall extension, the one that has a similar shape as the dash panel? It looks foreign to me but it may be a customer piece that you made.
Thank you,
Mike

[edwardb]

Paul,
Could you tell me what the panels is to the left of the firewall extension, the one that has a similar shape as the dash panel? It looks foreign to me but it may be a customer piece that you made.
Thank you,
Mike

Hi Mike. Can you post a picture or point to a post that shows what you're describing? I don't recall fabricating any parts in the area you described. Looked through my pictures to confirm. I did modify how the parts on the dash attach, e.g. made all the fasteners hidden. But used kit parts.

[Fat Larrys Garage]

Paul on your interior is that carpet from FFR or your interior shop

[edwardb]

Paul on your interior is that carpet from FFR or your interior shop

Yes, the standard kit supplied Coupe carpet kit. I've used it on all my builds. Sometimes doesn't get a lot of love, but I've found it works fine. I always use floor mats and a pad by the accelerator. Will wear in the those areas but everywhere else seems to hold up fine. I tried a recommended alternative (Bentley) for one of my builds. But ended up putting it in the trunk as still used the kit carpet.

[Lougarvin]

Hola Paul,

I'm not good at these posts and maybe I shouldn't have put this post here but thought it might be close.



I've completed my Daytona. My builder said it was easy. All I had to do was follow edwardb's posts and it all came out fine.



Now I am fine tuning the setup for the track. I just did my first day with a professional driver in the left seat. He is a brave man to take out an unknown quantity and try and make it work on a race track, ECR (Eagles Canyon Raceway ten miles away).



My car had terrible oversteer. I have installed the FFR front and rear sway bars. My drive buddy says we need to loosen up the back and tighten up the front. After our session we put the car on the lift and tried to move the rear sway bar back a couple notches but the supplied rod ends don't appear to be adjustable to reach. The front sway bar presently also does not appear to be vertical and the rod ends are also slanted a bit. The spacer appears to be too big.



I know you don't track your car but your familiarity with all things Daytona I thought you might give me some direction on who to ask for set up issues with the sway bars.



I did get a trophy in the car show at SVRA weekend at ECR thanks to your input.



Best,



Lou Garvin

[edwardb]

Hola Paul,

I'm not good at these posts and maybe I shouldn't have put this post here but thought it might be close.

I've completed my Daytona. My builder said it was easy. All I had to do was follow edwardb's posts and it all came out fine.

Now I am fine tuning the setup for the track. I just did my first day with a professional driver in the left seat. He is a brave man to take out an unknown quantity and try and make it work on a race track, ECR (Eagles Canyon Raceway ten miles away).

My car had terrible oversteer. I have installed the FFR front and rear sway bars. My drive buddy says we need to loosen up the back and tighten up the front. After our session we put the car on the lift and tried to move the rear sway bar back a couple notches but the supplied rod ends don't appear to be adjustable to reach. The front sway bar presently also does not appear to be vertical and the rod ends are also slanted a bit. The spacer appears to be too big.

I know you don't track your car but your familiarity with all things Daytona I thought you might give me some direction on who to ask for set up issues with the sway bars.

I did get a trophy in the car show at SVRA weekend at ECR thanks to your input.

Best,

Lou Garvin

Hello Lou. Congrats on your completed Coupe and award. Glad my build thread may have been of some use. You're right, I don't track my Coupe. Only on the street and the standard Factory Five sway bar setup isn't limiting me at all. (Or at least if it is, I don't know it. :p) I can't give you any specific recommendations. I'd suggest you make a new post describing your situation. There are others on here with track experience and I'm sure could offer some advice. Good luck.

[Rsnake]

Lots of Autocross and track days between Dave and myself and we will both tell you to ditch the rear bar.

[Fat Larrys Garage]

Paul good morning I am looking into rims for the car more than likely going with Forgstar F14 I have been looking to do 18 inch front and 19 inch rear I see that you went 18 inch all the way around and your car sits nice does the 18 fill the rear wheel well and I believe you also used wheel spacers on the rear any reason for the spacers you you just wanted to push the wheel to the outside to look better

[edwardb]

Paul good morning I am looking into rims for the car more than likely going with Forgstar F14 I have been looking to do 18 inch front and 19 inch rear I see that you went 18 inch all the way around and your car sits nice does the 18 fill the rear wheel well and I believe you also used wheel spacers on the rear any reason for the spacers you you just wanted to push the wheel to the outside to look better

I have Factory Five rims. They don't offer 19's. So yes, 18's all around. The rear spacers are to push the wheels out into the openings for better appearance as you describe. The Coupe uses the same rear suspension setup(s) as the Roadster but the body is wider.

[Fat Larrys Garage]

Paul do you remember if you got the oil filter new threaded adapter piece once you remove the oil cooler piece

[edwardb]

Paul do you remember if you got the oil filter new threaded adapter piece once you remove the oil cooler piece

When you remove the oil cooler, the long adapter must be replaced with a Ford AL3Z-6890-A Oil filter adapter (short). Got mine from Tasca Parts. But available from multiple sources.

https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-adapter-insert-al3z6890a

[Fat Larrys Garage]

Thanks Paul your an ace

[Lougarvin]

Hello Paul,

Many thanks for your response and suggestion to figure out these sway bars and how to adjust them. It's a work in progress and I'm taking my time.

Best regards,

Lou

[Alan_C]

Hey Paul, got another question for you. I have been reading a thread where a Gen 3 Coupe owner is struggling with oversteer on his car newly finished car at the track. He is running both front and rear sway bars and struggling to come up with a configuration that is not tail happy. What did you do on you build, no bars, front only, or both? I checked the options box for both front and rear sway bars with the rear being the 2015 and up IRS. I have time to finalize my kit order, but it would sure be nice to eliminate the rear bar, or both, if they are truly unnecessary on a high performance street car.
As always, thanks in advance.
Alan

[edwardb]

Hey Paul, got another question for you. I have been reading a thread where a Gen 3 Coupe owner is struggling with oversteer on his car newly finished car at the track. He is running both front and rear sway bars and struggling to come up with a configuration that is not tail happy. What did you do on you build, no bars, front only, or both? I checked the options box for both front and rear sway bars with the rear being the 2015 and up IRS. I have time to finalize my kit order, but it would sure be nice to eliminate the rear bar, or both, if they are truly unnecessary on a high performance street car.
As always, thanks in advance.
Alan

My Coupe has the Factory Five bars on both front and back. For my driving, 100% street, I can't say I've noticed anything positive or negative about them. The car handles great and I wouldn't change a thing. But I'm a relatively conservative driver and zero track experience. So take that for what it's worth. One comment, and maybe you know this, but the front bars can be mounted after the fact. Easy. The rear requires two brackets that are bolted in as you build up the suspension. Even if you don't install the rear bar initially, you may want to get those brackets and install during the build. Saves taking things apart later.

[Fat Larrys Garage]

Paul getting ready to start wiring the car any advice since you been thru it already do’s and don’t I always like to ask so I don’t make the same mistake seems pretty straight forward and after doing almost 15 different cars this one maybe the easiest

[edwardb]

Paul getting ready to start wiring the car any advice since you been thru it already do’s and don’t I always like to ask so I don’t make the same mistake seems pretty straight forward and after doing almost 15 different cars this one maybe the easiest

There's no one way to wire these cars. Everyone tends to put their on spin on it. I start each build with an electrical plan identifying the power requirements, fuse/breaker requirements (for circuits outside the Ron Francis harness), wire sizes, etc. I typically mock up the location of all the components first. In this case, including the Coyote specific components as well. Then start laying in the wiring. Because space was so limited behind the dash because of the A/C and the glove box, I significantly dieted the Ron Francis harness, e.g. shortened wires, removed connectors, etc. That's not for everyone though. If in doubt, leave it stock. I also try to think about future maintenance if required. I specifically wired and mounted the gauge cluster so that it could be removed. Which also provides access behind the dash and the components mounted on the tunnel. That's all I can think of at the moment. Lots more words and pictures earlier in this build thread of the wiring.

[Fat Larrys Garage]

Thanks Paul I will just get into it and see how it flows

[Fat Larrys Garage]

Paul when you replaced the Gen 3 Coyote oil pan did you purchase a new oil pan pickup it looks like you tried to make a pickup yourself I assume maybe they have a new pickup for the Morosso oil pan by now

[edwardb]

Paul when you replaced the Gen 3 Coyote oil pan did you purchase a new oil pan pickup it looks like you tried to make a pickup yourself I assume maybe they have a new pickup for the Morosso oil pan by now

I was very early in the Gen 3 Coyote timeline. Moroso didn't have a pickup for the Gen 3 so I had to make one. A couple failed attempts as described in the build thread. Then success. Much later Moroso did release a Gen 3 version. The Moroso pan used with the Coyote in these builds is their standard offering part #20570. You'll also need: Part #24577 oil pickup for the Gen 3, part #22738 low warning sensor plug since we don't typically use that sensor with the crate motor, and a BR3Z-6710-A oil pan gasket/windage tray since the Gen 3 has a composite oil pan with integrated gasket/windage tray.

Note these same part numbers are listed in the Factory Five Gen 3 Coyote installation instructions at: https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/Coyote-Gen-3-Fitment-roadster-rev-1i.pdf.

[Fat Larrys Garage]

Paul good morning wondering what color you picked for your car I was thinking of Brandywine Cherry over black for mine of all my builds I don’t think I ever had a red series car, also the factory five window setup is it good enough to hold some of the AC in the car or does it leak alot

[edwardb]

Paul good morning wondering what color you picked for your car I was thinking of Brandywine Cherry over black for mine of all my builds I don’t think I ever had a red series car, also the factory five window setup is it good enough to hold some of the AC in the car or does it leak alot

Paint color is mentioned a couple times in the build thread including here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-5-000-Mile-Report&p=391649&viewfull=1#post391649

The Factory Five window kit seals OK around the perimeter if you take the time with gaskets. The sliding windows aren't wind or water proof. But they are adequate. I don't hear anything from them over the rest of the sound in the car. They definitely help to keep the A/C (and heat) inside. I've only driven the car without them once and don't plan to do that again.

[Fat Larrys Garage]

Paul good morning since you seem to be the man with all answers I posted a question yesterday about the clutch safety switch I have two identical switches and brackets that came with the kit I would assume one is for the brakes and the other for the clutch depending on where you attach the wires just let me know your thoughts the reason I ask is the switch doesn’t look like the one you used.

[edwardb]

Paul good morning since you seem to be the man with all answers I posted a question yesterday about the clutch safety switch I have two identical switches and brackets that came with the kit I would assume one is for the brakes and the other for the clutch depending on where you attach the wires just let me know your thoughts the reason I ask is the switch doesn’t look like the one you used.

The kit comes with similar mounting brackets and switches for the brake lights and clutch safety. For a Coyote build with the Ford Performance control pack, which I think you're installing (??), you don't use the kit provided clutch safety switch. The Ford Performance control pack includes a different switch and a leg on the harness for it. If you have the Factory Five Coyote installation kit, it comes with mounting brackets for the Ford switch in the Wilwood pedal box. There are differences if you have a clutch cable or hydraulic clutch. But you use the Ford switch and not the kit clutch switch in either case. Both the Ford Performance and Factory Five Coyote installation instructions show the different clutch switch.

BTW, feel free to send me PM's with questions. I get plenty of them and happy to answer without adding to my build thread.

[Dmac800]

Hi Paul,
Do you think that there is enough room in the engine compartment to fit the new Gen 4 with the dual air intake? I hope to order a Type 65 in the next week and want to put in the new Gen 4 Aluminator if I can. I know that the have the Gen 4X that will work. What are your thoughts?

Don M

[edwardb]

Hi Paul,
Do you think that there is enough room in the engine compartment to fit the new Gen 4 with the dual air intake? I hope to order a Type 65 in the next week and want to put in the new Gen 4 Aluminator if I can. I know that the have the Gen 4X that will work. What are your thoughts?

Don M

To be honest, I don't know. I've only seen pictures of the dual intake MK4 and haven't thought about whether it would fit or not. I suspect the answer is something like anything is possible given skill and money. If Erik Treves can put twin turbos in his Coyote powered Coupe, anything is possible. All depends on your plans for the car and how you'll use it. The single intake Gen 4 announced by Ford Performance has very similar specs to the Gen 3 I have in my Coupe. Which has all the performance I want (or need). Ask the folks I gave charity rides to at LCS. If I were building one today, that's what I would do.

[Fat Larrys Garage]

Paul did you receive the 02 sensor computer harness in with your original order I don’t see it in mine and I purchased the Coyote build package along with my main kit

[edwardb]

Paul did you receive the 02 sensor computer harness in with your original order I don’t see it in mine and I purchased the Coyote build package along with my main kit

The FFR Coyote completion kit only includes mechanical type parts. The O2 sensor harness is part of the Ford Performance control pack. If that's what you're using.

[Alan_C]

The HP difference with the dual intake is not significant enough to justify the time spent making it, or not, fit. Consider your headers, exhaust, and selection of air filter will also have a positive affect on the HP produced. I would concentrate there and just buy the single intake crate motor.

[edwardb]

Our club (Great Lakes Cobra Club) had a simplified version of a road rally this past weekend (great fun) and during the run the Coupe turned 7,000 miles. It's been a rainy year so far here in SE Michigan and has caused several events to get cancelled. But Saturday was bright and sunny. Warm, but that's what the A/C is for. Everything about the Coupe continues to be perfect. Gen 3 Coyote just starts and runs. Zero codes since its custom tune after installation. We were at the London Cobra Show a few weeks ago and as usual a great event. I did some charity rides and pushed the Coupe as hard as I ever have. Pretty crazy what it's capable of. This is officially its fifth season (hard to believe) although the first season it mostly stayed in the garage because of COVID and our statewide shutdown. When polished up, still looks brand new and I'm constantly accused of not driving it. Have I mentioned how much we like this car?

Note: I tried to change the title since it says 5,000 mile report. But it won't let me. Not sure why. Maybe because of the age of this thread. Oh well...

[Namrups]

The cobra group I'm associated with also had a "Fun Run" thru the Adrondack mountainss this past weekend. (300 miles) In it's second year my coupe turned 5000 miles during the run. I fully agree with Paul, this car is fantastic!

[Jphoenix]

Hi Paul, just a note to thank you for this thread, I noted your very early comment regarding the kit upper ball joints and your recommendation to use the Howe Racing 22320S upper ball joints. So, I ordered the Howe parts (including the boots, tie-rod ends and other bits you suggested) and as expected, Summit had them to me within 48 hours. When the Coupe kit arrived today, I discovered exactly the same situation - the kit UBJ's are an interference fit for some reason and the Howe parts screw right in.

So, thanks again for posting all your findings, same for Erik and Michael, lots of great info here!

Jim

[Fat Larrys Garage]

Paul on the AC Compressor the wiring connector I assume one wire is power the other ground do you remember which wire off the connector is ground

[edwardb]

Paul on the AC Compressor the wiring connector I assume one wire is power the other ground do you remember which wire off the connector is ground

Sorry, no, I don't remember colors. Yes, one side is power and the other ground. Based on the picture I have, one lead was green and the other black. Good chance they followed standard convention and the black wire is ground. In my thread, I mention powering the two leads to confirm the clutch was working. Have to assume I put the power on green and ground on black. In looking through the build thread, refreshed my memory that I added a connector to those leads vs. the FF instructions to hard wire. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-5-000-Mile-Report&p=350347&viewfull=1#post350347.

[nelsond003]

One of the remaining tasks for my seemingly never-ending body fit-up was to get the cowl and pontoons lined up the way I wanted them. Seems like a pretty simple thing, but was a little more complicated once I dug into it. There were two issues, both that I’ve mentioned before. First, I had an alignment issue between the bottom of the cowl and top of the pontoon on the right side. OK at the back, but to a hard interference fit at the front behind the wheel. No amount of juggling the body or the cowl eliminated the problem without creating other issues. I could pull the pontoon down a little and anchor to the splash guard. But not nearly enough. So I’ve left it to now to resolve. Second, I found that the gas shocks push the cowl out of alignment when it’s closed. Without anything holding it, moves the entire cowl forward 3/16 to 1/4-inch when you close it. Kind of a big deal, and not good if you want everything to line up nicely and position consistently. Some have solved the problem by removing the gas shocks and using a prop rod arrangement instead. That’s a good solution, but I wanted to stay with the gas shocks if possible

Part of the solution for both issues is alignment pins for the front of the pontoons. The kit provided some receptacle pieces for one side. But the pins provided were much smaller than the 3/8-inch holes in the receptacles. Plus, they were plain pins with no obvious way to mount. Talking to other builders, seems I was probably provided the wrong size pins, as 3/8-inch ones are apparently available. But rather than pursue that, fabricated my own pins and mounts. One of the challenges here is the pins not only need to do the alignment task, but IMO need to be robust enough to catch and hold the cowl against the forward push of the gas struts.

First up though was to fix the alignment issue between the cowl and the pontoon. After a lot of consideration, decided a little glass work was my only option. I cut through the glass at the top corner of the pontoon about 18-inches back from the front corner. Then made another tapered cut starting about 1/4-inch wide at the front down to zero at approximately 18-inches. Then, using the closed cowl and paint stick pieces as spacers, glued the edge back down with HSRF to provide the needed clearance. When that set up, put a healthy filet of HSRF on the inside of the corner where I cut. Then added two layers of 8-ounce glass on the inside with vinyl ester resin. Turned out pretty well with just a little bit of additional HSRF filler. Now I had the clearance and alignment I needed.

Next I made the alignment pins and mounts out of 1/4-inch flat steel stock and cut down 3/8-inch SS bolts. Tapped the hole in the mount for the 3/8 x 16 threaded portion of the pin and used a jam nut on the bottom. Looked like this before installing. The bottom piece is the receptacle provided in the kit. Had to trim one edge slightly to fit where I wanted it. Note this is an early picture. I had to make new longer pins. Slight miscalculation. :(

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106658&d=1556919039

Won’t go through all the steps, but got the cowl and pontoons positioned where I wanted them and clamped everything down. Then attached the pontoons to the lower splash guards. Then located the holes for the alignment pins and receptacles. I bonded the pieces in with HSRF, and don’t plan to have anything removable except the pin itself. Since there wasn’t a lot of surface area on the receptacles to bond to, I added a couple 8-32 bolts in each.

Left side pin mounted to the steel plate bonded underneath in the front corner of the pontoon.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106659&d=1556919047

Mating receptacle mounted on the inside of the cowl. Ditto everything for the right side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106660&d=1556919054

I’m pleasantly surprised how this turned out. Between the gas struts, the rollers shown in the last update, and now the mostly self-guiding alignment pins, the cowl easily drops down into place and latches in exactly the same place every time. The alignment pins easily manage the push from the struts. There will be some minor body work, but generally the gaps and panel alignment turned out really well. Hopefully my body/paint guy will appreciate all the work here! I did have to sand the profile some where the cowl and pontoons meet at the rear of the front wheel wells. With that, the wheel well outlines match reasonably well. That was one of the areas I was focused on. I’ve noticed on some Coupes that area doesn't align very well. Couple of quick side views. You can see the repair I made on the right side.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106661&d=1556919060

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106662&d=1556919068

Now that I have this part done, I can do some final tweaking on the cowl to body gap and that’s it. Only remaining fiberglass work is to get the rear spoiler fitted and I’m going to cut in a third brake light. I’ll be glad to move on from this part of the build.


I know you fabed your own, but what pontoon alignment kit did you get to start?

[edwardb]

I know you fabed your own, but what pontoon alignment kit did you get to start?

As I recall, my kit came with the cup piece pictured in the above quote, but a much smaller pin (maybe 1/4"?) and no support mechanism other than (apparently) bonding it into the fiberglass. I drilled out the cup for a larger pin made from a 3/8" SS bolt and fabricated the block pictured. It's robust and has held up well to the hundreds of time opening and closing the hood over the past four years of driving. The stock setup might have been fine too. But just struck me as a little fragile.

[Fat Larrys Garage]

Paul good afternoon did you do the edge bonding on your carpets yourself if so what did you Ed up using or maybe your just to it to an interior shop and had then do it

[edwardb]

Paul good afternoon did you do the edge bonding on your carpets yourself if so what did you Ed up using or maybe your just to it to an interior shop and had then do it

The carpet edging was done at a local interior shop. It's a standard cloth binding sewn in place. Easy to do with the right sewing machine and not too expensive.

[PNWTim]

After this picture was taken, made my first attempt at installing the fuse panel and the accompanying harness branches. Pretty much confirmed what I suspected. I’m going to need to unwrap a lot of the main harness and adjust some lengths and breakouts of some of the branches. Partly to make it neater plus maximize space since I will also have air ducting behind the dash. But also just to make things reach. I’m already a little concerned about the front harness. But I’m not going to tear into that any further because the other variable here is the Coyote harness. It also has to fit into the same space. I’ll wait until that’s on hand and put all the puzzle pieces together then.

I also spent some time on the rear harness. That I was confident enough about that I unwrapped it, made some changes, and wrapped it back up again. I’m going to install a single backup light under the rear running lights on the left side. So added wires to/from the area of the backup light switch on the T-56 I’m planning. Also with the T-56, it has a reverse lock-out solenoid. Lots of discussions about this on various forums. My plan is to use it exactly as designed with a module (there are several available) that senses speed and locks out reverse when the vehicle is in motion. So added wires to/from the area of the reverse lockout solenoid on the T-56. Finally, I adjusted the breakouts at the back and shortened the fuel pump and fuel level sender branches about 22 inches each because they’re way too long. All to best fit how I’m planning to route the rear harness along the right side of the transmission tunnel and to the right around the planned storage box above the tank. This is a pretty rough picture, but the harness is wrapped back up and laying in the approximate position it will be secured when the time comes.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79372&d=1516128609

On a related note, every build needs to have some new tools, right? I picked up a Power Probe III that replaces several individual tools used while doing electrical work. This could become my next favorite tool. Measures voltage, continuity, plus can power circuits. I know a lot of people struggle with wiring. This might help if you have a basic understanding of electricity. This promo video shows what it does: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=181&v=GdH-e4Q9p5k. I bought the unit plus the cable kit. I like it.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=79395&d=1516141101


Paul - I just fit my rear harness and found the same situation with almost 2' extra on the legs for the sending unit and pump. I am curious, when you modified your harness did you simply cut and splice as needed or did you de-pin/re-pin? Some of these I am inclined to cut out what is not needed, crimp an inline butt connector and heatshrink. It's not my first choice but it can become a bear to find replacement pins for some of the connectors RF uses.

[edwardb]

Paul - I just fit my rear harness and found the same situation with almost 2' extra on the legs for the sending unit and pump. I am curious, when you modified your harness did you simply cut and splice as needed or did you de-pin/re-pin? Some of these I am inclined to cut out what is not needed, crimp an inline butt connector and heatshrink. It's not my first choice but it can become a bear to find replacement pins for some of the connectors RF uses.

I rarely if ever di-pin existing connectors or crimp new pins. They're often not easy to get apart without the proper tools and pins and the proper crimper can also be an issue. Probably the only exception to that is Weather Pack connectors which I use extensively mainly for lights but sometimes elsewhere. I have a decent crimper just for that style plus the parts are widely available. So to answer your question, for this location I cut the wires and splice at the shorter locations. For the record, I don't use the butt connectors included in the kit. Just not a fan. But many do and really don't want to debate it.

[PNWTim]

I rarely if ever di-pin existing connectors or crimp new pins. They're often not easy to get apart without the proper tools and pins and the proper crimper can also be an issue. Probably the only exception to that is Weather Pack connectors which I use extensively mainly for lights but sometimes elsewhere. I have a decent crimper just for that style plus the parts are widely available. So to answer your question, for this location I cut the wires and splice at the shorter locations. For the record, I don't use the butt connectors included in the kit. Just not a fan. But many do and really don't want to debate it.

That makes sense. I have two or three different crimpers and have done work with Packard, Delphi, Deutsch and Molex connectors but I hear you, not always easy to get in or out. I use correctly sized uninsulated metal butts that I buy in several sizes. I typically do not solder joints but prefer crimp and heat shrink. I know there are lots of ways to do this and I appreciate your feedback.

[edwardb]

That makes sense. I have two or three different crimpers and have done work with Packard, Delphi, Deutsch and Molex connectors but I hear you, not always easy to get in or out. I use correctly sized uninsulated metal butts that I buy in several sizes. I typically do not solder joints but prefer crimp and heat shrink. I know there are lots of ways to do this and I appreciate your feedback.

Sounds like you have this covered. You've accumulated crimpers that I just haven't pursed. So you're in a better place than me there. The kind of butt connectors you're describing, covered with triple wall sleeving (the kind with adhesive inside), is also what I do. My reference was to the cheap (sorry FF) ones supplied in the kits.

[The Stig]

Good evening Paul,


I know that this is a bit after the fact, but I've just finished reading your complete build thread, and to say that I was impressed is quite an understatement.

It was a great read. I think that the way you incorporated the details of the plan, the steps, the descisions, and excecution of the plan to your end goal was very nice.

I was very much inspired to want to do the same.

I've known for some time that I would like to build another Factory Five project, but was not sure what it would be. F9? Roadster-Mk5? or Coupe-Gen 3?

I'm thinking more seriously about the idea that a Gen-3 Type-65 Daytona Coupe may be in my future.


Thank you for letting us all ride along and enjoy the build with you.

Michael

[PNWTim]

Another quick update. Today finished the center switch panel. Wrapped it with the same C-F like vinyl used on my gauge panel. A little tedious, but it’s done and turned out nice I think. Also worked more on the overall layout of all the electrical components. I mounted the previously discussed modules across the top of the upper transmission tunnel cover. They’re pretty much out of the way of the main wiring harness and HVAC ducts. Plus hidden by the switch panel. So I think (hope) it’s all going to fit and be reasonably accessible if needed. This is the completed switch panel with everything mounted. Managed to sink quite a few hours into this with the design and fabrication. Lots going on, even though doesn't quite look like it now. One last minute surprise. Had to make a cutout in the switch panel base and trans cover for a corner of the Cole Hersee wiper/washer switch. It's pretty big. Then made a little sheet metal cover for the underside to seal it up. Always something.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88429&d=1530904496

Left to right – relays for the headlight reminder and fog lights, headlight control module, keyless push button start module, reverse lock-out module. Have to get everything hooked up, but this is a start.

Here’s the gauge cluster and switch panel in my now nearly completed dash. Lots of work to do obviously for all those wires hanging into the footbox. As mentioned before, planning vinyl on the front and top of the dash, with red stitching that matches my seats across the top front. No brow piece. The two trans covers will also be vinyl covered, with red stitching along the corners. The glove box door will probably be the same vinyl as the dash. I'll look at using the C-F style vinyl, although that might be too much. But coming together now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88431&d=1530904513

The switch panel is held in place with six screws through the bottom of the trans cover, all accessible from underneath, and two into the underside of the dash. With those screws removed, the panel will slide out. The gauge cluster is captured between the dash and the upper dash tube at the top and three screws along the bottom. With the switch panel and those three screws removed, it will tip out. At that point, all the wiring should be accessible, including the modules pictured previously. Both the upper and lower trans covers also will be removable. None of that would be real quick but possible. Hopefully won’t be necessary.

That’s a good head start on electrical. Basically fabrication is completed and ready for wiring. But going to take all this out and get going on permanently mounting panels and getting everything insulated. Then wiring can be finalized.

Family visits and other stuff going on for the next couple weeks, so progress will be slowed a little. That’s OK. With the warmer weather it’s been a little warm in the garage. Received another update on the Gen 3 Coyote. Saying “end of August” is looking pretty good. That works.

Paul - did you fill the unwanted holes in the dash with a backing plate and something like jb weld? I see a string of blind rivets that look like they might be fastening something of the kind. I have been kicking around several ideas to fill mine and noticed what you had done.

[edwardb]

Paul - did you fill the unwanted holes in the dash with a backing plate and something like jb weld? I see a string of blind rivets that look like they might be fastening something of the kind. I have been kicking around several ideas to fill mine and noticed what you had done.

There were only four holes across the bottom of the dash in the center as received from FF. Two of which i used. The headlight switch and the start button. The majority of those holes I added for a doubler piece on the back that's also holding the added switch panel below. I used small (don't remember the size) flat head screws that I countersunk as much as i could. Then used JB Weld as a filler and sanded smooth. The same thing as around the glovebox. Worked out well. Even the smallest irregularity prints through onto the dash covering (no padding) so important for it to be dead flat. Hope that answers your question.

[460.465USMC]

Paul, great to see your build featured on the F5 YouTube channel at the Mott build school! No doubt a big helping of inspiration for the aspiring builders attending the class. I was going to take my youngest son before my MK4 build, but then COVID happened.

Paul B. visited the Build School to chat about his gorgeous red Coupe. Paul is on his sixth build! (https://youtube.com/shorts/b6oIIwCyCjA?si=o-Jq4rjqz9Oacbuu)