EdwardBs Mk4 #8674 20th Anniversary Build

[edwardb]

April 2020: Table of Contents posted on last page. Link (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=408476&viewfull=1#post408476)

June 2019: 5,000 mile report posted. Link (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=371018&viewfull=1#post371018)

Time to get rolling on another build thread. After a 1,680 mile round trip from Michigan to Wareham, as of August 6, 2015, Mk4 #8674 is now sitting in our garage. This is a 20th Anniversary Edition Mk4, number 03 of 20. This will be my third Roadster build, but a significant first. This is the first build where I am the original owner and taking delivery directly from Factory Five. The first two were purchased from their first owners as partial builds. The Mk3 had a good head start by a pro builder, so a great introduction. The Mk4 was only several months started, so almost like a new build. But time to go it alone from the very beginning. Plus Michigan gave me a really tough time the last go around without my name on the Certificate of Origin. So not going there again.

I thoroughly enjoy driving the completed Roadsters, going to car shows, and cruising whenever I get the chance. Absolutely a blast. The social aspect is great too, with our local club, the extended forum and Factory Five community, etc. But I also really enjoy the whole learning, planning and building process. Each time the builds were completed, I found myself missing the building. With my retirement earlier this year, it didn’t take long to realize another build was something I wanted to do. After some studying (and soul searching) decided it had to be another Roadster, and just to change it up a little spent quite a bit of time planning a 289 FIA build. I was ready to order one during the 50/50 sale several months ago. But then the 20th Anniversary Edition Mk4 was announced, and I was immediately hooked. I called and ordered it while at a rest stop in New York on the way to this year’s Factory Five open house, just minutes after it was made available for purchase. The plan is to sell #7750 when the new build is completed. #7750 is in it's first driving season this year, and now all sorted out and truly a pleasure to own and drive. Frankly, I can’t imagine letting go of it. But that’s the deal, and I’m sticking to it.

So let’s get down to the new non-donor build. The planned use is almost exclusively street cruising. The overall theme is a classic look and feel with completely modern mechanicals and premium driving. Because of the fully optioned anniversary edition, many aspects are already defined. Some of the specifics: Grey powder coat chassis, white powder coat on underhood panels and footboxes (intended to simulate the fiberglass of the originals), balance will be grey powder coat to match the chassis. 2015 Mustang IRS with 3.55 cast iron center section, FFR front spindles, front and rear sway bars, 13 inch front and rear Wilwood manual brakes, Wilwood pedal box with hydraulic clutch, engine driven power steering with 3.0 turn rack, upgraded Koni double-adjustable shocks, 18 inch FF Halibrand style wheels, new Coyote engine with footbox mods to maximize space, Stainless headers, GAS-N side pipes, TKO600 trans with Liberty’s shift mods, leather Roadster seats, Lizard Skin insulation, competition dash (tentatively) with glovebox, Speedhut gauges with GPS speedo, seat heaters, Breeze front battery, dropped floor in trunk, wipers, bumpers and overriders. Undecided about a heater. Haven't done one yet, and haven't missed it. But maybe it's time.

That’s probably enough for now. I’m planning a number of the little mods and touches learned from the first two builds, and maybe some new ones along the way. Notably absent will be a sound system. Spent a lot of time on that with my last build, and find it not very practical. One of my goals is to have a really clean Coyote installation. Not easy with all the wires and hoses. I’ve seen some really great examples. I’ll see how I can do. Color is still undecided. I’m kind of stuck on red, and could easily do that again. But looking at some other options as well. It will have stripes. I’m going to take my time. This isn’t a race. Plus even though I’m retired and have more time than before, I also have other things going on. I’m expecting a roughly two year build, like the first two.

There are 19 items on the backorder list. Many are minor, and won’t hold anything up. A couple others (front spindles, IRS parts) I’ll be watching closely. I’ve completed my inventory. I had a few missing and wrong parts. But not bad and I’m expecting will be quickly addressed. Probably my biggest observation, and I won’t say much at this point, is that I think I might be one of the first people to tackle the new 2015 Mustang IRS. I saw it in person at the Open House, and it’s really impressive and I think will make a great build. But it’s early for FF too. I’ll report more about it in the build thread as progress is made. I do already have the center section, knuckles and hubs on hand and ready to install. Talked about that in this thread: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/512881-2015-mustang-irs-components-so-begins.html.

Going through everything, I'm generally pretty pleased. The windshield is now marked as made in Taiwan. The last two were from China. I wonder if they've changed vendors? It seems decent quality with everything nice and tight and clean. The new wheels are noticeably improved over the previous ones. The new tooling and new vendor has produced some nice parts. But those 18 inchers are huge! We'll see how that all turns out. The chassis looks good. The grey powder coating isn't real glossy, but it's nice. It seems they may have done some extra work prepping it before PC. I don't see much weld spatter. At least in many of the obvious places. Having a whole box of white PC'd panels before doing any fitting or drilling is different. I'll need to take care of those. The body looks good. All the panels match up OK at the parting lines. The new front quick jack mount brackets are interesting. I'll still do my usual grommet installation, but now even more to hold things up. I've got the newer style front UCA's. In general, interesting to see how they continue to make interim improvements to the same version. All good I think.

In the true spirit of no pictures it didn't happen, here are a few of pics of the delivery process.

From another forum member who saw my car in final assembly. Mine's on the RH side:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/image1_zpspxnjoaia.jpeg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/image1_zpspxnjoaia.jpeg.html)

On the rack and ready to go:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/image4_zpskmlqoqul.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/image4_zpskmlqoqul.jpg.html)

Parking with the big dogs at a rest stop in New York on our way to Factory Five:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_0117_zpsa7rugou9.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_0117_zpsa7rugou9.jpg.html)

Loading onto the frame cart:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_0419_zps1fnx0yzt.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_0419_zps1fnx0yzt.jpg.html)

In she goes:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_0425_zpsqvdfgho1.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_0425_zpsqvdfgho1.jpg.html)

Me looking a little sweaty, while my wife does her best Vanna White impression. Factory Five posted this pic on their Facebook page:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/image5_zps08b2xhv8.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/image5_zps08b2xhv8.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Safely back in Michigan, ready to roll back out:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3264_zpsq9pnc9o4.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3264_zpsq9pnc9o4.jpg.html)

Yes, we used every inch:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3268_zpsksj7hvmc.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3268_zpsksj7hvmc.jpg.html)

Home in the garage:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3271_zpszmtgavqd.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3271_zpszmtgavqd.jpg.html)

Just a few boxes. All are in the basement now:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3274_zpskmexfqcg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3274_zpskmexfqcg.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3281_zps37nbisey.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3281_zps37nbisey.jpg.html)

Here's the new IRS chassis setup, before anything installed. I suspect many will be interested to see this:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3277_zpswzip7hpu.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3277_zpswzip7hpu.jpg.html)

Here is a slideshow of all the pics taken during the delivery process, if you want to sit through them all: Delivery Slideshow by edwardb123 | Photobucket (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/slideshow/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery)

I’ll take the body off and start dis-assembly of the rest of the panels next week, in and around Woodward Dream Cruise activities. I’m going to store the body off-site this time around, rather than having it on an elevated buck like my last two builds. I won't miss the head bumping and sore back working under that thing. I’ll get the frame up on the 2-post and start plugging away. Stay tuned for much more!

[BobCarter]

Edwardb- WOW Congrats! Pics look great and the IRS shot with the FFR 5 laser cut out is a nice touch. With your experience and knowledge gained from 2 previous builds this one is sure to be another 1st place winner. I just heard from Stewart today about my delivery date. August 17th is my scheduled XMAS in August. Can't wait. Thanks for all the info you have shared in your posts and keep all of us up to date on your progress. #3 in the series will set the bar for the rest of us 20th Anniversary builders. ��

[Jeff Kleiner]

This will be fun to watch :cool:

Jeff

[RRussellTx]

I've been waiting for this post - I'm looking forward to following your build thread and the IRS updates!
My production date is 8/22 so I'm not far behind.

I've also got a question about what's included in the kit for the IRS (vent, bolts, bushings) but I'll ask it in your IRS thread to keep it all together.

[edwardb]

The first week has mainly been ongoing preparations for the build. I've heard back from FF regarding my backorder list and several missing or wrong parts. Dan assured me all were taken care of. I also heard they have now received some (all?) of the 2015 Mustang IRS parts. So now the waiting begins for boxes to show up on my front porch. It will be a little while before I run out of things to do, but I'll be happy to see all that stuff arrive.

Meanwhile, first order of business was to get the body off, onto a body buck, and stored out of the way for now. The last two builds I put together quite elaborate elevated body bucks, then ended up cutting them down and giving them to the painters thinking I would never need another body buck. Oh really? So this time I tried to keep it real simple. I have a frame cart (visible in some of the earlier pictures) so I thought why not use that as a removable base for the body buck? Overkill, but double duty would be a good thing. So I made a real simple frame on 24 inch centers to rest on the frame cart, and then just hung everything off of the frame. I used 7/16 inch ply instead of OSB because it's much lighter (plus I had a piece laying around). With the body buck done, used the SE to take the body over to our storage unit. I have it for our SE and also store the car there in the winter. There's enough height, so I hung the body/body buck in the back up against the ceiling. The SE still fits. Barely.

One hint, while I'm thinking about it. There are a number of threads where guys are asking about their dash placement on the 3/4 inch dash hoop. Also about the clearance between the cockpit lip around the dash. I've been one of the advocates to actually temporarily place the body on the chassis during the build to get this all sorted out. With my body off-site, plus not the easiest to get up and down, I took the opportunity to check all that out while the body was still on from the initial delivery. I measured and made notes of exactly where the body is sitting in reference to the dash hoop. I also used a Sharpie and marked a line on the body lip 1/4 inch from the dash hoop. This gives me enough information to mount the dash with confidence, and also for the initial trim on the body during final assembly. I suspect the body will be in a slightly different position (mainly height) with all the aluminum and bulb seal in place, but this is still good enough to get me started.

With the body up and out of the way, I got the frame up on the 2-post. This is my first build from the start with the 2-post. I'm going to like this! Now for some pics.

Taking the body off for the first time, using my hi-tech ceiling hooks and pullies. What can I say? It works.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3284_zps4tzxnccz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3284_zps4tzxnccz.jpg.html)

Body buck frame using frame cart for wheels, when needed:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3286_zpsiwjjxpel.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3286_zpsiwjjxpel.jpg.html)

Body buck all done:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3288_zpsgafwf2ld.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3288_zpsgafwf2ld.jpg.html)

Hung from the ceiling at our storage unit. For peace of mind, as an afterthought I added some 2x4 braces to the floor. Almost for sure not needed, but will help me sleep at night. You can see what's left of the 2015 Mustang IRS pallet. Hope there's some Craigslist/eBay value there.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3291_zpsoyg53xfi.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3291_zpsoyg53xfi.jpg.html)

Just fits: (SE needs a bath...)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3292_zpsuujrlord.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3292_zpsuujrlord.jpg.html)

Now the fun begins:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3293_zpsg9bnzgas.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3293_zpsg9bnzgas.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3294_zps3wrk0ucz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Delivery/IMG_3294_zps3wrk0ucz.jpg.html)

In the true spirit of all good projects deserve a little spilled blood, I had a bit of an incident yesterday. I was working hard and fast trying to get the buck done and then away for the evening at a Woodward Dream Cruise event. In the process, I was working inside the body with it on the buck. I stepped out going to the next thing and managed to catch my foot on the door sill. While trying to catch myself and thinking "Don't break the body…" I proceeded to face plant myself right onto the steel door sill of the frame sitting next to the body. A really hard hit and scared myself to say the least. I immediately went for the ice and surveyed the damage. Man was I lucky. Got myself in the cheekbone and gave myself a bloody nose. But no teeth, eyes, nose, whatever. This morning I woke up plenty sore and with a beautiful black eye. And no there won't be any pictures. Moral of the story, we all really need to be careful and go at the right pace and stop when we get tired. I was lucky this time.

OK, enough of that. Next update will be installing the front suspension and steering rack. I don't have the spindles yet, so can't be a complete job. But I'll get started. First step will be installing the first pieces of aluminum, the F-panels. First sighting for those white powder coated pieces. I've got some white painted rivets and will try those.

[David Hodgkins]

Wow Paul I'm so jealous. I shoulda' pulled the trigger. It's a great kit loaded to the hilt and then some. I really like the new wheels with the milled outer radius. The special-edition gauges alone are a great add. And man, that IRS is STOUT. Wilwoods too? As part of the kit?? Sha-weet!

A Coyote will be awesome and follow the prototype so there's a ton of factory support to count on. BTW Wookies love and support Coyote builds, though we can never have one of our own... :(

Can't wait to watch you create/re-create those finishing touches that got you best overall at the Open House. Your last is your best and I can't wait to see what you come up with this time.

:)

[edwardb]

Wow Paul I'm so jealous. I shoulda' pulled the trigger. It's a great kit loaded to the hilt and then some. I really like the new wheels with the milled outer radius. The special-edition gauges alone are a great add. And man, that IRS is STOUT. Wilwoods too? As part of the kit?? Sha-weet!

A Coyote will be awesome and follow the prototype so there's a ton of factory support to count on. BTW Wookies love and support Coyote builds, though we can never have one of our own... :(

Can't wait to watch you create/re-create those finishing touches that got you best overall at the Open House. Your last is your best and I can't wait to see what you come up with this time.

:)

Thanks for the kind words David! Yea, it's a sweet kit. I can't wait to see how it turns out either! But then I enjoy the process too much, so don't want to be in too big of a hurry. :cool:

[edwardb]

Time for my first real assembly progress update. You guys asked for details, so you're going to get it. :D

Over the last few days, I've completed the front suspension. At least as far as I can go without spindles. One of the items on my backorder list. First was the two F panels. These are part of the set of aluminum pieces powdercoated white as part of the Anniversary Edition. It's kind of a satin white. Not glossy. It's unusual is all I can say at this point. Will be interesting to see the total effect of all the engine compartment white PC. With the parts already coated but not test mounted, drilled, etc., it's a little different. I'm trying to handle them carefully, use tape, etc. to keep from marking them up. First order of business was to put a row of 10-32 nutserts in the back edge for the front splash guards. I've done this on my previous builds, and really like the serviceability. Another hint is to cut a 5/8 inch (or so) square from the top back corners. A similar cutout will be made in the front splash guards. This provides room for the convolute tubing and wiring along the outside edges of the hood surround. BTW, nice touch the PS didn't have the Mustang top radiator hose cutout, then requiring a fill panel. I used white silicone from HD and white rivets from McMaster. I tried to use a light touch with the pneumatic rivet gun, but the painted rivets still get marked up a bit. They look OK though. You can also see I put a bunch of painters tape on the exposed chassis powder coat in the area I'll be working for a while. Trying to keep from scratching up the PC, like I may have done on the last build. (!)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3304_zpsokiiukmv.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3304_zpsokiiukmv.jpg.html)

Next I hung the lower control arms. Nothing much to say there. Once the PC was cleaned out of the holes, they bolted up fine. Note that I put a little red dot from a paint pen on all bolts that are tightened to the torque spec. Just a visual reminder to make sure I do them all. Once the build is done, the paint can be easily removed with a little lacquer thinner if needed. Then I put in the Breeze PS rack, the upper control arms with ball joints, and then the Koni shocks. The shock bolts are just finger tight for now. I figure I'll move them out of the way when it's time to bolt in the spindles.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3303_zpsvkdrko3r.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3303_zpsvkdrko3r.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3305_zpsa3rg71g8.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3305_zpsa3rg71g8.jpg.html)

This is another pic of the Breeze PS rack. Nothing too earthshaking here. But a couple words. I used this same 3.0 turn Unisteer rack on my current Mk4, and for my purposes (mostly street driving) it's perfect. Since I bought and installed the last one, Mark at Breeze now provides them in PC black vs. silver, and also provides them with the rack extenders and extended boots already installed. Nice. He also includes a pair of limiters, in case you need them. I'll wait on those for now to see if I need them. I installed the rack with Mark's #70634 offset rack mounting kit, which I've used a couple times before. Centering for a Mk4 is not a big issue. This one was perfect, like my last Mk4. But the bushings, in addition to being solid vs. slightly flexible, move the rack slightly forward and slightly down. Forward is good because it helps the boots clear the chassis a little better. Down supposedly helps with bump steer, although with the newer geometry of the Mk4 and FF spindles, I'm not sure that's a big deal any more. Also in this pic you can see the -6AN adapters for the PS hoses. Those are from Maximum Motorsports.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3306_zpskbamsmv3.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3306_zpskbamsmv3.jpg.html)

So I've had two issues so far. One was the upper ball joints. I received (like many) the Mevotech upper ball joints with my kit. And like many, they were too tight. No amount of freezing and heating did anything other than get a questioning look from my wife when I took the ball joints out of the freezer. I couldn't get more than 1-2 turns before they basically locked solid and I just wasn't going to crank on them like many have. I'm sure FF would have replaced them, but probably with more of the same. Like many, I decided to just spend the $17 each and change to Moog K772's. Well, we're having fun now. I received two very quickly from Amazon (best price) and one fit both sides perfectly, the other wouldn't even start threading. No amount of messing around changed anything. So I returned it and had a replacement a couple days later. Guess what? Same thing. Two out of three Moog parts wouldn't work. Note the one good one fit either UCA perfectly. The other two neither. OK, now I'm really frustrated. Read multiple forum posts, both ours and others, and found many guys are using Howe Racing ball joints. Yea, I know, now $60+ each. Budget? What budget? But how much is frustration worth? Received the Howe Racing 22320S ball joints this AM from Summit. Both fit perfectly. Used blue Loctite, and gave them a hefty tug while in the vise, same as shown in the manual. Then put a red paint mark that I'll keep an eye on. I'm confident they're not going anywhere though. In addition to being obviously high quality parts, they are serviceable and rebuildable.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3309_zpsdsqswcae.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3309_zpsdsqswcae.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

The second issue was with the Koni 2812 double-adjustable aluminum body coil-over shocks. The manual says to install the standard Koni front shocks body UP. But the Koni instructions for these shocks quite emphatically says they are to be installed body DOWN. Something about the special valving in this shock type only functions correctly when installed down. And Factory Five does have them installed body down in their 20th Anniversary Roadster. So that's what I did. But I then realized the body interfered slightly with the LCA. In fact, if you look closely at the pics FF has on their website of their 20th Anniversary Roadster, you can see divots in the shock body from the interference. I decided not to duplicate this feature. Using a cut-off wheel and then a small air belt sander, I removed the interference from the two sides and back and confirmed clearance with the shock at full extension and compression. It's not a lot, so I'm confident the strength of the LCA is not affected. Here are three pics. Before, after trimming, and then with the shock back in place. Before assembling, I touched up the bare metal with gloss black POR15, which matches the black PC perfectly.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3297_zpsc1pmekpw.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3297_zpsc1pmekpw.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3300_zpst37gec7g.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3300_zpst37gec7g.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3302_zpssmmxiiaq.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3302_zpssmmxiiaq.jpg.html)

The outer tie rod ends supplied with the kit are absolutely fine, and will work perfectly. But I happen to like these Moog ES2150RL parts instead. In addition to maybe slightly higher quality, it's very likely not necessary to cut length off the inner tie rod. I used this same rack and these ends on my current Mk4, and no trimming was necessary. Also, because of the design, the threads are fully engaged and the excess goes into the pocket of the piece. No need to watch for the minimum one inch of thread engagement. I don't like changing out perfectly good parts. But these are nice and I chose them again.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3307_zps8zatpfpe.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3307_zps8zatpfpe.jpg.html)

Finally, something a little interesting. The 20th Anniversary kit comes with front and rear sway bars. The rear setup is clearly pictured in the new IRS announcement. But I wasn't sure how the front would be done, since I don't have instructions that reference any of this yet. But what I did notice was an extension on the front chassis tube end with two holes. Different than my current Mk4 for sure. Guess what lines up into that extension and bolts there? I'm betting this:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3308_zpskenx6w08.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3308_zpskenx6w08.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3310_zpszkddugnb.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3310_zpszkddugnb.jpg.html)

I wonder if these attachment points will be standard on all Mk4 kits now? If so, nice improvement for guys that want to add a sway bar and not have to do some of the mods I've seen. I received two of the pictured sway bars. They are .875 inch, from a company called Flyin Miata. For 90-93 Miatas. Is that allowed?? I have some of the pieces, but not all for where it attaches to the LCA. There are rod ends and then a bracket of some kind. More later!

I'm still waiting for backordered parts (no shipments yet…) and especially some of the major missing IRS components. I've got plenty of other things to work on for now, so no panic. Yet.

[ehansen007]

Wow! that is some setup! Very Jealous. Can't wait to see this one! Haven't seen that swaybar setup yet but it's very cool. Should help a ton. I want pictures of it cornering. For me I'm sticking with the period correct, classic wheelie stance which was popular at the time. :)

44535

Good luck and don't worry about the backorders, it's when you get your backorder and it's wrong! LOL. Seriously though I've had some serious discussions with the crew over there QC is their next big endeavor.

[BobCarter]

Edwardb-
The installation instructions for the IRS and Sway bar are now available. I am sending them to your email address.
Best Regards BC

[edwardb]

Edwardb-The installation instructions for the IRS and Sway bar are now available. I am sending them to your email address. Best Regards BC

Bob -- Got 'em! Huge thanks.

[carlewms]

I finally got around to reading the entire thread ... WOW is the word that best describes all of this beautiful work.

With respect to the installation of the Breeze solid bushings ... Did you have grind off any part of the mounts mentioned in his instructions?

Again thanks for the detail you provide us guys building our first one of these.

[edwardb]

I finally got around to reading the entire thread ... WOW is the word that best describes all of this beautiful work.

With respect to the installation of the Breeze solid bushings ... Did you have grind off any part of the mounts mentioned in his instructions?

Again thanks for the detail you provide us guys building our first one of these.

You're certainly welcome. Fun to share, and always happy to hear it's appreciated. For the Breeze bushings -- no, didn't have to do any trimming as described in the instructions. Didn't have to trim anything on the previous Mk4 either. I guess things have changed since those were written.

[edwardb]

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3310_zpszkddugnb.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3310_zpszkddugnb.jpg.html)

I wonder if these attachment points will be standard on all Mk4 kits now? If so, nice improvement for guys that want to add a sway bar and not have to do some of the mods I've seen. I received two of the pictured sway bars. They are .875 inch, from a company called Flyin Miata. For 90-93 Miatas. Is that allowed?? I have some of the pieces, but not all for where it attaches to the LCA. There are rod ends and then a bracket of some kind. More later!

Quick follow-up on these points since I received a copy of the instructions. According to the instructions, all kits made after April 2015 have the pictured sway bar attachments points on the front of the 4 inch chassis tubes. Brackets are available for kits made before that. The attachment to the underside of the LCA's is done with rod ends attached to a longer lower shock mounting bolt. Pretty straightforward.

[edwardb]

This past week I received a copy of the IRS instructions (thanks Bob!) plus my first backorder shipment. Still a ways to go, but progress. I now have the first of the three control arms. I already had most of the hardware. But things are starting to take shape a little now. First a recap briefly mentioned in the opening post. The 2015 Mustang IRS setup requires three parts from a 2015 Mustang: The center section (differential), knuckles, and hubs. The rest of the parts are supplied by FF as part of the new IRS setup. You don't need the donor CV joints and have to install them onto new axles as in some earlier versions. FF is supplying the CV axles completed and ready to assemble into the suspension, e.g. with joints, boots, etc. Not long after ordering the kit, FF suggested I may want to start looking for the donor parts. I found complete 2015 Mustang rear suspension pallets at MPS Auto Salvage in Georgia, and picked one up. It's a "zero miles take-off" meaning the newly assembled Mustang went from the factory in Flat Rock, MI to an aftermarket performance assembly line and part of their upgrade is to replace the entire rear IRS assembly. The new IRS setup is beefy, but apparently not up to the task of the 800-900 HP aftermarket engine mods, stickier tires, etc. Although I only need a few parts off the pallet, at the time MPS wasn't selling them separately. Some other places were, but the cost for the individual pieces was higher. So, received the pallet looking like this:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3232_zpstnxjuce6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3232_zpstnxjuce6.jpg.html)

Removed the parts I needed. I'm hoping to sell the balance and recover some of the cost. In total, should be a pretty good deal. The 3.55 center section case is cast iron, and posi like all new Mustang diffs.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3250_zpswrdk8tzr.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3250_zpswrdk8tzr.jpg.html)

The cast iron center section had some surface rust. Not unexpected. The hubs too had a little surface rust. But the parts appeared to be exactly as advertised. Basically brand new parts. A little wire wheel action and the rust was removed off the cast iron. After thorough cleaning and degreasing, applied some POR15 to the iron and clear Dupli-Color engine spray to the rear aluminum cover. Now ready for installation.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3256_zpsmoqf2oqg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3256_zpsmoqf2oqg.jpg.html)

The knuckles require a piece of one of the arms to be cut off. I saw this in the pictures and write-up, but waited until the instructions were in hand giving the details. The instructions give the location and shows using a Sawzall. I don't own one, plus prefer a little more "civilized" approach. With some blocks clamped to hold the knuckles square, I cut them with a band saw. Took it slow and easy and worked fine. A little scary though, lopping off those pieces.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3312_zpsduagjtnq.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3312_zpsduagjtnq.jpg.html)

Cleaned up the cut using a disk sander, and then filed and sanded a little radius. I went over the complete knuckles and knocked off some of the larger casting parting lines and just cleaned up in general, and then gave them a quick coat of clear Duplic-Color like the center section. Not required at all, but I've had good luck with this stuff and should stay looking clean and nice for a while. I think they're good to go.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3313_zpseggkeiwg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3313_zpseggkeiwg.jpg.html)

The standard Mustang wheel wheel studs need to be changed to 1/2 x 20, same as the supplied front hubs and matching the lug nuts provided with the FF wheels. The 10 new wheel studs are included with the kit. The instructions show hitting the old ones out with a hammer. I chose instead to use a short piece of black pipe and squeeze them out using my bench vise. Took some muscle, but worked OK. The instructions showed putting the new ones back in with a lug nut, washer and a ratchet. I'm apparently not strong enough because that didn't work for me. Mainly I think because it's impossible to hold the hub while putting that much torque on it. So I rummaged through my junk hardware drawer and found a hardened 1/2 x 20 nut and few hardened washers. Lubed them up good with some assembly lube, and pulled all the studs in with an air impact driver. A press would be ideal to remove and replace the wheel studs, and thought maybe I had an excuse to finally buy one. But no luck. Managed without it. Then cleaned up the exposed parts of the hubs and also applied some POR15 and put them back in the knuckles. Note this is one of many changes with the new IRS parts. The axle bearing is in a bolted in carrier. No longer necessary to press the axle bearings in and out of the aluminum knuckle itself. Also note the little cover and screw in the knuckle just above the hub. This is where the standard ABS sensor is normally mounted. I'm not going to try an ABS installation, so don't need the sensor. But didn't want to leave an open hole directly down into the axle bearings. So made a little cover out of 1/8 inch aluminum and used the sensor mounting screw to hold it in place.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3315_zpsmnvepjug.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3315_zpsmnvepjug.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

So in yesterday's shipment, I received the IRS toe arms. That with the hardware already received this is starting to shape up. Here is the PS knuckle with the toe arm attached at the bottom, and the hardware for the upper control arm temporarily attached to the now trimmed arm.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3316_zpsocr8bgf6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3316_zpsocr8bgf6.jpg.html)

Here is the complete toe arm. Note how the setup will allow adjustments without disassembly. For the toe arm and upper control arm. Nice. The lower control arm is fixed BTW.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3318_zpsm34bqf8o.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3318_zpsm34bqf8o.jpg.html)

Last shot of the PS knuckle, showing all three attachment points. The lower control arm attaches to the shorter leg, which is also the same location the coilover attaches. Someone asked in my previous thread about the IRS whether the Ford installed bushings in the two lower arms would be used. Apparently the answer is yes. No new parts received and no instructions to remove existing. Good thing, because they look pretty solidly installed. The upper control arm location is bolted in as shown, with the provided rod end. Nothing to remove or add there either.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3319_zpsc7and7oa.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3319_zpsc7and7oa.jpg.html)

Hopefully the next pics will be with all this installed, once I receive the arms and the last pieces of hardware. Meanwhile, still plenty to work on. Work is underway on the Wilwood pedal box, and yes, we still have the famous clutch arm frame interference. Will probably do the same mod as the previous Mk4.

[RRussellTx]

VERY impressive - This is extremely helpful information and very much appreciated!
Thank you for sharing!!

What did you use for the general cleanup of the aluminum knuckles?

[edwardb]

VERY impressive - This is extremely helpful information and very much appreciated!
Thank you for sharing!!

What did you use for the general cleanup of the aluminum knuckles?

Thanks and you're welcome. Some files to knock off the parting lines, then just a couple different light wire wheels in a hand drill, some emery cloth, and then some Scotch-Brite pads. I've seen some really nice results guys have done on the previous style knuckles with media or bead blasting and even clear powder coat. But I kept it simple with stuff I had around the house. Nothing very fancy and certainly optional.

[wirelessnut]

Love seeing the progress your making on your build.
I just picked up my kit last weekend. I also picked up the IRS center and spindles from FF while I was there, saved the shipping costs. FF is starting to supply them also. I have not seen them in the parts catalog yet, but if you ask, you can get.
the IRS center I received is also aluminum, not cast iron. I know the IRS manual says to use the cast unit only but they assured me it was just because the flange adapter hadn't been designed at the time.

[edwardb]

Love seeing the progress your making on your build. I just picked up my kit last weekend. I also picked up the IRS center and spindles from FF while I was there, saved the shipping costs. FF is starting to supply them also. I have not seen them in the parts catalog yet, but if you ask, you can get. The IRS center I received is also aluminum, not cast iron. I know the IRS manual says to use the cast unit only but they assured me it was just because the flange adapter hadn't been designed at the time.

Congratulations on your new kit! #8675, next in line after mine. Also a 20th Anniversary Edition? Yea I knew FF is offering the IRS parts. They offered me a set as well, but happened after I had shopped around and found them on my own. They actually bought out the supply of the zero mile take-offs from the same place I got mine. I wonder if that's what they're still offering? I also knew they said a aluminum center was OK, and I would have taken it if available, but the only 3.55 available at the time was the cast iron version. They are definitely stronger, which is why Ford is only putting aluminum in automatic Mustangs, and cast iron in sticks. But for our purposes, given the much lighter weight, I'm sure the aluminum is still way plenty strong enough. Other than the 20 pounds or so of extra weight (much like me, but let's not go there...) I'm not sure there's any downside to the cast iron case other than a little extra heft to lift into place. Keep us posted on your build!

[wirelessnut]

Congratulations on your new kit! #8675, next in line after mine. Also a 20th Anniversary Edition? Yea I knew FF is offering the IRS parts. They offered me a set as well, but happened after I had shopped around and found them on my own. They actually bought out the supply of the zero mile take-offs from the same place I got mine. I wonder if that's what they're still offering? I also knew they said a aluminum center was OK, and I would have taken it if available, but the only 3.55 available at the time was the cast iron version. They are definitely stronger, which is why Ford is only putting aluminum in automatic Mustangs, and cast iron in sticks. But for our purposes, given the much lighter weight, I'm sure the aluminum is still way plenty strong enough. Other than the 20 pounds or so of extra weight (much like me, but let's not go there...) I'm not sure there's any downside to the cast iron case other than a little extra heft to lift into place. Keep us posted on your build!

No, I didn't get the Anniversary Edition. As much as I would have liked, the budget just wouldn't allow it. If all goes well with this build (as it should), I'll be eyeing a 25th Edition.
I had already been picking up parts for the build when FF started the 20 days of specials. Saved a bunch on the 50/50 deals. Glad I waited for the new IRS, but now I have and older version Aluminum IRS I'll need to sell. I did the same as you and picked up the kit at FF. Made a road trip of it with my 18Yr. old son and 21Yr. old daughter.
I'm still doing inventory on my kit. I have a bunch of work to do on the garage to prep it for the build. I'll post some pics as soon as there is progress.

[ThickCobra]

Edwardb,

Fantastic build thread. And, it's very timely for me as I am anxiuously awaiting delivery of my Anniversary addition (and first build) this coming week. For a few years now, I've thought of building the Cobra. I have followed the forums and recently committed to diving in by starting with the build school a few months back. I have reached out to a few individuals and think I now have most of my ducks in a row. And, now with your build thread...I'm ready to go. And, I had a garage to finish to "make things happen".

Keep us updated on your progress. It's much appreciated.

[edwardb]

It's been an eventful week wrapping up several smaller details that I had started. I've received two boxes of backordered/missing parts, with two more due here tomorrow. This list is getting shorter, but I'm still missing the upper and lower IRS control arms and the CV axles. So I'm unable to make much progress with the highly anticipated new IRS. But then I decided why not install the center section in the frame? Now that would be progress. The good news is that it's installed and looking good. But it was somewhat challenging. I'll describe more, but first some smaller stuff.

I cleaned and painted the pedal box mounts, assembled them to the Wilwood pedal box, and checked the fit in the DS footbox. As mentioned in my last update, immediately noted that the clutch arm interference with the 3/4 inch chassis tube that crosses in that area remains an issue. This subject has been discussed and debated at length, including the background, various options to fix, etc. I'm not going to repeat all that here. Multiple threads on the topics. I decided to do the same frame mod that was done on #7750, which is similar to the frame mod Whitby does for their power brake kit. Cut out the interference, then make a plug for each end of the opening, and bridge with another bolted on piece. This approach has also been done by others, and IMO works very well and easily is as strong as the unmodified frame. I used an air saw to remove the roughly two inch section where the interference occurs. Then used some 5/8 inch square mild steel to make the plugs, and some 3/4 inch square mild steel to make the bridge piece. Aluminum would probably be just fine, but I was duplicating what worked well before. Here are the final pieces ready to install alongside the piece that was removed. I made the plugs as long as they could be to still fit into the opening and push into the ends. The front piece had to be trimmed a bit to clear some weld that penetrated the tube in that area.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008282015/IMG_3320_zpsjxdygeeg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008282015/IMG_3320_zpsjxdygeeg.jpg.html)

I sprayed some paint on the parts that showed. After a couple attempts, found some rattle can paint that matches the 20th Anniversary powder coat reasonably well: Rust-Oleum High Performance Wheel Paint, color 248930 GRAPHITE. It was in the automotive section of our local HD. The piece here doesn't show once the build is done, but still didn't want to leave it bare and wanted to find something that matched pretty close in case I needed it elsewhere during the build. Here are the parts installed. I buttered the plugs with JB Weld before pushing in and bolting it up. Rock solid.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008282015/IMG_3336_zps2eqmup17.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008282015/IMG_3336_zps2eqmup17.jpg.html)

Just to give an idea of the interference, tried to get a couple pictures. Not too easy to show very well because of the angles. This is the clutch pedal all the way to the back wall, from the side and the top. I found that if I want the clutch pedal to be even with the brake pedal (important to me) and use the standard Forte hydraulic setup, this is the amount of travel that it needs. Maybe it's just my memory (very possible) but this actually seems like more interference than my previous Mk4. Some guys have decided to notch the clutch arm to clear. Not my choice (again not debating here) and especially since it would go nearly halfway through the arm in this case. Not sure if something has changed or not. Whatever, problem solved for this build.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008282015/IMG_3339_zpseqcyw4uk.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008282015/IMG_3339_zpseqcyw4uk.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008282015/IMG_3344_markup_zpstoutufeh.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008282015/IMG_3344_markup_zpstoutufeh.jpg.html)

So, moving on, installed the master cylinders on the pedal box. FF now supplies 3/4 inch for the front, and 5/8 inch for the back. Doesn't say which side to put them on. I don't think it matters though, as long as it's plumbed properly. I chose the front toward the center of the car. I was a little interested that this is the first time I've seen these MC's without Wilwood cast into the side. Something generic, not Wilwood? Or did Wilwood just change them? Oh well. As mentioned, I'm going to be installing a hydraulic clutch setup, which I don't have yet. So nothing installed on the clutch side yet.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008282015/IMG_3338_zpshqojqbde.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008282015/IMG_3338_zpshqojqbde.jpg.html)

One small detail on the bottom of the footbox. FF provides a small bracket and a switch for the brake lights, which I installed per the instructions. The Ron Francis harness also includes a clutch interlock, meaning the clutch pedal needs to be down for the engine to start. I want this feature, so like on my last build, made a clone of the provided FF bracket from 1/8 inch steel and bolted it in the proper position on the clutch side. I don't have the switch yet. Not the best picture (sorry for the focus) but you get the idea. Upon further review, seems there might be something in the Coyote setup and wiring to also provide the no start function. We'll see if this gets used.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008282015/IMG_3349_markup_zpsij5i0ixz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008282015/IMG_3349_markup_zpsij5i0ixz.jpg.html)

I temporarily installed the steering column. I haven't completely decided what's happening with the footbox sheet metal. Will likely be the King modified panels, so until I get that worked out and mocked up, not attaching the footbox front yet. I found it was necessary to install the footbox front steering column bearing on the inside. Not a big deal, since this is a common change when space is at a premium on the front of the footbox. But in this case seems the output shaft from the Breeze supplied Unisteer PS rack is slightly longer than usual. The adapter is all the way on, but still a few splines are showing. End result is the shaft wouldn't plug onto the adapter with the bearing on the outside of the footbox. So moved it inside and all is good. What I wanted to show though was I found in my last two builds that sometimes it's nearly impossible to get all the play out of the collapsing steering column. Even with the supplied Belleville washers properly installed. The slightest amount of play is noticeable and undesirable, especially in these cars. Some guys wedge shims up between the column pieces. I tried that before and didn't like it too much. What I've ended up doing is to install two 8-32 set screws in each side of the column. Once everything is assembled, I use a little red Loctite and just lightly tighten them against the inner column. Removes any remaining play, and doesn't defeat the collapsing capability. A little hard to see, but here's where I installed them:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008282015/IMG_3357_markup_zpswejjponq.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008282015/IMG_3357_markup_zpswejjponq.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Finally, before moving onto the main event, I installed couplers for the rear bumpers. Now is the time before any sheet metal or tank mounting. For new builders, the stock setup, especially now with the Mk4 where everything back there is really tight, the tank must be dropped to install/remove the rear bumpers or quick jacks, whatever you install. With the couplers, no longer necessary to drop the tank. I happen to like 7/16-20, because that's the threaded rod and hardware I use. Any similar size is good. Just one very small hint though. Pay attention to where you bolt these down. The holes in the frame are pretty large. Measure the vertical and horizontal locations, compared to the holes in the body and the bumper if you're going to use one. If you stack all the tolerances one direction, it's possible to be off 1/8 inch (or more) and complicates final assembly when that time comes. Ask me how I know…

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008282015/IMG_3360_zpsn0kisl6g.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008282015/IMG_3360_zpsn0kisl6g.jpg.html)

Ok, so finally to the center section installation. The Factory Five instructions show this installation needing a friend. Well, I have friends (really!) but most not available during my leisure retirement hours or in the immediate area. I'm mainly a solo act. So in this case my friend was the trusty shop crane. Obviously this is the only time this method would be usable. Once all the sheet metal is in place, it's would be all hands on deck working from the bottom. You have to tip it a lot to get it into place, so at first I messed around a bit with my engine leveler. That was overkill, and I ended up just using the same ratcheting pulleys I use to raise and lower the body adjusting each as I went. At 90+ pounds this thing gets your attention, but it's manageable. The pictures pretty much tell the story.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3322_zpsqbnptkqv.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3322_zpsqbnptkqv.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3324_zpsaxcegcv7.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3324_zpsaxcegcv7.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3327_zpshnukpuzk.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3327_zpshnukpuzk.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3329_zps9a27iwao.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3329_zps9a27iwao.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3330_zps4eidfm7f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3330_zps4eidfm7f.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3331_zpsguicvdtz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3331_zpsguicvdtz.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

So it's all in and looks great. But here, as they say, is the rest of the story. First, it's a TIGHT FIT. Once the center section is finally in the right position over the frame rail, it takes some serious persuasion to get it lined up. Due to the angles of the mountings, I found it necessary to get above the attachment points, and push it down from above. First align the rear bolts since they're threaded into the rear cover. Once they're started in, leave them loose and go to the front bolts. Here's where I hit the wall. Because it's so tight, it's nearly impossible to move a little at a time. Plus it seemed a little off center. I was using a 2x4 and a dead blow hammer, and then moved up to a small 4-lb sledge. Thought about the next sized sledge I could get my hands on, but time to stop beating on this thing. A 5/8 inch bolt goes through the two center section front mounts, and into bushed sleeves in the chassis. The alignment has to be perfect or the bolts either won't go in or just start pushing the sleeves out. After a while and increased frustration, I decided it was time to stop and think about this. Sometimes that's the best option.

Several things occurred to me. First, all the tolerances are really tight. One of the preparation steps for the center section is to "chase" (as the instructions say) the front mounts with a 5/8 inch drill. The existing hole is probably about 1/2 inch diameter. I bought a brand new 5/8 inch bit to also drill out one of the holes in the knuckles, so used it here as well. It was quite challenging because it really wanted to grab. A step drill would be a much better choice, but I didn't have one that would work. But if I had to do it over, I might drill the holes slightly oversize. But impossible to do once it's in the chassis. Next I decided something tapered to drive into the holes and line them up would be ideal. Something like ironworkers use called a bull pin. Even better would be two. I found what I was looking for on-line at a local tool store, but it was way too long to fit into the available space and I wasn't going to buy a new tool and cut it up. Then it occurred to me to modify the temporary 5/8 inch bolts I picked up at our local Ace (the real bolts are on my backorder list) and make my own alignment pins. So after sleeping on it, spun the two bolts I had on my disk sander, making a nice long taper and pretty much removing all the threads. Looked like this when done:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3351_zpsrfmo05qr.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3351_zpsrfmo05qr.jpg.html)

I put some assembly lube on them, and guess what? Relatively light taps from side to side and both went all the way home with the center section all lined up. Perfect! I couldn't have imagined it would be that easy. Lightly snugged the rear bolts for now, and I'll switch the tapered pins out for the real bolts when they arrive. So, center section in, and I have to say it looks good there. Can't wait for the rest of the parts to finish it up.

We're off next week for nine days visiting family on the left coast. So, no progress or updates for a bit. Hope to get some of the key parts by the time we're back.

[BobCarter]

EdwardP- may I ask, what is the white material visible inside the coupler? Looks a bit like white Grease...
Also, did you reinstall the body shell to check alignment of couplers to body holes? Reason I ask is there appears to be traces of red on the coupler ends. I kinda doubt you went to all the trouble of reinstalling the shell but I'm curious what could have left a red trace in some areas of the coupler end.
NICE work on your solo install of the center section. I have been developing a strategy for my solo install too. I do not have a shop hoist so I will probably use my John Deere (6000 series). A bit over-kill but when you are working alone sometimes one needs all the muscle they can find! Great improvisation on the alignment pins as well. I can tell you are a guy who takes on a challenge with creativity and lots of ceiling study at night.

[BobCarter]

EdwardP- I too have an affinity now for POR15. The challenge I face is preserving the expensive POR 15 from one painting session till the next. I have used plastic wrap to help reseal the open container, used cheap chip brushes which I discard afer each use etc. but after following your build thread and seeing howmany items you coat with the stuff I was wondering what your method is for maintaining a fresh (unskinned surface) POR product? Its great stuff but difficult to keep fresh.

[BobCarter]

Sorry, should have addressed the previous posts to Edwardb not Edwardp. Oops

[edwardb]

What is the white material visible inside the coupler? Looks a bit like white Grease... Also, did you reinstall the body shell to check alignment of couplers to body holes? Reason I ask is there appears to be traces of red on the coupler ends. I kinda doubt you went to all the trouble of reinstalling the shell but I'm curious what could have left a red trace in some areas of the coupler end.

Nothing going on with the couplers. Just plain threads inside and no red on the outside. Probably just reflections or from the flash. I use an external flash for fill on most shots. No, I didn't install the body shell. It's still comfortably hanging over at the storage unit. I did confirm the measurements though. The holes are exactly 31 inches apart horizontally, and 2-1/4 inches apart vertically. I mounted the couplers with the same spacing. I didn't pay attention to this on the last build, and had to enlarge the holes in the body quite a bit during final assembly. Not a big deal, but just trying to avoid this time around.


The challenge I face is preserving the expensive POR 15 from one painting session till the next. I have used plastic wrap to help reseal the open container, used cheap chip brushes which I discard afer each use etc. but after following your build thread and seeing how many items you coat with the stuff I was wondering what your method is for maintaining a fresh (unskinned surface) POR product? Its great stuff but difficult to keep fresh.

I'm still working out of the same pint can of gloss black POR15 I bought to touch up the DART block on my last build. Probably about two years ago, at least? I guess I've been lucky. I make sure the can seal is as clean as possible, lid on tight, then wrap in a plastic bag with a rubber band. Nothing really special. It stays in my pretty cool basement most of the time. Maybe that helps too.

[carlewms]

While I have the "old" IRS ... the level of pain in getting the differential into place sounds like it has not improved. I dread the day I would have to get it out now that the car is almost finished.

Did you have to do any trimming of the diff or other parts to get it into place?

Looking great ...

[edwardb]

Did you have to do any trimming of the diff or other parts to get it into place?

No, only mods were per the instructions. The center section is completely stock with the exception of drilling out the front mounts for the 5/8 inch mounting bolts. The knuckles have the one arm trimmed shorter, as posted, plus one hole drilled out.

[patb]

No, only mods were per the instructions. The center section is completely stock with the exception of drilling out the front mounts for the 5/8 inch mounting bolts. The knuckles have the one arm trimmed shorter, as posted, plus one hole drilled out.
Finally received my Fortes hydroboost and started to install. I see you installed your master cylinders. I thought you where using a Fortes hydroboost. The unit I received does not have the brake peddel riser to attach to the push rods of the two cylinders. Do I have the wrong peddel. I thought the brake cylinders on the Forte unit where already mounted on the front of the hydroboost.

[edwardb]

Finally received my Fortes hydroboost and started to install. I see you installed your master cylinders. I thought you where using a Fortes hydroboost. The unit I received does not have the brake peddel riser to attach to the push rods of the two cylinders. Do I have the wrong peddel. I thought the brake cylinders on the Forte unit where already mounted on the front of the hydroboost.

No, I'm not using hydroboost on this build. It will be the stock two MC Wilwood manual setup that I pictured. I did use the Forte hydroboost setup on a Wilwood pedal box on my last build, so quite familiar with the configuration. For that build, I also received the Wilwood pedal box from Forte, who did the modification to fit the hydroboost. It doesn't use the standard two MC mounting locations or existing pushrod or balance bar. Forte adds a new pushrod below the pedal pivot point to actuate the hydroboost/MC. Completely different than what's pictured here.

[edwardb]

We’ve been back from our Oregon family visit for a little over a week now, and back on the build. While we were gone, several packages of parts arrived. Really happy to receive the spindles, which are now installed. Also received the driveshaft, even though I won’t need it for a long time. Also received a box of a number of smaller items. So the good news, I’m down to 8 backorder/missing parts. The bad news is that this includes the rear UCA’s, LCA’s, CV axles, and Wilwood brakes. So I’m not able to make any progress with the rear suspension, or install the brakes. Kits after mine are being delivered with some of these parts. Grrr… Back on the phone Monday.

Used some of the time off to finalize some of the build plans, and order some more stuff. In other words, spend money… Decided to go ahead with GAS-N SS sidepipes. Even though the kit came with FF SS sidepipes, I’ve used the GAS-N’s on my previous builds, and love the looks, sound and overall quality. Got hold of Georgie and they’re already here. Works of art. Also going with the custom SS stainless headers. Called GP Headers (not Stainless Headers any more) and should have the Coyote double collector pipes in a few weeks. No hurry. Ordered and received an in-tank fuel pump from Breeze. Ordered and received a turn signal assembly from Russ Thompson along with my machined steering wheel hub. Found Russ also offers a trunk expansion box. I was going to make my own, but decided to get the one from Russ. Like all his stuff, it’s first class. Thanks to another forum member who contacted me, I also received a box of King DS Coyote mod panels and firewall that he decided not to use. Huge thanks. These forums are an amazing resource. I was considering making them myself. Now that I see them, would have been challenging.

So for some build updates, first thing was to get the newly received spindles installed. Everything went fine. The ball joint tapers pulled in and tightened without drama. I used the FF spacer for the lower ball joint, and needed a hardened washer for the Howe upper ball joints. The hubs slipped on with no sanding or large hammers. Nice smooth fit. Torqued the spindles nuts to 250 ft-lbs, which I’ve now decided is my personal limit. Ouch. As you can see from the pics, I pried off the tone rings. I have no plans for ABS, plus I think they’re kind of ugly. Then I put some POR15 on the back side of the hubs. Can’t help myself.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3381_zpskpel3ybs.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3381_zpskpel3ybs.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3396_zpsaoq9daop.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3396_zpsaoq9daop.jpg.html)

I did a SWAG on the UCA for camber and caster, and then used a magnetic laser level to get the toe in the ballpark. I mainly wanted to do a sanity check on the length of the inner tie rods. I have about 1 inch of threads left on both sides of the threaded section on the tie rod ends. So there will be no cutting required. This the second time I’ve used this combination of Breeze PS rack and Moog tie rod ends. Perfect. Yes I know the cotter key isn’t installed in the castle nut yet. Later.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3385_zpsztw8rst5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3385_zpsztw8rst5.jpg.html)

The final item to wrap up the front suspension was the sway bar. I posted pictures of the front frame mounts before. Once the sway bar is bolted on up front, it’s attached to the underside of the LCA’s using a longer bolt on the lower shock mount, two rod ends, a bolt and spacer. The instructions show cutting all but 1/2 inch of threads from the male and female rod ends. Those things are HARD! But it’s done and turned out well. The instructions didn’t say so, but I put red Loctite on the rod ends before putting them together. I don’t have instructions yet for the rear sway bar, but the parts provided are all almost exactly the same, so I’m expecting a similar setup.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3389_zpsirmov33a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3389_zpsirmov33a.jpg.html)

I decided to cut the hole in the Breeze shroud and get that part ready for powder coat. The hole follows the inner outline of the FF supplied cooling fan. I put 10-32 nutserts in the mounting hole locations, which makes it real easy to install the fan and remove if necessary for service.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3363_zpsdcu1txjv.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3363_zpsdcu1txjv.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3361_zpsrjtrcv14.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3361_zpsrjtrcv14.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

The 2015 Mustang “Super 8.8” diff has a different driveshaft mounting flange than previous 8.8’s. FF provides a very robust adapter that is held in place with six bolts, then the traditional U-joint bolts into that. The bolts need Loctite and then a pretty strong torque, and is impossible to hold with no axles, hubs, brakes, etc. You can see the note I made to myself to complete later. Bad memory needs to be managed…

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3392_zpsweoowfk1.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3392_zpsweoowfk1.jpg.html)

Other parts recently received were the final mounting bolts for the 2015 Mustang center section. I showed previously installing it. But the rear bolts were the original Ford bolts off my IRS pallet, and the front just had tapered pins I used to locate it. I suspected it would be challenging to get the four bolts all in and finally torqued. And it was. This thing is TIGHT. I dread the day it would have to come out. As I mentioned before, I would recommend drilling the 5/8 inch holes in the center section front mounting bosses slightly oversize. I think that would help a lot. With these size bolts at 100 ft-lbs, this thing isn’t going anywhere.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3393_zps7a2d5uwt.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3393_zps7a2d5uwt.jpg.html)

I mentioned the King modified DS and firewall panels. I started mocking them up a bit. Looks like they’re going to work out fine. I’m getting a blank FFMetals DS footbox front and will replace the one pictured here. I’m not going to finalize any of these panels until I have the Coyote on hand, but looks very promising right now. Should have the necessary room up top, and still plenty of room for my feet. This is probably not the exact final position, but looks like I will have similar feet space as my current small block Mk4. Perfect. I will likely also do the King PS footbox expansion. Those pieces are a bit simpler, and similar to the ones I did for my current Mk4. Looks like I'm going to have several panels to get white powder coated like the ones from FF.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3395_zpseagm5rw3.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3395_zpseagm5rw3.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3403_zpsqzvbxgad.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3403_zpsqzvbxgad.jpg.html)

Finally, I also prepped the Ron Francis fuse panel piece. First confirmed that it fit the provided fuse box OK. It was a little too tight, so adjusted a bit. Then put some holes on the edges and installed some 10-32 nutserts in the frame to mount it. There are a couple welds that needed to be flattened to get it to sit better. Plus notice how it needs the corner trimmed to clear the mounting washer/bolt for the Wilwood pedal box. I don’t like how the front outside corner of the fuse panel is just hanging in space, so similar to my last build, made a little bracket to anchor that corner. Since I’m using a shroud, the provided mild steel fan mounting brackets aren’t used. Those are great for fabbing little pieces like this. It also has a nutsert in it, and is riveted to the frame with a couple 3/16 inch rivets. It’s way overkill and much stronger than it needs to be. But does exactly what I want.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3399_zpstbm6qesz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3399_zpstbm6qesz.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3405_zpsbjdeyr55.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3405_zpsbjdeyr55.jpg.html)

Will keep forging ahead!

[ThickCobra]

Edwardb,

Just a few questions. You occasionally mention following "instructions" while assembling or installing components. For example, being required to remove threads from male and female rod ends for installation of the front sway bar. I didn't find these particular instructions with my paperwork. Also, I didn't receive instructions for the IRS installation. I called FFR and they immediately emailed the IRS instructions to me. I'm getting the feeling that there are several instruction packs, particularly for the new items, that I may be missing. I can assemble quite a few items using common sense, but sometimes I feel I'm working in the dark.

Wondering whether others are experiencing what I am?

[edwardb]

Edwardb,

Just a few questions. You occasionally mention following "instructions" while assembling or installing components. For example, being required to remove threads from male and female rod ends for installation of the front sway bar. I didn't find these particular instructions with my paperwork. Also, I didn't receive instructions for the IRS installation. I called FFR and they immediately emailed the IRS instructions to me. I'm getting the feeling that there are several instruction packs, particularly for the new items, that I may be missing. I can assemble quite a few items using common sense, but sometimes I feel I'm working in the dark.

Wondering whether others are experiencing what I am?

The big thick assembly manual that comes with the kit is useful, and I can tell you it's way better than the Mk3 manual from my first build. Night and day. But it's still missing a lot of detail, especially for first time builders. Plus it isn't always up-to-date with running changes. The release of the new IRS isn't in the manual, and they just recently released the instructions as a separate document. When I picked up my kit in early August, they were just being written. The front sway bar setup also has a separate instructions document. Ask for it. Or if you PM me your email address, I can send it to you. I haven't seen one for the rear sway bar setup yet. As cool as the 20th Anniversary Mk4 is, it's kind of on the bleeding edge in several areas. So I think we're going to need to be patient.

The two forums are also huge resources. Even after three builds, I'm routinely searching with questions or looking for ideas or details. If all else fails, ask. That's what these forums are for, and lots of us are willing to help. Don't feel like you have to work in the dark.

[BobCarter]

Thick Cobra- You are correct, there are instructions that supplement installation of both the sway bar and IRS. FFR will send these to you if you request them. Also, if you purchased wind wings and sun visors, installation instructions are available for these as well. Ask and you shall receive...


Edwardb,

Just a few questions. You occasionally mention following "instructions" while assembling or installing components. For example, being required to remove threads from male and female rod ends for installation of the front sway bar. I didn't find these particular instructions with my paperwork. Also, I didn't receive instructions for the IRS installation. I called FFR and they immediately emailed the IRS instructions to me. I'm getting the feeling that there are several instruction packs, particularly for the new items, that I may be missing. I can assemble quite a few items using common sense, but sometimes I feel I'm working in the dark.

Wondering whether others are experiencing what I am?

[BobCarter]

Edawardp- When you installed the Moog tie rod ends did you modify the steering arm to accomadate the taper of the Moog stud? I too ordered the Moog ends and see that the steering arm does not have a tapered hole to receive the mounting stud. The FFR tie rod end is not tapered and the Moog is. Just curious how you addressed this.

[BobCarter]

A note to other builders- the front lower shock mounting bolt provided by FFR used in mounting the sway bar is a bit too short and as such does not fully pass through the elastic stop nut. When installing my sway bar I became concerned about this and purchased a 3 1/2 long bolt to replace the one which was furnished with the sway bar. This longer bolt now passes fully through the nylon insert in the nut and when torqued will hold better than the shorter bolt.


We’ve been back from our Oregon family visit for a little over a week now, and back on the build. While we were gone, several packages of parts arrived. Really happy to receive the spindles, which are now installed. Also received the driveshaft, even though I won’t need it for a long time. Also received a box of a number of smaller items. So the good news, I’m down to 8 backorder/missing parts. The bad news is that this includes the rear UCA’s, LCA’s, CV axles, and Wilwood brakes. So I’m not able to make any progress with the rear suspension, or install the brakes. Kits after mine are being delivered with some of these parts. Grrr… Back on the phone Monday.

Used some of the time off to finalize some of the build plans, and order some more stuff. In other words, spend money… Decided to go ahead with GAS-N SS sidepipes. Even though the kit came with FF SS sidepipes, I’ve used the GAS-N’s on my previous builds, and love the looks, sound and overall quality. Got hold of Georgie and they’re already here. Works of art. Also going with the custom SS stainless headers. Called GP Headers (not Stainless Headers any more) and should have the Coyote double collector pipes in a few weeks. No hurry. Ordered and received an in-tank fuel pump from Breeze. Ordered and received a turn signal assembly from Russ Thompson along with my machined steering wheel hub. Found Russ also offers a trunk expansion box. I was going to make my own, but decided to get the one from Russ. Like all his stuff, it’s first class. Thanks to another forum member who contacted me, I also received a box of King DS Coyote mod panels and firewall that he decided not to use. Huge thanks. These forums are an amazing resource. I was considering making them myself. Now that I see them, would have been challenging.

So for some build updates, first thing was to get the newly received spindles installed. Everything went fine. The ball joint tapers pulled in and tightened without drama. I used the FF spacer for the lower ball joint, and needed a hardened washer for the Howe upper ball joints. The hubs slipped on with no sanding or large hammers. Nice smooth fit. Torqued the spindles nuts to 250 ft-lbs, which I’ve now decided is my personal limit. Ouch. As you can see from the pics, I pried off the tone rings. I have no plans for ABS, plus I think they’re kind of ugly. Then I put some POR15 on the back side of the hubs. Can’t help myself.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3381_zpskpel3ybs.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3381_zpskpel3ybs.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3396_zpsaoq9daop.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3396_zpsaoq9daop.jpg.html)

I did a SWAG on the UCA for camber and caster, and then used a magnetic laser level to get the toe in the ballpark. I mainly wanted to do a sanity check on the length of the inner tie rods. I have about 1 inch of threads left on both sides of the threaded section on the tie rod ends. So there will be no cutting required. This the second time I’ve used this combination of Breeze PS rack and Moog tie rod ends. Perfect. Yes I know the cotter key isn’t installed in the castle nut yet. Later.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3385_zpsztw8rst5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3385_zpsztw8rst5.jpg.html)

The final item to wrap up the front suspension was the sway bar. I posted pictures of the front frame mounts before. Once the sway bar is bolted on up front, it’s attached to the underside of the LCA’s using a longer bolt on the lower shock mount, two rod ends, a bolt and spacer. The instructions show cutting all but 1/2 inch of threads from the male and female rod ends. Those things are HARD! But it’s done and turned out well. The instructions didn’t say so, but I put red Loctite on the rod ends before putting them together. I don’t have instructions yet for the rear sway bar, but the parts provided are all almost exactly the same, so I’m expecting a similar setup.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3389_zpsirmov33a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3389_zpsirmov33a.jpg.html)

I decided to cut the hole in the Breeze shroud and get that part ready for powder coat. The hole follows the inner outline of the FF supplied cooling fan. I put 10-32 nutserts in the mounting hole locations, which makes it real easy to install the fan and remove if necessary for service.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3363_zpsdcu1txjv.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3363_zpsdcu1txjv.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3361_zpsrjtrcv14.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3361_zpsrjtrcv14.jpg.html)

[KDubU]

I notice you are using different boots on the LCA's and UCA's. The ones that come with the kit, dark blue, seem a bit liable to tear and I ordered some replacements from Summit but have not wanted to pull everything apart again to install. How do you find the ones with the kit and am curious why you have a few different ones?

[ThickCobra]

Edwardb,

Thanks for the words of encouragement, and I will PM my email address to you. FFR has a great team over there and has been very helpful and responsive to my inquiries. But, as with many endeavors, frustration can get the best of you. Help is much appreciated.

BobCarter,

In addition to now having the IRS instructions, here are the ones sent with my paperwork:
Wind wings
Sun visor
Windshield wipers(need for wisconsin) Go Pack..sorry, couldn't help myself.
Hood hinges
Emergency brake

[edwardb]

I notice you are using different boots on the LCA's and UCA's. The ones that come with the kit, dark blue, seem a bit liable to tear and I ordered some replacements from Summit but have not wanted to pull everything apart again to install. How do you find the ones with the kit and am curious why you have a few different ones?

The LCA boots are unchanged as received with the kit. Those blue ones I left alone. They are crimped in place (or held on somehow) and seemed OK to me. I have similar ones on my completed Mk4 that's done and driving. They are holding up fine. For the UCA, I switched to Howe Racing ball joints as I described earlier in the thread. They don't come with boots, but that's OK because I really like the Energy Suspension boots. So for the UCA, those are the Energy Suspension 5.13102G boots. That part number contains both upper and lower. I just used the one pair. Less than $10 for all four. For the steering tie rod ends, those are Energy Suspension 9.13101G boots. About $7.00 for the pair. The boots supplied with the kit are maybe OK. But you can find lots of instances where they haven't lasted the life of the build. Maybe because the suspension is hanging at full droop for extended periods of time and they get distorted and crack? Whatever the reason, easy and cheap to put better ones in now. Much more work later. I found the best price for the boots on Amazon. If they have what you're looking for, their car part prices are usually pretty good.

[ThickCobra]

A question on ball joints as others may notice the same thing I do. The ball joints for the front LCAs, as mentioned, appear to be pressed into the control arm and the boots are secure. However, the left one's threaded shaft is impossible to rotate without the tap of a plastic mallet. The right side ball joint moves rather freely like a joystick. I applied synthetic grease to both but the left one shows no improvement. Should I be concerned? And if so, with which one?

Has anyone else found this to be the case? BTW, I may have been one of the fortunate ones to have the upper ball joints go in easily.

[edwardb]

A question on ball joints as others may notice the same thing I do. The ball joints for the front LCAs, as mentioned, appear to be pressed into the control arm and the boots are secure. However, the left one's threaded shaft is impossible to rotate without the tap of a plastic mallet. The right side ball joint moves rather freely like a joystick. I applied synthetic grease to both but the left one shows no improvement. Should I be concerned? And if so, with which one?

Has anyone else found this to be the case? BTW, I may have been one of the fortunate ones to have the upper ball joints go in easily.

Both of my LCA ball joints were pretty tight. Probably similar to what you're describing for the one. For the one that moves freely, IMO unless there is any play at all, it's OK. You don't want the front suspension to bind, but it's stiff by design plus even more when it's brand new. During assembly, check that both UCA and LCA move OK individually after torquing down the bolts. They will be tight, LCA a bit more, but still should move with a little push. Then when you install the spindles, before you put in the coilovers, again check for free movement of the entire assembly. Everything will be stiff, but you should be able to get everything to move fairly easily. At that point, your ball joints are also moving. If it still doesn't seem right, then I would call FF. But I'm betting it's OK. Once you add the coilovers and sway bars (if you're using them) you can't really move the suspension by hand any more, so you can't tell anything at that point.

Your experience with the upper ball joints is interesting. Many report trouble with this, and some like me just give up. Sure don't know where the variation is. As I documented, I couldn't get two different brands to go in. That would suggest the UCA's. But the Howe Racing parts went in smooth as could be. Strange.

[edwardb]

A note to other builders- the front lower shock mounting bolt provided by FFR used in mounting the sway bar is a bit too short and as such does not fully pass through the elastic stop nut. When installing my sway bar I became concerned about this and purchased a 3 1/2 long bolt to replace the one which was furnished with the sway bar. This longer bolt now passes fully through the nylon insert in the nut and when torqued will hold better than the shorter bolt.

Yep, same here. Easy fix. It's a widely available Grade 5 1/2"-13 hex head bolt. I have a very well stocked Ace Hardware about 2 miles from my house. They know me well. Not the first (or last) piece of hardware that gets changed.


Edawardp- When you installed the Moog tie rod ends did you modify the steering arm to accomadate the taper of the Moog stud? I too ordered the Moog ends and see that the steering arm does not have a tapered hole to receive the mounting stud. The FFR tie rod end is not tapered and the Moog is. Just curious how you addressed this.

Oops, sorry I missed this question. First, no I didn't modify anything. I assume we're talking about the ball joint studs on the Moog tie rod ends? If so, they're tapered exactly like the FFR supplied ones, and drop into the spindle steering arms perfectly. Any chance you have the steering arms on upside down, and trying to push them through the smaller side? PM sent.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...I have a very well stocked Ace Hardware about 2 miles from my house. They know me well...

Me too---in fact on more than one occasion I've been asked questions by customers who think I work there :D

Jeff

[ThickCobra]

Me too---in fact on more than one occasion I've been asked questions by customers who think I work there :D

Jeff

And if your support to fellow builders is any indication, I would suspect you help customers with their questions. :cool:

[edwardb]

No big changes to report with my backorder situation, mainly affecting the IRS and Wilwood brakes. I’m in regular contact with FF, and I believe they are trying hard to get my remaining parts. But no firm dates at this time. I’m not the only one in this situation. I want the IRS installed before starting fuel and brake lines, which is really what I want to be doing next. I’ve not done IRS before, and I don’t think anyone has done the 2015 Mustang one yet. So I’m just not comfortable running any lines before I see exactly what I’m dealing with. Then need the Wilwood brakes to finalize all four corners plus e-brake.

Meanwhile, I’ve kept busing making progress in other areas. Decided to tackle the fuel tank assembly and installation. The first two kits I built were not donors but were basic kits. So I bought my own fuel tank in each case. They were pretty generic Spectra tanks. Domestically made, unpainted, etc. This complete kit has the FF supplied tank. It’s not marked, but just based on the box and other components, it appears to be imported. Quality seems decent. It’s painted, which is nice. I like the provided cover better than the standard Ford part. It’s kind of a shiny plastic, and doesn’t have the bump-in for the differential which is out of place for our builds. So gives a nice clean appearance. Important for under the car, right? One caution I would make about the tank. Use a file, sandpaper, emery cloth, whatever, and clean up the openings. They are rough and razor sharp. I can’t think that would be nice on the rubber seals used in a couple openings, or just to protect from cutting yourself. I blew out the tank real well to make sure it was clean inside. Then started to install various components.

A problem frequently mentioned in the past on the forums is having to fill the tank slowly or it backs up, flows over, etc. I think this is mainly related to using a donor fill tube, something that isn’t done too much any more. But one suggested solution is a larger tank vent. I’ve done this on both of my builds to date. They didn’t have donor fill tubes, and I never had fill problems. But I went ahead and got one for this build as well. It’s Breeze #70648. You can see in this pic the difference between the Breeze part on the left and the kit vent on the right. What doesn't show is the much larger check ball and valve on the Breeze piece. It pushes in through the kit supplied gasket in top of the tank.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3407_zpseqhtjdkp.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3407_zpseqhtjdkp.jpg.html)

Next up was the fuel level sending unit. I used the kit supplied part. I did check its operation before installing. First just to make sure it was alive, but also to confirm the measurement range. With a digital multimeter clipped across the leads, measured the ohms at empty (float down) and full (float up). It registered 15.5 – 165 ohms confirming it was doing something. For my last build, the Ford sending unit had the same reading, which turned out to be one of the ranges available in the Speedhut gauge during calibration, so easy to pick the right one if not already using that range.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3411_zpsojhssosi.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3411_zpsojhssosi.jpg.html)

I need an electric fuel pump for my Coyote build, and decided early on to do an in-tank pump. There are advantages and disadvantages for in-tank and external. But I think it’s generally accepted the in-tank pumps run cooler and are a little quieter. The main downside is they are harder to service or replace. But with the access panel in the trunk, not too bad, so going that way. The Coyote recommended pump is a 255L/Hr unit. I went with one from Breeze. Mark sets it up with a Walbro pump and oversized 1/4 inch inlet and 5/16 inch outlet. Here I have it ready to go into the tank with the filter sock attached.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3409_zpsmpwgjzcg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3409_zpsmpwgjzcg.jpg.html)

Here is the top of the tank with the fuel pump and vent installed. I also added -6AN adapters for the inlet and outlet tubes from Breeze. I will use SS flex from here to the rigid fuel lines about 12 inches away on the chassis.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3413_zpsskvpboxj.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3413_zpsskvpboxj.jpg.html)

I use a floor jack with a piece of plywood and cushioned with a blanket to lift the tank into position under the chassis. Don’t forget the little plastic bumpers on the bottom of the tank support tubes. Also don’t overlook the manual instructions to straighten the bent seam on the tank by the straps. I admit I missed this at first. The tanks I’ve purchased before weren’t pre-bent like that. The tank won’t sit properly unless the seam is flat. I did have to “adjust” the two front tank supports a bit with a dead blow hammer. The PS about ¼ inch. The DS about ½ inch. They needed to be moved forward just a bit so the bumpers sat flat on the tank seam without running into the tank sides. With the cover in place, the straps snugged up fine and all is good.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3420_zpsuf9b688c.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3420_zpsuf9b688c.jpg.html)

Here’s a nice surprise. Looks like the fuel filler isn’t going to interfere with the frame rail. This is a common problem many have reported, and I experienced on my last build requiring me to shim the tank down a bit. I’m not sure what changed. Maybe FF extended the tank mounting tubes a bit. Or moved the frame rail some. Whatever, happy to see nothing special required here.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3424_zps0m5ww9mf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3424_zps0m5ww9mf.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

The tank is now back off, all the openings taped up, and ready to install for the last time later in the build. I cut off the extra tab above the strap connection on the PS. Did the same thing on my last build as well. Although I haven’t experienced it, there are apparently some tank strap setups that need this higher mounting location. But this one doesn’t, so off it comes. I’ll put a little paint on the bare metal, and add a piece on the trunk aluminum to cover the matching opening. It’s an obstruction that is nice to not have in the trunk. Some go even further and lower the other mount out of the trunk like the DS. That requires welding and shortening the strap. It’s far enough down in the trunk that it’s not an issue IMO.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3415_zpsuasipsq0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3415_zpsuasipsq0.jpg.html)

I assembled the Russ Thompson trunk box mentioned in my last update, and used the now installed tank to confirm the location of the trunk box. I centered the sender access panel over the sending unit, and confirmed all else had adequate clearance. Then located the trunk aluminum, marked and drilled for rivets, and started the first of many drilling and cleco sessions. With the required opening for the trunk box now determined, cut out the hole and drilled and cleco’d the trunk box into place. An often asked question on the forums is how many clecos does it take to build one of these? Here I demonstrate it takes a lot. Couldn’t help myself… Really, not that many are required. In these pics you can also see that I’m leaving in the chassis tubing through this area. Many remove these pieces when installing a trunk box, and (hopefully) weld in new pieces below the box and above the tank. I’m OK with the minor obstruction, and happier to not mess with FF’s chassis design. It still gives a ton of additional space.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3431_zpsyufmrogj.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3431_zpsyufmrogj.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3434_zps6mp7gcol.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3434_zps6mp7gcol.jpg.html)

My last update for this week is a nice surprise. Part of my Coyote build plan is stainless headers from GP Headers. A little over two weeks ago I called Kevin at GP Headers in Minnesota. He said he doesn’t stock them but only makes on order. No problem. Took my name and number and said he would call back in two weeks for shipping info. On Wednesday, he called and said they were ready. Exactly two weeks! Took my address and credit card number and they were on my porch on Friday. I’ve seen pictures, but not seen these in person. I’m not disappointed. Beautiful pieces and amazing workmanship. Of course the proof will be how they fit. But for now I’m a happy camper. In the second picture you can see the center spike in the collector. Similar piece where it goes back to 4 tubes right before the pipe flange.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3426_zps8uohn9uh.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3426_zps8uohn9uh.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3429_zpspqz5a466.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009262015/IMG_3429_zpspqz5a466.jpg.html)

At this point I’m going to keep plugging away on sheet metal until my IRS parts are here.

[carlewms]

I am not sure you can ever have enough Clecos!

[BobCarter]

Edward that IS a lot of Clecos! Good idea to remove the gas tank mount on PS. I see you have not installed your IRS members. Still dont have them? Control arms are a tight fit but feels good once installed. Cant wait for my CV shafts.
[ATTACH]46032

[edwardb]

Edward that IS a lot of Clecos! Good idea to remove the gas tank mount on PS. I see you have not installed your IRS members. Still dont have them? Control arms are a tight fit but feels good once installed. Cant wait for my CV shafts.

Nice pic. Looks good. No upper or lower control arms here. Or CV axles. Controls arms are supposed to be in production, and I'll get them as soon as their completed. CV axles are coming from their supplier. Supposedly any day now.

[edwardb]

This is a pretty important update. As the title says, the IRS installation is completed. A big milestone. The last few days have been good for backordered parts delivery. Received the upper and lower control arms and other misc stuff last week. Received the CV axles yesterday. Very nice pieces from The Driveshaft Shop. And the last pieces of hardware today. So no more excuses. I have one single item left on my backorder list, and that’s the Wilwood brakes. Pretty major item, but I can proceed for now. My understanding is they’re in production, but I don’t have an ETA.

Before getting into the IRS, a couple of other bits of progress while I was waiting for parts. I worked on my dash some. I was able to sell the provided assembled dash. It was nice enough, but a street layout and I really want the competition layout. So I have a blank dash and the first thing was to copy the layout from my current Mk4 to the blank. I spent a long time laying that out a couple years ago, focusing on not just the competition layout but also sight lines, ergonomics, etc. After driving this season, there’s nothing I would change. I like it a lot. So I’m starting there. Still have some decisions to make, like oil temp in or out, what indicator lights, can I do (or even need) a fan override with the Coyote ECU, etc. So I’ll decide those things before finalizing the layout. I will be doing a glove box. But still looking at options for that and the covering material. Also started fabbing the dash braces I’ll use. This is similar to my first two builds. A small one on each end that will also contain down lights for the footwells. And a larger one in the center that will have 12V outlets, various switches, and stuff mounted on the top side. They’ll be riveted to the two inch tube at the front, and attached to the dash edge with nutserts (what else?) through the bottom. These three make the dash quite solid, but still leave it open enough for some access if needed. Note the one by the steering column is not in the final location. It will be at the end of the dash. I have to notch it around some things still.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2010072015/IMG_3443_zpshwmhi0lf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2010072015/IMG_3443_zpshwmhi0lf.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2010072015/IMG_3451_zpshc8nkjxf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2010072015/IMG_3451_zpshc8nkjxf.jpg.html)

The next thing I worked on was the radiator with cooling fan and shroud. In an earlier update I described getting the shroud ready. I sent it out for powder coat along with several other parts. They were able to match the silver/grey of the chassis very nicely. Just the other day we received the actual brands and codes for the Anniversary powder, so I’ll be checking into that before committing to all the aluminum panels. But for now, pretty good. I mounted the fan to the shroud, and then added the radiator. Then mounted in the chassis using the Breeze lower radiator mount. All quite straightforward. I mounted the radiator in the center of the opening. Did the same thing on my last build. The manual says 5/8 inch over toward the DS, but it doesn’t need to be IMO. This was discussed a bit in another thread the last few days. Won’t repeat it all here. Two small hints. While it’s likely OK, I think it’s a good idea to add a little cushion to the top mounting locations. I used some pieces of neoprene on my last build. That was OK. But this time used some tubing I had on hand. Just slightly thicker but not quite so hard as the neoprene. Slit the tubing and wrapped it around the front and bottom, held on with 3M weatherstrip adhesive. Then trimmed to fit. Turned out good and provides just a little “give” in the top mounting. The other thing to watch for is a slight interference between the radiator tank assembly and the mounting tube on the PS. You could go ahead and mount it that way, but the already pretty narrow mounting available on the radiator top would become even smaller because the radiator would be slightly lower on that side. I just undercut an angle on the mounting tube and it fits better I think. Did the same thing on my last build. You can see it in the close-up pic.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2010072015/IMG_3440_zpsxvwht32u.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2010072015/IMG_3440_zpsxvwht32u.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2010072015/IMG_3453_zpsnqcl5krr.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2010072015/IMG_3453_zpsnqcl5krr.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2010072015/IMG_3441_zpsfrhvrs4a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2010072015/IMG_3441_zpsfrhvrs4a.jpg.html)

You can also see in these pictures I assembled and temporarily placed the hood hinges. More fill-in work. I'll either paint or PC them later. Just a couple words about those. I believe all the steel parts (along with the aluminum panels) are laser cut. Really nice clean and precise parts. But the steel ones especially are left with pretty sharp edges. Plus seems that every part has one or two little “nibs” where I’m assuming the laser starts and stops and holds the part from falling out of the sheet. But those things can be nasty and can lead to unplanned blood donations. (Ask me how I know). Do yourself a favor and spend a little time with a file and some emery cloth and clean up the parts during assembly. For the hood hinges, I didn’t use the wavy washers. First time I’ve seen those. The best way I’ve found to assemble the hood hinges using the shoulder bolts is with two 3/8 inch ID washers for each bolt. One under the head of the bolt, then the hinge pieces and bushing oriented properly, then another 3/8 inch ID washer. There should be just a little of the bolt shoulder remaining, and make sure the washer fits over that shoulder. Then add the nut and tighten to suit. Works perfect. I was able to find enough washers in my junk drawer to get the job done. You need to be selective to get the right thickness. Same for the trunk hinges and also the doors. Although I found the doors are assembled fine from the factory and I’m not doing anything to them. If you look really close in the pictures (and I know some of you do!) you’ll notice I don’t have the lock nuts on the hood hinges. Or radiator for that matter. I have a supply of 5/16 and 3/8 inch plain nuts (the most common sizes), and do a lot of the mock-up with those. I don’t use the actual lock nuts until final assembly. Easier plus reduces wear on the lock nuts so they can do their job.

One other update. As mentioned early in this thread and in another separate thread, I purchased a complete “zero miles take-off” 2015 Mustang IRS assembly, including not only the parts required for the build, but also the stock CV axles, upper and lower control arms, even the actual frame assembly. I was hoping to sell the leftover stuff and recover a little money. No luck so far. Had them on Craigslist for a couple weeks with zero responses. Hard to believe with Craiglist. No spam or anything. Just finished a 7 day no reserve eBay action for each. Had quite a few lookers and watchers, but only one sale. A pair of lower control arms for 99 cents. Good grief. What a waste. I’ll throw the stuff in my “not used” pile and see what happens I guess. One thing I did notice though. The CV axles I received yesterday from Factory Five, while shorter (and beefier) than the stock ones, have the same exact ends as the stock axles I have. Same FoMoCo laser markings and part numbers. So at the very least these could be spare parts if ever needed.

Related to this, I happen to run across that Ford Racing is now selling the 2015 Mustang center sections and knuckles/hubs separately. Four months ago I couldn’t find anything other than service parts or the zero mile take-offs I ended up using. Google M-4001-88355. That’s the Ford Racing part number for a 3.55 cast iron center section. List just over $1k. Available multiple places for a bit less. M-4001-88373T is the 3.73 cast iron Torsen center section. List over $2K. Expensive piece. The knuckles with hubs are Ford Racing part number M-5970-M. List price a little over $500. Availability on those looks to be a little limited. Interesting for both the center sections and knuckles the Ford Racing pages specifically say “Can be used in kit car custom builds.” So looks like the market might be catching up. Posting this because I know some reading this thread may be looking at a future 2015 Mustang IRS build.

[edwardb]

Ok, so finally to the actual IRS assembly update. Last week I received my upper and lower control arms. I was still missing a few of the bolts, but was able to assemble everything into the chassis using some temporary hardware in a couple places. Everything works, and it turned out great. But a couple things I learned and offer as recommendations. I’ve tried it both ways, and have decided I like to grease these large poly bushing/sleeved joints BEFORE assembly. Once the joint fills with grease and squirts out around the little holes between the bushing and the sleeve, I’m now 100% sure they’re properly lubed. I smear that little extra grease on the bushing end, and it makes it way easier to assemble. For the most part, everything fits really tight. Some adjustment of the tabs might be necessary before anything will go in. I have a big Ford wrench (how many know what that is?) I got from my grandfather that works great for adjusting the mounting tabs. A big adjustable (Crescent) wrench also works. Just make sure the jaws are clean and tight before applying any pressure. Then you won't damage or mark the powder coat. I found the upper control arms especially tight to get in place. A dead blow hammer doesn’t hurt sometimes either. I found those tapered pins I made to install the center section, mentioned in an earlier update, work GREAT for helping to line up pieces as they were getting close. Drive the taper through, everything centers, and then the bolt almost pushes in. I’m saving those things. Also had to adjust the lengths slightly on a few of the supplied sleeves. All pretty normal stuff. I followed the assembly sequence exactly as described in the instructions, and torqued when they said to. The CV axles also went in just the way the instructions said. It took a little bit of a bump with the dead blow to get the inner retaining ring to click into place. Today I received the last pieces of hardware, so installed those and final torqued and marked everything. The only thing remaining is the axle nut. I ran it down with my puny air impact wrench. But I won’t be able to get the final tightness until I have some brakes or the drivetrain installed to hold it. I did make one very small change. When I installed the rear sway bar, the two threaded together rod ends were at a pretty sharp angle vs. straight up and down when the suspension was level. So I trimmed the one longer bushing by 1/8 inch, and added another 1/8 spacer on the other side. Much better. It’s not very much. Maybe just the tolerance of the bends in the sway bar.

I’ve had a couple questions about the two lower cross-axis joints in the Mustang knuckles. They are not replaced, but used as is. The main joint (the rear one) fully pivots and turns. Like a Heim joint. It appears to be a heavy duty and well made piece. The toe arm joint (the front one) is some type of elastomer, and just flexes once bolted down. It’s pretty large and flexible. The instructions clearly state to torque the bolt down with the suspension in the level position. Makes sense. You can feel some resistance from the joint when moving the suspension up and down. The top joint is the bolted in large rod end showing in the pictures, which comes with the kit. Hope this all makes sense. I’m learning about this stuff for the first time.

So here are some pics. Really not much else to say. I think it turned out great and looks really good. Looks an awful lot like what we saw at Factory Five during the open house. But makes a difference when it’s really your car. Everything turns nice and smooth. Just need to remember to add fluid at some point.

Passenger side from rear. Note in all the pictures the suspension is drooping, as it would with the chassis on the lift. The final position is the upper control arm and CV axles level, and the lower control arm pointed slightly down. Note also I haven’t done anything with alignment yet.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3456_zpsvzahpnl1.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3456_zpsvzahpnl1.jpg.html)

Passenger side from front. Note the large adjuster for camber. The toe adjustment is a little harder to see on the inner part of the lowest arm. Note none of these have to be disassembled for adjustment. Just loosen the jam nuts and adjust in place.

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Driver’s side from rear. Looks kind of like the passenger side.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3460_zpszqgjoytm.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3460_zpszqgjoytm.jpg.html)

Entire IRS from back.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3467_zpsjqh4024j.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3467_zpsjqh4024j.jpg.html)

Looking up.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3468_zps5ikptnwr.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3468_zps5ikptnwr.jpg.html)

Closer look at the passenger side from the bottom. Can see the toe arm adjustment a little better here.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3480_zpsrzt17azx.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3480_zpsrzt17azx.jpg.html)

Well that’s it. Pretty cool. Tomorrow I’m going to be finalizing my Coyote engine order. That’s next up.

[RRussellTx]

Great progress! I'm not sure how you are going to drag this out over 2 years now that you have all the parts...

[David Hodgkins]

I agree, great progress. You're really blazing the trail with the new IRS. Can't wait to follow your Coyote install.

:)

[edwardb]

I’ve now received my Coyote engine, so lots to share there. But first a bit of unfinished business on the IRS. I know there are many options, but I chose to fill with the exact Ford recommended gear lube and friction modifier. Didn’t see the Motorcraft products on the shelf at any of my local parts stores, so stopped at the local Ford dealer. He said they don’t normally stock the 75W-85 weight. I mentioned that was specified by Ford for the 2015 Mustang IRS, and he responded they haven’t replaced the gear lube in too many of those yet. OK I guess… Anyway, he ordered what I needed. At the same time, I ordered the Mustang vent tube for the center section. How to handle the vent isn’t mentioned anywhere in the FF instructions. The Mustang piece is maybe a little too long, but has the right size right angle connecter to plug onto the center section, and then a plastic vent at the other end, similar to the metal vent used on the 8.8 solid axle I’m familiar with. Once the stuff arrived, I put the first quart of gear lube in, then the 3+ ounces of friction modifier, and then topped off ending up using about 3.3 pints as specified. Once again I was reminded how much that friction modifier stinks! (My wife noticed very quickly as well.) Took about a day for the garage to air out.

These are the products recommended by Ford. Easy enough to find in Mustang specs. Also listed at the end of the FF IRS instructions.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3511_zps677lqagq.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3511_zps677lqagq.jpg.html)

This is the Ford part number for the Mustang vent tube assembly. It’s only $10-12.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3512_zpsj1h1pb5b.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3512_zpsj1h1pb5b.jpg.html)

Just mocking up how it might be used, this is plugged onto the center section and routed over to the PS.

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I’m thinking of tie-wrapping it to the fuel tank vent tube that will come up in this same area in the wheel well. That’s where the Mustang routes it. Would be easy to shorten.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3518_zpsextpdmgg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3518_zpsextpdmgg.jpg.html)

OK, now to the Coyote adventure. Some months ago when I planned and budgeted this build, using FF’s Coyote instructions, other build threads, etc. I planned all the parts necessary, including of course the engine itself. I had several sources in mind to buy it from, mainly shopping price to be honest. When I was ready to click the button to purchase last week, the first place I went said “Ford Coyote M-6007-M50 no longer available, replaced with M-6007-M50A.” Went to a number of sites and found the same message, although some with the M-6007-M50 still available in limited quantities. Turned out what I was seeing, and I guess I must be living under a rock, is that Ford made some pretty significant changes starting in 2015, and M-6007-M50A is the 2015-2016 Coyote motor. I immediately noted it has more HP and torque, so no complaints there. Then I found they have released a brand new control pack M-6017-504V for the 2015-2016 engine, which is mandatory. The 2011-2014 engine won’t work with the new control pack and the 2015-2016 won’t work the old control pack.

So, after all said and done, I found a great price for the 2015-2016 engine, control pack, engine covers, alternator and starter package, including free lift gate home delivery, and placed my order last Thursday. After a little back and forth discussion, received notice that it shipped on Friday. Monday it was at the freight company, and Tuesday morning it was in my garage. Now that’s service! Turns out (and I didn’t know any of this) Coyotes are made in Ford’s Essex engine plant, which is right across the river from me in Windsor, Canada. Goes from there to the Ford Racing distribution center in Livonia, MI, also pretty close to me. So it never had very far to go. BTW, the place I bought the engine is not a forum vendor, but I recommend them. They were very interested in my project, patiently made sure I had exactly what I needed, and asked me to send a picture when it’s done. Cool! PM me if you want more details.

Just a few words about the 2015-2016 Coyote engine. I am far from a Coyote expert. I’m learning as I go here. It’s rated at 430 HP and just over 400 torque. In the Roadster with the revised intake and straight tube headers, should get a good bump from those numbers. I think it will be enough. Some of the changes to the 2015-2016 engine are bigger heads and valves. Apparently similar to the Boss heads but in cast form. A revised crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, and a couple internal changes to the block. A major addition is charge motion control valves (CMCV) added to the intake manifold. This was something used before on 3V mod motors, as I understand, and one of the first performance modifications was to remove them. Ford claims these were done right on the Coyote, and get totally out of the way when open. They are supposed to provide better low-end torque without affecting high rpm power. I understand this also allowed some changes in how the variable cam timing works. All interesting stuff (I guess) but I think it’s cool my anniversary edition with the latest 2015 Mustang IRS now will also have the latest Mustang powerplant. The flip side is what might be the implications of the change as I go down a path not travelled yet for these builds (that I know of). I’ll detail what I’ve found out so far. Mostly OK (I think…).

The engine arrived crated and boxed as many have seen. First time for me seeing a Coyote outside of an engine compartment. Interesting. And HUGE.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3496_zpsdcd8a2ih.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3496_zpsdcd8a2ih.jpg.html)

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Right off the bat, noticed they added an oil cooler to the oil filter location. After checking with some other builders, confirmed there’s no way this will fit. Good news is that it was easily removed. It’s just sitting on top of the normal oil filter location with an extended adapter hold it in place. Side note: It’s a $300+ dollar part! I’m taking a run at eBay to see if the Mustang crowd will take it off my hands.

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[edwardb]

Next order of business was to get it out of the crate and up onto the engine stand. But before I did I quickly checked the fitment of my just received Quicktime bell housing. Oops! Ordered the wrong one. Good grief. Ordered RM-6060 instead of RM-6080. I amaze myself sometimes, and not in a good way. Exchange underway. I used the side motor mount bolt locations with chains and lots of towels and rags over the engine to hook it up and onto the engine stand. Had to get some metric bolts for the back of the block long enough for the stand, so yet another visit to my friends at Ace. But it mounted up OK. Just barely fit around the flywheel. It comes filled with oil, so drained that out. I didn’t have any clean containers, so never really thought to save the oil. I should have! I didn’t know it was 8 quarts and that it was synthetic. Put some bucks into the old oil recycle there. Oh well. Yet another lesson learned. I installed the alternator using the supplied Ford Racing kit. Very easy except the one idler wheel they provide but don't show in the instructions. Guessed it needed to replace the one already on the engine, and turns out that was right. Then turned it over and took the stock pan and pickup off and replaced with the Moroso pieces.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3547_zpsg4qojk7v.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3547_zpsg4qojk7v.jpg.html)

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I would have loved to lift off that factory gasket/windage tray and peak into the innards there a little. But it was stuck in place with sealant, and I chose not to disturb it. I could see the 4-bolt mains, with the front one pretty visible. Actually I guess 6-bolt if you include the ones through the side of the block. All five are just like this. Pretty stout engine there.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3554_zpsbwjmvefe.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3554_zpsbwjmvefe.jpg.html)

After checking the pickup to pan distance using the clay method (actually plumber’s putty…) and finding it just over 3/8 inch (good) I installed the Moroso pan. Also added the engine mounts, just finger tight.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3557_zpsk1j6bvu8.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3557_zpsk1j6bvu8.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3558_zps5q9umvwn.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3558_zps5q9umvwn.jpg.html)

Last thing for now with the engine, I went through the Factory Five Coyote instructions and tried to verify every connection, hose, etc. Posted a forum thread, and received some good feedback. All is accounted for except two extra vacuum hoses by the throttle body. Thanks to another forum member, determined the one on the PS is for the power brakes booster, so I will remove and use that vacuum source for the fuel regulator. The one on the other side is for the already mentioned CMCV system. This will require a connection to the Spectre intake tube.

One aside comment. Some chatter on the forums about the necessity to use the remote oil filter setup. Many have avoided doing this by using a lower profile oil filter in the stock engine location, which is what I was planning. Some though didn’t like the reduced filter size/capacity as a result. I went ahead and picked up one of the recommended lower profile filters, an M1-113. Once home, I compared it to the OEM C336B filter I removed from the engine as received from the factory. Guess what? Same size. Looks like Ford had to reduce the size of the filter due to the oil cooler noted earlier? Also suggests this smaller filter should be fine. No remote oil filter for my build.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3561_zpslrlaldx5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3561_zpslrlaldx5.jpg.html)

To wrap up, while I haven’t done much with it yet, here are some observations and pictures of the new control pack. First some obvious differences. The old control pack had the O2 connections on the supplied harness. The new engine has them integrated into the engine harness. (Even though the O2 sensors they provided don’t fit into the engine connectors. Open topic with Ford Racing technical support. Looks like they provided the rear sensors instead of the front ones. Same thing I guess but obviously different connectors.) Old harness has an electronic power steering connection, the new one doesn’t. No problem for our builds. New harness has A/C connections (not needed for my build) and clutch bottom and clutch top switches. More about that later. The new control pack has a brand new PCM and power distribution box. Both completely different than the old ones. The new control pack has a fault indicator light for the dash, I assume similar to a check engine light. Tells you a fault has occurred and you need to read the codes. Ford Racing tech told me the new control pack does NOT need the speed dial like the previous version. We’ll see I guess. Finally, and this one I’m a little upset/surprised about, the new control pack doesn’t have a tach connection. (!!) When I asked Ford Racing technical about this, he listed off all the stuff the new system has that weren’t in the old one. OK, but how you could miss this? He mentioned using an Autometer tach adapter. Don’t know about that. Looking at the Speedhut gauge instructions, looks like not too big a deal to tap into one of the wires on the coil-on-plug connectors and calibrate to that. To be continued.

OK, here are some pics: This is the new PCM. According to Ford, this is a “next generation” from the previous one, and a completely new operating system and program. Bet the tuner crowd likes that. It’s much smaller and lighter than the previous version, but looks like it will need to be mounted in a similar location based on the lengths of the supplied harness. A little interesting for me, I kind of recognize that supplier name on the PCM. I also recognize the codes and know this was manufactured in a plant in Seguin, Texas where I spent a lot of time. Yep, the company I retired from.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3564_zpsbwrunudz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3564_zpsbwrunudz.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

This is the new power distribution box. Looks a lot more like something you’d see under the hood of a DD. In fact, that’s probably what it is. No wires to connect on the inside of this one like the former version.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3565_zpsygpc8uzr.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3565_zpsygpc8uzr.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3566_zpsusr80hfz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3566_zpsusr80hfz.jpg.html)

These are the already mentioned clutch “bottom” and clutch “top” switches provided. They have dedicated legs on the harness. According to Ford Racing tech, they are mandatory. The bottom switch is required as a starter interlock. The top switch apparently triggers some reaction by the PCM to the engine when the clutch is started down. I’m not going to question them. I will install but thinking not to use these exact switches. Measuring them, they’re just 2-wire NO and NC contact switches. I’m thinking I can use the typical switches we use on our builds, like the one on the right. The top switch can be mounted in the Wilwood box just like a brake switch, and in fact I already made and installed a bracket like that on the clutch side anyway. Then just need to figure out how to have a similar switch at the bottom of the clutch stroke. Stay tuned for that as well.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3569_zps9qlkzekw.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3569_zps9qlkzekw.jpg.html)

This is the provided drive-by-wire (DBW) accelerator pedal. Same one as before. Still thinking about how I’m going to do this one. Not a fan of the way FF suggests to modify it. Lots of ideas on the forums.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3571_zpsjhw6ahho.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3571_zpsjhw6ahho.jpg.html)

Quite a few changes in the way power is brought into the new harness. These are the power cables provided, including an inline 250 amp fuse. The main power input to the harness is the 2-pin large Weatherpack style connector on the right side. This goes into a connector next to the power distribution box.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3573_zpsysg3k91p.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3573_zpsysg3k91p.jpg.html)

Last but not least, no apparent change to the MAF sensor. The OEM one removes from the provided stock intake components and bolts into the recommended Spectre intake tube.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3575_zpsygn8ubjt.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3575_zpsygn8ubjt.jpg.html)

That’s way more than enough for now. My plan is to wrap up a few more details on the engine, and then drop into the chassis. Without the transmission for now, so should be easy enough. Obviously I will need to support it accordingly. I want to mock up and confirm all the engine compartment and footbox sheet metal.

[Bhhughes]

Thanks for all of the pictures and for detailing the recent changes to the kit and other parts. You are saving a lot of people a lot of frustration!

[ticopow]

Question for you,
Since you removed the oil cooler how are you going to mount the filter? I know with my 2014 when I installed the oil cooler it uses a longer bolt than the stock one. It looks like you have removed that longer bolt but now don't have any threads for the filter to grab on to. Have you found a replacement yet? you might want to look at the 2011-2014 version... in fact mine might be lying around somewhere, right next to the stock lower radiator hose sitting in the garage. let me know if you want either!

[edwardb]

Question for you,
Since you removed the oil cooler how are you going to mount the filter? I know with my 2014 when I installed the oil cooler it uses a longer bolt than the stock one. It looks like you have removed that longer bolt but now don't have any threads for the filter to grab on to. Have you found a replacement yet? you might want to look at the 2011-2014 version... in fact mine might be lying around somewhere, right next to the stock lower radiator hose sitting in the garage. let me know if you want either!

Good question. Never know how much detail to include. I've got it covered I think. I ordered the normal short oil filter adapter along with a couple other parts from Tasca Ford a couple days ago. Supposed to be delivered on Monday. I'm planning to use a Breeze lower radiator hose. But thanks for the offers!

[ticopow]

I figured they were just collecting dust here. Looks like a great build, and I think you will enjoy the 2015 motor a lot more. They can take a lot more punisment than the 2011-14 version can. with a SC mine can do about 600 rwhp, your motor can do 700 if not more with the same reliability! Not saying you will throw a blower on it, but it's definitely an option :)

[2bking]

I noticed the sensor mounted in the Moroso oil pan. I think it's the low oil level sender but the earlier PCMs didn't support it. It was one of the many items removed from the PCM along with the oil pressure monitor. I rethreaded the plastic part to accept the oil temperature sender. Be careful on the first trial fit of the engine because this part is very close to the 4" tube and engine mount.

[edwardb]

I noticed the sensor mounted in the Moroso oil pan. I think it's the low oil level sender but the earlier PCMs didn't support it. It was one of the many items removed from the PCM along with the oil pressure monitor. I rethreaded the plastic part to accept the oil temperature sender. Be careful on the first trial fit of the engine because this part is very close to the 4" tube and engine mount.

Thanks for the tip. Yes, that is the low oil sensor and I have no idea whether it's supported in the new PCM or not. Something I will check on with Ford Racing, after they answer a couple more important questions. I'll definitely keep an eye on it during my first engine mockup.

[edwardb]

Like many modern EFI engines, the Coyote is a Drive-By-Wire (DBW) setup, meaning no physical connection to the engine. Accelerator pedal movements send a signal to the engine computer, which in turn uses an electric motor on the throttle body to open/close the valve. The Coyote crate motor includes the required DBW accelerator pedal. It’s large and a little clunky, and requires some level of modification to fit. Factory Five includes a multi-page set of instructions for modifying the provided piece, which many have done successfully. But some, including me, find it a little crude. There are a couple alternatives. Use the existing pedal maybe improving a little on the mods. Use a similar module from a 2014 Ford Van which is smaller and fits better/looks neater. Or go all in with a Lokar DBW module and pedal which several have done. Option one is basically free, e.g. I already paid for it. Option two is around $100. Option three is in the $400+ range, depending on which pedal assembly you pick. After reading every forum thread and post on the subject I could find, one of the takeaways is none of the options provide any real upgrade to how the system works. All are similar. It seems mainly about fit and appearance. So I decided to do my own take on using the already received Ford Racing pedal assembly. If I wasn’t happy with how it turned out, easy enough to look at the other options with nothing lost but my time. Which I have plenty of right now! I really like the Lokar option, and spent quite a bit of time looking at it, looking at pictures guys have posted with it installed, and generally just trying to convince myself it was a good idea. But that’s expensive, and even though this isn’t a low budget build, happy to spend the money elsewhere.

My review of the installation guys have done with the existing pedal showed two major issues: One being appearance. The grafted on pedal and that big chunky module just don’t look very nice. Second, as installed, it shortens the overall pedal length some, resulting in higher effort and more sensitive throttle response. I don’t know if this has really been tested and compared, but makes sense if the lever arm is shorter. So I approached my install trying to address these two points. In order to not cut off the arm so much and not have the pedal too low, the overall assembly needs to be raised. The standard FF install bolts it pretty much to the existing accelerator mounting plate. Several guys have figured out how to get it mounted higher. One moved it way up and left the arm intact, which looked good, but it involved removing the FF mounting plate, and that didn’t leave me a way back if I didn’t like how it turned out. So I tried to find a happy medium.

My first step was to trim the module basically as outlined in the FF instructions. I tried to do it neat and clean so it looked like it was made that way. I also trimmed the big round pads off the outside mounting ears. They don’t add anything structural because they don’t contact on the back. Perhaps in the production cars they fit into a grommet or something. Not on our cars. With the module as small as it could be, and without the pedal cut off yet, I made a pattern using a cereal box (nothing too good for me) to move it up as high as it seemed practical. I also tried to keep it over toward the center of car as much as possible so the pedal hit where I wanted it in the footbox without the module being at a wonky angle. All was good until I found the connector location at the very top of the module was now too close to the steering column. So I removed some ribs on the side of the module where it was against the 3/4 inch tube to get it over about another 1/4 inch and all was good. Once I was happy with the template, made the real thing out of 3/16 inch aluminum plate and got the module placed where it looked pretty good. Then I took the FF supplied accelerator pedal, and using clamps, determined where it needed to be mounted on the module arm. I was looking at the length and also depth behind the brake pedal. The module placement had already pretty much determined the side-to-side location. Since I’m very satisfied with the pedal spacing on my current Mk4, I tried to duplicate those dimensions. I’m happy to say it’s very close. Note, as mentioned earlier, I didn’t have the pedal cut off yet. This was to try to address the appearance aspect. FF has you cut the arm off pretty short, leaving a stub visibly showing. My idea was to leave the arm as long as possible, and have it end behind the FF pedal itself, therefore more hidden. Also allowed me to space the mounting bolts a little further apart, which in theory is more structurally sound. So with the FF pedal location now determined, cut off the module pedal, and bolted it to the side of the module arm. Sprayed some of my (almost) matching Rust-Oleum paint on the bracket, and this morning put it all back together. I set the seat in the cockpit and checked out how it felt. All good. I think it’s a keeper. My only quibble at this point is the black non-skid surface on the FF pedal doesn’t match the other pedals that well. I may do something with that, but for now I’m leaving it as is. Here are a few pics.

Paper template and aluminum piece after finalizing.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3582_zpsxjhmirrq.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3582_zpsxjhmirrq.jpg.html)

First time installed.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3586_zpsovykkxe5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3586_zpsovykkxe5.jpg.html)

From the inside, showing it slightly notched around the 3/4 inch tube.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3587_zpspkqpzanc.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3587_zpspkqpzanc.jpg.html)

Mocking up the FF pedal graft.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3588_zpsilgcpnoi.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3588_zpsilgcpnoi.jpg.html)

Graft complete and bent to match the module arm. Note I didn’t cut off the end of the FF pedal arm as instructed. Looks a little better, plus this also shows my version is about 1 inch longer. Only slightly shorter than the stock version. I’m thinking (hoping) I won’t be able to tell the difference.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3594_zpsx70a0hdr.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3594_zpsx70a0hdr.jpg.html)

Adapter plate all painted and ready to install. I threw a ruler next to it.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/Coyote_DBW_Bracket_Template_zpsj7h4saut.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/Coyote_DBW_Bracket_Template_zpsj7h4saut.jpg.html)

All done.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3595_zpsuc7ehbcj.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3595_zpsuc7ehbcj.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Couple of other Coyote updates since my last post. I mentioned before about the provided O2 sensors not matching the connectors with the engine harness. I’ve been back and forth with Ford Racing tech support on this one, and after sending pictures they agreed there is a problem. They checked an engine they had, plus also with engineering, and now confirm I have the wrong sensors. They are in the process of sending replacement parts. Note the O2 sensors I received are the exact ones called out in the new control pack instructions. So hopefully they will be changing that. Also note this is one of the differences between the new version of the Coyote and the previous one. Before the O2 sensor connectors were on the provided control pack harness. Now they are already on the engine, and not on the control pack harness. This does present a little bit of a challenge. Guys were able to adjust the former harness and sometimes get the cables to reach the sensors without extensions. Not so now. The O2 sensor connections on the new engine are fixed. One at the top RH rear corner, and the other on the lower LH side right next to the oil level sensor. I’ve checked using my new stainless headers and the provided O2 sensors. Both are 6-12 inches short of reaching the O2 bung. I’ll see if the new sensors they provide are similar (expect they will be) and determine the extensions needed once I mock everything up in the chassis. But expect to require extensions in all cases with the new engine. Ford Racing tech also confirmed, again this time from engineering, that the new control pack does not have a tach connection. I’m also waiting for their best and final opinion about the speed dial question. There still seems to be some question about that. The manual transmission engine provided as a crate motor does not have a transmission connection, even though there is one showing in the instructions. Another error. So no speed sensor connection there and none through the new control pack. Doesn’t the PCM require vehicle speed? That’s my question. I don’t see now where it would get it. My build has a GPS speedometer, so I actually don’t even need the speed sensor output for the gauges. But there’s one built into the TKO, so easy enough to feed that to the engine setup if required. But still an open question.

I’m back to doing fill-in work until my bell housing arrives. When it does, I’ll be dropping the engine into the chassis and start finalizing footbox sheet metal.

[2bking]

Nice job on the accelerator pedal. Very clean looking.

Apparently the PCM doesn't need vehicle speed. It would be necessary for cruse control but the Ford Racing PCMs have that function dieted out. In the earlier controls pack there wasn't a speed dial sensor connection. It has to be wired into the PCM connector. Ford Racing will supply the pins if you asked but there are a few unused pins in the PCM connector that can be removed and reused to connect the speed dial. I saw a post where someone tried connecting the electronic sensor in the transmission directly to the PCM and reported that it seemed to work.

[edwardb]

Nice job on the accelerator pedal. Very clean looking.

Apparently the PCM doesn't need vehicle speed. It would be necessary for cruse control but the Ford Racing PCMs have that function dieted out. In the earlier controls pack there wasn't a speed dial sensor connection. It has to be wired into the PCM connector. Ford Racing will supply the pins if you asked but there are a few unused pins in the PCM connector that can be removed and reused to connect the speed dial. I saw a post where someone tried connecting the electronic sensor in the transmission directly to the PCM and reported that it seemed to work.

Thanks! Interesting about the PCM not needing speed and that it's dieted out of the former PCM. At this point, we can only assume the new PCM is the same. As I mentioned before, Ford Racing told me this is a completely new PCM with a new operating system and an all new engine program. This is what I posted on the other forum about the speed dial question, based on some other input: The tech at Ford Racing was pretty confident it's no longer required, just as (he claimed) it was no longer required in later versions of the previous model. I suspect some will disagree, but that's what he told me. Regardless, he's checking with engineering to get their input. It's true that when the speed dial first came out as a fix, it was necessary to break into the harness to install. The most recent version of the 2011-2014 control pack specifically advertises though that it has the wires for the speed dial already installed. But it's not mentioned anywhere in the 2015-2016 control pack instructions. Interesting.

[blkout25]

Alright! Like Lloyd from Dumb and Dumber said: "So you're telling me there's a chance!!"
Congrats on your new project! Now more than ever I'm going to be buying my Lotto tickets and crossing my fingers so I can make an offer on your 7750 when the time comes!!

[edwardb]

Alright! Like Lloyd from Dumb and Dumber said: "So you're telling me there's a chance!!" Congrats on your new project! Now more than ever I'm going to be buying my Lotto tickets and crossing my fingers so I can make an offer on your 7750 when the time comes!!

Great quote from a funny movie. ;) I'm enjoying #7750 so much it's hard to image selling it, but that's the plan. Sadly, it's now hunkered down until spring. Several have expressed interest. If all goes according to plan, probably about a year from now.

[RRussellTx]

Edwardb,

Help! I am struggling with the Rear Swaybar attach point. Did your kit come with an extra brace/attachment for the swaybar? Here is an image of the piece in question. I received the swaybars last week but no brackets came with them or that I can find on any of the packing slips.
46813

[edwardb]

Edwardb, Help! I am struggling with the Rear Swaybar attach point. Did your kit come with an extra brace/attachment for the swaybar? Here is an image of the piece in question. I received the swaybars last week but no brackets came with them or that I can find on any of the packing slips.

Yes, you should have received brackets for the rear sway bar mount, part numbers 16000 and 16001. They're pretty substantial welded right angle pieces that fit under the forward LCA and toe arm bolts. Mine were on the original kit parts list, but initially backordered. They came several weeks later. Also you should have received 1/4 inch longer tow arm bolts 12384 in your rear sway bar parts bag because the regular bolts aren't quite long enough for the added thickness of the sway bar bracket. The LCA bolts are long enough as is. The added brackets are briefly mentioned in the IRS instructions, and also in the rear sway bar instructions. Here's a better picture showing the PS bracket and how it fits under the two bolts. Of course the same thing only reversed on the DS. I had it powder coated to match the chassis. Hope this answers your questions.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_0150_zpslldjumio.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_0150_zpslldjumio.jpg.html)

[RRussellTx]

Thanks!! That is very helpful - I received the bolt but not the bracket. Here is a pic of my packing slip:
46814

Looks like I need to make another call...

[edwardb]

Thanks!! That is very helpful - I received the bolt but not the bracket. Here is a pic of my packing slip: 46814 Looks like I need to make another call...

Interesting. My pack slip is exactly the same, except it has three additional parts. Two front sway bar mounts, and the left and right rear mounts. The front sway bar mounts -- which I received -- aren't needed since they're already built into the chassis. Maybe that's where some of the confusion is.

[edwardb]

Spent time yesterday making some lift plates for the engine out of 1/4 inch steel plate. The DS attaches to the factory lift location. The PS to a pair of exhaust manifold bolts. My tools are pretty lightweight for dealing with steel plate, but got through it. They work great. Threw some towels in there to keep from marking up my shiny new engine while dragging the chains around. The lift plates do add some width to the engine during installation. I should be OK with the DS because it's well in front of the footbox. The PS could be challenging during final assembly. But I'll find out during the mock-up, and shouldn't have any problems this time around since I don't have any of the PS panels installed yet. I did finally receive the right Quicktime bell housing on Friday, and it seems to fit fine. I have a couple other parts scheduled for delivery on Monday, and then will drop the engine in.

I'll be using the Whitby motor mount spacers. This morning I was reviewing a newer edition of the FF Coyote installation instructions than the one I had before. Not sure how that happened. But I see now FF is showing an L-shaped spacer between the engine and motor mount on the DS (left). But that side only. Interesting. I also saw where they're no longer showing that collection of fittings allowing both the stock and aftermarket oil pressure connections. They just remove the stock connection, and replace it with the aftermarket one from the gauges. I'm assuming the PCM doesn't see the missing connection as an error condition. Same question about the oil level sensor on the bottom of the pan. I'm hearing I can disconnect that too. I need to verify the new PCM doesn't have a problem with either of these.

Here's the Coyote waiting to be dropped in. I made an engine cradle a couple builds ago out of some scrap lumber, and it's served me well. With a couple tweaks fits the Coyote mounts. I'm just a little too paranoid to leave the engine hanging on the hoist for very long, even though many do it and I've never had a problem. Plus handy for longer term storage once the bell housing and trans are installed and can't use the engine stand.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0151_zpsgs49nthf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0151_zpsgs49nthf.jpg.html)

[russelljones48]

Boy am I glad you're ahead of me. Great help on the DBW pedal. Looks great, relatively easy to duplicate (my fabrication skills are minimal) and should be very functional. I have a couple of favors to ask. Once you're sure the engine hoist plates work would you post pics? and I can't quite see enough of the wooden engine stand to duplicate it. When the engine is next off the stand could you post some pics of that too? DO you think the stand could be placed or mounted on a cheap dolly and work OK? THANKS

[edwardb]

Boy am I glad you're ahead of me. Great help on the DBW pedal. Looks great, relatively easy to duplicate (my fabrication skills are minimal) and should be very functional. I have a couple of favors to ask. Once you're sure the engine hoist plates work would you post pics? and I can't quite see enough of the wooden engine stand to duplicate it. When the engine is next off the stand could you post some pics of that too? DO you think the stand could be placed or mounted on a cheap dolly and work OK? THANKS

Sure, I'll post some pics of each after the engine is installed. My inspiration for the lifting hooks was mainly from this post on the other forum. Mine don't quite look like these, but are similar in function and attach to the same places. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/2766120-post3.html. Yes, the engine stand could be put on a regular dolly or wheel dolly. I've done both in the past.

[edwardb]

I know some are following this thread because of the new IRS setup, so thought I would pass this along. Yesterday afternoon I got a little bored (OK, both of my football teams were losing badly...) so I decided to play around with the IRS alignment. Just to get it somewhere in the ballpark. Used a level on the hubs for camber and a laser level pointed toward the front of the car for toe. Like I said, really rough. They were clearly way off from the original assembly. What I discovered is now quite obvious in hindsight, but I missed it during the initial assembly and I don't remember it from the instructions. It it's there, I obviously overlooked it. For the two adjustment points on each side, it's necessary to have equal threads showing on both sides before you bolt in the heim joint. I had the toe adjustment pretty centered, but that was mostly by accident I guess. For the camber adjustment, I had the fitting almost all the way into the UCA, but then the heim joint only about halfway in. So it was impossible to adjust it properly. I had to remove the large bolt holding the joint to the knuckle, center things up, and re-torque the bolt. Now it works perfectly. In both cases, you loosen the jam nut on each side and rotate the center adjuster as required. Then tighten the jam nuts. That's it. No dis-assembly required.

Here are a couple of pics. Camber adjustment showing equal threads on both sides now:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_0152_zpsixzfry84.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_0152_zpsixzfry84.jpg.html)

Toe adjustment showing roughly equal threads on both sides. Note where I have these as pictured is roughly to the spec. Looks like plenty of adjustment still available either way, and plenty of thread engagement. Also note, not surprisingly, the adjustments interact with each other. Adjusting camber also affects toe. Adjusting toe also affects camber. I'm planning to have the car professionally 4-wheel aligned when the time comes.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_0153_zpsshxrqbwz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_0153_zpsshxrqbwz.jpg.html)

[russelljones48]

Thanks - the other post gives me a good idea of what's needed. Looking forward to more on your build. Do you have maker and part number for the clutch switches?

[edwardb]

Late yesterday I dropped the Coyote into the chassis for the first time. Hanging over the engine compartment, my first impression is there’s no way that thing will fit in there. But it does! Went it with relatively little drama. This is just a mock-up, so in some ways not completely how it will be when I do the “real” installation. The engine had the bell housing but no transmission. The DS footbox was just set in place, and no PS footbox yet. Next time around it will be different, and I won’t be doing it alone. But based on this first experience, I think it will be OK. I guess I shouldn’t say I was alone. My longsuffering wife helped by keeping it from swinging around, and being another set of eyes as we lowered it into place. I kept my promise of no heavy lifting!

What I learned. The engine hooks I made will be fine. Front DS is wide open. The PS rear can’t be in the back cylinder exhaust header holes, but one forward. Then it will clear the PS footbox. The steering column needs to be swung out of the way to clear the alternator going in. I just loosened all the set screws, pulled it off the steering column, and swung that end over. The 2bking modified panels on the DS are awesome. Wow, what a great job he did on those. The head sits in the DS footbox perfectly, and the restored space for the driver’s feet below is outstanding. FF needs to make this a standard for the Coyote builds. Completely removes one of the major objections. I was thinking of doing an expanded footbox on the PS. But the gained space isn’t that much, and the factory pieces I have already are powder coated with the anniversary white PC. I’m going to use them as is. I used Whitby spacers on both motor mounts. Both motor mount bolts are in the bottom of the slots, and the engine is relatively level. I will be leaving both in. I have the engine blocked at 2 degrees down measured off the dampener, roughly what I expect it will be when the transmission is installed and pinion angle set. The Moroso pan is slightly above the frame rails in the front, and just flush or very slightly below in the back. Fine with that. The Quicktime bell housing does extend a little lower than the pan on the bottom circle. I would say about 1/2 inch. I will probably go ahead and trim that off. But honestly if I get in a situation where I hit that, I’m probably hitting something else too. We’ll see. Also confirmed the shorter/compact oil filter clears the 4 inch chassis tube just fine. No remote oil filter to install. Fine by me.

I bolted in the stainless headers. PS, obviously especially without the footbox there, was wide open and easy as can be. Note to self. Get all the bolts started before tightening any of them! Even finger tight. The header flange is very precise. Now the DS is another whole story. I was able to get 4-5 of them on with a little effort, but there are a couple that are nearly impossible. I’ve read about this, and my experience is quite typical. Some guys put an access panel in the footbox, but for now I’m not planning to do that. My thought is for the hard to reach ones to use studs vs. the allen head bolts I'm using everywhere else. I think I’ve read where others have done this as well. Assuming there’s enough room to get the header into the opening and hooked over the studs. Another thought, which I’m seriously considering, is to install the DS header during engine installation. Once the engine is low enough that the header can go under the 3/4 inch frame tube, go ahead and install the DS header while more accessible. Using a combination of bolts and studs, still would able to re-torque the bolts later if necessary after a few run cycles. But anything more may require loosening the engine mounts and lifting the engine. Not something I want to think about, but not unlike many regular production cars. I’m planning to use Remflex gaskets, and I’ve had great luck with those. Both of my former builds haven’t needed the exhaust headers touched after the initial installation. Hopefully my luck will hold.

I also test fit the Gas-N side pipes. Wasn’t particularly easy because how I have the frame sitting on my 2-post, the pipes hit the side arms. So I had to lift each side to check them. But I wanted to get a sanity check on what pipe alignment looked like. I’ve had to work with this a lot on my previous builds, and many can cite how this aspect has kept them awake at night. I’m happy to report it looks pretty good. The ends of the Stainless headers exit the frame area at nearly the exact location on both sides and the pipe alignment seems OK. Both pipes will likely take a little bit of wedge to get parallel to the body. The DS more than the PS. This will all be finalized later during body installation. But I’m very satisfied with this initial check.

Here are some pics of the engine install. Engine hovering over its intended destination:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3599_zps0dk3iq1g.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3599_zps0dk3iq1g.jpg.html)

Settling in:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3601_zpslr3x5bph.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3601_zpslr3x5bph.jpg.html)

All in. Note these are the newer style 2015-2016 covers. A little chunky looking compared to the previous style, but they’re growing on me. I think they’re a little different around the back with the new CMCV setup on this engine.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3603_zps0fpkbidw.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3603_zps0fpkbidw.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3605_zpsqrzuljez.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3605_zpsqrzuljez.jpg.html)

DS stainless headers, after some “minor” frustration getting most of the bolts in.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3606_zpslhywuwoh.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3606_zpslhywuwoh.jpg.html)

PS stainless headers. Also checking the fit and clearance of the PS footbox pieces. All good.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3607_zpsohfrwu2v.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3607_zpsohfrwu2v.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

This afternoon I starting playing with some of the control pack components, trying to decide where best to locate things. Still way more planning and work to do here, but here’s a couple first shots. Based on where the main harness comes off the engine (I think the same as the 2011-2014 engine) and the length of that harness, the PCM has to go alongside the engine. No way it will reach the firewall or even PS footbox as some have done. This location for the PCM allows the engine harness and then also the control pack harness to plug in reasonably OK and look decent from the engine side. I tried every possible angle, location, upside down, right side up, multiple cable routings, etc. This seems about the best. I will need to design and fabricate some type of tray for the PCM to set in. I wish it could be further from the headers, because I have to think there’s going to be a little more radiated heat there than elsewhere. But I don’t see where I have a choice. The PCM case has what looks like heat fins on one side, and those aren’t facing the headers. So if I shield the other side some – while still allowing airflow all around it – I think it should be OK. It’s designed to work in the harsh underhood environment, but don’t want to heat it unnecessarily.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3609_zpscbmghedj.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3609_zpscbmghedj.jpg.html)

I’m thinking the power distribution box will be somewhere in this area on the firewall. It’s just too big to fit behind the dash. I’m not planning a heater – only heated seats like I’ve done before – so I have some flexibility of where to place it on the firewall. My only concern will be the wiper motor, and that’s pretty flexible. With the box in this location, the large bundled harness back to the PCM is still a bit too long, but I can deal with that in the fender well area I think. I may have to adjust the lengths a bit on a couple of the cables that go into the dash area. But that’s not something I have any qualms about doing and the smaller cables only have a few conductors.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3610_zpsnavlausv.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3610_zpsnavlausv.jpg.html)

I still have a lot of studying and thinking to do about joining the control pack wiring into the RF harness and main power wiring. The control pack came with a bunch of big power wires, including the main alternator charging wire, starter power wiring, etc. It’s not just clear to me why I would need to do those differently than I have in the past with the RF harness. As long as I have the always on connection from the battery to the main power input on the power distribution box, I think I have the power covered. And obviously the control pack has its own wires to the starter, ignition switch, cooling fan, fuel pump, etc. But need to spend more time with this. It’s definitely different than the previous version.

Still to be checked out are the intake, radiator and cooling lines, radiator reservoir, power steering lines and reservoir, brake and clutch reservoirs, fuel lines and regulator, and a decision about battery location. Still going back and forth between the Breeze front mount and the FFMetals under trunk mount. There is a lot going on in there. Still having fun though!

[edwardb]

Boy am I glad you're ahead of me. Great help on the DBW pedal. Looks great, relatively easy to duplicate (my fabrication skills are minimal) and should be very functional. I have a couple of favors to ask. Once you're sure the engine hoist plates work would you post pics? and I can't quite see enough of the wooden engine stand to duplicate it. When the engine is next off the stand could you post some pics of that too? DO you think the stand could be placed or mounted on a cheap dolly and work OK? THANKS

Here are the pics you requested. The plates were made from a 4 x 12 inch piece of 1/4 piece of steel from Lowes. Cut it, drilled some holes, and beat on it for a while in my bench vise to get the necessary bend in one. You can see the scars. In hindsight, maybe I could have used some heat and it would have bent easier. But it's done now. The one on the left is for DS front, and bolts into two factory lift points. The one on the right is for PS rear, and bolts into either of the two rear exhaust header bolt pairs. I drilled two holes for the chain attachment. For safety plus to adjust the balance if needed.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3612_zpsld5khyac.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3612_zpsld5khyac.jpg.html)

This is my super high tech engine stand. Just dimensional lumber with an angle and notches to fit the engine mounts. It's put together with lag screws and long wood screws. Has proven to be plenty strong. I built this really fast when I was in a pinch a few years ago, and it sticks around for more builds. Better than using an old tire. :D Real versions of these are available at Summit and elsewhere for not too much.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3611_zpsnfipflgx.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3611_zpsnfipflgx.jpg.html)


Thanks - the other post gives me a good idea of what's needed. Looking forward to more on your build. Do you have maker and part number for the clutch switches?

The two on the left were received with the control pack. The bottom switch I will replace with the pin switch like on the right. Not sure about the top one yet. The switches from Ford are fine. Just a little clunky to mount.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3569_zps9qlkzekw.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3569_zps9qlkzekw.jpg.html)

[russelljones48]

THANKS!! Will start on that stand and those plates soon..

[carlewms]

I am not building with a coyote but really enjoy your threads and the help they provide us all!

[edwardb]

I am not building with a coyote but really enjoy your threads and the help they provide us all!

Cool! :cool: Thanks.

[russelljones48]

What would you estimate the sizes and the angle of the bend are. I have a local shop that can cut and bed. Looks like 4X5 for the flat piece and 4X7 for the bent piece and the bend about 15 degrees - bend point at 3"?

[edwardb]

What would you estimate the sizes and the angle of the bend are. I have a local shop that can cut and bed. Looks like 4X5 for the flat piece and 4X7 for the bent piece and the bend about 15 degrees - bend point at 3"?

Close! Good guesses. Mine are 4 x 7-1/2 and 4 x 4-1/2 inches. 20 degree bend on the longer piece, since it sits flat on the exhaust header location and needs to clear the cam cover. Bend at 3 inches. The smaller one doesn't need to be bent. It goes into bosses on the DS front, and it clear's OK without bending. Note the bosses aren't the same height. I put a few washers in the back one so that the lifting bracket sits level.

[russelljones48]

Thanks. Spent yesterday creating some brackets based on your ideas from a very odd available piece of steel - it was free :-) Is there a reason you didn't use the passenger rear mounting holes for the rear bracket and went for the header holes?

[edwardb]

Thanks. Spent yesterday creating some brackets based on your ideas from a very odd available piece of steel - it was free :-) Is there a reason you didn't use the passenger rear mounting holes for the rear bracket and went for the header holes?

I assume you mean on the back of the PS head? Yea, I saw those, and in hindsight those would work OK I think. I'm learning as I go here, and the pictures I could find beforehand all looked like they were using a side mount location, so I chose the only available holes which were the exhaust header ones. Plus I wasn't sure about clearance from the back. Now that I have the engine in, I can see there's more clearance in back than from the side. So certainly an OK choice. There's only two negatives I can think of, now that I've done a little work on this. If you ever wanted to install/remove the engine with the body on, the chain hanging down in the back location would be very close to the edge of the body. Plus having the attachment more toward the front of the engine naturally allows it to hang down in the back, which is mostly what you need. Of course basically the same thing can be accomplished with the engine hoist load leveler. But bottom line, I think either would work.

[russelljones48]

Thanks

[edwardb]

Since the last update, I’ve mainly been focused on installing the 2015 Coyote control pack. There is a lot of information on the forums, and from FF, on how to install the previous version of the Coyote control pack in the Roadster. But none that I’m aware of for the new 2015-2016 version. As I mentioned before, there are some pretty significant differences.

First thing I went after was mounting the PCM. The large cable off the front PS corner of the engine goes to the PCM, and the length and position of that cable just about dictates only one location as I showed previously. I played around with several patterns (cereal boxes to the rescue again) and ended up with this version and cut/bent some aluminum. It will rivet to the underside of the top 3/4 inch tube and the outside of the lower 3/4 inch tube. I used some 1/2 inch shock mounts to locate the PCM on the outside of the new bracket. The shock mounts don’t have much give for the light weight of the PCM. But between the mounts and the .040 aluminum, it has just a little give but still very solid. It’s as far away from the header as I could place it, with the bracket shielding facing the header and an airspace between. The heat sinks for the PCM are facing the other way and completely open. This area should have decent airflow with the side vent right behind it. So I’m satisfied the PCM shouldn't see any extreme temps and is reasonably protected. I'll have the new piece powder coated when I do everything else, and then rivet it permanently.

I started routing some of the cables. It’s still a work in process, so no style points. Lots of straightening and clean-up to do yet. It’s not going to be very pretty no matter what, but mostly will be hidden inside the fender. The control pack harness goes into the other large connector in the PCM, with a large branch going from there to the power distribution box. That I’m going to mount on the firewall, low and just about on center. More about that later. The branches for the MAF sensor and alternator control wires go up and around the engine under the cover, so good there. I’ll need to add extensions to the fan and starter trigger wire to reach their intended destinations. The rest of the connections are on the other side of the firewall. Once you get your head around it, the connections to the Coyote are pretty simple. Here are a couple pics of where I’m at with this part.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3614_zpsxzgancuv.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3614_zpsxzgancuv.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3615_zpssgbyaofl.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3615_zpssgbyaofl.jpg.html)

I posted a picture before of the power distribution module. This is part of some of the differences between this control pack and the previous one. Here it is with the covers off. You can see two power connections. The large lug on the front and then a power cable that exits the harness just a few inches away from the box. Today I checked every fuse and relay in the box. Most are connected to the large lug in the front, and only a couple to the separate power cable.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3618_zpsyzlqq8kg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3618_zpsyzlqq8kg.jpg.html)

The control pack includes a massive 15 foot long power cable. Nothing like this is included in the previous control pack versions. The instructions describe connecting the power cable directly to the battery, and also includes a 250 amp fuse to be placed at the battery end. Also included are lugs and shrink sleeve to shorten the cable if necessary.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3619_zps2gg76hqr.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3619_zps2gg76hqr.jpg.html)

Then it’s routed to the power distribution box with a lug for the large connection on the front and a connector for the separate cable.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3622_zpsgaachr6x.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3622_zpsgaachr6x.jpg.html)

Checking continuity in the cable, the +12V connections are tied together. Now I’m not an electrical engineer (no comments please…) and I guess I understand why Ford engineers chose to provide a home run cable from the battery to the power for the control pack. This is a universal kit and will be installed in many different cars with many configurations. Getting the power directly from the battery makes it consistent for all. As for the other end, with the lug and plug, both have the same +12V power, so I guess this is related to the power distribution box adapted to this setup.

But I’m thinking now not to install it with the provided battery power cable. Like my previous build, I’m planning a master power disconnect centered under the dash with the lugs extending into the engine compartment. Whether I do a front or rear battery (still considering…) the first stop for uninterrupted battery power will be inches away from the power distribution box at the center of the firewall. Assuming I use the right size cable, I see no reason to run a duplicate battery cable.

Just to confirm how the provided power cable is wired, and to prove this plan, I stripped the insulation off each end of the provided cable. The continuity checker didn’t lie. This is the power distribution box end. Large 4 gauge +12V wire to the lug, and smaller gauge power and ground.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3623_zps2we3guln.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3623_zps2we3guln.jpg.html)

This is the battery end, showing the two +12V wires tied together at the battery lug and the separate ground wire.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3628_zpsdzchn6bh.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3628_zpsdzchn6bh.jpg.html)

So the power setup I’m considering is +12V battery power to the master disconnect. Off the same lug, I’ll tap to the two control pack power distribution +12V connections through the provided 250 amp fuse. So they’ll have always on fused power. Just like the provided cable. On the switched side of the master disconnect, I’ll go to the RF fuse box. So technically, not everything will be switched off with the master disconnect. But the PCM has to have always on power to store settings and codes, and there’s no provision to do this other than to leave it connected through the main power leads. Based on how the RF harness is connected to the control pack using the ignition sense wires, the main disconnect will still shut down the car when switched off. I would ground the battery to the chassis, per normal. The control pack has several ground connections, also I would take to chassis. Done properly, I don’t see why I need the dedicated ground wire in the provided power cable.

If anyone has any feedback about any of this, fire away.

[edwardb]

A little less time for building since my last update, but still some progress to share. I think I’m getting close on figuring out where to put the 2015 Coyote wiring. After a lot of experimentation, finalized the firewall location for the power distribution box. I did decide to go ahead and make up a .090 thick firewall. Really no big reason since I won’t be hanging anything heavy on it. Just prefer it. Since I have the 2bking modified DS footbox, the firewall has a smaller cutout than the stock one. But it was easy to make, and proceeded to drill and cleco the bottom row of rivets. With the firewall location finalized, I tapped some 1/4 x 20 threads into the firewall and 2 inch dash tube for the power distribution box mounting. Then cut the 2 inch hole for the control pack wiring to go into the dash area. I’m satisfied with how this turned out. Visible wiring will be pretty minimal.

This is the finalized location for the power distribution box. Pretty accessible from the driver’s side, and low enough that even with the body overhang should be able to get to it OK. Also shows where the cable goes through the firewall. All my power wiring will be directly below this area at the master disconnect, so an easy hook-up to the box.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3633_zpsnezyyt9v.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3633_zpsnezyyt9v.jpg.html)

The cable runs along the bottom of the firewall. I’ll straighten and tie this down once all the sheet metal is in. Note also the very general location of the fuel regulator. It will be several inches over toward the center from what's pictured here. I made a new mounting bracket for the regulator that's straight vs. the right angle one that came with it. That will allow me to mount it on the bottom of the 2 inch tube and stand away enough to clear the control cable behind. Should work OK.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3631_zpsrle7xqlx.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3631_zpsrle7xqlx.jpg.html)

This is a pretty crummy picture, but shows the control pack wiring on the other side of the firewall. The lengths are all going to work out pretty well. That’s the DBW connector sticking up above the dash. The length is about perfect to go down to the pedal. The clutch up and down switch cable lengths are also about right. The ODB2 cable is way too long, but easy enough to shorten.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3636_zpse3mjugqp.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3636_zpse3mjugqp.jpg.html)

Here’s how I ended up anchoring the cable out of the PCM to the power distribution box. Two padded clamps into the underside of the 3/4 inch hood tube. The clips above are for the wire bundle from the dash to the front for the running lights in the oil cooler opening. I have similar clips on the other side for the standard RF front harness.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3632_zpspkgup6z6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3632_zpspkgup6z6.jpg.html)

Did a couple other things. Mounted the CNC brake and clutch reservoirs. Made up another bracket to mount it from the underside of the tube. It’s tight in this area, but the location clears everything. May look a little high to some, but I carefully measured (several times) the available space in the finished Mk4, and the caps clear the hood by about 1/4 inch. Tight, but should be OK.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3630_zpsi9l3ph2w.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3630_zpsi9l3ph2w.jpg.html)

I’ve also been working on getting the radiator hooked up. Lots of great forum info on this subject for the Coyote. Like some others, I’m going to plumb it the same way Ford does in the Mustang. FF shows using a T-filler in the upper hose and a simple overflow tank. Instead I’m using an expansion tank with the filler on the tank, and then the stock hookups to the engine. I’ve got the hoses on order, and will list them once I confirm it all works and fits. The 2015 layout is slightly different and uses different parts than the previous version. In the meantime, I did receive the Moroso 63806 2015 Mustang expansion tank. Looks like it’s going to fit. I’ll need to make some brackets, but will wait until I have the hoses on hand and make everything fit together. Here I’m holding it in roughly the position I’m expecting.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3641_zpszfhp72bu.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3641_zpszfhp72bu.jpg.html)

Finally, and this is a small thing, I worked on the lower radiator hose. Again the forums were a huge help showing using two pieces of a Dayco 71713 hose, a piece of mandrel bent SS tubing, and a Breeze 70612 SS hose mount. Should have the SS tubing tomorrow and I can finish this up. But just wanted to say the Dayco hose appears to be perfect. I was able to clear the front tow hook (always a challenge) and now the new challenge of the sway bar that cuts through the same area. After a little trimming and the proper orientation, looks promising. The open end will get pulled down into place when the rest of the parts are installed.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3635_zpswazuyjab.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3635_zpswazuyjab.jpg.html)

[BobCarter]

Nice work Paul. Where did you get the nifty white clips for your front wiring runs?

[edwardb]

Nice work Paul. Where did you get the nifty white clips for your front wiring runs?

You're not the first to ask me about those. They are Avery Dennison #10045 Cable Tie Mounts. I got them from McMaster, their part number 7566K13. Comes in a bag of 100, so you'll have plenty for the next build. :) I anchor them with 3/16 inch aluminum rivets. The hole in the mount needs to be drilled out just slightly. Depending on the specific 3/16 rivet, some will drop down into the countersink. Others need to be adjusted. If so, I put them in the drill press, and with it turning a couple swipes with a file and they fit perfectly. I usually make up 10-20 at a time, and just have them available. Makes a really clean and strong installation.

[BobCarter]

You're not the first to ask me about those. They are Avery Dennison #10045 Cable Tie Mounts. I got them from McMaster, their part number 7566K13. Comes in a bag of 100, so you'll have plenty for the next build. :) I anchor them with 3/16 inch aluminum rivets. The hole in the mount needs to be drilled out just slightly. Depending on the specific 3/16 rivet, some will drop down into the countersink. Others need to be adjusted. If so, I put them in the drill press, and with it turning a couple swipes with a file and they fit perfectly. I usually make up 10-20 at a time, and just have them available. Makes a really clean and strong installation.

Thanks for the tip on the cable tie clamps!

[Jazzman]

I continue to be thankful for your thorough documentation. Can you tell me where you purchased the CNC Brake and Clutch reservoirs?

[edwardb]

I continue to be thankful for your thorough documentation. Can you tell me where you purchased the CNC Brake and Clutch reservoirs?

Thanks! The CNC 1483 Triple Master Aluminum Remote Resevoir is from Car Shop Inc. Other places sell them, but this was the best price at the time. If you install one, take a look also at the CNC 1459A pressure bleeder lid that works with this. The easiest way to do bleeding I've found yet.

[RRussellTx]

Argh. I had the CNC 1483 on order from another site and just received an email/refund stating they are out of stock. I went to check out the Car Shop (which had 2 yesterday) and now they are out of stock too. The hunt continues... - UPDATE - I just called the manufacturer and ordered the Reservoir and pressure bleeder lid directly.

[Paul Mischenko]

Hey Edward, This is my first build, I'm #9 for the 20th anniversary cars. Wanted to say thanks for all your suggestions and detailed postings they've been extremely helpful as I move along. I'm still waiting on the brakes as well, I was told a few weeks ago they would be shipped soon. I'm planning on PC all the non white panels gray to match the frame, has anyone come across the powder coat paint codes for the chassis so I can match the panels exactly? Thanks again

[edwardb]

Hey Edward, This is my first build, I'm #9 for the 20th anniversary cars. Wanted to say thanks for all your suggestions and detailed postings they've been extremely helpful as I move along. I'm still waiting on the brakes as well, I was told a few weeks ago they would be shipped soon. I'm planning on PC all the non white panels gray to match the frame, has anyone come across the powder coat paint codes for the chassis so I can match the panels exactly? Thanks again

Congrats on your anniversary build. Glad you find my build thread helpful. Brakes are supposedly shipping now, although I haven't seen anything. Seems we're getting very close though. Factory Five tech support posted the anniversary powder coat colors in another thread. They are: Prismatic Powders PSS-1353 soft satin white and Tiger Drylac DB 703 Glimmer, 49/84340. I'm planning to match all the unfinished panels as well. Keep us posted with your build!

[Paul Mischenko]

Excellent, thanks. Today will be working the IRS. Here's a photos as she sits....Cheers47621

[RR20AC]

Edwardb, Thanks for your hospitality in letting me stop by on the way home from the build school. The insight into the build and actually viewing your build was excellent. I think I will be ready to receive my anniversary kit in a few weeks and start a build site. Not anywhere close to yours but hopefully great. I did get to stop by Roush and took the plant tour. Amazing. The automotive engine building supports a huge Merlin aviation engine build site which Jack Roush has had a passion for. I'm swaying toward that 351 they have. A person does have to pay for their engine at a premium but it is an anniversary build and it will add value to this one. Jim

[edwardb]

Edwardb, Thanks for your hospitality in letting me stop by on the way home from the build school. The insight into the build and actually viewing your build was excellent. I think I will be ready to receive my anniversary kit in a few weeks and start a build site. Not anywhere close to yours but hopefully great. I did get to stop by Roush and took the plant tour. Amazing. The automotive engine building supports a huge Merlin aviation engine build site which Jack Roush has had a passion for. I'm swaying toward that 351 they have. A person does have to pay for their engine at a premium but it is and anniversary build and it will add value to this one. Jim

Hey Jim! It was my pleasure. It was great to meet you and happy you had the time to stop by. It's fun sharing the build, and glad it was helpful for you. Also great you had time for the visit to Roush. That would be awesome if you decide to go that way. Good luck with your upcoming delivery. May your backorder list be short and your build time enjoyable. ;)

[ThickCobra]

Paul_M

Looks awesome. We never get tired of seeing new arrivals.

[Paul Mischenko]

Hey Edward, as mentioned my plan is to powder coat all the stainless panels gray to match the frame, I think you are doing the same. You are much further along in the build than I am, and just wanted to ask are you doing all the stainless panels gray or did you find that you are doing some satin white to better match the white ones that came white with our kit? Also has anyone received their brakes? I'm still waiting on these and the CV axels? Thanks

[edwardb]

Hey Edward, as mentioned my plan is to powder coat all the stainless panels gray to match the frame, I think you are doing the same. You are much further along in the build than I am, and just wanted to ask are you doing all the stainless panels gray or did you find that you are doing some satin white to better match the white ones that came white with our kit? Also has anyone received their brakes? I'm still waiting on these and the CV axels? Thanks

I assume you mean aluminum panels. Unless you received an upgrade none of the rest of us did. ;) Yes, I'm going to have all the panels powder coated. The only white ones will be the ones in/around the engine compartment, as already provided by FF. Because I've got some modded panels for the Coyote, I'll need to get them coated white to match. But the balance will be the same color as the chassis. The idea of the white panels is to simulate the look of the originals that had white fiberglass footboxes. Do it however you want though. As we often say around here, it's your build. Do it how you want. I did receive my CV axles some weeks ago, but I know they still have a number backordered. They're from The Driveshaft Shop in NC, and appear to be quality pieces. Not sure why they're taking so long though. The special Wilwood brakes are just starting to ship. I received a tracking number yesterday for the front set. I don't have a promise yet for the back set. They supposedly ship the backordered parts in the order of kit deliveries.

[Paul Mischenko]

Thanks Edward. Yep no special upgrade here, just the aluminum panels...the non finished steel parts I'm thinking gloss black except for the quick jacks which I'm going to chrome. I'll follow up with FF on Monday to check on my brakes and axles. Thanks

[Paul Mischenko]

Hey Edward, quick question for you. Installed my rear center section tonight, all 4 bolts in and when I look from the front down the middle of the car the driveshaft isn't dead center. It sits to the left, almost looks like there will be some interference with a frame bracket. Did you have any issues on your end, do you know if you're is dead center. Given how tight it is to get the diff in and the 4 bolts I can't see how it can be off.

4792447925

[edwardb]

Hey Edward, quick question for you. Installed my rear center section tonight, all 4 bolts in and when I look from the front down the middle of the car the driveshaft isn't dead center. It sits to the left, almost looks like there will be some interference with a frame bracket. Did you have any issues on your end, do you know if you're is dead center. Given how tight it is to get the diff in and the 4 bolts I can't see how it can be off.

You're fine. The whole drivetrain -- engine, trans, driveshaft, and center section (diff) -- are slightly off-center toward the passenger side. As I recall the amount is in the 1-2 inches range, but I'm not positive about that. You'll find out, if you haven't already, that the exhaust manifolds are different lengths. Again, because everything is slightly toward the passenger side. I've heard it's done for balance purposes because only one person in the driver's seat is the most common. Also have heard it's for space purposes, e.g. foot space, pedals, steering column, etc. on the driver's side. Whatever the reason, most DD's of every brand are the same way.

I wouldn't worry about frame clearance. I agree it looks tight. But I think there's enough room. Plus with IRS, the center section doesn't move. So the clearance you see is what you'll always have.

[Paul Mischenko]

Thanks very much Edward, really appreciate the quick response and again thanks for all the detail in your posts. Has been a great help and time saver. Cheers

[BobCarter]

.
You're fine. The whole drivetrain -- engine, trans, driveshaft, and center section (diff) -- are slightly off-center toward the passenger side. As I recall the amount is in the 1-2 inches range, but I'm not positive about that. You'll find out, if you haven't already, that the exhaust manifolds are different lengths. Again, because everything is slightly toward the passenger side. I've heard it's done for balance purposes because only one person in the driver's seat is the most common. Also have heard it's for space purposes, e.g. foot space, pedals, steering column, etc. on the driver's side. Whatever the reason, most DD's of every brand are the same way.

I wouldn't worry about frame clearance. I agree it looks tight. But I think there's enough room. Plus with IRS, the center section doesn't move. So the clearance you see is what you'll always have.
What offset in the driveshaft is ok with this situation? I have installed my 351W coupled to an AOD and the misalighnment causes enough angle in the ends of the driveshaft that I am a bit nervous. Shorty headers are installed and impact the drivers footbox heavily. There is virtually no give anywhere to straighten the drive train.

[edwardb]

What offset in the driveshaft is ok with this situation? I have installed my 351W coupled to an AOD and the misalignment causes enough angle in the ends of the driveshaft that I am a bit nervous. Shorty headers are installed and impact the drivers footbox heavily. There is virtually no give anywhere to straighten the drive train.

The question here, as I understood it, was about the entire driveline being off center, and whether this was normal and/or OK. As in a top view. It is normal, it's designed to be that way, and all the components should align front to back. It's not misalignment. There's a little bit of wiggle room in the engine mounts, so you could swing the engine/trans a bit side-to-side. But that's about it. Another aspect would be the side view. Here the driveline has about a 2 degree down angle toward the back. There are several adjustments available. The most common is to add spacers under the back of the transmission to affect the engine/trans angle and pinion angle. But it's also possible to add spacers under one or both engine mounts to adjust overall engine height or better alignment side-to-side (e.g. for headers). For a fixed axle build, it's also possible to rotate the diff. But not possible on these IRS builds. Especially the way the new Mustang center section is installed. A proper installation will still have some angles on the driveshaft, which is actually recommended as along as they don't exceed design limits. This response may or may not address your specific concerns. I personally have no experience with either AOD or shorty headers. So you may want to post those questions in a separate thread.

[edwardb]

I’ve been keeping with the build pretty steadily, but have waited until some progress to post. First a bit of old business. I have now closed the two open issues I had with Ford Racing regarding my 2015 Coyote crate engine. First was the O2 sensors they provided in the original controls pack did not mate to the connectors on the engine harness. Something about 4-pin not compatible with 5-pin and completely different shapes. I received a new pair of O2 sensors and they fit the engine harness. Details: The controls pack came with a pair of FL3Z-9G444-A sensors, and the installation manual on Ford Racing’s site still lists this part number. The new parts I received are FR3Z-9F472-E (LH) and FR3Z-9F472-C O2 (RH). I assume these will be a permanent change for future purchases, but I don’t know for sure. I will need one maybe two extensions, but that’s TBD until I get all the sheet metal installed and determine the final routing. The second issue was regarding the speed dial. This was an add to the 2011-2014 setup to solve a stalling issue. Ford Racing confirmed via Ford engineering that the speed dial is NOT required for the 2015 version. Apparently changes have been made so it’s unnecessary. I hope they’re right. I won’t be installing it. For now anyway.

The second piece of slightly unfinished business is the lower radiator hose. Based on forum postings, I picked up a Dayco 71713 hose, a Jegs 679-MB1040 Mandrel SS 90° Bend, and a Breeze Automotive #70162 mounting bracket. The Dayco hose is split, with one end on the radiator and the other end on the engine. I showed the lower radiator connection in an earlier update. Now I have all the parts and have completed the layout. Hard to get good pics, but here’s what it looks like. I’m very happy with it. It clears the front towhook and also the sway bar. Mainly because of the sway bar, the routing is slightly different than other postings. But it still works. Those that look at these pictures in detail (and I know some of you do!) you’ll see that my T-clamps are bottomed out. I used some that I had on hand, and they were a bit too big. I have the next size down on the way, and will install those during final assembly when the engine goes back in.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3676_zpsrlzk6nyk.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3676_zpsrlzk6nyk.jpg.html)

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So while waiting for my Wilwood brakes, which I would prefer to have installed before starting brake and then fuel lines, and the balance of my radiator hoses which apparently are taking some special orders through Ford, I’ve been working on the instrument panel. Basically have it ready to cover. As posted earlier, I chose not to use the kit provided ready-to-use instrument panel. Mainly because it was a street layout and I prefer competition. But also I wanted to use some of my own customizations. I don’t know exactly how many hours later, but I’m still OK with that decision. But it was quite a bit of work. I started with a normal FF blank dash. I want to give leather covering a try, and I have a hide now hanging here in my basement (that’s going to be interesting…) and I want a glovebox. So I decided to make my own. It’s based on the Alex’s Custom Roadster Interior version, like I have on the other Mk4. But I revised the shape just slightly with a bit more arch along the top. For the interior, I made a mock-up out of cardboard to confirm the size and shape. Then made some patterns out of scrap wood. Bent a piece of ductwork sheet metal from HD around the form. Made a back and front ring out of aluminum, and bent it all into shape. The sheet metal ring has a folded seam along the top. The rest is held together with good old JB Weld, although once it’s bolted into place the front ring holds the box in place and the back is not going anywhere. I’ll line the interior, which shouldn’t be hard since it’s got square corners. Probably will use some of the leather (I have plenty!) but will see how that goes.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3655_zpsnktimnn5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3655_zpsnktimnn5.jpg.html)

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I was going to use some hinges from McMaster (LH side in the picture below) that were recommended in another forum post. I tried, but the geometry just isn’t right for me. I have to have a grab handle on my dash below the door for my wife, and the McMaster hinges dropped the door well down below the opening. Just wouldn’t have worked. After studying the hinges that Alex uses, I found the exact parts at Lowes (RH side in the picture below). So I’ll use those. The geometry works perfectly. They take a little more space inside than I would like, but so be it. I’m using a VW latch (also pictured) I bought on eBay that should be pretty slick. It latches closed and opens with a pushbutton and has a little pull tab. It can also be locked.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3659_zpsrascpjnf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3659_zpsrascpjnf.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Some, including me, like the dash to be a little more solid than the .040 aluminum used. Once it’s installed and properly braced along the bottom, the stock version is totally fine. But still some of us tinker. Some make the dash out of thicker material. I don’t have any way to make the lengthwise bend, and I’m not aware of any place to buy them. So for my last build, I just sandwiched a piece of .040 sheet on the back of the stock dash, and that actually worked out really well. So I did the same thing this time around. But some care is needed. Some of the things we normally mount in the dash (ignition switch, toggle switches, etc.) do not have enough threads for the thicker dash plus the covering. Ask me how I know that. I had to do some not too pretty after the fact mods on my last build. So this time around, put cutouts in the backer piece in the right places. I know this seems like a lot of messing around, and it probably is. Anyway, with the layout completed and the reliefs cut, I tacked the backer in place with some spots of JB Weld in all the right places. Once everything is installed (instruments, glovebox, etc.) it’s firmly held in place. The I cut out for the gauges, switches, etc. I used an adjustable circle cutter in my drill press for the larger gauge holes, and various step bits and whatever for the smaller stuff. The glovebox cutout was with a sabre saw. In most cases, I made the openings slightly larger so I can pie cut the leather and pull through and glue behind. I also added four tabs along the top which is how I like to hang the dash from the 3/4 inch dash tube. I placed them where they all have straight shots from the bottom for assembly and disassembly if required. Final results:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3661_zpsm4epvivq.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3661_zpsm4epvivq.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3662_zps0aoawaoy.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3662_zps0aoawaoy.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3666_zpstozoedbc.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3666_zpstozoedbc.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3667_zpsfca6pdld.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3667_zpsfca6pdld.jpg.html)

Two other comments. First, I looked for alternatives, but I ended up using Lucas switches for the wipers and hazards. I just haven’t found an acceptable alternative to the Lucas switch for the wipers. I’m amazed how much that’s discussed, e.g. guys not able to get them to work properly, park, etc. With that switch and wired properly, they work perfectly every time. Yea, there are some other wiring diagrams using relays, etc. But this is a case where simple is good IMO. But here’s a tip. Most of the “Lucas” switches sold in the U.S., at least that I’ve found, are not actual branded Lucas parts. Including the forum vendor that many of us use. They are knock-offs. I’ve found the genuine Lucas switches are better quality. I know that’s a relative thing when it comes to Lucas, but that’s my experience. If the switch doesn't come in a green box and have Lucas marked on the part, it's a knock-off. Additionally, the commonly used “Lucas” wiper switch doesn’t have a proper plated/polished finish on the front. The genuine Lucas switch does. Maybe it’s only me that notices stuff like that. It’s a little pricey, but I get the real Lucas stuff from Auto Electric Supplies Limited in England. They have a good website, ship quickly, and takes a week or so to cross the pond.

Second, I’ve added headlights on chimes (buzzers…) to my previous builds just to keep me from forgetting and leaving the lights on. Our DD’s have had automatic lights for years now, and I can just see myself forgetting. Plus these circuits don’t have a cut-off like most modern cars now. So if the lights are left on, they will stay on until the battery is dead. For my previous builds, I made my own using a Radio Shack chime and a relay. Pretty easy to do. With all our local stores closed and not wanting to really try to find another source, I noticed on Watson’s Streetworks website they had a nice light’s on reminder that even has a flashing light if you’re so inclined. Even better, I saw that it has an option to also hook to your turn signals so that you get an audible signal when the turn signals are flashing. I don’t know about you, but I can’t hear the flasher clicking in my car, and even with the dash indicator light, I occasionally discover the turn signals still flashing long after I’ve made a turn. I hate being one of those guys! The Russ Thompson system is great, but soft turns (like a wide LH turn) sometimes isn’t enough to shut if off. So here’s a pic of what I received from Watson’s. I’m going to mount the buzzer/light in the center brace pointing down. I don’t need to see it or the light. But that’s where I’ve mounted the reminder chime before, and it was exactly what I needed. If you’re interested in one of these, just be aware it’s not specifically listed on their website. You have to call and ask for #32021-CSTM Headlight/Turn Signal Reminder Buzzer.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_0182_zpsei8pafpd.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_0182_zpsei8pafpd.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

OK, last update, and a pretty big one. All of us Anniversary Edition builders have been patiently (or maybe not so patiently) waiting for the special Wilwood brakes that are part of the package. This is the last backorder piece for me. I think others are in a similar position. Last Thursday, received an email from Jay at FF that I had a box on the way from Wilwood. I was a little disappointed to learn this was only the front brakes. But it’s progress. The box was scheduled to arrive on Wednesday, but yesterday look what the FedEx truck left for me:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_0179_zpsx40vskkp.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_0179_zpsx40vskkp.jpg.html)

At first I was a little surprised that 48 pounds was only the front brakes. But after opening the box and checking everything out, now I’m not surprised. These things are meaty! I’ve just played around a little, mainly wanting to confirm everything fits. So far, so good. I’m going to get to learn how to do safety wires for the mounting bolts between the hat and the rotor. The instructions say the wire is “optional” (I guess that’s why they don’t include it…) but I will be installing it. Some on the way.

Rotor:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3689_zpsyxz73zd6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3689_zpsyxz73zd6.jpg.html)

Calipers and mounting brackets:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3690_zpsvycpstvm.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3690_zpsvycpstvm.jpg.html)

Temporarily installed one of the hats onto the rotor:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3691_zpsr34gc2ey.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3691_zpsr34gc2ey.jpg.html)

Did a quick check on the mounting. Other than it’s impossible to get a socket on the top mounting bracket to spindle bolt, all looks good:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3686_zpsfr7cc8qa.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3686_zpsfr7cc8qa.jpg.html)

Had to drag out one of the 18 inch wheels and check the clearance. All good there too! They look nice in there.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3680_zpsf6smh9px.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3680_zpsf6smh9px.jpg.html)

Next update I should have them all mounted. No word yet on the back brakes. I’ve asked, but no answers yet. Onward.

[David Hodgkins]

That glove box is amazing! Do you have a shrinker/stretcher you created those curved tabs with?

KILLER build so far!

:)

[edwardb]

That glove box is amazing! Do you have a shrinker/stretcher you created those curved tabs with?

KILLER build so far!

:)

Thanks David! Nope, no fancy metal working tools here. I just bent the box around the wood forms, the front ring, and the full back using a hammer. With all the relief cuts for the tabs, the 28 gauge galvanized steel is pretty malleable. It's from the heating/cooling aisle at Home Depot, used for making air handling ducts. I found a piece for about $8 that was way more than enough.

[Paul Mischenko]

Wow pretty nice work Edward, that dash is impressive. I'm still waiting on brakes, axles and latches. Your making some serious progress on your build. I'm going to have to put some decent hours in having a few days off coming up. Have u decided what rubber your putting on. Was reading the recommended was 225/35 and 315/30's? Cheers

[edwardb]

Wow pretty nice work Edward, that dash is impressive. I'm still waiting on brakes, axles and latches. Your making some serious progress on your build. I'm going to have to put some decent hours in having a few days off coming up. Have u decided what rubber your putting on. Was reading the recommended was 225/35 and 315/30's? Cheers

I'm a ways away from buying tires. No advantage to having them until I'm ready to make it a roller, and they don't get better with age. Right now, I'll most likely go with the same tires FF has on the Anniversary protoptye: Toyo Proxes R888, with 255/35ZR18 fronts and 315/30ZR18 rears. There are some other brands to look at as well. Nitto NT-01's, Goodrich Rivals or Falken 615K's, to name a couple.

Hopefully you meant 255's for the front, not 225's. That's a little narrow.

[2bking]

Very nice work on the glove box and dash. If you want to try to still use the McMaster hinges, drive the hinge pin out and reversed the mounting to make it more compact.

[Paul Mischenko]

Yep, typo there meant 255. Decided I'm going to chrome the door, trunk and hood hinges. Should match the interior door latches nicely. Found someone to powder coat all the other steel parts gloss black and then the panels gray to match the frame. Given the pace of your build I was thinking you'd be driving before the snow! CHeers

[BobCarter]

Yep, typo there meant 255. Decided I'm going to chrome the door, trunk and hood hinges. Should match the interior door latches nicely. Found someone to powder coat all the other steel parts gloss black and then the panels gray to match the frame. Given the pace of your build I was thinking you'd be driving before the snow! CHeers
PaulM if you are interested in a pair of Nitto's for the rear, I have a brand new pair of 315/30 ZR18 for sale at a discount. Never been on the pavement. PM me if you are interested

[Paul Mischenko]

Thanks Bob, I'm still a long ways off from tires given my pace but will keep in mind. Got my front brakes yesterday, Jay says the rears are shipping on Dec 9th and my axels next week, so will only be waiting for the latches. Managed to get the upper control arms on, Edward you weren't kidding when you said was tight. I drilled out the frame holes and had to use the dremel on one section as it was hitting a weld but they are in. I seem to be missing the rear sway bar frame mounts so I'll have to wait for those now before moving on with IRS.
Want to wish all you fellow builders and your families a Happy Thanksgiving! Cheers

[Paul Mischenko]

Hey guys, anyone have the front sway bar installation instructions for our 20th kit they could send me? I found some online but those date 2011, seem right but just want to be sure. Many Thank

[edwardb]

Hey guys, anyone have the front sway bar installation instructions for our 20th kit they could send me? I found some online but those date 2011, seem right but just want to be sure. Many Thank

I have front sway bar, rear sway bar, and IRS installation instructions. All are .PDF files. PM your email address and tell me what you need. For the front sway bar, the document I have is dated 2015. I don't think something from 2011 would be right.

[Carlos C]

Great build so far; very detailed. I like how you made the glove box, but especially how you provide part numbers and suppliers. Great work! Although I'm building a Coupe, your build is giving me some ideas.

I'm sending you a PM for the PDF files. I'm interested to see if I can add at least the sway bars to my build. Thanks.

Carlos

[edwardb]

This will be a short update by my long-winded standards. Finished installing the front Wilwood brakes this morning after receiving them earlier this week, so thought I would go ahead and post. This was probably one of the easiest steps in the build so far. Everything fit perfectly and the instructions from Wilwood were excellent. The quality of the parts seems outstanding. The one slight glitch was none of my sockets fit the top mounting adapter to spindle bolt. It’s supposed to be tightened to 60 ft-lbs, and needed to get a socket around it to set properly. The problem is there’s not enough clearance between the bolt head and where it fits into the spindle. A quick forum search found others had experienced the same problem. Some replaced the bolt with an Allen head cap screw. Others were able to find a socket that would fit. None of mine did. I dug an unused 3/4 inch socket out of an old tool box and spun it on the face of my disk sander until the diameter was reduced enough that it would fit into the available space. Reducing it from 1.00 inch to .960 inch was all it took.

The hats are attached to the rotors with twelve 1/4 inch bolts each. The instructions say they should be installed with red Loctite and optionally safety wired. I know by experience how easy it is to snap off 1/4 inch bolts when red Loctite is used. So I used just a small dab on each one and torqued to the specified 155 in-lbs, and decided to go ahead and safety wire them. Probably not required for my intended street driving and cruising, but I wanted to give it a try since I've never done safety wires before. Picked up the safety wire twisting pliers at a local tool store (interesting tool…) and some .032 safety wire from Aircraft Spruce. I printed the referenced Wilwood safety wire instructions and watched a bunch of YouTube videos. After too much turkey and football, my brother-in-law and I sat down and took a shot at it. The first ones took awhile, and there were several do-overs. But then kind of got the hang of it and finished the first rotor. Then later finished the second one relatively quickly. The rear brakes are assembled exactly the same way, so I’ll get some more practice once they arrive.

Two down, two to go.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3692_zpsnz9xevsb.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3692_zpsnz9xevsb.jpg.html)

Closer view. Don’t look too close.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3697_zpsfnrsf185.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3697_zpsfnrsf185.jpg.html)

With the rotors assembled and mounted on the chassis, mounted and torqued the mounting bracket and then the calipers. It’s necessary to center the caliper using provided shims (washers). Mine took two of the thicker ones all the way around and they were perfectly centered. Then installed the pads, and installed the caliper for the last time.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3698_zpsakdnf95f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3698_zpsakdnf95f.jpg.html)

Last step was the stainless flex lines. I decided the flex lines worked best with the fittings in the calipers pointed down. Since it’s an NPT fitting into the caliper, I used Loctite 567 sealant on the threads. Just a light coat and kept it several threads away from the end. Then riveted the mounting plates and fittings into the F-panel openings. This is the same spot I’ve used for my other builds and I think is pretty typical. Then installed the flex lines and tightened the fittings with a flare nut wrench. No sealant on these threads! Turned the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm everything stayed where I wanted it, and called it done.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3701_zpshkyx5r1a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3701_zpshkyx5r1a.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3700_zpsatyowfoo.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3700_zpsatyowfoo.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3699_zps3hl6618o.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3699_zps3hl6618o.jpg.html)

The rear brakes are currently promised to ship December 9. Hopefully that will happen. In the meantime, my shipment of 2015 Mustang GT radiator hoses is schedule for delivery on Monday. So hopefully my next update will show those installed along with the Moroso surge tank.

[Carlos C]

Nice job safety-wiring the rotors, being your first time doing so. Am I seeing double, or do your calipers have bleeders on both ends? If not, remember that the bleeder should be on top, in order to let air out from the brake lines. I'm sure you know that, but sometimes we all can miss the simplest steps (especially when we're tired).

Carlos

[edwardb]

Nice job safety-wiring the rotors, being your first time doing so. Am I seeing double, or do your calipers have bleeders on both ends? If not, remember that the bleeder should be on top, in order to let air out from the brake lines. I'm sure you know that, but sometimes we all can miss the simplest steps (especially when we're tired).

Carlos

Thanks! Yes, I know how bleeders are supposed to go. :) These style rotors and calipers are directional, so they have to go on specific sides. You can see the arrow just above the Wilwood name on the caliper in a couple of the pics. And yes, the calipers do have bleeders on both top and bottom. The Wilwood instructions properly explain that once installed only the top ones are used for bleeding.

[Carlos C]

Well, I guess Wilwood makes it fool-proof, so even someone like me won't screw it up...

Carlos

[Paul Mischenko]

Edward, great job on the brakes. My fronts came on Wed, ordered the wires and twisting tool so will give it a shot next week.
I'm ordering the Russ Thompson trunk kit, has anyone decided on installing a battery box as well, seems to be nice one which sits just above / behind the rear center section?

[edwardb]

Edward, great job on the brakes. My fronts came on Wed, ordered the wires and twisting tool so will give it a shot next week.
I'm ordering the Russ Thompson trunk kit, has anyone decided on installing a battery box as well, seems to be nice one which sits just above / behind the rear center section?

Good luck with the safety wires. I didn't find it too hard after I got the hang of it. Once you figure out the technique and proper routing, the biggest challenge IMO is that the bolt heads you're wiring are recessed down inside the rotor. So it can be challenging to feed the wire through the bolts. I know it's for a reason, but the safety wire is surprisingly stiff. Good luck and let's see those pictures when you're done.

For the battery, no question with the limited trunk space it makes sense to get it out of the trunk. The FFMetals rear trunk box is a nice setup, and many have used it. I'm planning to use the Breeze Automotive front battery box. Used it on my last build and like it very much. I'm almost certain the front box will fit OK, but I'm waiting until I have the radiator hoses, expansion tank, and power steering installed. It's getting pretty congested up there, so just want to be sure. Plan B would be to use the FFMetals rear trunk box.

[Paul Mischenko]

I think putting it up front makes sense if it fits. Breeze looks like a decent setup. I also have a 64 MGB, that originally came with 2 6 volts just behind the rear seat, now it has as 12v battery in the trunk, would like it out of there but there's no space. Just thinking that even if I didn't use the battery box for the battery, it's a nice compartment to store some extra fluids in the trunk so they don't spill....I'm thinking I'll install the FFMetal box and if I fit the battery up front great, otherwise it's got a nice spot in the trunk.

[Paul Mischenko]

Hey Edward, quick question for you. In the process of installing the Breeze PS rack with the solid offset rack mounting kit. Did you have to grind down the frame mounts at all from interference from the boot? It seems really close so just wanted to check or did you rotate the solid bushings a little? Many thanks

[RRussellTx]

Edwardb can answer too, but I have the same step and I did need to grind down some of the mounts per the included instructions.

[edwardb]

Hey Edward, quick question for you. In the process of installing the Breeze PS rack with the solid offset rack mounting kit. Did you have to grind down the frame mounts at all from interference from the boot? It seems really close so just wanted to check or did you rotate the solid bushings a little? Many thanks


Edwardb can answer too, but I have the same step and I did need to grind down some of the mounts per the included instructions.

Really? I didn't grind anything down. Check the pics of the two sides in post #9 previously. The offset bushings should be installed with the large shoulder on the back (engine compartment side) and with the offset holes oriented towards the top. This slightly moves the rack toward the front and down. As a result, the boots touch the large frame member just slightly and the front LCA mounting ear just slightly. The frame member you can't do anything about anyway. Without the offset bushings moving the rack forward though some guys do get pretty good interference there. The trimming shown in the Breeze instructions is to the LCA mounting ears. But they're lower profile than they used to be. Personally, I don't think it's necessary to create any additional clearance. Keep in mind the suspension is hanging right now and the tie rods pointing down. At ride height, the tie rods will be almost parallel to the ground, moving the boot away from the LCA mounting ear interference.

[Paul Mischenko]

Thanks guys, Yep have the bushings installed correctly with the hole on the top. Edward from looking at your photos it didn't look like you had to grind anything but just wanted to ask to be sure as I can't seem to get it lined up. Will trying adjusting the solid spacers and keep trying. Cheers

[BobCarter]

This will be a short update by my long-winded standards. Finished installing the front Wilwood brakes this morning after receiving them earlier this week, so thought I would go ahead and post. This was probably one of the easiest steps in the build so far. Everything fit perfectly and the instructions from Wilwood were excellent. The quality of the parts seems outstanding. The one slight glitch was none of my sockets fit the top mounting adapter to spindle bolt. It’s supposed to be tightened to 60 ft-lbs, and needed to get a socket around it to set properly. The problem is there’s not enough clearance between the bolt head and where it fits into the spindle. A quick forum search found others had experienced the same problem. Some replaced the bolt with an Allen head cap screw. Others were able to find a socket that would fit. None of mine did. I dug an unused 3/4 inch socket out of an old tool box and spun it on the face of my disk sander until the diameter was reduced enough that it would fit into the available space. Reducing it from 1.00 inch to .960 inch was all it took.

The hats are attached to the rotors with twelve 1/4 inch bolts each. The instructions say they should be installed with red Loctite and optionally safety wired. I know by experience how easy it is to snap off 1/4 inch bolts when red Loctite is used. So I used just a small dab on each one and torqued to the specified 155 in-lbs, and decided to go ahead and safety wire them. Probably not required for my intended street driving and cruising, but I wanted to give it a try since I've never done safety wires before. Picked up the safety wire twisting pliers at a local tool store (interesting tool…) and some .032 safety wire from Aircraft Spruce. I printed the referenced Wilwood safety wire instructions and watched a bunch of YouTube videos. After too much turkey and football, my brother-in-law and I sat down and took a shot at it. The first ones took awhile, and there were several do-overs. But then kind of got the hang of it and finished the first rotor. Then later finished the second one relatively quickly. The rear brakes are assembled exactly the same way, so I’ll get some more practice once they arrive.

Two down, two to go.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3692_zpsnz9xevsb.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3692_zpsnz9xevsb.jpg.html)

Closer view. Don’t look too close.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3697_zpsfnrsf185.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3697_zpsfnrsf185.jpg.html)

With the rotors assembled and mounted on the chassis, mounted and torqued the mounting bracket and then the calipers. It’s necessary to center the caliper using provided shims (washers). Mine took two of the thicker ones all the way around and they were perfectly centered. Then installed the pads, and installed the caliper for the last time.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3698_zpsakdnf95f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3698_zpsakdnf95f.jpg.html)

Last step was the stainless flex lines. I decided the flex lines worked best with the fittings in the calipers pointed down. Since it’s an NPT fitting into the caliper, I used Loctite 567 sealant on the threads. Just a light coat and kept it several threads away from the end. Then riveted the mounting plates and fittings into the F-panel openings. This is the same spot I’ve used for my other builds and I think is pretty typical. Then installed the flex lines and tightened the fittings with a flare nut wrench. No sealant on these threads! Turned the steering wheel lock-to-lock to confirm everything stayed where I wanted it, and called it done.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3701_zpshkyx5r1a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3701_zpshkyx5r1a.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3700_zpsatyowfoo.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3700_zpsatyowfoo.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3699_zps3hl6618o.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3699_zps3hl6618o.jpg.html)

The rear brakes are currently promised to ship December 9. Hopefully that will happen. In the meantime, my shipment of 2015 Mustang GT radiator hoses is schedule for delivery on Monday. So hopefully my next update will show those installed along with the Moroso surge tank.

Bob C here, 20th Anniv. No.2. Lots of promises from FFR on Wilwood shipments but as of today, no tracking no., no shipment. :-(

[edwardb]

This week I’ve nearly completed the installation and prove-out of the radiator and coolant expansion tank hook-ups. As mentioned in an earlier update, I decided to go with the Mustang radiator and coolant setup versus the FF described setup using the T-filler and simple overflow tank. It’s slightly more complicated, but I think (hope) in the end is maybe better since it’s how our friendly Ford engineers intended the cooling system to work. Thanks to previous Coyote builds and postings, I was able to find most of the necessary information. So thanks for that! I will provide updated details including 2015 Mustang part numbers, since there are a few changes.

First order of business was the coolant expansion tank itself. Many previous builds have used the stock expansion tank. It wasn’t bad looking, fit OK, and the price is reasonable. However, the design was changed for the 2015 version, and it’s not so good looking. It’s been affectionately dubbed the turtle, and probably some not quite so nice. Here's a picture from a stock Mustang.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/2015-mustang-50-engine_cropped_zps6ooxltji.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/2015-mustang-50-engine_cropped_zps6ooxltji.jpg.html)

I chose instead to install the 2015 Mustang replacement tank pictured previously, a Moroso 63806. About an $85 upgrade ($70 vs. $155) but I’ll take it. I spent quite a bit of time figuring out the best location that met up with the hoses, cleared everything including the hood, etc. Then I fabricated some mounting brackets that matched the stock mounting locations on the Moroso tank. This is one of the times where I realize I will never build one of these in the 200-300 hour range as FF suggests. It’s pretty crazy how many hours you can spend coming up with the best design, fabricating the parts, completing the do-overs, etc. until all is good. The tank uses two bolts along the front and then a mounting receptacle on the bottom. I decided to hang it off the 3/4 inch upper radiator mounting tube and rest on the fan shroud. I first made some brackets out of .090 inch aluminum. But I wasn’t satisfied with the rigidity or the appearance of cracks/fracturing when making the bends. Even over a soft radius. So I switched up and made the brackets out of 1/8 thick x 1 inch wide mild steel strip stock from HD. Riveted them to the front of the 3/4 inch tube and wrapped around to the back where I installed 5/16 rivet nuts. For the mounting receptacle, made it out of three stacked pieces of the same material and bolted to the top of the fan shroud. Takes lots of time to get these just right, in the right location, etc. I sprayed with the same Rust-Oleum used for touch up in other places. Matches the Anniversary powder coat pretty OK, and nearly hidden when all done. There is the final mounting bracketry. Looks innocent enough, but lots of work there:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3708_zpsmfo7d5dm.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3708_zpsmfo7d5dm.jpg.html)

Then installed the upper radiator hose and lower tank hose. I’ll give the part numbers for this stuff at the end.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3707_zps2yo9gxsi.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3707_zps2yo9gxsi.jpg.html)

Then installed the tank.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3709_zpss1jec4wi.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3709_zpss1jec4wi.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3710_zpsci4slnrv.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3710_zpsci4slnrv.jpg.html)

Looks good and I’m really happy with how it turned out. But even though I checked and double checked the dimensions, I began to have some doubt about whether I had it low enough to clear the hood. This is where it’s a huge luxury to have a completed Mk4 available. I measured exactly where the hood sits relative to the 3/4 inch hood frame, and set it in place on the new build.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3705_zpsxg2pmbax.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3705_zpsxg2pmbax.jpg.html)

Confirmed that all was good. Tank and cap clear everything by an inch or so. I also noted that the larger and taller looking Coyote engine cover easily fits under the hood. I did find though that my also carefully calculated brake and clutch reservoirs were at basically zero clearance. So adjusted them down about 3/8 inch, and all is good there as well.

One of the hoses goes from the tank to the DS of the radiator. It’s required you remove the supplied petcock and replace with a hose barb. I used this Gardner-Westcott J9033 hose barb to pipe fitting from Summit. The Ford hose will need to be trimmed a bit to route properly. Note this hose has a one-way check valve at the tank end, which needs to be left alone. I guess that’s also why it’s a $50 part. Fortunately, the only one that expensive.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3711_zpse5gigdo8.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3711_zpse5gigdo8.jpg.html)

So for other 2015 Coyote builds if you are interested, here are the specific parts used:
CL3Z-8260-A or KM-5114 - Upper radiator hose. This is actually a 2012 F150 upper hose. As others have found, fits a bit better than the Mustang upper hose with its longer straight section. It has the quick disconnect on the engine side. Then cut it right at the sharp bend (check carefully!) and it plugs perfectly into the Afco upper connection.
FR3Z-8C289-B - Large tank bottom to engine.
FR3Z-8075-C – Hose from tank top/front to radiator, including one-way check valve described earlier.
DG9Z-8100-A - Stock Mustang reservoir cap. There are shiny aftermarket billet versions available, but this one at < $4 is a bargain.
FR3Z-8276-B - Hose from the overflow tank top/rear to the water neck near the throttle body. This part I was unable to find at any Ford part location. Several reported back they had no promise dates from Ford. Fortunately, it’s a simple hose, so will just make it up from stock material. The tank side is 3/8 inch ID, the engine side is 5/16 ID. So will require a reducer. But that’s easy.
Dayco 71713, Jegs 679-MB1040, Breeze Automotive 70612 – These are the parts used to make up the lower radiator hose. Previously described and pictured, but thought I would add the details here to make a complete list.

Finally, since I’m not installing a heater, I will make up a heater bypass hose as recommended by Ford Racing and mentioned before, rather than just capping the connections. I have the Gates 28504 heater hose connectors on the way, and will connect the inlet and outlet as recommended. There is supposed to be a 5/16 inch restrictor in the line, which I’m planning to fabricate since I can’t find anything that meets that description. No big deal. When all is said and done, the only remaining connections on the front of the engine not accounted for are the vacuum port and fuel evaporator intake tube just behind the throttle body. Those will be capped per the FF Coyote instructions.

I received an email directly from Wilwood this past Thursday apologizing for the Anniversary brake delays, and promising my rear brakes will ship next week arriving before the weekend. I understand all Anniversary buyers received a similar message. Hopefully they will deliver on their promises and we all can get this behind us. I’m looking forward to wrapping up the brake installation and moving to brake lines, fuel lines, etc.

[edwardb]

Friday I received my second 50 pound shipment from Wilwood. The rear brakes. This is a milestone on two fronts. First, I now have the complete set of long awaited Anniversary Edition Wilwood brakes. Second, it’s the last item on my shortage and/or missing list for my kit. I am now officially 100% complete.

Just a couple words about this subject. I am a huge fan of Factory Five products (obviously) and have the highest respect for the company and their products. They’ve allowed me to do something I’ve always wanted to do, and have a final product that I’m proud to own and a blast to show and drive. But I think they have room for improvement in the order fulfillment and delivery process. I fully realize the Anniversary Edition has some unique parts plus it is (I think) the first customer deliveries of the new 2015 Mustang IRS setup. So some shortages and delays maybe could be expected. But I was honestly pretty surprised when I saw the length of the backorder list when I picked up my kit, then added some items that were missing or just plain not accounted for. Everyone at FF was super friendly and helpful during every phone call and/or email. But it’s been six months since I ordered my kit, and four plus months since I picked it up. IMO that's really not acceptable. Especially the extended delays and missed promises for the Wilwood brakes. And they require 100% payment up front before taking delivery on anything. Hmm... But now it’s finally complete. I’m confident this will soon be a distant memory, and forgotten entirely once the build is completed. Owning and driving one of these will do that to you. But especially for first-time customers, this all has to be pretty disappointing. I spent my career doing multiple business continuous improvement projects. I would suggest this is something FF may want to focus on. Premium freight alone has to be significant. OK, enough about that. And I don’t want to turn my build thread into a rant on this subject. For me it’s done. I know there are others still waiting for a number of parts. Hopefully you too will soon get to this point.

After completing the front brakes a couple weeks ago, the rear brakes went together very quickly. Again, the parts and instructions from Wilwood were top notch. Everything fit perfectly, and exactly like the instructions. I was interested (and maybe a little nervous) about the bracketry for the 2015 Mustang IRS knuckles, but it was fine. Not much to do except post some pictures.

The rears also use a separate rotor and hat assembly that is bolted together and optionally safety wired. I chose to do the safety wires like on the fronts. Getting a little better at it I guess. At least a little faster. Took me about an hour for each rotor and hat. The rotors are the same diameter as the fronts, but slightly thinner. The hats are different too. Different offset and don't require the adapter rings for the hub.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3728_zpsrinxnwql.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3728_zpsrinxnwql.jpg.html)

Shims are used to center the 4-piston caliper to the rotor, and also the height of the caliper on the mounting bracket. All was easy to set up just like described in the instructions. The rears use a separate parking brake caliper. So it’s quite an assembly when completed.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3737_zpsdd49tanf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3737_zpsdd49tanf.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3734_zpsxkogimrf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3734_zpsxkogimrf.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3732_zpsd0gp60rx.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3732_zpsd0gp60rx.jpg.html)

I routed the e-brake cables per the instructions, and looks OK to the rear mounting holes. I’m going to look for alternatives to going under the 4 inch tube to the handle. Still can’t get my head around that, even though I know many do it and it’s fine. The instructions don’t specifically say where to mount the chassis end of the flex hoses, but I could kind of see them in some of the pictures and ended up (I think) in the same locations. This should provide easy enough access to the brake lines.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3716_zpsfxavffqz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3716_zpsfxavffqz.jpg.html)

I had to drag out one of the 18 inch rear wheels to check the clearance and also just see what it looked like on there. Clearance all good. They are huge though.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3730_zpsdhh71fzj.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3730_zpsdhh71fzj.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3731_zpsaq7grkdb.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_3731_zpsaq7grkdb.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

Earlier this week, I pretty much finished up all the cooling lines, vacuum, and PCV hoses on the front of the Coyote. Here you can see the crossover from the inlet to outlet of the heater connections. Ford Racing recommends if not using a heater (I’m not) to connect the two with a 5/16 inch restrictor in the line. I received the Gates quick connects mentioned in my last post and made up the hose. Wasn’t sure what to do for a restrictor. I ended up with a 3/4 inch long steel bushing from the hardware store that I drilled out to 5/16 inch and put in the hose held by the clamp pictured. I also completed the hose from the water neck to the top of the expansion tank. This is the one I mentioned in my last update that wasn’t available anywhere from Ford. Easy enough to make up, except that the water neck connection was 5/16 ID, and the tank 3/8 ID. So searched around and found an adapter and it’s done. I also made up the PCV hose to the bottom of the Spectre intake on the DS, and decided to re-do the PS with the same hose and placing the JLT Performance oil separator a little more neatly.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3718_zpspbovjyr7.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3718_zpspbovjyr7.jpg.html)

Here you can see the connections I made to the Spectre intake. The top one is for the CMCV system, and the lower one (just visible, sorry) is the DS PCV line. I used connectors from JLT Performance mentioned in some other Coyote build threads. They are aluminum, and fit into a rubber grommet in the intake. I used some Permatex Ultra Black RTV when installing them. Seems to work perfectly. The factory connectors clip right on.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3721_zps4ly6jd2j.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3721_zps4ly6jd2j.jpg.html)

All those hoses and such look pretty messy. No way to make things very pretty. That I can figure out anyway. Looks a little better with the cover in place.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3722_zpszmma5ywr.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3722_zpszmma5ywr.jpg.html)

Just a few more details to wrap up on the engine. Mainly power steering and then a final decision about battery location. Then it will be back out so I can finish installing all the aluminum panels. Right now doesn’t appear that I will have any space issues in the front of the engine. But it’s sure busy in there. Onward!

[2bking]

.... placing the JLT Performance oil separator a little more neatly.
The JLT oil separator works and accumulates more oil than I expected. With just a little more than 150 miles on mine now, I checked the separator and it had about a quarter cup of oil in it. I recommend this device for anyone running the Coyote engine.

[edwardb]

As updates go, this is pretty minor and maybe even a little trivial. But I’ve covered a number of aspects related to the 2015-2016 Coyote installation, and this is one that has to be dealt with. So I'll share what I did. The 2011-2014 Coyote crate motor control pack has a tach connection in the dash harness. Obviously very easy to attach to the tach gauge and away you go. I could not find any mention of a tach connection in the instructions for the 2015-2016 Coyote control pack, so included this in a list of questions when I talked to Ford Racing tech support. The response was (1) No, there isn’t a tach connection in the new control pack, (2) Look at all the other improvements you received (uh…ok…), (3) Recommended using something like an Autometer tach adapter.

I briefly looked at the Autometer piece ($80-90) and didn’t look too bad to wire up. But would have to break into several wires in the Coyote harness. Then I looked at the Speedhut directions for the tach. Good news! One wire to connect and nothing to buy. All that’s needed is a single connection to one of the coil on plug trigger wires, and then calibrate the tach to 1 pulse per 2 revolutions or 1/2 pulse per 1 revolution. In looking at the Coyote wiring to each coil on plug, there are only two wires. One is the same color for all (purple) and the other is a different color for each. According to the Speedhut instructions, this different colored wire is the trigger wire.

So today I decided to add the tach wire. It doesn’t matter which cylinder is selected. I chose #7. I will have other wires running to the gauges on that side (water temp, oil pressure) so this one can join the bundle. Instead of #8 (closest to the firewall) I chose #7 so the end of the connection will still be under the engine cover. After unplugging the connector to the coil on plug and pulling it free to expose the full length, I chose the location where I would break into it. About 3/4 of an inch from where it splits out of the harness to the coil and another branch to the injector. Using a brand new sharp X-Acto blade and a jeweler’s loupe, I carefully cut away about an inch of the tape wrap and then shaved about 3/8 of an inch of insulation from the yellow (in this case) trigger wire. Getting up close like that with a loupe was probably way overkill. But I was determined to not damage anything, nick any wires, whatever. Mission accomplished.

Then I made up the tach connection wire 3-4 inches long using a female spade connector crimped and lightly soldered on one end, and shrink sleeve over the wire and the connector. I wanted a crimped connection to the trigger wire, so cut the crimp end off the right size spade connector and used that to crimp the tach wire onto the exposed trigger wire. I was just able to get a wire crimper in there. Then I put a light touch of solder on the joint, wrapped it back up, and put on a cable tie so the tach wire isn’t pulling on the connection. Only a couple hours work, but now I have a tach connection and I’m satisfied it will work long term and I didn’t do anything to harm the engines wiring harness. BTW, there have been endless threads about whether to solder or not to solder. Let’s not make this one of them. I have a professional quality Weller solder station and have been doing this kind of thing for years. I just put the lightest touch on each connection and apply the heat and solder in such a way that there’s little/no wicking up the wires. I will typically do the same thing with the rest of the chassis wiring with the exception of Weatherpack style connectors. I have a dedicated crimper tool for those connectors and find it makes excellent folded crimps that don’t need additional solder. But I digress. Here are some pics.

Location where I broke into the harness:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3740_zps0xxujhuo.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3740_zps0xxujhuo.jpg.html)

Attachment to the yellow trigger wire. Note all eight cylinders have a purple wire on one side of the connector, the other side is different for each. #7 happens to be yellow:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3741_zpso0po5anz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3741_zpso0po5anz.jpg.html)

All re-wrapped, in place, and tach wire available for connection to the gauge:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3743_zpsppvodqfh.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3743_zpsppvodqfh.jpg.html)

Tomorrow my power steering components are scheduled for delivery, so my next update will be about that. I looked at a number of power steering options, and will share what I chose and why along with the installation.

[Paul Mischenko]

Hey Edwardb, With the year coming to a close I'd just like to thank you again for all your detailed posts. It's certainly been a huge help as a first time builder, so thanks again. While not as quick as i'd like I'm making a little progress, Breeze PS rack is in, took a little muscling but done, RT rear trunk box done, front brakes installed last weekend, still waiting on my rear sway bar mounts from the PC, but will hopefully finish up the IRS next. I'm all up to date with parts except for the door latches...maybe I'll get them on the 25th! Wishing all you guys Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays and all the best for 2016, good luck with the builds! Cheers

[dougski]

I second Paul's comments, not only on this build but your previous projects as well. Many thanks to you and all of the more experienced builders that share their time with those of us that are new to this. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Doug

[edwardb]

Thanks guys! I'm enjoying sharing this build. It's very cool that it has several new aspects, and especially enjoyable knowing that others are following during their first builds. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all.

[edwardb]

It’s been a little while since my last update. Family visits and travel during the holidays will do that. All good, and a little bit of a break was good. Also my usual waiting for parts. The first time, and then the do-overs. I’m sure that doesn’t happen to anyone else. Tonight I finished the mock-up of the power steering installation. It will all come back out when I take the engine out in the next week or two. But it should go back in for good very quickly when the time comes.

First a few words about power steering. For me it’s not a complicated discussion. My first build didn’t have power steering. It was my single regret from the build. My second did, and what a difference. Yes it’s about effort, mainly at slower speeds and parking. But it also allows significantly more caster in the front end alignment (from around +4 to +8) which gives the car better straight line tracking and high speed stability. It just makes the car such a pleasure to drive. For a Coyote build, it does get a little interesting though. Ford doesn’t install engine driven power steering in any of their cars using the Coyote. Like more and more modern cars, they are using electric power steering. So any engine driven setup for the Coyote will come from the aftermarket.

I won’t get real deep into the options, but there are several that I looked at. All go on the passenger side of the engine. Ford Racing sells an adjustable bracket that mounts near the bottom, and then uses a mod motor stock pump. This is the setup Factory Five has on the prototype Anniversary Roadster. It’s not cheap though. The bracket alone is around $250. Some guys have reported interference problems with the pulley and the frame. Another choice is a homemade bracket instead of the Ford Racing one, and then again a mod motor stock pump. Another forum member sent me the pattern, and it wouldn’t be hard to make. The other two choices place the pump more in the center of the passenger side. Eliminates the possible frame interference issue, but this is also the Ford location for the A/C compressor. So if A/C is in your build plan, these won’t work for you. One is sold by Forte. Looks good, but also isn’t cheap and again uses a stock mod motor pump. Another choice, and the one I chose, is a setup from KRC Power Steering. Again, certainly not cheap. I guess that’s a common theme for any of the choices when you add everything up. But for me there were several advantages that swayed me to KRC. First it’s an aftermarket pump that seems very high quality. It comes with AN fittings as standard. If you want to use AN hoses (I did) it completely eliminates fumbling around with the various adapters, O-rings, etc. With the provided pulleys it runs the proper RPM. One of the biggest advantages IMO is that has a provision for changeable flow valves. This allows you to tailor the amount of boost. They’re easy to change, although not as easy as twisting the knob on a Heidts valve. But for my driving I don’t need that. Several other forum Coyote builds have been with the KRC setup, which I have studied carefully. Thanks guys! All report excellent results.

Mid-December I placed my order for the KRC components directly with KRC. I received everything in just a couple of days. The KRC setup includes a new water pump pulley with a second pulley for the power steering drive. I mounted everything up, and unfortunately immediately noted a problem. The power steering pump and the drive pulley on the water pump were over 1/2 inch misaligned. I’ll spare you the long version of the story and just give this hint: Buy the complete setup under part number 66302050. Don’t do what I did and buy the cast iron pump and engine mounting kit separately. If you do, you will get the wrong power steering pump pulley. After a couple calls to KRC, we figured out the problem, they shipped the right pulley, I returned the wrong one, and all was OK. It was all a little bit harder than it had to be though, and I’ll leave it at that. Buy the complete setup and you’ll be OK. Another hint. KRC is sold through various other outlets. I see the setup listed at Summit, Jegs, Pegasus, etc. And it seems to be a bit cheaper. Still apparently shipped directly from KRC.

OK, enough about that. On to the installation. Here’s all the pieces you get. The blue colored piece right in the middle of the picture is the flow control valve. Based on forum recommendations for the cast iron pump, I chose the #4 valve, which is flow rated at 1.66 GPM. The valve is mounted in the top of the pump, and has the -6 AN threads for the high pressure pump output. To change the valve, disconnect the hose, remove the valve, install the new valve, replace the hose. It's that simple.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Power%20Steering/IMG_3745_zpszibzervs.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Power%20Steering/IMG_3745_zpszibzervs.jpg.html)

The pump bracket is held in place by three bolts, supplied with the bracket. They replace these front cover bolts on the Coyote, marked with blue tape for the picture:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Power%20Steering/IMG_3752_zpsnzbbwzdw.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Power%20Steering/IMG_3752_zpsnzbbwzdw.jpg.html)

This is the pump bracket on the front of the engine. There are spacers between the bracket and the engine. I hadn't installed them yet when this picture was taken:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Power%20Steering/IMG_3751_zpszadb8ltm.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Power%20Steering/IMG_3751_zpszadb8ltm.jpg.html)

And with the pump, new water pump pulley, and serpentine belt installed:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Power%20Steering/IMG_3774_zpsodh8jb1s.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Power%20Steering/IMG_3774_zpsodh8jb1s.jpg.html)

I looked at a number of options, and decided on the KRC 91515000 reservoir. It’s a nice piece with an internal baffle. Many of the reservoirs out there aren’t baffled. I settled on this location on the F panel. It’s a little tight to the engine and pump, but works out OK and keeps the overall plumbing layout relatively simple. The instructions from KRC say that the top of the fluid inside the reservoir must be at least two inches above the top of the pump. I easily meet that requirement. The bottom of the tank is just slightly below the top of the pump. My biggest concern was the relatively tight bend for the return hose from the bottom of the tank to the pump. I tried a number of -10 AN fittings and ended up with a straight and right angle. Regular -10 AN braided stainless was way too stiff to make this bend. So I tried the Aeroquip StartLite Aramid hose, which has the same liner as braided stainless but is much more flexible. I think it’s going to be OK.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Power%20Steering/IMG_3772_zps7tolk1t0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Power%20Steering/IMG_3772_zps7tolk1t0.jpg.html)

For all the high pressure hose, I used braided stainless Teflon lined hose and fittings from Mark at Breeze Automotive. I bought exactly what I needed, and managed to ruin one of the hoses trying to re-use one of the little ferrules contained in these kind of connectors. I’m not even going to try to explain what I did, but it was a learning experience. Another quick order to Breeze and I was good to go. Here are the lines coming out of the PS rack:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Power%20Steering/IMG_3777_zpsevvgqrae.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Power%20Steering/IMG_3777_zpsevvgqrae.jpg.html)

Crossing behind the radiator and cooling fan:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Power%20Steering/IMG_3778_zps3irxv7ko.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Power%20Steering/IMG_3778_zps3irxv7ko.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

I included a small cooler on the return line to the reservoir. I mounted it on the passenger side of the radiator cooling shroud. I don’t know if it’s really needed, but much easier to do now than later. I used the same exact Derale 13310 on my last build.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Power%20Steering/IMG_0205_zpsyizjbcsf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Power%20Steering/IMG_0205_zpsyizjbcsf.jpg.html)

That’s about it for the power steering. While waiting for parts, I’ve continued to make progress drilling panels and getting them ready for powder coat. I have all the trunk pieces done, and starting on the cockpit. I’ve decided I have room for the front mounted battery, so will be ordering that kit from Breeze next. Just a few more details and a lot of note taking, and the engine will come back out so I can finalize all the sheet metal and power wiring. I've been working on my fuel and brake line material list and layout. Getting close I think. Yesterday I checked the FF stock e-brake handle and the provided Wilwood cables. Looks like it's going to work OK, but I still just can't get used to routing the cables under the 4 inch chassis tube. I've managed to avoid that on my other builds. May not be so lucky this time. One thing I noticed was that the separate Wilwood e-brake calipers require very little cable movement to actuate.

[Jazzman]

Looks very well designed, as per usual. Did you decide to attach the reservoir directly to the F panel with bolts, rivets, or is there some sort of a bracket hidden behind the reservoir? Based upon your usual detailed explanation, it appears to be attached directly. Is there any concern that the thin aluminum F panel may not be strong enough to support this piece and the ongoing vibration it will receive? As always, thank you for your detailed descriptions and photos.

[carlewms]

EdwardB,

The KRC power system setup looks great. I really like the valve adjustment to change boost.

"Yesterday I checked the FF stock e-brake handle and the provided Wilwood cables. Looks like it's going to work OK, but I still just can't get used to routing the cables under the 4 inch chassis tube. I've managed to avoid that on my other builds. May not be so lucky this time."

I did not like the setup that puts the cables running under the 4 inch chassis tube and solved it by using a Lokar cable kit with a modified FFR e-brake mechanism.

Here is the drawing showing the difference between the supplied lever and the one I made.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6df22b3127cceeb52e126cffb00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160103101233438.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

In addition to the Lokar cables, I used the following Lokar parts ...

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6df22b3127cceeb52e753cf8d00000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160103101301858.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Here is the final assembly ... the bottom of the extended lever does not drop below the 4" round tube.

https://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a6df22b3127cceeb528ff84e2200000030O09AaOGbRo2bA9 vPhg/cC/f%3D0/ls%3D00006064438420160103101616593.JPG/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/

Carl

[edwardb]

Looks very well designed, as per usual. Did you decide to attach the reservoir directly to the F panel with bolts, rivets, or is there some sort of a bracket hidden behind the reservoir? Based upon your usual detailed explanation, it appears to be attached directly. Is there any concern that the thin aluminum F panel may not be strong enough to support this piece and the ongoing vibration it will receive? As always, thank you for your detailed descriptions and photos.

The reservoir is attached to the F panel with bolts through mounting ears on the sides of the tank. You can just see the front one on the picture I posted. The F panel is plenty strong for the reservoir. On my other Mk4, I bolted the PS reservoir on one F panel, and the radiator overflow tank on the other. Zero issues. The one thing I did do on this build though was to use rivnuts so I could install/remove the reservoir without having to chase nuts and washers inside the wheel well. Rather than putting them directly in the F panel, I made a backing plate and installed them there. This is also maybe a little more rigid since it doubles the aluminum. I will have it powder coated white to match the F panel (gotta keep those inner wheel wells neat and clean :)) and then stick in place with some adhesive. The 5/16 inch nutserts are way overkill, but what I had on hand. Plus matches the hardware on the radiator expansion tank. I also need to find some shorter bolts or trim the ones I used. Snapped a quick pic this morning:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Power%20Steering/IMG_0206_zpsfixgbfn9.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Power%20Steering/IMG_0206_zpsfixgbfn9.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

I did not like the setup that puts the cables running under the 4 inch chassis tube and solved it by using a Lokar cable kit with a modified FFR e-brake mechanism. Carl

Thanks for positing those to my build thread. I actually found your pics and write-up while searching and looking at what others have done. I saved and printed the pictures and is one of the solutions I'm going to look at. It's a very nice and well executed solution. I'm just not sure how the extended lever, meaning the handle will need to move less, will work with the Wilwood e-brake calipers that require so little actual cable movement. But this is the first thing I'm going to try. I will mock it up somehow and see how it works. I think I could use the existing cables and hardware. They would just have to be shortened a little. We'll see. Thanks again.

[edwardb]

As updates go, this is about as trivial as it gets. But still represents a pretty big milestone. Yesterday I disassembled much of what I’ve been working on the past weeks, took a lot of pictures, took a number of measurements, and made a few pages of notes. Then today we (my trusty wife and I) took the Coyote back out of the chassis. It’s not hard without most of the sheet metal and the trans, but still a tight fit. Had a bit of a setback when I unfolded my couple year old Harbor Freight 2-ton shop crane and it didn’t work. No pressure on the handle when pumping and no movement. I figured a major malfunction, but a quick Google search and found the solution. Needed the “valves flushed.” There was a specific sequence of opening and closing the valve and manually moving the lift arm, and it was good to go. Is this anything like exercising the muffler bearings? Now onward with finishing the sheet metal and getting powder coated and installed, putting in the power wiring, brake lines, fuel lines, and spraying some Lizard Skin. Then the Coyote with the TKO this time will go back in hopefully for the last time. I'm expecting in a few months.

4 degrees here this morning. My heated garage stayed warm enough, but I'm sure jealous of you guys out there in warm climates that are driving right now. Oh well, some pics:

Empty engine bay:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3786_zpsygrhr0gr.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3786_zpsygrhr0gr.jpg.html)

Coyote out. I’ll tuck in the corner of the garage for a bit.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3779_zpsptdopecv.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3779_zpsptdopecv.jpg.html)

Nice to have the lift back in play again. I couldn’t use it while I had the engine propped in place. Man I got spoiled fast with that thing.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3785_zpszjsrfdad.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3785_zpszjsrfdad.jpg.html)

Collection of stuff removed and now in the basement. I expect to go back in very quickly the next time:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3788_zpstwypsbmb.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3788_zpstwypsbmb.jpg.html)

[Jazzman]

You're right, it sure is cold today! It got down to 55 in the shop yesterday before I turned on my little space heater! Sunday when I worked in the shop I had to give up my standard shorts and t-shirt for long pants and a short sleeve t-shirt because it dropped to 65 with the garage door open and the sun shining!! :) Of course you will be the one laughing in July when it is 115 here in the shade.

Glad the engine came out so smoothly. Aren't wives wonderful! Mine steps in and helps when I need a second pair of hands too.

Why did you decide to remove the radiator? Since it is in front of the X frame and the steering rack, did it somehow restrict the engine from coming out? Or was it necessary to remove the radiator in order to get the shop crane close enough to lift the engine safely?

I notice you have a hole cut in the firewall to route cable through. Why did you choose this location as opposed to using the already provided hole on the PS of the firewall? What size hole did you cut and did you use some sort of rubber grommet to protect the cables? Do you plan to try to seal the hole to prevent heat from entering the cockpit? (Oh that's right, it was 4 degrees there yesterday! You aren't concerned with heat coming in, only heat going out!! ;)

At the rate you are going, you will be ready to unveil this work of art at Huntington Beach in April!

[Carlos C]

You ain't lying about the cold weather. It was 64 degrees today in Apollo Beach, FL. I almost broke out a long-sleeve t-shirt.

I'm interested in your two-post lift. Can you share where you purchased it, and a part number? I'm looking to get one for my garage. How do you like yours?

Carlos

[edwardb]

You're right, it sure is cold today! It got down to 55 in the shop yesterday before I turned on my little space heater! Sunday when I worked in the shop I had to give up my standard shorts and t-shirt for long pants and a short sleeve t-shirt because it dropped to 65 with the garage door open and the sun shining!! :) Of course you will be the one laughing in July when it is 115 here in the shade.

Glad the engine came out so smoothly. Aren't wives wonderful! Mine steps in and helps when I need a second pair of hands too.

Why did you decide to remove the radiator? Since it is in front of the X frame and the steering rack, did it somehow restrict the engine from coming out? Or was it necessary to remove the radiator in order to get the shop crane close enough to lift the engine safely?

I notice you have a hole cut in the firewall to route cable through. Why did you choose this location as opposed to using the already provided hole on the PS of the firewall? What size hole did you cut and did you use some sort of rubber grommet to protect the cables? Do you plan to try to seal the hole to prevent heat from entering the cockpit? (Oh that's right, it was 4 degrees there yesterday! You aren't concerned with heat coming in, only heat going out!! ;)

At the rate you are going, you will be ready to unveil this work of art at Huntington Beach in April!


You ain't lying about the cold weather. It was 64 degrees today in Apollo Beach, FL. I almost broke out a long-sleeve t-shirt.

I'm interested in your two-post lift. Can you share where you purchased it, and a part number? I'm looking to get one for my garage. How do you like yours?

Carlos

Alright you guys, you're supposed to feel sorry for us freezing up here in the frigid north. Not give me a hard time and complain about maybe putting on a sweater. I'll remember that come summer time where we're out cruising all day in the beautiful 70-80 degree Michigan weather and you can't go out after 9:00 AM. :mad:

OK, on to more productive things. The radiator does need to be out of the way in order for the shop crane to reach if you're loading the engine from the front. That's with the 2-ton I have out to the longest setting. It's possible to load in from the side, and some guys do that. And with the body on it's pretty much the only choice. But I strongly prefer doing it this way if I can. With the body off, I think it's the most common method. The wiring and power distribution box in that picture is the Coyote controls pack wiring. I don't remember the exact size of the hole, but it fits the grommet included with the Coyote harness. That's pretty much the only location for everything to work. I'll caulk it up good when it's permanently installed, and I'm not expecting any heat issues from it. If you're not using a Coyote, ignore that stuff. For the Ron Francis harness, the front harness comes through the top of the driver's side footbox, and the rear harness at the top side of the driver's footbox. You typically need a couple of small holes in the firewall for the gauge senders, choke, power wires, etc. But nothing like that big hole. The 2-post life it a Danmar MaxJax. http://www.maxjaxusa.com/. It's pretty basic, but fits my garage perfectly. I'm happy with it, and the difference in comfort and convenience while working on the car is amazing. My body just wasn't going to take another build crawling on the ground and rolling on my back using jackstands. They're available all over the place. Google it. When I was shopping the best price I found was Costco, so that's where I got it. I've had it for about 1-1/2 years now.

[jceckard]

I've been eyeing the MaxJax too. Never thought to look at Costco. Just checked their website and they have it on sale this week for $1800.

[mcduke3]

Thank you for the great build thread. Despite my lack of experience working on cars, I am planning on one day building a FFR roadster. I'm learning a lot following this build thread just as I did reading your previous build thread. Lots of note taking and considerations to think about.

You commented on how you are glad to have your MaxJax lift back in play again. I'm assuming this means you could not use it while the engine was temporarily in the car? Was this due to weight balance with the car only partially assembled? I'm assuming it is not due to the overall weight. Just curious why it was not in play. I'm considering a two-post lift like MaxJax for my yet-to-be-built garage - one of my dependencies to starting my own build. Thanks

[edwardb]

Thank you for the great build thread. Despite my lack of experience working on cars, I am planning on one day building a FFR roadster. I'm learning a lot following this build thread just as I did reading your previous build thread. Lots of note taking and considerations to think about.

You commented on how you are glad to have your MaxJax lift back in play again. I'm assuming this means you could not use it while the engine was temporarily in the car? Was this due to weight balance with the car only partially assembled? I'm assuming it is not due to the overall weight. Just curious why it was not in play. I'm considering a two-post lift like MaxJax for my yet-to-be-built garage - one of my dependencies to starting my own build. Thanks

Welcome to the forum! Thanks for the nice words and glad you find the build threads helpful. For you question about the lift, my comment had nothing to do with the MaxJax itself. It has plenty of capacity (6,000 lbs) and balance isn't an issue. The situation was the way I mocked up the Coyote in the engine compartment without the transmission. I did that because the Coyote was easier to get in and out that way, plus I haven't even purchased the TKO yet. So the engine was being held only by the two front engine mounts, and did not include the normal rear transmission mount. As a result, I had blocks under the front and back of the engine to keep it stable plus also to hold it at the proper approx 2 degree down angle. Because of that I couldn't raise or lower the lift. But that's all history now. Good luck with your future plans.

[2bking]

I had blocks under the front and back of the engine to keep it stable plus also to hold it at the proper approx 2 degree down angle.
To get the old IRS pinion angle as close to zero as possible, my engine ended up almost level which made the side pipes angle up resulting in having to enlarge the side pipe mounting holes. Perhaps the 2015 IRS center section is mounted with a 2* tilt to help fix this problem.

[edwardb]

To get the old IRS pinion angle as close to zero as possible, my engine ended up almost level which made the side pipes angle up resulting in having to enlarge the side pipe mounting holes. Perhaps the 2015 IRS center section is mounted with a 2* tilt to help fix this problem.

Interesting. I just set it at that angle because that's about where they were on my last builds, and as I understand pretty typical. But you made me curious so I did a couple quick measurements. Looks like the center section is pointing down 1.1 - 1.2 - 1.3 degrees relative to the frame rails. In that range. Nothing I've done so far would prevent me having the engine anywhere in the 2 degrees to zero range. In fact less than two would be good. The oil pan was just slightly below the frame rails where I had it set, even with the Whitby spacers. Reducing the angle would eliminate that.

[edwardb]

It’s been a while since I’ve posted any updates. I’ve been working but pretty routine stuff and not too photogenic. But I’ve now completed most of the panel fitting, drilling and mockup. Thought I’d go ahead and post. This is all about to come back apart and I’ll be taking most of the raw pieces out for powder coat. Most of the panels will be the same silver/grey as the Anniversary chassis and a few white to match the ones already provided by Factory Five. I’ve changed and/or modified a few, so will get them done to match. I’ve got a few panels permanently mounted, but most are just cleco’d for now.

For the most part, I followed the recommended guidelines of two inch spacing for panel to panel, and three inch spacing for panel to chassis. When over wider chassis members, I did stagger them so they look a little closer. Having some of the panels already powder coated meant taking special care with them to not scratch, mark, etc. I just used a bunch of blue masking tape when laying out holes, drilling, etc. Reinforces the practice to drill and fit before powder coat whenever possible. Few other hints for first time builders: Take the time to lay out the holes straight, evenly spaced, etc. Lots of them are hidden when you’re done. But a lot of them aren’t, and it really makes a difference IMO in the quality look of the final product. Also take the time to think ahead of where you’re going to fit the tool to pull the rivet. Most are wide open. But check before you drill. Don’t put holes where you can’t get a tool on them. Also think about which side you’re going to pull the rivet from. I strongly prefer that any exposed rivet, even underside, in the wheel wells, etc. the head is showing not the crumpled business side. For sure this is the case in the obvious areas like the engine compartment. But in my overly obsessive opinion, I try to do the same everywhere. Just plain looks better and more professional. Finally, while the panels are perfectly cut and mostly fit really well, take your time to get them just right. A bend may need to be adjusted slightly, you may need to trim slightly to clear a weld bead, etc. If it doesn’t seem like it fits though, check the manual and check your work. I didn’t have to do any significant rework to any piece.

Here are some pics and details. Like I said before, mostly pretty routine stuff. This is the trunk compartment and the Russ Thompson dropped floor. I am leaving in the FF cross braces. Many guys move them below the dropped floor, which is fine. But I don’t weld plus the area will meet my needs with the braces there. Also note I permanently mounted the tank access panels. Probably many won’t agree with this. But I haven’t had to use one of those yet. Plus I played around a little getting the pump assembly out through the access hole. Not easy! It’s hard enough just getting it out of the tank itself. So I just mounted them and will carpet over. With a lift and a floor jack, I can drop the tank in minutes if necessary. For me that was the easier solution. Hopefully I don’t live to regret that decision, but it’s done. I'm also going to quickly make up some fill pieces for the upper side trunk walls. Not necessary, but makes the carpet work much easier and looks good even though not very visible.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001212016/IMG_3789_zpsoc9suh78.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001212016/IMG_3789_zpsoc9suh78.jpg.html)

Rear cockpit wall. Nothing too exciting here. I did find the corner tunnel pieces fit better this time than my last Mk4. Maybe something changed, or maybe I just did it right this time. Installing them with the overlaps exactly as in the build manual makes a big difference. Also, just a reminder, install all the trunk panels before installing the rear cockpit wall. Otherwise you’re not going to have too much fun with the rivets along the back edge of the trunk floor and sides.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001212016/IMG_3793_zpscby2rz8p.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001212016/IMG_3793_zpscby2rz8p.jpg.html)

Driver’s side footbox. Again, nothing too exciting. I’m going to do a removable trans tunnel cover. Lots of discussion about whether this is really necessary, and I’ve never done one before or found it necessary. But I’m planning to cover it with something other than carpet. So it just makes sense to go ahead and make it removable. As a result, I drilled for rivets along the top edge. They’ll be flush mounts so the cover can slide past them.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001212016/IMG_3791_zpsxngiv0h0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001212016/IMG_3791_zpsxngiv0h0.jpg.html)

Passenger side footbox from the engine compartment. These are the Factory Five provided white panels. All fit well.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001212016/IMG_3795_zpssregkojq.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001212016/IMG_3795_zpssregkojq.jpg.html)

Driver’s side footbox from the engine compartment. Several things here. The inside wall, inside top and cover, and small fill piece are 2bking’s designed Coyote modded panels and supplied to me by another very generous forum member. I mentioned these before. I was able to get them to fit quite nicely. The firewall is also his layout, which I fabbed out of .090 inch aluminum. The front panel is also a piece I made. Factory Five powder coated the Mustang footbox panel instead of the Wilwood footbox panel, which a couple other Anniversary kit buyers also found. Upon further review, I found that if I made a couple minor tweaks to the front panel, the other modded panels fit a little better. That was all the excuse I needed. So I made a new one, and without the clutch or wire harness holes, and also shrunk down the steering column hole since I have the bearing mounted on the inside. Looks nice and clean. A lot of messing around for something that is basically unseen once the build is done. But I like it. I’ll need to punch a couple holes for the front harness and brake lines when the time comes and I determine the exact locations.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001212016/IMG_3794_zpsteryfgch.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001212016/IMG_3794_zpsteryfgch.jpg.html)

Driver’s side footbox from the outside. The outside side and top are set to go, but I won’t mount them permanently until everything else is done. Basically right before the body is finally installed.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001212016/IMG_3796_zpsd0ygyjep.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001212016/IMG_3796_zpsd0ygyjep.jpg.html)

One more tip. If you don’t own this tool from Harbor Freight, I would suggest getting one. Best $15 dollars you’ll spend. Works really great to adjust panels and bends as needed. Their item #98728.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001212016/IMG_3797_zpsclt4srla.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001212016/IMG_3797_zpsclt4srla.jpg.html)

Once I get all the parts to the coater, I’m going to start electrical, fuel lines, and brake lines. First up I think will be the instrument panel. So I’ll get that covered, the gauges installed, and start wiring. Then on from there.

[David Hodgkins]

Man I wish I was with you guys doing a 20th anni car. You're doing a great job so far! You have me thinking about doing a Coyote build myself! Not sure about fitment though. I guess I'll have to find someone local doing one to see about footbox fit.

:)

[Jazzman]

I guess I'll have to find someone local doing one to see about footbox fit.:)

David, My guest room is always open to you! I'm still a ways away from having seats installed so you could really check footbox fit, but I'll get there soon enough. I'm not exactly local, but not too bad a drive either.

[edwardb]

You have me thinking about doing a Coyote build myself! Not sure about fitment though. I guess I'll have to find someone local doing one to see about footbox fit.

With these modded panels, the DS footbox space and pedal spacing is exactly the same as my SBF Mk4 with standard FF panels, which for me is very comfortable. I didn't finally decide to do the Coyote until I was convinced about that. I've seen a picture of a very recent Coyote kit delivery from Factory Five, and it looks like they've gone to something very similar. Much improved over their previous mod motor panels. Also looks like they've added a small bump out on the LH side of the DS footbox. There's not much more to be gained there on a Mk4, but looks like they took advantage of the remaining available space. Something for you to confirm and see for yourself.

[edwardb]

All my sheet metal plus other parts are at the powder coater now. Should be a week or so then lots to do. In the meantime, plenty of other things to do including work on the e-brake. I’ve used the Mustang handle in the stock FF location for my previous builds. I’m OK with the location, and the Mustang handles worked OK. But this kit included the newer FF in-house design e-brake handle. After looking it over and assembling it, I’m fine with the design except a couple things: I’m not a fan of the plastic bearings on the main handle pivot. Just doesn’t strike me as terribly stable or long-lasting. Easy fix though. The same bronze bushings used for the hood, doors, trunk, etc. are the right size just a little too thick. I had some spares around, so it was easy to grind down a couple so they could seat in the handle pivot. Much better. My other concern was the little pawl piece just floats between the two main halves. A couple of small washers on each side keeps it aligned much better. I also chose to use a 10-32 bolt to hold it instead of the supplied drive pin. Just personal preference. With these changes I moved to the installation.

I mentioned in a previous update that I wasn’t real excited about routing the e-brake cables under the 4-inch chassis tube. I know hundreds (thousands?) have been built this way, but I’ve managed to avoid it on my other builds and really preferred to again. First is the matter of the cables wrapping under the tubes, which to me looks pretty cheesy plus won’t pass technical inspection in some states. Not a problem for Michigan, but still… The other perhaps more serious concern for me is the cables take a pretty sharp angle out of the rear cable mounts to make the trip around the tube. Probably they would be fine, but I was interested in alternatives.

Fellow forum member carlewms was nice enough to post his solution earlier in this build thread. I had seen that before in his build thread, and it was first on my list to try. Unfortunately, it won’t work on this setup. The separate Wilwood e-brake calipers used on the Anniversary Roadsters requires very little cable movement. Actually just going from slack to tight actuates the e-brake enough to lock the disks down hard. With the stock pull location the movement required where the cables connect is just under .75 inches, or 5 clicks on the handle. I mocked up the modified extended location, allowing the cables to be routed above the 4 inch chassis tube, and it was 2 maybe 3 clicks at the most to actuate the brakes. Just not what I wanted.

After staring at the chassis and e-brake for a while (I do that…) I realized the Lokar cable clevis carlewms used could be the beginnings of a solution for the routing plus provide the needed adjustability. If I wanted to use the same cables, the fixed ends would be too long if the routing were changed. Fortunately they’re sold separately. Lokar S-8078. My next brainstorm was to use a pulley right above the 4 inch tube to pull the cables down as far as possible, providing the best routing to the handle as well as up to the rear cable mounts. Digging through McMaster's website I found a suitable candidate, their #3434T24. Both parts arrived today, and I think it’s going to work out well.

My first idea was to add the Lokar cable clevis behind the FF provided rod ends where the cables attach to the e-brake handle. But then I realized with a little modification, the Lokar cable clevis could be used by itself. Simple and neat. This is the stock Lokar part. I think it’s used with most/all of their e-brake handle assemblies;

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3807_zpsc7xm5cse.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3807_zpsc7xm5cse.jpg.html)

After some careful layout, trimmed it down and drilled some new holes. Now looks like this:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3808_zpsiaxoly24.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3808_zpsiaxoly24.jpg.html)

With the handle installed using the modified Lokar cable clevis, located the pulley and routed the cables. With the rear mounting bolt pointed up as shown, the cable clevis slides over it just fine. Also note I put the front bracket under the chassis mount. Gave a little more clearance at the back.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3813_zpsgrquqogr.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3813_zpsgrquqogr.jpg.html)

Viewed from the other side (PS cockpit) showing the new pretty direct routing. I used a carriage bolt to hold the pulley. The head of the bolt will get covered with the cockpit sheet metal. But the bolt will be captured and kept from turning with the square hole it's in.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3811_zpsihxqydor.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3811_zpsihxqydor.jpg.html)

This is with the e-brake actuated, and the cables pulled tight. The disk rotors are locked solid. I think it's a go. The pulley I found is actually a rope pulley for 1/4 inch rope. The two cables don’t fit into it perfectly, but it was the best I could find and seems to work OK. I purposely mounted the pulley close enough to the chassis tube so the cables are captured. It’s a steel pulley with ball bearings, rated at 290 lbs work load. I think it’s more than up to the task, and was only $7. Gotta love McMaster.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3815_zpsyiufid0v.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3815_zpsyiufid0v.jpg.html)

I’m going to take everything back out now that I’m satisfied with how it’s working and paint the raw steel parts. It will go back in after the sheet metal is installed. Last week I also played around and made an aluminum dust cover to go around the e-brake opening in the transmission tunnel. It’s nothing fancy and certainly not an air or water tight seal. But generally covers the opening which just seems a lot more open than before without the much bigger Mustang piece hanging there. It’s in my batch of parts at the powder coater, so can’t show it now.

I’ve got supplies on the way to start putting covering on the dash. Should be here next week. In the meantime, I’ve starting working on the wiring. Spent some hours yesterday changing one of the Coyote harnesses. Specifically moving the starter and cooling fan wires.

[carlewms]

Very nice solution ...

I like mucho ...

Carl

[edwardb]

Very nice solution ...

I like mucho ...

Carl

Gracias. Does that mean this is now a bilingual thread? :p Thanks for your contribution. Got the thinking process going.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Nicely done Paul! Although I know you would have addressed it if you observed it being an issue---no problem with the cables wanting to bind or walk over one another sharing the grove in the pulley? Seems it would be easy enough to simply add another pulley and have them side by side if it proves to be. Thanks! I'll be filing this one away for later use :)

Jeff

[David Hodgkins]

Nicely done Paul! Although I know you would have addressed it if you observed it being an issue---no problem with the cables wanting to bind or walk over one another sharing the grove in the pulley? Seems it would be easy enough to simply add another pulley and have them side by side if it proves to be. Thanks! I'll be filing this one away for later use :)

Jeff

Yeah, I'm filing this one away too for future use. I wish there was a way to retrofit this solution to my recently finished roadster. I'm going to have to give that some thought. The cable routing is vastly improved over the stock setup.

:)

PS I stare at the build too, working out stuff in my mind. It's fun figuring out new ways to put these together!

[2FAST4U]

Edwardb

For future reference
http://www.mcmaster.com/#round-belt-pulleys/=10vp490

The existing pulley you have may not last with the high tension encountered when the brake is activated

[edwardb]

Edwardb

For future reference
http://www.mcmaster.com/#round-belt-pulleys/=10vp490

The existing pulley you have may not last with the high tension encountered when the brake is activated

I'm not sure why you think that. The pulley I selected is all steel with a steel hub and ball bearings. It's a robust piece rated at 290 lbs working weight. I don't have a way to measure, but there's no way the tension of the cables deflecting across the pulley is approaching that weight. The plastic and brass pulleys you linked to don't show working weight, but don't appear to be any better than what I chose. Actually probably not as strong.

[edwardb]

Nicely done Paul! Although I know you would have addressed it if you observed it being an issue---no problem with the cables wanting to bind or walk over one another sharing the grove in the pulley? Seems it would be easy enough to simply add another pulley and have them side by side if it proves to be. Thanks! I'll be filing this one away for later use :)

Jeff

Thanks Jeff. These separate e-brake calipers actually require almost no cable movement. Basically just going from slack to tensioned locks up the disks. So taking both cables through the single pulley seems to be working fine. But I like your suggestion a lot. Stacking two pulleys next to each other would be even better. I'll do a quick sanity check, but I think there's plenty of room in that area. I just may have to throw another pulley on my next McMaster order.

[Paul Mischenko]

Hey Edward, I'm pleased that I'm always several steps behind you in this build, your suggestions are always very helpful, one being to pre-install and drill all the panels before sending them to get powder coated. Like you I'm powder coating all the remaining panels in the car gray to match the frame. I wanted to check if you managed to find any gray rivets that were a close match to the frame color. The gray ones I ordered from McMaster where too light. Otherwise I was just going to send some plain ones to get powder coated as well, that way I'll have a perfect match. Cheers

[edwardb]

Hey Edward, I'm pleased that I'm always several steps behind you in this build, your suggestions are always very helpful, one being to pre-install and drill all the panels before sending them to get powder coated. Like you I'm powder coating all the remaining panels in the car gray to match the frame. I wanted to check if you managed to find any gray rivets that were a close match to the frame color. The gray ones I ordered from McMaster where too light. Otherwise I was just going to send some plain ones to get powder coated as well, that way I'll have a perfect match. Cheers

Initially I was going to just use the plain raw aluminum rivets. But upon further review agree having them the same color as the panels would be much better. I'm going to line some up in a block of wood and hit them with the same Rust-Oleum High Performance Wheel Paint, color 248930 GRAPHITE, mentioned earlier in my build thread. I'm using a pneumatic puller, and I found if I keep a real light touch like on the McMaster white ones I've used already, there is little/no damage to the painted rivets. Easy enough to touch up after the fact if necessary though.

My powder coat parts are supposed to be done sometime this week. Most are the matching grey color. But I have a few custom panels that will be white to match the FF supplied white panels. With the info provided by FF, I was able to get the same exact Prismatic Powders white.

[edwardb]

While waiting for powder coating to be finished on all my sheet metal and related, decided to tackle the instrument panel. As described in previous updates, I did a slightly modified competition layout using a blank FF panel and fabricated a glove box. I decided early on to give leather covering a try. I picked up a full hide on eBay. It’s way more than I needed, but found a source that was reasonable and figured having extra just in case wasn’t a bad thing. I’m also planning to do the transmission tunnel cover, but that will be sometime later. For my last build, I wanted to avoid the puffy look, so did two layers of vinyl and no padding. It turned out nice, but had a bit less “give” than I expected. So this time around, I decided to give thin padding a try. I bought some 1/8" thick Volara Sculpting Foam from YourAutoTrim.com. I did some testing, and was satisfied. Nice cushion but not puffy.

This is the instrument panel with the foam applied. I used DAP Weldwood Landau Top & Trim HHR (High Heat Resistant) Contact Cement also from YourAutoTrim.com. This is the stuff I’ve used before and it’s outstanding. It’s a professional product that usually is sprayed. But I’ve found it works OK if brushed or rolled. Probably not the most efficient application method, but the smallest you can buy is one gallon, so no problem with running out. If you take something to a professional upholstery or auto trim shop, guarantee this is the stuff they’ll be using.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3816_zpsfzr5r6yw.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3816_zpsfzr5r6yw.jpg.html)

Some hours later (!), had the leather applied and everything installed. Having done a couple panels in vinyl and now leather, it’s a bit different. It goes from flat to a little wavy when the contact cement is applied. Maybe wouldn’t be as pronounced if the cement were sprayed. But with care it goes down and rolls out nice and flat. It also eats blades. I went through a stack of X-Acto blades. I pulled the leather through to the back with pie cuts on all but a couple openings where there isn't room and there's a sufficient flange or finish washer. The holes were cut taking this into account. These pictures don’t really do the leather justice. The natural grain is pretty cool. I still have work to do on the glovebox. I’m planning to line the interior with leather (have plenty) and then need to cover and hang the door. The grab handle is just bolted through the dash at this point. Once the dash is installed in the chassis, I’ll add braces down to the 2x2 dash tube as I’ve done before.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3818_zpstza6xrwf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3818_zpstza6xrwf.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3821_zpsp9ph8aaa.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3821_zpsp9ph8aaa.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3820_zpslzs5ud04.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3820_zpslzs5ud04.jpg.html)

Just a little more work to do back here.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3823_zpsil15qomd.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3823_zpsil15qomd.jpg.html)

Quick follow-up to a previous update. I posted my e-brake cable routing going through pulleys instead of under the 4 inch chassis tube. Jeff Kleiner made an excellent observation that perhaps a second pulley with a cable through each might work well. After I got past the “Why didn’t I think of that…” moment, decided to give it a try. It worked OK before, but even better now. I checked as best I could with the transmission frame and mount in place, pictures I have of my other TKO installed, and all indications are I should have enough room. I’ve got the e-brake handle assembly painted and the cable routing really finalized now. It will need to come out one more time to install the aluminum panel and insulation.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3825_zps7pm7vvuf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3825_zps7pm7vvuf.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3827_zpsdxk6qpap.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3827_zpsdxk6qpap.jpg.html)

[Carlos C]

Excellent work on the dash! Where did you get the glove box?

Carlos

[Jeff Kleiner]

Dash looks fantastic! It's like jewelry :) I think you've hit the sweet spot for "just enough but not too much" padding!

Jeff

[edwardb]

Excellent work on the dash! Where did you get the glove box? Carlos

I fabricated it myself. Described previously in the build thread starting here: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=219268&viewfull=1#post219268

[David Hodgkins]

Gorgeous dash! Truly amazing. I remember trying to do a custom padded dash on my first build and absolutely RUINED the dash! I'd like to try your method on a future dash...

The ebrake is another killer mod! Now it's even better with thee two pullies instead of one. FFR should take a look at your solution. TOTALLY cleans up the "least optimal" piece of the whole build! Very, very nicely done!

:)

[The Stig]

I have to say that your ability to execute such well planned and clean work is very impressive. You've added some very professional touches that make perfect sense.

I can't wait to see how your car finishes out.

Congrats! Great build!

Mike

[Carlos C]

I fabricated it myself. Described previously in the build thread starting here: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=219268&viewfull=1#post219268

Oops, I can't believe I forgot that you also built that work of art. My bad.

Carlos

[edwardb]

Today I finally finished the instrument panel. Since the last update the main work was finishing the inside of the glove box, fabricating and covering the door, and installing the hinges and latch. I’m planning to put leather on the trans cover, but later in the build after it’s fitted, shifter location determined, etc. So I’m out of the leather applying business for now. Good. It’s pretty stressful trying to get everything just right because it’s such a prominent part of the final product. But I'm pleased with how everything turned out. I would mostly do everything the same if I did it again.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3838_zpsmhd0ccve.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3838_zpsmhd0ccve.jpg.html)

I lined the interior of the glovebox with leather. Why not. I have plenty. I didn’t trust myself to hit the exact spots with the contact cement, so used clear silicone to glue it in. Same stuff I’m using for sheet metal. Should hold fine, but even though I rolled it like crazy, still doesn’t come out quite as flat as using contact cement. It’s OK for where it is. The doors I made from two pieces of aluminum. I used a .090 inch thick piece for the inside, and a .040 inch thick piece with the same 1/8 inch sculpting foam as the rest of the dash for the outside. I made them basically zero clearance to the opening, taking into account the thickness of the leather. Made getting the hinge alignment pretty critical, but turned out OK. Just a lot of fiddling getting the exact spots. I captured the screws for the door side of the hinges between the two door halves. The final product is a little heavy and in hindsight .040 inch thick material for both halves would have been fine. But it’s not noticeable when opening and closing.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3865_zpseciulhn2.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3865_zpseciulhn2.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3855_zpsfkpc6enm.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3855_zpsfkpc6enm.jpg.html)

Those hinges are the same ones Alex’s Custom Roadster uses for his glovebox. They’re stock items at Lowes. Just need to pop out the spring closer that comes in them. I mentioned before that I was going to try some different hinges that take up less space on the interior. I tried some suggested ones from McMaster, but the geometry just didn’t work because I have to have the grab handle on the dash for my wife. The McMaster hinges ran the door into the grab handle at about 45 degrees open. These hinges allow it to open to nearly horizontal, and it settles nicely on the grab bar.

The latch isn’t very authentic (but then neither is the glovebox…) but it’s a piece another build thread mentioned and I found on eBay. It’s a VW latch, part number 111 857 131. It makes a really clean installation. Close the door and it latches closed. Push the button and pull the little handle to open. Also comes with keys and is lockable. Took a while to get the right location and size for the catch inside, but works great.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3847_zpstdljgw2n.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3847_zpstdljgw2n.jpg.html)

Final shot of the completed dash.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3863_zpsgutwqoct.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3863_zpsgutwqoct.jpg.html)

I’m done with this for now. I’ll start doing the wiring when I start that on the chassis. Still waiting for my powder coat panels. I think I’ll get the seat heaters installed into the seats, and get that off the list.

[carlewms]

The dash looks fantastic ... the glove box is a part I struggled with and will be changed when I do a mod to the dash in the future. I am going to keep your thread to make sure I follow it ...

Thanks for sharing.

[Paul Mischenko]

Pretty sweet Edward. Congrats. I saw you also used larger supports under the dash, did you find in your previous builds the dash would rattle or shake when hitting a bump?

[edwardb]

Thanks all.


Pretty sweet Edward. Congrats. I saw you also used larger supports under the dash, did you find in your previous builds the dash would rattle or shake when hitting a bump?

I've done all three of my builds exactly the same, with hidden mounts on the back at the top and three braces along the bottom. They don't rattle or shake, and I doubt very much whether other methods if reasonably secure (screws through the front, Velcro, etc.) would would rattle or shake either. These are just my personal preferences.

[edwardb]

Initially I wasn’t going to add this to my build thread because it's pretty routine. But after completing, decided there were a few things worth mentioning. I’ve put heated seats in all of my builds, and we like them very much. I’ve chosen to not install space heaters, and these provide all we need. If a top were ever in our plans, I would have a different opinion. But for us, this has worked well. I’ve used the same WarmSeats WSH heaters from CobraHeat in all cases. Some choose the waterproof version. Either seem fine. The heaters come with pads that need to be installed into the seats plus the wiring harness and switches with indicator lights. Very nice quality product.

Installation of the pads requires some disassembly. Here I had a pleasant surprise. For the other seats I’ve done, this meant removing and reinstalling a bunch of hog rings. Not hard, but a little bit of a pain getting everything stretched back into place and putting the hog rings back in. What I found on these seats is the hog rings have been almost completely replaced with sewn on plastic channels that are hooked over the seat frame. There are still a few hog rings, but none of them need to be removed. Talk about easier. Literally minutes instead of a few hours. I don’t know if this is a general change by the company making these, or maybe only for this leather version. But I'll take it.

The seat cushion has the covering wrapped around to the bottom and glued. Nothing changed there. In order to install the bottom pad, it’s necessary to peel the covering off the cushion and glue back into place. Here I would recommend that guys check their seats even if not installing seat heaters. I don’t know what kind of adhesive was used, but it's not very effective. Kind of gummy and not sticking well. For my two seats, one was about 75% unattached, and the other almost completely unattached. The Velcro at the bottom back was also loose in both cases. Before taking anything apart, mark around the perimeter of the covering with a felt marker, and use this to replace the covering to the same spot. Contact cement works great. I used the same DAP Welwood Landau I used on the instrument panel.

Here's the bottom seat cushion after disassembly, heater pad installed, and glued back together. I cut a slit for the power wire and glued closed.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_3869_zpswhh8es8e.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_3869_zpswhh8es8e.jpg.html)

These are a couple close-ups of the plastic channel that’s hooked to the seat frame. Pop the front one off and the bottom cushion is loose from the seat assembly. Pop the rest loose and the seat back covering is loose enough you can reach in through the bottom and roll the heater pad into place. The hog rings showing here don't need to be removed.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_3879_zpsrddwnba5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_3879_zpsrddwnba5.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_3880_zpsldirnh8q.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_3880_zpsldirnh8q.jpg.html)

The other thing I've done on each of my builds is to put 1/4 x 3/4 inch aluminum spacers on the bottom of the seat frame, seen already in a couple of the pics. This does three things. First raises the seat just slightly, which I like. Second allows the seat to rest a little better on the frame and not on the surrounding upholstery which in some cases is lower than the frame. Especially at the front on these particular seats. Third, and maybe most importantly it provides a channel for the seat heater wires. In this case, I’m bringing the back wire along one side, and also providing an opening for the wire harness bringing the switched power to the seats. It’s possible to route all the wires without the spacers, and most do, but this works well for me. There won't be any pinched or worn wires.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_3878_zps3bmtdy79.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_3878_zps3bmtdy79.jpg.html)

Here's the wire routing from the top. Another tip. Put a piece of tape over the Velcro as shown during the build. You'll be raising and lower that bottom cushion a bunch, and it's nice not having to peal the Velcro open every time.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_3872_zpsu6i9u2sl.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_3872_zpsu6i9u2sl.jpg.html)

I hooked the seats up to my 12 volt power supply and took them for a test drive. Both seats checked good. We have burn. They're now done and ready to bolt into the chassis. Last comment. I like the switches up on the dash, as shown in my previous updates. It does take a little rework of the harness, but easy compared to all the other electrical work necessary for the build. Since I’m not using a space heater, I’ll use the heater circuit from the RF fuse box for the seats. The 20 amp circuit is just right.

[RR20AC]

Thanks Paul. I just ordered them for my build and this info is great. Also ordered a kit for a quilt my wife is making for the cobra. She will have a heated blanket that way.

[edwardb]

Thanks Paul. I just ordered them for my build and this info is great. Also ordered a kit for a quilt my wife is making for the cobra. She will have a heated blanket that way.

You're welcome. Glad the info was helpful. I always install 12V accessory outlets under the dash, and will again, for phone chargers, GPS, etc. Thought they would be useful for a heated blanket, but we don't have one so haven't tried that yet. A blanket or quilt should be nice.

[Duke]

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001212016/IMG_3796_zpsd0ygyjep.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001212016/IMG_3796_zpsd0ygyjep.jpg.html)


Quick question. I see a few people put the the steering pushing on the inside of the driver side pedal box instead of the outside. Any particular reason other than a cleaner look? I see in the manual it shows on the outside. Just curious if it was for power steering or some other reason.

Thanks

[edwardb]

Quick question. I see a few people put the the steering pushing on the inside of the driver side pedal box instead of the outside. Any particular reason other than a cleaner look? I see in the manual it shows on the outside. Just curious if it was for power steering or some other reason.

Thanks

You are correct. The manual shows the lower steering shaft bearing on the outside of the driver's footbox. I tried to put it there but it just didn't fit due to the fixed length of the lower steering column and the location of the adapter on my PS rack. The only solution was to move it inside. That provided just enough additional space. I never measured or compared, but the steering shaft out of the Breeze Unisteer PS rack looked at bit longer than racks I've used before. I assumed that was the reason, but never took it any further than that.

As a side benefit, it does look a little cleaner on the inside. In this case since I made a new DS footbox front panel, and I already knew the bearing would be on the inside, I just cut a circle instead of the outline of the bearing holder. That makes it look even cleaner. But even for a neat freak like me, that wasn't my motivation for moving it. :rolleyes:

It doesn't apply to this build, but sometimes it's necessary to move the bearing inside due to vacuum power brakes. The commonly used vacuum booster interferes with the bearing on the outside, and moving it inside is the common solution. You may have seen this on other builds.

[ThickCobra]

edwardb,
As you mentioned tackling the electrical next, I thought my posing this question may be helpful to others. I'm not certain you would address this as I didnt see it discussed in your previous build. It pertains to the Russ Thomson self canceling directionals mod. I saw in your last build that you used his mod and I plan on using in my current anniversary build. But, as mentioned, I didnt find where you discussed the wiring. I believe he has been selling this unit for some time now, but I'm wondering whether the use of additional diodes, relays and junction boxes, per his electrical schematic are necessary. The complete kit is equipped with a turn signal toggle, a high/low beam toggle and the Ron Francis wiring contains a flasher and relays, etc. So...and this is where I'm automotive electrically challenged...am I not merely swapping one switch for another? Therefore, can I just connect his 5 wires directly to the Ron Francis labeled wiring for those respective features?

[edwardb]

edwardb,
As you mentioned tackling the electrical next, I thought my posing this question may be helpful to others. I'm not certain you would address this as I didnt see it discussed in your previous build. It pertains to the Russ Thomson self canceling directionals mod. I saw in your last build that you used his mod and I plan on using in my current anniversary build. But, as mentioned, I didnt find where you discussed the wiring. I believe he has been selling this unit for some time now, but I'm wondering whether the use of additional diodes, relays and junction boxes, per his electrical schematic are necessary. The complete kit is equipped with a turn signal toggle, a high/low beam toggle and the Ron Francis wiring contains a flasher and relays, etc. So...and this is where I'm automotive electrically challenged...am I not merely swapping one switch for another? Therefore, can I just connect his 5 wires directly to the Ron Francis labeled wiring for those respective features?

Yes, I'll be starting the wiring very soon, and will post some details I guess. The short answer to your question though is "yes" you can use the Russ Francis turn signal switching as a substitute for the toggle switch shown in the RF schematic, but "no" on the way the RF schematic shows doing the high/low beam switching. The diodes come into play depending on how you want dash indicators to work. Since some of the circuitry between the hazards and turns signals is shared, depending on how you wire the indicator lights, diode(s) may be necessary to prevent backfeeding. They're very simple to add, so don't make decisions about that alone. The pushbutton on the end of the stalk can be whatever you want. Horn, high beams, whatever. It's just a two wire momentary switch. The schematics show a couple of ways to switch high/low beam using this button with a relay. There are also electronic switching options using the button, which is what I'll be doing. This can be a complex subject and there are lots of threads on the subject, mainly on the other forum. Hopefully this helps a little.

[edwardb]

Last Friday I picked up most of my powder coated panels and some other miscellaneous parts like hood hinges, battery box, brackets, etc. Total of 53 parts. Several white panels like the already provided white parts from Factory Five, and the balance in the silver/grey Anniversary color. The white matched perfectly because we used the same Prismatic Powders color as the ones from FF. The other chassis color we used a stock color that appeared to be a near exact match based on several samples and small parts. With larger panels now completed, the new powder coat is just slightly darker than the color from FF. When done, most of that color will be on the bottom, so it will be OK. Certainly not enough different to do over, and too late now anyway because most are mounted on the chassis. BTW, the color difference is much less to the eye than what shows in these pictures. For whatever reason, the lighting or flash makes it look different than in does in person. I'll have one more very small batch of powder coating near the end of the build, and that will be it.

I have all the panels installed with several exceptions. Didn’t finalize the DS footbox two top pieces and outside side piece. I’ll do the inside top a little later. The outside top and side will be nearly the last thing before the body goes on for the final time. I also didn’t finalize the rear cockpit wall center and the upper and lower trunk floors. I left the trunk floors off so I can run fuel and brake lines next with better access. The rear cockpit wall will go on after the trunk floors are in. (You all did get the memo on that, right? Don’t install the rear cockpit wall until the upper trunk floor is in. You will find some of the rivets nearly impossible if you don’t.)

I used clear GE Silicone II from the local Home Depot. I used two caulking gun sized tubes to get as far as pictured here. I tried a tube of grey on one of the darker parts, but it was much too light so just did everything with clear. I did apply it pretty liberally so I had good squeeze-out when assembling the pieces (like any good former woodworker would do…) but it cleans up pretty easily. I find Goo Gone Gel Formula works as good as anything. Plain old isopropyl alcohol works OK too.

There was a question before about rivets to match the silver/grey chassis color since there doesn’t seem to be anything available that matches it. Plain silver rivets really stand out. Some guys powder coated a bunch of them, but I didn’t think of that in advance and probably that’s OK since powder coating isn’t exactly cheap to have done. I ended up taking some apart and using the same Rustoleum wheel color I’ve mentioned before. I’m actually quite surprised how well that turned out. I needed about 150 so drilled a bunch of holes in a couple scrap pieces of wood and sprayed them in a couple passes. I kind of felt like I had officially jumped the shark going to this length for the rivets though. One other comment about painted rivets. I used white rivets from McMaster for all the white panels. I found my pneumatic gun is pretty hard on the paint. I tried putting several different kinds of tape on the tip of the gun, but it didn’t help much and wore out very quickly. I found pulling them manually wasn’t as bad, so most of the white I did that way. Surprisingly, the ones I painted held up to the pneumatic gun quite well, although I did end up pulling some of those manually as well. I have to say I like pulling the trigger on the gun better than squeezing the hand riveter. (Feel sorry for me yet?)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3882_zps1wr8razz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3882_zps1wr8razz.jpg.html)

One other thing I did based on past experience plus an idea from another build thread. I’m going to use Lizard Skin heat and sound insulation a couple steps from now. The DS footbox outside top and side pieces I'll spray loose and have ready for installation later. The rest of the DS footbox is a real pain to mask and spray because of the pedal box, pedals, etc. So I outlined the areas that would get insulation around the pedal box, masked them off, and brushed on 2 coats each of the Lizard Skin sound and heat insulation material before assembly. Now these areas are done, and masking and spraying will be a bit simpler. I saw someone did this same thing but cut pieces of the stick-on material. Good idea.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3884_zpsbh1x4hq3.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3884_zpsbh1x4hq3.jpg.html)

Here’s what it looks like now. My kind of different looking two-tone build:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3889_zps0moskqma.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3889_zps0moskqma.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3905_zpsg9txm0sa.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3905_zpsg9txm0sa.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3891_zpsyjvw26zh.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3891_zpsyjvw26zh.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3893_zpsnnnsiell.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3893_zpsnnnsiell.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3894_zps3978wwty.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3894_zps3978wwty.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3911_zpsy5ow4j3j.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3911_zpsy5ow4j3j.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3897_zpse7was6ym.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3897_zpse7was6ym.jpg.html)

This is a closer view of the filler panel I made for the upper trunk area. Absolutely not necessary, but makes it easier to carpet and looks a little better when done. I didn't powder coat the inner trunk sides. Both sides are buried when done.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3914_zpsjmp9dpgz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3914_zpsjmp9dpgz.jpg.html)

This is a closer view of the now nearly completed 2bking sheet metal modification to better fit the Coyote. Turned out well. The good news is that new kits from Factory Five have a similar configuration. I missed it by that much...

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3919_zps76jsekkn.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_3919_zps76jsekkn.jpg.html)

Next week I'm going to start on fuel and brake lines. I'll be using rigid SS tubing like my last build. I have the Eastwood flaring tool out and warmed up.

[Paul Mischenko]

Edward, really looks great, congrats. I should be receiving my panels back next week. All the panels fit really well for me except for one, Drivers top footbox inside panel. (one with hole cut out in your photo above) Front and side lined up well, but I couldn't get it flush with the firewall. Spoke to Dan at FF and he said most guys pull the firewall into the panel. I'm using the thicker FFmetal firewall, for me this was about 1/2" away from the 3/4" frame that runs long the side of engine bay. Wondering if anyone else had a similar experience? Something else I came across was it seems that FF started shipping a different radiator in summer of 2015. I'm #9 of the 20th kits, received my kit in Aug 2015 and my radiator came with angled inlet and outlet. Edward yours looks like it has straight outlet from the photos above. I ordered my breeze radiator shroud a while ago. When I received it, it didn't line up 100%, thought it was just the panel so I used some persuasion to get it to fit, wasn't 100% as I had to pull the top and bottom out a bit, but it worked. I see now that Breeze has a new radiator shroud 32204 for the radiator I was shipped, this one has the fan hole already cut. Mine is already at the PC'er but I'm going to get this new one as I assume it fits better.

[edwardb]

Edward, really looks great, congrats. I should be receiving my panels back next week. All the panels fit really well for me except for one, Drivers top footbox inside panel. (one with hole cut out in your photo above) Front and side lined up well, but I couldn't get it flush with the firewall. Spoke to Dan at FF and he said most guys pull the firewall into the panel. I'm using the thicker FFmetal firewall, for me this was about 1/2" away from the 3/4" frame that runs long the side of engine bay. Wondering if anyone else had a similar experience? Something else I came across was it seems that FF started shipping a different radiator in summer of 2015. I'm #9 of the 20th kits, received my kit in Aug 2015 and my radiator came with angled inlet and outlet. Edward yours looks like it has straight outlet from the photos above. I ordered my breeze radiator shroud a while ago. When I received it, it didn't line up 100%, thought it was just the panel so I used some persuasion to get it to fit, wasn't 100% as I had to pull the top and bottom out a bit, but it worked. I see now that Breeze has a new radiator shroud 32204 for the radiator I was shipped, this one has the fan hole already cut. Mine is already at the PC'er but I'm going to get this new one as I assume it fits better.

Thanks! The DS footbox top inside panel in my build and pics isn't the stock FF part. It's one of the new pieces as designed by 2bking to provide additional space for the Coyote. As such, it's narrower and has a different outside edge profile to match the new inside footbox wall. But it's the same exact length as the one provided by FF -- 15-3/8 inches long -- I just checked. That dimension fits perfectly between the footbox front and firewall. A little snug actually. I too have an .090 thick firewall, although it's not the FFMetals one. The 2bking mod requires a smaller cutout in the firewall, so I made this new one using his layout. But it fits on the 2x2 inch dash tube and between the 3/4 inch tubes just like the stock one. I'm not exactly understanding the problem you're describing. Because of the way the firewall is mounted to the 2x2 inch tube and then the little 3/4 inch vertical piece near the steering column, if the length of the cover doesn't fill properly I don't see how it could be "pulled in" as recommended. Is that the 1/2 inch gap your describing? If so, no way. If you're saying the notch in the top of the firewall is 1/2 inch off, that shouldn't be a problem. That area is all enclosed in the footbox. Or if you're saying your firewall doesn't reach the vertical 3/4 inch tube, that's probably also not a problem since it does attach to the top cover at the end. I snapped a quick pic of that area in my build, with the two top pieces now removed. This is looking forward. Help at all?

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_0253_zpsi9mxiwfg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_0253_zpsi9mxiwfg.jpg.html)

I've heard about and seen pictures of the newer radiator from FF. My kit was also delivered (picked up) in August. I guess I may have just missed. I received an Afco Racing radiator, just like I've used before. The angled tube on the lower hose is a good idea. Routing that hose around the front of the chassis tube and tow hook/tie down can be challenging. I don't think the new radiator is from Afco Racing though. Just like the new manual steering rack was no longer from Unisteer. The gas tank, sender, and pickup also appear to be from a different supplier than in the past. FF is clearly using some different sources.

[Paul Mischenko]

5089850899

Thanks Edward, yep my radiator doesn't have any mounting holes cut out either. Really not sure where it's from, not really that polished or finished so not sure what I'm going to do there.
The firewall fits perfectly, I had to trim the notch a little to clear the weld on the 3/4" tube, my issue is I have a gap between that top panel and the firewall if I connect the firewall flush to the 3/4 tube in top corner. Included a couple of photos.
If I don't rivet the firewall in the top corner I can pull it out to close the gap to the top footbox inside panel which I think I will do. I'll then put a spacer so I can fasten it in the top corner, which I think should be fine. Was just wondering if others had the same issue.
Your build is really looking sweet, I see for the floors you went right into the large tube members and not in the flat seat pan, nice idea as you won't see the rivets from below. I unfortunately did 2 lines on the edges of the floor pans, I think I'll add some 3/16 rivets into the tube as you did. I just asked my powder coater to try and do some rivet backs as well so it blends in, he said he could also get me some touch up paint to match the frame color so I could touch up the rivets or any scratches if I need to.
I'm still debating the what insulation to use, I see you've used Lizard skin twice and from looking at your photos has come out really nice.

[edwardb]

Yea I put rivets for the floor into the 4 inch tubes. Some guys don't, but I prefer to. 1/8 inch rivets are fine IMO. You're right, I didn't put any in the floor pan. All around it in the rest of the frame. Then with lots of adhesive on the pan, I set a cinder block in that area after all the rivets are in. Let it sit for a day or so while it cures, and it's not going anywhere. There will be seat bolts plus the front harness bolt also between the floor and pan.

Your firewall fit is strange. First I've seen that. What you described with a spacer should be fine. Having seen their chassis welding jigs, it's just hard for me to understand that kind of variation. Assuming something is welded wrong. I don't think it's the aluminum piece.

I like Lizard Skin a lot. I'll do the cockpit and the trunk. It does the heat and sound thing well, plus seals everything up. It's pretty tough, so maybe even adds a little strength to the joints. Cost is comparable to other options. I would say the time to apply is probably about the same as well. Like most spray jobs, hours to mask, minutes to spray. But it is a bit messy. Last time I kind of got it everywhere. I'm going to do a better job with drop clothes and barriers this time.

[2bking]

All the panels fit really well for me except for one, Drivers top footbox inside panel. (one with hole cut out in your photo above) Front and side lined up well, but I couldn't get it flush with the firewall. Spoke to Dan at FF and he said most guys pull the firewall into the panel.
When I made the Coyote panels, the original foot box top had the 1/2 gap that Paul_M is seeing and the firewall needed to be pulled forward to close the gap. I corrected the mistake so the top panel fits without the gap. I was never sure if my frame was different or the foot box top had an error and cautioned everyone that used the design that the panels were made to fit my frame and there may be differences in fit for other frames.

[edwardb]

When I made the Coyote panels, the original foot box top had the 1/2 gap that Paul_M is seeing and the firewall needed to be pulled forward to close the gap. I corrected the mistake so the top panel fits without the gap. I was never sure if my frame was different or the foot box top had an error and cautioned everyone that used the design that the panels were made to fit my frame and there may be differences in fit for other frames.

Interesting. The part you designed fit my chassis perfectly, as the pictures show. So thanks for that! Based on Paul_M's question, I did quickly measure the FF supplied part, and it seemed the same length as the custom part so just assumed it would fit the same. Never tried actually fitting it or checking the angle. I did use the FF supplied part on my first Mk4 build, and it fit OK. Certainly not 1/2 inch off. But it was a much earlier Mk4, and didn't have the access panel. So seems something changed at some point.

[dougski]

Thanks for the detailed write-up on the panel install. Just out of curiosity, did you do anything with the splash guard and the door jam panels or do you fit and powder coat them later when the body is installed?
Doug

[edwardb]

Thanks for the detailed write-up on the panel install. Just out of curiosity, did you do anything with the splash guard and the door jam panels or do you fit and powder coat them later when the body is installed? Doug

You're welcome. The door jam panels -- and by that I assume you mean the pieces that go along the top of the door sill and match the curve of the body door opening -- are completely buried on both sides when the build is done. So I don't powder coat those. The splash guards I don't powder coat until after they're fitted, and can't do that without the body installed. I haven't had any yet that didn't require some tweaking. For the Anniversary edition, FF included the front splash guards in the group of white powder coated parts. So in my case those are already done. I'll just have to be careful with the powder coating if they require much modification. Also for the splash guards, I add a coat of bedliner on the side facing the tires. The same material as used on the underside of the body.

[edwardb]

Today I completed the fuel line installation. It’s basically done with just a few fittings to tighten when the tank goes in the last time and the engine is installed. First let me make one thing clear. I didn’t use any of the FF supplied fuel lines or fittings. That’s a personal choice. The kit supplied lines and fittings, plus the additional ones called out for the Coyote installation, work fine and could certainly have been used. Plain and simple I wanted rigid stainless steel (SS) like my last build for the fuel and brake lines. That takes you down a specific path for fittings to make it all work, and before you know it, none of the FF supplied parts are used. Again, my choice.

There has been lots of discussion and recommendations for the Coyote fuel system, including pump size, supply and return line sizes, etc. The FF Coyote instructions say to use a 255 LPH pump. The Ford Racing instructions say 155 LPH. Guys have used both. I went ahead with the 255 LPH in tank pump from Breeze, which Mark provides with enlarged outlet and inlet tubes for 06AN fittings using his adapters. I decided to use 3/8 inch tubing for both the supply and return lines. 5/16 inch supply and 1/4 inch return line is included with the kit, and data shows this will supply plenty of fuel for the Coyote. But some regulators, including Aeromotive like mine, recommend 3/8 inch for supply and return. There has been a lot of chatter about fuel pump life, pressure from too small fuel lines, etc. Since I was going to use SS, it wasn’t a hard decision to go ahead and just use the 3/8 for both. No downside once bought and installed. Easy now. Real hard later. Decision done.

The SS tubing is from Inline Tube, a source many have used. I’m lucky because they’re local for me. So I’m able to pick up the 3/8 inch fuel and 3/16 inch brake line material in person and specify the tubes are left straight. No shipping, no coils, no straightening. Nice. I used a 10-12 inch length piece of Aeroquip PTFE Racing Hose on each end of both lines, and there will be another about 20 inches long from the regulator to the Coyote. I used Aeroquip FBM1103 PTFE 06AN fittings for all. I have the ability to put flares on the 3/8 inch tubing with my Eastwood flaring tool. But even with a flare and a tube nut, it still takes an adapter to attach the 06AN fitting. Mark at Breeze sells a very nice 3/8 inch OD Tube to 06AN male compression fitting (his #21608) and those work great. Install onto the end of the bare 3/8 inch SS tube and instant 06AN connection. FYI, they are Ham-Let Stainless Steel 316 Let-Lok compression fittings, considered a very high quality piece and rated for 1000+ pounds. I think they’ll do. I had to look them up because I wanted to be sure about installation. Their instructions say 1 and 1/4 turns, and that’s what I did. They seem rock solid. I've got the same fitting on the fuel tank supply line and the fuel rail inlet on the Coyote. I found a fuel filter that I thought would fit and do what I wanted on Summit. A Trick Flow TFS-23006. It’s a 10 micron filter with a spin-off base and easily handles the required fuel flow.

I found out during my last build that 3/8 inch SS is not particularly easy to bend. I used my little Eastwood combination tubing bender, and it was all I could do to bend the 3/8 inch tubing with its short handles. So I picked up a new Rigid 36097 tubing bender. It’s just for 3/8 inch and nearly double the handle length. Worked very well. Glad I did that. I picked up a 10 foot piece of 3/8 inch copper tubing from Home Depot, and used that to make patterns and when fitted, duplicated in the SS. You only get one chance with SS, and with my limited experience I’m not willing to work without a safety net. Best $8 I spent. I wasn’t sure I could do it, but I was able to make the supply and return lines each in one piece. The challenge wasn’t making them so much as getting them into the chassis when done. But they're in and won't be coming back out. The saving grace was the simple bend and short returns I used going into the engine compartment. OK, enough words. Here are some pics.

This is the Aeromotive regulator mounted at the firewall, and the supply and return lines in the engine compartment. It’s not obvious in this picture, but I had to make a new bracket for the regulator to stand it away from the firewall one inch. The main harness for the Coyote needs to pass behind it.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3938_zpsjg253fnq.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3938_zpsjg253fnq.jpg.html)

The tubing passes in front of the PS footbox and down the chassis 4 inch tubes. The SS clips are also from Inline Tube. They’re made for a flat surface. But bend the tab and they work fine on the curved tube. All the clips are installed with the provided 10-32 SS button head screws into tapped holes.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3929_zpsf51jyrwo.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3929_zpsf51jyrwo.jpg.html)

Rest of the way down the 4 inch tube.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3934_zpsbi789kcl.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3934_zpsbi789kcl.jpg.html)

Then up and over the rear suspension. I’m well away from any moving parts. I unhooked the coilover and pushed the rear suspension to the top limit. The UCA is still several inches away from the tubes.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3945_zpscqjsaz5a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3945_zpscqjsaz5a.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3931_zpseevk7iwx.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3931_zpseevk7iwx.jpg.html)

This is the location of the fuel filter. Directly in line with the supply tube and easily accessible from the wheel well to spin off and service the filter. I had to modify the bracket slightly, but that was easy and then mounted here perfectly. You can see the end of the two 1/4"-20 mounting screws tapped into the frame.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3930_zps9ioqubf7.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3930_zps9ioqubf7.jpg.html)

Trunk side view of the lines, filter, and attachment to the fuel tank.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3942_zps5hxxrkcv.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3942_zps5hxxrkcv.jpg.html)

Next is brake lines. More of them, but will be a comparative ease to form compared to the 3/8 inch tubing. I’ve got the routing all planned. Now just need to do it.

[dougski]

Thanks for the fuel line writeup. I have done something similar with the stainless line but have not put together the sections of Aeroquip racing hose. Are there any special tools or techniques to getting this done? Doug

[edwardb]

Thanks for the fuel line writeup. I have done something similar with the stainless line but have not put together the sections of Aeroquip racing hose. Are there any special tools or techniques to getting this done? Doug

You're welcome. No, nothing special really. Just to be certain, these are the high pressure style hoses with a Teflon liner and the connectors have a little ferrule (or olive as I guess some call them) that goes over the end of the liner and then is captured between the two connector halves. I find these kind of connectors a bit easier to assemble onto hose than the more traditional AN connectors where you put the end on the hose and then screw the rest of the connector in. These particular Aeroquip connectors happen to be steel, so they're a little more durable to work with and don't mark up with normal tools. A bench vise with some type of protection on the jaws is probably mandatory IMO. I don't have any dedicated AN wrenches or holders. I guess my main feedback is that you have to be real careful and precise with cutting the braid, trimming the liner so it's straight and clean allowing the pieces to go together without too much drama. Use some assembly lube on the final step where you insert the end into the liner. I use the Earl's Performance lube. Good luck!

[6t8dart]

I have been using your line routing as reference for mine, you truly set the standard for building. Thank you.

[RRussellTx]

Edwardb - thanks for being so clear on all of your parts! Every time I think I have things figured out - you seem to post ideas that are 10 times better. I actually had fuel line fittings in my 'shopping cart' when you posted your fuel line thread. I emptied my cart and went ahead and picked up the Breeze fittings that you listed and they are VERY nice! High quality and about what I was going to spend for lower quality fittings.

I am just now researching the hose fittings and I noticed that Summit shows the FBM1134 as a 45 degree flare - not compatible with the 37 degree Breeze fitting. Am I missing something?

Update: I found this catalog link for the Aeroquip fittings. The FCM and FBM are the same fitting, the C indicates Consumer packaging and the B designates bulk. Based on page 16 of the catalog, the 1103 is the 37 degree version.

http://aeroquipperformance.com/files/2013-catalog.pdf

[edwardb]

Edwardb - thanks for being so clear on all of your parts! Every time I think I have things figured out - you seem to post ideas that are 10 times better. I actually had fuel line fittings in my 'shopping cart' when you posted your fuel line thread. I emptied my cart and went ahead and picked up the Breeze fittings that you listed and they are VERY nice! High quality and about what I was going to spend for lower quality fittings.

I am just now researching the hose fittings and I noticed that Summit shows the FBM1134 as a 45 degree flare - not compatible with the 37 degree Breeze fitting. Am I missing something?

Update: I found this catalog link for the Aeroquip fittings. The FCM and FBM are the same fitting, the C indicates Consumer packaging and the B designates bulk. Based on page 16 of the catalog, the 1103 is the 37 degree version.

http://aeroquipperformance.com/files/2013-catalog.pdf

Glad my thread was helpful. You'd probably be a little more thankful if I actually posted the right part numbers. :(

FBM1103 is the right part number for all the fittings I used. PTFE Racing Hose, Straight, -6 AN Hose to Female -6 AN, SAE 37 Degree Flare. I corrected the post. You found the right part number, and happy that you checked. I looked at the FBM1134 connector because it does have an SAE 45 degree flare (sort of unusual) and thought it might work with the 45 degree double flared ends of the 3/8 inch SS fuel line and a regular tube nut. The flare was the wrong direction though, so back to Summit they went and I used FBM1103's and the Let-Lok compression fittings with no flares for all the connections. I had both part Aeroquip numbers in my activity spreadsheet, and (of course) picked the wrong one when I wrote the post. Sorry for the confusion.

[edwardb]

This week I completed the stainless steel (SS) brake lines. I did SS lines on my last build, and happy with how they turned out so did them again. As I mentioned in my fuel line update, the SS tubing came from Inline Tube, a local source for me so I was able to pick up the 10 foot sections in straight pieces. I also bought the SS tube nuts and SS flat line clamps from Inline Tube. I have the Eastwood Pro Tube Flaring tool from my last builds. I did my entire last SS build with two bad flares I detected right after I made them. One I didn’t have positioned properly so the fold was all wrong. The second had a tiny crack, so I did another. The rest were perfect the first time every time. This time around, I had quite a challenge getting good flares. Read all the instructions (again), watched lots of videos, did every tip/hint I could find, and still about half had one or more splits. I talked to the guys at Inline Tube. They said no one else had reported any problems but bring my tool and tubing over and they would take a look. They did several flares with my tool in my tubing and (of course) they were perfect. They also did a few more with my tool in material they said was the hardest they have to flare, and they too were perfect. So convinced it was operator error, I did more practicing. Finally, I determined I was using too much force on step 2. Call it adrenalin, too many Wheaties, whatever, I was pushing too hard. I lightened up a bit, and was able to get consistently perfect flares. I don’t know why I didn’t have this same issue the last time around. Clearly I was working a little differently. Proves that practice and having the right touch is pretty important. BTW, steel flares with this tool are not nearly so sensitive. You can mash step 1 and step 2 all the way to the stops and get amazingly perfect flares every single time. I'm also happy to report I did all the brake lines without a single instance of doing the flare before installing the tube nut. That's a record for me. But I'm sure I'm the only one that does that...

I’ll cut to the chase. Once I had everything done and installed, I decided to go ahead a bleed the brakes. First to make sure I really did have good flares and no leaks. And second to make sure the Wilwood stuff all worked properly. As long as it took to get the Wilwood brakes, I didn’t want to take the chance that something needed their attention and I’d be back in the waiting game. I’m happy to report no leaks anywhere, a hard pedal, and brakes seem to be working properly. Whew! Kind of a big milestone in the build.

Now for more details of the installation. This is my first time using a Wilwood pedal box with the MC’s inside the footbox. My last build had the Wilwood box, but with a hydroboost unit and regular double MC on the outside. After looking at a lot of routing schemes, I ended up with the rear brake line down the inside corner of the footbox, and the front brake line out of the top outside the 3/4 inch tube. More details in the pics. I used the provided FF steel lines to make patterns of the more complicated pieces, and then duplicated in the SS tubing when satisfied with the fit. I was careful to mark the exact location of the bender on the pattern as I was making it, and then using those marks the SS pieces came out just right. Like the fuel lines, I was able to use a single piece of tubing from the front to the back. So from the rear MC to the rear tee it’s one piece. No unions. Nothing wrong with unions, just fewer parts, flares, and eliminates possible leak sources.

I’m using the CNC reservoirs, so hooked up the supply lines to the three MC’s. I was able to fit the three lines through the unused clutch cable hole. It was in the perfect location plus eliminated having to drill through that thick (and hard) footbox front. This pic also shows where I brought out the front circuit. It’s on the outside, so will be partially hidden with the body on. Also had to get it below where the front harness cable will be attached.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3974_zpsirmr3paz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3974_zpsirmr3paz.jpg.html)

This is how I routed things inside the footbox. All the hydraulics are there except the pressure line for the clutch. It will get routed behind the 2x2 tube down to the clutch after I install the engine/trans.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3976_zpsikfeb1aa.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3976_zpsikfeb1aa.jpg.html)

Front DS from the MC, and the tee going to the PS. These line clamps are Allstar ALL18320. Padded clamps are fine. I just think these look a little cleaner. Strictly a personal choice.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3982_zps8moc2ds5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3982_zps8moc2ds5.jpg.html)

Front crossover along the top of the X-frame, again with the Allstar clamps and tapped holes.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3984_zpsfrujgv4u.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3984_zpsfrujgv4u.jpg.html)

PS front. Nothing too exciting here.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3971_zpsqu41qcp5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3971_zpsqu41qcp5.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

For the rear circuit, went down inside the corner of the footbox as already stated. I confirmed the Coyote DBW pedal assembly is far away from the line. I’m not sure a more traditional accelerator pedal, cable, etc. would be the same.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3958_zpsjavjryz5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3958_zpsjavjryz5.jpg.html)

Out through the bottom of the footbox. Still need to put some filler in the hole. It had to be big enough to get the tube nut through since I had to pre-flare the line with the flaring tool in my bench vise. The reflection of the camera flash makes it look there's a flat or kink in that bend. There isn't. It's a smooth bend.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3964_zps3cc84ts7.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3964_zps3cc84ts7.jpg.html)

Down the outside of the DS 4 inch chassis tube. These are the Inline Tube line clamps. Same as I used for the fuel line, just a different size. Held with 10-32’s in tapped holes.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3962_zpsxmo66rav.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3962_zpsxmo66rav.jpg.html)

Then up in front of the rear suspension, similar to the fuel lines.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3960_zpskqzg6dok.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3960_zpskqzg6dok.jpg.html)

To the rear tee on the DS. Because of the location of the flex line bracket, there isn’t enough height to the trunk floor to put the “T” directly in the fitting as FF shows in their instructions.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3991_zpszgxolloe.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3991_zpszgxolloe.jpg.html)

Then over to the rear PS. Again, not too exciting. There is a line clamp directly underneath where this picture is taken. Same location as the other side, also not shown. Couldn’t get decent pictures because of all the suspension parts going on under there. Made it interesting to reach up in there to install them.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3980_zpspputuaci.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3980_zpspputuaci.jpg.html)

That’s it for the installation. Looks pretty simple when it’s all done. But it’s a bit of work to get there. For the bleeding, I “bench bled” the MC’s on the car, with temporary lines from the MC’s back to the open top of the reservoirs. Just pumped the pedal until all fluid. Then, with the regular lines back on the MC's, I used the CNC pressure cap to pressure bleed at each caliper. With 4-5 pounds of air into the top of the reservoir, just crack the bleeder and wait for the air to come out and only fluid flowing. No pedal pumping. It’s way too easy. Just watch the level in the reservoir. I went around twice just to make sure all the air was out. The Wilwoods are interesting. All the calipers have a top and bottom bleeder. Make sure to use the top one! For the rears, there are bleeders on each caliper. The instructions say to do the outside one first. I used exactly one 32 oz bottle of Valvolene DOT 3&4 synthetic brake fluid. When done, did lots of pumping and no sign of any leaks anywhere. Held the pedal down hard a couple times for one minute plus, and seems to hold fine and again no leaks. Obviously I’ll continue to keep an eye on it, including especially when it’s go-kart and driving time. But looks good now.

Next step is to get serious with electrical. I already have the rear harness in, but need to finalize it. Then going to get the main power wiring in including the Breeze front battery mount. It’s snowing now (no comments please!) but the weather forecast is showing lots of 40-50-60’s starting in the next day or so, the weeks ahead, and into next month. I think we may be turning the corner! Ready to get back out driving with #7750.

[Paul Mischenko]

Hey Edward, Amazing progress as always and thanks again for the detailed posts, a big help. Was wondering what hoses / fittings you used to connect from the master cylinder to the remote reservoirs, they don’t look like the ones in the kit or that came with the CNC reservoirs, but look great? Also were the tops of your CNC reservoirs perfectly aligned. The middle one on mine seems a little off? I’m running one 3/8” fuel line for my setup. I as well used a 6AN fuel pick up from Mark. Aeromotive suggests I use 1 inline 40 micron filter between tank and mechanical pump, so I’m thinking of removing the 50 mesh filter on the end of the fuel pickup. My logic is I would rather something get caught in the filter which is easy to replace vs restrict the flow on the fuel pick up, which I then need to remove from tank to clean. Did yours have a similar mesh filter on the end and did you keep it on?
Also for anyone else that has interest I bought a book to read up and learn on fuel / brake line connections as frankly I know very little, (Practical Fabrication and Assembly Techniques by Wayne Scraba - $20 bucks on Amazon) I found it interesting and brought me up to speed on different fittings / adapters etc. It did also mention that SS is difficult to work with, especially when trying to do the 45 degree double flares as can be prone to splitting…. Thanks again for taking the time to post, it’s a great help. Cheers

[edwardb]

Hey Edward, Amazing progress as always and thanks again for the detailed posts, a big help. Was wondering what hoses / fittings you used to connect from the master cylinder to the remote reservoirs, they don’t look like the ones in the kit or that came with the CNC reservoirs, but look great? Also were the tops of your CNC reservoirs perfectly aligned. The middle one on mine seems a little off? I’m running one 3/8” fuel line for my setup. I as well used a 6AN fuel pick up from Mark. Aeromotive suggests I use 1 inline 40 micron filter between tank and mechanical pump, so I’m thinking of removing the 50 mesh filter on the end of the fuel pickup. My logic is I would rather something get caught in the filter which is easy to replace vs restrict the flow on the fuel pick up, which I then need to remove from tank to clean. Did yours have a similar mesh filter on the end and did you keep it on?
Also for anyone else that has interest I bought a book to read up and learn on fuel / brake line connections as frankly I know very little, (Practical Fabrication and Assembly Techniques by Wayne Scraba - $20 bucks on Amazon) I found it interesting and brought me up to speed on different fittings / adapters etc. It did also mention that SS is difficult to work with, especially when trying to do the 45 degree double flares as can be prone to splitting…. Thanks again for taking the time to post, it’s a great help. Cheers

OK, lots of questions. No problem. Let me see... No, the fittings on the CNC reservoirs and the hoses are not what came with the kit or from CNC. I started with the sizes of the hose barbs that came on the two brake MC's and the clutch MC. Then matched that to the 1/8 inch NPT threads in the bottom of the CNC reservoirs. The two brake reservoir fittings are Gardner-Westcott J9032. The clutch reservoir is a Gardner-Westcott J9027. I would have liked it to be a right angle like the other two, but didn't find one in the right combination. The matching 3/8 and 1/4 inch ID hose is brake line reservoir specific hose from a local business here in Michigan that also sells on eBay. I've used it before and seems like good stuff. Also like that it's black. I worry about stuff like that. Probably shouldn't... My CNC reservoirs were aligned OK. There have been some reports of them leaking. But I'm on my third set and no issues. Hope it stays that way.

For the fuel filters -- kind of different situations. Mine is EFI. Sounds like yours is carb'd since you mention a mechanical fuel pump. In both cases a filter is highly recommended for the fuel tank pickup or pump. Often called a sock. It's a rough filter, or maybe better yet called a strainer, intended only to keep any big stuff from being picked up. Typically in the 100 micron range. For a pump pickup like mine, it's usually a flat piece, and yes I have one installed. For a pickup only, the ones I've seen are a little round filter on the end of the tube. You should have one of these kinds of filters in all cases. It's typically a low maintenance item. For the actual fuel line, for a carb setup, you should have a filter between the mechanical fuel pump and the carb inlet. Usually 40 micron is recommended. For an EFI setup, it's recommend the filter is between the pump and the engine, and in the 10 micron range. I posted the picture of the one I'm using mounted next to the fuel tank.

As I said in my write-up, the trouble I had with the SS tubing was unusual for me, and not an issue in my last build. I hesitated to even post about it because guys shy away from SS because it is a bit more difficult to use that plain steel. But with the right material (which I had), the right tool (also which I had), and the right technique (something I was a little short on), it's completely manageable. Clearly though there's a difference between someone that does it all the time, like the guys at Inline Tube that seemed they could make good flares in their sleep, and me who has done it twice with a couple years in between. But based on what I learned, I would use it again no problem. And hopefully without the bit of drama like this time.

Hope that helps!

[Paul Mischenko]

Many Thanks Edward, your comments always help! Is the local supplier of the rubber brake hoses "Brake Hoses Unlimited" they look really nice?

[edwardb]

Many Thanks Edward, your comments always help! Is the local supplier of the rubber brake hoses "Brake Hoses Unlimited" they look really nice?

That's the one.

[edwardb]

It’s been a busy week with the build plus other stuff, but still made some good progress. Also a setback unfortunately. More about that later. After completing the fuel and brake lines, the next step was to finally install the rear harness. I did the usual routing down the inside DS top corner of the transmission tunnel and to the upper trunk floor. But then took it off to the side a bit around the added 5 inch box in the lower trunk area. Just made the routing a little neater without getting too tight between the tank and the box. Plus there’s enough length to still have enough wire on the DS corner. Before attaching the rear harness with padded clamps and rivets, I did pull two extra wires through it. One for a trunk light, that I’ll add to the courtesy light circuit along with the cockpit footbox lights. The other is off the brake circuit. I have an idea for a center brake light. We’ll see… I also shortened the fuel sender and fuel pump wires to make it a bit neater back there.

With the rear harness installed, did the final installation on the upper and lower trunk floors, trunk box, and rear cockpit wall. That’s it for panel installation until final assembly with just a few pieces left. Then installed the gas tank for hopefully the last time. I added tie wraps around the sender and pump plugs. I haven’t used an in-tank fuel pump before, and haven’t had any issues with the sender plug. But I’ve heard of several guys having problems with the connectors being loose or intermittent. Not a huge tragedy for the sender, but not good for the fuel pump obviously. I have to agree the locking tab is a bit less than a positive lock. A larger size tie wrap cinched around the connector and holding the tab seems like easy insurance. A short trip to my friends at Ace for a longer bolt on the PS fuel tank strap (common problem…) and I was good to go.

Rear harness and balance of trunk panels installed:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_4000_zpskyxvycex.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_4000_zpskyxvycex.jpg.html)

Now with tank installed. At the top of the pic you can see I put the little blocking plate for the PS tank strap on the outside and secured it with screws versus inside, riveted, and buried under the carpet, insulation, etc. Since I chose to not use the trunk floor access panels, being able to drop the tank relatively easily is important. The PS tank strap won’t swing out of the way unless that blocking plate is removed. So tried to make it a bit easier. Hopefully it will stay right where it is for a long time. Never get tired of seeing that rear suspension. It's a beautiful thing.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_0278_zpsvqyxpqy7.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_0278_zpsvqyxpqy7.jpg.html)

Top side of completed trunk area. As already mentioned, I'm leaving the braces.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_4019_zpssf0gzlym.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_4019_zpssf0gzlym.jpg.html)

Completed cockpit area. For you warm climate guys, that red thing in the background is something we cold climate guys call a “snow blower.” Fortunately haven't had to use it too much this year. Thought I would use this opportunity to educate those who miss out on the real joy of winter. :)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_4024_zpslywonwu0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_4024_zpslywonwu0.jpg.html)

Next I decided to wrap up my dash mounting. In my previous update I showed how I mounted four 90 degree tabs on the back of the instrument panel. Now to give them a matching mounting location on the 3/4 inch dash tube. I located the tabs on the panel to have enough space for a 10-32 nut plate on the dash tube. The dash tube isn’t thick enough to tap threads. A nutsert might work, but finding the location and the proper angle would be quite difficult. So I took some steel nut plates (from McMaster, where else?) and drilled a hole in each end with a countersink. Then attached them to the tabs on the dash with some 10-32 screws, dabbed on some JB Weld, and clamped the dash in the intended location. With the JB Weld cured, removed the screws, removed the dash, added a little more JB Weld around the plates to fill any gaps, then installed two flush rivets into the previously drilled holes. Not going anywhere soon. Four locations look something like this:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_0262_zpsp8czfixf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_0262_zpsp8czfixf.jpg.html)

Then installed the dash with longer 10-32 socket head screws into the four mounting locations. Like this one. They're easy enough to reach with a long ball end Allen wrench. I purposely mounted them in locations with a nearly straight access from the bottom.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_0270_zpswe4cqvnp.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_0270_zpswe4cqvnp.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

The dash mounting turned out really well. With the top mounts, and the three braces along with bottom (small one each side, wider one in the middle over the tunnel), will be rock solid. I achieved my goal of a strong and serviceable dash mounting without screws through the front. I’m not going to kid though. This method is a little tedious and may not be for everyone. Also one of the reasons I’ll never build one of these in the 300 hours (or whatever) FF advertises. The dash will have to come off one more time for wiring, but looks good sitting in the chassis for now:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_4021_zpsqo3mmkcg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_4021_zpsqo3mmkcg.jpg.html)

My next step was to install the Breeze front battery mount box, and get started on power wiring. Got the box mounted temporarily with clecos. Mark’s instructions are awesome. He even included a right angle grease fitting for the LCA since the battery blocks that location. I don’t remember that from the last time I installed one of these.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_4026_zpsmpoqrgf4.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_4026_zpsmpoqrgf4.jpg.html)

But in the process of installing the battery box, I made a somewhat disturbing discovery. I noticed that a small section of weld was missing from the front x-tube. About 3 inches long. You can see it just above the LH corner of the battery box. I can’t believe I didn’t see this before. I’m not going to dwell on it, because it’s being resolved. I sent a picture to FF using the customer service email address, and expected to follow-up with a phone call later in the day. But in less than an hour, Dan at FF called me instead, and we have a plan to fix. I don’t weld, so will have a welder come to my house to TIG weld the missing location. Dan is having some touch-up paint mixed to match the anniversary color. FF is of course picking up the tab for everything. Dan was great and they are really stepping up. He said the welding is checked multiple times, and especially for these Anniversary kits where some additional checking and clean-up was done. So he couldn't imagine how this was missed. Nonetheless, it was. This area is almost completely hidden by the battery once installed. So however the final repair turns out, it will be gone and mostly forgotten. Setbacks happen during every build. Just need to address and move on, which I plan to do. More wiring ahead.

[Oliver27]

I just got my control pack last week. Yikes it felt forever! I'm assuming you received yours too. T
he question I have is where are you going to locate it?

[edwardb]

I just got my control pack last week. Yikes it felt forever! I'm assuming you received yours too. T
he question I have is where are you going to locate it?

Yes, I have the control pack. It was available along with the engine and related parts when I bought the crate motor package last October. I discussed the new 2015 control pack in some detail, and also my plans for how I'm installing it, earlier in this build thread. Starts on page 2 and goes from there. I know this is a long thread (sorry about that) but what you're asking about is all there. Coincidentally, I am working on finalizing all this at this exact moment. Currently wiring the front mounted battery back to the master disconnect and also to the Coyote PDB. Snapped this pic a few minutes ago before I came in for lunch. Doesn't look very pretty. Just roughing stuff in right now before everything goes in convolute.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_0296_zpslyonkilb.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_0296_zpslyonkilb.jpg.html)

[wallace18]

Very nice work!

[Duke]

Hi Edward,

Quick FYI that may help. I just put the motor/trans in together for mock up and found that with my T56 mag trans. I had to take the shifter off and the alternator. With the motor coming down at a steep angle I couldn't clear the steering with the trans on it.

[edwardb]

Hi Edward,

Quick FYI that may help. I just put the motor/trans in together for mock up and found that with my T56 mag trans. I had to take the shifter off and the alternator. With the motor coming down at a steep angle I couldn't clear the steering with the trans on it.

Thanks for the heads up. Actually I did my mock-up with the steering column swung out of the way, and plan to do the same when it goes in for real in the next weeks. The alternator cleared OK then. I'm doing a TKO, a little skinnier than a T56, so I'm expecting it will go in without any issue. My last one did. But I do know the whole transmission is in a slighter different location with a Coyote compared to the SBF from before. Hopefully the shifter will clear OK. If not, easy enough to pop off.

[GoDadGo]

T r u l y a m a z i n g w o r k !

[Duke]

These are the already mentioned clutch “bottom” and clutch “top” switches provided. They have dedicated legs on the harness. According to Ford Racing tech, they are mandatory. The bottom switch is required as a starter interlock. The top switch apparently triggers some reaction by the PCM to the engine when the clutch is started down. I’m not going to question them. I will install but thinking not to use these exact switches. Measuring them, they’re just 2-wire NO and NC contact switches. I’m thinking I can use the typical switches we use on our builds, like the one on the right. The top switch can be mounted in the Wilwood box just like a brake switch, and in fact I already made and installed a bracket like that on the clutch side anyway. Then just need to figure out how to have a similar switch at the bottom of the clutch stroke. Stay tuned for that as well.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3569_zps9qlkzekw.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3569_zps9qlkzekw.jpg.html)


Hi Edward, I'm fabricating the clutch switches at the moment and thought I would pass along what I'm doing. I'm just using brake light switches mounted one on top of the other in similar fashion to how the FFR brake light switch is mounted. Both switches are looking for contact when the clutch is pressed in. Putting these two in front of the clutch solves the problem, when the clutch is pressed in it triggers both circuits to close, similar to a brake light. A simple double long bracket with both of them screwed in will work just fine. It's a lot easier than trying to figure out clutch pedal travel for the grey plunger to trigger :)

http://www.amazon.com/Borg-Warner-S237-Stoplight-Switch/dp/B000E72P66?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

[edwardb]

Hi Edward, I'm fabricating the clutch switches at the moment and thought I would pass along what I'm doing. I'm just using brake light switches mounted one on top of the other in similar fashion to how the FFR brake light switch is mounted. Both switches are looking for contact when the clutch is pressed in. Putting these two in front of the clutch solves the problem, when the clutch is pressed in it triggers both circuits to close, similar to a brake light. A simple double long bracket with both of them screwed in will work just fine. It's a lot easier than trying to figure out clutch pedal travel for the grey plunger to trigger :)

Thanks for the input. There's another forum member (jcjorgensen) also trying to sort out the clutch switch thing. Maybe you've seen the posts. He tried it with the bottom clutch always closed, just to eliminate having to figure out a way to actuate it, and got some strange behavior. As I said in my build thread you quoted, I've already fabricated a piece just like FF supplies for the brake light and installed it on the clutch pedal, with the same kind of brake light switch FF supplies and you linked to. It's installed and working. So top switch done. For the bottom switch, I know it's maybe a pain, but I'm planning to figure out a way to have the switch at the bottom of the clutch stroke. From a safety standpoint, I want the clutch all the way down before the PCM will allow the start. In addition, I think it's possible the designers want to differentiate between the two clutch positions. Of course I don't know that for a fact, but when I asked Ford Racing tech support about whether the speed dial was needed for the new 2015 control pack, they responded no and said hardware and software changes had been made to solve the idle/stall issue of the previous crate control pack. He specifically cited the top and bottom clutch switches as part of that solution. My takeaway is to figure out a way to make them work as designed. I'm nearly positive I won't use the Ford supplied switch for the bottom either. There's just no good way I can see to integrate it into the Wilwood pedal. Right now I'm looking at using a roller lever micro switch, bracketed somehow at the bottom of the clutch pedal throw. I'm a couple steps away in my build from working on it in earnest. I'll be interested to see what you come up with, and specifically how it acts when you get it running and driving.

[edwardb]

Today I finally finished the power wiring. Took longer than I planned, but what’s new about that. I did a front mount Breeze battery box on my last build and was very happy with it. So once I confirmed the Coyote installation would have enough room, did the same for this build. I received the front mount kit from Mark some weeks ago, and had it powder coated with all the rest of the parts. Also for the last build, I spent a lot of time looking at other builds and how the power wiring was done. Came up with my own spin on lots of good ideas, and that’s what I did and it has worked very well. This build is almost a carbon copy. The +12 volt battery wire is routed along the chassis to the master disconnect below dash center. Off the switched side is a large wire back to the starter, and another smaller wire to the RF panel and harness behind the dash. The battery ground is routed to the chassis near the battery. Pretty simple and straightforward. Note the firewall mounted solenoid is not used in this arrangement. With a mini starter the solenoid is not required, and the master disconnect serves as a gathering point for the main power wires. But in this case was the added work of integrating the Coyote Power Distribution Box (PDB) into the power wiring scheme.

I talked about this some earlier in the build thread. The 2015 Coyote controls pack has a much different PDB than the previous version. I determined early on, based on the size and configuration of the PDB, as well as the wiring harness, that it had to go in the engine compartment. Not behind the dash as usually the case for the previous version. With that determined, now how to get power to it. The controls pack comes with a long #4 power cable and a smaller ground that is intended to be taken directly to the battery. I saw no reason to use this if I supplied adequate power from the normal power wiring. I took the power leads from the Coyote PDB directly to the power at the master disconnect. There are four separate ground leads in the Coyote harness. Those Ford guys were pretty serious about getting a good ground! Three will go to chassis ground where the harness ends up. But I chose to home run the one lead back to the battery ground itself, as the instructions showed. Just to eliminate all doubt. I’ll provide more details along with the pictures.

First up is the battery. I chose an Optima group 51 yellow top, just like my last build. This is Optima part number 8071-167. That’s important because of the location of the positive and negative posts. They also sell a reversed version, but that puts the positive post very close the chassis x-frame. I strongly recommend avoiding this. Here you can see the start of the #2 battery cables I installed. The kit comes with #4 cables, which I used on my last build and for the relatively short runs with the front mounted battery, they have been fine. But since I eliminated the separate #4 cable provided with the Coyote controls pack, I chose to go to the larger size to carry both the normal power plus the Coyote PDB. I picked up the #2 cable at West Marine. It’s very nice quality marine grade cable. Not cheap, and probably overkill. But they sell it by the foot so I got the exact amount I needed. Note also here the chassis ground location. The smaller ground lead is from the Coyote PDB mentioned previously. When I mocked up the Coyote in the engine bay, I measured the location of the front crankshaft pulley. These cable locations clear the pulley by about 1-1/2 inches. And for you guys that notice such things, I do have the battery ground installed. But the positive battery lead I just set in place for this picture. While working on the build, I have it disconnected and the cap over the post.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4036_zpse5g2f9dk.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4036_zpse5g2f9dk.jpg.html)

One other thing you don’t see in this picture, and it’s a pretty big deal. The missing weld on the x-frame. Refer to my previous update showing the missing weld. It’s hard to see here because it’s partly behind the battery. But it’s been welded and the powder coat touched up. If you didn’t know it had been repaired, you wouldn’t know it. Even if I pointed it out, you probably wouldn’t see it. That’s huge and a giant weight off my mind. I didn’t take any pictures after the weld was completed, because it hurt just to look at it. There was damage 1-2 inches each side of the weld. But now done and gone. I’ll post about the touch-up paint at the end of this update. Factory Five has stepped up and done what was necessary to get this fixed, so kudos to them.

Back to power wiring. Here I routed the wiring in convolute down the chassis tube with a breakout for the starter wires. I measured the exact location for the two wires while the engine was mocked up, so these should bolt right into place when the engine goes back in. The smaller wire is the blue start signal wire. I put a piece of shrink sleeving around it. This wire is from the Coyote harness because the PCM controls the start process in this setup. This wire originally was at the engine end of the harness. I stripped back the harness enough to get it to the firewall so it could go to the starter along with the starter battery wire. Just cleaner that way.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4043_zpsraqqgbkw.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4043_zpsraqqgbkw.jpg.html)

Then up to the master disconnect and Coyote PDB. Here you can see a branch of the Coyote harness going to the dash area. There it gets connections for the fuel pump, start circuit, DBW, clutch switches, etc. The branch on the LH side along the top of the PS footbox goes to the PCM, engine, fan, etc.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4042_zpst7jdahf0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4042_zpst7jdahf0.jpg.html)

This is a closer view of the finished power wiring. Doesn’t look all that great, but this whole area is behind the engine and below the body cowl. No way to make it very pretty short of covering it all up, but I’m not going to bother with that. The only thing not done here is the 8 gauge wire poking through the hole into the dash area. That’s the main power feed to the RF harness. More work to be done there. That hole also needs to be enlarged because that's also where the rear harness leg needs to go through.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4044_zpsevbwnmz3.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4044_zpsevbwnmz3.jpg.html)

Here is a picture of the power wiring area with a couple of the covers off so you can see the wiring layout I ended up with. The main battery power is the larger #2 cable on the lower post of the disconnect. The starter wire is on the top post going to the left, and the RF harness feed going to the right. So switching on the disconnect makes power available to the starter and RF harness. The smaller leg coming out of the Coyote harness next to the red cap on the regulator is the chassis ground mentioned earlier that goes to the front and the blue starter wire going to the starter. The large lead coming off the hot side of the switch is a #4 cable powering the Coyote PDB. It goes through the Ford supplied 250 amp fuse, and then another short #4 cable going to the front power tap on the PDB. I’m not completely sure why the 250 amp fuse. Nothing in the circuit should draw anywhere near that kind of current. IMO something is going to need to be dead shorted to pop it. But I guess that’s the point. Anyway, our friends at Ford thought it was necessary so I used it. I made a little bracket to hold it in the position shown. There is a second +12V power lead in the Coyote harness through a mating connector. But when you take the harness apart, it’s attached to the main power lead. So I routed it to the fused side as well. You can just see the smaller lead under the PDB.

So obviously with this wiring arrangement the Coyote PDB will always be on as long as the battery is connected. The instructions say this is necessary to store self-learned programming and error codes. A minor side benefit is the harness behind the dash includes an available constant +12V lead. Ford labels it HAAT, or Hot At All Times. Have to love it. I’m going to use that for the clock and also the speedo GPS. Speedhut provides a power wire that supposedly makes the GPS wake up more quickly if current is always applied. But with the PDB always powered, would switching off the master disconnect stop a running engine? My educated guess is probably not. The alternator would likely still keep everything alive. But the engine would not start with the master disconnect off, for a number of reasons. So I’m OK with that. I’m putting fuel pump and EFI switches under the dash, so either of those would kill a running engine if needed. Not to mention the ignition switch.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4045_zpst4fpqbej.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4045_zpst4fpqbej.jpg.html)

[edwardb]

All of the #2 and #4 lugs, battery terminals, and triple wall sleeving used was from DelCity. Great supplier. For my last build, for all these larger connectors I used their Fusion products or solder slugs. However, for DD's and most factory built cables these kinds of connections are typically crimped. But because of the large cable and connectors the crimpers and dies are typically pretty expensive. Certainly too expensive for occasional home use IMO. But I ran across a cheap hydraulic crimper somewhere online (don't remember where...) that had a bunch of positive reviews. So I thought I would give it a try. Model number is YQK70. They're all over the place. I found it for $37 including shipping on eBay. That's just crazy. It's a bit on the cheap side (think Harbor Freight quality) and I can't say it will last a lifetime. But it came with a number of dies, and for the larger stuff (#2, #4 and #8) it does a decent job. The crimps are six-sided and seem very solid. I bought a few extra lugs and practiced/experimented before committing to the final parts. I did pull tests and cut some in half. Solid copper through the section. I went ahead and still used the Fusion (solder) connectors for the battery terminals. But all the rest of the wiring shown here was done with this crimper. Something to check if you're interested.

Right before I took these pics I did a little checking. With the battery leads connected (and all loose wire ends accounted for!) with a test light I could find +12 volts in all the right places. The master disconnect is switching the right stuff. I also checked the aforementioned HAAT wire in the Coyote harness behind the dash. It's alive. So power is getting through the Coyote PDB and harness. Baby steps but I'll take it for now.

I’ll be wrapping up a few more details on the wiring and then start masking and spray my Lizard Skin sound and heat insulation. By then I should have the transmission and will drop in the engine. Still have dash and RF harness wiring to finish. But could first start be too much longer after that?

Last update is the touch-up paint. After some searching, I found a company in Texas that packages touch-up paint for powder coat and include some of the Tiger Drylac colors. I contacted them about the specific Tiger Drylac DB 703 Glimmer, 49/84340 power coat used on the Anniversary frame. They said yes they could provide it. Received it yesterday and the match is perfect. I don't think you could find the repair. I'm impressed (and relieved...). Here's a picture of the spray can with the company name and website. $15 plus shipping. Not bad. That is officially my last mention of the missed weld and repair. It’s done and over with.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/th_IMG_0321_zpsabcjvilr.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0321_zpsabcjvilr.jpg.html)

[jcjorgensen]

Edward,
Your routing is second to none, looks fantastic!!

[edwardb]

Edward,
Your routing is second to none, looks fantastic!!

There are lots of great wiring jobs out there, but I appreciate the compliment. Thanks!

[RR20AC]

Paul, is that all you do is build. You are so organized. I always go to your build site first if I need an answer. Thanks. Looks great. Wish I still had Coyote plans but that went away when Washington State change there license requirements. May need some of that paint. Nice find! Jim

[edwardb]

Paul, is that all you do is build? Jim

Not exactly, but needless to say I have more time now that I'm retired. It's been just over a year now. I think it's going to work out. :p

[edwardb]

Yesterday I sprayed the final coats of the Lizard Skin and removed all the masking. Today it was dry enough to finish cleaning up, start putting on some parts for the final time, and take a few pics to share. I did a pretty extensive write-up about the Lizard Skin process and results for my last build. So not going to repeat it all. The thread is here: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/342954-lizard-skin-application-experience.html. I’m happy with the final result, and based on my first two builds and actual driving experience, the stuff does the job. In addition to the sound and heat properties, I really like how it seals everything up. There’s no denying though it’s a lot of work. From a pure hours standpoint I’ll bet no more than fitting, peeling, and sticking one of the other more traditional products. But the hours masking, then getting ready for spraying (especially if you’re not really set up for it, which I’m not), and cleaning up afterwards is some effort. But now that it’s done, I would do it again.

First up was to install the last couple panels. I still had two left on the driver’s side footbox. The outside top and side will be saved until the body is ready to go on. Not pictured, but another step is to fill any gaps between the aluminum panels, the frame, around seat belt tabs, etc. The Lizard Skin doesn’t stick well to silicone caulk that a lot of guys use. There are several seam sealer products that work well. For this build I used grey and white Marine Tex epoxy. The white matched the white aluminum panels nicely. The grey is really more black, but still worked OK. I put tape where there were any gaps, usually on the finished side, filled with the Marine Tex epoxy, then removed the tape after it set up. Left nice clean filled joints. With the Lizard Skin added over top on the inside, should be good.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_4066_zpsvroyrlrx.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_4066_zpsvroyrlrx.jpg.html)

I took a DA to all the panels that would get Lizard Skin and then did all the masking. Pretty much an all-day process. This was ready to spray with the exception of some more drop cloths I had on the floor and on the garage door.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_4048_zps69kmopq2.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_4048_zps69kmopq2.jpg.html)

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http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_4047_zpsd1j2esg4.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_4047_zpsd1j2esg4.jpg.html)

Note I left the Coyote harness in. I didn't feel like taking the power wiring apart and the harness back out (again). I just wrapped it with tape and sprayed around it. Also visible in these pictures are the wiring harnesses for the heated seats. This is exactly how I’ve done the last two builds. Located the connectors and relays for under the seats, then routed the wires along the inside corners of the cockpit up to the dash area where I mounted the switches. I used a little contact cement to initially hold the wires in place. The wires end up buried in the insulation and carpet and completely disappear. These are the CobraHeat heaters mentioned in a previous update. The supplied harnesses aren’t long enough to be installed this way, so it’s necessary to stretch them a bit. In the process, also changed the power wires to enter at the dash switches rather than at the seats the way they’re wired. These means it's only necessary to have three wires between the seats and the switches.

[edwardb]

I used the Lizard Skin undercoat gun as before. It works pretty well with the settings I describe in the detailed thread. But the stuff does sling everywhere. You cannot have too many drop cloths. As the Lizard Skin write-up describes, the sound insulation (SC) product is sprayed first. Here I did two coats in the trunk and cockpit. I got a little heavy handed trying to make sure I had plenty in the footboxes and managed to get it too thick and it started sagging and running. Took a little post spray clean-up and touch-up. Turned out OK, but not my finest hour… Then the next day I sprayed two coats of the ceramic heat insulation (CI) only in the cockpit. I tried to make sure especially the footboxes got a full heavy coats, and this time without making a mess. Worked out OK. Just like in the last builds, used pretty much all of the 2-gallon pail of each product. This is how it looks now:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_4060_zpsi6e7wvnu.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_4060_zpsi6e7wvnu.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_4061_zpsjjf4eccj.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_4061_zpsjjf4eccj.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_4062_zpssblzwobk.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_4062_zpssblzwobk.jpg.html)

I put the e-brake handle back in for hopefully the last time. Also installed the DBW assembly (accelerator) and brake and clutch pedals. These are the AC pedals from Forte that bolt directly onto the Wilwood pedal arms. They look good plus are a bit narrower than the Wilwood pedals. It’s hard to judge from this picture, but there’s 1-1/2 inches from the RH side of the accelerator pedal to the footbox wall. Then 2 inches from the LH side of the accelerator pedal to the brake pedal. I’m very happy with this spacing, and very similar to my previous SBF builds. It is possible to have decent pedal space with a Coyote. Thanks again to 2bking for his outstanding footbox mod design.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_4067_zps5voq19qc.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_4067_zps5voq19qc.jpg.html)

Now I’m full on into electrical wiring, including the dash and installing the RF harness. Plus I'm taking #7750 out of storage next week and will get it ready for another great driving season. :cool:

[skullandbones]

That was very cool the way you ran your main battery power wiring scheme. I like that a lot especially the placement of the cutoff switch and the front mounted battery and wiring in that area. There are so many ways to do it but I haven't seen that one. Pretty work!

Thanks,

WEK.

[RR20AC]

Nice Paul, l will be going with the lizard skin too per your advice. I am going to need some of that matching chassis paint to paint my brake and fuel lines. I saw the can but not sure where you got it. Thanks for the great updates. Jim

[edwardb]

Nice Paul, l will be going with the lizard skin too per your advice. I am going to need some of that matching chassis paint to paint my brake and fuel lines. I saw the can but not sure where you got it. Thanks for the great updates. Jim

Good luck with the Lizard Skin. I just put the touch-up paint picture as a thumbnail. If you click the pic you can see the details on the can. The website is http://www.lowvolumepowder.com/. The color isn't showing on their website, but I sent an email and received a quick response with the order info. Or probably you could call them.

[GoDadGo]

I Wish I Had Your Skills! My MK-4 is coming along nicely, but not this nicely! Keep it up because you are helping everybody by showing us what a Factory Five can be. Can't Wait To See The Final Product!

PS: How do you like your Max Jax Lift?

[edwardb]

I Wish I Had Your Skills! My MK-4 is coming along nicely, but not this nicely! Keep it up because you are helping everybody by showing us what a Factory Five can be. Can't Wait To See The Final Product!

PS: How do you like your Max Jax Lift?

Thanks for the generous comment. I'm anxious to see and drive the final product as well. But I also enjoy the build process.

The MaxJax? It's exactly what it is. A relatively basic DIY quality lift. I wouldn't compare it directly to a more professional version, but then it's much cheaper and fits better into my 2-car garage. It's perfect for the low ceiling garage I have. I can't go any higher than this will go. My only complaint is the two posts don't always stay perfectly synchronized. But it's not a big issue and completely workable. The difference in working on the build on a lift vs. the usual jack stands and crawling on the ground is night and day.

[GoDadGo]

1. Right now I use floor jacks, blocks, jack stands and my purpose built Factory Five Super Saw Horses (See My Gallery) so you get the picture.
2 If the Max Jax system would be installed permanently, basically hard lining the hoses at equal length, do you think they would stay in sync since it uses a positive displacement style pump?
3. Also, I too have a low ceiling (8'6") so the lower lift height (42") is actually perfect for my needs.
4. What-Cha-Think about hard lining and permanently mounting the system if you don't need to move it around?

[edwardb]

1. Right now I use floor jacks, blocks, jack stands and my purpose built Factory Five Super Saw Horses (See My Gallery) so you get the picture.
2 If the Max Jax system would be installed permanently, basically hard lining the hoses at equal length, do you think they would stay in sync since it uses a positive displacement style pump?
3. Also, I too have a low ceiling (8'6") so the lower lift height (42") is actually perfect for my needs.
4. What-Cha-Think about hard lining and permanently mounting the system if you don't need to move it around?

Yea, I know about all that. Did two builds that way and promised myself I wasn't going to do it again. My tired body just couldn't take it any more. The MaxJax flexible hoses are already the same length, and I don't think hard lines or a permanent installation would change how it operates. For me it's important to keep it portable. When I don't have a project on the lift, I unbolt the post in the center of the garage and roll it over to the other wall. It just takes a few minutes and for me is a major advantage of this particular setup. I don't consider the sync thing to be a major issue. It's just a function of the very simple design. But I wanted to point it out in my comments for full disclosure. If you look at reviews for this lift on the Garage Journal Board, you'll see a number of comments about how it works and this aspect is discussed frequently.

[GoDadGo]

Thanks & I'll be looking to upgrade my garage in the future. Will likely go with the Max Jax system and mount it permanently since I actually built the shop in order to build the car. My other workshop washed away with Katrina so this one can be opened on both ends to let storm surges go through. Thanks For The Insight Because Crawling Around Sometimes Isn't Always That Much Fun!

[edwardb]

Today it starts in earnest. Yes, all this stuff eventually fits. But easy to see why some builders get intimidated by it. This is the regular RF harness plus the Coyote harness. There will be some pruning. Depending on how you lay out your dash, it can really help. In this case, because of where I have the ignition and headlight switches, shortening those legs off the harness helps a bunch. I'm also thinking I'm going to need to modify the Coyote harness some. Right now, everything routes to the DS footbox. But there's only so much room in there.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_0334_zpsmrdczdvi.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_0334_zpsmrdczdvi.jpg.html)

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[GoDadGo]

Ironically I just finished the chassis harness and stereo so I'm moving on to the dash so thanks for posting these pics.
Even though the instructions that came with the kit from Factory Five / Ron Francis are good, seeing this picture really helps.
Being a first time builder seeing this photo is helpful.
Thanks-O-Million!

[dougski]

Just curious about plans for attaching the trans cover. I read in an earlier post that you plan to make it removable. As always thanks for the exceptional level of detail in your thread.

[edwardb]

Just curious about plans for attaching the trans cover. I read in an earlier post that you plan to make it removable. As always thanks for the exceptional level of detail in your thread.

You're welcome. Regarding the removable trans cover, I don't know. My last two builds I mounted them permanently, so no experience having one that's removable. I would prefer not having visible mounting screws, so I'm thinking about some kind of hidden attachment from the bottom. But at this point don't know the details or feasibility. First order of business is to get the engine and trans in. Should be the next month or (hopefully) less. That will let me set the shifter location in the cover plus look at ways to attach it. It will have the same 1/8 foam and leather as the dash on the top, and insulation (more Lizard Skin) on the bottom. I'll post about it when the time comes.

[edwardb]

The 2015 Coyote controls pack has two clutch switches – one for the top and one for the bottom – as described in previous updates. The Ford provided switches are obviously made to snap into a production vehicle pedal box, and unwieldy to say the least for the Wilwood pedal box. The most challenging I think is the bottom switch, and I had not come up with any good ideas until a post from another forum member grluisi150. He took an approach I never considered, and it works great. Involves using the Ford provided switch, mounting it next to the clutch MC, and actuating the switch with a tab added to the MC. Note this is only applicable if you’re doing a hydraulic clutch. Yesterday I completed the fabrication, threw some paint on it, and this morning finished the installation. Works great!

I made the mounting plate from .090 aluminum. My first version just used the rear pedal box mounting bolt, but I wasn't satisfied it wouldn't turn. So rather than drill another hole through the pedal box I made another slightly longer plate and used both pedal box bolts. Also rather than trying to use the mounting clips molded into the switch, I cut those off and used a couple of cap screws through some existing holes in the switch. I tapped some threads into the base, but since it was only .090 thick (and only aluminum) wasn't happy with only two turns on the threads. So I riveted on another little piece that gives more threads plus provides a pocket for the switch to fit into. The switch mounting seems very solid. This is in an area in the footbox that wouldn't be very friendly to service once everything is closed up, so getting it right the first time is pretty important. The actuator piece for the MC pushrod is 1/8 steel strip stock.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4069_zpse8o7bbz7.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4069_zpse8o7bbz7.jpg.html)

All painted with Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black (good stuff) and mounted. The lead from the Coyote controls pack isn't seated yet. Just checking (and adjusting...) the length.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4070_zpsoozmz1pw.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4070_zpsoozmz1pw.jpg.html)

This is with the clutch pedal all the way against the back of the footbox. There's still about 1/32 inch of travel left on the switch, so it's not bottoming out. I put a test light on the leads, and the switch closes with the clutch pedal about 1-1/2 inches from the back of the footbox. Perfect.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4071_zpsh15vaw2t.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4071_zpsh15vaw2t.jpg.html)

Based on feedback from other builders using the 2015 Coyote, and indirectly from Ford Racing, the purpose of this switch is only to prevent the engine from starting unless the clutch is pushed in. So installed like this it will do exactly that. The top switch is apparently part of the solution to prevent stalling at idle so it doesn't need the speed dial module like the previous version. For that I'm using a brake light style switch for the clutch pedal arm mounted in the pedal box just like FF shows for the brake pedal arm.

In the meantime, wiring continues. I’ve now stripped off most of the wrap and convolute on the provided Coyote harness that is through the dash. It’s just going to work better after adjusting some of the lengths and reconfiguring it a bit. As delivered, nearly everything was on the end by the DS footbox. With the bulk of the RF harness in the same area, was just too congested. So I’m adjusting it a bit. Looks worse before it gets better, right?

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4073_zpsrkkau8pq.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4073_zpsrkkau8pq.jpg.html)

Another decision for this build has been tires for the 18 inch rims. The choices are somewhat limited, but after looking them over had pretty much decided to go with BFGoodrich Rival S tires. After hearing the supply is somewhat limited and 2016 production hasn’t started yet, decided I should snap up a set. They were available at Tire Rack, so clicked the order button yesterday. The fronts showed up on my porch today. Come on Tire Rack. 20 hours from order to receipt? You’re slacking. The rears shipped from Connecticut, and are due here tomorrow. The rears are the customary 315/30’s. For the front, the choice was 245/40 or 275/35. After studying the dimensions, decided to go with the 245’s. On paper they looked very close in size to the 255/40 Nitto NT555 Extreme ZR’s on #7750. And those go right to the wheel well lip. The 275’s would have stuck out quite a bit. I took a couple of quick pics of the new front tires. It’s a little hard to tell, but they are only fractions of an inch different than the Nitto’s I have now. I’m also seeing the Rivals are not directional like the Nitto’s. Interesting.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Wheels%20and%20Tires/IMG_4088_zpsb878l3s1.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Wheels%20and%20Tires/IMG_4088_zpsb878l3s1.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Wheels%20and%20Tires/IMG_4094_zpstqxv6sxn.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Wheels%20and%20Tires/IMG_4094_zpstqxv6sxn.jpg.html)

Certainly can see the very low profile of the 18-inch tires. Not a huge difference from the 17-inch tires, but all you 15-inch tire guys are probably cringing. It’s a different look, that’s for sure. Also evident from this picture is that good old #7750 is back in the house. I retrieved it from our off-site storage bay yesterday after its winter hibernation. It wasn’t real excited to start after sitting since late October, but it’s fine now. After checking everything over, took it for a 5 mile or so drive. Was only 35 degrees, but sunny, so actually pretty comfortable. It ran great and I can’t wait for the real driving season to start back up. Looks like it will be at least another week.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Wheels%20and%20Tires/IMG_4096_zpspo7urfdj.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Wheels%20and%20Tires/IMG_4096_zpspo7urfdj.jpg.html)

Back to the wiring.