818Rasmus E Modified

[Rasmus]

It begins.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_3083.jpg
The parts from a 2006 WRX arrived today. The chitlins and I picked them up at the freight terminal. Two pallets of parts.

[Canadian818]

Congrats

[Frank818]

Yeah another one!
Any goals set so far?

[Mechie3]

Goal 1: beat XP lotus
Goal 2: see goal 1

[Rasmus]

Goal 1: beat XP lotus
Goal 2: see goal 1
I originally was shooting for E Modified. But when you see That Car (http://www.scca.com/ImageLibrary/Master/1802.jpg), you realize just how small it is. You know that the 818 is too wide, too long, and too fat to have a chance even if you were the best driver in all of Solo.

[longislandwrx]

I see in your future...
24300
The lightest 818 so far!

Congrats.



Goal 1: beat XP lotus
Goal 2: see goal 1

24301

24302

[RM1SepEx]

Nice looking bug eye! I look forward to following your build... Mine will only be a part time autocrosser as I'm addicted to my DD2 shifter kart for autocross

[Mike N]

WOW! I wish you luck beating Fred Zust's Lotus, that is a highly developed car. Care to share some details of your plans? BTW, I understand your reluctance in taking on Jeff Kiesel. :rolleyes:

[Jeff Kleiner]

XP? Do you know something that I don't? Last I heard the SEB put the 818 into A Mod with the featherweight winged cars.

Jeff

[Rasmus]

XP? Do you know something that I don't? Last I heard the SEB put the 818 into A Mod with the featherweight winged cars.

The SEB puts everything in AMod they haven't looked at closely enough. AMod just a place holder. The SEB wanted to actually see a few of these cars built before they made their decision. Initially, I wanted the 818 to class in EMod but when you see the over size go carts in that class you know the 818 is too wide, too long, and too heavy to compete. So I went back to the rulebook. And X Prepared has many Kit Cars already approved to run. Three of them are Factory Five cars. So it's my HOPE that the 818 is approved for XP.

Plus the minimum weights in XP are on a sliding scale. Not tiered like EMod.

Weights in XP are determined by several factors with the major factor being engine displacement with a 1.4 times adjustment for forced induction. The short of it being:

Running RWD, engine behind driver, no ABS, no traction control, car with a 1.994L (92.00x75) turbo motor minimum weight would be 1815 lb.
Running RWD, engine behind driver, no ABS, no traction control, car with a 2.333L (99.50x75) turbo motor minimum weight would be 1919 lb.
Running RWD, engine behind driver, no ABS, no traction control, car with a 2.344L (99.75x75) turbo motor minimum weight would be 1923 lb.
Running RWD, engine behind driver, no ABS, no traction control, car with a 2.457L (99.50x79) turbo motor minimum weight would be 1957 lb.

My goal is the 2.344L turbo with min. weight 1923 lb. I'll have to add ballast.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Yeah, I knew all that, just thought maybe something developed that I missed. I figure they'll hold it to AM for a season then slot it in to where it really belongs (XP, EM or ??). I agree that XP seems to be the most logical (however it has been proven time and again that "SCCA" and "logical" are often mutually exclusive :p). Remember when looking at weight requirements that Prepared class car minimums are WITHOUT driver and Modified class minimums are WITH the driver.

Jeff

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0005.jpg
Looks like this was once a World Rally Blue, 2006, WRX. Looks like it sold for salvage 2012, March 12th. And if I'm ever in a Speedway I won't have to fill out an application to get a 50% discount on Coco Puffs that have been marked up 100%.

[longislandwrx]

You should call up and see what "rewards" you have accumulated... If ever in Ohio you may be entitled to some nachos my friend!

[SixStar]

Remember when looking at weight requirements that Prepared class car minimums are WITHOUT driver and Modified class minimums are WITH the driver.

Jeff

This is a nice perk for us. We are racing XP and STR-3 but since P is without driver and STR is WITH we're golden. NASA dictates our weight.

1951 with 245s and 221whp WITH driver means the 1815 weight for XP should be our goal and actually put us over for NASA @ 1995 with my fat a$$ in the car.

Mocked up our Solo wheels yesterday
24321

[Mike N]

Mocked up our Solo wheels yesterday
24321

MEATY...... How far are they going to stick out past the stock body? How far do they restrict turning radius? Having seen posts on here with far narrower wheel and tire set ups encountering interference with the frame or at least marginal clearance I have to wonder just how much effort that will take to make work.

[SixStar]

MEATY...... How far are they going to stick out past the stock body? How far do they restrict turning radius? Having seen posts on here with far narrower wheel and tire set ups encountering interference with the frame or at least marginal clearance I have to wonder just how much effort that will take to make work.

At some point you stop putting tires under the car and just start putting them on in Solo :D

Hitting the frame isn't an issue, we'll need steering stops for sure, but in Solo if you're turning that much you're doing it wrong. I can get one full rotation of the steering wheel before contact, but keep in mind that's with no alignment, and I haven't put the caster bushings on yet either. We're toying with the idea of running the wagon mounts to get us a little more width too.

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0018.jpg
Spent half of yesterday and all of today pulling one third of my '68 Cadillac parts out of my shed. I hadn't organized the shed well; there was a bunch of space to be had with a proper resort.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0019.jpg
Fit two new shelving units inside the Shed of Shame. Both dedicated to 818R parts.

[Mechie3]

Not much grass there huh.

[Rasmus]

Recreating Ireland in the desert requires water. Water you have to pay for and plumb for.

[Rasmus]

Sorted through things a bit more.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0020.jpg
That is one intimating box when opened.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0022.jpg
It contained the entire wiring harness from my donor.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0023.jpg
Plus ECU. 22611AL350 = Model Year 2006 WRX Sedan or Wagon

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0024.jpg
Some parts are in rough shape.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0025.jpg
Transmission came from a different Subaru Model, by my request.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0026.jpg
TY757VWAAB = US Legacy Turbo Outback MY05-09. That's not what I requested. I wanted the TY757VBAAB = US Legacy Turbo GT MY05-07. The gear ratio's are the same inside both transmissions. It's the final drive that differs. The one I received (TY757VWAAB) has a 4.444 final drive. The one I wanted (TY757VBAAB) has a 4.111 final drive. Screws up my gearing estimates. For Solo, I don't ever want to shift to third. My estimate with 23.5" tall tires maxs me out a 73.6 mph in second with the 4.444 final. With the 4.111, second stretches to 79.5 mph. Knowing my local Solo courses are tight, I'm not sure yet if this is a good thing or a bad thing.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0027.jpg
Took much more time than I thought to get the motor onto the stand. But there it is.

[Mechie3]

The wiring is less intimidating once it's all stretched out. In a huge bundles it's just a pile of "oh fudge".

[RM1SepEx]

what he said!

[metalmaker12]

Yea it is not horrible, just be careful to not cut too much

[longislandwrx]

You'd have more room if you got that 68 back on the frame :D

[Rasmus]

Zing!

I refer to the '68 by two different names. If I've worked on it in the past 2 weeks it's "The Cadillac"; if more than two weeks have passed since last working on it, it's "The P.O.S." Pile Of Shame.

Today, it's "The Cadillac".

[RM1SepEx]

Is that the big block 472 CI ERA?

Everyone needs too many projects... its like a low grade fever that never goes away... (says the man with 119 pistons)

[Rasmus]

Is that the big block 472 CI ERA?

Good eye there. I own both. The 472 that came with my '68 Cadillac Coupe deVille and a 500 in^3 that came out of a '74 Cadillac Eldorado. 500 in^3 = ~8.2 liters. That's over a liter per cylinder. I'll have to do a side by side picture of the Cad500 block and the EJ255 and then one of the two crankshafts.

[Rasmus]

Had the itch to get something done.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0029.jpg
Removed all three accessories and brackets, the G.B.O.D. (Green Brackets of Death), some tubes, and the upper coolant tank.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0028.jpg
No issues. No broken bolts. PB Blaster is my friend.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0030.jpg
Oil Fill tube didn't make it though. Looks like it snapped between palletting and arrival at the shipping terminal.

[metalmaker12]

Those tubes always crack, and it sucks when you don't notice it

[Mechie3]

I have billet oil fill tubes for sale (due in after xmas now.... :mad:) or for cheap can sell you my stock oil fill tube (you'll need to reuse the o-ring on your stock one since I broke my experimenting).

[Rasmus]

The S.O.'s gift:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0055.jpg
Perfect. Spent hours putting it together. Dozens of 7mm nuts with separate washers can get bent. Only got one part wrong. Double caulked everything up; read they leaked a bit. Gonna need to purchase some more baking soda.

[Xusia]

That's awesome!

[Canadian818]

I have the same cabinet, caulked it as well. I too was surprised at how tedious it was to put together. Congrats.

[RM1SepEx]

use 3/16 pop rivets instead to speed up assy???

[Canadian818]

use 3/16 pop rivets instead to speed up assy???

Thanks dan, where were you 4 months ago? :)

[RM1SepEx]

1 I'm and engineer, problem soln is just a natural process
2 I have MS and haven't had normal feeling in my fingers for almost 23 years... so I do threads as little as possible
3 it is never coming apart, is it? if not why use screws

Do yourself a favor and buy an air riveter, even the Harbor Freight one will improve your attitude during a big project (unless you want to build up Popeye forearms!)

[Rasmus]

use 3/16 pop rivets instead to speed up assy???
Oh, now comes the brilliant ideas! Yep 3/16 and 1/8 pop rivets in assorted grip lengths would have made this go faster. Especially for the main box and hopper. Pop riveting just those two (3/16" short grip) would have saved oodles of time.

[Rasmus]

This is the only time I'm gonna do this: show off parts before install. After this I'll only post them as I install. Pinky promise.

But in this one case, I'm just so excited!

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0058.jpg
Box came from Micah at 3MI Racing. Don't Jenga near the address label! Damn kids.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0059.jpg
Saenz Rods

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0060.jpg
~519 grams, including bolts

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0061.jpg
Nice bolts. ARP L-19

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0064.jpg
134.5 mm rod length Photo doesn't show it well. But you can read it on the box a few photos up.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0062.jpg
Look at that parting line

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0063.jpg
Beautiful piece

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0074.jpg
JE, "Honey Badger" 99.75mm pistons. Developed by 3MI Racing and Maxwell Power Services.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0068.jpg
-18.2 cc chambers

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0071.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0072.jpg
Works of art.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0073.jpg
~394 grams

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0065.jpg
~107 gram, tool steel wrist pin. It's strangely heavy for how small it is. Dense.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0066.jpg
4.34mm (.170") wall

[Frank818]

This is a beauty!

So maybe it's better not use it and just keep in your garage on a shelf as a trophy or piece of art. lolll

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0076.jpg
OEM EJ205 75mm stoke P/N 12200AA240. Yep it's a de-stroker. Comes OE with the good crossdrilling for better oiling at high rpm.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0077.jpg
Weird coloring is from the nitriding process (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitriding) 3MI Racing had done to it.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0078.jpg
It's a beauty, too.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0079.jpg
And as promised. A Subaru EJ205 75mm stroke crankshaft next to a Cadillac 500, 4.304" stroke (~109.3mm) crankshaft. Banana for scale.

[longislandwrx]

Nice score.

Are they still offering this for $2k? I'm telling you people this is the 818 motor to have.


ps you can send me the 4 extra rods. k thx.

[metalmaker12]

Lol that comparison pic is funny, nice setup.

[nkw8181]

I want Popeye forearms! Lol

[nkw8181]

A little late on the Popeye I know. I do like the banana as your ref lol

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0091.jpg
Welded up some angle steel to make a base to roll the blast cabinet around the garage. I knew I'd propbably need a bit of space for my foot to balance myself which is why that "A" is in there.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0092.jpg
Designed it to hold a bucket under the dump.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0093.jpg
A bit of advice, don't take your salvage yards word that they "drained all the fluids" to mean that they drained all the fluids. Mine was full of 5 liters of oil.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0094.jpg
Installed a tray under the engine stand to deal with drips and leaks as I disassemble.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0095.jpg
More disassembly.

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0113.jpg
Ground off the heat shield stand-offs and casting flash from the exhaust manifolds. Porting will happen later.

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0128.jpg
Looking at the fitting of the 2.5i NA intake manifold.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0130.jpg
Reverse angle.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0121.jpg
Left side looking down.

Numerous issues came up with my 2006 D25 heads and the 2.5i NA manifold

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0131.jpg
The above is the right side head. Pistons 1 and 3. Notice the hole for the Camshaft Position Sensor is partially blocked by the manifold. Also the gasket locating pin is completely covered by the manifold. I had to pull the pin out to get the manifold to sit flush.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0124.jpg
The above is the left side. Pistons 2 and 4. Camshaft Position Sensor is partially blocked on this side also.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0122.jpg
Left side still. Gasket locating pin blocked on this side also. I removed the pin so the manifold would sit flush.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0127.jpg
Four of the eight bolt holes used to attached the manifold to the engine aren't lined up. These are the outermost holes. The above photo shows the misalignment. It's not a parallax issue. I'm shooting the cameras view straight down the hole. Notice the threads are partially blocked.

I didn't get a photo of it but it also looked like fuel injectors 1 and 2 would get close, if not touch, the AVCS solenoids when installed. I'll have to do a mock install and see.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0128.jpg
Looking at the fitting of the 2.5i NA intake manifold.

.

Hi Rasmus,
I have a intake off an 06 NA Ej25. I asked my buddies at TIC (Turn In Concepts) if I could use it instead of doing the TGV delete modification.
They told me it would be difficult. I believe the fuel injectors are different also.

Is there a way to clean you engine block to make it as clean as your intake without taking it apart?
Bob

[longislandwrx]

Would 8mm phenolics reduce the amount you need to grind?

[Rasmus]

They told me it would be difficult.

It's looking that way.


Would 8mm phenolics reduce the amount you need to grind?
It'd clear the gasket locator pins with an 8 mm spacer in there. I think you'd clear the left-head camshaft position sensor also. The right-head camshaft position sensor you'd probably still have to grind. I don't know about the injectors.

The mounting holes would still be misaligned.

[longislandwrx]

I had to b@stard file the heck out of my intake just to fit the composite TGV deletes. With the right file it goes super fast though.

I can't wait to assemble the motor.

edit:
haha censorship.

[Rasmus]

I had to b@stard file the heck out of my intake just to fit the composite TGV deletes. With the right file it goes super fast though. Good idea. That'll work easy. Only have 2-3 mm to file out. Looking at my photos again you can tell the holes aren't centered in the tab to start with.

Other issues with a 2.5i NA (Naturally Aspirated) intake:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/51a557ae-6384-4d31-8853-a81321b51937.jpg
Above is the 2006 WRX mainifold. Notice the angle the injectors are mounted.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/37b1284c-739b-4bd8-b11a-70469e290180.jpg
Now the 2.5i intake. Injector mounting angle is shallower. Both photos were shot with the camera flat on my work table. So it's not an issue of me holding the camera at an angle.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0146.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0147.jpg
Just millimeters of clearance, and I don't even have the fuel rails installed. I hypothesize that the injector mounting angle is the primary reason they have clearance issues with the AVCS solenoids. I'll have to think on this one. Sure I can add a thick spacer in there to make room, but I worry about what the injector is pointing at. Ideally, I'd want them pointed at the intake valves. If it targets the walls of the intake, I may have to rethink this whole thing.

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0150.jpg
Front lower control arms as received.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0152.jpg
Removed the casting flash and parting lines. Then baking soda blasted in the blast cabinet. Looking good.

[longislandwrx]

what about switching to side feeds?


btw is your workbench 1/4 plate steel? remind me not to stop by on moving day lol.

[nkw8181]

Looking good looking good!

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0154.jpg
Front knuckles and hubs as received.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0155.jpg
I don't trust that the bearings haven't been contaminated by rust/dirt so I'm gonna replace them. The hubs are looking crusty but I think I can salvage them.

[longislandwrx]

Adios dust shield tabs?

[Rasmus]

what about switching to side feeds?
THAT....

is a good idea. I'll look into it.



is your workbench 1/4 plate steel?
3/16". Same thickness I use on the Cadillac frame.


Adios dust shield tabs?
I'd considered this, but those tabs are an excellent place to mount brake ducts for a twice-a-year track day. I think 1 of the 3 can definitely come off though.

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0161.jpg
Suspended my rusty hubs into an old-school anti-rust system (https://www.google.com/search?q=rust+electrolysis). 5 gallons of water 5 tablespoons of Sodium Carbonate (i.e. washing soda) and a battery charger. The hubs are the cathode and the rebar is the anode.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0162.jpg
Turned it on and in 60 seconds you can see the hydrogen bubbles forming.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0163.jpg
After only one hour. Look at all that rust removed that now floats on the surface.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0170.jpg
After 6 hours.

[Xusia]

Wow. I can't wait to see the part!

[longislandwrx]

25232

why so many pieces of rebar, are they wired together under water?

[Rasmus]

25232

why so many pieces of rebar, are they wired together under water?
The rebar is all weld together to sit in the bucket just right. There's a cross-bar spanning the bottom of the bucket welded the two sets of rebar you see above the water. I'll take it out and take a picture. The whole thing acts as one anode.

[Scargo]

Great stuff! I have the same intake that I have put a lot of time into porting, matching and beautifying. I cut away all the extraneous stuff and intend to weld a bridging mounting bracket for the fuel rails. I've not seen any fitment issues so far besides the spring-pins, but I'm not quite as far along as you and have only had it on a non DAVCS-headed engine mockup, so I wasn't aware of the solenoid interference issue.
I just looked at my current DAVCS motor, with Boomba fuel rails and no spacers, and to my calibrated eyeball (good to 5 BCH), I thought stuff might clear, as-is. If anything, it looked like some minor grinding on the solenoid bracket and possibly some judicious clearancing would do the trick. I cannot say that I can point to a motor where the intake was used in combo with solenoids sitting there. I do not intend to use any spacers. Again, this was with Boomba fuel rails. Worst case? Fill in and re-machine the injector holes?

[Rasmus]

Fill in and re-machine the injector holes? Good idea. I'll keep that on the list of things to consider.

Just for you LongIsland:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0172.jpg
There's my anode. Notice how the sections submerged below the water/sodium-carbonate are covered in rust. That's the rust from my hubs. It's more like a rust foam. Just wipe it off with a paper towel and the anode's ready to go again.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0173.jpg
After I take them out I hit them with acetone immediately to prevent surface rust from starting on exposure to air. Then five minutes with a wire wheel and they look like this. Put the rotor hat one of them was mated to next to them. Kind of a before/after.

[RM1SepEx]

very nice I use eastwood's rust products like www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-fast-etch.html

I used it by spraying surfaces and soaking bolts etc.. It leaves a slight zinc phosphate layer on the surface

[longislandwrx]

That is awesome. How long did you end up leaving it? I can't wait to see the knucks.

[Rasmus]

very nice I use eastwood's rust products like www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-fast-etch.html

I used it by spraying surfaces and soaking bolts etc.. It leaves a slight zinc phosphate layer on the surface

Isn't that stuff just phosphoric acid? If it is, it's another good way to knock out surface rust.


That is awesome. How long did you end up leaving it? I can't wait to see the knucks.
Left 'em overnight. Rotated 'em twice. The work(cathode) needs line-of-site to the anode. Rotating helps it "see" all the rust spots. You don't have to leave it over-night. You can kind of tell when it's ready to be rotated/removed when the hydrogen bubbling slows down. Some parts will be ready in about an hour. Great-gran-pappys plow you pulled in out of the south-40 after 70 years in the muck, might need two overnight dips with a light scrubbing in between.

[Frank818]

Pretty nice stuff here!!!

[RM1SepEx]

Isn't that stuff just phosphoric acid? If it is, it's another good way to knock out surface rust.

yes, low % solution, also slows down activity when "done" leaves a nice dull finish the buffs up really nicely. Worked awesome on the bolts and I use as a prep for any bare steel to be painted. treat, neutralize, dry, eastwood "pre" paint prep then paint, POR 15 etc...

And yes, sometime a second run at the rust after abrasion helps finish the job

Rasmus, you do nice work!

[fateo66]

Good idea. That'll work easy. Only have 2-3 mm to file out. Looking at my photos again you can tell the holes aren't centered in the tab to start with.

Other issues with a 2.5i NA (Naturally Aspirated) intake:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/51a557ae-6384-4d31-8853-a81321b51937.jpg
Above is the 2006 WRX mainifold. Notice the angle the injectors are mounted.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/37b1284c-739b-4bd8-b11a-70469e290180.jpg
Now the 2.5i intake. Injector mounting angle is shallower. Both photos were shot with the camera flat on my work table. So it's not an issue of me holding the camera at an angle.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0146.jpg
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0147.jpg
Just millimeters of clearance, and I don't even have the fuel rails installed. I hypothesize that the injector mounting angle is the primary reason they have clearance issues with the AVCS solenoids. I'll have to think on this one. Sure I can add a thick spacer in there to make room, but I worry about what the injector is pointing at. Ideally, I'd want them pointed at the intake valves. If it targets the walls of the intake, I may have to rethink this whole thing.


In order for the 2.5I manifold to clear any head with an AVCS solenoid you will need a 5/8" or 16mm phenolic spacer. Also if you haven't noticed yet the 2.5I manifolds have a different fuel rail bolt style compared to WRX or STI topfeeds. If you need help sourcing either the spacers or some billet rails for the 2.5I manifold let me know.

[Rasmus]

http://i.imgur.com/O7rp2yI.jpg
Factory Five called me yesterday. They wanted money.

So I sent them balance I owe. My 818R should arrive in the next 2-4 weeks.

The only options I ordered were:
Chassis Powder Coat, black (only option)
Kirkey Intermediate Road Race seats and covers, black, count 2
Simpson Racing 5 point harness', black, count 2

[longislandwrx]

pay up sucka! get those 1/8" drill bits ready.

[Brando]

I'm looking forward to this thread taking flight. Rasmus, it's meant as a compliment when i say you remind me of a mad scientist.

[longislandwrx]

I'm looking forward to this thread taking flight. Rasmus, it's meant as a compliment when i say you remind me of a mad scientist.

haha yup, I expected his order list to be more like:



The only options I ordered were:
Chassis Powder Coat, black (only option)
Flux Capacitor, count 1
Kirkey Intermediate Road Race seats and covers, black, count 2
Simpson Racing 5 point harness', black, count 2
Knight Industries Two Thousand, count 1

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0260.jpg
Thanks fellas. I tried to order a Flux Capacitor but they were on back order. I'll try again in the future.

[Frank818]

Why don't you just go back to the future to get it?
Oh that's right, you don't have the flux in the first place so you can't go. loll

[flynntuna]

GREAT SCOTT!!! :eek:

[David Hodgkins]

I'm looking forward to this thread taking flight. Rasmus, it's meant as a compliment when i say you remind me of a mad scientist.

As long as he's no Rocket Scientist!

BTW that's joke that the old time forum members will get...

:)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

25938
25939
I am running a FluxDrive 7 motor controller in my 818Se.
I do have 90 kilojoule 75 kilowatts Flux Capacitor.
You need 1.21 gigawatts for time travel at 88 mph.
Maybe I just need more speed.
I'm giving her all she's got, Captain!
Bob

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0270.jpg
Honing Plate just arrived. AKA Torque Plate.

[Scargo]

Cool. Can you do a before and after measurement on one side or one cylinder? I have a motor with 17K on it that I'm building for the 818. I measured it, then lightly honed/deglazed it without the plate. All of the surfaces honed nicely. I remeasured it and it still is within specs (marginally). I'm putting fully coated CP pistons in it. They seemed spot-on dimensionally, even with the coating. We'll see how it works. It is a race motor. :p

[Rasmus]

Cool. Can you do a before and after measurement on one side or one cylinder?
I'll give it the ol' college try. I'm gonna have a machine shop do mine, since my pistons are slightly over bore. 99.5mm to a whopping 99.75mm. MONSTER OVER BORE!

[Frank818]

since my pistons are slightly over bore. 99.5mm to a whopping 99.75mm. MONSTER OVER BORE!

LOLLLLL!!!!! That is equal to the human's biggest hair. Man you'll get so much more torque with that over bore!

[Rasmus]

That is equal to the human's biggest hair. Man you'll get so much more torque with that over bore!

Just wait 'til I put the NOS stickers on! Much torque. Fast very.

[longislandwrx]

26114

[Mechie3]

HAHAHA! Doge!

[Rasmus]

Actually laughing at that image, LongIsland. Much funny.

[apexanimal]

brilliant!

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0281.jpg
Been working on the rear spindles, knuckles, and brake assemblies. Rusty, crusty.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0288.jpg
This BOLT! I never understood why the wetter/colder parts of the world complained about this bolt. Then I bought this setup from the North East United States...

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0289.jpg
**** it with a cactus!

[Frank818]

Do you remove grease first or do you do some kind of washing before you electrify them in water?

[Rasmus]

Do you remove grease first or do you do some kind of washing before you electrify them in water?
Two things to always keep in mind with rust electrolysis (https://www.google.com/search?q=rust+electrolysis):
1. The negative terminal (black) must go on the work. Unless you want your part to get rustier.
2. The process works by line-of-sight. If your rusty area is covered in grease and can't see the anode it won't de-rust. I usually wipe off any heavy grease areas with a shop rag. Not to "clean" just to expose enough of the rust to to let the process work. I wire brush the crustys off. The flaky stuff. Think: 30 second, high schooler effort. Then dunk.

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0291.jpg
It amazes me how well and easy this rust electrolysis process performs. The above rear knuckle has been cathodizing for about 6 hours. All those rusty bits are just business card to postage stamp size surface flakes now. 95% of it came off with a 2 minute wire brushing and a garden hosing. Missed a few areas so I realigned the part and dunked it for another session. Line-of-sight issue. The anode got super rusty funky for session one.

And that's the same water and washing soda solution with which I started. I had to add a pint of water or so due to evaporation but the solution doesn't go bad. You just keep reusing it until the wife threatens to SuperFund the garage if you don't change it out.

[Frank818]

Do you really need to use a metal container or a 5-gal plastic one would work?

[Rasmus]

Do you really need to use a metal container or a 5-gal plastic one would work?

My current set up sits in a 5 gallon plastic bucket. The anode must be steel/iron. So you could use a steel bucket and the whole bucket could be the anode. Problem is the more anode you've got the larger your power supply will need to be.

http://www.renthire.com/RHI/hirecompany_display/RSVP/img059.jpg
I would love to have a 15 gallon plastic tub, but I just make due with the 5 gallon. Plus I can pickup the 5'er when it's full of water. I'd need help moving 15 gallons of water and the wife would be none to thrilled if I she was the one doing the helping.

[Greg G]

I would love to have a 15 gallon plastic tub, but I just make due with the 5 gallon. Plus I can pickup the 5'er when it's full of water. I'd need help moving 15 gallons of water and the wife would be none to thrilled if I she was the one doing the helping.

How about something like this?

55 gallon plastic barrel:
http://bloomington.craigslist.org/mat/4334407788.html

You could put it on a wheeled dolly, cut the sides down to the desired height/volume, and you are set!

[longislandwrx]

http://www.amsperformance.com/cart/AMS/Wilwood-WRX-STi-Lightweight-Brake-Kit-Front.html

saw that and thought of you 15" fitment.

[Rasmus]

How about something like this?
You could put it on a wheeled dolly, cut the sides down to the desired height/volume, and you are set!
Brilliant idea! Could you pick me one up from that CL ad and drop it off at my place. Pay you the price you get it for; I'll even give you $5 extra for gas.


saw that and thought of you 15" fitment.
My current thought is to use a modified version of the 12" Wilwood kit offered by FFR for the front of my rollerskate.

http://www.wilwood.com/Images/ROTORS/Rotor%20Photos-Small/GT-36-Curved-Vane-Rotor-sm.jpg
Instead of the 12" Rotor No: 160-8495 (http://www.wilwood.com/Rotors/RotorProd.aspx?itemno=160-8495) costing $164.93 MSRP

http://www.wilwood.com/Images/ROTORS/Rotor%20Photos-Small/Ultralite-32-Vane-Rotor-810-sm.jpg
I'm looking at using the 12.19" Rotor No: 160-0277 (http://www.wilwood.com/Rotors/RotorProd.aspx?itemno=160-0277) costing $35.63 MSRP

Let that price difference sink in: $330 vs $72 for full front replacement. Track days eat rotors. It looks like Wilwoods caliper adapter can easily be spaced out the additional .095 inches. But I don't know if that'll make the caliper too close to a 15" wheel.

Plus if I get really crazy I could have a lightweight 12.19" setup dedicated just to autocross:

http://www.wilwood.com/Images/ROTORS/Rotor%20Photos-Small/Ulltralite-32-Vane-Rotor-Drilled-sm.jpg
Rotor No: 160-5865 (http://www.wilwood.com/Rotors/RotorProd.aspx?itemno=160-5865) or,

http://www.wilwood.com/Images/ROTORS/Rotor%20Photos-Small/Ultralite-32-Vane-Scalloped-Rotor-sm.jpg
Rotor No: 160-8136 (http://www.wilwood.com/Rotors/RotorProd.aspx?itemno=160-8136)

[longislandwrx]

That's the nice thing about Wilwood, they list all the components in the "kit" I thought about nixing the slotted rotors for solid ones, I didn't realize the cost savings would be so substantial!

on the 13.06 rotors you only save $15 each, but that's still $60 on all 4.

[Racebrewer]

My current thought is to use a modified version of the 12" Wilwood kit offered by FFR for the front of my rollerskate.

http://www.wilwood.com/Images/ROTORS/Rotor%20Photos-Small/GT-36-Curved-Vane-Rotor-sm.jpg
Instead of the 12" Rotor No: 160-8495 (http://www.wilwood.com/Rotors/RotorProd.aspx?itemno=160-8495) costing $164.93 MSRP

http://www.wilwood.com/Images/ROTORS/Rotor%20Photos-Small/Ultralite-32-Vane-Rotor-810-sm.jpg
I'm looking at using the 12.19" Rotor No: 160-0277 (http://www.wilwood.com/Rotors/RotorProd.aspx?itemno=160-0277) costing $35.63 MSRP

Let that price difference sink in: $330 vs $72 for full front replacement. Track days eat rotors. It looks like Wilwoods caliper adapter can easily be spaced out the additional .095 inches. But I don't know if that'll make the caliper too close to a 15" wheel.


Great idea!!!

How about just cutting the bigger disks down to 12" on a lathe? That's the kind of job that can be bought for a couple six-packs.

John

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0292.jpg
Here's a better before/after shot. After pulling the part out I wire brushed it down for 5 minutes then misted it with WD-40, to Displace the Water. Parts come out dull charcoal black. I hypothesize the black is the "good rust", aka magnetite. Magnetite is Fe3O4. Red rust (or “hematite”) is Fe2O3. Unlike red rust, black rust is protective and prevents corrosion. Also, things bond better to magnetite than bare iron (for example, polymerized fat). Black rust is not sufficient by itself to protect cast iron from corrosion. Also, it’s easily removed.

[Scargo]

Where do I get this "polymerized fat"? What colors does it come in? Nice looking part, BTW.

[Greg G]

Brilliant idea! Could you pick me one up from that CL ad and drop it off at my place. Pay you the price you get it for; I'll even give you $5 extra for gas.


$5? Naw, you buy the beers and we are even ;)

[Rasmus]

Well I dun did it.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0293.jpg
Trying to press out the long bolt from the Left Rear Knuckle I cracked it. Not the bolt. The knuckle. That long bolt is IN THERE. Almost like it was welded.

Anyone got a extra one they'd be willing to sell?

[Rasmus]

Where do I get this "polymerized fat"? What colors does it come in? Nice looking part, BTW.
Comes in blackish brown. You coat the part in motor oil and bake it at 450F for about an hour. No really. It's like seasoning a cast iron pan, except you're seasoning a cast iron car part.

[Greg G]

Holy crap!

[metalmaker12]

Use pb blast and a little heat carefully next time, I will check, I might have one. Btw nice job on cleaning them up, pretty cool way to do it.

[Greg G]

Shall I drop off one of those plastic barrels to your house too while I am on my way to Vegas? lol ROADTRIP!

[Rasmus]

Use pb blast and a little heat carefully next time, I will check, I might have one. Btw nice job on cleaning them up, pretty cool way to do it.

Thanks for checking.

And I actually did heat it up with a MAP gas torch just before I started pressing. Heated up each hole for about 1 minute per. I'd also PB blaster'ed it at least 5 times prior to using the press.


Shall I drop off one of those plastic barrels to your house too while I am on my way to Vegas? lol ROADTRIP!
See you when you get here. ;) And like I ask all people who come to visit me in Vegas, "What hotel you staying at?"

[metros]

Nice find out those rotor rings. I'm also planning on using the wilwood set up. I'm going to try to order that kit with the cheaper blank rotor faces and spare rings to keep in the garage. Should be a substantial savings for a lot of us.

[Greg G]

See you when you get here. ;) And like I ask all people who come to visit me in Vegas, "What hotel you staying at?"

That would be the "No-Tell Motel" on 69th Street ;)

[FFRSpec72]

I bet those bearings are in great shape after all that cleaning !

[Rasmus]

I bet those bearings are in great shape after all that cleaning !
http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0294.jpg
Good mind on you. Immersing the bearings and races in water for 12+ hours would have been a bad idea.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Rasmus
Do you have any advice on removing ABS sensors from rusty spindles?

To get the link bolts out of the spindles I cut between the arm and the spindle. Then used a pneumatic hammer from harbor freight to drive it out.
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-impact-hammer-kit-92037.html
The hard part is getting the bolt out of the lateral link arms, if you are trying to save the bushing.

Did you have any trouble getting the ball joint out of the front spindles?
Bob

[Scargo]

I think you blew it up with heating. It was the antisocial isotropic thermal expansion behavior of NBR. :p Hell, it's a guess. I see that NBR has a CTE 20 times that of iron.

[Rasmus]

Hey Rasmus
Do you have any advice on removing ABS sensors from rusty spindles?

Did you have any trouble getting the ball joint out of the front spindles?
Bob

On the ABS sensors I just hit 'em with PB Blaster then after 2 hours reclocked the shoulder tab with a small pry bar ~30 degrees. I didn't pry up on the shoulder tab, just forced it sideways to break the rust bonds. I used a blunt tool to press the sensor out from the "back" side while twisting the sensor top by hand.

I did have trouble with the ball joints. I clamped the knuckle down to my table then reattached a control arm to the ball. BFH to the arm and eventually they came out. I got the them both out without tearing the boots but the cups were so rusted I didn't feel safe reusing them. I've got them in the shed if you want a picture.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

On the ABS sensors I just hit 'em with PB Blaster then after 2 hours reclocked the shoulder tab with a small pry bar ~30 degrees. I didn't pry up on the shoulder tab, just forced it sideways to break the rust bonds. I used a blunt tool to press the sensor out from the "back" side while twisting the sensor top by hand.

I did have trouble with the ball joints. I clamped the knuckle down to my table then reattached a control arm to the ball. BFH to the arm and eventually they came out. I got the them both out without tearing the boots but the cups were so rusted I didn't feel safe reusing them. I've got them in the shed if you want a picture.

I've soaked my ABS sensors many times and still no movement. Good Idea to press the rears out but you can't do that on the fronts.

The front ball joints on the 818 support the weight of the of the car as compared to the WRX were it is just a carrier joint. Put some quality new ones in. I used MOOG K9513 about $25 each from Rock Auto.
Bob

[Frank818]

I did have trouble with the ball joints. I clamped the knuckle down to my table then reattached a control arm to the ball. BFH to the arm and eventually they came out. I got the them both out without tearing the boots but the cups were so rusted I didn't feel safe reusing them.

That seems to be common.
I'll have to go through that as I will replace my ball joints for new ones. For the price of them, it would be much more expensive to remove the parts after installation in order to change the balls then.

[FFRSpec72]

I love the e-brake setup, what a freaking pain to disassemble and assemble. Pressing the bearing out of the rear hubs was a pain because of the backing plate and ebrake setup.

[Rasmus]

While working on all that other stuff over the weekend I finally finished a large upgrade to the garage.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0279.jpg
I've owned epoxy floors before. Though nice it never really helped with my problem areas. The cracks. Even with epoxy floors I would spent 40% of the time cleaning the floors and 60% cleaning the cracks.


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0280.jpg
And with my all the metal shavings, grinding dust (steel, iron, aluminum), the grinding discs and flap wheels (aluminum oxide), paint dust, and just plain desert dust I can literally fill up my cracks. Especially around the work bench.


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0290.jpg
So with 200' of 5/8" diameter closed cell foam backer rod (think: solid nerf dart material)


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0296.jpg
And more tubes of concrete and masonry self-leveling stuff than I care to admit using, I filled my cracks in. Once it fully cures it should be easy to broom up all my messes. I'll no longer have to worry about the cracks swallowing up nuts, rivet mandrels, and other tiny parts.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

When I come for a Vegas visit, Can I stay in your garage?

[Rasmus]

When I come for a Vegas visit, Can I stay in your garage?

You sure can. Here's the number to the Your Garage Hotel and Casino: (800) 351-7400. Let me know when you're in town and I'll come to meet you for dinner. :D

[longislandwrx]

I was at the Quad last year, the auto collection is pretty impressive.

Hopefully will get to come back this summer.

[Rasmus]

Got to looking at the rear brake backing plate and noticed a weird bulge between the two pieces of metal that make up the part. Saw rust in there.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0297.jpg
I couldn't get it out with an awl or junky screwdriver so I cut it open and all that came out.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0298.jpg
While welding the backing plate back together I noticed the stands on which the parking brake pads ride, yielded to simple finger nail pressure. So I stopped the cracks by drilling the ends with a 1/8" bit. Fabbed up new tops for the stands out of the dust shield I removed, and welded them on. This is the thinnest metal I've ever welded: 18ga. Had to stitch-weld almost everything.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0301.jpg
What's better than having to do an unforeseen repair to a part you don't normally think about? Having to do the exact same repair to the part on the other side.

[Frank818]

Interesting.
And I see you are also a metal maker, just like... Metalmaker. :)
You are also a metal de-ruster! lolll

[AZPete]

I soaked my rear backing plates in a rust remover and there was nearly nothing left! I bought new plates from the $ubaru dealer . . . at about the same price as a welding class, welder, supplies and beer. You asked "what's worse" but buying new is.

[Rasmus]

I considered my local Subaru dealer but I looked at the price for two and thought I should give repairing them a try.

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0302.jpg
Got to do today what I wanted to do yesterday. Repack bearings! Red Line Synthetic CV-2 Grease. My original thought was to just install all new bearings; after inspecting the races and rollers all looked good. No scoring, pitting, or overheated discoloring (blue) on any. Plus the price of new made me think that investing in some tools and doing it myself was worth it.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0304.jpg
The rear bearings are about 3x as hard to repack and clean than the fronts. The inner race is extra long making it so I couldn't use my repacker tool. Did it by hand. Also painted the front knuckles and the backs of all four hubs to prevent rust and make cleaning easier in the future.

[Rasmus]

While waiting for paint to cure for 24 hours (as per the directions) on the front knuckles before pressing the bearings back in...

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0312.jpg
I decided to open up the steering rack. I had to make this custom tool to get the aluminum cap off the quill area.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0313.jpg
Once constructed it only took one wack with a 5 lb dead blow to loosen it. I tried using a drift and hammer but it just dented the aluminum without loosing it.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0316.jpg
Since the 818 is gonna be light I decided to fully depower the rack. So I removed and welded up the holes that fed high pressure hydraulic fluid to the two-way piston. See the two red arrows. I cut off the hydraulic piston diaphragm (?) that separates the two sides of the piston. Pink Arrow. Also welding up the quill in six spots. Three of the plugs welds are pointed to with three red arrows. The other three plug welds are on the other side. I didn't know this but the quill in a hydraulic power steering rack has a bit of play it in. It's that play that allows the hydraulic valving to work. But if you depower it without welding up the quill that play will turn into slop and you'll have a dead spot every time you change direction or make a correction.

[Frank818]

I didn't know this but the quill in a hydraulic power steering rack has a bit of play it in. It's that play that allows the hydraulic valving to work. But if you depower it without welding up the quill that play will turn into slop and you'll have a dead spot every time you change direction or make a correction.

I wonder if Erik has that play on his. I'm sure he went through what you just did.

[longislandwrx]

Inner ties look great, did they go in your bucket of doom or just get blasted?

[Rasmus]

Bucket-o-DOOM!

[wleehendrick]

I wonder if Erik has that play on his. I'm sure he went through what you just did.

IIRC, Erik commented that he just looped the lines on the rack; he did not wedl the quill. He said the steering is great, as good or better than his Roadster with a custom rack. But if you're a perfectionist...

[RM1SepEx]

check the depowering the rack thread...

This rack uses a torsion bar that twists to allow the fluid to flow, much better system than my depowered Miata racks, they have a dead spot. Drive it for a few days and you get used to it.

MetalMaker welded one for me, so I have both. I'll be able to do some comparison this spring

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0325.jpg
Dealt with a boost leak on the station wagon. One of my old hot rodding modifications cracked, and air was escaping out the manifold. Had to pull the intake manifold strip the wiring and fuel line then weld it back up. Chore!

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0324.jpg
Here's a better view of how I welded up the steering rack quill.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0320.jpg
Front bearings before seating. 3.25 mm between the inner race and the hub. There was no play.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0321.jpg
Seating the bearings how the FSM reads. Well kind of how the FSM reads to do it.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0322.jpg
Front bearing after seating. ~1.90 mm. (+/-0.03) measurement varied depending on how I breathed.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0323.jpg
Front Knuckle/Hubs done and in the shed. Also a preview of further modifications to the steering rack.

[Scargo]

It's satisfying for me just to follow along and see what you're accomplishing. Thanks for sharing.

[longislandwrx]

wow. all ports welded and smoothed... very cool.

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0333.jpg
Still need to put the big bellows clamps on so the bellows don't pop off but it feels good to get the rack done. Greased her with Red Line Synthetic CV-2 Grease.It's depowered with all former hydraulic ports shaved/filled. Not showcar quality, but for racing it looks good.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0334.jpg
If you follow my build you will have been seeing alot (http://i.imgur.com/GZkzs.jpg) of satin black and aluminum. One day it'll change to satin black and aluminum-oxide. Fancy.

[Rasmus]

Clamped up the bellows and the rack's in the shed.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0336.jpg
Pulled the rear calipers. Rough. Looks like a wheel sheared off in my donor's demise.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0337.jpg
Out of the blast cabinet (Aluminum Oxide Media)

[longislandwrx]

What's the weight?!?! out of curiosity I see you left the nub... is it needed?

[Rasmus]

Weight of the rear calipers? What nub? I'm so confused.

[longislandwrx]

26493

that heavyweight. since weight reduction is your religion I figured it would be gone. lol

what's the weight of the modified rack?

[Rasmus]

Ohh. That makes more sense. Modified rack: 5.3 kg (+/- 0.1 kg). Had to use my inaccurate scale; my accurate scale only goes up to 5,000 grams. The trick with weight reduction effectiveness is doing before/after measurements. That way you'll know if all that time you spent lightening something is worth the time invested. I've learned that lightening aluminum parts is low reward for the amount of time you spend. But if you can lighten, replace, or remove steel/iron parts you get a bigger reward. In this instance I was looking at removing the steel plugs I would have used to plug all those unused hydraulic line holes. Someone without easy access to welding aluminum could probably do what I did to the steering rack's cast aluminum section with JB Weld. I'd estimate it'd only be about 30 grams heavier than what I did if you didn't shave any of the ports at all.

I left the nub because I honestly didn't know it's purpose. I didn't want to shave it off, only to screw myself over in 3 months time having to weld something back on. Looking at the size of the nub it probably clocks in at 2 grams.

[Frank818]

Looking at the size of the nub it probably clocks in at 2 grams.

Which is exactly what will make you lose on the track. :)

I learned something seeing you shaving off weight everywhere (except out of your own body loll). I didn't think of doing any of that myself, but now I figure, since I build every part of the car, why keep unused parts or portions of parts and that if I shave off a little on every part, I could end up saving 20, 50, 100lbs+, who knows. And the effort would be minimal, I mean I won't spend 3 days removing half a pound. It's the "while I'm there, why not doing it" thing.

[Rasmus]

It's the "while I'm there, why not doing it" thing.

It's like you're in my garage reading my thoughts.
I could button this part up now but if I spent an extra 30 minutes (a.k.a. 3 hours real world time) I could lighten this part by 150 grams. Better get to it.

[longislandwrx]

if I spent an extra 30 minutes (a.k.a. 3 hours real world time)


HA I thought I was the only one with that internal clock mismatch...

Wife: "Can you come in soon?"
Me: "Sure just need 20 minutes to finish this"
Wife: :rolleyes:
Clock: 1:15 later
Me: "Wow that went faster than I expected"
Wife: :mad:

[Frank818]

looolllllllll :)

Well, it's the same as when the wife is saying she's got only 20mins left of shopping!

[Rasmus]

Been de-rusting and painting small brackets and parts over the last two days. Nothing worthy to take a picture. One example: the steel brackets that holds the parking brake cable to the trailing arm. Boring.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0343.jpg
I did disassemble the OEM alternator to clean it and service the bearings if needed.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0356.jpg
Put it back together. It was a bit of a struggle getting the rotor to drop back into the housing. With the brushes fully extended they prevented it from dropping back in. Eventually ended up holding back the two brushes with bits of bent welding wire. Once the rotor dropped in place I could pull the wire out with plyers and the brushes (hopefully) snapped into place.

[metalmaker12]

HA I thought I was the only one with that internal clock mismatch...

Wife: "Can you come in soon?"
Me: "Sure just need 20 minutes to finish this"
Wife: :rolleyes:
Clock: 1:15 later
Me: "Wow that went faster than I expected"
Wife: :mad:


Lol spot on, this is daily for me

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Put it back together. It was a bit of a struggle getting the rotor to drop back into the housing. With the brushes fully extended they prevented it from dropping back in. Eventually ended up holding back the two brushes with bits of bent welding wire. Once the rotor dropped in place I could pull the wire out with plyers and the brushes (hopefully) snapped into place.

Did you know there is a little hole in the back to put a pin in. it holds the brushes back while you assemble. Similar to the timing belt tensioner.
Bob

[Rasmus]

Did you know there is a little hole in the back to put a pin in. it holds the brushes back while you assemble. Similar to the timing belt tensioner.
Bob
Do you know how much easier it would have been had I known this!? Wait... Hold on... the wrenching police are in my garage, looking to issue a summons...

[longislandwrx]

Taking a second look, I can't believe how much cleaner that rack is than factory... I forgot about the extra bolts as well that you removed.


26572

[STiPWRD]

Taking a second look, I can't believe how much cleaner that rack is than factory... I forgot about the extra bolts as well that you removed.
26572
Speaking of removing those bolts, did you have to fill in any holes with aluminum welds or did you just grind off the extra material?

[Rasmus]

...did you have to fill in any holes with aluminum welds or did you just grind off the extra material?
Both. Ground off the ports. Plug welded the four holes with aluminum.

You could grind off the ports and fill the four holes with JB Weld. The quill area doesn't have to hold pressure anymore so JB would work just fine keeping the dirt out.

[STiPWRD]

Both. Ground off the ports. Plug welded the four holes with aluminum.
You could grind off the ports and fill the four holes with JB Weld. The quill area doesn't have to hold pressure anymore so JB would work just fine keeping the dirt out.
Cool thanks!

[K3LAG]

Put it back together. It was a bit of a struggle getting the rotor to drop back into the housing. With the brushes fully extended they prevented it from dropping back in. Eventually ended up holding back the two brushes with bits of bent welding wire. Once the rotor dropped in place I could pull the wire out with plyers and the brushes (hopefully) snapped into place.

There is a little hole in the back case of the alternator. You can use a small allen wrench or other pin to hold the brushes back to put it back together. Press the brushes in while inserting the pin, you have to push them further than you might think. Once you have the rotor in, pull the pin and voila! I know this because I fought with mine for an hour to get it back in before I figured it out.

Larry

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0358.jpg
Pulled the starter out of the shed.


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0374.jpg
Cleaned and painted, then tested it. Probably should have done that the other way round.


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0375.jpg
Painted a few other items. Namely the rear brake backing plates. The texture visible on the left one is the pitting from the rust. The one on the right has the same; cameras not picking it up. I know how the water got into the backing plates so I'm gonna block up the waters access while leaving an exit. Details later.


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0386.jpg
Continued disassembly of the engine. Pulled off the timing sprockets, oil pump, and...


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0380.jpg
the water pump. Looks like this was a replacement. I didn't clean it; that's how it came off the motor. Wish I knew how to look up the date of manufacture of the water pump. Might just reuse this guy.


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0385.jpg
Cam bearing saddles and AVCS

[Greg G]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0375.jpg


OK, the sign on the wall requires an explanation please! This outta be a hoot!

[Rasmus]

World War II Era American Propaganda Posters!. And you thought the Germans had all the good propaganda?

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0387.jpg
Found them in the Library of Congress archives. I liked the look of this one.


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0388.jpg
Dying for your country's great and all, but it's so much better if you die a virgin.


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0391.jpg
Benjamin Franklin would be so proud.


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0390.jpg
This ones my favorite. Its one of a series. But this one had the-girl-next-door instead of a 40's era streetwalker stereotype. There's text in red at the very bottom that the Library of Congress archive didn't capture well. It read's "You can't fight the Axis if you get VD". If you have sex, the Nazis win. Keep it in your pants for Uncle Sam.

[Greg G]

LMFAO! That is the best!

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0392.jpg
Heads came off today.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0393.jpg
Organizing what came off and from where.

[icky]

and all the buckets in a bag... not going to be fun remembering where they all went.

[Rasmus]

and all the buckets in a bag... not going to be fun remembering where they all went.
All valves and cam's will be removed and replaced with different ones. Thus the buckets are all in one bag. Some of them might even be the correct thickness for the new cams and valves, so I kept them all. I promised not to show parts I haven't installed or worked on so it hasn't' come up in my build thread.

[Scargo]

I mentioned this (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12205-FFRSpec72-818R-Build-Seattle-WA&p=141709&viewfull=1#post141709)(with a picture) on FFRSpec72's build thread. You might want to get a Subaru water pump PN 21111AA026 as it will perform better than those with stamped vanes or paddles.

Not sure if my EJ257 DAVCS head buckets will fit, but I'd be happy to help out if I can. I have a lot of buckets and they're not cheap! I know tipping the valve stems to get there or get close is common. Not sure how much of a pain that is. My machine shop did that for me when they did a valve job, but I still required quite a few new buckets. My last heads were totally set up for me with the 272 cams.
That motor looks like it was a two pack a day smoker.

[Rasmus]

It probably won't make any difference to how your stock engine cools, but the Subaru water pump PN 21111AA026 performs better than the Gates pump or others with the "open paddle wheel" design as is the pump on the right in the picture.
26632

Thanks for reminding me. I'd forgotten that water pump existed.

And Scargo I will take you up on the used shim-less buckets. Even if it's only one or two. I have to get to that point though. If I recall correctly shimming out the cams is second to last step before putting the valve covers on.

[Scargo]

You could say that. I honestly don't know the procedure my guy used, but head work is his specialty. They were slightly used heads (was really lucky to find DAVCS heads with 4K miles on them). When he adjusted the lash, I don't know if he bolted the heads up to anything or not. He had it all together at one point; I just have to take it apart enough to get the head bolts in.

[icky]

Thanks for reminding me. I'd forgotten that water pump existed.

And Scargo I will take you up on the used shim-less buckets. Even if it's only one or two. I have to get to that point though. If I recall correctly shimming out the cams is second to last step before putting the valve covers on.

Sound about right, since you're probably going to need a lot of buckets, find a subaru guy in your area to trade with instead of buying new ones or worse, shaving metal off the valve stems into your freshly applied assembly lube! Make friends with people that build motors and they will be happy to help you out. Also In a pinch, you grind the bottom of the buckets not valves, cheaper replacement and you can do it away from a motor that is being assembled but it is still advised to just find the right buckets from the beginning.

[Rasmus]

...it is still advised to just find the right buckets from the beginning.
That's the route I'm going. Just going to get the correct buckets the first time.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_1755.jpg
Split the case today. And I'm happy to report not a single screwdriver, chisel, or wedge-shaped tool was used.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_1757.jpg
I cut the heads off two old case bolts I had from another block. Rounded off the cuts. Then stuck those into the wristpins, just far not to extend out the other end of the wrist pin. Used two small scraps of aluminum to protect the threads on the wrist pin access hole. Then just put a 22mm 1/2" drive socket on the crank pulley bolt and pull 'til the case splits.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_1765.jpg
Do the same on the other side. Then repeat and you'll walk the case off the hollow locating dowels.

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0394.jpg
Don't get to far because you still need to get the wrist pins out. Pistons come out the top. It's easier just to pull (actually push) all four wrist pins first with a case flip inbetween. Then pull a case half off with the pistons still stuck inside.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0395.jpg
Really starting to look like the previous owner of this block did not like changing the oil.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0396.jpg
Pistons 1 and 3 had heavy carbon build ups.

[longislandwrx]

impressive that your o rings all stuck to the same side.

[RM1SepEx]

Any idea how many miles on that 2.5L donor motor? The photos don't look that bad to my eye for a 100,000 mile plus motor...

[Rasmus]

impressive that your o rings all stuck to the same side.
And there's been no manipulating of the o-rings for a "pretty picture". I would never pose my parts or hide my mistakes though carefully selected camera angles. This build is all about truth. Raw unedited truth. And justice. It's a bit about justice. And freedom. Freedom, to be who we to be. To do what we want to do. A stick-it-to-the-man build.

/sarcasm


Any idea how many miles on that 2.5L donor motor? The photos don't look that bad to my eye for a 100,000 mile plus motor...
I don't. I could hook up the cluster, but that just seems like too much work.

[longislandwrx]

And freedom.

Amen Brother.

26686

[Rasmus]

On Thursday March 6th, this thread, my build, and my activity will go dark for 3 - 8 weeks.

http://i.imgur.com/kpxGhoL.jpg
Shoulder surgery - dominate arm. I tore my bicep, 3 weeks ago. A "SLAP tear". I just got word today that the O.R. got room and I'm on the schedule. Sucks getting old, but it's better than the alternative. I just called Stewart Transport and had them delay my delivery until the first week in April.

Cool thing is medical science is advanced enough to fix me. Science, *****! And I'll have a titanium screw in me.

[K3LAG]

Sorry to hear about your injury. I pray that your surgery and recovery will go as planned.

Larry

[mikeb75]

Best of luck with surgery and recovery. Looking forward to your getting well and back to work.

[SixStar]

Tip on the cam caps, they're all labeled so you can't really mix them up assuming you only have one motor torn down at a time.

[DodgyTim]

Sorry to hear about your arm bloke, you'll have to learn to type one handed, and live vicariously through everyone else's build threads;)

[Scargo]

What a slacker. Get's all this stuff going and skips out. Who will lead us and show us the way?
I feel the same way. Old is better than the alternative. Like... halitosis is better than no breath at all.
I expect to see great things when you are well. Don't be a stranger.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Ramus
You may not get a lot done on your project. I will bet you will still be able to help others.
Good luck and take care.
Bob

[Racebrewer]

Hang tough Rasmus,,,,,,,

Good luck with the surgery.

We'll be thinking of you ! ! !

[Goldwing]

I hope you have a successful surgery and a quick recovery. Heal it right, you'll have trouble enjoying the drive in your 818 with a painful arm.

[Frank818]

So who's going to clean all your parts?? lolll

Seriously, I'm sure it'll all go well, if you trust your mechanic, the repairs will be good enough for another 100k miles at least (that is the warranty)... who many you got on your counter? Naaah, not "that" old. :) Just make sure you don't smoke, then carbon will not build up.

[Santiago]

We're all getting older, so show us how to do it right! Speedy recovery to you...

Remember, it only takes one hand to type.

Best,
-j

[Xusia]

That sucks. :( Speedy recovery dude. :)

[gwarden]

Good luck with your shoulder

[longislandwrx]

I tore my bicep, 3 weeks ago. A "SLAP tear"

hmmm right about the time you were trying to get those long bolts out...




http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0293.jpg


SUUUUURE take the picture in front of the press, they wont suspect anything... we all know now you were using your bare hands. LOL

Feel better soon.

[RM1SepEx]

As someone who went through a detached retina, a severe infection and two "threw my back episodes" since beginning my build I can relate... It's tough to let a fun project sit, but hang in there. I'll miss your updates...

[AZPete]

Best of luck, Rasmus. Please keep helping us when you can. At least you're getting a lightweight titanium screw!

[Pearldrummer7]

Good luck, Rasmus! You got this! We'll catch you when you get back!

[metalmaker12]

Good luck

[billjr212]

i strained a bicep last week trying to put my snowboard in the attic like an idiot and thought for about 24 hours that I had done something worse, so your post is making me cringe (I lucked out).

Best of luck with the surgery and hope you have a speedy recovery!!

[Rasmus]

Thanks for all the well-wishing fellas.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0400.jpg
Be right back.

[Rasmus]

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0402.jpg
Success!

[Canadian818]

Happy to hear, get well soon!

[Xusia]

Lookin' good! You'll be back to work on your car in no time! :)

[wleehendrick]

Best wishes for a speedy recovery! Get it moving/working and on PT ASAP.

[Rasmus]

My medical staples are starting to itch. Typing one handed sucks. Wah!

http://i757.photobucket.com/albums/xx213/ironhydroxide2/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03/IMAG0117_zpscyfezw7o.jpg
A Flat4 forum member sold me one of his 1997 Legacy Knuckles to replace the one I cracked. Should be here next week. Looks like the de-rusting bucket has another customer.

[metalmaker12]

My bro had the same thing done, two-three months you should be doing great.

[Scargo]

My medical staples are starting to itch. Typing one handed sucks. Wah! Looks like the de-rusting bucket has another customer. And picking your nose is hard too, right? I've taken stitches out but I don't know if I could do staples. Oh, that upright looks cherry!

[wleehendrick]

My medical staples are starting to itch. Typing one handed sucks. Wah!

I can relate... after my motorcylce get-off, I had four pins in my right hand for six weeks (and a torso brace for the fractured vertebrae for 12 weeks). As soon as you can, get it moving and start PT.

[Doowop]

great Thread Rasmus.
What amperage are you using for the bucket? 2 Amp? have you try different ones? Awesome way to do it, by the way. Thanks

[Rasmus]

great Thread Rasmus.
What amperage are you using for the bucket? 2 Amp?
Thanks for the compliment. I use 12v@2 amp setting usually. My charger also has 6v@2 amp and 12v@6 amp. I've found that running the charger 12v@6amps for extended periods (more than 90 minutes) tends to trip the overheat-safety on my charger. Then I have to manually reset it. That varies widely depending on the size of my anode and the temperature of the air. I had it set up once with 16 rebars for the anode set in a circle during a Las Vegas Summer. It wouldn't stay on for 20 minutes even on the 12v@2amp setting. YMMV.

[Rasmus]

Shoulder's feeling about 20%. No pain any more, which is nice. Doc had me on a double set of Oxycontin slow release pills and 2 Oxycodone 10mg pills every four hours. Let me tell you, I know why people get addicted. You just feel nice. No problems. And staring at blank walls for three hours is entertainment. Tapered down and now I'm not taking any pain meds.


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0452.jpg
Two used lateral link bolts and nuts arrived along with a used '97 Legacy knuckle. Bolts look in good shape. The knuckle, not so much. This has got to be the second greasiest, rustiest part I've ever worked on. Came from the Salt Lake area. Looks it too.


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0454.jpg
The older Legacy knuckle has less webbing above the long lateral link bolt pocket, just below the bearing. See red arrows.


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0453.jpg
But the dimensions are all the same. Bolt holes the same. Hole spacing the same. I can save it. Knuckle's in the anti-rust bucket as I type.

[Goldwing]

Glad you're feeling better! Sadly, I took a spill today spraining my ankle. My turn to miss some valuable build time. Hopefully I'll be moving, albeit slowly in a few days. This winter has overstayed its welcome. (Slipped on ice while heading over to a hill with my little girl on what would have been her first sled riding adventure). She got to tour the urgent care instead, lol.

[Frank818]

Great for the shoulder! Bot a new ball joint in there! :) Keep it on!

About the rusted knuckles, you think that's rust? You haven't seen my 8 knuckles! Of course you haven't, I didn't post the pix yet on my thread. :) On 4 of them the rust is so thick it has formed a yellow and white thick crust. On the other 4, they are completely red with eaten back plates. I'll show that once I post the pix, for the fun of it. :) My anti-rust bucket is working very very hard to remove that rust, even on the bolts. I am actually testing 10amps as 2amps barely creates bubbles. The part in the bucket is placed 1in from the cathode to maximize current. I plan on zinc plating them in another bucket after that, using zinc sulfate and a zinc plate.

[Scargo]

subarupartsforyou.com lists the part as $127. You can pick it up at your local dealership. Too much? Housing-rear axle, right, 28419FE001 / Housing-rear axle, left, 28419FE011

[Rasmus]

About the rusted knuckles, you think that's rust? You haven't seen my 8 knuckles! Of course you haven't, I didn't post the pix yet on my thread. :) On 4 of them the rust is so thick it has formed a yellow and white thick crust. On the other 4, they are completely red with eaten back plates. I'll show that once I post the pix, for the fun of it. :) My anti-rust bucket is working very very hard to remove that rust, even on the bolts. I am actually testing 10amps as 2amps barely creates bubbles.
I don't think the boy from Vegas has a chance in the who's-rusty-is-thicker contest against the boy from Montreal. :D

I run my bucket at 2 amps. It makes hydrogen bubbles, but it's not like it's a rolling boil that'd fill the Hindenburg. I'm truly interested in how the 10 amps works out. I'll follow along in your thread.


subarupartsforyou.com lists the part as $127. You can pick it up at your local dealership. Too much? For me it was. It's not just the cost of the knuckles, its the lateral link bolts too. Your website list those for $16 per. So for me it was a choice between $55+elbow grease for used or $159 for new. Even the new knuckle would need some work. I'd have to paint it to match the right side so at least a degreasing. Can't have knuckles that don't match. :)

[Bill Waters]

Hi, Rasmus; glad you are improving.

I infer from the sequence of photos earlier in your build thread that there is a specific process for seating the wheel bearings/races in the carriers/uprights. (I have only a CD with a fairly basic "factory manual" on it. Very disappointing.) Left to my own devices, I would just press the unit bearing in (pressure applied on the races), respecting the limits set by the machined lip inside the carrier on one end and the snap-ring on the other. Then would gently press the hubs in.

Because the carriers/hubs from my donor are fairly corroded, I opted for new OEM ones and will put new bearings, hubs and seals in them.

If there is a procedure I should know about, is it too voluminous for you to outline it?

Thanks for any help.

Bill

[Rasmus]

Thanks Bill.

Pressing a new bearing in to a 2006 WRX (or equivalent) front knuckle
Note: Bearing goes in from the back side.
Note: I believe new bearings come with a cool little plastic ring on the inside to keep every thing together. Don't remove it until it's time to press the hub in.

Lightly grease, with the exact same grease in the bearing, the outside of the outer race and the machined surface the race will be pressed into. By light, I mean get your finger a little dab of grease on it and use only that dab to cover each part. Most of this will get scraped out in the next few steps. But it makes it so much easier than pressing it in dry.

Lightly set the bearing assembly race into the knuckle and check with a ruler that it's sitting square in the machined bore.

Lightly Load the press on the outer race by use an appropriately wide bearing driver disc (72mm) up a bit and recheck for square. This step is do-you-want-to-buy-another-bearing important.

Press the bearing in to the knuckle by pressing on the outer race. I used a 72mm bearing press disc that came in my bearing press kit. Be sure you do this square. The first two pumps on the press are where you'll know if the bearings going in square or if your buying another new bearing set.

With my bearing driver set I had to stop short of bottoming out the bearing because the 72mm bearing press disc is just about the right size to get stuck in the bore if you pressed it in there. So for the last little bit where the outer race has been driven past the bore lip but is still not bottomed out I switched to a smaller bearing driver and pressed on the bearings inner race to fully seat.

No need to go 20-tons on seating the race fully down. Just one pump past when you feel it hit bottom and you're good.

Install snap ring. I like to make sure the tongs of the snap ring are up. Just because I'd like to think there's less chance for the snap ring groove to collect debris or water when the lower portion of it is filled by snap ring. Probably just being overly cautious.

Install outer shaft seal into the knuckle. It's the one without the extra lip. Install it correctly orientated. Think, "The cup catches the grease, keeping it inside".

Lightly grease the hub's machined surface just like the above step 1.

Remove the cool little plastic ring that held the bearing together up to this point. Be mindful the inner races, roller bearing, and cages are just sitting in there with only the surface tension of the grease holding them in. They can fall out. And the first thing they find when they fall is that pile of metal shavings you missed sweeping up.

Press bearing (with knuckle surrounding it) onto the hub. Now to press this on, you're going to press on the inner race of the bearing set from back side with probably the same smaller bearing driver disc you used in steps 5 and 6. Do not set the hub on the wheel studs to press the knuckle on. The wheel studs can easily dislodge and get you pressing crooked. Hub needs to be supported by it's flange. If you can't get this. You could try locking all five studs to the hub with junky open ended lug nuts. I, personally, don't have those but hey you might. Though pressing square is important here it's harder to mess up compared to step 4.

Stop pressing when the hub has no more play in the bearing. You'll have to keep unloading the press to check. We're not looking to fully seat the hub into the bearing on this step just get it close enough.

Install inner shaft seal into the knuckle. It'll seem like there's a gap between the inner portion of the inner shaft seal and the face of the inner bearing race. That's normal.

Install axle into hub. Tighten down to 162 ft-lb. Yes, one hundred sixty two. This fully seats the bearing.

Post cool pictures of what you did on the internet.

Have Bills Waters ask you how you did it.

Type a step-by-step list up for Bill Waters.

[Bill Waters]

Many, many thanks, Rasmus. for steps 1 - 15 and especially for willingness to post when pestered by the guy in steps 16 & 17.

I have used rear knuckles/carriers from a 2006 WRX which I won't be needing. Do you prefer them to the ones you sourced? If so, I'll be happy for you to have mine. Let me know.

Thanks again,

Bill

[Rasmus]

Knuckles vs. Carriers vs. Uprights. Must be a regional thing. Like soda/pop/coke.

Right now I'm gonna stick with what I got, but thanks for the thought. :) If I break another one you'll get a PM from me.

[Frank818]

Yeah I wish I'd be in Vegas, Rasmus... I'd spend less time cleaning my parts. lolll

Actually so far I found out 10amps really does a great job and the bolts (no knuckles tried out yet) don't make big bubbles. Very small ones on the surface. And I have to place them about 2in from the metal plate. It seems it needs some very good current to work well and probably 3 to 6h for the rear long lateral bolts. But it's easy to manually remove the excess if any left, the rust may still show a little, but not stuck hard. Now that I start to get the hang of it, next parts I will post a video to show the difference.

I will also zinc electroplate the bolts and nuts. Like you know, it's the same process as anti-rust, but you have to switch the anode-cathode and use a different mixture with a zinc plate. I am doing all this after I have seen your post when you started cleaning. See how you influence others. lolll

[Rasmus]

And I have to place them about 2in from the metal plate. It seems it needs some very good current to work well and probably 3 to 6h for the rear long lateral bolts.
Did you add 'Washing Soda' to the water? Sodium Carbonate? It helps the water conduct electricity. Only 1 tablespoon per gallon needed. Adding more does nothing but waste the washing soda.

[Frank818]

Yup I added that amount for 4-5gals, so 4-5 tablespoon.
But I fab my own washing soda, I had baking soda and to make it washing soda you have to... bake it! lolll 30mins at 400F. It dries out the water in the formula and makes it baking soda. The problem is I don't know if it really worked...

Sodium Carbonate (washing soda) is Na2CO3.
Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda) is NaHCO3.

The way it supposed to work is that at 50C+ sodium bicarbonate gradually decomposes into sodium carbonate, water and carbon dioxide. The conversion is faster at 200C.

Therefore,
2 NaHCO3 → Na2CO3 + H2O + CO2

H2O and CO2 evaporate in the air, leaving you with Na2CO3.

[Rasmus]

Go Science!

I've read, but don't know, that Sodium Bicarbonate is half as effective for this as compared to Sodium Carbonate. It'll still work. Just slower. (I really don't know if this it true or not)

Tell you what. I'll just pop some in the mail for ya. How much of this white powdery substance to you want? I'll package it up nice in an unlabeled zip-loc baggie inside a manila envelope and mail it across our shared international border.

[longislandwrx]

It makes hydrogen bubbles, but it's not like it's a rolling boil that'd fill the Hindenburg.

http://www.amazon.com/dia-Professional-Weather-Balloon-150g/dp/B0081UGJ9W

to the stars!


Tell you what. I'll just pop some in the mail for ya. How much of this white powdery substance to you want? I'll package it up nice in an unlabeled zip-loc baggie inside a manila envelope and mail it across our shared international border.

sounds legit.

[Frank818]

lolll one must not simply read your last paragraph, Rasmus, without reading the other one first. lolll
I didn't search around yet, but I'm sure there is some washing soda somewhere, I'll take a look. I'd be interested to compare with my baked baking soda. If I don't find any I'll let Vegas know. :) Cuz you know, what happens in Vegas stays in Vegas. :)

[Jaime]

Lightly Load the press on the outer race by use an appropriately wide bearing driver disc (72mm) up a bit and recheck for square. This step is do-you-want-to-buy-another-bearing important.This is what mine looks like:
26998

The rotor also has about 0.080 runout at the edge. I have a hard time wrapping my head around how the bearing could possibly sit in the housing that crooked. If I rotate the axle, the wide spot moves with the CV. I removed and rotated the CV and the wide spot didn't move, so it's not the CV.

I also don't like that the front hub doesn't catch the inside inner race as well as the rear hub does. Without a CV, the hub will just fall out if you're not careful.

[Rasmus]

lolll one must not simply read your last paragraph
I'll send you a kilo then. Should last a while. :cool:

[Rasmus]

Well this is thrilling. Stewart Transport just called me 20 minutes ago. Scott, the driver, said:


I'm in Kingman, AZ. I'll will be passing though Vegas in about 90 minutes. Want your car? It's in the back on the top.

Yes, please.

[Bill Waters]

I know just how that feels. Congrats, Rasmus.

Like you, I have 2006 aluminum LCAs, and, like you, I completely disassembled them when I was cleaning everything up. I can't find the torque value for the two bolts which hold the steel fitting which articulates with the rear bushing. The closest reference in the build manual gives values that seem way too high - like 140 ft-lbs or so. What values did you use when you reassembled yours?
Thanks,

Bill

[Bob_n_Cincy]

bill
here are the diagrams out of the 06 manual
I think the bolts you are talking about at T11 on the diagram, so 114 ft-lbs

Rasmus, I guess trucking is open all night in Vegas
have fun tonight
Bob

2721827219

[Rasmus]

It arrived.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0472.jpg
Stewart Transport's Scott backed into my tiny four house cul-de-sac.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0469.jpg
Even seeing my name on it, it didn't feel real.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0474.jpg
Tucked it in.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0475.jpg
All the neighbors came over, even. Must have had 20 humans running around at one point.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0476.jpg
Full up. Just wish my shoulder was ready for this. I can only sit in the garage and look at it for the next several weeks. But it's here. It's really here.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Congratulations Rasmus,
I know it will be hard, Please let your shoulder get better before you do any wrenching.
Get your kid(s) to help.
Bob

[Pearldrummer7]

Woohoo! And it begins! Congrats buddy; excited to see how it goes for you.

[Rasmus]

:D

Looks like it's chassis #144.

[Frank818]

Congrats on the delivery!

20 people around? Well that should help build the kit in 3 days! :)

[Goldwing]

Congrats Rasmus! Staring at mine with a sprained ankle sucks too, lol. I hobbled out and installed my shift bracket a couple days ago. My garage is so cluttered right now, crutches just aren't safe out there. Gave up and hobbled back in. Sigh.

[Canadian818]

Congrats buddy! My shoulder is fine and more often then I'd like to admit, all I can do is stare at it. :) get well soon, the hard part will be taking it easy once you can work on it.

[longislandwrx]

Just wait until they start coming over and asking if it's done yet.

20 people is 40 hands to sand high build primer!

Congrats!

My knuckles come Thursday so my build is back in 5th gear.

[Bill Waters]

Congratulations, Rasmus; I can empathize - the day my Roadster arrived a few years ago, I was fresh from an ankle fracture requiring a titanium plate and 6 weeks off of it. You will prevail.

Bob - thanks very much for forwarding the info.

Bill

[Rasmus]

my build is back in 5th gear.
Get out of overdrive you slacker. Pop that thing in 3rd and rev to 8000. :cool:


requiring a titanium plate and 6 weeks off of it.
I'm on the 6 week thing. Saw the surgeon last week and asked him how much I could load it up.
You can lift up to 1 coffee cup... empty. See you in three weeks and hopefully we'll start you on Physical Therapy after that. I was bummed. I didn't even get a cool titanium plate. Just two titanium screws.

[Santiago]

Very exciting indeed! Thanks for sharing the pics - I kind of get a sense of the surreal experience for you. Wow...it's happening, it's not just an idea...

I've already been following your thread, so I'm looking forward to tagging along till she's complete.

Best,
-j

[Frank818]

I didn't even get a cool titanium plate. Just two titanium screws.

Well at least your screws will never rust so you won't need to service them in your anti-rust bucket.

Oh sorry, we're talking about your shoulder, here! lolll

[VD2021]

Congrats!

I'm eager to see this one......

[wleehendrick]

It arrived.

Congrats!


Even seeing my name on it, it didn't feel real.

I know the feeling. After seeing so many deliveries online... wow, this one's mine!


I didn't even get a cool titanium plate. Just two titanium screws.

At least you have some cool hardware in you. After my accident, I was disappointed that the four pins in my hand would come out and I wouldn't be left with any metal in me. Removing them was fun... it was out-patient, no anesthetic; just me, the surgeon, and a pair of pliers.

[longislandwrx]

Get out of overdrive you slacker. Pop that thing in 3rd and rev to 8000. :cool:

HAHA I chose to wait to get some clean west coast knuckles... the long bolts have already been removed :cool: No snap crackle pop here.

[Bill Waters]

I was bummed. I didn't even get a cool titanium plate. Just two titanium screws.


Don't worry! You're young and have a number of dangerous acitivities planned....there will be many opportunities for Titanium plates in the future!

[Rasmus]

Based on some formulas from this thread on Nabisco (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2284690) I overlaid how much air my planned 2.334 liter motor can pump at various RPM's and Pressure Ratio's (PR). I'm trying to choose the correct size turbo for SCCA's X Prepared class. X Axis is Lb of Air/Min Pumped (Lb/Min). Y Axis is Pressure Ratio (a.k.a. Boost). The colored lines represent how much air can be pumped through the 2.334 liter motor at a given RPM as the PR changes. This is a purely mathematical exercise assuming 100% efficiency at Sea Level Air pressure.

PR of 0.0 = Perfect Vacuum
PR of 1.0 = Zero Boost, Wide Open Throttle
PR of 1.5 = 7.4 psi of boost
PR of 2.0 = 14.7 psi of boost
PR of 2.5 = 22.1 psi of boost
PR of 3.0 = 29.4 psi of boost
PR of 4.0 = 44.1 psi of boost

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/Airflowthrougha2334LwithGTX2867R.png
Here's the GTX2867R compressor map under a 2.334L motor at various RPM's and Pressure Ratio's. At 2000 RPM the turbo's starting to get past the surge line (beginning to spool up). Turbo's full spooled at 3000RPM for Pressure Ratios 2.0 - 3.0. Peak HP should hit about 5000 - 5500 RPM, pushing 46 lb/min (460 hp +/- 5%) at PR 2.7. The GTX2867R will exceed it's choke line (a.k.a. gas out) at 7250 RPM pushing 36 lb/min at a PR of 1.5.


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/Airflowthrougha2334LwithGTX3076R.png
Here's the GTX3076R compressor map under a 2.334L motor at various RPM's and Pressure Ratio's. At 3000 RPM the turbo's starting to get past the surge line (beginning to spool up). Turbo's full spooled at 3750RPM for Pressure Ratios 2.0 - 3.0. Limiting ourselves to PR's under 3.0 peak HP should hit about 6250 - 7000 RPM at PR from 3.0 to 2.7, pushing ~62 lb/min (625 hp +/- 5%). If limited to a PR's of 2.5 peak HP should hit about 7400 RPM, pushing ~61 lb/min (615 hp +/- 5%). If limited to a PR's of 2.0 peak HP should hit about 8400 RPM, pushing ~56 lb/min (565 hp +/- 5%)The GTX3076R will exceed it's choke line (a.k.a. gas out) at 8800 RPM pushing 46 lb/min (460 hp +/- 5%) at a PR of 1.6.


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/Airflowthrougha2334LwithGTX3576R.png
Here's the GTX3576R compressor map under a 2.334L motor at various RPM's and Pressure Ratio's. I'm not doing a written analysis for this one.


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/Airflowthrougha2334LwithGTX3582R.png
Here's the GTX3582R compressor map under a 2.334L motor at various RPM's and Pressure Ratio's. At 3800 RPM the turbo's starting to get past the surge line (beginning to spool up). Turbo's full spooled at 4250 RPM for Pressure Ratios 2.0 - 3.0. Limiting ourselves to PR's under 3.0 Peak HP should hit about 7600 - 8300 RPM at PR from 3.0 to 2.7, pushing ~76 lb/min (765 hp +/- 5%). The GTX3582R will exceed it's choke line (a.k.a. gas out) at 10,500 RPM pushing ~62 lb/min (625 hp +/- 5%) at a PR of 1.75.

Overall:
The GTX2867R would seem to be an excellent 'street' turbo. Powerband running from 3000 to 7250 rpm. Boost would almost always be available for the duck and dart of street driving. You won't have to spin a 2.334 liter up to crazyville to use the whole thing.
The GTX3076R is more of the 'track day' turbo. Powerband running from 3750 to 8800 RPM. If caught out cruising in low RPM's you'll experience turbo lag. But if geared correctly, with head work to prevent the valves from floating, you'd have a track-day hero. But you've got to get those RPM's up to use it properly.
The GTX3582R is the 'drag' turbo. Powerband starting at 4250 and continuing up as high as you can spin it. I'm not even sure you could build a Subaru EJ 2.334 to take 10,500 RPM. But you can brag on the internet about how many hp's you' got on the dyno.

Keep in mind you could also adjust these by running larger or smaller A/R turbine housing, to shift the maps a bit.

[longislandwrx]

When I spoke to Micah about happy turbos on the 2.33 he really liked the GTX3582R


"@28 psi we shift it around 8k. 32 PSI get’s stretched to 8500 "

that's on a 2.5 so ymmv


the new gsc springs are rated to 11k+ rpm...

but I would start with this for motivation:

27254

[STiPWRD]

Congrats on getting your kit! I'm picking mine up this Saturday - can't wait!

[Rasmus]

Did the

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/Airflowthrougha2334LwithGTX3067R.png
GTX3067R, and


http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/Airflowthrougha2334LwithGTX3071R.png
GTX3071R just for comparison.

[erlihemi]

[QUOTE=Rasmus;144988]It arrived.

Rasmus - your kit was at my place the week before!! I thought about taking a picture and sending it to you as a teaser, but I'm not that mean:)
My 33 was finished feb 22nd and we waited through two snowstorms to get it on a truck. I'm only 8 hours from the factory so I was considering picking it up myself. I blew out a shoulder during a build 15 years ago and went thru 3 months of physical therapy. I have one arm I can work over my head with and one arm I can pull wrenches with. The best part was when the doctor asked me when I had injured my neck. I didn't know the answer to that one. Stayed out of surgery though. Good luck with the build!!

[Jaime]

8 hours away and in upstate NY? Are you anywhere near Lockport?

[Rasmus]

the new gsc springs are rated to 11k+ rpm...
http://www.lataco.com/taco/wp-content/uploads/to_11.jpg
They go to 11?


Good luck with the build!!
Thanks, man.

I wonder if most drop off's were like mine. 75 minutes warning.

[Rasmus]

Went through all but one of the boxes FFR shipped with Stewart.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0478.jpg
Thrilling opening box 1. Thick assembly manual, cool Koni shocks, 500 in/lb springs, racy-looking upper control arms!

Only box I didn't make it through was box 6. The BIG box. It's time consuming doing everything with one arm. My right is only good for writing check marks on paper. But my left is getting good with a razor blade. Never thought that'd happen.

And, yes, I'm missing a fuel cell like so many other 818 builders.

[Xusia]

http://www.lataco.com/taco/wp-content/uploads/to_11.jpg
They go to 11?

OMG! I just about fell off my chair laughing!

[Scargo]

When I spoke to Micah about happy turbos on the 2.33 he really liked the GTX3582R


"@28 psi we shift it around 8k. 32 PSI get’s stretched to 8500 "

that's on a 2.5 so ymmv


the new gsc springs are rated to 11k+ rpm...

but I would start with this for motivation:

27254
That's why I am putting the EFR 8374 in my STi... Four more lbs/min for the additional .17 liters!:p
Springs for 11K sounds crazy. My builder guru I listen to talks about parasitic loss. Then there's the friction/wear and the pounding the valvetrain takes. It's not like we can easily add back the material from journal wear to the heads we invest so much in. I did +1 valves, Beehive springs and Ti retainers to my heads and feel safe for 9K. Not sure about the rest of the motor wanting to do that.:confused: Also, my heads flowed 284 and 219. I hope to support the EFR 8374 with good exhaust work, good compressor plumbing and the smallest (.82) A/R twin scroll turbine housing.
Doesn't the GTX 3071 look better to you? Looks like the GTX 3076 would be starting to gasp for breath (and losing efficiency) a lot sooner. Guess it depends on your goals.

[metalmaker12]

You guys must be great drivers because with my vf37 twin scroll I have way to much power already.