EdwardBs Mk4 #8674 20th Anniversary Build

[kmseddon]

Hi Ed - Thank you for the incredible detail and effort your put into this build thread. My son and I really appreciate it as we are about to start our build. In post #9 you talk about add 10-32 nutserts for future accessibility. I'm struggling to see what these are used for later. Could you explain what these were used for later and post some pictures if you still have them? Thank you!

[edwardb]

Hi Ed - Thank you for the incredible detail and effort your put into this build thread. My son and I really appreciate it as we are about to start our build. In post #9 you talk about add 10-32 nutserts for future accessibility. I'm struggling to see what these are used for later. Could you explain what these were used for later and post some pictures if you still have them? Thank you!

You're welcome. Good to hear this build thread just keeps giving. The back edge of the F panel is where the front splash guards mount. They typically go in and out a few times during the build. Plus on the finished car removing them gives access to the side pipe bolts, the windshield bolts on the right side, the Coyote PCM if you're using it, plus some other reasons I'm probably forgetting. So I like using nutserts instead of rivets so the splash guard is more easily removeable. This is very much a personal decision. Some just use clecos during the build and then drill out the rivets any time they want to remove the splash guards. Your choice. I will also remind that poorly installed nutserts can be a real pain. They can spin, fall out, etc. So practice and be confident about what you're doing if you choose to go that way.

In case you're not positive about what I'm describing, this picture during final assembly shows the front splash guard in place. You can see the several silver screws that are in the nutserts holding it in place. Good luck with your build!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/.highres/IMG_1046_zpsrm0wskyb.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/13dc145c-6789-4c48-b6ef-0216c5b21214/p/0ac63a5f-9e57-4870-954d-dc77c29c8e23)

[Scott Walker]

Thanks Paul! Your build thread is super helpful. We are planning on bringing ours to Rochester Hills in the summer of 2021, fingers crossed I'll/it'll be ready. We have family there. I'll look you up when we are around.

[edwardb]

Thanks Paul! Your build thread is super helpful. We are planning on bringing ours to Rochester Hills in the summer of 2021, fingers crossed I'll/it'll be ready. We have family there. I'll look you up when we are around.

Cool. This Roadster is gone. Sold late last year. But the newly finished Coupe is going strong. Let me know when you're around. Hope things are a little more "normal" next summer.

[Morrisett]

Edwarb, how did you mount the aluminum support angles to the back of your dash panel? I can’t see any screws coming through the face of the aluminum which makes sense since you want a flush surface for the foam and leather… but how did you do it?
I am doing a similar dash to yours with the 1/8” foam and leather. Was there a certain produce you used for stretching the leather to get the folded marks in it from shipping out? Thank you

[edwardb]

Edwarb, how did you mount the aluminum support angles to the back of your dash panel? I can’t see any screws coming through the face of the aluminum which makes sense since you want a flush surface for the foam and leather… but how did you do it?
I am doing a similar dash to yours with the 1/8” foam and leather. Was there a certain produce you used for stretching the leather to get the folded marks in it from shipping out? Thank you

The angled support brackets on the back of the dash are held in place with flat head bolts and nuts through the dash. I don't recall how much I detailed this in the build thread, but for a couple builds I added a .040 doubler to the back of the FF dash to make it a bit stiffer and solid. The three brackets in the center only go through the doubler, so aren't visible in any pictures from the front. The end pieces do go through to the face of the dash since the doubler wasn't in that area. Those I countersunk just below the dash level and use JBWeld as a filler. Sanded flush and covered.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/.highres/IMG_3662_zps0aoawaoy.jpg?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/e88bc6fe-fc02-4959-b181-e3c4a97ad6d1/p/c266b2d5-b1be-42a4-8691-150871c55cfc)

For the leather, you really don't want to stretch it to remove wrinkles. The hide I purchased came folded and also had wrinkles. I contacted the seller and he said to drape it over a clothes pole or whatever and let it hang. The wrinkles did go mostly away after a week or two as I recall and fully disappeared without doing anything special when I covered the dash.

[smccoy]

Paul, I have really enjoyed reading this detailed thread many times while waiting on my kit. I recall seeing a dimensioned drawing of your dash layout *somewhere* and cannot find it again. Would it be possible for you to point me to it again?

[edwardb]

Paul, I have really enjoyed reading this detailed thread many times while waiting on my kit. I recall seeing a dimensioned drawing of your dash layout *somewhere* and cannot find it again. Would it be possible for you to point me to it again?

Cool. Good luck with your build! I posted the dash dimensions on a post in the other forum. https://www.ffcars.com/threads/edwardb%EF%BF%BDs-mk4-8674-20th-anniversary-build.518353/page-3#post-4988081

[smccoy]

Thank you! I knew I had seen it on one of the forums but sure couldn't find it yesterday.

[Sharris2]

You have the carbon fiber dash; did you install the heater box? if not if i were to move the firewall forward; how much room do you think i would get with the coyote gen3

Scott

[edwardb]

You have the carbon fiber dash; did you install the heater box? if not if i were to move the firewall forward; how much room do you think i would get with the coyote gen3

Scott

I don't have the carbon fiber dash. Wasn't offered at that time. The 20th Anniversary came with a pre-made plastic padded dash and glovebox. Didn't care for it. I used a blank aluminum dash, did my open sort of competition layout, then covered with thin padding and leather. Made my own glovebox. The build doesn't have a space heater. Only heated seats. I haven't installed a space heater in a Roadster yet. So no experience there. Also haven't done a firewall forward. I know the firewall forward will fit with the Coyote. I've seen other builds where it's been done. Don't know what that means for a heater and glovebox though. So not going to be much help. Sorry.

[mmklaxer]

This is the Aeromotive regulator mounted at the firewall, and the supply and return lines in the engine compartment. It’s not obvious in this picture, but I had to make a new bracket for the regulator to stand it away from the firewall one inch. The main harness for the Coyote needs to pass behind it.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3938_zpsjg253fnq.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/IMG_3938_zpsjg253fnq.jpg.html)



Your master cutoff switch appears to have a round plate riveted into place around it; It this for additional support, or other function?

[edwardb]

Your master cutoff switch appears to have a round plate riveted into place around it; It this for additional support, or other function?

Yes, for additional support. The Ron Francis MS-1 master disconnect I used has a relatively heavy action. So I added the round doubler.

[mmklaxer]

Some hours later (!), had the leather applied and everything installed. Having done a couple panels in vinyl and now leather, it’s a bit different. It goes from flat to a little wavy when the contact cement is applied. Maybe wouldn’t be as pronounced if the cement were sprayed. But with care it goes down and rolls out nice and flat. It also eats blades. I went through a stack of X-Acto blades. I pulled the leather through to the back with pie cuts on all but a couple openings where there isn't room and there's a sufficient flange or finish washer. The holes were cut taking this into account. These pictures don’t really do the leather justice. The natural grain is pretty cool. I still have work to do on the glovebox. I’m planning to line the interior with leather (have plenty) and then need to cover and hang the door. The grab handle is just bolted through the dash at this point. Once the dash is installed in the chassis, I’ll add braces down to the 2x2 dash tube as I’ve done before.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3818_zpstza6xrwf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3818_zpstza6xrwf.jpg.html)



ANy recommendations on how to apply the covering to avoid wrinkles and/or wavy results? my initial thought was to put the vinyl (in my case rapper extreme) face down on the ground as it lays pretty flat, spray it and the padded dash, place the dash on top, weight it down and pull the ends up around to the ends of the dash to secure. I assume pulling the ends and holding in place will keep enough tension on the vinyl to prevent wrinkling, but I wouldn't know until ti dries and I turn it over.

Another option would be to install it finish side facing up to ensure check for waves, but then I have no pressure on the vinyl to ensure it sticks. Thanks for your advice!

[edwardb]

ANy recommendations on how to apply the covering to avoid wrinkles and/or wavy results? my initial thought was to put the vinyl (in my case rapper extreme) face down on the ground as it lays pretty flat, spray it and the padded dash, place the dash on top, weight it down and pull the ends up around to the ends of the dash to secure. I assume pulling the ends and holding in place will keep enough tension on the vinyl to prevent wrinkling, but I wouldn't know until ti dries and I turn it over.

Another option would be to install it finish side facing up to ensure check for waves, but then I have no pressure on the vinyl to ensure it sticks. Thanks for your advice!

In this case, because it's leather and not particularly stretchy, I taped the leather piece back side up on my workbench. Then brushed contact cement on both surfaces and made sure the leather was as flat as possible. When both sides dry to the touch carefully dropped the dash onto the leather. The adhesion is instant but still removed and rolled out to make sure. Plus pulled around and adhered the curved ends. There were no wrinkles and all good. I'm not sure this process would be the best for yours though. I've used that rapper extreme vinyl before and it's quite stretchy and might not lay flat enough to use a similar process. I'd recommend having the dash on the bench face up and drop the vinyl onto it. I'd also recommend having a helper. Hold the vinyl piece in the air by the four corners. Drop one end and start pushing it into place holding the rest above the surface. Work to the other end slightly pulling as you go and pressing into place. If you use contact cement (spray or brush) the adhesion is instant and you shouldn't get any wrinkles. No dry time required. But you want it placed exactly right when making the first contact. My experience is if you pull it up and try to reposition, enough glue and/or foam (if you're using it) will stick and make the contacting surfaces rough enough that it shows through. Not nice. Hope that helps and good luck.

One other hint based on experience with several builds. I regularly see guys trimming the holes in the dash (gauges, switches, glovebox, etc.) to the outline of the holes. Then struggle sometimes to hide the cut edges. Don't do it that way. Make all the holes just oversize enough to pie cut the material, pull through the holes, and glue on the back side. You don't need the pie cuts to be right to the edge of the holes either. Within 1/16" or maybe a little more. Especially with the stretchy material you're using. When you pull around to the back side you'll end up with a nice clean hole, no cuts visible, and the gauges, etc. cover perfectly and will stay that way over time.

[mmklaxer]

Very helpful, thanks. The weld wood landau blue high heat contact cement I used for the pad to aluminum took a while to take a set, so good to know it’s more instantaneous when attaching two “soft” materials. That coulda been bad….

[edwardb]

Very helpful, thanks. The weld wood landau blue high heat contact cement I used for the pad to aluminum took a while to take a set, so good to know it’s more instantaneous when attaching two “soft” materials. That coulda been bad….

Slightly confused by your response. Any contact cement should be allowed to be dry to the touch on both surfaces before joining. Different surfaces will flash dry at different speeds. Also depends on how thick you put it on. Doesn't have to be thick at all. When dry, there should be just a slight shine to it and you're good to go. If it dries dull (like it does on leather BTW) a light second coat should be applied. In all cases, applied this way, the bond is instant and weighing down, waiting for it to dry, etc. isn't required. In fact, doesn't do anything. Use a roller to make sure it's firmly down and that's it. Note this Weldwood Landau product is actually intended to be sprayed, and that's what most pro shops do. But brushing it on for our projects works fine in my experience.

[mmklaxer]

Slightly confused by your response. Any contact cement should be allowed to be dry to the touch on both surfaces before joining. Different surfaces will flash dry at different speeds. Also depends on how thick you put it on. Doesn't have to be thick at all. When dry, there should be just a slight shine to it and you're good to go. If it dries dull (like it does on leather BTW) a light second coat should be applied. In all cases, applied this way, the bond is instant and weighing down, waiting for it to dry, etc. isn't required. In fact, doesn't do anything. Use a roller to make sure it's firmly down and that's it. Note this Weldwood Landau product is actually intended to be sprayed, and that's what most pro shops do. But brushing it on for our projects works fine in my experience.

I'm using the spray cans of weldwood landau, and I waited the 1-3 minutes to allow the product to tack up prior to applying the foam - even still, it was not adhering as you describe. I don't feel that I laid the product on too thick, so not sure what went wrong.

I have a fresh can of weldwood that I'll practice on some scrap padding/vinyl before the real application.

[edwardb]

I'm using the spray cans of weldwood landau, and I waited the 1-3 minutes to allow the product to tack up prior to applying the foam - even still, it was not adhering as you describe. I don't feel that I laid the product on too thick, so not sure what went wrong.

I have a fresh can of weldwood that I'll practice on some scrap padding/vinyl before the real application.

My experience and advice was completely based on the non-aerosol version, e.g. out of a gallon can. I've heard mixed reviews on the aerosol product. Can only suggest lots of experimentation before committing to the real thing. If it's not tacking up and providing instant bond then much of what I described doesn't apply. Good luck.

[Redlinejoev]

Hi Paul, just wondering if you any information on the MAF intake tube required. I'm at the the point where I'm installing the elbow and realised I don't have the Spectre intake tube thats recommended. Would happen to have a part number for thye one you got?

[edwardb]

Hi Paul, just wondering if you any information on the MAF intake tube required. I'm at the the point where I'm installing the elbow and realised I don't have the Spectre intake tube thats recommended. Would happen to have a part number for thye one you got?

I've done three builds that required a MAF intake tube. This one uses these parts:

Spectre SPE-9705 Mass Air Sensor filter adapter, Spectre SPE-9741 4” to 3.50” Reducer adapter, Spectre SPE-9771 4” hose coupling, Spectre 4” 90 ° intake tube, Spectre SPE-9799, Spectre Performance 8130 Small Air Filter Heat Shield

My Coupe (Gen 3 Coyote) uses these parts:

Treadstone Performance MAPHL35 MAF Mass Air Flow Adapter Pipe 3.5", Treadstone Performance ACCH35 HoneyComb MAF Mass Air Meter Airflow Straightener - 3.5", Treadstone Performance S35090BLK 90 Degree Silicone Hose Couplers 3.50" - 3.50"

My Truck build, although an LS3, uses similar parts and the Performance MRP MAF adapter pipes have been used in Coyote builds:

Performance MRP HA-SS-400D6 Mass Air Flow Housing with Air Straightener, 4.00" OD, 3.75" ID, Summit Racing SUM-294068 90 Degree Elbow, Silicone, Black, 4.00 in. Inlet, 4.00 in. Outlet, 6.00 in. Legs

So it's been kind of a mixed bag and you have various options. Spectre parts weren't available during certain periods, so the Treadstone Performance parts were referenced as an alternate in the Factory Five instructions. Those also started to be more difficult to obtain, so Performance MRP because an alternate. The Performance MRP part I purchased for my truck build was in stock and shipped immediately.

[toadster]

I've done three builds that required a MAF intake tube. This one uses these parts:

Spectre SPE-9705 Mass Air Sensor filter adapter, Spectre SPE-9741 4” to 3.50” Reducer adapter, Spectre SPE-9771 4” hose coupling, Spectre 4” 90 ° intake tube, Spectre SPE-9799, Spectre Performance 8130 Small Air Filter Heat Shield

My Coupe (Gen 3 Coyote) uses these parts:

Treadstone Performance MAPHL35 MAF Mass Air Flow Adapter Pipe 3.5", Treadstone Performance ACCH35 HoneyComb MAF Mass Air Meter Airflow Straightener - 3.5", Treadstone Performance S35090BLK 90 Degree Silicone Hose Couplers 3.50" - 3.50"

My Truck build, although an LS3, uses similar parts and the Performance MRP MAF adapter pipes have been used in Coyote builds:

Performance MRP HA-SS-400D6 Mass Air Flow Housing with Air Straightener, 4.00" OD, 3.75" ID, Summit Racing SUM-294068 90 Degree Elbow, Silicone, Black, 4.00 in. Inlet, 4.00 in. Outlet, 6.00 in. Legs

So it's been kind of a mixed bag and you have various options. Spectre parts weren't available during certain periods, so the Treadstone Performance parts were referenced as an alternate in the Factory Five instructions. Those also started to be more difficult to obtain, so Performance MRP because an alternate. The Performance MRP part I purchased for my truck build was in stock and shipped immediately.

always a treasure trove of info Paul!

did you use the 2 flow calibration tubes - (76 millimeter and 89 millimeter) which reduces the 4 inch intake system to the correct diameter at the sensor to retain calibration. from here: https://www.spectreperformance.com/9705-mass-flow-air-sensor-adapter-kit

[edwardb]

did you use the 2 flow calibration tubes - (76 millimeter and 89 millimeter) which reduces the 4 inch intake system to the correct diameter at the sensor to retain calibration. from here: https://www.spectreperformance.com/9705-mass-flow-air-sensor-adapter-kit

For the Spectre intake I used the reducer as described in the FF Gen 2 Coyote installation instructions. I can't tell you exactly which one it was because it was some years ago. But just to set your expectations, nothing you're going to do with the MAF tube is going to retain calibration. Without the OE stock airbox, the MAF calibration will not be correct. The custom tune required for best running Coyote installations addresses this. The Gen 3 Coyote in my Coupe was undriveable with the stock tune and was fixed by the Lund Performance custom tune. The guy that did the work said a high percentage of the tune adjustment (and the cause of my undriveable condition) was the MAF calibration.

[toadster]

For the Spectre intake I used the reducer as described in the FF Gen 2 Coyote installation instructions. I can't tell you exactly which one it was because it was some years ago. But just to set your expectations, nothing you're going to do with the MAF tube is going to retain calibration. Without the OE stock airbox, the MAF calibration will not be correct. The custom tune required for best running Coyote installations addresses this. The Gen 3 Coyote in my Coupe was undriveable with the stock tune and was fixed by the Lund Performance custom tune. The guy that did the work said a high percentage of the tune adjustment (and the cause of my undriveable condition) was the MAF calibration.

awesome thanks - there is no mention of the Spectre intake in the gen3 documentation, just the silicon hose that FFR provides, good to know there's historical content to review too!
I'll reach out to Lund to get their recommendations too -thanks!

[Redlinejoev]

Thanks Paul, as usual you're a wealth of knowledge. I've used your build threads to build my car so I owe you a great debt of gratitude. It's also nice to see your answer helped others too.

Joe

[maclonchas]

EdwardB (Paul),

I re-read your build threads repeatedly to ensure I get sanity from all the different opinions on building this car. What I noticed in your threads is no mention of trimming the UCA back side sleeves and threads like so many others do for the power steering setup. Is that just an omission on your part of the write up or you get sufficient play to get to the front alignment numbers Caster & Camber).

Thanks

Bill

[edwardb]

EdwardB (Paul),

I re-read your build threads repeatedly to ensure I get sanity from all the different opinions on building this car. What I noticed in your threads is no mention of trimming the UCA back side sleeves and threads like so many others do for the power steering setup. Is that just an omission on your part of the write up or you get sufficient play to get to the front alignment numbers Caster & Camber).

Thanks

Bill

Trimming the UCA's isn't required 100% of the time. Sometimes it's possible to get the power steering caster setting without trimming. Some feel that it's easier to just trim during assembly and then it's not an issue. I chose to wait and see because IMO it's not that hard to take apart if necessary. In this case, I didn't have to.

[jsingh]

Edwardb,
After completing the IRS assembly, did you torque the CV axle nuts to spec at this time?
If yes, what procedure did you use to keep the axle from spinning while you apply torque? Thanks.

Josh.

[edwardb]

Edwardb,
After completing the IRS assembly, did you torque the CV axle nuts to spec at this time?
If yes, what procedure did you use to keep the axle from spinning while you apply torque? Thanks.

Josh.

During the initial assembly, there's no way to hold things enough to get the spec torque amount. Snug them up the best you can. Once you get the brakes installed, you may be able to hold the disk with the e-brake enough to torque. Or with the brakes bled, holding the brake pedal down may do the job. The easiest is with the tire/wheel installed and on the ground. Then they torque without much drama. So you can save the step until later when it's a roller. Just don't forget.

[ThickCobra]

Paul, it has been a while since I worked on my anniversary cobra which I sold last March and that was equipped with a 351 Windsor motor. So I bought another cobra to build and this time with the coyote motor. I have a few questions if you will on the wiring. I’m attaching a picture of your wiring with the cut off switch and the coyote wiring. I’m curious how you paired down three wires going to the starter to a single 8 or 10 gauge wire.

My second question relates to the smaller gauge wire attached to your cut off switch that goes behind the dash and feeds the Ron Francis harness. Somehow I cannot solve where in fact you have connected that to the harness. You describe this as the Ron Francis feed going to the right.

I hope my questions make sense as I am stalled on the wiring. Thanks, in advance.

[edwardb]

Paul, it has been a while since I worked on my anniversary cobra which I sold last March and that was equipped with a 351 Windsor motor. So I bought another cobra to build and this time with the coyote motor. I have a few questions if you will on the wiring. I’m attaching a picture of your wiring with the cut off switch and the coyote wiring. I’m curious how you paired down three wires going to the starter to a single 8 or 10 gauge wire.

My second question relates to the smaller gauge wire attached to your cut off switch that goes behind the dash and feeds the Ron Francis harness. Somehow I cannot solve where in fact you have connected that to the harness. You describe this as the Ron Francis feed going to the right.

I hope my questions make sense as I am stalled on the wiring. Thanks, in advance.

No picture attached but hopefully I understand your questions. I'm assuming the "three wires going to the starter" you reference are the three wires in the RF harness (RED-BATTERY FEED, RED-ALTERNATOR FD, RED-IGN SW-SOL) that they show in the harness diagram going to the starter solenoid. While they can be routed to the actual starter solenoid of the now standard mini-starter they don't have to be. It's not very neat plus sometimes won't reach. My interpretation of the RF diagram is they're referring to the former days with a firewall mounted solenoid which is rarely used any more. Instead, on most of my builds, I route those three wires to a bus bar behind the dash (I typically shorten them) and then run a single wire from the bus bar to the master disconnect which when on sends +12 volts to the bus bar and powers the RF harness. This wire I think is the one you're asking about.

For the starter, the only thing there is the +12V battery connection, a ground cable to the chassis under one of the mounting bolts, and in the case of a Coyote build, the start wire to the small terminal from the Coyote harness.

Hopefully this makes sense and answers your question. Of course this isn't the only way to wire these things. Just how I've been doing it and it works.

[ThickCobra]

No picture attached but hopefully I understand your questions. I'm assuming the "three wires going to the starter" you reference are the three wires in the RF harness (RED-BATTERY FEED, RED-ALTERNATOR FD, RED-IGN SW-SOL) that they show in the harness diagram going to the starter solenoid. While they can be routed to the actual starter solenoid of the now standard mini-starter they don't have to be. It's not very neat plus sometimes won't reach. My interpretation of the RF diagram is they're referring to the former days with a firewall mounted solenoid which is rarely used any more. Instead, on most of my builds, I route those three wires to a bus bar behind the dash (I typically shorten them) and then run a single wire from the bus bar to the master disconnect which when on sends +12 volts to the bus bar and powers the RF harness. This wire I think is the one you're asking about.

For the starter, the only thing there is the +12V battery connection, a ground cable to the chassis under one of the mounting bolts, and in the case of a Coyote build, the start wire to the small terminal from the Coyote harness.

Hopefully this makes sense and answers your question. Of course this isn't the only way to wire these things. Just how I've been doing it and it works.

Sorry to bother you this Sunday morning. I clearly did not provide you enough information and I did not attach the pic of your cut off switch wired in your 2015 cobra. That said, you nailed it. I’m at the point where those three wires together are short of the mini starter by several inches. And there’s no way I can pull enough wire to get it to reach. So, I will look into putting a bus bar behind the dash and then running a single wire down to the mini starter.

[ThickCobra]

Would you happen to have a preferred bus bar?

[edwardb]

Would you happen to have a preferred bus bar?

I use products from Blue Sea Systems. Made for marine and very high quality. Most of their stuff is on Amazon so that makes it easy too. I've used a number of different bus bars from them. They have a number of configurations. I think the power one is a part #2307.

[ThickCobra]

After all your builds you still find time to help work thru issues/challenges for many of us. And for some of us, it makes the project much more rewarding. I for one certainly appreciate your generosity.

Jay

[edwardb]

Sorry to bother you this Sunday morning. I clearly did not provide you enough information and I did not attach the pic of your cut off switch wired in your 2015 cobra. That said, you nailed it. I’m at the point where those three wires together are short of the mini starter by several inches. And there’s no way I can pull enough wire to get it to reach. So, I will look into putting a bus bar behind the dash and then running a single wire down to the mini starter.


After all your builds you still find time to help work thru issues/challenges for many of us. And for some of us, it makes the project much more rewarding. I for one certainly appreciate your generosity.

Jay

Thanks for the generous comment. I enjoy sharing what I've learned. Most of the time it's even helpful. :p Based on your other comment, I'm not sure you're completely following the wiring setup I used. It sounds like you're describing a wire from the bus bar mentioned earlier back to the starter. That's not necessary. The three referenced wires in the RF harness don't need to be connected to the starter. They are the power for the harness and using the RF wiring diagram, get that power by attaching to the battery connection at the starter solenoid. But that's not the only way to do it. For clarity, here's a description of the wiring you're seeing in my 20th anniversary build, and repeated on several other of my builds:

Cable from the battery to the master disconnect. I used 2 gauge. From that connection, a cable (2 or 4 gauge) to the Coyote PCB through the mega fuse provided by Ford. So it's powered all the time.

On the other connection of the master disconnect, a cable back to the starter (I think I used 4 gauge but 2 gauge might be better) and a cable to the bus bar behind the dash powering the RF harness. I recall using 8 gauge.

Simple and hopefully makes sense. So again, the starter only has the switched 12V battery and the start wire from the Coyote harness. Explained in more detail and with pictures in this post: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=231732&viewfull=1#post231732.

[ThickCobra]

Now I have a complete picture. And have read the link you provided many many times. Each time I read it it becomes a little more clear. I am actually looking forward to getting back to the wiring tomorrow.

And the alternator wire that was bundled with the other two wires? I thought I would feed that from the bus bar. Make sense?

[edwardb]

Now I have a complete picture. And have read the link you provided many many times. Each time I read it it becomes a little more clear. I am actually looking forward to getting back to the wiring tomorrow.

And the alternator wire that was bundled with the other two wires? I thought I would feed that from the bus bar. Make sense?

Yes. That works.

[ThickCobra]

I have diagrammed what you have shared with me which works rather straightforward with a two post cut off switch. However, I failed to mention that I have a four post switch, which came with the kit. It was still important that I understood the flow with the simple two switch cut off switch. So, would this be a simple adjustment to the diagram with a four post switch?

If it is too complicated, I may just go and buy a two post switch.

[edwardb]

I have diagrammed what you have shared with me which works rather straightforward with a two post cut off switch. However, I failed to mention that I have a four post switch, which came with the kit. It was still important that I understood the flow with the simple two switch cut off switch. So, would this be a simple adjustment to the diagram with a four post switch?

If it is too complicated, I may just go and buy a two post switch.

I haven't used a 4-post master cutoff. But shouldn't be complicated. The other two posts are used for the alternator charge wire so it's cut off as well as the battery power. Prevents the engine running on alternator alone if the switch is closed while the engine is running. Required by some competition sanctioning bodies and wouldn't be difficult to implement. Or just leave those two posts empty and wire as discussed. I've never switched off the master disconnect while the engine is running, so there's that. Plus on a Coyote, wired as discussed here, switching off the master disconnect would break power to the RF harness which in turn would break power to the Coyote ignition relay trigger wire (light green typically connected to the RF EFI/Coil wire) and the Coyote would stop.

Side note -- for the record -- I misstated the wire sizes I listed in post #786. Brain cramp. I fixed it.

[ThickCobra]

I reached out to factory five and they sent me the current instructions for installing the four post unit. I think with a little tweaking I can make it work. And, they also install a jumper between the 2B post. I forwarded you the instructions via email. Thanks

Jay

[M22_COBRA]

I reached out to factory five and they sent me the current instructions for installing the four post unit. I think with a little tweaking I can make it work. And, they also install a jumper between the 2B post. I forwarded you the instructions via email. Thanks

Jay

This is how I have mine that I'm still working thru, I need to send my upper left post back to the starter. I'm basically using both "A" sides ( marked on the post side of the switch) and treating it like a 2 post. I considered making a buss bar that ties the always hot "A" to the mate in "B" it would act like a 2 post switch with extra mounting opportunities. To me a 4 post is really only usable if you have a multi position switch integrated on it... So there should have been a middle left and right positions on the switch so you could have FULL OFF, Switched "A", Switched "B". But so far it still does the job.
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