EdwardBs Mk4 #8674 20th Anniversary Build [Archive] - Page 2

edwardb

04-14-2016, 09:47 PM

Progress continues with the wiring. I have everything in place now. Just need to make all the necessary connections and (hopefully) wrap it up. In a previous update I showed the power wiring from the front mounted battery to the disconnect along with the Coyote power distribution box wiring. Now for the rest.

First was the Ron Francis harness. I made a number of mods to the harness as supplied to make it fit a little better plus integrate with the 2015 Coyote controls pack harness. I removed the 33 hot rod specific leg. After checking the required lengths, I shortened the headlight and ignition switch legs. This makes a big difference in how the harness fits. Each was about one foot too long for where I located the respective switches. I removed the blue solenoid start and clutch interlock wires since they’re not needed for the Coyote. The only blue wire remaining is direct from the ignition switch to the start sense wire in the Coyote harness. I removed the cooling fan power and sensor wires from the front harness. This is provided through the Coyote harness plus eliminates a connector from the already crowded front harness through the DS footbox. I’m going to use the cooling fan circuit in the RF harness to power the aux outlets under the dash. I eliminated the connector on the gauge sending unit leg. Since only three of the wires are required (tach, oil pressure, water temp) I connected them directly and added them to the alternator leg since they go to the same place on the engine. Finally I broke into the fuel pump circuit in the RF fuse box and added the connection to the Coyote harness. The power and control for the fuel pump comes from the Coyote PDB and PCM, but it uses the existing RF wiring harness to get the +12V back to the in-tank fuel pump. It also uses the existing RF relay and inertia switch.

The Coyote harness also needed a little massaging to install the behind the dash wiring a little better. Nearly all of the connections were on the DS footbox end, which is already really congested. So I stripped back all the wrap and insulation, moved things around some, and then re-wrapped. In the process, adjusted the lengths of the various connections (clutch switches, DBW, ODB, etc.) to more closely match the installation. On the other side of the firewall, I previously mentioned moving the blue starter wire from the PCM location to the PDB location so it could route to the starter along with the battery cable. I also broke out the cooling fan wire and then routed it through a new harness I made for the PS front which has wires for the Tangent driving lights that will be in the front oil cooler, same as my previous builds. In the process, added a wire to the cooling fan wire back to the dash so I can have an indicator light when the fan is running.

With that all done, installed the main RF harness into the chassis along with the fuse panel. I did the power wiring much like my last build. I used a Blue Seas Systems bus bar for the main power. I have an 8 gauge wire from the switched side of the master disconnect to the bus bar. Then the three main power wires from the RF harness are attached. These are the same three wires that are normally attached to a firewall solenoid instead making just a 6-8 inch trip to the bus bar. Then I added a Blue Seas Systems 150 amp fuse to the alternator circuit. Typically DD’s have a fusable link in the alternator circuit. In stock form the RF harness has no protection from an alternator failure. Not typically a problem, but still something I prefer to add.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4109_zpspaa3nibw.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4109_zpspaa3nibw.jpg.html)

Again like my last build, I’m using an American Autowire headlight control module. This module handles the current of the headlights and low/high beam switching along with providing a flash to pass function. These were discussed some on the forum a couple years ago. Unfortunately, due to some failures, they were taken off the market and are no longer available. The failures were traced to interference from analog MSD ignition boxes (good old MSD takes it on the chin again…) and I’ve never had any issues with the same headlight control module and digital MSD box in #7750. But just in case I picked up a couple spares while they were still available, and will use one of them on this build. Since the module needs direct battery voltage, it has a separate circuit breaker. So I made a mounting bracket for the control module, circuit breaker, and another circuit breaker for the Tangent driving lights. The bracket allows the harness legs to pass behind it. The two circuit breakers get their +12V from the main power bus bar. The rear harness can be seen just below the headlight module.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4110_zpswg4w7n5p.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4110_zpswg4w7n5p.jpg.html)

It’s not very pretty yet (probably never will be…) but this is how I’ve got the RF harness and the Coyote controls harness installed behind the dash. The connector at the top is from the Coyote harness. Still lots to do here to complete the point-to-point wiring and clean everything up.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4111_zpsssevrnt7.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4111_zpsssevrnt7.jpg.html)

The center dash brace also has quite a bit going on. Two auxiliary outlets, two switches for fuel pump and ignition, the previously shown Watson’s Streetworks headlight reminder and turn signal buzzer, and four relays. The relays use sense wires from the ignition and headlight switches for the headlight reminder, aux outlets, and running lights.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4113_zpstt6dvvl3.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4113_zpstt6dvvl3.jpg.html)

I ended up mounting the fuel pump inertia switch all the way over on the PS side firewall extension. It was just too crowded on the driver’s side. It’s relatively accessible behind the dash next to the glovebox. Barely visible in the LH side of the pic is the ODB connector that I'm installing on top of the 2x2 tube under the glovebox. Again just because it's crowded on the DS.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4101_zpsncpqe6sj.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4101_zpsncpqe6sj.jpg.html)

Finally, the DS footbox is 100% complete except for the flex line from the clutch MC to the slave. I’ll install that after the engine and trans are installed. All the wiring is installed including RF harness and fuse box, clutch and brake switches, front harness, DBW module, and RF and Coyote harness ground wires. The footbox is already narrowed from the stock version to provide space for the very wide Coyote engine. So this is a very busy place! But it’s all there now.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4114_zpsbcllhqmj.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4114_zpsbcllhqmj.jpg.html)

edwardb

04-14-2016, 09:48 PM

Late today I applied voltage and very carefully checked what's installed to date. So far everything is working as it should. I have power at all four corners where it’s supposed to be, and all the loose wires have power at all the right times. So far so good. That’s the update for wiring for now. Will be taking a few days break for an out of town trip, but back at it next week when I hope to get the chassis portion wrapped up and then start the instrument panel.

Couple of other parts updates. I’ve been going back and forth on what to do with the roll bar(s). I did a Breeze DS roll bar on my last build. The look is great. But for a couple of reasons I want to do dual roll bars on this build, and I just wasn’t sure I wanted to do the welding and finishing thing for two of the Breeze roll bars. Plus I already had the chrome DS roll bar that came with my kit, and they just don’t seem to be worth too much selling on the forum. So I went ahead and ordered/received a chrome PS FF roll bar. I had a parts credit with FF from the welding mishap (like I said before, they stepped up on that one) so it was a no-brainer to go ahead and go with the dual FF roll bars. On another note I happened to notice a little bit of brake fluid on the bottom of one of the CNC reservoirs. I cleaned it up thinking I had just gotten a little sloppy when filling them, but it was back a couple days later. Several more rounds and confirmed it was leaking. Just barely. Took a few days to form a small droplet along one side. But leaking is not an option on these, so called CNC. They were very nice and said to send it back and they would either repair or replace. Better now than when the build is done, so back it went. Finally, I ordered my TKO600 transmission and found it will be a few weeks longer than I expected for delivery. I’m doing the Liberty’s Performance modded version again like the last build (love it) but found they are very busy and a bit backed up. I have plenty to keep me busy so won’t affect the overall build schedule. But will keep me from putting the engine back in for a little while longer.

On a separate but related note, through the forum I met a local fellow car enthusiast who was interested in seeing my builds plus has a nice shiny new 2015 Mustang GT. So today, with the weather finally being very pleasant, we had an enjoyable visit. We spent some time looking at the new build and talking Factory Five for awhile. Then we took a fun cruise in #7750 (never gets old) and he let me drive his new Coyote powered Mustang. Very impressive. Whet my appetite for the Coyote in the Roadster, to say the least. I think it's going to have enough "go." Hey George! Great meeting you today.

progmgr1

04-15-2016, 07:09 PM

Awesome build thread! I'm picking up a lot of tips that will help me get a good start on my '33 Hot Rod that was (finally - long story) delivered last week. Please keep the posts and photos coming - there's gold in every one!
Keith

edwardb

04-15-2016, 09:06 PM

edwardb

04-23-2016, 05:32 PM

Today I basically finished the behind the dash chassis wiring. Since I already posted the in-progress pictures, need to show the nearly finished status. Compared to some of the amazing and perfectly organized wiring I see from some of the builds, this is a little bit like spaghetti. Even with all the harness mods I did. But I’m not sure it could be too much different short of doing everything point-to-point with custom wiring vs. the somewhat universal harnesses. Plus the Coyote harness basically doubles the behind the dash busyness compared to #7750 Mk4. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

This is what it looks like now. Still a few loose wires to deal with once the dash is ready to go on. Specifically, the headlight controller, turn signal buzzer, two indicators and the HAAT wire from the Coyote harness that I’ll use for the clock and GPS. But everything else is there and checked out as far as I can. No smoke (yet). That ignition switch is an old spare that I used for checking stuff out. I’ll be using the FF one that’s already in the dash. Same for the headlight switch.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4115_zpsikx0aczt.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4115_zpsikx0aczt.jpg.html)

A little closer view of the center where most of the action is. The large connector at the center top is one of the main Coyote interfaces.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4116_zpsbhlm1xy0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4116_zpsbhlm1xy0.jpg.html)

In addition to checking out all the circuits possible at this point, I also checked the Coyote wiring as much as I could. With the key on, the fuel pump starts. In the ignition start position, I have +12V on the blue wire at the starter. With the Coyote ignition sense circuit switch off (one of the switches on the center brace) the fuel pump doesn’t start and obviously there’s no voltage at the starter. Exactly what I would expect. Confirmed there is only voltage at the starter with the clutch bottom switch engaged, so the safety interlock is working. Also confirmed the top clutch switch doesn’t affect anything I’ve tested so far. The start and run circuits are active with or without the top clutch switch. At this point, everything appears to be working correctly. That’s good!

This is what’s behind the dash on the passenger side. Not too exciting, since the space is mostly taken up with the glovebox. You can see where I chose to put the ODB plug and the inertia switch. Harnesses include a new one for the front running lights, the wipers, and a footwell light. There’s one also on the driver’s side, and I have them on the courtesy light circuit. So they turn on with a twist of the headlight switch.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4119_zpssci3uz0a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4119_zpssci3uz0a.jpg.html)

These gauges are the GPS speedo version, so need to place the antenna somewhere. Speedhut says it can be under the fiberglass, and with an unobstructed sky view as much as possible. Factory Five just had theirs stuck behind the dash near the top. Some guys are putting them in this general area or the nearby 3/4 inch tube, and apparently works OK. There’s plenty of cable. I was thinking about putting it on the top of the DS footbox, nearer to the front. That would get it out of the view of the windshield posts and frames. Not sure it’s necessary though.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4118_zpspbihdxt0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4118_zpspbihdxt0.jpg.html)

Just a little while ago I set the dash in place along with the dash harness/connectors and marked where it should be placed to best match up with connectors on the main harness. Now just need to hook everything up including all the gauges, switches, indicators, etc. Then it should be able to go back and stay. Hopefully that will be my next update. At that point, wiring will be essentially done except for exterior lighting and a couple engine hookups.

Couple of other points of progress. I received the CNC triple reservoir back from CNC. Recall in my last update I mentioned that mine was very slightly leaking. They sent a shiny new one, total time less than two weeks. That includes the ride back and forth between California and Michigan. No complaints with that service. This one looks good. No signs of pinholes or porosity like the last one, although I will never know if that corner was really where it was leaking. This one has had fluid in it for a couple days and all is clean. So I suspect another build hiccup is history. I did replace the 12 screws on the top covers with 10-24 SS button heads. I noticed on #7750 that the generic slotted screws CNC uses get kind of a dull corrosion after a while. Can’t have that.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_4121_zps31vljhvg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Brakes/IMG_4121_zps31vljhvg.jpg.html)

While everything is wide open, went ahead and mounted the wiper motor. I used the exact location, angle, etc. as #7750 sitting here in the garage. Nice luxury that. FF does supply a different mounting now. Instead of the padded U-shaped bracket (that requires a pad or spacer behind the motor) they now have a full circle padded clamp. Nice. My only complaint was it’s plated a funky yellow/green color and didn’t look too great. So I cleaned and sanded and gave it a coat of Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black. Looks much better now. Also since I completed the harness and wiring, did a quick electrical check. Two speeds plus park. Perfect! A lot of guys struggle to get this thing working right, especially the park function. Using the Lucas wiper switch and wired the way it’s shown, it works.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_4122_zpsxpsduse8.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_4122_zpsxpsduse8.jpg.html)

edwardb

04-23-2016, 05:32 PM

Also this week I had my shiny new BF Goodrich Rival S tires mounted and balanced. A little bit of drama with the valve stems. Factory Five no longer provides them with the wheels, and the tire store had an issue getting either standard or bolt-in stems to fit. Jay at FF knew exactly what valve stem to use (standard TR413 rubber pull-through) and gave me instructions to pass to the installer. Success! Installed them on the chassis. Will soon be a roller.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Wheels%20and%20Tires/IMG_4126_zps8qbvd53a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Wheels%20and%20Tires/IMG_4126_zps8qbvd53a.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Wheels%20and%20Tires/IMG_4127_zps6ynwdkck.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Wheels%20and%20Tires/IMG_4127_zps6ynwdkck.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Wheels%20and%20Tires/IMG_4129_zpsifqhjxkd.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Wheels%20and%20Tires/IMG_4129_zpsifqhjxkd.jpg.html)

Finally, I made a small addition to my tool collection this week. I have decent lighting in my garage and workshop. But working behind the dash or under the car I frequently end up using a rechargeable flashlight or work light which can be a pain. I have been blessed with still nearly 20/20 distance vision. But close-up is on the clock, and hasn’t gotten better with time. So work nearly always includes using my readers, and lately seems the lighting is more important. I’ve seen where some guys use a head lamp. Saw this at my local tool store and just had to have one. It’s a MAXXEON WorkStar 620 Technician's Headlamp. Rechargeable and nice and bright. Less than $30. Works well. I recommend it.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_4132_zpsy0hfxanu.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_4132_zpsy0hfxanu.jpg.html)

Back to wiring, and lots of other things I’ll work on while waiting for my transmission and then engine install. Plus the weather really has seemed to have changed. So cruising time is also here.

RR20AC

04-23-2016, 06:25 PM

edwardb

04-24-2016, 07:25 AM

Thanks for the update Paul. Just got my LVP paint and I about ready to finish the holes in the panel corners with marine tex. Paint seems to be a perfect match and they sent some white too. Thanks for the great tips. Jim

Hey Jim! Great to hear from you and glad my musings are helpful. Also good to hear that paint matched your frame. I heard from another 20th Anniversary builder who also got some of the LVP paint and it wasn't such a good match. Not sure where the variation might be.

edwardb

04-29-2016, 09:47 AM

Yesterday I finished wiring the back of the instrument panel, and with the help of my able assistant (my wife) the instrument panel is hung, wired, and checked out. Needless to say, another pretty big milestone in the build. I’ve checked 100% of the circuits, including all the lights, flashers, turn signals, etc. and all are working properly. I had a bit of a concern when the instrument panel was first powered up because the fuel gauge promptly swept to “full” even though the tank is bone dry. The factory default calibration is supposed to be the same ohm range as the Ford sender we typically use. I checked the calibration, and it wasn’t. It was at the lowest range, causing it to read full. Toggled over to the proper range, and it went to empty and I suspect is OK. Won’t know for sure until there’s gas in the tank.

My major work since the last update was wiring the back of the instrument panel. I posted this previously, but this is the “before” picture:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_0332_zpsyd7udebm.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_0332_zpsyd7udebm.jpg.html)

Now looks like this:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4133_zpsy8lqzxav.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4133_zpsy8lqzxav.jpg.html)

And a couple closer up:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4135_zpshfvrqpqz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4135_zpshfvrqpqz.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4136_zpspreocwjn.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4136_zpspreocwjn.jpg.html)

Much like the harnesses in the chassis, not easy to make everything pretty. But I’m satisfied with how it turned out. It’s mildly concerning that if a gauge were to fail, it wouldn’t be too easy to get out. But even though this looks all wrapped up, I tried to use a little logic. All the main harness wires are at the bottom of the bundle. Those shouldn’t ever need to be disturbed. The two daisy chain harnesses from Speedhut (one for lighting only, the other for power and lighting) I added last and just placed them as best I could on top of the harness with some tie-wraps. It would be easy enough to clip the tie-wraps and get a gauge out if necessary.

I added Packard 56 style connectors (from DelCity) for the turn signal/hazard connections to the RT turn signal, and another Packard connector you can see at the top for the clock, GPS, fan indicator, and Coyote fault indicator. I used a Weather Pack connector for the headlight circuit to the American Autowire headlight controller mentioned previously. You can also see where I permanently mounted the pushbutton for the speedo along the bottom of the dash, the dimmer for the dash lights also along the bottom of the dash, and the pushbutton for the clock to the interior of the glovebox.

The three large connectors coming up next to the glovebox are of course the dash harness connectors from the RF harness. I cannot stress strongly enough to find the proper location for those connectors. After the main harness is installed in the chassis, test fit the instrument panel and find out where the dash harness connectors need to be to mate properly. Mark this location and hold it there while wiring the dash. There isn’t a lot of wiggle room with these connectors once you hang the dash. You need them to be in the right place.

I haven’t mentioned before in this build thread, but the majority of my connections are crimped with a good crimper (very important), have a light touch of solder, and covered with adhesive lined shrink sleeving. Often called dual wall. This is probably overkill, but I’m comfortable doing it and I’m quite confident these will be good connections for a long time. The merits (or not) of soldering is often debated, and I don’t want to start it here. I have the proper tools (Weller solder station), proper technique, and many years of experience. Going back to building Heathkits in college. OK, I really dated myself there, didn’t I? The only connections that aren’t soldered are the large gauge connectors with 360 degree crimps using the hydraulic crimper mentioned before, and Weather Pack connectors. I find those crimp perfectly with the right good crimper and proper technique. With the added second crimp on the seal (gently, don’t overdo it) I don’t add solder to those and generally don’t recommend it.

Here is a pic of all the wiring behind the dash with everything installed. This is by far the busiest view. It’s not too bad from the bottom, and the major components are (somewhat…) accessible. I really don’t want to think about taking the dash off again, but it would be completely possible as all the fasteners can be reached from the bottom and everything is on connectors.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4148_zpslp7yldvx.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4148_zpslp7yldvx.jpg.html)

This morning I snapped a couple pics of the installed dash. Nothing really to add. I’m very satisfied with how it turned out.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4144_zpsm3tx0ohz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4144_zpsm3tx0ohz.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4145_zps8vwgdvra.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4145_zps8vwgdvra.jpg.html)

edwardb

04-29-2016, 09:47 AM

In my last update, I mentioned I was looking for a place to mount the Speedhut GPS antenna. I took 2bking’s suggestion and went with spot next to the windshield mounting on the PS. Fits perfectly there. I bundled the extra cable (it’s 15 feet long!) and tied if off above the glovebox. When I was checking the circuits on the instrument panel while working in the basement, I put the antenna next to the basement window and it acquired from a cold start in about 15 seconds. Since then, it acquires very quickly. I have the GPS keep alive wire powered all the time, so it should be nearly instant once the car is done and I'm satisfied the antenna should get good reception from this location.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4142_zpsmwynna2l.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4142_zpsmwynna2l.jpg.html)

Finally, just for grins, this morning I took a several second exposure of the cockpit with the dash and footwell lights on. It’s a little blurry, but you get the idea. Man I wish Speedhut would light the hands on the clock! My only negative about their gauges. You can also see the fuel gauge on full. This was before I corrected the calibration.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4156_zpsuwv0bf55.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4156_zpsuwv0bf55.jpg.html)

Next steps are to wrap up the wiring on the corners (Weather Packs, grounds, etc.) and electrical will be essentially finished.

Jereeves

04-29-2016, 03:52 PM

After spending part of my youth laying on my back under a dash, wiring a first gen Corvette for my father, a removable dash seems a luxury I wouldn't want to do without. I know you don't relish taking the dash out again, but think of the alternative of trying to swap out a bad gauge from underneath.

Most GPS systems normally cache the positions of the last satellites they connected to. As long as you have power to the system when it changes locations, startup should be quicker than your initial attempt. (Keep it off a trailer or tow hook and it will work great)

wallace18

04-29-2016, 03:57 PM

You may want to order a reset button for the clock. Unless you want to swap out the cord from the speedo when you need to change the clock. JM2CW. I got one from Speed Hut.

edwardb

04-29-2016, 05:21 PM

Most GPS systems normally cache the positions of the last satellites they connected to. As long as you have power to the system when it changes locations, startup should be quicker than your initial attempt. (Keep it off a trailer or tow hook and it will work great)

Thanks for your comment. I guess I wasn't too clear with what I said. I only mentioned the first time initialization duration because I thought it was quite fast and the system pretty sensitive to get a fix through just my basement window. I've had Garmins (and others) take much longer, especially when they're relocated. Speedhut provides a "hot start" power wire for the GPS which they say draws 25 micro-amps (e.g. almost nothing) and claims 2 second start time. It is saving the current location, as you described. I have this wired on a circuit from the Coyote PDB that is always on as long as the battery is connected. Also have this circuit running the clock.

You may want to order a reset button for the clock. Unless you want to swap out the cord from the speedo when you need to change the clock. JM2CW. I got one from Speed Hut.

I did permanently mount the Speedhut provided cable on the speedo. But I also made two extra cables. I had some Radio Shack momentary pushbuttons and jacks leftover from my last build. One is permanently installed in the clock with the button inside the glovebox. I mentioned it in my post and it's shown in one of the pictures. The other I have as a spare. So no swapping required. Thanks for thinking of me though!

Paul Mischenko

04-30-2016, 01:27 PM

Amazing work congrats. Thanks for the tip with the head lamp, started wearing reading glasses 2 yrs ago and this is a huge help! Cheers

edwardb

05-04-2016, 03:57 PM

Couple cruises the last few days, so have lost some building time. Terrible sacrifice I know... The good news is I’ve now pretty much burned out all my treated winter gas and replaced with fresh. Good old #7750 is running great. Another event this Friday showing our cars at a local vocational school and interacting with the students. Good stuff. What did I do before when I had to work for a living? Anyway, on with the build.

I’ve been working on details getting the last of the electrical mostly finished. The last couple of days have been working on light fixtures. Wouldn’t be a big deal, but I’m doing LED lighting on everything, so some extra work there. First the headlights. I picked up an LED headlight setup from Watson’s Streetworks. They said it would fit right into the FF supplied buckets, and it does. The only thing is the added LED drivers which need to be mounted somewhere. The best seemed to be mounting them on the back of the buckets, so made up some brackets to match. Initially I used nuts and washers on the inside, but changed that to a disk with three tapped holes. Just seems better. The plastic those buckets are made out of is pretty soft.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4157_zpsu4mmbghy.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4157_zpsu4mmbghy.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4163_zpsnnv4ov7j.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4163_zpsnnv4ov7j.jpg.html)

This is with the LED drivers mounted. I had to use larger grommets to get the cables from the drivers to the fixtures. Also in this pic you can see I changed the 3-prong headlight connectors to Weather Packs. That 3-prong connector is normally inside the bucket. Outside I’m not sure it’s up to the elements, so switched them. It was kind of delicate surgery since the gauge of the wire in the LED lights is pretty small. But once I clipped off the connectors shown, I was pretty well committed. I pigtailed larger gauge wire to go to the Weather Packs that is crimped and soldered to the LED leads and then covered with shrink sleeve. Turned out OK, but in hindsight could have just put a big piece of shrink sleeve around the 3-prong connections. Oh well. It's done and do end up with one less connector in the circuits.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4162_zpsjcex2iqy.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4162_zpsjcex2iqy.jpg.html)

These are the actual headlight fixtures. Just playing with them in my basement they are BRIGHT. Huge difference from the standard sealed beam halogens. I measured the current draw and it’s only 1.8 amps per fixture on either high or low beam. Pretty amazing. A single halogen regularly trips the over current protector on the 12 amp power supply I use while building.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4158_zpsqvrdk8m8.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4158_zpsqvrdk8m8.jpg.html)

You can see they have little fans on each bulb. The back of this fan is about 3/4-inch from the back of the bucket. They don’t seem to get warm in the little bit of time I’ve run them on the bench. But I was still concerned that they would be OK in the headlight buckets without any additional ventilation other than what gets in around the front. I checked with Watson’s Streetworks and they said I didn’t need to do anything. They would be fine in the buckets as is.

Next up was the rear license plate mount and light. Here there are two things. One is the world famous Kleiner mod to fit the license plate between the mount and the trunk handle. The other is changing it over to LED lighting along with everything else. I was very fortunate that forum member carlewms posted a very nice solution to do both using LED license plate bolts from SuperBrightLED.com. Ordered the lights and wrapped it up this morning. Perfect! I only made one slight modification. I added some spacers under the lights so they stand up a little higher and get both elements projecting onto the plate a little better. Thanks Carl!

This is the modified fixture with the old removed parts on the left. Minor fabrication to make a new mounting bracket and drill a couple holes. Pretty easy. It’s all up high enough to clear the license plate.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4170_zps9bt5uxk0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4170_zps9bt5uxk0.jpg.html)

Then cut the slot for the license plate in the clear lens. I still need to make the plate that attaches the license plate in the higher position, but I’m going to wait until I actually mount this on the trunk lid along with the handle. That way I can get the exact dimension and make sure the license plate clears.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4172_zps1gsxpayl.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4172_zps1gsxpayl.jpg.html)

Finally, cut down the pigtails on the other six exterior lights and installed Weather Packs. I have LED 1157’s for these fixtures as well, also from Watson's Streetworks. But I’m going to leave them in the wrappers and do the installation and all testing with the incandescents. No point in popping those expensive LED bulbs if I do something dumb. I also have solid state flashers that I’ll put in the fuse panel after everything is done and tested.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4167_zpsv4xftlyj.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4167_zpsv4xftlyj.jpg.html)

I’m in the process of adding grounds to the four corners of the chassis and finalizing the harnesses there. Mostly more Weather Packs. That will just about wrap up all the electrical stuff.

carlewms

05-04-2016, 07:23 PM

edwardb

05-04-2016, 10:01 PM

Lights look great ...

I like the mod to add some spacers under the LEDs on the license plate light ... I will do the same when it comes to mounting on the body.

Which LED headlights did you end up using? It looks like a fan at the end of the light fixture on top of the bulb; is that correct?

Since I decided to use the standard tail lights instead of the rectangular ones I originally mocked up ... what is your setup for the lights since I assume you have high and low available on each LED.

Thanks in Advance,

Carl

The LED headlights are Watson's Streetworks 7" Round H4 LED Headlights, their part number 25101. Yes each bulb has a little muffin type cooling fan in the end. The fan runs whenever the lights are lit. They're pretty low RPM and you can barely hear them.

The 1157 LED replacement bulbs are also from Watson's Streetworks. (4) 25012 red for the back, and (2) 25024 amber for the front. They are exactly like an 1157 with a high and low intensity. They will be wired the same as regular incandescent bulbs. For the back lights, I put the higher intensity brake lights in the top fixtures, the higher intensity turn signals in the lower, and low intensity running lights in all.

I bought their EL-CLP light upgrade package that included the above lights and electronic flashers. The package also included a couple of things I didn't need, but it was cheaper than buying the parts I needed separately. My impression so far is this is nice quality stuff.

Hope that helps, and thanks again for the great idea on the license plate light and mount.

edwardb

05-11-2016, 02:42 PM

I’ve been pretty busy since the last update wrapping up the electrical wiring plus a number of other smaller details. The remaining wiring was mainly the external lighting for the body. Weather Packs were installed all around. Once again it’s really a luxury having #7750 sitting here to get lengths for the pigtails. One of the mods that I’ve done on all my builds was to add a ground on each corner. I saw this first on the Mk4build.com site a few years ago. The RF harness seemed a little sparse for ground connections, and this looked like a good idea. It’s pretty easy. In an appropriate location on each corner, I set a 10-32 rivnut. Then bolt the ground lug in place, and trace around it with a pencil. Then with a Dremel, grind the rivnut so it’s flush and remove the powder coat inside the pencil lines. The wire brush attachment on a Dremel does a nice job of removing powder coat without cutting up the metal underneath. Leaving a nice clean and flat surface. With the ground lug bolted back on, makes a solid ground connection. To wire, bring the RF ground wire to the ground lug. Then add two wires, one for each fixture. This accomplishes at least two things. First, a solid ground connection for the fixtures. Both to the RF harness and directly to the chassis. Second, it provides another ground connection for the RF harness itself. All good. During final assembly, I will encapsulate each of the ground wire bolts and lugs with electronics grade (non-corrosive) RTV.

Another small task for the rear lights is to get one of the light brown running light wires to each fixture. The harness only has one wire. I cut the light brown wire off close to the side of the chassis, cut the loose piece in half, and then spliced them back onto the harness. Now you have a wire for each fixture.

Here are the completed pigtails at the PS rear. Not too exciting. All four corners look similar. It would be easy enough to see from the wire colors, but I put a red dot on the connector that includes the brake light. I will have the brakes in the top fixture, turns signals in the bottom.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4186_zpsziklcnzw.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4186_zpsziklcnzw.jpg.html)

This is the same corner from the bottom, showing the added ground connection. All four are similar.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4195_zps0odey7wr.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4195_zps0odey7wr.jpg.html)

The new body mounts FF is now providing (first time I’ve used them) are handy to get the spacing for the front lights.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4189_zpsdcxhabgr.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4189_zpsdcxhabgr.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4191_zpsvnnqp2v9.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4191_zpsvnnqp2v9.jpg.html)

Here is where I placed the horns. Same location as I’ve used for the last builds. This is the first time I’ve had the FF horns. My basic kits before didn’t include them so I used horns from Harbor Freight. (Don’t laugh. They’re actually pretty decent, and the price is right.) These are loud and sound pretty good.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4184_zpsxlr4vplq.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4184_zpsxlr4vplq.jpg.html)

The RF harness box is handy to hold all the unused wiring stuff. Yep, this is what was removed from the RF and Coyote harness during installation. Some is normal because many wires are purposely provided too long. But some is also due to modifications on my part. Pretty crazy.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4188_zpsbbzzzhaw.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4188_zpsbbzzzhaw.jpg.html)

That’s it for electrical until the engine is in. A few hook-ups there, plus a few remaining minor items like the license plate light and trunk light. But the heavy lifting is done. Everything possible has been checked, and all working. Full disclosure, I did have one electrical problem. The Watson’s Streetworks headlight and turn signal alarm I mentioned previously was wired per their instructions. The headlight portion works fine. But the turn signal alarm didn’t. It works fine when only wired to the turn signals. But with the hazards added through the turn signals, it introduced some crazy backfeeding that it couldn’t handle. Indicator lights were flashing incorrectly, the backlighting on the gauges was flashing, etc. Played around with it for a while, but then just clipped the turn signal alarm leads. I’ll live without that added function. Everything else is solid.

On to a number of other smaller tasks. I re-bled the brakes, after removing and replacing the leaking CNC reservoir mentioned before. I was careful to plug the lines while removing during the changeover, but still thought it best to do the bleeding again just to be sure. I used the pressure method again with the CNC cap. Works great. Got a few bubbles out, but for the most part it was still good. Brakes should now be ready for driving.

I installed the steering column for hopefully the last time. I will need to swing it out of the way to get the Coyote installed, so don’t have the set screws on the upper and lower bearings tightened down yet. But otherwise it’s ready to go. The main thing was centering the rack and then centering the steering wheel. As in past builds, the adapter on the steering rack input shaft wasn’t exactly on the provided flat. Close though. Only about two splines away. I marked the right location and made a new pocket for the adapter set screw with a die grinder. Doesn’t take much. The adapter and set screw received a dose of Loctite and are installed.

edwardb

05-11-2016, 02:42 PM

Another task I hadn’t completed yet was torquing the rear CV axle nuts. I was waiting for the engine/trans/driveshaft to be installed, and then set it down on the wheels while torquing. But since I have the e-brake installed, thought I would try it with the e-brake set. Seemed to handle it quite easily. Per FFR instructions and confirmation found elsewhere by searching, the 2015 IRS axle nuts are set as follows: Torque Stage 1: 98 ft-lbs. (133 Nm). Torque Stage 2: Turn an additional 45°. Called Torque Turn to Tighten (TTT). No mention of Loctite, so none used. I followed the instructions exactly. It's a pretty good tug to get the 45°. Similar to the 250 ft-lbs pull on the front hubs. Whatever, they're tight. When I received my IRS pallet, I found that new axle nuts are supposed to be used for re-assembly. So I ordered new Ford CV6Z-3B477-A axle nuts before my kit was received, and those are the ones I used. The kit though came with new axle nuts. They are slightly different than the Ford ones, although I doubt it matters. I have a spare set that hopefully I won’t need any time soon.

Another thing on my list was the upgraded Koni shocks included with the 20th Anniversary kit. They are Koni 8212 series aluminum bodied externally double adjustable shocks. Very nice looking pieces, to say the least. However, no instructions were received or any recommendations about what settings to use. Searching on-line, I found the following adjustment instructions:

Rebound - Insert a pin into the slotted adjuster located at top eye. Moving the pin from left to right (counter - clockwise) will cause the forces to increase. From the minimum or factory position, there are 12 possible sweeps of adjustment (1 sweep equals 1/4 turn).

Compression - Insert a screwdriver into the lower adjustment device. Turning the screw driver from left to right (clockwise) will cause the forces to increase. From the factory or minimum position, there are 12 possible "clicks" of adjustment.

Since I will be doing mainly only street driving/cruising, I decided to start with each in the minimum position, same as the factory default. I did go around though and confirm all were at this setting. They were.

Yet another task on my list was to provide a locking method for the spinner adapters in the wheels. You don’t have to search very long on the forum to find owners who have had their spinners hang up in the adapters when trying to install or (worse yet) remove. I little bit of lube on the threads is good (I use a touch of anti-seize) but they still can hang up. Some glue the adapters into the wheels with silicone or whatever. However, I prefer a more mechanical positive lock. Set screws and drive pins are commonly used. On my last build, I used 3/4-inch long 10-24 set screws through the wheel hub into the adapters, so repeated the same thing here. It’s a little unnerving (to say the least) to drill and tap those shiny new wheels. But it worked out OK. With this method though I’m matching the adapter to the wheel, so they always need to stay together. My new tires aren’t directional, but the spinners are threaded differently from one side to the other. So now I’m locked in. For those of you new to this, for spinners and adapters, the right hand thread goes on the left side of the car, and the left hand thread goes on the right side of the car. When you tighten the spinner, the top should turn towards the back of the car (drivers side clockwise, passenger side counter clockwise).

First order of business is to get the spinner and adapter assembled confirming the adapter is exactly centered. I found with these wheels, the threads on the spinner and adapter bottomed out without the lug nut covers in place and was still slightly loose. So I made a ring out of .090 aluminum simulating the thickness of the lug nut cover to use while drilling and tapping for the set screw. I used some Gorilla tape to protect the wheel while I was working. Here I’m drilling the #25 hole for the 10-24 tap. 1/4-inch down from the edge seems to be about right. An air drive right angle drill works well:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Wheels%20and%20Tires/IMG_4177_zpszot9ckt1.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Wheels%20and%20Tires/IMG_4177_zpszot9ckt1.jpg.html)

Now tapping the 10-24 threads. I used plenty of cutting fluid and backed the tap out regularly to clear the chips. Not a place I wanted to break a tap! It's tapped all the way through the wheel and adapter.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Wheels%20and%20Tires/IMG_4175_zpsc0gbekcm.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Wheels%20and%20Tires/IMG_4175_zpsc0gbekcm.jpg.html)

With the hole tapped, installed the 10-24 set screws with a good dose of Loctite. Let them set overnight, and then took the spinners off and mounted the wheels on the chassis. Torqued the lug nuts to 85 ft-lbs and installed the covers and spinners. Another item off the list.

I still have some smaller tasks that I can complete. I just checked today, and my new TKO is “1-2 weeks away” from delivery. Cool! Then the engine goes in.

edwardb

05-16-2016, 03:00 PM

Details… that’s what I’ve been working on while waiting for my transmission and final engine installation. This is all stuff I want to get done on the build, and getting it done now means that much less when final assembly and body prep starts. All of these are versions of what I’ve done on previous builds.

First the gas cap. I sometimes attend indoor shows (Autorama, etc.) and these shows typically have a rule that you must have a locking gas cap. I think it’s a good idea anyway. I’ve not had good luck with the locking versions of the usual twist on caps. Didn’t seem to fit all that well or lock very securely. During my first build I discovered the aluminum locking cap that Mark sells at Breeze, his #35317. Nope, not cheap, but super high quality. It perfectly fits into the LeMans gas cap. Like it was made just for it. But it does replace the hose barb on the LeMans cap, so a little work is necessary. The new hose barb is the same 2-inch size as the previous, so no other changes required.

The FF supplied LeMans gas cap comes apart with six small screws in the base. The hose barb needs to be removed from the LeMans cap base, the hole enlarged to fit the new cap assembly, and holes drilled for the mounting screws. Here are before pics:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4196_zpsciuubir0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4196_zpsciuubir0.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4198_zpsozfcuapc.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4198_zpsozfcuapc.jpg.html)

Here is the base ready for the new locking cap. This would be easy to do with a milling machine, but unfortunately I don’t have one. First I cut off the barb with a hack saw. Then cleaned up the cut-off with my disk sander. Then machined out the flange on the inside using a router table. All the woodworkers in the crowd will know what that is. I’ve found that a sharp carbide bit cuts aluminum very nicely if you take small cuts. So I cut about 1/16-inch off the flange at a time free-handing the piece face down on the router table. With most of the material removed, free-handed the final diameter, and cleaned up using a drum sander. It’s not terribly critical since the locking cap fills the hole, but still like to keep it clean. Then drilled the mounting holes and bolted in the cap using the supplied hardware and gasket. It’s necessary to take a few passes with a file around the circumference of the cap to fit perfectly into the radius at the bottom of the base.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4200_zpsuarfbbup.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4200_zpsuarfbbup.jpg.html)

Final product. I cleaned up the LeMans cap a bit before re-assembling. Is it just me, or have these gotten a little rougher over time? The outside is polished up OK, but the inside was pretty rough and the SS lid in the cap had an edge like a serrated knife. Anyway, all done and ready to mount when the time comes.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4202_zpsw3qvarov.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4202_zpsw3qvarov.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4205_zpseyb9jnvg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4205_zpseyb9jnvg.jpg.html)

edwardb

05-16-2016, 03:01 PM

Another detail I like is to tone down the unfinished leather on the door straps and the Simpson lap harness. On my first build, I used black shoe polish, and it wasn’t bad. But another forum member several years ago talked about leather dye and related products from Fiebings. Much better. They are on Amazon and not expensive. Somehow is related to or also sold through Tandy Leather. These are the products I used.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4209_zps6gcjgclo.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4209_zps6gcjgclo.jpg.html)

They’re applied with a wool applicator and it’s very non-critical to use. First the dye. Then the edge coat on the exposed edges of the leather. Then the acrylic top coat. Just a hint. Do not spill the dye! It’s called stain for a reason. It’s instant and permanent. I just happen to know from my last build, with the evidence still on my workbench and floor. This time around, I used a drill press vise as training wheels to hold the bottles while open. Also wore nitrile disposable gloves.

Leather before:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4207_zpsxjdqefa0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4207_zpsxjdqefa0.jpg.html)

Leather after. I like it. Gives a nice finished look to the interior when installed.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_0361_zpsyodi41qi.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_0361_zpsyodi41qi.jpg.html)

In previous updates I showed a dash grab handle. I’ve installed these on each of my builds. I like them because it helps people to stay off the doors and windshield while getting in and out of the car. But for me, it’s also a requirement for my wife. She needs the handle to get in and out because of her arthritis. But just bolting it to the dash isn’t very substantial. On my first build, I came up with a brace method down to the 2-inch dash tube and have now done it the same way several times. I located the glovebox with just enough room at the bottom for the handle and a 3/4 x 1/8-inch steel strip on the back of the dash. Then made small brackets cut from angle iron, and short braces from 3/4 x 1/8-inch steel strip that go from the handle mounting bolts to the brackets attached to the 2-inch dash tube with 5/16-inch nutserts.

Here’s the frame assembly ready to install. I used the powder coat matching LVP rattle can touch-up paint mentioned previously. The handle is from Eddie Marine, their part number 275-24P Grab Handle, Aluminum, Polished.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4212_zpsriactbhu.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4212_zpsriactbhu.jpg.html)

Installed, looking from under the dash. The handle is rock solid.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4234_zpshl10v3zi.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4234_zpshl10v3zi.jpg.html)

Finally, I’ve used charcoal filters on the gas tank vent line for each of my builds. This is to prevent gasoline odors in the garage. Some report no gasoline odors without a filter. Some report gasoline odors even with a filter. I only know I’ve used them on each of my builds and have never had any odors. For my first build, I used a Mustang charcoal filter with the purge valve disabled. They’re not particularly cheap and also not serviceable. Several years ago there were a bunch of forum posts about making your own using aquarium filter charcoal and various containers. Jeff Kleiner showed making a container from PVC pieces, which I patterned mine after. These are standard plumbing pieces from HD or Lowes and dirt cheap.

Here are all the pieces I used to make and mount the filter.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4237_zpsf62dhqzq.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4237_zpsf62dhqzq.jpg.html)

The mounting bracket isn’t necessary, but I like how it mounts the filter with hose clamps and looks somewhat professional. The three PVC pieces are the main body of the filter. The one I use is actually a 2-inch coupler, and then caps for each end with a 3/4-inch hole. One end gets the hose barb glued in for the vent hose, the other end is left open. Two circles of Scotch Brite go in each cap to keep the charcoal pieces inside. The charcoal is from the pet section at Walmart. I glue on one end cap and leave the other end loose. It’s a tight fit also held in place by the large hose clamp. Would be very easy to remove the assembly from the mounting bracket and put in new charcoal if necessary. I have this exact setup on #7750. No odor (yet) since it was first installed. The container of charcoal would probably fill 4-5 times.

Installed on the build. Pretty much unseen once the body and splash guard are installed. But still reachable for service if needed.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4244_zpscknjh00n.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4244_zpscknjh00n.jpg.html)

I have a few more small things to work on. Hoping to get the call for my finished transmission any day now.

Hottrodder427

05-20-2016, 05:14 PM

Ok, so finally to the actual IRS assembly update. Last week I received my upper and lower control arms. I was still missing a few of the bolts, but was able to assemble everything into the chassis using some temporary hardware in a couple places. Everything works, and it turned out great. But a couple things I learned and offer as recommendations. I’ve tried it both ways, and have decided I like to grease these large poly bushing/sleeved joints BEFORE assembly. Once the joint fills with grease and squirts out around the little holes between the bushing and the sleeve, I’m now 100% sure they’re properly lubed. I smear that little extra grease on the bushing end, and it makes it way easier to assemble. For the most part, everything fits really tight. Some adjustment of the tabs might be necessary before anything will go in. I have a big Ford wrench (how many know what that is?) I got from my grandfather that works great for adjusting the mounting tabs. A big adjustable (Crescent) wrench also works. Just make sure the jaws are clean and tight before applying any pressure. Then you won't damage or mark the powder coat. I found the upper control arms especially tight to get in place. A dead blow hammer doesn’t hurt sometimes either. I found those tapered pins I made to install the center section, mentioned in an earlier update, work GREAT for helping to line up pieces as they were getting close. Drive the taper through, everything centers, and then the bolt almost pushes in. I’m saving those things. Also had to adjust the lengths slightly on a few of the supplied sleeves. All pretty normal stuff. I followed the assembly sequence exactly as described in the instructions, and torqued when they said to. The CV axles also went in just the way the instructions said. It took a little bit of a bump with the dead blow to get the inner retaining ring to click into place. Today I received the last pieces of hardware, so installed those and final torqued and marked everything. The only thing remaining is the axle nut. I ran it down with my puny air impact wrench. But I won’t be able to get the final tightness until I have some brakes or the drivetrain installed to hold it. I did make one very small change. When I installed the rear sway bar, the two threaded together rod ends were at a pretty sharp angle vs. straight up and down when the suspension was level. So I trimmed the one longer bushing by 1/8 inch, and added another 1/8 spacer on the other side. Much better. It’s not very much. Maybe just the tolerance of the bends in the sway bar.

I’ve had a couple questions about the two lower cross-axis joints in the Mustang knuckles. They are not replaced, but used as is. The main joint (the rear one) fully pivots and turns. Like a Heim joint. It appears to be a heavy duty and well made piece. The toe arm joint (the front one) is some type of elastomer, and just flexes once bolted down. It’s pretty large and flexible. The instructions clearly state to torque the bolt down with the suspension in the level position. Makes sense. You can feel some resistance from the joint when moving the suspension up and down. The top joint is the bolted in large rod end showing in the pictures, which comes with the kit. Hope this all makes sense. I’m learning about this stuff for the first time.

So here are some pics. Really not much else to say. I think it turned out great and looks really good. Looks an awful lot like what we saw at Factory Five during the open house. But makes a difference when it’s really your car. Everything turns nice and smooth. Just need to remember to add fluid at some point.

Passenger side from rear. Note in all the pictures the suspension is drooping, as it would with the chassis on the lift. The final position is the upper control arm and CV axles level, and the lower control arm pointed slightly down. Note also I haven’t done anything with alignment yet.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3456_zpsvzahpnl1.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3456_zpsvzahpnl1.jpg.html)

Passenger side from front. Note the large adjuster for camber. The toe adjustment is a little harder to see on the inner part of the lowest arm. Note none of these have to be disassembled for adjustment. Just loosen the jam nuts and adjust in place.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3493_zpsj2pi7hlz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3493_zpsj2pi7hlz.jpg.html)

Driver’s side from rear. Looks kind of like the passenger side.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3460_zpszqgjoytm.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3460_zpszqgjoytm.jpg.html)

Entire IRS from back.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3467_zpsjqh4024j.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3467_zpsjqh4024j.jpg.html)

Looking up.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3468_zps5ikptnwr.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3468_zps5ikptnwr.jpg.html)

Closer look at the passenger side from the bottom. Can see the toe arm adjustment a little better here.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3480_zpsrzt17azx.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3480_zpsrzt17azx.jpg.html)

Well that’s it. Pretty cool. Tomorrow I’m going to be finalizing my Coyote engine order. That’s next up.
Hey Edward is there special tabs on the frame for the rear sway bar?

edwardb

05-20-2016, 06:25 PM

Hey Edward is there special tabs on the frame for the rear sway bar?

I assume you mean the inner attachment points for the rear sway bar. There are two brackets that should have come with your sway bar setup. They are held to the chassis by the bolts for the toe arm and the lower control arm. The kit comes with a longer bolt for one. The other is long enough as supplied. I don't remember which is which, but it's pretty obvious when you assemble it. Adding the bracket during IRS assembly is mentioned in the IRS instructions and sway bar instructions. Here is a picture I took showing the added bracket. I had it powder coated. It comes in plain steel.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_0150_zpslldjumio.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_0150_zpslldjumio.jpg.html)

Hottrodder427

05-21-2016, 06:09 AM

Thanks a bunch

edwardb

05-24-2016, 04:55 PM

This isn’t going to be much of an update. But have made a little progress starting final assembly on the drivetrain, so will share. I’m waiting for the call to pick up my TKO600, then it will get really serious. Promised for any day now. In the meantime, I started hanging parts on the back of the Coyote for what I hope is the final time.

I read through a bunch of posts, nearly all saying the stock nodular Coyote flywheel was just fine and use as is. But not being one to leave well enough alone, I still decided to go ahead and spring for the billet steel version. For my mainly street driving, no doubt massive overkill. But that’s what I did. Ford Racing now has a newer lightweight version, part number M-6375-M50, and that’s the one I used. At 20 pounds, it’s 9 pounds lighter than the standard billet flywheel and also SFI rated. The stock nodular flywheel weighs 29 pounds.

First order of business was to remove the stock flywheel, which I would have had to do anyway to install the Quicktime blockplate. In this picture you can see the Coyote crank position sensor and trigger wheel. Found some discussion about this maybe needing to be relearned once the engine is back together. But I didn’t disturb it and the wheel is keyed to the flywheel bolts so it can only go one way. By most accounts, it should be fine with no further actions. Notice also in this picture I moved the homemade engine lift bracket from the rear header location to the back of the head. Early in the build thread I showed the lift brackets I made since Ford no longer provides them or even has them available. For whatever reason, I didn't notice there were lift locations on the back of the PS head. This location is much better and also avoids the PS footbox during installation.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4253_zpsrr4bdloe.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4253_zpsrr4bdloe.jpg.html)

New flywheel in place. I had installed the clutch dowels before mounting here. The usual overnight in the freezer and they drove in pretty easily. I used new flywheel bolts, which is recommended. They aren’t expensive.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4261_zpsqwg4rlkl.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4261_zpsqwg4rlkl.jpg.html)

I chose to use the Ford Racing M-7560-T46 clutch, which is actually a Centerforce dual friction part. It’s no secret. The box, parts, and instructions say Centerforce all over them. By all accounts it’s a good clutch and is the one recommended in the FF Coyote installation instructions. This is the side of the clutch disk that goes against the flywheel. Kind of different.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4263_zpsyunruhs7.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4263_zpsyunruhs7.jpg.html)

Here the clutch disk is on the flywheel using the alignment tool. Not included with this clutch kit, BTW, but I had one on hand.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4262_zps8dgipm8a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4262_zps8dgipm8a.jpg.html)

Clutch assembly complete. New bolts here as well. First time I've seen those counterbalances that Centerforce uses. Also kind of different.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4266_zpsbyalvl8k.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4266_zpsbyalvl8k.jpg.html)

Installed the TOB on the clutch arm and had the bell housing on and off a few times getting the clutch fork pivot ball adjusted to the right height. Once satisfied, locked it down with blue Loctite and a good grunt and put everything together. I’m using Mike Forte’s hydraulic clutch setup, so had previously bolted the pivot block on the end of the clutch arm. Also shot a little Eastwood chassis black on the exposed part of the arm and pivot. Just don’t like bare metal.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4269_zpsx3zkqxiy.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4269_zpsx3zkqxiy.jpg.html)

I can’t bolt it on until I have the transmission, but did a sanity check on the slave cylinder mounting block and pushrod. Looks like it’s going to line up perfectly. Like on my last build, I’m going to hook up the hydraulic line, bleed the system, and confirm proper operation of the hydraulic clutch before the engine is installed. Everything else looks like it’s lining up properly. Now just need to hang the transmission there.

edwardb

05-24-2016, 04:56 PM

Another detail I completed was the Tangent running lights that go into the front oil cooler opening. I’ve used those on each of my builds and like the look and they’re somewhat functional. They do add some lighting for nighttime driving. But mainly I think they make the car easier to see by others. The version they’re selling now is a study in laser cutting. I was going to get the base and brackets for the center SS grille powder coated. But decided just to clean them up and spray with the satin Eastwood Chassis Black I’ve been using for a bunch of other stuff. Then assembled, hooked up the wires, and it’s ready to go into the body.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4270_zpstc1oxa18.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4270_zpstc1oxa18.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4274_zpsiy958plc.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4274_zpsiy958plc.jpg.html)

The light fixtures each have a small 194 style miniature bulb and a high intensity fog lamp style bulb that light separately. I added a 2-way (high-off-low) switch on the dash next to the headlight switch, a relay tied to the headlight switch so they only work when the running lights or headlights are on, a relay for the fog lamps (too much for the switch) and then wiring out to the front of the car.

I’m working on the roll bars and will get those all fitted and ready to go. I’m installing the Tangent hidden mounts for those. But will stop as soon as the phone rings for the transmission.

edwardb

05-27-2016, 05:05 PM

In another build thread, there was discussion about the Coyote dipstick and Moroso oil pan not playing nice together. After further review, I determined mine needed a little rework. So thought I would post about it in my build thread since many are following it and may have the same issue with their Coyote.

The original problem was found a couple of years ago, and discussed in this thread: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/45-ford-modular-engine-roadster-builds/411226-coyote-moroso-oil-pan-problem-too-much-oil.html

It seemed that Moroso fixed the problem, so I was a little surprised to read in a current build thread that there was still a potential problem. I had noticed that the dipstick on mine didn’t go in all that smoothly, especially near the end. But it follows a rather curvey path, so didn’t think anything of it. But based on the recent discussion, decided to investigate further.

Fortunately, my engine is still out of the car and doesn’t have oil in it. So easy to check. I loosened the bolts on my Moroso pan enough to peek inside and see what was happening with the dip stick. Sure enough it was hitting something and deflecting. So I completely removed the pan. I confirmed it does have the oval cut-out discussed in the link above, so it's obviously been updated. But still there was interference and may not read correctly. I put some plumbers putty in the area where it appeared to be hitting, and put the pan back in place. Pushed the dip stick down until it hit, removed, rotated 180 degrees, and back in again. Removed the pan and there were two marks, about 1/4-inch apart. They hit in the area of the oval (barely) but also exactly in the area where the metal baffle underneath crosses into the oval cutout. That was the problem.

I debated just trimming a little off the end of the dipstick since the acceptable range of measurement is actually slightly above this area. But decided to go ahead and clearance the area of the baffle that was hitting so that a stock length dip stick can be used now and in the future. Took about 5 minutes with a Dremel and die grinder, and a lot longer to clean everything up. No place for metal shavings. Put everything back together and the dipstick now drops through the oval cutout.

This is something other Coyote builds that use a Moroso pan should also check. This picture shows where the interference occurs.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_1617_zps6ws9u2sf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_1617_zps6ws9u2sf.jpg.html)

edwardb

06-11-2016, 01:09 PM

Some non-build activity since my last update getting needed things done around the old homestead, plus apparently it was time for my semi-annual back tweak. Barely leaning over to put something in the trash can. Good grief. Don’t get it, but on the mend I think. I’ve gotten another few things off the build list. Some of this stuff is pretty routine, but I know there are first time builders following this thread and have told me repeatedly they like the detail, so here goes.

The replica door latches have a reputation for not being the best quality. This was one of the last items on my backorder list, and Jay told me FF was buying up supplies everywhere they could find them. I’m pretty sure they all come from the same place, and quality is not getting any better. These were the poorest I’ve had to date. Usually there are three different problems. There is a swaged joint inside that likes to come apart, the little knob can fall off the handle, and the pin doesn’t fit well into the catch. Mine had all three problems, plus a lot of flash and just generally poor workmanship. Returning them and getting a different set might be an option, but there’s a good chance they wouldn’t be any better. The good news is they’re not too hard to fix.

There is a well-known mod that’s been posted on the forum. Doors, door latches, hinges, FAQ, FFR FAQ (http://www.ffcars.com/FAQ/doors.html). I completed this mod with one slight difference. I used a shim between the pivot and the handle instead of replacing the wavy washer that was originally there. I happened to find just the right size and thickness in one of my washer junk drawers. Makes the handle a little more solid IMO. For the knobs, I drilled and tapped for a 10-32 x 3/8-inch SS button head through the handle and into the knob. Finally, I used stones on a Dremel and die grinder to open up the hole in the catch enough for the pin to seat properly. I don’t know if they don’t allow for the plating or what, but as delivered the pin would barely go in past the initial taper. This in my experience is why guys have trouble getting the doors to latch or the pin gets stuck in the latch.

Two stories come to mind. The very first time my wife went for a ride in my first build, a Mk3, when we pulled back into the garage her door wouldn’t open. No amount of tugging or banging changed anything. She had to sit there while I removed the cover and took the latch assembly completely off the door in order to get it open. Talk about first impressions! That triggered me to search and do all the mods listed here. Another time I was taking a guy for a ride and helping him strap in. He said this was important to him because the last one he rode in the door flew open around every turn. I assured him that wasn’t going to happen. Just do the mods. Here are pictures of the finished products. Note some guys recommend not replacing the small spring visible here and only using the spring internal to the latching pin. I prefer to use both. Note also the latches come assembled dry with no lubrication. I don't understand that. Use some white lithium or similar when re-assembling. Makes a difference.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4285_zpsrbd4u6vz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4285_zpsrbd4u6vz.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4286_zpszp0auxeu.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4286_zpszp0auxeu.jpg.html)

Next up I worked on the hood scoop. #7750 Mk4 had the fiberglass scoop. This one has the plastic molded version. Certainly less prep and a bit more symmetrical. The main perimeter was in pretty good shape. The lip on the opening needed to be trimmed and sanded. I’m going to bolt the scoop to the hood like #7750 with 10-32 button heads and acorn nuts on the inside. This sort of looks like rivets and is a nice clean way to do it. But all those holes need to be drilled. This spacing closing resembles several originals. Take your time to get them exactly the same distance from the edge all around and the back holes exactly centered side-to-side. If you do stripes, you want the holes to line up with the stripes. Especially the one in the exact center along the back. Don’t just mark the holes and drill them to the final size. Even with a drill press it’s easy for the bit to wander. After marking, I center punch them, and then drill with a pretty small bit. Then check each for alignment to the mark and tweak with a needle file as necessary. Then a bit bigger bit and check again. Adjusting again if needed. Then I drill the final size. Not great pics, but ready to mount:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4289_zpszh0zfxam.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4289_zpszh0zfxam.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4290_zpsxu49ejzg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4290_zpsxu49ejzg.jpg.html)

One other hint about the hood scoop. The FF instructions give dimensions for the hole in the hood, and some guys dive right in and cut the hole based on those dimensions. Some have gotten in trouble doing it this way. There’s a better way IMO. First fit the hood, find the center and where the scoop should be mounted using the provided dimensions, paying attention to the raised areas on the back of the hood. Then drill the holes using the scoop for the layout. Check carefully as you go to keep everything centered. That scoop is pretty flexible. With all the holes drilled, lay out the opening in the hood relative to the holes and following the same curve. Then cut the hole.

Next up I sanded and filled the cracks and voids along the top of both doors with HSRF. Ready for the next level of body work by my painter.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4293_zpsiaxkycsg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4293_zpsiaxkycsg.jpg.html)

I’ve used Herb’s door panels on my last builds. The Anniversary edition kit comes with door panels. FF provided the ones from **********. They’re OK. But with the leather seats, leather dash, planned leather covering on the transmission cover, and the big hunk of leather I have left over, decided to do leather door panels. I could have sent the leather to Herb and he would make them. But since I had all the materials (and the time) decided to take a stab at it myself. I’m shamelessly copying Herb’s standard panels with a center pocket. I cut the backing out of 1/8-inch tempered Masonite. Then, using the same 1/8-inch foam, Weldwood Landau adhesive, and leather as my dash, wrapped the panels. The pros use steam to stretch and shrink around pieces like this. I used a lot of pie cuts (and patience) and they turned out pretty good. I have the pocket pieces ready to install, but need one of the pieces stitched, which I’ll have done at an upholstery shop when I get the carpet binding installed. For attaching them to the doors, Herb uses wide Velcro strips and I’ve added a couple of screws. My wife likes to put a water bottle in her pocket and thought I needed the extra strength. I’m trying some 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener material on these and no screws. Similar to Velcro, but supposedly stronger. We’ll see.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4280_zpsbhh6bijr.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4280_zpsbhh6bijr.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4283_zpsei6ujbxp.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4283_zpsei6ujbxp.jpg.html)

edwardb

06-11-2016, 01:09 PM

I retrieved the trunk lid from where I have the body stored and prepped it for installation. Just a little clean up, and then made a cover for the license plate light access area. Easy enough from .040 aluminum, bent over a post in my basement, and attached with button head screws and nut plates bonded inside with HSRF. This will get painted along with everything else.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4302_zpskzxokfka.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4302_zpskzxokfka.jpg.html)

Here’s where all you guys who don’t like bling just need to look away… Me, I like the bling. I’ve been looking at some custom things I want to do with the coil and intake covers on the Coyote. There are lots of options, including carbon fiber (real and dipped), various colors, body color, etc. But I never could get past the shiny Ford Racing coil covers that FF had on the Anniversary edition prototype. So I treated myself to a Father’s Day present and picked some up. The pictures make them look like black chrome, but they’re not. Regular chrome over aluminum. Very nice pieces. And made in California! At least that’s what’s molded into them on the back. The part number M-6067-50C says they’re for 2011-2014 Coyote, but I tried them on and they fit the 2015 Coyote perfectly. Now to decide what to do with the intake cover. Right now I suspect I’ll be integrating the body color into that.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4297_zpstduwpljb.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4297_zpstduwpljb.jpg.html)

Finally, received “the call” on Friday that my TKO-600 was ready for pickup. Eight weeks almost exactly. Drove across town to Liberty and it’s now in my garage. Whoo-hoo! It has the Liberty upgraded shifter and syncros, plus they machined off the unneeded web mount on the tailshaft. I'm planning to use the rear shift location, but will flip it around like on #7750. Since they had the shifter off to do the mods, they replaced it without any sealant at my request. So it will be easy to change. That's what the hang tag on the shifter says. Unsealed at customer request.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4300_zpsxub2rj4p.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2006112016/IMG_4300_zpsxub2rj4p.jpg.html)

If everything fits as it’s supposed to, next update should be with the engine installed. Now that will be progress.

carlewms

06-12-2016, 05:17 AM

"Now that will be progress." Looks to me that you have had tremendous progress .... looking very nice and very timely for me as well (he says somewhat selfishly).

I am getting ready to do the doors, the trunk cover and the hood scoop.

You mentioned nut plates for the cover on the trunk ... what size and type did you use? The one's I have seen at McCarr state they are for welding but looks like they could be installed with HSRF or similar materials.

Carl

edwardb

06-12-2016, 06:54 AM

You mentioned nut plates for the cover on the trunk ... what size and type did you use? The one's I have seen at McCarr state they are for welding but looks like they could be installed with HSRF or similar materials. Carl

Yes they are "Tab Base Weld Nuts" from McMaster. 10-32 threads. Their part number 98001A125. I rough up the back and also the glass location where they'll be bonded. In this case, I also put a small hole in each end so the HSRF would flow in for an even better grip. Once the cover is bolted on, it wouldn't take much to hold them. But I don't want them falling off during body work and paint. BTW, these are the same nut plates I used to hang the dash and I also use them for the hood handles. Fit nicely between the hood layers for a clean install. Probably a couple other places I'm not thinking of right now. Often work where a nutsert doesn't. Handy little guys.

Stanley Mcclellan

06-12-2016, 07:31 AM

edwardb

06-12-2016, 11:07 AM

I just want to say thanks for all of the ideas and tips you guys have given me on my 2015 Coyote build. I have two 3 ring note books with information all of you have shared. I read this information several times a day as I take breaks. This is a great vehicle for sharing and I have plenty of questions for the future. Hopefully I will also be able to add to the conversation something worthwhile. I received my Roadster (109494) the first of December this past year. I had a deal with my son in law that I would pay the bills and we had to do all the work in my shop. He and my daughter divorced the first week of 2016. Go figure! I have had open heart surgery, two back surgeries and a hip replacement so I work about ten minutes and pet Tucker while looking at your write ups! Tuff getting old! So I had a big investment and no help other than my wife and three daughters to help. The engine, transmission, brake s, fuel line,etc have all been installed. A funny thing happened. I find myself self absolutely enjoying the work and after a few hours I am pretty loose. I love having a reason to put my pants on again! So I have mounted my computer and started on the wiring. I also plan that build another after completion of 109494. This is better than any therapy program for the body or mind. Again, thanks I appreciate your help. I will post pictures as soon as I figure out how to.

Really sorry to hear about what's happened in your family, but it's great the build is something you can enjoy and focus on. Sounds like you're making good progress, and glad the various build threads including mine give ideas and inspiration. I too really enjoy the build process, and this community is the best supporting each other. So carry on! BTW, the number you're citing is from the tag on the front of the car when it was delivered, right? That's probably your sales order number. The actual chassis number that we typically cite (like mine is #8674) is in the Factory Five serial number on your Certificate of Origin and also etched on the 2x2 inch dash tube just by your left knee if you were sitting in the car. Mine is marked F5R1008674RD.

Received your PM and will respond shortly.

aks801

06-13-2016, 02:05 PM

EdwardB: i just yesterday finished going through your build thread for #7750. Really enjoyed it and am stealing some of your ideas for my build plan (for my as-of-yet unpurchased roadster kit).

Now I am going to start going through this build thread for #8674, and I anticipate another enjoyable and enlightening read! I am assuming you are "still having fun"?

edwardb

06-13-2016, 02:27 PM

Duke

06-14-2016, 07:23 AM

Thanks for the details and pictures. This is very helpful for me as I'm just starting the wiring :)

edwardb

06-14-2016, 12:34 PM

I said my next update would be with the engine installed. I guess I lied. Have everything ready to go so thought I would go head and post. This will be short though (for a change).

The TKO-600 slid right in and bolted up perfectly to the Coyote/Quicktime assembly. I torqued the four mounting bolts to the recommended 50 ft-lbs also with a little blue Loctite. Can’t hurt. Also bolted on the Forte hydraulic clutch setup and the rear transmission mount. Not much else to do. It’s ready to go into the chassis.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4306_zpsc0oituv9.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4306_zpsc0oituv9.jpg.html)

One of the things I did with my last build was to test the hydraulic clutch setup before dropping the engine in. This was based on multiple stories of guys struggling to get it working properly and even having to remove the engine to correct. Wasn't interested in that the last time, and not this time either. So I positioned the engine next to the chassis close enough to hook up the pressure line. Put some brake fluid in the reservoir and did the usual pressure bleed using the CNC reservoir pressure cap. It’s a simple circuit and bleeds very quickly. The pushrod needs to be cut to length and I purposely left it slightly long. First tests confirmed it was too long. There was little/no slack with the clutch all the way out. Trimmed about 1/8-inch off and all works perfectly. I tested the clutch engagement by slowly releasing the clutch with the transmission in gear and my trusty pit assistant (my wife, again) turning a spare slip yoke in the output I have just for that purpose. The clutch started engaging right where I expected and was fully engaged soon after. Also confirmed the Coyote “down” switch was closing at the bottom of the travel. The effort of the Ford Racing (Centerforce dual friction) clutch feels similar to the McLeod in #7750. Firm but completely manageable. But hard to tell too much at this point. Anyway, a successful test and ready to go. Drained the fluid from the clutch circuit, gave all the bolts a final tightening, and called it done.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4308_zpsbs6rkvtm.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4308_zpsbs6rkvtm.jpg.html)

This final pic shows several things. First is the extension plate FF provides for the Coyote installation on the transmission mount. Haven’t required this on my previous SBF builds, so obviously the Coyote sits a little bit forward compared to those. Second this shows where I’m planning my shifter. The rear location but in the forward position. A quick tape measure check shows this very likely will put the shifter right on one of the cross braces in the transmission tunnel. We’ll see once it gets installed and decide how to address. Finally, this shows the cover over the external VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) mounting location. The TKO comes with two speed sensor options. This one which requires a sensor to be mounted here or one on the opposite side that is internal and only needs the harness to be attached. The difference is this one can be used with a sensor that also drives an actual speedo cable if you are of that persuasion. Personally, haven’t seen or used a speedo cable in a whole bunch of years. The other side is an electronic only sensor. In my case, I really don’t need either because I have a GPS speedo. But what isn’t 100% clear or some don’t know is that the TKO comes with a rubber plug in this side that is intended for shipping only. If you’re not going to put a sensor there, you need a cover plate with an O-ring like this one from Forte. Tremec also has one. I think there are other brands as well.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4310_zpspiqjdugm.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4310_zpspiqjdugm.jpg.html)

No pictures, but I took the chassis off the lift and it's sitting on the wheels/tires for the first time. It is on vehicle dollies still, but another nice step forward to have it on the ground. As soon as I can muster up a couple helpers, the engine will be going in. Nothing stopping that now. It’s tempting to try it on my own, but I’m not going to do it. Too much at stake and I promised my pit assistant I wouldn’t. :)

jcjorgensen

06-16-2016, 05:15 PM

Can't express how much these forums help.....

Ran across Edwards post #291 and saw the plug for the mechanical speedo and thought, hmmm. When I ordered all my stuff from Mike he didn't mention anything about getting this plug but I didn't realize I needed one so can't blame anyone but me. Heading out for the power tour this week so Monday I decided, well I better get that in the mail and I will install it when I get back. I mean, I have almost 400 miles on the car with the rubber speedo plug and no issues.

Well I met up with the tour in my hometown of Wichita this afternoon, had a blast talking to a couple of the guys at the FFR booth and drooling over their beautiful cars, especially that 33! :) (Next project maybe)

Anyway I return home to pack the car for the final leg of the tour and notice a good size puddle under the car. Well s**t what is that. Sure enough it is transmission fluid so I jack up the car and roll under it to find........the rubber speedo plug gone. And coincidentally while I am under the car the friendly UPS guy comes up and says I have a package, the plug. So clearly I am on someone's good side as this little event would have sidelined me for tomorrow's leg of the tour.

But more importantly, if Edward didn't document things like he does, I wouldn't have been educated about the plug and got it coming in the mail. So simply want to say thank you Edward! Your documentation of your builds enabled me to attain a once in a lifetime memory on the Hot Rod Power Tour!

If I ever get the opportunity to meet you, I owe you a beer or four!

edwardb

06-16-2016, 11:41 PM

WIS89

06-17-2016, 10:05 AM

Paul-

I like your new picture. That badge will look great on the car! Did you have that made up, or did FFR supply that with the anniversary cars?

Regards,

Steve

David Hodgkins

06-17-2016, 10:09 AM

Steve,

Those badges are exclusive to the 20th anniversary cars. Of course, they are merely replicas of the originals...:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=49178&d=1451252630

:D ;)

PS Seriously, The amount of detail edwardb is posting is inspiring. It's got me thinking I'd like to do a Coyote build some day, because I know that type of build has been fully documented thanks to his posts...

edwardb

06-17-2016, 12:18 PM

Paul-

I like your new picture. That badge will look great on the car! Did you have that made up, or did FFR supply that with the anniversary cars?

Regards,

Steve

Hey Steve. Thanks for noticing! As David said, FF supplies the special badges with the Anniversary editions. Played around way too long getting a decent picture of it, doing a few special effects, and then shrinking enough to be my avatar. Still can't get the other forum to take it.

GoDadGo

06-17-2016, 01:14 PM

EdwardB,

Are you going to have enough room to fit the Slave Cylinder?
I had to make a little access panel/dog house for mine, but my drivetrain combo is totally different from yours.

Steve

edwardb

06-17-2016, 02:15 PM

Yesterday my fellow club member, forum member, Anniversary edition owner (15th) and all around good buddy Bob stopped over and the Coyote is now installed into the chassis. I had everything pretty much ready to go. With four hands on it, only took 30 minutes or so. It went in surprisingly easily. Tight but all good. I used homemade lift plates attached to the standard Coyote lift locations and an engine load leveler attached to my HF 2-ton shop crane. No matter how much I tried, using these lift points and even with the leveler, couldn’t get the rear of the engine tipped down too much. So I put a lifting strap around the tail of the TKO, down under the cross 4-inch chassis tube, and attached to the shop crane. Using the ratchet on the lifting strap, it was possible to control the angle of the engine without a lot of pushing. Worked quite well. Another tip I’ve learned from doing several of these is that I find it way easier to have the chassis on vehicle dollies and move the chassis around for the engine install instead of the shop crane. It pushes much easier (especially until the engine is installed) and you can move it around small amounts with a lot of control and without the engine swinging around on the end of the shop crane.

One of the challenges with a Coyote is how tight the DS exhaust header bolts are to the DS footbox. Access is really right. I had an idea to bolt the DS header in place during the engine installation, e.g. once the engine was far enough in to get the header under the 3/4-inch tube then mount the header while there is still some additional room. The idea had one major flaw though. Even though I had the steering column disconnected at the rack and moved out of the way (the Coyote won’t go in with the column attached to the rack) it was still in the way for the header installation. I was finally able to get the header to seat with the engine hovering 1-2 inches over the chassis mount. Better than nothing, but still tight. After some initial messing around (and frustration) found if I removed the motor mount from the engine nearly all of the bolts were accessible from the bottom. So that will be my strategy from the start the next time around. I used Remflex gaskets on the headers and a combination of studs on the hard to reach locations and cap screws for the balance. Really hope that’s all set for a real long time. PS header added after the engine was in its final location. Pretty easy to reach all the bolts on that side. As you'll see in the pics I had to swing the brake and clutch reservoirs out of the way. Other than those and the steering column, everything else cleared. Unlike the previous SBF installs, once the motor mount bolts were lined up in their locations on the chassis, the engine dropped right into place with one push. No rocking, pulling, bad language, etc. as with getting the SBF's to drop into place even with the motor mounts quite loose.

I used Whitby 3/8-inch spacers under both motor mounts. It’s very close to level, with the PS being just slightly lower than the DS, assuming the bottom of the engine and Moroso pan are level indicators. Having just one spacer on the DS as FF recommends would have put the engine quite out of level IMO. Just not getting that one. Head clears the PS footbox by an inch or so. Only about 1/4-inch on the DS footbox. But it clears. With the transmission frame installed, determined I need a 3/4-inch spacer under the rear transmission mount. I’ll make one up. This puts the pinion angle at just over 1 degree and brings the rear of the oil pan right at the bottom of the 4-inch chassis tubes. With the GP headers on and now the GAS-N side pipes mocked into place, pipe alignment looks pretty decent. Side-to-side height and distance from the frame rails is very similar. Way closer than my previous builds. Looks like I will need a little bit of wedge on the DS. But all in all, looking good. For all you builders aligning headers and side pipes for the first time, this can be pretty frustrating and takes up lots of forum bandwidth. This is one of those areas you can’t measure with a micrometer. Use a tape measure and level, and then put those away and use your eyes. Even at best, they’re not going to be exact. Keep in mind you can’t see both sides at the same time. Within reason and any differences will not be noticeable.

Started adding a few parts. Starter went in fine and my carefully measured and located starter wires fall onto the two starter threaded posts OK. (Whew) Oil filter goes in and clears the 4-inch chassis tube very nicely. Started looking at routing for the balance of the engine harness and the O2 sensors. Looks like all will be OK, but more work to get the best routing and hidden as much as possible. Everything on the firewall clears the engine just fine (fuel regulator, fuel lines, power distribution box and harness) and doesn't look nearly so busy now with that big chunky engine blocking the view. Checked the shift location and I'll need to move (or remove) one of the cross braces in the transmission tunnel if I want to use the forward location in the rear of the TKO. Also checked the FF supplied driveshaft, and looks like it's the right length.

Here are some pictures. Lots of stuff to be added still, but most everything I’ve had mounted during mock-up, so hopefully should go quickly. First start can’t be too far away.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0447_zpscwlyh5ob.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0447_zpscwlyh5ob.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0448_zps8mw6hkhu.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0448_zps8mw6hkhu.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0449_zpso5yue5xe.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0449_zpso5yue5xe.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0452_zpsy8yviawa.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0452_zpsy8yviawa.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0455_zpsmiixgfin.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0455_zpsmiixgfin.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0462_zpsx6rfquny.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0462_zpsx6rfquny.jpg.html)

edwardb

06-17-2016, 02:15 PM

All in. Now just need to add everything else back.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0466_zps08uru0sf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0466_zps08uru0sf.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0467_zpscz8arbyl.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0467_zpscz8arbyl.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0468_zps7a0sla3k.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0468_zps7a0sla3k.jpg.html)

edwardb

06-17-2016, 02:17 PM

EdwardB,

Are you going to have enough room to fit the Slave Cylinder?
I had to make a little access panel/dog house for mine, but my drivetrain combo is totally different from yours.

Steve

No issues. The clutch slave cylinder and related parts/bracketry are pretty much hanging in space on the driver's side bottom.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0393_zpsclrvelb3.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0393_zpsclrvelb3.jpg.html)

edwardb

06-19-2016, 03:57 PM

This will be another brief update. Time to prep for London and then away for four days at the event. So there won't be much progress to report for the next week or so. I was going to finish the engine installation and get ready for first start and go-kart with the chassis on the vehicle dollies. But after a day or so of crawling around on the ground, decided to put it back on the lift. I am officially completely spoiled. But it’s a big difference and my back thanks me.

Since the last update, installed the driveshaft and it fits perfectly. Also confirmed I’m going to use the rear TKO position turned toward the back. On my last build I turned it around in the rear position, but as I suspected, in this case that puts the shifter directly on the tunnel cross brace. But because the TKO sits 1-1/2 inches or so closer to the front with a Coyote versus the SBF, the shifter using the same ********** 427 shifter as my last build ends up in exactly the same position that I find very comfortable. So I’m good with that. I’ve started working on routing all the last wires as well as the O2 sensors and engine ground straps. Nothing too exciting, just need to get through it. Trying to keep everything as neat and hidden as possible. This is where it sits right now:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4323_zps1wsizdek.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4323_zps1wsizdek.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4325_zpsvqthmxxh.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4325_zpsvqthmxxh.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4327_zpsyiec87ll.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4327_zpsyiec87ll.jpg.html)

Looking forward to the London show, as always. As of now, the weather looks pretty promising. Hope to see some of you there. I’m also looking forward to seeing the 001 20th Anniversary raffle car. Maybe I’ll get a few last minute build ideas.

RRussellTx

06-19-2016, 07:17 PM

Looking good!
Ask them about the matching paint job on the Rousch Coyote engine covers for 001. Nice looking touch and a pretty good story too.

Georg

06-21-2016, 12:09 AM

Hi Edward,
It's always nice to read your comment: "...nothing too exciting..." . I can tell you I'm getting really exited every time I see you have and update to your build. If my boss would know how much time I spend to read and learn here... As your 7750 build this one is as well just so cool, I love it! Keep on going the updates but first enjoy London this weekend!
Georg

Brett33

06-21-2016, 02:33 PM

thank you for reminding me to buy a raffle ticket.

I don't know why i chanced it waiting so long.

brett

wareaglescott

06-22-2016, 07:26 AM

edwardb

06-22-2016, 10:20 AM

Looking great! Do you happen to have a photo looking down at the transmission tunnel that shows how the cross bracing lines up with the transmission? I am curious to know more about the potential interference at various shifter locations.

Here's a couple pics from this AM. Ignore the wood blocks while I'm finishing up the transmission spacer. First pic shows the location of the rear and mid shift locations compared to the tunnel cross braces. This is specific to the Coyote/TKO installation. In the rear location, the red plate can be switched around, but as you can see would be directly on the brace.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0401_zps33vzz9mg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0401_zps33vzz9mg.jpg.html)

But as I mentioned before, turns out this shift location is exactly the same as #7750 with the plate switched around because the Coyote/TKO sits forward of the SBF in #7750. Here is a pic also from this morning showing where the shifter falls. Note this is a ********** 427 shifter, not the stock FF shifter. In this configuration, the shift ball is exactly 8-inches from the dash while in neutral. This location fits me perfectly. Sitting in the seat (yes I set it there temporarily and didn't make engine sounds...) my hand falls right on the shifter. The motion is almost completely front to back vs. up and down. Note also it's very close to where a straight shifter would be in the mid shift location.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0402_zpsgysh8rf1.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0402_zpsgysh8rf1.jpg.html)

edwardb

06-22-2016, 12:06 PM

I’ve had a little time to keep working while getting ready to leave for London, and thought I would share what I think is pretty important. I have Mike Forte’s hydraulic clutch setup for the Coyote/TKO combination as mentioned before. For the connection between the master and slave, Mike provides a -3AN SS hose with a straight fitting on one end and a right angle fitting on the other. The slave has a straight fitting, and he provides an aluminum right angle fitting for the 1/8-27 NPT outlet on the master. So this week I was finalizing these connections. The right angle hose connection works best at the slave, so I was left with using the straight hose connection to the right angle fitting on the master. Because of the limited space, it’s necessary to properly orient the right angle fitting. In doing so, I needed to move it “just a little more” (you know where this is going…) and it was immediately clear that I had stripped something. It's not that fragile. I just was way too heavy handed. Took the fitting out, and the threads were completely gone from the right angle fitting and pretty banged up inside the Wilwood master. Given the location of the master in the footbox, it would not be easy to change later and certainly don’t want any brake fluid leaking in there. So I felt I had no choice but to start new with both pieces. For me, the price of mistakes always starts at about $100, and this one looked to be no different. But I think the story has a happy ending.

The master I received from Mike is a Wilwood 260-10376 1-1/8 diameter piece. In looking at a replacement, noted they come in sizes started at 5/8 inch and up. When I mocked up the hydraulic clutch before, as I noted, everything worked fine. But I did notice with the clutch pedal all the way to the floor, the CNC slave moved further than it probably should. The piston was starting to come out the end. Not far enough to completely come out, but further than the rated approx 1-1/8 max movement it’s supposed to have. I rationalized this as “OK” since the footbox doesn’t have carpet yet so that will limit it a little. Plus I typically wouldn’t push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor since the clutch was fully actuated well before that. But since I had to replace the master, it occurred to me to use a smaller size to eliminate a possible problem with the slave plus that could reduce pedal effort. So after some searching and attempted calculations (not too conclusive for me anyway…) I decided to try a 1 inch master. Wilwood 260-10375. At the same time, looked for a different fitting and found Wilwood 220-6956. Straight (vs. right angle) and also steel (vs. aluminum). Parts arrived from Summit in their usual ridiculously fast way. I have them installed and this morning bled and tested with the new master. The straight fitting routes much better. The effort is significantly less. Clutch engagement is also exactly how it should be. Huge success!

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4329_zpsixsj0wkh.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4329_zpsixsj0wkh.jpg.html)

Kind of how it works with these things. Every build is a combination of parts and they all work together a little differently in each. So why 1-1/8 inch master in #7750 and 1 inch worked so much better here? Take a look at these two pictures:

#7750 with SBF, Quiktime bell and TKO. I added spacers to align the slave with the pivot:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0117_zpsaaa6a865.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Engine/IMG_0117_zpsaaa6a865.jpg.html)

Current build with Coyote, Quicktime bell and TKO. Completely stock as received from Mike:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4308_zpsbs6rkvtm.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4308_zpsbs6rkvtm.jpg.html)

Not exactly hard to figure out. The clutch arm pivot point is closer to the TOB on the new build. It's more pronounced than the angle of these pics show. Therefore requiring less movement so the 1-inch master with less movement and resulting reduced effort was the right choice. Something to look at for those of you considering this setup. I’m sure Mike would send a 1-inch master vs. the 1-1/8 if you request when ordering.

Since I’m updating, might as well show a progress report. Stuff is going in pretty quickly as suspected. Steering column completed and locked down. Power steering all installed and primed. No leaks yet. Hopefully stays that way. Cooling system all installed. Did have to change the upper half of the lower radiator hose from what I originally mocked up. I just wasn’t happy with how much the hose I had needed to bend (and kink…) to get to the Coyote connection. Turns out a piece of the 2015 Mustang hose included with the controls pack worked much better. Last night I made the 3/4-inch transmission spacer. $8 dollar piece of 1-1/4 x 3/4 x 12 inch chunk of 6061 from McMaster with two 1/2-inch holes on 5-9/16 centers and a little paint and it’s ready to install. Mainly just need to finish up the wiring, add some fluids, and it should be ready for first start. With everything connected, I did power up the car and the throttle body initialized with a couple chirps and moves when the DBW accelerator is pushed. Cool! Here's what it looks like now. The engine compartment is certainly filling up. Saving those shiny coil covers I showed before until final assembly.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0397_zpsgbkbw79a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0397_zpsgbkbw79a.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4330_zpsg98ezdfs.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4330_zpsg98ezdfs.jpg.html)

Final comment. Maybe some of you saw that Courtnie from FF posted a notice that FF now has updated Coyote installation instructions for the 2015 Coyote. I requested and received a copy and had a chance to study for a bit. It’s not a separate version. They added 2015 to the current version and then call out where there are differences. The good news is I didn’t find anything that I would do differently. They mounted the PCM in the same place I did with a similar looking panel. They made up some pieces so that the provided top and bottom clutch switches can be used. Nice, but specifically for the cable version. Still on your own if you do a hydraulic clutch. They note the speed dial is not needed, so again confirmation about that. They didn’t go into any detail about where to mount the 2015 PDB. Only to mount it per the Ford instructions. There is one picture that makes it look like the harness is going behind the dash. But nothing else. I’m still satisfied that I put mine on the firewall in the engine compartment. I just don’t see it behind the dash except maybe with a firewall forward mod. Also depends on what you want to do with heat, A/C and a glovebox. They are now showing using spacers on both motor mounts. Not just the DS as before. Nice they take the motor mount apart and add thicker pieces inside vs. using a separate spacer. Going to look into that. They also take a slightly different direction with the power wiring and start circuit than I did. But definitely this is a must read for all 2015 Coyote installations, and much like the previous version, everyone may have a slightly different take on what works best for them.

Ok, that’s really it until after London. Load up #7750 in a bit and off in the AM.

wareaglescott

06-22-2016, 12:31 PM

Thanks for the transmission picture. Just what I hoped to see.

edwardb

06-29-2016, 04:47 PM

Today was finally the day. This morning I finished all the last bits of wiring. Then filled all the fluids, put gas in the tank for the first time, and ran out of excuses. I did turn it over a few times with nothing switched on and just jumped the two terminals on the starter. Wanted to confirm the starter worked, meshed OK, plus circulate some oil. Worked as expected.

Next I wanted to set the fuel pressure regulator. The Aeromotive instructions say to turn on the ignition, and with the fuel pump running, set the regulator. The Coyote instructions say “Set regulator to maintain 55 psi delta fuel pressure across injector (55 psi at fuel rail with engine off).” When I turned on the key, the fuel pump started. But only ran a few seconds and then shut off. I could hear a relay in the Coyote PDB click, obviously cutting the voltage because immediately the relay in the RF fuse panel also clicked. This is not what I was expecting. I thought the pump would run continuously. After trying it a few more times with the same result, I checked the gauge on the regulator and it was showing 40-50psi (didn’t look real close) so clearly the pump was working and I had pressure in the lines. There must be a pressure sensor of some type in the fuel system and it's shutting down the pump when pressure achieved.

I wasn’t sure what to expect, but did go ahead with the first start. With the video running, pushed the clutch in and turned the key. The engine started almost immediately. Crazy. Thinking maybe something wasn’t right with the fuel system, I thought it might start and then stop, but it didn’t. I was intently watching the gauges, and noted I had good oil pressure, the voltage was 14+ so the alternator was working, and the tach was working. Yeah! That was probably the one I was most worried about. I still can’t believe Ford didn’t include a tach connection in the 2015 controls pack. But the single wire connection to one of the coil on plug wires and the proper calibration as described by Speedhut works! I detailed this earlier in the build thread. So without further ado, here is the first start video. Note you can hear how long the fuel pump runs when the key is turned on:

https://youtu.be/XZwCmZg0qz0

After the first start, I checked everywhere for any leaks or anything that didn’t seem right. Nothing. All looked perfect. Started it a couple more times and noted the temp gauge was starting to move. Then took another video, this time hitting the throttle a few times. I found it a little interesting that the accelerator pedal (DBW) at first seem a little sluggish and even a bit delayed. But the more I ran the engine, it became more sensitive and now feels quite normal. I don’t know if this was just the engine warming up or maybe part of the learning process by the PCM. The cooling fan came on near the end of this video (more wiring confirmed) although the temp gauge was only indicating 65-70C. These aren’t really related since the gauge is reading the Speedhut temp sensor and the Coyote PCM “infers” the temperature based on several sensor inputs. So kind of different but as I understand most likely normal. I'm trusting the computer to know when the fan should run.

https://youtu.be/qXwz4C-OVws

Finally took one last video this time from the driver’s seat and scanning the instruments. The engine sounds strong, to say the least. Couple of throttle hits and still only peaking at 3,500 rpm or so. Interesting to see how much the oil pressure swings when doing that.

https://youtu.be/MGiRDLwrwrU

Not much else to add. While it was running, I clicked through all five gears with the back wheels spinning away. All seems normal. Also while it was running went back to the fuel tank and confirmed the fuel pump was indeed running. Kind of a no-brainer since the engine wouldn't run long if it weren't, but I was happy to hear it humming away in there. After I shut things down, checked everything over and not a drop of fluid or any problems noted (so far...). Just need to figure out how I’m supposed to set the fuel regulator. Next step will be to drop it on its wheels and do a quick/rough alignment. Then it should be go-kart time. Woo-hoo!

dmoran

06-29-2016, 05:10 PM

Beautiful! Sounds as good as it looks! Congratulations

wareaglescott

06-29-2016, 07:20 PM

Awesome! congrats

Duke

06-29-2016, 08:39 PM

Oh yea...
http://i1052.photobucket.com/albums/s444/soulsea1/Random/tumblr_m26er3nhka1qlz5jj_zps81683d46.gif (http://s1052.photobucket.com/user/soulsea1/media/Random/tumblr_m26er3nhka1qlz5jj_zps81683d46.gif.html)

RRussellTx

06-29-2016, 09:15 PM

Very cool!! Congrats!!

2bking

06-29-2016, 11:53 PM

Congratulation, seems uneventful like most other Coyotes. My fan comes on at 180*F (82*C) and the oil pressure is 100 psi until the engine warms up and then drops to about 30-40 psi while idling. The cycling fuel pump is something new apparently in the 2015 PCM. The Quiet pipes exhaust sounds mellow, very good manners, similar to the Flowmaster Slimlines I have on mine.

edwardb

06-30-2016, 08:26 PM

Couple final details and updates after yesterday’s successful first start.

Regarding the fuel pump behavior I described, I've heard from other Coyote owners and this is new for the 2015 version. The crate motor Coyote installation is a return style fuel system compared to the returnless system used on factory Mustangs. So there’s no issue with the fuel pump running continuously like the 2011-2014 Coyote crate version. But clearly Ford decided to change things with the 2015 version. According to the controls pack instructions, there is no active fuel rail pressure sensor. So I’m guessing it’s a timing thing. If the engine doesn’t start within a certain duration the fuel pump is switched off. However they’re doing it, makes it a little difficult to adjust the regulator as described in the Aeromotive instructions with the pump on and the engine not running. I thought about temporarily hot wiring the fuel pump. But I was able to set the regulator pressure by watching the gauge during the short time the pump runs and making repeated adjustments until it was at the recommended 55psi setting before it shut off and started bleeding back down. I later confirmed it was indicating exactly 55psi while running. For now, I consider this closed.

I did spend a little time today with the chassis up on the lift looking at everything, checking for any leaks, topping the fluids where necessary, etc. Everything looks good. Of course I’ll continue to keep an eye on it, but nothing at this point that needs any attention. I resisted the temptation to start it again and rev the engine some more. But it wasn’t easy. I did add an ounce (the recommended amount) of Stabil 360 to the 5 gallons of fuel I put in the tank. That fuel will probably be in there for 6-8 months at least before the build is done and the driving season begins. Seemed like a prudent thing to do.

A detail I didn’t quite completely finish before the first start was the O2 sensors. As I’ve described previously, the 2015 Coyote has the O2 sensor connections as part of the engine harness. They are not part of the crate motor controls pack harness like the 2011-2014 version. So you’re pretty much stuck with where they’re located on the engine. The DS (LH) is low under the header close to the oil filter and engine mount. The PS (RH) is high at the rear outer corner of the head. Ford provides two different length O2 sensors:

FR3Z-9F472-E (DY-1346) long lead for the left side in a Mustang
FR3Z-9F472-C (DY-1308) short lead for the right side in a Mustang

I can’t speak for the FF shorty headers and J-pipe setup. But for the straight tube GP Headers I’m using, the FR3Z-9F472-C (DY-1308) short lead is IMO too short for either side. It could maybe be used on the DS, but it would be pulled quite tight and low over the header. However, the FR3Z-9F472-E (DY-1346) long lead is a workable length for both sides. Plus it has a nice insulated sleeve on the lower half, right where it’s above the straight tube headers. As I also described before, I received one of the early 2015 controls pack and the O2 sensors provided didn’t match the engine harness. So Ford sent me a pair of the O2 sensors described here. A month or two later, I received another box from Ford that they apparently sent to all 2015 Coyote crate motor buyers that had another set of O2 sensors, plus some other various parts like upper and lower radiator hoses, etc. So I had two sets of O2 sensors, and pretty easy decision to use the two long ones for this build. For other builders who aren’t so lucky, two choices. You can get an extension and use the shorter O2 sensor. Or you could pony up and buy a second FR3Z-9F472-E (DY-1346). They’re in the $40-50 range.

Here are pictures of the installed O2 sensors. This is the driver’s side. You can see the connection just behind the alternator. The cable has a nice plastic clip with a mounting hole that you can slide where you need it. It’s not visible in this picture, but it’s being held to the underside of the 3/4-inch tube with one of my trusty 10-32 nutserts and flange bolts that I installed today.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4334_zps2mp1rnf6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4334_zps2mp1rnf6.jpg.html)

This is the passenger side. You can just see the retaining clip, also being held with a 10-32 nutsert and flange bolt. The second pic is where it comes up over the PS footbox and attaches to the connector. My OCD side would like it to be just slightly longer so it dropped over the corner of the footbox. But I’ll live with it like this.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4332_zpsisywpedw.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4332_zpsisywpedw.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4335_zpszlkv78xi.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4335_zpszlkv78xi.jpg.html)

A lot of forum talk is about build budgets. Over the last couple weeks, as I was procuring and installing all the necessary fluids for this build, it occurred to me I bet most don’t realize just how expensive this chemistry set on wheels can get. This is all the stuff I gathered:

(2) quarts Motorcraft synthetic diff lube
(1) 4 ounce bottle Motorcraft friction modifier
(9) quarts Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-20 synthetic motor oil and filter
(3) quarts GM Synchromesh 88900333 transmission fluid
(15) quarts Peak anti-freeze. (Yep, that’s how much it took)
(32) ounces (2-1/2 bottles) Honda mineral based power steering fluid
(2) 32 ounce bottles DOT 3/4 Valvoline synthetic brake (and clutch) fluid

I haven’t added up the cost, but at least several hundred dollars right there. Good thing most of it has a pretty long service life, especially in my relatively low mileage street driven cruiser.

Finally, I just couldn’t help dragging out one of the shiny coil covers and also snapping on the intake cover to see what the final engine will look like. It will look a little better with the body on to take the back and sides out of the sight lines. But it’s going to be OK I think. Still thinking to do something with body color on a portion of the intake cover.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4336_zpsz4s5vnd4.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_4336_zpsz4s5vnd4.jpg.html)

Tomorrow it’s coming down off the lift and I’ll work on ride height and alignment. Then go-kart time.

Paul Mischenko

07-01-2016, 12:52 AM

Amazing. I can't wait till i get to the first start stage. I can only imagine what a great feeling. Congrats.

edwardb

07-02-2016, 02:04 PM

Spent yesterday wrapping up the final details for the go-kart. Dropped the chassis off the lift and onto its wheels for the first time. Found the place that mounted my tires had them at 40psi. So backed them down to 22 front and 24 rear. Then set ride height. I left it about 1/2-inch high front and back. Normally ride height will settle a little, plus still a few hundred pounds to go with the body and related.

Then I took my first pass at front and rear alignment. I haven’t done an IRS build before, so this was a first. The new 2015 Mustang IRS is easy, as I understand, compared to the former T-Bird version. Nothing to take apart. Loosen two lock nuts to adjust camber, and two more to adjust toe. They do interact a bit, but generally was pretty easy. The specs are camber: -0.5° to -0.75° and total toe: 1/8-inch toe in. Probably the biggest challenge was to get my Fastrax camber/caster gauge to fit onto the new wheels. The large radius on the wheel lip is cool looking, but doesn’t give much to hang onto. I figured out a way and got the rear alignment set. Then moved to the front. Here I was shooting for camber: -0.5°, caster: +8°, and total toe: 1/16-inch toe in. Note the higher caster number is possible with power steering. Manual steering would be lower. Took a couple hours because they were pretty far off from the build and they all interact to some extent. But got them real close I think. I was happy to get the higher caster number without having to modify the rear adjuster on the UCA. I’ve read where some had to shorten it a bit. In addition to the Fastrax tool, I use Heidt’s steel toe plates and a magnetic laser level. The combination of toe plates and the laser level replaces the use of strings that a lot of guys do.

Couple other quick comments. I’ve noticed after starting the Coyote now a number of times that in addition to it starting almost immediately, the ignition key start position initiates the start sequence as soon as you turn the key. And it’s not necessary to hold the key in start until the engine is running. Basically it works just like a start button, which of course us how a Mustang is set up. Note this is only the case if using the Coyote controls pack start function and wire to the starter. The updated Coyote instructions from FF show using the RF harness for the ignition key and starter. It would work in the more traditional manner. Also, just for grins I plugged my Innovate LM-2 into the ODB port just to see if it worked (it does) and what I could read. There is a ton of stuff, and lots more to learn about there. But what I did note was three ODB trouble codes. I looked them up. One was related to engine temp and sensor, the other two were bank 1 and bank 2 intake manifold runner controls. I cleared the codes, and ran the engine several times and no codes noted. After my go-karts this AM, where it probably ran 30 minutes or more, also still no codes. So maybe those were from sometime during the engine install where the PCM was powered up but not everything was hooked up yet. But I’ll keep an eye on it. I have the Coyote check engine light as an indicator on my dash, and it hasn’t lit yet.

OK, so on with the go-kart. Really nothing earthshaking to report. Everything seems to be working OK. The GPS speedo is working and I’m now showing .7 miles on the odometer. That’s just going up and down a side street maybe 6-8 times. The clutch engagement is in just the right place and the pedal force is smooth and relatively light. That 1-inch clutch MC is perfect. Just the slightest amount of clutch chatter while starting out. But that’s maybe me getting used to it plus I was being very gentle with the throttle. The manual Wilwood brakes are OK, but clearly need to be bedded and broken in further. The accelerator (DBW) felt quite normal. I have heard from others there is a delay when pushing in and releasing. But I’m not noticing that at all. Feels pretty direct to me. Power steering works very well and maybe is a bit light. But we'll see after real driving. Easy enough to adjust by changing a valve on the KRC pump. I only used 1st and 2nd, and max speed according to the GPS speedo memory was 27 mph. So not exactly killing it. Speed limit in our sub is 25, plus just taking it easy and trying not to attract too much attention. The main takeaway from the entire experience was those sticky Goodrich tires were pelting me with every manner of small stones from the street. The trunk and cockpit are full of them now. Next order of business will be to get out the shop vac.

This is the very first drive after backing out of my driveway. I was obviously being very gentle getting the feel for things and making sure all worked OK:

https://youtu.be/tHi0rsHEoas

Took it up a notch the second time around:

https://youtu.be/G-JP9hmSwis

And maybe just a bit more this time. Still baby steps though.

https://youtu.be/I55VraeTBU4

I can tell the Coyote is going to be very responsive and strong. It certainly has a different sound than previous SBF builds. Just a couple more details and I’ll be starting body work and install.

BobCarter

07-02-2016, 09:13 PM

Sweeeet! Great job Paul

edwardb

07-04-2016, 03:29 PM

Beautiful 70+ degree and sunny day here in Michigan. Just for grins, got out the trailer and took the new build to a July 4th cruise-in today instead of driving #7750 like we normally do. I knew there would be a number of our local club members in attendance, and thought they would be interested in seeing the progress. Spent the three hours talking nearly non-stop to many attendees. Not many get to see a build at that stage, so they were very interested. Talked to several people who were seeing Factory Five for the first time. They were very impressed. Continue to be amazed at how that Coyote runs.

One of our club members told people my snake was shedding its skin. Clever. :rolleyes:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0414_zpsukyltost.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0414_zpsukyltost.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0415_zpsezgttgrd.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0415_zpsezgttgrd.jpg.html)

Bill Waters

07-04-2016, 07:12 PM

Fantastic; well thought out and solid work all the way through!

Do you mind telling me your source for the little nylon mounting blocks which are used on your 3/4 tubes throughout your build to cable-tie electrical loom and other things to the tubes? Looks as though the blocks might attach with a rivet in the center or similar. Pardon me if you have already mentioned this.

Thanks,
Bill

Duke

07-04-2016, 07:42 PM

edwardb

07-04-2016, 08:13 PM

You're not the first to ask me about those. They are Avery Dennison #10045 Cable Tie Mounts. I got them from McMaster, their part number 7566K13. Comes in a bag of 100, so you'll have plenty for the next build. I anchor them with 3/16 inch aluminum rivets. The hole in the mount needs to be drilled out just slightly. Depending on the specific 3/16 rivet, some will drop down into the countersink. Others need to be adjusted. If so, I put them in the drill press, and with it turning a couple swipes with a file and they fit perfectly. I usually make up 10-20 at a time, and just have them available. Makes a really clean and strong installation.

See above.

Yes, that's what I've posted before. Still the parts I would recommend, but one comment. I had a local builder ask me about these and ordered/received them since I received mine a little over three years ago. I learned the Avery Dennison #10045 part number has apparently changed slightly since then. It has the same cable and tie capacity, and is still for a #8 (roughly 3/16-inch) screw. So will still work OK. But the overall part is slightly smaller and the head of a 3/16-inch rivet may need to be trimmed more than I described before. Maybe a 1/8-inch rivet would be OK?

Duke

07-04-2016, 08:18 PM

^^ Funny you mention that. I almost added to my post that I found that 1/8" rivets work very well with the ones I have. I did have to get a round head rivet tool because the hex head one I had didn't let the rivet seat all the way down into the plastic clip. I used Stanley rivet tool mr77c (from local Ace Hardware) and found it works perfectly with them.

edwardb

07-09-2016, 08:16 PM

While the Coyote seems to start and run perfectly, one thing I had noticed was that the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Light) did not appear to be working properly. I called Ford Racing tech support. But Ray, the person they thought could help, was on vacation until next week. I started a separate thread on both forums looking for the experience of others. Seems no one else had it working either. With further study and experimenting, I was able to get it working.

I hadn't noticed it before, but the version of instructions I received with the controls pack last October had incorrect and conflicting info about the MIL. This week I downloaded the version from the Ford Performance website -- which I have to assume is the most current -- and compared it page by page. Some of the discrepancies related to the MIL are fixed, but there's still a contradiction. At the top of page 15, it says to connect blunt lead 4 (MIL) to the negative lead on the indicator. In the middle of the same page it says to connect blunt lead 9 (ground) to the negative lead on the indicator. Now I'm no EE, but pretty sure you need to pick one or the other.

When I wired the build initially, I wired the MIL with the positive lead to blunt lead 4 and the negative lead to ground. The table on page 14 of the instructions suggests that's how it should be wired. But it doesn't work if wired that way. This week I disconnected my previous work and jumpered it to be a ground switching circuit. Hooked the blunt lead 4 to the negative lead on the indicator and the positive lead to an ignition switched 12V source. Of the several ways it's suggested to be wired, that one seemed the most consistent.

At first I didn't think this worked either because the indicator light only flashed briefly when the key was turned, rather than staying lit until the engine starts as the instructions say on page 7. I tried pulling the MAF sensor connector, but that only created a no-start condition and no DTC's. So I pulled the throttle body connector. Although a bit ragged (no surprise) the engine started and the light popped on. Yea! Scanned the ODB port and had two TPS related codes. Plugged the connector back in, cleared the codes, started the engine, and the light turned back off. I repeated the sequence again with the same result.

I'm now satisfied that the MIL is working correctly other than not staying lit until the engine starts. That isn't a problem. The flash tells you it's alive and there aren't any stored codes. Just different than what the instructions say. Note that it does just barely glow all the time the Coyote PCM is powered on. You can't see it in the daylight, and it's just barely visible at night. I measured a little over two volts on the light all the time. But full voltage is applied when there's a fault, so there's no missing it. Not too excited about intentionally introducing faults because I'm a complete amateur and don't want to hurt anything. So happy to stop. Today I took out the jumpers and made the wiring changes permanent.

Here's proof my MIL is working. This is with DTC’s P0122 and P0223 thrown when I disconnected the throttle body connector. With the codes cleared, the MIL turned back off. Note this is not the LED provided with the Coyote controls pack. It’s one that matches the other indicators on my dash from Watson’s Streetworks.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007092016/IMG_0419_zpsrrt02dfi.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007092016/IMG_0419_zpsrrt02dfi.jpg.html)

One other comment FWIW. While speaking to Ford Racing about the MIL problem, he asked me if I was using a custom tune in my installation. I said "not yet" but would in the future if driveability isn't OK or I think I need to find more power. He cautioned that I should get a new tune regardless, and that I risked damage to the engine if I didn't. He said the non-stock intake and to a lessor extent the non-stock exhaust may cause the A/F to be off enough to cause damage. I said I thought the PCM would adjust the A/F, and he said yes but maybe not enough. He said it was OK to start and run, but not to put any load on it until it was dyno tuned. Frankly this surprises me. Some on the forum agree with this, others have reported long term use and mileage with no issues. There are at least two very well known tuners in my area. Still thinking about this one.

Meanwhile, back on the build, I've also been working on the transmission cover. I filled the existing cutout and made a new round one where needed for my TKO rear shifter. I’m planning to cover it with 1/8-inch foam padding and leather, same as the dash, so it’s necessary for it to be smooth and flat. I’m also installing a traditional looking ashtray (convenience bin???) like the originals and like my last build. I like the classic look, and it’s handy for storing really small stuff. I use it for my ear plugs. But since there’s a lot of air pressure in the transmission tunnel and the ashtray isn't sealed at all, I bent a small box out of sheet metal and aluminum for it to sit in and attached to the bottom of the transmission cover. Still a little more left to finish this up, but close.

Doubler used to hold the patch in place and box for the ashtray.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007092016/IMG_4341_zps6gtcjx5w.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007092016/IMG_4341_zps6gtcjx5w.jpg.html)

Fitting the trim pieces:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007092016/IMG_4338_zps9jmrwkto.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007092016/IMG_4338_zps9jmrwkto.jpg.html)

What it looks like in the cockpit. I’ll be using a shift lever boot from Mike Everson, same as my last build.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007092016/IMG_0424_zpsdbxouxdc.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007092016/IMG_0424_zpsdbxouxdc.jpg.html)

Today we retrieved the body from the storage unit where it’s been hanging since last summer. Another pretty big milestone in the build. Felt good getting it over here. Next up is to get it trimmed and fitted. Usually the body is stored over the chassis, but I’m switching things up a bit this time.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007092016/IMG_0421_zpspsw2ygp4.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007092016/IMG_0421_zpspsw2ygp4.jpg.html)

Also today FedEx dropped a small package from Factory Five. I hadn’t heard about this. FF made a technical change to the 2015 IRS and obviously thought it was important enough to send to previous purchasers. Great customer service FF! If you have the 2015 IRS and haven’t received, I’m assuming you will soon. Should be pretty easy and quick to remove the old parts and install the new ones. I’m hoping it doesn’t change the rough alignment I’ve already completed.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007092016/IMG_0425_zpslryxomne.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007092016/IMG_0425_zpslryxomne.jpg.html)

Will be out of town for a few days this coming week, but still hope to get started with the body work.

edwardb

07-10-2016, 07:10 AM

Now that I have the wiring (I hope!) done and all seems to be working OK, here's a spreadsheet that has everything. Including how I hooked up the 2015 Coyote. Includes the most recent changes to get the MIL working. Note, for the record, there are some differences between this and the FF Coyote installation instructions. (1) Coyote harness and PCM/PDB is used for the start function and cooling fan vs. RF harness (affected wires removed), (2) no firewall solenoid, and (3) master disconnect installed. Hopefully this will be a resource to others with similar builds.

Note this is a .zip file. Open the zip after downloading and the spreadsheet will be there. Also note there are four different tabs in the worksheet.

55925

unrealmach1

07-10-2016, 08:46 AM

Thanks for the updates on the wiring. I really enjoy reading your build thread and appreciate all the detailed information contained within your updates. It is very helpful to first time builders like myself that are planning very similar coyote builds. Thank you.

edwardb

07-11-2016, 10:05 AM

Also today FedEx dropped a small package from Factory Five. I hadn’t heard about this. FF made a technical change to the 2015 IRS and obviously thought it was important enough to send to previous purchasers. Great customer service FF! If you have the 2015 IRS and haven’t received, I’m assuming you will soon. Should be pretty easy and quick to remove the old parts and install the new ones. I’m hoping it doesn’t change the rough alignment I’ve already completed.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007092016/IMG_0425_zpslryxomne.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007092016/IMG_0425_zpslryxomne.jpg.html)

Got the revised pieces installed today. Pretty easy. Took only about an hour or so, and that including removing and replacing the wheels/tires that I had previously installed. I thought about trying to do the installation without removing the wheels, but it's pretty tight quarters and you need room to loosen/tighten that 100 ft/lbs bolt plus you'd have to hold up everything once the bolt was pulled. So decided against it. The new fitting places the Heim joint exactly the same distance from the knuckle, so I'm satisfied my preliminary alignment wasn't affected. The only minor glitch was the new instructions say to re-use the washers from the previous installation. But my previous installation parts and instructions didn't say anything about washers, and I didn't have any 5/8-inch hardened washers in stock. Quick Lowes run and good to go.

Dave Howard

07-17-2016, 02:54 AM

edwardb

07-17-2016, 07:07 AM

A comment about the sluggish throttle pedal from a few posts back. If you are using the Ford Racing pedal, the foot pad is on a spring and pivots on the end of the pedal arm. I removed the spring and secured the foot pad to the pedal arm with a simple zip tie. In doing this, the pedal is much more responsive.

So you'll be in line to give charity rides at London next year????? I gave a dozen with my Coyote then drove it 10 hours back across the border to Northern Ontario. My Coyote/TKO/Moser power train is a beast. What a blast. There's no other car show I'm aware of that lets you rod your car while law enforcement watches at the turn out lane. Hoping to be back more frequently.

I have the FF provided foot pedal grafted onto the Ford Racing DBW module like the instructions show, with a few differences I noted earlier. I haven't noticed it as much with more recent starts. Maybe I'm getting used to it or the engine is learning and responding more. Right now, it seems pretty connected. But I'll take a look at it. Thanks for the tip.

London is a blast. We've gone 4-5-6 years in a row now (don't remember exactly...) and always have a great time. Especially this year with the perfect weather. I've done some charity rides as well. I don't know what I like more. The actual drive or the reaction of the riders. Great times. I don't know that I'll be taking the brand new build on the rides next year. It will have almost no miles on it by that time.

edwardb

07-18-2016, 07:54 PM

Was away from home several days last week, so progress was slowed. But still plugging away. My main focus has been working on the body. Because of the dust, I prefer to work outside on the drive. But it’s been pretty warm (by Michigan standards) so my main work time has been earlier in the day for a few hours at a time. I have the hood, trunk and door openings all trimmed and straight. All the light openings are ready for fixtures. Also knocked down the parting lines, but will leave the final work for the painter. That’s about all I can do with it right side up. So today took it off the body buck for hopefully the last time. Tomorrow I’ll flip it over on its back and do the perimeter, wheel lips, cockpit front and back, front grille openings, etc. At that point, will be ready to drop on the chassis for the first time.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0436_zpsevbodbdq.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0436_zpsevbodbdq.jpg.html)

I also finished the transmission tunnel cover. I came up with a method for the mounting to be hidden. I painted two coats each of Lizard Skin sound and heat insulation on the bottom. Today I took it to the auto upholstery shop I use. They’re going to install the leather. I decided some stitching along the corners would look nice and that’s not something I can do. It’s supposed to be done later this week, so I’ll post some pictures when it’s done. They’re also stitching the pockets for the leather door panels I made.

While we were in Cleveland last week for my wife’s annual checkup, I made the obligatory run down to Summit Racing in Tallmadge. I wanted to pick up the fire extinguisher and mounting. The sales tax for a local purchase is cheaper than the hazmat charge to ship it, so that was a good excuse to visit. I’m using the same H3R Performance HalGuard 1.4 pound bottle I’ve used before, but wanted to look at a couple different mounts. Another advantage of visiting in person. But I ended up with the same polished band and flat surface mounts I’ve used before. Not cheap (how many times have I said that?) but they’re very nice quality.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0438_zpsv4qt8ihw.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0438_zpsv4qt8ihw.jpg.html)

One last comment about Coyote tuning. I’ve mentioned this in a couple of my updates plus the recommendation from Ford Racing to do a custom tune or risk damage to the engine. I’ve been in touch with a couple local dyno shops recommended by Ford, and they either don’t work on the crate version of the Coyote or don’t have any appointment openings for months. So I’ve done some preliminary research and looks like a remote tune is the way to go. Lots of information in this thread. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/45-ford-modular-engine-roadster-builds/570489-sct-aed-jms-dyno.html. The tuner I’m seriously considering only tunes with log files and I need the build to be legal and on the road to capture the data. So won’t be doing anything until next year. One of the main learning points here IMO is that any build with a Coyote needs to include a tune in the budget. Somewhere in the $500 - $700 range is probably where to start. Note this includes a hardware device (there are several different varieties) to load the tunes, collect logs, and also can be used as a real time monitor, read and clear DTC's, etc. I know there are many that run Coyotes without custom tunes. But the overwhelming feedback is that it should be part of a Coyote build.

Bill Waters

07-19-2016, 09:08 PM

Yes, that's what I've posted before. Still the parts I would recommend, but one comment. I had a local builder ask me about these and ordered/received them since I received mine a little over three years ago. I learned the Avery Dennison #10045 part number has apparently changed slightly since then. It has the same cable and tie capacity, and is still for a #8 (roughly 3/16-inch) screw. So will still work OK. But the overall part is slightly smaller and the head of a 3/16-inch rivet may need to be trimmed more than I described before. Maybe a 1/8-inch rivet would be OK?

Thanks,

Bill

edwardb

07-21-2016, 12:03 PM

Body prep is underway in earnest. Managed to be right in the middle of the hottest days so far this summer, so moved indoors. Temporarily banished #7750 over to it's off-site storage location and threw a tarp over the new build. I'm totally trashing my garage but it will clean up easy enough. I'm about 3/4 of the way around the perimeter getting everything straight, wheel openings trimmed, etc. I'm doing most of the work with different size drum sanders on a corded drill, a belt sander, and various sanding blocks and straightedges. This isn't my most favorite part of the build, but I'll deliver the build to the painter essentially ready to fill, prime and paint. Sorry for the crummy smartphone picture.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0452_zpsatskuowr.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0452_zpsatskuowr.jpg.html)

Jazzman

07-21-2016, 12:43 PM

edwardb

07-21-2016, 08:19 PM

Would you mind posting a bit more detail and photos of what you are doing to "get the body ready". What are you doing to the wheel wells? Where else are you shaping? What other areas have you found that should be addressed to make the body "ready for fill, prime, and paint". Thank you!

What areas need to be addressed? Easy answer. Everything. :p

OK, that might not be the answer you're looking for. The body is trimmed out of the mold (I guess...) but pretty much nothing is straight or even. I go over the entire perimeter and every single opening. One of my goals is nothing touches the body for the first time after it's painted, so that includes the lights, roll bar, windshield, etc. Here's a grocery list:

Trunk opening: Trim the lip to 1/2-inch all around.
Door openings: Trim the lip to 5/16 - 1/4-inch all around.
Hood opening: Cut off the bottom part of the lip to 5/16 - 1/4-inch all around.
Radiator opening, oil cooler opening, brake cooler openings: Trim all around making the lip parallel to the smallest dimension.
Body sides where they wrap under: Straighten.
Front body bottom wheel well to wheel well. Trim as necessary to have parallel behind the oil cooler opening and symmetrical curves to both wheel well openings.
Rear body bottom wheel well to wheel well. Similar to the front. Parallel to the trunk opening and symmetrical curves to both wheel well openings. Note for the entire body perimeter, I break the edges with a slight radius all the way around inside and outside. Your hands will thank you as you handle the body plus helps to not tear up bulb seal.
Wheel well openings. Here I first trim the lips to 5/16 - 3/8-inch all around. The fronts I taper to zero starting 6-inches or before it starts going around to the front. Hope that makes sense. I put a pretty strong radius on the outside all around all four. Later I'll be adding a filet of HSRF all around the inside of the lips, and put a radius on the inside. This gives the appearance of a rolled edge. Strong and good looking IMO. Here's a picture of what that will look like from my last build:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2600_zps4fee118f.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2006012014/IMG_2600_zps4fee118f.jpg.html)

Headlights: Get centered on the pad, opening up the large hole as required. I drill the two relief holes and the mounting holes. Note I use small bolts rather than the self-tapping screws provided. Just a personal preference.
Front running lights/turn signals: Centered, open center hole so they sit flat. The Weaterpack connector fits through the larger hole.
Rear lights: Here you will find as most do that the pad is slightly smaller than the two lights mounted on each side. They overhang just slightly. Some guys don't like that, and will do the necessary body work to enlarge the pads. I haven't, and find that if they're carefully centered and mounted as close to each other as possible, it's just not that noticeable. But clearly others feel very differently. I adjust the holes as necessary to find the best position, and open up the center holes to clear the lights and also so that the Weatherpacks fit through. One other hint. The rear pads I've found aren't completely flat. They are bulged slightly outward. I try to make them a little flatter without removing too much material. This helps to improve the appearance of the overhang IMO.
Side louver openings: I adjust them so the angle of the opening exactly matches the angle of the louvers and so that exactly the same amount of each louver is exposed.
Cockpit roll around dash: Straighten/clean as necessary and trim to provide dash clearance.
Cockpit roll around rear wall: Also straighten/clean and trim to provide rear wall clearance including carpet.
Side pipe openings: Adjust later after the body is on. Note they are purposely undersized for 4-into-4 headers.
Windshield post openings: Also adjust as necessary after the body is on and the windshield installed. You don't want the body touching the windshield side posts.
Roll bar openings: After the body is on.
And finally, just for good measure, I quickly go over the entire underside with heavy grit paper to knock off the high points, loose threads of glass, etc. Just makes it a bit neater for later when the trunk bedliner is applied. Note: Use a sanding block. Not just a folded piece of sandpaper. Fiberglass splinters hurt! Ask me how I know.

Also of course are fitting and mounting the hood, trunk, doors and latches. Cutting and mounting the hood scoop. Fitting and installing the splash guards. Fitting and installing the radiator surround.

I think that's about it.

Jazzman

07-22-2016, 12:10 AM

I think I'm sorry I asked!! Seriously, thank you for that laundry list. Now I have even more fun to look forward to!!

handsometommy

07-23-2016, 01:33 AM

edwardb

07-23-2016, 06:35 AM

As I attempt to plan my first build, albiet a donor, EdwardB your attention to detail is impressive, and almost daunting. As I try to think of, and create checklists of things to do based on this build and #7750. I have poured over these 9 pages multiple times in the last few weeks. Just Wow! thank you for the great thread, ideas, and I really look forward to seeing the car when its complete.

Thanks! And welcome to the forum. Good luck with your upcoming build. It's quite a journey. Just one hint. After a couple builds, I do like to change things, do mods, etc. Not as many as some, but certainly gets away from a stock build a bit and leaves quite a few supplied parts in the boxes. Most are strictly preferences. The stock parts absolutely work.

edwardb

07-25-2016, 04:41 PM

Today the body is back on the chassis. First time it’s been there since we brought the kit home from FF almost one year ago.

Saturday I completed the first pass at all the body clean-up. Of the three Roadster bodies I’ve had, this one is probably the cleanest. The Mk3 really doesn’t count because the Mk4’s are so much better. But this is probably a bit better than #7750. Everything lines up across the parting lines. I knocked down the parting lines just enough to see they shouldn’t need any special treatment. Just the usual body filler with everything else. Hood and trunk lid look perfect. We'll see about the doors. I’ve got 4 small chips in the gel coat (underside of the radiator inlet, ends of the dash roll, one end of the rear cockpit roll) that I’ll touch up with HSRF and it should be good to go. Overall, I’m very pleased with the quality. I gave it a good solvent wash and then a bath with a hose and some Soft Scrub and a scouring pad. All the wax, mold release, whatever, should be gone.

Spent a little while cleaning all the dust in the garage and rolled the body in. Looking good.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_4344_zpsnbb0ghgq.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_4344_zpsnbb0ghgq.jpg.html)

Today I used the hooks that I have in my garage ceiling along with the rope lock pulleys I’ve used for previous builds to lift the body, roll the chassis under, and drop the body into place. If you take your time, it’s possible to do this by yourself, which I did. Warning: Do not try this without the center cockpit brace!!! Also, I wouldn't do this with a painted body. But no qualms at all with the unpainted body.

Ready to go on. Note I put some beach towels around the door hinge area. You need to spread the body as it’s dropping into place, and this protects the body and the chassis.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_4359_zpsjjbamnbj.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_4359_zpsjjbamnbj.jpg.html)

Drop the nose and hook it around the frame.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_4360_zpswyksieeu.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_4360_zpswyksieeu.jpg.html)

Then lower the rest of the way. Spreading the center as you go and then pulling the back around the trunks sides.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_4363_zpsdnshka3e.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_4363_zpsdnshka3e.jpg.html)

I installed this time without any of the bulb seal or cushioning, looking for any aluminum that might need to be trimmed plus any other adjustments. I had to re-position the horns a little bit. They were tight up against the back of the DS brake cooling inlet. I need to trim a little more off the rear cockpit roll. Still a little tight there. The dash ends are tight. But I’m not going to do anything yet. With the firewall bulb seal, hood surround cushion, and front QJ bolts, I think it will lift a little and be OK. We’ll see. Everything else looks pretty good. But I’ll be able to tell more in the next round with the bulb seal and cushioning. Interesting this is my first build where the front frame pieces lined up. My other two I had to bump the DS over an inch or so. Not this time. Good. The wheels lined up in the wheel wells pretty good. Offsets look good too. My ride height is at least an inch too high still, so the gap along the top is more than it will be once everything is adjusted. The GP Headers are pointed right into the pipe openings. Nice.

The heat and humidity have been pretty bad, so I’ve cut down my hours a bit. Just get too wiped. Supposed to cool down or at least lose some of the humidity later this week. I hope so. You hot climate guys probably think I’m a wimp.

edwardb

07-25-2016, 04:46 PM

In a previous update I mentioned I had taken my transmission cover to a local automotive upholstery shop to have some stitching sewn in the leather and then installed. Also had them do some stitching on the pockets of the door panels. Everything was done last week, just when promised (good place) and I have the pieces all done. Pretty happy with how they turned out.

This is the bottom of the transmission cover. After installing a patch and getting the shifter hole in the right location and installing a box for the ash try to fit into, I worked on a way to make the mounting hidden. After some thought, came up with a pretty simple solution. I riveted two aluminum 90-degree angle pieces that line up with the 3/4-inch tubes in the tunnel. I also made a sandwich of .090 and .040 aluminum to go along the front. The front engages into the lower bend of the front tunnel A-shaped piece, then I put two 1/4-bolts through the angle pieces and into the transmission tunnel cross pieces. I located the two bolts where they’re easily accessible from the bottom. I’m very pleased with how solid this holds the cover in place. And all hidden.

Once assembly was completed and before the leather was applied, I brushed on two coats of Lizard Skin sound and two coats of Lizard Skin heat on the bottom. I like Lizard Skin a lot, but I don’t like to leave it exposed. Works best when covered IMO, like with carpet, etc. I happened to be poking around on their website, and found they said the same thing. They have a top coat product now (their part number 30101) so gave that a try. It’s solvent based, vs. the water based Lizard Skin product, and is similar to typical undercoating spray. Here it is all done. Not too pretty, but in this case who cares?

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007252016/IMG_0459_zpsd5m8q0nz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007252016/IMG_0459_zpsd5m8q0nz.jpg.html)

This is a closer view of the two brackets and the front mounting.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007252016/IMG_0460_zps4b97xlsn.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007252016/IMG_0460_zps4b97xlsn.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007252016/IMG_0462_zpsvfyufj8z.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007252016/IMG_0462_zpsvfyufj8z.jpg.html)

And finally, with the good side up and what it looks like in the cockpit.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007252016/IMG_4347_zpsmbpzztj4.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007252016/IMG_4347_zpsmbpzztj4.jpg.html)

I also finished up the leather door panels. These are essentially copies of Herb’s door panels but made from the same leather hide as the dash and transmission cover. The upholstery shop stitched the pocket pieces and installed a piece of elastic. I stapled that in place with extra staples in the elastic band. Then glued and stapled a liner over that. I’m trying to have the mounting for these hidden as well. I had a little trouble with the Velcro Herb uses, so ended up with some finish screws through the panels on my last builds. (Maybe if my wife didn’t stuff those big water bottles in there…) Doing some more looking, I found a 3M product called Dual Lock. A little similar to Velcro except they’re molded from plastic and kind of snap together. 3M claims five times as strong as Velcro. They come in all different holding strengths and different adhesives. I picked a combination that seems would be strong enough and also has a high temp permanent adhesive. I put three pieces along the top and one in each corner. I wasn’t sure how it would stick to the Masonite, so wiped on some contact cement where they would go, let it mostly dry, and stuck it down. They’re also just thick enough to deal with the layers of leather on the back of the panels. I suspect they will be pretty hard to get off once I put them on the doors, but that’s OK. I’ve never had to get the other ones off. On purpose anyway.

Back of the two door panels:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007252016/IMG_4349_zpsmy7znflb.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007252016/IMG_4349_zpsmy7znflb.jpg.html)

One of the finished panels. Turned out pretty nice I think.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007252016/IMG_4354_zpsp7mjzfzy.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2007252016/IMG_4354_zpsp7mjzfzy.jpg.html)

Tomorrow it’s back out into the sauna and will take off the body, make a few adjustments, put on the bulb seal and cushions, then back on. If all goes well, can start finalizing lots of things.

edwardb

07-27-2016, 08:02 PM

I've had the body off and on several times in the last couple days, making tweaks along the way, and am now happy with how it sits on the chassis. There were a number of questions and some dialogue on the other forum about what needed to be done. None here though. Brief summary: Needed a couple more tries at the trim on the rear cockpit roll to give proper clearance for the rear cockpit wall and pending carpet. Needed to re-do the curve on the ends of my dash so they fit properly into the underside of the body. My nice gentle curves needed to be made tighter. Because the PS is closed at the firewall, meant I had to trim about 1-inch off the end of the dash so it could make a tighter bend. I peeled back the leather on the end (learned that DAP Landau adhesive sticks really well...) cut off the aluminum, and re-wrapped the end. No one but me will know it was done plus it's hidden up under the body anyway. Also had to bump over the DS front frame horn about 1/2-inch. With the body centered by measuring from the chassis to the front wheel well lips the DS QJ mount interfered with the DS brake duct opening. Now moved over and fixed.

Now will get it back up on the lift and start fitting and finalizing things. Saw this view when I was on the ladder unhooking my locking rope pulleys from the ceiling. Pretty cool. Starting to really look like something now.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_4366_zpswc0okc8e.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_4366_zpswc0okc8e.jpg.html)

edwardb

08-05-2016, 05:36 PM

Plugging away trying to get ready for paint. Life has gotten in the way a little lately. We’re working on a real estate deal that could be real interesting and an amazing new space to work in. But all very preliminary and we’ll see what happens. Trying not to get my hopes up too much.

Meanwhile, working my way around getting everything set to take to the painter as a completed, fitted build. I’ve said this before, but I’ll say it again. My personal goal is nothing touches the finished paint job that hasn’t been mocked up and fitted before paint. It scares me (as it does the builder) every time I see a forum post about fitting something to a painted body. Even things like side exhaust cutouts, etc. Don't do that! :o Once I was satisfied the body was in the right position front to back and centered side-to-side, first bolted in the rear quick jack mounts. I’m using a bumper and overriders in the back, and only overriders in the front. Using the couplers I previously showed on the back, cut my threaded rod and anchored down the rear. I had to adjust the precut holes a little. But not much. Just have rough hardware on there now, and will add 3/4-inch polished tubes from ********** later. But not until the trunk lid is fitted and confirm the rear valance is where it needs to be.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008052016/IMG_4371_zpswrpactel.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008052016/IMG_4371_zpswrpactel.jpg.html)

For the front, I’m using ********** grommets and 3/4-inch polished tubes along with the same 7/16-inch threaded rod as in the back. I did this same exact thing on my last two builds and it looks really clean and is amazingly strong. But the grommets need to be located and fitted properly. I propped up the front of the body so it was properly above the 3/4-inch hood surround tubes and the pre-cut QJ holes were properly aligned with the frame brackets. Then located and cut the holes for the grommets, cut the 3/4-inch tubing to the proper lengths, and mocked up the overriders. I like the new brackets that Factory Five designed and provided with this kit attaching the body using the running light location to the QJ bolts. But I'm probably not going to use them. This method is really strong, plus I'm also installing a Dark Water splitter like #7750. That too mounts on the QJ bolts. Just too much going on in there.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008052016/IMG_4369_zps8n8iuhus.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008052016/IMG_4369_zps8n8iuhus.jpg.html)

Note that since this installation is using threaded rod with nuts on the inside of the overriders, I drilled out the threads in the overrider mounting plates. Also note the angle of the overriders. To be reasonably authentic, they are supposed to be at roughly the same angle as the radiator opening on the body. The bracket welded inside the overriders is at an angle, but not quite enough. Easy enough to tip ‘em just a little more. Finally, this 3/4-inch tube from ********** is a bit different than what I’ve received from them before. It’s the same OD, but a much smaller ID (thicker wall) and not as highly polished. It will be OK. But the bushings I used before to center the tubes over the threaded rods no longer fit. I used several wraps of aluminum tape over the threaded rods at each end and that was all it took.

I also mounted the Tangent Technologies driving lights and SS grill kit. I showed the completed assembly in a previous update. Now just a case of locating it and drilling four holes for the mounting bolts. I briefly plugged in the Weatherpack and confirmed that it works properly. One of the few remaining electrical items I hadn’t checked yet. All good. Now back in the box until final assembly after paint.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008052016/IMG_4367_zpsvqnsyaow.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008052016/IMG_4367_zpsvqnsyaow.jpg.html)

I installed the rear splash guards, also affectionately called elephant ears (for obvious reasons) and they fit pretty good. I think these must be slightly updated from previous ones. For both other builds they were too small and I had to make new ones or there would have been large gaps. Not so with these. I actually had trim them just a bit. Easy. I used my normal nutserts and 10-32 flanged SS screws to attach to the chassis. Haven't started on the front ones yet.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008052016/IMG_0480_zpsicksjn9s.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008052016/IMG_0480_zpsicksjn9s.jpg.html)

There is a tab on the bottom of the rear splash guards that gets attached to the body. Some guys leave that unattached (thread about that some months ago) but I want it attached. The usual method is a small bolt through the body. Although it’s well around toward the bottom, it still can be slightly visible. I decided on this build to not put a bolt through the body but instead use a 10-32 perforated base stud (97590A567 from McMaster) same as I use on the side louvers. Roughed up the body with 60 grit, cleaned, and bonded with HSRF. I don’t have the nut tightened all the way down, but you can get the idea here:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008052016/IMG_0477_zpsolpjv6vk.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008052016/IMG_0477_zpsolpjv6vk.jpg.html)

edwardb

08-05-2016, 05:37 PM

I prepped the side louvers for installation. I bought the upgraded ones from Factory Five. They’re the same thing as available from Whitby’s, I think also **********, etc. I had them silver powder coated when I did all my other powder coating. I attached the mounting brackets to the sides with 6-32 button head screws. The heads of the screws are on the inside and (mostly) hidden behind the louvers. I’ll glue the 10-32 perforated base studs to the body and clean up the opening to match the louvers when I have the body off for undercoat. I did trim a little bit off the base studs because they were too close to the opening.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008052016/IMG_4378_zpst1tdhkou.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008052016/IMG_4378_zpst1tdhkou.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008052016/IMG_4377_zpszfp1i1ca.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008052016/IMG_4377_zpszfp1i1ca.jpg.html)

The last couple days I’ve been working on installing the windshield. These things can be a bit of a pain, to say the least. First order of business was to replace the brass strips in the ends with the SS pieces from Whitby. Those brass pieces are incredibly fragile. I managed to strip one of the holes just checking the fit of the side bars before taking it apart. Get it just a little cross threaded or get too heavy handed and the 2 to 3 turns of threads in the brass are gone. The SS strips went in pretty easily. They come with 10-32 chrome oval head screws. But unfortunately they are too short. (Had this problem on #7750 as well.) They supply 1/4-inch long screws but they need to be about 3/8-inch. Got those, had to adjust a few a bit more, and finally got the side bars attached. Quick note: Lots of scary talk on the forums about breaking the windshields with screws into the frame. Very true for the visor connections along the top. But not for the side bars. Those screws bottom out against the frame and the glass is on the other side of the metal. But still you have to be careful to get them started straight and not over-tighten. Even the SS ones. I trimmed 2-inches off the bottom of each side bar, and worked to get the body openings adjusted. My body is pre-cut, so the initial openings are there. After a few adjustments, the side bars slid into place. Another hint for first-timers: The final body openings are not straight front-to-back. They are angled some. They point out slightly, when looking from the back to the front. Lots of discussion about the right windshield angle. I’m aiming for 27-inches from the top windshield screw to the front of the rear door opening. This, BTW, is the dimension Factory Five provides for their premium top. I haven’t gotten any further. The bars seem to be matching up pretty well with the chassis mounting points, but need to look at this further and finish the mounting. I’ll shim them if needed. The goal is not put any stress on the glass. The good news is the windshield and gasket are fitting the contour of the body perfectly. The best of the builds I’ve had so far.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008052016/IMG_4385_zps2jpzldik.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008052016/IMG_4385_zps2jpzldik.jpg.html)

Last update comment. When Factory Five released their updated Coyote installation instructions to include the 2015 Coyote, they show using spacers on the engine mounts. But two differences from the past. They show using them on both sides. Before it was only on the DS. Plus they designed some new parts that sandwich into the motor mount. Better IMO than the spacer on top of the motor mount. Like their previous version and the Whitby ones I currently have installed. So several weeks ago I called and ordered a set of the new parts. Turned out to take a little longer than expected because the design was just released to production last week, and the first parts cut had to be approved by engineering. But they were ready yesterday, and they shipped them to me overnight. I was pleasantly surprised the spacers are steel vs. aluminum like what I have now. I’m planning to lift my engine just enough with the shop crane to slip out the motor mounts and current spacers, put in the new spacers, and (hopefully) fit the motor mounts back in. Looks pretty open, so I think I can do it without disturbing things too much. Also note the new spacers are 1/2-inch thick vs. the Whitby 3/8-inch thick spacers. This should help me get a slightly better alignment for my headers and side pipes and still keep the oil pan above the frame.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008052016/IMG_4376_zps6lbotrez.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008052016/IMG_4376_zps6lbotrez.jpg.html)

That’s it for now. Tomorrow is the one year anniversary since my kit arrived in the garage. I will never be able to build as fast as some. But I’m very pleased with the progress I’ve made to date.

David Hodgkins

08-05-2016, 06:06 PM

Looking great Paul.

..and as you know, it's about quality, not speed. Awesome as usual!

:)

wareaglescott

08-05-2016, 07:02 PM

Looks great Paul. Glad to see you got the spacers. I received a box of a couple backordered items this week and the spacers were listed on the pack list however they were not in the box. Not sure what happened there. Hope to have them soon. Great info in your posts. Thanks for such great detail.

GoDadGo

08-06-2016, 07:17 AM

Your 20th-anniversary build, along with your past project, has been a big help to me.

I really appreciate the fact that you've put so many pictures online, which is something that I just can't seem to get the knack of.

Finally, the impact on my car, even though I am a 1st time builder, doesn't look that way thanks to folks like you and other who are on this forum.

ThickCobra

08-06-2016, 08:37 AM

Edwardb,

I know I'm asking this late to the game, but any suggestion as to routing the 3AN SS hose for the hydrailic clutch thru the peddle box to the clutch slave cylinder?

edwardb

08-06-2016, 03:19 PM

Edwardb,

I know I'm asking this late to the game, but any suggestion as to routing the 3AN SS hose for the hydrailic clutch thru the peddle box to the clutch slave cylinder?

I think I mentioned it a little. But this is what I did. I'm assuming we're talking about the hydraulic setup provide by Mke Forte for the Wilwood pedal box. The supplied SS hose has a straight fitting on one end and a 90 degree on the other. I found the 90 degree fitting worked best on the slave cylinder. That left the straight adapter for the MC. But here Mike provided a 90 degree adapter for the MC. I couldn't find an orientation I liked so ended up buying a straight adapter, Wilwood 220-6956. That worked perfect. The hose comes out the back of the MC, turns and goes along the 2-inch dash tube, through the footbox at the same location as the rear harness. Then down to the slave cylinder. It comes pretty close to the 3/4-inch diagonal tube in the engine compartment, so I used a padded clamp to hold it there.

ThickCobra

08-06-2016, 05:46 PM

That's what I was looking for...the routing. Excellent, thanks. I hope you are enjoying your summer and some great weather in your 7750.

Jay

edwardb

08-09-2016, 08:28 PM

Quick update. Yesterday I was able to get the new Factory Five engine mount spacers installed. I don’t recommend trying this on an installed engine. It wasn’t too bad, but certainly would have been easier before the engine was installed. But they weren't available or even known about (at least by me) when I installed the engine. I put the engine hooks back on the Coyote, loosened the motor mount and transmission bolts, and then used my shop crane to lift the engine in place just enough to squeeze out the motor mounts one at a time. The plan worked reasonably well. But once the spacers were installed, took even more clearance to get the mounts back in. Then things tended to go out of alignment a bit. But eventually got the job done, and very happy I did. I like this much better than the separate spacers I had before. The slightly extra height (1/2 vs. 3/8-inch thick) sets the engine up just a bit higher and allowed me to get my header heights from side-to-side nearly perfect and stay even with the 4-inch chassis tubes. Very happy camper and nice improvement by FF.

Here are couple pictures with the spacers installed in the mounts. I put some rattle can paint on them a few days ago before assembly. That bare steel would have rusted pretty quickly.

Passenger side. There isn't a gap between the large spacer and the mount like it looks in this picture. The edge is just rolled a bit.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0487_zpshmpw6wll.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0487_zpshmpw6wll.jpg.html)

Driver side:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0488_zpsdqr8ot17.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0488_zpsdqr8ot17.jpg.html)

Today I finally wrapped up the windshield installation. Took a little more time than I expected to get the body cutouts just right. You don’t want the side bars touching the fiberglass body. But also don’t want to get the slots too big otherwise the plates won’t cover them completely or have a place for the mounting screw. Also took a little time to get the side bars aligned properly where they wrap around to the top of the windshield. I ended up with 1/8-inch spacers on both the top and bottom bolts to make the side bars the same width as the chassis mounts and keep from stressing the windshield. I put them on the DS side since it’s a bit easier to reach in there to install them. One tip that makes installing the windshield a whole bunch easier. Probably one of the best tips I’ve tried in a long time. Saw it somewhere on one of the forums and tried it for the first time. Instead of just drilling out the 1/2-inch holes in the windshield side bars, drill them 27/64-inch and cut threads with a 1/2-inch x 13 tap. Easy to cut threads in the brass. That way you only have to put in a bolt from one side in each of the holes when mounting and aligning the windshield. Way easier than bolt + nut + wrench on each side while chasing around a moving windshield. When tightened, they're nice and strong. But I’ll put a nut and washer on each bolt during final assembly.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0489_zps6yzw6t6u.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0489_zps6yzw6t6u.jpg.html)

I’m working my way down the list of final items before paint. Tomorrow I’m going to put in the wipers. The real estate deal I mentioned in my last update is progressing. We have a signed deal on the new place two miles away and now waiting to see if our current homestead will sell. Twice my current workspace, much higher ceiling, plus I can keep my trailer on site. Oh yea, my wife gets what she wanted as well. Hope we can close the deal. It’s a bit of a project but with where I’m at on the build not expecting my timeline to change.

Next week is Woodward Dream Cruise week here in the Detroit area. The world’s largest one-day automotive event, drawing an estimated 1.5 million people and 40,000 classic cars. While officially a one-day event (this year it's August 20th) it's actually pretty much a week long party. I have something going on nearly each day. The Great Lakes Cobra Club will be at the Comerica Bank in Birmingham if anyone wants to stop by. We'll be 60+ cars strong. Good times.

GoDadGo

08-09-2016, 09:41 PM

You Do Great Work & Your Attention To Detail Is Fantastic!

But you already knew that.

David Hodgkins

08-10-2016, 05:36 PM

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0487_zpshmpw6wll.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0487_zpshmpw6wll.jpg.html)

Question for you sir. Is that the engine ground strap? If it is, are you going to grind off the paint under the strap end? I was advised to and this is how mine looks:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41448&d=1430237452

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41450&d=1430237454

You're still doing a killer job...

:)

edwardb

08-10-2016, 07:46 PM

Question for you sir. Is that the engine ground strap? If it is, are you going to grind off the paint under the strap end? :)

OK, that's funny. When I saw how prominent that engine ground strap connection was in the picture I posted of the motor mount, I thought "Someone is going to tell me I need to grind off the powder coat because there's no bare metal showing." Sure enough!

The powder coat is removed under that lug. Pretty much the entire footprint of the lug. What I do is mount the lug, then tape around the perimeter, take the lug back off, and then remove the coating inside the tape outline. I use wire brush attachments on a Dremel. It cuts the powder coat relatively easily and allows me to follow the outline pretty closely. Plus the wire brush doesn't cut into the steel, so leaves the surface nice and flat for good contact. Did all the grounds on the chassis the same way. I'll take the bolt out and prove it if I have to :rolleyes: but I'd prefer not to.

BTW, the ground wire discussed here is coming from one of the mounting bolts on the starter. You can just see the other end in the background of the picture. There was already a hole drilled in the motor mount at this location, so opened it up slightly, threaded it, and used it for the chassis ground. I have a second ground wire on the engine from a threaded location on the engine block to the main ground location on the chassis 4-inch tube that includes the battery ground and also the main ground wire from the Coyote harness.

I appreciate knowing that people are following my build thread and noting the details. Got this one covered, but keep the comments and questions coming!

edwardb

08-17-2016, 04:38 PM

This is supposed to be Woodward Dream Cruise week here in SE Michigan. We got off to a good start with a kick-off barbecue last Sunday. But now two days in a row of events washed out due to rain. I’m sure there are lots of people out there having a good time. But open top Roadsters stay in the garage. More stuff Friday and the big event on Saturday. We’ll see what happens.

In the meantime, still plodding along trying to get the body ready for paint. With the body and windshield installed, located and cut the wiper box holes in the body. I admit to being a big chicken with that drill jig. I just can’t bring myself to use it directly to drill that big of a hole. Really don’t want it catching, jumping around, whatever. Plus fiberglass really is easy to work with.

I locate the holes and use the rubber gasket to trace the outline. Then after a small pilot hole, use a step bit to drill as much of the hole as I can. I keep the jig always in view to confirm the proper angle. It’s not super critical.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008172016/IMG_0492_zpstfmd8hul.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008172016/IMG_0492_zpstfmd8hul.jpg.html)

Then after using some round files to get close to the line, which takes just a few minutes, I use a small sanding drum to clean up the hole. I just happen to have one that is almost exactly the right final size.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008172016/IMG_0493_zpscz8mnmct.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008172016/IMG_0493_zpscz8mnmct.jpg.html)

Final product. Literally just takes a few minutes and no drama. Fits the wheel box perfectly.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008172016/IMG_0495_zpsisglm5px.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008172016/IMG_0495_zpsisglm5px.jpg.html)

I tried to use the angle spacers that FF provided. They are much improved over previous ones. But still just wasn’t happy with how they fit or held the angle. So made my own again from 3/4-inch square aluminum tubing. Have used this same approach on all three builds. With a little trial and error, they fit very well and hold the angle solidly. In the foreground is the metal tubing that FF now supplies in the wiper kit. Nice fit for the cable and similar to the fuel line tubing approach I’ve done before. Plus they’re nice and shiny. Can’t beat that! I’ll finalize the tubing with the body off. Just easier to see and reach everything.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008172016/IMG_0506_zpsin7qktgr.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008172016/IMG_0506_zpsin7qktgr.jpg.html)

Next up I located and mounted the seats. I’m not using any tracks (haven’t found them necessary) and I mount both sides as far back as possible. Works for me. The mistake I’ve seen people make though is they mount the seats without the body installed. Potentially a big mistake! They end up pretty close to the rear door opening (by the striker) so you want the body in place to prevent any interference. After getting them where I wanted, I mounted them with four bolts each. The front two are into the steel seat pan, with the inside one very near the main chassis 4-inch tube. The back outside is through the large 2-inch square tube. The back inside I tap threads into the top center of the main chassis 4-inch tube. This makes a nice solid mount. Note: The back outside bolt may need to be further toward the center if you have 3-link or 4-link. The LCA mounting brackets are right under the area where I placed the bolts here. That bracket isn’t there for an IRS chassis like this one.

Driver’s side:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008172016/IMG_0500_zpso9h6wcvd.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008172016/IMG_0500_zpso9h6wcvd.jpg.html)

Passenger side:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008172016/IMG_0498_zpsxlvpvjub.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008172016/IMG_0498_zpsxlvpvjub.jpg.html)

Seats now installed. The interior is looking more complete all the time.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008172016/IMG_0501_zpsnyg5k0d1.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008172016/IMG_0501_zpsnyg5k0d1.jpg.html)

edwardb

08-17-2016, 04:41 PM

Next I went after the front splash guards. For whatever reason, I have always struggled with these. I’m now 3-for-3 messing around with these more than I would like. I’ve read all the threads and tried everything. This time around, the very top was OK, but they weren’t really wide enough at the top side, too wide at the bottom side, and overall too long. They absolutely wouldn’t fit into the available opening without cutting off the bottom some which includes the little mounting tab. I tried messing with the bend, flattening them out some. Tried adjusting the angle on the F-panel. And tried every possible location in the actual body. All helped a little I guess, but in the end I still had some gaps around the top and top side. I would have just made new ones (done that before…) but since these were already powder coated white from FF as part of the Anniversary package, really wanted to use them. What I did was order some larger bulb seal from McMaster. Part number 1120A191 which has a 1-inch bulb vs. the FF supplied 3/4-inch bulb. That is going to work. With the bottom cut off I fit to the body and riveted on two new tabs made from the famous donor fan mounting strips FF provides. I’ve lost track how many little parts I’ve made from those pieces. Nice mild steel that is easy to work with and more durable than something made from .040 aluminum. Final results, and they fit quite well:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008172016/IMG_0505_zpsdlr4q51l.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008172016/IMG_0505_zpsdlr4q51l.jpg.html)

Finally, today I took everything back apart and lifted off the body for I think the last time. I have a punch list of things to do to the body, including the truck bedliner. Then it’s back on the chassis for final panel fit and ready for the painter.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008172016/IMG_0507_zpswq4lakhn.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008172016/IMG_0507_zpswq4lakhn.jpg.html)

One last non-build related update, but in the end has significant impact. I’ve mentioned the possibility of a real estate deal and a possible new improved workplace. Well, looks like it’s going to happen. Our current home is under contract. Only took about 10 days and deal looks solid. The deal on the new place that started all of this has a couple details remaining, but is also about wrapped up. So we have the not so enviable task of moving all our possessions about 2 miles north starting in a couple weeks. We’re excited about it because it’s a ranch all on one level which is exactly what my wife needs. It is however a bit of a fixer, so between moving and doing the initial remodel work, my build is going to take a lower priority and even will have a bit of a time out I think. Probably several months at least. We’ll see what that really means over the next week or two as things get firmed up. But I’m not going to rush the build. It will still be there after we move. There really is a house involved with this deal, but here’s the good part for the hobby: 950+ square foot finished garage with a 14-foot ceiling. It’s a truss roof, so it’s wide open. No posts, beams, etc. The previous owner wasn't a car guy, but he could have been! We can’t get in unless our agent is with us, but I did sneak up there and snap a picture with #7750 lurking at the doors. Looks right at home. With only one DD (which can now always have a space) I think I will have enough room. Also, since it's more in the country plus a large lot (2.8 acres) I can keep my trailer on site. I think this could work. ;)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0490_zpsfzdi2zar.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0490_zpsfzdi2zar.jpg.html)

Jazzman

08-17-2016, 05:15 PM

I will reserve full "Congratulations" until the house deal is completed. (Don't want to jinx it!!) However, I am so pleased for you. Those 14' ceilings will give you plenty of storage and work area. I don't envy you the process of moving, I remember it all too vividly, but it sounds like the reward will be worth the process. We certainly understand how your build will take a back seat to your other family priorities. There are so many of us that view you as one of the pantheon of experts who both knows his stuff and is willing to share with anyone who is interested. I view this short pause in your build as a good thing for the rest of us: it will give us time to catch up to you!! :D Your move may not be specifically "build related", but you are most certainly a treasured member of the FFR family. Please occasionally update us on the progress of your move. I will look forward to seeing photos of your projects' new home, the blank slate that will become your new man cave!

WIS89

08-17-2016, 05:18 PM

Paul-

That is certainly great news on the house and garage! I hope the final remaining items are resolved smoothly and without much fuss. I know how much moving is a pain, having done so more times than I care to admit. However, I hope it goes well for you, and you get settled in quickly.

We'd love to follow along if you choose to have us!

Regards,

Steve

edwardb

08-18-2016, 05:55 AM

Thanks for the very kind words and best wishes guys! We've moved more times than I'd like to remember. Three corporate relo's and a couple times on our own. Each time I was reminded how much work it is. We're just going to hunker down and get through it. With a good pay-off at the end. One of the benefits is with more room I'm not going to pursue selling #7750, at least for now. I'll keep the updates coming, although probably a little less frequently.

RickP

08-18-2016, 01:37 PM

Paul Mischenko

08-21-2016, 02:24 PM

Congrats on the new place. It looks like your going to have plenty of space to work and collect! While moving can certainly be a pain, think of all the fun you will have setting up that new garage. ********** has some nice garage accessories and a cobra neon light coming....congrats and thanks again for all the detail and posting. It's been a tremendous help. Cheers

edwardb

08-21-2016, 07:25 PM

Good luck with the move and let us know when you get situated. Love the progress on the anniversary build and don't want to miss out. The tranny cover and doors turned out top notch. What a nice touch.

Congrats on the new place. It looks like your going to have plenty of space to work and collect! While moving can certainly be a pain, think of all the fun you will have setting up that new garage. ********** has some nice garage accessories and a cobra neon light coming....congrats and thanks again for all the detail and posting. It's been a tremendous help. Cheers

Thanks guys. Appreciate the good wishes.

edwardb

08-21-2016, 07:33 PM

Today I finished the body side louver installation. Pretty minor update, but some aspects that newer builders may find helpful. Still fitting in a little build activity around our real estate dealings. Down to the last few details. This week we hope to close out the last couple contingencies and firm up the closing dates for both properties around the end of September. Meanwhile, back to the build while I can.

I bought the assembled side louver set from Factory Five. These appear to be exactly the same as the ********** ones I used on the Mk3 build. I polished the last ones, which wasn't easy. So decided to have these powder coated, and chose a bright silver color. They turned out nice. I bolted the mounting brackets on each side as mentioned in a previous update. There is regular discussion on both forums about how best to mount these things to the body and always seems to draw lots of different opinions. Velcro, silicone, etc. I’m 3-for-3 mounting them with McMaster 10-32 perforated base studs, part number 97590A569, and bonding the studs to the inside of the body with 3M HSRF. Applied properly they will never come loose, it looks neat and clean, and they’re easy to install and remove once the studs are bonded to the body.

I captured the studs on the mounting brackets with nuts on each side, determined where they would attach on the inside of the body centered in the pre-cut opening, roughed up the body with 60 grit paper, and bonded them in place. I used rubber bands looped around the louvers in two places and held in place by paint sticks while the HSRF cured. The clothes pins helped hold the rubber bands while I fed the paint sticks through. I only had used paint sticks on hand. Nice. One of the colors in our family room and not sure about the other one...

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0511_zpsowbjtsxx.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0511_zpsowbjtsxx.jpg.html)

Once cured, removed the louvers and the studs are bonded in place for good. Used a Dremel to clean things up a little and added a little more HSRF in any voids. Then trimmed the bolts to have a more reasonable length.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0515_zpsdw7qlwdc.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0515_zpsdw7qlwdc.jpg.html)

Re-installed the louvers.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0518_zpspcxg6t8p.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0518_zpspcxg6t8p.jpg.html)

Now for a very important part. The precut openings were reasonably close, but not finished products at all. Drew parallel lines top and bottom. Then drew lines on each side parallel with the angle of the louvers. This is a critical step and IMO makes the difference between a pro looking job and one that isn’t as much. Also, ideally the width between the last louver and the body on each side should the same as the width of the inner louvers. The louvers weren’t quite long enough, but got them close.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0519_zps61gccxos.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0519_zps61gccxos.jpg.html)

While doing the final fitting, I noted that the louvers didn’t fit flush against the inside of the body. Further review showed the rear part of the louver is too high. I trimmed them on my disk sander until they were flat. Roughly in the area noted here. The sanding removed the powder coat on the edge, but it’s inside against the body and doesn’t show.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0520_zps0p6fdr1k.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0520_zps0p6fdr1k.jpg.html)

With the body trimmed to the lines, a radius sanded all around, and the louvers trimmed so they fit flush, the final product.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0523_zpsi5rudcdo.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0523_zpsi5rudcdo.jpg.html)

Nothing left to do with these except install them after paint is done.

edwardb

08-21-2016, 08:05 PM

Also, I nearly completed the wipers. With the two wheelboxes mounted in the body, made up the tube that goes between the two plus the little stub for the end of the cable to run in. I was planning to use the nice shiny tubing that came with the wiper kit from FF. Looks like it's SS. But it's rock hard so apparently not annealed. Even my nice Eastwood pro flare tool wouldn't dent it. The tubing would slide before making a decent flare, no matter how tight I tried to clamp it in the flaring tool. So went back to my old standby. 5/16-inch steel fuel tubing. It's the perfect size for the cable and flares like butter with the Eastwood tool. Made the two pieces and clamped them into the wheelboxes while they were in the body. Sets everything at the right angle. I'll make the last piece between the motor and the PS wheelbox when the body is back on.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0524_zpsadh53dqg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0524_zpsadh53dqg.jpg.html)

This is a closer picture of the 3/4-inch square aluminum spacers I mentioned in a previous update. These instead of the rubber tubing supplied with the kit. Once the right angle and length was determined, spotted them in place to the base of the wheelbox with JB Weld. Not necessary once they're all together. But keeps things lined up for final assembly. Plus I apparently just like to glue stuff...

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0525_zpszs5rgzfv.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0525_zpszs5rgzfv.jpg.html)

Couple more things to do to the body, including the truck bedliner coating, and I'll get the body back on the chassis. Likely will be my stopping place until after the move.

GoDadGo

08-21-2016, 08:20 PM

I like your "Square Bar" solutions Sir Edward.

I used 1/2 PVC pipe (schedule 40) with a union attached then I drilled it out with a 5/8" bit and cut it to the correct angle.
It fits very well plus I was able to use my belt sander to get the sizes just right.
As always I'm glad to view your work and while I believe that my solution will work well, I know I've got your solutions if it doesn't.

Have A Great Evening!

KDubU

08-22-2016, 06:46 AM

Looking great Paul, as usual! Good luck with the move, sounds like you found a great place for you and your wife. Now the $25k question, what colour you painting her? ;) let me guess, red?

edwardb

08-22-2016, 07:07 AM

Looking great Paul, as usual! Good luck with the move, sounds like you found a great place for you and your wife. Now the $25k question, what colour you painting her? ;) let me guess, red?

Lucky guess... :rolleyes:

edwardb

08-25-2016, 03:56 PM

Another quick update as I’m wrapping up chassis details. I installed the final two panels on the DS footbox. Outside top and side. I had previously given them the full Lizard Skin treatment, so just a matter of the usual silicone and rivets to make them permanent. Then a little touch-up of Lizard Skin around the inside to completely seal it up. You can see the bolts for the Russ Thompson dead pedal. More about that later.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_0529_zpsfwjl9hwq.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_0529_zpsfwjl9hwq.jpg.html)

Also bolted on the access cover. I had previously installed nutserts and also put some coats of Lizard Skin on the underside of the cover in the area of the opening. None around the edges so it fits nice and flush. Feels good to see that installed. Hopefully it stays there for a good while.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_0528_zpsgpeunu81.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_0528_zpsgpeunu81.jpg.html)

I really like a dead pedal to rest my left foot while cruising. On my previous Mk4 I used the Russ Thompson bolt-on dead pedal sold by Breeze. Very happy with it so did the same thing here. Sitting in the seat, I used some double back tape and found the best angle and depth to fit my foot. Then drilled the mounting holes. Note this is the older version of the footbox sheet metal. I don't have the little bumpout like on the newest sheet metal. I'm assuming this same dead pedal would still work, but I don't know for sure.

Since the dead pedal goes on top of the carpet, and I wanted to install it for good, went ahead and installed the carpet. Actually this is a good time to do the footbox carpet before the body is on. Easier to reach back in there. So I installed the outside and back piece. It comes in one piece from FF, but I cut it and installed in two pieces. Just easier to position. Nearly completed DS footbox and pedal area:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_0538_zpsstff7stl.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_0538_zpsstff7stl.jpg.html)

Since I was doing carpet, did the same area on the PS. Also cut the single piece and installed as two pieces.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_0532_zpsqkwjhtcp.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_0532_zpsqkwjhtcp.jpg.html)

I’ve tried a number of different methods to attach carpet (contact cement, silicone, spray adhesive, etc.) and like Outdoor Carpet Adhesive far and away the best. It’s strong like contact cement, but allows some re-positioning. You only have to apply it on one surface with a 1/8-inch notched trowel, place the carpet, and then a roller to lock it down. Works really great. I use the DAP product. I find the solvent based stuff works a little better than the water based. Just more aggressive when you push the carpet down and sets up faster. Not easy to find though. I order it on Amazon. Note that if you get any of this adhesive on the good side of the carpet (it happens...) a little mineral spirits on a paper towel and it cleans right off. Doesn't seem to harm the carpet.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_0539_zpsv9zdzbaz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Aluminum%20Panels/IMG_0539_zpsv9zdzbaz.jpg.html)

Tomorrow I’m going to start the final details on the body, and then drop it on the chassis probably early next week. Then I expect to start my time out. Our house deals are progressing with basically all details completed. Closings are supposed to be one month from today and we have a lot of work to do to get organized for our big move. Then I have an ever increasing list of things to do on the new place. At some point I hope to find a gap and finish up what's needed so I can get this thing to paint. But it's going to be a few months from now at least. We'll see. Gotta save some of this build for my new expanded garage and workspace.

David Hodgkins

08-25-2016, 05:18 PM

edwardb

08-25-2016, 08:02 PM

Quick question Paul:

For the louver studs, do you see and problem with using JB Weld instead of 3M HSRF? I have JB Weld on hand already and was thinking I'd use that, but I'm interested to hear if you have a reason why I shouldn't.

:)

Hi David. I use my share of JB Weld. But I've never tried it on the vinylester glass body. Generally, it's not recommended to use epoxy with polyester or vinylester resins. But my sense is that if you roughed up the bonding area on the body real well, the JB Weld should stick to it OK. That stuff does well with many different surfaces. And frankly the louvers aren't a huge weight to hold up. If I were doing it, I would only do one and give it a pretty good pull test once the JB Weld cured. Then do the rest if it seems OK.

David Hodgkins

08-26-2016, 10:38 AM

Hi David. I use my share of JB Weld. But I've never tried it on the vinylester glass body. Generally, it's not recommended to use epoxy with polyester or vinylester resins. But my sense is that if you roughed up the bonding area on the body real well, the JB Weld should stick to it OK. That stuff does well with many difference surfaces. And frankly the louvers aren't a huge weight to hold up. If I were doing it, I would only do one and give it a pretty good pull test once the JB Weld cured. Then do the rest if it seems OK.

Thanks, I hadn't thought of that (obviously).

I think I'll just go ahead and do it the right way, with HSRF. Thanks!

:)

carlewms

08-26-2016, 07:41 PM

edwardb

08-26-2016, 09:02 PM

Paul,

Your Post 334 on body preparations is just what I needed to have ... perfect for us trying to tackle the body right now.

Thanks for your dedication to perfection, setting a very high standard and your willingness to help all of us!

Have a great move ...

Carl

Thanks Carl. I appreciate your comments very much. :o

Glad the body work post is helpful. Also glad most of that is behind me. Not my favorite part of the build.

edwardb

08-31-2016, 10:05 AM

Just about ready to put the body back on prior to final panel fit and then ready to go off to paint. While doing the basic trimming and cleanup, I noted 5-6 spots that needed some repair. Mostly just minor stuff like the gel coat chipped on the ends of the cockpit roll around dash and back wall, couple of chips around the front radiator opening, etc. Also decided to tighten up the holes cut for the windshield post. Once the windshield was fitted, I had some pretty big openings between the post and the body. You don’t want the post touching the body, and the provided covers would have covered the holes I had. But it was kind of a lot, and close to where one of the mounting holes needed to be on one side. They need to be sealed from the underside after final assembly to keep water from running in. Having them closer just gives less to seal. Plus looks better. Like that matters...

Additionally, I like to add a filet on the inside of the wheel lips. On the Mk3 (and maybe earlier, but I don’t have experience with those) the wheel lips once trimmed were a pretty sharp edge and it was common practice to add a “roll” or filet to give a more finished appearance. The Mk4 body is much better and once trimmed can be left as is and still look good. But I added the filet on my previous build and chose to do the same again on this one. Once the area behind the lip is filled, they can be rounded over and gives a nice solid look with nothing hollow behind. I like it. The material of choice for this as well as the previously mentioned repairs is 3M’s HSRF (High Strength Repair Filler). Same stuff used to bond the perforated based studs mentioned before. It’s specifically made for vinylester glass, like the FF fiberglass parts, and is amazingly strong. Like most material of this type, is a 2-part product with a small tube of hardener. It takes a few tries to get the feel for how much to use. To keep moving you want it to set up pretty quickly, but not too fast! It’s not impossible to sand, but not easy either. Best to get it as close as you can before it sets.

After doing all the little repairs noted, did the wheel lips as described. After searching far and wide, found the best forming tool.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0547_zpsoy3dbme6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0547_zpsoy3dbme6.jpg.html)

Some shots of the finished product.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0545_zps47itwuk7.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0545_zps47itwuk7.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0548_zpsxxzydb4r.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0548_zpsxxzydb4r.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0550_zpswi2kfglk.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0550_zpswi2kfglk.jpg.html)

Next up was the body undercoat. This isn’t mentioned in the FF instruction book as I recall. But it’s a step many builders add. Accomplishes at least two things. First gives an overall uniform and clean appearance to the underside of the body. Not too important for much of the body, but some of it shows behind the wheels in the wheel wells, some in the trunk, and also you can see the inside of the body behind the F-panels under the hood. Just looks better. But more important is that it gives a measure of protection to the body from stones or whatever being thrown up into the body and potentially cracking the glass or staring the paint. There are a number of different products on the market. I chose to use the Duplicolor Bed Armor product. Happened to be on sale at Advance Auto. Plus, it’s water based which helps for an already pretty messy process. This is the first time I’ve done the underside myself. Last two times were by the painter. I don’t know how much they charged, but I’m sure more than the < $100 for the materials to DIY. It’s not hard, but took several hours and would have been easier if I had gotten the body up off the ground. (OK, I know I’m really spoiled…). The undercoat material has a lot of solid material (I assume ground up rubber?) in suspension. Needs to be stirred constantly and doesn’t brush all that easily. The roller that comes with the kit does a good job, but has a really short nap so doesn’t work in the curves or irregular surfaces all that well. I used a combination of brushes and the provided roller. I put a couple coats on the entire underside and another heavy one in the wheel wells. Still have a little left over that I’ll use for the splash guards.

All ready:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0552_zpsnkdzvn2x.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0552_zpsnkdzvn2x.jpg.html)

Done:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0553_zpsfenoml3g.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0553_zpsfenoml3g.jpg.html)

Instructions say 72 hours for full cure. With as humid as it’s been, it will take every bit of that. I’ll get the body onto the chassis in a couple days. Back to packing!

GoDadGo

08-31-2016, 03:45 PM

Edward,

I'm planning to coat the underside of the body and have the UPOL Raptor Liner in Red, but have concerns.
My question is how did you flip and support the body without creating problems?
I haven't flipped mine yet and don't want to damage it.

Steve

edwardb

08-31-2016, 04:48 PM

Edward,

I'm planning to under body coating, but have the UPOL Raptor Liner in Red, but have concerns.
My question is how did you flip and support the body without creating problems?
I haven't flipped mine yet and don't want to damage it.

Steve

Notice in the pictures, I always have a spreader bar between the front and rear cockpit rolls. I find with this in place and careful handling, it's possible to flip the body over pretty easily. I make sure the spreader doesn't fall out with a couple bar clamps if needed. To flip it, with it on the ground and the spreader in place, I put a bunch of blankets along the side. Then carefully roll it over by first standing it on the side and then lowering on its back. The spreader keeps the front and back from flexing in. But it's also important to make sure it doesn't flex apart. That's when the clamps can be useful. With it on it's back, a padded furniture dolly under each fender keeps it stable and it can be moved around with a little care. I do most everything myself, but if you have a helper or two it's easier and less stressful. Plus it's not painted. If it were, of course everything completely changes.

GoDadGo

08-31-2016, 06:25 PM

I'm not sure if I'm brave enough to flip it and may just hang the body buck and spray it from underneath.
I may try, but can't say for sure.
Thanks Again!

edwardb

08-31-2016, 07:59 PM

I'm not sure if I'm brave enough to flip it and may just hang the body buck and spray it from underneath.
I may try, but can't say for sure.
Thanks Again!

It's not as fragile as you might think if you don't put any undo stress on it. It's going to have to come off the body buck sometime. :rolleyes:

GoDadGo

08-31-2016, 10:12 PM

I'll take your word for it and will keep you posted.
We've had the body on a few times and tonight we put the engine in for the 4th and hopefully final test fit.
Being my 1st build, you know exactly how I feel since you're now on your 3rd.
Thanks Again For Posting So Many Pics!

edwardb

09-02-2016, 09:03 PM

Today was the day to get the undercoated and nearly completely prepped body back onto the chassis. The goal was to get it to a stopping point in preparation for our move.

Did my usual solo thing with rope locks from the hooks in my garage ceiling to lower the body onto the chassis. I use lots of towels to let it slide into place a little more easily, especially while pulling out the sides over the door posts/hinges. Note this also goes a long way to keep from tearing up the bulb seal along the trunk sides and the cushioning around the hood opening.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0560_zpsj8xqjonu.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0560_zpsj8xqjonu.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0561_zpstepapkau.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0561_zpstepapkau.jpg.html)

Once the body was lowered into place, installed the front and rear quickjack bolts, the front and rear splash guards, side louvers, and the windshield. All that stuff is pretty much in final form. I’m real happy with how everything is fitting and the body is lining up on the chassis.

While I still had the chassis on the lift, I decided to clip off the corner of the e-brake bracket back near the rear driveshaft u-joint. This has been discussed in several threads. Some were just close like mine, others with actual interference. Word from Factory Five is these are hand placed when the chassis is welded up. Apparently there is some variation. Mine was clearing by 1/4 to 5/16 inch, but a little close for comfort. I was able to fit a reciprocating air saw up in there and take off the corner. Cleaned it up with a file and touched up with a little matching grey paint. Much better. Now it’s over 1/2 inch clearance. One less thing to worry about.

I bolted on the doors, taped on the trunk lid, and set the hood in place. I haven’t started to trim or fit any of those parts. All look pretty good with the exception of the usual low spot on the front of the DS door. I haven’t starting fitting the side pipes or adjusting the body openings yet. But the GP Header alignment into the openings looks good. Not expecting any big issues there. At that point, took it off the lift for now. It was such a nice day I pushed it out onto the driveway and posed for a few pictures alongside #7750.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0563_zps9x8gj28v.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0563_zps9x8gj28v.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0564_zpsqted6liu.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0564_zpsqted6liu.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_4389_zpsqnnhnmjy.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_4389_zpsqnnhnmjy.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_4391_zpswmxmhpwz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_4391_zpswmxmhpwz.jpg.html)

Feels good getting it to this point. Several observations. I’m liking the aggressive look of the 18-inch wheels more and more. I also really like the deep dish design of the rear wheels. Ride height is at 4-1/2 front and 5 back. Exactly one inch more than #7750 sitting next to it. Shows in the wheel wells and the overall height. I expect some of this will settle, but will watch and adjust if needed. The rear track is one inch wider than #7750 (69-3/4 vs. 70-3/4) and gets the tires right to the edge of the wheel lip. The front track is exactly the same on both (67-1/2). I was a little disappointed those BFG’s didn’t come in a 255. But the 245’s look very similar in width to the 255 Nittos on #7750.

I didn’t feel like trying to push the new build up the slight incline back into the garage. So started it up and drove it in. Quickly. Two observations. It’s been at least a month or two since I’ve started the Coyote. It started instantly. Amazing. But without side pipes and open headers, it is crazy LOUD. I don’t plan to do that again unless I have to. You guys that do first starts and run your engines with open headers I hope are using ear protection or you don’t have any hearing left. That’s just nuts.

With both Roadsters back in the garage, took this final pic. Hopefully the next picture like this will be in our new garage.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_4392_zpsqvakx7ws.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_4392_zpsqvakx7ws.jpg.html)

We’re roughly three weeks from our expected close dates, with some possibility it could be sooner. So I’m officially calling a time out on the build at this point. We have a lot to do to get ready for our move and then there will be even more once we get there. It’s possible I may be able to get the final couple remaining things done and it could be at the painter sometime during the move. But we’ll see.

GoDadGo

09-03-2016, 05:49 AM

Phenomenal Work As Always!

Dave Howard

09-03-2016, 09:40 AM

GoDadGo,

The body is quite flexible and lite enough for one person to handle. My body buck was on casters. I rolled it outside and flipped the body off onto the front lawn. One gallon of bedliner later (I don't know how many coats) with a paint brush. In the sun, the bedliner was dry in no time. Rolled the body back onto the buck and into the garage. It was about a 3 hour deal as I remember. Appearance? NO ONE will ever see it. But for protection, you'll be glad you did it the first time you hear rocks coming off your tires striking the underside of the wheel well areas.

M3ichael

09-08-2016, 02:30 PM

Amazing build. Was thinking of doing a build now not to sure.

edwardb

09-08-2016, 02:39 PM

Amazing build. Was thinking of doing a build now not to sure.

Thanks, but.... What about the build causes doubt? It is a lot of work. No question about that. But keep in mind there are a number of areas I went off the grid from a stock build. Plus I was early to the game with the new 2015 IRS and the new 2015 version Coyote. A year later, both are more established. The newer sheet metal that wasn't available when I bought my kit also is a nice improvement and eliminates some of the things I did.

GoDadGo

09-08-2016, 03:05 PM

Amazing build. Was thinking of doing a build now not to sure.

I'm a first time builder and while my build won't be up to the level of EdwardB's latest car, I'm sure it will stack up some place in between.
My advice to you is to look at the assembly videos, then get the manual and read it, then go to the build school if you are still interested.
Once you do that figure out if you want to do this, then review out your finances and assess your skill sets before pulling the trigger.

NOTE: My point is if I can do it then you probably can too!

bansheekev

09-08-2016, 04:31 PM

Amazing build. Was thinking of doing a build now not to sure.

I'll chime in here being one of the very early Coyote builders starting in 2012. A lot of what I tackled on my own is baked into the kit from FFR now. The new sheet metal is great from what I hear and solves all the things I faced trying to fit size 12 EEE feet in the footbox of a Coyote build. This is a majority of where I spent my time addressing challenges on my own to use the Coyote. A non-issue now. The new IRS is outstanding as well. I'm on the older IRS design (which I still love) but modern stuff is definitely more refined. Building these things is primarily about attention to detail. I didn't find it difficult but it required vision and focus.

Kevin

M3ichael

09-08-2016, 10:19 PM

I'm a first time builder and while my build won't be up to the level of EdwardB's latest car, I'm sure it will stack up some place in between.
My advice to you is to look at the assembly videos, then get the manual and read it, then go to the build school if you are still interested.
Once you do that figure out if you want to do this, then review out your finances and assess your skill sets before pulling the trigger.

NOTE: My point is if I can do it then you probably can too!

Great advise. Been watching the video's, just got reply back on the FF manual (pic on wesbite is older version), looking into the build school for sure, finances meh, and the last one the gets me is skill set.

M3ichael

09-08-2016, 10:22 PM

I'll chime in here being one of the very early Coyote builders starting in 2012. A lot of what I tackled on my own is baked into the kit from FFR now. The new sheet metal is great from what I hear and solves all the things I faced trying to fit size 12 EEE feet in the footbox of a Coyote build. This is a majority of where I spent my time addressing challenges on my own to use the Coyote. A non-issue now. The new IRS is outstanding as well. I'm on the older IRS design (which I still love) but modern stuff is definitely more refined. Building these things is primarily about attention to detail. I didn't find it difficult but it required vision and focus.

Kevin

Thanks Kevin for the advise and I'm just around the corner from you in Salinas (Toro Park Area) off HWY 68. The new IRS is great and I'll be Auto-crossing it heavily "if" I build it.

bansheekev

09-08-2016, 11:11 PM

Thanks Kevin for the advise and I'm just around the corner from you in Salinas (Toro Park Area) off HWY 68. The new IRS is great and I'll be Auto-crossing it heavily "if" I build it.

I'm in Morgan Hill which is really close. PM me anytime and come by to check things out and get inspiration. 95% of my 2013 Coyote build is the same....

Kevin

edwardb

09-13-2016, 08:47 PM

We’re two weeks from closing and moving, so this really is my last update. I’ve managed to get some shop time in here and there trying to get as much ready for paint as I can. I’ll be talking to the painter this week to see where I can fit into their schedule.

In my last update, I had the front and rear quick jack mounts done, the body centered, and the windshield on. Next up was to fit the doors. Here the location of the sills is very important. On the passenger side, I’ve found like most others that the door fits fine with the sill pulled tight against the plastic bumpers on the chassis side. The driver’s side is another story. I don’t know how far back it goes, but it was quite common on the Mk3 for the lower front corner of the DS door to end up lower than the body and require some buildup. In spite of a re-designed body and new tooling, the Mk4 duplicated the same issue. With the Mk3, you added washers or spacers under the DS side mounting points to minimize the issue. For the Mk4, you can do the same thing by varying the location of the DS sill attachment on the underside of the chassis. The common approach is to pull the sill tight against the front and middle bumpers. As tight as possible. Then space the body away from the rear bumper while fitting the door. Doing this, it’s possible to get the DS door to fit reasonably well except along the lower front corner. I prefer to still have the body touching something back there, so made a spacer from a chunk of hard rubber. It ended up being a tapered piece, about 3/8-inch wide at the top down to 1/4-inch at the bottom. Glued this on the plastic bumper and pulled the body tight against it. I’ve heard of some pushing the DS rear sill out even more. But I didn’t find any more helped the door fit any further, plus I wasn’t comfortable bending the body sill any more than that.

With the doors fitted and the sill locations established, time to anchor them. The FF instructions say to use pop rivets to attach the sills. I’m not too excited about that approach because they’re just not that strong, not easy to take on/off repeatedly as I tend to do, and finally I don’t find the sills fit tight against the frame everywhere. So rivets just aren’t the best choice IMO. For my last build I used 5/16 nutserts in the frame with flanged SS button head cap screws. I did the same thing on this build. These are the same nutserts I used on the support frame for the passenger grab handle and also for the side pipe hangars. More about them later.

With the sill taped in place, I located three attachment points on each side. Installed the nutserts in the frame and the cap screws. The rear and center ones are easy enough because they go into the square frame tube. The fronts though are in a section of round tube. So it’s important to measure carefully and hit the center of the tube. Not much to see, but this is one of the attachment points.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0585_zpsd3dpmykn.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0585_zpsd3dpmykn.jpg.html)

I don’t have the final gaps or latches installed yet, but did some preliminary trimming to get the doors hung. The passenger side is almost perfect on all sides including where it wraps up on to the dash area. The driver’s side is pretty good except in the already mentioned lower front corner. I was able to get to about 1/8-inch lower than the body at the worst point, and tapers from there along the front and bottom edges. Better than #7750, so that’s good I guess. Should be easy enough for the painter to fill and make go away.

From there I fit the trunk lid and hood. Same as the doors, final gaps aren’t set yet or latches installed. But trimmed to where they fit in the openings reasonably well. For both, it’s important to not start trimming without something to hold them up to the same level as the body. I tape bumpers around the perimeter of varying thickness, mark, and trim. I use my ancient Craftsman 3x21 handheld belt sander for trimming back to a scribed line and works great. Hard to give up my old woodworking habits. #7750 had the older style round trunk hinges. I really struggled to get those adjusted properly. This kit has the newer, more square hinges, and maybe it’s just my imagination, but I was able to get the lid aligned and working well pretty quickly. For the hood, I bonded and riveted the hinge and strut brackets with HSRF. They’ll get painted with the rest. Makes a really clean finished look. I’ve got the hood hinges probably about 90% adjusted. Once again, the Coyote install makes things interesting because it’s so full under the hood. The intake is right up against the DS hinges. My power steering reservoir, hoses, and degas tank are guarding the PS. Interestingly, I ran out of rear adjustment on the PS hinge on #7750. This time was exactly the same. I turned the holes in the chassis bracket piece into slots so the bracket could move back about 1/4-inch and all was good.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0600_zpsl2kkgmoh.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0600_zpsl2kkgmoh.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0601_zps9cygm9lg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0601_zps9cygm9lg.jpg.html)

Next up worked on the side pipe alignment and body cutouts. Took a spacer and small wedge on the PS, and two wedges on the DS to get them parallel with the body. The Gas-N pipe flanges already had 7/16-inch holes. I drilled out the GP Header holes also to 7/16-inch, and using 3/8-inch bolts was able to get them level. I haven’t had a build yet that didn’t take some wedges and tweaking to get the side pipes lined up nicely. This was no different. But the final product is by far the best of the three builds I’ve done. They are almost exactly the same height side-to-side and the same distance from the body on both sides. My other builds I can’t say either of those things (but don’t tell anyone). It’s subtle, and you don’t see it unless you compare the two cars side-by-side, but the pipes on this build exit the body at a more “down” angle than the previous SBF builds. I don’t know if this is because of the taller/wider Coyote or the design of the GP headers. Doesn’t matter because they’re still (barely) above the height of the frame 4-inch tubes. So won’t be any lower than I set ride height.

With the sills attached, the splash guards in place, and the pipes installed, marked an even gap around the pipes on the body, and trimmed accordingly. Hard to tell from the reflections, but I set the gaps at just over 1/2-inch front and back and 5/8-inch along the top. Turned out clean and tight.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0586_zpsnpnxslfw.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0586_zpsnpnxslfw.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0587_zpsuwsxalkf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0587_zpsuwsxalkf.jpg.html)

Last thing on my list was the side pipe hangars. Some guys leave them off, but I’m in the “use ‘em” camp. The Gas-N hangars are a little different than the FF ones. The locations of the mounting tabs on the pipes aligned very nicely with the 2-inch chassis tube where they’re attached. The hangars come with through-bolts, which puts the head of the bolt in the footwell. No big deal, but I’ve used heavy duty 5/16-inch nutserts on my builds instead. Same ones I mentioned previously. They’ve held up just fine. This is where they end up.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0583_zps7heumqw5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0583_zps7heumqw5.jpg.html)

To give an idea, this is what the back of these particular nutserts look like in a test piece I did a while back. These are McMaster part number 95105A155. Once installed are very strong and really hard to get back out. Ask me how I know.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0590_zpsvpghlgsl.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0590_zpsvpghlgsl.jpg.html)

edwardb

09-13-2016, 08:49 PM

Muffler hangar installed and ready to go:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0589_zps0kk8cono.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0589_zps0kk8cono.jpg.html)

That finished everything on my list plus no more time for now. I adjusted the ride height a bit on all four corners because it was really high, and took it off the lift. Also disassembled the lift in preparation for moving, so it’s really done with that. Beautiful day out and a quiet day in the neighborhood, so just had to take it around the block a couple times. It’s still pretty raw with no carpet, open transmission tunnel, and small stones pinging off the unfinished splash guards. But all seems to be working well. I have officially 1.8 miles showing on the odometer. Parked back in the drive while working in the garage, walked around and took a few pictures. A few hours and it will be ready for the painter. But that will happen at our new place.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0595_zpsmrqpoifm.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0595_zpsmrqpoifm.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0597_zpsrydy1mm1.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0597_zpsrydy1mm1.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0598_zpsfgnnfle5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0598_zpsfgnnfle5.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0599_zpsy4tskmm1.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0599_zpsy4tskmm1.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0592_zpsvzjixjzx.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Body/IMG_0592_zpsvzjixjzx.jpg.html)

We are at “RTC” (Ready to Close) on both properties and closings are set for Sept 26. Then 15 days to make our move. I’m expecting to be out of the Roadster build business through at least the end of October. The list of projects at the new homestead keeps getting longer. We’ll be running out of driving season here in Michigan sooner than we’d like, but still very much on track to have done and on the road for the start of next season which has been my goal from the start.

wareaglescott

09-14-2016, 05:10 AM

Looking great!

M3ichael

09-14-2016, 01:17 PM

Epic build! Love reading all the meticulous details, learning so much with each of your posts. I see the new homestead has room for another MK4..... your hired!

WIS89

09-14-2016, 03:25 PM

Paul-

I know you have shown pictures of your new 18" wheels before, but I didn't realize just how deep those rear wheel deep dishes really are!

Car looks great as I know I have told you before. I look forward to seeing the finishing touches that you do to make it just right!

I hope you move goes smoothly!

Regards,

Steve

Straversi

09-17-2016, 03:06 PM

edwardb

09-17-2016, 07:44 PM

Thanks for the tip about the tapered pins. My son came home from college for just long enough to pick up clothes and cash. I borrowed his muscle for a half hour and we got the center section installed. The pins made for a quick install.

You're welcome. Glad it worked out for you and congrats for getting the center section installed. It can be a challenge. After trying unsuccessfully myself for some hours to get the parts to line up so the bolts would go in, I was pleasantly surprised how well the tapered pin worked. Done in minutes. I guess the iron workers that have been using something like these for the past 100+ years (called bull pins) had a pretty good idea.

edwardb

09-17-2016, 07:58 PM

Took the build to the shop that I want to do my paint on Thursday. Same place that did the amazing job on #7750. Local, less than an hour from where I live. They agreed it's a clean body and everything is fitting pretty well. Makes a difference in the amount of time they expect it to take, which is why I wanted them to see it before giving me an estimate. Received a written estimate yesterday that I'm satisfied with. They're real busy, but have me scheduled for December. Will be about three weeks once they start. Should have it done sometime after the first of the year. With everything else I have going on, that's good timing and still lets me get it done by my target date. I have a few days of work to do before then, but shouldn't be a problem. Since the body is undercoated and fitted, they're going to paint it "body on." Of the ones they've done, about half off and the rest on. They prefer body on, so that's what we're doing. They're the pros and I'll leave that to them.

One other quick update. Yesterday while taking a break from packing, put a vacuum gauge on the connection on the back of the intake I used for the fuel regulator vacuum reference line. That's the connection that had an attached hose going through the intake to the front of the engine and I found out later was attached to the power brakes booster in a Mustang. So removed the hose and used the very convenient location to run a short hose over to the fuel regulator. I never bothered to check it. Assumed if it's going to the power brake booster, it has to be good. Another forum member reported in another thread that this port didn't register with his vacuum gauge. Didn't make sense, but added it to my "to do" to check. So yesterday I did. Zero vacuum. The needle didn't move. At idle, higher RPM, revving up, whatever. Nothing. Very strange. Who knows what's going on, but I just capped it (for apparently no real reason) and ran a hose to the vacuum port on the intake that Factory Five shows to use for the fuel regulator. (See, I can follow directions.) Took some creativity to get from the 1/2-inch port on the intake to the 5/32-inch nipple on the regulator, but got it done. That port, BTW, shows a very active vacuum signal when measured. Don't notice any difference in how the engine runs, and didn't expect to, but now the regulator is getting the vacuum signal it's supposed to have.

GoDadGo

09-17-2016, 09:05 PM

2bking

09-18-2016, 01:58 AM

......Zero vacuum. The needle didn't move. At idle, higher RPM, revving up, whatever. Nothing. Very strange. Who knows what's going on....
The vacuum port on the back of the pre 2015 Coyotes didn't have any vacuum either and was the port shown on the FFR instructions for attaching the pressure regulator. All that was needed was to drill through the plastic in the bottom of the port to make it function.

edwardb

09-18-2016, 06:26 AM

I Flat Out Love Digging Through Your Most Recent Build!
You know how I feel about your work, but more importantly, the help you've given me through this forum is greatly appreciated!
I'm doing my best to try to achieve your standards, but I'm not there yet.
Can't Wait To See The Finished Product!

Thanks for the generous comments. I too am very anxious to see/drive the final product. But kind of with mixed feelings. I enjoy the build process a lot.

The vacuum port on the back of the pre 2015 Coyotes didn't have any vacuum either and was the port shown on the FFR instructions for attaching the pressure regulator. All that was needed was to drill through the plastic in the bottom of the port to make it function.

I remember that from the previous version. But what's strange on this version is they have a quite elaborate hose assembly attached to the port that's clamped, etc. These engines come right off the same assembly line as the regular production motors going to Flat Rock for Mustang assembly. I can't imagine they have to remove the hose and drill out the port as part of the engine installation. So I didn't bother to check plus with the engine installed and the added complexity of the CMCV motors on the back of the manifold it's pretty hard to reach. Anything is possible I guess, but it's a moot point now.

wareaglescott

09-18-2016, 07:12 AM

Paul I was reading a thread on the other forum you were involved in about the engine tune, either a dyno or a purchased tune you could load yourself. Where are you at on that?

edwardb

09-18-2016, 07:55 AM

Paul I was reading a thread on the other forum you were involved in about the engine tune, either a dyno or a purchased tune you could load yourself. Where are you at on that?

Interesting question. During my initial consideration of the Coyote, seemed custom tuning was optional. Some did it, others didn't and often cited considerable time/miles on the engine. Since I'm not necessarily looking for absolute maximum power (given how much it has in stock form) my plan was to look at a custom tune only if it needed for driveability. Fast forward to several conversations with Ford Racing tech support regarding some questions during my installation. They told me with the non-stock intake and exhaust, a custom tune was mandatory to prevent possible damage to the engine. They said it was OK to start and run the engine with the stock tune, but not to put it under any load. They also recommended a couple of local dyno tuners. I talked to the recommended tuners, and while they would be happy to tune the engine if it were in a Mustang, neither was prepared to deal with the crate version. After further research, my plan now is to use one of the remote tuners. Basically, you run/drive the build and create a log file downloaded through the OBD2 port. They build a custom tune based on the log file which is uploaded into the PCM again through the ODB2 port. Several iterations may be needed. Note these need to be actual custom tunes. Not the generic custom tunes being sold through many channels. Same as with the dyno tuners, I've found it's very important to confirm they support the Coyote specifically with the Ford Racing crate controls pack.

Straversi

09-18-2016, 10:06 AM

This thread is so helpful. Thanks.
I threaded in the 6 drive shaft adapter bolts with the lock tight. Then I threaded in the 4 drive shaft connecting bolts temporarily. I slipped a breaker bar in between 2 opposing drive shaft bolt heads and used that as resistance while I torqued the 6 adapter bolts. It was easier than applying the resistance at the spindle.

ThickCobra

09-19-2016, 09:24 AM

edwardb

09-19-2016, 10:27 AM

Paul, Will you send your car to the painter with the windshield, exhaust system and front and rear quick jack bolts removed, or will your painter remove and reinstall them if necessary? As I've only read of body - off painting, I am curious as to how this is handled. Thanks.

Windshield off. Side pipes off. (Oh good, more open header running...). Side louvers off. Seats out. Front and rear quick jacks, underside bolts, splash guards, handles and locks all installed. Once the body work is done and all panels level, matched, etc., handles and locks come off, front quick jacks and grommets come off. Underside bolts and rear quick jacks they said they would probably leave on but replace the hardware with something smaller so the paint line is inside the final hardware.

Their rationale for painting "body on" is they claim it's difficult to get the body back on exactly the same. So the original fitting, gaps, matches, etc. aren't as good. Plus they said they can do a better job exactly matching the stripes from body to panel, etc. Additionally, they claim it's really no more work for masking since all the openings need to be masked anyway to keep paint from the underside. Plus the chassis gives them a built-in body buck and the body is more rigid on the chassis than on the buck.

I think their concerns are completely manageable since my first two builds were painted body off, and one of them by them and it turned out great. Plus that is how the majority of these are painted. But two years ago they would have preferred to paint #7750 body on. When I brought it to them though, it wasn't ready yet. I still had panels not installed, no underside coating, etc. Plus I was on a pretty tight timeline and wanted the chassis back home so I could finish carpet, etc. while they were painting. They agreed, but would have preferred otherwise.

This is a custom shop. All they do is high end street rods, custom cars, show cars, etc. I've seen Factory Five's they've painted both ways, and either are top notch.

GoDadGo

09-19-2016, 10:37 AM

edwardb

09-19-2016, 01:40 PM

Hey EdwardB,

Since I'll be painting my car myself (With Expert Assistance Standing Near) do you think I could simply bag the chassis and then place the body on it?

I've used Disposable Car Covers for years and planned to "Bag The Car" when I do the body work, but now wonder if it would work for painting too.

Steve

I really don't know, or necessarily have an opinion to be honest. I've heard of guys putting a sheet of plastic over the engine compartment and/or cockpit before body on prior to body work. Can't hurt I guess. I would want to make sure a bag could be removed without too much hassle. Could be interesting trapped between the body and bulb seal, etc. No matter what, there's going to be some dust and whatever on the engine, chassis, cockpit, etc. I purposely don't put the carpet in until after paint, and also don't have the seats in it. A couple hours with an air hose and shop vac and all is back to normal in my experience.

ThickCobra

09-19-2016, 07:29 PM

Paul,

I have to say you are by far, an outstanding individual. Always helpful and willing to share what you probably learned the hard way. You may not realize how your postings of progress and approach help so many people wanting to achieve a high level of quality in their builds. What you just shared with me regarding the body-on approach to painting is much appreciated.

I cannot thank you enough.

Jay

Straversi

09-20-2016, 01:26 AM

Ah ha! I received these parts with my car but not the tech update. I even called to see if the IRS instructions were up to date and they sent me the link to the same instructions. I have a zip tie around those outer angled mount adapters with note to myself that says "find out where these go". I thought they might be part if the IRS kit for the 33. Mystery solved. Thanks

Steve

Straversi

09-20-2016, 01:28 AM

I guess this is why this thread is my daily read. Learn something new every day.
Thanks

edwardb

09-20-2016, 06:37 AM

Thanks for the positive comments guys. Much appreciated. :D Don't be looking for new stuff for a while though. We're up to our eyeballs in packing boxes and my garage and basement shop are officially decommissioned. Next week after our closings things will get even busier. It will be some weeks before the build is back in business. The available slot at the painter worked out perfectly though with our move timing. Should work out well.

Straversi

09-20-2016, 09:11 AM

Good luck with the move and be careful with your back. My back surgeon says if its below your knees or above your head, pay someone else to do it. We have plenty to read and re read while you move.

Steve

mridge50

09-21-2016, 08:56 AM

Just absolutely outstanding workmanship. I hope when I do one of these I show some attention to detail.

One small helpful hint. There are adapters for the fasttrax alignment tools for wheels w/o a significant lip. Might make your life a bit easier trying to align everything.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SICHY6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

edwardb

09-21-2016, 09:16 AM

edwardb

09-27-2016, 09:05 PM

Yesterday we closed on both houses. All went fine with the sale of our current house. Nice young family relocating to the area and our place should be perfect for them. We closed on our new house with some last minute drama, but it's done. Today I had my first riding lawnmower experience. Went fine just took a little longer than (hopefully) normal because the former owner stopped mowing the lawn a couple weeks ago (grrr...). Today was mainly spent tearing down a bunch of stuff in the garage (won't even try to explain) and getting it cleaned up. While my wife supervised a cleaning company on the inside of the house. Decided to move #7750 over to the new digs so it was out of the traffic path moving stuff over the next days. Looks quite comfortable there. That's half the garage in the pic. I measured it at 968 square feet plus the alcove behind #7750. That plus the tall 14 foot ceilings. This is going to work. I'll get the Anniversary build over there in the next couple days. I'm planning to take down those RV quality cabinets when I get the garage back together. That's my new lawnmower ride next to #7750. Nothing too fancy, but pretty low time and was in the garage when we made the offer to purchase, so included it. They accepted. Basement junk tearout and clean-up tomorrow, then we will finally start moving stuff in.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0623_zpswuhlyg1i.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0623_zpswuhlyg1i.jpg.html)

RR20AC

09-27-2016, 10:13 PM

Nice Paul, with a garage like that you can build two cobras at once. You could take on a build by someone stalled on their build and provide us with even more to read as you go. Thought about this last night at work. I went to the build school, got great information from them. I wish they could have provided support after the class. I guess that is what you do best.

mridge50

09-28-2016, 12:12 PM

There is no such thing as "Too much garage space". I have a co-worker that bought 10 acres and built a 160X100 shop along with his new house. It's huge.

I asked him about it and his reply, "Wished I'd made it bigger". He said by the time he put all his car and motorcycle stuff in there, it didn't seem as huge as he'd thought it would be.

SSNK4US

09-28-2016, 01:48 PM

A blower, a weedeater, a riding lawnmower, and that cobra..... That's all you need... From a movie with Steve Martin lol
Congrats on everything!! I can't wait to start reading more on the anniversary build.... It, 7750, and you are amazing!
Can't say thank you enough for it all

Kurt

edwardb

09-30-2016, 07:42 PM

Thanks for the positive comments while I'm taking my time out from the build for our move. Today I moved the Anniversary build over to the new garage. Used the SE of course because it's not legal, plus another rainy day after monsoons yesterday. Kind of a big day because we also moved out of our storage unit where I've kept the trailer, body buck, chassis cart, and wintered the finished cars while building. Our new place also has a shed, and the body buck and frame cart easily fit into it. Never know when I might need those again. :rolleyes: We can park the trailer here on the property. Plenty of space and no restrictive covenants. It's taken a little longer than I expected to get the garage and basement ready for move-in. But today was the last of it so things start going into the house in earnest starting tomorrow.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0630_zpsb2anue5r.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0630_zpsb2anue5r.jpg.html)

cgundermann

09-30-2016, 07:53 PM

Going to be a nice shop! Got love the look of those two sitting side by side!

wareaglescott

09-30-2016, 08:03 PM

edwardb

09-30-2016, 08:26 PM

Paul if someone moved in next to me and had two of the same car I might think they are kind of strange. I'd like to offer to keep 7750 at my place until they get to know you a little better. I am sure you don't want any poor first impressions! ;)

Wow, such a generous and considerate offer. Like me think about it... OK, done. NO. :eek:

Nice try though.

cgundermann

09-30-2016, 08:33 PM

Paul - have you decided on a color for your anniversary car?

edwardb

09-30-2016, 10:06 PM

Paul - have you decided on a color for your anniversary car?

Yes, it will be Ford Red Candy 2 like #7750 (love the color) with a slightly different stripe treatment. Let's leave it at that for now. I have to have a little mystery left. It's scheduled to be delivered to the painter in December, and promised for January. Same place that painted #7750. I have to get my shop back up between now and then to get a few things finished.

cgundermann

10-01-2016, 09:30 AM

Nice! Like the mystery...

Jacob

10-11-2016, 08:13 PM

Do you recall what the length of your couplers are? Is the length critical? Looks like an easy way to avoid dropping the gas tank! thanks in advance.

edwardb

10-11-2016, 09:24 PM

Do you recall what the length of your couplers are? Is the length critical? Looks like an easy way to avoid dropping the gas tank! thanks in advance.

No I don't recall :p so I looked it up in my build details. My couplers are 1-3/4 inches long and 7/16-20 threads that match my other hardware. Specifically are 90977A190 from McMaster. These are grade 5 steel. The ones in hardware and big box stores are typically not marked, and I suspect not grade 5. Don't know that it's critical, but I feel better using those. Length isn't critical other than to make sure you have plenty of thread engagement for both the attachment bolt and the threaded rod for your quick jacks or bumpers, whatever you're using.

Jacob

10-12-2016, 07:54 PM

edwardb

10-12-2016, 09:18 PM

Jeff Kleiner

10-13-2016, 05:23 AM

The couplers you added in post #26? Are they standard length? Also, if you add these how do you compensate for the length of the spacers that are used on the rear bumper jacks? Appreciate your help...like others I use your build thread as a guide before I do anything!

If you are asking about the spacers inside the trunk the way I do it there are none. This allows for adjustment of the rear valance to trunk lid interface during body fitting. The spacers outside the body remain the same unless you'd like to pull the bumpers/QJs in closer to the body (some of my customers have preferred this look). Here's a post I made describing my method:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14243-Rear-quick-jack-mounting&highlight=coupler

Hope that helps clarify it for you!

Jeff

Jacob

10-13-2016, 01:48 PM

thanks, sorry for being redundant...part of it is learning how to find it and the other is age related! Do appreciate!

edwardb

10-19-2016, 09:36 PM

I haven’t posted any updates for some time because there hasn’t been any build progress at all due to our move. Exactly as expected. We needed every minute of the 15 days after closing to get ready for our move. We’ve been in the new place 8 days now, and turned over the keys to the old place last week. So no going back now. We are a long way from done moving in, but making good progress I think. All the boxes we planned to unpack now are done. The added wiring I needed to do in the house is done. The garage shop is fairly organized. Even the DD has its own spot now. The basement shop still has more work to do, but getting close. We still don't have cable or internet (thanks Comcast...) so the hotspot on my phone has been very useful but not very nice to my data plan. Also still chasing mice out of the garage. No surprise with all the junk that was in there and how long it was unoccupied. Living in the country doesn't help either.

For the first time in several weeks, actually thought about what I need to work on with the build before it goes to paint in December and started making a list. Today I put the build up on jack stands. I don’t have time to mess with installing the lift right now, so back to the old days. I hope to get started again at least a little in the next week or two. Just a few more projects including installing a dishwasher that somehow seems to have higher priority.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0708_zps5c0zw3br.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0708_zps5c0zw3br.jpg.html)

RR20AC

10-19-2016, 10:03 PM

Exciting times for Paul, sound excellent.

edwardb

10-30-2016, 01:40 PM

Still plenty of projects related to our move and new house. But we're settled enough I've been able to get back on the build some. Last night I completed a re-plumb of the vacuum lines for the Coyote CMCV system and fuel regulator. This has been an ongoing issue related to P2004 and P2005 DTC's and now finally hopefully figured out. Based on the importance and potential general interest, I just finished a separate thread describing the entire situation and solution. The thread can be found here: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?22472-Important-Information-Regarding-2015-2016-Coyote-CMCV-Plumbing.

With that successfully completed, I'm starting down my list of items to complete before going to paint in December. One of those is the radiator surround. Starting with my first build, I was never particularly happy with the supplied surround pieces. I made custom pieces for my first build. Then refined them a little more for #7750 including a protective screen for the radiator. I'm planning to duplicate this exact design for this build. First order of business is the screen. I'm using a 3641-24X36 medium mesh stainless screen, #6 x .035 wire, 24 x 36" sheet, from Pegasus Racing. I'm making a frame out of 1/8 x 3/4 inch aluminum stock from Lowes using a fixture I made during the last build. I'll get this riveted together, trimmed, and then make the bottom and side pieces. More to come.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Radiator%20Surround/IMG_0748_zpskkg4apvn.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Radiator%20Surround/IMG_0748_zpskkg4apvn.jpg.html)

This picture is in my new basement workshop. Here are some wider views of the workspace. I don't have the layout finalized yet, any shelves or pictures yet, etc. Plus I need to work on some better lighting. But I'm going to get some work done first. It's a short walk up six steps to the garage, so the location is great. The room is narrower than the space I had at the old house. But the entire basement is roughly three times bigger, so overall space certainly isn't a problem. As you can see, the former owner was into some interesting colors and floor designs.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0750_zpsnd2hrfke.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0750_zpsnd2hrfke.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0749_zpsckl3oqnl.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_0749_zpsckl3oqnl.jpg.html)

Straversi

11-07-2016, 07:32 PM

edwardb

11-07-2016, 08:10 PM

You mentioned that you purchased a hide. Is it a full, half, shoulder? May I ask the thickness or the type of leather. I've looked at a few sources on line and they use different terminology. Don't want to end up with belt leather or something too thin. Don't know if you can mention the source on the forum or not but any help you can offer is always appreciated.

-Steve

I purchased a full hide on eBay. Listed as a leather hide, 42 to 45 Sq. Ft. Color: JET BLACK. Weight: 2.50 - 3.00 oz. per square foot. Since leather thickness is usually measured in ounces, and one ounce equals about 1/64" in thickness, this was 1/32 - 3/64" thick. That's roughly what it was. The seller (textile_specialist) represented this as "automotive leather" and it seemed well suited for this purpose. Since my plan was to do the dash, trans cover, and door cards, I went ahead with the full hide knowing I would have some left over. As it turned out, did have some extra. But I couldn't have gotten away with much was less since there is some variation in thickness and texture. Hope this answers your question.

Straversi

11-08-2016, 02:13 PM

Perfect, thank you.

Straversi

11-08-2016, 02:23 PM

edwardb

11-08-2016, 03:40 PM

Sorry,
You also mentioned the felt or foam backing material? Any specifics on that material? The vinyl supplied by FFR has a very thick foam and I've noticed a lot of cars end up with spongy or saggy dashes.

I used 1/8" thick Volara Sculpting Foam from YourAutoTrim.com for everything. It's just about the perfect thickness IMO. A little bit of cushion and give, but not puffy.

edwardb

11-08-2016, 03:52 PM

For the last few days I’ve been fabricating the last of the parts needed for my build. Not exactly earthshaking, but these are the first parts from the new shop at our new place. Feels good to be back at it. In between house projects of course.

First up was the filler panels for the front of the rear wheel well. In stock form there’s a pretty big gap between the frame and the body. Carpet and to some extent the door sill aluminum piece fill it. But I prefer an actual panel. Made some patterns out of kraft paper and reproduced in .040 aluminum. They will rivet to the 1-inch tube in the area. The exact shape isn’t super critical, but the DS is slightly wider than the PS because the body is pushed out to improve the door fit. Will get bulb seal along the side where they contact the body when assembled after powder coat.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011082016/IMG_0771_zpsdjfayijh.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011082016/IMG_0771_zpsdjfayijh.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011082016/IMG_0758_zpsfef99wfk.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011082016/IMG_0758_zpsfef99wfk.jpg.html)

Next was the cowl cover between the top of the radiator and the front of the hood opening. Helps to make sure the airflow through the radiator opening actually goes through the radiator, plus just looks better. I’ve used the part from Breeze Automotive on my last two builds and it works perfectly. For this one I made my own. Slightly changed, but borrows heavily from the Breeze design. (Sorry Mark) Main reason I made my own was I will get it powder coated to match the Anniversary frame color vs. the standard semi-gloss black from Breeze. I like to put bulb seal along the front edge where it contacts the underside of the body. Gives a tight seal plus prevents any vibration or rattling.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011082016/IMG_0770_zpsj8hwl9he.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011082016/IMG_0770_zpsj8hwl9he.jpg.html)

Last was the front radiator surround. I’ve deviated from the FF supplied pieces on all my builds. On my Mk3, I made new pieces. Front bottom piece with added bulb seal that jammed inside the front of the body rather than riveting through the body, and new side pieces that were bigger and covered the quick jack mounts. Refined that approach quite a bit on the #7750 build and added an SS screen to protect the radiator. Worked out really well and pretty much duplicated that approach this time around. Fortunately I saved the fixture I used to make the SS screen, which I showed in a previous update. Finished that and made the rest of the pieces. To get these to fit really well, it’s kind of a tedious process. I made patterns out of cardboard, adjusting until they fit the body and radiator profile exactly. Then undercut the front edge the thickness of the bulb seal and reproduced in aluminum. My simple little 30-inch Harbor Freight brake does an adequate job on the bends. The back edge of the front piece bolts through the bottom of the radiator and the Breeze lower radiator mount. There is a steel bracket on the ends of the front piece for the sides. The top of the sides mounts to the frame near the upper radiator mount with 10-32 nutserts. I put gasket material along the back 1-inch flange of the side pieces where they contact the radiator tanks. Then added steel tabs to mount the SS screen.

Disassembled, looks like this:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011082016/IMG_0762_zps78plz6go.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011082016/IMG_0762_zps78plz6go.jpg.html)

Put together, looks like this:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011082016/IMG_0767_zpszwsjkaye.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011082016/IMG_0767_zpszwsjkaye.jpg.html)

I’ll clean up the bulb seal and close those gaps during final assembly after powder coat. The slots in the side panels are for the Darkwater splitter I’ll be using. Yes, again same as #7750. I like the look. The write-up I did for #7750 showing the same idea and final product is here: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/483593-mk4-7750-update-radiator-surround-maybe-now-s-really-done.html

Tomorrow I’m going to drop these parts plus the rear splash guards at the powder coater. That should be it for fabrication and powder coating. We’re gone for 10 days to the left coast starting Friday. Visiting family. Once we get back, I’ll keep working down my to-do list getting ready for paint in December. Sorry for the kind of crummy smart phone pics in this update. I'll get the Canon SLR back out the next time.

BTW, mouse patrol in the new garage workshop is moving along nicely. Score is me 12, mice 0. Haven't seen any "signs" for some days now. I think the word is out. But I'm still watching. :eek:

RP Cobra

11-18-2016, 09:10 PM

edwardb

11-19-2016, 01:46 AM

Paul,
In post 388 you mention using "wedges" to get the pipes parallel to the body. Can you give more information on the wedges?
I really appreciate all of the photos and details. Your build thread has been a huge help.
Thanks,
Rich

Thanks Rich. Glad the thread has been helpful. The side pipe wedges are from Breeze Automotive. http://www.breezeautomotive.com/search.php?search=wedge

Paul Mischenko

11-24-2016, 09:42 AM

Hey Paul, Wanted to you wish you and your family a Happy Thanksgiving. Thanks again for all the time you take to keep you post up to date. It's been a huge help. Enjoy the day. Cheers Paul

edwardb

11-24-2016, 10:11 AM

Hey Paul, Wanted to you wish you and your family a Happy Thanksgiving. Thanks again for all the time you take to keep you post up to date. It's been a huge help. Enjoy the day. Cheers Paul

Thanks! Appreciate the good wishes. Same back to you. :D We had a nice visit with parents and family in Oregon last week, and an early Thanksgiving feast with everyone last Sunday. It was a special time. We all have a lot to be thankful for.

Picked up the last parts at the powder coater yesterday and working to get them installed. 25 days until the build has to be at the painter. Shouldn't be a problem but I need to keep making progress. Miss my heated garage at the old house. Heating (and maybe cooling...) the new garage is on my to-do list, but won't be too soon unfortunately. Too many other projects ahead of it. The basement workshop is nice and warm though. I'll survive.

wareaglescott

11-24-2016, 10:26 AM

Thanks! Appreciate the good wishes. Same back to you. :D We had a nice visit with parents and family in Oregon last week, and an early Thanksgiving feast with everyone last Sunday. It was a special time. We all have a lot to be thankful for.

Picked up the last parts at the powder coater yesterday and working to get them installed. 25 days until the build has to be at the painter. Shouldn't be a problem but I need to keep making progress. Miss my heated garage at the old house. Heating (and maybe cooling...) the new garage is on my to-do list, but won't be too soon unfortunately. Too many other projects ahead of it. The basement workshop is nice and warm though. I'll survive.

Still not sure why you didn't take my up on the offer to keep 7750 in my garage this winter while you get everything taken care of at the new house. 70 degrees here today. At least your car wouldn't have been cold! haha

edwardb

11-24-2016, 06:57 PM

Still not sure why you didn't take my up on the offer to keep 7750 in my garage this winter while you get everything taken care of at the new house. 70 degrees here today. At least your car wouldn't have been cold! haha

There's a pretty simple way to get #7750 to stay warm in your garage. It is for sale you know. :rolleyes:

On a slightly more serious note, I do plan to more actively advertise it and get it sold next year. That Gen 3 Coupe looks very interesting.

edwardb

11-28-2016, 11:49 PM

Away from home for 10 days visiting family in Oregon. While I was gone, the rest of my powder coated parts were completed. That’s it for powder coat finally. Nothing terribly exciting here. I’m either installing for the (hopefully) last time, or doing the final mock-up then will install for good after paint.

First up is the radiator shroud and screen I fabricated and showed in a previous update. Initially I was going to use the same silver-grey Anniversary color for the powder coat, but at the last minute decided on gloss black to give the radiator opening a blacked out appearance. Did one last assembly check on the bench, clearing powder coat as needed from holes, threads, etc. Plus final fit of the bulb seal. Several asked the last time around if it is installed assembled like this. Big no. It will only go in one piece at a time.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011282016/IMG_4400_zpsgwt67nut.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011282016/IMG_4400_zpsgwt67nut.jpg.html)

Now installed. The camera flash makes the silver radiator stand out a bit. In natural light, it almost disappears. As I mentioned in a previous update, the bottom panel is wedged inside the body and attached to the bottom edge of the radiator and through the Breeze lower radiator support with three 6-32 bolts. There are no rivets through the top of the radiator opening like the stock setup. The sides are also wedged in place between the radiator and bulb seal against the body. There is a 10-32 bolt into a nutsert at the very top on each side, and two 10-32 bolts into nutserts on each side into a bracket attached to the bottom panel. The sides completely cover the quick jack mounts and pretty much seal the radiator opening. The screen is held in place with a 10-32 bolt into nutserts on each corner. It's about 1 inch away from the radiator and should protect it well. I have the screen in place for this pic, but will remove until after paint and replace with the cardboard piece I keep over the radiator.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011282016/IMG_4412_zpsjvviswle.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011282016/IMG_4412_zpsjvviswle.jpg.html)

The rear splash panels are powder coated the silver-grey Anniversary color, but I did mask off and spray undercoat on the sides facing the tires. Looks better in the long run blacked out like that, plus cuts down the racket a bit with stuff hitting the panels. I sprayed on Lizard Skin TopCoat (their part number 30106). The same stuff I sprayed over the heat and sound Lizard Skin on the underside of the transmission tunnel cover. It’s not real thick, but seems tough and goes on really nice. I’ll put the same material on the front splash guards later. This is the passenger side. The driver side looks about the same. The hidden bolts I'm using for the tabs on the back of the splash panels are working out great. Holds the panels firmly in place and I like not seeing the bolts showing through on the body.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011282016/IMG_4411_zpswlwncngo.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011282016/IMG_4411_zpswlwncngo.jpg.html)

These are the filler panels I made for the gap in the front of the rear wheel wells. Now powder coated, bulb seal, and installed with more matching painted rivets. Can’t be too neat in there. Passenger side here. Driver side also looks about the same.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011282016/IMG_4410_zpshhp1ycmz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011282016/IMG_4410_zpshhp1ycmz.jpg.html)

I have the radiator cowl cover piece all ready to install, but decided to wait until after paint to final rivet it in place. Checked the fit and all looks good.

Topside:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011282016/IMG_4422_zpsbihozbap.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011282016/IMG_4422_zpsbihozbap.jpg.html)

Looking up through the radiator opening showing how it seals against the underside of the body with bulb seal:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011282016/IMG_4419_zpsquceifao.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011282016/IMG_4419_zpsquceifao.jpg.html)

I did run into one slight problem. I bought a front radiator splitter from Dark Water Customs for #7750. I don’t really think it has any practical purpose at normal cruising speed (or maybe at any speed) but I like the look vs. the round bumper hoop in the front. I decided to duplicate the same thing on this build, but parts weren’t available from Dark Water. I happened to see one come up in the classifieds, so grabbed it. I got a good deal, so not complaining, but turns out it must be an older one because it didn’t fit. Too wide. With the brackets on the quick jack bolts, the splitter was over an inch wider than the mounting locations. Considered several possibilities including leaving it out. But being the stubborn sort determined to make it work. It’s a pretty simple assembly with a frame using round tube on the front and square tube on the back. A piece of aluminum is wrapped around and riveted along the back. I drilled out the rivets, removed the aluminum, and then cut the frame in half. With some J-B Weld (what else?) and a couple rivets, put 6-inch round and square stubs halfway into one side. McMaster had some stock that matched the ID's with just a little persuasion. Then took the extra length out of the other side and mocked up in the radiator opening. This picture is at that halfway point:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011282016/IMG_4404_zpsb139cbne.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2011282016/IMG_4404_zpsb139cbne.jpg.html)

The frame pieces bowed in a bit when cut, but it’s all trimmed and back together now. I’ll trim the aluminum wrap and rivet it back in place. But before I do, will put a full polish on the aluminum like I did on #7750. Will be easier off the frame without the mounting brackets in the way while polishing.

Tomorrow I’m going to start on finishing all the body work, hinges, latches, hood scoop, etc. It’s due at paint three weeks from today. Don’t see any issue with it being ready.

Straversi

11-30-2016, 01:09 AM

Driver’s side footbox from the engine compartment. Several things here. The inside wall, inside top and cover, and small fill piece are 2bking’s designed Coyote modded panels and supplied to me by another very generous forum member. I mentioned these before. I was able to get them to fit quite nicely. The firewall is also his layout, which I fabbed out of .090 inch aluminum. The front panel is also a piece I made. Factory Five powder coated the Mustang footbox panel instead of the Wilwood footbox panel, which a couple other Anniversary kit buyers also found. Upon further review, I found that if I made a couple minor tweaks to the front panel, the other modded panels fit a little better. That was all the excuse I needed. So I made a new one, and without the clutch or wire harness holes, and also shrunk down the steering column hole since I have the bearing mounted on the inside. Looks nice and clean. A lot of messing around for something that is basically unseen once the build is done. But I like it. I’ll need to punch a couple holes for the front harness and brake lines when the time comes and I determine the exact locations.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001212016/IMG_3794_zpsteryfgch.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001212016/IMG_3794_zpsteryfgch.jpg.html)

I noticed that you added the threaded interest to make the top cover of the DS foot box removable. Did you omit the inserts on the top rear of the cover because they will not be accessible when the body is on?
-Steve

edwardb

11-30-2016, 08:22 AM

I noticed that you added the threaded interest to make the top cover of the DS foot box removable. Did you omit the inserts on the top rear of the cover because they will not be accessible when the body is on?
-Steve

Yes, the upper rear of the cover isn't quite as accessible once the body is on. I decided it stayed in place and sealed fine without fasteners in that area. I have several thick layers of Lizard Skin on the back side of the cover, masked to fit exactly into the opening. Acts sort of like a gasket. This pic later in the build is a similar view with the body on and the access cover removed. You can see how those would be harder to reach. Not impossible, but I just chose not to put anything there.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008052016/IMG_4385_zps2jpzldik.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008052016/IMG_4385_zps2jpzldik.jpg.html)

edwardb

12-03-2016, 12:09 PM

Marching my way toward the Dec 19 paint date. A lot of the details I’m describing are re-runs from my last builds. Especially #7750. But I’ll post anyway since I know a number are following this thread.

Finished gapping the doors. I’m happy with how they fit except for the driver door front lower corner. Maybe the Mk5 that will finally get that fixed. Been around for at least two Mk’s now. Still have to install the door latches, but moved to the final gap on the hood. Temporarily taped a number of bumpers around the inside edge of the body, using varying thicknesses to get the hood level with the body. After 3-4 times on and off the hinges, marking and trimming each time, I’m happy with how it fits. Nice even gap all around. Also rounded the edge slightly, but didn’t go crazy with it. The profile match of the hood to the body is probably the best of my builds to date. Nice.

Hood scoop and hood latches were next. I already had the ABS scoop prepped as shown in a previous update. First up is to find the center of the hood and determine the location for the scoop. I like to use a laser level on a tripod. I set it up so it puts down a line from the oil cooler opening all the way over to the trunk lid. Doing this you find the body isn’t completely symmetrical. But with the line across the hood and checking with a tape measure, you can find the best compromise. Since I’ll be doing stripes, it’s even more important to get the scoop in exactly the right place.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012032016/IMG_4425_zps4fbrkfcy.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012032016/IMG_4425_zps4fbrkfcy.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012032016/IMG_4423_zpsvpo3gh2u.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012032016/IMG_4423_zpsvpo3gh2u.jpg.html)

With the centerline on the hood using a Sharpie, now to cut the hole and mount the scoop. Here is where I strongly suggest deviating from the FF instructions. I’ve read several threads where guys have cut the hole in their hood using the provided dimensions and then mounted the scoop. With sometimes bad surprises. Really not good. Instead, find the location for the scoop, drill all the mounting holes. Then use the mounting holes to determine where to cut. Aside from preventing any huge disasters, it looks better IMO to have the underside opening closely follow the outline of the mounting bolts.

First position the scoop the proper distance from the back of the hood, the rear center hole exactly on the hood center line, and the front corners the same exact distance from the center line. These visual cues really come into play with the stripes. Drill the holes a few at a time on each side adding bolts as you go, paying close attention that it’s staying flat and in the right location.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012032016/IMG_4430_zpsnl578e5v.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012032016/IMG_4430_zpsnl578e5v.jpg.html)

When done, remove the scoop and flip it over. Now lay out the cut based on the hole pattern. I put the cutout about 3/4-inch away from the holes, and roughly followed the curve at the back and a radius on the front corners.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012032016/IMG_4427_zpsjv1pqrvh.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012032016/IMG_4427_zpsjv1pqrvh.jpg.html)

Now cut and trim to the line. The instructions say to use a jig saw. I tried this a bit on my last build and even with the finest and sharpest blade I had, still chipped the gel coat. So switched to a Dremel with a cut-off wheel, which is what I did here. Then cleaned up the edges with drum sanders in my hand drill. Same as a lot of the body work. Once the edges were clean and straight, pushed HSRF down into the gap between the outer and inner hood layers. Took a couple passes to get it clean and straight. Hint: I see some guys using clamps or whatever to pull the top and bottom together. Suggest not doing that. Just let the two sides lay naturally and fill. It’s going to look better without any waves or curves.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012032016/IMG_4428_zpsfvysq7si.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012032016/IMG_4428_zpsfvysq7si.jpg.html)

Bolted on the scoop and it’s done for now. I’m using 10-32 SS button head screws like many others and also my last build. Nylon washers on the inside. I’ll replace these regular nuts with SS cap nuts at final assembly.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012032016/IMG_4433_zpsui1zdech.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012032016/IMG_4433_zpsui1zdech.jpg.html)

edwardb

12-03-2016, 12:10 PM

Next up are the hood latches. I mount them 12 inches each side of the center line. I don’t remember what the instructions say. But this dimension is from some build threads a number of years ago. They need to be far enough out to make sure the corner of the hood is pulled down. I’m not a fan of the provided self-tapping screws holding the handles into the top layer of the hood. To be honest, I’m not a fan of self-tapping screws for much of anything. I always prefer machine bolts into metal threads of some kind. Especially in this case because these handles get lots of use lifting and lowering the hood. Some guys put bolts all the way through with washers and nuts on the back of the hood. Certainly strong enough. But the best location for the handle isn’t exactly centered over the rib on the underside, so they end up a little close to one edge. Plus the hardware is exposed. Instead, I like to bond a nut plate underneath the top layer of the hood. These are the same McMaster 98001A125 10-32 nut plates I’ve used elsewhere on the build. First cut the necessary holes and slots at the handle locations. Then bond the nut plates with HSRF under the mounting locations. Works really well.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012032016/IMG_4437_zpsnppxxpms.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012032016/IMG_4437_zpsnppxxpms.jpg.html)

The other thing I like to do with the hood handle is to support where the shaft comes out of the rib on the back of the hood with a bushing, as seen in the above pic. Instead of just having it clear through the raw fiberglass. Does two things. Looks a lot more finished. But more importantly gives cantilever like support to the whole handle assembly and shaft. Noticeably improves how the handle feels with no wobble. To install, I had the handles bolted in place with a clearance hole on the back side. Then put a little HSRF on the flange of the bushings and pushed into place over the latch shaft. When the HSRF set, removed the handles and added more HSRF in the inside. They're not going anywhere and line up perfectly. This is how it looks on the inside of the hood. Will get painted over and look nice and clean.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012032016/IMG_0816_zpsiwz6pte7.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012032016/IMG_0816_zpsiwz6pte7.jpg.html)

The hood is done and back on the car.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012032016/IMG_0815_zpslrx4dmuy.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012032016/IMG_0815_zpslrx4dmuy.jpg.html)

A little more work to install the brackets for the catches on the hood opening. Then the trunk lid.

edwardb

12-10-2016, 10:36 PM

One week until delivery for paint, and just a few things left on my list. I have the hood, trunk, and doors now officially done and fitted. Good thing. It’s been too cold outside so I’ve been doing some sanding in the basement and tired of cleaning up the dust. Thankfully that’s now done. I’m happy with how the gaps all turned out and how everything fits. I tried to tighten the gaps just a bit from #7750. Those turned out OK, but figured I could improve on them a little. I set the gaps on the new build unfinished the same as #7750 is finished. Once filled and painted, should be a bit closer and what I am shooting for. I put a pretty large radius on the underside front edges of the doors and trunk lid. This will help to prevent any interference when opening and closing. Not necessary to do anything special on the hood as the geometry of the hinges lifts it out of the opening with room to spare. The build looks like this as of late yesterday:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_0824_zps9dghstkb.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_0824_zps9dghstkb.jpg.html)

Much of what I’m doing now is pretty routine. But I’ll outline a couple of special things I did. As can be seen in the picture above, I’m going with dual roll bars. Nothing too noteworthy here. These are the chromed Mk4 rolls bars from Factory Five. One came with the kit, the other I added. I know dual roll bars are not faithful to the originals (and some really don’t like them) but caved to the many questions I’ve received in the past about why I don’t care about my passenger. Ok, I do care for my passengers, but that's not the real reason. The real reason is someday I may get enough nerve to do some track time and most places won’t allow an instructor without the second roll bar. They installed pretty easily. The factory cutouts on the DS were pretty close. Just needed a little tweaking. The marks for the PS were in the ballpark, but I just took it slow and easy until they fit through with a little clearance. I’ve got Tangent blind attachments in each. I had previously fit the roll bars to the mounts and got all the holes drilled before mounting the body. Way easier then. Made this final step pretty easy.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_4451_zpsdihoamw0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_4451_zpsdihoamw0.jpg.html)

I showed the hood latches in the last update. The remaining step was to add the aluminum catches on the underside of the hood opening. The kit provides a couple of pieces that work OK. But some years ago I saw an idea in another build thread about cutting a profile into the catches that matches the top profile of the hood latch. Gives them a nice snap when they’re turned into place and they stay centered. I’ve done that on each of my builds. Takes a bit larger piece of aluminum angle stock. I used 1 by 1 inch angle, 2 inches long. Mounted them on the underside of the hood opening just behind the inside of the hood opening lip. Then determined where the latch would hit at that point, and cut the profile as pictured. It works really well. Thank you to whoever had that idea. The other thing I do is bolt them on now, burying the head of the bolts in the hood lip with a layer of HSRF. Then the bolts will be hidden when painted.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_0826_zpshjbc55kl.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_0826_zpshjbc55kl.jpg.html)

Next up was the trunk lid. Much like what I already showed with the hood hinge attachments, I like to bond the trunk hinge attachments in place with HSRF and the provided hardware and then paint over. Looks a lot cleaner and more finished. So after fitting the trunk lid and adjusting the hinges, bonded the attachments to the underside of the lid. Note the adjustment of these pieces is only side-to-side. So once they’re in the right location and the lid centered, they don’t need to be adjusted any further. It’s safe to lock them down. The actual hinges allow all the further adjustment necessary. Once bonded in place, I fill the slots with HSRF as well and add a little filet around the edges. Look nice once painted.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_4447_zpsyi6zx5i6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_4447_zpsyi6zx5i6.jpg.html)

edwardb

12-10-2016, 10:37 PM

With the trunk lid trimmed and fitted, the hinges installed and adjusted, I installed the handle and catch rod in the stock locations. All worked well and the trunk pulled into the opening perfectly. Nice. Another decision for the trunk lid is some kind of prop rod to hold it open. Well, unless you like dropping it on your fingers or (worse yet) your head. I’ve tried it. Don’t do it. I’ve used Mike Everson’s gas shocks on my last two builds. The Mk3 design with external trunk hinges went between the front trunk opening and the underside of the lid. Those worked well, but took up a little space in the trunk. The Mk4 design with internal trunk hinges presses on the hinges from the rear cockpit wall. Many use these and are very happy with them. But I was never particularly happy with how they work in #7750. They cause the lid to be pushed slightly above the opening, and no matter how low I adjust the hinges, I can't get it quite right. Note that build is a fairly early Mk4 with the round style hinges. Maybe the newer style square hinges in this build would be better. But I decided not to use gas struts and instead went with the old school style latching prop from **********. Found a few threads that described where and how to install, and pretty much followed that. Another option would be a manual prop rod like from Breeze or others, but I wanted something a little more automatic.

I drilled out the rivet on the lower mounting bracket and put it on the other side so it was oriented toward the trunk lip. I replaced the rivet with a 1/4-inch shoulder bolt from (where else) McMaster. Liked it so much I replaced the rivet on the top bracket as well. I adjusted the angle of the lower bracket a bit until the arm hit the right spot on the lid. The material bends pretty easily in a bench vise. Then bolted the bracket to the lip of the trunk opening. These also are bonded in with HSRF and will get painted over. Note the bumpers taped in place are just temporary. I'll install bulb seal around the trunk opening after paint, fitted around this attachment point.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_0830_zpsnshyn7vv.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_0830_zpsnshyn7vv.jpg.html)

For the attachment point on the lid, I didn’t think just putting self-tapping screws into the lid liner would be strong enough. So I made a little plate from mild steel with two 10-32 tapped holes.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_4446_zpskyd1daib.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_4446_zpskyd1daib.jpg.html)

Took a little practicing, but found I could fish it into the right place through the center access hole using a piece of wire and some double back tape. Put some HSRF on it, and put it in place permanently on the underside of the liner. Should be nice and strong.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_4456_zps3bc9r3en.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_4456_zps3bc9r3en.jpg.html)

Here’s the prop rod completely installed. I’m happy with how it turned out. It works as expected.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_4458_zps17armvi0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_4458_zps17armvi0.jpg.html)

Finally, did the door latches. This is pretty routine. I bonded the spacers to the doors with HSRF. (Catch a theme here?) They too will get painted in place. I installed nutserts in the metal liner that's under the glass skin. So the door latches will be nice and solid. I did the same thing on #7750 and went fine. This time around though on both doors the lower outside hole (RH bottom in this pic) ended up directly over where the underside metal bends and turns down. So I installed a blind mounting nut (or T-nut as we used to call them) on the underside of the spacer. It’s all buried in the HSRF and the spacer isn’t going anywhere with the bond plus the other three through bolts. But added some time to what was supposed to be a simple task.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_4448_zpsepycasg1.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_4448_zpsepycasg1.jpg.html)

This is one of the door latches installed. I’ll replace the stacked washers with a spacer during final assembly after paint and everything is finally adjusted. I post this picture mainly to pass on a tip about how to easily install these latches. For my first build I really struggled first installing the catch and then trying to align the latch on the door. Then I read on the forum (Jeff Kleiner maybe?) to (1) Clip the latch in the catch, (2) Loosely bolt the catch in the door frame, using washers as needed, (3) Then close the fitted door against the latch base, adjusting the catch until it sits flat in the right location. Mark this location on the door, and attach to the door. Works great.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_4460_zpsrxubyea1.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_4460_zpsrxubyea1.jpg.html)

Last picture and again nothing too earthshaking. Here I’m fitting and installing the sill pieces. The significance though is my box of aluminum parts is now officially empty. That’s it. Last pieces.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_4465_zps5gdqhyep.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_4465_zps5gdqhyep.jpg.html)

Today a good buddy dropped over to check out my build, plus see our new place and return some borrowed tools. I hadn’t started the Coyote for quite a few weeks. But of course I had to start it for him. It started instantly like always it seems and sounds great. I’m just so impressed with it, now that I’m past the challenge of getting it installed. Can’t wait to really drive it. On a side note we also found out the CO detector in my garage works as designed. The piercing alarm sound reminded us to open the garage door.

My next update should be dropping the build at the painter. Whoo-hoo!

Jazzman

12-11-2016, 01:19 AM

That Gen 3 Coupe looks very interesting.

Oh please don't start the gen3 coupe too soon. I'm having difficulty keeping up with you as it is!! :)

edwardb

12-11-2016, 08:00 AM

Oh please don't start the gen3 coupe too soon. I'm having difficulty keeping up with you as it is!! :)

A coupe build, if it happens, wouldn't be until later next year. You have plenty of time to catch up. Even though it's not a race...

You know, it does go faster if you don't cut the body in half.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Misc%20Pics/th_homer_simpson_doh_02.gif (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Misc%20Pics/homer_simpson_doh_02.gif.html)

wareaglescott

12-11-2016, 08:28 AM

A coupe build, if it happens, wouldn't be until later next year. You have plenty of time to catch up. Even though it's not a race...

You know, it does go faster if you don't cut the body in half.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Misc%20Pics/th_homer_simpson_doh_02.gif (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%203%20Roadster%20Build/Misc%20Pics/homer_simpson_doh_02.gif.html)

LOL! Wait to you see what Kevin has planned for the Gen 3 build. 6 piece body that somehow transforms into a '74 Bronco

Vette1972

12-11-2016, 08:35 AM

It would be interesting to see Edwardb work his magic on a Gen 3 coupe. Be a great build to follow.

Straversi

12-12-2016, 03:28 PM

First order of business is the screen. I'm using a 3641-24X36 medium mesh stainless screen, #6 x .035 wire, 24 x 36" sheet, from Pegasus Racing. I'm making a frame out of 1/8 x 3/4 inch aluminum stock from Lowes using a fixture I made during the last build. I'll get this riveted together, trimmed, and then make the bottom and side pieces. More to come.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Radiator%20Surround/IMG_0748_zpskkg4apvn.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Radiator%20Surround/IMG_0748_zpskkg4apvn.jpg.html)

Paul,
Are you sandwiching the screen between two frames or just riveting the screen to the 4 pieces of frame in view? Looks like the 4 frame pieces butt up against each other with the screen keeping it all together? Looks great, BTW.

-Steve

bansheekev

12-12-2016, 05:09 PM

I shamelessly used Paul's design last year to make a radiator screen. It sandwiches the screen between the two aluminum frames. I used the same materially as Paul except my frames are tig welded together. See below...

61852

Btw, took the summer off from the Bronco project, finally getting going again! Look for an update in the next couple weeks!

Kevin

edwardb

12-12-2016, 07:41 PM

Paul, Are you sandwiching the screen between two frames or just riveting the screen to the 4 pieces of frame in view? Looks like the 4 frame pieces butt up against each other with the screen keeping it all together? Looks great, BTW. -Steve

I shamelessly used Paul's design last year to make a radiator screen. It sandwiches the screen between the two aluminum frames. I used the same materially as Paul except my frames are tug welded together. Kevin

Kevin is correct. Two frames with the screen sandwiched between. I see now that wasn't obvious from the pictures or text I posted. Also not obvious is I did a lap joint on the corners. The top frame (visible in the pic) has the vertical pieces go all the way to the bottom. The bottom layer (not visible) has the horizontal pieces go all the way to the outside. I have a rivet through the lapped area in the top corners. The lower corners have a through bolt that also holds the assembly in place. Hope this all makes sense.

Welding like Kevin did is a great idea. Unfortunately, that's something I've never done or learned. Need to think about that some day.

Straversi

12-18-2016, 12:00 PM

......So that will be my strategy from the start the next time around. I used Remflex gaskets on the headers and a combination of studs on the hard to reach locations and cap screws for the balance. Really hope that’s all set for a real long time. PS header added after the engine was in its final location. Pretty easy to reach all the bolts on that side.....

I used Whitby 3/8-inch spacers under both motor mounts. It’s very close to level, with the PS being just slightly lower than the DS

Sorry to bother you with little stuff but I have a few questions from this excerpt. Ford lists the manifold studs as M10. Do you know pitch that goes with the diameter designation? Not familiar with metric fasteners. I guess the real question is what cap screws did you use to replace the studs.
Is there a specific Remflex gasket you used?
How any of the 3/8" spacers are used?
Thanks,
-Steve

edwardb

12-18-2016, 12:38 PM

Sorry to bother you with little stuff but I have a few questions from this excerpt. Ford lists the manifold studs as M10. Do you know pitch that goes with the diameter designation? Not familiar with metric fasteners. I guess the real question is what cap screws did you use to replace the studs.
Is there a specific Remflex gasket you used?
How any of the 3/8" spacers are used?
Thanks,
-Steve

No need to apologize. These things are all about the details... My header bolts were M10 Thread, 1.25mm Pitch. In addition to the several Ford stock studs that I used on the DS, the rest I used McMaster 96144A261 Metric Class 12.9 Socket Head Cap Screw M10 Thread, 30mm Long, 1.25mm Pitch installed with high temp silicone on the threads. My only caution is to make sure that is really the right size for your engine. FF mentions in their Coyote installation instructions that Ford used different size bolts in some engines. The specific header gasket I used was Remflex Inc. 3069 from Summit Racing. Seemed to fit perfectly. For the engine spacers, I started with one Whitby 3/8-inch spacer on each motor mount. But later in the build thread, noted where I removed those and replaced with the 1/2-inch spacers now available from Factory Five. Instead of sitting on top of the motor mount, they are assembled inside the motor mounts. Vastly superior IMO and worked great.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008052016/th_IMG_4376_zps6lbotrez.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008052016/IMG_4376_zps6lbotrez.jpg.html)

edwardb

12-20-2016, 10:11 AM

Big day yesterday. Successfully delivered the build to the painter and we’re off and running on that big step. First a couple minor updates.

On my last two builds, I installed transmission tunnel vents supplied by simple scoops inside the tunnel. I found this idea back on my first build on the Mk4build.com website. The transmission tunnel has positive air pressure and when the car is moving, the vents can provide fresh air into the footboxes. It seems counterintuitive, but in many (most?) cases the air is ambient temperature. Perhaps not as effective or as much volume as powered vents. But certainly way simpler to install. This mod has been discussed some on the forum. Some with good success and it worked as expected. Others found the air heated or even quite hot. My experience has been slightly mixed. On the Mk3, both vents provided ambient air and worked great. On #7750, the DS is ambient and fine. The PS is just slightly warm (not hot) and actually my wife likes it most of the time. I went back and forth on this build deciding whether I wanted to install them. It seems with the very large Coyote installation and headers maybe more likely the air would be heated. But I decided to go ahead and give them a try. We’ll see what happens. Worst case they’re cheap heaters that I can plug with a piece of foam when not needed. I used Billet Specialties 38110 vents and homemade scoops that I had powder coated. I cut the top off the vent tubes and glued them into carefully located holes in the tunnel. Then riveted the scoops on the inside. Finally, threaded the bezels into the threaded tubes. The bezels will be temporarily removed to install the carpet.

Driver’s side:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012202016/IMG_0853_zpsws1l8bys.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012202016/IMG_0853_zpsws1l8bys.jpg.html)

Passenger side:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012202016/IMG_0852_zpszqvs352a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012202016/IMG_0852_zpszqvs352a.jpg.html)

Another small detail is the rear license plate holder. I did the Jeff Kleiner mod to the rear light to allow a full size license plate to fit between the holder and the trunk handle. Shown in an earlier update along with changing to LED bulbs. There is yet another thread on this subject (with a lot of complaining. I was tempted to post the beat a dead horse GIF, but I resisted…) but one forum member posted a drawing of a bracket that I liked a lot better than the plate I made for #7750 that provided new mounting holes for the license plate above the existing ones. Still need to finish a couple details and decide how to finish. Just barely seen, but I likely will polish it. We’ll see. Looks like this right now. I especially like it because the license plate bolts go into threaded holes. Saves trying to thread nuts onto the back side, which is tight plus also right against the paint. I made it from some 3/16-inch aluminum I had on hand.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012202016/IMG_0864_zpssxsu9rgr.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012202016/IMG_0864_zpssxsu9rgr.jpg.html)

edwardb

12-20-2016, 10:12 AM

So moving on to paint, several days ago I completed my “before paint” punch list, took everything off that needed to come off, and I was ready to transport to the shop.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0854_zpsm9fnn8po.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0854_zpsm9fnn8po.jpg.html)

My SE trailer has been sitting in the driveway and the recipient of several snowstorms and lots of cold weather. Took some time on Sunday to dig it out. Then yesterday, with the temp just above zero, got it hitched up and the new build loaded. I scraped my driveway as best I could. The car drove into the trailer pretty OK, but did my first official burn out in the process. Snow/ice assisted of course.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0857_zps9i9js4f3.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0857_zps9i9js4f3.jpg.html)

40 miles down to the shop, and fortunately they had enough room for an inside delivery. That was a nice treat. They were ready for me, and had me take it directly into the booth. Nice! Rick, who will be painting my car, is on the left in this picture. Still smiling. That’s good. The car drew quite a crowd as I drove it in. Open headers will do that. What a beautiful clean shop they have.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0860_zpspfvrbiyz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0860_zpspfvrbiyz.jpg.html)

As I was wrapping up ready to leave, I could see Rick was already starting to work. By the end of the day, he texted some pictures. Here are a couple:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/A__E61E_zpsxjxpszmo.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/A__E61E_zpsxjxpszmo.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/A__AC52_zpsu5b9gwed.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/A__AC52_zpsu5b9gwed.jpg.html)

They’re painting it “body on” as I mentioned before. He said he would do his best to keep dust and whatever out of everything, so has it wrapped up as the first step. Promise is 3-4 weeks to complete. I feel good about this timeline. We’re rocking now!

Vette1972

12-20-2016, 10:35 AM

Nice. Another milestone reached. Red?

RRussellTx

12-20-2016, 11:02 AM

Very excited for you!
Hopefully Rick keeps the pictures coming through the process.
Did you explain your amazingly high standards for documenting the build? :)

edwardb

12-20-2016, 11:12 AM

Nice. Another milestone reached. Red?

Is there another color? :confused: It will be the same candy red as #7750, with a slight difference.

Very excited for you!
Hopefully Rick keeps the pictures coming through the process.
Did you explain your amazingly high standards for documenting the build? :)

I told him I would really appreciate pics along the way, and he didn't disappoint for the first day. I'm pretty confident I'll get many more. If not, I'll be asking for them...

wareaglescott

12-20-2016, 12:42 PM

Wow sure is exciting to see it in the paint both. Look forward to picture updates along the way!

RR20AC

12-20-2016, 01:59 PM

Paul, very exciting seeing it off to paint. Thanks for all the details.

WIS89

12-20-2016, 05:46 PM

Paul-

Very nice, I am excited for you! It's also nice that you know what kind of work to expect. That sure must offer you some comfort.

I, like the others, look forward to in progress pictures. Red is sure a nice color, and I look forward to your surprise!

Merry Christmas to you and your family!

Regards,

Steve

edwardb

12-22-2016, 12:31 AM

2-1/2 days into paint and I've been getting a steady stream of update pics. Here are just a few of them. Making nice progress. Parting lines are all ground down, filled, and rough sanded. Body matching and filling is underway. Doors, trunk, and hood filled and rough sanded. Including the dreaded DS door. Shop is shut down until next Tuesday for Christmas, but feeling really good about how things are going. Tomorrow I'm mailing my Detroit Autorama application. Show is end of February, and looks favorable to be ready in time. Merry Christmas everyone!

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/A__9EEC_zpsw1k0x25k.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/A__9EEC_zpsw1k0x25k.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/A__30BF_zpsljmqkdcl.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/A__30BF_zpsljmqkdcl.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/A__0416_zpsaurwj9cc.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/A__0416_zpsaurwj9cc.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/A__CB4A_zpsqo8ijrir.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/A__CB4A_zpsqo8ijrir.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/A__3AE5_zpsqdimo4vd.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/A__3AE5_zpsqdimo4vd.jpg.html)

Dave Howard

12-22-2016, 03:04 PM

They’re painting it “body on” as I mentioned before. He said he would do his best to keep dust and whatever out of everything, so has it wrapped up as the first step. Promise is 3-4 weeks to complete. I feel good about this timeline. We’re rocking now![/QUOTE]

After a 12 page meg blog, outlining detail detail detail, there must be a good reason for NOT taking the body off for the paint.

edwardb

12-22-2016, 05:02 PM

After a 12 page meg blog, outlining detail detail detail, there must be a good reason for NOT taking the body off for the paint.

:confused: Not sure what you mean exactly.

But FWIW, this shop has done them both ways -- body off and body on -- and prefers body on. They believe it preserves the alignment achieved when fitting and installing the body and panels and doing the body work. Plus prevents handling the painted body off the chassis. My first two were body off and they went back on fine. And I know it's the most common approach. But that's what they wanted to do and I've seen others they did that way and they turned out great.

Paul Mischenko

12-23-2016, 03:30 PM

edwardb

12-24-2016, 10:09 AM

Paul. Wishing u and the family along with all the other fellow builders a Merry Christmas, happy holidays and a all the best for 2017. I'm certainly grateful to have the opportunity to undertake this build and can't thank you enough for the detailed posts. They certainly given me lots of ideas and help. Cheers Paul

Thanks for the kind words Paul. The response to this build thread has been pretty amazing and it's been fun to share the experience. I'm expecting 2017 to start strong with the completion of this build. :D

Merry Christmas to you and your family as well.

edwardb

12-29-2016, 11:27 PM

My painter is doing a great job of texting me pictures as the paint job is progressing. Received these pics today of progress made since starting back up after the Christmas break.

He promised he would do everything possible to keep everything clean as possible. Even has the underside masked off.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0880_zpsh5ibqeqt.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0880_zpsh5ibqeqt.jpg.html)

Final fill and panel matching.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0881_zpsewzhzhbx.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0881_zpsewzhzhbx.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0882_zpsx3eorstc.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0882_zpsx3eorstc.jpg.html)

PPG DP90 epoxy primer.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0886_zpsxmcaf2ur.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0886_zpsxmcaf2ur.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0885_zps9e4kaqwg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0885_zps9e4kaqwg.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0884_zpsjavdir11.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0884_zpsjavdir11.jpg.html)

edwardb

12-29-2016, 11:28 PM

High build polyester primer/surfacer, just put on late today.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0887_zpsqorai4rv.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0887_zpsqorai4rv.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0888_zpswj7ufvda.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0888_zpswj7ufvda.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0889_zpsm0rmzqxg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0889_zpsm0rmzqxg.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0890_zpssfpnc2z7.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0890_zpssfpnc2z7.jpg.html)

I couldn't be more pleased with how it's looking so far. Rick is doing an amazing job. Panel matching, doors, etc. all look really good. He said now several days of block sanding, then hopefully the finish primer. Then maybe we'll see some color.

I submitted my Detroit Autorama application. It's in late February. It will be tight, but should be ready by then. I've shown the other two builds there and really enjoyed it. Looking forward to having this build there. It's an amazing show if you're in the area. There are similar shows all over the country in this series, but the Detroit show is the big one including the Riddler award competition.

I have all the remaining parts ready to put on the build when it comes back from paint. Everything is staged and I've pretty much run out of things to do until I get it back. In the meantime, I'm filling my time doing the demolition of our master bedroom and bathroom in preparation for the contractor to do our remodel hopefully starting soon. I figured a little sweat equity tearing stuff out wouldn't hurt. Busted up a cast iron tub the other day. Now have the bathroom nearly to the studs. Tomorrow I'm going to break out the Sawzall and a wall is coming down. This is pretty hard work for my office hardened body. I'm ready for this to be done and get back on the build!

Jeff Kleiner

12-30-2016, 06:15 AM

Wow, not even pulling the moving panels (doors, hood and trunk lid). I'm intrigued and will be watching to see how the undersides/insides/jambs are addressed.

Jeff

edwardb

12-30-2016, 07:16 AM

Wow, not even pulling the moving panels (doors, hood and trunk lid). I'm intrigued and will be watching to see how the undersides/insides/jambs are addressed.

Jeff

Hey Jeff. I was wondering the same thing myself last night when looking at the pics. I'm pretty sure the hood and trunk are loose, so maybe they were done on the backside and then set back into place. I'm not as sure about the doors. It's something I'll ask about, but very confident Rick knows what he's doing.

stevo7896

12-31-2016, 02:56 AM

rickscobra

12-31-2016, 07:15 AM

Even though my build is complete, I would pay big bucks for a copy of Paul's forum submissions to have as a reference manual. His posts certainly provided valuable guidance as I proceeded through the build process. Thanks Paul.

KDubU

12-31-2016, 07:56 AM

Wow! That is what I call one efficient painter. Hell I would pay a premium to get a painter who would meet his timelines.

edwardb

12-31-2016, 08:01 AM

Build is looking beautiful !! It looks like that shop, must be run meticulous. Matches your build. Gotta say your build threads have been very helpful. My vote is you should rewrite the next Factory Five Manuals as your next big project. Id buy it

Even though my build is complete, I would pay big bucks for a copy of Paul's forum submissions to have as a reference manual. His posts certainly provided valuable guidance as I proceeded through the build process. Thanks Paul.

Thanks guys. Appreciate the generous comments. Personally, I think the Factory Five manual serves a purpose. Plus if you haven't seen earlier versions (pre-Mk4) you may not realize how much it has improved. The biggest challenge IMO is the Roadster can be built with so many variations it's just not possible to cover them all in a lot of detail. Plus not too many of us do a stock build, whatever that is. There was a thread about that not too long ago and (no surprise) it turned into a list of modifications. I guess we can't help ourselves. :o

edwardb

12-31-2016, 08:09 AM

Wow! That is what I call one efficient painter. Hell I would pay a premium to get a painter who would meet his timelines.

Well, it's not done yet. But they delivered #7750 exactly when they said they would. So confident this will be the same. I don't have experience with a lot of different shops, but this one is different than any other one I've dealt with. Once a car is in the work queue, that's the only project they work on until it's done. In this case, I waited 2+ months for my start date, but when it arrived they started work on the same day. I agree. Impressive. It's a high end shop, only doing custom work. No insurance collision repair going on here. So not cheap. But wasn't the most expensive I got quotes from either. Plus they're local for me so no transportation costs.

KDubU

12-31-2016, 08:43 AM

Well, it's not done yet. But they delivered #7750 exactly when they said they would. So confident this will be the same. I don't have experience with a lot of different shops, but this one is different than any other one I've dealt with. Once a car is in the work queue, that's the only project they work on until it's done. In this case, I waited 2+ months for my start date, but when it arrived they started work on the same day. I agree. Impressive. It's a high end shop, only doing custom work. No insurance collision repair going on here. So not cheap. But wasn't the most expensive I got quotes from either. Plus they're local for me so no transportation costs.

That's the way it should be. I know not all these cars come together perfectly when prepping the car for paint but giving an estimated completion in weeks and blowing that by month(s) indicates to me a problem that was not communicated. Communication is key to keeping happy customers and it looks like your guy is doing that in spades. Can wait to see your blue roadster :D.

Vette1972

12-31-2016, 08:44 AM

Paul,

The primer paint looks good enough to drive as is. Great work by the shop. You have to be happy with the look at this point. I've really enjoyed your thread on this build. Red Soon!

Thanks again,
Len

edwardb

01-06-2017, 07:20 AM

Received another batch of pics last night from my painter. Doesn't look too different, but I'm not sure he feels that way after spending three days block sanding. I remain very happy (and impressed) with how everything looks, how the panels and doors fit, etc. There was a question about panels, doors, jambs, etc. Jambs are done now as can be seen in the pics. Everything is off the car now. He said he will prime doors, hood, and trunk lid today. I'm thinking we're going to see some color next week.

On the home front, my demo for our remodel is 100% done and cleaned up. Had to rent a demolition hammer from Home Depot to get the last of the tile and cement board off the floor. I'd still be chiseling if I hadn't. What a mess. Yesterday I just about finished getting everything loaded into the dumpster. This demo plus all the junk I took out of the basement right before we moved in is filling up a 30 yard dumpster. Will get that done today and then really am ready for paint to be done. Received a call from the Autorama main guy. Had a couple questions about my app, but looks like I'm in. Hope to score a nice spot on the show floor. Won't know until move-in. But there's also the small matter of getting the build done. :p

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/A__7D40_zpsfezk0cbg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/A__7D40_zpsfezk0cbg.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0912_zpswmmgf6gq.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0912_zpswmmgf6gq.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0911_zpsygavnujk.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0911_zpsygavnujk.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0905_zpslylhfuin.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0905_zpslylhfuin.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0906_zpsimwog5ma.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0906_zpsimwog5ma.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0909_zpsjiafbhvw.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0909_zpsjiafbhvw.jpg.html)

edwardb

01-08-2017, 11:31 PM

Today I finished a few more details. My punch list is now completely done with as many things as I can think of completed and now waiting for my build to be back from paint. If all goes according to plan, I should have 20-30 days after paint to have the build ready for Autorama. Should be plenty of time, even at my pace. But I’ve tried to get everything as ready as I can. This update will show a few of those, most bordering a little on OCD. But that’s how it is.

I like wind wings and visors. The ones I have are the Factory Five versions, scored for half price at the 2015 Open House. They were the very first parts bought for this build. I also really like the Breeze wind wing installed rear view mirrors. I’ve had them on each of my builds. Not cheap, but super high quality and you can really see out the back with them.

First up for the visors. Mounted the brackets on the plexi panels. Then proceeded to put the mounting clips on the windshield. This gets a lot of forum discussion. Unfortunately, this has been the source of multiple windshield breaks. Right inside the mounting holes on the top of the windshield frame is a rubber gasket and not far behind that is glass. Get into the glass with much force and bad things happen. Some mount the visors on the top channel and avoid the visor mounting holes completely. I’ve not found that necessary. First, the visors come with 6-32 flat head mounting screws. They did not thread into the provided holes. Some interpret this as plating in the threads, get out a 6-32 tap, and you can guess the rest. Some have gone so far as to take the complete windshield apart so the holes could be tapped. I’ve had one apart, and while not real difficult, still something I prefer not to do. The answer is the threads aren’t 6-32. At least the ones I’ve done. They’re M3 metric threads. M3 x 0.5 mm go in perfectly. The next thing is to make sure they are the exact right length, and don’t go any further than just inside the frame. My local Ace had some M3 x 6mm long SS screws. But I found a better choice at McMaster. 90258A173 are 5mm long and a nicer looking oval head. They fit the provided mounting clips perfectly. Using a pin gauge, I measured each hole and carefully took a little off the end of each screw so it went in only as far as necessary. Just a touch on the sanding disk was about all it took for each. Then mounted all four clips. Not too exciting, but this is one of them. Note I also drilled a small countersink for the visor mounting set screw on each mounting clip at the location determined in a quick mock-up. Gives them a solid lock.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001082017/IMG_0925_zpsydsschrx.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001082017/IMG_0925_zpsydsschrx.jpg.html)

Next was the wind wings. There are several ways to mount these (which side to have the brackets, etc.) but with the Breeze mirrors needing to be on the inside, pretty much only one way they can go. The mirrors come with mounting screws. But the problem is the mirrors are threaded for 10-24, while the visor mounting hardware is all 10-32. So if used as is, there would be oval Phillips head machine screws on the top bracket, and round slotted head screws and acorn nuts on the bottom bracket. My OCD kicking in again. What I did was take 10-24 bolts that had an unthreaded section, trimmed the heads off, and cut about 1/4-inch of 10-32 threads onto each. Then threaded them into four of the 10-32 acorn nuts with some red Loctite. Instant 10-24 bolts with matching acorn nut heads. This is the third time I’ve done this. My other builds I did exactly the same thing.

These are the assembled wind wings with the Breeze mirrors, ready to mount on the windshield after it goes on the car. Not pictured, but I also put small countersinks in the windshield side frames for the wind wing set screws, like already shown for the visors.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001082017/IMG_0929_zpsoreaawy0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001082017/IMG_0929_zpsoreaawy0.jpg.html)

Top and bottom mounting hardware (visible from outside the car) all match. Mirror is on the right hand side in this pic. Note I also only remove the backing paper from the mounting areas until final installation.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001082017/IMG_0932_zpsqocdihcl.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001082017/IMG_0932_zpsqocdihcl.jpg.html)

Doesn’t add much, but this is a closer view of the acorn headed bolts.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001082017/IMG_0930_zpsifby84go.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001082017/IMG_0930_zpsifby84go.jpg.html)

Another modification I really like is a top mounted center rear view mirror versus mounting it on the body above the dash. Dark Water Customs has supplied the top windshield mounting bracket I used on my previous builds. Not as easy to get now, but I put one on the Dark Water wish list and received it some weeks later. When I went to mount it this weekend though, found the supplied hex nuts didn’t engage the ends of the opening quite well enough. So I tapped 5mm – 8 threads into two rectangular pieces made from steel nut plates. They fit into the slot and go far enough in to hold better. Here’s a pic of them installed in the proper location in the top of the windshield with a bit of JB Weld to keep them from sliding around. Also seen in this pic is 1/4-inch OD vacuum line pushed into the slot in the top of the windshield. For those of us not planning to install a top, filling that slot gives it a nice finished and trimmed look. Saw this in another build thread some years ago and have copied it since. The Dark Water bracket covers the ends of the tube showing here.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001082017/IMG_0921_zpsnyz9rcty.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001082017/IMG_0921_zpsnyz9rcty.jpg.html)

Finally, I took four pieces of carpet to the local auto upholstery shop that’s done a few other parts for this build and had binding sewn on the edges. The very first time I saw a Mk4 Roadster I was a bit surprised to see the raw edge of carpet along the sill by the door openings. The Mk3 carpet wrapped around this edge in one piece. But the Mk4 was changed to separate pieces. So for #7750, I had binding sewn on this edge and it looked much more finished. So duplicated this same thing on this build, but a few additions. It’s a little hard to see, but you can see the binding on the long edge, but also on a few other sides and corners. When installed, all exposed edges of this piece will have a bound edge.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001082017/IMG_0933_zps70pleeb6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001082017/IMG_0933_zps70pleeb6.jpg.html)

Also I had the transmission tunnel pieces bound. I showed the leather wrapped transmission tunnel cover in an earlier update. I cut the supplied transmission tunnel carpet piece into the two pieces required for the sides. Then had three sides bound. This will give a finished edge along the front and back and alongside the transmission tunnel cover.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001082017/IMG_0935_zps737vasnb.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001082017/IMG_0935_zps737vasnb.jpg.html)

That’s it. Everything is bagged and tagged and ready for final assembly. Hopefully sometime this week I’ll be posting pictures of the body with some final color. We’re about halfway through the time estimate for the paint.

DaleG

01-10-2017, 01:48 PM

If you are going w PS AND AC, here is one that works well but is very expensive, though it does include the AC compressor and PS pump:

http://www.vintageair.com/cyotfrntrnnr.asp

charlesshoults

01-12-2017, 01:45 PM

edwardb

01-12-2017, 02:20 PM

Hello. I must say that the detail you put into the build is very nice. I'm currently in the wish list phase and am using some of your images as inspiration for what I want to build. I'm planning to use a Ford 5.0L Coyote engine with a 6-speed Tremec and the 8.8" IRS with 3.55 gears. Do you have power steering on all three cars? How important do you find power steering to be on a roadster? I'm leaning toward a manual steering rack to reduce cost and complexity.

Thanks. Glad my build thread is helpful. The power steering question is discussed a lot, and for me a real easy answer. The difference is huge and I won't have one without it. No, I didn't have power steering on all three builds. I didn't have it on my first one (Mk3) and for me it was the single biggest build mistake. I was going to add power steering, but built #7750 instead, this time with power steering. The current owner of the Mk3 still gives me grief (good natured, mostly :)) that it doesn't have power steering. The current build had power steering in the build plan from the beginning. Listen carefully to the logic. Many only hear half. Of course reduced effort is a factor. Not so much once you're moving. Manual steering is pretty OK then. But slow and or trying to park manual steering is a handful. So reduced effort is nice. The other payoff though is with power steering you can double the front end caster which results in better centering and straight line stability of the car. My Mk3 had Mustang SN95 spindles and manual steering. Both Mk4's have had the newer Factory Five 2-piece spindles and power steering. With the improved front end geometry of the 2-piece spindles and the increased caster with power steering the driving difference is dramatic. Really night and day. So obviously I recommend those spindles as well. There are lots of ways you can save money on these builds. Spindles and power steering isn't a place I would try to save. One final note. How are you planning to use the car? If any track or auto-x in your future, pretty much mandatory for power steering there.

Some will say power steering is "too light" and takes away feedback to the driver. Good points, and it is necessary to have the right setup. Having some way to adjust the boost so that it's the right amount without being overboosted is an important part of the installation. I chose the KRC setup because they have multiple flow valves to get it just the way you want. Others will install a Heidts valve. There is a "cut spring" mod that many have used, but I'm not sure that's possible for pumps that will fit a Coyote. Pretty sure that's a GM pump thing, but I'm not positive. No experience. I have an electric pump on #7750 and I can adjust the boost with that. Nice setup, but not cheap. There are some direct power steering setups as well, but I don't have any experience with those either and aren't too common. Hope that all helps.

You mention 6-speed. Nothing wrong with that, but IMO not really needed. These cars are really light and 5-speed does the job. Do the calculations on final transmission drive and diff ratio. Get that right and 5-speed works great. The second overdrive really isn't needed. The TKO is a perfect match with the Coyote. It fills the transmission tunnel. Things get pretty tight with a 6-speed and the driveshaft is even shorter. Both doable, but I'd take a second look at it.

Of course these are all my opinions. You can find many others so learn to search on both forums. Both of these subjects are discussed a lot. You will need to decide for yourself. As we say around here a lot, it's your build. Do it the way you want. Good luck!

donshapansky

01-12-2017, 02:46 PM

edwardb

01-12-2017, 02:54 PM

I have the Coyote installed in a '33HR and I was able to use a Ford compressor mounted to the engine block with the stretchy Gates belt and electric power steering. I have the schematic to integrate the A/C operation into the PDB of the Coyote engine that was developed here by 2bking for a Roadster he built. The finished package is compact and works well for a lot less than the Vintage system that would not fit a '33.

OK... No A/C going on with this build. I've seen that PS built into a couple Roadsters. Certainly works but there's some fabrication involved and not sure how it fits with the large Coyote sized engine.

edwardb

01-12-2017, 06:25 PM

Today the shop ask me to approve the first sprayouts of the color. Rather than rely on pictures, I drove down and saw them in person. The back of the trunk, hood, scoop and trunk access panel were completed including clear coat. Surprise! Looks like candy red. More precisely Ford Red Candy 2 Metallic, code RZ. It's just a bit lighter than #7750, which I'm really happy about. Love the color on #7750. But it looks a little dark if the sun isn't shining or the lights aren't bright. Don't think that will be the case with this color. This shop uses Standox paints and has the full mixing setup. This is a solvent base (not water base) tri-coat. It's going to be amazing. Final guide coat sanding is happening on the body right now. A week from now they are promising all the color and stripes will be done. And then several more days to cut and buff the clearcoat. We're getting there. I snapped these pics about an hour ago. The trunklid and scoop are probably most what it looks like in person. The light is a little funky on the hood.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0949_zpskslu2ddb.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0949_zpskslu2ddb.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0952_zpspnc9sdl2.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0952_zpspnc9sdl2.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0951_zps6rq4vhfn.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0951_zps6rq4vhfn.jpg.html)