Edwardb’s Gen 3 Type 65 Coyote Coupe #59 Build: 5,000 Mile Report

[edwardb]

Big progress to report for the paint. Yesterday, the shop did the stage and mask for the final paint steps. Then sprayed a tinted sealer over the completed and wet sanded primer. Said they added the tint to the sealer to give the most consistent color possible for the base color. Plus said for rock chips and such would show some color versus white. (Perish that thought. For now anyway.) Then put the base color on. Today the clear started and I was there to watch. These pictures are after the first coat. Said it will get five. Next week it will get sanded and polished and I may have it back home late in the week. If not then soon after. The color is just what I wanted and I think looks amazing. All the work they did getting the body sorted out is paying off now. Looks flawless. I did half white on the back. Kind of a trademark Coupe look plus Peter Brock’s is painted that way with no stripes and just that trim color, as I've mentioned before. Kind of cool and the look I’m going for. Nothing more to say but show the pics.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118159&d=1574891845

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118158&d=1574891836

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118156&d=1574891820

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https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118153&d=1574891798

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118157&d=1574891828

[Higgybulin]

Looks great Paul!!! I'll have to get back over to see it when you get it home!

[Garage Guy]

Wow looks real good

[GoDadGo]

Wow looks real good

Double Ditto On The Wow Factor!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Looks great! Do you know what clear they are using?

Jeff

[edwardb]

Looks great! Do you know what clear they are using?

Jeff

Hi Jeff. Not specifically. I asked and it's Sikkens. Said everything except the initial body filler is from Sikkens. Said they don't like to mix brands from there out.

[q4stix]

That's one nice looking coupe! I'm more a metallic color fan but that stands out really nicely!
I like the simplicity of the single white patch too. Not something usually seen but still has heritage

[Straversi]

That’s going to be stunning!
-Steve

[David Williamson]

WOW looks great!!
David W

[VAHokie]

Looks great, Paul. Looking forward to seeing the finished product!

[RJD]

I see more trophies ahead. Stunning!

[UpNorth]

Paul,

It looks amazing. I really like it!

[CTHiker52]

All I can say is WOW!! Absolutely beautiful.

[Caddy Dad]

Stunning. Absolutely stunning. Looks awesome!

[Papa]

That color is perfect!

[Kool AC]

Looking good Paul. Love the color!

[Jake From State Farm]

Hi Paul, I wandered over here from the GTM/818 builds I normally keep tabs on and came across your build thread. Just wanted to say that your paint job is absolutely stunning. That red really, really pops. Can’t wait to see the finished product!

- Jake

[Jazzman]

Hello Paul -

I heartily approve of your color choice! Gorgeous red, no stripe, . . . sounds like another car I love!! As always you set the standard for craftsmanship. Congratulations on another perfect build. I also agree that there are likely some more trophies coming your way.

Kevin
(aka Jazzman)

[edwardb]

Hello Paul -

I heartily approve of your color choice! Gorgeous red, no stripe, . . . sounds like another car I love!! As always you set the standard for craftsmanship. Congratulations on another perfect build. I also agree that there are likely some more trophies coming your way.

Kevin
(aka Jazzman)

Thanks Kevin. Good to hear from you. I certainly remember the color of your Roadster. But didn't remember it didn't have stripes. Cool! :cool:

[edwardb]

Can't have too many pictures, right? Wet sending and final polish happening. Color looks even better out of the booth as expected. Maybe home this week??? Hope so.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118397&d=1575316674

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118400&d=1575316700

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118399&d=1575316692

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118398&d=1575316681

[GoDadGo]

Soon This Car Will Be Winning Awards!

Many Of Them I Am Certain!

Well Done!

[ydousurf]

The car looks awesome, Paul! And the color is a such beautiful red - love it! No doubt, you'll be taking home some future trophies to the garage.
Dj

[Jazzman]

The next obvious question is what's next for the incomparable EdwardB? I mean after you take all your victory laps, awards at multiple shows, etc. Is Mrs. EdwardB going to give you the nod to do yet another one or do you have other plans to fill your time? Whatever you do, I am quite sure you will exceed all expectations. May whatever it turns out to be be a joy for you! All my best!

Kevin

[edwardb]

The next obvious question is what's next for the incomparable EdwardB? I mean after you take all your victory laps, awards at multiple shows, etc. Is Mrs. EdwardB going to give you the nod to do yet another one or do you have other plans to fill your time? Whatever you do, I am quite sure you will exceed all expectations. May whatever it turns out to be be a joy for you! All my best!

Kevin

Thanks for the generous comments. Our plan is to drive both the Roadster and the Coupe next season and get our impressions of each. Plus several projects here around the house I need to spend some time on. Some finishing in the basement, new siding on the garden shed, the usual glamorous projects. As for another build, we don't have room or a reason to add another to the garage. So a decision would be necessary before starting a new build. Planning to attend the 25th Anniversary Open House next summer at Factory Five and might just sneak a peak at the new super car they've been talking about. We'll see what happens from there. But for now, need to push this one across the finish line. So back to the current build.

[edwardb]

Doesn't look like I'll get the Coupe back in my garage workshop this week. But as of today, promised for early next week. Final wet sand and polish is happening on the main body parts. Then a couple small parts to finish up (spoiler, mirrors, engine cover) then it's mine. Not anxious or anything. For those that haven't seen the process in detail, it's pretty crazy.

Base coat and clear in the booth (picture posted previously). This is where most production cars stop. If done properly, of course can be very nice. But the next steps take it to the next level that most of us are going for and typical for these builds:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118154&d=1574891805

Wet sanded with progressively finer paper until dead flat. A messy process:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118512&d=1575512155

Wet sanding done. A little scary looking, unless you're going for the flat or satin look, which I'm not:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118513&d=1575512163

Then polished, typically with three different grades of pads and compounds. Repeat all over until done.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118514&d=1575512180

[GoDadGo]

Dang Sir Paul,

I just got home from work doing stupid long hours & you keep building cars.
This One Will Truly Be Your Best Build Ever!
Dang that 5:00 alarm will come early.
Have a great evening.

Steve

[Physasst]

That color and paint scheme are just sick. Cannot wait to see this thing finished. Now I have to go talk to the wife about building a bigger garage....LOL.

[edwardb]

Visited the shop today. Getting close now. They said should be ready for pickup on Wednesday. Main body polish is done with just minor clean-up remaining. Nose piece and doors also getting final details. Mirrors and spoiler are painted just need polishing. Engine cover was being painted when I was there. These pictures aren't a lot different than ones posted previously, but here they are FWIW. Pretty sure I like it. :eek:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118724&d=1575924767

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118723&d=1575924756

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118725&d=1575924775

[Papa]

Beautiful!

[WIS89]

Paul-

I go out of town for a little bit, come home and look what I missed! WOW, just WOW!! She looks beautiful, and such a great color choice. I Also like the treatment on the rear of the car; I like stripes in general, but I like how this works!

Thanks as always for sharing your progress, and good luck wrapping things up! I know you are looking forward to getting things finished, but I have to confess... so am I!

Awesome job!!

Regards,

Steve

[Jimtmich]

Looks fantastic Paul!

[edwardb]

Drove to the shop today and brought the Coupe home. First time out for the new SE and worked great. The Coupe actually fits. Snowing off and on, and the coldest day of the year so far with the wind chill. But we got it done. Huge thanks to my friend Greg for keeping me company and lending a hand. The Coyote started right up after sitting there for two months (big surprise) and had no issues driving it in and back out of the trailer. Needless to say, I’m really pleased with the paint. Should be since a Coupe isn’t cheap to paint as I’ve now found out. Especially to this level. But it’s done and that’s behind me. It’s a little dusty but not terrible. Tomorrow will get it up on the lift, cleaned up a bit, and start final assembly. Need to get it far enough along to take some decent pictures for my Autorama submission. Then completely done by the end of February for the show. After that, will start the title and registration process so it’s ready to drive by spring.

First couple pictures are at the shop. Bolted on the prototype side pipes back and put the nose back on. First time it had been together since early body work. Drew its first crowd. Looks amazing. Leaving the doors off until the interior is done. Way easier to work on plus helps prevents any damage.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118834&d=1576124579

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118833&d=1576124571

Couple hours later, unloaded and safely back in the home shop. The sun was shining a bit when we loaded it onto the trailer. The color looks a little brighter and really pops in the sun. These pictures in general are a bit darker than it looks in natural light and especially in the sun. But you get the idea. The engine cover turned out great and does the best it can to clean up that busy Gen 3 Coyote engine compartment.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118835&d=1576124586

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118836&d=1576124594

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118837&d=1576124603

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118838&d=1576124611

Tomorrow will start digging in.

[Physasst]

Wow....just wow. Stunning.

Mike

[delta0014]

Looks incredible.

[wareaglescott]

Spectacular Paul! Congrats on getting it home.
Cant wait to see a group shot with the roadster. Gonna be quite the pair!

[Higgybulin]

I know where everyone's having coffee this Saturday!!

[delta0014]

I would be curious to hear your thoughts on the Coupe vs Roadster build when it's all done.
And your thoughts, maybe after the summer driving season, on your likes/dislikes about each one or which keys you reach for the most.

[GoDadGo]

I know where everyone's having coffee this Saturday!!

At the office working; Oh, you Mean Sir Edwardb & his band of Merry Men!

Paul,

Man You Do Phenomenal Work & Obviously Picked A Great Paint Shop Too!
.....Another Award Winner Is About To Graduate & Collect Some Well Deserved Trophies!

Steve

[David Williamson]

Looking great. I like the half white on the back, I toyed with doing silver but in the end decided not to. I might have missed it but what is the color?? It is hard to tell for sure on a computer but it looks close to mine, a little lighter red I think.
David W

[Gadsden]

Amazing! Incredible! You have really set the bar for Coupe builds. I have learned so much from following this thread, thank you !

[edwardb]

Looking great. I like the half white on the back, I toyed with doing silver but in the end decided not to. I might have missed it but what is the color?? It is hard to tell for sure on a computer but it looks close to mine, a little lighter red I think.
David W

Thanks for all the encouraging comments guys. It really is a relief getting the Coupe home. I don't know why, but I stress too much when it's at the paint shop. Worried I guess about how it's going to turn out, will I like it, how much longer will it take, miss working on it, etc. It was a couple days over two months, almost exactly what they promised. I don't how some of you wait the durations I hear about sometimes. But all that's behind me now. So starting to dig in for the final steps.

The color is Ford Red Candy 2, code RZ, which is technically a tri-coat. It's the same color I requested for my current Roadster, painted by the same shop. For the Roadster, they were using Standox paints and applied as a tri-coat. For the Coupe, now several years later, the shop has switched over to Sikkens for all their paint work. Their Sikkens dealer mixed the color as a standard base coat/clear coat. Saved some money for both material and application, and far easier to touch up. Sitting next to the Roadster now, they're very close. Of course both pop quite a bit more in natural light and especially in bright sunlight.


I would be curious to hear your thoughts on the Coupe vs Roadster build when it's all done.
And your thoughts, maybe after the summer driving season, on your likes/dislikes about each one or which keys you reach for the most.

Have some pretty clear thoughts about the build at this point. It's been a fun build, but a bit challenging in a couple ways. Mostly just getting the body to fit the way I wanted plus I've found it's much more expensive to paint. I pushed things a bit being early with the Gen 3 Coyote. The Coupe does have a little more complication with heat and A/C (almost mandatory IMO) plus the interior is more complicated than the Roadster, which I didn't make any easier by doing a bunch of custom stuff. But for the most part, the chassis, suspension, sheet metal, etc. is very similar to the work on the Roadster. In the end, don't regret a single decision I made and don't know that it's any harder to build than a Roadster. But I would definitely say it's somewhat more complicated and also requires a bigger budget.

As for comparison driving, yeah that will wait until next season. I'm expecting it to be very similar to our Roadster since many of the components are the same with the same options (Coyote, IRS, Wilwood, etc.). But with a bit more creature comforts being enclosed. Will report back when the time comes.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Looks nice Paul! They did a good job faking the 3 stage. Looking forward to seeing it with glass and all back together!

[Vette1972]

Amazing just AMAZING!!!!!!!!!!!

[Sdonnel]

Now he just has to decide which car he's bringing to London. Wouldn't we all love to have that problem!!!!! As usual Paul, Perfection.

[jwhit]

looks super ,thanks for all your post im sure i will go back to see yours as im building mine

[edwardb]

Now he just has to decide which car he's bringing to London. Wouldn't we all love to have that problem!!!!! As usual Paul, Perfection.

Hey Scott. Unless something changes that I'm sure not expecting, bringing the Coupe to London this year. For the past two years, I've been asked a bunch of times "Where's the Coupe?" Kept promising it for 2020, and plan to make good on that.

[Jkviper]

Outstanding job Paul. Your build is something to be very proud of. I really enjoyed watching this come together. Just amazing!

[Sdonnel]

We're looking forward to seeing it in person in London, if not before at a club event. I'll put money on the fact that your coupe will be next to the FFR trailer. Time will tell who gets their roadster to share the display with you. Be careful during final assembly. No scratches allowed.

[Garry Bopp]

Paul,

Look forward to seeing this beauty at LCS!

Garry

[CTHiker52]

Paul, it is stunning. I can’t wait to see it completed. You have done a masterful job. I have learned so much from you and I thank you for that. Gary

[Erik W. Treves]

looks great!

[Bob Brandle]

Paul, Same remarks as many and in particular, Gary/CTHiker52, "It is stunning. I can’t wait to see it completed. You have done a masterful job. I have learned so much from you and I thank you for that."

[Mark Reynolds]

I think I can taste that paint!:)

[Papa]

Paul,

I like how the engine cover came out. It looks great. The factory version reminds me of the aliens from Independence Day.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118936&d=1576374212

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118937&d=1576374222

[edwardb]

Not a bunch to report. But will check in with a progress report. Spent time cleaning things up. Still chasing some dust and grime in the engine compartment, but mostly done. One of the side benefits of all the hoses and harnesses on the Coyote installation. The shop did a good job of keeping everything masked and delivered the car relatively clean. But painting is a messy process to say the least. I have the spoiler and third brake light installed, all the rear lighting, all the front lighting, and happy to say everything works. Installed the fuel filler cap and buttoned up the tank filler and cover inside the hatch area. Feels really good to see the Coupe back up on the lift and parts going on for (hopefully!) the last time.

Also, trial fit the new Gas-N side pipes. Going to take a couple wedges to get them just right. So sent an order off to Mark at Breeze and will hopefully get those done when received. Those polished SS pipes sure look good against the new paint.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118979&d=1576442945

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118981&d=1576442962

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118980&d=1576442953

This picture shows the horseshoe-like retainer I fabricated for where the filler tube goes into the tank. The standard SS ring that came with the kit doesn’t quite work with the Coupe chassis. It’s oriented the wrong direction to attach properly. I’ve done something like this on a couple Roadster builds. Accomplishes the same thing and adds a bit of rigidity where the tube goes into the tank seal. Fabricated from 1/8-inch aluminum, a piece of split fuel tubing, and held in place with two nutserts into the frame.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118983&d=1576443035

Next up will start fitting the carpet and get several of the pieces off to the interior shop to bind the edges. Minimally along the top edges of the transmission tunnel where the carpet meets the top cover, along the door sills, and on the folding cover over the dropped trunk floor. I’ll see what else.

[GoDadGo]

Really Looking Fantastic!

[edwardb]

Plugging away wrapping up multiple final details. So far, everything has taken longer than expected. So what’s new about that? This is another pretty minor update, but probably the last until after Christmas, family visits, etc. No pictures but took eight carpet pieces to my auto interior guy for binding on the edges where they’ll be exposed. He had them done in a couple days and have them on hand to start installation. Also received the exhaust header wedges from Mark at Breeze. Did a quick trial fit and I have what I need for a perfect side pipe fit. I’ll need to relocate the holes on the kit side hangars just a bit, then all will be good. Hope to get the exhaust system 100% wrapped up very soon.

I installed the glass hatch cover. Fit just like it did during mockup, except this time installed the self-adhesive gasket material. Fits and works well. Don’t recall if I mentioned this before, but I made a different latch piece from a piece of angle aluminum and had it powder coated. I thought the kit provided one was a little wimpy. This one has a larger base and doesn’t require a spacer. Also installed the rear hatch cover and the rear splash guards. I made a minor change with the hatch cover. The instructions show riveting it through the body lip that it fits behind. I didn’t want to drill holes through my new paint job. Plus, with the bulb seal and carpet, doesn’t fit right up against the body lip anyway. I put a nutsert in the center of the cover and put a screw into it that’s hidden behind the latch. This provides enough support IMO and leaves space for the bulb seal and carpet.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119200&d=1576805508

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119199&d=1576805499

Fit and glued the side mesh pieces in place. Then located and stuck down the Ford Performance emblems I’m using. Used the same location for the emblem that Ron and team used on the SEMA Coupe build from a year ago. Looked good to me.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119201&d=1576805516

Finally, some have reported issues with the kit provided gas struts for the hood being able to hold it up adequately. I haven’t found that to be the case. Mine seems very solid. Even now after the added weight of filler and paint. I did adjust the chassis location just slightly but don’t think that changed anything. It opens about as far as I want with the nose close to the ground when open. But some have expressed concern about wind if open for an extended time like at a car show. Crashing down would obviously not be a good thing. From a safety standpoint, also think about what might happen if a shock should fail while I’m working under it. Some have gone to a prop rod versus the gas shocks, but I like the convenience of the gas shocks. Another build posted info about lift support clamps that could be added when needed. Didn’t know such a thing existed. What a great suggestion. The idea included a link to clamps on Amazon. Unfortunately, they were blue :p. With a little searching found the same thing in red. These are CTA Tools 5360 Lift Support Clamps and aren’t expensive at $13 each. Has a brass insert in the end of the bolt so doesn’t damage the gas strut. Look like this. Easy to take on and off.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119202&d=1576805525

With that I’m off for a bit. Merry Christmas everyone and see you on the other side of the holidays.

[65 Cobra Dude]

Great job Paul! Can you show a picture of your new rear latch piece?

Thx,

Henry

[edwardb]

Great job Paul! Can you show a picture of your new rear latch piece?

Thx,

Henry

Hey Henry. Here you go. This is one I had before paint and powder coat. But you get the idea. It's 1" x 2" against the body, and just under 3/4" deep where it catches.

Also, for those watching closely, that little piece of gasket material I used for spacing during mock-up is backwards. It's installed the other way around, with the taller/thinner section on the inside versus the outside. Helps to actually read the instructions, which fortunately I did before installing the entire gasket a couple days ago.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=107360&d=1558040947

[wareaglescott]

Looking really amazing Paul. Love seeing these final fitting updates. The glass hatch looks like a spectacular fit. Will you be able to install the front windshield yourself? I am already having anxiety about trying that on my 911 build!

Hope you have a wonderful Christmas.

[65 Cobra Dude]

Thanks for the pic Paul. Outstanding work as usual. See you in TX.

Henry

[Ducky2009]

Looks Great! Love the color... and the chrome side pipes.

[GoDadGo]

How About A Walk Around Youtube When You Are Done!

Man I Wish I Had Half Of Your Skills!

Even A Quarter Would Do!

Steve

[edwardb]

Looking really amazing Paul. Love seeing these final fitting updates. The glass hatch looks like a spectacular fit. Will you be able to install the front windshield yourself? I am already having anxiety about trying that on my 911 build!

Hope you have a wonderful Christmas.

Thanks. Yeah, the hatch fit is good. I'll be curious to see how watertight it is. Seems to pull down on the gasket OK. But we'll see. Or maybe just stay out of the rain. :) Pretty sure I'm going to do the windshield myself. Talked to the manager at the place that did my paint and got a lot of pointers. They have a shop they recommend and use, so have that as a fallback position. Just a pain with the logistics of getting it there and back. Plus yet more cost. Probably my biggest concern is getting the black band (called a frit) around the windshield applied neatly. The vintage windshield used in the kit was before those were applied. The urethane itself seems pretty foolproof.


Thanks for the pic Paul. Outstanding work as usual. See you in TX.

Henry

Not planning Texas next year. This year was the first and maybe last. It's just a long haul from Michigan. But London for sure. Also planning to do the Factory Five Open House, as long as the schedule works.


Looks Great! Love the color... and the chrome side pipes.

Thanks. Agreed. The color turned out great. The pipes are polished stainless. From Gas-N.


How About A Walk Around Youtube When You Are Done!

Man I Wish I Had Half Of Your Skills!

Even A Quarter Would Do!

Steve

You're too generous... A walkaround video is a great idea. Maybe when it's set up for display at Autorama. I'll keep it in mind.

[David Williamson]

I did the windshield with help from my wife. The black primer is a pain, took 3 coats to get it looking good. We used good painters tape and still had it bleed under. A razor blade cleaned it up well.
David W

[edwardb]

Around family visits over the holidays was able to get a few things further along. Then a couple quality days this week. While our oldest son was here, he helped me do the final installation on the side pipes and also final installation on the seats. Another set of hands for tasks like those sure make them easier. Especially when working around that freshly painted body. Before that, with some early mornings and late evenings, was able to get all the carpeting installed. In some ways, easier than the Roadster if you’re also doing the trunk since you’re basically doing the entire interior as one area. I used my standard Dap 00443 Weldwood Outdoor Carpet Adhesive for much of it, and DAP Weldwood Landau Top & Trim HHR Contact Cement for some of the smaller pieces. Both stick very well. But the carpet adhesive allows some repositioning which is critical for larger parts. Especially the giant floor piece. Can’t imagine doing that one with grabbing contact cement. I know a lot of guys use spray adhesive for the carpet, and that’s OK too. I just prefer these products. I have everything done except the folding cover for the trunk box, so that’s missing in the pics.

Gas-N side pipes look fantastic. Took one wedge on each side to get them perfect. The kit supplied hangars worked fine after a small adjustment of the hole to the pipe tab.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119893&d=1578025262

Not too much of the carpet visible in the cockpit with the seats in. But it’s all there. I'll be adding Russ Thompson sill plates, trimmed a bit because I chose to wrap the carpet over the edge. Did that because (1) Hides the body mounting bolts, (2) Carpet goes under the door so looks better from the inside, and (3) Gives a softer place to rest your elbow when seated. Seems to fall about there for me.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119894&d=1578025269

Carpet inside the hatch area including the still open trunk box. Still need to trim the end of the wrapped shoulder straps. Waiting until I confirm the exact length on the seats and finalize the wraps.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119900&d=1578025316

Hung the doors and windows. With a little adjustment, fit perfectly. Really happy with how everything lines up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119898&d=1578025297

Today I’m finishing up the door cards and other interior details. Not much left here. Door cards are held on with the door handles and 3M VHB double back tape. Had to remove one after I installed it (don’t ask…) and it holds just fine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119899&d=1578025308

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119897&d=1578025286

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119896&d=1578025278

Few more days and items off my list, and I’ll get pics for my Autorama application. It won’t be 100% complete (e.g. mainly windshield not installed yet) but I need to get the application in by the deadline.

[ydousurf]

Dang Paul, the car looks absolutely incredible! And the pipes just make it pop --- WOW! No doubt you have another over-the-top build. I/WE can't wait to see it completed. Outstanding!

Dj

[FF33rod]

Wow, simply WOW. It doesn't get any better than that Paul.
Gorgeous

-Steve

[Erik W. Treves]

that is looking REALLY good!

Before you drive it... I would HIGHLY recommend the area of the pontoon right behind the front wheel... that area get BLASTED! As you know I put my aluminum in front of the pontoon (instruction say to do it like you did).. I also put bed liner on top of the aluminum.... in 4000 miles I have had to touch it up twice.... that paint is sooo nice.... I would think some THICK 3m clear would be a good plan.

The sill plates of the doors as well... I assume you have some aluminum nice pieces..... be careful if driving in shorts and climbing in and out - your hammy might get a little bit from the heat :) ask me how I know.... I had put aluminum covers on there after SEMA (over the grip tape) - but after 2 ouch moments ... I took them off... the other thing you could do .. thought of it after I pulled them off is just put some clear 3m on them... might keep it cooler with the added benefit of giving it some scratch protection

Only other little annoying thing I ran into was with the seats... depending on how far back you sit and how much flex there is in the seat with you in it...in dynamic operation my seat would intermittently contact the roll bar causing a "click" - drove my OCD into complete overdrive.... I ended up putting a piece of rubber roll bar cushion on the part of the bar that was in contact... on BOTH seats :)

Congrats! a very nice build !!

[edwardb]

that is looking REALLY good!

Before you drive it... I would HIGHLY recommend the area of the pontoon right behind the front wheel... that area get BLASTED! As you know I put my aluminum in front of the pontoon (instruction say to do it like you did).. I also put bed liner on top of the aluminum.... in 4000 miles I have had to touch it up twice.... that paint is sooo nice.... I would think some THICK 3m clear would be a good plan.

The sill plates of the doors as well... I assume you have some aluminum nice pieces..... be careful if driving in shorts and climbing in and out - your hammy might get a little bit from the heat :) ask me how I know.... I had put aluminum covers on there after SEMA (over the grip tape) - but after 2 ouch moments ... I took them off... the other thing you could do .. thought of it after I pulled them off is just put some clear 3m on them... might keep it cooler with the added benefit of giving it some scratch protection

Only other little annoying thing I ran into was with the seats... depending on how far back you sit and how much flex there is in the seat with you in it...in dynamic operation my seat would intermittently contact the roll bar causing a "click" - drove my OCD into complete overdrive.... I ended up putting a piece of rubber roll bar cushion on the part of the bar that was in contact... on BOTH seats :)

Congrats! a very nice build !!

Thanks Erik. Great comments. You've touched on several things from my punch list. I'm planning to put film on the sill plates. Hadn't thought of them getting hot, but makes sense. Hmmm. Haven't decided yet what to do with the front of the pontoons. Might try film. Maybe make some kind of mud flap out of plastic or rubber that attaches on the front. Maybe just spray with UPOL Raptor like I have on the body underside. That stuff is considerably tougher than the solvent brush-on variety. My seats also touch the roll bar right at the top and I too noticed them squeaking as I was getting in and out. If it doesn't stop, I'll do something there too.

[Bobmac]

Congratulations Paul! Absolutely fantastic build. Thank you so much for the time and effort you put into documenting and posting all of your information especially where to go to to buy the speciality parts, very helpful. You are a CLASS ACT!
Bob McLaughlin

[timsmitaruba]

Hi Edward, all looks awesome man. Where did you get your Ford Performance emblems?
Rgds. Tim

[edwardb]

Hi Edward, all looks awesome man. Where did you get your Ford Performance emblems?
Rgds. Tim

Thanks. The emblems are Ford Performance part number M-16098-PBFP. I got them from Summit Racing. But they're widely available at multiple sources. Nice pieces.

[jwhit]

Around family visits over the holidays was able to get a few things further along. Then a couple quality days this week. While our oldest son was here, he helped me do the final installation on the side pipes and also final installation on the seats. Another set of hands for tasks like those sure make them easier. Especially when working around that freshly painted body. Before that, with some early mornings and late evenings, was able to get all the carpeting installed. In some ways, easier than the Roadster if you’re also doing the trunk since you’re basically doing the entire interior as one area. I used my standard Dap 00443 Weldwood Outdoor Carpet Adhesive for much of it, and DAP Weldwood Landau Top & Trim HHR Contact Cement for some of the smaller pieces. Both stick very well. But the carpet adhesive allows some repositioning which is critical for larger parts. Especially the giant floor piece. Can’t imagine doing that one with grabbing contact cement. I know a lot of guys use spray adhesive for the carpet, and that’s OK too. I just prefer these products. I have everything done except the folding cover for the trunk box, so that’s missing in the pics.

Gas-N side pipes look fantastic. Took one wedge on each side to get them perfect. The kit supplied hangars worked fine after a small adjustment of the hole to the pipe tab.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119893&d=1578025262

Not too much of the carpet visible in the cockpit with the seats in. But it’s all there. I'll be adding Russ Thompson sill plates, trimmed a bit because I chose to wrap the carpet over the edge. Did that because (1) Hides the body mounting bolts, (2) Carpet goes under the door so looks better from the inside, and (3) Gives a softer place to rest your elbow when seated. Seems to fall about there for me.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119894&d=1578025269

Carpet inside the hatch area including the still open trunk box. Still need to trim the end of the wrapped shoulder straps. Waiting until I confirm the exact length on the seats and finalize the wraps.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119900&d=1578025316

Hung the doors and windows. With a little adjustment, fit perfectly. Really happy with how everything lines up.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119898&d=1578025297

Today I’m finishing up the door cards and other interior details. Not much left here. Door cards are held on with the door handles and 3M VHB double back tape. Had to remove one after I installed it (don’t ask…) and it holds just fine.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119899&d=1578025308

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119897&d=1578025286

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=119896&d=1578025278

Few more days and items off my list, and I’ll get pics for my Autorama application. It won’t be 100% complete (e.g. mainly windshield not installed yet) but I need to get the application in by the deadline.

i love the way you did dash and trans tunnel ,how did you cover? just glued to sheet metal?

[edwardb]

i love the way you did dash and trans tunnel ,how did you cover? just glued to sheet metal?

Thanks. I'm happy with how it turned out as well. Lots of work there though. The top of the rear trans tunnel, the face of the dash and glovebox, and the door cards have 1/8-inch closed cell foam and then the covering. The rest have the vinyl applied directly without the foam. All is done with DAP Weldwood Landau Top & Trim HHR Contact Cement.

[Garry Bopp]

Stunning build, Paul, but we kind of expect that from you! Looking forward to seeing this beauty at Open House and LCS!

Garry

[edwardb]

Knocked some more items off my final assembly punch list. But mainly focused on the clear acrylic quarter window scoops and headlight covers. Both come in the kit oversized and must be fit before installation. First up the quarter windows. I had previously fit those to the body before paint. So just a matter of confirming they still fit, which they did. Then drilled holes and installed using the supplied self-tapping screws. Nothing too earthshaking here. The installed windows just clear the center of the scoops when the door opens and closes. Scared me the first time I opened the door. Also in this pic you can see one of the previously mentioned Peter Brock side mirrors. Had the body color added to the main body of the mirrors.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120277&d=1578509196

Then worked on the headlight covers. These I have to say were pretty tedious and took longer (that again…) than I expected to get the fit I was hoping for. First taped the edges of the openings, then kept trimming and sanding. Important to make a mark on the piece and the opening so you’re coming back to the same location each time when re-sizing. Otherwise you’d be chasing the fit even longer. Note I left the film on the clear pieces until I was completely done. Protects them, plus gives a surface to write on. I used a fine point Sharpie. Once fitted, proceeded to get them mounted. I had previously purchased some very nice rod end bolts that I was going to use for mounting. This was an idea from another build thread, which I mentioned and pictured previously. A really nice, elegant, and clean installation. But in the end, didn’t use them. I was concerned about getting the location and angle just right, especially since I’m working with finished paint. Plus, unless spacers were used, the holes would be very close to edge of the clear acrylic. And finally I wasn’t positive I could get the to the back side of the bolt to add the retaining nut. Or maybe I'm just getting tired and ready for this to be done. Whatever, I decided to use the stock right angle clips, which I thought would be a little more forgiving to install.

So having said that, some feedback on the instructions in the manual. The kit supplies self-tapping screws to go through the clear acrylic and into the clips. That simply doesn’t work. The SS clips totally sheer off the threads of the screws the first time they go in. I ended up tapping the clips and using 8-32 button head screws. That worked great, although tapping that SS requires some patience and cutting fluid. Once I’m pretty sure nothing will be coming apart soon, I’ll use a little RTV on the threads to make sure they don’t vibrate loose. Don’t ever use Loctite around acrylic.

Second feedback on the instructions is they say to rivet the clips to the opening, and then bend with pliers to match the angle of the acrylic cover. Those are tough little pieces, and bending them against a pop rivet in fiberglass plus while on finished paint didn’t seem like a good idea to me. Instead, I trial fit them with double back tape, and removed and bent off the car as many times as needed to get a good fit. Then with them back in place, marked the holes, drilled, and used Clecos to confirm the proper location and angle. Again, adjusting as needed. Once that was done, worked the pieces over with my polisher (looked much better that way) and popped the rivets to hold in place. Then marked and drilled the holes in the cover. Tedious process, but it all worked OK. No paint was harmed in the process. And the fit looks good. Once I pulled the film on the covers, found them a little bumpy on the back side. It’s only barely noticeable once installed. But maybe this is the quality issue Factory Five has been having, and why they took so long to arrive. Some kits still have them backordered.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120276&d=1578509187

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120279&d=1578509212

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120278&d=1578509205

Note in both cases, I used drill bits specifically made for acrylic plastic, as mentioned in a previous post. Supposed to prevent cracking. Seemed to work fine. Also, in both cases, Factory Five recommends sanding and polishing the edges of the acrylic. I progressively worked up to 1500 grit and polished using Meguiar's G12310 PlastX Clear Plastic Cleaner & Polish. The manual recommends 3M, but this is what my local parts store had and it seemed to work OK. Side issue, after doing the quarter window vents and headlight covers, noted the supplied side window and sliding door acrylic edges are quite rough. Some even sharp enough to cut if you weren’t careful. Added that to my “to-do” list when I run out of real tasks.

[edwardb]

One of my big goals for this build was to enter it into the 2020 Detroit Autorama. I’ve done this show with each of my builds, and even though a lot of work it’s something I enjoy doing. January 15 is the due date for the application, so I’ve been thrashing to get this far enough along for pictures and the completed application. As of earlier today, the application is in the mail. With seven weeks to go, I should have plenty of time to complete the details that aren’t showing in the pics. Including the missing windshield which clearly is visible. These are what I sent with my application. Would have liked to take the exterior pics outside. Less cluttered and better light. But cold with snow on the ground now. So these will have to do. First time off the lift since back in the shop from paint. Man, can't wait to drive this thing.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120284&d=1578509267

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120285&d=1578509275

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120283&d=1578509257

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120281&d=1578509240

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120282&d=1578509249

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120286&d=1578509283

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120280&d=1578509231

[Jake From State Farm]

Have you considered painting a black stripe around the interior perimeter of the headlight covers? That would hide the mounting tabs and clean up nicely. Switch to black fasteners when you go back for the RTV and the average Joe may not even know they’re on the car.

[GoDadGo]

Best In Class & Likely Best In Show Will Be Yours Again!

Fantastic Work As Usual Sir Paul; Simply Fantastic!

Steve

[edwardb]

Have you considered painting a black stripe around the interior perimeter of the headlight covers? That would hide the mounting tabs and clean up nicely. Switch to black fasteners when you go back for the RTV and the average Joe may not even know they’re on the car.

Thanks for your suggestions. Cleaned up and polished, I really don’t mind the clips. They kind of blend in with the bright work on the headlights and smaller lights. I considered painting them black, but they would have still been completely visible. Don’t really want the look of a black border, or whatever that might do to the headlights shining through.

[edwardb]

Best In Class & Likely Best In Show Will Be Yours Again!

Fantastic Work As Usual Sir Paul; Simply Fantastic!

Steve

Thanks Steve. If you’re talking about Autorama, there are several thousand cars plus the millions invested Ridler award entrants. Way out of my league, and pocketbook to say the least. I’ll be very happy with whatever recognition I get in my class.

[GoDadGo]

Thanks Steve. If you’re talking about Autorama, there are several thousand cars plus the millions invested Ridler award entrants. Way out of my league, and pocketbook to say the least. I’ll be very happy with whatever recognition I get in my class.

I'm just not a big fan of the over the top show cars so you'll get my vote.

Elegant Form With Excellent Function Is What You Do Best!

Good Luck & Hope You Do Well!

[progmgr1]

"Once I’m pretty sure nothing will be coming apart soon, I’ll use a little RTV on the threads to make sure they don’t vibrate loose. Don’t ever use Loctite around acrylic."

Thanks, Paul! Another of those little nuggets of knowledge that show up so frequently in your comments. I'm learning to read everything you post, just because I seem to learn something new each time. Keith

[CTHiker52]

The car is looking better each day. Your attention to detail amazes me. Beautiful.

[Automan]

I just got my Russel sil plates and platoon covers. Amazing. quality.

Your car looks awesome. I have learned a lot from your build. thank you
Nelson

[John Dol]

Paul,

Car looks great. One thing to think about is making a black border on your 1/4 windows. Will make a a more finished look.

Good luck at Autorama

John

[edwardb]

Paul,

Car looks great. One thing to think about is making a black border on your 1/4 windows. Will make a a more finished look.

Good luck at Autorama

John

Thanks. Do you have a picture of what you're talking about? Every Coupe I've seen, including the ones at Factory Five and in their gallery pictures, haven't done anything with the acrylic scoop. If that's what you mean.

[Jim1855]

Paul,

Looks great.

And I "owe" you this. The engine cover looks really good too.

Jim

[Papa]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120284&d=1578509267



Paul,

The mirrors look really sporty. Are those part of the kit? Also, probably a really dumb question, how do you open the doors -- assume you have to reach inside to use the latch?

The car is amazing and is giving me bad (expensive) thoughts. :o

Dave

[JimS]

The car looks really nice Paul! Sorry to see you gone from the other forum.

Jim

[edwardb]

Paul,

Looks great.

And I "owe" you this. The engine cover looks really good too.

Jim
You're too funny Jim. It turned out as good as can be expected I think for that Gen 3 Coyote which isn't easy to dress up.


Paul,

The mirrors look really sporty. Are those part of the kit? Also, probably a really dumb question, how do you open the doors -- assume you have to reach inside to use the latch?

The car is amazing and is giving me bad (expensive) thoughts. :o

Dave

No, the kit comes with a single fender mounted mirror. Same one as the Roadster. Has the same problem. Poor visibility. Plus I want a mirror on both sides. Those mirrors I described in an earlier post. They're from Peter Brock and ones he has available for the Coupe. In addition to looking decent, you can actually see out of them. https://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=B&Product_Code=010D01&Category_Code=mirror. Not cheap, but nice quality. The guys that painted my car recognized them as a commercially available item. But I have no idea where, and besides I can say I have something from Peter Brock on my build.

Yes, you have to reach through the side windows to pull the door handle to open it. Not that bad, but then I'm used to it now. Some guys put poppers on the doors to make it easier. I had enough complications going I skipped that.

Come on over to the Coupe side! Seriously, I'll be very interested to live with it this next season, after driving a Roadster for the past 8-9 seasons. Will have both for now to compare. It's a similar build, but also different in a number of ways.


The car looks really nice Paul! Sorry to see you gone from the other forum.

Jim

Me too. Gave them multiple chances with no luck. Just not worth it. :(

[GashF16]

Paul, what is the powder coat color code (or name) for the color on your sheet metal? It looks like a matte or semigloss charcoal gray, but I'm sure my computer screen is a little off.

[edwardb]

Paul, what is the powder coat color code (or name) for the color on your sheet metal? It looks like a matte or semigloss charcoal gray, but I'm sure my computer screen is a little off.

The powder coat shop I use calls it "IG 90 satin glimmer." Sorry I don't know the mfg name or any more details. I like it a lot. Nice contrast to the black frame. Satin is slightly shiny but not glossy so doesn't get light scratching like gloss powder coat. Used it on my 20th Anniversary Roadster build as well. Was a pretty close match to the color Factory Five used on those frames.

[shark92651]

Paul all of your builds look amazing, but I have to say you have really outdone yourself this time, it's beautiful! You should be really proud of yourself and your coupe.

[edwardb]

Completed almost a page of my final punch list since the last update. Most are minor and don’t warrant any further description or pictures. Just all the details as a build wraps up. Another page to go...

I’ve decided what I’m going to do with the front of the pontoons in the front wheel wells. I’m going to make two pieces to put over those areas plus the exposed part of the lower splash guards. Then spray the same UPOL Raptor I’ve got everywhere else on those pieces plus the tire facing part of the upper splash guards. I’ll provide more details and pictures when completed. Waiting now for a couple pieces of aluminum.

Found out from Factory Five that they don’t have any plans right now to offer floor mats for the Gen 3 Coupe. I’ve found a company that will made custom mats. I’ll provide more details about that later as well. My personal experience is the standard Factory Five carpet holds up just fine in every area except the floors. Some type of floormat or protection is just about mandatory.

Installed the firewall extensions. I’ve been warned it’s critical to get these areas sealed up otherwise hot air from the engine compartment has a direct path into the cockpit. Can definitely see that’s the case. I did change and didn’t use short pieces of bulb seal in a couple places as shown in the instructions. Didn’t feel that it sealed all that well plus looks a little clunky. I used some exterior caulking material instead. Would come apart easily enough should that be necessary.

Another open item is gasket material for the doors. The kit comes with 3/8-inch thick self-adhesive foam that is just right for most of it, and I’ll be using it on the inside of the doors. But one thing I’ve found is that the top front 8-10 inches of the door opening, right below the windshield post, is much deeper than 3/8-inch. Actually increasing to almost 3/4-inch at the top. So the gasket material isn’t going to do anything there, and it’s probably the most vulnerable for wind, noise, and the inevitable rain. Looked at a bunch of other build pictures and also the Coupes in the galleries on Factory Five’s website. Every one I could see resolved by putting nothing there. So still looking at options. Want something that looks reasonably decent. Like it belongs there. I’ll share what I come up with (I hope) but if any other builders solved that one, please show your solution.

On to more successful progress. Installed the H3R Performance HalGuard HG100C 1.4 lb. fire extinguisher bottle between the seats. This is the same one I’ve used on previous builds. Agree it’s small and wouldn’t stop a major fire. It’s there as personal protection and to give time to get out. Obviously, hope it never leaves the mount. This was the best angle to see it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120642&d=1579054273

Installed the wiper wheel boxes and wiper motor. This is the Specialty Power Windows WWK2 Complete Universal Wiper Drive Kit I’ve described previously. Plugged in the power and all works as it should. Check out my cool tie wrap wipers. Just to confirm one last time the proper operation and park directions. Actual wipers will go on once the windshield is installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120644&d=1579054289

Finished the access door on the added trunk box. Used a piece of carpet that I had edged and the hinged aluminum door shown previously. I riveted the hinge to the hatch floor and glued the carpet piece to the front half. The rear half needs to stay loose as the door needs to swing either direction and the carpet has to move. I glued short pieces of plastic harvested from report cover locking spines (yep, Stapes to the rescue) to the underside of the carpet and holds it in place while allowing it to slide. Used a piece of a cut-off seat belt shoulder harness for a handle. The red is an interesting contrast. All-in-all, happy with how this turned out. Do wish it laid a little flatter on the floor, and my next version (?) will probably have some improvements. But this is very workable.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120638&d=1579054215

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120639&d=1579054226

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120640&d=1579054237

Finally for this update, trimmed the Russ Thompson sill pieces since I wrapped the carpet over the corners as previously shown. This is the standard carpet setup, and I prefer it. Once trimmed, decided to put some of my body red paint in the Daytona script Russ cut into the pieces. Liked that OK, but still wasn’t convinced about the “look” with them set in place. Then I decided the real issue was the parts look unfinished. Russ does a nice job and they’re clean and unscratched. But still a standard mill finish, and just didn’t seem to fit in. So spent some time with progressive sanding, wet sanding up to 2000 grit, and then metal polish. All by hand since I don’t have actual polishing tools or compounds for pieces of this type. Not an absolute mirror finish, but not bad. I like the look better, but will decide going forward. I’m going to attach them with foam tape (3M VHB is amazing stuff) so can go either with the plates or the finished paint. I’ll put XPEL over whatever the final choice is.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=120643&d=1579054281

The major remaining step is my windshield. Some of my final steps have been to prepare the opening and now I’m ready. Going to talk to a couple recommended installers and decide whether to let them do it or try it myself. The staging area in my basement for all the remaining parts is starting look pretty bare. That's a very good thing. This weekend we’re having another club event here at our house, similar to last year. A winter cars and coffee and shop talk with the nearly finished Coupe. Looking forward to it.

[jwhit]

everything looking sharpe i hope mine turns out half as well
can you tell me where body is mounted on frame beside
rear brackets
thanks for all you share

[edwardb]

everything looking sharpe i hope mine turns out half as well
can you tell me where body is mounted on frame beside
rear brackets
thanks for all you share

You're welcome. Having fun with the build and have enjoyed sharing. Now ready I think for it to be done. The main body piece is held by the referenced rear brackets (very solid BTW), and hard points along the door openings and the front lower splash guards that tie to the front of the pontoons. Additionally, it is supported by bulb seal on sheet metal on the firewall/instrument panel, cockpit side corners, hatch sides, and hatch rear. All much like the Roadster. Ends up being very rigid once everything is fitted and installed. Also like the Roadster, the hatch, doors, and hood (cowl) are all hinged off hard points on the frame.

[jwhit]

You're welcome. Having fun with the build and have enjoyed sharing. Now ready I think for it to be done. The main body piece is held by the referenced rear brackets (very solid BTW), and hard points along the door openings and the front lower splash guards that tie to the front of the pontoons. Additionally, it is supported by bulb seal on sheet metal on the firewall/instrument panel, cockpit side corners, hatch sides, and hatch rear. All much like the Roadster. Ends up being very rigid once everything is fitted and installed. Also like the Roadster, the hatch, doors, and hood (cowl) are all hinged off hard points on the frame.

so under your door sill plates you have counter sunk screws i guess? my car was shipped with 1 screw on each side at sill and 1 per side on upright where hinges would come thru
not sure if i trust that body was centered on frame and i want be able to find hole sin frame after installing alum i had to slide it back a good 3/16 from where it was with
there self taping screws

[edwardb]

so under your door sill plates you have counter sunk screws i guess? my car was shipped with 1 screw on each side at sill and 1 per side on upright where hinges would come thru
not sure if i trust that body was centered on frame and i want be able to find hole sin frame after installing alum i had to slide it back a good 3/16 from where it was with
there self taping screws

I used three 1/4"-20 low profile screws into nutserts on each side. Only in the sill. They're covered by the carpet and not noticeable. You can see the locations with clecos in the picture below I posted earlier. I filled the holes they put in the body going into the upright. My body ended up slightly away from that, plus didn't want them visible. I wouldn't get too excited about body fit until you're doing everything. Location of the body, hood, doors, all interact and you'll need to work to find the best location for all at the same time. At least that was my experience. My body ended up somewhat close to the Factory Five shipping screw locations, but not exact.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103446&d=1552156205

[Automan]

OMG that's a great Idea on body colour for the inscription. IM definitely gonna use that.

Next Step, Finding a very small brush ans a steady hand lolol

[edwardb]

OMG that's a great Idea on body colour for the inscription. IM definitely gonna use that.

Next Step, Finding a very small brush ans a steady hand lolol

There's actually an easier and simpler way. Since the script is cut sharp and clean (CNC per Russ) I used the following process: With a 1/2-inch artists brush, brushed around the lines of the lettering making sure to get coverage in the cut-out. Didn't get crazy with excess paint outside the lines on top, but didn't worry too much about it either. Once all filled, held a small piece of rag tightly on a piece of paint stick (anything else flat would work too) and wet the rag with a little lacquer thinner. Then swiped across the lettering with one pass. Used a clean piece of rag and the same process 4-5 times and all was clean and the lettering perfectly filled.

Note this is the opposite process of what the painter did on my customized engine cover. Notice how the raised lines on the extensions and the "Powered by Ford" and raised lines are perfectly white? I too commented about his steady hand, thinking he did it with a pin-striping brush or something. No, he sprayed the cover white all over. Let it dry overnight. Then sprayed it red all over. Let the red tack a little, then again with a rag, stick, and a little solvent, wiped the red raised lines and lettering. Exposing the white underneath. Then cleared over the whole thing. Turned out perfect. Said he's followed the process a number of times. Kind of the inspiration for how I did the sills.

[edwardb]

Another week and more items off the list. Lost some time this week since winter decided to finally arrive in Michigan. Caused the club Coupe and Coffee event we had planned at our place to be delayed a week. Will try again this coming Saturday. Spent the time shoveling snow instead. Well, full disclosure, mostly hanging onto the snowblower. I was hoping to have some progress to report on my windshield, since that’s the biggest single task yet to complete, and a couple things are dependent on it, e.g. wipers, center mirror, etc. After playing with it for a while, trial fitting, etc. have pretty much decided I want a pro to do it. Waiting for a call back from a company recommended by a build buddy. Hopefully will have something in my next update. Did receive some good news. My application to the Detroit Autorama was accepted. I’m in! Now the pressure’s really on to get this thing done. But with a month to go, expect to easily make it.

On to actual updates, although relatively minor (again). I mentioned in the last update about door gaskets. Not necessarily going for DD look and all weather seal. But want them to actually do what they’re supposed to do and look like they belong. Nothing screams "kit car" like haphazardly applied trim IMO. First issue was the very large drop-off in the flange at the front top of the doors discussed previously. I tried a bunch of things. But nothing was better than stacking two layers of the supplied 3/8” thick by 5/8” wide D-tube. Was only required at the top, so tapered down to a single layer for the rest. That piece applied to the body. Then another small piece on the underside of the door to finish the seal right at the top. Pretty much not visible. Looks reasonably OK and does the job. My door gaps came out a little wider than I would have liked. If they were tighter, the situation might better. But to be honest, not sure how much. Anyway, done. What I described is visible in this photo of the LH side. RH is the same.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121046&d=1579633030

For the rest of the doors, I put the same 3/8” thick by 5/8” wide D-tube on the inside lips of the doors, set back about 1/4" or so from the edges. Called it done until I tried to close the doors. One side wouldn’t latch all the way. The other would but only if closed hard, and then the door handle was difficult to pull. Neither acceptable. Played around with what materials I had without success. Then spent time looking at other options, including McMaster and Steele Rubber Products. It was late, so gave up. Next morning it hit me that the inside of the doors and body openings both taper away from the edge somewhat, so if I set the 3/8” thick by 5/8” wide D-tube back from the edge the right amount, that would work. In hindsight, an obvious solution (no comments please) but needed a good night’s rest for me to think of it. So experimented with small pieces of the D-tube and strips of paper to find the right location around the perimeter for the D-tube to compress and seal but not too much. Marked with tape, applied the D-tube, and success. Doors open and close nicely with a reassuring thunk and are basically sealed. Never will be completely sealed with that sliding side window. But I'm satisfied with how it turned out. Note it’s slightly different from side-to-side. Hopefully this is helpful to other Coupe builders. I don’t recall the door seal being mentioned in the manual. If it is, certainly not to this detail.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121043&d=1579633008

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121044&d=1579633014

I fabricated the added front lower splash guards I mentioned in my last update out of the usual .040" 6061 aluminum. In hindsight, maybe could have done things differently earlier in the build. But this is where I’m at now. If built like the instructions, which mine is, the front of the pontoons are directly behind the front wheels and will get hammered. As some have suggested, putting the kit lower aluminum pieces in front of the pontoons would help. But I found when fitting the body that getting the pontoons into the right locations and locked there was critical to the body fitting. Specifically the alignment of the hood to the pontoons. So I attached them to the back. That leaves the pontoons exposed, along with the rest of the aluminum pieces above them. Now I want to add the same UPOL Raptor undercoat I've used everywhere else. But I really don’t want to mask as much as would be needed, plus I don’t want to spray what’s already been painted. So made these two pieces that will fit over what’s there. Before final attachment, I’ll spray with the Raptor, leaving the paint covered but untouched. They’ll still be removable should I need to renew the undercoat at some point. The upper splash guard, attached to the hood, interlocks into this area forming the complete splash guard. I'll be adding UPOL Raptor on those pieces as well before I finally attach them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121048&d=1579633044

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121047&d=1579633037

Finally, one other small detail. The rear vent grilles. Look away right now if you don’t want to see extreme OCD. When the pressed grill pieces are trimmed for fitting into the openings, it leaves dozens of little spikey ends that I really didn’t want scraping around in my new paint. Plus wasn't super excited with how unfinished that looked. So split some 7/32” vacuum hose and put around the perimeter. Ends up solidly in place, but added some instant glue to make sure. Briefly considered gluing in place on the body with something non-destructive like clear RTV. But decided that was a bad idea for several reasons. Used two screws as shown in the instructions and as others have done. The black border looks a little cleaner IMO. But my guess is this isn’t for everyone. Might think about blacking out the grille area on the white side. But leaving it like this for now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121042&d=1579633001

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121045&d=1579633022

Ordered custom floor mats. Should have those in a couple weeks. Will report back. Also ordered parts needed to resolve the Gen 3 Coyote oil pressure sensor open issue. Onward.

[edwardb]

Today we had our club event with 20+ club members checking out the Coupe build. Good time sharing and lots of interest. Of course they had to see/hear it start. Hadn't been run since coming back from paint in early December. But the Gen 3 Coyote of course lit right off. After everyone left, decided to start it back up and let it run to temperature since it's not the best to start an engine and let it run only briefly. Let it go all the way until the cooling fan started, thermostat opened, etc. Checked the heater. Working. Checked for leaks. None. While waiting, walked around with my phone and took this video. Nothing exciting at all but this is the first time I've recorded the production Gas-N pipes. Mellow and not too loud. Very nice. RPM was in the 750 - 800 range. As you walk by the rear RH corner, you can hear the whine of the fuel pump pretty clearly. Also in the video you can briefly see my mocked up windshield and the pieces of tape making sure it won't fall out. Which it wouldn't anyway, but can't be too careful. There have been a couple developments with that, which I'll provide in my next update. That and the wiper arms, washers, and rear view mirror are literally the only things left on my list.

https://youtu.be/FHpB6L5VUa0

[jeffgrice]

Thanks for hosting Paul!! Great time had by all. Here are some pictures for those who could not attend - click here. (https://greatlakescobraclub.com/photo-gallery/)

Jeff

[jwhit]

beautiful car and great job
thanks for sharing

[coach36]

Drove to the shop today and brought the Coupe home. First time out for the new SE and worked great. The Coupe actually fits. Snowing off and on, and the coldest day of the year so far with the wind chill. But we got it done. Huge thanks to my friend Greg for keeping me company and lending a hand. The Coyote started right up after sitting there for two months (big surprise) and had no issues driving it in and back out of the trailer. Needless to say, I’m really pleased with the paint. Should be since a Coupe isn’t cheap to paint as I’ve now found out. Especially to this level. But it’s done and that’s behind me. It’s a little dusty but not terrible. Tomorrow will get it up on the lift, cleaned up a bit, and start final assembly. Need to get it far enough along to take some decent pictures for my Autorama submission. Then completely done by the end of February for the show. After that, will start the title and registration process so it’s ready to drive by spring.

First couple pictures are at the shop. Bolted on the prototype side pipes back and put the nose back on. First time it had been together since early body work. Drew its first crowd. Looks amazing. Leaving the doors off until the interior is done. Way easier to work on plus helps prevents any damage.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118834&d=1576124579

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118833&d=1576124571

Couple hours later, unloaded and safely back in the home shop. The sun was shining a bit when we loaded it onto the trailer. The color looks a little brighter and really pops in the sun. These pictures in general are a bit darker than it looks in natural light and especially in the sun. But you get the idea. The engine cover turned out great and does the best it can to clean up that busy Gen 3 Coyote engine compartment.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118835&d=1576124586

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118836&d=1576124594

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118837&d=1576124603

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=118838&d=1576124611

Tomorrow will start digging in.

How did you make that gen 3 engine shroud?

[P100DHG]

Might think about blacking out the grille area on the white side

Maybe consider the matte black vinyl wrap. Peels right off if you don’t like the result. Might want to consider doing both sides to match.

It’s all coming down to the details. Congratulations looking really good.

[edwardb]

How did you make that gen 3 engine shroud?

Discussed and shown in an earlier post in this thread. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Walkaround-Video-at-Idle&p=371325&viewfull=1#post371325. I know, this book needs a table of contents. Maybe add that at some point.


Maybe consider the matte black vinyl wrap. Peels right off if you don’t like the result. Might want to consider doing both sides to match.

It’s all coming down to the details. Congratulations looking really good.

Thanks. Good suggestion. I'm thinking I want to black them out. But was hesitating to use paint. I'll play around with something less permanent and see how that turns out.

[edwardb]

Huge day today. I’ve been sweating about the windshield installation for some time. Now can say it’s basically done. I’ve been reading every build thread and post I could find trying to learn about installing the windshield in the Coupe since I’ve not done anything like that before. Several had some excellent detail, so thanks if you were one of them. Plus watched a bunch of YouTube videos. But then I got cold feet so thought I would go for a pro installation. Had a couple referrals but they didn’t want to do it. So, then I went back into DIY mode and decided I’d give it a try. Ordered up the needed materials and started prepping. Then last Saturday we had the club Cars and Coffee here at our house. I told my windshield story, and one of the club members approached me after the event and said he wanted to help. Retired now, but in his past life worked many years for a major chemical company and with OE’s and glass. He came back last Monday with a colleague who has also been doing this for many years. Is that perfect or what? Talked through the details, gave me some homework, they came back today, and it’s done. With a lot of coaching, I did some of the work. But experience counts for details like laying down the urethane bead, etc. Huge relief and I can’t thank them enough. Yeah, I probably could have done it myself. But I’m positive it wouldn’t have turned out so well and would have been much more stressful to say the least. Took a number of pictures so will caption them describing what we did.

The Coupe build manual recommends a 1-inch frit (black border) on the top and sides, and 2-inches along the bottom of the windshield. So after thoroughly cleaning the glass, used 1/2-inch 3M Fine Line to mask for this and an additional 1-inch of plain masking tape for sloppy painters like me. I had done some testing beforehand and found the Fine Line work great with the black primer material and left a perfectly sharp line.

After trying it both ways, decided I strongly preferred the trim around the edge versus no trim. Expecting that, I had previously ordered and received 15 feet of 19mm UM1913BR Flexline Windshield Auto Glass Universal Trim Rubber from Amazon. Recommended in other threads. So next up installed the trim. Takes some work to get it to fit over the glass, and has some adhesive inside that gets a little messy. But not too hard. It easily went around the large curves. I used just a bit of heat from a heat gun on the sharper curves at the top and it went on smoothly with no puckers. Looked great. One hint. I was going to do the black frit first, and then put on the trim. My guys said put the trim on first. Great advice.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121726&d=1580441170

Next up was prepping the opening on the body. This is where I though it got a little interesting. I was concerned (and a little skeptical) about the black frit and whether it would really stick to the glass. My coaches said just the opposite. Whatever chemicals are in the primer and the chemical properties of the glass said that was a total non-issue. The bigger issue was the body. They said the majority of failures they have are not sticking to the paint or the paint delaminating. So for them, body prep was very important. After some discussion, we decided I should abrade the paint where the primer and adhesive would be applied. Settled on 220 grit. So did that, added masking for protection, and covered the top of the dash. Hurt to be sanding on my paint, but kept reminding myself it would be buried. And it is.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121725&d=1580441162

That was my homework. Today we went for it. After another round of cleaning with the proper materials (cleanliness is critical) and one last push down on the tape, brushed a coat of primer on the body and three coats on the glass with daubers. Let it dry 15 minutes between coats and pulled the tape after 15 minutes. Had a couple of real tiny spots to clean up on the windshield, but mostly came out sharp and perfect.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121739&d=1580442427

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121729&d=1580441200

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121730&d=1580441211

Now time to set the glass. We had already determined the top and sides required a slightly larger bead of adhesive than the bottom. So had two different tips ready with the V-cut that glass installers use. The urethane was applied with a power caulking gun which gives a solid and clean bead. Little bit of tooling where it was necessary to stop and start. I was watching during this step.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121731&d=1580441221

Then in with the prepped windshield. We had dry fit it previously, so knew if would fit OK. Once in place, pushed down firmly all around the perimeter. As I saw in another build thread, used some blocks wrapped with towels and straps to hold it in place. The windshield did need to be pulled down slightly on the ends. But not a lot or as much as some others have described. In the 1/8 to 1/4-inch range. Easily set without a lot of tension on the straps.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121732&d=1580441229

[edwardb]

Had just a slight amount of squeeze out on the inside in a couple places, so cleaned that up. It turned out great. What a relief. They recommended leaving the straps for several days, so obviously that’s what I’ll do. You can see from this close-up that it fit very nicely and the trim lays down well. Including around the wipers. Note this particular trim is relatively flat and not rounded like the trim used on the side windows. The build manual says that no trim is a little more of a modern look. Which it is. Like the hatch glass. But the edges of the provided windshield aren't polished plus the gaps on mine were different on the ends versus the top and bottom. So for me, the trim is a much better look. Doesn't look out of place at all IMO.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121733&d=1580441237

I’m stoked how cool the car looks on the ground at ride height (first time for a while) and now with the finished look of the windshield. Really getting close now. Also the first time to get some decent pics of the new installed side pipes without the lift towers in the way. (With my riding mower and snowblower photobombing in the reflection.)

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121727&d=1580441180

One last detail. I mentioned a few updates ago that Factory Five isn’t offering custom fitted floor mats for the Gen 3 Coupe. So after a little Google searching, found a company that will make custom mats from your supplied patterns. I think it’s OK to give details because (a) I’m not selling for them, (b) not aware any forum vendors offer such a service. https://www.floormatguys.com/ is the place. Contacted them and they had me make paper patterns and send. Received the finished floor mats a couple days ago and they look and fit great. They’re 28 oz nylon with a ribbed back and black serged yarn on the perimeter. They’ll do other colors, embroidery, heel pads, etc., but I kept it real simple. About $100 including shipping. This picture isn’t great but gives the idea.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121724&d=1580441151

Starting working on my show signs for Autorama. One month away now and just a few things left on the actual build.

[wareaglescott]

Looks great Paul. Interesting to hear the steps of getting the glass in.
I cant remember but have you already done the alignment? Do you plan to do it yourself it not?

[edwardb]

Looks great Paul. Interesting to hear the steps of getting the glass in.
I cant remember but have you already done the alignment? Do you plan to do it yourself it not?

Thanks Scott. Yes, I have the tools to do my own alignments. Longacre digital caster/camber gauge, toe plates and laser level instead of using string. Got it dialed in before the body was on. I'll check it one more time before driving season starts now that it's done and I've tweaked the ride height a couple times. But I expect it's very close right now.

[jdavis500]

Soaking in all the details. You set the bar very high!

[jwhit]

Huge day today. I’ve been sweating about the windshield installation for some time. Now can say it’s basically done. I’ve been reading every build thread and post I could find trying to learn about installing the windshield in the Coupe since I’ve not done anything like that before. Several had some excellent detail, so thanks if you were one of them. Plus watched a bunch of YouTube videos. But then I got cold feet so thought I would go for a pro installation. Had a couple referrals but they didn’t want to do it. So, then I went back into DIY mode and decided I’d give it a try. Ordered up the needed materials and started prepping. Then last Saturday we had the club Cars and Coffee here at our house. I told my windshield story, and one of the club members approached me after the event and said he wanted to help. Retired now, but in his past life worked many years for a major chemical company and with OE’s and glass. He came back last Monday with a colleague who has also been doing this for many years. Is that perfect or what? Talked through the details, gave me some homework, they came back today, and it’s done. With a lot of coaching, I did some of the work. But experience counts for details like laying down the urethane bead, etc. Huge relief and I can’t thank them enough. Yeah, I probably could have done it myself. But I’m positive it wouldn’t have turned out so well and would have been much more stressful to say the least. Took a number of pictures so will caption them describing what we did.

The Coupe build manual recommends a 1-inch frit (black border) on the top and sides, and 2-inches along the bottom of the windshield. So after thoroughly cleaning the glass, used 1/2-inch 3M Fine Line to mask for this and an additional 1-inch of plain masking tape for sloppy painters like me. I had done some testing beforehand and found the Fine Line work great with the black primer material and left a perfectly sharp line.

After trying it both ways, decided I strongly preferred the trim around the edge versus no trim. Expecting that, I had previously ordered and received 15 feet of 19mm UM1913BR Flexline Windshield Auto Glass Universal Trim Rubber from Amazon. Recommended in other threads. So next up installed the trim. Takes some work to get it to fit over the glass, and has some adhesive inside that gets a little messy. But not too hard. It easily went around the large curves. I used just a bit of heat from a heat gun on the sharper curves at the top and it went on smoothly with no puckers. Looked great. One hint. I was going to do the black frit first, and then put on the trim. My guys said put the trim on first. Great advice.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121726&d=1580441170

Next up was prepping the opening on the body. This is where I though it got a little interesting. I was concerned (and a little skeptical) about the black frit and whether it would really stick to the glass. My coaches said just the opposite. Whatever chemicals are in the primer and the chemical properties of the glass said that was a total non-issue. The bigger issue was the body. They said the majority of failures they have are not sticking to the paint or the paint delaminating. So for them, body prep was very important. After some discussion, we decided I should abrade the paint where the primer and adhesive would be applied. Settled on 220 grit. So did that, added masking for protection, and covered the top of the dash. Hurt to be sanding on my paint, but kept reminding myself it would be buried. And it is.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121725&d=1580441162

That was my homework. Today we went for it. After another round of cleaning with the proper materials (cleanliness is critical) and one last push down on the tape, brushed a coat of primer on the body and three coats on the glass with daubers. Let it dry 15 minutes between coats and pulled the tape after 15 minutes. Had a couple of real tiny spots to clean up on the windshield, but mostly came out sharp and perfect.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121739&d=1580442427

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121729&d=1580441200

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121730&d=1580441211

Now time to set the glass. We had already determined the top and sides required a slightly larger bead of adhesive than the bottom. So had two different tips ready with the V-cut that glass installers use. The urethane was applied with a power caulking gun which gives a solid and clean bead. Little bit of tooling where it was necessary to stop and start. I was watching during this step.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121731&d=1580441221

Then in with the prepped windshield. We had dry fit it previously, so knew if would fit OK. Once in place, pushed down firmly all around the perimeter. As I saw in another build thread, used some blocks wrapped with towels and straps to hold it in place. The windshield did need to be pulled down slightly on the ends. But not a lot or as much as some others have described. In the 1/8 to 1/4-inch range. Easily set without a lot of tension on the straps.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121732&d=1580441229

that turned out great looking ,what brand black frit did you use and where did you buy? thanks as always for sharing

[DadofThree]

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121727&d=1580441180



I am CONSTANTLY STUNNED by how beautifully your builds are put together. Absolutely Incredible!

[edwardb]

that turned out great looking ,what brand black frit did you use and where did you buy? thanks as always for sharing

You're welcome. Enjoy sharing, especially when the outcome is good! I knew that question would come up. This installation was all done with Dow products. The black frit material is Black Betaprime 5504G. Adhesive is Betaseal Xpress. Both available on Amazon. Perhaps elsewhere. I've seen several other builds done with 3M products, which I'm sure is fine too. This was the brand my guys wanted to use. Whatever you do, use the same mfg for the black frit/primer and adhesive. And study their documentation for proper use and materials for cleaning the glass. Mentioned in my write-up, but I was also especially interested to see how the nozzle was cut to get the proper bead. And the use of a powered caulk gun. Lots of videos on YouTube showing both.

[shark92651]

That looks great Paul. I assume cracked windshields on the coupe are much less prevalent than the roadster.

[edwardb]

That looks great Paul. I assume cracked windshields on the coupe are much less prevalent than the roadster.

Thanks. Boy I hope so. Haven't heard or seen of any issues with the Coupe.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Maybe that's because fewer Coupes have the windshields installed incorrectly.

Go ahead guys, flame away :p

Jeff

[RR20AC]

Amazing build Paul. Good luck at the show. No cracks yet for me and car is running great now. Can't wait for some driving and drone videos. Jim

[Nigel Allen]

Maybe that's because fewer Coupes have the windshields installed incorrectly.

Go ahead guys, flame away :p

Jeff

G'day Jeff,

I'll bite. Are you able to point me in the direction of the correct way to install a roadster windscreen? Mine hasn't cracked (although I have a nice stone chip) in the 12months on the road. However with freight prices and current exchange rate, a new windscreen glass is likely to cost about a grand... Any anti crack (windscreen that is) tips would be greatly received.

Cheers, Nigel in South Oz.

[edwardb]

G'day Jeff,

I'll bite. Are you able to point me in the direction of the correct way to install a roadster windscreen? Mine hasn't cracked (although I have a nice stone chip) in the 12months on the road. However with freight prices and current exchange rate, a new windscreen glass is likely to cost about a grand... Any anti crack (windscreen that is) tips would be greatly received.

Cheers, Nigel in South Oz.

I'll respond and hopefully keep the build thread on track. This is a thread I started last year when I joined the broken Roadster windshield club. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?32570-Another-Broken-Windshield-Thread. Tells about my experience, a bunch of people weighed in, and has links to other threads on the topic. Digest that and you'll probably get most of the thoughts on the subject. My take is clearly they can be installed improperly. Mainly by installing in a way that puts stress on them via the side arms. But that was categorically not the case with mine (more details in the linked thread) yet it still broke. While sitting in the garage unattended, which is an somewhat common story. Lots of theories. Some common themes. But no single failure mode. If my Roadster windshield breaks again, it will be getting plastic. Local club member (also in the linked thread) just finished his and it looks great. Hope that helps, and for whatever it's worth, you don't have to join the club. It's not very exclusive. :p

[Jeff Kleiner]

...you don't have to join the club. It's not very exclusive. :p

I don’t know about that...I’ve attempted to become a member almost 30 times and still haven’t been accepted or taught the secret handshake!

Now, back to Paul’s build :)

Jeff

[jeffgrice]

Looks great Paul!!!

[G-Pete]

Paul, question: what is the distance between the windshield and the body using the UM1913BR Flexline Windshield Rubber? The reason I ask is, with the windshield resting against with the flat side there is no play up down or left to right. Doubtful that the glass with the rubber fits.
As more distant from the body as more is the play.
Thanks

[edwardb]

Paul, question: what is the distance between the windshield and the body using the UM1913BR Flexline Windshield Rubber? The reason I ask is, with the windshield resting against with the flat side there is no play up down or left to right. Doubtful that the glass with the rubber fits.
As more distant from the body as more is the play.
Thanks

The Flexline trim gasket material section that's between the edge of the glass and the body measures .100". Then there's a bead of adhesive type material. Butyl maybe? Sticky and gummy. I would say you need about 1/8-inch clearance to fit properly. It would compress to slightly less, but that's what I aimed for. I checked the fit of my windshield before the body went to paint. I had to do some sanding on the body opening along the top. To straighten it plus give the 1/8-inch clearance. I wasn't sure at that point if I was going to use the trim gasket, but wanted to have the option plus have it look straight if I didn't. The ends had about 3/16-inch clearance without doing anything. That's all with the glass shimmed out to be flush with the body, which is roughly where it ends up when finished. FWIW, the glass can be trimmed if it comes to that. Not DIY (at least I wouldn't recommend it...) but pros have the tools and processes and know how to do it.

[G-Pete]

Thanks Paul, I really like the idea to trim the glass and beforehand order the rubber to guide the glass guy how much to trim.

Keep up your good work and c-ya maybe next year at the Texas Cobra Spring Meet.

[CTHiker52]

Paul, awesomely beautiful. Thanks for sharing your ideas, techniques, and insights I have learned a great deal. Good luck at the show.

Gary

[cgundermann]

Been away from the Forum for a bit and just got caught up with your build. Absolutely stunning Paul and as usual, you have set the bar high for craftsmanship, ingenuity and a commitment for documenting your build for everyone. Getting anxious to pull the trigger on a coupe build...

Chris

[Automan]

Hey Paul, Where did you locate the split for the rubber trim. On the center in the top or the center in the bottom between the wipers. I cant tell its so nicely done.

Nelson

[edwardb]

Hey Paul, Where did you locate the split for the rubber trim. On the center in the top or the center in the bottom between the wipers. I cant tell its so nicely done.

Nelson

Bottom center. Less noticeable than the top and better for sealing if that matters. At least that was my thinking. Started with a clean straight cut. Then installed all the way around and made another clean straight cut leaving it just slightly long. Not a lot, but a little to compress the joint just a bit. Got lucky and turned out pretty well. Used the same technique on the side window molding.

[edwardb]

Big day today. I literally crossed off the last items from my punch list. I’ll take one last pass at detailing under the hood for Autorama (still finding remnants from the time at the paint shop…) and probably smear some wax on the body. Then when the weather warms up, need to charge the A/C. Planning to have another learning experience with that. But I have nothing else on my list and no leftover parts in the basement. My plan is to take a bunch of pictures and probably a walkaround video at Autorama. Then will close out this build thread. I’ll start the title and license process after that, and it should be ready to drive when the weather changes. Looking outside at the snow coming down right now, seems that could be a while. But the time will come. So, here are some of the final details completed.

No pictures, but I noticed not long after receiving them that the acrylic in the side windows had rough unfinished edges. Looks like cut with a router or CNC and pretty much left as is. Aside from appearance, some edges were dangerously sharp. So took each one apart, sanded and polished the edges of everything including the openings, and put back together. Used 600, 1000 and 1500 grit paper, then plastic polish. Didn’t get crazy but broke the edges while using the 1000 and 1500 paper. Looks much better, not going to hurt anyone, and the windows glide open and closed effortlessly. Nice. A recommended detail for others.

While under the car tweaking the front coilovers and ride height just slightly, noticed that the upper radiator hose was contacting the KRC water pump pulley. The KRC power steering kit includes a new water pump pulley that replaces the stock one. Drives the added belt for the power steering pump. Others have reported that the underside of this extended pulley hits the upper radiator hose where it leaves the engine. My Roadster with the same setup is close but doesn't touch. This one however was making a mark in the hose fitting. Did a search and found several possible solutions. The connection is keyed with a push on fitting. The solution I liked was to cut a new slot for the key so that the hose rotated slightly. Used a 1/8-inch burr in my Dremel, cut a new slot about 3/8-inch away from the existing one (it doesn’t take much) and pushed back together keying on the new slot. Rotated the hose enough that now I have about 1/4-inch clearance. Took all of 15-20 minutes and a perfect solution. Didn't even lose or drip any coolant. So, thanks to the forum and forum member who posted.

After staring at them for a few weeks now, decided I wanted to black out behind the rear grilles. The red side wasn’t bad. But the white side just stood out and reminded me (and maybe everyone else) that these are fake. I really didn’t want to paint. But someone suggested using black vinyl and that was a great idea. Just happened to have some on hand left over from the #8674 build. I did paint the heads of the body mounting bolts black as the vinyl wouldn’t have gone over them very neatly. Then cut vinyl pieces that were the same size as the grilles, cut holes for the mounting bolts, and wet applied the vinyl. It’s subtle but I like the difference.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122074&d=1581028223\

With the windshield installed, time for wipers and washers to be finalized. Washers were simple enough. Installed the nozzles, hooked up the hoses, and sprayed enough to get the nozzles adjusted. The ones I used, shown earlier, have little swivel balls on the nozzles. So stuck a needle in the holes and tweaked to where they hit the center of the windshield. All good. Hope my safety inspector appreciates the effort with those. Don't expect to actually use much. For the wipers, checked to confirm the 120-degree sweep I had set up when installing the Specialty Power Windows WWK-2 wiper kit. As luck would have it, too much. Took three times in and out with the wiper system to get it right. Could have been only once because I determined the right 110 degree new sweep angle. But didn’t follow the directions correctly the first two times for how to set it. Good grief. With that fixed, snapped on the wipers after putting some rattle can satin black on the arms. They came an industrial grey that wouldn’t have quite fit my color scheme. I used ANCO 44-01 Adjustable Wiper Arms and ANCO 5215 15-inch 52-Series Clear-Flex wiper blades. I found these referenced on a pretty old build on the other forum and they worked well. The 15-inch blades give a nice sweep of the windshield, although the outside tip of the passenger side isn’t quite flat when parked. But no big deal. The arms adjust in length as well as the angle of the blade. So, it’s possible to get them decently lined up. My whole wiper and washer system, with the Cole Hersee 75600-04 switch, which integrates the washer, provides an intermittent function as well as two speeds and works well. Very happy with it. The only thing missing compared to a DD is automatic rain sensing. I think I have that personally covered. :rolleyes:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122078&d=1581028255

Also, now with the windshield installed, mounted the center rear view mirror. I chose to use a windshield mounted mirror versus a roll bar mount like some. Discussed previously. But I wanted one with a bit wider angle than the one provided in the kit. So, picked up a Brandmotion 9002-9701 Infinity manual dimming mirror. Very nice piece. I thought about extending the black border on the windshield down to where it would attach. That would be more OE looking. But that needed to done while doing the rest of the border and wasn’t exactly sure where the right location would be. Plus, really didn’t want to trust gluing that little button to the black painted on frit material. So, now with the windshield installed and after determining the best location, glued the button directly to the glass with the provided Loctite adhesive kit. You can see the silver button in the picture above. That’s how it’s going to be. Here’s a picture of it installed. I tried to take the picture to show what you can see out the back. It’s a pretty narrow opening. But with the two side mirrors plus this, it’s about as good as it’s going to get. Doesn’t look like it, but the mirror is well in front of the roll bar and a pretty natural feeling location.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122076&d=1581028237

Mounted the Factory Five nameplate on the driver’s side footbox. Must be almost done now.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122075&d=1581028230

So, my final update is about the Gen 3 Coyote. Earlier I mentioned (maybe a couple times) that the Gen 3 Coyote needs to have the OE oil pressure sensor installed. Otherwise the system starts throwing error codes (DTC’s). This is different than the Gen 2 where the OE sensor could be removed and replaced with the aftermarket sensor for the gauge. Also different than what Ford Performance told me when I first asked. Grrr. Although if you call and ask now they will say the OE sensor has to be there. Factory Five will tell you the same thing. Sometimes it hurts a little to be early in the game. The solution is to either modify the PCM calibration, which some have done. Or install a T fitting so both the OE and aftermarket sensor are in the circuit. I’ve been stalling on this one because I kind of made a mess of things. When I installed my Gen 3 Coyote, I found that Ford had changed the oil pressure sensor from NPT to M12x1.5 threads. The Speedhut oil pressure sensor is 1/8 NPT. So, thinking a metric to NPT adapter wouldn’t be easy to find, I removed the JR3Z-6881-A oil filter and oil pressure sender housing from the block (pretty easy, just four bolts) and tapped the metric hole to 1/4 NPT. Then used a 1/4 to 1/8 NPT adapter I had on hand and installed the Speedhut sensor. Thought I was being clever. But in hindsight was an incredibly dumb thing to do. Turns out the proper metric to NPT adapter is widely available. Just had to look, which I didn’t. Then when I ran the engine without the OE sensor started to get the error codes and the rest is history. So fast forward to now. Decided that rather than messing with the housing that I butchered I bought a new one. What’s another $100+ part at this point, right? Installed it the other day and started looking at options for a T fitting and the two sensors. Also talked to a couple other builders to see what they had done. I tried to keep it as simple as possible. Found a fitting on eBay that was M12x1.5 threads on each end (one male, one female) with a 1/8 NPT tap in the side. Perfect. But the 1/8 NPT was too close to the block to fit the large Speedhut sensor. So used a 1/8 NPT female to male 45-degree fitting from Summit. Today put things together and it worked. It’s a tight fight, and a little fiddly to get the angles right. Sanded on a crush washer to get the large fitting to clock into the right position. But now it’s installed. Cleared the codes. Ran my engine multiple times. No leaks. No codes. I hope this is fixed. This is what I installed. Speedhut sensor is the one at the top. The OE (smaller) one at the bottom.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122073&d=1581028184

Final comment on the oil pressure situation. I’m seeing where Speedhut has changed their latest oil pressure gauges to a 3-wire voltage output sensor versus this larger 2-wire resistive sensor they’ve been using for some time. These sensors don’t have the best reliability record, so I’m guessing that’s why the change. But my gauges are a couple years old now so aren’t this newer type. The solution might be different for those with newer gauges and a different sensor.

That’s it! My next update will be from the show in a couple weeks.

[Higgybulin]

Looks great Paul, can't wait to come by and see it in person!!!

[Alphamacaroon]

Quick question edwardb: I know you went with rear wheel spacers (I went with the same you bought), but did you end up putting spacers on the front? Now that my hood is mounted it really feels like the front could use some as well. Or will that screw with the steering geometry?

[edwardb]

Quick question edwardb: I know you went with rear wheel spacers (I went with the same you bought), but did you end up putting spacers on the front? Now that my hood is mounted it really feels like the front could use some as well. Or will that screw with the steering geometry?

No, I didn't put wheel spacers in the front and have no plans to do so. I'm fine with how it looks. I don't claim to know how it might affect the steering, but a quick Google search says that's a legitimate concern. I have 275 tires on the front, which maybe fill out the opening better than the often used 245 or 255's.

[CTHiker52]

Paul. the car looks great. I can't wait to see your finished pictures. I would like to see it in person but I can't make it to the Autorama show.
Gary

[David Williamson]

Awsome job again. You get somany small details just right.
David W

[ynsinCA]

WOW! Very inspiring and thanks so much for all the details of the build.

[edwardb]

I said no updates until Autorama. But was inspired to make an addition to my build, so will share. One of my minor regrets with the build was not installing a quick release steering wheel. Saw where some installed them but didn’t put it in my plan as I didn't think I needed it. After getting the build far enough long to truly experience climbing in out, was sorry I didn’t pursue. Not a huge deal necessarily. But the steering wheel definitely is in the way. Was reminded of that every time I climbed in and out on the passenger side. But by then I was fully committed to the Russ Thompson turn signal setup, the steering column was installed, and the interior basically finished. I know some have worked with Russ to have something compatible with his setup, but I was a little late and didn’t want to start taking things apart (again…). Plus, every solution I’ve seen involved welding on the steering column. I don’t weld.

So fast forward to a week or so ago when another forum member posted a quick release setup that didn’t require welding or cutting the steering column and played OK with the standard Russ Thompson turn signal. Interesting! https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?34975-Quick-Release-Russ-Thompson-turn-signal. With a couple weeks until the show have time to do something. After studying and asking some questions, decided to go for it. The part used is an NRG SRK-400 “thin” quick disconnect. Comes in various colors. I chose the SRK-400CF carbon fiber version which goes along with the CF trim I have in the cockpit. Found one in stock on eBay. Ordered on Monday, had it on Wednesday. Today it’s installed. What a nice upgrade. Totally happy with how it turned out. It’s kinda sorta a bolt on. But some modifications are required. I wouldn’t say it’s hard. But does require some precision and care and probably best to at least have a drill press. So proceed accordingly. I’ll go through each major step.

First is the part that attaches to the steering wheel adapter and stays on the column when you remove the wheel. Remove the horn switch. Two screws. Then it’s necessary to cut the back of it completely off. It’s too large to fit into the steering wheel adapter. I made a little fixture and used my router table to nibble most of it off. Then finished with a Dremel cut-off wheel. The back of the NRG hub needs to be flat where it meets the existing steering wheel hub. Next, the two-piece steering wheel adapter from Russ needs to be bolted together. I drilled new countersinks and used the existing screws, obviously without the steering wheel. Had to shorten the screws slightly. Another perhaps better option would be use countersunk cap screws. Then center the NRG hub, lay out the mounting holes, and drill and tap for 5mm x 0.8. Do it carefully and it’s possible to work around the screws holding the two halves of the adapter together. The NRG logo and open and close markings should be at the top. The metric screws come with the quick release. When done, looks like this. You can see just the edges of the screws holding the two adapter halves together.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122485&d=1581633923

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122486&d=1581633930

Now on to the steering wheel side. Remove the horn switch here also. Two screws. Again, necessary to trim some of the back of the NRG piece as it also runs into the hole in the existing steering wheel adapter when latched together, which is what I did. The shiny ring in the picture below. Or you could trim the hole in the adapter. Then center the piece on the steering wheel and lay out the hole locations, again avoiding the existing holes from the previous adapter. On the NRG piece, you want to use the inner holes, which will keep the new countersunk mounting holes well inside the bezel. Pay very close attention to orientation so the NRG piece puts the top of the steering wheel at the “T” (top) mark that Russ has on the hub when locked in the closed position. You’ll need to get some 5mm x 0.8 flat head screws as these aren’t included. Ace had them. When done, looks like this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122483&d=1581633909

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122484&d=1581633916

Now for installation into the car. You could put the steering wheel adapter assembly right back on the steering column as is and be done. But I was a little concerned about the added distance of the steering wheel away from the dash. NRG’s website says the quick release is 1.25 inches thick. But actually it’s 15/16-inches from surface to surface. So that’s how much it adds. I was OK with that but wondered if I could reduce that some without taking a bunch of stuff apart. Turns out it was easy to take the turn signal mechanism off the mounted tube (a single Allen head set screw holding it) and trim back the tube. Russ has a step in the tube that fits into the turn signal mechanism. He has it longer than it needs to be when delivered. I was able to trim just over 1/2-inch and push the mechanism back to the beginning of the step. That's the maximum I could do without taking more drastic measures. Adjusted the steering column in and installation done with only 7/16-inch of added distance on the steering wheel from the dash. Not noticeable and enjoying how much easier it is to climb in and out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122488&d=1581633945

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122487&d=1581633937

[nuhale]

Looks great! I saw that post too and bought right away for my roadster build. Thanks for keeping such a detailed record to make it easier for the rest of us! As a big guy I was sweating getting in and out of the darn thing.

[CTHiker52]

Thanks Paul for your detailed write-up. I’m 6’ 4” and this is another for the must must have list for my future Coupe build.

[ProJoe]

I am a HUGE fan of NRG products and am thrilled to see them hitting more FFR builds.

a quick release makes life so much easier.

[P100DHG]

I had considered this on my build, Russ drilled and tapped my hub to the Momo bolt pattern and having a Momo steering wheel it seems like it would be a fairly straight forward process of me. But I’m not there yet. Good research thanks for write up.

[jwhit]

I used three 1/4"-20 low profile screws into nutserts on each side. Only in the sill. They're covered by the carpet and not noticeable. You can see the locations with clecos in the picture below I posted earlier. I filled the holes they put in the body going into the upright. My body ended up slightly away from that, plus didn't want them visible. I wouldn't get too excited about body fit until you're doing everything. Location of the body, hood, doors, all interact and you'll need to work to find the best location for all at the same time. At least that was my experience. My body ended up somewhat close to the Factory Five shipping screw locations, but not exact.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=103446&d=1552156205

dumb question how close was body at door sill ,it looks real close to edge i had mine maybe 3/16 to 1/4 off inside edge
but now that im fight door issues if i take bolts out and let body move out where body is 1/2 plus away from inside edge
i think my door would fit without spacers between door and door frame any thoughts?

[edwardb]

dumb question how close was body at door sill ,it looks real close to edge i had mine maybe 3/16 to 1/4 off inside edge
but now that im fight door issues if i take bolts out and let body move out where body is 1/2 plus away from inside edge
i think my door would fit without spacers between door and door frame any thoughts?

If I understand you're question correctly, how close did the inside edge of the body come to the edge of the chassis corner right below it? Where the inside wall of the chassis aluminum is? Mine is pretty close to matching. Initially, almost the same front to back. I did adjust just slightly to get the best match for the outside bottom edge of the doors to the body. But on both sides there's probably no more than 1/8" of difference between the two. No way it's as much as 1/2". Neither my doors or the pontoon to front cowl alignment would have been right if mine was that far away. I'd be very surprised if you're able to get the driver side door to fit without spacers between the door frame and the shell. I've heard from other builders that they did the same thing.

[cgundermann]

I said no updates until Autorama. But was inspired to make an addition to my build, so will share. One of my minor regrets with the build was not installing a quick release steering wheel. Saw where some installed them but didn’t put it in my plan as I didn't think I needed it. After getting the build far enough long to truly experience climbing in out, was sorry I didn’t pursue. Not a huge deal necessarily. But the steering wheel definitely is in the way. Was reminded of that every time I climbed in and out on the passenger side. But by then I was fully committed to the Russ Thompson turn signal setup, the steering column was installed, and the interior basically finished. I know some have worked with Russ to have something compatible with his setup, but I was a little late and didn’t want to start taking things apart (again…). Plus, every solution I’ve seen involved welding on the steering column. I don’t weld.

So fast forward to a week or so ago when another forum member posted a quick release setup that didn’t require welding or cutting the steering column and played OK with the standard Russ Thompson turn signal. Interesting! https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?34975-Quick-Release-Russ-Thompson-turn-signal. With a couple weeks until the show have time to do something. After studying and asking some questions, decided to go for it. The part used is an NRG SRK-400 “thin” quick disconnect. Comes in various colors. I chose the SRK-400CF carbon fiber version which goes along with the CF trim I have in the cockpit. Found one in stock on eBay. Ordered on Monday, had it on Wednesday. Today it’s installed. What a nice upgrade. Totally happy with how it turned out. It’s kinda sorta a bolt on. But some modifications are required. I wouldn’t say it’s hard. But does require some precision and care and probably best to at least have a drill press. So proceed accordingly. I’ll go through each major step.

First is the part that attaches to the steering wheel adapter and stays on the column when you remove the wheel. Remove the horn switch. Two screws. Then it’s necessary to cut the back of it completely off. It’s too large to fit into the steering wheel adapter. I made a little fixture and used my router table to nibble most of it off. Then finished with a Dremel cut-off wheel. The back of the NRG hub needs to be flat where it meets the existing steering wheel hub. Next, the two-piece steering wheel adapter from Russ needs to be bolted together. I drilled new countersinks and used the existing screws, obviously without the steering wheel. Had to shorten the screws slightly. Another perhaps better option would be use countersunk cap screws. Then center the NRG hub, lay out the mounting holes, and drill and tap for 5mm x 0.8. Do it carefully and it’s possible to work around the screws holding the two halves of the adapter together. The NRG logo and open and close markings should be at the top. The metric screws come with the quick release. When done, looks like this. You can see just the edges of the screws holding the two adapter halves together.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122485&d=1581633923

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122486&d=1581633930

Now on to the steering wheel side. Remove the horn switch here also. Two screws. Again, necessary to trim some of the back of the NRG piece as it also runs into the hole in the existing steering wheel adapter when latched together, which is what I did. The shiny ring in the picture below. Or you could trim the hole in the adapter. Then center the piece on the steering wheel and lay out the hole locations, again avoiding the existing holes from the previous adapter. On the NRG piece, you want to use the inner holes, which will keep the new countersunk mounting holes well inside the bezel. Pay very close attention to orientation so the NRG piece puts the top of the steering wheel at the “T” (top) mark that Russ has on the hub when locked in the closed position. You’ll need to get some 5mm x 0.8 flat head screws as these aren’t included. Ace had them. When done, looks like this:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122483&d=1581633909

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122484&d=1581633916

Now for installation into the car. You could put the steering wheel adapter assembly right back on the steering column as is and be done. But I was a little concerned about the added distance of the steering wheel away from the dash. NRG’s website says the quick release is 1.25 inches thick. But actually it’s 15/16-inches from surface to surface. So that’s how much it adds. I was OK with that but wondered if I could reduce that some without taking a bunch of stuff apart. Turns out it was easy to take the turn signal mechanism off the mounted tube (a single Allen head set screw holding it) and trim back the tube. Russ has a step in the tube that fits into the turn signal mechanism. He has it longer than it needs to be when delivered. I was able to trim just over 1/2-inch and push the mechanism back to the beginning of the step. That's the maximum I could do without taking more drastic measures. Adjusted the steering column in and installation done with only 7/16-inch of added distance on the steering wheel from the dash. Not noticeable and enjoying how much easier it is to climb in and out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122488&d=1581633945

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=122487&d=1581633937

Paul ~

Without the RF hub (standard FFR steering) any issues with installing? Looks like the bolt pattern is slightly different from the FFR steering wheel, so still re-drill?

Thanks, Chris

[Erik W. Treves]

the FFR Moto-Lita pattern will require redrill if you go anything other than the standard FFR installation method.

[edwardb]

Paul ~ Without the RF hub (standard FFR steering) any issues with installing? Looks like the bolt pattern is slightly different from the FFR steering wheel, so still re-drill?

Thanks, Chris

The Russ Thompson turn signal still uses the standard Factory Five hub. You send it to Russ and he modifies it to work with his turn signal assembly. So if you don't do his turn signal, it's not split into two pieces (among other things) but the bolt pattern and location where the steering wheel attaches is unchanged. So much of what's shown here would still apply. The FFR bolt pattern is different than the NRG quick release (and anything other than the FFR wheel as Erik said) so you would attach to the hub and steering wheel with new holes as shown. Just wouldn't need the bolts holding the split adapter together. Hopefully that makes sense.

[CobraKan]

The quick release looks like a must have ordered one from Amazon earlier today then read you post on installation. You did a fabulous job. I have read your posts on the Mk3 build and 20th Anniversary and find them to be a must have on a build.

[jwhit]

Well my teaser picture of the inline skate wheels created a few more comments than I was expecting, and their purpose was correctly identified on both forums. Today I have the hood rollers basically completed. Still need the brackets powder coated then will bolt on for good. This is another one of those optional upgrades, but really is a nice addition. It's a bit inconvenient raising and lowering the hood (or cowl in this case I guess) and typically had to go back and forth on each side a couple times to keep it from hitting the corner of the body opening or trying to knock off the lowest bumper on each side. Or ask someone to help and spread as it opened and closed. With the rollers in place, it’s a one-person job from one side and is effortless without hitting anything. I removed the bottom bumper on each side because the rollers provide the same function in that area. Super nice mod that I highly recommend.

As I mentioned previously, a complete version is listed at Whitby’s. But are for the previous Gen Coupes. They mount in an area below the latching U-bolts. The Gen 3 is changed in that area, so can’t mount in the same place or fashion. Could be mounted to the aluminum footbox sides, and probably would be just fine. But I decided to come up with a design more compatible with the Gen 3. Plus, I did it for about one third the cost, if you consider the time spent free of course. Like budget is much of a consideration at this point. :rolleyes:

After even more sitting and staring, decided to mount them to the side of the steel bracket that the U-bolts are attached to. They angle back to the frame and have a relatively large surface to attach to. First made a pattern out of cardboard. Then made some very rough concept pieces out of .040 aluminum. Could have left the bracket square like the cardboard pattern. But decided they needed a little more flair so add the circles where the wheels mount. Ended up looking a little like Micky Mouse ears. After some tweaking and changes, liked what I had and made the final pieces from .125 thick 6061 aluminum. I was going to make them out of mild sheet steel. But decided on the aluminum since it’s so much easier to work with considering the tools I have. I’m very satisfied with the strength. They’re solid and work perfectly.

There’s already a slot in the U-bolt mount, so used that for two mounting bolts. I lengthened it on the outside of the footbox so that one bolt could be on the outside. Both bolts could be inside. But I wanted one closer to the bend and the rollers to provide as much rigidity as possible. For the inside one, had to open the slot slightly for the 5/16-inch carriage bolts I used. A smaller bolt size could work, but I had those on hand so used them. The minor mods to the frame U-bolt mounts was easy on the side with the access cover. Not so easy on the other side where I have all the aluminum finalized. If you’re thinking about this mod and mount them the same way, highly recommend fitting them up before mounting the aluminum panels. Would be much easier. Here are pics.

Developing the concept and rough prototypes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106385&d=1556329877

Driver side final version.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106386&d=1556329890

Passenger side final version with access cover off showing carriage bolt attachments, and with cover on.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106387&d=1556329897

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106388&d=1556329905

Cut required in underside of cowl flange to clear roller assembly and U-bolt latches.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=106389&d=1556329913

Next up I'll finalize the pontoon alignment pins and a little more remaining bodywork. Then on to final electrical and lighting. Completely off topic side note. My first build, a Mk3 Roadster with a warmed up 306 is owned by a good buddy in our local club and see it often. He had a Factory Five premium top put on it (those are really nice) and had a shop install the Saturn Vue electric power steering system. It’s now over 10,000 miles and hadn’t been tuned up since I sold it to him 5 years ago. He’s been doing the usual fluid changes, lube, etc. But hadn’t touched anything else on the engine. He asked if he could bring it over and have me check it out. It was fun getting my hands dirty on my old build. He’s taking great care of it and still looks brand new. Cleaned up the contacts in the MSD distributor and put some new plugs in it. Other than that, everything looked perfect and runs great. Was a good time with both friends. :o

would you be willing to share the pattern for skate wheels ?
thanks

[edwardb]

would you be willing to share the pattern for skate wheels ?
thanks

I wondered how long it would be before someone asked that. :o Fortunately, I saved the prototype pieces I made from .040 aluminum after the initial cardboard templates. Traced them and scanned with a 6-inch ruler. Download the .pdf and scale the print until the ruler measures six inches and should be a good starting point for the brackets. I made mine from 1/8-inch aluminum with the round parts a little more symmetrical than these prototypes. Have held up well and work great. The patterns don't have the bolt holes for where they go into chassis. I used c-clamps to hold them in place until the right location, then marked and drilled. The wheels I used were AOWISH 4-Pack 64mm Inline Skate Replacement Wheels 85A from Amazon. Good luck!

[jwhit]

I wondered how long it would be before someone asked that. :o Fortunately, I saved the prototype pieces I made from .040 aluminum after the initial cardboard templates. Traced them and scanned with a 6-inch ruler. Download the .pdf and scale the print until the ruler measures six inches and should be a good starting point for the brackets. I made mine from 1/8-inch aluminum with the round parts a little more symmetrical than these prototypes. Have held up well and work great. The patterns don't have the bolt holes for where they go into chassis. I used c-clamps to hold them in place until the right location, then marked and drilled. The wheels I used were AOWISH 4-Pack 64mm Inline Skate Replacement Wheels 85A from Amazon. Good luck!

thanks for this it should same some time ,i have a laser so i may cut a few sets after i check on mine and offer to others at my cost
can you check mine drawing against what you made and see if it looks close? thanks again 122883

[EZ$]

Hey Paul. Thanks so much for the description of the quick release installation, but I had a couple of questions regarding the removal of material from the steering wheel piece, and the piece that mounts on the steering wheel adapter. You say to completely remove the raised portion on the back of the adapter piece. Because it's recessed into the outer collar of the quick release, how exactly did you go about removing this material? Is the material difficult to cut? I see there are two screws on the back of this piece with washers that appear to locate that cast piece, and possibly hold it in place? Should those screws be removed to pull the piece that is to be trimmed out, or would that be something that should not be removed to avoid problems in reassembly? On the steering wheel piece, it appears that you only took the stock material down to the first step. Is this correct? If I don't have the capabilities to cleanly remove the material, do you think it would be something to have a local machine shop take care of? Sorry for all the additional questions. I just don't want to screw this up. Thanks.

[edwardb]

Hey Paul. Thanks so much for the description of the quick release installation, but I had a couple of questions regarding the removal of material from the steering wheel piece, and the piece that mounts on the steering wheel adapter. You say to completely remove the raised portion on the back of the adapter piece. Because it's recessed into the outer collar of the quick release, how exactly did you go about removing this material? Is the material difficult to cut? I see there are two screws on the back of this piece with washers that appear to locate that cast piece, and possibly hold it in place? Should those screws be removed to pull the piece that is to be trimmed out, or would that be something that should not be removed to avoid problems in reassembly? On the steering wheel piece, it appears that you only took the stock material down to the first step. Is this correct? If I don't have the capabilities to cleanly remove the material, do you think it would be something to have a local machine shop take care of? Sorry for all the additional questions. I just don't want to screw this up. Thanks.

The parts are aluminum, so not hard to work with. I did the majority of the work by hand. For the piece that goes on the steering wheel, I trimmed it carefully with a Dremel, then straightened with a file, and finished by sanding across a piece of sandpaper on the workbench. Took some elbow grease to get like the picture, but not particularly difficult. The amount to take off is as you described. It's obvious how much to take off once the other side is on the adapter. The release won't go together until the right amount is removed.

The piece that goes on the adapter is a bit harder. I described making a fixture and trimming with a router. But that didn't work all that well, and if I were doing it again wouldn't bother. I mainly removed all the material with a Dremel. The flat surface is already there, so just need to work down to that. I didn't take the screws out that you mention. That would have released the locking spring assembly, and since there were cautions about how it should be adjusted, I chose not to disturb it. Not sure that would have made it any easier anyway.

If you're not comfortable with all of this, I would think a machinist could do it pretty easily. Probably with a milling machine, lathe, or both.

[EZ$]

Thanks so much Paul. Just wasn't sure how easy/hard the removal was going to be. I've got basically the same tools, so I'll give it a go. Good to know that the piece with the locking button doesn't get taken apart. That was what I figured would happen.
Another question I forgot to ask, how did you center the pieces to get the holes drilled? I was going to make a template of the holes, and try to center it on the center point of the steering wheel and the adapter. Just don't know how accurate that will get me.

[edwardb]

Another question I forgot to ask, how did you center the pieces to get the holes drilled? I was going to make a template of the holes, and try to center it on the center point of the steering wheel and the adapter. Just don't know how accurate that will get me.

Nothing very fancy there either. Placed the quick connect pieces over their intended spots and marked the hole locations. Then using a micrometer measured and adjusted as necessary to get them exactly the same distance from the edge of the inner concentric holes. Center punched and measured again. Drilled an undersized hole and measured again. Couple I had to tweak with a needle file. Final drilled and tapped the adapter side. Everything centered up quite well. This is where a drill press really helps.

[JohnK]

I'm in the middle of the mods required to install the quick release, so I'll share my experience. I haven't modded the piece that goes on the steering wheel yet, but I did mod the piece that goes on the adapter. I actually did remove the two screws with washers and removed the cast aluminum piece that requires trimming from the outer ring. Besides removing the two screws, you need to be careful of the little brass release button that sits in a recess in the cast aluminum piece. You'll see it if you look in between the cast piece and the outer ring. It's the button that releases the silver release button on the outer ring. The button and spring will shoot across the room if you don't catch them. However, it was actually really easy to remove and made trimming the cast aluminum piece far easier. I trimmed off most of it with a Dremel cutoff wheel, then took it over to my bench sander and sanded the remaining ridge off until the bottom was smooth and flat. Putting it back together with the brass button and spring in position was very easy and straightforward. I didn't really see any way to adjust things - I just re-installed the two screws with washers until they were fairly snug, and everything appears to operate as it did before I took it apart (but then again, I haven't installed it in the car yet).

Apologies for intruding on your thread Paul. Just thought I'd share in case it was helpful.

[edwardb]

Apologies for intruding on your thread Paul. Just thought I'd share in case it was helpful.

None needed. More than one way to do this thing. Thanks for sharing. Side note. Loaded my Coupe into the SE trailer today for transport down to the Autorama show. Reminded once again how much easier it is to climb in and out, especially through the side door of the SE, with the steering wheel out of the way. Great mod.

Picture from a couple days ago when the sun was out. Before the big snowstorm we're supposed to get tomorrow. With #8674 Roadster waiting patiently in the background for more attention.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123240&d=1582686940

[EZ$]

Thanks Paul. I'm going to try to finish this tomorrow.

John, thanks for the insight regarding taking the unit apart. I'm going to try to do this without taking the unit apart, but now I won't be paniced about taking it apart, and not being able to put it back together.

[JohnK]

Beautiful! Exceptional work (as always).

What's next? ;)

[CTHiker52]

Paul, the car looks gorgeous in the sun light and I'll bet the picture doesn't do it justice. Enjoy the Autorama show

Gary

[Papa]

Looks like another show winner, Paul. Your work is amazing.

Dave

[EZ$]

As the guys have mentioned, and I failed to in my reply, the coupe is stunning inside and out. Your cars are always amazing. I can only dream of that kind of quality construction. Congratulations!

[Vette1972]

Paul,

I have followed the build for 2 years along with many others. What a masterpiece of car craft! It is an amazing build. Best of luck at Autorama!

Thanks for sharing,

Len

[edwardb]

Done with a marathon weekend showing the 99.9% completed build at the 2020 Detroit Autorama in TCF Center (formerly Cobo Center) in downtown Detroit, Michigan. This is the fifth time I’ve shown a build at this annual show. I enjoy doing it, but it is exhausting. We moved in last Thursday at noon and there was nearly no waiting and went fine. Move out was last night and after waiting in a multiple blocks-long car trailer line, made it in after two hours and dodged all the obstacles to get home last night just before midnight. The Coupe is back safe and sound in the garage. There seemed to be a lot of cars on display this year and was very well attended. There were crowds of people in front of the Coupe (and all the others of course!) for hours at a time. Had lots of interesting discussions and mostly good questions. Some know the Daytona Coupe story. Some don’t. Response to the Coupe was overwhelmingly positive. Most commented about the paint and loved the color. Many also commented about the Coyote and how cool it was to put a modern powerplant in a vintage style car. Had a conversation with a very well-known dealer of hot rods, classics, etc. and he confirmed this is the hot spot for him. Said at least in his experience this is what most buyers are looking for and will pay more for it. Not remotely looking to sell. But interesting. Probably one of the most common responses was people saying they wouldn't fit or couldn't get in and out. In my people watching experience during the show, that's true for many. Just saying... Also lots of Factory Five questions. People interested in the process, how it went for me, what I thought of their products, telling me about builds they were doing or planning, etc. All good. Caught up with Dan from Factory Five a few times who was there with the 25th Anniversary Roadster in the Ford Performance booth. Kind of interesting. They were playing TV commercials the week before this event. Several people sent me screen shots. That’s my 20th Anniversary Roadster in the Ford Performance booth last year.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123469&d=1583157088

Here are some pictures from my display. You have no control of where you’re located. You go where they say. I was right next to a commercial booth (body shop supplies or something) that erected a giant wall on the back perimeter of their display. Wasn’t over the line, but kind of crowded me and IMO isn’t the best background. But no big deal I guess. This was before the crowds started coming in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123474&d=1583157132

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123473&d=1583157122

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123472&d=1583157114

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123470&d=1583157098

Several people here asked me to do a walkaround video. So did that also before the crowds on Friday. I am a pure amateur at this sort of thing, and the background noise made my narration kind of soft and average quality from my iPhone. But turn up the volume and you’ll get the idea. https://youtu.be/w2pLNjTEJOM

For the first time in all the times I’ve participated in this show, I was there when the judges came to my car. I introduced myself but stayed out of the way. Spent 10-15 minutes going over everything they could see, including with a flashlight. At the end, offered some compliments about the car but openly gave me the details of two things they found. Both really minor. I could show them more. :p Felt good about how it went. But still was nervous right up until they called the class at the awards ceremony. Was happy to receive this trophy for the 1400.0 Handbuilt Sports class.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=123475&d=1583157142

I was told my car was in the running for several special awards. Best paint, best interior, best engine, best sports, etc. Nothing there, but was pleased (surprised) to be in the conversation. The competition and money people are obviously willing to spend is incredible. After a day or two relaxing and recovering, planning to start this week on the title and registration process. Should be done in time for warmer weather and finally getting to drive.

[GoDadGo]

...You Winning This Award Doesn't Surprise Any Of Your Factory Five Family Members!

Congratulations & Well Done!

[Papa]

Not surprised at all, Paul. You deserve it and we all know your build quality is "First Place" every time. Congratulations!

Dave

[delta0014]

Congrats!

[JohnK]

Congratulations Paul! Very well deserved.

[cgundermann]

That’s awesome Paul!

Chris

[Kool AC]

Awesome job Paul, well deserved. I tried making it down there Friday, but the traffic and congestion got the better of me, turned around and went back home to work on the roadster.

[wareaglescott]

Congrats Paul. They are just confirming with that award what we all already knew!

Ok great thread and all that but clearly the question on all of our minds....

WHAT ARE YOU BUILDING NEXT AND WHEN DOES IT START??? hahaha

[Jeff Kleiner]

Congrats Paul! I would have only been surprised if you DIDN'T bring home the trophy :)

Jeff

[EZ$]

Paul, I would have to 2nd what Jeff said. Congratulations!

[edwardb]

Ok great thread and all that but clearly the question on all of our minds....

WHAT ARE YOU BUILDING NEXT AND WHEN DOES IT START??? hahaha

Thanks for all the congrats and comments. Much appreciated. What's next? At least for the short term seems to have things I've been promising the last couple years... basement, half bath vanity, something about shades, our storage shed, you get the drift. Not planning any build threads on any of those projects if that's OK. :)

[shark92651]

Thanks for all the congrats and comments. Much appreciated. What's next? At least for the short term seems to have things I've been promising the last couple years... basement, half bath vanity, something about shades, our storage shed, you get the drift. Not planning any build threads on any of those projects if that's OK. :)

Your wife definitely deserves some "project time" from you after this. Not that I'm making any suggestions, but you know the next logical progression is.... GT40! ;)

[Automan]

Congratulations Paul!!!!! So well deserved!!!

[CTHiker52]

Congratulations Paul. Well deserved. Now in a few weeks will come some more fun - - - driving it.

CTHiker (Gary).

[Jimtmich]

Fantastic Paul! You earned it!

[Caddy Dad]

Congratulations on another awesome build and a well deserved award! Also thanks for sharing all your knowledge and build threads. I reference them all the time.

[Paul Mischenko]

Congrats Paul on another 1st place showing and the completion of another amazing build! You have quite a trend going there, two back to back 1st place showings... what's next????

[Automan]

Your wife definitely deserves some "project time" from you after this. Not that I'm making any suggestions, but you know the next logical progression is.... GT40! ;)

Who would make the GT40 as a kit now?

[edwardb]

Congrats Paul on another 1st place showing and the completion of another amazing build! You have quite a trend going there, two back to back 1st place showings... what's next????

Thanks! No plans for another build at this moment. Aside from not knowing what would be next, would mean getting rid of one of the two I have now. And I don't see that happening. We'll see. Actually though three Autorama firsts in a row. Not that I'm counting. :rolleyes: Both Mk4 Roadsters and now the Coupe. My first build, the Mk3, took a second. First that year was a Superformance. Figure that out for a handbuilt class. But another judge pointed out to me I didn't have the battery disconnected, which is required by the rules. Probably was penalized for that. I had the master disconnect off and thought that was enough. But turns out they want the cable physically off the post. Rookie mistake and hasn't happened again.


Who would make the GT40 as a kit now?

I don't know much about the subject. I do know RCR is one source and was the GT40 replica used in the Ford vs. Ferrari movie. I understand they provided 30 of them. Just saw one at Autorama. Still had dirt on it. RCR is local to me here in SE Michigan. A buddy that lives just down the street is building one. I'm surprised how small it is. Nice looking kit with high quality parts. But not without issues either. Cool car but not something I'm particularly interested in doing myself.

[David Williamson]

Well done, congratulations on another win. Just back from a ski trip to Jasper and i had to check how you did.
David W

[Joecobr]

Nothing but the highest admiration, Paul! Your passion, dedication, and willingness to share your skills are unparalleled.

[edwardb]

Nothing but the highest admiration, Paul! Your passion, dedication, and willingness to share your skills are unparalleled.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Misc%20Pics/.highres/bigstock_Embarrassed_Emoticon_845629_zps2f5084df.j pg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/p/f74ac9ab-37b6-4c21-b856-825d96d37697)

Thank you. You're very generous. Really, I'm just doing something I've had a great time doing.

[edwardb]

Big progress today. Local sheriff department dispatched an officer to my house and he signed off the inspection report. Was a super nice guy and very helpful. He loved the car which didn't hurt. With that in hand, went to the SOS office (Michigan's version of the DMV) and waited for 2-1/2 hours. But I have my VIN number and the title application is complete and on its way to Lansing. They said it looked like I'd done this before. Hmm... In a few weeks (hopefully) I'll get the call for the VIN tag and title. Then the easy part. One more visit for registration and plates and I'm good to go. Only downside to the day was I'm now a little lighter in the pocketbook. The tax man finally had to be dealt with.

Won't be long now.
https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/.highres/burning%20rubber_zpsurneon46.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/p/4d357a0c-0bd6-4ec0-83e9-b24693b601d1)

[KDubU]

Another stunning bold Paul. I really like the colour on the coupe and I’m typically not a red guy. Are you taking to her to the open house this year? I may come down roadster’less but regardless enjoy being there.

[edwardb]

Another stunning bold Paul. I really like the colour on the coupe and I’m typically not a red guy. Are you taking to her to the open house this year? I may come down roadster’less but regardless enjoy being there.

Thanks. Yes, we're planning to attend the open house in June. Then London the week after. With some other family stuff we have going on, will be a busy couple months. But it's all good.

[RJD]

Thanks for all the congrats and comments. Much appreciated. What's next? At least for the short term seems to have things I've been promising the last couple years... basement, half bath vanity, something about shades, our storage shed, you get the drift. Not planning any build threads on any of those projects if that's OK. :)

...And the trophy case - you'll be needing to build a larger one now. Congratulations!

[Yamahasrx700]

Are the taxes based on the finished car value if so would it make sense to get it plated before the car is finished.

[edwardb]

Are the taxes based on the finished car value if so would it make sense to get it plated before the car is finished.

I can't speak definitively for states other than Michigan. For a new title based on the Certificate of Origin, the value is based on the purchase price. I had to produce original receipts for the kit, engine, and trans. Simple math after that. Way less than the finished car value. At least it better be! I suspect most/all states are similar.

[Yamahasrx700]

Ok. That makes sense. Thanks. Awesome work.

[BadAsp427]

Paul, from the first time I contacted you about my possible purchase of my 20th kit I've followed your build threads. I've had many conversations with others from this forum about your attention to detail, your eye for what looks great. Your builds have been great from the start, but you knocked it out of the park on this one. Fantastic job!!!

[edwardb]

After passing the inspection and completing the title application early last week, I expected it would be some weeks as it's been in the past before the next step for the VIN tag and title. Imagine my surprise when the agent called yesterday and said he had the VIN tag ready to put on my car. Everything was approved. He said he'd looked over my application including a picture I had included with my application. Said he was anxious to see my car so could he come in the next hour or two? Of course I said yes and he was here not long after. We ended up talking cars for an hour or so after the tag was affixed under the dash near the FF engraved serial number. He said the title was in the mail, but I could go to the SOS office and get my registration and plate any time since the VIN was on file. That's an easy step, but will wait for the weather to officially warm up a bit. Could be another month or so, but I'll be watching. I have to have proof of insurance for the plate, so no point in getting in too much of a hurry if I can't drive it. But I'm ready and not much stopping me now.

I'm working on the A/C system. Getting it finalized and charged. Doing it myself as I had tentatively planned. I'll do an update when that's done. All new to me, so it's been a learning experience.

[edwardb]

One of the very last items on my final punch list was charging the A/C. As shown previously, my build has the Factory Five optional Coyote Gen3 Coupe heat and A/C package. Mechanically installed pretty much like the instructions. The two main changes I made were the vents and the control panel. I changed the end vents from the underneath side of the dash to the front plus added two more vents in the center. For the control panel, integrated the controls into the custom switch panel between the dash and the transmission tunnel cover. The temperature and fan controls are the ones from the kit. The A/C on/off switch is a custom rocker matching my other switches. All of this was covered in more detail in previous posts.

Once the engine was installed and running, easy enough to test the heater and it works. Nothing more to say there. But getting the A/C charged and tested has been waiting for time, warmer weather, and me deciding whether I would do it myself or take it somewhere. I decided to give it a try myself. I have zero experience and little knowledge about this subject, so decided to use it as a learning experience which I enjoy. Some tools are required. Which I didn’t have. But functional tools, e.g. not the most expensive but also not the cheapest, were roughly the same cost has having a shop do the work. If there were any issues, leaks, whatever, that would only increase the cost. Plus, to be honest, I don’t like other people working on my car when it’s something I can do myself. Kind of the same rationale I used to tool up for alignments a couple builds ago. Plus who among us doesn't like an excuse for more tools? So this post will describe tools I bought, the process, and how it turned out. Spoiler alert – the A/C blows cold. Isn’t that the most important thing?

There are only a few tools required to do an A/C charge the right way. A manifold gauge set and vacuum pump are the biggest ticket items, plus a couple smaller items. I spent a lot of time looking at options for the manifold gauge set. There are units out there from $30 to multiple hundreds or more for pro quality. I only looked at analog gauges. There are digital options too, but the cost goes up and not really needed for the occasional DIY'er. I read dozens of reviews and watched a bunch of review videos. There were almost none, in any price range, that didn’t have both good and bad reviews. So obviously a lot of variation in quality. Probably also a lot of variation in users. But that’s always the case, right? I settled on a middle of the road DIY quality set from Mastercool. Their 89660-PRO5. $88 at Amazon. It’s made only for R134a, so additional adapters or connectors aren’t necessary. Also came with a case which is important since it will spend a lot of time there. Everything about it worked perfectly during my work yesterday and today. For the vacuum pump, also looked at a lot of options and also possible to spend very little up to a lot. Decided to go Harbor Freight with this. Their 61245 2.5CFM unit. $76 with the usual 20% off coupon and tax. Good reviews and worked well. Also has an R134a connection, so no adapter required. I also bought a Mastercool 85510 R134a Can Tap and Valve (more about that later) and a Robinair 10596 Dial Thermometer. Total tools right at $165. Add supplies and I was just under $200. Already had safety goggles and gloves, which are highly recommended. Not bad and can now service my own system for only the cost of supplies.

One caveat though. With this setup it’s only possible to do a complete charge on a new system like this one, and then monitor and service in the future. However, if a complete system purge is required, that needs to be taken to a professional. The equipment required is cost prohibitive for DIY. Purging to the atmosphere is dangerous, illegal, and irresponsible. If that’s required at some point in the future, I’ll pay someone to do it and move on. Still would be able to do the system charge myself afterwards.

You will not a find a shortage of articles and YouTube videos about charging your A/C system. I read and watched a bunch of them. Some well done. Many not. But after a while, the process became pretty clear and worked for me. There were several I found especially helpful, but this was probably one of the more informative and well-constructed videos I used: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pdq8JAlct6s&t=5s.

First thing up was how much charge to put in the system. Related to that was how much oil. DD’s have an underhood sticker showing the proper amounts, with R134a by weight. No such luck here obviously. It’s possible to get reasonably close on the R134a by the gauges and measuring the output temperature. At least that’s what I’m counting on. But oil is another issue and here I have a short story. When I received my Gen 3 Coyote, I installed the alternator and A/C compressor finishing up the front accessory drive. Also installed the hose adapter blocks onto the compressor. This meant I removed the sealed caps on the compressor and replaced with the blocks and their loose-fitting caps. During that same timeframe discovered the oil pickup tube issue with the Gen 3 Coyote, discussed at length previously. The engine was on the engine stand for a number of weeks, often upside down as I was dealing with the oil pickup and oil pan. I noticed oil dripping on the catch pan I had underneath. Most of it was engine oil. But some of it was clear and I determined it was coming from the compressor. In hindsight, should have done something then. But I didn’t. Proceeded to install the engine and move to this point in the build. In doing research for the A/C, found that most new compressors come pre-charged with a certain amount of oil. Uh-Oh. The label on the back of the compressor says 4 ounces. So how much dripped out? Just a few drops? Or some significant amount? After thinking about it for several days, decided the right choice was to take the compressor off, drain the oil, and fill with the right amount. Too big a risk otherwise. No way to drain it while installed on the engine. Fortunately, it’s pretty open from the bottom to remove. Didn’t like taking the hoses off, but actually was a good thing. Found I had cut an O-ring when installing one of the hoses previously. Worst was getting that silly elastic serpentine belt off and back on. But what I found was about 2-1/2 ounces of oil in the compressor. So it had leaked enough that it was good I checked. The system uses PAG 46 oil (pretty common) but of course Ford has a very specific one. Double end-capped (DEC). Look it up if you want an explanation. I’m not going to try. I had to take Chemistry 101 twice so that it didn't kill my GPA. Only that I’m pretty much a slave to using specified fluids, and unfortunately this one isn’t too common. Not in local parts stores. But of course Amazon had it. Motorcraft YN-12-D.

With the oil in the compressor filled to the right amount, the only thing left was how much to have in the overall system. Found that Ford lists a current Mustang GT as 7 ounces total. But that’s with an accumulator and this system doesn’t use one. Asked Factory Five. They said use what was in the compressor and charge with one of the “1st Charge” cans that contains oil, as shown in the instructions. That product says it adds 1 ounce of oil. Being uncertain, I posted a thread and got some good advice from forum member mike223. Settled on adding one additional ounce, which I put in a line before re-attaching to the compressor. So total oil in my system is 6 ounces.

OK, so finally with everything put back together, tools on hand, and oil in the system, time to vacuum out the system and add the R134a charge. Here I won’t be so long winded because the process is documented in the video I referenced (plus dozens more) and is pretty straightforward. Although a couple bumps that I’ll mention. Hooked up the gauges and drew a vacuum on the system. Turned off the pump and noted the readings. Came back an hour later and they hadn’t changed. Good! No obvious leaks. Turned the pump back on and let it run for an hour to evacuate and dry the system. With that done, hooked up the first can (the 1st Charge) and was able to get some in but then stopped as the pressure equalized. So started the engine and the A/C intending to get the rest of the can in. But unfortunately, there still wasn’t enough pressure in the system for the compressor to start. This can happen as many instructions note. I had to jump start the compressor by applying +12v to the positive lead on the clutch. Took more of the can and then there was enough pressure for the system to control the compressor as its supposed to. Bump #1 resolved. I had to work with the valve on the can for it to keep coming out, but eventually was empty. Hooked up the second can and nothing came out. Tried the third with the same result. Dug deeper and found bump #2. Found that in 2018 these kinds of cans were required to have a self-sealing valve. The piercing style can tap I bought won’t work on them. Says right there on the can, I just didn’t know enough to realize what it meant. Somehow through shear dumb luck the first can was still able to pierce and eventually discharge. But it shouldn’t have. Found there’s an adapter. Interdynamics DVA-1 and my local Advance Auto had one. Worked like a charm and was able to complete the rest of the fill. At least according to the rough pressure numbers I’m seeing. Based on the temperature and humidity and 45 or so degrees F at the outlets in the car (there are charts) my system seems to be working as it should. Feels nice and cold now. We’ll see how it feels out driving on a hot summer day. Total fill was roughly 34-35 ounces.

That’s my story. Hopefully some takeaways for others there. Was an interesting experience. Next post has some pictures.

[edwardb]

Products used:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124012&d=1584061305

Evacuating the system:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124011&d=1584061298

Filling the system (first can without the adapter):

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124013&d=1584061313

Can tap with the adapter added (much better):

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124015&d=1584061331

The result we’re looking for:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=124014&d=1584061322

[Jeff Kleiner]

Good on ya' Paul! I haven't worked on an auto AC system for 30 years so everything I knew then is long gone. Thanks for the refresher!

Jeff

[edwardb]

*** Coupons have been claimed. Went to new builds. :) ***

For those following this thread (which is nearing the end BTW) for putting up with it I have a couple Summit Racing 10% off coupons. One was in the goody bag I received as an exhibitor at the Detroit Autorama two weeks ago. The other on a flyer that Summit was passing out to show attendees. These are good for 10% off any Summit order. Only conditions listed are can't be combined with other discounts and crate engines and transmission excluded. However, they do expire in just a couple weeks. 03/27/20. If you have an order coming up with Summit, and hopefully enough that this would give a significant savings, PM me and I'll get you the code. I've done this before and they were successfully used. I'll update this post if/when they're gone.

[Sdonnel]

My wife and I were fortunate to see Paul's build this last Saturday, in person. As many have said, the end result is stunning. The pictures do not do it justice. With both the coupe and roadster sitting side by side, my wife and I were shocked at the level or perfection Paul achieved. Twice, no less. I too, asked Paul "What's next?". His response was perfect. Drive them. After I drooled for a while, he started the coupe. It sounded like someone pissed off the devil. I can't wait to hear it when he applies excessive pressure on the loud pedal. Woodward 2020??? Paul and his wife are THE nicest people you can and will ever meet. To the comment about some wife time, with a build like this, he's going to be doing whatever she wants for a long time. Congrats again on the recent awards and all those headed your way in the future.

Scott & Kelly

[Garry Bopp]

Awesome award, Paul. Hope to see this beauty at Open House!

Garry

[edwardb]

Big day today. I had my title and VIN about a week ago. But had to wait for an appointment at the Michigan SOS (DMV) since that's how they're handling the current situation. No walk-ins. That's OK. It was quick and painless and went without a hitch. I have a temporary tag until my vanity plate shows up in a couple weeks. Everything else is done and I'm good to go. So what to do when I got home? First real drive. Didn't go crazy since it's the first time plus threatening to start raining, which it did not long after I was back in the garage. A few times around my neighborhood just to feel things out. Then out for several miles and and back on the main street in front of my house. Total of about 8 miles. Through all the gears. Max speed about 55 mph.

Good news: All the gauge readings look fine, car handles great, chassis feels stiff, clutch and T-56 work well, steering is centered and feels good, brakes OK but clearly need to be bedded in, and heater and heated seats work great. I didn't wear my ear plugs but noise level wasn't bad. Can definitely hear/feel that Torsen diff doing its thing. Something new to get used to. Back home and checked for any leaks or anything that didn't look right. Nothing. So can't complain about any of that. It's going to be a great driver.

Not so good news: My Gen 3 Coyote is clearly not too happy yet. It kind of cuts out occasionally which if you have the gas down gives a pretty good jerk. Oddly at even RPM numbers. Like 2,000, 3,000 etc. Once back home scanned the ODB2 port, and had P0172 and P0175 codes, which is system too rich on both banks (both O2 sensors). Also had a P061B code - Internal Control Module Torque Calculation Performance, which I've seen before. Not sure if they're related. Did another short run with the nGauge and ran a log file. I'm far from an expert on such things. But looking at the data clearly shows it running too rich at certain times. I couldn't detect any correlation between the RPM drops and the data. But hard to tell (at least for me) looking at 1000 lines and 33 columns of data. What I have heard is the MAF sensor tuning in the Gen 3 is very critical. Without the stock airbox likely that's a big issue. The other thing I've heard about the Gen 3 is that the stock tune runs rich. Perhaps those two things are related. Bottom line it's driveable but not optimal and running too rich for long can't be good for it. I've already sent a message to Lund Tuning who I've used for a couple Gen 2 custom tunes. Hopefully they have experience with the Gen 3 crate motor. Seems by now they should have.

Curious if others here have their Gen 3 running and driving and what your experience has been with the stock tune.

[freds]

Curious if others here have their Gen 3 running and driving and what your experience has been with the stock tune.[/QUOTE]

Similar story for my Gen 2.....Dyno tune made a huge difference.

[wareaglescott]

Hey Paul what about the learning capabilities as you drive it. I remember we previously knew the computer could adjust the fuel +/- 25% I think. Do you feel with some more miles the rich condition may improve itself?
I know we both have been real pleased with the Lund tune so you probably wont be waiting to find out anyways. Just curious as to your thoughts on this.

[edwardb]

Hey Paul what about the learning capabilities as you drive it. I remember we previously knew the computer could adjust the fuel +/- 25% I think. Do you feel with some more miles the rich condition may improve itself?
I know we both have been real pleased with the Lund tune so you probably wont be waiting to find out anyways. Just curious as to your thoughts on this.

Hey Scott. Yeah, of course I remember those conversations. Those were related to the warnings Ford Performance was giving us that we'd burn up our engines running lean without a custom tune. Which turned out not to be the case. They were the ones who told us the PCM could learn and trim up to +/- 25%. Then they agreed it would throw codes if more than it could adjust for. Since mine is throwing rich codes, I can only assume it's richer than it can compensate for. Will learning change that? I don't know. My guess is it's too far out. But all academic as you said, because Lund is going to work on it. They have the order. We're going to use my same nGauge as used on the Roadster so hoping it can happen quickly. Hope to see some progress next week if the weather cooperates.

[edwardb]

I started a separate thread about experience with the Gen 3 Coyote, how it runs for other builders, tuning experience, etc. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?35324-Who-has-running-driving-experience-with-the-Gen-3-Coyote-Please-weigh-in. As I guess I suspected, there are a number of projects underway but not many on the road yet. At least based on the response from that thread. I did hear from a couple builders, not detailed in the thread, who were having a very similar experience as mine. Another that wasn't that's in the thread. The CliffsNotes answer? A custom tune is likely mandatory for the Gen 3 Coyote. It's all good IMO because the previous generations also benefited from a custom tune and I was planning on it for this build too. Just didn't think it was going to be quite this necessary. Engine is running great now. Here's what I posted:

As of an hour or so ago, completed logging the third version of the custom calibration from Lund Racing. Word back from John Lund, Jr. who's doing my tune: "I'm happy with that data! Log looks great. Fueling is good. Wide open throttle is happy. Knock sensor is happy." Not only is he happy, so am I. Engine runs great. All the bad stuff I reported before is gone. Only about 20 total miles on the car, and Michigan is now totally on lockdown. So it's going to be a few weeks before I can drive it any more. But I'm pleased and excited how it's running and everything I hoped the Gen 3 Coyote would be. For my last data run, he requested a wide open throttle (WOT) hit as best I could. I have a secret place I go when that's necessary (I'm not telling...) but it's a few miles away and didn't want to venture out that far. We live out in the country a bit and there was basically no traffic on the 2-lane highway that goes by our neighborhood. So did find the bottom of the accelerator (gently...) while in second. The goal was 7,000 RPM. I saw the tach starting to swing by 7,000 and the speedo by 80, so let go. Lets just say it really got in a hurry. And LOUD. Amazing. Car was rock solid. That's not usually my thing and won't repeat (much) but gave me a healthy respect for what's there. That kind of action belongs on a strip or track. And BTW, zero DTC's with the two last rounds of calibration and logs. So bottom line all good and as far as I'm concerned, solved. The tune comes with a three month warranty. So I can log more data and have them review if I think it needs it or if I just want to do a followup after I've driven it more extensively. I'm planning to do that when we can start driving again.

I asked about the 3.5-inch tube and the MAF sensor. Both zero issues. Said the 3.5-inch tube isn't an issue since I have an open element air filter. Also said the MAF sensor has plenty of range for this mostly stock setup, and actually can be safely used for much more.

I wanted to make a video of my last logging run just to record what the car was like while driving, what the engine sounds like, etc. Didn't work out for several reasons. But did this gauge sweep while it was running in the driveway just before taking off. Not great but gives a little bit of an idea. https://youtu.be/mDcixNQ5rJM. Note the sliding windows are closed and I have the filler panels in the quarter window scoops. It's not real loud. But while driving and with higher RPM's is plenty loud. I expect we'll be using the same ear plugs as when in the Roadster.

So here's my conclusion on this subject FWIW: The Gen 1 and Gen 2 Coyotes could be successfully run with the stock tune from Ford Performance. Many did and still do. I ran the stock tune on my Gen 2 for about 1,000 miles and thought it ran OK. After several others found a custom tune made it even better, I had Lund Racing do a remote tune on it (similar process as this time around with the Gen 3) and it was markedly improved. But bottom line not mandatory. I now believe that story is probably different for the Gen 3. Clearly when the same 3.5-inch intake pieces as used on the Gen 1 and 2 (either Spectre or Treadstone Performance) are used on the Gen 3 the MAF calibration is off and must be adjusted. Otherwise it will run rich, throw codes, and all around not be happy. Like mine was. If you duplicate the 4-inch MAF tube, like Ford is now using for the Gen 3, meaning different parts than the previously used Spectre or Treadstone, or maybe the same Spectre part without the insert in the MAF adapter, you may be better and and may get by without a custom tune. But IMO, builders using the Gen 3 Coyote should expect it to need a custom tune and if you don't already have a tuner that knows these engines (specifically the crate version) then I highly recommend Lund Racing. It's around $500 if you already have the input and logging device (e.g. nGauge like in my video) or around $700 if you don't. But my suspicion, and I have it on good authority from Ford Performance engineering, is if you use anything other than the stock airbox, you should get a custom tune for optimal running and performance. I would plan on it.

[edwardb]

OK. This is it. Planning to end the build thread here. It's been quite a journey. Graduation thread posted here: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?35373-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Graduation&p=404015#post404015.

[shark92651]

Another awesome build thread Paul. Glad the tune resolved all your problems. The first time I did a WOT on 2nd to get to 7200 I was a little apprehensive, but did it and sent the logs to Lund and they said "the throttle wasn't at 100%". Had to do it again and I stood on it the 2nd time. Let's just say I was glad I did it in 2nd gear and not 3rd. I agree, not the best thing to do on public streets but is quite a rush!

[P100DHG]

Congratulations! What a great thread you made, what an inspiration, but also an extended thank you for the support you've given to all of us when issues arise. Enjoy your car!

[edwardb]

1. Delivery (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=303786&viewfull=1#post303786)

2. Inventory Complete and First Impressions (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=304088&viewfull=1#post304088)

3. Build Planning (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=304951&viewfull=1#post304951)

4. Suspension Assembly Prep Including IRS (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=305711&viewfull=1#post305711)

5. Front Suspension (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=306227&viewfull=1#post306227)

6. Center Section Installed, Wilwood Brakes, Fan Shroud, E-Brake (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=306939&viewfull=1#post306939)

7. Gas Tank and Interior (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=307718&viewfull=1#post307718)

8. Electrical and Seats (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=309365&viewfull=1#post309365)

9. IRS Completion, Mock-Up Block (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=310781&viewfull=1#post310781)

10. LED Lighting (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=311486&viewfull=1#post311486)

11. Radiator Tunnel, Seats, Rear Wheel Spacers (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=311780&viewfull=1#post311780)

12. Engine Mock-up, Seats, T-56, Interior (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=313296&viewfull=1#post313296)

13. Engine Installation Mock-Up (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=313402&viewfull=1#post313402)

14. Fuel and Brake Lines (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=315113&viewfull=1#post315113)

15. A/C – Heater – Defroster (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=315494&viewfull=1#post315494)

16. First Look Gen 3 Coyote (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=315716&viewfull=1#post315716)

17. Trunk Box Fabrication (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=317071&viewfull=1#post317071)

18. Windshield Wipers, Locking Gas Cap, Interior (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=317637&viewfull=1#post317637)

19. Aluminum Panels (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=318929&viewfull=1#post318929)

20. Instrument Panel and Interior, Final Plan (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=321791&viewfull=1#post321791)

21. Glovebox (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=323319&viewfull=1#post323319)

22. Switch Panel and Gauges (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=324377&viewfull=1#post324377)

23. Driveshaft Safety Loop (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=325019&viewfull=1#post325019)

24. More Aluminum Panels (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=328404&viewfull=1#post328404)

25. Electronic Content (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=328609&viewfull=1#post328609)

26. Panels and Insulation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=333335&viewfull=1#post333335)

[edwardb]

27. Seat Installation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=335190&viewfull=1#post335190)

28. Lizard Skin Application (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=338021&viewfull=1#post338021)

29. Gen 3 Coyote Received and Fitment (scroll multiple pages for additional activity) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=338094&viewfull=1#post338094)

30. Main Power, Coyote Power Wiring (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=346901&viewfull=1#post346901)

31. Gen 3 Coyote Installation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=347529&viewfull=1#post347529)

32. Power Steering, A/C – Heater – Defroster, Radiator Plumbing (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=350347&viewfull=1#post350347)

33. Gen 3 Coyote CMCV and Vacuum Plumbing (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=351623&viewfull=1#post351623)

34. Cockpit Wiring (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=352360&viewfull=1#post352360)

35. First Start (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=353637&viewfull=1#post353637)

36. Alignment (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=357505&viewfull=1#post357505)

37. Body Installation (scroll multiple pages for additional activity) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=357759&viewfull=1#post357759)

38. Side Windows (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=362057&viewfull=1#post362057)

39. Hood Rollers (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=365614&viewfull=1#post365614)

40. Rear Hatch (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=367759&viewfull=1#post367759)

41. Custom Gen 3 Coyote Engine Cover (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=371325&viewfull=1#post371325)

42. Door Cards (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=374173&viewfull=1#post374173)

43. Quarter Window Scoops and Fill Panels (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=375735&viewfull=1#post375735)

44. Headers, Sidepipes, First Drive (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=376312&viewfull=1#post376312)

45. Body Undercoat (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=382131&viewfull=1#post382131)

46. Paint (scroll multiple pages for additional activity) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=382784&viewfull=1#post382784)

47. Final Assembly (scroll multiple pages for additional activity) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=392034&viewfull=1#post392034)

48. Windshield Installation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=397649&viewfull=1#post397649)

49. Quick Release Steering Wheel (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=399325&viewfull=1#post399325)

50. Completed and 2020 Detroit Autorama (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=401367&viewfull=1#post401367)

51. Air Conditioning Charge (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=402610&viewfull=1#post402610)

52. Legal, First Drive, Gen 3 Coyote Custom Tune, Graduation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=403386&viewfull=1#post403386)

53. 1,000 Mile Report (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=424004&viewfull=1#post424004)

54. First season recap and adjustments (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=438286&viewfull=1#post438286)

55. Windshield replacement (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-Complete-and-Graduated&p=488197&viewfull=1#post488197)

56. 5,000 Mile Report (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26630-Edwardb%92s-Gen-3-Type-65-Coyote-Coupe-59-Build-5-000-Mile-Report&p=508173&viewfull=1#post508173)

[GoDadGo]

Paul,

You should have called this update:

Paul's 52 Step Guide For Building The Perfect Type-65 Coupe!

Thanks for letting the entire Factory Five Family get to watch your latest build.

Steve

PS: What's Next; A Shop Truck?

[Caddy Dad]

Hi Paul,
Thanks for the ToC. It'll help a lot going forward. Also, I'm curious to find out your opinion on building and driving the Coupe vs Roadster. I know it's still early on driving experience with your Coupe, but which one do you enjoy more? Which one challenged you more in the build? If you had to pick one to do over again, which one would it be? I know it's kind of like some asking who is your favorite child, but enquiring minds want to know ;-)

Thanks for sharing all your knowledge and experience!

[edwardb]

Paul,

You should have called this update:

Paul's 52 Step Guide For Building The Perfect Type-65 Coupe!

Thanks for letting the entire Factory Five Family get to watch your latest build.

Steve

PS: What's Next; A Shop Truck?

Thanks Steve. You're too funny. I wouldn't presume to calling it that. Have seen some beautiful builds. But certainly is my take and really happy with it. Don't have a next project yet. Not going through build withdrawal yet, but expect it to set in soon. My challenge is I can't possibly justify another with two already on hand. Plus don't have the room. So one would have to go, and don't see that happening right now. See my next answer.


Hi Paul,
Thanks for the ToC. It'll help a lot going forward. Also, I'm curious to find out your opinion on building and driving the Coupe vs Roadster. I know it's still early on driving experience with your Coupe, but which one do you enjoy more? Which one challenged you more in the build? If you had to pick one to do over again, which one would it be? I know it's kind of like some asking who is your favorite child, but enquiring minds want to know ;-)

Thanks for sharing all your knowledge and experience!

Thanks. Let's see... Yes, I think the Coupe is more challenging than the Roadster. Even after building a couple Roadsters. Mainly the body fitting and the interior tends to get more complicated. At least it did in my case. On the flip side, it does have more room in the engine compartment and transmission tunnel. So that made the Coyote and T-56 installation pretty easy in comparison. Way too early to say which we prefer. With less than 20 miles on the Coupe, can't say too much yet. If feels and drives a lot like the Roadster. I wouldn't say it's noisy. But it's not quiet either. Even with all the insulation and sealing I did. That's not a negative because it's probably quieter than the Roadster. But people who think because it's enclosed it's going to be quiet will be maybe surprised. It feels a little "closed in" compared to the Roadster. But that's not because it's dimensionally any smaller. All dimensions are the same or more. Just the feeling from the roof, roll cage, etc. Expect will get used to that with more driving. Definitely a little harder to get in and out of compared to the open top Roadster. I suspect similar to a Roadster with a top. But can't say for sure because haven't had one. I can say I immediately appreciate the closed top with some climate control. Drives to date have been when the outside temp was in the 40's. Cold ride in the Roadster. Not a problem at all in the Coupe. So the idea that it will extend the driving season a bit seems reasonable. Also first impressions are that it's a bit challenging to see out of. Long nose, small side windows, narrow view out the back hatch. Will get used to that too, but will need to be especially careful. Which one to choose? Don't know and right now not going to try.

[BTHWarrior]

Paul,
Another incredible build! Stop setting the bar so high for us first time builders!!! I hope one day you will rewrite the roadster/coupe build manuals so they are more of a how to, then a suggestive guide. One day I will finish my roadster and I hope it turns out half as good as yours. Thanks for the extra effort you put into your builds documenting each step and assisting others with their builds.

[progmgr1]

Thanks, Paul! The ToC will be very useful, especially for the "Google impaired" among us. I know I've spent hours searching the thread for some specific tidbit that I saw once and didn't realize its importance until later.

Now, the big ask: please consider doing the same for your 20th Anniversary Roadster build thread. A number of us still dig through that one too - especially the Gen 2 Coyote owners.

Thanks again for sharing your gorgeous builds, and for the thorough documentation of the process and procedures. Your insights into building these cars and the multitude of build tips are very helpful for us novice builders.

Cheers! Keith HR #894

[edwardb]

Thought I’d do a post with some observations and follow-up on a few loose ends. Still very early in my driving experience with a grand total of 37 miles So, I expect there will be more when I can drive more. But certainly time now to write something up.

As stated previously, first impressions driving are all very positive. Since it’s configured similarly to my 20th Anniversary Roadster, feels a lot the same. Haven’t had it on rough enough roads to tell if the chassis feels stiffer, although I know technically it is. Longer wheelbase does seem a little noticeable. Can’t tell much difference with the wider 275 front tires. The feel of the KRC power steering is perfect using the smaller spool valve. The T-56 shifts perfectly and the clutch (more later) feels great. Love the speed sensitive reverse lockout. I'm finding I usually leave the steering wheel in place when climbing in. Kind of slide right past it. But for getting out, it's way easier with it removed. So really happy I added that feature at the last minute. As I mentioned before probably the biggest difference is the long nose and it’s generally harder to see out of. I’d really recommend to future builders to do as much as you can to have proper mirrors all around. A buddy suggested a full-time rear-view camera. I chose not to, and don’t necessarily regret it. But can see why that might be a good idea. The Gen 3 Coyote continues to start and run perfectly after the Lund Racing tune. Zero DTC's since the tune activity. As I wrote on Facebook, we used the Coupe to retrieve a take-out meal from our favorite restaurant last week. Was 12-15 miles out and back, so the longest drive yet. My wife went along and she gave it two thumbs up. (The car and the meal). Wore ear plugs and decided that will be standard. Just like in the Roadster. Had my first “What is that?” question from another driver while waiting for our food to come out. Suspect that’s going to be a common occurrence.

There was a lot of discussion in the build thread about where I chose to place the Mustang style Moroso cooling expansion tank. Sidebar: On both of my Coyote builds I’ve chosen to replicate the Ford designed cooling hoses, tank and filler. As opposed to the kit instructions to basically block everything off and use a T-filler in the upper hose along with an overflow tank. In addition to being sealed, the OE setup is self-burping and just works. Anyway, due to the chassis design, available space, etc. I chose to mount the expansion tank where it was somewhat lower than in the Roadster and also in a Mustang. What I have found is that it works just fine. After the initial coolant fill and several engine runs to full operating temp, the level dropped just like it should have as air was evacuated from the system. Filled it back up and I’ve checked it several times since. Right where it should be. I’ve had the engine to operating temp a number of times, and it locks in at the 190/195/198 range just as it should. Related to this, I’ve confirmed that Ford Performance definitely altered the Gen 3 crate motor program for the radiator cooling fan. Rather than basically running all the time like on the Gen 2, the fan switches on around 190/195, and then goes back off when the temp drops. In cooler weather like now, it basically doesn’t run. That’s a welcome change from the Gen 2.

For the ride height, the build manual says 4-1/2 inches front and back. That looked high to me with too much gap between the tires and wheel arches on the body. After some experimenting throughout the build, I’m now at 3-1/4 inches in the front and 3-3/4 inches in the back. I’ve had to adjust the coilovers a couple times to keep those settings. Totally normal as it’s breaking in and settling. That makes it a little low in the front so need to watch where I drive. But don’t think it will be a problem. The difference front to back gives it a little rake, plus maybe helps a little to see over the nose.

For the alignment, I roughly set it during the build, got it really close during final assembly, and just this weekend went through everything again to where I’m happy with it. It’s not much fun doing the rear IRS settings with the body on but got through it. Once finalized, used red Loctite on the rear IRS adjustment nuts and put on witness marks. This also per FF instructions. Did the same thing on my Roadster three seasons ago and have watched it. Nothing has moved. BTW, while on the subject, I suggest witness marks on the rear axle nuts and the front upper ball joints as well. Then did the front suspension which was really close and didn't need much. Figures, since it's wide open access with the hood up. Really like my new (with this build) Longacre 78298 caster camber gauge. Readings seem to be very accurate and repeatable. My only complaint is since it’s digital, I find myself chasing .1 degree differences that I could never remotely see on the previous FasTrax unit with a pointer and lines. OK, maybe that's a personal issue. :o The QuickTrick turn plates I’m using now are also a big upgrade over the trash bags I used before. While on the subject of alignment, I didn’t have to cut anything on the UCA’s to easily get 8 degrees of caster recommended for power steering. Maybe FF did something different on the Gen 3 Coupe chassis since power steering is perhaps more common now. Whatever, I would recommend that builders not be in a hurry to cut those until they’ve tried to align it. Seems won’t be required.

Another thing I tried on this build was a hydraulic throwout bearing. Specifically, a Tilton 6000-Series Hydraulic Release Bearing (HRB) 60-6104 along with a Wilwood 13/16 inch MC. This resulted in lots of discussion in the build thread. Granted the experience so far is limited. But I’m very impressed. Compared to the usual hydraulic master/slave setup on the clutch arm, it’s economical, easy to install, and self-adjusting. The feel, contact point, etc. is very smooth. But mostly I’m amazed how much less the effort is. It’s not subtle, it’s a lot. I have the exact flywheel, clutch, and pedal box setup in my Roadster. The other day I hopped in the Roadster to move it around and was shocked how much stiffer the clutch pedal felt after getting used to the Coupe some. I know the knock on the HRB setup as been they aren’t reliable and if there’s a failure the transmission has to come out. We’ll see about the reliability part, but Tilton makes good stuff. So I’m optimistic. It’s not like once you put the transmission in it never has to come out. Clutch replacement and traditional throw-out bearings also require it to come out. The good news I guess is that the Coupe chassis is much more wide open and it would be relatively easy to drop the transmission. Well as much as a 120 pound T-56 would be easy. I noticed on FF’s order sheet the other day they’re now offering an optional hydraulic throw-out bearing. Interesting. Anyway, at this stage is something I would recommend other builders at least consider.

Finally, one thing I have noticed in my driving so far is kind of a vibration from the inside panels below the doors. You don't hear it. But can feel it if you touch it or rest your leg against it. It’s not a big deal and something I’m sure I’ll get used to. I checked, and my engine is running smooth enough. The headers and pipes aren’t loose. The pipe hangars are installed and don’t seem to vibrate much. I’m guessing it’s mostly just because of how close the side pipes are to the body and they’re just on the other side of where you’re sitting. Not like on the Roadster where they’re further away and much lower. Plus the pipe exits are right outside the back of the door and maybe there are some pulses from there. I have the usual (for me) Lizard Skin and carpet on the inside. If I had to do it all over again, I’d consider adding a bunch of insulation on the other side of that panel. Maybe several layers at least. There’s plenty of room. The area outlined in this picture from early in the build. Too late for me since everything is sealed up by the body. But something other builders may want to consider. Curious if anyone else has noticed. Again, not a big deal. Just in that mode with a new build where you notice everything.

That's it. Just need to drive it more.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/ab234/edwardb123/3/IMG_0425.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/p/80ced639-a99a-4c14-8d57-5111dabbe972)

[Kool AC]

Thanks for the update Paul. Especially glad to hear the Gen 3 Coyote is running well.

[edwardb]

Literally the last thing on my build plan is a car cover. Thought I’d share what’s happening there, which may be of interest to some other Gen 3 Coupe builders. For my Roadster, I purchased a Weathershield HP cover from Car Cover World some years ago for my first Roadster and have used it ever since. They have patterns for various Factory Five Roadster versions, one or two rolls bars, etc. and mine fits exceptionally well. It fits into a relatively small bag and has held up to some monsoon rainstorms. Still in perfect condition.

So, I wanted a cover like that for the Coupe. Contacted them, and they have patterns for the Gen 1 and Gen 2 Coupe. But not the Gen 3. They said they could make one for me if I completed a measurement worksheet plus a $35 design fee. I’ve worked with them to complete the process. There were 24 measurements, which I completed as carefully as I could. Spent time on the phone going over them and comparing to the same set of measurements for a Gen 2. Seemed reasonable so I placed the order. They originally said it would be at least 8-10 weeks since their factories are slowed down by the current situation. But I did receive notice last week that my cover is “in production” and should be done in about 30 days. So that’s promising. Once I receive it, I’ll check the fit of course. It can be sent back and adjusted if necessary but hopefully that won’t be the case. Once the measurements and layout are confirmed, others should be able to order the Gen 3 without additional measuring or the design fee. I’ll post the results. The custom cover itself made from Weathershield HP is $345 BTW.

One other point. Since my Gen 3 has the rather prominent mirrors, those need what they call “mirror pockets” which they’re going to make. But by policy the factory won’t sew them to the cover. They said they’ve had too many instances where the location didn’t fit correctly. So, my option is to mark the locations and send the cover back for them to sew at no charge. Or make arrangements to sew them locally or myself. TBD on that one.

So, on the subject of covers, the other day I was watching some YouTube videos of Coyote swaps. This one happened to be in a 70’s vintage F100 pickup. Interesting. Anyway, I saw they had fabricated a nice cover that went over the PCM. With time on my hands due to our famous Michigan lockdown, and me never particularly liking the prominent visible location I ended up with for my Gen 3 Coyote PCM, decided to try to make up something. Played around with some patterns out of cardboard, decided what I wanted to do, and cut and bent the cover out of .040 aluminum. Stretched the capability of my cheapo 30-inch HF brake. A decent box brake needs to be in my future sometime. But got it done. Before bending, cut cooling slots in the top using a plunge router and a fixture I made from some scrap wood. With a sharp carbide bit the thin 6061 cuts pretty easily. Has mounting tabs in the back held with 10-32 nutserts into the frame and button head screws. The front has small D-tube cushion along the top and neoprene cushioning material against the PCM mounting ears. Not going anywhere. I would have liked to powder coat it. But those places are closed now and when they finally open, expect will be backed up for a long time. So, painted it with some Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black Satin rattle can paint I had on hand and called it good enough. Stuck a Ford Performance sticker on it to make it look official. Looks a little appliance-like. But cleaner than the PCM hanging out in the open.

Turned 50 miles in the Coupe the other day making another take-out meal run. Like it but really want to be driving it way more. Hopefully not too much longer.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=126855&d=1587491385

[timsmitaruba]

Hi I did ask you this before but cant find the answer you gave me. Where did you get the Ford Emblems? And do you have the # for it?
Thx in advance, and great job man!

[edwardb]

Hi I did ask you this before but cant find the answer you gave me. Where did you get the Ford Emblems? And do you have the # for it?
Thx in advance, and great job man!

Thanks. I assume you mean the ones on the hood sides by the latches and grilles? Those are Ford Performance M-16098-PBFP. I got them from Summit. But I've seem them listed at multiple sources, so widely available. Nice pieces.

[nelsond003]

Love your engine cover. I hope you don't mind me copying that design for my Gen 3 intake :)

[GashF16]

Finally, one thing I have noticed in my driving so far is kind of a vibration from the inside panels below the doors. You don't hear it. But can feel it if you touch it or rest your leg against it.

Thanks edwardb. I will beef up the insulation in this area. It sort of reminds me of shooting the gun in the F-16. We had a 6-barrel gatling gun shooting 20mm rounds at 6000 rounds per minute, and the damn thing was mounted in the fuselage just a couple feet away from my left arm. The first time I shot the gun, my mouth was open a little bit. The concussion rattled my teeth and made my head ring. After that I learned to close my mouth and grit my teeth a little before squeezing the trigger!

[edwardb]

Love your engine cover. I hope you don't mind me copying that design for my Gen 3 intake :)

Sure! Copy away. Would like to see what you come up with.


Thanks edwardb. I will beef up the insulation in this area. It sort of reminds me of shooting the gun in the F-16. We had a 6-barrel gatling gun shooting 20mm rounds at 6000 rounds per minute, and the damn thing was mounted in the fuselage just a couple feet away from my left arm. The first time I shot the gun, my mouth was open a little bit. The concussion rattled my teeth and made my head ring. After that I learned to close my mouth and grit my teeth a little before squeezing the trigger!

No experience with the F-16 (:eek:) but I'm pretty confident the Coupe isn't that bad. That area has a lot of clearance to the body. So put a good layer in there. Can't hurt.

[edwardb]

Several more things to report on. Plus, I’ll add some observations after 127 miles.

During the build I replaced the kit supplied black plastic defroster grilles with some more blingy Vintage Air billet aluminum ones. Nice, but guess what reflects badly onto the windshield while driving? Bright aluminum colored grilles. Should have seen that coming! So off they came and painted with some satin black. Could have put the plastic ones on. But there’s a principle at work here. Still have the upgraded ones, even though now they look just like the plastic originals.

Another observation during driving was no windshield visors. Didn’t bother me much. But did get some comments from my wife who is more sensitive to light. Didn't want to use solid visors, so looked for some in tinted acrylic. Like what’s often used in airplanes. Also used for the Roadster but in that case more for wind. Found tinted visors are popular with the off-road crowd and roll bar mounts are often used. So, with a lot of searching, came up with these from Wild Horses Four Wheel Drive in California. 3819NET 12 in. wide roll bar sun visor w/tinted shield. Available for 1.625 in. roll bar. Not cheap at $150 (there’s that nasty budget thing again…) but I will say they’re super high quality. All billet aluminum mounts and very nicely made. I ended up trimming about an inch off the bottom. I wanted them to fold forward up and out of the way and they were slightly too wide. Still accomplishes the intended purpose and keeps my better half happy.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129066&d=1590539570

With the current shutdown situation, our Secretary of State office (Michigan’s version of the DMV) has been closed. I was able to complete my title application and registration just a couple days before they shut down. I was given a paper tag until my personalized plate arrived in the mail. But fully expected that to be delayed. Surprised to find it in the mailbox recently. So now I’m 100% legal and with a finished plate. I drug out a license plate frame that I had on the Mk3. Doesn’t fit on the Mk4’s but fits fine on the Coupe. Cleaned three seasons of dirt and corrosion, and good to go.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129067&d=1590539577

My very last shopping list item, which I mentioned before, was a car cover. Really like the Weathershield HP Roadster cover from Car Cover World. So, wanted to order the same thing for the Coupe. As I also mentioned before, they didn’t have a pattern for the Gen 3 Coupe. So provided all their requested dimensions and placed my order in early April. They said it would take a couple months, again due to the current situation, and they weren’t wrong. Arrived today. The fit looks good. I need to locate and sew on the provided mirror pockets. They provided detailed instructions for how to do that. I would think others could order using the same patterns. May not be on their website. But a phone call should work. Shouldn’t get charged a design fee like I was. Or spend several hours trying to take measurements. Looks like this, with mirrors removed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129064&d=1590539555

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129065&d=1590539562

Finally, thought I would list some observations after some very early seat time. As I said, only 127 miles. Mostly 5-10 at a time getting take-out meals and a few other times I just couldn’t stand it so drove a short country road loop. Really hoping in the next couple weeks things will change. But still enough miles to make these observations. Some I’ve mentioned before. But now just a few more miles:

In many ways it feels and drives like the 20th Anniversary Roadster. No surprise since it has the exact suspension, shocks, brakes, sway bars, 18-inch wheels and power steering. Also the same BFGoodrich G-Force Rival S tires. Only difference is the Coupe has wider 275 fronts. But don’t detect any difference from that.
The chassis is very stiff obviously. Supposedly more than the Roadster. But have to admit I don’t notice the difference. In my somewhat mild driving anyway. The longer wheelbase (95” versus 90”) is subtle but does seem a little smoother. No shakes, rattles, squeaks, whatever. All solid just like the Roadster.
The Gen 3 Coyote, with the Lund Racing tune, is running perfectly. Starts instantly and does whatever I’ve asked it to with zero hesitation. Haven’t pushed it hard at all, but clearly has a bunch of power. “Normal” driving is peaking out at 4000 – 5000 RPM. I’ve only gotten close to the stock 7,500 redline once, and that was the wide open throttle logged run for Lund. Need the right time and place for that. Gets crazy really fast. I’ve had zero DTC’s since the custom tune was finished.
The KRC power steering is excellent. Centering is good but maybe not quite as good as the Roadster. May adjust toe-in after driving it more extensively and in more varied situations.
Very happy with the T-56 transmission. Shifts smooth and easy. Love the reverse lockout. It’s an easy decision for the Coupe IMO. Not convinced it’s worth the extra effort to install in the Roadster. The TKO in my Roadster also works very well.
I can’t say I’ve noticed any difference in the Torsen diff yet. But again haven’t done much beside pretty light cruising. Can hear it clacking around a bit sometimes. Usually when you get off the gas and then back on it again. Not a big deal. Was told to expect it. Plus it’s only about 12 inches behind where you’re sitting. Or less.
Heater works really well. Pumps out tons of hot air. That plus the heated seats I think we’re going to be OK. The A/C blows cold, is holding the charge, and shows the right readings on the gauges. Had it out on some mild days and seemed good. Had it out yesterday in some warmer weather (sunny, upper 80’s, high humidity for us anyway) for a more difficult test and still seems effective. I wouldn’t put it in the same category as the multi-zone automatic climate control in our SUV. But cruising around it was fine. When I pulled into the garage and shut down and opened the doors, realized just how warm it was and how much cooler it was inside. So I think it’s going to keep things comfortable.
Probably one of the things I’m happiest with so far is the clutch. The Tilton hydraulic release bearing setup is smooth and noticeably much lighter effort than the Forte external slave hydraulic setup in the Roadster. I’m amazed each time I go back and forth between the two with the same clutch and flywheel on each. I know people are nervous about the reliability (so am I…) but maybe the time has come for more to consider this. It’s also cheaper and easier to set up.
I’m getting used to climbing in and out so that’s no longer a big deal. The removable steering wheel I only take off when exiting. Don’t really need to for climbing in. Have to say though some of the improvement is finally listening to my doctor and exercising every day and being more careful with what I eat. Have shed quite a few pounds and makes a difference.
Although very limited obviously, this car really gets a lot of attention when you’re out. The usual honks, waves, thumbs up, etc. But unlike the Roadster with the “Is it real?” question, now it’s “What is that?”


Here are a few slightly less positive observations:

First and foremost, it’s loud. Just no way around it. Everybody says that about the Coupe. But I really hoped by doubling down on insulation, making sure it was completely sealed up, and using something beside the original steel Factory Five mufflers (not sure muffler is the right term…) it would be quieter than it is. We’re wearing our earplugs, which isn’t necessarily a surprise, but definitely mandatory. The Gas-N pipes, like their Roadster pipes, have a less harsh tone but aren’t what I’d call quiet pipes. As I said in an earlier post, if I were to do another one, I’d really build up the insulation between the body and the aluminum panels in the area of the pipes. I’m convinced the noise and vibration that close to the interior is a contributor. If you’re really concerned about noise, I’d look for quieter pipes, cats, or maybe like Erik quiet things down with turbos in the exhaust stream. :p
I’m still getting used to the more closed in feeling when driving. Dimensionally, every measurement is the same or more than the Roadster. My wife is especially happy with considerably more room in the passenger side footbox. But let’s face it. These are small cars. With the open top Roadster you don’t notice it as much. Mainly I think this is just something to get used to. But I still notice it.
Finally, don’t underestimate the limited visibility. I had a rescue vehicle come up behind me yesterday with siren on and lights flashing. Didn’t see him before I got a couple extra sounds from him and of course immediately got out of his way. Between the loud interior, ear plugs, and visibility, really have to be extra vigilant.


That’s it. Beautiful Hannah Joy was born to our youngest son and his wife one month ago today. Our fourth grandchild. They're in Texas and not sure when we'll be able to get down there. Been using the the stay at home time to rehab/refinish our basement. Finishing up the fifth room with one to go. Then going to re-side our storage shed. Glad to be getting this stuff knocked out. But man I’d rather be building and driving. Watched the Factory Five live video today and saw them unveiling the CF body for the new F9. Then Dave mentions that Erik Treves is going to be a beta builder. Couldn’t help but feel a pang of jealousy! Don’t know if that’s a build I’m really interested in. But would like to be doing something again. We’ll see.

[Erik W. Treves]

Hey Paul... Great write up.. yes the car is loud.. and I agree the pipes pounding on the side of the body is where I think a lot of the sound comes from.

I also can confirm the visibility comment... I replaced my pass. And rear view mirror with convex mirrors... Made a HUGE difference. .. much better.

I also was getting blasted inside the cockpit by the sun . It was pretty bad in Texas.. I have since place a black piece of vinyl on the top of my window about 5 inches wide .. your solution looks like a better solution... However my frit has started to pull away from the window on the top corners ... So this was a good way to fix both... Bumming about the frit .. but such is life....

Glad you got your plate... You have a very nice piece there .... Get out and enjoy... The car will really grow on you on how good it rides after about 500 miles... Then jump in the Cobra... You will notice the difference I think...

Nicely done!!

[Nigel Allen]

The KRC power steering is excellent. Centering is good but maybe not quite as good as the Roadster. May adjust toe-in after driving it more extensively and in more varied situations.

G'day Paul,

My Roadster is manual steer (haven't been able to find a RHD power steer rack yet) When it was new, the centering was non existent. If you made a turn and took your hands off of the wheel, the car would continue to turn indefinitely. There was adequate caster as well as toe-in in the set up, but not enough to overcome the stiction of the ball joints, and possibly the tie rod ends to a lesser extent. This made the car difficult to enjoy, as it was quite unnerving. I had plans to retrofit Howe Racing ball joints, but the current exchange rate made it prohibitive. An old school wheel aligning expert advised that ball joints are generally very tight these days as all cars have PS. He said the stiction issue is less noticeable on PS equipped cars. He recommended putting some kays in, as he expected the ball joints would loosen up. Over ~3,000kms the centering improved and the steering became lighter also. Now with a bit over 4,000kms showing, the stiction is completely gone and car steers like it should.

I sometimes need to remind myself that it is not just the power train that needs to be run-in on a car. The overall driveability of my Roadster has improved dramatically with some decent seat time, which is good, as i felt a bit underwhelmed at first.

Looking forward to end of restrictions.

Nigel

[David Williamson]

Paul I have similar driving experience. I have a different engine/exhaust from both you and Eric and mine is not really loud but it has a resonance and yes ear plugs are still needed. I am hoping with the rear quarter windows in the resonance will be reduced. I did double the sound insulation along the sides by the side pipes.
Compared to my Mkll with a 3 link rear the Coupe ride is much smoother and there is less wind and road noise. I have 600 km or about 400 miles on mine from last year, still lots of stones on the road and I have the trans out chasing oil leaks right now so with luck I will be driving it next week.
Interesting to get your impression on the AC as I have not charged mine yet.
David W

[P100DHG]

So just to put all you experienced builders on the spot here. What insulation would you recommend? Would you have used spray foam and shaped it? a Ridgid installation, something more automotive specific? What do you guys think?

[David Williamson]

I can't compare as I only know what I used and each engine/exhaust combination will be different. I used Dynamat on mine.
David W

[edwardb]

So just to put all you experienced builders on the spot here. What insulation would you recommend? Would you have used spray foam and shaped it? a Ridgid installation, something more automotive specific? What do you guys think?

Are you asking just about the area along the pipes that I've mentioned? Or overall insulation in general? I described my overall insulation during the build thread. Mostly the two layers of Lizard Skin (heat + sound) everywhere in the interior, including the hatch area, except the footboxes. There I pre-covered with Second Skin Damplifier Pro Butyl Rubber Sound Deadener and Dynamat 11101 Dynaliner Insulation for heat. Air infiltration is completely shut off with various caulks and seam sealers. Even sprayed some Lizard Skin in the headliner area before applying UPOL Rapter on the entire body and nose underside. All that plus carpet, full door cards, side windows, quarter window fillers, and full gaskets around doors and windows. Not sure what else could be done.

If I were doing it again, I would add layers of insulation in the areas previously indicated in post #968. Between the outside of the chassis and the body to help dampen sound and vibration from the side pipes. Not sure what exact product. Would have to research more. Maybe something like this: http://www.dynamat.com/automotive-and-transportation/automotive-restoration/hoodliner/.

[P100DHG]

Are you asking just about the area along the pipes that I've mentioned? Or overall insulation in general? I described my overall insulation during the build thread. Mostly the two layers of Lizard Skin (heat + sound) everywhere in the interior, including the hatch area, except the footboxes. There I pre-covered with Second Skin Damplifier Pro Butyl Rubber Sound Deadener and Dynamat 11101 Dynaliner Insulation for heat. Air infiltration is completely shut off with various caulks and seam sealers. Even sprayed some Lizard Skin in the headliner area before applying UPOL Rapter on the entire body and nose underside. All that plus carpet, full door cards, side windows, quarter window fillers, and full gaskets around doors and windows. Not sure what else could be done.

If I were doing it again, I would add layers of insulation in the areas indicated in post #111 between the outside of the chassis and the body to dampen sound and vibration from the side pipes. Not sure what exact product. Would have to research more. Maybe something like this: http://www.dynamat.com/automotive-and-transportation/automotive-restoration/hoodliner/.

I was referencing the hollow area near the side pipes. I guess my question is, what insulation would you guys recommend in that area? I used lizard skin and added two brackets to make that panel more ridged. But it’s a huge void. I thought about a foam insulation and shaping it but foresee potential issues with water retention if it finds its way in there.

Thanks,
Danny

[edwardb]

I was referencing the hollow area near the side pipes. I guess my question is, what insulation would you guys recommend in that area? I used lizard skin and added two brackets to make that panel more ridged. But it’s a huge void. I thought about a foam insulation and shaping it but foresee potential issues with water retention if it finds its way in there.

Thanks,
Danny

I don't have anything to add over what I previously posted. I would take a hard look at that Dynamat material. Based on the description, seems like it would be perfect for that area. Maybe even multiple layers. I suspect there are other similar products out there. But I would use something expressly designed to absorb vibration and sound. Once the body is on (like mine... :() much more difficult to add or change. I don't purposely drive in the rain, although have been caught multiple times of course. I don't think that area would see a lot of moisture. Plus it's not tightly sealed, so should drain/dry if it did.

Full disclaimer -- I have no proof adding insulation in this area will make any difference. Seems like a good possibility, but nothing more. Plus every build is going to have differences, e.g. engine, exhaust, how the rest is insulated and sealed, etc.

[Erik W. Treves]

I actually got a long tube and did my best and filled that area below the door sill with the loose spray foam...I definitely helped... I also spray foamed inside the hinge area between the footbox and the body.... much like in the roadster. If i had it to over again I would put some 1 inch hard foam insulation between the tubes as well....anyway.. my .02

I would also note that Russ Thompson I believe documented that a lot of additional noise comes from the Diff area which is somewhat muffled in a roadster since it's in the trunk area separated from the cockpit...

To Paul's point - every engine and muffler combination is different and will have different characteristics... I have actual headliner fabric throughout the top of the body...I think this helps a lot in my case.

[Bob Brandle]

Everyone,
I've done some insulation customizations on my Gen 3 Coupe in that area. Doug Dahlgren, Gen 3 Coupe 065, actually did part of this first and inspired me. What we did was to actually fabricate added aluminum sheet metal panels to box in that structure below the door on both sides of the car. This panel attaches to the outside of this structure. Doug's need was to close off that area from accumulating pebbles and debris from the rough driveway and roads he drives in Nebraska. He added block foam to fill the void. I also had the idea to add sound insulation to the inside because it was directly inboard of the sidepipes. My idea was to add a layer of Second Skin Damplifier Pro sheet to the inside of this new panels, as well as the "outside" surface of the cabin's sheet metal in that area. Thus two layers facing each other. I'll also have Second Skin on the inside of the cabin sheet metal. I did not add any foam to the fill up the void and since the panels are permanently installed, I'll leave it unfilled for now. But, later on, even with a finished car, I could squirt in foam like Erik has done. My Coupe isn't done yet, so I have no operational results to report. Here's what this all looked like.

Bob

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129176&d=1590680433

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129177&d=1590680446

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129178&d=1590680459

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129179&d=1590680471

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=129180&d=1590680487

[Straversi]

Wind noise can be your friend. When I drive my old Cadillac with the top down it’s a smooth and enjoyable ride. When the top and windows are up it sounds like a Panzer. I hear every rattle and squeak that a 56 year old car can make. Interesting comments about noise from the differential and other sources and some great ides on how to reduce them. It does highlight why there are hundreds of pounds of noise suppressing material in a daily driver. I know Paul and Eric knew what they were getting into but it’s a good reminder to those considering one of these for a first build. Managed expectations go a long way towards enjoying a home built car. Just because it has a roof and has A/C doesn’t mean it’s a daily.
Great write up Paul.
-Steve

[Mike Garrett]

Thanks edwardb for that info, I needed it!

[edwardb]

The very last of my open items are now complete. Absolutely nothing left on the list. So this is my final "final update." We'll see about that. Said it before...

The headlight covers I received with my kit were not good quality. They were the last items on the POL and received many months after my kit was delivered. I think I mentioned before -- but I never removed the protective film until final assembly and after I had fit them to the headlight openings. I was surprised and disappointed in the clarity and pockmarks. Contacted FFR and they agreed to replace them but didn't have any. They were trying to find a different supplier. Found out right before they shut down they had a new supplier, looked good, and once they had stock they would send me replacements. But then of course they closed. Contacted them again last week and I finally received them. Unlike the first ones, these only took very minor trimming to fit, and are crystal clear with no distortion or imperfections. What a nice improvement! Last item #1 completed.

I was in the process of completing my Gen 3 Coyote tune with Lund Racing when the stay-at-home order came down for Michigan. I completed a couple of quick data logging runs. But heard about some expensive tickets being passed out. Not the time to be jetting around in a bright red sports car. So we put the process on hold, even though it seemed to be very close and running great. A few days ago our stay-at-home was lifted. So back at it. I ran another complete set of logs including the infamous WOT (wide open throttle) run. I have a certain place I go (still not telling...) where that can be be done relatively safely and hopefully not attract any undo attention. Because of the distance away, didn't go there during the first round of logging that got stopped. But did go there today and completed two short logging runs with the throttle against the stop. In second, otherwise the speed gets totally out of control. Needless to say the Coyote loves to rev and man do things start happening fast. But got my data and sent everything to Lund. Couple of back and forths, plus I asked them to dial in a bit quicker throttle response. The throttle felt a little softer than the Gen 2 Roadster. That was completed and I love how it feels. All good. Lund is happy with the data in my logs, and I'm happy with how it runs and feels. Last item #2 completed.

Now nothing to do but just drive. Approaching 200 miles and I can tell we're really going to like this car. It's growing on me big time. Really missing seeing our friends and various events and cruise-ins that are the summer staple around here. Nothing is happening yet and expect it will be a slow and gradual build up. Even the famous Woodward Dream Cruise in August has been cancelled, which is really a shame. Really hope the September Open House at Factory Five can happen. We're planning to attend so hopefully can catch up with some of you there. I'm out.

[Paul2STL]

Yeah the WOT pulls where a little scary, when I read what Lund wanted I was like man top speed is going to be pretty high by 7200 rpms in third. So what do you think about the T56 compared to the TKO behind the coyote? I have the T56 behind my gen 2 in a my roadster. I know people say 6th is not needed in the roadster, but it is nice to throw it in 6th on the highway and hear my stereo pretty good. It was a little challenge and more expense for the T56. Just wanted to know from someone who has both to make me feel better about my decision. LOL

[edwardb]

Yeah the WOT pulls where a little scary, when I read what Lund wanted I was like man top speed is going to be pretty high by 7200 rpms in third. So what do you think about the T56 compared to the TKO behind the coyote? I have the T56 behind my gen 2 in a my roadster. I know people say 6th is not needed in the roadster, but it is nice to throw it in 6th on the highway and hear my stereo pretty good. It was a little challenge and more expense for the T56. Just wanted to know from someone who has both to make me feel better about my decision. LOL

Really? You did your WOT runs in 3rd? My runs in 2nd were almost to 90 mph. Pushing it big time on a 55 mph speed limit highway. Wouldn't even think of doing it in 3rd. Anyway, I like the T56 a lot. Three things I guess. The shifts are really crisp and easy. Although my TKO's have been the Liberty modded ones. So they shift nice as well. I haven't had a stock TKO so can't compare that directly. I really like the reverse lock out. Completely eliminates the possibility to hit the reverse gate and the awful sound it makes. Not that I've ever done that. Probably the thing I like the most though is having two overdrive gears. I've had the .82 OD TKO, which I really liked because 5th became a nice gear for higher speed town driving. But really kept the revs too high when cruising on the highway. I've also had the .64 OD TKO (what's in my 20th Anniversary Roadster) and it's great for highway cruising. But really not what you want for higher speed town driving. With the T56 you have both. .8 and .63. So the best of both worlds. I haven't done any extensive highway driving yet, so haven't used 6th much other than to try it out. But I've used 5th quite a lot and it's nice for the 50-55 mph country roads that are all around me. I'm happy with it. For the Coupe especially it's kind of a no-brainer if you want it. No mods are required and it fits with room to spare. Hope that helps you feel better. ;)

[P100DHG]

Are you happy with the 3.73 gearing on the rear end? Too much off the line torque and higher RPMs while cruising or are you feeling like it’s just right?

[edwardb]

Are you happy with the 3.73 gearing on the rear end? Too much off the line torque and higher RPMs while cruising or are you feeling like it’s just right?

The gearing is fine. It's exactly what I expected. The combination of the T56 and the 3.73 is almost exactly the same across the board as my Roadster with the TKO and 3.55. Which I find to be just right. With the addition of the second overdrive in the T56. Always have to look at diff ratios taking everything into account. Engine, trans, tire sizes, and intended use/expectations.

I haven't pushed the Coupe very hard yet, and it's not actually my style to do that. But I am finding it a bit less squirrelly under hard acceleration than the Roadster. Don't know if it's the slightly longer wheelbase, the Torsen diff, or maybe I'm still being too timid. But it's been rock solid.

[Fbird]

Thank you for this great resource and inspiring documentation.

[Dlirium]

I fabricated the added front lower splash guards I mentioned in my last update out of the usual .040" 6061 aluminum. In hindsight, maybe could have done things differently earlier in the build. But this is where I’m at now. If built like the instructions, which mine is, the front of the pontoons are directly behind the front wheels and will get hammered. As some have suggested, putting the kit lower aluminum pieces in front of the pontoons would help. But I found when fitting the body that getting the pontoons into the right locations and locked there was critical to the body fitting. Specifically the alignment of the hood to the pontoons. So I attached them to the back. That leaves the pontoons exposed, along with the rest of the aluminum pieces above them. Now I want to add the same UPOL Raptor undercoat I've used everywhere else. But I really don’t want to mask as much as would be needed, plus I don’t want to spray what’s already been painted. So made these two pieces that will fit over what’s there. Before final attachment, I’ll spray with the Raptor, leaving the paint covered but untouched. They’ll still be removable should I need to renew the undercoat at some point. The upper splash guard, attached to the hood, interlocks into this area forming the complete splash guard. I'll be adding UPOL Raptor on those pieces as well before I finally attach them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121048&d=1579633044

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=121047&d=1579633037




Paul - I noticed that you did NOT go with the updated panel that you (I think) received from FFR. I assume you addressed this, but I can't seem to find it. Did you just feel it wasn't worth the updated, or you already had the panels coated and installed?

Thanks!
brent

[edwardb]

Paul - I noticed that you did NOT go with the updated panel that you (I think) received from FFR. I assume you addressed this, but I can't seem to find it. Did you just feel it wasn't worth the updated, or you already had the panels coated and installed?

Thanks!
brent

I did receive updated panels several months into my build and used all of them. Unless there’s something newer, I have the latest ones installed. In the area specifically in the pictures, the previous panels went across and above the headers. The newer ones leave that area open. Hopefully that answers your questions.

400 miles on the Coupe now BTW. Liking it more all the time. Have been to two cruise-ins and people really like it. But I’m amazed and a bit surprised I guess how few people know what it is.

[Dlirium]

OHHHH!!! So, I have #77 that CAME with the update! I thought the old piece WAS the new piece! LOL, sorry to bother and thanks as always!

[JohnK]

Hi Paul. I'm curious to get your thoughts on whether the Specialty Power Windows WWK-2 wipers would be a good upgrade on a roadster build? They seem to have worked out well for you on the coupe. I'm not installing a heater on my roadster, so that area of the firewall is pretty open. Would they work as intended (2 speeds + auto park) with a Lucas 35927 toggle switch?

Edited to add: I have the FFR wiper kit. Any idea if the FFR-provided arms will work with the WWK-2?

Thanks,
John


My build plan includes wipers and I’m going to do washers as well. Both are required by the Michigan safety inspection. I’ve gotten away without washers on the Roadster builds thanks to sympathetic LEO’s. But not going to try again, plus maybe with this build the wipers and washers might actually be usable and necessary. But I don’t want to work through the Lucas drama for wipers again, so looked for an alternative. Found reference to a company Specialty Power Windows located in Georgia on several other forums. Seemed all good. They sell various performance car power windows and wiper setups, including a universal wiper system WWK-2. Pretty old school. You actually have to call them to order. What??? Found that Speedway sells their products, was in stock, and with a few clicks here two days later. Looked it over today, put together enough to see how it works, and have a basic plan for installing. The overall design is similar to the Lucas variety with a moving cable going through wheelboxes. But it’s quite heavy duty and seems rock solid. Configuration, direction, and amount of sweep are all adjustable. Also in my digging around, found reference to a wiper/washer switch that does everything the usual DD does. Push for washer and several wipes, variable intermittent, high, low, and park. Cool! The one I bought is a Cole Hersee 75600-04. They sell a bunch of variations. After studying the switch schematic and the wiper setup, determined this was the right one. Clipped everything together temporarily, and it all works as it’s supposed to. The wiper kit doesn’t come with arms or blades. Need to figure that out. But even once those are added, what I’m going to install will still be cheaper than the usual Lucas knock-off and I think (hope) quite a bit better.

Had to chuckle a little bit. The literature says these wipers were the Best New Product of the Year at the 1991 NSRA nationals. My first reaction was these are maybe kind of an old design. Then on second thought realized that's 30 years or so newer than the Lucas style wipers. OK, that's progress. Here are some pics.

Inside of main mechanism. Orientation of the drive wheel determines direction. Different holes to adjust the amount of sweep. The wheel boxes come with a long driveshaft that can be shortened, which I probably will need to do. Everything gets packed with grease when assembled for good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82674&d=1521233774

Motor and the Cole Hersee switch. I’ll be changing out the knob to match the others on the dash. Drive cable is in the background.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82675&d=1521233782

Expect to mount somewhere in this vicinity. Plenty of room and should link up OK with the wheelboxes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82676&d=1521233792

I mentioned before about picking up the Breeze locking gas cap and installing into the LeMans cap. Got that done the other night. I’ve shown this including a full description in my other build threads, so won't repeat the details. Cut off the LeMans connection, hog out the flange for the regular cap, and bolt in. Not cheap, but an ideal setup IMO.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82679&d=1521233871

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82680&d=1521233883

Spent more time on the interior layout. Feel like I’m about there. There are some amazing interiors out there. I’m trying to stay within the basic boundaries of the stock layout though. I’m thinking of putting together a small center switch panel. The ends will be boxed in and have the aux outlets. Only switches on the dash itself will be the ignition, headlights and horn button over by the gauges. Probably going to go keyless push button start. Turn signals will be the Russ Thompson unit with headlight low/high/flash to pass on the stalk button. Four A/C-Heat outlets on the face of the dash, and I’d really like to install a glovebox. Probably can’t be real deep because of all the hoses behind the dash, but I’m going to try. I’ll have to do some fabrication on the DS to move things over a bit to fit the outlet on that side. Brow piece is still optional at this point. I’m planning to have the panel with the gauges removable which opens the dash area for access and servicing. Thinking of finishes of vinyl, C-F and some red stitching. Along the lines of how the seats are finished. Something similar for door cards as well. Again, very preliminary but it’s a start. What do you think? At this point changes are as easy as cutting more kraft paper and printing switch images.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82677&d=1521233821

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=82678&d=1521233829

My first batch of powder coat pieces are promised for early next week. Also found out today Factory Five is sending out an update package for all Gen 3 Coupe buyers. There have been some sheet metal changes and maybe more. I’m really not sure. Some have gone out already. Mine is due in the next week or two. Good customer service Factory Five.

[edwardb]

Hi Paul. I'm curious to get your thoughts on whether the Specialty Power Windows WWK-2 wipers would be a good upgrade on a roadster build? They seem to have worked out well for you on the coupe. I'm not installing a heater on my roadster, so that area of the firewall is pretty open. Would they work as intended (2 speeds + auto park) with a Lucas 35927 toggle switch?

Edited to add: I have the FFR wiper kit. Any idea if the FFR-provided arms will work with the WWK-2?

Thanks,
John

Several have asked me about that. While I haven't personally tried it, the Specialty Power Windows WWK-2 setup is only marginally larger than the Lucas knock-off stuff FFR uses (and I've installed several times) so I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work in a Roadster, Hot Rod, etc. The sweep is fully adjustable so that would be fine too. I'm reluctant to weigh in on the other two questions because I just don't know. I used the Cole Hersee 75600-04 switch for mine (2-speed + intermittent, integrated washer function) and it works perfectly including parking. The WWK-2 setup does come with a switch (pictured) but it's obviously rotary not a toggle like the Lucas switch. My wild guess is the Lucas switch would not work because my impression is the parking mechanism they're using is unique. But that's just a guess. Same for the wiper arms. Just don't know and didn't try. the WWK-2 setup is somewhat standard setup and I used Anco arms from Summit. Those might be a little long for the Roadster, but there should be other choices. Worst case buy the WWK setup and see if the arms you have fit. Sorry I can't help more.

[edwardb]

I posted this in a standalone thread. But thought it made sense to add to the build thread as well. Crazy coincidence -- I see this is post #1000 in the build thread. Should have played the lottery.

It’s been a down year for driving like everyone knows. But after being parked for most of three months, I’ve gotten to drive the Coupe more and reached the 1,000 mile mark. So here’s a report.

Overall impression remains very positive. While it’s similar to our Roadster (same suspension, brakes, shocks, power steering, etc.) the longer wheelbase and even stiffer frame improves the ride a bit I think. It just feels and drives like a much bigger car. Love the T-56. Crisp shifts and really like having two overdrive ratios. I haven’t pushed it too hard, but I’m liking the Torsen diff. I don’t feel the back end wiggling around nearly as much when the tires spin. You can hear it a bit, but no big deal. The Gen 3 Coyote is running fine. Zero codes since the tune was completed by Lund Racing. Starts and just goes. Hasn’t used any oil. There was about a tablespoon in the JLT oil separator. So far so good with the Tilton hydraulic release bearing. Effort is light and smooth. Since it’s self-adjusting, clutch pedal release point hasn’t moved. Have my entry and exit techniques pretty well practiced so don’t pay much attention to that any more. The quick release steering wheel should be mandatory on these builds. Helps immensely. Especially for getting out. Like the Corbeau seats. Really like the Schroth Racing Profi II ASM harnesses. My wife especially likes the cam locks on the harnesses over the Simpson latches.

No rattles or shakes anywhere. No discernible air leaks into the cockpit or heat through the footboxes or whatever. My work to seal things up and insulate seemed to have paid off. Have gone over it a couple times and nothing has come loose. No leaks or puddles other than the A/C drain. Which means it’s doing its thing. Speaking of the A/C, satisfied with how it works. It’s been a warm summer by Michigan standards, and it keeps the cockpit comfortable. At some point I may get the hatch glass tinted. But so far hasn’t seemed necessary. For warmer climates that’s probably a higher priority. The design of the fuel filler hose has a right angle not far inside the opening. Have to be careful to not pump gas too fast or it splashes back a bit. Also doesn’t play nice with the new vapor recovery nozzles our local Costco (my usual go-to gas station) installed since you can’t push the nozzle in very far. Last time I was there they recommended I use a specific pump without it intended for “older” vehicles.

Most importantly, my wife really enjoys the Coupe and appreciates being out of the wind and traffic noise. Likes the seats better. Likes the ride better. With both the Roadster and Coupe in the garage this summer, we found ourselves gravitating to the Coupe most of the time. Partly because it’s new I know. But we are just liking it a lot. We’re not ready to drive it cross country yet. But it’s more comfortable especially for longer cruises.

Have been to probably a dozen or so cars and coffees. Plus one judged car show. It attracts a ton of attention. People love it, although I’m really shocked how many don’t know what it is. I’ve been telling the Coupe story a lot. Factory Five is widely recognized and usually with very positive comments or impressions.

Couple of specific follow-up points. Much discussion earlier in the build thread about the location that I chose for the Moroso coolant expansion tank. Due to space, how I chose to lay things out, plus the Gen 3 Coupe chassis, it’s mounted lower than in a Mustang or typically when installed in a Roadster. In the range of 1-2 inches lower. Short story. It works fine. Engine cooling is controlled and relatively cool as is usually the case with the Coyote. Most of the time it’s 190-195 F. Every once in a while when it’s warm and stop and go, goes over 200 slightly but drops right back down when moving. All good. Only slight downside is initial fill (and future flush-refills) have to be through the heater hose connection. But that’s really minor. Coolant level checks and routine maintenance adds are through the cap as normal.

Another discussion in the build thread was about the Factory Five A/C and heat system. The combination A/C evaporator/heater core is at the top of the passenger side footbox and draws in cabin air only. Basically, it’s on recirculation mode all the time. Some were concerned I’d have window fogging among other things. Hasn’t been the case. Works fine. While my car is relatively sealed up (best I could…) it’s still not DD airtight. So I think there’s enough outside air that it’s just not a problem.

Really the only negative is one I’ve talked about several times. It’s louder than I expected. We wear our ear plugs and it’s not an issue. Go into one of these expecting that and you won’t be surprised. There are pipes that are probably quieter than mine. But love my dual-pipe Gas-N’s and don’t regret going that direction at all. I’ve also talked several times about adding major insulation between the chassis and the body where the side pipes are. Still might try something. But not easy with the body on and it’s not coming off. For new builds, really recommend doing something there. Has to help. On the trivial side, the built-in LED indicators (turn signals, high beam) in the Speedhut speedo while nice aren’t very bright. Kinda wimpy when you get right down to it. With the top and always being in the shade, they’re marginally acceptable. For an open top car, e.g. a Roadster, I’d still add separate LED’s on the dash. Also, I’m still getting used to just reading the gauges in general. They’re not quite as easy to read or placed as well as the Roadster competition layout I used.

Changes/fixes: We really missed having a clock. I know everyone complains about the Speedhut clock used in the Roadster. But we’ve never had any trouble with them and miss having one. I know you can use your phone or wrist watch. But I like being able to scan the clock along with the other gauges. After doing some on-line shopping, bought a stick-on clock that’s marketed to the motorcycle crowd. Harley’s, etc. It’s basically a quartz analog watch movement (Seiko) pressed into a black billet aluminum mount. It’s stuck on the dash with double sided 3M foam tape. Looks like it belongs and I’m happy with it. And it doesn’t light. So almost like the Speedhut version. :rolleyes:

Another thing, and this also is pretty trivial, I wired an LED indicator light next to the water temp gauge that goes on when the cooling fan is commanded. In this case, can be commanded by either the Coyote PCM or the A/C trinary switch. What I’ve found is the fan free wheels and reverse feeds the LED. I believe it’s worse with the Coupe and the cooling tunnel that forces air through the radiator maybe even more aggressively. Only glows dimly, but still plainly lights pretty much whenever the car is moving. I’d prefer it only lights when the fan is actually commanded. I’m going to install a diode in the line at the fan to prevent the backfeeding. In hindsight, I could have tapped the LED in a different location. Or added another relay. Or left it out altogether. But with the wiring done and most of it buried, going to keep it simple. I’ve got a 40 amp power rectifier diode on the way and will thoroughly test it before committing to the installation.

Finally, I mentioned in one of my early driving impressions that maybe I needed to check the alignment because I didn’t feel like it centered quite as well as I liked. Or the Roadster for that matter. Upon further review, determined the steering was sticking just slightly. Pulled the wheel and re-did the alignment through the plastic bushing that Russ has in his turn signal assembly. Plus added a coat of silicone lubricant. Problem solved. It was subtle but now all good.

Here are a few pictures. This is the clock I described. Small, but I like it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133640&d=1597527973

Odometer proof. Was in traffic when it actually turned 1,000. Close enough. The red LED is the Coyote MIL. Glows just a bit all the time. Gen 2 in the Roadster does the same thing. Talked about a bit in the forums. Doesn't look quite this bright in real life. Obviously very bright when it's actually indicating. I consider it my "Coyote is alive" light.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133639&d=1597527964

Today was the famous Detroit Woodward Dream Cruise. Or should I say the cancelled Dream Cruise? There were no sponsored or civic events. But didn’t prevent lots of us from cruising up and down Woodward. Plus, still quite a few spectators. I met up with my buddies Greg (Challenge Roadster) and Tim (33 Hot Rod) and we cruised together for a couple hours. That’s us in the background. Greg in the center. Tim on the right. Good times. Hopefully next year will be more back to normal.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=133641&d=1597527982

That’s it for now. Several events coming up in September. But the season (what there was of it) is winding down quickly. With the Roadster now sold they’ll all be attended with the Coupe.