FFRSpec72 818R Build Seattle WA

[fryguy]

I have a thin fuel cell, so I pushed the firewall back 5" from the FFR position and changing the firewall angle and how it fits

How did you bend the firewall the additional angle? That's a pretty thick piece of aluminum and don't want to crack it.

[FFRSpec72]

How did you bend the firewall the additional angle? That's a pretty thick piece of aluminum and don't want to crack it.

So I modified the bottom piece (made it shorter, also wanted to get rid of that very odd shaped opening that FFR has in the rear firewall) and having a new top piece built.

[AZPete]

Fryguy, I took my firewall piece to a metal shop that has a big bending brake and they bent it 20 degrees. In other words, they bent an additional 20 degrees into the bend that is at the front of the narrow shelf, the second bend from the top. I think I paid $40 and waited a week for them to get to it so call around to see who can do it for you.
That was for the Boyd fuel tank.

[FFRSpec72]

Not much time in the past several weeks as I have been working on my Challenge car as that has to be on track at end of this month. With Shane (of VRaptor) have completed the transaxle protection, so this works in conjunction with the wing mount from Shane.

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Working on rear deck supports and fasteners next.

[fryguy]

Right now I have it bolted on, the rules state that you can bolt it on 1/4" bolts as the largest size bolts, I have about 8 bolts per panel now, will increase that once I'm sure I have everything right (I'm only bolting to the 2x2 cross members at this time). On my challenge car I have my panels welded, I want to go with bolts this time as there have been occasions where I needed to get to things and if it was bolted it would have been easier.

I couldn't find any requirements in the NASA ST rules for anti-intrusion panels. I was trying to figure out why you went with 1/8" for the panels and realized (I think) you are using the Challenge Series rules? Then I noticed it says weld or u-bolt in the rules. Am I looking in the wrong place or are we in a gray area on mounting these panels?

I like the idea of welding the panels. Do you still think you might need to remove the side panels occasionally?

[FFRSpec72]

I couldn't find any requirements in the NASA ST rules for anti-intrusion panels. I was trying to figure out why you went with 1/8" for the panels and realized (I think) you are using the Challenge Series rules? Then I noticed it says weld or u-bolt in the rules. Am I looking in the wrong place or are we in a gray area on mounting these panels?

I like the idea of welding the panels. Do you still think you might need to remove the side panels occasionally?

So anti-instruction panels are optional, and not required for any class that I run currently. I use them for my own and daughter's safety and they also help distribute the impact force if T-Boned. The mounting is in the gray area, the FIA rules say that these can be bolted to cage but using bolts no larger than 1/4". My challenge car I welded these on and never had an issue. I have chosen to bolt these on just because I have no idea is I will need to take these off or if these will get in the way of anything and so far I can't think of any time I needed to remove these.

[longislandwrx]

did you use rivnuts or just drill and tap the frame?

[FFRSpec72]

did you use rivnuts or just drill and tap the frame?

I went through the square tubing only and used 1/4-20 screws and nuts

[FFRSpec72]

I have been on extended travel so have not had much time to spend but this weekend I got most of the body fit (roughly) and will fine tune it this week. As most have indicated previously the headlights were the biggest issue and they still need to be fixed a little more and I need to build a support bracket.I built a support bracket for the doors and attached it to door hinge bracket on the frame and then tapped the holes in the frame since it was 1/8 thick.I have made brackets for the front bumper I just need to weld these to the frame this week once I get everything lined up.

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[Kurk818]

Looking good Tony. I was beginning to wonder where you went. Glad to see you back at it. Ill have mine in Bellevue on the 26th for WSP inspection. Maybe you can stop by.

[FFRSpec72]

Looking good Tony. I was beginning to wonder where you went. Glad to see you back at it. Ill have mine in Bellevue on the 26th for WSP inspection. Maybe you can stop by.

Would love to stop by on the 26th, let me know the details please. you were right the on the headlights, I could not just "slap those puppies in" took a while and they are still not perfect.

[Kurk818]

Would love to stop by on the 26th, let me know the details please. you were right the on the headlights, I could not just "slap those puppies in" took a while and they are still not perfect.

Ill show you what i did on mine. White door edging similar to the black that is seen everywhere seals the final irregularities. I ended up with some air voids under the gelcoat that was unsightly and the trim was the perfect finish. Unfortunately, the lengths it comes in is approx 3" too short to go the length of the headlight.

http://i.imgur.com/vqGR0FTl.jpg

[FFRSpec72]

Ill show you what i did on mine. White door edging similar to the black that is seen everywhere seals the final irregularities. I ended up with some air voids under the gelcoat that was unsightly and the trim was the perfect finish. Unfortunately, the lengths it comes in is approx 3" too short to go the length of the headlight.

http://i.imgur.com/vqGR0FTl.jpg

Looks like you made you own bracket that goes from the back of the headlight assemble to the frame support and did not use the bracket on the headlight ?

[Kurk818]

Looks like you made you own bracket that goes from the back of the headlight assemble to the frame support and did not use the bracket on the headlight ?

Yes, i did. The bracket was way too high and was forcing my headlights down. The angle on the bracket was also too far back for my fitment. It was the simple solution for proper alignment and fitment within the bucket

[Harley818]

Hi Tony,

Following up on a couple items we discussed when I stopped by on the weekend:

Tapping into coolant line - see my thread post #76 for some good pictures

Coolant temp sensor - see pic in post #42 - its connected into the coolant tube right next to the oil pressure sensor near the alternator.

Turbo coolant line connection to the upper coolant tank - see my threat post # 85, picture 5. The top connection we were talking to goes directly to the turbo, the one underneath that I was showing you connects to a coolant line that comes from under the intake manifold. I'll see if I can get better pictures for you now that I'm home. I'll be taking my intercooler off when I get the new Air-water IC set up.

Thanks for taking the time on the weekend, its was great to compare notes.

[FFRSpec72]

Hi Tony,

Following up on a couple items we discussed when I stopped by on the weekend:



Thanks Harley for the follow up, was great to meet you and discuss the various aspects of the build. Did you say that someone had the Cobb AccessPort on sale ?

[FFRSpec72]

I started to take a different approach on the body, we found the center of the frame, and then centered the front bumper, then the fenders and then the rear bumper so that the entire body was centered, no I can start to fit the lights, hood and rear decks. Also i'm going for a wider gap at the doors to keep the surface air moving down the side of the car.

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[FFRSpec72]

I also switched over to the group N motor and transmission mounts (I guess I should have done this before as it was just a little awkward doing this after engine and transmission were in car)

[Harley818]

Tony here is a picture of the bracket to mount the front of the fender to the headlight bucket area and the front bumper. The hood pins mount in the hole on the right. The higher point is to secure the front of your fender above the light.

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Also I took a couple pictures of my Cobb intake location.
The Cobb intake itself is straight, but it has a small hose section you can add (extra $$65) that allows you to angle the Cobb back a bit. You can see my two catch cans right there as well as all the related hoses.
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I don't recall who had them on sale, but it was on the forum here somewhere. I'll see if I can find it. AJW?

[FFRSpec72]

Harley, thanks for the pics, do you have a pic of your throttle body warm up bypass ?


Also looks like I will need to mod the shock tower brace as my waste gate will hit

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[Harley818]

Now that I took off the air-air IC, I should be able to get a pic for you.
Where did you get the adapter for the oil port to oil pressure gauge that you showed me? Do you have part no & source?

Check post #451 on Andrew & Tamras build thread to see the brace mod that they did. You don't need to cut that much, and if I were you I would just double up the bottom tube and cut out what you need to clear the turbo wastegate. I think Sponagule also did a similar mod.

[Mitch Wright]

I bought the oil port adaptor from Prosport Gauges www.prosportgauges.com Part Number PSNUT it is $13.00 and shipping was free.

Thanks goes to another builder for posting the Prosport contact a while back.

[Tamra]

Here's the pic in case you don't want to search :) We painted after this photo, but it shows the areas we cut/reinforced pretty clearly.

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/DB53AD54-3E57-49EB-9288-41CA727AD53A_zpsdwqxbuij.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/DB53AD54-3E57-49EB-9288-41CA727AD53A_zpsdwqxbuij.jpg.html)

[FFRSpec72]

Here's the pic in case you don't want to search :) We painted after this photo, but it shows the areas we cut/reinforced pretty clearly.



Did you use a larger top bar on the shock tower brace (as it looks like it was replaced) ?

[FFRSpec72]

I bought the oil port adaptor from Prosport Gauges www.prosportgauges.com (http://www.prosportgauges.com) Part Number PSNUT it is $13.00 and shipping was free.

Thanks goes to another builder for posting the Prosport contact a while back.

Harley see this thread as I list the part numbers there http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?16866-Oil-pressure-switch-What-are-you-doing

[Harley818]

I bought the oil port adaptor from Prosport Gauges www.prosportgauges.com Part Number PSNUT it is $13.00 and shipping was free.

Thanks goes to another builder for posting the Prosport contact a while back.

I notice on Prosport website that they have a "oil filter adapter plate" that mounts between the oil filter and the oil pre-heat/cooler. This would give the best location for pressure and temp of flowing oil. Anyone use this? Any reason why this isn't a good idea......looks like a good solution to me and I don't have to fight to get two sensors into difficult postions on the block and can retain my stock oil sensors.

Just followed up on your link Tony. Looks like this was discussed but there was no negative comments on the sandwich plate. I like that solution for $35.

[Scargo]

I will continue to beat the drum for a solution like mine. Not that it is the only solution or the only parts available. It's been a solution for me on my track car.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=29906&d=1402241119
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=29902&stc=1
This Canton adapter is a beefy part (https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/product/22-597/22-597----UNIV-90-DEGREE-ROTATING-REMOTE-FILTER-ADAPTER-20MM/) and could easily be tapped for sensors or fittings. Then you have a remote filter of your choice and the ability to add an oil cooler. However, I would prefer to not see wires and sensors down in the super hot hell-hole of the exhaust system where the stock filter is located. Wrapping the exhaust is an absolute necessity, too. I think this approach is very important for anyone who is going to do any extended performance driving.

[C.Plavan]

Harley, thanks for the pics, do you have a pic of your throttle body warm up bypass ?


Also looks like I will need to mod the shock tower brace as my waste gate will hit

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I would try and loosen the motor and trans mounts and nudge the motor/trans forward. There is some wiggle room there. Its easier to do when putting the motor in. No need to cut/weld. Both my TD04 and Blouch have plenty of room with the Group N mounts.

[FFRSpec72]

I would try and loosen the motor and trans mounts and nudge the motor/trans forward. There is some wiggle room there. Its easier to do when putting the motor in. No need to cut/weld. Both my TD04 and Blouch have plenty of room with the Group N mounts.

Thanks for the suggestion, I hooked up the hoist and tried to nudge the engine/transmission forward but I'm also up against the transmission mount not having any more movement backwards for the passenger side, it bought me a little more room but the waste gate still hits and will not fully operate.

[FFRSpec72]

I had a few hours in between trying to fix and prep the challenge car for this coming weekend. So I tapped the water outlet for burping the cooling system and hooked up the IC and other solenoids.


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[Mitch Wright]

I have Cusco engine and Trans mounts, the stud on the engine mounts is offset (I think about 3/8") not sure if the group N or OE mounts are offset the same but the offset does effect the engine location.
Something else to look at.

[Harley818]

I just double checked mine and my engine is about an inch lower than yours. My wastegate is in the same position, and if it was higher it would also hit the crossbar.
Something is setting your engine position higher. I also have the Group N mounts for the engine and trans.
Yours is an early frame - could it be slightly different?

[Tamra]

You can also slide the engine left-right. If it is slid toward the passenger side, it would be raised up on that side due to the angle of the mounts. Try moving it slightly toward the driver side (or centered if you are not currently) and see if that helps. The transmission mount will let you twist left to right more easily.

[FFRSpec72]

You can also slide the engine left-right. If it is slid toward the passenger side, it would be raised up on that side due to the angle of the mounts. Try moving it slightly toward the driver side (or centered if you are not currently) and see if that helps. The transmission mount will let you twist left to right more easily.

I will look at that tonight and see how centered it is on the moto mount hole

[FFRSpec72]

So the motor mounts are mounted at an equal distance on each side (engine is level). So that does not seem to be the problem. Both mounts are almost at the bottom (there is about a 1/4 inch of the slot left).

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Passenger side mount

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Drivers side mount

[FFRSpec72]

It's been a while as racing season has started and you have to race with what is already prepared.

So installed the front splash panels and the front splitter aluminum along with running a hard line from front radiator to rear for bleeding air and re routed the oil cooler lines. Ordered a Speedhut dual oil pressure and oil temperature gauge for dash. Ordered longer shift cables as the ones from Wayne's shifter kit were tight and not a real good fit for my routing.

[FFRSpec72]

So more time has passed and some progress has been made, I received my 2 speedhut gauges (2 dual function gauges, (1) oil pressure/oil temp, (2) Water Temp/fuel pressure) these have been wired in.

I welded a 1/8npt bung into the aluminum radiator tube coming out of the engine on the passengers side for water temp, will get oil temp form the remote filter mount, oil pressure is from galley plug near turbo and fuel pressure is on fuel line going to engine.

Most everything is together, minor time consuming crap is left and a lot of clean up, few more weeks (if the Challenge car stays running) and should be complete enough to go-cart and do some testing.

[Mitch Wright]

I think we all have a good understanding of all the little 10 minute jobs (at least 3 hours each) Congratulation on getting close to go karting..

[FFRSpec72]

Getting closer ! All the cleco were removed and all aluminum is riveted, I'm on the last 100 mile journey now !

[Mechie3]

Have you cut your rear bumper yet for your mesh for the exhaust? I'm still thinking of either cutting and rewelding it or just trying to bend it upwards more to be centered.

[FFRSpec72]

Have you cut your rear bumper yet for your mesh for the exhaust? I'm still thinking of either cutting and rewelding it or just trying to bend it upwards more to be centered.

I have not done this yet, not sure what I will do, I will most likely cut and reweld

[FFRSpec72]

Installed the Speedhut gauges (dual display), Oil Pressure/Oil Temperature and Water Temperature/Fuel Pressure

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[Sgt.Gator]

I was hoping to see you and the car at The Ridge this last weekend. You missed some great rain racing. I've got good video of mowing grass and 4 wheeling a couple of times!
A couple of nice cars got banged up, luckily wet weather accidents tend to be lower impact. Except one open wheel guy who hit the tire wall and didn't take his hands off the steering wheel first.....

All in all the racing was fun though. I hope you have your 818 ready for next season!

[Frank818]

Tony, are you the one with a muffler tip centered at the top rear through a nice mesh probably designed by Shane?

If yes do you have a pic? I searched through but couldn't find one. I absolutely need such a mesh and I have to check with Shane if he can do another one, I'm pretty sure I already asked but damn that too I cannot find, so I'm confused...

[Mechie3]

I can't find the pic of the actual one, but there is this:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?17631-Venting-for-Rear-of-Body-Any-interest-in-this

The problem is that FFRSpec's exhaust, like mine, sits ~2" too low to be centered. The exhaust AJW put on their car is centered, but I haven't seen others that are. That's why we're talking about bending it or cutting and rewelding.

[Frank818]

Yeah I contacted Shane and it's all sorted out, it was him. :)
However I can't understand why I couldn't find the thread you mention. I checked all the threads I was subscribed to. Oh well, I guess I went too fast again.

[FFRSpec72]

As an experiment with Shane here is the one for the AJ Performance exhaust (off centered), not sure that I will use it or if I will center the exhaust and get Shane to cut another one since ha has the template now

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[C.Plavan]

That doesn't look too bad. I just love how AJW just shrugged their shoulders of their problem.

[FFRSpec72]

Had a few hours to do some of the 10 min jobs that take hours, so I fit the windshield mount as there was cutting to the the roll cage of the R (or whatever its called) and the fuel cell fill neck.

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[Bob_n_Cincy]

Had a few hours to do some of the 10 min jobs that take hours, so I fit the windshield mount as there was cutting to the the roll cage of the R (or whatever its called) and the fuel cell fill neck.

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Looking good Tony,
Are you going to make an attempt to gokart before you finish the car?
Why the onboard battery charger?
Bob

[Hindsight]

Hey Tony, any chance you could do me a huge favor and tell me how much distance there is between the front of that cowl and the rear of that upper cross bar? Yellow line below:

http://i.imgur.com/D6lRnYGh.png (http://imgur.com/D6lRnYG)

[NBinSD]

I've got about 4 3/4".... sorry for the poor pic, my cell phone camera is shot.

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[Hindsight]

Perfect thank you so much!!

[C.Plavan]

Mine was 5 1/2" on the dot. Looks like we have wiggle room either way.

[C.Plavan]

Looking good Tony,
Are you going to make an attempt to gokart before you finish the car?
Why the onboard battery charger?
Bob

He has wipers switches and turn signals too......... :)

[Hindsight]

Thx Chad, good to know.

[FFRSpec72]

Mine is almost 5.5 inches, more like 5-3/8

I have the onboard charger as I always forget to charge and since this is a little awkward to get to I thought I would eat the extra 10oz this thing weighs and mount it and have the plug stick out the front of the car, like a block heater. It also goes nicely with the wipers, lights, ac, electric seats, etc.

[FFRSpec72]

It's been a while since I have had some time to woirk on 818. I gave up overthinking this an decided to go with what I had for exhaust (AJW Exhaust) so installed the exhaust, rear exhaust louvers (from VRaptor), rear lights, mounted the rear back panel to frame

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[Scargo]

I think it looks really good! Will it be painted or how will it fit into a color scheme for the car?

[FFRSpec72]

I think it looks really good! Will it be painted or how will it fit into a color scheme for the car?

Not sure yet, the car will be the opposite colors of my challenge car, so body will be guardsman blue and the hood and trunk will be wimbledon white, so will have to see if it will look better blue to match the body or white to stand out. I may even polish it, will have to consult the painter.

[FFRSpec72]

Spent some more time today, I refitted most of the body, more fine tuning as it goes to painter 1st week of March. I fitted the rear deck lids and decided just to use the hood pins no hinges for now. I may switch to mini latches but that should be no real big deal to switch. I'm using the VRaptor rear deck mounts, fully adjustable as they support the body and also the hood pins. I have more fitting to do but so far i'm happy with the gaps with the rear panels/lids, the height of the various panels still has a long way to go before they are acceptable.

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[FFRSpec72]

Spent some more time today, way too much time as I was working on the F$%^%$ headlights, I sure hope they improved these when they redesigned the frontend. We ll the fenders and front are now aligned and fully secured. I have to work on the hood gaps but that is minor. I'm satisfied with the headlights, they solid and minimal gaps. The headlights and turn signals all work now. I bonded studs to the body to hold the headlights, rear of door and where the fender meets the body.

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[Hindsight]

Headlight fit looks great. Hope mine turn out as nice.

[Scargo]

Spent some more time today, way too much time as I was working on the F$%^%$ headlights, I sure hope they improved these when they redesigned the frontend... I bonded studs to the body to hold the headlights, rear of door and where the fender meets the body.
Even though I have an "R", I think the headlight area is an abomination. Flimsy stuff and not well executed. Has to be fixed by us.

[FFRSpec72]

Even though I have an "R", I think the headlight area is an abomination. Flimsy stuff and not well executed. Has to be fixed by us.

Totally agree, as getting an acceptable solid mount with proper gaps and fit took me almost 2 days of grinding, mounting, etc. what total F up on the headlights. Then I read the fine print in the manual where I have to supply the high beam bulbs, another F up.

[RetroRacing]

Ditto....2 days of cutting, grinding, now we have to re-inforce the whole thing.

You going to be ready for the season??

[FFRSpec72]

Ditto....2 days of cutting, grinding, now we have to re-inforce the whole thing.

You going to be ready for the season??

I should be ready by end of April, I may not make the opener in Portland but will be at Pacific Raceways, how about you all ?

[RetroRacing]

Trying for testing prior to the Ridge endure, then do the endure. Running the RX3 in the same race so we will save some towing costs.
Need to get it wired for start, wing and wire....wing and wire and some plumbing and the shift linkage and some body work and some.....

[FFRSpec72]

Trying for testing prior to the Ridge endure, then do the endure. Running the RX3 in the same race so we will save some towing costs.
Need to get it wired for start, wing and wire....wing and wire and some plumbing and the shift linkage and some body work and some.....

It's the ... "and some" that is killing me.

[FFRSpec72]

The center drive 818R is heading to Pacific Raceways for testing on Saturday, should be fun, should also be able to get oil/water/engine temp info. This one is running the Element Tuning dry sump.

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[RetroRacing]

Sweet!

[Rotorcraft]

awesome

who does it belong to??

[FFRSpec72]

awesome

who does it belong to??

Co-workers, they run endurance races in Miata now

[FFRSpec72]

I went out to the track this morning with the center dive 818 folks, the track was wet, cold and icy (28 degrees this morning). Car fabrication was great, really nice ideas and custom parts. No issues with engine or oil temps, running a detuned JDM EJ207v8 engine (dyno @ 220/220) as the new ST3 class rules call for 10:1, car weighs in at 1850 dry, so 2100 wet (driver but no fuel).

They had the redneck wind tunnel set up, will have to see the video after.


So seems there are 818 R out there that don't have all the drama and troubles/issues. Car will need a muffler and additional aero work but this was it's first shake down to make sure nothing fell off or broke.

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[FFRSpec72]

Here is a picture of the rear exhaust louvers installed (secured to body)

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[Frank818]

That looks great, even though it's a little lower than center. Looks smaller than 3", but I'm sure it's 3.

[Scargo]

The center-drive car looks good. Almost kicking myself for not doing it. Seriously thought about it.
The detuned JDM EJ207v8 engine @ 220/220 is barely breaking a sweat. Could easily be NA. I don't think it compares to ST2 cars though I do agree that they should be fairly drama-free. It's when you get up around 360 that you have to be careful and not use stock pistons... around 270-280 WHP should be easy.

[FFRSpec72]

That looks great, even though it's a little lower than center. Looks smaller than 3", but I'm sure it's 3.

Yea the off center was AJW Performance, I did not want to have to go through the hassle of changing.

[FFRSpec72]

Here is the first start since getting the engine (JDM EJ207v7) so on the home stretch now ... Engine pegged the oil pressure gauge at over 100 PSI


http://vid521.photobucket.com/albums/w337/anthonynadalin/818R/Engine/WP_20160110_12_48_12_Pro.mp4

[Kurk818]

Nice job Tony. :) Glad to see you in the home stretch

[Sgt.Gator]

Congrats on the start up. Can't wait to see you at the track this year. And I hope to get a close look at the center-drive 818 sometime too!

[129st]

I went out to the track this morning with the center dive 818 folks, the track was wet, cold and icy (28 degrees this morning). Car fabrication was great, really nice ideas and custom parts. No issues with engine or oil temps, running a detuned JDM EJ207v8 engine (dyno @ 220/220) as the new ST3 class rules call for 10:1, car weighs in at 1850 dry, so 2100 wet (driver but no fuel).

They had the redneck wind tunnel set up, will have to see the video after.


So seems there are 818 R out there that don't have all the drama and troubles/issues. Car will need a muffler and additional aero work but this was it's first shake down to make sure nothing fell off or broke.

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I've been intrigued by a center drive set up for some time. Do you know what 90 degree steering rack they used? A picture of the front end/rack would really be great.

[FFRSpec72]

I've been intrigued by a center drive set up for some time. Do you know what 90 degree steering rack they used? A picture of the front end/rack would really be great.

The rack was made local, I believe it was designed from the Ford Spec Racer (FSR) that he also drives, lots of frame modifications were required, excellent craftsmanship.

[FFRSpec72]

I got to spend some time this weekend on the car, here is the progress I made:

Steering wheel install

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I also complete rear deck lid vent and installed the mini latches

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I installed the hood large vents also

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I order some trim for the headlights and finished that up (even though its a race car I did not want the head lights rubbing on the fiberglass fender)

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[FFRSpec72]

I also finished the rear bottom louver, thanks to VRaptor and Shane's excellent design work

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[Hindsight]

Looking great! Can't wait to see some track videos come spring.

[Mechie3]

The off center exhaust isn't really noticeable anymore with the vent around it. Instead of seeing that it's off center, your eyes are drawn to it being on center with the pattern. I might go back to using mine now.

[Rotorcraft]

Nice work. Can't wait to see that machine in person!

[Mitch Wright]

Very Nice.

[Steve Powell]

Looking good Tony. Dude...........That thing is going to be too nice to race. Those first rock chips are going to be painful.

[AZPete]

Nice work! I really like the louvers and the vents in the rear, but, like Steve said, it's too nice to race! Maybe add some chips in the paint and some duct tape. :)

[Frank818]

Really nice all that.

What OD size the mini's? 1.25 or 1.5"?

[FFRSpec72]

Really nice all that.

What OD size the mini's? 1.25 or 1.5"?

I went with the 1.5" and also the 5/16 stud/pin and also added the return springs

[Frank818]

The springs, these?

http://www.quik-latch.com/mini-latch-assist-spring.html

They give a better feel or they help latch the panels? I mean what advantage of using them? I'm still debating.

[FFRSpec72]

The springs, these?

http://www.quik-latch.com/mini-latch-assist-spring.html


They give a better feel or they help latch the panels? I mean what advantage of using them? I'm still debating.

I got the heavy duty ones, as they raise/pop the panel up for easier removal well worth the cost if you want quicker removal

[Frank818]

Cool! I'll order a couple 20lbs, tnx for the input!

[RetroRacing]

We went with the minis, don't do it for quick removal, we are replacing them with sprung (or I might just insert a spring).

[FFRSpec72]

Had a day to spend over the weekend, so I installed the Crawford Air-oil-separator and the Killer-B Oil Control Valve, thanks to Mitch it's all mounted and plumbed. I had to het it high enough so that it would drain back to crankcase, so had to go in one of one the humps. Only thing left to plumb is the AOS to the OCV as I did not have a 12AN nipple fitting.

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[Mitch Wright]

Looks like you are just about good to go.

[FFRSpec72]

I finished up the AOS and the OCV as I was waiting for the M22 fitting to AN10 line for the OCV

50334

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I finished up the AOS and the OCV as I was waiting for the M22 fitting to AN10 line for the OCV

50334

5 acronyms in one sentence, you get the Mr. Mom award.

https://youtu.be/iX3kxAA2L4Q

[Mitch Wright]

Tony,

I like where you mounted your OCV, when I have nothing else to do I might have to move mine.

LOL good catch Bob.

[FFRSpec72]

Splitter mount and radiator tunnel seal

So I wanted to run without fans but needed to make I had a way to force air through the radiator and not let the are travel through various places in the front of the car causing other undesirable aero effects. I also wanted to make sure that the splitter was mounted well (as I don't like the struts mounted outside)

Here are the aluminum pieces that are needed

http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w337/anthonynadalin/818R/Splitter/WP_20160210_18_28_23_Pro%201.jpg

So added a black plate to block off air flow. The top piece is contoured to fit the hood to seal off air. I'm using Zero Decibel's large hood louvers and the block off plate comes just behind the louvers, so that worked out very nicely.

50726

Next needed to add bottom plate to cover up the steering rack area and force air to back plate, up and out the hood lovers

50728

Next needed to add side plate. FFR supplied some side plates but not intended to seal, so I cut the FFR supplied side panels

50729

Added new side panels with supports for the splitter

50730 50731

add bottom panel before the radiator to force air from splitter bottom up to radiator

50732

Mount splitter and seal off area around where splitter meets the body. Splitter is out 2" from front bumper.

50733 50734

Put the body back together

50735 50736

Many thanks to Leo (center drive 818) for cutting aluminum

[Mitch Wright]

Thanks for the photo's Tony, parallel minds.

[Sgt.Gator]

I love both these builds!

I think you should bring it to ORP for the April 2nd ACCO track day, $140. Cheapest track a day in North America.
http://www.motorsportreg.com/events/acco-track-day-a2-oregon-raceway-park-autocross-club-of-central-044853#.Vqr9GK_SlPY

I'm also a member of the ORP Track Club if you want a nearly private track session. Lots of days coming up for those too.

[FFRSpec72]

Since I will not be using a hinge on the rear hump lid, I need a way to add a mini latch to keep it held down, so here is the mount for the mini latch stud. I will also be cutting the hump lid side tabs off and mounting them to the body and thus don't have to mess around trying to get the lid on and off.

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[Hindsight]

Neat idea... I wouldn't have thought of that.

[RetroRacing]

Exactly what we did, we just went a step further by making the hump piece and the trunk lid one piece

[Hindsight]

That's a good idea too.... would be really cool to have both of those one piece and hinged at the back. Sounds like a new product idea for Mike or Mechie!

[FFRSpec72]

Exactly what we did, we just went a step further by making the hump piece and the trunk lid one piece

I looked that this since taking just the rear deck off does not give me much access, I'm always taking off both lids so I may also bond the rear deck lid and the hump lids together now that hump lid is easy to get on/off only concern that I have is I have the wing mount coming out of the rear deck lid, whereas you have the wing mount aft of the rear deck lid

[Mitch Wright]

Tony, when I get back in town I will send you a photo of what did for the rear deck.

[FFRSpec72]

I mounted the under the battery aluminum, I'm still not certain what I will do with the gap that exists under the steering rack to the front splitter

I got the rear overflow tank mounted and plumbed

50929

And now have the rear diffuser mounted

50930

[FFRSpec72]

Finally got the steering bushing and bracket since the Zero Decibel Steering Rack spacer did work with the older ('02) bushing (old bushing was flat on bottom). Still looks a little off (cocked) bit did not have time to measure, maybe that is how the rack is supposed to look ?

51003 51004

[RetroRacing]

That's why we made our own out of a muffler clamp, just couldn't get it straight across.

[FFRSpec72]

After more playing with the steering rack mount, I went back to the FFR supplied mount so I could finish up some work on the radiator/splitter aluminum.

So added the finishing pieces to seal off the bottom and the sides of the radiator


5113951140 51141

[Mitch Wright]

Looks Great Tony,
I just finished my firewall around the fuel cell, next up for me is the radiator ducting. Don't be surprised if what I am doing looks like yours.

[RetroRacing]

Just finished the flat bottom on the car to the rear...very happy with the results, was able to extend the diffuser by 10"! May not use the supplied diffuser now, need to thing about it. Will post pics this week.

[FFRSpec72]

Just finished the flat bottom on the car to the rear...very happy with the results, was able to extend the diffuser by 10"! May not use the supplied diffuser now, need to thing about it. Will post pics this week.

I'm only out about 4" if I go out further I would have to change the up rake on the diffuser to be effective, I imagine with you wing back further that you need the diffuser not to cause air turbulence on your wing mounts

[RetroRacing]

:cool:

[FFRSpec72]

I installed the strakes on the rear diffuser, I installed the new mount for the passenger side steering rack (all looks perfect now). I did an nut/bolt torque check an all the front and rear suspension.

I ordered tires so I can do the alignment I will be running Hoosier R7 P225/40ZR17 81W LL on front and P245/35ZR18 80W LL onrear.

[Mechie3]

I installed the new mount for the passenger side steering rack (all looks perfect now).


Sweet! Glad it worked.

[FFRSpec72]

A 10 minute job that took most of the day, mounting the R windscreen, had to redo the windscreen mount and move it closer to the cockpit, which also involved more cutting and making openings for odd items like the master cyl (brake and clutch), etc. This ranks right up there with the headlights

Had to spend Sunday on taxes so no work on 818 or Challenge car

51505 51506

[FFRSpec72]

WOW, I as just looking back and it was 2 years ago I received my 818R and I'm now just getting ready to head out on the track in a few months, it has taken me a year longer that I thought.

[Mitch Wright]

I am right there with you Tony, I am at 18 months and it is looking to be late April (optimistic) early May to be "Track Ready". I figured a year and 1/2 and I think I could have done it in that time frame but I added things to the build ($$) and didn't want to spend the money from the joint accounts that could raise eyebrows. So building up my fun money reserves slowed down my parts or tool purchases.
For me the end results are worth the wait, I have the car I really wanted to build.

[Hindsight]

I'm in the same club. 18 months and counting. I'm very close though I still have to mount the body and do the interior, then deal with all the registration stuff.

I agree 100% that the time has been worth it. I think the only negative aspect to any of it (other than money spending of course hahaha) is that I have a tendency to become a little guarded about my "car time"....... I'll just leave it at that :o

[RetroRacing]

We should start a club., same basic time line here. Unless an act of God comes forth, we will not make testing this month. Really disappointed in that. Depends on the tuner and wiring the car.

[metros]

I'm in the same boat. This week was 2 years since I picked up my 818. I was still working on donor part rejuvenation when I first got the 818.

I'm slowly starting to mount the body. Have most the interior done. Hoping to be done for the warm weather this summer.

My household has had many conversation about the car time schedule.

[Loring]

I feel fortunate that my wife wants to help. Puts some ease on the time and money factors.

[Harley818]

I was pushing really hard to get it ready for last summer.... then I realized I was taking shortcuts I didn't want to take. I stopped for a while and now I'm re-doing stuff right, and still having fun doing it.
Hoping for this summer now..... and it will be done right.

[Frank818]

Looks like we are all in the same club. Let's take a beer, all on my account!

[FFRSpec72]

I spent the weekend mounting my 71" APR GT250 wing. This took longer than expected, as I forgot when we were designing the wing mount I only tack welded it, so I had to take off the stand and weld it, then ran out or flux wire, so a trip to the store, etc.

51805

Since I will have a removable rear deck, I had to cut slots in the deck lid for the wing mounts and that would weaken and make the deck lid flimsy so had to strengthen the lid with some structured backing plates

51806

Once all that was done then on to mount the wing

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[longislandwrx]

Now that its on, do you think visually, and functionally 71" is the right width for the car?

[RetroRacing]

Very nice!!

[FFRSpec72]

Now that its on, do you think visually, and functionally 71" is the right width for the car?

So from wheel well to wheel well my car is 71" across (actually its like 70.xx), so I wanted a wing that covered that space since the car will be disturbing air in that 71" space and I wanted the down force to cover the rear wheels. It's a big wing but it looks spot on when you look at the car from the front and rear. It will take some playing with to get the angles right but I have lots of adjustments to play with but I'm happy with the way it turned out.

[Frank818]

Another thing that took longer than expected...

Really nice result! And those bends on the one and only exhaust pipe are great, didn't realize that before.

Do you know how much your entire spoiler support weighs?

And finally, a pic of the rear diffuser that speaks to me!! I am finally able to visualize how this thing looks from inside. I can mock-up stuff in my head now. Tnx a lot, man!

[FFRSpec72]

Do you know how much your entire spoiler support weighs?

The wing support weighs 17lbs and the transmission protection (back plate with 818 on it) weighs 7 lbs, so 24lbs for what I installed. I'm sure you could get it down if you built it out of aluminum but I have yet to master welding aluminum and steel is still questionable.

I have not put on the under the engine pan yet (I have test fitted it) as the dolly is in the way, I will have the car on tires this week so will be able to finish up the under side.

[Mitch Wright]

Tony,

Nice work and I am jealous, we kicked off our season a few weeks ago getting in only 5 hours on my car in the last few weeks.

[FFRSpec72]

Tony,

Nice work and I am jealous, we kicked off our season a few weeks ago getting in only 5 hours on my car in the last few weeks.

I know the feeling, but you have the advantage of track time !!!

[Mitch Wright]

OK that is true but I have to have the car done to get that advantage LOL.

[longislandwrx]

So from wheel well to wheel well my car is 71" across (actually its like 70.xx), so I wanted a wing that covered that space since the car will be disturbing air in that 71" space and I wanted the down force to cover the rear wheels. It's a big wing but it looks spot on when you look at the car from the front and rear. It will take some playing with to get the angles right but I have lots of adjustments to play with but I'm happy with the way it turned out.

awesome, thanks for the info!

[FFRSpec72]

Been doing some odds and ends and these are taking longer than I want (and Easter slowed progress)

So I added tabs to the frame to support to support the rear hump deck wings that I cut off and mounted to body so rear deck is easy to take off.

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I aligned the hood and got it close to a final fit and mounted the hood pins

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I installed the front splash guard to keep tire rubber to a minimum
52157

Installed tabs (3 in total) to support the dash (front lip)

52158

Received/mounted my tires to I can put the car on the ground and check all the clearances and get the initial alignment done

52159

[Hindsight]

Your tires look good and level, they should work well.

That dash tab pic gave me vertigo! For some reason I never considered welding dash tabs on! Great idea... I may use that one.

All else looks good. Can't wait to see some track videos, especially @ PIR. Had my first HPDE day there back in 1998 in an 83 rabbit with a supercharger. I think I still have some video of it on.... VHS!

[Mitch Wright]

Nice, looking forward to a track report.
The race is on to see who will get on track first, I think you have a bit of an edge on me. Technically I guess I beat you to the track, I got in 30 miles as a go kart.

[RetroRacing]

We were supposed to be on track mid april, not going to happen. Now, first of may in Portland if I can get the bad boy wired and tuned in time!

[FFRSpec72]

We were supposed to be on track mid april, not going to happen. Now, first of may in Portland if I can get the bad boy wired and tuned in time!

I will be at race #2 on May 14/15 at Pacific, most likely running ITE (group 4) until I get all the bugs out and comfortable and then switch to SPM (group 1) as that is a busy group and don't want to get in anyone's way as I sort out car

[shoeish]

Can you post more pictures of your completed rear diffuser/rear bumper?

[FFRSpec72]

Can you post more pictures of your completed rear diffuser/rear bumper?

What angles/shots do you want ?

[FFRSpec72]

I had the chance to finish the under the steering rack aluminum, so now I have a flat under carriage.

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I also started to install the hump block off aluminum, I will be attaching the actual hump aluminum to the lid but the block off plate is now attached to frame

52209

[FFRSpec72]

I hit a milestone yesterday as the car came off the dolly that it has been on for 2 years and now is on the ground to finish the odds and ends. The first thing that I notice is that the tires are hitting the front fiberglass where the fender meets the bumper on the inside of the body, so lost of little things to do now


52211 52212 52213 52214

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Tony,
Your car is looking great.
Now get that thing out on the road/track and work out the bugs.
Bob

[Mitch Wright]

Car look great Tony.

What did tire sizes did you end up with?

I am looking at BFG R1S's, trying to find some take offs to check fit. BFG offers 235/40X17 and 265/35X18, the actual size is just a few mm wider then the Hoosier 225 and 255.
I remember Bob is running a bit larger tires.

[FFRSpec72]

Car look great Tony.

What did tire sizes did you end up with?

I am looking at BFG R1S's, trying to find some take offs to check fit. BFG offers 235/40X17 and 265/35X18, the actual size is just a few mm wider then the Hoosier 225 and 255.
I remember Bob is running a bit larger tires.


Front R7 225/40/17
Rear R7 255/35/18

[Mechie3]

Is it hitting the small flange where you put two bolts in? I had to trim those too. If that's all that you're hitting then I'll probably get the same size tires you have.

[FFRSpec72]

Is it hitting the small flange where you put two bolts in? I had to trim those too. If that's all that you're hitting then I'll probably get the same size tires you have.

Yes that is where it is hitting, so I have to trim some off that flange area.

[Sgt.Gator]

Tony will you have the 818 at Pacific next weekend? I'll be there for the T&T Friday and racing Sat-Sun. I'm hoping to see your ride!

[Scargo]

Dang. I am flying out of Seattle on Friday. Would have loved to see some cars on the track.

[Rotorcraft]

Tony will you have the 818 at Pacific next weekend? I'll be there for the T&T Friday and racing Sat-Sun. I'm hoping to see your ride!


Yeah are you??

[FFRSpec72]

I'm on travel so I will not be at Pacific, I'm also going to be at Spokane for the Festival of Speed so will miss the 3rd ICSSC race at PIR, but I will be back at Spokane for the June ICSSC 17/18/19 race.

[FFRSpec72]

So off travel for a few weeks, so had a little time to spend on the car, I started and almost finished the alignment, I hit a few odd things, as the left (driver) rear trailing arm hits the tire (tire is rubbing) but the right (passenger) side is fine, not sure what is up there. I can only get a negative 1.8 camber on the front left side but the front right side I can get 2.5. The rear I have set to negative 2.5 on both sides. Thanks to Leo for the help and his jig, as it bolts on the frame and very quickly I can get an alignment done (that is after a few hours of positioning the jig and drilling the mounting holes, etc.

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[Frank818]

the right rear trailing arm hits the tire (tire is rubbing) but the left side is fine, not sure what is up there.

Awesome! I have the same issue! Posted this week on my build thread, fresh as new. I do not know yet how to give it proper clearance (5mm for inspection in my case) without having the tire too much outside the fender or not enough thread on the camber link.


I can only get a negative 1.8 camber on the front right side but the front left side I can get 2.5.

Relatively the same for me, there is one side I can get quite more camber than the other.

[FFRSpec72]

Alignment is done

So had time to work on the side vents that will direct the air to the intercooler vis some brake duct hose and a box around the IC, so will see how this all works soon but should supply some additional air to the IC.

54489

[FFRSpec72]

Running down the punch list

Installed the jack points on the car, got tired of finding the right place to jack up the car

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Also installed the center mirror, had to get this high to see properly

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Installed the Canards

54931

[Hindsight]

Great idea on the jack points!

[RetroRacing]

the jack point work great, no need to ever jack up the front, it all lifts together. Nice job!

[Mitch Wright]

Looking good Tony

[Sgt.Gator]

Looks like your ready for Spokane! :D

[FFRSpec72]

Looks like your ready for Spokane! :D

Nope, still more on the punch list, also not a nice track to break a low to the ground car in on ....

[RetroRacing]

Good point, I don't feel so bad now.....:cool:

[FFRSpec72]

I'm concerned about the ride height and the clearance between the front fender and tire, running 225/40/17 and 400lbs springs and I don't have much clearance, I can see some potential problems here. I have about 1/4" clearance.

55058

[RetroRacing]

What ride height?

[FFRSpec72]

What ride height?

3.25 in front and 3.75 in rear

[RetroRacing]

Now you have me checking ours......

[FFRSpec72]

Ultimate accomplishment, I installed the gas cap last night !

[Pearldrummer7]

Ultimate accomplishment, I installed the gas cap last night !

Sweet! Was it hard? /s

I like the jack point. I'm installing canards tonight; any advice? Just rivets or a glue as well?

[FFRSpec72]

Sweet! Was it hard? /s

I like the jack point. I'm installing canards tonight; any advice? Just rivets or a glue as well?

I used nut plates (1/4-28) and used 3 of them per canard, feels pretty sturdy, except now I keep running into them working on the car.;

[FFRSpec72]

One more item off the checklist, I installed my NRG Shift knob

55117

[FFRSpec72]

Had the car out for a test, the limited clearance between tire and fender is NOT going to work, thought I was going to take the front end off when I hit some big bumps. Not sure what I will do now as I need more CLEARANCE !!!!


55160

[Kurk818]

Looks awesome Tony! Congrats. How did it drive other than the rubbing?

Check for rubber transfer on the fiberglass. A lot of my rubbing issues were the tabs at the bumper/fender connection.

[RetroRacing]

Looks Great!! let me know your final ride height once you set it.

[FFRSpec72]

Looks awesome Tony! Congrats. How did it drive other than the rubbing?

Check for rubber transfer on the fiberglass. A lot of my rubbing issues were the tabs at the bumper/fender connection.

The top of the fender is almost sitting on tire, so when I turn and hit a bump the fender is about to tear off, there is less than 1/4". I'm not sure what to do I have 400lbs springs now, may go to 500 and raise ride height close to 4" and see if that helps. not sure I can raise the front bumper at all as it looks like it is mounted in the right spots.

[C.Plavan]

The top of the fender is almost sitting on tire, so when I turn and hit a bump the fender is about to tear off, there is less than 1/4". I'm not sure what to do I have 400lbs springs now, may go to 500 and raise ride height close to 4" and see if that helps. not sure I can raise the front bumper at all as it looks like it is mounted in the right spots.

I'm not sure of your offset or tire size, but I had to raise it, maximize camber (-2.5+), and trim the $hit out of the front fenders.

FFR really did a bad job on the original fenders/ front wheel spacing. They have since tried to fix that issue with the newly designed fenders which are wider and also got rid of the tab at the critical rubbing areas.

[FFRSpec72]

I'm not sure of your offset or tire size, but I had to raise it, maximize camber (-2.5+), and trim the $hit out of the front fenders.

FFR really did a bad job on the original fenders/ front wheel spacing. They have since tried to fix that issue with the newly designed fenders which are wider and also got rid of the tab at the critical rubbing areas.

Running the FFR rims - 17 x 7.5 with 40mm offset and 225-40-17 tires. I thought about taking the lip off the fender but had not seen anyone had to do that yet, as that may be a last resort option

[C.Plavan]

Running the FFR rims - 17 x 7.5 with 40mm offset and 225-40-17 tires. I thought about taking the lip off the fender but had not seen anyone had to do that yet, as that may be a last resort option

I think my offset was around 35 or 33 but 17x8". I just trimmed the mounting tab almost all off. I had to move the bolts from the bumper/fender way forward. Just raise it up and trim- you should be fine.

I had the same tire size in front (Hoosiers). Once I did the above, only brand new tires would rub on the fender lip the first few laps- then self clearance.

[FFRSpec72]

I think my offset was around 35 or 33 but 17x8". I just trimmed the mounting tab almost all off. I had to move the bolts from the bumper/fender way forward. Just raise it up and trim- you should be fine.

I had the same tire size in front (Hoosiers). Once I did the above, only brand new tires would rub on the fender lip the first few laps- then self clearance.

Are you talking about raising the fender off the tabs here in this picture ?

55165

[FFRSpec72]

I resolved the clearance issue but I don['t like the solution I used until I dig in a little more, I used the S ride height shock tower holes, the ride height is the same 3.5" front and 3.7r in rear. I will have to ask Jim if this will cause any issues.

[C.Plavan]

Are you talking about raising the fender off the tabs here in this picture ?

55165

I was just talking about raising the car with the coilovers- Otherwise it defeats the purpose of the lower ride height of the R. I kept it at R height, and just raised it enough to stop the rubbing.

[FFRSpec72]

Just ordered some Carbotech XP8 and XP10 pads for the Wilwood Dynopro Calipers, these should do the job.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I resolved the clearance issue but I don['t like the solution I used until I dig in a little more, I used the S ride height shock tower holes, the ride height is the same 3.5" front and 3.7r in rear. I will have to ask Jim if this will cause any issues.

Tony,
I'm confused.
If you moved the shocks to the S holes and then adjusted the coil-overs to the same ride height. What did you gain?
Bob

[FFRSpec72]

Tony,
I'm confused.
If you moved the shocks to the S holes and then adjusted the coil-overs to the same ride height. What did you gain?
Bob

I gained some tire to fender clearance, not sure why, but I'm at same ride height with about a 1/2 more clearance between tire and fender lip

[Frank818]

Just ordered some Carbotech XP8 and XP10 pads for the Wilwood Dynopro Calipers, these should do the job.

Pads are strictly race intended?

[FFRSpec72]

Pads are strictly race intended?

Yes, they do make street pads but the XP series is for racing, I'm very happy with them on my Challenge car.

[FFRSpec72]

Getting closer to completion , as with help of Frank818 and Mechie3 I was able to set my caster to +6 and camber is still a little low @ -1.8 so that is next. I had the car up to 90mph this weekend and all was stable, no tire rubbing issues. I'm still getting the air out of the cooling system (as I had a few leaks that I needed to fix). The car seems well planted.

I need to install the rear fender well splash guards as I have a ton of crap that was thrown around. Also need to install the under the engine aluminum.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Getting closer to completion , as with help of Frank818 and Mechie3 I was able to set my caster to +6 and camber is still a little low @ -1.8 so that is next. I had the car up to 90mph this weekend and all was stable, no tire rubbing issues. I'm still getting the air out of the cooling system (as I had a few leaks that I needed to fix). The car seems well planted.
I need to install the rear fender well splash guards as I have a ton of crap that was thrown around. Also need to install the under the engine aluminum.

Hey Tony,
That +6 caster is going to give you a workout. I know Jim and John George are possibly looking at power steering.
The -1.8 camber is a good starting point. I'm running -1.0F and -1.5R with a camber gain of 1* per inch of bump. It's working great with our Toyo R888.
I've been running this season without the splash panels and no aero. No issues.
Bob

[FFRSpec72]

Hey Tony,
That +6 caster is going to give you a workout. I know Jim and John George are possibly looking at power steering.
The -1.8 camber is a good starting point. I'm running -1.0F and -1.5R with a camber gain of 1* per inch of bump. It's working great with our Toyo R888.
I've been running this season without the splash panels and no aero. No issues.
Bob

I run +9 caster on my challenge car so I know the issues, so that is why I only went to +6 with manual steering, I may have to back that down a little but I wanted to start high and see how much I can take. I'm running -2.5 camber in rear, would like to get the front to that point also but it's going to take some additional mods to do that.

[FFRSpec72]

I also added my wide band 02 Sensor this weekend getting ready for a tune as I need to make sure I'm not running lean since this is a JDM engine tuned for more octane than the US market has.

[Frank818]

Nice to hear how well the spacers worked, I knew this was a cheap and easy fix to get decent camber-caster. They are more oriented towards caster than camber. They will give some camber but if you can go past 2.0 I'd be ****ing surprised. Caster at +6 is at the high end of what I could get with spacers. Black bushing pins not flipped.

Have you considered cutting the A-arms' studs to get more camber?

[FFRSpec72]

Nice to hear how well the spacers worked, I knew this was a cheap and easy fix to get decent camber-caster. They are more oriented towards caster than camber. They will give some camber but if you can go past 2.0 I'd be ****ing surprised. Caster at +6 is at the high end of what I could get with spacers. Black bushing pins not flipped.

Have you considered cutting the A-arms' studs to get more camber?

Frank thanks much for the help on the 10mm spacers for the LCA as it did give me enough caster and about .8 more of camber, I have been talking to Jim @ FFR and I think there is an easy fix on the camber also, so I will try that also. So I hope to wind up with -3 camber, +6 caster in the end.

[Mitch Wright]

Tony, You going to flip the rear LCA bushing? Really interested to find out what the gain is. I have been giving some though to doing it to see if I gain more adjustability on the upper arm.

[FFRSpec72]

Tony, You going to flip the rear LCA bushing? Really interested to find out what the gain is. I have been giving some though to doing it to see if I gain more adjustability on the upper arm.

I added 10mm spacer there to get me the caster and a little more camber, looks like the easy way to get more camber is to slot the FFR spindle mounts so you can vary the tilt in on the spindle as right now there are just round bolt holes, make top one oblong so you can push the spindle in towards to ball joint and you will gain more camber

[FFRSpec72]

Finished up the undercarriage as much as I can for now.

55546 55547 55548

[Hindsight]

Does that front splitter hang downward as shown in your pic, or is it just hanging down so you could easily install the sheet metal to the rear?

[FFRSpec72]

Does that front splitter hang downward as shown in your pic, or is it just hanging down so you could easily install the sheet metal to the rear?

There is a piece of aluminum that bridges from front splitter to under battery tray aluminum and that is at an angle so hard to see from the picture. So the front splitter is higher than the undercarriage

[Hindsight]

Ahh ok. I wonder if the resulting ramp from the splitter down to the undercarriage level causes any lift....

[FFRSpec72]

Ahh ok. I wonder if the resulting ramp from the splitter down to the undercarriage level causes any lift....

There is not much difference (picture make it look like a lot) maybe a 1-2 inches difference, I don't expect much lift as with the splitter and canards I expect will negate any potential lift

[Bob_n_Cincy]

55546

Tony, I don't understand why the deflector in front of the oil pan. Don't you want to keep the air flowing as fast as possible through the diffuser?

Did you custom make you belly pan? Mine is a different shape. 55549
Bob

[Mechie3]

My guess is that it reduces turbulence due to the oil pans shape and the opening around it for clearance.

[FFRSpec72]

Tony, I don't understand why the deflector in front of the oil pan. Don't you want to keep the air flowing as fast as possible through the diffuser?
Bob

yes, this the deflector, as I don't want to push the air up in the engine area with the hole in the aluminum for tbe oil pan, so this just smooths out the air to either side of the diffuser. My aluminum came from FFR when I got the diffuser

[C.Plavan]

Tony, I don't understand why the deflector in front of the oil pan. Don't you want to keep the air flowing as fast as possible through the diffuser?

Did you custom make you belly pan? Mine is a different shape. 55549
Bob

Bob they sent you the wrong belly pan aluminum. It's supposed to go all the way back to the diffuser. They gave you the standard belly pan aluminum i'm guessing- for cars without rear diffuser. It took FFR 2 tries to send me the right part. the first one they sent was part of a Challenge car... lol

Those deflectors are going to get eat up really quickly.

[Mechie3]

Maybe I have the wrong part too. I couldn't figure out anywhere it was supposed to actually go. It wouldn't line up with anything.

[C.Plavan]

Old pictures of the correct belly pan-
http://i.imgur.com/HHso3sxl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/ftmf7Zml.jpg

[Frank818]

Tony (and some in Chad's pix above), what are those black fasteners for under carriage parts? Sidewalk bolts?

[C.Plavan]

Tony (and some in Chad's pix above), what are those black fasteners for under carriage parts? Sidewalk bolts?

https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL18633-Countersunk-Washer/dp/B009Q73H8A

[Mitch Wright]

Tony, Have you had your maiden voyage?

[Canadian818]

I didn't get that belly pan either, wonder if FFR will still provide it?

[FFRSpec72]

Tony, Have you had your maiden voyage?

Not yet as I was racing the challenge car with Karen Salvaggio last weekend here in the North West, this weekend it's raining and then I go on a business trips. I'm still doing minor stuff as I have been trying to install the rear wheel well liners and what a pain they are to get installed, I figure they will keep out some of the crap.

How about you ?

[FFRSpec72]

I didn't get that belly pan either, wonder if FFR will still provide it?

Call FFR as they should have it noted that it did not ship with your rear diffuser and they will send you a new one

[Mitch Wright]

Not yet as I was racing the challenge car with Karen Salvaggio last weekend here in the North West, this weekend it's raining and then I go on a business trips. I'm still doing minor stuff as I have been trying to install the rear wheel well liners and what a pain they are to get installed, I figure they will keep out some of the crap.

How about you ?
I am just finishing up the last few details, 3 weeks I will have it on track here (At least that is the plan) for another shake down then off to the dyno the end of the month. The plus side I haven't been in a rush so I can take my time on the details.

[Frank818]

About the belly pan, Courtnie is just sending me another one, most probably the right part this time. Many people didn't get the pan at all, some asked (like me) after, a couple of years after loll, and got the wrong, too small, part. Tnx to Tony for helping me identifying that part with his pix.

[Brett33]

Tony, do you have any more pictures of the brake hose routing to the IC or how you are connecting it to the box around it?

Brett

[FFRSpec72]

Tony, do you have any more pictures of the brake hose routing to the IC or how you are connecting it to the box around it?

Brett

I don't have any yet as I have not completed the IC housing for the duct work, but the routing of the hose will be simple as the ducts point up and the hose will go from there to the sides of the IC

[FFRSpec72]

I had some time to complete the rear wheel well aluminum, what a freaking pain, I did use Mechie3 mounts which helped but still a real pain. I also put the Carbotech XP8 (rear) and XP10 (front) pads on, good thing I did as when changing the rear I noticed that I had not torqued down the rear spindle nut on the axel, that would have been no fun ...

56118 56119 56120 56121

[Hindsight]

I've been dreading that part too. Any tips? Your install looks good and clean.

[FFRSpec72]

I've been dreading that part too. Any tips? Your install looks good and clean.

Get Mechie3 mounts, as these make it easier. I had to enlarge the area next to the shock and the area short lateral link, best to have someone help as you will need 3+ hands to get the aluminum to bend to conform to the curve and rivet this to the tabs.

[Hindsight]

Thanks Tony

[RetroRacing]

Looks great! We wont be doing that....

BTW, splitting compounds on the brake pads? I didn't think you did that on mid engine/high down force cars. Share please.

[Frank818]

I see you had to cut your inner splash guards, I know I will too to clear out the brake's line, but did you cut them to clear out some other parts like the upper link?

[FFRSpec72]

Looks great! We wont be doing that....

BTW, splitting compounds on the brake pads? I didn't think you did that on mid engine/high down force cars. Share please.

I have lots of years running on Carbotech pads, what I find is that a car that is weighted in the heavy in rear needs more aggressive pads in front to avoid the rear from locking up, I would far rather have the front lock than the rear, so I find this split of pad compound to be just about right, so I will see how this works out on the 818. The front and rear pads are the same surface area, the front pads are just thicker by a few millimeters.

[FFRSpec72]

I see you had to cut your inner splash guards, I know I will too to clear out the brake's line, but did you cut them to clear out some other parts like the upper link?

Just cut to clear the shock spring, upper link and brake line, not a total hack but a few inches had to come off.

[matteo92065]

Did you remove the rear spring and cycle the suspension with the tires on to see if it rubs your inner fenders? I'm guessing it will.

[FFRSpec72]

Did you remove the rear spring and cycle the suspension with the tires on to see if it rubs your inner fenders? I'm guessing it will.

yes I ran the arm travel and it may ruub but I'm using 100lb stronger springs so I'm thinking it will not rub with these springs as I don't expect the travel to be as great as the stock springs

[RetroRacing]

I have lots of years running on Carbotech pads, what I find is that a car that is weighted in the heavy in rear needs more aggressive pads in front to avoid the rear from locking up, I would far rather have the front lock than the rear, so I find this split of pad compound to be just about right, so I will see how this works out on the 818. The front and rear pads are the same surface area, the front pads are just thicker by a few millimeters

We do too, we always have run split compounds and master sizes using both Carbotech and hawk, but my understanding was to use same master sizes and same compound for rear biased cars with downforce. I hope I'm not wrong, but Im sure I will know after the first lockup:p

[Bob_n_Cincy]

We do too, we always have run split compounds and master sizes using both Carbotech and hawk, but my understanding was to use same master sizes and same compound for rear biased cars with downforce. I hope I'm not wrong, but Im sure I will know after the first lockup:p

Just to let you know how our brakes are biased.
We have no areo.
All four calipers and pads are identical. Rotors are very close to the same size. Our wilwood pv is in the rear circuit turned down 4 revolutions.
Over a 1000 track miles with no brake issues.
Bob

[FFRSpec72]

Bo
Just to let you know how our brakes are biased.
We have no areo.
All four calipers and pads are identical. Rotors are very close to the same size. Our wilwood pv is in the rear circuit turned down 4 revolutions.
Over a 1000 track miles with no brake issues.
Bob

Bob, thanks for the input as this will help as I setup the car as other experiences always help. I did add a BV on front and rear circuit just in case so if the compound is not balanced I can take most of that out with the BV.

[FFRSpec72]

I'm targeting August 4th at the Ridge for test and tune, not my choice of tracks for test & tune but PIR or PR don't have any days open. I need to figure out how I'm going to tie down the front of the car in the trailer, not sure yet, rear I will use the rims with straps.

[RetroRacing]

Actually, we may make that date at the ridge as well, car is in for tuning, should have it back this week. An hour to put the body back on and we are good to go.
Need to rush my RX7 so that we can break that in as well that weekend, needs some time on track.

[Mitch Wright]

I loop straps through the wheels, works great. https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=race+car+tie+down+straps&view=detailv2&&id=050AE66250EBE2DF478C37C52A571F77E6668BB2&selectedIndex=0&ccid=8yCwUIzI&simid=608019850939140125&thid=OIP.Mf320b0508cc8879e6226c7f2c07cd833o0&ajaxhist=0

[RetroRacing]

THe only problem with that is nothing stops the car from bouncing on the springs and working the shocks without airflow over them, so the get very, very hot on a long tow. We are looking for answers as well, due to our lovely sealed floor and nothing to tie it down to.

[Mitch Wright]

Well to me that is over thinking, and that is the only way we can tie down a GT3 car, Trans Am car, Porsche Cup car or prototype.

[C.Plavan]

Problem solved- this is what I did on the rear of my old R

http://i.imgur.com/fZXBrUXl.jpg

The hole is bigger than the bolt, just snug it down right. I did not have any issues. Simple and easy.

http://www.rennline.com/Rennline-Tie-Downs-set-of-2/productinfo/E04/

[C.Plavan]

Well to me that is over thinking, and that is the only way we can tie down a GT3 car, Trans Am car, Porsche Cup car or prototype.

You have seen their car right? :P :)

[RetroRacing]

COOL! Ill have to see if we could do that. Was thinking, over thinking probably, of installing a bounce limiter from frame to LCA, to compress the frame down onto the arms to limit cycling the shocks during towing. I know this stuff seems trivial, but God is in the details....and ive burned myself on a shock before while removing the tie downs after towing for 8 hours.

[FFRSpec72]

After thrashing the car a little this weekend, I have a oil leak so now I have to figure out where, it has to be the remote oil cooler/filter connections as it does not look like an engine leak. Also had gauge wire issues, all fixed now. Finished hooking up the fire system.

I do have some side to side axle play., not sure if this is supposed to be like that or not ?

[FFRSpec72]

Problem solved- this is what I did on the rear of my old R

The hole is bigger than the bolt, just snug it down right. I did not have any issues. Simple and easy.

http://www.rennline.com/Rennline-Tie-Downs-set-of-2/productinfo/E04/

Yes these are the ones I got

[Frank818]

I do have some side to side axle play., not sure if this is supposed to be like that or not ?

I think yes, cuz the CVs can move back and forth on the axle, probably about 1" overall. Mines do, both CVs, although I didn't try once installed if I can move the axle side to side.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I think yes, cuz the CVs can move back and forth on the axle, probably about 1" overall. Mines do, both CVs, although I didn't try once installed if I can move the axle side to side.
The wheel hub CV should not have play in the axial direction.
Bob

[Frank818]

There is play to allow suspension travel which slightly changes the length of the overall driveshaft (both my CVs have play before installing). But I don't know when installed if by hand you can feel the play, maybe that's what you're referring to?

Tony your play is on the car or shafts removed?

[FFRSpec72]

There is play to allow suspension travel which slightly changes the length of the overall driveshaft (both my CVs have play before installing). But I don't know when installed if by hand you can feel the play, maybe that's what you're referring to?

Tony your play is on the car or shafts removed?

On the car, I imagine that there has to be some play since the suspension move up and down an thus changes length of axles. The axles have a bout 1/2 of travel in/out

[Frank818]

I have no play when on the car, by hand I cannot feel any. If you do, I believe there's a problem.

[FFRSpec72]

I have no play when on the car, by hand I cannot feel any. If you do, I believe there's a problem.

I should have been clearer, I have the female CV joints as I used a 2002 WRX for parts, so the CV joint goes on to the transmission axles, I can move the CV joint back and forth, ohhhhhh crap I forgot to put the roll pins back on and I bet the axle holes and CV joint holes are not aligned .... I really don't want to have to take the rear apart again f$%#$%^

[STiPWRD]

I should have been clearer, I have the female CV joints as I used a 2002 WRX for parts, so the CV joint goes on to the transmission axles, I can move the CV joint back and forth, ohhhhhh crap I forgot to put the roll pins back on and I bet the axle holes and CV joint holes are not aligned .... I really don't want to have to take the rear apart again f$%#$%^
Hopefully the holes are aligned but if not, try unbolting the top bolt that goes through the spindle and lower coilover. You should be able to tilt the spindle outward enough to pull the inner CV joint off the trans. I don't think it'll mess up the alignment either.