EdwardBs Mk4 #8674 20th Anniversary Build [Archive] - Page 3

edwardb

01-18-2017, 11:13 PM

Big day today for paint. We have full body color. Love all the pics my painter is sending and it’s cool to see the step-by-step progress. These are all from today.

Ready for color on all outside surfaces. Note at this point the underside surfaces, jambs, etc. are complete including clear. Rick said he wanted to do the exterior with everything placed to make sure the metallic and color shades match perfectly. Note also all the wrapping is new. I assume that's for cleanliness, but I didn't ask.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0959_zpsfwvh2hvl.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0959_zpsfwvh2hvl.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0958_zpsj3qiosvz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0958_zpsj3qiosvz.jpg.html)

Base coat done. As I mentioned in a previous update, this is a tri-coat. Interesting shade for this stage.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0961_zpszhrwykqs.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0961_zpszhrwykqs.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0960_zpsgsfcoi8u.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0960_zpsgsfcoi8u.jpg.html)

Now the tint coat. Looks amazing.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0963_zpsvpd299n7.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0963_zpsvpd299n7.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0962_zpsok1x0duf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0962_zpsok1x0duf.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0966_zpsczmrvznz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0966_zpsczmrvznz.jpg.html)

Work on stripes starts tomorrow. Then clear and final cut/buff. Couldn’t be more pleased with how it’s turning out.

2bking

01-18-2017, 11:55 PM

Looking good! The base coat pictures reminds me of mine, same color of course, and thinking the paint people better know what they are doing. The base coat didn't resemble anything like the final color and it was very easy to remove with some mineral spirits. The mid-coat didn't have any durability either. The clear coat makes it hard and tough. It's the touch up paint that's hard to produce. I ended up doing some test mixes until I got the right amount of base, mid-coat and clear coat mixed together to have the same color.

edwardb

01-19-2017, 07:17 AM

It's the touch up paint that's hard to produce. I ended up doing some test mixes until I got the right amount of base, mid-coat and clear coat mixed together to have the same color.

Yeah, that's the one downside of the tri-coats. Not the easiest to touch up. It will be a driver, so will get the inevitable stone chips and whatever around the nose. I'll put the usual clear film on the rear flare. Interesting what you did. Will keep that in mind.

edwardb

01-20-2017, 10:32 PM

Huge day for paint today. Stripes are done after seeing the layout yesterday. Then four coats of high solid clear. Cut and buff is next, and should be home in my garage late next week for final assembly. Changed things up a bit with a solid contrasting pinstripe, and I like how it sets off the colors. Not much else to say but post some pics.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0988_zpskigaf4ph.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0988_zpskigaf4ph.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0989_zpssol4wrke.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0989_zpssol4wrke.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0990_zpshli7y13s.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0990_zpshli7y13s.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0991_zpsrj5ujorq.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0991_zpsrj5ujorq.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0994_zpsirxp7foi.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0994_zpsirxp7foi.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0998_zpsootxfvch.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0998_zpsootxfvch.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0999_zpswboipv9e.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_0999_zpswboipv9e.jpg.html)

wareaglescott

01-21-2017, 03:29 AM

Looks amazing! Love the addition of the contrast stripe.

Jeff Kleiner

01-21-2017, 07:49 AM

Can't wait to see it all together!

Jeff

GoDadGo

01-21-2017, 08:02 AM

EdwardB,

Great Looking Pain Jobt!
That color really looks rich & deep.

Steve

96TennGT

01-21-2017, 09:27 AM

That looks awesome! I'm not big on red but that's fantastic.

Byron

cgundermann

01-21-2017, 11:12 AM

Looks awesome; love the black contrasting stripes!

RR20AC

01-21-2017, 01:29 PM

Very nice Paul, I am also going with red with white stripes. This paint looks difficult to touch up. I want to autocross and I think I need a simple paint easily touched up. You should win a lot of awards with this. Jim

2FAST4U

01-21-2017, 01:33 PM

Damn! That's a bit**in color!!

WIS89

01-21-2017, 02:40 PM

Paul-

WOW, that paint looks great! What a surprise with the contrasting stripe! I didn't see that coming, but it looks terrific!

As with everything on your build, it turned out beautifully! You selected a great color again, and it will look great as it comes together.

I look forward to watching as you bring it all together again. Thank you for allowing us to follow along. I know you are an inspiration to many of us here!

Regards,

Steve

Papa

01-21-2017, 04:00 PM

edwardb

01-21-2017, 05:32 PM

Man that looks sharp! I am excited to see your build completed, it's been a pleasure reading along from the beginning. It's a long way out for color for me, but I have a painter lined up that does beautiful work. I'm toying with the deep blue candy body color with white stripes that have a hint of blue pearl in them. Any thoughts on that color combination?

Thanks for all the positive comments guys. The look is exactly what I was going for along with just amazing work by the painter. The pinstripe is something I've seen on several builds, and thought it would be a pretty unique and distinctive look. I simulated what it might look like with varying colors and widths of tape on #7750. Decided to go with the black stripe, and originally it was going to be wider. But the shop suggested 1/4-inch would be best, and they were right on. Just enough. And yea, I did save it as kind of a surprise.

Papa -- I'm a self-professed sucker for red, so I'm not the best person to ask. Your combination sounds cool, but in the end color choice is a very personal choice. Paint it your dream color and don't look back.

JRL16

01-22-2017, 04:58 AM

Your car looks amazing Paul. Great paint job to go along with all the great craftsmanship you put into it. Thanks again for all the info. Can't wait to see it finished. Might make it up to autorama to check it out.

M3ichael

01-24-2017, 11:17 AM

Paul, Looks amazing! What's your plans after your build is done?

edwardb

01-24-2017, 03:25 PM

Paul, Looks amazing! What's your plans after your build is done?

No rest huh? :o The new Gen 3 Coupe looks very interesting. Hoping to see one in our travels this next year. Tentatively planning to go to the Open House in Wareham. Plus I'm sure they'll have it at London. Will look at it very closely. Bunch of projects ahead for our new (to us) house including getting my garage workspace a little more organized. Plus I need to more aggressively market and sell #7750. I don't want to see it go, but that was the deal.

charlesshoults

01-27-2017, 02:18 AM

edwardb

01-27-2017, 07:33 AM

Great colors. Curious how much that paint job is costing. I have a similar treatment in mind but with a very dark blue body color, dark metallic gray Le Mans stripes, each of the two stripes edged on either side with a narrow light blue pin stripe. Black roll bars, black painted and wrapped Breeze quietpipes. Then if I feel like messing with it, stone guards on the headlights.

The price of paint for these is discussed a lot. First, there are a number of variables so be careful when reading comparisons. For many "paint" also includes body and panel fitting, adjusting cutouts, hanging doors, installing latches, installing the windshield, etc. There is money to be saved (maybe...) by doing some of that yourself. But many aren't comfortable with it and some painters prefer you not to. For sure don't put any product on the body itself without talking to your painter first. Some won't touch it if you start applying anything. Like filler, primer, etc. I often tell this story. When I was talking to the guy that painted my first build (different than the last two) I said I wanted to do all the body fitting, panel installation, gaps, etc. so all he had to do was bodywork and paint. He said OK but also wouldn't give me his final price estimate until I delivered it to him. He said he had a number of people who did the same thing and it cost them more for him to fix their work than it would have been for him to do it right the first time. Valid point. I was relieved when I delivered it and he said my work was OK. He said I saved about two days of shop time for him. I felt good about that except that it took me many times longer! Definitely the difference between a rank amateur and pro. Second variable is paint colors and paint materials used. Red metallic like this build is one of the most expensive. Well north of $500 per gallon. High quality fillers, clears, etc. are all pricey. Third variable is prices are just plain different depending on where you live. In most cases, there is 150 hours (or more) of work to be done, and shop rates vary a lot.

Regarding this paint job, I'm not going to cite specifics for several reasons. But suffice it to say this is a very high end shop that only does custom work. It shows, but it doesn't come cheap. I did all the basic body fitting, panel installation, cutouts, gapping, etc. They were happy with it when delivered and didn't have to change much. That saved some. Still, my final cost will be at the higher end of the prices cited in threads about paint cost, but nowhere near as much as some. I would suggest you search some of the threads where this subject is discussed and see more details about the variables, what guys have experienced, and options you might have. In the end, unless you're doing it yourself it's not cheap and for many one of the biggest budget surprises.

The most important advice I would give is whoever paints your car, make sure it's someone with experience painting these. Another thing to watch for is time. There have been multiple instances of paint jobs taking many months or more. In a few cases, much more. I had to wait a couple months for my place in line for this shop, but once delivered, they started work that day and has been pretty much non-stop since. I'm scheduled to pick it up later today. That level of service is important to me, and one of the many reasons I chose them.

Dave Howard

01-27-2017, 02:28 PM

Yea, that's the one downside of the tri-coats. Not the easiest to touch up. It will be a driver, so will get the inevitable stone chips and whatever around the nose. I'll put the usual clear film on the rear flare. Interesting what you did. Will keep that in mind.

If it's going to be driven, consider custom 3M for the front (hood opening forward) and the front of the rear wheel wells. Get it done before the 1st mile and before the 1st stone chip. A relatively cheap investment in your project. I wouldn't bother with the paint defender system. I applied it on mine and the +10K paint job got hammered anyways.

edwardb

01-27-2017, 10:11 PM

If it's going to be driven, consider custom 3M for the front (hood opening forward) and the front of the rear wheel wells. Get it done before the 1st mile and before the 1st stone chip. A relatively cheap investment in your project. I wouldn't bother with the paint defender system. I applied it on mine and the +10K paint job got hammered anyways.

It will absolutely be driven. I'll be looking at options. Thanks.

edwardb

01-27-2017, 10:11 PM

Huge day today. Received the call yesterday that my paint would be done today and ready for pickup. Hooked up the SE and headed across town. Cold and a bit snowy today, but that wasn’t going to keep this from happening. It was of course amazing to see it finished. All the pictures have been great but seeing it in person made my day. Rick did an awesome job. The Coyote started right up after being at the shop for a little over a month. Once again gathered a big crowd. Open headers do that. It’s now home and safely in the garage. I have just under four weeks to get it ready for Detroit Autorama. Received word last week that my application was accepted and I'm in.

First is a couple pics from three days ago when cut and buff was underway. Hurts a little to see that beautiful shine all sanded down, but the end result is worth it.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_1019_zpslsgglhzy.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_1019_zpslsgglhzy.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_1020_zps8yz47fxa.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_1020_zps8yz47fxa.jpg.html)

These are just quick walk-around pics in the garage, but here it is home. The hood and trunk lid don't have final gaps or height set yet. Scoop installation also not finished. #7750 is just visible in one of the pics. Seeing them side-by-side confirms the candy red of the new build is just slightly "redder" than #7750. Really loving the look of the black pinstripes. Doesn't look quite as shiny in my garage with a handful of 100 watt incandescent bulbs as it did under the lights at the paint shop. But it's amazing.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_1024_zpsikhl6k7l.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_1024_zpsikhl6k7l.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_1025_zpsajk1zx3a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_1025_zpsajk1zx3a.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_1026_zpsnvi9r9zz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_1026_zpsnvi9r9zz.jpg.html)

Quickly snapped on the chrome coil covers and took a couple pictures of the almost finished engine compartment. As you can see, had part of the engine cover painted the body color. I like it, but I think I will add some black stripes in the recessed areas on the sides. That would make it look even better. Rick did an amazing job keeping everything wrapped during the whole paint process. I didn’t clean anything before these pics. The cockpit and underside are just as clean.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_1027_zpsavrouqnx.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_1027_zpsavrouqnx.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_1028_zpsv0e8klzx.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Paint/IMG_1028_zpsv0e8klzx.jpg.html)

That's it for paint progress pics. Tomorrow I’ll start down my final assembly list. All of the parts are staged in the basement and ready to go on. Biggest work will be cockpit carpet where I have some adjusting to do around the 2bking modified DS footbox wall, and then the trunk carpet. But home stretch now!

Papa

01-27-2017, 11:23 PM

Absolutely beautiful!

wareaglescott

01-28-2017, 07:01 AM

Looks amazing Paul! Congrats.
Like what you did with the engine cover. I have been thinking about that as well. Did your painter have to take it apart at all? I looked at mine and it seems like it has some type of rubber/plastic fastener. I was wondering if I took it apart if I could find those to get it back together.

edwardb

01-28-2017, 07:21 AM

Like what you did with the engine cover. I have been thinking about that as well. Did your painter have to take it apart at all? I looked at mine and it seems like it has some type of rubber/plastic fastener. I was wondering if I took it apart if I could find those to get it back together.

Nope. Thought about taking it apart, but after looking at it we left it together and he just masked it off. You can buy the separate pieces in the aftermarket in different colors, materials (e.g. carbon fiber), so it's not uncommon to take them apart. I think they're reassembled with regular hardware versus trying to match the plastic parts of the original.

GoDadGo

01-28-2017, 09:12 AM

That's One Great Looking Looking Car!

When will you be building your next one?

Just kidding about building another one, but you do have a knack for putting these Big A__ Models together.

Have A Great Day!

Steve

Vette1972

01-28-2017, 09:53 AM

Amazing color and paint!

A wonderful car!

Hope the snow goes away quickly so we can see the finish in the sunlight.

Congrats, Paul

Len

2FAST4U

01-28-2017, 09:58 AM

Absolutely beautiful

Shawn818c

01-29-2017, 10:23 AM

Beautiful build! I stumbled upon this after seeing your maxjax for sale, didn't realize you were so close. Would love to see this in person some day!

RickP

01-29-2017, 07:58 PM

Just gorgeous Paul. Love the engine treatment.

edwardb

01-29-2017, 08:49 PM

Thanks for the positive reinforcement guys. It's up on jack stands with the wheels off getting all the final assembly done. I'll post some pics when it's further along. Pretty routine stuff right now.

Beautiful build! I stumbled upon this after seeing your maxjax for sale, didn't realize you were so close. Would love to see this in person some day!

Hey neighbor! I'll be at the Detroit Autorama Feb 24 - 26. Or give me a shout and drop over if you like. Or drop in on one of the Great Lakes Cobra events when the weather warms up. I assume you have an 818? Lots of Factory Five guys in the club who would be interested in seeing your car.

Railroad

01-30-2017, 09:15 AM

Everything is super! Were black pinstripes considered for the inside edges of the white body stripes?
Engine bay is sooo clean.

edwardb

01-30-2017, 09:57 AM

Everything is super! Were black pinstripes considered for the inside edges of the white body stripes?
Engine bay is sooo clean.

Thanks. No, didn't consider pinstripes anywhere but on the outside. That would be a good look too. I've seen it before. But I probably would opt for a narrower pinstripe.

Jeff Kleiner

01-30-2017, 11:04 AM

edwardb

01-30-2017, 12:00 PM

Great color combination...almost as if you modeled it after a little die cast Cobra (or maybe it was the other way around) ;) Enjoy the final assembly; for me that's always the icing on the cake!

Jeff

Yeah that little die cast Cobra is very much like #7750 and a spitting image of the new build. I generally have it in my display when I go to car shows. I think the little kids like it as much as the big one. :o

Dunamis

01-30-2017, 07:55 PM

Gorgeous!

JRL16

01-31-2017, 04:54 AM

What a beautiful car. You've done a fantastic job, Paul. It's nice that you've shared all the fine details that help us all so much in our builds. Just beautiful!!!

edwardb

02-01-2017, 11:35 PM

Since getting the build home from paint last Friday, I’ve been chugging away at the final assembly steps. Won’t detail everything I’ve done, but basically front and rear are done, electrical now completely done (and everything works!), trunk lid completely aligned and finalized, filler and cap installed, and a lots of little stuff. These are pictures from this afternoon.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1034_zpsbyylizyn.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1034_zpsbyylizyn.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1033_zpsif7swqq0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1033_zpsif7swqq0.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1038_zpse8lkiytl.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1038_zpse8lkiytl.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1042_zpsojlgahis.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1042_zpsojlgahis.jpg.html)

A couple things to wrap up and then I’m going to work on the cockpit carpeting. Once that’s in, I can finalize everything going into the cockpit. I’m planning to carpet the trunk as well, but prioritizing that until last. I can do Autorama three weeks from now without a carpeted trunk. Not my choice, but can if I have to.

Two items to detail a little further. First, true confession. I’m doing all LED lighting, most of which is a package from Watson’s Streetworks. Includes replacement red and amber 1157’s, headlights, and solid state flashers. Side note, you can see the LED headlights in the pictures I posted. Hard to tell exactly from these pics, but they’re a bit flatter than the standard halogens. Some will be OK with that. Others maybe not. But boy are they bright. I like them a lot. For the 1157’s, the bags are marked ESD sensitive and the bulbs are in ESD bags. So other than a quick look and test when received some months ago, I left them in the bags and did all the wiring and installation with the regular incandescent bulbs. With that complete, I proceeded to install them. About half were loose in the sockets and were intermittent. Ugh! Upon further review, I could see the spring loaded piece inside the bulb bases with the two contacts was not moving freely in some cases. So the contacts weren’t firmly against the contacts on the bulbs. Didn’t seem to affect the incandescents, but sure did the LED replacements. Upon further review found the self-inflicted problem. When I put the weather packs on all the fixtures, I had the brilliant idea to remove the rubber piece on the base of each fixture and replace with a piece of adhesive lined shrink sleeving that covered the base and about 3/4-inch of the harness. This, so I thought, would provide some added strain relief and also weather proofing. Good ideas, right? But what I really did was prevent the wires from moving in and out of the base which caused the spring loaded contacts to have very little free movement. Not good. I ended taking all the weather packs off (thank goodness for that pin extraction tool), removing the adhesive lined shrink sleeving, and replacing with a larger size non-adhesive shrink sleeving that didn’t pinch the wires out the base of the bulb. The original rubber covers that came with the bulbs were long gone. Problem solved! All contacts inside the bulbs now moved freely, the LED 1157’s locked in firmly, and all work perfectly.

I’ve received several questions about whether the LED lights are brighter than the stock incandescent 1157’s. The short answer is yes. These are. How much is relative I guess. I don’t have any way to measure them. But they’re clearly very bright even in daylight. Two other comments. One of the characteristics of LED’s is they reach their full intensity very quickly. Faster than incandescents which ramp up a bit when they light. I think this also makes them appear brighter. Especially when blinking like for turn signals and hazards. The other observation is I replaced the incandescent 1157’s in #7750 with some off-the-shelf LED’s from Advance Auto a year or so ago. They seemed OK at the time, but these bulbs from Watson’s are clearly much brighter. Better quality or newer technology? Who knows.

The other kind of big deal was how I spent my day yesterday. Earlier in the build thread I described how I installed a 255 lph in-tank electric fuel pump and 3/8-inch feed and return lines. The Factory Five Coyote instructions say to use a 255 lph pump with the stock provided lines. The Ford Racing Coyote crate instructions say to use a 190 lph pump and don’t (as I recall) talk about fuel line size. I opted for the larger pump, and since my Aeromotive regulator recommended 3/8-inch lines for both feed and return, went with that. This all has been widely discussed in multiple threads. The fuel pump hangar that came with my pump from Breeze had a 3/8-inch feed but a 1/4-inch return. Thinking that was the best I was going to do, installed it and all has been working OK. Over the past months though there has been new discussion about this. Mark now has a 3/8-inch return kit that goes into the top of the tank to replace the 1/4-inch return for high capacity fuel pumps. I really didn’t want to go that way. Then I found out about a new Mustang pump hangar from Pro-M Racing that has both 3/8-inch feed and return lines. Plus it has an extended return tube inside to prevent aeration, and it has 6AN fittings standard. No adapters required. I didn’t relish having to make the swap, but this all sounded good so ordered one a while back. They’ve been backordered, so it didn’t arrive until Monday. I was going to save this until after the show as well. But looking at what was already apart or not installed yet, it would be way easier to do it now. So yesterday I went for it. I dropped the tank and removed the old hangar and pump. Easy and pretty quick. What I found though were two gotchas. The spade connectors on the very large gauge wires on the new hangar weren’t going to work with the butt connectors on the Walbro pump I needed to swap over. Plus the new hangar requires some reliefs to be cut into the tank opening to fit it through. A trip to West Marine found the exactly right shrink sleeve reducing butt connectors. Upon further review, found the reliefs were necessary to clear the extended return tube. Not needed once everything was through the hole. I found I didn’t need to cut the reliefs nearly as much as shown if I just pushed the tube a bit as it was going in (a bit flexible and went right back) so that wasn’t too bad. So the new hangar with swapped pump is installed, the tank back in the chassis. My existing 6AN lines matched prefectly to the new hangar. That was pretty lucky. The Le Mans cap, fill tube, ground strap, and rear splash guards all installed. The pressure at the regulator is a few pounds different now, so will need to adjust that. I'm assuming that means I now have less restriction. I didn’t run the engine yet. This is the hangar I installed. http://www.promracing.com/fuel-supply/individual-fuel-parts/high-flow-fuel-pump-hanger-for-1986-1997-mustangs.html. Check the video. It makes a pretty good case for this change.

The sun was shining today. First time in a couple weeks. That’s the way it is in Michigan winter… But the sun was shining in through the garage windows hitting the new paint color. Wow! I think I’m really going to like this color. That’s it for now. More progress tomorrow. Maybe some more pictures this weekend.

WIS89

02-02-2017, 12:50 PM

Paul-

She looks great, and I really like that black pinstripe! It really brings a unique element to the center stripes.

As I have said before, you do very nice work, and the quality shows throughout your build thread!

Good luck as you finish up, and at your first show!

Regards,

Steve

RR20AC

02-02-2017, 01:13 PM

Jeff Kleiner

02-02-2017, 03:13 PM

...I'm looking at the rear bumper after just adding the bumper mod and not sure how that all tightens up like that...

Not sure how Paul goes about it but here's how I do 'em:

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/484642-rear-bumper-coupler-mod.html

Cheers,
Jeff

edwardb

02-02-2017, 05:00 PM

The color is awesome, Paul. Your gaps look perfect. Thanks for the show. I'm looking at the rear bumper after just adding the bumper mod and not sure how that all tightens up like that. Do you thread it all the way in to the over riders first then lock the whole thing in place with nuts inside the body? Can't wait to see it done sitting outside in the sun.

Thanks. It's coming together. I do the rear bumpers slightly different. I don't use an additional bolt. But either way works. Both are described in the thread Jeff linked.

What I did: First the threads in the overriders have to be drilled out. No easy way to do the coupler mod and still have the threads in the overriders. So with the couplers bolted onto the chassis previously, assemble in the following order: Threaded rod through the body, nut and washer threaded on, then thread the rod all the way into the coupler. Then lightly tighten the inside nut against the washer and onto the inside of the body. Then on the outside, I install in order a neoprene washer against the painted body, washer, spacer, bumper, spacer, overrider, washer, and finally a lock nut. The length of the spacers will determine how far the bumper and overriders extend from the body and each other. It takes some patience to reach behind the brackets in the overriders and get the nuts started. Then it takes some more patience to reach behind with wrenches to tighten. But it can be done.

RR20AC

02-02-2017, 06:29 PM

Thanks guys for the quick reply, I off to work so I will have to digest this later. Great info.

Duke

02-03-2017, 03:18 PM

Paul, quick question on your hood opening bumper guards. When you install them are you riveting through the 3/4 tubes on the side of the opening or just through the body?

edwardb

02-03-2017, 04:19 PM

Paul, quick question on your hood opening bumper guards. When you install them are you riveting through the 3/4 tubes on the side of the opening or just through the body?

I attach the hood bumpers with small sheet metal screws into the fiberglass. It's a pretty fair distance down to the 3/4 inch tubes (1/4 inch or more below the glass body, filled with cushioning) and I don't try to reach it. I've not tried to attach the perimeter of the hood to the 3/4 inch tubes on any of my builds. It's never been an issue. This topic used to be discussed some, but haven't seen it for awhile. People do it both ways.

One other comment. Some use D-tube cushioning around the hood opening rather than bumpers. Some even attach it to the underside of the hood which is really clean looking. I've tried D-tube before, but couldn't get the hood aligned the way I liked it. There's quite a bit of variation in the distance between the bottom of the hood and the lip around the opening. I use a couple different size bumpers and even then adjust the size sometimes so the hood sits flush with the body. Working on that exact step today actually. About done. :)

Jeff Kleiner

02-03-2017, 05:33 PM

...Some use D-tube cushioning around the hood opening rather than bumpers. Some even attach it to the underside of the hood which is really clean looking. I've tried D-tube before, but couldn't get the hood aligned the way I liked it. There's quite a bit of variation in the distance between the bottom of the hood and the lip round the opening. I use a couple different size bumpers and even then adjust the size sometimes so the hood sits flush with the body. Working on that exact step today actually. About done. :)

You hide the bumpers inside the "D" molding. I'll show you how when I see ya' at Open House or LCS but you have to promise not to tell Miller that I'm giving away more of the secrets ;)

Jeff

edwardb

02-03-2017, 08:10 PM

You hide the bumpers inside the "D" molding. I'll show you how when I see ya' at Open House or LCS but you have to promise not to tell Miller that I'm giving away more of the secrets ;)

Jeff

Interesting... I assume still on the body hood lip vs. on the underside of the hood.

Jeff Kleiner

02-03-2017, 08:53 PM

Interesting... I assume still on the body hood lip vs. on the underside of the hood.

When hiding bumpers, yes. I have applied "D" seal to the underside of hoods (all things being equal I prefer it) but only when bumpers were not required except for the usual rear center one.

Jeff

Duke

02-03-2017, 10:05 PM

Thanks guys, exactly what I was looking for. I noticed on mine when I clamped down the body to the 3/4 tubes it made a mess of the body to hood lines. I figured very few people did this even though the instructions still call for it considering I see people go to paint without the holes drilled for the bumpers.

Jeff, thanks for the heads up on the seals. Another one of my concerns/thoughts when sealing the engine bay.

edwardb

02-04-2017, 09:19 PM

Over halfway through my list of final assembly items. One of the open items was to seal the gap between the body and the chassis in front of the doors. For my other builds I’ve used the expanding foam that Factory Five provides, but that needs to be applied before installing the body. Some use other fill materials, also installed before the body goes on. Because of the decision to paint this body on, which I didn’t completely expect, nothing was installed beforehand. I was a little dreading this step, but turned out to be pretty easy. Before installing the side louvers, side pipes, and front splash guards, I removed the doors (which I was planning to do anyway in advance of working on the carpet), and removed the bolts on the underside of the body. This allowed me to flex the body sides out just a bit. Then I used two pieces of the 2-1/4 x 2-1/4 x 42 air conditioner seal foam from Ace Hardware that Jeff Kleiner recommends. I cut each side to length, tapered the ends a bit, and successfully pushed them into position from the wheel well side. Them put the bolts back into the underside, installed the louvers, installed the GAS-N side pipes and hangars, and installed the front splash guards. No gaskets on the side pipes. Just Permatex Ultra Copper sealant. Really happy with how the side pipe installation turned out. Took a couple wedges, but the final result with the GP Headers is by far the best of the builds I’ve done. Then installed the windshield.

After those steps, starting to look even more finished, even with a snow brush holding the hood up.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1045_zpsbztkdpam.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1045_zpsbztkdpam.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1046_zpsrm0wskyb.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1046_zpsrm0wskyb.jpg.html)

Finally got to stick on those 20th Anniversary badges. Pretty cool. Those are the Factory Five upgraded louvers that I had silver powder coated.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1044_zpspgvbpbyh.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1044_zpspgvbpbyh.jpg.html)

Completed the wiper installation. I mentioned earlier in the build thread that this wiper setup from Factory Five, new with the kit in August 2015, appears to be a different supplier than in the past. The wheelboxes are noticeably different and work very well. The shafts are a bit longer than before so the wiper arms seems to stand out a bit. But all OK. Low, high, park all working. Another hint that is mentioned a lot but I’ll go ahead and show here since I know there are a number of first time builders. The parked wipers look much better and more finished if the arms are bent so that the blades are parallel to the bottom of the windshield. The PS takes more bending than the DS. I put the tip in a smooth jaw vise and bump the arm with a hammer. I put some heat with a propane torch on the PS because of the additional bend. Then polished out the slight discoloration. The DS bent OK without any heat. Look like this when you’re done:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1050_zps2eig35tj.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1050_zps2eig35tj.jpg.html)

Today I finished the hood installation. Ended up with 10 bumpers around the perimeter and I’m really happy with how it lines up. Had to adjust the hinges just a bit. I know some guys struggle with these. Don’t claim to be an expert or very fast at it, but kind of getting the hang of it. The main tip is to close the hood, then reaching from underneath, loosen the mounting bolts just enough to where the hood can be bumped/pushed into position, then re-tighten from underneath. I do them one axis at a time. First side-to-side, then up and down. Couple of the bolts are not easy to reach, but it can be done. With everything adjusted and the gas struts installed, called it done.

I mentioned before I wanted to add some black stripes to the painted Coyote engine cover. Thought about using some pinstripe tape, but couldn’t find anything that wide. Then thought about paint, but really didn’t want to go that way. I stopped by a vinyl sign shop and they sold me couple feet of gloss black vinyl. Cut some strips and applied them wet. I like it. Nice complement to the black pinstripes on the body. Engine compartment now 100% done.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1052_zpsaufve51a.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1052_zpsaufve51a.jpg.html)

Finally, I’m still at least a couple weeks away from starting the Michigan title and license process. And it will be some weeks after that before I have my license plate. It’s not a real big deal, but I would prefer to have something hanging on the license plate bracket for Autorama. I thought about making something, but then the other day found a company in Austin, Texas that does custom printing including license plate sizes. Mainly I think for people who want something custom for the front where an actual front plate isn’t required. I had a real simple plate made up. It’s painted .040 aluminum with printed on lettering. An introductory special, free shipping, and it was in my mailbox in 4 days. Not bad. This is probably what my real plate will be, but I’m guessing Michigan won’t have this font. This will be perfect for the big car show, and a nice souvenir of the build for my man wall afterwards.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1058_zpsejol8jsg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1058_zpsejol8jsg.jpg.html)

Monday I will start carpeting the cockpit.

GoDadGo

02-04-2017, 10:05 PM

As Always, Your Cars Look Great!

JRL16

02-09-2017, 04:45 AM

If mine turns out half as good as yours I'll be a happy camper. Going to be a show stopper at Autorama. .

Dave Howard

02-09-2017, 06:48 AM

I installed 1/2 round ( or D ) style self adhesive weather stripping around the hood opening. Small round holes were cut in the locations where the buttons are mounted and the weather stripping went overtop. Helped to hide the buttons and made for a cleaner look. The same weather stripping was used around the door openings to seal the doors when closed.

edwardb

02-09-2017, 09:24 AM

If mine turns out half as good as yours I'll be a happy camper. Going to be a show stopper at Autorama.

Thanks! Getting close to the finish line. Show is two weeks away.

I installed 1/2 round ( or D ) style self adhesive weather stripping around the hood opening. Small round holes were cut in the locations where the buttons are mounted and the weather stripping went overtop. Helped to hide the buttons and made for a cleaner look. The same weather stripping was used around the door openings to seal the doors when closed.

I'm familiar with that D tube. I use it on the doors as well. Works great. For the hood, some of the bumpers I had to use are tall (.40) and nearly the same width as the D tube. They're not going to cover up very easily. I'm OK with how the bumpers look. Thanks.

edwardb

02-09-2017, 10:45 PM

Today I nearly finished the cockpit. Just a couple small details remaining. Cockpit carpet is 100% done. Transmission tunnel cover installed, lap belts installed, seats installed. Here are some details and pics.

Back wall carpet done. My favorite go-to carpet adhesive is DAP 00443 Weldwood Outdoor Carpet Adhesive. It may seem like overkill (and it probably is) but it works really well. I've tried about everything, and like this the best. You spread it on one surface with a notched trowel. I use a 1/8-inch. Pretty easy and no overspray. Then push the carpet into place. You can move and reposition as necessary until it’s right where you want it. But it also grabs quite well. A little rolling and it’s done. If any glue gets on the carpet, cleans easily with mineral spirits. I also use DAP Gel contact cement for smaller pieces. But that’s instant grab. Both products are really strong smelling and need good ventilation. I also turn off my garage heater. For obvious reasons.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1064_zpsmcb83brm.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1064_zpsmcb83brm.jpg.html)

I like to add a plastic pad by the accelerator pedal. Saves wear and tear on the carpet, plus makes the pedal easier and smoother to operate. After determining the location, I shave back the carpet some, then glue it in place with some weights overnight. Then stitch around the edges. Keeps the edges from lifting. That’s my hand stitching. Don’t look too close.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1067_zpsetzmswha.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1067_zpsetzmswha.jpg.html)

Then with the carpet installed and pad in the desired location.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1078_zpsoejim5l1.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1078_zpsoejim5l1.jpg.html)

Carpet all done, tunnel cover in place, e-brake boot installed. Those wires are for the heated seats. But then you knew that.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1071_zpsi5aciwdm.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1071_zpsi5aciwdm.jpg.html)

This shows some of the edging I described in a previous update. A nice improvement over the raw edge that would normally be in that location.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1074_zpsbvdbysjd.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1074_zpsbvdbysjd.jpg.html)

Seats and lap belts in. I’ll do the shoulder belts after the trunk carpet is installed.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1081_zpswtbgk7rm.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1081_zpswtbgk7rm.jpg.html)

Tomorrow I’ll get started on the trunk carpet. Hopefully done by this weekend. One other quick update. After getting all the lights installed after it came back from paint, I went out to the garage on several occasions and the brake lights were stuck on. Couple times over night. Rattled the pedal and they went back off. Fortunately the LED bulbs are pretty easy on the battery, so didn’t run it down. But still… I had noticed before that the brake pedal switch was very sensitive. Just the lightest touch on the pedal and the lights went on. I tried to adjust it, but no difference. The brake arm was tight against the switch housing and the button in as far as it would go. Even then, it will still turn on by itself. One switch I had came with the kit. The other is a Painless 80172. I needed a second switch for the Coyote top clutch switch, so bought the Painless. They look identical, so I really don’t know which one failed. I did a little research and found the ACDelco D885 is a direct replacement. It’s cheaper than the Painless, and I’ve had good luck with actual branded ACDelco OEM style parts in the past, so picked one up. Right away I could see it was different. The plunger is longer and the switch occurs in the travel. Not with the button all the way in. I changed to this switch (so much fun working under the dash in the footwell…) and it works perfectly and is easy to adjust. Here are the two switches side-by-side. The ACDelco part is on the right.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1060_zpshgs9vkad.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1060_zpshgs9vkad.jpg.html)

Two weeks from today is my delivery date for Autorama. Don’t want to be overconfident, but feel really good about being ready. Not many parts left in the basement.

edwardb

02-11-2017, 10:59 PM

Only a couple parts left in the basement, and nothing loose in the garage. So I guess that means I’m almost done. This will be a short update (by my standards...) and probably the last one before everything is done. Not a whole lot to report on actually.

On my last two builds I used the Dark Water Customs aluminum door sill trim instead of the Factory Five supplied plastic channel sill trim. I don’t remember the Mk3 being too hard. But I really struggled with #7750. The curves didn’t fit the opening all that well, I had interference with the door hinges, and the Mk4 interior sill and carpet are quite different than the Mk3 so it takes a lot of trimming to get the aluminum to fit properly. But the final result looks good, stays on, and is quite durable. So early in this build I put a pair on the Dark Water wish list and some weeks later heard they were ready to ship. My first attempts this time around were similar to #7750. It was going to a bit of a challenge. Even considered just using the standard plastic channel pieces. Then it occurred to me why do they need to go so far up, including behind the hinges? Why not just cut them off below the hinges, similar to how the provided plastic channel installs? That made a huge difference and still looks fine. A little tweaking on the bends, some trimming to clear the carpet, and installed them. Very happy I didn’t give up on them. Also dropped in the special logo floor mats. Fit perfectly and look nice.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_4488_zps6wyjckkf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_4488_zps6wyjckkf.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_4493_zpsxorpuey4.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_4493_zpsxorpuey4.jpg.html)

With the door sills in place and most of the interior done, hung the doors. Just the slightest final adjustments and they fit and close nicely. Also added the leather door cards I showed earlier. The 3M Dual Lock Reclosable Fastener material I described before seems rock solid for now. We’ll see how they do in the real world. Also hooked up the leather catch straps and added the D-tube seal around the door perimeters.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_4489_zpsehyzuitw.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_4489_zpsehyzuitw.jpg.html)

For my other two builds, once the doors were finally installed and adjusted using washers under the catches on the body, I removed the washers, measured the final thickness, and replaced with spacers. I used thickwall aluminum tubing and (of course) give them a little polish before installing. This time around, there are just a few washers on each side. Fewer than in the past. Maybe I’m getting lazy (or just ready to be done) but I decided they don’t look bad. Tonight I used a small brush and touched them up with the matching powder coat color and called them done.

Then mounted the windwings and visors. I had them all pre-assembled including the Breeze mirrors. Quick and easy to finish.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_4490_zps6fvulnlm.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_4490_zps6fvulnlm.jpg.html)

Also tonight I mounted the H3R fire extinguisher on the back wall centered between the seats. It’s mounted high enough to be completely clear of elbows, etc, for driver and passenger. No picture.

Today I took this overhead shot and it’s the last piece of the car sign I’m making. Even though I noticed when it was all done my center rear view mirror is pointed at the passenger instead of the driver. Oh well. I do my own signs with Microsoft Publisher and have them printed on foam board at FedEx Kinkos. Turn out really nice and for a bit over $30 a good deal. I looked at having a professional sign made for #7750. Some really nice stuff out there, but add a zero to that cost and maybe you’ll have something.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_4482_cropped_zpsav8hlzpc.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_4482_cropped_zpsav8hlzpc.jpg.html)

I’m down to trunk carpet, roll bars, and the last of the Simpson harness pieces. Put the wheels/tires back on, one more ride height check, and that’s it. I’ll post some pics then including the setup at Cobo for Autorama. Then planning to close the build thread.

wareaglescott

02-12-2017, 05:44 AM

Looks amazing Paul!
I have the same rear view mirror mount. Are there any tips or tricks to mounting it or is it pretty straight forward?

Dave Howard

02-12-2017, 06:47 AM

Looks amazing Paul!
I have the same rear view mirror mount. Are there any tips or tricks to mounting it or is it pretty straight forward?

A word of caution to those folks intending to install the Premium Top. The wind wings need to swing inward in order to properly mount the soft top and side windows. Using the Breeze mirrors mounted to the windshield frame will impact the proper installation of the top.

edwardb

02-12-2017, 08:25 AM

Looks amazing Paul!
I have the same rear view mirror mount. Are there any tips or tricks to mounting it or is it pretty straight forward?

Thanks! The Dark Water top mirror mount is pretty simple. This is my third. The supplied rear view mirror mounts easily with the supplied hardware. I did have a slight issue this time around because the supplied nuts didn't engage the slot in the windshield as solidly as I would have liked. I've had four different windshields (one from each kit plus one from another supplier) and each one was a different manufacturer. There has been slight variations for each. This one seemed the relief cut in the center top channel was slightly wider than previous ones. So the provided nuts just barely caught the corners and made the placement pretty critical. I made some little threaded plates to replace the nuts. Discussed and pictured in this previous post: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=263363&viewfull=1#post263363. Try yours though. It might be fine.

A word of caution to those folks intending to install the Premium Top. The wind wings need to swing inward in order to properly mount the soft top and side windows. Using the Breeze mirrors mounted to the windshield frame will impact the proper installation of the top.

No top in my build plan. Thanks though.

2bking

02-12-2017, 10:58 AM

Hi Paul,
That is a very nice build with a lot of attention to detail. You should wins some awards for that piece of work and I'm looking forward to see how you place in the Autorama.

Vette1972

02-12-2017, 11:49 AM

Paul,

Amazing build! Such fine quality and your sharing are tremendous. Regardless if someone builds a roadster or coupe, your detail will be a guide to a quality build. It will be a bit sad to see the thread come to an end. However, we hope you will share some of your travels as you put the car on the road.

Thanks,
Len

Paul Mischenko

02-12-2017, 08:21 PM

Looks awesome. Good luck at the show, the quality of your work and attention to detail has set the bar pretty high for the rest of us to follow....Cheers

edwardb

02-15-2017, 10:09 PM

Today I finally finished the trunk carpet. A little bit tedious, at least for me. Plus lots of reaching all the way inside. Way easier to do with the body off! I used black Bentley Auto Carpet from Miami Corp. I bought a chunk of it for #7750 thinking of doing the cockpit and trunk, but ended up only doing the trunk and using the stock carpet for the cockpit. Same as this build. So had plenty left to do the trunk again. It’s nice carpet. I made patterns from kraft paper for each piece, then cut and installed the carpet pieces. I used the previously mentioned outdoor carpet adhesive and gel contact cement. Fitting in and around the trunk box plus the frame pieces was interesting, but finally done.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1088_zpsghmqs0dw.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1088_zpsghmqs0dw.jpg.html)

Finished putting in the Simpson harness including the Replicaparts trim plates on the back wall. Today while glue was drying, began installing the two roll bars. Won’t take long to finish those.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1104_zpsnkb89z6k.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1104_zpsnkb89z6k.jpg.html)

The only assembly item left on my list is the trunk light. I’m going to use a strip of LED’s and a magnetic proximity switch somewhere on the lid or hinge. Probably won’t take the time to mess with that until after the show. By rule, the battery will be disconnected the whole time the car is on the show floor in Cobo. So nothing lost there. Down to final spit and polish now.

Jeff Kleiner

02-16-2017, 06:57 AM

edwardb

02-16-2017, 07:12 AM

You're all but there now!

I was it the Indy World of Wheels show this past weekend with the LCS raffle car and they not only required disconnecting the battery but also securing the gas cap---a long zip tie pulled around the LeMans cap and lever so that it can't be released does the trick.

Look forward to seeing photos of 8674 on the floor!

Jeff

Thanks Jeff. I have a locking cap under the LeMans cap, so shouldn't be necessary to do anything additional.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/th_IMG_4205_zpseyb9jnvg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2005162016/IMG_4205_zpseyb9jnvg.jpg.html)

Battery disconnect, locking fuel cap, and no more than 1/8 tank of fuel are all in the rules. My other times attending they were never actually inspected, but I'll be ready if they do. They only judge what they can see, but as I found out the first time with my Mk3, the judges don't consider a master disconnect a disconnected battery. If they can see the battery, they expect to see the positive lead removed from the post.

wareaglescott

02-16-2017, 09:21 AM

Sure is exciting seeing this build come to a conclusion!

Speaking of the battery I have a question on the front battery mount.
I used the same Breeze front setup you used. I notice it is pretty tight reaching down there around the cooling hoses to access the battery. When the battery was going in I wasn't really thinking about what it would take to replace it or how much the body and hood being in position may affect getting the battery out.
Now that your body is on does it complicate getting it out at all? Do you anticipate having to disconnect some of the cooling hoses when you change the battery or do you feel there is room to lift to out?

edwardb

02-16-2017, 12:45 PM

Now that your body is on does it complicate getting it out at all? Do you anticipate having to disconnect some of the cooling hoses when you change the battery or do you feel there is room to lift to out?

I don't think the body or hood changes anything. You're right, it could be a little tight getting that thing out of there. Looks like it might squeeze out the bottom rather than the top. If not, the upper radiator hose might need to be disconnected and moved aside. I've had great luck with Optima batteries (knocking on wood...) so hopefully won't have to find out very a long time.

Bdmac58

02-16-2017, 01:25 PM

I’ve been following this thread since the beginning and have pick up a lot of good information for when I’m able to purchase a Roadster Kit and start my build. Thank you for sharing your wisdom and knowledge. Good Luck at the Car Show.

Brien

wareaglescott

02-16-2017, 01:45 PM

I don't think the body or hood changes anything. You're right, it could be a little tight getting that thing out of there. Looks like it might squeeze out the bottom rather than the top. If not, the upper radiator hose might need to be disconnected and moved aside. I've had great luck with Optima batteries (knocking on wood...) so hopefully won't have to find out very a long time.

What a great thought about it potentially coming out the bottom. Had not even considered that. Genius!

edwardb

02-17-2017, 09:23 AM

Yesterday I finished the roll bars. That was the last of my “pre-show” punch list items. I was really glad to get that done. Drilling the holes for the trim rings I purposely didn’t do before just to make sure the final fit was exact. So needed to drill 20 holes for the six trim rings (dual roll bars) into my new paint. Needless to say, I was very careful. Also some interesting reaches getting them all installed and tightened, But all done now. I’ve not done dual roll bars before, so will need to get used to the look.

With a little remaining time, decided to go ahead and install my trunk lights. I’ve done trunk lights on each of my other builds with single fixtures, but always a little underwhelmed with the final result. With the popularity and availability, did an LED strip light on this build and much better. I planned ahead for the power and added a wire inside the RF rear harness from the courtesy light circuit before installing it into the chassis. This is an always on battery circuit, so perfect for this application. Same circuit can be used for interior or footwell lights, which I also did. I ran the added wire along with the wires to the license plate light. So the power was available in the corner of the trunk where the wires make the transition into the trunk lid.

I picked up a Weatherproof LED Flexible Light Strip, part number WFLS-NWx-SWBK, from superbrightleds.com. It’s 1 meter long (slightly more than needed), silicon encased, and with 3M mounting tape on the back. Nice product and perfect for this application. On #7750 I used a pin switch mounted against the trunk hinges and that works fine. But it was a bit of messing around making a bracket, getting it lined up properly, etc. I thought about using a mercury tilt switch this time, but instead saw this magnetic proximity switch while in O’Reilly Auto Parts a while back, so decided to give it a try.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1148_zpsx5cibf9h.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1148_zpsx5cibf9h.jpg.html)

Played around with several locations for the switch and after some testing found it wasn’t super critical on alignment or even proximity. If the magnet was within a quarter inch or so, it switched off. I ended up with the wired portion of the switch stuck to the bottom of the bulb seal around the trunk opening, and the magnet stuck to the underside of the trunk lid. Based on the locations, neither are particularly visible and using a VOM determined it switched on and off perfectly. I used the provided 3M emblem tape to attach each piece. That stuff is pretty robust, so hoping they stay put. I used the photo timer function on my iPhone to verify the proper locations. That’s a pretty neat trick to place stuff that’s hidden if you haven’t tried it. In this case, start the 10 second timer, lay the phone (or regular camera, iPad, whatever) in the right location, close the lid, wait for the picture to be taken, then review the results. Took a number of tries to find the right spot for both pieces. This is one of those pictures, showing the final result from inside the trunk with the lid closed.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1145_zps08wyr2lc.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1145_zps08wyr2lc.jpg.html)

This is about all you can see of the switch with the lid open. Just to the right of the trunk hinge. The magnet stuck on the trunk lid is just visible, but not where it’s easily seen.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_4495_zpsskvoh0gs.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_4495_zpsskvoh0gs.jpg.html)

I stuck the LED strip light along the bottom back edge of the hoop above the trunk opening. Just enough room inside the trunk hinges. Goes end-to-end. I cut off about 6-8 inches. At the cut line of course. Then wired everything up and tucked the wires behind the Weatherpack I have for the license plate wires. Works great. The switch harness has a little slide switch so you can switch the circuit off (e.g. if you have the trunk lid open for a long time and don’t want the lights on the whole time) but I didn’t do anything special with that. I can reach it if I have to, but likely not important.

Looking from the ground up at the light strip:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1150_zpsd2xokgqd.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1150_zpsd2xokgqd.jpg.html)

A more normal angle showing how it lights the trunk. I like it. Still on jack stands. When it's on the ground, don't expect to directly see the lights on the ends like in this pic.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1149_zpstqqof5gq.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1149_zpstqqof5gq.jpg.html)

Now to get the last of the paint shop dust off the build and wheels back on.

boat737

02-17-2017, 10:24 AM

Dave Howard

02-17-2017, 11:36 AM

I did something very similar, except I mounted mine in a housing, which pretty much eliminates the 'direct' view of the LED. superbrightleds.com has aluminum housings ( https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/housings/klus-b1888_k7-micro-alu-series-surface-mount-black-anodized-aluminum-led-profile-housing/2039/ ) for the LED strips. I GENTLY bent one to match the hoop bend, put some 3M double sided sticky foam tape on the back, and mounted it with 3 rivets just for good measure. The LED strip goes inside the aluminum housing, and then a nice plastic lens snaps in place to protect it. I actually did the same in the front and rear of the engine compartment.

Great idea Boat737. That looks very nice and helps hide the blinding LED. Nice work

edwardb

02-17-2017, 12:02 PM

boat737

02-17-2017, 01:12 PM

I like the product Boat737 used as well. Looks nice. Wouldn't have fit under the hinges on mine though. The lower profile encapsulated strip I used just clears. The individual LED's won't be visible in mine when it's sitting down on the ground, as I mentioned.

Maybe notch the hinge a bit? or the housing a tad? Just a thought.

edwardb

02-17-2017, 01:46 PM

Maybe notch the hinge a bit? or the housing a tad? Just a thought.

Up to you. I'm not changing anything on mine. Thanks.

edwardb

02-18-2017, 10:21 PM

The build is basically complete. Title and registration are still ahead, and finalizing adjustments like alignment, ride height, etc. Plus I actually will get to really drive it! But the build is done. No more parts and no more items on the list. Everything is working as it should. Dropped it off the jack stands and next step is a trailer ride to downtown Detroit Cobo Center on Thursday morning. Today I applied a coat of Zaino (what else?) Z-2 PRO Show Car Polish. Nothing like putting on a coat of polish and wiping it off to see your paint up close. All I can say is Rick just knocked it out of the park. Here are a few sneak peak pics. Still just garage lighting and a little natural light through the windows. I had the garage door open earlier in the day (60 and sunny, record for Michigan) and the sun hitting it takes it to another level. To say I’m happy with it is an understatement.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1158_zpsy2wjm8qn.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1158_zpsy2wjm8qn.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1159_zpsij3ulqac.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1159_zpsij3ulqac.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1160_zpsnaedxojk.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1160_zpsnaedxojk.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1161_zps1wzqufkv.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1161_zps1wzqufkv.jpg.html)

I’ll post some final pictures in the display from Autorama this coming weekend. Speaking of 60 degrees and sunny, cranked up #7750 and went for a nice cruise around noon. I don’t recall ever getting to do that in February. It ran and drove great like it always does. Can’t wait to do the same with #8674, but realistically that’s a couple months away at least.

Jdav

02-18-2017, 10:57 PM

Looks beautiful

RR20AC

02-19-2017, 12:55 AM

Congrats

Bdmac58

02-19-2017, 08:08 AM

Awesome!

Paul Mischenko

02-19-2017, 04:32 PM

Amazing... Congrats Paul, good luck at the show. Cheers.

wallace18

02-19-2017, 04:56 PM

Fantastic job!

dougski

02-22-2017, 07:54 AM

edwardb

02-22-2017, 09:51 AM

Paul,
Several posts ago you were discussing how you replaced the fuel pump hanger with the Pro-M product. I am doing the same install and am currently trying to adapt the large gauge wires that come with the hanger to the smaller gauge wires that come from the Aeromotive fuel pump 2-pin connector. I contacted Pro-M and they said to cut the ends off their wires and solder to the connector that comes with the pump. They also went into some detail about using heat shrink tubing that is resistant to fuel and if unsure to soak the tubing overnight and check the next day. Just wanted to be sure the West Marine reducing splices that you used are fuel resistant. Thanks for the great build! I have gotten many ideas and improvements from reading. Doug

Thanks. Glad you've gotten something out of my build thread. Regarding the connectors for the fuel pump, I spent quite a while looking at options. The West Marine part #320303 step-down butt connector was the best thing I could come up with, and fortunately my (sort of...) local store had some in stock. To be completely honest, I didn't soak it overnight as they suggested. The material looked very similar to the shrink sleeving that was already used on my pump, which wasn't adhesive lined as best I could tell. I've found the West Marine stuff, since intended for marine use, is typically very robust. So I went ahead and used it without any further testing. Hopefully I won't regret that. I'm not afraid to solder, and did a bunch of it on my build, but this connector crimped on very solidly plus the shrink pulled in tight on both wires. FWIW, here a picture of the package and the leftover connector. The marking on the package is a little misleading. It says 16-14 AWG. But the part number description on-line, and the guy at the store also confirmed in their catalog, is actually AWG 12-10 to (1) 8 or (2) 12-10, which fit my wire combination perfectly.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/th_IMG_1166_zpsxome4dx6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_1166_zpsxome4dx6.jpg.html)

This question has piqued my interest though. I'm going to drop the extra connector I have into a jar of gasoline and see what it looks like tomorrow. I'll report back.

dougski

02-22-2017, 10:07 AM

Thanks. Glad you've gotten something out of my build thread. Regarding the connectors for the fuel pump, I spent quite a while looking at options. The West Marine part #320303 step-down butt connector was the best thing I could come up with, and fortunately my (sort of...) local store had some in stock. To be completely honest, I didn't soak it overnight as they suggested. The material looked very similar to the shrink sleeving that was already used on my pump, which wasn't adhesive lined as best I could tell. I've found the West Marine stuff, since intended for marine use, is typically very robust. So I went ahead and used it without any further testing. Hopefully I won't regret that. I'm not afraid to solder, and did a bunch of it on my build, but this connector crimped on very solidly plus the shrink pulled in tight on both wires. FWIW, here a picture of the package and the leftover connector. The marking on the package is a little misleading. It says 16-14 AWG. But the part number description on-line, and the guy at the store also confirmed in their catalog, is actually AWG 12-10 to (1) 8 or (2) 12-10, which fit my wire combination perfectly.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/th_IMG_1166_zpsxome4dx6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_1166_zpsxome4dx6.jpg.html)

Thanks for the part number. If I go with the West Marine part I will soak overnight and let you know what I come up with. The other option I am looking at is using a non-insulated step down butt connector from Del City and fuel resistant heat shrink from mcMaster. Doug

edwardb

02-22-2017, 11:53 AM

Thanks for the part number. If I go with the West Marine part I will soak overnight and let you know what I come up with. The other option I am looking at is using a non-insulated step down butt connector from Del City and fuel resistant heat shrink from mcMaster. Doug

That sounds like a good alternative. I was in a time crunch so forged ahead with the West Marine part. I have the spare soaking in gasoline at this moment. Shrunk a piece of wire on each end, took a "before" picture, and dunked it. I'll report back tomorrow. Hoping for my sake anyway to have good news.

dougski

02-22-2017, 12:15 PM

That sounds like a good alternative. I was in a time crunch so forged ahead with the West Marine part. I have the spare soaking in gasoline at this moment. Shrunk a piece of wire on each end, took a "before" picture, and dunked it. I'll report back tomorrow. Hoping for my sake anyway to have good news.

Glad you had another connector to test. Look forward to the results tomorrow hopefully in your favor.

edwardb

02-23-2017, 01:28 PM

Glad you had another connector to test. Look forward to the results tomorrow hopefully in your favor.

I had the West Marine part fully immersed in gasoline for 25+ hours. The good news is the sleeving itself wasn't affected. No change in shape, still slightly flexible, still gripping the wires. Looks OK. What I did learn though is obviously the adhesive is not up to the task. What was previously squeezed out the end of the sleeving is gone. Also the marking on the sleeving is gone, but no real surprise or concern there. My conclusions? Most sleeving including those specifically sold as chemical resistant won't have adhesive, so nothing lost. The sleeving itself appears to be up to the task. I don't see anything that would make me drop the tank and change to something else at this point. But if I had the choice, I would probably use chemical resistant sleeving with no adhesive from the start.

Slightly off topic, but I wonder how much the wires and connectors are fully immersed in gasoline in the tank? Being only an inch or two below the top of the high part of the tank, does fuel even go up that high when the tank is full? Even if it did, the tank isn't full all the time. Even if not immersed in liquid the vapor would be concentrated, so maybe the same as being immersed. Doesn't change anything including the need to be fully chemical resistant. Just wondering though.

Before:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/th_IMG_1167_zps8vhdjbyv.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_1167_zps8vhdjbyv.jpg.html)

After:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/th_IMG_1170_zpsdfvskc28.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_1170_zpsdfvskc28.jpg.html)

Jeff Kleiner

02-23-2017, 01:49 PM

edwardb

02-23-2017, 02:16 PM

Looking at the before & after photos I see a pretty dramatic change...the wire on the left that was blue before soaking is now red and even more amazing is that the wire on the right that began as red has now become blue!

I actually looked in here hoping hoping that Paul posted some Autorama set up pics ;)

Jeff

Yea, amazing how those wires changed colors like that. But wasn't testing the wires, so didn't point it out. :o

The new Roadster is parked at its display in Cobo Center hall as of about 10:00 AM this morning. They were rushing us in and out of there and another group waiting to set up behind us. So barely could catch our breath and I didn't have a chance to take any pictures. I'll take some tomorrow and post. I promise.

dougski

02-23-2017, 03:27 PM

I had the West Marine part fully immersed in gasoline for 25+ hours. The good news is the sleeving itself wasn't affected. No change in shape, still slightly flexible, still gripping the wires. Looks OK. What I did learn though is obviously the adhesive is not up to the task. What was previously squeezed out the end of the sleeving is gone. Also the marking on the sleeving is gone, but no real surprise or concern there. My conclusions? Most sleeving including those specifically sold as chemical resistant won't have adhesive, so nothing lost. The sleeving itself appears to be up to the task. I don't see anything that would make me drop the tank and change to something else at this point. But if I had the choice, I would probably use chemical resistant sleeving with no adhesive from the start.

Slightly off topic, but I wonder how much the wires and connectors are fully immersed in gasoline in the tank? Being only an inch or two below the top of the high part of the tank, does fuel even go up that high when the tank is full? Even if it did, the tank isn't full all the time. Even if not immersed in liquid the vapor would be concentrated, so maybe the same as being immersed. Doesn't change anything including the need to be fully chemical resistant. Just wondering though.

Before:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/th_IMG_1167_zps8vhdjbyv.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_1167_zps8vhdjbyv.jpg.html)

After:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/th_IMG_1170_zpsdfvskc28.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_1170_zpsdfvskc28.jpg.html)

Thanks for posting the results. Glad you do not have to drop the tank again.

Enjoy the show.
Doug

WIS89

02-24-2017, 07:50 AM

Paul-

Good luck with the show. I look forward to checking out your pictures!

Your car looks amazing, as I have shared before. I admire your craftsmanship and attention to detail. I know she will be well received at the show!

Regards,

Steve

edwardb

02-24-2017, 11:22 AM

We completed move-in yesterday, and today have everything set and polished. Show doesn't officially open for another hour, but there are a bunch of people here already. My location on the show floor is "OK" but not as good as the past. I have a vendor display on each side of me. But we're here and ready for three days, and I enjoy it a lot. With no commentary, here are a bunch of pictures. The floor is the Race Deck out of my old garage that I haven't had a chance to install in the new house yet. Worked out well and I didn't have to rent carpet. The stanchions are from a fellow Great Lakes Cobra Club member, who made them up a couple years ago for his display. The bases are disk rotors, the posts are cams from a Terminator (not Coyote, but I'll make due...) and the tops he had made. Very cool and fitting for the display. Enjoy!

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1172_zpsqchhj43d.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1172_zpsqchhj43d.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1173_zpsarzadqql.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1173_zpsarzadqql.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1174_zps6tkgcatf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1174_zps6tkgcatf.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1175_zps9ezhjt4u.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1175_zps9ezhjt4u.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1176_zpswli4kgbp.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1176_zpswli4kgbp.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1177_zpszb9azd0j.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1177_zpszb9azd0j.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1178_zps6b1qh3yx.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1178_zps6b1qh3yx.jpg.html)

edwardb

02-24-2017, 11:23 AM

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1179_zpsp15wq0yj.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1179_zpsp15wq0yj.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1180_zpsbwemc7x9.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1180_zpsbwemc7x9.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1181_zpsol79x0ku.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1181_zpsol79x0ku.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1182_zpsp9mzuxi9.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1182_zpsp9mzuxi9.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1183_zpsqet0zzbi.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1183_zpsqet0zzbi.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1184_zpsux0c2dlv.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1184_zpsux0c2dlv.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1185_zpsn4ovqe3z.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1185_zpsn4ovqe3z.jpg.html)

edwardb

02-24-2017, 11:23 AM

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1186_zpsrmzmi0oi.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1186_zpsrmzmi0oi.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1187_zpsdlqphhux.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1187_zpsdlqphhux.jpg.html)

Vette1972

02-24-2017, 12:34 PM

Edwardb,

Beautiful car and well displayed. Nice uprights! Enjoy.

Len

RR20AC

02-24-2017, 01:46 PM

Looks amazing Paul, Thanks for all the detail of your build up to this point. Jim

Paul Mischenko

02-24-2017, 03:38 PM

Now thats really impressive. You have to be thrilled Paul
Now that you're done what are you going to do with all your free time! Cheers

Bdmac58

02-24-2017, 03:52 PM

Great looking car, awesome display!

wareaglescott

02-25-2017, 07:35 AM

Looks amazing Paul. Hope you are having a great time at the show.

Straversi

02-25-2017, 11:58 AM

She's a beauty! Thank you so much for all you have done.
-Steve

Ejzajac

02-25-2017, 04:15 PM

Great final product!! Great thread!! Time to think about a new build?

Jim1855

02-26-2017, 11:52 PM

Wow! What a great car. Visited with Paul yesterday at AutoRama. An exceptional build, better live than in the photos. Looking forward to seeing it in sunlight and being able to spend more time looking it over.
Jim

edwardb

02-27-2017, 12:06 AM

edwardb

02-27-2017, 12:07 AM

Great weekend show at the Detroit Autorama. Met and talked to a bunch of people, including club and forum members. The new 20th Anniversary Roadster received a ton of very positive comments. The classic shape draws a crowd, with many comments and surprised looks seeing the Coyote in there. The most common question this time around was not of the usual “Is it real?” variety. Factory Five is really well known and most recognize it as a replica in a positive way. But I had a bunch of “How much did it cost?” questions. Tried to respond with ranges and how the build plan can affect the cost.

All good and a not too bad an ending. First place Handbuilt Sports.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1189_zpsshozkij0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1189_zpsshozkij0.jpg.html)

Was happy our son came up from Texas and helped and hung out with Dad for the weekend. Sharon came for the Sunday festivities including the awards. Good times.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1198_zpshfcrsvip.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1198_zpshfcrsvip.jpg.html)

Everything is back home and the new Roadster parked back next to #7750. Now to collapse for a couple days.

Jazzman

02-27-2017, 01:48 AM

Huge congratulations! No one deserves it more! Your attention to detail showed through in every area. I am so pleased that the judges recognized all your hard work. You certainly earned it!!

wareaglescott

02-27-2017, 06:43 AM

Congratulations Paul! Very well deserved. If there was an award for the help you have given others you would win first place in that as well.
Go ahead and take a couple days off and then you can start the next build! haha

zilverx

02-27-2017, 07:38 AM

Congratulations on the well deserved award! It is a beautiful car and your documentation of the build has been an inspiration and great help to those of us who have followed you posts.

Cheers-

Boydster

02-27-2017, 07:53 AM

Congratulations. And Thank You. Your attention to every detail and willingness to post it all will help other builders for years to come.

Vette1972

02-27-2017, 09:16 AM

Congrats and it is well deserved. Thanks!

cgundermann

02-27-2017, 09:39 AM

Way to go Paul; you earned it! Echo everyone's MVP appreciation...

KDubU

02-27-2017, 11:59 AM

Congrats Paul!

Bdmac58

02-27-2017, 12:26 PM

Congratulations, Well Deserved.

M3ichael

02-27-2017, 12:28 PM

So Awesome!!! Congratulations Paul very much well deserved!

Yama-Bro

02-27-2017, 01:25 PM

Congrats!

JRL16

02-27-2017, 08:35 PM

Congrats Paul. It really was the best there.

edwardb

02-28-2017, 12:25 PM

After 16 pages, 616 posts, and >110K views (over 150K views between the two forums, crazy), I'm going to shut this build thread down. The Roadster is 100% completely assembled with everything working as it should (so far!). I need to aim the headlights and do a final check on the alignment, but other than that it’s ready to drive and enjoy. I’ll get started on the Michigan inspection, title and license process right away and it should be ready in plenty of time for spring. Right now, we’re tentatively planning to attend the 2017 Factory Five Open House, and we’re already registered for the London Cobra Show. Plus our local club has a full schedule of events planned. Looking forward to all of that!

Yesterday while moving cars around in the garage, seemed moving the new Roadster required a brief run around the block in my neighborhood. First time with the body on and (obviously) with everything complete. I took it real easy because it’s far from legal and I really don’t want to find out if I have any grouchy neighbors. But it’s very obvious this is going to be an awesome runner and driver. Can’t wait.

It’s been a blast sharing this build. It had enough detail and some new things (Mustang IRS, Gen2 Coyote, plus some others) that it really generated a lot of interest and tons of posts, messages, calls, texts, etc. All good and it was fun sharing and helping where I could. Thanks to everyone for your positive comments, encouragement, and suggestions along the way. I agreed with most of them. :)

I want to share this in conclusion. During the just completed Detroit Autorama, one guy came up to me and told me he appreciated my build as much or more than any of the other builds “over there” while waving in the general direction of the extremely high end builds including the Ridler finalists. He said it was because he knew I did this as an amateur in my own garage with my own sweat and blood as opposed to the professional builds being displayed. I’m sure that many of the other 700+ cars that were there were also labors of love, and I don’t deserve to be even talked about in the same breath as the Ridler builds. Check the winner here: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/2017-detroit-autorama-1933-ford-roadster-wins-ridler/. Rumor was it cost over $5 million to build. Absolutely stunning to see in person. But I appreciated the compliment and sentiment very much. Many of the questions I had during the show about how much one of these builds costs completely misses the satisfaction and sense of accomplishment. My son bought this plasma cut steel sign for me from a vendor at the show. Very cool and it will find a place of prominence in my man cave. He didn’t know it, but it’s also a marketing phrase used by Factory Five. It captures the sentiment perfectly:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1207_zps27gw8jav.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1207_zps27gw8jav.jpg.html)

With that, I’m done with the build thread. It’s been quite a ride. The new Coupe is at the top of the list for another project, maybe to start next winter. This weekend, talked to a couple Ford guys and received just a couple of inside tips about the 2018 (Gen3?) Coyote. Could be an interesting combination. We’ll see. Thanks again everyone, and looking forward to meeting more of you in person.

Jazzman

02-28-2017, 01:20 PM

Allow me to be the first of what I am sure will be many "thank you's" for your generosity, your wisdom, your attention to craftsmanship and detail, and last but not least, your build threads. You inspire many of us to look beyond what we think we can do to what is possible. You inspire us to dream and create. You exemplify the individuality of our hobby, while reinforcing the collaborative nature of this forum. In short, you are what we all should aspire to be.

I do believe there are a couple of minor follow ups that you may be too humble to address:

1. Your signature line needs to highlight the fact that #8674 is a 1st Place winner at the 2017 Detroit Autorama as the "Best Hand-Built Car".
2. Your thread should be made "sticky" at the top of the "Built Threads" page. Because it is so detailed and has so many valuable ideas, your thread should be required reading for everyone considering building a Roadster. #7750 could also be put into that same vein.
3. You really must load #8674 onto the SE trailer and haul it out to Huntington Beach in April. Yes, I know it is a long way from Michigan to California, but hey, you are retired right?! Every day is a holiday, everyday is a new adventure. That would be a great adventure!!

Again, thank you for all you do for all the rest of us. We are all in your debt! We will now eagerly await the next installment in your creative life.

Bdmac58

02-28-2017, 04:46 PM

I’ve had a dream of building a Factory Five Roaster since 1999, and hopefully soon my dream will come to pass, and I get to start my build.
Your build is an inspiration and pack full of wisdom, information and great Ideas.
Thank you for sharing this build and your knowledge.

wirelessnut

03-02-2017, 06:27 PM

Wow,............. just wow. I've been watching your build from the beginning. You, sir, are a true inspiration to all the rest of us. Congratulaions.

Papa

03-03-2017, 04:01 PM

Congratulations on a well-deserved 1st place! Your build definitely swayed my decision to order a kit instead of just buying a completed car. I hope you will still be ready to chime in with your advice as I run into my inevitable road blocks along the way when I finally get to start building my own this summer.

Thank you,
Dave

russelljones48

03-04-2017, 09:53 AM

I feel compelled to add my congratulations for your win as well as appreciation for your build documentation. You are, quite obviously, a master builder and your 1st place win seemed almost fore ordained as I started reading your build thread months ago. I agree with Jazzman's suggestions as well. What I would LOVE to see since I'm building a Coyote based M4 is an "indexed" version of your build thread so (and this is quite selfish) I don't have to page through too much to get answers (or not so I can search elsewhere). The last thing I'll offer is free room and board on a lake in NC if you'd like to come and "consult" on my build... :-)

RR20AC

03-07-2017, 08:15 PM

Paul everyone is asking what is the weight of these cars. Is the weight more or less with a coyote vs a sbf? Have you taken yours to the scales yet? Congratulations on the win! Jim

WarDamnEagle

03-07-2017, 08:31 PM

The factory five build manual seems informative, but this thread answers any questions the manual leaves unanswered. Thanks from all of us EdwardB, I know you have spent hours downloading pictures and explaining things to the rest of us neophytes. You are very generous with your time, I have asked several stupid questions on this forum and you are usually the first to respond. If you are not already, FF should put you on the payroll, reading your build seeing your knowledge and helpfullnesss makes me know I can do it.

edwardb

03-07-2017, 10:51 PM

Paul everyone is asking what is the weight of these cars. Is the weight more or less with a coyote vs a sbf? Have you taken yours to the scales yet? Congratulations on the win! Jim

Thanks Jim. The response to the new Roadster at the Detroit Autorama was really positive. Getting the trophy was a nice way to finish the weekend. :D I've never had any of my builds weighed. Based on info I've read on the forums, I always answer "around 2,200 pounds" when asked how much mine weigh. I think that is pretty close. The iron block/aluminum head SBF is close in weight to the significantly larger but all aluminum Coyote. So I suspect the weight is similar with either.

To everyone else -- thanks for all the other positive comments and notes of encouragement. This is something I really enjoy and with retirement especially have time for. I get a lot of satisfaction out of seeing other builds and having a small part in helping. Something I never really expected. The years in this hobby have been a giant learning experience for me. I haven't been at it as long as many that are on here. But I'm happy to share what I've learned.

Today I completed the first step in my title/registration process. Was able to get the safety inspection completed. Not without drama since the very first person I called didn't know what they were talking about, and it took most of the day to recover. But it's done. Tomorrow to the Secretary of State office (Michigan version of the DMV) to pay sales tax and get the title process started. Wish me luck. If that goes OK, should be legal and driving in about 8 weeks.

RR20AC

03-08-2017, 12:55 AM

State of Washington needs a scale weight for road taxes and licensing, guess all states are different. The scale wt on my work car, Prius is 2985.

edwardb

03-08-2017, 07:19 AM

State of Washington needs a scale weight for road taxes and licensing, guess all states are different. The scale wt on my work car, Prius is 2985.

You got that right. Huge difference across the board between states. When trying to sort through the inspection paperwork yesterday, a lady at the SOS office said "Michigan doesn't like assembled vehicles, so we're trying to make it as hard as possible so people won't do them." Hopefully she was just having a bad day and only speaking for herself. Didn't make me too happy as I was trying to sort through the process which has changed each of the three times I've done it.

I'm betting your Roadster is going to be way lighter than your Prius. Unless you put some of those big battery packs in your build. Weight isn't part of the equation for cars here in Michigan, so we aren't required to have it.

2bking

03-08-2017, 07:53 AM

First, very very nice job on #8674. As others have said, you set the bar for craftsmanship on these kits. You do considerable research behind the scenes to figure out the best options and methods and it shows in your completed product. OCD is some of it but attention to detail wins out in the end.

As far as weight on these, mine came in at 2380 on the certified scales with less than a half tank of gas and no roll bars or left/right mirrors. The only options I have that you don't (I think) are AC and ABS. I'm thinking these don't add up to 100 pounds so I would be surprised if the 2200 pound car is real with the sound/heat additives and carpet throughout. But then maybe my flip front has more weight in it than I think.

Jeff Kleiner

03-08-2017, 12:37 PM

... I would be surprised if the 2200 pound car is real with the sound/heat additives and carpet throughout. But then maybe my flip front has more weight in it than I think.

Point of reference...my 3 link roadster with a fuel injected aluminum headed small block, Power steering & brakes, insulated and carpeted came in at 2180 with a full tank of gas and my bag of tools (20# + or -) in the trunk.

Jeff

edwardb

03-08-2017, 05:32 PM

Thanks guys. I suspect somewhere in the 2,200 - 2,300 pound range is about right. And a little bit more when I'm sitting in it. But I'm not saying how much more. :rolleyes:

Since I'm here anyway, today's update on the title/registration process. Had everything exactly lined up with what was needed to complete my title application, copies made, backup information ready, etc. This was going to go well! Arrived at the Secretary of State office mid-morning and there was almost no line. This is good! Then, not so good. We are having 60+ mile per hour winds here today, and power popping off all over the place. We're on generator power at our house right now in fact. Anyway, power went off at the SOS office briefly then came back, but no computers and no phones. Waited for awhile but clearly it wasn't going to get fixed anytime soon. Checked the wait time at the next closest office (available on-line, at least they're a little progressive) and it was 40 people in line one hour wait. That was good enough for me. Hopped in the DD and showed up there. Waited the hour, and was helped by a very nice lady that hadn't done an assembled vehicle title application in a long time apparently. But she found all the necessary instructions, was happy with all my paperwork, and got it done. I'm 6% of the purchase price poorer (the tax man had to eventually show up) but a VIN is assigned and the application paperwork on it's way to Lansing. Takes about 8 weeks, and they will have my title and VIN tag. An inspector will come to my house to supposedly inspect the car again then give me the title and place the VIN tag. Then I can get a plate and start driving. Hopefully about the time nice spring weather arrives. There's always the chance Lansing could find something in the paperwork they don't like. But it's all exactly per the book, so hopefully not. This is my third time through the process in Michigan, and each time it's been a little different. And harder. But still not as hard as some states so I'm just getting through it.

Vette1972

03-08-2017, 08:05 PM

Edwardb,

Always nice to find a nice person at the DMV. In WV, I would drive an hour to avoid the mean people to get registrations and renewals done. I have over 100 vehicles and trailers to renew each year for work. I'm Transportation Director for our company. A new office opened about 20 minutes away. Now I go thru the door and they just wave me over to a window. Happy to see me as I have all my paperwork in order.

Looking forward to see your fine craftsmanship on the road! Congrats on your 1st place in the Detroit Show.

Len

Straversi

03-14-2017, 06:15 PM

[QUOTE=edwardb;234044]Progress continues with the wiring. I have everything in place now. Just need to make all the necessary connections and (hopefully) wrap it up. In a previous update I showed the power wiring from the front mounted battery to the disconnect along with the Coyote power distribution box wiring. Now for the rest.

First was the Ron Francis harness....

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4109_zpspaa3nibw.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Electrical/IMG_4109_zpspaa3nibw.jpg.html)

Now that you are in build retirement, hopefully you have some time for a few questions.

I understand (OK, I can follow) the wiring on the engine side of the firewall and now I'm trying work through the cockpit side of the firewall.

From your post #255, which I have segmented,
(1) "The only blue wire remaining is direct from the ignition switch to the start sense wire in the Coyote harness"

Are you referring to the light blue wire in the 16 pin connection labeled "Starter Request"?

(2) "Finally I broke into the fuel pump circuit in the RF fuse box and added the connection to the Coyote harness. The power and control for the fuel pump comes from the Coyote PDB and PCM, but it uses the existing RF wiring harness to get the +12V back to the in-tank fuel pump. It also uses the existing RF relay and inertia switch."

The FRR Coyote instructions show taking the Green power connection from the 16 pin Coyote harness and splicing it to the tan fuel pump line in the rear RF harness. They seem to be taking it out of the fuse panel altogether. I'm assuming you did it differently. Can you elaborate?

(3) "With that all done, installed the main RF harness into the chassis along with the fuse panel. I did the power wiring much like my last build. I used a Blue Seas Systems bus bar for the main power. I have an 8 gauge wire from the switched side of the master disconnect to the bus bar. Then the three main power wires from the RF harness are attached. These are the same three wires that are normally attached to a firewall solenoid instead making just a 6-8 inch trip to the bus bar. Then I added a Blue Seas Systems 150 amp fuse to the alternator circuit. Typically DD’s have a fusable link in the alternator circuit. In stock form the RF harness has no protection from an alternator failure. Not typically a problem, but still something I prefer to add."

I follow the RF feed from the top post of the power disconnect through the DS footbox and on to the 4 post buss. In the photo above, are the two leads coming out of the TOP of the buss related to your headlight control system? The other two leads coming out of the BOTTOM of the buss being from the RF Solenoid lead? Is there a 3rd line from the RF Solenoid lead attached on the buss? I see the jumper from the buss to the 150 amp fuse. What is the line at the bottom of the fuse? Lastly, what does DD's refer to? OK, that was more than a few questions.

Any help you can give is appreciated.
-Steve

edwardb

03-14-2017, 07:53 PM

Hi Steve. I'll take them in order.

1. Yes. The blue RF wire from the ignition switch start terminal ends up at the 16-pin Coyote pigtail. Cavity #3, Light Blue, Starter Motor Request (SMR). When the ignition key is turned to start, +12V is sent to the Coyote pigtail which initiates the start sequence. Note it only takes a blip of the key to start the engine. You don't have to hold the key over. Works like a start button. Once the sequence is started, the engine keeps cranking until it starts. Also note this is different than how the FF instructions show the start wiring. They show using a firewall solenoid and the RF harness controlling the start function as it's been in the past.

2. No, I followed the FF instructions, but with one important caveat. I followed the old instructions. If you follow the new instructions, the spot they have you cut the wire in the RF fuse panel takes the inertia switch out of the circuit. Not sure why, as I think the inertia switch is an important safety device. Maybe it's a mistake. They do mention taking the fuel pump fuse out of the fuse panel. But not the entire wire.

3. Yes, the two leads out of the top of that bus bar are for things I added. One is to the headlight module you mention. The other is for my front fog lights. Since both need always on battery power, just took the power from there, through the circuit breakers, and then to the devices. The two leads out of the bottom are the RF RED-BATTERY FEED and RF RED-IGN SW-SOL wires. I like to have a mega fuse between the alternator and the main battery circuit. So I put a jumper from the bus bar to the fuse. The RF RED ALTERNATOR FD wire is on the other side of the fuse. That accounts for the three large RF wires that are shown in the schematic going to a solenoid. Which I obviously didn't use.

Hope that all makes sense. :p

Straversi

03-14-2017, 11:23 PM

edwardb

03-15-2017, 08:24 AM

Yes, thanks that helps greatly.

I didn't have an old version of the FFR Coyote install guide but I downloaded the Hot Rod Coyote install guide and it still shows the old way.

65101

65102

This looks like it bypasses the 15 amp fuse but still runs through the relay.

Is this correct?

Can I delete the Coil/EFI Crank lead and the Alternator lead from the RF harness? Or am I getting ahead of myself?

You mentioned a fuel pump cut off switch, maybe under your dash? Is that recommended? Cut into the tan line coming out of the relay or the green line going in?. Does it matter which side?

-Steve

Yes, that older pic shows what I did. The fuse in the RF panel is removed. Using that wire, the power for both the RF panel fuel pump relay and the actual in-tank fuel pump come from the Coyote green fuel pump wire via the Coyote PDB. The Coyote PDB has the necessary fuse for the fuel pump. The inertia switch wires complete the ground circuit for the relay. Inertia switch closed = relay grounded, relay closed, +12V from Coyote PDB goes to the fuel pump. Inertia switch open = relay open, no power to fuel pump. Exactly how you want it to work. For the fuel pump switch, I don't know if it's recommended or not. It's just something I wanted, and yes it's on the center dash support underneath and out of sight. Mainly for diagnostic purposes (can crank the engine without it starting) and also a hidden security feature if I'm so inclined. But I didn't switch the main fuel pump wire. That's carrying a lot of current and that would need a substantial switch. I added a small rocker switch in one of the inertia switch wires. So opening the switch is the same as the inertia switch being open and breaks power to the fuel pump via the relay. Pretty simple.

For the RF ORG-EFI OR COIL wire, I used that one to connect to the Coyote pigtail cavity 5 Light Green Ignition Relay Trigger wire. The Coyote system needs ignition switched +12V to wake it up and keep it running. The RF ORG-EFI OR COIL wire is the perfect candidate.

For the alternator wire, I'm not sure what you're asking. You need the main +12V battery feed wire from the RF harness (discussed in the last response) to the large post on the alternator. Then you need the alternator connector from the Coyote harness into the connector block on the alternator. Those two things provide the entire alternator function. There is a brown alternator wire coming off the RF ignition switch harness that goes to a connector on the end of the RF alternator harness wire. Maybe that's what you're asking about. That one can be deleted. Not used.

I uploaded a wiring spreadsheet in my build thread. It has a lot of detail and maybe would help if you don't have it. It's post #325 here: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=243285&viewfull=1#post243285

Continued good luck with the wiring!

Straversi

03-15-2017, 11:40 AM

For the alternator wire, I'm not sure what you're asking. You need the main +12V battery feed wire from the RF harness (discussed in the last response) to the large post on the alternator. Then you need the alternator connector from the Coyote harness into the connector block on the alternator. Those two things provide the entire alternator function. There is a brown alternator wire coming off the RF ignition switch harness that goes to a connector on the end of the RF alternator harness wire. Maybe that's what you're asking about. That one can be deleted. Not used.

I uploaded a wiring spreadsheet in my build thread. It has a lot of detail and maybe would help if you don't have it. It's post #325 here: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=243285&viewfull=1#post243285

Continued good luck with the wiring!

Ok, as I read this and look at the RF Schematic again, it looks like the RF Alternator FD line runs from the Starter Solenoid branch to the Alternator Branch of the untouched FR harness and not running through the fuse panel. Probably should have stripped back the conduit to make things clear.

You are taking that RF Alternator FD line and running it directly from the large post on the alternator, through the firewall and connecting it to the bottom of the Mega Fuse, yes?

I see in the last photo from your post # 315 that you have a second small conduit passing through your firewall. Is this for the RF Alternator FD line, tach lead, water and oil connections?

Since I've already exposed myself as wiring challenged, you refer to DD's. What does DD stand for?

My wife has lost a little confidence in my abilities as I walk from garage to office, carrying wiring harnesses with numerous schematics in hand, mumbling to myself and making notes. Last night, she asked "is this going to be safe?"

I'm going to have a hard time making her believe that most people mount a fire extinguisher between the seats, just to be period correct.

Can't believe I missed the spread sheet link. Thank you!
-Steve

edwardb

03-15-2017, 12:18 PM

Correct. The large gauge alternator wire from the solenoid area on the RF schematic does not go through the fuse panel. If you were to strip all the insulation and convolute away, you'd see it going from there through the main harness and back out the long lead to be connected to the alternator. That's how it's physically connected. But since all the main power leads, including the feed to the panel, alternator, etc. are connected, the output from the alternator is everywhere on the harness. With the car running and the alternator doing its thing, the voltage everywhere in the harness will be what's coming out of the alternator. Typically somewhere in the 14v range. Hope that doesn't confuse things too much.

I connect the alternator feed line to bus bar through the mega fuse as discussed before. Then use the long alternator lead to attach to the alternator post. After removing the extra connections it has. You only need one large ring terminal to attach to the Coyote alternator post.

Yes, the smaller lead you see going through the firewall is the water temp, oil pressure, tach, and alternator.

"DD" stands for Daily Driver. Kind of a generic term referring to the mass produced cars we drive each day. Sorry I didn't answer that before.

Straversi

03-15-2017, 12:29 PM

Correct. The large gauge alternator wire from the solenoid area on the RF schematic does not go through the fuse panel. If you were to strip all the insulation and convolute away, you'd see it going from there back out the long lead to be connected to the alternator. That's how it's physically connected. But since all the main power leads, including the feed to the panel, alternator, etc. are connected, the output from the alternator is everywhere on the harness. With the car running and the alternator doing its thing, the voltage everywhere in the harness will be what's coming out of the alternator. Typically somewhere in the 14v range. Hope that doesn't confuse things too much.

Yes, the smaller lead you see going through the firewall is the water temp, oil pressure, tach, and alternator.

"DD" stands for Daily Driver. Kind of a generic term referring to the mass produced cars we drive each day. Sorry I didn't answer that before.

Thank you.

I'll tell our friends that I can follow a recipe, but my wife can cook. The difference is subtle when things go right. The difference is dramatic when things go wrong.
You are a Master Chef. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. If our paths ever cross, I'm buying!

-Steve

edwardb

03-24-2017, 02:42 PM

I said I was done with the build thread. But I did have a final punch list after Autorama. So this really is the last progress report and maybe has a couple details those following the thread could use.

I’m a few weeks into the 8-10 week waiting period for my Michigan title and VIN tag. Haven’t heard anything, so hoping that’s good news. The weather is gradually getting warmer. With any luck this is going to get wrapped up by the time driving season starts. Needless to say, I’m anxious to get driving.

I put some protection film on the rear wheel flares right behind the doors. This is by far the area that takes the biggest beating from road debris. I bought of chunk of Xpel Ultimate on eBay and cut my own using patterns made for #7750. The Xpel is supposed to be self healing and depending on who you believe better than the usual 3M variety. Could be the same stuff or from the same factory. I’m not sure but it’s OK. Went on the flares fine using the normal wet soapy water process. I played around a little with putting some on the nose, but gave up. There are just too many curves combined with my complete inexperience. Even smaller pieces down low I couldn’t get to lay down satisfactorily. The jury is out whether having film on the front really is a good idea anyway. I’m going to drive without anything on the front, just like I have before. It only took a few hours over several days (as things were drying) to clean up two years of road rash on #7750. I’m OK with that. Goes with the car being a driver.

I ordered a new snapless tonneau cover from Phillip and Kay Deal. Supposed to be done in the next week or two, but no hurry. They are so nice to deal with. Confirmed the Car Cover World cover I had fit OK. Even though officially a single roll bar version it fits the twin rolls bar setup on this build good enough for the (hopefully!) few times I have to use it. The “front” marking on the cover was fading to the point of disappearing so every time I used it involved hunting for that mark. I traced a Factory Five logo onto the front using permanent markers. Looks painted on and turned out pretty good (even if I do say so myself) and easy to find. Got the headlights aimed. Received word from Watson’s Streetworks that they had updated the LED headlight package to use Hella Vision Plus lenses instead of the Autopal ones I received. Also DOT approved BTW. Talked to them briefly and decided to go with the updated lenses since this was a good time to do so. They’re nice and seem a little clearer and better focused. I didn’t particularly like driving #7750 at night because it really was pretty hard to see. I think this is going to be a big improvement.

The biggest remaining task was front and rear wheel alignment. I roughed in the alignment while it was still a go-kart. But didn’t take the time to get it perfect, plus ride height was still pretty rough. Yesterday I wrapped up the alignment and I’m satisfied I have it dialed in to the specs. I was very happy to find one of the bays in my new garage is almost exactly level side-to-side and only a couple tenths of a degree downslope. Worked well. One thing I learned doing the rough alignment was that my Fastrax alignment tool didn’t like the new Factory Five 18-inch wheels. Both because of the size but also because of the cool round edge. I have the 91030 no lip adapters, but the 91000 gauge wouldn’t quite reach. I got through it for the rough alignment by just kind of taping it in place. But I need a better way for the final alignment. I ended up make a small extension to the top connection point and the no lip adapters worked exactly the way they’re supposed to. Visible in this pic:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1248_zps5cns3lrg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1248_zps5cns3lrg.jpg.html)

This is my first IRS build, so first time with a rear wheel alignment. The new IRS setup is supposed to be much easier than the previous design. Loosen the jam nuts, dial it in, tighten, then go. Couldn’t be easier, right? Well, almost. It was easy to get to the adjustment points with the body off. Not quite so easy with it on. The more challenging part I found was the large camber adjustment nut on the UCA is almost impossible to turn with weight on the suspension. Reaching from under the car, once you wiggle to where you finally have a wrench on it, the leverage is such I could barely move it. Charles Atlas I am not. So I jacked it up each time to make an adjustment. Then dropped it back down, rolled it back and forth and bounced on it a couple times to settle the suspension, and checked the measurement. They were pretty close to start. Once to the spec, checked the toe. That one can be reached without jacking the car. There is some interaction between the two, so it takes a few times back and forth to get them both right. The PS came in very quickly. The DS took a lot longer. The instructions say -0.5 to -0.75 degrees camber and 1/8-inch toe in. Mine came in at exactly -0.75 degrees on both sides and the 1/8-inch toe in. Once it was done, I took the wheels off to lock in the jam nuts. I just didn’t trust I could get them sufficiently tight without full access. I used red Loctite on the two camber jam nuts per Factory Five’s recommendation. I didn’t put any on the toe arm nuts. I paint marked all the jam nuts so I can watch and confirm they aren’t moving.

One of the challenges of doing a home alignment is getting everything properly aligned with the chassis. It’s obviously important to have the required toe adjustment. But it also needs to be exactly lined up with the chassis. Some guys use strings for this, and that’s fine. For my last couple builds I’ve been using toe plates and a magnetic level with a laser pointer instead of strings. I think it works really well. Here is one of the Heidts toe plates with the level attached. Note this picture is missing the high tech double garbage bag “turn plates” I put under the tires. For the front toe in, the laser dot shows on the edge of the rear tires since the rear track is wider than the front. But projecting forward, there was nothing for the laser to hit. So I cut two pieces of 1/8-inch hardboard exactly square and exactly the same size. They slide behind the front tires and bank against the 4-inch frame tube and the ground. Then when adjusting the toe, not only am I looking for the 1/8-inch toe in, I’m measuring where the laser dot hits the hardboard and confirming they're the same on both sides. Hopefully that makes sense. Seemed to work really well and I’m satisfied my rear wheels are exactly tracking to the frame.

Toe plate and level on rear wheels:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1250_zpsvmb4hke5.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1250_zpsvmb4hke5.jpg.html)

Laser dot to confirm alignment to the frame. Adjusted so each side was exactly the same dimension from the end of the board along with the proper toe in.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1253_zps3ughajnu.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Final%20Assembly/IMG_1253_zps3ughajnu.jpg.html)

Moving to the front alignment, that was all pretty normal. While a bit of a reach, the UCA adjustment sleeves can be reached with the car on the ground and the body on. Tie rod ends are easy. I was able to get to the +8 degrees caster (power steering setting) without altering the rear sleeve as some have had to do. -0.5 degrees camber and 1/16 inch toe in also landed right on the numbers. I used the laser dot method described before to make sure with the steering wheel exactly centered and the toe in set to 1/16 inch the dot projected to the same spot on the rear tires on each side. Assuming they were set correctly (which I think they were!) then the front should also be on track. With one final check, locked everything down and called alignment done. While I was under there, also added a steering rack travel limit spacer on each side since my tires were hitting the F-panels.

One final note regarding alignment. For those with a 4-post lift, assuming the car is level while on the lift, you have a big advantage for home alignments. You won't have all the fun crawling around and reaching. Certainly would make the process a lot easier.

There are only two items left on my punch list: (1) Continue to monitor ride height. I’m pretty Ok where it is now. We’ll see how much it settles. (2) I want to remove the fuel pressure gauge on the fuel regulator once I’m driving and confirm the fuel pressure is exactly where it should be. Since it’s not on the engine, maybe not the safety hazard that some consider it to be when mounted next to a carb and subject to engine vibration, heat, etc. But I’m going to take it off anyway. No need to take a chance, and can’t read it without a mirror anyway.

Ok, that’s really it. Thanks again everyone for following the build and your incredible comments and support throughout. Road trip in the next week or two to deliver #7750 to its new owner. Then hope it will be time to get some miles on the new build. Said it before, but will again. We are planning to be at the Factory Five Open House in June, and then already registered for London a couple weeks later. Hope to catch up with some of you at one or both events.

Now about that Gen 3 Coupe…

wareaglescott

03-24-2017, 03:02 PM

edwardb

03-24-2017, 03:35 PM

Paul,
Is a picture of the clear film you applied feasible or is it to clear? Maybe a picture of the template? I am interested in doing this as well but am having a hard time visualizing.
Thanks for the alignment tips. I was thinking the other day the 4 post with the pneumatic jack is really going to come in handy for alignment. I did the exact same mod to make my tool fit the 18" wheels.

Now I realize you want to shut this thread down but there is just to much good info. You will probably be responding to questions in this thread for years to come!;)

No worries! I'll keep answering questions. For a while anyway. :) A picture of my car wouldn't help much to see the clear film. They are practically invisible. This thread shows some different ones you can see so you can get an idea. http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/245065-new-idea-fender-spats-pics.html. I make them a little higher than most of the pics. Maybe similar to post #28. I made my own patterns out of kraft paper. I have the film tight against the inside corner (by the door) and all the way over to the edge of the wheel well opening. Down to a point at the bottom, as low as it will go. And then across the top with a radius on each corner. I have a pattern for each side. They are not exactly symmetrical. I used a Mk3 pattern that was published on the other forum for the first set I made for #7750. Wasn't an exact fit, but I thought good enough. As luck would have it, my first chip was right off the edge of where the film didn't cover. These flares really takes a beating. I try to cover as much as I can.

Dave Howard

03-25-2017, 10:33 AM

edwardb

03-25-2017, 11:04 AM

A good detailing shop should be able to custom wrap the front of the roadster (front line of the hood opening forward ) to provide the protection. Another option is to use 3M Paint Defender system. I've applied it to the front and it it quite easy and looks very professional. A little piece of mind when putting all those mile on.

Thanks. I've already checked into both options. Talked to a few detail shops. Most don't want anything to do with custom paint and especially on fiberglass. Those that might be willing were talking crazy prices. North of $1K to start. I can do a lot of touch up for that.

The 3M Paint Defender system has been discontinued for over a year. Since the shelf life was only supposed to be one year, stock that's still being sold (and it is possible to still find it) is likely out of shelf life. Plus pretty mediocre reviews from what I've seen. Probably why it's not around any more. It's been talked about quite a bit on the other forum.

rx7922

04-04-2017, 02:06 PM

edwardb

04-04-2017, 03:44 PM

WOW Paul,

I am speechless, over the past few days i read through your build and i was blown away with the amount of detail you put in the car. I hope one day i can also build my car with some of your ideas. I might just have to fly you out to California to come help me lol.

You got through the whole thread in a few days? Speed reader?? ;) Seriously, thanks for the comments. This build thread morphed into something I wasn't really expecting. But with all the feedback, questions, messages, phone calls, etc. all the detail seemed appropriate. I saw your intro post. Hopefully you will be able to join the party sometime soon.

rx7922

04-04-2017, 04:07 PM

You got through the whole thread in a few days? Speed reader?? ;) Seriously, thanks for the comments. This build thread morphed into something I wasn't really expecting. But with all the feedback, questions, messages, phone calls, etc. all the detail seemed appropriate. I saw your intro post. Hopefully you will be able to join the party sometime soon.

I loved reading through it, it was like a novel, it got me hooked and i couldn't put my laptop down.

Railroad

05-07-2017, 10:54 AM

ttt

boat737

05-08-2017, 06:36 PM

I showed the hood latches in the last update. The remaining step was to add the aluminum catches on the underside of the hood opening. The kit provides a couple of pieces that work OK. But some years ago I saw an idea in another build thread about cutting a profile into the catches that matches the top profile of the hood latch. Gives them a nice snap when they’re turned into place and they stay centered. I’ve done that on each of my builds. Takes a bit larger piece of aluminum angle stock. I used 1 by 1 inch angle, 2 inches long. Mounted them on the underside of the hood opening just behind the inside of the hood opening lip. Then determined where the latch would hit at that point, and cut the profile as pictured. It works really well. Thank you to whoever had that idea. The other thing I do is bolt them on now, burying the head of the bolts in the hood lip with a layer of HSRF. Then the bolts will be hidden when painted.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_0826_zpshjbc55kl.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2012102016/IMG_0826_zpshjbc55kl.jpg.html)

Question for you Paul. On the hood latch catch bracket, did you HSRF only the machine screws into the body lip, and just bolt on the angle bracket? Or did you HSRF the entire bracket to the underside hood opening lip? The problem I'm running into is it's not really a smooth, 90 degree surface under the opening lip. The Bracket wants to roll under the lip opening. Seems it would be more secure if the bracket was sitting on a better surface, like a fresh bed of HSRF.

edwardb

05-08-2017, 07:42 PM

Question for you Paul. On the hood latch catch bracket, did you HSRF only the machine screws into the body lip, and just bolt on the angle bracket? Or did you HSRF the entire bracket to the underside hood opening lip? The problem I'm running into is it's not really a smooth, 90 degree surface under the opening lip. The Bracket wants to roll under the lip opening. Seems it would be more secure if the bracket was sitting on a better surface, like a fresh bed of HSRF.

Yes, the bracket is sitting in HSRF plus the machine screws. I agree that area is irregular and not very flat. HSRF to the rescue.

boat737

05-08-2017, 11:43 PM

Yes, the bracket is sitting in HSRF plus the machine screws. I agree that area is irregular and not very flat. HSRF to the rescue.

Thanks Paul, You da man.

billrfrank

05-29-2017, 05:18 PM

when you hooked the yellow tach wire to coil which coil and which wire did you use

edwardb

05-29-2017, 07:53 PM

when you hooked the yellow tach wire to coil which coil and which wire did you use

I connected my tach wire to the coil on cylinder #7. But it doesn't matter. Any of the eight can be used. I chose #7 because it fit best with my harness and engine cover. But pick the one that works best for you. Any of them will provide the 1 pulse per 2 revolutions or 1/2 pulse per 1 revolution signal needed for the tach.

Each coil connector has two wires. One is common for all and is the same color. The signal wire for each is a different color. The signal wire is the one you want to tap. The signal wire on #7 was yellow.

This previous post in this build thread has more details plus some pictures: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=221568&viewfull=1#post221568

Note I can only confirm this works with Speedhut tach, and it must be calibrated to the 1/2 pulse per 1 revolution setting. I believe the Autometer tach requires an actual tach adapter with several additional connections. That's what I've seen in other posts. But I can't personally verify that.

billrfrank

05-30-2017, 04:17 PM

edwardb

05-30-2017, 06:49 PM

also I am hooking up alt lite when starting.The wiring states us 510 ohm resistor between the 2 wires then hook up 1 wire to ign switch battery wire and the other to the brown wire on acc side of switch.When I do that the lite stays on when ignition off what am I doing wrong thanks Bill F

I've not tried to use an alternator light on any of my builds including this Coyote build. I'm comfortable scanning the voltmeter gauge while regularly scanning all the gauges. So I can't give any specific help or advice. Sorry.

There isn't any mention in the Coyote Controls Pack instructions of an alternator light. The alternator function and wiring are all tailored to the Coyote Motorcraft alternator. So it's not clear to me an alternator light is feasible with this setup. But again, that's based on zero knowledge or experience.

Straversi

06-10-2017, 01:57 PM

Yes, that older pic shows what I did. The fuse in the RF panel is removed. Using that wire, the power for both the RF panel fuel pump relay and the actual in-tank fuel pump come from the Coyote green fuel pump wire via the Coyote PDB. The Coyote PDB has the necessary fuse for the fuel pump. The inertia switch wires complete the ground circuit for the relay. Inertia switch closed = relay grounded, relay closed, +12V from Coyote PDB goes to the fuel pump. Inertia switch open = relay open, no power to fuel pump. Exactly how you want it to work. For the fuel pump switch, I don't know if it's recommended or not. It's just something I wanted, and yes it's on the center dash support underneath and out of sight. Mainly for diagnostic purposes (can crank the engine without it starting) and also a hidden security feature if I'm so inclined. But I didn't switch the main fuel pump wire. That's carrying a lot of current and that would need a substantial switch. I added a small rocker switch in one of the inertia switch wires. So opening the switch is the same as the inertia switch being open and breaks power to the fuel pump via the relay. Pretty simple.

For the RF ORG-EFI OR COIL wire, I used that one to connect to the Coyote pigtail cavity 5 Light Green Ignition Relay Trigger wire. The Coyote system needs ignition switched +12V to wake it up and keep it running. The RF ORG-EFI OR COIL wire is the perfect candidate.

For the alternator wire, I'm not sure what you're asking. You need the main +12V battery feed wire from the RF harness (discussed in the last response) to the large post on the alternator. Then you need the alternator connector from the Coyote harness into the connector block on the alternator. Those two things provide the entire alternator function. There is a brown alternator wire coming off the RF ignition switch harness that goes to a connector on the end of the RF alternator harness wire. Maybe that's what you're asking about. That one can be deleted. Not used.

I uploaded a wiring spreadsheet in my build thread. It has a lot of detail and maybe would help if you don't have it. It's post #325 here: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=243285&viewfull=1#post243285

Continued good luck with the wiring!

Hi EduardB
Sorry to throw this question into your build thread but I don't know how to send a PM with photo.
I'm ready for first start and the motor is turning over but nothing from the fuel pump. I thought I was going to hear it kick in from reading other threads but nada. Does this connection at the RF fuse box look correct?

68864

68865

I removed the RF fuel pump fuse, cut the tan wire and spliced it to the red wire in the photo. The red wire connects to the green wire in the Coyote pigtail. Did I get this connection right? If so, any ideas?

-Steve

edwardb

06-10-2017, 07:46 PM

I'm out of town for the Factory Five open house and won't be home until Monday PM. All my documentation files and schematics are at home and I don't remember the specific info to provide without them. Your pictures are also a little small, so it's not easy to pick the specific details. Couple of responses I can provide before more getting more details later. Yes, the fuel pump should start immediately when the ignition key is moved from off to run. For prior Coyote versions it would turn on and stay on. For the 2015+ Gen 2 version, the pump runs for several seconds and stops until you move the key from run to start and the engine cranks and start. But you will see the fuel pressure at the regulator gauge immediately even in the very short run when the key is initially turned.

The wiring concept here is (1) The fuel pump blunt lead wire from the Coyote harness provides the +12V to run the fuel pump. The Coyote PDB contains the relay and fuse for this Coyote circuit. (2) The RF harness wiring from the fuse panel to the fuel pump location is used to carry the +12V to run the fuel pump. (3) The relay in the RF harness should be left in the circuit in order for the inertia switch to be functional. (4) The wires cut at the RF panel allow the +12V from the Coyote PDB to be attached which in turn power the RF relay and the fuel pump. The RF fuse for the fuel pump is out of the circuit, so can be removed. (5) The inertia switch completes the ground circuit for the RF relay. If the inertia switch is opened, the ground circuit is broken, the relay de-engergized, and the fuel pump power is interrupted.

Maybe this general concept information helps to troubleshoot for now. An easy test would be to measure the voltage on the Coyote fuel pump blunt lead when the key is turned on. You should observe +12V for several seconds with the key on the "on" position. If the +12V is there, the problem is somewhere in the link between the Coyote harness and the RF harness, e.g. where/how you're breaking into the RF harness. If the +12V is not there, then start looking on the Coyote side starting with the fuel pump fuse and relay in the Coyote PDB.

Post what you find out and what else you try/learn. If not solved, I'll get more information once I get home. Good luck.

Straversi

06-12-2017, 05:46 PM

edwardb

06-12-2017, 06:58 PM

Thanks, I'm am not getting 12V at the blunt lead (dark green). I am getting 12V at the ignition trigger (Lt green). Ford Racing techs told me to check my grounds. I'll get that done and report back on a separate thread. Sounds like pilot error, not surprising, is involved.

OK. The harness has multiple grounds. But agreed they need to be solid, starting with the main large ground wire that Ford wants hard wired directly to the battery ground, which I did.

I'm back home and checked my build documentation. Best I can tell from your picture, you broke into the RF fuel pump wiring at the right place to keep the relay and inertia switch in play. Below is the picture from an older version of the FF Coyote installation manual. Using this location the Coyote PDB is powering both the relay and the fuel pump through the RF harness. Later FF Coyote instructions, including the most recent, show the relay bypassed. They show wiring the Coyote PDB fuel pump lead (blunt green) directly to the RF fuel pump harness wire. Runs the fuel pump fine that way, but takes away the inertia switch.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/Fuel_Pump_RF_Coyote_zpsuatldxet.png (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/Fuel_Pump_RF_Coyote_zpsuatldxet.png.html)

Straversi

06-28-2017, 09:28 AM

The doors I made from two pieces of aluminum. I used a .090 inch thick piece for the inside, and a .040 inch thick piece with the same 1/8 inch sculpting foam as the rest of the dash for the outside. I made them basically zero clearance to the opening, taking into account the thickness of the leather. Made getting the hinge alignment pretty critical, but turned out OK. Just a lot of fiddling getting the exact spots. I captured the screws for the door side of the hinges between the two door halves. The final product is a little heavy and in hindsight .040 inch thick material for both halves would have been fine. But it’s not noticeable when opening and closing.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3865_zpseciulhn2.jpg[/URL]

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3855_zpsfkpc6enm.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Instrument%20Panel/IMG_3855_zpsfkpc6enm.jpg.html)[/QUOTE]

Paul, can you tell me how deep you made your glove box? Also, are the inner and outer glove box door panels just glued together with the hinge bolts captured between? Anything but glue and the latch joining them? Beautiful, by the way.
-Steve

edwardb

06-28-2017, 09:55 AM

Paul, can you tell me how deep you made your glove box? Also, are the inner and outer glove box door panels just glued together with the hinge bolts captured between? Anything but glue and the latch joining them? Beautiful, by the way. -Steve

Hey Steve. Thanks. I'm real happy with how it turned out. The glovebox is 3-inches deep to the back of the dash. About 3-1/4 inches to the front. Yes, the inner and outer panels are glued together with several nice large puddles of JB Weld assisted by the latch assembly. The hinge bolts are captured on the inner panel. It all seems quite strong and has held up fine so far.

Jeff Kleiner

06-28-2017, 05:42 PM

Paul,
Hardly got a chance to say "hello" at LCS but Jeff Miller and I were out walking the parking lot early Saturday AM and had a chance to give the car a once over...it's as good in person as in photos. Two words my friend---"GOLD STANDARD" :cool:

Enjoy the miles!

Jeff

edwardb

06-28-2017, 09:22 PM

Jeff Kleiner

06-29-2017, 05:30 AM

...You guys must have been out there early...

Bats are nocturnal you know ;)

Jeff

Jdav

07-06-2017, 08:54 AM

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3718_zpspbovjyr7.jpg[/URL]

Here you can see the connections I made to the Spectre intake. The top one is for the CMCV system, and the lower one (just visible, sorry) is the DS PCV line. I used connectors from JLT Performance mentioned in some other Coyote build threads. They are aluminum, and fit into a rubber grommet in the intake. I used some Permatex Ultra Black RTV when installing them. Seems to work perfectly. The factory connectors clip right on.

Just a heads up - JLT changed their part number for the PCV connector. New part number is: ftg-hd-jlt5000p

BikingJohn

07-08-2017, 10:49 PM

edwardb

07-09-2017, 05:55 AM

Paul
I have been following your build for some time now and appreciate the level of detail you have presented. I'm currently in the middle of my build (even though I haven't posted yet) getting ready to send the body to paint. I recently received my coyote 5.0 and was prepping it for installation and noticed the vacuum line that runs from the rear of the intake out to the passenger side front of the motor. I did a quick search and ran across your recent posting on the correct use of this line as a vacuum source for the cmcv. No problem I understand how to hook it up but just wanted to confirm back to you in case anyone else asks, I have the latest version Coyote which uses two vacuum motors to actuate the intake cmcv and both motors are supplied vacuum by this single line.

Also a quick question, I just received the RT turn signal system and noticed that folks using it are installing a nice polished bezel on the dash where the post goes through the dash. Who is the source of the bezel?

The RT bezel is from Mike Everson. http://www.replicaparts.com/russ%20thompson%20turn%20signal%20page.htm. Nice part and works perfectly.

I've spoken with several builders with the newer Coyote including those who've posted on the other thread about the CMCV hookup. All versions use two vacuum motors and nothing has changed on how they need to be hooked up to get a vacuum signal and actuate. Vacuum from the front of the engine needs to be provided to the nipple on the back of the intake which is a vacuum reservoir that the CMCV system uses. The thread pictures and descriptions of this part hasn't changed. The line on the PS (right) is attached to this nipple on the back of the intake. It can be removed and replaced with a new line as I did. Or it can be modified and connected to the vacuum port on the front of the engine by the intake. Either way works. What has changed is Ford eliminated the line from the vacuum switches to the intake on the DS (left) of the engine. They vent the switches to atmosphere right at the back of the engine. So nothing needs to be done including providing a connection to the intake. The installation is actually simpler now.

BikingJohn

07-09-2017, 03:41 PM

edwardb

07-09-2017, 04:06 PM

Paul

FYI

One thing I haven't seen anyone mention is that the factory connection that supplies vacuum to the CMCV system has a one way check valve at the end of the hose just where it exits the front of the motor. I assume this valve is to maintain vacuum in the intake reservoir during low vacuum conditions and should be installed for proper operation of the CMCV system. For my install, I used the factory hose and connected directly at the input port of the check valve through a T-fitting. One side of the T feeds the pressure regulator the other side reduces down and connects to the vacuum port on the TB. This is a clean install and will be under the intake cover. When I get around to posting my build I will share photos. (too much fun building) ;)

John B

Yea, others have mentioned the check valve. Certainly doesn't hurt anything. I'm not sure it's a big issue though. This same vacuum source is also used for the power brakes in a Mustang. Check the vacuum diagram. There it would be critical to have uninterrupted vacuum. For the CMCV, not so critical. If you measure the vacuum on that front port by the throttle body, you'll see it has plenty of vacuum at all RPM's. Plenty IMO to keep the CMCV circuit going especially since the power brakes aren't there to draw anything. Plus I've been driving for three months now (a bunch more today) and haven't received any codes for the CMCV. None for anything actually. So it seems to work OK without the check valve. But like I said, doesn't hurt anything.

Interested in seeing photos of your build! ;)

BikingJohn

07-09-2017, 06:20 PM

Yea, others have mentioned the check valve. Certainly doesn't hurt anything. I'm not sure it's a big issue though. This same vacuum source is also used for the power brakes in a Mustang. Check the vacuum diagram. There it would be critical to have uninterrupted vacuum. For the CMCV, not so critical. If you measure the vacuum on that front port by the throttle body, you'll see it has plenty of vacuum at all RPM's. Plenty IMO to keep the CMCV circuit going especially since the power brakes aren't there to draw anything. Plus I've been driving for three months now (a bunch more today) and haven't received any codes for the CMCV. None for anything actually. So it seems to work OK without the check valve. But like I said, doesn't hurt anything.

Interested in seeing photos of your build! ;)

Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it. On another note, how is the driving experience with the coyote compared to your other builds?

edwardb

07-09-2017, 11:11 PM

Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it. On another note, how is the driving experience with the coyote compared to your other builds?

This is what I wrote a couple months ago in my graduation thread http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24226-Graduation-8674-20th-Anniversary-Roadster-03-of-20:

I’ve had the new Roadster out several times, including earlier today for my wife's first ride and turned the odometer over to 50 miles. What can I say? It’s simply incredible. The Coyote runs beautifully. Sounds different than an old school motor that’s for sure. But the way it starts and drives is amazing. Throttle response is instant. Starting at 3,000 – 4,000 RPM and up, it’s pulls like crazy. But it's also quite happy putzing along at 1,500 RPM in 5th, as I found out today. The SBF’s in my other builds, after tuning, ran very well. But this is a whole other level. I couldn’t recommend the Coyote any higher, and really happy I got talked into it.

Just short of 700 miles now, and nothing has changed. Love how it runs and would make the same decision again.

Jdav

07-15-2017, 08:07 PM

edwardb

07-15-2017, 09:13 PM

I was in the Detroit area and EdwardB was kind enough to let me stop in and see his build in person. It is stunning and such a clean build. Wow. And of course he's as nice in person as you would expect ��
Thanks for spending some time with us.

Hey Joel. Thanks for the generous comments and you're welcome. It was good to meet you in person.

Now get that build over the finish line. :)

rezell3d

07-16-2017, 01:46 PM

Hello Paul,

I just recently seen this build. Thanks. I am amazed at your attention to detail. I purchased a 1976 Porsche 912E for my son and we are starting the mechanical restoration on it. It really got me looking for an older 911 to restore. After seeing this build I'm going to get another MK4, but this time I'm going to complete it. Again thanks.

Rod

Railroad

08-25-2017, 12:34 PM

To the top, so I can research easier.

Mark Eaton

09-04-2017, 01:20 AM

Don't you just bolt on the rear bumper couplers and therefore can adjust them during the final fitting of the body shell?

edwardb

09-04-2017, 05:21 AM

Don't you just bolt on the rear bumper couplers and therefore can adjust them during the final fitting of the body shell?

I assume you're referring to my comments in the build thread to install the couplers with the proper spacing? Yes, perhaps you could adjust them during the final fitting of the body. But I haven't tried so can't say for sure. The whole point of the coupler mod (versus using the kit provided through bolts) is that the bolts are not easily accessible once the tank is installed, and that applies to the head of the bolts used to hold the couplers in place as well. Get them installed in the proper place to start and no reason to even try to reach them.

Mark Eaton

09-13-2017, 11:02 PM

edwardb

09-14-2017, 05:44 AM

Did you consider using the Duplicolor Bed Armor product on the drivers compartment panels and other panels instead of the Lizard skin? Also, I found a product, T-Rex Bed liner which got pretty good reviews on Amazon which has the advantage of being able to spray on with air compressor spray gun. Thoughts on Spray On bed liner?

I don't know anything about T-Rex bed liner. Never used it. Spray-on sounds good, and so does a 2-part catalyzed system. Should be harder than an air dry product like Duplicolor Bed Armor. Probably will try something like that on my next build. But can't say much beyond that.

But you're asking about two different things. At least for how I did my build. Lizard Skin has two products mainly intended to be thermal and sound barriers. I only applied these products on the inside of the cockpit and trunk. Before installing the carpet. While the Lizard Skin is relatively durable, IMO it's a bit too soft to use as a protective coating in the same way you'd use bed liner. Lizard Skin does sell a black topcoat spray to go over their thermal and sound products to give it some added protection. I've experimented with it. It's OK, but goes on pretty thin and really not (again IMO) as thick or durable as actual bed liner products.

The only place I used bed liner products on this build were (1) The underside of the fiberglass body, and (2) The tire facing sides of the wheel well splash guards, aka elephant ears. The rest of the exterior facing panels (footboxes, wheel wells, trunk sides, chassis underside, etc.) are powder coated and in my experience this provides plenty of protection and cleans up to look like new. In multiple years of driving, I've never had any damage from rocks, road debris, whatever on the powder coated panels.

GoDadGo

09-14-2017, 08:22 AM

I've used the Upol Raptor bed liner and will be using it on the back of my body.
It is really nice stuff, easy to use, plus is a tintable product.
Could the T-Rex Brand be the same company just marketed under a different name?
Just seems odd to me that Raptor & T-Rex are so close in naming and marketing.
Hummmmmmm?

Mark Eaton

09-16-2017, 11:00 AM

Interesting, they look similar on Amazon. Both are urethane based and come with a spray gun!

Mark Eaton

09-17-2017, 07:15 PM

This past week I received a copy of the IRS instructions (thanks Bob!) plus my first backorder shipment. Still a ways to go, but progress. I now have the first of the three control arms. I already had most of the hardware. But things are starting to take shape a little now. First a recap briefly mentioned in the opening post. The 2015 Mustang IRS setup requires three parts from a 2015 Mustang: The center section (differential), knuckles, and hubs. The rest of the parts are supplied by FF as part of the new IRS setup. You don't need the donor CV joints and have to install them onto new axles as in some earlier versions. FF is supplying the CV axles completed and ready to assemble into the suspension, e.g. with joints, boots, etc. Not long after ordering the kit, FF suggested I may want to start looking for the donor parts. I found complete 2015 Mustang rear suspension pallets at MPS Auto Salvage in Georgia, and picked one up. It's a "zero miles take-off" meaning the newly assembled Mustang went from the factory in Flat Rock, MI to an aftermarket performance assembly line and part of their upgrade is to replace the entire rear IRS assembly. The new IRS setup is beefy, but apparently not up to the task of the 800-900 HP aftermarket engine mods, stickier tires, etc. Although I only need a few parts off the pallet, at the time MPS wasn't selling them separately. Some other places were, but the cost for the individual pieces was higher. So, received the pallet looking like this:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3232_zpstnxjuce6.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3232_zpstnxjuce6.jpg.html)

Removed the parts I needed. I'm hoping to sell the balance and recover some of the cost. In total, should be a pretty good deal. The 3.55 center section case is cast iron, and posi like all new Mustang diffs.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3250_zpswrdk8tzr.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3250_zpswrdk8tzr.jpg.html)

The cast iron center section had some surface rust. Not unexpected. The hubs too had a little surface rust. But the parts appeared to be exactly as advertised. Basically brand new parts. A little wire wheel action and the rust was removed off the cast iron. After thorough cleaning and degreasing, applied some POR15 to the iron and clear Dupli-Color engine spray to the rear aluminum cover. Now ready for installation.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3256_zpsmoqf2oqg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3256_zpsmoqf2oqg.jpg.html)

The knuckles require a piece of one of the arms to be cut off. I saw this in the pictures and write-up, but waited until the instructions were in hand giving the details. The instructions give the location and shows using a Sawzall. I don't own one, plus prefer a little more "civilized" approach. With some blocks clamped to hold the knuckles square, I cut them with a band saw. Took it slow and easy and worked fine. A little scary though, lopping off those pieces.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3312_zpsduagjtnq.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3312_zpsduagjtnq.jpg.html)

Cleaned up the cut using a disk sander, and then filed and sanded a little radius. I went over the complete knuckles and knocked off some of the larger casting parting lines and just cleaned up in general, and then gave them a quick coat of clear Duplic-Color like the center section. Not required at all, but I've had good luck with this stuff and should stay looking clean and nice for a while. I think they're good to go.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3313_zpseggkeiwg.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3313_zpseggkeiwg.jpg.html)

The standard Mustang wheel wheel studs need to be changed to 1/2 x 20, same as the supplied front hubs and matching the lug nuts provided with the FF wheels. The 10 new wheel studs are included with the kit. The instructions show hitting the old ones out with a hammer. I chose instead to use a short piece of black pipe and squeeze them out using my bench vise. Took some muscle, but worked OK. The instructions showed putting the new ones back in with a lug nut, washer and a ratchet. I'm apparently not strong enough because that didn't work for me. Mainly I think because it's impossible to hold the hub while putting that much torque on it. So I rummaged through my junk hardware drawer and found a hardened 1/2 x 20 nut and few hardened washers. Lubed them up good with some assembly lube, and pulled all the studs in with an air impact driver. A press would be ideal to remove and replace the wheel studs, and thought maybe I had an excuse to finally buy one. But no luck. Managed without it. Then cleaned up the exposed parts of the hubs and also applied some POR15 and put them back in the knuckles. Note this is one of many changes with the new IRS parts. The axle bearing is in a bolted in carrier. No longer necessary to press the axle bearings in and out of the aluminum knuckle itself. Also note the little cover and screw in the knuckle just above the hub. This is where the standard ABS sensor is normally mounted. I'm not going to try an ABS installation, so don't need the sensor. But didn't want to leave an open hole directly down into the axle bearings. So made a little cover out of 1/8 inch aluminum and used the sensor mounting screw to hold it in place.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3315_zpsmnvepjug.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Independent%20Rear%20Suspension/IMG_3315_zpsmnvepjug.jpg.html)

I have two questions about painting the rear differential. #1) Did you use the full prep with POR engine degreaser and metal prep before applying the POR 15 paint? and #2) What is the purpose of the clear coat of Dupli color paint? Does it protect the aluminum somehow or just make it look better for car shows?

Thanks so much

Mark

edwardb

09-17-2017, 08:15 PM

I have two questions about painting the rear differential. #1) Did you use the full prep with POR engine degreaser and metal prep before applying the POR 15 paint? and #2) What is the purpose of the clear coat of Dupli color paint? Does it protect the aluminum somehow or just make it look better for car shows?

Thanks so much

Mark

Yes to the first part. I use the POR degreaser and metal prep products before applying POR-15. For the second question, I like to use the Duplicolor clear on aluminum parts like the center section cover, knuckles, etc. when they're new and clean. Then they stay that way. Dirt and grime wipes right off. I wouldn't say it's for car shows or visual in any way because 99% of the time the parts aren't visible with the car on the ground. But I've been known to put the car on the lift and clean the underside. Call it anal, call it whatever. It's not for everyone and I'm not promoting it. Just something I like to do.

Jazzman

12-07-2017, 01:53 AM

Bump - Just because this thread is much too valuable to get lost. This is required reading for first-timers!

JRD56

12-10-2017, 09:17 AM

Edwardb, you probably get tired of hearing how valuable this thread is, but it is. I bought an un-assembled Mk3 and I'm starting the preliminary body work (cut out, minor mods, etc). From reading your thread it appears you previous did an Mk3 so I've got a couple of questions for you if you dont' mind.

The Mk3 has an inner lip on the side vent openings. I cut out the opening and then set the vent (I'm using the FFR vents similar to yours) on the inside and realized the fit was terrible. I saw on your thread that you fit your opening to the vent so everything was parallel. I'm planning to do the same. It appears however the Mk4 does not have the inner lip like the Mk3, it that right? Is there any reason I couldn't grind off the inner lip and enlarge the opening as needed to fit the vent properly?

My second question is regarding the front body mounting. I'm not crazy about using the bolts thru the side of the front vents to mount the body. I'm learning the early Mk4's used the quick jack mounts to essentially "float" the body. Since you've done both the Mk3 & Mk4 is it reasonable to use the Finish Line grommets to mount the front body. Also, I see they have a 3/4" ID but do you know what the OD is. My Mk3 does not have holes yet so I need to cut them.

Thanks in advance for your help.

JD

edwardb

12-10-2017, 01:54 PM

Interesting how this thread keeps popping up. Happy to help if I can.

Yes, the side vents are different between the Mk3 and Mk4. The Mk3 was more of a finished opening with the lip on the inside as you describe. The Mk4 is flat on both sides, and the louver opening just cut in. I don't see any reason why you couldn't flatten the back of the Mk3 and make the opening whatever shape you want. Spend time getting the opening cleaned up, straight, etc. I've seen some that were left pretty rough, including not even painting the exposed inner edge. Doesn't look too great.

For the front mounts, I don't see any reason why you couldn't leave out the bolts in the side of the brake cooling inlet used on the Mk3 and hang the nose on the quick jacks. That's how the Mk4's were initially set up, with split tubes and washers to hang on the quick jacks. I didn't care for that setup, and used only the ********** grommets and 3/4-inch tubes on #7750, and it worked great. Talked about a bunch in this thread: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/302516-mk4-front-bumper-bolts-grommets.html. Factory Five added a bracket sometime after I received #7750 that bolts to the quick jack mounting and is captured by the turn signal/running light bolts. I received those brackets with #8674, but didn't use them for a couple reasons. I'm very satisfied the grommets, properly fitted and installed, along with proper fitting quick jack tubes gives a solid mount. Others in the thread link I provided agree. If you're interested, I'm sure you could buy those brackets from Factory Five. But since they were developed for the Mk4, no guarantee they would fit your Mk3. Sorry I don't have the part numbers.

Two other hints/responses: Since you don't have the quick jack holes in the body, be very careful. The nose is actually held up some, to the point where it floats above the hood 3/4-inch tubes. It's necessary to have it in that position to give the best hood fit plus not have interference with the hood hinges. You also want the holes in the body to fit the grommets precisely. Easy enough to measure when you have them. The hole will be kind of a racetrack shape.

Hope this helps and good luck.

JRD56

12-11-2017, 08:33 PM

Thanks Edward. That was quite a discusion on the other forum. I know just what to now. Got the grommets and tubes on order. Best of luck on your new build, perhaps if I follow along I'll be motivated to do one next.

Jim

Scubasommer

04-02-2018, 10:23 AM

I mentioned the King modified DS and firewall panels. I started mocking them up a bit. Looks like they’re going to work out fine. I’m getting a blank FFMetals DS footbox front and will replace the one pictured here. I’m not going to finalize any of these panels until I have the Coyote on hand, but looks very promising right now. Should have the necessary room up top, and still plenty of room for my feet. This is probably not the exact final position, but looks like I will have similar feet space as my current small block Mk4. Perfect. I will likely also do the King PS footbox expansion. Those pieces are a bit simpler, and similar to the ones I did for my current Mk4. Looks like I'm going to have several panels to get white powder coated like the ones from FF.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3395_zpseagm5rw3.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3395_zpseagm5rw3.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3403_zpsqzvbxgad.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2009192015/IMG_3403_zpsqzvbxgad.jpg.html)

Paul
You mentioned that you used the King foot box expansion kit.....where did you get these (DS & PS)?
I am currently trying to acquire the mod parts for my build that is scheduled for delivery in July.
I am working on my engine now, 1969 351/427, so there should be some engine compartment breathing space to take, at 6’-2” I am trying to gain all the leg and foot box room I can.
Any suggestions you can provide would be deeply appreciated!
Also how far are you from Northwest Indiana?

Thank you great job on your build threads, gives us newbie a sense of direction!
Jimmy

edwardb

04-02-2018, 10:56 AM

Paul
You mentioned that you used the King foot box expansion kit.....where did you get these (DS & PS)?
I am currently trying to acquire the mod parts for my build that is scheduled for delivery in July.
I am working on my engine now, 1969 351/427, so there should be some engine compartment breathing space to take, at 6’-2” I am trying to gain all the leg and foot box room I can.
Any suggestions you can provide would be deeply appreciated!
Also how far are you from Northwest Indiana?

Thank you great job on your build threads, gives us newbie a sense of direction!
Jimmy

The timing of #8674 (delivered August 2015) was before Factory Five had a decent solution for wide engines like the Coyote. The sheet metal provided with my kit allowed the Coyote to fit, but took a huge chunk out of the DS footbox. King designed footbox mods to fit the Coyote and still have the same pedal space as before, which I jumped on. Nobody actually ever sold them. There was a group buy of fabbed parts back then, which is where mine came from. What Factory Five is delivering now, and what you should get with your kit, has revised sheet metal (suspiciously like King's... :rolleyes:) so I don't think you need to do anything. Plus Factory Five has added a small bump-out on the outside of the driver's side footbox to give even more room. It's not much, but every bit helps. With the sheet metal you'll receive, there are little tucks and mods you can make to gain a little more in places. But none that require replacing whole panels. You can find these on the forum, and decide if they're worth the effort. Just remember, every bit you gain on the inside you lose on the outside. With your planned engine, it gets real tight on the driver's side. Especially the back two plugs.

King did have a mod for the passenger side. But I chose not to do that. It gained an inch or so in width and depth. But just decided it wasn't worth the effort. I did do a similar passenger side mod on #7750 (the build before this one) and while it was nice, always felt like it was a lot of work for what was really gained. I had my wife test the standard sheet metal in this build, and she was fine with it.

We're 4-5 hours from NW Indiana. We have family in the Crown Point and Cedar Lake area. So get over that way occasionally. You're welcome to drop over to sunny Michigan. Just give me a shout.

Scubasommer

04-02-2018, 06:36 PM

The timing of #8674 (delivered August 2015) was before Factory Five had a decent solution for wide engines like the Coyote. The sheet metal provided with my kit allowed the Coyote to fit, but took a huge chunk out of the DS footbox. King designed footbox mods to fit the Coyote and still have the same pedal space as before, which I jumped on. Nobody actually every sold them. There was a group buy of fabbed parts back then, which is where mine came from. What Factory Five is delivering now, and what you should get with your kit, has revised sheet metal (suspiciously like King's... :rolleyes:) so I don't think you need to do anything. Plus Factory Five has added a small bump-out on the outside of the driver's side footbox to give even more room. It's not much, but every bit helps. With the sheet metal you'll receive, there are little tucks and mods you can make to gain a little more in places. But none that require replacing whole panels. You can find these on the forum, and decide if they're worth the effort. Just remember, every bit you gain on the inside you lose on the outside. With your planned engine, it gets real tight on the driver's side. Especially the back two plugs.

King did have a mod for the passenger side. But I chose not to do that. It gained an inch or so in width and depth. But just decided it wasn't worth the effort. I did do a similar passenger side mod on #7750 (the build before this one) and while it was nice, always felt like it was a lot of work for what was really gained. I had my wife test the standard sheet metal in this build, and she was fine with it.

We're 4-5 hours from NW Indiana. We have family in the Crown Point and Cedar Lake area. So get over that way occasionally. You're welcome to drop over to sunny Michigan. Just give me a shout.

Thank you my friend!

shark92651

05-23-2018, 11:09 AM

Did a couple other things. Mounted the CNC brake and clutch reservoirs. Made up another bracket to mount it from the underside of the tube. It’s tight in this area, but the location clears everything. May look a little high to some, but I carefully measured (several times) the available space in the finished Mk4, and the caps clear the hood by about 1/4 inch. Tight, but should be OK.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3630_zpsi9l3ph2w.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3630_zpsi9l3ph2w.jpg.html)

Paul I bought a large piece of aluminum angle that I plan to use to make a bracket to mount my triple reservoir, similar to what you did. How high can I mount the reservoirs and still clear the body and hood? Should the top of the caps be even with the top of the frame rail there, or can they go up a bit higher? What's your advice? Also, should I get it as close to the front of the DS foot box as possible?

edwardb

05-23-2018, 04:31 PM

Paul I bought a large piece of aluminum angle that I plan to use to make a bracket to mount my triple reservoir, similar to what you did. How high can I mount the reservoirs and still clear the body and hood? Should the top of the caps be even with the top of the frame rail there, or can they go up a bit higher? What's your advice? Also, should I get it as close to the front of the DS foot box as possible?

This picture was actually early in my build and I later lowered the reservoirs from what is pictured here. These cleared, but basically with zero clearance to the hood. No reason to cut it that close. The final dimension is the top of the reservoir body 1/2-inch below the top of the 3/4-inch rails. Or said another way, the top of the caps 1/4-inch above the top of the rail. That provides adequate clearance.

For the front to back, you need to be inside 11 inches from the front of the footbox to the outside of the front reservoir. That will prevent interference with the hood gas strut. As pictured here, they're 9-1/4 inches. So pretty close to the footbox as you mentioned. For a Coyote build, the hood gas strut isn't the first point of interference. Further forward the reservoirs could interfere with the PCV connection (in the picture) and even the coil covers. I'd recommend the 9-1/4 location (or closer if you like) with a Coyote.

Cool this build thread is still getting traffic and questions. It's now in it's second driving season, and after a slow start this year with a winter that wouldn't die, finally getting out in earnest. Had an awesome cruise today on a beautiful sunny 72 degree Michigan day. Turned 2,000 miles in the process. Every time I drive it I'm so impressed. What a machine this thing is.
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/burning%20rubber_zpsurneon46.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/burning%20rubber_zpsurneon46.jpg.html)

cv2065

05-23-2018, 04:48 PM

Cool this build thread is still getting traffic and questions. It's now in it's second driving season, and after a slow start this year with a winter that wouldn't die, finally getting out in earnest. Had an awesome cruise today on a beautiful sunny 72 degree Michigan day. Turned 2,000 miles in the process. Every time I drive it I'm so impressed. What a machine this thing is.

Really great build thread. I've spent an hour or so each night for the last week making notes off of your posts and pictures, and am only on page 9. From e-brake pulleys to Volara sculpting foam for the dash, I'm getting it all! I'm sure it took a lot of extra time to post all of this info and pics so again, much appreciated.

And of course, thanks to everyone else for posting theirs as well. I've been hopscotching around the site pulling from just about everyone. I'll try and return the favor to the forum when I start my build.

uggb123

06-11-2018, 11:01 PM

I know I am very late to reply to this topic but I am building #9279 and while I am excited about the prospect of "built not bought" I recognized my limitations both in skill and time frame so I elected to have my engine built by a professional local to me in Charlotte. Long story short, he was very high on the fuel pump hangar that you referenced here and I bought it along with the fuel pump from him and I will be installing it in my tank next week. I am not doing a Coyote build but rather a 351W convert to a 427.

He even showed me the video you referenced which I agree is pretty compelling.

While I am at it, I wanted to add my thanks to you on top of the others for your very detailed build threads. I enjoy reading them and I find that I reference them often especially where the FFR manual is often lacking the details you need when you are not an experienced builder.
Glenn

BadAsp427

08-25-2018, 12:48 PM

The second issue was with the Koni 2812 double-adjustable aluminum body coil-over shocks. The manual says to install the standard Koni front shocks body UP. But the Koni instructions for these shocks quite emphatically says they are to be installed body DOWN. Something about the special valving in this shock type only functions correctly when installed down. And Factory Five does have them installed body down in their 20th Anniversary Roadster. So that's what I did. But I then realized the body interfered slightly with the LCA. In fact, if you look closely at the pics FF has on their website of their 20th Anniversary Roadster, you can see divots in the shock body from the interference. I decided not to duplicate this feature. Using a cut-off wheel and then a small air belt sander, I removed the interference from the two sides and back and confirmed clearance with the shock at full extension and compression. It's not a lot, so I'm confident the strength of the LCA is not affected. Here are three pics. Before, after trimming, and then with the shock back in place. Before assembling, I touched up the bare metal with gloss black POR15, which matches the black PC perfectly.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3297_zpsc1pmekpw.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3297_zpsc1pmekpw.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3300_zpst37gec7g.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3300_zpst37gec7g.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3302_zpssmmxiiaq.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Front%20Suspension/IMG_3302_zpssmmxiiaq.jpg.html)

AWESOME INFORMATION AND VERY IMPORTANT: Great Catch! So this could actually be a big deal... I just test fit my shocks and because of the binding that you indicate here, I only have about half of my upward travel and it is complete lock up and it can not go any further. Under loads, I'm positive this would/could cause major handling issues. I'm modifying my lower control arm shock mounts now.

edwardb

08-25-2018, 02:49 PM

AWESOME INFORMATION AND VERY IMPORTANT: Great Catch! So this could actually be a big deal... I just test fit my shocks and because of the binding that you indicate here, I only have about half of my upward travel and it is complete lock up and it can not go any further. Under loads, I'm positive this would/could cause major handling issues. I'm modifying my lower control arm shock mounts now.

I don't know the exact timing, but at some point this was addressed by FFR and fixed. The LCA's on my Gen 3 Coupe build, delivered 8+ months ago with the exact dual action Koni's, don't interfere. The profile at the attachment points looks similar to this modification I did on the LCA's received with the 20th anniversary Roadster in 2015.

Vspeeds

10-01-2018, 12:53 AM

edwardb

10-01-2018, 06:19 AM

edwardb

Your dashboard...and build for that matter looks awesome. How did you cut out the holes for the dashboard? And what size are they?

And thank you for sharing your builds. I am referring to your threads a lot for my build.

Thanks for the comments. Glad this build thread continues to give back. :) I cut the large dash holes with an adjustable hole saw, like this one. https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-55-Cutter-Adjustable/dp/B00004T7P1. I use it in a drill press set at low speed, with a wood backer, and a little cutting lube. Works really well. Some guys use them with a handheld drill. I guess, but not my preference. Be really careful if you do that. Especially right when the cutter breaks through. That's when it can get a little crazy. The sizes are set for each hole. I measure the diameter of the gauge and the thickness of the covering material. Set the hole cutter on the small side of thickness plus the gauge radius. Makes a nice snug fit.

The smaller holes, like switches, indicators, etc. are mostly cut with step drills. Then adjusted if needed with hand files, small sanding drum, Dremel, whatever. The size is determined by what goes into the hole and whether the covering will be pulled through or not. I pull covering through and glue to the back with pie cuts whenever I can. But sometimes it's not possible. Mainly when the threads of the part can't handle the added thickness.

BadAsp427

10-01-2018, 05:49 PM

My first idea was to add the Lokar cable clevis behind the FF provided rod ends where the cables attach to the e-brake handle. But then I realized with a little modification, the Lokar cable clevis could be used by itself. Simple and neat. This is the stock Lokar part. I think it’s used with most/all of their e-brake handle assemblies;

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3807_zpsc7xm5cse.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3807_zpsc7xm5cse.jpg.html)

After some careful layout, trimmed it down and drilled some new holes. Now looks like this:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3808_zpsiaxoly24.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3808_zpsiaxoly24.jpg.html)

Paul,
Was going to send this in a PM and then thought that others may learn from your reply as well.
I'm completing a near mirror image mod on my e-brake cable. Why did you modify the Lokar clevis? I just test fit everything and can not see the logic that you had in making the small modification to the Lokar. I'm just trying to see what I'm missing so that the master can teach the young grasshopper...

edwardb

10-01-2018, 07:14 PM

Paul,
Was going to send this in a PM and then thought that others may learn from your reply as well.
I'm completing a near mirror image mod on my e-brake cable. Why did you modify the Lokar clevis? I just test fit everything and can not see the logic that you had in making the small modification to the Lokar. I'm just trying to see what I'm missing so that the master can teach the young grasshopper...

I'll pass on the master / grasshopper reference :rolleyes: but here was my thinking on the Lokar mod. The pulley setup really works well and with two years on the road with #8674 I haven't touched it and still works perfectly. And I use the e-brake a lot. But the one issue with the mod is the clevis drags across the head of the rear carriage bolt holding the handle assembly to the frame. Shortening the clevis and also lowering the pivot point (you can see that if you look closely) is my attempt to minimize that drag. I've seen some builders do this e-brake pulley mod and use the Lokar clevis unmodified and seems to work OK. So you can decide how you want to approach it. One thing you'll find, and I've mentioned it before, is the Wilwood brakes used on the 20th Anniversary Roadster (and now available as an optional upgrade) use a separate e-brake caliper that requires very little actual cable movement. Basically, just tightening the cable actuates the e-brake. So there isn't a lot of actual movement across that bolt. One other thing, I'm assuming you saw in a later post, based on a suggestion, I added a second pulley so each cable has its own. Probably would work OK with one, but I'd recommend two.

BadAsp427

10-01-2018, 08:21 PM

I'll pass on the master / grasshopper reference :rolleyes: but here was my thinking on the Lokar mod. The pulley setup really works well and with two years on the road with #8674 I haven't touched it and still works perfectly. And I use the e-brake a lot. But the one issue with the mod is the clevis drags across the head of the rear carriage bolt holding the handle assembly to the frame. Shortening the clevis and also lowering the pivot point (you can see that if you look closely) is my attempt to minimize that drag. I've seen some builders do this e-brake pulley mod and use the Lokar clevis unmodified and seems to work OK. So you can decide how you want to approach it. One thing you'll find, and I've mentioned it before, is the Wilwood brakes used on the 20th Anniversary Roadster (and now available as an optional upgrade) use a separate e-brake caliper that requires very little actual cable movement. Basically, just tightening the cable actuates the e-brake. So there isn't a lot of actual movement across that bolt. One other thing, I'm assuming you saw in a later post, based on a suggestion, I added a second pulley so each cable has its own. Probably would work OK with one, but I'd recommend two.

94539
Yes, I have the double roller set up... Thanks for the reply. I'm going to get back on it tomorrow and finish it up... It actually looks like if I do not cut the clevis, then the thread area of the adjuster will actually pass over the bolt head and might not even touch it. Either way, I'll get is all figured out and I very much thank you for your reply. For a little pep me up, I just watched all your first start and first go cart drive videos for #8674....

This week is focused on getting everything taped off and ready for Lizard Skin Sound and Heat coatings this weekend... Oh Boy!!!

Vspeeds

10-02-2018, 07:57 PM

Edwardb
Thanks for the info on the dashboard holes. I was looking at that same tool as the hole saw bits just arent the right size. Ill pick up that type tool and make some practice holes on scrap aluminum to get the right size set up.

edwardb

10-02-2018, 08:25 PM

I'm going to get back on it tomorrow and finish it up... It actually looks like if I do not cut the clevis, then the thread area of the adjuster will actually pass over the bolt head and might not even touch it. Either way, I'll get is all figured out and I very much thank you for your reply.

The issue I was concerned with wasn't the threaded adjuster hitting the carriage bolt. It was the block where the cables are clamped. Plus I wanted the block to stay on the head of the bolt throughout its travel, and not get hung up on either side. The other issue, after I refreshed my memory and reviewed the pictures, is the full length clevis comes close to the back edge of the frame mounting. Shortening the clevis, and raising the attachment hole, was my attempt to mitigate all of the above. As seen in the early picture (e.g. unpainted, single roller) below. I also polished the marks off the head of the carriage bolt and added a little lube there. The clevis slides over it pretty easily. Your layout may be different and certainly there are multiple ways to address this. But that is the full story for why I modified the clevis.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3813_zpsgrquqogr.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/E-Brake/IMG_3813_zpsgrquqogr.jpg.html)

Edwardb
Thanks for the info on the dashboard holes. I was looking at that same tool as the hole saw bits just arent the right size. Ill pick up that type tool and make some practice holes on scrap aluminum to get the right size set up.

Cool. I think you'll like how that cutter works. Practice is always good.

Texas Driver

12-30-2018, 12:24 PM

Finally, before moving onto the main event, I installed couplers for the rear bumpers. Now is the time before any sheet metal or tank mounting. For new builders, the stock setup, especially now with the Mk4 where everything back there is really tight, the tank must be dropped to install/remove the rear bumpers or quick jacks, whatever you install. With the couplers, no longer necessary to drop the tank. I happen to like 7/16-20, because that's the threaded rod and hardware I use. Any similar size is good. Just one very small hint though. Pay attention to where you bolt these down. The holes in the frame are pretty large. Measure the vertical and horizontal locations, compared to the holes in the body and the bumper if you're going to use one. If you stack all the tolerances one direction, it's possible to be off 1/8 inch (or more) and complicates final assembly when that time comes. Ask me how I know…

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008282015/IMG_3360_zpsn0kisl6g.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2008282015/IMG_3360_zpsn0kisl6g.jpg.html)

How long are the Couplers? Great idea to be ale to access the body without having to drop the tank and such. In the middle of inventorying my boxes with my wife, SSOOO ready to start building.
Thanks

edwardb

12-30-2018, 02:20 PM

Papa

12-30-2018, 05:49 PM

Thanks for the comments. Glad this build thread continues to give back. :) I cut the large dash holes with an adjustable hole saw, like this one. https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-55-Cutter-Adjustable/dp/B00004T7P1. I use it in a drill press set at low speed, with a wood backer, and a little cutting lube. Works really well. Some guys use them with a handheld drill. I guess, but not my preference. Be really careful if you do that. Especially right when the cutter breaks through. That's when it can get a little crazy. The sizes are set for each hole. I measure the diameter of the gauge and the thickness of the covering material. Set the hole cutter on the small side of thickness plus the gauge radius. Makes a nice snug fit.

The smaller holes, like switches, indicators, etc. are mostly cut with step drills. Then adjusted if needed with hand files, small sanding drum, Dremel, whatever. The size is determined by what goes into the hole and whether the covering will be pulled through or not. I pull covering through and glue to the back with pie cuts whenever I can. But sometimes it's not possible. Mainly when the threads of the part can't handle the added thickness.

Paul,

That adjustable hole cutter is awesome! I'm getting one of those just because.

Dave

Scubasommer

02-11-2019, 04:59 PM

Driver’s side footbox. Again, nothing too exciting. I’m going to do a removable trans tunnel cover. Lots of discussion about whether this is really necessary, and I’ve never done one before or found it necessary. But I’m planning to cover it with something other than carpet. So it just makes sense to go ahead and make it removable. As a result, I drilled for rivets along the top edge. They’ll be flush mounts so the cover can slide past them.

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001212016/IMG_3791_zpsxngiv0h0.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Update%2001212016/IMG_3791_zpsxngiv0h0.jpg.html)

Paul
I am knee deep in fitting panels and noticed that you drilled the top of the floor pans at the trans tunnel. In your post you say that you are doing a removable trans tunnel cover, I will be doing this as well. You also state that you will be using flush mount rivets in that area. Did this work out for you and meet your high standards my friend? Also where did you get the flush mount rivets?

Thanks and have a great day
Jimmy

edwardb

02-11-2019, 09:55 PM

Paul -- I am knee deep in fitting panels and noticed that you drilled the top of the floor pans at the trans tunnel. In your post you say that you are doing a removable trans tunnel cover, I will be doing this as well. You also state that you will be using flush mount rivets in that area. Did this work out for you and meet your high standards my friend? Also where did you get the flush mount rivets?

Thanks and have a great day
Jimmy

Flush rivets worked great there. Not having the head of the rivet above the surface allows the trans cover to fit nicely. I used these from McMaster: https://www.mcmaster.com/97530a097. In addition to the usual drilled rivet holes, a small countersink is also required to let them set flush. These wide range style rivets are nice as well.

Thanks for the compliment and you're welcome. :cool:

bluse

02-12-2019, 11:34 AM

Paul, In your post #460 you referenced hi temp silicone on the header bolts, is this the product you used this?
Permatex 81160 ?
Thanks
Randy

edwardb

02-12-2019, 12:42 PM

Paul, In your post #460 you referenced hi temp silicone on the header bolts, is this the product you used this?
Permatex 81160 ?
Thanks
Randy

That material might work. But what I actually use is Permatex 81878 Utra Copper. Also use it on the header to pipe connection instead of gaskets. Some use it on the actual exhaust header joint. But there I've stuck with Remflex gaskets.

bluse

02-12-2019, 05:09 PM

That material might work. But what I actually use is Permatex 81878 Utra Copper. Also use it on the header to pipe connection instead of gaskets. Some use it on the actual exhaust header joint. But there I've stuck with Remflex gaskets.

Thank you sir, placed the order for both the Permatex and Remflex gaskets today.

JoeAIII

03-03-2019, 07:42 PM

Paul, were you at autorama this weekend?
A friend of mine still in detroit posted a picture today that looked an awful lot like 8674

edwardb

03-03-2019, 11:05 PM

Paul, were you at autorama this weekend?
A friend of mine still in detroit posted a picture today that looked an awful lot like 8674

Maybe... Ok, yes I was there. A couple weeks ago Ford Performance asked if they could show my car in their display next to their Coyote crate engine display. I went for it. Just home a little bit ago. Turns out they displayed a '33 Hot Rod next to mine. It's the build they did along with Factory Five a couple years ago with an Ecotec engine. Spent most of the weekend there. Pretty big crowds and talked to a lot of folks. Enjoy doing that. Note to Jeff K: Look away. There may have been some wax used in preparation for the show. :p

https://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2019%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1209_zpsukqin6bu.jpg (https://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2019%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1209_zpsukqin6bu.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2019%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1187_zps2jca5wcw.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2019%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1187_zps2jca5wcw.jpg.html)

Jeff Kleiner

03-04-2019, 09:42 AM

edwardb

03-04-2019, 11:10 AM

Looks lovely as always Paul! Hey I don't mind the wax---every one I paint gets sent home with a bottle of polish for the owner---it just doesn't have a place on my old heap ;) Speaking of wax, have you ever tried any of the Adams products? Tony Z is a big fan and introduced me to their stuff and their guys at SEMA...the products are amazing and I'm now a believer!

Jeff

Just pulling your chain Jeff. I've used Zaino products over the years, and have always been happy with them. As it turns out though, a lot of discussion lately about ceramic finishes. I wasn't ready to pony up the bucks for a pro job. But Adams released a DIY ceramic application that I ordered and applied a couple weeks before the show and pictures above. So you're seeing an Adams finish here. Plus was using their detail spray and cloths throughout the show. Cars get dusty in just a few hours in those big halls. Can't say that I think the Adams ceramic looks that different than a freshly applied Zaino finish, but it was pretty easy to put on and we'll see how it lasts. I've tried several Adams products now and I agree it's good stuff. Pricey, but then most of the boutique car detailing products including Zaino are too.

wareaglescott

03-04-2019, 12:40 PM

Another Adams user here. Good stuff!

JoeAIII

03-09-2019, 10:05 AM

Saw the article last night, car looked great.
We grew up in the detroit 'burbs, so I have fond memories of autorama. We are considering a few trips up for things like woodward and autorama when ours is done (one of these years)
That reminds me, I need to go work on the car!

GoDadGo

03-09-2019, 10:20 AM

Why Am I Not Suprised!

Expert Builder; Most Definitely Yes If Ford Invites You To Display Your Car At Their Both!

Great Job From This Chevy Fan, Great Job!

Congratulations!

edwardb

06-16-2019, 08:28 PM

Now in its third driving season, #8674 20th Anniversary Roadster is just about to turn 5,000 miles. Maybe even next week at the London show. Thought I would give a report of the journey since graduation.

To recap, #8674 was ordered from a New York Thruway rest stop on the way to the 2015 Factory Five open house in Wareham. That was the day they were released for sale, and mine is number three of twenty. We were back in Wareham in August 2015 to pick it up. It was completed just in time for the 2017 Detroit Autorama, was legal a couple months later, and back in Wareham again for the 2017 Open House. Couple weeks later made its first trip to London and did some charity rides with only a few hundred miles on the odometer. Since then, we’ve driven it as much as our Michigan weather allows. Another London show. Detroit Autorama again only this time in the Ford Performance display. Made it to the Texas Spring Cruise earlier this year and back to London for the third time next week. In between, countless shows, cruise-ins, our local Woodward Dream Cruise, and multiple events and cruises with our local Great Lakes Cobra Club. I enjoy meeting people and sharing the car and experience, giving rides, plus won some awards along the way. A couple weeks ago we had a private event at the Ford proving grounds in Romeo, Michigan. Something that not many get to do. Was in a group of 30+ similar cars doing triple digits around their 5-mile banked high speed oval track. Now that was a gas. Just solid fun and great times with the car and great friends. It draws attention wherever it goes, even when parked with much more expensive and exotic cars, of which there are plenty around here in SE Michigan.

Along the way, the car has been almost perfect. The Gen 2 Coyote crate motor is simply awesome, and thanks once again to those who talked me into it. Mostly Ron Everitt at the 2015 London show. The Coyote ran the stock Ford Performance tune for the first 1,000 miles or so. Then after hearing numerous positive reports, worked with Lund Racing for a custom tune. Made a great running engine even better. I had one ride of shame home on a flat bed, which in hindsight was mostly my fault. I didn’t re-tighten the hose clamps on the intake after the initial installation. On the way to a Saturday morning cars and coffee, the intake separated between the MAF sensor and the throttle body. Just won’t run that way, and I managed to not notice it until it was back home in my garage. Couple lessons learned there. Everything about the car for me is perfect. The Coyote of course, the hydraulic clutch, the Liberty Transmission TKO600, the KRC power steering, the big Wilwood brakes, the new (at the time) 2015+ Mustang based IRS. It’s easy to drive, and as I tell everyone, is as mild or wild as you want. It’s 99.9% a street driver, and I admit I’m a conservative driver. Partly out of being realistic about my driving skills, respect for the car, plus there’s a county sheriff substation just around the corner from where I live. I almost never go out driving without multiple LEO sightings. So I keep it legal and I’m fine with that. There is literally never a time that I climb in and drive down the street without a smile on my face and feeling blessed to own such a fun machine. Many of the miles are with my bride in the passenger seat. She’s a great sport about it and enjoys riding and the social aspect of our friends and club members. But she won’t drive it. Both of my sons have had some driving time. They’re both out of state, so doesn’t happen often. But rich times when it does. The three of us are the only ones that have driven it, and will probably stay that way.

Couple late breaking updates. While researching and installing the Gen 3 Coyote in my Gen 3 Coupe build, I found multiple references and recommendations for using a honeycomb airflow straightener in the cold air intake before the MAF sensor. Supposed to improve MAF readings improving idle, throttle response, etc. I ended up installing one in my Coupe build. Since it’s not on the road yet, no verdict on the results. But decided to try one on this build to see if any difference. I bought a 3.5-inch straightener, part number ACCH35, from Treadstone Performance. http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=103828&prodname=HoneyComb+MAF+Mass+Air+Meter+Airflow+Stra ightener. Was an easy installation in the air filter side of the Spectre MAF filter adapter. I made a cardboard template of the intake diameter, stuck to the honeycomb straightener with double back tape, and carefully sanded to the correct diameter on my stationery disk sander. Didn’t need much and with new 80 grit paper, cut easily. I put a very light coat of JB Weld plastic bonder around the inside of the intake and pushed into place. The tube is slightly tapered, so wedged in nicely. Looks like this.

https://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_1384_zpsju609lnh.jpg (https://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_1384_zpsju609lnh.jpg.html)

https://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_1385_zpsjafyiujv.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_1385_zpsjafyiujv.jpg.html)

I’ve only driven the car 20 miles or so since the installation. Don’t know if it’s my imagination but does seem to run even better. Idle seems nice. In the past, every once in a while, I feel just the slightest hesitation under acceleration. It’s really minor, and I’ve logged and had Lund look at it. They don’t see anything and say everything looks perfect. Like I said, really minor and barely perceptable. I didn’t notice it at all during my initial drive after installing the straightener. Will be interesting to keep monitoring.

Last thing. Between parking it in the garage last Monday afternoon, and climbing in for a drive Tuesday night, I found I’d joined the broken windshield club. Ugh.

https://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_1383_zpss8gri2kz.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Misc%20Pics/IMG_1383_zpss8gri2kz.jpg.html)

Feel like I installed the windshield properly. Shimmed for no stress. Don’t ever hang on it. Nothing. But three years later while sitting in a cool garage it broke. I guess this story has been repeated a lot. My first thought was to go with the Fast Freddie Lexan windshield. Michigan is one and done for inspection, so no issues there. His website says temporarily out of stock. Contacted him and was told (1) no ETA for more, (2) probably not going to offer it anymore. Also see his asking price is up to $600. So looked for other options. Many suggest getting a Lexan sheet and cutting your own. Found multiple recommendations for the Optic Armor brand. Probably the same thing as available through plastics suppliers. But available in the right rough size, plus through Summit Racing so only a $9.99 shipping premium. But wouldn’t be here for a couple weeks and really want this fixed for London next week. So decided to call Factory Five. Have a replacement glass on the way and should have fixed in the next couple days. If it breaks again, the next one will be Lexan.

That's it. Back to driving and hope the next 5,000 is as fun as the first. Hope to see many of you in London next week.

RickP

06-16-2019, 09:00 PM

Sorry to hear about your windshield Paul. You will get it fixed in no time.

I hope to meet you at LCS. I’m just coming for the day to see what the big hullabaloo is all about.

RickP

Kool AC

06-17-2019, 06:39 AM

Hey Paul, thanks for the update. Glad to hear all is well with the car, (except for the windshield), and you are enjoying it. Good to know as my build is almost a shameless copy of your own. Sounds like you had a great time at the Ford proving grounds, I know exactly where that is. I am just down the road from the Ford Romeo engine plant. Unfortunately not a lot of good driving days so far this year in SE Michigan, where the heck is all this rain coming from? Anyway, hope you have many, many more great miles with the car. Will be looking for the first drive report on the coupe.

zilverx

07-01-2019, 12:41 PM

edwardb

07-01-2019, 02:13 PM

Question: In post #118, the first photo showing the back of the dash the dash supports appear to have the sides bent up in an "L", which I assume is for strength. My support pieces are flat, except for the turn down where they mount to the 2 inch frame tube. How were you able to make those bends? I have a metal brake, but can't figure out how to form the edges without ruining the frame attachment section. Thanks as always for your input.

I have the very inexpensive and basic Harbor Freight 30-inch brake. Used it to make those pieces. Yes, the "L" on the edges is for strength plus just looks more finished. The way I do that is first have an oversize piece, at least an inch or more past the intended "L" bend. That provides enough material to make the bends on the HF brake. Then I trim the excess material off to leave just the "L showing in the pictures. Hopefully that makes sense. Then use a block of wood or scrap piece of metal, whatever, that fits between the bent up "L" profile and put the other slight bends in using the brake. Someday maybe I'll get a real box brake. Have looked at Woodward Fab among others. But right now make do with the simple one.

Vspeeds

07-01-2019, 11:34 PM

Paul
I’d like to thank you for sharing your builds in great detail. I’ve referenced your builds numerous times which made my build easier. I really appreciate your contributions.
Eddie

bobm488

08-12-2019, 11:19 PM

Those couplers are part number 90977A190 from McMaster. Grade 5, 7/16"-20 Thread Size, 1-3/4" long. https://www.mcmaster.com/90977A190. I used them because my other on-hand hardware (threaded rod, lock nuts, etc.) was also fine pitch 7/16"-20. Similar couplers are typically available at your local hardware in 7/16"-14 threads. Also usually about 1-3/4" long and would work fine. The length isn't critical though.112262
Did you add a spacer to make up the difference between the couple and the body. And I assume the upper one has to be re-installed when the trunk floor is permanently installed. I attached a picture of what I think is proper.

edwardb

08-13-2019, 06:09 AM

112262
Did you add a spacer to make up the difference between the couple and the body. And I assume the upper one has to be re-installed when the trunk floor is permanently installed. I attached a picture of what I think is proper.

No, I wouldn't recommend using a spacer like that. Better to use a nut and washer on the inside so you can adjust the body position for the best trunk lid fit. In other words, when you push the threaded rod piece through the body, put on a washer and then a nut before threading into the coupler. Thread the coupler in, and then sandwich the body between the nut and washer on the inside and whatever hardware you're using on the outside to hold the quick jacks and/or bumper and overriders. There will be a small section of the threaded rod left exposed. Doesn't hurt anything. But I put a piece of electrical conduit over it and looks fine. Hope that all makes sense.

As far as the trunk floor, no I don't remove the couplers during assembly. I install all four couplers on the bare chassis and leave them there. I drill the holes the trunk floor piece a bit bigger so the aluminum slides over them.

Aircontroller

10-02-2019, 03:22 PM

Hola Edwardb, what specific type of red is that? It’s beautiful! Thanks!

We completed move-in yesterday, and today have everything set and polished. Show doesn't officially open for another hour, but there are a bunch of people here already. My location on the show floor is "OK" but not as good as the past. I have a vendor display on each side of me. But we're here and ready for three days, and I enjoy it a lot. With no commentary, here are a bunch of pictures. The floor is the Race Deck out of my old garage that I haven't had a chance to install in the new house yet. Worked out well and I didn't have to rent carpet. The stanchions are from a fellow Great Lakes Cobra Club member, who made them up a couple years ago for his display. The bases are disk rotors, the posts are cams from a Terminator (not Coyote, but I'll make due...) and the tops he had made. Very cool and fitting for the display. Enjoy!

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1172_zpsqchhj43d.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1172_zpsqchhj43d.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1173_zpsarzadqql.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1173_zpsarzadqql.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1174_zps6tkgcatf.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1174_zps6tkgcatf.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1175_zps9ezhjt4u.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1175_zps9ezhjt4u.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1176_zpswli4kgbp.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1176_zpswli4kgbp.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1177_zpszb9azd0j.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1177_zpszb9azd0j.jpg.html)

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1178_zps6b1qh3yx.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/2017%20Detroit%20Autorama/IMG_1178_zps6b1qh3yx.jpg.html)

edwardb

10-02-2019, 04:45 PM

Hola Edwardb, what specific type of red is that? It’s beautiful! Thanks!

Agreed, it's a great color. It's very rare when people are looking at the car that they don't comment about the color. In a good way. It's actually a bit more "red" in sunlight versus the indoor lighting at Cobo Center Detroit where those pics were taken. Officially, it's Ford Red Candy 2, code RZ. A tri-coat.

Jim1855

10-02-2019, 05:48 PM

Hey, I've seen that car before, same spot too.

Doesn't look as good there as out in the wild though. Sounds and rides great too. Truly stunning!

Jim

PrestonT23

10-11-2019, 08:17 PM

Just got through this thread, thanks so much for posting all this helpful information for us new builders! Your build came out beautifully!

rezell3d

11-11-2019, 07:05 PM

Hey Paul,

Question for you. How do you like the 18" rims and tires compared to the 17"s on your #7750? Is the ride a lot rougher on the 18"s?

Thanks,

Rod

edwardb

11-11-2019, 08:05 PM

Hey Paul,

Question for you. How do you like the 18" rims and tires compared to the 17"s on your #7750? Is the ride a lot rougher on the 18"s?

Thanks,

Rod

Hi Rod. I'm very happy with the 18" wheels and tires. But the two cars are quite different. #7750 was a solid axle build (Levy 5-link) with the standard red Koni shocks. This build is IRS with the silver double adjustable Koni shocks. I find this car rides quite a bit better than #7750. What I would expect comparing solid axle to IRS. According to FF, the double adjustable shocks are slightly more compliant than the red Koni's, so that contributes as well. Would this ride be even better with 17" wheels and tires? Don't know, but it's really good just the way it is. Everyone that rides in it, and I've given lots of rides, are surprised (in a good way) about how it rides. I don't have any concerns recommending the 18's. Chose them again for my Coupe build. That's about all I can offer. Hope it helps.

Papa

11-11-2019, 08:22 PM

Hey Paul,

Question for you. How do you like the 18" rims and tires compared to the 17"s on your #7750? Is the ride a lot rougher on the 18"s?

Thanks,

Rod

Rod,

I just switched from 17" to 18" wheels on my MK4 and although I haven't gotten my car on the open road, the ride doesn't feel any different with the couple of trips around the block (about 4 miles) that I've made so far.

Dave

Megascott

12-25-2019, 10:24 PM

Merry Christmas from Scott in Thailand.

Congrats on 5000 miles!

Just a few words of Thanks for a greatly informative write up and build. I don't think a day goes by that during my MkIV SBF build that I have not referenced the very thorough build up of your 20th anniversary Roadster. Even though I do have experience building other replicas and race cars, there's always those head scratchers, but I always find that referencing your build is the best affirmation of how to do it right. Much Thanks and Happy 2020!

jiriza84641

02-26-2020, 06:30 PM

Thanks for the generous comment. I'm anxious to see and drive the final product as well. But I also enjoy the build process.

The MaxJax? It's exactly what it is. A relatively basic DIY quality lift. I wouldn't compare it directly to a more professional version, but then it's much cheaper and fits better into my 2-car garage. It's perfect for the low ceiling garage I have. I can't go any higher than this will go. My only complaint is the two posts don't always stay perfectly synchronized. But it's not a big issue and completely workable. The difference in working on the build on a lift vs. the usual jack stands and crawling on the ground is night and day.

He does have skills, he is welcome to drive to Chicago, and spend the weekend to help with my build when it arrives aft the 11 April completion. Ill have cold ones and pizza.

edwardb

04-21-2020, 08:33 PM

1. Build plan plus pickup (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardB%92s-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build)

2. Front suspension (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=208643&viewfull=1#post208643)

3. IRS update and donor (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=209141&viewfull=1#post209141)

4. Clutch pedal interference and center section installation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=209899&viewfull=1#post209899)

5. Front suspension completed, sway bar, radiator shroud (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=212203&viewfull=1#post212203)

6. Fuel tank (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=212968&viewfull=1#post212968)

7. Trunk box, GP Headers (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=212969&viewfull=1#post212969)

8. Dash layout, radiator installation, IRS assembly completed (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=214048&viewfull=1#post214048)

9. Coyote received (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=215078&viewfull=1#post215078)

10. Coyote accelerator pedal modification (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=215569&viewfull=1#post215569)

11. IRS setup recommendation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=215835&viewfull=1#post215835)

12. Coyote mockup (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=216062&viewfull=1#post216062)

13. Coyote control pack installation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=216518&viewfull=1#post216518)

14. Lower radiator hose, instrument panel and glovebox (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=219268&viewfull=1#post219268)

16. Front Wilwood brakes (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=219762&viewfull=1#post219762)

17. Coyote Mustang style expansion tank and hoses (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=220495&viewfull=1#post220495)

18. Rear Wilwood brakes (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=221255&viewfull=1#post221255)

19. Coyote tach connection (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=221568&viewfull=1#post221568)

20. KRC power steering (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=222823&viewfull=1#post222823)

21. Panel mockup complete (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=224831&viewfull=1#post224831)

22. E-brake modification, cables through frame (not under) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=225428&viewfull=1#post225428)

23. Instrument panel cover and installation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=225977&viewfull=1#post225977)

24. Heated seats (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=227108&viewfull=1#post227108)

25. Powder coated panel installation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=228029&viewfull=1#post228029)

26. SS fuel lines and filter (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=228787&viewfull=1#post228787)

27. SS brake lines (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=229659&viewfull=1#post229659)

28. Rear harness, fuel tank, instrument panel mount (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=230347&viewfull=1#post230347)

29. Power wiring (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=231732&viewfull=1#post231732)

30. Lizard Skin insulation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=232616&viewfull=1#post232616)

31. Dash and wiring harness (scroll down for multiple posts) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=232693&viewfull=1#post232693)

32. LED headlights and running lights (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=236455&viewfull=1#post236455)

33. Spinner adapter set screws (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=237252&viewfull=1#post237252)

34. Locking gas cap, leather dye, dash handle, charcoal filter (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=237684&viewfull=1#post237684)

35. Coyote assembly (scroll down for multiple posts) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=238463&viewfull=1#post238463)

36. Door latches and door cards (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=240383&viewfull=1#post240383)

37. Coyote installation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=240659&viewfull=1#post240659)

38. Hydraulic clutch (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=241416&viewfull=1#post241416)

39. First start (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=242282&viewfull=1#post242282)

40. Go-kart (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=242605&viewfull=1#post242605)

41. Wiring spreadsheet (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=243285&viewfull=1#post243285)

42. Body prep and fitting (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=244571&viewfull=1#post244571)

43. Wiper installation (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=247287&viewfull=1#post247287)

44. Side louvers (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=247719&viewfull=1#post247719)

45. Body undercoat (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=248964&viewfull=1#post248964)

46. Radiator screen and surround (scroll down for multiple posts) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=255780&viewfull=1#post255780)

47. Final assembly before paint (scroll down for multiple posts) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=259099&viewfull=1#post259099)

48. Paint (scroll down for multiple posts and pages) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=261008&viewfull=1#post261008)

49. Visors, wind wings, mirrors (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=263363&viewfull=1#post263363)

50. Final assembly (scroll down for multiple posts) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=266422&viewfull=1#post266422)

51. 2017 Detroit Autorama (scroll down for multiple posts) (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=269183&viewfull=1#post269183)

52. It’s a wrap (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=269675&viewfull=1#post269675)

53. Build thread P.S. (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=272985&viewfull=1#post272985)

54. 2018 Detroit Autorama Ford Performance (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=359792&viewfull=1#post359792)

55. 5000 miles report (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=371018&viewfull=1#post371018)

PeteMeindl

04-21-2020, 09:27 PM

Thanks, Paul! You taking the time to add things like the table of contents is really helpful to all of us out here. Thank you.

Straversi

04-21-2020, 09:56 PM

Ha, this is cheating. I had this thing memorized during my build.
Such a great resource. Thanks again Paul.
-Steve

ToddQ

06-25-2020, 04:55 PM

edwardb

06-26-2020, 08:58 AM

I just read this whole thread today and took quite a few notes. Since I use EverNote to keep track of things, it keeps a link to the direct post so you'll be sure to be credited! You made a beautiful car and did a great job with the thread as well!

A sincere thank you!

You read whole thing? :p Impressive. Thank you and you're welcome. The thread that keeps on giving. Now in it's fourth season approaching 7K miles and still love the car. Had it at a cruise-in last night with lots of lookers and positive comments. Good luck with your build.

jiriza84641

06-26-2020, 10:48 AM

I just read this whole thread today and took quite a few notes. Since I use EverNote to keep track of things, it keeps a link to the direct post so you'll be sure to be credited! You made a beautiful car and did a great job with the thread as well!

A sincere thank you!

ToddQ, I have also read the thread prior to my kit arrival, also went through other threads, Edwardb has been helpful along with other builders. you can't go wrong with the forum.

ToddQ

06-27-2020, 11:48 AM

You read whole thing? :p Impressive. Thank you and you're welcome. The thread that keeps on giving. Now in it's fourth season approaching 7K miles and still love the car. Had it at a cruise-in last night with lots of lookers and positive comments. Good luck with your build.

Ha! Yes, I'm a little slower now, but I took speed-reading classes in grade school. Up to 1,500 words per minute! I also had to slow down to take good notes :) Thanks for wishing me luck with my build, I'll need it!

ThreeSpore

07-09-2020, 04:37 PM

Hi Paul, how did you secure your tunnel cover in place? Thanks!

edwardb

07-09-2020, 09:54 PM

Hi Paul, how did you secure your tunnel cover in place? Thanks!

Post #339 on page 9 describes and pictures how I attached the transmission tunnel cover. Don't know why you couldn't find it. :rolleyes: Direct link: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=244996&viewfull=1#post244996.

The post shows the three attachment points. One slips into existing sheet metal. The other two have bolts that are accessible from the bottom. I wanted the attachment hidden but still solid. All good and (so far...) haven't had to remove it now in its fourth driving season. I think there's value in having the cover removable. Plus I wanted the leather covering (vs. standard carpet) so it's natural to have it as a separate piece. You'll have to decide whether the hidden attachment method is worth it. Definately some extra work for maybe minimal payback. Many just put screws along the sides. Doesn't take many. It's what I ended up doing on my Coupe build. Used black chrome screws which kind of blend in with the black covering.

ThreeSpore

07-09-2020, 10:52 PM

Post #339 on page 9 describes and pictures how I attached the transmission tunnel cover. Don't know why you couldn't find it. :rolleyes: Direct link: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?18591-EdwardBs-Mk4-8674-20th-Anniversary-Build&p=244996&viewfull=1#post244996.

The post shows the three attachment points. One slips into existing sheet metal. The other two have bolts that are accessible from the bottom. I wanted the attachment hidden but still solid. All good and (so far...) haven't had to remove it now in its fourth driving season. I think there's value in having the cover removable. Plus I wanted the leather covering (vs. standard carpet) so it's natural to have it as a separate piece. You'll have to decide whether the hidden attachment method is worth it. Definately some extra work for maybe minimal payback. Many just put screws along the sides. Doesn't take many. It's what I ended up doing on my Coupe build. Used black chrome screws which kind of blend in with the black covering.

Perfect, I must have missed it :-) thanks again mate. I am also doing a leather covering, and was pondering ways to attach. You method looks quite straight forward and I will definitely re-use that.

ActionBa5tard

07-15-2020, 09:14 PM

edwardb

07-16-2020, 07:39 AM

Hi Edward! How did you route your rear brake line off the master cyl? I know you went down the square tube behind the drivers pedal, but how did you route around the pedal bracket, steering column, and multiple bolts that go in there? (also how do you bend your brake lines so damn well?)

For the rear brake lines, I mounted the rear master cylinder on the inside and it's a pretty simple curve over to the corner of the footbox and down. Pic 1 below. From there, down the side of the 3/4-inch tube. Pic 2. Held in place with the same clamps I used everywhere else. Pic 3 is the view from the outside. Then out the bottom through a hole in the footbox and to the rear along the 4-inch chassis tube. Pic 4. Later filled this hole with silicone to seal and prevent any rubbing. For this build, this routing avoided any mounting bolts, the steering column, etc. Since it's a Coyote build, the drive by wire (DBW) accelerator pedal doesn't interfere with this location. No wires, cables, whatever. Once completed, some are concerned the brake line through this area is buried under insulation and carpet. I'm OK with it since it's stainless plus there are no fittings or joints. In this case, it's one piece from the master cylinder to the tee fitting at the back. Takes some patience to make that piece and then get it into place. But got it done. I use the kit supplied steel lines to mock up every piece. Then duplicate using the SS tubing. As far as straight, yeah I know that's an issue because usually when you buy bulk tubing it's coiled. Inline Tube, a well known mainly on-line supplier of tubing and fittings is local for me. So I go to their place and get the SS pieces over the counter and left straight. They also have the mounting clips, tube nuts, tees, etc. Then it's just a matter of careful planning and execution.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/.highres/IMG_3976_zpsikfeb1aa.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/844a0beb-1ecb-4083-86f3-88969cc43846/p/8ba9d0f0-fd78-4526-ab44-e94f13bc578a)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/.highres/IMG_3957_zpsapkf0x3i.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/844a0beb-1ecb-4083-86f3-88969cc43846/p/09d99a98-2e55-44e7-a678-3e5c8cfb8bc4)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/.highres/IMG_3958_zpsjavjryz5.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/844a0beb-1ecb-4083-86f3-88969cc43846/p/d8cb4cfd-6ec3-41d5-a562-19dd58550f97)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Fuel%20and%20Brake%20Lines/.highres/IMG_3964_zps3cc84ts7.jpg (https://app.photobucket.com/u/edwardb123/a/844a0beb-1ecb-4083-86f3-88969cc43846/p/95d6eebe-e044-42eb-a565-1e5f99e643ef)