Oil issues: Dry Sump, Accusump for road racing?

[Rob T]

BTW....the left axis is quarts of oil and the bottom axis is time in days.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

BTW....the left axis is quarts of oil and the bottom axis is time in days.
Hi Rob,
My tank may be higher and bigger diameter. Also it sat for a longer time.
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When the oil makes it to the to the level of the piston rings, it will start filling the cylinders and exhaust manifold.

I am going to put a manual valve on the dry sum tank line. The valve have a switch connected to the starter solenoid wire.
Bob

[Rob T]

Bob: Your tank is definitely larger diameter and much higher in the car. The bottom of my tank is below the transmission. The head pressure difference would be substantial.

[Sgt.Gator]

As ya'll know I am an advocate for dry sumping your Subaru engine. But if there was a cheaper way without the added complexity and potential failure points....
Which led me to looking at Saker cars (again). Although they are almost unknown in the US, and don't seem to be taking the world by storm except in the Netherlands, they have been around for 16 years under various owners on different continents and are still making some very fast Subaru powered cars. It looks like they have a new website, at least since the last time I looked at them:

http://sakersportscars.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/39saker131112_small.jpg


In digging around they claim up to 2.0 G cornering, and they don't use a dry sump or any kind of Accusump/Moroso accumulator. Part of the reason is they are essentially a stock powered EJ22 at 275 HP. But that explains the reliability except for the oiling.

https://kbsrpg.by.files.1drv.com/y4m-ERpP60U7g5dR8SKnN5A6-23dJcAxSox5YJ_D7s9vI033i_8qIEk5aKsMdS8OhtScMYtRNRp laWZoeyqZNPvHmtnYVVqgyM_W5BIeu422jLcTk5B9YCH_5YWaJ pvL18vhyqW8b9-xW3b0-7mwgdAXkKejewIHh9weI8YX3DB5QRwVKzmMghJNc6-bRP-4YuqDsqq6udc8jgn4np34wGJag?width=1078&height=728&cropmode=none

I found the Owners Manual, Service Manual, and Parts catalog at their website. They have a very complete parts catalog, down to specific fasteners, if only FF could have a parts catalog like that!
They have two items that are unique to their wet sump system. A plate that goes between the block and the sump pan, and the sump pan itself. With the magic of Photoshop I was able to enhance the parts catalog image to see what is inside the pan:

https://jrsrpg.by.files.1drv.com/y4mBY3PRTQ8OZNq7kZFbCGlVEPZCOqRqwuGqYqBlDT9yJ3SpNP HqIGPo6JCkvQh3Q4kmUNHRZgXQcBgVTdbIjWqjxjY_Abm1yUD_ 3KM8oHsUyGma85Jt5SYEh9pRL2_LbB4LshJpLwcbz19ocKsCSt rvScaf0Wvy5LQhsb-BkPLWc7QwANFSVUJ36W-A2oUcyzUFCSd_zAhz2FbtD-ekni7MQ?width=1239&height=700&cropmode=none


I don't know if you have to be a Saker owner to buy these parts. I've emailed them but of course it's Holiday time so I don't expect to hear back from them for awhile.

Merry Christmas everyone!

PS: And if you're looking for a last minute Christmas present:

https://dqzrr9k4bjpzk.cloudfront.net/images/15672103/947191942.jpg

https://www.belmitdevelopment.com/store.html#!/Piston-oil-squirter-assembly-Subaru-EJ25/p/125146902/category=0

[Mitch Wright]

I spend quite a bit of time researching wet sumps and along with the Subaru’s running the VLN series I came across Saker Cars. I started emailing s guy from Saker when I made the decision run a wet
sump. I have to do some digging because I don’t recall his name but very helpful. The photos of the pan he sent looked much like a Cosworth pan along with photos of the oil control plate. I have actually made a copy but haven’t used it. Since I have installed Bill Walkers plate, it takes the concept 4-5 steps further. I have data before and after the plate. Before the plate I had good oil pressure at all times (65lb or higher at 220* oil temp) is was seeing some slight (maybe 7psi) fluctuations. With Bills plate the fluctuation is gone.

[Mitch Wright]

FYI I think Retro has or had a Saker in their shop

[Mechie3]

That oil squirter plate is pretty inexpensive considering the amount of 3D contour CNC work is on it.

[Zach34]

That oil squirter plate is pretty inexpensive considering the amount of 3D contour CNC work is on it.

Shockingly inexpensive. Must be run on one hell of a fast machine. Plus, you have the squirters to fabricate - perhaps even hand-bent and brazed onto those bases.

[Sgt.Gator]

The squiter plate also has some of the features of Bill Walker's oil control plate. The raised section is a crank scraper, but it's unlike any crank scraper I've seen on a Subaru before. From their website: "We have also integrated a three part aluminum and steel windage tray/baffle system into the oiler plate to ruduce power robbing oil windage and help return the oil to the sump as fast as possible."

The Cosworth crank scrapers are quite different:

https://i7tana.by.files.1drv.com/y4mI0OhgsXCqHihPw31ZLJdt989c5MX_ooSJ4f9GP-724ESJfgXe1-35H654p4m8jiCvF4E9psXHPUbvFqbwT36d7yE1E_jVnDETwB4m ul98H_cMG_p27wmiTkGS2eu8-wXxcw2cYxw2wTZmGYu7L7oLLi0mvOn6P_vlStZq9G7IDKOAmgc I8v0IrkepUPFr9VKle8xa_Mq5X_jKjJTvPJRHg?width=640&height=424&cropmode=none

Bill's scrapers: https://klr1eq.by.files.1drv.com/y4mnmzPbr28qcVYq4QUUI3KNC29ox2rQyRToPel1o35AN6ZHV7 8UzCKxeK3MV6Og5p7m1WGe2KreuzTPzSOe5VNdadaKCRf7Q5TF dj4IAhybmqkafs409QpuXUdfzecrJlV4JW8YlnhEsqATPSSU_W uf9lxEWw1tdJXcDQCd6K7Nyzzn20rPfuI1rLt8hjUCQjYRupEu 6iZLRX3yB5rPZeqzQ?width=660&height=549&cropmode=none


However I doubt there was any in depth engineering analysis done on how large the squirter jets should be (orifice size) or what effect they will have on oil pressure. I'm guessing (hoping) the designer copied the Subaru OEM oil squirters they used to include on many of their performance engines.

"We recommend at least the 11mm oil pump, but prefer the 12mm pump to supply the additional volume needed. The 12mm pump yields 100psi cold start pressure and 60-80psi warm at 2500-3000rpm cruise with 15w40. 20-40psi at idle depending on temp and oil used."

I'd like to see what they get at race rpms and heat. Such as 7,000 RPM at 220 degrees.

The oil feed has to be from an external pump like a dry sump, or some sort of split off the oem pump. I'm not sure how I would hook it up. Possibly a AN line from a port on the block using the oem pressure, like the turbo feed line on the passenger side but use a port on the driver side, or on the top of the engine:

https://mbtana.by.files.1drv.com/y4mLN3UHeV_fhPVHuVgQamymrfaTNyVnG1c1GPtjdRmwKFIdXW X0zbV3anH7oHq-J4FB3yQ3XTtroU-Qm6fi41fwHVe6aXa1IreMhaF4oiw167uBo1ODSmTc3Gls1fuET B4Tmh71wu18bAPE_8bwKhZvqlP7aVFlAvd0yPUC3gVrYB1uBgQ HyvvbDOyG-b6lLlHz2O3ceefsuObtEk3SZNoYA?width=660&height=469&cropmode=none

It helps to read the instructions! : "Simply run a T fitting off of the oil pressure port on top of the block and -4AN line down to the plate and your ready to go."

I could probably tee a 4AN line from the pressure side of my dry sump on it's way back to the DS tank , or even a 3an to really restrict the volume. It would need some testing. Then there would be no affect on the oil pressure for the rest of the engine. And if the oil has some air mixed into it from the scavenge it doesn't matter because it's only being used to wash down the bottom of the pistons.

[Mitch Wright]

I did remove the KB windage tray when I installed Bills plate. FYI looking back at my data it looks as though the oil temp is about 10* lower with Bills plate. More data will verify but that is what I have noticed comparing before Bills plate and after Bills plate data.

Gator, have you been able to finish up your 818R and plan to have it out this spring?

[Sgt.Gator]

Gator, have you been able to finish up your 818R and plan to have it out this spring?

99% complete yes. I need to change out the driver seat. The Kirkey is too difficult to get a back brace to work with our firewall. And the belts need to be re-placed and the mounts re-configured. This March/April I will be doing a lot of aero pressure and flow testing in the 818R. I've spent a lot of time looking at the 60s - 70s - 80s LeMans race cars and the aerodynamics lessons learned there. I'm thinking about how those lessons can be applied to the 818R.

Next summer it will be competing in some dry weather races.

[biknman]

https://www.instagram.com/p/BtD4BP8gvEi/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=f97p67dbq56s
http://magnusmotorsports.com/product/magnus-subaru-ej25-dry-sump-kit/
101270
New kit on the market

[Zach34]

https://www.instagram.com/p/BtD4BP8gvEi/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=f97p67dbq56s
http://magnusmotorsports.com/product/magnus-subaru-ej25-dry-sump-kit/
101270
New kit on the market

The drill they are using to test it in that video isn't spinning very fast, and yet the pressure is almost instantly pegging out the >fuel< pressure gauge they are using at over 100 psi. I guess I hope there's a bypass, or something? Thoughts?

[EODTech87]

The drill they are using to test it in that video isn't spinning very fast, and yet the pressure is almost instantly pegging out the >fuel< pressure gauge they are using at over 100 psi. I guess I hope there's a bypass, or something? Thoughts?
The gear reduction will slow down the speed of the pump and they’re doing the test with cold oil so I’m sure it will be ok. Biggest issue is going to be lack of room in front of the engine on the 818. Add that gear to the front and you might be hitting the frame. The cosworth dry sump uses the same type of setup.

[Scargo]

I would not say the raised sections are crank scrapers. I would say these are dams to block and slow the sloshing of oil up into the heads. I think this is a really good design.
Is there any consensus that Bill's plate is superior to KillerB's? How many are running them?
Looking at the Saker pieces I would say they are along the lines of Roger Clark Motorsports or Cosworth pans.
Lastly, RCM has made custom valve covers for their Gobstopper and their DS system. They don't offer them for sale. They put an AN fitting in the rear corner. Could be easily TIG'd into a stock cover. This is also what Chris, of KB recommends if you do DS. That you have a five pump scavenging system.

Also EODTech87 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/member.php?9930-EODTech87) , they may not have a pressure relief valve in that short-loop system they are running as a demo.

[Mitch Wright]

Bill Walker can chime in with how may folks are using his plate. I have one of the first and have run 8+ track days with it. I believe it does to a better job of limiting the oil getting to the heads. I am basing this on my TMIC being dry with no trace oil. With the KB windage tray I would see a slight trace of oil making it to the IC.

[Scargo]

Does anyone have Bill Walker's contact information or can anyone get him to message me here or on FB? I am Glyn Churchman on FB. I'd like to buy some of his baffle plates.

[Mitch Wright]

PM sent
Discussion and photo's of Bill's plate and development process. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?25915-Anyone-having-long-term-success-without-using-a-dry-sump-system/page3
admin@arctangentdesign.com.

[Hobby Racer]

Official web here:

http://arctangentdesign.com/

[Mitch Wright]

I have never heard my car form the outside, if I do say so myself it sounds darn good on Bills video.

[Scargo]

PM sent
Discussion and photo's of Bill's plate and development process. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?25915-Anyone-having-long-term-success-without-using-a-dry-sump-system/page3
admin@arctangentdesign.com.
Tried admin@archtangentdesign.com and sales@.. and they were kicked back. If anyone can roust Bill to respond to emails or PM's here I would appreciate it!
Glyn

[Mitch Wright]

It usually takes a few days to hear back when I e-mail him. I did talk to Bill a few weeks ago and he was going to be traveling.

[Scargo]

Has anyone used Bill's plate in conjunction with the KillerB windage tray? Looks like it's doable. Seems like a good combo.

[Mitch Wright]

I debated weather to leave my KB windage tray, in the end I removed it. Bill had told me that it is designed to be used without it.

[Blwalker105]

Hi all. Just wanted to give a big thanks for everyone who went the extra mile trying to track me down to purchase an Arctangent Oil Control Plate these last few months. My wife and I decided to try a winter in Phoenix, but my computer, my website, my webmail and just about everything else decided I had gone to another planet. A big thanks is in order for Mitch Wright and Wayne Presley for helping out. We're back home in Indy now, and things are back to normal. Sales are going quite well, and I hope to soon be advertising on various Subaru forums. Just about ready to order my wiring harness from iWire and my short block from IAG. Hope to have my build project on the front burner again soon and am looking forward to go-karting it early this summer.

[Mitch Wright]

Welcome back Bill.
Great to hear that the oil control plate is selling well. I am not surprised, a quality part that fits and works for a fair price.

[Mulry]

We have completed fabrication and install of our custom dry sump system. Leak testing today. Will try to get photos for a longer narrative description.

[Scargo]

We have completed fabrication and install of our custom dry sump system. ...
Would love to see new ideas and components for a DIY system.

[Mulry]

The brief but short story of the development of our custom dry sump setup:

Having followed the stories of lubrication failures on the Subaru motor in 818R application, and particularly on cars being raced on slicks, we investigated further. And since Porsche, the world’s most successful manufacturer of boxer racing engines, has been using dry sumps on all their motors since something like 1962, we decided that we would figure out how to build and install a full dry sump on our 818. The process, start to near-finish (since we proved concept last weekend) has taken about three years of dedicated (if hobbyist) effort. This obviously isn’t a full time job for us, but we had a lot of barriers to scale.

Although there were ready-made (or mostly ready-made) kits on the market when we started, we weren’t happy with any of them or the results that other builders seemed to be having. We didn’t like the compromise of using a suction-only pump and the stock oil pump, and we liked the idea of being able to have control over oil pressure with a variable valve on the oil pump body so as to avoid the problems of too much pressure at WOT and not enough at idle. We determined that we wanted, at minimum, an oil pump with two suction and one pressure stages with an adjustable pressure bypass, and that the bypass needed to be readily accessible with the engine running in the chassis with the full body installed.

We liked the Dailey Engineering setup with the pump integrated into the dry sump plate, but the two downsides to that were the high price and the need to do a custom exhaust header, which was (and remains) outside our expertise and capacity. In addition, being buried under the engine, it’s not easy to get to for pressure adjustment purposes.

Thus, we determined that a full DIY setup was the only way to achieve all our goals. While a low-mount oil pump also primes more easily, having removed the A/C from the engine, the backside of the alternator bracket appeared to be the ideal place to locate a dry sump pump.

In addition, we wanted to try to do this on as much of a budget as possible. We purchased the new parts that we needed from ARE (primarily the dry sump plate, crank geared-tooth pulley, oil pump pulley and Spintric). We were able to acquire a used NASCAR 5-stage oil pump off eBay and sent it to a dry sump oil pump shop to have it remanufactured into a three-stage pump (which was still $250 cheaper than new). We also got an ex-Sprint Cup remote oil filter mount and an ex-Sprint Cup oil tank from eBay, both of which were in acceptable condition (and very good condition once they received a little elbow grease and new rubber seals). The oil filter mount also came with a boss for an oil pressure sender and a boss and working oil temp sender as a small bonus. I had a Setrab oil cooler left over from a prior project. I think the only hardware part we bought new (other than the ARE components) is the oil breather catch tank.

Next, we had to buy a huge mess of braided stainless AN hose for fluid conveyance everywhere, along with the associated hose ends and adapters. Most of these lines are either Earl’s or Summit stainless braid hose, but the two suction lines from the dry sump plate and the suction line from the oil tank to the oil pump are XRP ProPlus for its enhanced resistance to collapsing under suction.

There were periodic holdups along the way when we would discover that we didn’t have enough length of some hose or hose ends at the correct angles; normal stuff, really. The biggest obstacle was that we needed to custom-design and fabricate the mounting hardware for the oil pump itself. In the end, that meant that I needed to learn to use CAD software for the design, then locate and learn to use a 3D printer for prototyping and fitment, and then locate and learn to use a vertical mill to accurately machine the mounts.

Fortunately, there is a makerspace in Dallas called, fittingly, the Dallas MakerSpace. For a relatively nominal monthly fee, makers have access to 3D printers, a metal shop, and a machine shop, among other features. Most equipment requires some (or extensive) training, but with patience, all the doors come open. In addition, DMS has been able to acquire maker licensing for many design software packages. Thus, I started learning to design in Fusion 360 and then to print the prototype oil pump and mounting hardware in ABS plastic on DMS’s PolyPrinter 3D printers.

Printing a full-scale replica of the oil pump allowed us to test fitment and design and prototype mounting hardware to ensure that the real deal would fit when we committed our design to metal. My guess is that we probably went through 5 or 6 different design iterations until we got a mount that we were satisfied would be strong enough to withstand what we were asking of it. Probably 2 major iterations and then 3-4 smaller ones as we fine-tuned locations, bolt sizing, etc.

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(It bears noting here that learning the CAD software and getting comfortable with printing parts has been the biggest upside of this part of the project. I have printed a lot of parts that are on the car now in non-structural applications, including a standoff for the fuel sender (nylon) that prevents fuel slosh from throwing off fuel level readings, aerodynamic aids, fuel pump mounting cage, etc. More than that, it’s opened up a thought process toward design and problem solving which has proved useful, and now I own a 3D printer. As I sit here typing this up, it’s printing a revision of the intake plenum for the oil cooler and a brace for the intake air filter and intake air tubing. It's also led down a pretty easy path to being able to use the CAD plasma cutting machine at DMS, which we've used on a couple of race car parts for this project and for our Lemons car)

As we were getting the plastic prototype issues resolved, I moved on to getting trained on and learning to use the Bridgeport vertical mill. Getting certified on the mill permitted me to cut down the ears on the oil pump so that they would fit our needs, and then to precision machine the plate and the bracket assembly upon which the oil pump hangs. I’m sure I was way more anal-retentive than necessary with the DRO on the machine, but I wanted my parts to come out perfect. I’m not sure that they are perfect, but they did fit together correctly the first time and haven’t required modification to make the oil pump fit in its intended location.

Once we had the machined parts, we were able to mount the oil pump. It is a tight fit in the backside of the alt motor mount, in front of the intake manifold and just short enough to not hit one of the cockpit firewall diagonals. The cogged belt that we originally acquired ended up being too long, so we found a shorter belt. Slight shimming of the mounting plate off the alt bracket appears to have gotten it to the correct tightness without a bound-to-fail tensioner.

After testing the final mounting of the oil pump, it was time to finally cut and build all those hoses and figure out mounting locations for everything. The oil cooler and Spintric got mounted to the rear wing mount. The trans oil cooler will mount on the other side of the wing mount so that both get ducted air from the side pod cutouts (another 3D printed part) and exhaust out the back panel. Oil filter mount goes up higher to make it easy to change the oil filter and not have it in the path of danger from getting scraped by an accidental off-roading incident, which sometimes happens at race tracks.

We finally got to the point of testing it this weekend. To our great relief, it worked in the first test without any leaks. We were not able to bring the system to great pressure using just a hand drill, so leaks may appear when we run the engine for the first time (or when we run it at full song on the track), but for now, a success:


https://youtu.be/ZvCatI4YeGA

So, while I’m sure that we will have some troubleshooting in front of us, we’re very excited about where we are at on this part of the project. Here’s a couple photos of how it all fits in the chassis:

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Any questions? Just ask. Cheers.

[Rob T]

Hi: Good to see the progress and innovation. I wish I knew how to use a mill. I have a Spintric on my dry sump system as well. I learned a little bit about them after Chad and I went through some challenges. They separate liquid and foam by centrifugal force. However, the flow paths need to have pretty much the same pressure drop on the discharge as this is purely a mechanical device. The mistake I made on my car was having the spintric before the cooler so that the "foam" leg returned to the top of the oil reservoir and the liquid leg then went on to the cooler and back to the reservoir. Effectively, this moved most of the oil through the "foam" side of the spintric and bypassed the cooler. I solved that problem by running all of the return from the oil pan through the pump, through the cooler, and then into the spintric, which split the flow into the two ports of the reservoir. I was concerned about sending the foamy oil through the cooler, so I spoke to Setrab. They said their coolers are designed to handle the foam with no problem. That is how the set up is running on my car now. Oil pan -> 2 suction lines -> pump discharge -> oil cooler -> spintric -> reservoir. I use gravity feed (over 1 foot of head pressure) to the stock oil pump. Pressure is good at all times. My whole system is vented to atmosphere. I am excited to follow your progress.

[Mulry]

Thanks Rob. Your car (both under your stewardship and Chad's) has provided us strong guidance in going with this setup. Chad's ongoing struggles with oil temp were fundamental to our decision to install a 3-stage oil pump rather than the more common suction-only 2-stage suction and internal pressure pumps. It also guided us to add the Spintric. Now, given what you and he have seen in the interim, I'm not sure we (or you) really need it, but we already have it, so we might as well use it, right? Thanks to your earlier post (and Chad's, before that), we have our output side plumbed identically to yours, despite that not being what Gary recommends in print.

We also vent to atmosphere on one of the fittings from the oil tank. Fortunately, it's relatively easy to remove the oil pump drive belt (just drop one of the bolts that mounts the pump to its bracket) so that we can prime the system with a spare cog on a drill (like in the video). I anticipate we will only need to do that at a start of a racing day.

Our goal is to get the car on track for testing this summer for a late summer/early fall race debut.

[Sgt.Gator]

Mulry, great to see your progress!

[Mulry]

Probably almost as nice as it is to actually be progressing :)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I had a leak on from my dry sump pan.

There is a screw the next to the oil input port. This screw doesn't go into a blind hole. I originally used a M6 x 20mm Socket head cap screw with split lock washer. Oil leaked through the threads and through the split lockwasher and onto the ground. I am replacing this screw and using some thread sealer and a copper sealing washer.



https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/newreply.php?do=postreply&t=15502

Another question. I have be negligent in draining my dry sump breather catch can for a couple of years. I drained it tonight and got about a pint of water. pretty clean, but I still wouldn't drink it. Does this surprise anyone?
Bob

[Rob T]

Bob: I have gotten a little water out of mine every time I've drained it, and a little bit of "chocolately" oil. I've probably done it 3X's since I've had the car, but you've put a lot more hours on yours.

[Sgt.Gator]

It surprises me you haven't had to do it more often! I drain mine every race weekend.

[Rob T]

It's probably the difference between me driving at 7/10 and you at 10/10 :rolleyes:....or it could be that the desert environments I have lived in (central CA and high desert NM) evaporate water more readily. Not sure.

[Mitch Wright]

Rob that is partially true but it is still important to drain the breather can at least at the end of a track day or weekend. You might catch a problem before for it becomes a big problem.

[Rob T]

Excellent suggestion and I will follow it. You gave me good advice about changing the brake fluid....Best to learn from experts.

[Sgt.Gator]

I just re-watched this video and noticed a few things. He emphasizes the change from a wet sump setup to dry sump. Then he says they run their oil pressure at 12.5 bar. That's 181 psi! Holy cow! Can that be right?
Edit: Scargo pointed out that I can't hear very well! It's not 12.5 bar.


Subaru WRX STI RA Tech Talk.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-9v846NQJ0

And a ton of other fascinating details you rarely hear a race team divulge.

[Scargo]

At 2:13 did he say spray bar for the pistons? Did he mead squirters? Having a lot of squirters might require more initial oil pressure.
I heard him say 4.5 Bar and which is only 65 PSI (but I have bad hearing). I run a max of 85. I think he said "always running at 4.5 Bar", which might be interpreted differently, as a minimum? I can't imaging 65 as a maximum oil pressure.
At 7:35 he talks of a "five mill Gurney" and a "ten mill Gurney". That looked more like a 13mm to 17mm Gurney to me.
What a cool car. Sounded like they were getting maybe 10 hours out of the engine (a TT and then a 600 Km event)!

[Sgt.Gator]

At 2:13 did he say spray bar for the pistons? Did he mead squirters? Having a lot of squirters might require more initial oil pressure.
I heard him say 4.5 Bar and which is only 65 PSI (but I have bad hearing). I run a max of 85. I think he said "always running at 4.5 Bar", which might be interpreted differently, as a minimum? I can't imaging 65 as a maximum oil pressure.
At 7:35 he talks of a "five mill Gurney" and a "ten mill Gurney". That looked more like a 13mm to 17mm Gurney to me.
What a cool car. Sounded like they were getting maybe 10 hours out of the engine (a TT and then a 600 Km event)!

You're right, I listened again, he said "4.5 bar all the time". That makes a LOT more sense. And yes, I can totally go with 65 psi hot oil pressure as a max. Heck NASCAR is running 40 and 50 psi pressures.

And I think the piston spray bars are similar to the squirters that came oem on the EJ22T, but I'm guessing that ProDrive has an entirely unique design that overcomes the oem squirter cons.

When he said a TT and 600KM I think he was referring to the 2014 Isle of Man TT car that was wet sump. At 2:30 he says to build in more reliability they added the dry sump.
Thanks,
Gator

If you like that one you'll like this one too!

Subaru Isle of Man Challenge Car: Tech Specs with Mark Higgins

https://youtu.be/WuHuFaX5q4k

[Sgt.Gator]

2016 Subaru WRX STI Isle of Man TT -- Flat Out

https://youtu.be/DRg5Sp1iQMc

Mark Higgins is incredible.

[Scargo]

Subaru Isle of Man Challenge Car: Tech Specs with Mark Higgins

https://youtu.be/WuHuFaX5q4k[/B]
Could be something else, but it looked like they had a Accusump mounted on the right side! The car has a dry sump, right? What is the whitish cylinder in the middle? Any other informative links on the car?

[Sgt.Gator]

Subaru Rocket Anti-Lag. It's very hard on engines.

https://bl6pap004files.storage.live.com/y4m8WILiT0iQIceijbJlU5nPcuUJ2zw8GcfVTj59p-9acl9Gjoq6vD6GNg_mG6beffxAEsY6D1eunJEaSZd1PBicsYrd rJmhIn_s5QqqWcZY_sEIbbRK8u0_UshhgM9BEVChvFxCqIsmjC-XAWxve7n-HTNdHM3Y162K-8pTWpTpEaGRfN2HDS2i8GSPr-uNign?width=1024&height=587&cropmode=none..https://bl6pap004files.storage.live.com/y4mw15o8vtmkiHJe2zE8uK9X1SO9ekYK-PXZ64VvZMOua6xmRAl7fZ5o3iIZkwLglOG_XedxMUq77r-mx9cWSmpLKapvAVGhyPLtiC8Mah9oxY0WeAeOVkO6FbFLSgER1 dnme-sI9bfkOc_SzvGqXSa4ozBIV8W_3wKhkRKTUNyurJT_autwfOyW zQCVN7Xqs8x?width=852&height=275&cropmode=none

Rocket Antilag System - How it works on Subaru Impreza WRC cars!

https://youtu.be/ms3U7Ztoip8

PRODRIVE / MOTORSPORT / CASE STUDIES / SUBARU
https://www.prodrive.com/motorsport-casestudies-subaru

[Scargo]

What I'm seeing.
145314

[Sgt.Gator]

Yep, looks like one. In the above first Tech Talk video at the Goodwood Festival of Speed the car he's talking about (I'm 99% sure) is the Goodwood Festival of Speed car which became the 2017 Nurburgring record car, which is the modified version of the 2016 Isle of Man TT car. The Tech Talk was uploaded to You Tube in July 2017. The engine bays look identical in this video:

https://bl6pap004files.storage.live.com/y4m2B017JsjlDNApdmkqGbEzdrI6GvOW2nFXT1wanBYfWZ8OCs _mmZoXkaTvbBgE9OA345-2rj2-4-tVyLCSXmjSydKOR_E4iOrj1qxi_-1AZEjKUc_zU0xatf_FO-pjyoVlgDamcQFR7H_spXvgsySoyvpekd_9HR67m4gXjnEfMNk6 jFxAvWpxkIIKXPes_Za?width=660&height=361&cropmode=none
https://bl6pap004files.storage.live.com/y4m0-TFUuAEzXXytYeMeH7bW8kcuKKjTcC_v2EDfwC257G_fqzjxi6M e4-k6g_hNYPG2PZVdPCPIXKBzJ_4ULY2bK3w-MNPwl-EFctQIywrWwGfEOO4lHIiM1f38MuDXiRPXeGgkmTKDieLtKAiA yiNy3v9XtoS8FAO2LIUsBUu-HkautXbYsM7mJc39E5PGiCj?width=980&height=599&cropmode=none


https://youtu.be/KCiahBMis1E

[Sgt.Gator]

And the same car modified again for the 2018 Romanian Highway run. 52 miles!

Subaru STI Type RA Time Attack Car & the Transfăgărășan Highway


https://youtu.be/ZnpWFYqlg0Q

[Sgt.Gator]

My new 3 stage dry sump is working great! See my build thread for more details.

[Scargo]

New product on the market I thought I would share with us dry sump-ers!
https://shop.getadomtune.com/doms-dry-sump-pulley/
I have thought seriously about buying one as I have a Dailey DS laying around. Dom has said that this is a far superior and proper way to drive the pumps since it does not put a strain on the timing belt and throw timing off on the left bank.

[biknman]

I have thought seriously about buying one as I have a Dailey DS laying around. Dom has said that this is a far superior and proper way to drive the pumps since it does not put a strain on the timing belt and throw timing off on the left bank.

FYI I removed my thread as I can't recommend this vendor so buyer beware! After recent transition dealings I wouldn't recommend them to my fellow 818r's. Although seems like pretty good product if you can get one. Good Luck!

[Scargo]

Dom seems to have some issues. I do believe he is a brilliant guy, but seems lately he is a bit of a loose cannon, what with all his wacky videos.
He also posts on FB new CAD designs and parts offerings and they're nowhere to be found to order. He has too many sites that are not defined, linked or cohesive.
Dom seemed a little peeved with me when I said I could not find a top-mount AWIC he was designing and that I wanted to know the specs and what it would fit... He was secretive and/or acting like I should be able to read his mind. He mentioned a name of where the info was, and I couldn't find it. I guess you must have the secret password/be an insider! You must want to have his parts really bad.

[biknman]

Dom seems to have some issues. I do believe he is a brilliant guy, but seems lately he is a bit of a loose cannon, what with all his wacky videos.
He also posts on FB new CAD designs and parts offerings and they're nowhere to be found to order. He has too many sites that are not defined, linked or cohesive.
Dom seemed a little peeved with me when I said I could not find a top-mount AWIC he was designing and that I wanted to know the specs and what it would fit... He was secretive and/or acting like I should be able to read his mind. He mentioned a name of where the info was, and I couldn't find it. I guess you must have the secret password/be an insider! You must want to have his parts really bad.

Yup Ditto! I think the whole cooling mod that "he came up with" and so many copied so quickly has him a little bitter and super reserved when it comes to selling his very customized parts. Plus the Suby community is known for and is full of turds so I can't blame him really. :-)

[Sgt.Gator]

Dry Sumps, Wet Sumps & Accusumps Explained | MounTune [TECH TALK]
This comes up a lot here. Thought ya'll might like to see what MounTune has to say. We run dry sumps on both our Subaru powered cars, but if you can't afford a DS, then Accusump is a viable option.



https://youtu.be/csDa_Di8r44