818Rasmus E Modified

[Rasmus]

Because I'm currently obsessed with it:

Here's the EFR 7163 at a nice 1.5 bar (22psi) (http://www.3k-warner.de////aftermarket/matchbot/index.html#version=1.3&displacement=2.334&CID=142.42068&altitude=2200&baro=13.808&aat=85&turboconfig=1&compressor=71x80&pt1_rpm=2700&pt1_ve=95&pt1_boost=22&pt1_ie=99&pt1_filres=0.1&pt1_ipd=0.12&pt1_mbp=0.2&pt1_ce=60&pt1_te=79&pt1_egt=1600&pt1_ter=1.97&pt1_pw=10.18&pt1_bsfc=0.43&pt1_afr=11.2&pt1_wts=300&pt1_wd=83&pt1_wd2=74&pt1_wrsin=69033&pt2_rpm=4500&pt2_ve=95&pt2_boost=22&pt2_ie=99&pt2_filres=0.1&pt2_ipd=0.33&pt2_mbp=0.2&pt2_ce=71&pt2_te=78&pt2_egt=1600&pt2_ter=2.29&pt2_pw=35.47&pt2_bsfc=0.45&pt2_afr=11.2&pt2_wts=320&pt2_wd=83&pt2_wd2=74&pt2_wrsin=73635&pt3_rpm=5500&pt3_ve=100&pt3_boost=22&pt3_ie=99&pt3_filres=0.3&pt3_ipd=0.54&pt3_mbp=0.5&pt3_ce=74&pt3_te=72&pt3_egt=1650&pt3_ter=2.64&pt3_pw=41.84&pt3_bsfc=0.48&pt3_afr=11&pt3_wts=340&pt3_wd=83&pt3_wd2=74&pt3_wrsin=78238&pt4_rpm=7300&pt4_ve=100&pt4_boost=22&pt4_ie=99&pt4_filres=0.4&pt4_ipd=1&pt4_mbp=0.5&pt4_ce=59&pt4_te=71&pt4_egt=1650&pt4_ter=3.57&pt4_pw=40.23&pt4_bsfc=0.5&pt4_afr=11&pt4_wts=368&pt4_wd=83&pt4_wd2=74&pt4_wrsin=84681&pt5_rpm=8500&pt5_ve=95&pt5_boost=17&pt5_ie=99&pt5_filres=0.3&pt5_ipd=0.89&pt5_mbp=0.5&pt5_ce=58.5&pt5_te=70&pt5_egt=1650&pt5_ter=3.14&pt5_pw=44.64&pt5_bsfc=0.52&pt5_afr=11&pt5_wts=400&pt5_wd=83&pt5_wd2=74&pt5_wrsin=92044&pt6_rpm=9300&pt6_ve=95&pt6_boost=9&pt6_ie=99&pt6_filres=0.3&pt6_ipd=0.59&pt6_mbp=0.5&pt6_ce=54&pt6_te=70&pt6_egt=1650&pt6_ter=2.29&pt6_pw=50.89&pt6_bsfc=0.55&pt6_afr=11&pt6_wts=400&pt6_wd=83&pt6_wd2=74&pt6_wrsin=92044&). Spools up even faster than 1.75, which again, is not surprising; achieving full boost at 2700 RPM (232 hp/454 ft-lb). Peak power is still 575 hp but moves up 300 RPM to 7300. Peak torques at 2700 RPM: 454 ft-lb.

Here's the S200SX at 1.5 bar (22psi) (http://www.3k-warner.de///aftermarket/matchbot/index.html#version=1.3&displacement=2.334&CID=142.42068&altitude=2200&baro=13.808&aat=85&turboconfig=1&compressor=76s73&pt1_rpm=3000&pt1_ve=95&pt1_boost=22&pt1_ie=99&pt1_filres=0.1&pt1_ipd=0.15&pt1_mbp=0.2&pt1_ce=67&pt1_te=79&pt1_egt=1600&pt1_ter=1.72&pt1_pw=1.02&pt1_bsfc=0.43&pt1_afr=11.2&pt1_wts=300&pt1_wd=83&pt1_wd2=74&pt1_wrsin=69033&pt2_rpm=4500&pt2_ve=95&pt2_boost=22&pt2_ie=99&pt2_filres=0.1&pt2_ipd=0.36&pt2_mbp=0.2&pt2_ce=74&pt2_te=78&pt2_egt=1600&pt2_ter=1.91&pt2_pw=22.4&pt2_bsfc=0.45&pt2_afr=11.2&pt2_wts=320&pt2_wd=83&pt2_wd2=74&pt2_wrsin=73635&pt3_rpm=5500&pt3_ve=100&pt3_boost=22&pt3_ie=99&pt3_filres=0.3&pt3_ipd=0.61&pt3_mbp=0.5&pt3_ce=73&pt3_te=72&pt3_egt=1650&pt3_ter=2.17&pt3_pw=27.22&pt3_bsfc=0.48&pt3_afr=11&pt3_wts=340&pt3_wd=83&pt3_wd2=74&pt3_wrsin=78238&pt4_rpm=7000&pt4_ve=100&pt4_boost=22&pt4_ie=99&pt4_filres=0.4&pt4_ipd=1&pt4_mbp=0.5&pt4_ce=63&pt4_te=71&pt4_egt=1650&pt4_ter=2.63&pt4_pw=28.87&pt4_bsfc=0.5&pt4_afr=11&pt4_wts=368&pt4_wd=83&pt4_wd2=74&pt4_wrsin=84681&pt5_rpm=8500&pt5_ve=95&pt5_boost=17&pt5_ie=99&pt5_filres=0.3&pt5_ipd=0.97&pt5_mbp=0.5&pt5_ce=60&pt5_te=70&pt5_egt=1650&pt5_ter=2.46&pt5_pw=33.17&pt5_bsfc=0.52&pt5_afr=11&pt5_wts=400&pt5_wd=83&pt5_wd2=74&pt5_wrsin=92044&pt6_rpm=9300&pt6_ve=95&pt6_boost=10&pt6_ie=99&pt6_filres=0.3&pt6_ipd=0.7&pt6_mbp=0.5&pt6_ce=59.5&pt6_te=70&pt6_egt=1650&pt6_ter=1.95&pt6_pw=40.81&pt6_bsfc=0.55&pt6_afr=11&pt6_wts=400&pt6_wd=83&pt6_wd2=74&pt6_wrsin=92044&). Spools up a hint faster. Full boost @ 3000 RPM (255 hp/450 lb-ft). Peak powers still at 7000 RPM, 555 hp. Peak torques at down at 3000 RPM, 450 ft-lb.

Looking at those two plots the EFR 7163 must be rocking some really nice Anti-Surge ports to get it to work like that down low. The S200SX probably doesn't have the Anti-Surge ports which is why it's Choke Line is pushed out a bit further but can't spool up as quick.

Hmmm. I wonder if you could get a S200SX compressor housing with Anti Surge Ports?

[Rasmus]

I was almost ready to jump to the S200SX but I just read that the EFR Line (http://www.full-race.com/articles/borgwarner-efr-turbos.html) has
An integrated Internal Wastegate for it's twin-scroll offering. I knew this.
An integrated BPV/BOV (100% recirculating type). No need to source an aftermarket one or run the OEM one.
An integrated EBCS (Electronic Boost Control Solenoid).
Plus it comes standard with Anti-Surge Ports (http://www.miataturbo.net/attachments/diy-turbo-discussion-14/28228d1321480215-where-did-all-borg-warner-efrs-go-efr-9180__53350__70577_zoom-jpg) on the compressor housing
It's center section runs ball bearings vs the S200SX's oil bearings
It's water cooled so you don't have to run a turbo-timer on shut down, or run lighter weight oil to keep the turbo from burning it's shaft up

On the surface the S200SX seems like a great value. But when you factor in all the extra's you have to get to run it properly it might be a wash money-wise.

[xxguitarist]

While I knew about the EFRs IWG too, I wasn't aware of the built in BPV. Interesting. Makes plumbing for the AWIC much cleaner, easier.
Wasn't aware of the integrated EBCS either. Between selling the grimmspeed EBCS & forge BPV that came on the car, we'd be getting closer to break-even with the S200SX.

Personally.. I was looking forward to ditching the water cooling.. No need for the aux tank next to the engine! Easy enough to idle the car for a bit if you've boosted recently.

Seems like the drivers seat experience would be vaguely similar for both turbos though?

[Rasmus]

Seems like the drivers seat experience would be vaguely similar for both turbos though?
Seems that way. Once you got up to target boost, I think the ***-dyno would think you were running the same turbo. However...

The EFR will come on quicker while under target boost at low RPM's. That is as it rides along the Surge Line up to target boost. For example:

The EFR will hit 0.75 bar (11 psi) at 1600 RPM making 95 hp. Then 1.0 bar (14.5 psi) at 1700 RPM making 105 hp; then 1.25 bar (18 psi) at 1950 RPM making 150 hp.

The S200SX will hit 0.75 bar (11 psi) at 2450 RPM making 145 hp. Then 1.0 bar (14.5 psi) at 2700 RPM making 180 hp; then 1.25 bar (18 psi) at 2850 RPM making 215 hp.

That's probably mostly due the the Anti-Surge Housing on the EFR. The power comes on much quicker and smooths you into your target boost and higher horse power. The S200SX without Anti-Surge (it's the only graph BorgWarner has for me) is your "VTEC, YO!", old-school-turbo-lag, turbo. When it finally gets pass the Surge Line the power comes on HARD and Fast. Bear in mind that the EFR is hitting ~150 hp, 500 RPM sooner than the S200 hits 150 hp.

With anti-surge ports on the S200SX's compressor housing I'd guess the two turbo's would drive very close to the same on the assdyno. A real dyno could tell them apart, but seat of the pants? I doubt it.

[Rasmus]

On a different note:

Happy day! I finally acquired all the parts for the rotating assembly to get balanced. Dropped it all off at the machine shop.

Crankshaft
Rods
Rod bearings
Pistons
Piston Rings
Wrist Pins
Timing gear/teeth
Flywheel
Pressure Plate
Bolts for the lot

Told 'em to balance it for up to 9300 RPM. That's the most it'll ever see, but a little more head room would be nice and bring peace of mind.

[fzust]

Cool build! Look forward to seeing you out there!

#196 XP FrankenLotus

[Rasmus]

Cool build! Look forward to seeing you out there!
See you on course Fred.

http://i.imgur.com/SoYgkp3.jpg
While my parts are at the machine shop I pulled my valve covers out of the shed...

http://i.imgur.com/80iBgiX.jpg
Cleaned 'em up.

[longislandwrx]

so fresh! technique? mineral spirits? mastercard?

[Rasmus]

so fresh! technique? mineral spirits? mastercard?
Oven Cleaner to take off the baked on oil (Yes, yes, I know.) Mostly so the baked on oil doesn't contaminate and clog my...
Media Blasting Cabinet, Baking Soda, 60 psi
220 grit wet/dry
400 grit wet/dry
Take photo
Delete that
Take photo with flash so it looks even better
Post on Internet

[MrDude_1]

You should have weighed them before and after. lol.

[Displaced]

Nice build, will be interesting to see what it does once finished.

That said, I'd take some of those Matchbot numbers with a grain of salt.

Putting in values for VE, intercooler efficiency, muffler backpressure etc like you've done I'm showing way over 800 horsepower on matchbot with a EFR8374.

On the dyno it put down 685hp @ 8000rpm and 30psi, which is basically in line with other shops dyno's and those around the web. (32psi = 700hp)

Playing around with Matchbot I was able to getit's outputs to match dyno numbers by upping parasitic losses, wether or not those hold true are another matter. (haven't measured EGBP, or intercooler pressure loss etc.)

http://www.3k-warner.de/aftermarket/matchbot/index.html#version=1.3&displacement=2.5&CID=152.55&altitude=500&baro=14.502&aat=75&turboconfig=1&compressor=83s75&pt1_rpm=4000&pt1_ve=85&pt1_boost=15&pt1_ie=90&pt1_filres=0.5&pt1_ipd=0.5&pt1_mbp=2&pt1_ce=66&pt1_te=75&pt1_egt=1600&pt1_ter=1.54&pt1_pw=0.86&pt1_bsfc=0.43&pt1_afr=11.8&pt1_wts=300&pt1_wd=83&pt1_wd2=74&pt1_wrsin=69033&pt2_rpm=5000&pt2_ve=95&pt2_boost=20&pt2_ie=90&pt2_filres=0.5&pt2_ipd=1&pt2_mbp=2&pt2_ce=70&pt2_te=73&pt2_egt=1600&pt2_ter=1.7&pt2_pw=0.99&pt2_bsfc=0.45&pt2_afr=11.8&pt2_wts=320&pt2_wd=83&pt2_wd2=74&pt2_wrsin=73635&pt3_rpm=6000&pt3_ve=100&pt3_boost=30&pt3_ie=90&pt3_filres=0.5&pt3_ipd=2&pt3_mbp=2&pt3_ce=74&pt3_te=72&pt3_egt=1600&pt3_ter=2&pt3_pw=0.39&pt3_bsfc=0.48&pt3_afr=11.8&pt3_wts=340&pt3_wd=83&pt3_wd2=74&pt3_wrsin=78238&pt4_rpm=7000&pt4_ve=100&pt4_boost=30&pt4_ie=90&pt4_filres=0.5&pt4_ipd=2&pt4_mbp=2&pt4_ce=76&pt4_te=71&pt4_egt=1600&pt4_ter=1.98&pt4_pw=0.32&pt4_bsfc=0.5&pt4_afr=11.8&pt4_wts=368&pt4_wd=83&pt4_wd2=74&pt4_wrsin=84681&pt5_rpm=8000&pt5_ve=93&pt5_boost=30&pt5_ie=90&pt5_filres=0.5&pt5_ipd=2&pt5_mbp=2&pt5_ce=72&pt5_te=70&pt5_egt=1600&pt5_ter=2.09&pt5_pw=0.45&pt5_bsfc=0.52&pt5_afr=11.8&pt5_wts=400&pt5_wd=83&pt5_wd2=74&pt5_wrsin=92044&pt6_rpm=9000&pt6_ve=88&pt6_boost=30&pt6_ie=90&pt6_filres=0.5&pt6_ipd=2&pt6_mbp=2&pt6_ce=66&pt6_te=70&pt6_egt=1600&pt6_ter=2.28&pt6_pw=1.82&pt6_bsfc=0.55&pt6_afr=11.8&pt6_wts=400&pt6_wd=83&pt6_wd2=74&pt6_wrsin=92044&

Just food for though, but I'd still suspect you to be in the high 400hp to low 500hp range with a 7163

[Rasmus]

You should have weighed them before and after. lol.
That'd be hilarious! "Cleaned Valve Covers. Saved 6 grams." :o

[Pearldrummer7]

Oven Cleaner to take off the baked on oil (Yes, yes, I know.) Mostly so the baked on oil doesn't contaminate and clog my...
Media Blasting Cabinet, Baking Soda, 60 psi



That was such a smooth sentence transition.

[Rasmus]

Out of curiosity... what wheels and tires will you run? You mentioned 23.5 OD tires. Does that equate to a 15" rim?

I haven't forgotten or missed your questions Glyn. I just needed to think a bit before answering.

Street Use (i.e. Cars & Coffee, Show-n-Shines, Can Kicker Shoot the **** Nights, Group Drives)
Front: 215/40-r17 on 17x8's +40mm offset. O.D.: 23.8". A little under the maximum recommended O.D. from FFR and Wayne (24.0" Max).
Rear: 255/40-r17 on 17x9.5's +30mm offset. O.D.: 25.0". +30 offset because I'm running "Wagon Width" rear lateral links: 10 mm shorter per side. So I can push the wheel out 10 mm and it'll sit exactly where FFR and Wayne recommend. Plus, DAMN SON! It look cool, all deep dish, like dat!

Wheel Brand and Model:
http://www.tirerack.com/images/tires/dunlop/du_dirz2ss_ci2_s.jpg
Dunlop Direzza ZII Star Spec. (http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Dunlop&tireModel=Direzza+ZII+Star+Spec) I like the tread pattern and it comes in both sizes.

CCA Solo/AutoX
Front: 8.7/21.5-15 on 15x8 +40mm offset (O.D: 22.10")
Rear: 10.5/23.0-15 on 15x11 +5mm offset/6.2" backspace (O.D.: 23.55"). I'm not even sure If I could get this to fit. It sticks out 2 inches more than the street set.
Rear Alt: 9.0/23.5-15 on 15x9 +30mm offset/6.2" backspace (O.D.: 23.60")

Wheel Brand and Model
http://www.avonmotorsport.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/tyre_image//sites/default/files/tyre_images/slick-tyre-sm_14.JPG
Avon 15" Crossply slicks (http://www.avonmotorsport.com/motorsport/crossply/15-crossply-slicks). I like the tread pattern and it comes in both sizes.

[Jaime]

http://www.avonmotorsport.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/tyre_image//sites/default/files/tyre_images/slick-tyre-sm_14.JPG
...I like the tread pattern...

Nice

[Hindsight]

Rasmus, I thought the recommended front size was 214/40/17 due to the <= 24" OD? I believe Wayne said anything with a larger OD will rub? I am asking because I would much prefer to go larger than 24 myself but have been limiting my choices due to Wayne's findings.

Are the rear lower control arms the same on the wagon vs sedan? So its just the lateral links that are different?

[MrDude_1]

http://www.avonmotorsport.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/tyre_image//sites/default/files/tyre_images/slick-tyre-sm_14.JPG
Avon 15" Crossply slicks. I like the tread pattern and it comes in both sizes.

I also like that tread pattern... but do slicks like this get hot enough to stick in autocross on such a light car? I thought the higher end DOT tires worked better cold, but I know tires have changed since I last autocrossed seriously.. (5 years ago)

[Rasmus]

Rasmus, I thought the recommended front size was 214/40/17 due to the <= 24" OD? I believe Wayne said anything with a larger OD will rub?
I'm so glad you wrote something and stopped me. You're right. The size has been change from 215/45-r17 to 215/40-r17. I would have been cursing myself.

[xxguitarist]

Rasmus,
I'm sure you know already, but EM rules specify a couple differences for a DOT-R tire vs full race compound. IE, external battery switch & trans shatter shield.

We're probably going for V710 to get the car dialed in, to avoid wasting the A6 or A7 that we'll switch to once we're set up.

[Rasmus]

Rasmus,
I'm sure you know already, but EM rules specify a couple differences for a DOT-R tire vs full race compound. IE, external battery switch & trans shatter shield.

First thing, I hate the Modifed Classes ruleset in the SCCA Solo Rules. I have to skip around to four different sections to get the full set of rules. Hate it!

They way I read it:


18.0.D. Tires
Any tire (including recaps) meeting the applicable portions of Section
3.3 is allowed.

As long as it's safe you can run any tire you want. I don't see where the rules have conditions on DOT-R vs full race compounds.


18.0.E. Safety Requirements
1. Scattershields/Chain Guard:The installation of scattershields or
explosion-proof bell housings shall be required on all cars where
the failure of the clutch, flywheel, or torque converter could create
a hazard to the driver or passengers.
The orientation of the flywheel and clutch in the 818 would not create a hazard to the driver or passengers in the event of a catastrophic explosion. Sure it'd shred the rear wheels, tires, intercooler, turbo, and a fair amount of bodywork but the humans are not in the direct line of fire from such an event. So the 818 in E Modified Class doesn't have to run a scattershield. That stated, based on my totally inaccurate finger pinch measurements the phase 2 5-speed case I'm running appears to meet the requirements of rules if I did need to run an explosion-proof bell housing"¼ inch (0.250”; 6.35mm) aluminum alloy".


18.0.E. Safety Requirements
2. Master Switch: All cars shall be equipped with a master switch
easily accessible from outside the car.
You have to run a master switch no matter what.

Let me know what I've interpreted wrong. That rule sets hard to follow some times.

[xxguitarist]

18.0.E.3. Driveshaft Hoop: RWD DM and EM vehicles shall have a drive-
shaft hoop capable of preventing the shaft from entering the driver’s compartment or damaging any
fluid or electrical lines in the event of joint or shaft breakage. All cars in competition us- ing
open driveshafts must have a retainer loop with 360° of en- closure, ¼ inch (0.250”; 6.35 mm)
minimum thickness and 2.0” (50.8 mm) wide, or ⅞ inch (0.875”) x 0.065” (22.23 mm x 1.65 mm) welded
steel tubing, securely mounted and located so as to support and contain the driveshaft in event of
U-joint failure. Vehicles that have a closed “tunnel” or other such structure which the driveshaft
passes through such as the vehicle’s frame, may be considered for an exemption from the SEB if that
structure meets the criteria stated above.
Note: DM and EM vehicles are exempt from the scattershield,
driveshaft hoop, and Master Switch requirements if they are using
DOT-approved tires.


Bold for emphasis.

Could well be that the bellhousing counts as a scattershield. Either way, DOTs reads to me as not needing the switch.

[Rasmus]

Agreed. I'd interpret it that way also. Thanks for the clarification.

[Scargo]

Certainly not in drag racing. Aluminum bellhousings have never been considered a scattershield.

About Matchbot: I think it can be a great too if used wisely and realistically. I sure hope my BW EFR 8374 doesn't put out a Brazillion horsepower at 32 PSI. If it does, my pricey built motor will last about two seconds.

[MrDude_1]

Certainly not in drag racing. Aluminum bellhousings have never been considered a scattershield.

About Matchbot: I think it can be a great too if used wisely and realistically. I sure hope my BW EFR 8374 doesn't put out a Brazillion horsepower at 32 PSI. If it does, my pricey built motor will last about two seconds.
I was just about to say the same thing. If you need a scattershield in NHRA, you need to either swap bellhousings to a SFI approved one, or add on one of the SFI approved strap-style ones that go over and around the trans.

That said, the rules were obviously intended for a front-engined car with the clutch near the drivers ankles... so there may be a work around with that.

edit: note that if an aluminum bellhousing counted as a scattershield, almost no car would ever need one.

[xxguitarist]

Auto-x is a little different. This is SCCA Solo's definition of scattershield


The following shall be required in all Modified Category vehicles:
1. Scattershields/Chain Guard:The installation of scattershields or
explosion-proof bell housings shall be required on all cars where
the failure of the clutch, flywheel, or torque converter could create
a hazard to the driver or passengers. Chain drive cars shall be
fitted with a protective case/shield to retain the chain in case of
failure.
The following material requirements apply to scattershields/explosion-
proof bell housings:
⅛ inch (0.125”; 3.18mm) SAE 4130 alloy steel
¼ inch (0.250”; 6.35mm) mild steel plate
¼ inch (0.250”; 6.35mm) aluminum alloy
SFI or NHRA approved flexible shields

[Rasmus]

http://i.imgur.com/QoDHGa9.jpg
Started on the wiring harness. Just stripping off the outer sheathing. Intimidating looking at all those wires. I suppose once I remove the ABS, Airbag/SRS, Window, and Lock wires it'll be easier to get my head around.

http://i.imgur.com/YxfmWJk.jpg
Unfortunately, most of the day I dedicated to the German car. :( I swear, if FFR based their kits around German cars they'd go out of business in 18 months. So. Hard. To. Work on.

[longislandwrx]

I once volunteered to help my fried do an oil change and front brakes on his Passat. never again.

plastic dipstick and tube crumbled in my hand, brake pad sensor self destructed. I went to 3 VW dealers, the third finally had the parts/ was open on saturday,

"oh that happens all the time, make sure no big pieces of it got down into the motor, you should probably drop the pan"

me: what? "yeah we don't touch them, we just add the right amount of oil"

in conclusion


sorry for your pain

[Scargo]

I love our Bimmer. A 2010 535XI with M package. Turbocharged... It scares the hell out of me when I open the hood. A sea of plastic! I changed a running light in the front and it was all I could do to get my hand in there. I thought I would have to start disassembling the front end to change the bulb.
I now know my '08 STi pretty much inside and out. I don't want to know about the Bimmer...

[RM1SepEx]

I love working on my Bimmer, so easy... it is a 91 E30 convertible tho!

[Rasmus]

http://i.imgur.com/UX20eAo.jpg
Removed most all of the sheathing on the chassis' main harness. Didn't get to the engine (in black bin) or intake manifold harnesses (not pictured). I stuffed what I think is the airbag/SRS chassis side harness in the small box on the left there.

[Hindsight]

Nice. I JUST finished pulling all my wiring out and am sitting down for lunch before I head back out and get the last remaining thing from the donor: the fuel tank. Then it's chop chop and off to the scrapper.

I'll be watching your wiring progress closely. Do you have any de-pin type tools? If so, where is a good place to get them?

[RM1SepEx]

don't bother, no one has found a good working pin tool, cut and splice as needed

[metalmaker12]

Re pining looks nice though

[BryceJ]

Are the pin removal tools referenced in this PDF (http://techinfo.subaru.com/proxy/60786/pdf/060786-059201-J-4760668812.pdf) useful for these wiring harnesses?

[xxguitarist]

We were doing the same thing today. Separated the ABS/SRS from the harness & engine harness, then deleted all door stuff, shorting the door switches, and deleted all the radio/clock/ac bits, too.

[fzust]

You can run whatever tires you want in Prepared and Mod, provided they don't explode or are unsafe. You could make your own if you want to.

[Rasmus]

http://i.imgur.com/QSFuTc7.jpg?1
Arrived home today and the garage door wouldn't open. Unfortunately the S.O. arrived before I did. She said, "I tried it like 10 times outside and it wouldn't go up, so I went inside and tried it a dozen more. Nothings blocking it so I don't know what's wrong." Looks like the poor garage door opener just about ripped it's mount out of the door frame trying to lift the door on a broken spring. :( So there were go.

I get to replace both torsion springs and also repair the mounting location for the garage door opening arm.

[AZPete]

Ugh. If you replace the spring yourself, be careful!!

[wleehendrick]

34753

[Hindsight]

Ugh! The spring looks so new too. I recently had to replace my entire door and spring as well. One of the few jobs I chose to call in a pro for. They are cheap. Good luck.

[Scargo]

Shorten the other side an equal amount and make it into a "high-performance" door opener. Sorry...

[Mechie3]

I used a small precision screwdriver to depin. Works for everything except the ecu connectors.

[Jaime]

The energy tied up in a wound garage door spring is quite substantial. I always get the type in the enclosed tube that you preload with a drill after it's installed.

34756

[Bob_n_Cincy]

When I was a kid. I was working on a car in the garage (under the living room) when one of the cable, spring, pulley types let loose.
It was so loud that my parent (in living room) thought the car fell on me.
Bob

[rtz]

RE: Garage door springs.

Lots of good info, video's, and parts: http://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instructions/replace-garage-door-torsion-springs.php

[RM1SepEx]

When I was a kid. I was working on a car in the garage (under the living room) when one of the cable, spring, pulley types let loose.
It was so loud that my parent (in living room) thought the car fell on me.
Bob
\
One of mine let go a couple months ago... new steel insulated doors are on order, current doors almost 29 years old

That noise when it pops was very frightening!

[Rasmus]

http://i.imgur.com/aXM7Q5K.jpg
Ordered two new springs for the garage door from Amazon. One left wound, one right wound. Was about to order a set of winding bars, but at ~$20 for one, need two, I figured I could make my own and save $40. So custom welded up two garage spring winding bars. 18" long with 1/2" rebar. I've tried unwinding garage springs before with just 1/2" rebar and it gets super sketchy with the rebar bending. So I beefed 'em up with some rusty old angle iron my kid found in the desert. So, garage springs all unwound. Body safe. I'm sure glad I haven't had shoulder surgery in the past year because that might have really tested the rehab. ;)

http://i.imgur.com/UfD7vZ1.jpg
And this surprised me. 4.533 kg for full steering column. I'm gonna need to find a way to reduce this considerably, because that is a bunch of mass.

[Harley818]

you could use all that weight you have been saving as a counterweight....... just saying....

[MrDude_1]

You know I see you on here almost everyday... but its been 5 days and no update? Unacceptable.

lol, seriously though, i just popped in because I had an idea about your column weight. How much of that weight is for the column key lock? not the switch itself, but the lock to keep the wheel from turning, and brackets to brace that lock? between that and replacing the tilt mechanism with a simple bracket, you can probably cut most of that mass off. You shouldn't need tilt once its at your preferred height, plus the wheel comes off to get in and out, right?

[Rasmus]

You know I see you on here almost everyday... but its been 5 days and no update? Unacceptable.
I'm totally slackin' here. :rolleyes:

Nah. Just bad planning.

I've got currently five projects up in the air.

Garage door repair (springs arrive today)
Transmission speedo gear & lsd install (speedo gear on order at local Subaru Dealer)
Short block build ( rotating assembly at machine shop )
Steering column install (parts arriving today)
Subie Invasion 2014 Group Drive Rally-master (http://subieinvasion.com/) (on going)



I find if I get too many things going I get over whelmed and don't want to do anything. 5 is pushing it for me. But it's, honestly, just bad planning. I tend to go in waves of 1. plan 2. order parts/service 3. fabricate-install. Problem is when I get to fabricate-install I tend to do everything on my plate until I've got nothing to do and haven't planned anything or ordered anything. I came to complete halt with everything in the order phase.

[Hindsight]

Better to have that than the far more common problem of ordering a bunch of stuff that you then never install.

[longislandwrx]

Subie Invasion 2014 Group Drive Rally-master (http://subieinvasion.com/)

best link posted to date.

[Pearldrummer7]

Any significant weight savings from the new garage door springs over the old ones? ;)

[Rasmus]

http://i.imgur.com/gSSvadS.jpg
The steering column. From 4,533 kg to 1,955 kg. Some of that I'll need to add back in for the indicators, ignition, start, and accessory switches. Also the key and it's RFID reader. So for final install I probably shaved 2.5 - 2.4 kg. Which is heeps.

http://i.imgur.com/KyCA8OL.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/RLG0pNz.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/3eyHDUC.jpg
That's a M22x1.5 rod end holding up the steering column now. Notice how I hollowed out the threaded portion to save weight. I think I might have a condition.

http://i.imgur.com/GB3RDve.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/vD0HcMJ.jpg

[Rasmus]

http://i.imgur.com/h8xYqwK.jpg
Cut down and reused the factory lower bearing to pass the column through the fire wall

http://i.imgur.com/tZw8o35.jpg
I'll need to replace that zip tie with a metal hose screw clamp. Wouldn't want that to slip out.

http://i.imgur.com/AGininJ.jpg
Garage door update! I ordered the wrong springs!

[xatudor]

I can see at least 10 threads not being used on that rod end. I'm surprised you haven't cut them off to save a bit more weight.

[Santiago]

Very cool OEM column mods! If I wasn't thinking that others may need to quickly adjust controls (think "enduro") I'd probably go this route.

[Boog]

How well does the column fit within the rod end? Did you add some sort of bushing?

I wouldn't be surprised if in a couple weeks you decide to make yourself a new frame out of thinner chrome-moly and build a diet 717 instead.

[Rasmus]

How well does the column fit within the rod end? Did you add some sort of bushing?

http://i.imgur.com/4A21N0f.jpg
It needed a shim. Two 0.008" shims or my method of one 0.016" shim locked in place between the two shaft collars.

[Boog]

Very cool.

[Mitch Wright]

Nice work, now I have an option to my 3/4 4130 tub shaft I plan on fabing up.

[Rasmus]

http://i.imgur.com/QteOAjl.jpg
Intimidating.

http://i.imgur.com/uqfr2Xx.jpg
This is the first time I've ever cracked open a transmission. Awe, wonder, and excitement mixed with a little bit of sick. And there's no shiny metal bits in the bottom. Getting the speedo gear in looks straight forward. LSD's gonna be a learning experience.

[Hindsight]

From what I've read, the diff swap is fairly easy. The tricky part is checking the lash. I'll be following your steps closely since I will be opening my case as well.

[MrDude_1]

While that cover is off... I'll just leave this here...http://www.subarugears.com/Casing.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXEUSVSpGHg

[Rasmus]

I'll just leave this here...
I like the way you think Dude.

As much as I would love to do that, I probably won't. I'm worried about losing mounts for the transmission, compromising the structural integrity of the transmission case for the two remaining mounts, plus I need to keep several mounting holes for the cable shifter. I've also learned that trying to cut weight by shaving cast aluminum is low reward for the large amount of time invested.

[Tamra]

The LSD install was not as bad as we thought it would be, although it was time consuming (probably around 8 hours total to open the case, sand blast the case, install the lsd, set the lash, and close it up. We posted links in our donor thread here (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14362-Picked-up-our-STI-hybrid-swap-donor-today!&p=172415&viewfull=1#post172415) to where we found other forum members "how to's." The Subaru factory manual is also great with diagrams showing the grease contact patches and how to adjust to get the right back lash.

[Jaime]

Keep your eye on the bearing at the gear end of the pinion. If you bolt the cases together and the pin on the bearing isn't in it's home, you could do some serious damage to the case halves.

[Mechie3]

I cut that back piece off. Forget how much it weight. You do need to figure out something else. There's a guy (D Clymer?) on the Vanagon webside that has a chopped down rear with a plate welded on it with two studs for mounting. It's $400 though.

[Rasmus]

http://i.imgur.com/6ks5IvA.jpg (http://imgur.com/6ks5IvA)
Ring gear came off the factory open differential easy.

http://i.imgur.com/WvirqTz.jpg
Right side bearing pressed off easy. Having trouble getting the left side bearing off. I don't know how to do it without destroying it.

[D Clary]

Buy a new bearing, life is to short.

[Jaime]

http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,catalog,13,partnum,30208,d,NATIONAL_30208.html

[Rasmus]

http://i.imgur.com/G4AhMlo.jpg
Got the hypoid gear ring side bearing off the open differential without damaging it. Thanks Andrew. Cleaned and installed both bearings on the torque biased differential. Quaife brand.

http://i.imgur.com/xIShMua.jpg
Correct garage door springs arrived. Installed! Works! It's glorious.

[longislandwrx]

http://i.imgur.com/G4AhMlo.jpg

plus you are left with a free meat grinder! BBQ in Vegas next spring!

[Pearldrummer7]

35192
Just my $0.02- Careful with those shims (highlighted in your photo, attached). They bend very easily and if they're off you might not have good engagement on the pinion gear.

[Hindsight]

Very cool! Any reason you wanted to re-use the bearings instead of get new ones since they are so cheap? Timeline, cost? Maybe new bearings would require more lash adjustment?

[xxguitarist]

We re-used them since OEM is around $60 ea.
Still had to adjust the axial position of the front LSD, but since the ring/pinion are the same, the shims at the end of the gear shaft were good to go.

[Rasmus]

I reused them because they looked fine. Races weren't discolored from heat. No pitting. No scoring. Just the normal marks you see on a bearing race. The bearings themselves looked good too. No pitting, scoring, or rainbow colors. While I could have spent $45-$50 for two new bearing sets, I didn't see a reason to spend that money and wait for the delivery. I also repacked and reused all my wheel bearings.

Plus Andrew reused his so I gave in to peer pressure. :p

[Hindsight]

Guess I am obligated to do the same then, that is, if my Quaife ever arrives. I ordered it in June.

[FFRSpec72]

http://i.imgur.com/h8xYqwK.jpg



You forgot to put back the endcap on the steering shaft (where the seal is) :-(

[Rasmus]

You forgot to put back the endcap on the steering shaft
Thanks for helping me out with something I may have done incorrectly, but you've got me at a loss. Got a picture of what I'm missing? I don't know what that is.

[Hindsight]

On mine there is a white plastic piece that looks like it covers the 1" large-diameter section of column in the pic above, right where it exits that rubber bushing. Maybe it's a year-specific thing? I can take a pic of mine when I get home this evening.

[FFRSpec72]

On mine there is a white plastic piece that looks like it covers the 1" large-diameter section of column in the pic above, right where it exits that rubber bushing. Maybe it's a year-specific thing? I can take a pic of mine when I get home this evening.

Yep that's the piece, I don't have a picture with me to post, not sure it does much except keep the dirt/water/etc. out. I have seen these on 2002/3/4 models, not sure about later models. It may have fallen off or been removed.

[Hindsight]

Mine's an 07 so definitely is there on the later models. Will post a pic tonight.

[Santiago]

On mine there is a white plastic piece that looks like it covers the 1" large-diameter section of column in the pic above, right where it exits that rubber bushing. Maybe it's a year-specific thing? I can take a pic of mine when I get home this evening.

Also have the same on mine - damn thing does pop off rather easily though; it's just lightly pressed in there. Mine is an 05-07 column, so should be same as Hindisight. I'll post a pic of it if it's any different though.

Honestly, I was planning on removing it anyway...none of the FFR cars seem to run it.

Best,
-j

[Hindsight]

Might save 5 grams of weight by removing it but gain 3 grams per year in grime :cool:

[MrDude_1]

Might save 5 grams of weight by removing it but gain 3 grams per year in grime :cool:

If it does, you can utilize the WD40 and rag weight reduction system. With the R-version cowl installed, can you still reach there easily?

[Rasmus]

Hows my tooth engagement look?

http://i.imgur.com/xKzrz5o.jpg

[Hindsight]

Looks pretty good to me. Did you have to adjust anything at all?

Here are the pics of the bushing:
http://i.imgur.com/7WKR2Pw.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/RqKHPBb.jpg

[Jaime]

Hows my tooth engagement look?

I switched to yellow because it's hard to see the pattern in Prussian Blue. What's the other face look like?

[Rasmus]

Here's a better version of the ring and pinion engagement pattern.

http://i.imgur.com/VSp2toA.jpg
Drive Side

http://i.imgur.com/WrBRDrx.jpg
Coast Side.

[Rasmus]

Looks pretty good to me. Did you have to adjust anything at all?

Here are the pics of the bushing:

Thanks for the pictures of the bushing I'm missing. My donor didn't come with that.


As far as the Ring and Pinion, no, I didn't adjust anything. I just dropped the output shaft and differential back in after swapping to the T.B. differential and checked the pattern. I feel like I'm really lucking out with this transmission. Everything just seems too easy. I'm suspicious, I'm missing something.

[xxguitarist]

Did you use Dykem?
We used a non-drying blue grease (http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80038-Prussian-Blue-Tube/dp/B000HBM86Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414544682&sr=8-1&keywords=prussian+blue). Lets you get a lot of rotations, and not have the odd double wear pattern?

Also, just to double check, you torqued down the transmission case halves & the bearing plate at rear for the pattern?

[Rasmus]

Yep, Dykem, the 'normal' kind.

[Rasmus]

Figured out what the Factory Service Manual wanted me to do, to measure the ring gears backlash.

http://i.imgur.com/sXR6rf3.png
I just couldn't figure out where they wanted the roller ball to go. Plus it didn't mention that I need to 'lock' the pinion down to measure the backlash.

http://i.imgur.com/SiA5EFD.jpg
My rig.

http://i.imgur.com/MKkEkVc.jpg
Backlash: 0.008"-0.0085". Glad I measured too. Factory limits are: 0.0051"-0.0071" so I'm running a little sloppy. Reads like the FSM made a typo:

Each time holder rotates one tooth, backlash changes by 0.05 mm (0.020 in).
0.05mm = 0.0020". So if I adjust by one tooth total, backlash should drop to 0.006"-0.0065".

[Hindsight]

It doesn't look like you torqued down the transmission halves though..... did you? I don't see any bolts above. However, I also don't recall if the Shop Manual tells you to do that but it seems like you'd need to.

[Rasmus]

It doesn't look like you torqued down the transmission halves though..... did you? I don't see any bolts above. However, I also don't recall if the Shop Manual tells you to do that but it seems like you'd need to.

They're only six bolts holding my transmission cases halves together for this measurement. With maybe 20 ft-lb. The two "big ones" that surround the output shaft's bearing right near the pinion and the four that hold the back of output shaft to the back of the case near the shims. FSM didn't read that I needed to torque to spec the case halves before measuring, but that section of the FSM is seriously lacking in detail.

Moved the backlash adjusters half a tooth tighter each. For one tooth total. I found I could do half tooth adjustments if I just flipped the locking tab over.

http://i.imgur.com/kgaYAM8.jpg
Backlash measured at 0.006" now. Which is right in the middle of the FSM's spec (0.0051"-0.0071"). Nice. As far as 'feel', with the 0.008" I could feel the ring gear clunking into the pinion when I turned the output shaft with my hand. With 0.006" I can't feel it clunking.

http://i.imgur.com/xpTxhhe.jpg
Updated Drive-side tooth engagement pattern as a result of tightening up the backlash.

http://i.imgur.com/l9KbBPB.jpg
Updated Coast-side tooth engagement pattern as a result of tightening up the backlash.

[Hindsight]

Great info. I agree on FSM. Did you need the special tool to turn the backlash adjusters?

[Rasmus]

Did you need the special tool to turn the backlash adjusters?
No. Which is just bizarre to me. I'm getting so lucky with this transmission, I feel like it shouldn't be going this easy. Like I'm wasting all my hotroding luck on this one part. All I did was get one of my blunted screwdrivers with the most tip surface area, put that on one of the teeth and gave it a few small taps with a 5lb dead blow. 4 taps and I'd moved it 1/2 tooth.

I'm gonna torque to spec the case halves around the pumpkin. See if the backlash changes. Good thought there Hindsight. Let's see.

[Scargo]

How can you call it a frikin pumpkin? It's in a transaxle. JK. Relax...
The manual is seriously deficient in so many ways. I was trying to diagnose a center diff issue and read this wonderful Subaru English technical-speak:
"In MANUAL MODE, as the operation amount of DCCD control dial (driver’s will) is prioritized, the control that increases/decreases the engagement power of solenoid clutch LSD is performed."

I made an adjuster by just bolting two 1/4-20 bolts in a long plate to act as a wrench on the side-plates.
Don't forget about how it "feels" VS pre-load and the eventual thermal expansion of the aluminum VS that of the steel.

[Jaime]

Did you need the special tool to turn the backlash adjusters?
This $10 tool (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K5JT9O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) from Amazon works excellent for turning the side adjusters:

35222

[xxguitarist]

Did you torque the bearing plate bolts (4) at the back of the transmission? You mentioned a few other bolts, but can't see if these are present. Otherwise, everything looks good!

[Rasmus]

Well it's totally counter intuitive but by torquing down all the bolts to the FSM's specs, including the 4 bolts on the 'back' near the shims, the backlash grew by 0.0025". It actually spaced out the pumpkin more. So I turned the backlash teeth another 1/2 tooth tighter each and:

http://i.imgur.com/adP45fV.jpg
got 0.0065". Might just go one more half turn on the right side and get it down to 0.0055".

THANKS BIGTIME HINDSIGHT! If I had just run it as it sat without adjusting backlash I would have been running super loose at 0.0110". Way out of spec.

[Rasmus]

Okay. I think I finally got this licked.

http://i.imgur.com/yvU82Se.jpg
Tightened up the right side backlash 1/2 tooth more. Backlash down to 0.0055" with case torqued down. Within spec (0.0051"-0.0071").

http://i.imgur.com/4HrXkGd.jpg
Drive side tooth engagement pattern after the 1/2 tooth tightening with case torqued down to spec.

http://i.imgur.com/Hh6qFpk.jpg
Coast side tooth engagement pattern after

Looks like tomorrow I get to button this guy up.

[Tamra]

The engagement pattern still looks strange to me, but the numbers shouldn't lie I would think. Perhaps the pattern is off because of the Dykem.

Which LSD did you go with?

[Scargo]

Looks good to me. Do you have the pre-load dialed in per the manual?

[Rasmus]

Looks good to me. Do you have the pre-load dialed in per the manual?
No. :confused: Should I be concerned about that? I only converted the output shaft to 2WD. I don't even own an inch-lb torque wrench.

Starting torque:
0.3 — 0.8 N ⋅ m (0.03 — 0.08 kgf-m, 0.2 — 0.6 ft-lb)
How does one measure 2.4 - 7.2 inch-lb and not have to invest in another expensive tool?

[MrDude_1]

No. :confused: Should I be concerned about that? I only converted the output shaft to 2WD. I don't even own an inch-lb torque wrench.

How does one measure 2.4 - 7.2 inch-lb and not have to invest in another expensive tool?

beam style torque wrenches are cheap.

[Boog]

Find something around that house/shop that weighs the right amount, say a .4 lbs hanging if your wrench is 12", and adjust until the perpendicular wrench just only droops with slightly more weight?
Free and probably accurate enough if you don't want to invest in a split beam.

[RM1SepEx]

harbor freight... 2.4 to 7.2 seems awfully low... are we talking about a plastic screw? my 1/4 drive has a low end of 20 inlbs I think!

[Scargo]

I have inch pound tools, but how about an electronic fish scale? I don't think mine was very expensive.

[Rasmus]

Find something around that house/shop that weighs the right amount, say a .4 lbs hanging if your wrench is 12", and adjust until the perpendicular wrench just only droops with slightly more weight
Interesting idea.

I think a wrench just free hanging by itself would be applying more torque than 7.2 inch-lb.

[Jaime]

I think he was talking about the preload on the side roller bearing that are loaded by turning the right adjuster in one notch beyond just touching. The bearing that you adjust the starting torque to 0.2-0.6 ft-lbs will never rotate with the 2WD coupler installed. It's between the pinion and the driven gears, which we lock together.

[Boog]

Interesting idea.

I think a wrench just free hanging by itself would be applying more torque than 7.2 inch-lb.

I suppose you would have to add in 50% the weight of your wrench to start with.


I think he was talking about the preload on the side roller bearing that are loaded by turning the right adjuster in one notch beyond just touching. The bearing that you adjust the starting torque to 0.2-0.6 ft-lbs will never rotate with the 2WD coupler installed. It's between the pinion and the driven gears, which we lock together.

I like this idea better.

[Scargo]

Yes, that preload:
13) Turn in the retainer on the upper side additionally by one notch in order to apply preload on taper roller bearing.

This is after the "zeroing" which seems rather arbitrary and to be just by feel... and is up to you to decide what zero is. Don't forget to beat on it with the hammer. :rolleyes: That's in the manual, too.

[MrDude_1]

Don't forget to beat on it with the hammer. :rolleyes: That's in the manual, too.
35258

[RM1SepEx]

35258

classic!

[Scargo]

With you obsessive, anorexic car modding behavior, why have you not removed the center upper steel that runs between the seats? I see no need for it. Anything that is home there can be covered with aluminum sheet and that attached to the steel below. I think one person has done this.

[MrDude_1]

With you obsessive, anorexic car modding behavior, why have you not removed the center upper steel that runs between the seats? I see no need for it. Anything that is home there can be covered with aluminum sheet and that attached to the steel below. I think one person has done this.

The tunnel bars are a load bearing part of the chassis design. It adds torsional stiffness.

[RM1SepEx]

The tunnel bars are a load bearing part of the chassis design. It adds torsional stiffness.

nope, can't be they just "float"

[Scargo]

They are not even "boxed in" on each end. Might add some flexural resistance, front to rear, but I doubt it's needed at all given the stiff box (around the passengers) that's already there in an R.

[Rasmus]

With you obsessive, anorexic car modding behavior, why have you not removed the center upper steel that runs between the seats?

I need to figure out how I'm gonna mount the shifter. We'll see if the bars stay or go, once I get that sorted.

I have have to disagree with the Dude. I don't think the 'tunnel' bars add any significant rigidity to an 818 chassis. They've got two 90 degree joints that are welded together. They aren't even braced off or triangulated with anything.

[MrDude_1]

I must be thinking of the wrong bars. Anyone have a picture?

[Rasmus]

http://i.imgur.com/w2lz0j7.jpg
Need to add the speedo gear to this boss on the right side of the transmission case. If I don't my ECU will put my car in limp mode.

http://i.imgur.com/c5XLrnf.jpg
So I bought a bunch of small parts from Subaru. Two cost around $75 a piece. So even with my discount this lump of parts cost over $200. =(


Install order:
Speedo Sensor = 85082AE000
Seal = 806712100
upper snap ring = 805012020
washer = 803012060
Shaft = 32713AA002
Transmission Case
Gear = 32714AA190
lower snap ring = 031512000


http://i.imgur.com/6U2b4mz.jpg
This little, plastic, 30 tooth, gear cost $80.

http://i.imgur.com/v2tgFgz.jpg
But everything installed easy.

[Rasmus]

http://i.imgur.com/6AOzK0u.jpg
Transmission getting ready to go back together.

http://i.imgur.com/yUPuH4J.jpg
Dribbled "Smurf's Blood" on everything (Red Line 58404 Lightweight Shockproof Gear Oil) and made double sure the two front bearings on the both shafts were sitting correctly on their pins so the case wouldn't crack when I torque it back together.

http://i.imgur.com/Ufx3hny.jpg
Now this was supposed to be the picture where I show you guys my transmission all put back together and ready for install. But as I was cleaning up I found this part I failed to put back in. It and it's not like it's a little tiny screw or something. The FSM calls it the "Main Shaft Rear Plate" and it's huge. It's hilarious I forget to put it back in. :D

[Hindsight]

Hahahah good thing you caught it now! Nice work on the transmission. Seems like installing the diff is a little more complicated than I had thought it would be. Not too bad though.

[xxguitarist]

Oops! At least you don't have to split the case halves for it!

[Frank818]

Rasmus, did you go to the F1 GP in Austin this w-e? Might be a couple of interesting lightweight ideas over there. :)

[Rasmus]

Nope. Watched it on TV. Coverage on NBC was commercial-riffic!

[Mechie3]

I don't think those bars add much stiffness. They're in the center of the car so if it's twisting front to back it's right on the axis of twist. The closer to the axis the less stiffness it provides. They're narrow, thin walled, and can be flexed apart by hand.

[JeromeS13]

It looks like Factory Five removed them from their latest R project:

35361

[longislandwrx]

Nope. Watched it on TV. Coverage on NBC was commercial-riffic!

At least during commercials you could kind of see what was happening on the left. Even on a 55" inch TV the video was pretty small.

A good race though... If Rosberg had shaved off his amazing hair, he probably would have had those 2 seconds.

[Hindsight]

You ok Rasmus? Over a month since your last post. Hope all is well and the build is coming along.

[Rasmus]

Oooo boy do I have issues. :( Personal life aside...

http://i.imgur.com/7Y47ZZ7.jpg
Opened the trans back up and installed the input shaft thrust plate I forgot to put in there the first time 'round.

http://i.imgur.com/WRrYEqo.jpg
Getting ready to assemble the short block. Lots of cleaning and measuring going on.
Top piston rings gapped at .020" Per JE Pistons instructions for these pistons for this application.
2nd piston rings gapped at .022" once again per JE.
Rod bearing clearances measured (with bore gauges and micrometers accurate to .00005") to be .0012". Found the King XP (?) rod bearings to not have much variation between them. Only had to to do one swap of bearing sets from Rod 1 and 4 to get .0012" clearance on all. Otherwise it would have been .00115", .0012", .0012", .00125". (1 ---> 4).

http://i.imgur.com/cqlGWWo.jpg
Used a rod bolt stretch gauge to get the rod bolts on correctly. Probably the most critical fasteners to get correct in a high spinning motor. Glad I did too. My rods came with ARP's L19 Rod Bolts (Yes, I used gloves. Yes, I wiped 'em off with acetone. Yes, I coated them in oil and lube). 3/8-24 thread. 1.6 inch grip length. ARP recommended that I install the bolts so that they stretched .0055" - .006". And even with ARP's special fastener lube I found that each bolt needed varying amounts of torque to stretch properly. Two only needed 47.5 ft-lb. On two others I stopped using the torque wrench at 55 ft-lb and just tightened each one up ~ 15 degrees and remeasured until they stretched .006" exactly. I see why ARP recommends using stretch instead of torque to set these correct. 6 of my 8 rod bolts would have been under stretched if I had just gone by torque alone.

[STiPWRD]

He's back!

[Tamra]

Welcome back!!!!

[Scargo]

Holy guacamole Batman! Now I have another thing to do... I found this about tightening rod bolts (http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/116-0609-using-rod-bolt-stretch-tool/), like you are doing. Since I may go to 9K, I best pay attention! Thanks...

While you were AWOL I assumed your role as "master lightner". I hate to bring this up, but with my DOM steel tubing, front LCAs, I will knock off three pounds per side over the aluminum STi LCAs I have. Of course it took using straws to accomplish it.
It's great to have you back. Your insight is invaluable. Next time do not vacation for so long without notice. We started to worry.

[metalmaker12]

You don't do that and boom! Good tip

[Mitch Wright]

Welcome back

[Hindsight]

Great to have you back Rasmus!

[metros]

I've been wondering about your build for awhile. Glad to see you back at it.

For those of us not in the know, why is it so important to glove up, acetone, and re-oil the L19 bolts?

[Rasmus]

Thanks everyone for the welcoming back!


For those of us not in the know, why is it so important to glove up, acetone, and re-oil the L19 bolts?

You know I don't really know if it's true or not but apparently the following is quoted from ARP's catalog:


PAGE 19
20. How does L19 compare to ARP2000?
L19 differs from ARP2000 in that it is a vacuum melted
alloyed steel with sufficient chromium and carbon to achieve
high hardness (but below the level of a stainless steel). L19 is
air-cooled from the hardening temperature in a way that does
not require an oil quench to achieve full hardness and is tempered to assure full conversion to martensite between 1025°F
and 1075˚F. L19 is a proprietary material capable of achieving
strengths of 220,000/230,000 or 260,000/270,000 psi as may
be required. Both L19 and ARP2000 steels are modified bcc
(martensite) at room temperature. L19 has the same advantage as ARP2000 in that a high strength is obtained at a high
tempering temperature. This alloy is easily contaminated and
requires special handling.

PAGE 20
L19: This is a premium steel that is processed to deliver superior strength
and fatigue properties. L19 is a very high strength material compared to
8740 and ARP2000 and is capable of delivering a clamp load at 260,000
psi. It is primarily used in short track and drag racing applications where
inertia loads exceed the clamping capability of ARP2000. Like most high
strength, quench and temper steels – L19 requires special care during
manufacturing to avoid hydrogen embrittlement. This material is easily
contaminated and subject to stress corrosion. It must be kept well-oiled
and not exposed to moisture.

Emphasis is my own.

So it's kind of confusing to me that these are some of the highest clamping load steel alloy rod bolts on the market but, "don't touch 'em or they'll eventually shatter". :confused: Anyway, it was easy enough to glove up and then rub off/displace any water that might have come from my hands or the environment with acetone. Then apply ARP lube on the shaft and threads and dip the head in motor oil. Then I just made sure to only handle them with gloves as I measured 'em and stretched 'em out. Then reapplied oil to the exposed bolt heads and tips after I got them stretched proper. No licking.

[RM1SepEx]

Brings me back over 30 years to advanced metallurgy classes...

Crystal structure and metallic composition. The hydrogen in the water bonds with the metal and it forms a sort of growth into the metal, these areas with higher amts of hydrogen (migrated from the water molecules) are not strong, are more brittle.

Everyone knows how surface finish and shape changes can cause stress risers leading to failure, some materials are subject to degradation due to contamination and this particular composition has an affinity for the hydrogen in water.

Steel oxidizes and forms rust, weaker than the original material. Aluminum oxidizes and it's oxides are harder than the original alloy. That's why welding aluminum is such a pain, the base melts, the oxide sits there as a crust...

how many realize that you torque a bolt to stretch it beyond the stress that it is expected to see in the application? If you don't it could get loose during use and leak or fail due to changing the mode of loading

That's why we buy service manuals and follow directions

Edit: another thought, stainless is developed for the opposite reason, higher resistance to corrosion, many are weaker alloys that std steels. Those rod bolts are extremely strong, they are suseptable to corrosion but are used in a favorable environment for the alloy, just don't get them wet during assembly

[Harley818]

Hi Rasmus,
Did you miss us or was it Scargo's blatant lightening efforts getting close to your own that brought you back!
glad to see you back. Your comments are usually right on.

[metros]

Interesting stuff. This is why I make sure to check this thread frequently. It has scientific information that I don't come across on my own.

Plus I want to see what else he's cutting off to lighten the final product.

[Rasmus]

Interesting stuff. This is why I make sure to check this thread frequently. It has scientific information that I don't come across on my own.
I stand on the back's of giants, Metros. Without them I wouldn't have the incredible view.

http://i.imgur.com/1rMyeZi.jpg
Split the case again to install the main crankshaft bearings so I could get a bore gauge in there. Getting consistent readings on a bore gauge that's supposed to be accurate to 0.00005" takes a bit of effort for an amateur, like myself.

Did all this so I could calculate the mains' bearing clearances. Didn't want to trust plastigauge. Using bunches of measurements for the crankshaft and several for the main bore w/bearings my oil clearance are calculated to be:

#1 ---> .00165"
#2 ---> .0019"
#3 ---> .00165"
#4 ---> .0019"
#5 ---> .00165"

According to research done by King Bearings (click to nerd out) (http://kingbearings.com/files/Geometry_and_Dimensional_Tolerances_of_Engine_Bear ings.pdf), main Journal clearance for a 2.3625" diameter should be:

0.0012"--->0.0024" for a daily driver passenger car or
0.0018"--->0.0035" for a "High performance" car

So it looks like I'm running a little tight on 1, 3, & 5 for my high performance application. But well within the specs for a car. 1, 3, & 5 are also the bearings that feed the rod bearings oil.

Quoting from the above linked, King Bearing, white paper:


Oil clearance
The basic geometrical parameter of an engine bearing is the oil clearance - the difference
between the inside diameter of the bearing installed in the housing and the diameter of
the journal (the inside bearing diameter is measured at 90° to the parting line).
Oil clearance should have an optimal value providing the desirable combination of the
lubrication parameters.
Higher oil clearance causes an increase of the oil flow passing through the bearing and
resulting in a lower oil temperature rise. However higher clearance produces less uniform
distribution of the oil pressure - greater peak pressure, which increases the probability of
the bearing material fatigue. Minimum oil film thickness decreases at higher pressure and
may cause direct metal-to-metal contact between the mating surfaces. Too much
clearance produces excessive vibration and noise.

Lower oil clearance results in a more uniform oil film pressure distribution and a greater
oil film thickness, however too small clearance causes overheating the oil and a sharp
drop of its viscosity.
High performance bearings produced by King Engine Bearings offer a wide selection of
undersizes so that is is easy to achieve the desired oil clearance.
Typical values of oil clearance C :
Passenger cars:
Cmin = 0.0005*D
Cmax = 0.001*D
High performance cars:
Cmin = 0.00075*D
Cmax = 0.0015*D
Where D = the journal diameter.

Bolding is my own.

So if I just run them as they sit the oil will tend to get hotter at a track day than one might like. But for AutoX, or driving to a show-n-shine I should be fine.

[Scargo]

Anel 2 to Anel 1: What was the temperature when you miked everything? Did you have the crank and case inspected for roundness and straightness? I've had discussions about cases. New vs used and non-stock bolts and torque specs. To line hone the mains or not. What pump will you run and are all passages/transitions stock? I can't remember everything you've done...
Why not consider scraping the two tighter bearings?

[Rasmus]

What was the temperature when you miked everything? 72°f when measuring the bearings. 76°f when measuring the crank journals. So the clearances will read a little tighter. By how much, I don't know.


Did you have the crank and case inspected for roundness and straightness? Yes. Both case parting lines were milled down by .0025" and the main line honed back out to straight and round, with a 2.5203" diameter.


Why not consider scraping the two tighter bearings? I have three tighter bearings. 1, 3, & 5. I could sand the backs of them and try to open them up a little. I really don't look forward to doing that. It's a lot of work torquing the case halves together. I'm gonna get out there this morning and re-measure the bores again.

[Scargo]

I know what I said, but what I meant was sand the backs of the bearings.

[Rasmus]

Upon a remeasuring I found out where I ****ed up.

http://i.imgur.com/3vxehfY.jpg

Bearings 2 & 4 don't have an obvious groove for oil in them like 1, 3, or 5 do. So the first time, I just measured the bore right in the middle of 2 & 4. Don't do that. 2 & 4 have a slight dish to them. The middle of the 2 & 4 bearings measure at 2.3644" while the edges of the same measure at 2.36405". A difference of 0.00035". So there's a slight valley in the middle of those two bearings, and I assume that's by design. You can't perceive it with the naked eye or by touch. It makes total sense to me that you've have a valley in there to distribute oil equally to the full circumference. By way of comparison, human hair varies from 0.00067" to 0.00709" diameter. So the valley in these bearings is less than half width of the thinnest human hair or about 9% the width of average human hair.

Remeasuring puts my main bearing clearances at:
#1 ---> .00165"
#2 ---> .00165"
#3 ---> .00165"
#4 ---> .00165"
#5 ---> .00165"

Accurate to .00005"

Damn. I didn't think they'd be so close. I have to give major props to Dale at Motion Machine and his superb machine work. Also to King Bearings for their excellent quality control. Wow.

[Rasmus]

That sorted, time to put the short block together.

Like Andrew and Tamra (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?16067-Andrew-amp-Tamra-s-818SR-EM-Autox-Hybrid-Destroked-Long-Rod-Build), I'm building a long-rod, destroker using:
a 75mm crankshaft
+4 mm longer rods
piston wrist pin bores moved up +2 mm

Doing so requires one to do some goofy things to get the wrist pins in. You have to assemble it completely out of order from the FSM.

http://i.imgur.com/veXN3bQ.jpg
First you put the pistons in with the case halves separate.

http://i.imgur.com/nFT4atz.jpg
Second, set the crankshaft in the right case half. Rod bolts stretched proper and and ready to go. Place shims on the parting face. I used .125" (3mm) aluminium bar stock. You could probably get away with just using paper folded to 3 - 4 mm thick.

http://i.imgur.com/Hz0JiAI.jpg
Third, set the left case half on to your shims lining up your dowels. I temporarily, clamped the halves together. You could probably use just 2 case bolts to gently hold the assembly together (< 1 ft-lb of torque) You have to flip the case at least twice. Don't want those pretty mating surfaces dinging each other up. Don't want your spacers falling out.

http://i.imgur.com/8xWqAKB.jpg
Fourth, the "fun" part. Getting the wrist pins in and insuring the wrist pin c-clips are fully seated. I did them it in this order:

Piston 2
Flip case
Piston 1
Rotate crankshaft 180
Piston 3
Flip Case
Piston 4

Took me the better part of 2 hours, for just this step. Never let a mechanical part know you're in a hurry.

http://i.imgur.com/e6NUANb.jpg
Step Five, take picture. Continued tomorrow...

[xxguitarist]

Step 6: Have fun with the hondabond or whatever RTV you're using.. Assembly lube everywhere, can't have it get in the way of the RTV, and can only split the cases by a couple inches.. Fun.

Looks great, glad to have you back & active.

[Harley818]

Nice work Rasmus.
I know how much work it was to get the wrist pins in on my stock arrangement. With the shims and flipping, I'm sure there were some choice words flowing.
Good luck with the sealing of the block....just like Tamra said.

[metros]

Rasmus - It's summer now. Come back to update your 818 build. Inquiring minds want to know.

[longislandwrx]

Rasmus - It's summer now. Come back to update your 818 build. Inquiring minds want to know.

have you been to Vegas in the summer? he's hibernating until fall.

[metros]

Actually never been to Vegas. He installed AC in his garage. He should be good.

[Frank818]

The A/C is probably broken, so back to hibernating. :)

[Rasmus]

Have you ever been so mad that you stopped doing what you loved, let your tools get rusty, and didn't return for 6 months. While gaining 20 lbs?

http://i.imgur.com/nPMdLcJ.jpg
I have.

http://i.imgur.com/GnqUtc3.jpg
Putting the shortblock together the "upper" bearing half on main #2 fell out of the its bore and wedged between the lower main #2 bearing and crankshaft. I thought the case halves were just stuck on the dowels like they were so many times before. I readjusted not knowing why the cases were really stuck. Cranked a bit on the case bolts to see if I could get it over the hump and get the halves mated before the Permatex set. Ruined my custom machined block. It never turned one revolution.

In my adult life, I have never been so mad. When I discovered what I'd done I threw a sheet over the mess, walked into the house, and tried not to puke. That's how mad I got. I felt dizzy, and wanted to vomit.

6 months later, I'm ready to face it, 20 lbs heavier.

Next block, I'm red lock-tite-ing the bearing backs to the case before final assembly.

[C.Plavan]

Screw it. Welcome back!

[Rasmus]

Thanks.

The way I had the steering shaft mounted before allowed too much leverage from the driver. I could see the shaft bending from just sitting in the car going, "Vroom. Vroom."

http://i.imgur.com/uzOCdls.jpg
Fabbed up a new upper mount for the steering shaft closer to the steering wheel. Cut the old one out. Took inspiration from the WRC cars.

http://i.imgur.com/RTNQdjo.jpg
Top down view.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Welcome back Rasmus.
Great to see you back at it.
Bob

[mikeb75]

Really sorry about your block. If you're not having fun it's not worth doing!

Glad you're back

[Pearldrummer7]

Sorry to hear about the block. Glad you're back. We need a frame of reference for "really light 818".

It's worth all the effort/struggles!

[longislandwrx]

Have you ever been so mad that you stopped doing what you loved, let your tools get rusty, and didn't return for 6 months. While gaining 20 lbs?



This helps EVERY time.

http://disneyjunior.disney.com/mad

welcome back man.

[STiPWRD]

We missed you

[Hindsight]

Good to have you back! I can imagine how frustrated you must have been after all that time and money on the engine build. I think we've all been there in one way or the other. Glad you are back!

[svanlare]

I think we all feel for you, I know I hate that Oh-S*** moment when I realize what went wrong. Welcome back.

[MrDude_1]

welcome back!
I also know the feeling... imagine being a 17 year old high school senior. every penny you made for the last 10 months, and all your time goes into making this 400sbc for your camaro. The camaro itself has every penny you made for the last 5 years (started saving before high school)

and it gets broken into at a football game at school.
and it gets the interior trashed, stuff stolen, and even the new edelbrock carb stolen.

and then to top it off... when you get some insurance money and try to get it going again.... the 4 nuts and washers that held the carb on trash the entire motor.

i sold the car soon after... but looking back I learned so much working on it. Without that car, if I just had a reliable cheap car.... I wouldnt know how to work on anything.

yeah. life gets ****ty sometimes.


Yet because of it, here I am today doing everything from welding up custom frames to designing electronics... I wouldnt have the basic mechanical skills without that car. Never mind engine theory, fabrication, etc... I can trace all that back to "wanting to build a cool car in high school"

atleast you know how to measure bearings now.

[Rasmus]

Thank you all for the warm welcome back. Means a lot to me.

Ever since I installed my seat I had the nagging feeling like I still didn't fit in the car. I'm 6'0". Tall, but not circus tall. I'm running the stock fuel tank and have the Kirkey seat as far back as I can get it. It will, in fact, rub the firewall. The pedals are just too close. I knew I'd never be comfortable, so I committed to moving the entire pedal box forward.

The most clear issue moving the whole pedal box was going to be the clutch pedal. It'll hit the front lower a-arm if moved forward too much. So I needed to reduce that pedal's throw without shorting the pedal itself. The clutch pedal has a total of 5 7/8" of movement from full-out to full-in. I realized that my 2004 WRX clutch pedal has a bunch of space at the bottom of the throw where the clutch is fully disengaged but I can still press the pedal. I measured it at 2.25" movement from full-in until the clutch kisses the flywheel. I then calculated the clutch pedal movement ratio stock. 6.6:1 (11":1.666"). Then calculated the amount of length I would need to add to the clutch hydraulic plunger arm to reduce that ratio to 5.1:1. The lowest ratio on Wilwoods website for clutch pedals.

http://i.imgur.com/ic7vVVk.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/pF4g2Ii.jpg
Stock arm is 1.666" long (C to C). So I needed to lengthen the arm to 2.157". Needed to weld on more arm and this thing is 0.25" thick. The thickest my welder can do in one pass.

http://i.imgur.com/JPfaJHf.jpg?1
Reducing the pedal ratio to 5.1:1 and removing 1.75" from the bottom of the pedal throw allowed me to reduce the pedals total movement from 5 7/8" to 3 1/8" To be safe I used 1.75" instead of 2.25" removed from the bottom of the throw. Didn't want the clutch to constantly rub the flywheel. In total, I removed 2.75" of throw. Pictured above is the pedal stop I made to eliminate that movement. It's mounted in double shear with three 1/8" rivets.

[Hindsight]

Nice thinking outside the box! So far everyone else has focused on moving the seat instead of the pedals.

Not sure if you saw this or not but FFR came out with a new tank. They'll give you a great deal on it if you send back your old tank. The new one gives another 6-8" of space for the driver seat to move back. Comes with new firewall panels that I prefer over the old ones. If you haven't already seen it, you can see it in my build thread pics.

[Rasmus]

http://i.imgur.com/VuHYEGG.jpg
Fabbed up a whole new accelerator mount. FFR's was junk anyway.

http://i.imgur.com/21eJDkp.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/JeP24Oo.jpg
Had to remove the bar that the original pedal box, accelerator pedal, and steering column mounted to. This allowed me to move the entire pedal box forward.

http://i.imgur.com/9S8Skgb.jpg
From the side.

http://i.imgur.com/iimklwT.jpg
New clutch pedal full-in position. Gonna be a chore to get a firewall in between those two.

http://i.imgur.com/luPN7qS.jpg
Pedals from the side.

[Rasmus]

http://i.imgur.com/3KDjicE.jpg
In total I moved the pedal box 3.625" forward. It makes a world of difference. Before, my hamstrings didn't even touch the seat pushing the clutch or accelerator full in. Now, I'm sitting comfy. Above is with both the clutch and accelerator fully depressed.

http://i.imgur.com/2gfRQqg.jpg
Full out. Clutch foot on dead pedal.

http://i.imgur.com/8NaJO0q.jpg
Showing off.

[Pearldrummer7]

Showing off.

Bro, do you even hell-toe?

Seriously though, the pedals looks great. Comfort is huge for me in cars. I really like what you did to support the accelerator pedal. A more secure pedal is something I'm looking to achieve; my whole assembly flexes a bit.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Great Job Ramus,
I wish I caught you before you got this deep.
My son is 6'3" 300. I'm 6'0" 280.
I was considering moving the pedals.
By eliminating the gas tank behind the driver and Customizing the kirkey seat we are good to go.
You can see in this picture how far back our seats are. They are18" wide kirkey intermediate road race seats. Bolted flat on the floor.
On my next car I will need more room for batteries, So I might follow you lead on the pedals.
Bob

45350

[Harley818]

Glad to see you back Rasmus. Your's was a thread i always looked forward to and you don't let us down. I like the pedal mod..... now I'll have to think about that one....I'm 5'11 and would like a couple more inches.
I also have the FFR tank and I have my seat right back to the rollbar at the angle I like to sit. Might take a look at moving them.....

[Rasmus]

Great Job Ramus,
By eliminating the gas tank behind the driver and Customizing the kirkey seat we are good to go.
You can see in this picture how far back our seats are.
I honestly thought and thought about this. But I just couldn't conceive of a way that I could have the seat angled like I wanted and move it back any further.

http://i.imgur.com/5zPmgZn.jpg
The rolled bead that runs down the middle of the head rest is literally touching the cross-brace on my R's main roll loop. I'll probably have to make a little notch in the seat so it doesn't compromise the brace. My seats are not mounted flat though. The bottoms sit at a 9.5° angle leaned back which is where I think you're getting all that space. I'd love to see more pictures of your tank and seat modifications. Got a link?


Your's was a thread i always looked forward to and you don't let us down.
Thanks Harley.

[Rasmus]

Bro, do you even hell-toe?

Track day, Bro! Hoooooosiers! (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kp1kuo6xkbE)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I honestly thought and thought about this. But I just couldn't conceive of a way that I could have the seat angled like I wanted and move it back any further.

The rolled bead that runs down the middle of the head rest is literally touching the cross-brace on my R's main roll loop. I'll probably have to make a little notch in the seat so it doesn't compromise the brace. My seats are not mounted flat though. The bottoms sit at a 9.5° angle leaned back which is where I think you're getting all that space. I'd love to see more pictures of your tank and seat modifications. Got a link?

Hi Rasmus,
Here is a post about my gas tank.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12534-MRG-MotorSports-818S-Build&p=166601&viewfull=1#post166601

My seat mod was a lot of trial and error, so I wasn't taking pictures.
Basically ended up adding 2 bends to the seat.

My seat # 47900 is 15 degree layback 18" wide.
45353

With it flat on the floor against a vertical wall, the bottom of the seat is about 7" from the wall.
At 12" (maybe a little higher) from the floor I cut "V" in each side of the seat. I bent the seat vertical from the 12" to 24" points. I welded the "V" shut.
At the 24" point the head rest was now leaning forward. I did a "Marquise" cut and bent the head rest back to vertical. The seat now sits about 4" from the wall at the bottom.
45356

Here is Michael and I (driving) with helmets on.
45354

This summer we mostly did test and tunes getting 40 to 60 runs between us at each event. We probably have 400 to 600 runs on the car in the past year.
Welcome back to the party.
Bob

45355

PS: that is Michael. Our car doesn't roll like this any more.

PS#2
I had to add this just for you.
Go Kart mode 45357

[Rasmus]

At 12" (maybe a little higher) from the floor I cut "V" in each side of the seat. I bent the seat vertical from the 12" to 24" points. I welded the "V" shut.
At the 24" point the head rest was now leaning forward. I did a "Marquise" cut and bent the head rest back to vertical. The seat now sits about 4" from the wall at the bottom.

That makes sense. I don't know who will have done more custom work to make a tall guy fit. You or me. Also, I'm running the same series 47 seat as you, just in 17 inch width.



Go Kart mode 45357
Nice.

[DMC7492]

O


Next block, I'm red lock-tite-ing the bearing backs to the case before final assembly.

Welcome back to the project I feel your pain some time during such projects when on the last step of machining a part and some thing goes wrong. There are a few choice words I use. When these come out its time to step back and usually slow down and accept the issue, and the re evaluate as you have.
About the comment on lock titing...
This material will certainly change your preferred oil clearances,but by how much?
And the loctite will now be an insulating material between the block and the bearing.
Is this procedure common on super high performance engines?

[Rasmus]

About the comment on lock titing...
This material will certainly change your preferred oil clearances,but by how much?
And the loctite will now be an insulating material between the block and the bearing.
Is this procedure common on super high performance engines?

Ooo. Excellent questions and good observations!

http://i.imgur.com/zv8iBH7.jpg
Regarding the clearances. Yes, I would have to assume that if I coated the entire back of all the bearings with loc-tite that the clearances would change. But my plan is to only dab a little bit. That is, less than a drop with a pin head into the stamped lettering on the backs of all the bearings. None of the lettering is near the thrust sections (mid "C"). They're all stamped near the part line on all ten bearing halves. The least critical sections for clearance. I have to assume that King Bearing did that on purpose. It's not that you can get sloppy with clearances there; it's just not seeing close to the kind of load that the middle of the bearing halves will see. So tolerances can be a little tighter there. I only plan on dabbing a little in the 3 or 4 letters nearest the part line. Just enough to keep the bearing from falling or moving on assembly. Not to prevent the bearing from spinning under catastrophic low oil failure.

Regarding loc-tite acting as an insulator. I don't know. I do know that a good amount of oil is always passing through that section. So I'd consider that entire area to be oil-cooled. Clearly the oil in that area will heat up, as it resists compression. The individual oil molecules aren't there for long and just drop into the main oil sump or get sprayed somewhere on the inside of the case or rods. Unless your asking if the heat from the block (cylinders) isn't being transferred to the bearings to be wicked away by the oil? Even then there's oil valleys just under the bearings, machined in the block, that transport oil from the internal oil passages to the bearing oil ports.

Common procedure on super high performance engines? No idea.

http://i.imgur.com/x1BSfRK.jpg?1
BONUS! Crushed bearing photo.

[Frank818]

Ewwww :(

[Tamra]

Glad to see our fellow long-rod destroked engine builder back at it!!! We missed you.

The loctite thing sounds scary. Perhaps ask a machine shop or Subaru engine specialist for assistance? I think our machine shop would have done the bearings for us for not that much more (and after doing them ourselves which took forever, we probably would have paid for the convenience). Fortunately we did not have the same problem - our lube seemed to hold on to them tight enough. I'll ask Andrew what we used since I can't remember.

[Rasmus]

Thanks Tamra. Feels really good to be back.

Customizing is the gift that just keeps on giving...

http://i.imgur.com/6zGVsw4.jpg
Move the pedal box forward 3.625" and the exiting line of side hydraulic port on the brake MC will rub the frame.

http://i.imgur.com/tpLxOnV.jpg
So grind out of bit of the frame and weld in a "C" so the brake lines won't rub or kink on the frame. Progress!

[matteo92065]

Good to see you back on the horse!
If you are going to make any of your own flairs, you might want to ditch the purple adapters. Just another thing to possibly leak. I always thought the noses on the purple adapters were made too long, and didn't let enough threads engage.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

good to see you back on the horse!
If you are going to make any of your own flairs, you might want to ditch the purple adapters. Just another thing to possibly leak. I always thought the noses on the purple adapters were made too long, and didn't let enough threads engage.

ditto

[Frank818]

I see you are customizing a bit like me! lolll The only difference is that your build will weigh half of mine. lolll

[Rasmus]

Not to worry Frank. We'll do a head to head RallyX in Quebec, in January, and we'll see which car's lighter. Do I have to stud the tires myself or can I just buy a set?

The pedal box customizing gift left me with a second issue of not being able to fit the clutch master cylinder's reservoir on.

http://i.imgur.com/NoXjJZH.jpg
So I spent several hours building this goofy bracket.

http://i.imgur.com/cPnx3ap.jpg
I really should just buy a mill and convert it CNC and learn to model parts.

http://i.imgur.com/VVS05VD.jpg
Reservoir out of the way of the frame. Cocked sideways just enough to make the Max & Min lines useless. Hopefully it holds fluid.

[Canadian818]

Glad to see you back at it Rasmus! I know all about the 6 month thing, happened twice now, but without the heartache, just busy working.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Rasmus,
Looks awesome.
At least you don't have the hack up the windshield surround to fill the brake master cylinder.
What is your plans for the clutch pedal to lower control arm bushing interference?

Check your rotation count on the pink fitting. As a rule of thump that I use for minimum revs: The engagement threads equal the diameter.
For instance: 1/2-13 bolt would be 1/2 times 13 = 6.5 revs.
1/4-20 bolt would be 1/4 times 20 = 5 revs.
M10 x 1.0 fitting would be 10 times 1 = 10 revs (you will not get 10) Maybe 7 or 8.
I was only getting about 3 revs on the pink adaptors.

I used these: http://store.fedhillusa.com/18nutpack.aspx

One more note. be careful when installing. I have cross threaded a few. Subaru manual says 10.8 ft-lbs.
Bob

[Rasmus]

Rasmus,
What is your plans for the clutch pedal to lower control arm bushing interference?

I think I covered that in this post (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12631-818Rasmus-E-Modified&p=211484&viewfull=1#post211484). If I didn't, I'm not understanding your question. This is as close as my clutch pedal gets to that bushing (http://i.imgur.com/iimklwT.jpg) fully depressed.

Is is your recommendation to ditch the vast majority of the FFR supplied brake and clutch lines and just go full metric?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I think I covered that in this post (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12631-818Rasmus-E-Modified&p=211484&viewfull=1#post211484). If I didn't, I'm not understanding your question. This is as close as my clutch pedal gets to that bushing (http://i.imgur.com/iimklwT.jpg) fully depressed.

Is is your recommendation to ditch the vast majority of the FFR supplied brake and clutch lines and just go full metric?

I thought the clutch pedal would hit much sooner. One of the reasons I didn't go your route.
Use the lines but ditch most of the fittings and all the adaptors.
The Proportional valve does use ffr fittings.
Bob

[Rasmus]

I thought the clutch pedal would hit much sooner.
It does. I altered mine. See the linked post.

[Frank818]

Your clutch master is from an NA?
I had the same issue. Ended up buying a used WRX one. Which is leaking badly. lolll

About rallyX, you can simply weld your studs on the rims directly, run no tire (will save weight!) and let's rally in the snow! :)

[longislandwrx]

Is is your recommendation to ditch the vast majority of the FFR supplied brake and clutch lines and just go full metric?

Ras, I used adapters on the masters and slave, the FFR hard lines, and imperial flexible brake lines. now I have extra adapters in case one fails and brake lines I can find in any autoparts store.

all metric would be nice too, shave a few grams not running the pink adapters.

[Scargo]

My build thread post (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12395-818R-quot-Glynman-Style-quot&p=194239&viewfull=1#post194239) #224 discusses my attempt to use all metric of the Subaru/Japanese style. All-metric also eliminates extra connections so you have almost half as many places for things to go wrong with the hydraulics. It means I have ditched almost all of the FFR lines. I consider this approach by FFR to be shortsighted. It's not a kit based on an American car...

[Rasmus]

This pedal box customization is taking a lot of time.

http://i.imgur.com/POv6NQw.jpg
So here's where I'm at as I break for lunch today. Half(ish) of the new front firewall is done. You're looking at three custom panels. I estimate it's gonna take seven total to remake the firewall. This has taken me many hours over several days to get to this point. It's just really slow going or I just work slow. I stopped working for a several days for a family function. But I'm back at it.

[Hindsight]

Looking good. What are you using to bend the aluminum? Bends look NICE. Way better than mine (on my oil cooler shroud).

[Tamra]

Sorry to join the conversation late here, but I see that you're moving the pedals forward to make more room for yourself. I saw that you opted to not switch the gas tank because it wouldn't give any leg room benefit due to the leanback angle of your seat. However, I would still switch the gas tank for reasons outside of leg room.

We have had a lot of issues with fuel starve due to lack of baffling, so we have to run the tank full. 15 gallons is huge and heavy, so switching to a fuel cell would save weight and get rid of the fuel starve issue. And on top of all of that, the tank is a pain to work with and tends to leak around the gaskets if you're not careful (we ended up siliconing everything and we are getting rid of the gas tank this winter, going to a fuel cell).

Anyway, hope this tip helps save you the frustration we have gone through.

Good work on the pedal box. I know it's slow and frustrating work, but you'll be happy in the long run for doing it.

[Rasmus]

We have had a lot of issues with fuel starve due to lack of baffling, so we have to run the tank full. 15 gallons is huge and heavy, so switching to a fuel cell would save weight and get rid of the fuel starve issue. And on top of all of that, the tank is a pain to work with and tends to leak around the gaskets if you're not careful (we ended up siliconing everything and we are getting rid of the gas tank this winter, going to a fuel cell).
Seems like another issue I'm going to need to address. I've got two ideas to still use the FFR supplied V1 fuel tank:
1. Cut open the top and weld in baffles with a series of trapdoors to channel the fuel to the pick up. or
2. Cut open the top and plumb in two of these:
http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/pics/MP_single_small.jpg http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/pics/MP_bottom_small.jpg
http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/pickups.html. One on the right side; one left. The Offroad 4x4 guys have been using them for years to prevent fuel starvation. Then filling the tank up with:

http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/pp144/rkblankenship/DSC04299.jpg
PVC Wiffle Softballs with the holes all-round to resist sloshing, or

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachments/miscellaneous/702405d1350524664-alltechs-4x4-fuel-cell-baffles-img_0148.jpg
PVC 3-4 inch pipe cut to short-ish links to resist sloshing.

[Rasmus]

Yesterday I finally finished

http://i.imgur.com/KLDViPX.jpg
all the panels for the new firewall. Making these actually took more time than moving the pedal box itself. What a task. Constant fitting and cutting. Stiff paper templates made and remade. Hours of work.

http://i.imgur.com/EPRNljR.jpg
Today I made and welded in a pedal stop for the accelerator. Didn't want it to snap off if I pressed on it too hard.

[Frank818]

I guess your FW panels take into account the pedal stop intrusion inside the front area? Wait, I don't picture that. Is your pedal actually going to be inside the front area when floored (which will be almost all the time loll)?

[Rasmus]

Looking good. What are you using to bend the aluminum? Bends look NICE. Way better than mine (on my oil cooler shroud).

Thanks for the compliment.

How to bend it like Rasmus:

http://i.imgur.com/uBTbsIO.jpg
Tools needed
1. Straight edge of a durable table. Mines a 3/16" thick steel top.
2. A straight bar to clamp down the work with. If you clamp right on the work you'll leave clamp marks.
3. Clamps
4. Body hammer. I like the convex faced square one. Round one leaves too many marks.
5. Hearing protection. I'm not joking. Doing it this way is loud and will damage your hearing.
6. The work. With a nice score line where you want your bend so it's easy to line up on the table.

http://i.imgur.com/svf9Ab2.jpg
Clamp the work down aligned on the table edge. About 10-20mm from the table edge. Too close and you just end up hitting the bar with the hammer. Clamp with enough pressure to prevent the work from walking on you while you hammer on it. Not so tight that your clamping bar makes gouges in the work. Now with your non-dominate hand put a little pressure on the work.

http://i.imgur.com/1l33IN5.jpg
Tap on the work near the table edge you're lined up on. Don't try to hit the edge of the table. Hit just shy of it. Try to tap the work flat with the face of the hammer or toward the top of the hammer face. Never near the bottom of the hammer face (leaves marks). You'll be making dozens and dozens of overlapping taps from one end of the work's bend to the other. All the while, maintaining steady, light, pressure with your off-hand. Pictured above is about 8 passes. The first 30 degrees of the bend is the slowest. One pass on the piece of work pictured took about 40 taps.

http://i.imgur.com/zgL81fD.jpg
Once you get to about 80 - 85 degrees you can take the clamping bar off and crisp up the edge by tapping on the side and top of the bend with table edge still under it. Hold the work steady with your off-hand. Tah-dah. Now contemplate making a bending brake.

[Hindsight]

Nice! I made a bending brake... pics on my build thread. It didn't do as good a job as your technique though. I made the brake before I had a welder though. I bet I could probably make a much better one now, but then you start to look at how much time you are spending making tools vs making your car.......

[svanlare]

Nice tip as always. Thinking I should get a big steel table to go with my BOD.

[D Clary]

I would not recommend filling the tank with stuff to prevent slosh. Unless it is packed very tightly it will pummel the fuel pump and wiring very quickly.

[C.Plavan]

From a $100 harbor freight sale since I didn't have a metal table. I threw casters on it to roll it around. If I had a metal table (or a better workbench) I would of done what you did. Looks great.
http://i.imgur.com/wIagJhPm.jpg

[Rasmus]

After moving the pedal box forward I got to thinking about the driver's seat. Originally I mounted it higher than I wanted so I could fit in the car a little better. But having moved the pedals...

http://i.imgur.com/ihkdm6L.jpg
I cut out my first set of custom sear rails and welded in lower ones. Plus I remounted the seat on it's legs (the L-brackets) 1/2" lower. So now I'll sit a total of 1.5 inches lower in the car. The lowest part of the seat bottom literally sits lower than the x-bars that make up the floor. Okay only about 1/16th" lower but still. Neiner. Considering that I weigh 220+ lbs (100 kg) that's moving a lot of mass down 1.5 inches, which will lower the C.G. a little. Bonus, the new seat rails weigh less than the old ones by 350 grams. Woot!

[Rasmus]

http://i.imgur.com/IsrasRp.jpg
Final installed the new front firewall.

http://i.imgur.com/CX5zwRE.jpg
This modification took way longer than I ever anticipated.


http://i.imgur.com/HXV7kQP.jpg
Of course something's not gonna work correctly when I finally get it on the road. But I guess we'll see what bends when we get to that, because everything looks good and clear now.

[Rasmus]

Also purchased a used set of empty engine case halves from a '06 STi. They're at the machine shop as I type.

[Canadian818]

Looks good Rasmus! I know all about those little mods that end up snowballing and taking forever. I went through that when I moved my seats closer together and modded my tank. I'm not sure if that was the best solution, yours looks simple enough, haha

[Hindsight]

Nice work! Looks tidy and functional.

[Scargo]

That's impressive looking. Soldier on! There's nothing the correct hammer won't fix.

[nkw8181]

Nice keep up the great work!

[Pearldrummer7]

Pedal modification looks sick. I love all the attention to detail work you do.

Here...

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5638/22358166048_a533149702.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/A4HrPw)

Is the spacer not long enough? It seems the bolt isn't tightened down either way. Why nylon spacers over aluminum? (I should guess that the answer is "weight savings"!)

[Rasmus]

Good eye there Frank.

In my hurry to want to take a picture I didn't bolt down the lower a arm. The nuts sit on a table when I took that photo.

That's not nylon, That's HDPE plastic. It's the same stuff many aftermarket strut spacers are made from (also most curb side trash bins, and milk jugs). Why that over aluminium? I didn't have aluminum bar stock on hand. :cool:

[F1Jim64]

Also purchased a used set of empty engine case halves from a '06 STi. They're at the machine shop as I type.

First - awesome build.

Second - keeping your sanity when you hit major roadblocks is the supreme test of your character. At least that's what I tell myself as I slowly put down the tool I've just used to break/bend/destroy some part I've been working on for the past 4 hours..

Third - I have absolutely no experience with Subie engine cases, but there's no way a talented guy with a good tig welder could repair those gouges - and then re-machine. Sounds academic now - and I'm sure you researched that option. Damn shame.

[longislandwrx]

bravo.

[David Hodgkins]

Unbelievable mods Rasmus! Very impressive. I'm really sorry about the block; boy does that suck. I've walked away from the build before too, but not due to anything super major like that. I pulled out the threads on my oil pickup once and learned about helicoils and I've broken taps in holes before (that was fun) but bravo to you on coming back to it. Great Job.

I have NO DOUBT I would fit very nicely in your car. I hope someday I can try it on!

:)

[longislandwrx]

Rasmus thanks for the power steering pump how to. knocked this out on Saturday, changed everything except the -17, didn't see it in the instructions until after the pump was remounted in the bracket, it was bone dry so I wasn't worried about it. thanks for saving me $600

1 hr to rebuild the pump, 2 hrs to clean up the leaky mess, 2 hours to figure out how the evap went back together lol

beers on me.

[Rasmus]

http://i.imgur.com/tMWQPmk.jpg
Started this again. Hopefully this one will get to the "shortblock" stage this time.

http://i.imgur.com/bCZDdsx.jpg
Main Bearing (King Racing PN MB5382XPG) clearances are running looser than on the other block. I didn't have Dale from Motion Machine line hone the main line this time, 'cause I didn't want him decking down the mating faces messing with timing. But looks like I'm paying for my own capriciousness.

Calc'd Clearances:
Main #1: 0.00155" <---tight relative
Main #2: 0.00170"
Main #3: 0.00220" <---loose relative
Main #4: 0.00190"
Main #5: 0.00200"
(Bore gauge's graduation: 0.00005)

#1 is tight relative to the others; #3 is loose, relatively. I already swapped #1 and #3 bearing with each other. Before the swap they were:
Main #1: 0.00090"
Main #3: 0.00240"

Subaru's FSM Main Bearing Crankshaft oil clearance: 0.0004-0.0012". FSM Limit is 0.0016".

I've got another ses of #1 and #3 King Racing MB5382XPG bearing halves; I'll pop those in and see what they do. I might be running down to the Subaru's parts department and getting some undersize ones.

[Hindsight]

Glad to see you back at it!

[Rasmus]

Me too, Hindsight, me too.

http://i.imgur.com/I83FgGN.jpg
Playing Mixxy/Matchy with the main bearing sets I have.

http://i.imgur.com/mboKVj7.jpg
It's not the bearings. It's the bore.

Main #1: 0.0013"
Main #2: 0.0024" <--- She'd be a gusher!!!
Main #3: 0.0021"
Main #4: 0.0021"
Main #5: 0.0022"

Looks like I'll need to order a set of ACL 5M8309H-.25 Bearings. They're supposed to be 0.001" oversize (less oil clearance) and play mixxy/matchy with them. I'm gonna email my machinist and ask him what to do.

Edit: Ended up ordering a set of King Engine MB5382XPG.026 Crankshaft Main Bearings instead. They're also supposed to be 0.001" oversize (less oil clearance). 0.026mm ~= 0.001"

[Frank818]

Rasmus is alive!!! :)

[Rasmus]

Rasmus is alive!!! :)
Rasmustein Monster! It's beard! Sweet Odin, the beard!

Mixxy/Matched the bearings again and got:

Main #1: 0.0011"
Main #2: 0.0023"
Main #3: 0.0023"
Main #4: 0.0022"
Main #5: 0.0023"

So other than #1 being way tighter than the rest I got it so nothing else is wider than Main #3. Main #3 feeds oil to both Rod 2 and 3. Main #1 feeds oil to Rod 1 and Main #5 feeds oil to Rod 4.

On a related note: I like to continually check to see if my bore gauge stays zeroed. I usually check to see if it's zero before I measure #1, #2, & #3. I then flip the block over and recheck zero and then gauge #4 and #5 from the back. Then, just to make sure I recheck for zero again before I put the bore gauge down. Twice now on that final check the gauge has read .0001" over zero. My guess would be that my hands heat up the tool causing it to move away from it's previous zero point. It's ~64 degrees in the garage today.

[svanlare]

welcome back!

[longislandwrx]

Off topic, Ras did you give this arm the chop? It looks like it once held a cable perhaps a relic of a cable clutch option?


52666

[Scargo]

Raz! Sweet Sassy Molassy! I have questions: Did you have crank checked for straightness? Is it a cross-drilled one? What clearances are you trying to achieve? I would think what you came up with last looks pretty good.
What oil pump are you using and have you done any work on it or did you add another shim?

[Rasmus]

Off topic, Ras did you give this arm the chop? It looks like it once held a cable perhaps a relic of a cable clutch option?
That's at the top of the clutch pedal arm correct? Ya I cut that off. In the 5 bone stock WRX's I've worked on nothing's ever been installed in that hole at the end of that tab. Not sure why it's there.

[Rasmus]

Raz! Sweet Sassy Molassy! I have questions: Did you have crank checked for straightness? Is it a cross-drilled one? What clearances are you trying to achieve? I would think what you came up with last looks pretty good.
What oil pump are you using and have you done any work on it or did you add another shim?

Straightness checked in this post (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12631-818Rasmus-E-Modified&p=170457&viewfull=1#post170457). So straight my dial gauge didn't move once zeroed. Crankshaft is, EJ205, 75mm stoke, P/N 12200AA240. Yep it's a de-stroker. The one that comes OE with the good crossdrilling for better oiling at high rpm.

Clearancewise on the Mains I just got an email back from Dale at Motion Machine this morning:

Hi Rasmus. Assuming your measurements are accurate, you need a set of .026mm under King mains. All bearing makers vary some in their actual versus stated wall thickness but in theory they would tighten up mains #2-#5. Anything under .0017" and over .001" would be good clearance on the mains. If you find that you have to mix a std shell and a .026 shell on the same main, install the .026 on the driver side on #2, and on the pass side on #4, these are the 2 saddles that will wear if the line bore is slightly big. Center main makes no difference. Dale
So looks like: .0010-.0017" is my target.

Oil pump. I don't know. Looking at the sweepers at my local track (https://www.google.com/maps/@36.1708526,-115.9092884,368m/data=!3m1!1e3) Turn one is a large radius 180 sweeper going right and turn two is a large radius 225 degree sweeper going left. I've pretty much resigned myself to a dry sump system.

[Scargo]

I understand wanting Dry sump... That's what I plan to do with my de-stroker, but with my STi track car (I'm finishing up building at the moment) I am running all KillerB stuff and a 12mm ported pump with the bypass blocked off and an external Peterson adjustable bypass valve(black with red caps). The -10 return hose is into the oil fill neck. 12mm because it's a loosely clearanced DAVCS motor with a lot of external oil stuff on it. I plan to turn 8K with it.
https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/12986965_1320729844610791_8538703798257689330_n.jp g?oh=55620e00fd3dafe49ce5c07856240131&oe=57BAC76F
https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/t31.0-8/12973362_1320724731277969_7145319753144922995_o.jp g

[Rasmus]

While waiting for my tighter main bearings to show up I decided to see how much my ARP head studs would pull the main bore when fully torqued down with heads and headgaskets.

http://i.imgur.com/gaxoEfA.jpg
Was getting everything ready and noticed that

http://i.imgur.com/DmUeMl1.jpg?1
the studs seemed to stick out a little far. So much so they might interfer with the camshafts So I went inside to check the ARP website and see if that was intended and then I noticed

http://i.imgur.com/L6oMLLs.jpg?1
I have the wrong set for my application. I have ARP 260-4702 for SOHC EJ motors not 260-4701 for DOHC EJ motors. The 260-4702 are about 9.5 inches long and the 260-4701 are supposed to be around 8.7 inches.

Damn it.

[Scargo]

Don't get agitated. That's the only piece of advice I can give you. This **** happens. Happens to me on a regular basis. Fortunately we catch most of it. Persevere. Baby steps.
I have learned so much over the past year+. Progress has been slow (just trying to get the STi done and out of the way). OTOH, I have gained confidence and am going where no man has gone before (that's how it feels).
You mentioned welding. I do not have a oxy-acetylene torch so some heating is difficult. I was welding away on my up-pipe only to find that it had warped quite a bit.
Then I started work on the down-pipe and the Borg Warner turbo's V-band flange is unique. Emails and phone-calls later I find that there were manufacturing changes and irregularities and that I could make my own V-band ring or go with the flow... Nothing easy or straightforward. More to buy that is not normal or mainstream. Why, I ask? To make us crazy!

[Hindsight]

Don't get me started on welding v-band rings to stainless steel! Never again.


That engine build is looking great Rasmus. Can't wait to see it all put together. Enjoy the journey.

[305mouse]

At least you caught it now

[Frank818]

That sucks! I've noticed a few things like that me too on my build, wrong parts. The important thing is to notice it before it runs! Which you did.

[Rasmus]

http://i.imgur.com/SXrzmXd.jpg
The new set of King Engine MB5382XPG.026 Crankshaft Main Bearings arrived. Popped them into 2, 3, 4, and 5 and left the normal size in 1:

Main #1: 0.0011"
Main #2: 0.0012"
Main #3: 0.0011"
Main #4: 0.0013"
Main #5: 0.0009"

As far as the F.S.M. I'm kissing the upper limit of the "go/no-go" range Subaru uses when they assemble these. I think I'm going to switch the bearing sets between 2 and 4, and also swap the two halves on 5 from right to left. The bearing I installed on the left side of 5 went in in tighter than any other bearing I've done. I'll see what comes of that. The proper length head bolts should be coming in soon so we'll get to see how much they pull (or push) on the bearing clearance.

Also...
http://i.imgur.com/fD3vf7C.jpg
Picked up one of those JDM twin scroll headers. This one was sold as coming from a "2006 Legacy GT". Don't think I'll use the up-pipe cause I still want to go with the Borg-Warner.

http://i.imgur.com/8ljsIKF.jpg
But I did get this with the sale of the header and uppipe.

http://i.imgur.com/BLTa095.jpg
IHI VF44. Knowing that doesn't get you much. There are no compressor maps for IHI turbos so I've no idea what this thing can do.

A 2006 Subaru Legacy B4 2.0GT spec.B Power is supplied by a double overhead camshaft, 2 litre turbocharged 4 cylinder motor, with 4 valves per cylinder that develops power and torque figures of 276 bhp (280 PS/206 kW) at 6400 rpm and 343 N·m (253 lb·ft/35 kgm) at 2400 rpm respectively

[Hindsight]

That's a nice looking factory manifold. Should pair nicely with a Borg Warner turbo and custom up-pipe!

[longislandwrx]

So the VF44 uses the RHF5H wheel ... here's something you may or may not have seen before (no efficiency though)

53293

that turbo tops out at about 320whp iirc.

[Mitch Wright]

I have the same JDM Header using a VF37 turbo, I can tell you the car sounds great. I have left all the heat shields on and with Cusco motor mounts it sits about 1/4" -3/8' below the frame rail that runs across the chassis in front of the engine. I also had to clearance the chassis motor mounts the header just rested on the corners, I trimmed a 1/2" off the point on each side and now have a finger width if clearance on both sides.

[Scargo]

Found the numbers from the shop that measured/set-up my new engine prior to my assembly. Most crank bearings are .0025" to .003"! Guess that's why I have the 12mm pump in my motor. Fast and loose! Rods are .0014" to .0016".
Funny how, when I Plastigauged it, I got under .002".

[Rasmus]

So the VF44 uses the RHF5H wheel
Where did you get that graph and information?!


I have the same JDM Header using a VF37 turbo, I can tell you the car sounds great. I have left all the heat shields on...
I'd love to keep as much of the OEM heat shields as possible. Acutally I'd love to repack the shields with Ceramic Insulation Blankets (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NDKU14Y/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3P341MSQ7K1Z7&coliid=IRKQTWOJ2WDEF) that people use on kilns, forges, and furnaces. Good up to 2400 Degrees F. Stainless Steel melts around 2550. Mitch do you know if the header pipes are Stainless Steel on this thing?


Found the numbers from the shop that measured/set-up my new engine prior to my assembly. Most crank bearings are .0025" to .003"! Guess that's why I have the 12mm pump in my motor. Fast and loose! Rods are .0014" to .0016".
Funny how, when I Plastigauged it, I got under .002". Did your rods or mains plastigauge to under .002"?

[longislandwrx]

Where did you get that graph and information?!

http://www.ihi-turbo.com/turbo_RHE-RHF.htm

mad knowledge yo.

[Scargo]

Did your rods or mains plastigauge to under .002"? My mains measured .0012", .0017", .0017", .0017", .0015" when I did it with Plastigauge. Shop came up with much bigger numbers, though I believe I verbally said I wanted as much as .002". I know he was used to BMW race motor clearances.

[Rasmus]

http://i.imgur.com/ve44raI.jpg
Realized that when I gapped my rings the first time, I didn't use my torque plate. So I went and found it and torqued it on with the correct ARP head bolts, which arrived. They're 8.75" long by the way. The SOHC ones were 9.5".

And did the gaps change? Yes.

Position - gap w/o head studs torqued ---> Gap with head studs torqued
#1 Top Ring - .020" ---> .022"
#1 2nd Ring - .022" ---> .024"

#2 Top Ring - .020" ---> .022"
#2 2nd Ring - .022" ---> .024"

#3 Top Ring - .020" ---> .021"
#3 2nd Ring - .022" ---> .022"

#4 Top Ring - .020" ---> .022"
#4 2nd Ring - .022" ---> .024"

Every bore's rings got wider by .002". Except bore 3. 3's only got wider by .001"

Ordered a new set of rings from JE so I can do this again!

[Frank818]

Damn, Raz, you too are getting those back lucks, you and I are facing the same kinds of ordeals. loll But we'll get through it!

[Rasmus]

While waiting for new piston rings to arrive from JE...

http://i.imgur.com/EDjZ5Po.jpg
I decided to go with a 10mm OEM oil pump. A dry sump is nice but expensive. Crazy expensive. Added three shims to the pressure relief spring.

http://i.imgur.com/YBrlFii.jpg?2
Broke some of the hard edges on the oil pump so the oil would flow easier. I'm no mechanical engineer but I know that fluid doesn't like to turn sharp corners without a bunch of turbulence.

http://i.imgur.com/yYtnDNf.jpg?2
It's not like I hogged the thing out. Just a gentle softening of the edges where the oil flows.

http://i.imgur.com/5Qwx1n5.jpg?1
Spent maybe 20 minutes with a double cut, carbide, burr and a small, fine, file porting the pump. Spent another 75 minutes cleaning out the metal chips and bits.

http://i.imgur.com/axIYtyz.jpg?2
And per Glyn's recommendation I picked up the "good" water pump. The one with the cast impeller instead of the more common stamped one. PN 21111AA026.

[Pearldrummer7]

Cutting those edges down is a really cool idea. As an electrical guy, I never would've thought to do that. Awesome work, as usual Rasmus!

[Hindsight]

that motor is going to be a work of art. You seem very zen about taking your time and focusing on the build instead of the end of the journey!

[Rasmus]

Thanks for the compliments fellas. I've never mentioned it, but one of the my mantras for this build is to do the stuff that would be hard if the car was all together. For example, if the car was running and I thought, "you know I might want to port that oil pump", that's hard to do with the motor in, and the timing belt adjusted.

Now that I'm off the "Need a Dry-Sump" thoughts i'm back to one of our old conversations (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?9199-WTF-1-5-g-cornering-!!!).

1. Good oil pick up.
2. Accusump
3. Oil cooler with mechanical thermostat
4. Monitor Oil pressures so I get about 10 psi per 1000 RPM. So at 8000RPM I'd want 80psi of oil. I won't be running loose bearings (.0020"+). Just the upper limits of the FSM range (.0012"). So we'll have to see if the motor want's 30, 40, or 50 wt oil.

[longislandwrx]

I'm hoping to avoid the dry sump, I think my recipe is going to be very similar
1 Cosworth or similar DIY oil pan for extra capacity/ground clearance w/ pickup $200-600

maybe add their amazing baffle. so hot right now. but $350? still cheaper than a dry sump.

2 killer b oil control valve ~350
3 ???????
4 Oil cooler with mechanical thermostat ~300