FFRSpec72 818R Build Seattle WA

[FFRSpec72]

Getting prepared for my 818R build (at the start of the new year) and I have a couple of questions:

1. Anyone have a packing list that comes with the 818R so I can understand what I'm actually getting?
2. Anyone have a definitive list of parts that I will need, as my storage space is tight so I can't store a donor, I will have to contract with a local yard for an incoming WRX (in the NW these are common cars)?
3. Anyone have a list of parts that are better bought new then from a donor, such as radiator, lower control arms, etc?

[C.Plavan]

With an 818R- you really don't need a donor. I didn't buy one, and I'm doing great. Added bonus is no labor/time to remove parts, no storage of donor. Just buy parts you need off Ebay or internet (Steering rack, knuckle steering column, front and rear knuckles, new wildwood brakes, a rebuilt race motor or an STI JDM motor, Legacy GT 5 speed trans (I have one I may part with), new aluminum LCA's, Adjustable rear lateral links (you only need 2 adjustable really), new radiator/fan kit. and a bunch of metric hardware (a lot fine thread). You will be golden.

[longislandwrx]

PM me your email address, I'll scan the packing list.

[FFRSpec72]

With an 818R- you really don't need a donor.

I was hoping that was the case, and thus my questions as I need some definitive list of parts that I need to acquire, you have given me a start with the parts you listed here. I think one of the main issues will be the wire harness and management systems, I know there are a few companies that make these but not sure how suited these are to the 818R build, as I need sensors/gauge, lights and engine management

longislandwrx, I sent you a PM with my email address, thanks much !

[tmac_mtm]

For the wiring harness, talk to Wayne Presley at VCP. He's marketing a harness paired with an Electromotive ECU that should be just what you're looking for. Links up to an AIM or other racing data acquisition system.

[Sgt.Gator]

Subscribed! And there's a PM for you...

[FFRSpec72]

Just started collecting parts, found a 2002 WRX, so have most of the parts except the LCA (going with STI), wire harness (not sure what I'm going to do there yet).

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[Kurk818]

Looking great. Im in the Puyallup area and will be building an 818S. Delivery scheduled for Thursday/Friday this week. Woot woot!

Will definitely have to keep in touch on the builds.

[FFRSpec72]

I was just in Puyallup picking up the parts this morning.

[FFRSpec72]

Will put in new wheel bearings/seals for front and rear spindles/CV, new tie rod ends, will also order new STI aluminum LCA. Will also have new bushings pressed into the rear assembly. I'm close to ordering engine and transmission. Will most likely go with a JDM EJ207 v7 engine and 5sp transmission that have 40K on them. I have still not figured out the wiring harness yet and what I need to do there.

[FFRSpec72]

After some research and other Subaru Racers I will be going with the Godspeed AK-010 Adjustable lateral Links and the Godspeed AK-033 Trailing Arms

[metalmaker12]

With that engine a 2002 Usdm wrx harness can be used.i

[Gale K]

Alright Tony!!! :)

[FFRSpec72]

With that engine a 2002 Usdm wrx harness can be used.i

Yea, I think that that is the conclusion that I came to as I think I will need the following:

USDM WRX Front wiring harness
JDM Engine wiring harness
USDM WRX Bulkhead wiring harness
USDM WRX Instrument panel wiring harness
USDM WRX Rear wiring harness
USDM WRX Fuel tank cord

[FFRSpec72]

I just ordered the SPT Aluminum LCA, new spindle seals, bearing, clips, etc. for front and rear, new tie ends (inner/outer) and new boots all around. I thought that Ford parts for my Spec Racer were expensive but these seem to be higher! I looked around and went with Somerset Subaru as their price was better than most. Thanks to Adam (Somerset Subaru) for working with me to get all the right parts.

INNER TIE ROD - (34160FE010),
OUTER TIE ROD - (34161SA001),
BEARING FRONT - (28316FE000),
BEARING SEAL FRONT OUTER - (28035TA040),
BEARING SEAL FRONT INNER- (28015AA080),
REAR WHEEL BEARING - (28016AA030),
HUB SEAL REAR OUTER - (28015AA090),
HUB SEAL REAR 1 - (28015AA100),
HUB SEAL REAR 2 - (28015AA110),
FRONT OUTER CV BOOT - (28323FE001),
REAR INNER CV BOOT - (28423FE000)

[FFRSpec72]

Just ordered the ARP 100-7716 Extended wheel studs, so I can complete all the spindle/knuckle work

[Santiago]

After some research and other Subaru Racers I will be going with the Godspeed AK-010 Adjustable lateral Links and the Godspeed AK-033 Trailing Arms

Tony, have you been able to find out what spherical joints they're running on these? I couldn't find much beyond "yeah, local autocross guys run them" or "I would never run them" on various forums (didn't really look long though). I run sphericals all over my Mustang, but they're all Teflon-lined spherical rod ends from very high quality manufacturers (F.K. Bearings, Aurora, etc.).

The only detail pics I saw of the Godspeed ones had no manufacturer stamps on them (and apparently they're cast), which is why I ask. Here's a shot:

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Let me know what you found/find out.

Best,
-j

[Kurk818]

Did you happen to get in contact with Pacific Import Auto recently inquiring about your 818 project? Mike from PIA mentioned someone from Kirkland called him about an 818 build.

[FFRSpec72]

Did you happen to get in contact with Pacific Import Auto recently inquiring about your 818 project? Mike from PIA mentioned someone from Kirkland called him about an 818 build.

Nope, just been talking to the Subaru guys I race with about the parts that they use. Bearings seem to be the major breakage point. I have been talking to Pat's Auto Sport in Auburn about pressing in my bearings.

[Brando]

Do you think that will still be the case given the 818 weight is nearly cut in half from its donor counterpart? I didn't press in new bearings but am reconsidering

[FFRSpec72]

Do you think that will still be the case given the 818 weight is nearly cut in half from its donor counterpart? I didn't press in new bearings but am reconsidering

I hope not but the Subaru guys were going through front bearings about every 3rd race weekend, one had a serious crash into wall due to a bearing failure, but being half the weight I don't think there will be a problem, but I'm going with new bearings and seals

[FFRSpec72]

Tony, have you been able to find out what spherical joints they're running on these?

All I can fins out is they are not the best made and made overseas, I would not use GodSpeed for any front suspension parts, but the rear lateral links and trailing arms are not wear points. I looked at the Whiteline but while they are quality not sure I can justify.

[FFRSpec72]

So was about to purchase the GodSpeed lateral rear links and then a deal on the Whiteline Lateral rear Links came up making the Whiteline just a $100 more so I went with the Whiteline Lateral rear links, I will keep the stock trailing arms and put in new Whiteline bushings front and rear. So hopefully I'm all set on suspension parts for now and I can get to rebuilding the spindles and replace all the bushings and tie rod ends.

W61383 - Whiteline Rear Trailing Arm Bushings - Rear Position
W61381A - Whiteline Front Lower Trailing Arm Bushings
KTA109 - Whiteline Control Arms Rear Control Arms 4-Piece Kit

[Kurk818]

Nope, just been talking to the Subaru guys I race with about the parts that they use. Bearings seem to be the major breakage point. I have been talking to Pat's Auto Sport in Auburn about pressing in my bearings.

Im using a 2006 STI as a donor. Ive checked the bearings and seals and all of them check out in great shape. With the STI bearings being larger than the WRX im not concerned about changing them out now.

btw... mine is being delivered by Stewert next week on Wednesday the 29th! :cool:

[metalmaker12]

The 2005 up rear Sti hubs are slightly different and you will have to modifiy the FFR supplied brackets. Also I am pretty sure the spline is different (larger) and the FFR supplied axles prob won't work. But all of this can be worked out and the Sti stuff is much stronger so go with it.

[FFRSpec72]

The rear Sti hubs are slightly different and you will have to modifiy the FFR supplied brackets. Also I am pretty sure the spline is different (larger) and the FFR supplied axles prob won't work. But all of this can be worked out and the Sti stuff is much stronger so go with it.

Agree, all the 04 Sti on the track up here have swapped over to the later STi spindles, and last season did not have any issues. I don't expect any issues with the WRX spindles on the 818 since the weight is not that much, I will have to see how the cross weights play out when I'm done.

[FFRSpec72]

Got my "fasteners" so I should be all set for any bolts or nuts I need

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Also have a wire harness mess

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Cleaning up parts today, I should have all my donor parts minus engine/trans, cost was $600

[Kurk818]

The rear Sti hubs are slightly different and you will have to modifiy the FFR supplied brackets. Also I am pretty sure the spline is different (larger) and the FFR supplied axles prob won't work. But all of this can be worked out and the Sti stuff is much stronger so go with it.

Im aware of theses issues but i think its worth the effort. Im using the 6 speed as well. Thats a challenge im going to let FRR sort out.

[Kurk818]

Where did you score a bin of bolts like that?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Im aware of theses issues but i think its worth the effort. Im using the 6 speed as well. Thats a challenge im going to let FRR sort out.
Here is a picture of a center Diff Lock kit for a 6mt transmission.
Bob
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[FFRSpec72]

Where did you score a bin of bolts like that?

The guy I bought the donor parts from has striped 3 WRX in the past week so I asked him to save me all the nuts/bolts/fasteners from one strip. He then cuts the frame up with a saw into about 8 pieces an then loads them into his truck and sells for scrap and sells the good parts.

[Kurk818]

The guy I bought the donor parts from has striped 3 WRX in the past week so I asked him to save me all the nuts/bolts/fasteners from one strip. He then cuts the frame up with a saw into about 8 pieces an then loads them into his truck and sells for scrap and sells the good parts.

You can never have too many random bolts/nuts/clips!

[Sgt.Gator]

I wish every nut and bolt was metric. It seems crazy that the kit parts are SAE and the donor parts are Metric. That will drive me insane trying to make repairs at a race track.

[FFRSpec72]

I wish every nut and bolt was metric. It seems crazy that the kit parts are SAE and the donor parts are Metric. That will drive me insane trying to make repairs at a race track.

That's why I have a big metric bolt bin, as where I can I will go metric :-)

[FFRSpec72]

Suspension parts arrived yesterday (Somerset Subaru was great to deal with on the OEM and SPT parts)

New spindle bearings (front and rear), seals, clips, steering rack tie rod ends (inner/outer) and rack boots

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New CV joint boots

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New SPT LCAs

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New Whiteline rear lateral links and Wihiteline rear trailing arm bushings

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[Mechie3]

I wish every nut and bolt was metric. It seems crazy that the kit parts are SAE and the donor parts are Metric. That will drive me insane trying to make repairs at a race track.

My fmod is that way. Motor is metric, most other things are english, most of my tools are metric. Usually takes 2 trips to the toolbox to find something that works.

[FFRSpec72]

Spindles are off to the race shop to get new bearing, seals and clips, along with the rear trailing arms for bushings and the steering rack for new tie rods and boots.

[FFRSpec72]

Kit ready date is on time for 2/22 and pickup is set for 2/24 so should be here 3/10 if all goes OK and the weather is not a factor.

Order options:

Basic 818 R
Powder coated frame
Carbon front spoiler
Carbon rear diffuser
Willwood 12" 4 piston calipers/rotors, in black (too cheap for red as they will turn anyway)

JDM EJ207v7 Engine
JDM 5sp transmission

Donor-less build, so this will be a Craigslist Build

105lb race driver (my daughter)

[David Hodgkins]

Tony, it's good to hear about your experience with Somerset. The next month will be a long one I'm sure!

:)

[FFRSpec72]

Done with the rebuild of spindles (bearings, seals and 3" studs, rear spindles got new Whiteline trailing arm bushings), trailing arms (Whiteline bushings) and steering rack (inner/outer tie rods, new boots)


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[metalmaker12]

Nice engine!!!!!

[Scargo]

I wish every nut and bolt was metric. It seems crazy that the kit parts are SAE and the donor parts are Metric. That will drive me insane trying to make repairs at a race track.
I think this is a huge mistake on FFR's part. Is it because the SAE parts are cheaper and more plentiful?

[Rasmus]

I think the rack and spindles will be the first things tackled on my R. Nice work there. What finish is on the spindles?

[FFRSpec72]

I think the rack and spindles will be the first things tackled on my R. Nice work there. What finish is on the spindles?

I used POR 15 http://www.por15.com/BLACKCOTE_p_36.html as I use it on my challenge car and holds up very well

[wleehendrick]

I think this is a huge mistake on FFR's part. Is it because the SAE parts are cheaper and more plentiful?

Probably because their supply chain is all built around SAE parts given their previous kits.

[Xusia]

When I went to source some bolts separately, I found that the metric ones were significantly harder to come by in the higher grades than SAE. Still, it would be a nice upgrade option...

[metalmaker12]

I use Poe 15 or chassis saver brand, pretty much the same stuff

[FFRSpec72]

I ordered my Wilwood Brake Kits, I only have $2000 to spend so was going to order the black 12" front/rear kit from FFR but found the red 12" from Autoplicity for cheaper than what FFR wanted for the black. So the I went for the Wilwood 140-9193-DR and the 140-7006-DR where just a tad over $1800 shipped.

I also ordered my Mishimoto Aluminum Performance Radiator MMRAD-WRX-01 from AutoAnything for just under $250 shipped, so the savings on the brakes pretty much paid for the new radiator.

I'm going with the StopTech brake line kit (front and rear) for just under $100 shipped form AutoAnything.

[Rasmus]

Autoplicity prices are hard to beat.

[FFRSpec72]

I just boxed up all my wire harness (big box 18x18x20) and sent all 49lbs of it off to a service to get it dieted into something I can use, this should be an experience

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[FFRSpec72]

One step closer

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[EODTech87]

Your bare frame looks so clean it almost looks powdercoated. :D

[STiPWRD]

Congrats on the new kit!

One comment about the Whiteline KTA109 rear trailing arms. I ran these for about 6 years on my daily driver wrx and they worked great but did end up rusting and seizing up eventually. So don't be afraid to coat them with WD40 or some sort of other rust inhibitor from time to time. Granted, your R probably won't see as much rain or snow as my daily driver did.

[Sgt.Gator]

I think this is a huge mistake on FFR's part. Is it because the SAE parts are cheaper and more plentiful?

I don't know the reason, my guess is institutional momentum. SAE parts are not going to do well for the "World Car" concept. I doubt SAE bolts/nuts are plentiful or cheap in most other countries.

[Xusia]

Good point.

[Scargo]

Excellent point. FFR, are you listening? I think being a "World Class", "World Car" kit car maker would be of interest.

[Sgt.Gator]

Excellent point. FFR, are you listening? I think being a "World Class", "World Car" kit car maker would be of interest.

I sure hope so. Right on the first page of the 818 page:

"New Markets: It’s a global marketplace and the 818 is destined to bring the Factory Five experience to a whole new group of people, not just in the U.S., but all over the world. Designed to be affordable to build, right or left-hand drive capable, and with components that are readily available in other countries, the 818 is Factory Five’s first “World Car”. But it’s not just exporting the FFR experience to other countries… at the same time we are also inviting an entire new generation of Subaru-knowledgeable car-builders to the Factory Five community."
https://www.factoryfive.com/kits/project-818/

How's SAE going to work in that program?

Sorry for the thread hijack.....back to the real subject of the build now.

[Xusia]

While I think metric hardware would be a very nice thing to do, they do SHIP the SAE hardware with the kit, so it's not like those in foreign countries would need to go hunting for them...

[DruOdil]

So then you would just need to buy a new set of tools.

[Canadian818]

While I think metric hardware would be a very nice thing to do, they do SHIP the SAE hardware with the kit, so it's not like those in foreign countries would need to go hunting for them...

They don't send the sockets and wrenches, :/

[FFRSpec72]

The Wilwood brake kits (front and rear) came from Autoplicity today, all intact and great price, saved like $500 over FFR price.


Engine/transmission on the way, JDM EJ207v7 and JDM 5sp (TY754VBBAA) with 4.444 final drive.

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So still have to get new clutch/pressure plate and flywheel and timing belt kit w/water pump, looking at GATES Part # TCKWP328A {#WPK43513} 7 Components (1 Belt, 1 Hydraulic Tensioner, 4 Idlers, 1 Water Pump) PowerGrip Premium OE Timing Belt Component Kit W/Water Pump

[Scargo]

It probably won't make any difference to how your stock engine cools, but the Subaru water pump PN 21111AA026 performs better than the Gates pump or others with the "open paddle wheel" design as is the pump on the right in the picture.
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[FFRSpec72]

It probably won't make any difference to how your stock engine cools, but the Subaru water pump PN 21111AA026 performs better than the Gates pump or others with the "open paddle wheel" design as is the pump on the right in the picture.


Thanks, I will look into this as I believe in the most cooling potential I can get for the track. I assume it fits a JDM 207 engine?

[Scargo]

... I believe in the most cooling potential I can get for the track. I assume it fits a JDM 207 engine?
Yes. This may be very helpful to you, as an EJ207 engine owner. Ankur's Garage Part number Compendium. (http://bugsti.wordpress.com/part-number-compendium/)
I thought I knew a lot about engines till I had an ah-ha moment about the oil. Please excuse me if I am saying something amateurish.
Oil circulating is like our blood circulating. Blood movement cools our body, more-so than sweat. Oil cooling is just as important as water to me as a racer. It's amazing the temperature correlation between the two that I'm seeing. One helps the other.

[metalmaker12]

Thanks, I will look into this as I believe in the most cooling potential I can get for the track. I assume it fits a JDM 207 engine?

Back some months ago or more we covered this somewhere on here lol, try to find it. Most JDM Engines and early Wrx usdms have the closed style pump which far better than the open fan style. My Version 8 ej207 has the closed style, I am 90 percent sure yours came with it, but obviously double check. If it got changed or you want a new one just get the old style with the part number provided. Also get the subie water pump gasket, the gates is paper crap.

[FFRSpec72]

Yes. This may be very helpful to you, as an EJ207 engine owner. Ankur's Garage Part number Compendium. (http://bugsti.wordpress.com/part-number-compendium/)

great link, many thanks

[FFRSpec72]

Engine and transmission have been shipped

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[FFRSpec72]

My 2000lb per rack (8000lb total), Gladiator shelf came in today, so all set to accept the boxes when they deliver the 818

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[Santiago]

The JDM ej207...ahhh, how sweet is that thing! Seems that only a handful of us are going with it, and that seems insane to me. This is the engine for an R-car. Nice pick Tony! But of course I'm biased as this is the engine I'm going with as well. ST2 power levels in stock trim...add e85, crank up the boost (swap injectors), and you've got ST1 levels. Man I love that engine!

Best,
-j

[metalmaker12]

Ditto!! On board and I am the first to put it in an 818

[Rasmus]

Nice rack. You're gonna fill it up so fast.

[FFRSpec72]

Engine and transmission arrived today w/o damage, delivered into my garage

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[metalmaker12]

Nice, looks familiar

[FFRSpec72]

OK, after seeing a co-workers oil pickup in his 07 Sti break, I have decided to go with an STi oil pan, Killer B pickup and baffle, I was on the fence about this but the damage caused was something I don't want to see and since this is a race car it will even go through worse conditions. So all that is now ordered.

[Scargo]

I hope all racers think an oil cooler is a necessity. I have one, a thermostatic valve, Accusump and a remote filter block on my STi. Nine quart total capacity.
Recently I removed the oil heater where I had perched my Canton oil filter bypass block (http://www.jegs.com/i/Canton+Racing+Products/074/22-597/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710931151&catargetid=1784164562&cadevice=c&&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CM6Hyduzi70CFStk7AodAkUAHA).
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I removed this:https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSsjY1fY0CpQkPMuczTKCaAfyJxA1BXx DLeLWDRWXgyVeAY25Vm4g
Now, my oil lines have a straight shot towards the front and clear the header pipes a lot better. To do this you must block off the water lines or put a jumper hose between the nippled block plug and the water pump. You can also buy the plain Subaru block plug # 11021AA121. I chose to put a pipe plug where the nipple was and block off a very short length of the water pump return hose because I didn't want to pull the water pump off to drill and tap it. See last photo.
You will also need a short shaft, Subaru part #15018AA050, to replace the long one shown above.

Another option is to just use the outlet of the adapter block and return the oil to the top (by the dipstick) on a Moroso pan, or to the bottom, next to the drain hole, on a KillerB pan.
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Recently I bought this cap, or block-off plate, to take oil out of the oil filter area or just close it off. Moroso adapter 23815 - Moroso Oil Filter Block Off Plate. (http://www.amazon.com/Moroso-23815-Filter-Block-Off-Plate/dp/B001EMVJU8)
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This lets you get the outlet line far away from the exhaust by going down first. The area is cleaner still. The outlet hose can drop straight down and away, clearing the headers by 2-1/2 inches. I'd probably still sleeve the oil line again. The return line can angle in from above and enter with a 45° or 90° and be well away from the headers. Where does the oil come out if you block it off? Good question. I think just below the oil pressure sensor on the main galley, but I haven't confirmed this yet.

This is similar, but they've left the filter in the stock location and used a piece of scrap metal tubing from cooling plumbing on top to create the bypass. Not that clean and the headers go right by there. That's also why I like to get the filter out of there; it's surrounded by red-hot pipes. One friend has already had an oil fire in this area while on the track.
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[FFRSpec72]

I hope all racers think an oil cooler is a necessity.

Thanks for the write up, I use one on my Challenge car (I use the top Canton remote filter), mainly due to the fact that I originally had cooling problems and installed the oil cooler to help. I still have it but no longer have a cooling problem. I was going to look into the options for the Subaru (you now saved me some searching). I may or may not install something before I race, as I want to see what the temps are and then decide. Once again thanks!

[FFRSpec72]

Engine on stand now

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Removed the AC and PS

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Transmission on shelf

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[FFRSpec72]

Car will be delivered tomorrow, would have been today but driver had reached his drive limits so will stay in Portland for the night.

[FFRSpec72]

Car was delivered, took 2 hours to get it off the truck, what a disaster.


Trying to get the hoist to work

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In my garage next to the challenge car

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[Rasmus]

That must have been a nightmare.

[Scargo]

Is that the CF splitter laying on the front? Best of luck with it.

[FFRSpec72]

Is that the CF splitter laying on the front? Best of luck with it.

Nope just the dash, the CF splitter is in a box.

[FFRSpec72]

So I can't believe how many initial parts are on back order, hopefully I will not be needing any of the fuel parts.

1. Koni Shocks (all 4)
2. Rivnuts
3. Turn Signal connector
4. Hot Rod Fuel Tank
5. Fuel Level Sender Connector
6. Fuel Pump Connector
7. Fuel Filler Neck
8. Ground Strap

[FFRSpec72]

Finished dolly and put the car on the dolly, nice to be able to move it around with the slightest of effort. While the fiberglass work has gotten better in 10 years it is not all that better, disappointed in the quality of the 818 body parts, love the idea that there are no seams and the panels are manageable, but the quality need to come up a notch

[FFRSpec72]

I had to finish up my Challenge car and break in the engine, and managed to get about 30 miles on the engine w/o any issues, no leaks, oil pressure was good, water temp was also good.

My daughter was home from college for the weekend before she heads to Hawaii for spring break. So she was able to help me for a few hours.

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Some of the front suspension is on, I'm missing shocks as they are backorder, the ride height for the R is somewhat hard to follow in the manual, I think I have it right even though FFR sells you an R it does not give you all the parts to make the R ride height line washers and longer UCA bolts. I used the inner most holes for the rear of the LCA mount and I used the upper hole for the front LCA.

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My 3 favorite tools for the day, the bolt gauge and the micrometer as most of the labels came off the bags of bolts and had to also measure spacers. The last is the ball joint wrench, as FFR has gotten better with the UCA and how the ball joints fit and man were they tight.

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The last is somehow the R from Subaru made it into my pats bin so I think it will make it on the car someplace now.

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[Santiago]

Sounds like a happy day all-told!

The way you mounted the front LCA bushing is correct for standard R ride height. The front's lower/outer holes are usually used for folks with wagon arms which are 10mm shorter. But my sense is that they figured nobody building an R would use those arms. To do so would mean you're out of luck matching the front of the LCA to the lowered ride height position...unless you got creative and broke out the welder. :rolleyes:

Edit: Scratch that. Looks like you DO have the blocks for the rear bushing mount...

Best,
-j

[FFRSpec72]

Got to spend a few hours today. I finished up the steering rack, but seems a little odd. I have a 02 steering rack so it uses 2 flanges to mount but does not seem to be level. As you can see from the pics, its a little off

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I used the spacers on the left mount

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Here are the spaces on the right

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[Xusia]

As you probably know, you have the passenger side mounted incorrectly. The bracket goes underneath the frame mounting tab, not above it. So from top (of the pic) to bottom, the order should be OEM steering rack bracket, spacer, frame bracket, spacer, FFR supplied steering rack bracket. I hope that makes sense. If not, I can take a pic later. :)

[FFRSpec72]

As you probably know, you have the passenger side mounted incorrectly. The bracket goes underneath the frame mounting tab, not above it. So from top (of the pic) to bottom, the order should be OEM steering rack bracket, spacer, frame bracket, spacer, FFR supplied steering rack bracket. I hope that makes sense. If not, I can take a pic later. :)

Got it thanks, that makes sense now.

[FFRSpec72]

Had some time and got some help, finished the axels and made progress on rear suspension

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Not sure about the lateral links position for the R height, I used the upper holes on both lateral links as both are adjustable

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[C.Plavan]

You got it right. As long as the rear ones are adjustable, you can you use the top holes. When using the top holes, you cant use the stock bars since the toe adjustment bolts do not "catch" the provisions for adjustment. The forward lateral links do not have to be adjustable, so in theory you could sell them to another R owner so they could use them on the rear.

However, your trailing arms are on backwards it looks like. Easy mistake.

They should look like this-
http://i.imgur.com/u9i8JD6l.jpg

[Scargo]

I'm curious about the Whiteline lateral links. Are they steel or aluminum? I think I've read that Whiteline has three durometers of urethane: red, yellow and black. Anyone, please correct me if I'm wrong (for color, in and of itself, means nothing).

Your bushings are their hard black (around 95A) or softer than the yellow (around 85-90A)?
Is anyone planning on using Delrin (acetal homopolymer) in the front lower arm?
Looking good BTW.

C.Plavan: But with these you can adjust camber, too!

[C.Plavan]

You will not need them for camber. You can get ridiculous (Way more than you will ever use) amount of camber with the supplied adjustable top link. I was surprised.

[FFRSpec72]

However, your trailing arms are on backwards it looks like. Easy mistake.

yea we questioned this when installing but looking at the picture on page 100 of the install and subsequent pictures we put them that way thinking the manual knew more than we did. Thanks will put them right.

[FFRSpec72]

I'm curious about the Whiteline lateral links. Are they steel or aluminum? I think I've read that Whiteline has three durometers of urethane: red, yellow and black. Anyone, please correct me if I'm wrong (for color, in and of itself, means nothing).


So thee are steel, they have the black hard rubber

[FFRSpec72]

Got a few more hours today (as I had to put some miles on the new challenge car short block before race season to make sure no issues). I installed the rear control links, I assume that with the R I use the upper holes in the mounts (as the manual did not say anything)? I also corrected the rear trailing arm direction since the FFR manual had it wrong in the picture.

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I went to install the rear Wilwood brakes and ran into a issue as the rotor hits the dust plate since the rotors are larger than stock

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Then upon careful reading there is one line in the Wilwood directions that say Dependent on application, OEM dust shields may need to be modified or removed to prevent interference with brake kit installation. So has anyone else had to drill out the spot welds to remove the rear dust shields ?

I also had a primary inspection on my cage for SPU and ITE classes, I'm sure glad I went with the JDM EJ207 v7 engine as I can run in the under 2 liter classes and don't have to be bothered with the BMW 3 series cars

[longislandwrx]

Yes I drilled/removed my dust shields... use a 1/8 drill bit and drill a 1/16 deep pilot hole. Then use a $5 harbor freight spot weld drill bit. both sides took 10 minutes.

as you are drilling the spot weld, pull back on the dust shield so you know right away when you drilled through the shield, (shield will pull loose)

[apexanimal]

forgive me if you've said this before... what lateral links do you have?

[Scargo]

I agree. Remove. On my fronts (on my STi track car) I repurposed the fronts and used part of them and 3" exhaust tubing to make my own cooling duct. Perhaps the rears could be used this way and reattached? Just musing. First, I have not looked at mine before saying this and will cooling be necessary in the rear?

[C.Plavan]

You will also have to grind and cut the caliper mount ears. There rear Wilwoods are a pain to install compared to the front calipers.

[FFRSpec72]

forgive me if you've said this before... what lateral links do you have?

I have the Whiteline adjustable lateral links, I have gone with Whiteline for all my bushings

[apexanimal]

thank you sir...

[longislandwrx]

Perhaps the rears could be used this way and reattached? Just musing.

There's not much to them, the backing plate covers most of it.

[FFRSpec72]

Wiring harness is coming along nicely, hope to have it back to me next week. Not using any of the steering column controls, the controls will be mounted on the 3/4" cross bar that the R has near the left hand side of dash (it is a motorcycle light/turn/horn control) as it is in easy reach of the driver. So this gives me plenty of knee room around the steering wheel. So only dash switches will be the ON toggle, push button start and the kill switch. Harness is getting the AVCS merged in also (for the JDM engine), ODBII port, all lights (head, tail, turn, license plate, brake, etc.) and factory ECU (JDM).

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[FFRSpec72]

Selected my seat (based upon room and driver position), will be an UltraShield Rally Sport seat, has same base as the Spec Miata seat I run in my challenge car, this also comes in a 10 degree layback so I can squeeze a few more inches out in leg room, the seat has more upper body support than the Spec Miata seat. http://www.ultrashieldrace.com/catalog/Road-Race-Seats/Standard-Road-Race-Seats/Rally-Sport-Seat/160

[Kurk818]

You are making great progress! Awesome job. I just started wiring myself. Will definitely have to get in contact with you at some point and come see it, if you dont mind.

[FFRSpec72]

You are making great progress! Awesome job. I just started wiring myself. Will definitely have to get in contact with you at some point and come see it, if you dont mind.

I'm the last person you want doing wiring as I did my challenge car, and after the first several years racing I was getting outages here and there (and that adds up when you pay to race and you go out with a DNS or DNF), so then replaced the harness with Mustang Medic's well sorted out harness and no issues. So I gave these requirements to Brian Keene @ iWire https://www.facebook.com/pages/IWire-Wiring-Services/115786161784988 and he is doing all the work since is a Subaru wiring expert (does various harness merges for engine swaps, etc.)

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[Kurk818]

I am familiar with iWire. I figured i would give the wiring a try since i'm more or less dieting the wiring of the components that i will not be using and extending/shorting as needed. When it comes to merging two systems or re-configuring, ill pay a pro. Its definitely overwhelming at some points tho.

[Sgt.Gator]

Looking at your wiring list, you might want more than 4 extra. Some that I will want:
CoolShirt pump on a switch, passenger floorboard.
Data Logger on the key.
Power for additional gauges like an AFR gauge, trans temp, diff temp. Switched power for trans, oil, diff cooler fans.
And it would be especially nice if he can build in the required racing kill switch connections.

[FFRSpec72]

Looking at your wiring list, you might want more than 4 extra. Some that I will want:
CoolShirt pump on a switch, passenger floorboard.
Data Logger on the key.
Power for additional gauges like an AFR gauge, trans temp, diff temp. Switched power for trans, oil, diff cooler fans.
And it would be especially nice if he can build in the required racing kill switch connections.

I have upgraded that 2 a total of 8 wire pairs, I also have 4 spare wire pairs in dash area (for data logger, etc.), so that gives me 4 in dash and 8 in engine, I know you can never have enough ! Thanks for reconfirming that adding 4 more was the right move. The kill switch is wired to meet SCCA, NASA and ICSCC rules and will not allow alternator feedback to keep engine running.

[Sgt.Gator]

That should be enough! I hope to see you at the May 9-10-11 races at the Ridge! My Subaru thunder wagon will hopefully be ready for ST class racing by then. I'd love a visit to your house to check out the 818R if you live relatively close by. :cool:
Edit: I see it's 98 miles from Kirkland to The Ridge, better wait for a race at Pacific Raceways for that house call....

[FFRSpec72]

That should be enough! I hope to see you at the May 9-10-11 races at the Ridge! My Subaru thunder wagon will hopefully be ready for ST class racing by then. I'd love a visit to your house to check out the 818R if you live relatively close by. :cool:
Edit: I see it's 98 miles from Kirkland to The Ridge, better wait for a race at Pacific Raceways for that house call....

Looks like we will be in the same run group (4) as I run ITE with my Challenge car. I will miss the opener at Portland and also the Ridge, I will be in Spokane for the triple race weekend. So if you make it to the Pacific raceway you can drop over as I'm about 40 min away.

[FFRSpec72]

Seat ordered, a Ultrashield Rally Sport 10 degree layback. Also ordered NRG steering wheel and hub assemble (Quick Release = Black (SRK-650BK), Short HUB = (SRK-100H), Steering Wheel = (ST-012R))

[FFRSpec72]

Made a little progress, rear calipers took longer that I thought but rear brakes on and centered, also built the power steering loop for the rack

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[FFRSpec72]

iWire has finished my wire harness, see http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14114-iWire-R-Spec-Turn-Key-Wiring-Harness so will do the preliminary install.

[FFRSpec72]

My alternator bracket came in, so now I can get rid of that stock bulky bracket. Part number 11711AA051 (RS alternator bracket) about $22

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[tmoretta]

Do you happen to know the size of fittings required to build the power steering loop?

[FFRSpec72]

Do you happen to know the size of fittings required to build the power steering loop?

I believe that rack uses 2 sizes, 14mm x 1.5 and 16mm x 1.5 I will verify tonight what the loop uses

[Doowop]

Tony, I haven't raced SCCA in a few years and never NASA, but I thought the seats needed to be FIA rated?

[FFRSpec72]

Tony, I haven't raced SCCA in a few years and never NASA, but I thought the seats needed to be FIA rated?

You do not HAVE to run an FIA seat. If you do have an FIA seat, it must be mounted according to the FIA's rules, and it does not need a back brace if it is either not on sliders or if it is on FIA sliders. If you have a non-FIA seat you must have a seat back brace no matter what. NASA enforces the FIA re-cerirtification on FIA seats (FIA seats more than five years old must be re-certified or run a SBB no matter what), while the SCCA is not enforcing the FIA re-certification that I have been aware of. So will have to figure out a back brace for seat, which should not be hard as I did this for my challenge car.

The Ultrashield seats are not seats I want to run a 48 hour enduro in, but the are the best seat for confined space such as the Challenge car and 818.

[Doowop]

Thanks Tony!

[FFRSpec72]

So I did not earn enough points to spend a lot of time on the car this weekend but I managed to get the Killr-B windage tray and Oil pickup installed along with a new larger capacity oil pan, and thus a new dip stick.

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Here is the new bracket installed

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Also I got my wire harness back from iWire, I hooked it up to the engine (standalone) and gout the engine to fire up after the Killer-B install. More on the wire harness to come in the nest few weeks. So I sent the harness away and it weighed 29lbs and I got it back and all electrical components weighed in at 23lbs

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[FFRSpec72]

Off to see the fabricators this week, as I need steel side panels, steel seat floors and aluminum rear fire wall and also get my cockpit to fuel firewall bent @ the right angle.

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[iWire]

So I did not earn enough points to spend a lot of time on the car this weekend but I managed to get the Killr-B windage tray and Oil pickup installed along with a new larger capacity oil pan, and thus a new dip stick.

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Here is the new bracket installed

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Also I got my wire harness back from iWire, I hooked it up to the engine (standalone) and gout the engine to fire up after the Killer-B install. More on the wire harness to come in the nest few weeks. So I sent the harness away and it weighed 29lbs and I got it back and all electrical components weighed in at 23lbs

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49lbs to 23lbs. ;)

Congrats again!

[wleehendrick]

49lbs to 23lbs. ;)

Wow! You win:

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[FFRSpec72]

Nice day, took the R out for a spin around the driveway

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[Brando]

A spin? hah nice. You guys are getting some of the same amazing weather we are. I feel bad to get such nice weather while the east coast is getting pounded.
Those aluminum side panels are a great call. I can't wait to see the final product of your build. One of these days I will cart my car up your way and we should share a track day.

[Doowop]

Tony, to go back to the seats, (sorry), if you install an FIA seat with a back brace, then, you never have to worry about certification or recertification, right? Have you used any good back brack? I always though it was weird to weaken a seat by drilling holes into the back and add a bracket mounted with bolts right in the back of your neck....:rolleyes:

[FFRSpec72]

Tony, to go back to the seats, (sorry), if you install an FIA seat with a back brace, then, you never have to worry about certification or recertification, right? Have you used any good back brack? I always though it was weird to weaken a seat by drilling holes into the back and add a bracket mounted with bolts right in the back of your neck....:rolleyes:

yea, go figure, also you can't use a brace on a composite seat. So I have used the IO Port back seat brace with good luck http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=SBB15 I'm sure that I will have to make this fit as they always need some additional welding, fitting, etc.

[FFRSpec72]

No additional progress this week as I'm away for 2 weeks, I have my steel floor and steel side panels at the powder coaters. My rear firewall is done along with the bending of the FFR supplied firewall. The fuel cell was to ship this week but they are still finishing this up, so hope next week its better

I will have to spend time on my challenge car when I get home as I have the engine torn down since the head gaskets went and the heads got cooked.

[Doowop]

yea, go figure, also you can't use a brace on a composite seat. So I have used the IO Port back seat brace with good luck http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=SBB15 I'm sure that I will have to make this fit as they always need some additional welding, fitting, etc.

when you say that you can't use a brace on a composite seat, you mean, you shouldn't or it's not legally allowed? After doing a little research online I found a shop that build a bracket that mount between the seat belts hole. I like the idea even though I would make the bracket a bit wider than they have it. http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/BMWSpecE30_2.html

[Scargo]

I found a shop that build a bracket that mount between the seat belts hole...http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/BMWSpecE30_2.html
Wow! Somebody has more time and money than they know what do do with. All that to hang onto a seat back? Understanding that a six point harness is going to hold you in place and the seat itself must be bolted down.

[Sgt.Gator]

when you say that you can't use a brace on a composite seat, you mean, you shouldn't or it's not legally allowed? After doing a little research online I found a shop that build a bracket that mount between the seat belts hole. I like the idea even though I would make the bracket a bit wider than they have it. http://www.izzyscustomcages.com/BMWSpecE30_2.html

There is quite a debate about seat back braces on FIA rated seats, composite or not. Sparco says their FIA seats are designed NOT to have a back brace, that the seat is engineered to absorb energy by bending and not breaking. They say if the seat is stiffened by bracing it may actually overload the seat in places and it will break. It's designed to deform as a unit and when you stiffen it the design it won't work properly. They also say it won't absorb energy that will now be passed into the driver and belts instead of the seat. They are clear that all the FIA testing is done without any back bracing and so it may actually be out of compliance (illegal) to mount one with a back brace.

And to clarify, it you are using a Kirkey or UltraShield seat you must use a back brace.

[FFRSpec72]

I agree with Sgt. Gator, at this point you either use an aluminum seat with a back brace or use a composite seat that is mounted via FIA rules and you will be safe. I will use adjustable tracks since I'm 6'0 and my daughter is 5'3" and the seat will have a back brace attached to the rear main hoop

[C.Plavan]

What thickness did you do on the floor and side panels?

[FFRSpec72]

What thickness did you do on the floor and side panels?

I had 1/8" steel floor and side intrusion plates made, also the rear firewall is 1/8" aluminum

[FFRSpec72]

FIA Certified fuel cell is here, see http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13745-818-FIA-Fuel-Cell-Design-Quote&p=160456#post160456 for pictures and details

[FFRSpec72]

So had a few hours this weekend, and I installed the seat flloring, which is 1/8th inch steel, I also put the lower portion of the FFR rear firewall in and set the seat in the car to mock up the seat room. So I get the exact same let room as I have in my challenge car, from from aluminum to rear of seat I have 49", so my legs are flat out, I'm 6' with a 32" inseam. So bottom line is that I have no issue with leg room and having a 12gal fuel cell behind my seat.

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[FFRSpec72]

After 3+ months on back order the Koni shocks finally arrived

[FFRSpec72]

I found a few hours to spend on the car this weekend, I went to install he pedals but was missing the front pedal plate and the throttle pedal mount. So installed the shocks (as they were back ordered for a few months). The manual did not say but I assume for the front shocks I use the upper holes for the R (as pictured)

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[C.Plavan]

I found a few hours to spend on the car this weekend, I went to install he pedals but was missing the front pedal plate and the throttle pedal mount. So installed the shocks (as they were back ordered for a few months). The manual did not say but I assume for the front shocks I use the upper holes for the R (as pictured)

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Yep. Use the upper ones.

[FFRSpec72]

A few more hours tonight, completed the timing belt and water pump replacement and thermostat

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[FFRSpec72]

Any tips on putting engine/trans in as I'm getting ready to do that in a few weeks ? I assume I should do the trans block off plate work before I put engine in ?

[freds]

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Any tips on putting engine/trans in as I'm getting ready to do that in a few weeks ? I assume I should do the trans block off plate work before I put engine in ?

I did, and fitted the assembly into the chassis in an unconventional way...because I have only a chain hoist to use.

So I slung the engine and eased the chassis under the engine. Was really easy as I could inch the assembly down and inch the chassis, on its dolly, under it... both as slowly as was necessary to get it in with absolutely no problems.

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[C.Plavan]

I did the trans block off plate after motor/trans install. It helps you get leverage to get the rear nut off inside the trans.

[FFRSpec72]

I assume all exhaust off and oil filler off ? How about the axles, I have them mounted now, do I have to take them off or will they slip in ?

[AZPete]

Remove the oil filler pipe and the coolant reservoir at the top right.

[Brando]

They slip right in

[FFRSpec72]

So made some progress yesterday as I had some help from the "Boeing" boys (Nick and James who I race with) and Jeff (building a MkIV Roadster). We got one of the anti-intrusion panels installed and got the engine and transmission installed.

So the anti-intrusion panel (1/8th inch steel) is installed on passenger side, minor fit issues due to welds, but nothing an angle grinder can't fix

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Engine and trans took more time, we chose to block off the trans mission when not attached to engine, that went fine no issues, installed new clutch/pressure plate, pilot bearing, no issues, the throw out bearing was a little harder (not seen this kind of setup before. Once that was done we attached trans to engine and they lifted engine and trans into car, the major issue we had was getting the axles in place, after some struggling we got that done and then put the transmission mount in first and then lowered the front of the engine in place and all went in.

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[C.Plavan]

You will have to cut the coolant tube area in the side intrusion plates (Front).

[FFRSpec72]

You will have to cut the coolant tube area in the side intrusion plates (Front).

There has to be a better way to run the cooling pipes, not looking forward to that. I assume you went with the hard lines and not the SS Flex line that FFR provides?

[FFRSpec72]

Well I played hooky from racing this weekend, weather looked real bad, so Saturdays was a washout but looks like I missed some OK weather for Sunday and today, oh well. So I did get some things on the 818 done

I got the front firewall aluminum installed, brake master, clutch master, steering column and pedal box installed.


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I also stared to mount the ear firewall I fabricated, I'm being schooled in aluminum strength by the Boeing engineers, so after much discussion I went with an aluminum 3 piece rear firewall which is removeable from the cabin area. I also used nut plates for installing the rear firewall, which gets me around the rivnut spin problems.

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[FFRSpec72]

I decided to go with brushed aluminum panels coated with Sharkhide, on my challenge ar I went with powder coating, not completely happy so wanted to try this method which seems to be cheaper

[FFRSpec72]

I had some time to play with the car this weekend and I finished installing the drivers side anti-intrusion panel (so now have both driver and passenger side complete), also finished up the front aluminum panels.

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I also finished the rear engine firewall, so now I have a removable firewall between fuel cell and engine. The rear firewall that FFR supplies from tank to seating area has a lot to be desired so I'm going to look at designing a replacement for that also.

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Also mounted the gas pedal, I did a hybrid, as I used the mount from FFR but bolted and riveted the pedal assemble to the FFR bracket and then mounted the FFR bracket, no flex

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[FFRSpec72]

I had some spare time so ran the rear brake lines, I used nickel-copper line, 25' spool and used 20' to run the rear lines, I have one junction and that is att he rear fuel cell area (I used the T that FFR provided). I used 10mm male fittings for master and for left/right brake SS lines. I rant the line down the center console. I don't have the line mounted yet just some zip ties holding it in place until I get the clamps put on.

Here is the master cylinder and line going to rear

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down the center console

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split at then start of the fuel cell area

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passenger side

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Driver's side

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[Rasmus]

Excellent progress.

Also. Clean the lens on your camera. :D

[Sgt.Gator]

In the passenger side pic, how close is the brake line to the exhaust?

[Santiago]

In the passenger side pic, how close is the brake line to the exhaust?

I was wondering the same thing. Seems a bit close.

[FFRSpec72]

I was wondering the same thing. Seems a bit close.

The perspective is not well presented in the pictured, so I have about 5-6 inches between brake line and heat shield. Not many other choices in routing the line. I feel comfortable with the distance, I feel more comfortable than the FFR routing path.

Here is a picture with better perspective

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[FFRSpec72]

I had some time today so I installed the floor panels (1/8" steel plate) and the interior aluminum side panels


Drivers side

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Passenger side

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Passenger side

[longislandwrx]

here's a picture

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sorry to blind you with the knee, I don't get outside enough

[FFRSpec72]

here's a picture

sorry to blind you with the knee, I don't get outside enough

Jeff, thanks much, I understand now how it all fits and what I need to do.

[FFRSpec72]

I started to secure the brake lines, I did not like the FFR provided line tie downs so I bought these brake line tie downs and dipped them in plasti-dip so as to cushion the line. These holder are screwed in like my panels (1/8 hole with M4 tap and M4 screw)

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[Frank818]

Rivets aren't good for the brake lines tie downs?

[FFRSpec72]

Rivets aren't good for the brake lines tie downs?

Just a personal preference, I'm trying to stay away from rivets on anything I think I might have to adjust or remove

[FFRSpec72]

I had some more time yesterday, I ran the shift cables and hooked up the cables to transmission

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I mounted the radiator and stock fans (I have to cut costs and did not buy the add-on fans) and hit 2 problems (1) the bolt that holds the steering rack in hits the bolt for the radiator frame (2) I have 2 different plugs for the fans but harness has only on type of plug (like the black connector). Looks like somehow have an 02 4 wire fan and also a 06+ 3 wire fan, now to find another 02 fan assembly
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And I ran the clutch line down the center console

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[FFRSpec72]

Had some time today so ran the cooling tubes (had to modify my anti-intrusion panels for allow for the tubes), Started to mock up the dead pedal on both drivers and passengers side.

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I also ran the electrical harness

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I also installed the safety harness eye hook mounts

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[Santiago]

Tony, on your anti-intrusion panel, it looks like you've only got 9-10 bolts securing it to the side. Is it welded elsewhere and/or do you have plans to add more attachment points?

In the back of my head I have this vague recollection of reading a regulation (from NASCAR?) that anti-intrusion panels should be fully welded in. I don't think that's necessary, but I get the concern that a panel isn't much good if it gets dislodged in a collision. It's almost comical to see some kid in the tuner scene tape on foam to their door bars (no joke, I have a pic of this somewhere). Anyway, just throwing it out there to get your thoughts on securing the anti-intrusion panels. FWIW, I'll also be bolting mine in, but I had thought to use more points (esp. at the top, where I'll weld in tabs for the job).

Best,
-j

[FFRSpec72]

Tony, on your anti-intrusion panel, it looks like you've only got 9-10 bolts securing it to the side. Is it welded elsewhere and/or do you have plans to add more attachment points?
-j

Right now I have it bolted on, the rules state that you can bolt it on 1/4" bolts as the largest size bolts, I have about 8 bolts per panel now, will increase that once I'm sure I have everything right (I'm only bolting to the 2x2 cross members at this time). On my challenge car I have my panels welded, I want to go with bolts this time as there have been occasions where I needed to get to things and if it was bolted it would have been easier.

[longislandwrx]

Tony, did your harness come with the eye bolts? mine did not. I am trying to find a good source for eyes/clips.

[FFRSpec72]

Tony, did your harness come with the eye bolts? mine did not. I am trying to find a good source for eyes/clips.


There is not much room and its a pain to get to so I went with the eye bolts (G-Force 109H 1/2" 20mm Eyebolt with Nut and Washer) from Amazon for like $6 each, these are compact (length and size of eye) and fit and allow room to attach and detach. When I order my harness in 2015 I will order it with the clip-in plates (like $2.50 each). I use Ultra Shield Racing harness, as I get mine re-webbed every 2 year to stay compliant with the rules and the re web is cheaper than buying all new harness hardware very 2 years.

[longislandwrx]

Yeah I'm just doing mockup with some old RCI harnesses I have. That's perfect, i'll add a few to my next amazon order.

I also found this:

http://www.amazon.com/Simpson-Racing-31020-Floor-Mount/dp/B0006HLUAQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1414425526&sr=8-1&keywords=Simpson+31020

[C.Plavan]

There is not much room and its a pain to get to so I went with the eye bolts (G-Force 109H 1/2" 20mm Eyebolt with Nut and Washer) from Amazon for like $6 each, these are compact (length and size of eye) and fit and allow room to attach and detach. When I order my harness in 2015 I will order it with the clip-in plates (like $2.50 each). I use Ultra Shield Racing harness, as I get mine re-webbed every 2 year to stay compliant with the rules and the re web is cheaper than buying all new harness hardware very 2 years.

Just buy a FIA harness not SFI. FIA are good for 5 years.

[FFRSpec72]

Not much time this week with travel and SEMA this week, so I started to finish up the wiring in the rear/engine area of the car. Using some clips to hold the wires, I can run the wires under the supports where it makes sense.

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[Scargo]

Oh, that is so slick/so clean!
I guess you are drilling 3/16" or 1/4" holes for the clips? There is so much sleeving and heat shrink out there to do a beautiful job with that it is crazy to use tape.

[FFRSpec72]

Oh, that is so slick/so clean!
I guess you are drilling 3/16" or 1/4" holes for the clips? There is so much sleeving and heat shrink out there to do a beautiful job with that it is crazy to use tape.

Yes drilling the hole, I don't like doing this so do it with caution, but the clips work nicely and allow me to tuck the wire where I want

[FFRSpec72]

I finished up the rear area wiring

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Also placed the ECU and ran the main harness down the center console

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[JeromeS13]

The clamp location in your first picture will interfere with the rear bumper.

[FFRSpec72]

The clamp location in your first picture will interfere with the rear bumper.

My initial test fit of the body seemed to fit fine, I will keep an eye out for this, thanks

[Mechie3]

On my car that trans mount interfered with the body and held it downwards. This could be providing extra clearance for the clips which is why you might not have seen any issues.

[FFRSpec72]

Work/travel has slowed me down again, I did get a chance to spend yesterday. I got the cockpit wired (fuse boxes mounted, dash wires routed) and the rear wiring got some additional attention from the Boeing folks who don't like any play in the wire looms/holders so they made sure there was no movement/chafing, this the orange tape at each loom/holder)


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Also got a chance to run some of the front brake lines (SS ones off the calipers)

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[FFRSpec72]

I went to install the throttle cable and I followed the update that came out in manual "i" revision and then realized that I never got the washer and nut to hold the cable in the firewall, so I called FFR and was told that I would have to pay for them as they never supplied any with earlier builds, even though the base manual says that it comes with a nut (with a slot cut in it for the cable).

[Jaime]

I found that to be a nightmare to install - the threads on mine wouldn't line up with the mouth open. I ended up cutting a slot in a 1/4-20 nut and it worked much better than the split nut.

[FFRSpec72]

I found a few hours and the wasted them trying to bleed the clutch and no go, no idea will try some suggestion folks posted.

I did get the fuel lines hooked up and grommets around fuel lines. I also blocked off the evaporator nipple with a metric plug.

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I also finished running the wire harness in the front of the car (still have to tidy it up a bit, but it all fits), I used a 1-3/4 grommet on the firewall (no fun fitting all the connectors through this grommet).

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I also hooked up the gas pedal and got that working, and then wasted more time on trying to bleed the clutch.

[iWire]

Looks great! :D

[Sgt.Gator]

Hi Tony. When I swapped in my 6 speed I had a clutch bleeding problem too. The simple fix was to unbolt the slave cylinder from the tranny, hold it at a 45 degree angle so the bleed screw is at the highest point, either clamp or use finger strength to hold the piston in the cylinder, very slightly crack the bleed screw, then have a helper do the pump clutch pedal >bleed> tighten> release pedal series just like a brake job. I'll post up the Official Subaru directions below. But note the instructions say to use a clamp to hold the piston. I tried a bunch of different clamps, they kept slipping off. Then I discovered my thumb was plenty strong enough! The trick is to slightly crack the bleed screw before your helper pumps the pedal. Since there is little pressure on the piston because the air and fluid are going out the bleed screw your thumb is strong enough to hold the piston.

If you want the Subaru Manual that has the pictures that go with the below instructions PM me with your email and I'll send it to you, or anyone else here.

2. TURBO MODEL
NOTE:
Bleed air from the oil line with help of a co-worker.
1) Remove the operating cylinder.
NOTE:
Do not remove the clutch hose.

2) Fix the piston with clamp to avoid the piston from jumping out.

3) Fit one end of a vinyl tube into the air bleeder of operating cylinder and put the other end into a brake fluid container.

4) Slowly depress the clutch pedal and keep it depressed. Then open the air bleeder to discharge air together with the fluid. Release the air bleeder for 1 or 2 seconds. Next,with the bleeder closed, slowly release the clutch pedal.
NOTE:
Set the air breather screw part higher than tip of operating cylinder when performing this procedure.

5) Repeat these steps until there are no more air bubbles in the vinyl tube.
CAUTION:
Cover the bleeder with waste cloth when loosening it, to prevent brake fluid from being splashed over surrounding parts.

6) Tighten the air bleeder.
Tightening torque: 8 N·m (0.8 kgf-m, 5.8 ft-lb)

7) Install the operating cylinder.
Tightening torque:
5MT model: 37 N·m (3.8 kgf-m, 27.5 ft-lb)

6MT model: 41 N·m (4.2 kgf-m, 30.2 ft-lb)

8) After depressing the clutch pedal, make sure that there are no leaks evident in the entire system.

9) After bleeding air from the system, ensure that clutch operates properly.

[FFRSpec72]

I removed the clevis from the clutch pedal and pumped by hand, I also had the slave piston clamped down, so I have about half a pedal now, so I think there is still air in there or there is something wrong with the clutch rod at the pedal (just using stock/donor rod). I will try to remove slave and point it up and see if I can get some more air out of it. Thanks for posting.

[metalmaker12]

If your getting a pedal and it is staying there than you have air. It is when you get a pedal and loose that pressure that there is an issue.

[nuisance]

Tony, when I installed my clutch, I did everything I could think of, including Sarge's tricks above, and with a pressure bleeder, and still had half a pedal, and no bubbles. I then started feeling the linkage myself, and decided it wasn't right. I pulled the fork out, and found that the throwout bearing wasn't fully snapped into the fingers (my first time with a pull type throwout bearing). When I snapped it in then everything was good. I did not need to pull the tranny to do this.

[FFRSpec72]

Tony, when I installed my clutch, I did everything I could think of, including Sarge's tricks above, and with a pressure bleeder, and still had half a pedal, and no bubbles. I then started feeling the linkage myself, and decided it wasn't right. I pulled the fork out, and found that the throwout bearing wasn't fully snapped into the fingers (my first time with a pull type throwout bearing). When I snapped it in then everything was good. I did not need to pull the tranny to do this.

So do I pull off the fork boot and look inside ? I don't think that I could get the fork out as I had a hard time to change the throw out bearing as it was (maybe it was just the throw out bearing that had an issue). So I imagine I take off starter, remove hex bolt and then take out that fork shaft and pull the fork out and then see if the TOB is set in the clutch fingers correctly and then reassemble ?

[nuisance]

Take the fork boot off. Now I can't remember if the fork came out, or if I just stuck a lever in there and pushed the TOB forward. The throwout bearing should be snapped into the clutch fingers. You should not be able to slide it rearward at all.

[FFRSpec72]

Had a few hours to spend over the long weekend, I did not make any real progress on the clutch problem, will leave that for another day

I did get the shifter mounted and console mocked up to make sure all would fit and align, I have not attached the shift linkage and adjusted it as I was missing the nuts that go to the ends of the cables

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I also got the ECU mounted based upon the where the fuel cell, console and wiring are routed

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I also fixed the steering rack and was able to tighten it up (as wrong bracket and instructions came with the car), the bracket no longer is in contact with the steering rack, so no metal on metal, and I can now tighten the nuts on the bracket.

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[FFRSpec72]

Not much time as I had to clean the garage and also install new carpet in the F150 (not a fun task).

I got the dead pedals fabricated (not mounted to floor or side yet, so once that is done they will sung up and have no gaps), thanks longislandwrx.

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[FFRSpec72]

So going a little high tech (more than the Challenge car), I went to the research area here at work and got a direct sunlight display (7" prototype tablet), this will hook up to my new Race Capture Mk2 (that just arrived), so I will have ODBII input and also separate sensor input all delivered to tablet over Bluetooth from the Race Capture MK2 (also will be able to stream live data via data plan). Tablet will be mounted on steering column in front of the dash (but can still see dash, will use the tabs that teh stock steering column has now), so I will be able to control the GoPro 4 from here also. With the new MyLaps X2 interface I can also feed in exact lap times as recorded.

[FFRSpec72]

Got to spend z few hours tonight so got the console figured out on how I want to mount it and where it will reside.

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[Frank818]

Tony, I'm surprised about the alu plate at the top of the dash support (the highest point of the console). That did not come from FFR, right?

[FFRSpec72]

Tony, I'm surprised about the alu plate at the top of the dash support (the highest point of the console). That did not come from FFR, right?

No, that was added as a mount point (.063 aluminum) , it fits in under the plastic dash, it will most likely go under the 3/4" bar (as opposed to the top as in the picture) so the plastic dash underside lip sits on top (and can be attached to the mount and be used as dash support as at the same time provide mount support for the console) The console will be screwed in along the sides and at the mount point so it can be removed.

[FFRSpec72]

Found a little time today, installed the ebrake, made a mounting plate out of 10 gauge steel, used the stock cable mount for now, will change that out since I have moved the firewall back and the stock one no longer fits

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I also mounted the under the seat anti-intrusion plates and mounted the sliders and seat with grade 8 bolts. The seat now fits me and my daughter with about 8" of travel, I pass the height test with my helmet on, my helmet is right at the height of the back of the seat. The seat is a tight fit not much room on each side of the sliders.

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I also mounted the OBDII connector, I bought ODBII octopus so I can connect the data logger and also have the connector for ecu updates etc.

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I also installed the Data Capture Mk2

36993

[FFRSpec72]

Here are a few pics of the console and seat

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I also mounted the and hooked up the fuel cell

36997

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I also installed the Data Capture Mk2


Hi Tony,
Does the MK2 support the SSM protocol that comes out of our ECU's?
On the website, it talks about newer CANbus ECU's
Bob

[Kurk818]

Its good to see you making great progress. Will have to come and see it once you have it driving.

[C.Plavan]

I like the center console, looks great. That's one thing I would like to finish at some point.

You are going to need to remount the datalogger for 2 reasons:
1: It needs to be mounted flat (for yaw sensors)and the correct Front/Rear orientation. (You can mount upside down and switch the axis values)
2: Be careful mounting high dollar stuff with open ports facing "up". Water or other junk will get in there eventually.

Are your washers on the wrong side of the harness eye bolts?

You may want to move your sub belt mount. From that seating position, it is dangerous. I'm not sure why FFR welded those sub belt mounts there, 95% of people should not be using them with the seat orientation. Just go to the floor.

[Frank818]

Hey you did the same mod on the center console as I did, bending that top tab 180 around under the dash. You did it better than I did, though. :)

[FFRSpec72]

Hi Tony,
Does the MK2 support the SSM protocol that comes out of our ECU's?
On the website, it talks about newer CANbus ECU's
Bob

The answer is yes with a firmware update and a cable ODBII to CAN, so going from a slow bus to a faster bus should not be a problem

[FFRSpec72]

I like the center console, looks great. That's one thing I would like to finish at some point.

You are going to need to remount the datalogger for 2 reasons:
1: It needs to be mounted flat (for yaw sensors)and the correct Front/Rear orientation. (You can mount upside down and switch the axis values)
2: Be careful mounting high dollar stuff with open ports facing "up". Water or other junk will get in there eventually.

Are your washers on the wrong side of the harness eye bolts?

You may want to move your sub belt mount. From that seating position, it is dangerous. I'm not sure why FFR welded those sub belt mounts there, 95% of people should not be using them with the seat orientation. Just go to the floor.

Chad, thanks for the suggestions.

I agree on the mounting of the Data Capture, I will loose slip yaw but have roll yaw if I mount this way, also I agree with the crap getting in the open ports, may change the mount, just not much open space.

Good catch on the washers, yes they were reversed, so changed that. I also moved the sub harness attach point per your suggestion and have gone to the steel floor plate.

[FFRSpec72]

Hey you did the same mod on the center console as I did, bending that top tab 180 around under the dash. You did it better than I did, though. :)

I made a new face plate, as bending the original one did not work that great

[FFRSpec72]

I had some time yesterday also, so I finished some minor things and corrected some of the seat issues. I also finished up the dead pedals and fitted them

37027 37028

I also started to rivet some of the front firewall panels, using black oversized anodized rivets

37029

[Hindsight]

Are the dead pedals custom that you added over the top of what FFR provides? Looks different from my S.
http://i.imgur.com/pHI2276.jpg

[Bob_n_Cincy]

The answer is yes with a firmware update and a cable ODBII to CAN, so going from a slow bus to a faster bus should not be a problem

Thanks Tony,
That is good news.
The published info on their website only talks about 2008+ ECU's.

http://www.autosportlabs.com/racecapturepro-canobd2-interface/

http://www.autosportlabs.com/product/can-bus-obd-ii-cable/

Bob

[Frank818]

I made a new face plate, as bending the original one did not work that great

You make your own alu plates/panels?

[FFRSpec72]

You make your own alu plates/panels?

Yes when needed, not very good at it.

[FFRSpec72]

I finished the front brake lines.

37099 37100 37101 37102

I also installed the proportioning valve, I will run a front and rear valve, I just installed the front, have to order a rear one, I used 2 1/8npt to 3/16th 90 degree adapters. Both valves will sit side by side

37103 37104 37105 37107

My EJ302 came back machine shop

37106

[FFRSpec72]

Are the dead pedals custom that you added over the top of what FFR provides? Looks different from my S.


The frame on the R does not angle in, and thus the dead pedals don't fit, so had to add a piece over top and thus the dead pedals are now same size bottom to top

[Frank818]

Nice, really nice! Beautiful!!!

[FFRSpec72]

Zero sum day as I did not like how the front portion of the reasr brake lines were routed, so I spent the day redoing them (remove console, ebrake, etc.)

37192 37193

[Harley818]

Hey Tony, looking good.
I'm focused on my wiring for the last couple weeks. Beat it into submission and starting to look less like a rats nest.
Nice job on the console, shifter and ebrake. thats next for me, so it was good to see how you did. I'm doing the longislandwrx shifter mod lowering it down into the tunnel.
I ended up re-doing my brake lines a couple times to get it right. Nothing is worse than looking at your finished car thinking you could have done a better job. Do it right the first time. Yours looks good.

[FFRSpec72]

Hey Tony, looking good.
I'm focused on my wiring for the last couple weeks. Beat it into submission and starting to look less like a rats nest.
Nice job on the console, shifter and ebrake. thats next for me, so it was good to see how you did. I'm doing the longislandwrx shifter mod lowering it down into the tunnel.
I ended up re-doing my brake lines a couple times to get it right. Nothing is worse than looking at your finished car thinking you could have done a better job. Do it right the first time. Yours looks good.

Thanks, I thought that before I put fluid in the system now is the the time to do any changes as it will be worse once the fluid is in the system. My weakest point is the wiring, thus I subbed that out to iWire, I wish that I could have done that but it would take me years

[FFRSpec72]

Had time today but did not get much done as I had to decide where to put the ignition panel, I did not want to take up dash space as I will add some more gauges and they are more important to be in my line of sight than the ignition panel so I choose to put it to the left of the steering column and still in reach It will all meet tech inspection.


37242 37243

[FFRSpec72]

I remounted the Data Capture Pro today, under dash (away from weather, etc.) so I can reach it to turn logging on/off manually if I need to do so.

37339 37340 37341

I also sharkskin coated and mounted (temporally) the front suspension splash panels

37342 37343

[FFRSpec72]

I found this interesting for folks buying an engine and want to make sure it is what you expect it to actually be http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?41847-EJ205-EJ207-EJ208-Short-Block-Identification When I purchased mine I made sure it was an EJ207v7

37626 37637

[flynntuna]

I found this interesting for folks buying an engine and want to make sure it is what you expect it to actually be http://clubsub.org.nz/forum/showthread.php?41847-EJ205-EJ207-EJ208-Short-Block-Identification When I purchased mine I made sure it was an EJ207v7

37626

Good to know, thanks. You should post this in the sticky in the engine thread. :D

[FFRSpec72]

I finished the rear proportioning valve, so brakes are done, still have to bleed them though, so I should now be able to adjust out any brake issues I may have with both valves

37638

I added two power distribution block, 1 for constant 12v and the other for key-on 12v

37639

I also moved the location of the remote oil filter so I can get the shortest lines, easy changing and out of the way

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[soaringDude]

Coming along very nicely!

[soaringDude]

What data inputs are you feeding the capture pro?


I remounted the Data Capture Pro today, under dash (away from weather, etc.) so I can reach it to turn logging on/off manually if I need to do so.

37339 37340 37341

I also sharkskin coated and mounted (temporally) the front suspension splash panels

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[Scargo]

Tony, why are you using two proportioning valves? I thought it was typically only the rear they were used on. Is it to affect overall sensitivity and responsiveness?
I like the tapping and use of the coated clamps.

[FFRSpec72]

Tony, why are you using two proportioning valves? I thought it was typically only the rear they were used on. Is it to affect overall sensitivity and responsiveness?
I like the tapping and use of the coated clamps.

True, but I'm not convinced yet on the braking system on the 818, on the Challenge car I knew ahead of time I would only need a rear, so I plumbed both a front and rear in the 818 just in case since Jim indicated that the way the 818 is set up is a little bias on the front, but I'm not as concerned with the front locking up as I am the rear. so for safety I went with both as it was easier to do this now then later.

[FFRSpec72]

What data inputs are you feeding the capture pro?

So I will have boost, oil pressure (from a new galley plug), oil temp (from remote oil fill bung), water temp (heater bypass), RPM, along with any of the ODBII data and the outputs from RCP will be yaw (slip and roll), acceleration, GPS

[FFRSpec72]

Oil pressure sender (remote), will go in the galley and replace the galley plug (galley plug with 1/8" NPT, 1/8" NPT coupler, grease gun hose, sender)

37658

Fire system ready to install the nozzles now, AFFF 4.0L system with 6 nozzles and 2 activation pulls (one for me, one for corner workers)

37659

[FFRSpec72]

I found some time over the weekend, so I attempted to bleed the brakes, well I had a leak it was in 2 cheap couplers I bout from Autozone, and as it figures was in a very hard to reach spot (in the console tunnel), so once I changed out the couplers (hours later) I had no issues, so I now have a solid brake pedal.

I also found some time to install the oil cooler and the remote oil filter, decided to install on passenger side, this is a puller fan, I also hope to catch some air from the side of the car, now to plumb up the oil cooler. So I put the side panel on to make sure I had the clearance and that I would catch the air, the mount is welded to the frame and sticks out just a tad over 3" from the side of the frame. I wanted the oil filter in a spot where I could change w/o removing the under the frame/engine panel and close to the oil cooler and engine block off plate.

38103 38104 38105

[FFRSpec72]

I had some time this weekend, I welded in the tabs for the fire nozzles and the corner workers emergency pull.

Put 3 nozzles in the rear, one in the center to cover the front of engine, one to cover turbo, one to cover fuel lines

38580

2 nozzles in the cockpit area, one on steering column to cover lower torso, one on side to cover upper torso

38581

one in fuel cell area

38582

emergency pull for corner workers

38583

[Steve Powell]

Dude, is that fire pull handle on the passengers side? Can you reach it from the drivers seat while belted in? If you're on fire you don't want to be waiting for those corner workers to show up. Never mind I see you have two pull handles......................

[FFRSpec72]

The oil cooler and remote oil filter are plumbed now, lines and couplings from Paragon Performance

38672

[FFRSpec72]

A fellow local R builder just de-powerd my rack, what a difference in resistance, I can turn the rack gears by hand now, should get more road feedback now. Now I have to re-install the rack (I just hate putting things together, then taking them apart and then putting them back together).

[FFRSpec72]

Had some time over the weekend, slow but some progress, I wired up the remote kill switch (I have one near driver and one on passenger side for corner workers), also mounted the fire suppression tank, I had a slight change in plans since I went with an AFFF system I had to mount horizontal


38783 38784

I also figured out were the seat back brace would go and how it gets mounted, I had to move the ECU (poor planning on my part)

38785 38787

I mounted the inter cooler, there sure does not look like there is a lot of room as it sits pretty high, will have to see if it clears the body panels

38786

[Scargo]

Nice work.
That's how I feel. Slowly crawling forward at my snail's pace.

[FFRSpec72]

I started on the body work, I decided to use Nut Plates for the side panels and rear bumper/tail section, so this took a little extra work, taking interior apart again, but the results were great, as I have removable panels now. I looked at doing quarter turn fasteners but just not sure I could get the body tight enough.

I will most likely not go with hinges for the rear cover but figure out a way to use some pins or aviation latch.

39007 39008 39009

[Scargo]

When you say tight enough, do you mean the ability to draw misaligning parts together or pull them into place (and them be tight)? I know I have struggled a little with a few 1/4 turns, just trying to draw the two parts together.
I like the nylon and SS washer combo.
I think I will try and incorporate these pins into my hinge/fastening system where I can:

39011

[FFRSpec72]

When you say tight enough, do you mean the ability to draw misaligning parts together or pull them into place (and them be tight)? I know I have struggled a little with a few 1/4 turns, just trying to draw the two parts together.
I like the nylon and SS washer combo.
I think I will try and incorporate these pins into my hinge/fastening system where I can:



Both, so I used the nut plates to draw the body to the frame and also to draw the rear bumper to the side panels (I did not use the bolts as I wanted to avoid having to have a wrench around to take off body). So will you be using those pins instead of the FFR hood pins ? Have you installed any yet, I like them would like to see how they look and how you installed them.

[Hindsight]

Love the wiring... very clean. Is that split braid sleeving? What brand did you go with?

[FFRSpec72]

Exhaust is finally on

39123 39124 39125

[FFRSpec72]

Spent the weekend working on the wing mount and anti-intrusion for transmission, ran into some issues with exhaust, shifting linkage, tail light housings and rear deck humps being in the way but I think with some mods this will be good to go this weekend, the frame will provide anti-intrusion for transaxle, and mount supports for the rear deck pins/latches along with rear deck support if needed.

[Sgt.Gator]

Are you going to be at ORP this Sunday with the 818?

[FFRSpec72]

Are you going to be at ORP this Sunday with the 818?

Nope the earliest it will be done is at the start of regular season (end April/start of May)

[FFRSpec72]

I finished up the seat back brace

39517 3951839519

I also added a mirror mount (and other dash junk that need to be mounted)

39520

I also finished the wing mount. The mount will serve as transaxle anti-intrusion and mounts for the rear deck lid. You can see the thread "New APR Wing Mount" for pictures. I think I will be notching the rear deck lid and having a quick release wing as I don't want the wing to get damaged by taking it on an off, the wing can be unbolted if I need to do so

[Kurk818]

Would being rear ended and engine shifting forward potentially launch the brace into your back?

[FFRSpec72]

Would being rear ended and engine shifting forward potentially launch the brace into your back?

No, as I looked at that when figuring out where to put the brace, so you can't tell from the picture but the tube has a non-obstructed path backwards, so if the engine gets shoved forward the tube/brace will not be in the way. The tube also will be shortened.

[C.Plavan]

I just want to put it out there for others looking at this- My 818R passed without the seat back brace. I pushed the firewall back and my seat is against the firewall. The Tech's said that is as good as a brace (I smashed SFI flat padding between the seat and firewall as cushion). It just depends on the Techs as Tony's said he needed it. I personally have never come across a tech that said a mid engine car needs one if seat is against firewall (914's ect) but your YMMV. It's not a bad thing to have (I have one on my 911) but a firewall is plenty strong also.

[FFRSpec72]

I just want to put it out there for others looking at this- My 818R passed without the seat back brace. I pushed the firewall back and my seat is against the firewall. The Tech's said that is as good as a brace (I smashed SFI flat padding between the seat and firewall as cushion). It just depends on the Techs as Tony's said he needed it. I personally have never come across a tech that said a mid engine car needs one if seat is against firewall (914's ect) but your YMMV. It's not a bad thing to have (I have one on my 911) but a firewall is plenty strong also.

Completely agree if you can use the firewall use it as this was a pain to do and costs more money !

[D Clary]

I don't see how you got so far from the firewall. I am short and my seatback is touching.

[FFRSpec72]

I don't see how you got so far from the firewall. I am short and my seatback is touching.

I have a thin fuel cell, so I pushed the firewall back 5" from the FFR position and changing the firewall angle and how it fits