RM1Sepex Build Thread

[RM1SepEx]

Billet is always fun!

says the guy who works with cnc equipment for a living... :-)

So I just read that the front sway bar bushing seems to line up pretty well:

I remembered the photo in the manual pg 50, you can see the removed REAR sway bar BUT the bushings sure look like my FRONT mounts! notice the funky shape of the rubber, the three humps appearance of the rubber...

It almost looks like someone put the wrong mounts on the rear bar and the front bar mount dimensions were used when the bracket was designed. The front bar is 3-4 mm bigger so you can't use the front rubber and mounts for the rear bar. Are there ANY customer cars where the rear sway arm bushings actually fit the mounts?

21505

BTW the rear bushings will not fit in the front mounts, the profiles just are not even remotely compatible. Also note that both the front and rear mounts on my 2005 WRX do not bolt to a flat surface...

[Mechie3]

says the guy who works with cnc equipment for a living... :-)

So I just read that the front sway bar bushing seems to line up pretty well:

I remembered the photo in the manual pg 50, you can see the removed REAR sway bar BUT the bushings sure look like my FRONT mounts! notice the funky shape of the rubber, the three humps appearance of the rubber...

It almost looks like someone put the wrong mounts on the rear bar and the front bar mount dimensions were used when the bracket was designed. The front bar is 3-4 mm bigger so you can't use the front rubber and mounts for the rear bar. Are there ANY customer cars where the rear sway arm bushings actually fit the mounts?


CNC work on my part is mostly extracurricular. I think I'd get bored if all I did was run/program CNC's.

I wouldn't be surprised if someone did funky stuff to their donor that FFR ended up picking up. I've seen all sorts of sketchy things done on tuner cars passed off as legit wrenching/tuning. On my current 02 WRX DD, the mechanical oil pressure gauge was leaky. The fix? Put paper towels underneath it inside the dash. I was a bit unamused when I discovered that.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

says the guy who works with cnc equipment for a living... :-)

So I just read that the front sway bar bushing seems to line up pretty well:

I remembered the photo in the manual pg 50, you can see the removed REAR sway bar BUT the bushings sure look like my FRONT mounts! notice the funky shape of the rubber, the three humps appearance of the rubber...

It almost looks like someone put the wrong mounts on the rear bar and the front bar mount dimensions were used when the bracket was designed. The front bar is 3-4 mm bigger so you can't use the front rubber and mounts for the rear bar. Are there ANY customer cars where the rear sway arm bushings actually fit the mounts?

21505

BTW the rear bushings will not fit in the front mounts, the profiles just are not even remotely compatible. Also note that both the front and rear mounts on my 2005 WRX do not bolt to a flat surface...


In my 06 NA wagon donor the rear sway bars are only 13 mm while my front is 20mm.
21520

In 06 the front mount are for 20mm and the rear bar is only 13 or 17mm.
I suspect getting aftermarket bushings is easy.
Does anyone know what size bar FFR is recommending for the front?
Bob G

[RM1SepEx]

does anyone have rear bar bushings with the weird triple hump rubber bushings shown in the manual?

Bob, that is an excellent question, since their donors were both 06 WRX for the development mules, their work would have been done with the 17 mm bars, right?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

does anyone have rear bar bushings with the weird triple hump rubber bushings shown in the manual?

Bob, that is an excellent question, since their donors were both 06 WRX for the development mules, their work would have been done with the 17 mm bars, right?


Dan
take a look at this picture from the manual.
It looks like the used the front bracket with the large bushing with a smaller rear bar.
The bushing will have to be changed to match the bar.
That looks like a 17mm bar but can't be sure.
Also LCA bushings mounted incorrectly.
Bob
21521

[RM1SepEx]

the rear bar bushing sticks up past the bushing clamp, the front one does not. Sorry that is a rear bushing clamp. you can see it more clearly on the lower photo on page 196

the page 95 photo shows the flat bushing clamp from the rear, not the front's 3 hump clamp

And I can't tell you how many times they show the LCA bushings incorrectly, it was double digits... I went through the original and informed them of each and every one BEFORE this printed revision.

[Mechie3]

I didn't see many changes to the printed version aside from added info. My rear bushings were flat with a lip on both ends.

[nkw8181]

Gotta say RM1SepEx I'm loving the build! Keep it up!

Nolan

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks Nolan,

long weekend, volunteered at local BMW open house autox Sat and went to a CMC autocross Sunday. Ran Frankenstein, my Rotax DD2 shifter kart. A but sore today, the kart is rough on my old bones! I did get a rather unpleasant 1/4 circle burn from the exhaust on the back of my hand! Lucky I have MS, such a burn is a nuisance... the pain is no big deal :-)

Started working on the cooling tubing today. Early builders have to cut the aluminum tubes to 42 inches from 50 (GTM spec I assume) and I was hoping to put a new tube "barb" on the cut end... however the tube is too damn small for the eastwood bead roller tooling that I have avail. My milling machine capable friends are either out of state or too busy for me to get too creative right now. A smaller roller may work with the eastwood bead roller but I don't want to wait to get access. I'll have to just use some pop rivets for a tube/clamp stop as they recommended. I was hoping to do a more elegant soln.

Bummed that my aluminum block didn't come in today with my add'l stainless screws from Mcmaster Carr for some riv-nut work on the rear firewall. I'm going to use 10-24 riv-nut and stainless pan head with flange screws to hold the two fire wall pieces together.

No answer yet from F5 on a couple other "issues" that I'm dealing with. Hopefully later builders won't have to deal with this stuff, slows you down a bunch... Dr Appt and helping my mom tomorrow, won't get anything done.

[nkw8181]

I really like the riv-nuts idea on anything you want removable.

Nolan

[RM1SepEx]

got my new course spline axles today.... they don't fit either! UGH

[C.Plavan]

Yikes!

[Mechie3]

Well.....that sucks. My axles were 30 spline axles, all OEM. We'll see what I get when my box shows up.

[RM1SepEx]

My problem is that I installed a Quaife, so I went from the new, male CVs to old style female CVs... I bought new aftermarket axles... Now to find a source that fits either one as I have both types in hand!

[metalmaker12]

Dan I have 02 inners if you want them

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks Chris, I took care of it...

the answer for all of us is actually rather simple. If your donor has ANY replacement axle sold as new replacement, it WILL have an odd spline. You need to buy a reman axle replacement (they are between $60 and $80 if you shop around)

I called my local NAPA (they know me well, I'm first name basis with every counter person!) and to NAPA remanufactured means actual OEM reman. I bought a set of reman 02 axles and it only took a few minutes to assemble my 818 axles using the reman inner CVs and my original 05 rear outers. Tony had a replacement axle on his donor for the RHD example, he bought a reman rear axle from autozone and got the correct Subaru OEM spline, solving his axle issue.

Another point:

I talked to Tony and yes we are correct re sway bars... his wagon donor provided a 13mm rear bar to use in the front, all of the development on the red car (destroyed frame) and the blue/white 818R was done with 06 WRX donor parts and the 17mm bar.

BTW Thanks Wayne! Your hose clamp over the circlip trick works awesome!!!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I talked to Tony and yes we are correct re sway bars... his wagon donor provided a 13mm rear bar to use in the front, all of the development on the red car (destroyed frame) and the blue/white 818R was done with 06 WRX donor parts and the 17mm bar.


Dan, did Tony say what the solution is for wagon donors like me.
Are we supposed to go with the 13 bar.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

His RHD car is using the 13 mm bar. You will have different handling and need to adjust setup. Wayne could def tell you more... I'd bet that they did some no bar driving too.

I'm firmly in the camp that between Factory Five's people, the race car development driver's like Wayne and Koni's team I want to start with my 818 using their recommended setup... and that is using the 17 mm front bar. I'm a decent driver and have years of experience but I'm taking advantage of their hrs of testing. If I was using a wagon donor, I'd source a bigger bar...

[Wayne Presley]

BTW Thanks Wayne! Your hose clamp over the circlip trick works awesome!!!

Your welcome :D

[RM1SepEx]

Worked on the cooling today, the manual is a bit confusing... says don't put the tubes over 5 inch high but shows it higher than 5 inches on page 251 and 252. It also has you mount the lower hose two ways... on page 244 - 245 using one of the five adapters and then on page 247 - 248 using 1/2 of the original lower hose.

I'll button it up tomorrow and I want to go a bit higher than the 5 inches to clear the rear trailing arm mount with the flex tubing. I also think that the lower radiator hose should be fine for the lower engine connection


Wayne, Erik, Chris, how did you do yours?

[metalmaker12]

I will shoot you pics to your other email

[Erik W. Treves]

the critical point is at the front..if you go over 5 in the front on anything it won't fit under the body...the rear doesn't matter...you can look at my build thread to see what I did.

[RM1SepEx]

I went out to my portable garage and noted that in the back there appeared to be plenty of room. To connect to the front it HAS to be damn low to meet the flex coming out of that corner where we have a hole in the aluminum...

Did you guys use the radiator hose or the connector for the lower engine hose connection?

Other than a light coat of oil is there a trick to getting those flex tubes inside the adapters?

[metalmaker12]

I used the FFR connector on the lower engine outlet and soap worked for me for the stainless hardline to rubber connectors, and some heat and soap from oem coolant hose to stainless hardline. You need some Kung fu grip!!!

[RM1SepEx]

No kung fu grip w/my MS... Sadly even my 110+ lb 17 year old cheerleader daughter is stronger than I am.

Add that to the left thumb that I broke autocrossing last month (70+ MPH 3 foot tall slalom cone while driving a kart) and my hands are pretty useless...

Did you use the "dip in boiling water for a while" heat or a more aggressive approach with hot air or gingerly with a torch?

[metalmaker12]

I wish i was there to help you, but I am a working stiff

[RM1SepEx]

I'm pretty capable and have a great batch of friends to help when needed. My issues give me a perfect excuse to buy additional tools!

It's nice to finally have virtually all of the parts now!

BTW I decided to bend the anti rotation tabs over underneath the seat belt reel covers. I wasn't comfortable with the tab moving in and out as you pulled on the belts when the reel was locked. It didn't look very user friendly and would have interfered with my interior upholstery.

I'm wondering what Factory 5 is coming up with for new interior door panels and what the wiper stuff will look like.

[RM1SepEx]

Built some temp makeshift shelves to store body pieces to take my 4 post lift back, my 325IC needs an oil change!

Installed the cooling tubes today. How high do they need to go to clear suspension movement? My car is still on the jack stands tho I can drop it on the wheels soon... I ended up using the lower radiator hose to connect to the bottom water connection. It allows some add'l clearance from the flex to the motor due to the slight angle molded in to the tube vs the short connecter...

Did you guys do anything with the flex tubes where they wind thru the hole by the footwells? I'm thinking some high temp RTV where contact occurs would quiet down any noise and stop any wear over time due to the flex tube's contact with the frame and the aluminum sheeting.

I misplaced my tubing clamps for the coolant tubes... time to wade thru everything again. Not too many parts left from the kit's original 10 boxes!

[wallace18]

Built some temp makeshift shelves to store body pieces to take my 4 post lift back, my 325IC needs an oil change!

Installed the cooling tubes today. How high do they need to go to clear suspension movement? My car is still on the jack stands tho I can drop it on the wheels soon... I ended up using the lower radiator hose to connect to the bottom water connection. It allows some add'l clearance from the flex to the motor due to the slight angle molded in to the tube vs the short connecter...

Did you guys do anything with the flex tubes where they wind thru the hole by the footwells? I'm thinking some high temp RTV where contact occurs would quiet down any noise and stop any wear over time due to the flex tube's contact with the frame and the aluminum sheeting.

I misplaced my tubing clamps for the coolant tubes... time to wade thru everything again. Not too many parts left from the kit's original 10 boxes!

I think silicone or wrapping the tube in some sort of rubber sleeve. I did the rubber sleeve on my 33 where the tube hit the frame.

[RM1SepEx]

like an inner tube?

[wallace18]

like an inner tube?

Maybe a thick one? Not like a bicycle tube. I used some rubber I had from some old insulation.

[RM1SepEx]

Motorcycle tube is thicker... I also have some 1/8 inch thick stuff, natural tan color

[RM1SepEx]

Chris, Can you shoot me a photo of your shifter setup? I feel that the shifter is about 3 inches too high... Not sure about the fore/aft location either

Am I supposed to cut my fuel filler tube shorter? The lower section of my filler tube is waaaay longer than the one in the manual on page 180

21642

[metalmaker12]

My shifter and everything is all disassembled, waiting for tank, I like the shifter high so I am not a good reference.

[RM1SepEx]

did you have issues with the fuel filler tube as shown above?

New fuel filler tube coming... I've been asking about it for WEEKS! UGH

So the sent me the wrong fuel tank AND the wrong filler...

[RM1SepEx]

My shifter and everything is all disassembled, waiting for tank, I like the shifter high so I am not a good reference.

Waiting for tank?

[RM1SepEx]

Busy weekend, trip to Mass with my trailer to pickup a newer car for my Nephew Saturday...

Finished rear firewall bulkhead. I used 10-24 stainless screws with pan/washer heads and riv-nuts

I drilled all the holes 1/8 first and used clecos to ensure alignment, then re-drill for riv-nut and clearance holes in the top panel using the 1/8 holes as pilot holes to ensure the correct position.

I use super glue on each riv-nut before insertion to increase holding power. Another good tip, use a small cap for an oil reservior to dip the drill bit into before each hole. Adds tons of life to the bit, drills better and cools the bit after each hole too! And yes my 3/8 Skil drill is over 30 years old!

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[metros]

Good idea on the oil cap and using pilot holes.

Old tools are always the best tools. I love finding old tools and picking them up cheap, plus they're typically better quality than new equivalents.

[RM1SepEx]

too many people only have battery powered drills now. While I love my 18V DeWalt drill and impact/driver drilling holes is best done either with a plug in or air powered drill. Higher RPM and longer work times... and you use a key to tighten the chuck!

This old Skil was actually my wife's drill before we got married, my original Craftsman died after doing my house... too many holes for pipes and wires using the speedbore, spade type bits. It's not long for this world, many sparks from the old brushes...

[D2W]

Love the old skil:) I have an "old" drill, don't even know the brand. It was my dad's might even have been my Gpa's. Aluminum housing that gets hot if you use it too much. I rarely use it anymore as I have a milwaukie holeshooter for when I need a plug in drill, but I'll never get rid of it.

[Justen]

Maybe a thick one? Not like a bicycle tube. I used some rubber I had from some old insulation.
I will probably use some rescue tape to wrap mine where it contacts the frame, Its self fusing silicone.

[Wayne Presley]

Chris, Can you shoot me a photo of your shifter setup? I feel that the shifter is about 3 inches too high... Not sure about the fore/aft location either

Am I supposed to cut my fuel filler tube shorter? The lower section of my filler tube is waaaay longer than the one in the manual on page 180

21642

I cut the GRM one just behind the rolled lip.

[metalmaker12]

I cut the GRM one just behind the rolled lip.

Ditto, cut my tube in the same place

[RM1SepEx]

Ditto, cut my tube in the same place

so why did they tell me they would send out a new one when I asked if I was supposed to cut it?

And why do we all need to hit such issues w/o communication from Factory Five BEFORE we get there and spin our wheels????

[Racebrewer]

Thanks for the tip on using Super Glue on the Riv-Nuts. It makes lots of sense. Any particular Super Glue or just Generic?

Much appreciated,
John

[Joe Scott]

Dan,

there was two revisions on that filler neck, depending on which filler assembly (metal filler) was two different ways to install it. i think Tony just sent you the newer filler because it was straight to the point on the install, needing no modifications or extra hose. on all the 818's currently going out do not have any filler neck issues

Joe@FFRTECH

[BrandonDrums]

So I bought a fuel filter today at NAPA... BTW 2005 filter = $35... 2002 filter =$20 wild huh!


Sounds like you're already done with this but many WRX guys remove the in-tank fuel filter and convert post '04 wrx and STI models to use the under-hood filter instead. I've done this myself. Basically you just use some 3/8'' (I think) fuel-grade (duh) hose to replace the span between the fuel pump and fuel plate nipple and then you remove what looks like a fuel pressure regulator (which is actually just a weak damper redundant to the stock fuel pressure regulators. It's worthless but you can just put another line on it too) to put the fuel filter there. I've had this setup on my 05 for 4 years now.

After 90k I wanted to replace the in-tank filter and at the time there were no stand-alone replacements. Literally, the local Subaru dealership couldn't even find a part number for the in-tank filter and they told me it was a permanent filter that could only be replaced by installing a new assembly. That wasn't true but that's what got me to decide to covert to the older style.

When I got mine out and cut it open, I found it was made out of basically rolled up cardboard and was filled almost completely with sediment. You can't clean the in-tank filters out, the only way to get them open is to break the housing and the filter media is paper that basically disintegrate when you handle it.

Here's what your in-tank assembly will then look like after removing the in-tank filter:
http://home.comcast.net/~k5shawn/sti/fuelpump.jpg

Here's how you can install the filter keeping that little magnet damper thingy. It goes on the top line connecting to the engine.
http://subyencore.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/2012-09-04-19-31-22.jpg

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks for the tip on using Super Glue on the Riv-Nuts. It makes lots of sense. Any particular Super Glue or just Generic?

Much appreciated,
John

The little $1.00 tubes in multi packs from Walmart are my favorites as they end up getting stuck together you can't open the tube again and you waste it anyway.... The glue really adds a good safety factor to the assembly.

[metalmaker12]

so why did they tell me they would send out a new one when I asked if I was supposed to cut it?

And why do we all need to hit such issues w/o communication from Factory Five BEFORE we get there and spin our wheels????

I also have the updated filler neck. Dan, they have been busy with many updates and shipments, most of our issues are very minor in the whole scheme of things. If you have any concerns email me, I am in clear contact with them very often.

[Xusia]

This bottle may cost more than the Walmart stuff, but it's the ONLY superglue bottle/container I've ever seen that doesn't get clogged. You get to use ALL the superglue:

http://www.freedivestore.com/fin-accessories/41-loctite-super-glue.html

[RM1SepEx]

Metalmaker....

Any tips on getting the wiring situated? It's awful hard to do alone dragging that 30 or so lbs of wire etc...

Did you just try to lay it out in general location next to the car? Work it in through the passenger compartment...

[metalmaker12]

Your a tropper for sure, I give you a lot of credit man. I just laid it in the tunnel completely plugged together and just plugged in the engine plugs and moved down to the column plugs. You have to extend the brake light, clutch switches and all the head light, fans and horns (if your using the oem horns)and tail lights, along with tranny, reverse and neutral safety. Eventually you will also have to extend the column wires to fit the interior center console piece in. Use zip ties to hold it in place as temporary holds to get it tight in the tunnel, but not to crazy, you might have to fix a relay etc. Get it all together and see if you get power to cluster.Than take two shots and call me in the morning when your lost and I will guide you. The bigger pain is the e brake cables. I am at a stand still waiting for my Boyd tank

[RM1SepEx]

did you extend before laying it in the car or after? I'm not sure how accurate their extension #s are and slight routing changes will effect how long they need to be, I know for sure that I may choose different routings based on what I've seen out of them so far!

My broken thumb's still giving me a problem and I burnt my hand on my Kart's exhaust 2 weeks ago so I've got some bothersome stuff going on as well.

I played with the shifter and ebrake placement, I can see what you mean with the ebrake cables and I don't know what I'll do with shifter. I'm still waiting for the new seat rails and I'm thinking the stock steering wheel won't work with the stock seat, wheels too close. The stock seats barely even fit in the seat space... UGH

[metalmaker12]

I extended once in the car to get good measurements, like I said the build book for me is a guide, and I just went with instincts. Yea I scrapped the idea of stock seats, steering wheel, FFR tank and stock offset wheels

[RM1SepEx]

I've been procrastinating on the wires, once I got almost everything else B/O I've been doing those things first. I moved my gas pedal up almost 1.5 inches and I'm still not happy w position. BTW can someone shoot me a photo showing how that stupid pedal spring goes? I removed it to weld the pedal rod w/o melting the pedal and can't see how it goes!

Life keeps getting in the way, delaying my work on the 818... tractor problems stopping my daughter's lawn mowing, carb clogged up on my DD2 Kart due to STUPID ethanol mandates... Now it's running strong again and my new MG Green slicks won't seat on my rims! Have to get something mounted today for tomorrow's autocross!

At least the weather has been great and the MC riding and convertible driving has been awesome! New top going on my 91 325IC, going in the shop Monday. Only 22 years out of the original fabric soft top!

[RM1SepEx]

Metal,

which side did you run the wires that connect to the transaxle connections and the last O2 sensor?

[metalmaker12]

Drivers

[metalmaker12]

My cell is 401-523-9249, text me with questions

[RM1SepEx]

So between the manual (little use) and Metalmaker's inputs (more helpful) here is where I got to today with the wiring:

I think that Factory Five's add x inches to wire y instructions are not much help, there is too much variability depending on placement and routing...

so I dumped the harness in the car and started hooking stuff up starting with the engine connections

As you move along you need to rearrange the harness and untwist and untangle. It is a big help if most of the sheathing is removed.

My rear harness must be way different that the one's used to do the manual. I was able to entend it all the way to the rear of the car and loop some of it around the transmission for a photo. My fuel pump controller can be place beside the transaxle. I have over 7 feet of wire between the fuel pump connections and the controller. My tail light extensions will be very short.

You have to extend all 3 of the connections to the transaxle and the rearmost O2 sensor. Metal and I are running them down the right side of the car. I'll be doing that when I start up again Monday, autocross tomorrow.

If you strip the sheathing the 10 GA starter wire appears long enough to avoid needing to extend it.

If I place the main fuse panel up vs the angled frame member over the tank but under the rear firewall it leaves much more room to stretch the harness forward vs mounting it over the left trailing arm pivot as shown in the manual

It appears that everything going to the steering wheel, gauges etc will need to be extended, not just the few wires identified in the manual.

I'm going to cut up the tunnel aluminum to make it easier to put the wire in and service it if I have a problem. I'm going to make 3 cuts: first remove the back portion that contacts the rear firewall on both sides. This area gets covered by the smaller, heavier gauge piece anyway. I can mount these two pieces permanently and now still remove the fire wall and gas tank. I have a confined space to pack in the wiring vs trying to lower the cover over what will be a huge rats nest of wires.

Next I'm going to cut off the top. I'll mount it separately with riv nuts, I may make a new piece with the sides bent over for a better finish, I'll be upholstering it anyway.

I pounded the ECU tabs flat, I think I can use them to mount the ecu over the tank on the right side. I'll make a small aluminum cover for the back side

I have a couple questions:

The green plug from the cruise control in the wheel, what does it plug in to? ( Photo 10 )
I have a plug near the main fuse block, clear in color same pigtail output area as the windshield washer pump, what is it?
I have single plugs near each headlight harness for the horns, confirmed by Metalmaker as horn connections, I also have a black connecter with a latch that is still connected to a horn... You can see it in one of the above photos by the ECU. It comes off the harness the same area as the ballast resistor... (I think that's what it is, says caution high temp on it) 3 horns, really? ( picture 4 )
I have a single light green wire that ends with a black spade connector that comes of the biggest of the 3 large white connecters, must have lost the ID tape... any ideas? parking brake perhaps

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[metalmaker12]

The last one sounds like the parking brake, if its GB I am almost certain it is. Take pics of all your question wire connectors and send them to me, I will figure it out for you.

[GUNS]

Great progress Dan! Thanks for the info on the wiring, it's going to be very helpful when I get to that point.

[RM1SepEx]

the last one sounds like the parking brake, if its gb i am almost certain it is. Take pics of all your question wire connectors and send them to me, i will figure it out for you.

gb ??

[metalmaker12]

Green black

[RM1SepEx]

I updated the above post with ID of the photos where I had questions

here are some more...
I have a horn plugged into a single conductor black plug with a latch, it connects to the harness at the cruise control harness exit and the point where the ballast resistor ? pigtail comes out... I also have two apparent horn connections near each headlight harness connection

you can see the 3 large white plugs that connect a big porton of the harness together. I've removed a bunch of wires so I'm sure that the light green wire did not come off the plug alone before dieting the harness. It has a single conductor black plug w/o a latch. I think it is the parking brake

The other question was the light white two conductor connector that comes off a short 8-10 inch pigtail from the main fuse box. It comes out at the same point as the green two wire connector for the washer pump

Also photos of my tunnel section with the top cut off. Now I can drill and rivet the sides in place and have a nice closed space to arrange the wires... Hopefully I'll be able to get the relays etc on the top for easier access. I trashed the top piece cutting it off, it curled big time. It's hard to cut a stressed 90 degree bend. I'll shear up a new removable top and use riv nuts... I've placed the rear heavy cover that shields the E Brake cables etc... It was bent for tight fit to the aluminum w/o the rubber bubble molding to protect the wires from chafing... doesn't "fit" well... what did others do?

Are we supposed to use that plastic edging that we used for the seat belts around the round wire pass through hole in the front firewall?

21986

21987

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21991

[RM1SepEx]

So I can't find my steering wheel's clockspring... anyone got one cheap, I'm not using the airbag but it looks like I need it for my cruise control connections? Am I correct??? And if you go to an aftermarket wheel what are people doing with their wiper and blinker control stalks, cruise stalk?

Am I the only one planning on keeping the cruise control?

[metalmaker12]

The green black single wire to the slip over style plug looks like the e brake, plus there does not seem to be any other single gb single wires thAt end like that from my research. Also if it comes from the section you are mentioning it is in the right location to be that wire . I am not running cruise and yes you need a click spring. I don't really need mine, i am running a seperate horn setup, so if your patient I will send you it.

[metalmaker12]

I haven't bought a steering wheel yet cause it is always the last thing I put on with the winshield

[RM1SepEx]

just stopped for the night, made great progress on the wiring etc...

I found that with some judicious wire tracing and a couple cuts and resolder joints you can juggle some of the wires routing to make it much cleaner and reduce the need to extend wires.

My yellow starter wire is plenty long as is my pigtail for the wipers.

If you lay it out carefully and untwist and separate the different sections it actually starts cleaning up pretty well. I think my modification of the tunnel makes it much easier to tuck the wires into the tunnel. I have several of the remote grounds that exist that can be grouped together and grounded inside the tunnel. All of the lighting ends up in one set of pigtails, and there are 3 connections to the transaxle and final CAT to lengthen and route back. I'm going to go down the left side along with the wires to my tail lights etc...

I may cut off some more wire bundle sheathing to free up some addl wire for the brake and other "control" wires in the front. I might get them to run "cleaner" and avoid making them longer yet!

I'll have more photos tomorrow afternoon, If I can find my GoPro's charger I might get a short walk around video done up too.

Chris, the wire in question looks like a pale green with no stripe. I do remember having a wire labeled for the e brake but the tape must have been ripped off... I hope that this is the right one.

I'll hook up the throttle tomorrow, almost everything is plugged in, perhaps I'll be able to attempt starting my little beast this week.

Bottom line: using the stock wiring doesn't look to be that intimidating... and it was my only real concern with the build. hopefully I won't have some sort of unusual problem but it's pretty much plug them in where you unhooked them and strip out what you don't want. I think that w/o stripping unneeded circuits the tunnel would be very full!

I did notice a brake line leak! nice puddle under one of my calipers... looks like I need to play with the left rear line again!

I'll be able to mount the ECU and the cruise control unit over the low portion of the gas tank on the right side...

No ideas on my other connectors in question??? Can someone check their harness please?

[metalmaker12]

Straight green for e brake correct , sorry for the confusion. The two small plugs under the main fuse box( green and tanish) is your question correct?

[RM1SepEx]

Straight green for e brake correct , sorry for the confusion. The two small plugs under the main fuse box( green and tanish) is your question correct?

Thanks re confirming the ebrake! yes the other two questions are:

Yes Chris, the light white or tan two conductor connector that comes off a short 8-10 inch pigtail from the main fuse box. It comes out at the same point as the green two wire connector for the washer pump.

I also have a horn plugged into a single conductor black plug with a latch, it connects to the harness at the cruise control harness exit and the point where the ballast resistor ? pigtail comes out... the connector and latch match. It appears that I never detached it from the harness. I also have two apparent horn connections near each headlight harness connection. If I assume this horn is wrong, what goes here?

Note to self: You must document/label better when you are ripping apart the donor. Even more important when you are doing it a year ahead of kit release!

I found a couple others out front, I'll take photos of those this morning after I get better light...

[Mechie3]

I put tape all on the connectors and labeled it. I bit myself in the but when it came to labeling the large suspension bolts. Told myself "ehh, I nkow what these look like". Derp!

[RM1SepEx]

tape... came... OFF ... sheepish grin

[VD2021]

I would expect someone with a service manual could identify those fairly quickly for you.

[RM1SepEx]

I expect someone with a WRX could easily too... :-)

The service manual route isn't that easy. The next person to get to the wire harness or someone with theirs in a box can ID my taped "issues" easily

so I took the time to document what you end up with mbefore I make extensions:


wipers and brake res, long enough now to reach photo 1
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what is this white plug for? comes out of the root pigtail where this relay box connects (1 foot away?) photo 2
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tunnel shot w wires tucked in photo 3
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trans and final cat plugs to extend photo 4
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Tail lights pigtail, not sure what will need to be done until body is mounted photo 5
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odb2 and clutch and brake plugs photo 6
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head lights, fog lights and horns see thumbnail

fuel pump and sender wiring to solder to provided hardware photo 8

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What is the PN for the aluminum piece that covers the flex tubing at the dead pedal? I can't find them! photo 7
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[fateo66]

I expect someone with a WRX could easily too... :-)

The service manual route isn't that easy. The next person to get to the wire harness or someone with theirs in a box can ID my taped "issues" easily

so I took the time to document what you end up with mbefore I make extensions:


what is this white plug for? comes out of the root pigtail where this relay box connects (1 foot away?) photo 2
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The white plug is used for diagnostics and re-flashing the ECU

But you will want to unplug those green "test" connectors or else your car will be in limp mode, which makes your fans go crazy and limits your power.

[RM1SepEx]

The white plug is used for diagnostics and re-flashing the ECU

But you will want to unplug those green "test" connectors or else your car will be in limp mode, which makes your fans go crazy and limits your power.

mucho gracias!!!

they were unplugged and they just looked like they went together, no wonder I didn't label them!

I'll arrange for easy access to all 3 under the dash!

love your build, some serious Superbaru knowledge!

I'm an old fart that's more comfortable with a Japenese two stroke, or an old V8! Thanks for the help... Any ideas on my other two questionable plugs? I'm getting close, going back at it with the shrink tubing and solder this afternoon.

[Mechie3]

I had a japanese two stroke. It pissed me off too much so I went with an Austrian (I think) 2 stroke. :lol:

[RM1SepEx]

Right now I have three Yamaha RD350B 1973-1975 bikes, 3 Yamaha KT100 kart engines, 1 PRD RK100 kart engine and a Rotax DD2 from Austria

I run 1/2 synthetic 1/2 caster oil... on the back of my RM1DD2 I have a happy bunny cartoon, passing gas, "My exhaust smells better than yours!" Can't beat the power deliver of a 2 stroke on the pipe. 2 years ago at Loring we exceeded the Digitron's RPM limit... I called to ask why it was displaying dashes... RPM in excess of 20,000 ! the DD2 makes power at low RPM, only 12,000 by a 34 HP kart is exhillerating. Kind of like your FMod with the Rotax and yes it is Austrian, they make a sweet, reliable motor. Have crankcase seal problems on the old Kawasaki 440? We did on our Red Devil FMod

[icky]

On the test mode connector, I would splice an easy to reach swich, assuming that your using a factory ecu with that harness.

[fateo66]

I updated the above post with ID of the photos where I had questions

here are some more...
I have a horn plugged into a single conductor black plug with a latch, it connects to the harness at the cruise control harness exit and the point where the ballast resistor ? pigtail comes out... I also have two apparent horn connections near each headlight harness connection

you can see the 3 large white plugs that connect a big porton of the harness together. I've removed a bunch of wires so I'm sure that the light green wire did not come off the plug alone before dieting the harness. It has a single conductor black plug w/o a latch. I think it is the parking brake

The other question was the light white two conductor connector that comes off a short 8-10 inch pigtail from the main fuse box. It comes out at the same point as the green two wire connector for the washer pump

Also photos of my tunnel section with the top cut off. Now I can drill and rivet the sides in place and have a nice closed space to arrange the wires... Hopefully I'll be able to get the relays etc on the top for easier access. I trashed the top piece cutting it off, it curled big time. It's hard to cut a stressed 90 degree bend. I'll shear up a new removable top and use riv nuts... I've placed the rear heavy cover that shields the E Brake cables etc... It was bent for tight fit to the aluminum w/o the rubber bubble molding to protect the wires from chafing... doesn't "fit" well... what did others do?

Are we supposed to use that plastic edging that we used for the seat belts around the round wire pass through hole in the front firewall?

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mucho gracias!!!

they were unplugged and they just looked like they went together, no wonder I didn't label them!

I'll arrange for easy access to all 3 under the dash!

love your build, some serious Superbaru knowledge!

I'm an old fart that's more comfortable with a Japenese two stroke, or an old V8! Thanks for the help... Any ideas on my other two questionable plugs? I'm getting close, going back at it with the shrink tubing and solder this afternoon.

Perhaps I missed them, were these the other plugs you were referring too?

I'm a little confused as to what you are referring to in the first picture but that horn that has one wire coming out of it is for the alarm system.

The white connector is for a second (rear) windshield pump ...Or if you want a little extra free power it can become an intercooler sprayer...

The last wire is for your e-brake

[RM1SepEx]

Thank you... Makes sense now to have 3 horns! Add that to the extra pump connector (was obviously unused, it is full of rubberized crap) I'm now all set on connections.

If you look at the tunnel those 3 connectors are easy to access by the open end by your feet at the gas pedal end. I bought some illuminated round panel switches... could be easy to implement

God, I love this forum! :-)

[metalmaker12]

Glad we could all help, your getting there Dan

[RM1SepEx]

It's too bad my daughter keeps breaking the lawn tractor... carb work again yesterday! I've repaired the deck(s) 4 times this summer! Life in general takes up too much time.

I received another FedX tracking # yesterday! Seat rails and CV straps?

[RM1SepEx]

Anyone else planning on using the stock seats? Did you look at the update that they sent re new seat rails?

Bottom line, they don't fit either. The space is 21 1/4 long 3 of the rails are 23+ long!

They raise the stock seats HIGHER!

Driver's seat shown, left side of seat 1 inch higher than the right (tilted towards the center of the car?)

Will work with Tech support tomorrow!

Nice 80 degree day, Hawaiian shirt, convertible, going out to dinner!

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[nkw8181]

Maybe a dumb question but maybe there is some small deference in the way seats mount on different year models? This would account for some things I would think.

Nolan

[Mechie3]

2 of the rails could be 23" long if you mounted to the left/right running bars. The inside parts would interfere with the angled bar in front of the seat and can't be moved farther back due to the firewall.

[RM1SepEx]

Maybe a dumb question but maybe there is some small deference in the way seats mount on different year models? This would account for some things I would think.

Nolan

they have different mounts and mountuing for 2002-2005 and 2006-2007 naturally we found out with the original set of mounts my 05 has the 06-07 seats!

note that the brackets extend past the seats, the seat cushion gets smooshed by that diagonal tube at the front of the space for the seats. Those brackets are about 23 inches long... the seat space is 21 1/4 long

[RM1SepEx]

News flash... From Tony Z

The rails are longer to make them usable with the tall guy tank option, for us mere average sized guys we need to cut them off. The left side of the driver's seat is taller because that is what it took to get the seat level, the originals are boat anchors (as far as stock seats are concerned)

The updated instructions are incomplete and need new photos, they are working on it...

[Mechie3]

Here's a good pic to explain. These aluminum pieces were cut to 21" to test fit before cutting to final size. You can see there is no room to grow an additional 2" on the innermost piece. It already touches the firewall and the angled brace. The outer piece would be able to go forward/back more but there's nothing there.

http://i.imgur.com/XOrJ6VA.jpg?2

[Silvertop]

Anyone else planning on using the stock seats? Did you look at the update that they sent re new seat rails?

Bottom line, they don't fit either. The space is 21 1/4 long 3 of the rails are 23+ long!

They raise the stock seats HIGHER!

Driver's seat shown, left side of seat 1 inch higher than the right (tilted towards the center of the car?)

Will work with Tech support tomorrow!

Nice 80 degree day, Hawaiian shirt, convertible, going out to dinner!

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It has been my plan from the beginning to use the stock seats, though I have to admit that I am wavering. The primary issue for me is seat height, and brackets that raise the seat even higher are ominous. I need to make sure that the final height allows me to pass the broomstick rule. A secondary concern is that I'm considering the desirability of being able to use 5-6 point competition belts, which precludes the use of the stock seats (no submarine belt slot). But final seat height is paramount. I'll be watching with interest to see how this plays out............

[RM1SepEx]

How tall are you?

[longislandwrx]

maybe they can be mounted more to the outside and slipped UNDER the brace?

[RM1SepEx]

I'll be trying them later today... I think anyone who is tall will be making their own mounts and removing foam from the seat area...

I just finished my wire extensions except for the front lights, fan and horns and the rear lights and I'm almost ready to turn the key for the first time... Everything is plugged in...

I'm not sure that I can wind down enough for my afternoon nap today! Can't attempt start until I finish up my rear trans plate allowing me to put oil in the transmission. I need to get over to a friend's and powder coat it tomorrow.

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Powers up!

I have only one light plugged in, one of the license plate lights, and it is on even with the key out of the car...

Hey Chris, time for my shots???? :-)

[RM1SepEx]

So here goes, new seat rails, 05 WRX donor (note my seats are 06-07 NOT early seats Apparently they changed mid year)

I don't think anyone over 5'10" will be able to use an unmodiofioed stock 06-07 WRX seat

I've included 3 photos, front view, seat pan vs diagonal brace and under seat clearance.

I will attempt to get them to lower the seat rails or I'll make my own. It can be lowered by a full inch.

I cut off about 3 inches from the seat rails. The seat now just barely fits into the space. The seat tilt mechanism is touching the rear bulkhead, the front pad isn't compressed vs the diagonal as it was with the older brackets. IT would be possible to move the seat forward, perhaps an inch, at this seat height.

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[longislandwrx]

I have only one light plugged in, one of the license plate lights, and it is on even with the key out of the car...

Make sure you didn't hit the parking light switch/aka the battery drain switch on top of the column.

[metalmaker12]

Sounds like the parking light switch bro

[RM1SepEx]

I'll check the parking switch, which way is on? I did have the hazards on when I turned the key too.

Bolted up my header today... too damn low! 2 1/2 inches below the frame! UGH

spent the AM powder coating my trans cover and custom aluminum wheel centers. I post some photos after the laser work is done.

[Samiam1017]

Dan. What headers did you get again? Can you get us a measurement from the top oh the flange to the lowest point of the header

[longislandwrx]

Forward. You'll see red paint if its on.

[RM1SepEx]

I lied... sorry, only 2 inches below the frame... the oil pan sits about 1/2 to 3/4 below the frame. I'll have to look up the mfg. I bought it from AJW a year ago... Now that they are mounted it's hard to get that measurement for you but you can measure your motor and figure it out... depth from exhaust flange to bottom of oil pan m(lowest at the drain of course and add 1 1/2 inches.

I looked up my old information, FMS Ceramic coated, 1 piece, incl catless up pipe with flex in up pipe

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BTW I would NOT buy FMS product in the future, they shipped it to me direct and it was chipped/damaged in shipment. FMS would NOT stand behind their product and offered me $10 for the damage. Thankfully AJW did make it right and took care of me to my satisfaction, they are a stand up company.

[RM1SepEx]

I crawled underneath this morning... Chad, you asked about the oil pan vs frame. I was correct, the pan's flat section is even with the lower frame rails (the front section with the pan under your butt and legs. The oil drain sticks down 1/2 - 3/4 inch below the frame rails.

[C.Plavan]

Thanks Dan. I should be OK if I don't go off the track backwards :)

[RM1SepEx]

no problem my day has been very interesting...

A friend shot a deer for me in archery season (buy a tag, shoot as many as you want, just keep buying tags!)

so I need to move the 818 to get access to my electric winch... I throw the tires on and the rear wheel contact the upper trailing arms! I had to move the bushings to the outside to get wheel clearance! with stock 05 WRX wheels and 225 tires...

wow

[C.Plavan]

Just an FYI- I was looking at going with the Killer B header/uppipe. Here is a picture of it installed relative to the stock oil pan. Looks a bit higher than the headers you have.
http://i.imgur.com/YOorcrxl.jpg (http://imgur.com/YOorcrx)

[RM1SepEx]

That one might have a problem with the frame crossmember... that front most portion of the header where the collector swings back around might hit the frame and will be very close to the gas tank.

I think that you want a header that doesn't extend past the front of the motor/timing belt cover etc...

[Bob_n_Cincy]

no problem my day has been very interesting...

A friend shot a deer for me in archery season (buy a tag, shoot as many as you want, just keep buying tags!)

so I need to move the 818 to get access to my electric winch... I throw the tires on and the rear wheel contact the upper trailing arms! I had to move the bushings to the outside to get wheel clearance! with stock 05 WRX wheels and 225 tires...

wow

During my glider test I had 16" x 6.5" x 55mm offset NA stock rims with 225/45-16 tires.
I had 3/8" clearance at the rim and 3/8" at the tire to the upper control arm.
If you want to go to wider rims or tires you must also go to less offset or spacers.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

I had a busy day...

skinned and quartered a small doe
put the wheels on for the first time
Installed the rest of the header to turbo, the intercooler, installed my modified turbo coolant expansion tank

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note the tire clearance, 225 x 55 x 16 tires on stock 05 wrx rims, I had to move the trailing arm spacers to both on the outside of the hiem joint for clearance

I'm concerned about rear camber. It looks like I have too much and I'm not comfortable extending the upper transverse links much further. My upper transverse links are 6 inches long.

I'm also concerned about the lower rear of the intercooler, it contacts the rear shock tower brace... what will happen when the engine jumps around on the engine mounts?

[Erik W. Treves]

well that is looking very good!

[RM1SepEx]

any thoughts on my rear camber Erik? are your upper transverse links 6 inches long? I'm thinking 7 would be much better, would leave more engaged threads on the hiem joints

[Erik W. Treves]

I just put my camber gauge on there and set it...let me go out and measure it... I think I put 1* or .5* camber in it.

[Erik W. Treves]

left one is about 9 3/4"

[RM1SepEx]

I have 6 inch threaded tube with hiems on each end and, yes just about 9 3/4... I guess I'm in the ballpark, just seemed like I was leaving less thread in the tube than I'd like to see.

[Erik W. Treves]

sounds about right then...

[RM1SepEx]

My next questions:

What does the "other" nipple on my Turbo expansion tank connect to? The manual shows a tube going down on page 274. The other one goes to the rear puke tank

I have a 3rd tube under the two fuel line connectors, can't read the blue masking tape anymore... what do I do with it?

I have a 1/2 OD tube coming off the intake manifold on the left side... connect to ? or just plug it...

Anyone have an easy, clean soln for a charcoal canister and location?

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[wallace18]

My next questions:

What does the "other" nipple on my Turbo expansion tank connect to? The manual shows a tube going down on page 274. The other one goes to the rear puke tank

I have a 3rd tube under the two fuel line connectors, can't read the blue masking tape anymore... what do I do with it

I have a 1/2 OD tube coming off the intake manifold on the left side... connect to ? or just plug it...

Anyone have an easy, clean soln for a charcoal canister and location?

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22411

The 3rd line is for the evap system. I blocked mine off. I am using a junkyard cannister ( small) just to my vent line on the tank. The other nipple on the tank can go to a nipple you install in the top water outlet. This is a good idea if you want to have an easy way to bleed air out of the cooling system.Wayne showed me this tip. I threaded a 1/8" NPD nipple and connect it to the coolant tank.There are several lines you may need to plug on your intake due to lack of emission stuff, ect.

22412

[fateo66]

My next questions:

What does the "other" nipple on my Turbo expansion tank connect to? The manual shows a tube going down on page 274. The other one goes to the rear puke tank

I have a 3rd tube under the two fuel line connectors, can't read the blue masking tape anymore... what do I do with it?

I have a 1/2 OD tube coming off the intake manifold on the left side... connect to ? or just plug it...

Anyone have an easy, clean soln for a charcoal canister and location?

22408

This is the turbo's coolant return line (the feed comes from the head)

22409

This is for the evap system. Typically a solenoid opens up to suck fumes out of the gas tank threw this line. Since the 818 is not designed like that I would cap it so that you are not sucking in fresh air when the solenoid activates.

22410

This is the brake booster vacuum port. If you do not plan on running the power brakes plug it

22411

See above

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks for all the help! Just getting up from my afternoon nap, time to get back to it for a while...

I can't see/find anything on the head where I would connect a hose to the "extra" barb on the turbo coolant tank. The barb farthest to the rear is connected to the turbo coolant line, the middle one (that was broken off in the accident and I repaired with the brass one) I can't find a head connection to the right head area, the farthest forward comes off above the pressure cap and goes to the puke tank.

So where do I look on the right head? 2005 WRX

I'll cap off the other two, no power brakes and that behemoth of an evap system is long gone... :-)

[RM1SepEx]

The hose from the head goes to the turbo, from the turbo to the tank... so that isn't the issue.

Wallace 18 "The other nipple on the tank can go to a nipple you install in the top water outlet. This is a good idea if you want to have an easy way to bleed air out of the cooling system.Wayne showed me this tip. I threaded a 1/8" NPD nipple and connect it to the coolant tank"

I don't understand what you did... This tank is already the top of the system.

[wallace18]

The hose from the head goes to the turbo, from the turbo to the tank... so that isn't the issue.

Wallace 18 "The other nipple on the tank can go to a nipple you install in the top water outlet. This is a good idea if you want to have an easy way to bleed air out of the cooling system.Wayne showed me this tip. I threaded a 1/8" NPD nipple and connect it to the coolant tank"

I don't understand what you did... This tank is already the top of the system.

This is how Wayne explained it to me. On the WRX normal the radiator hose comes off the outlet and runs uphill to the radiator. This allows air to escape going up hill. In the kit you run the hose pointing downward to attach to the flex pipe going to the front of the car. This traps air in that area. There has been documented overheat problems because of this. Just put in the nipple run it to the extra one on the tank and Viola no more air trapped. It is so simple. FFR is possibly working on this fix as well. Don't quote me on that. I just wanted to pass on this tip to others as well. It is up to you to do it or not. JMO.

[RM1SepEx]

So this nipple had the hose that connected to the nipple on the right top of the radiator that I had to plug?

Could I just connect a hose to it with a valve so that I can use it to bleed the system? Can't you just do that from the cap on this turbo expansion tank?

I don't have a tank with an extra nipple to connect it to... You or Wayne have a photo???

[metalmaker12]

On my thread I installed a tee to bleed the system just the same if a one was paying attention

[RM1SepEx]

So you ran from that tee in the lower line up to the "extra" nipple? Your photo showed the tee but not where the vent line went...

[metalmaker12]

This is how i am doing it, and most others. "Tee is in upper line"
Turbo coolant tank rearward outlet to upper hose tee for easier burpage
Turbo coolant tank forward outlet to an overflow tank
Up front now
Radiator cap to another overflow tank
Radiator small passenger outlet-plugged

Don't take all my pics as bible , I had the lines up front both going to the tank, my dad ran them like that, not knowing the routing but the small outlet is plugged now

[Mechie3]

Tee is in upper line...


What is the upper line? The top coolant outlet from the motor?

[RM1SepEx]

check out his photo

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=21751&d=1379987699

the hose from the upper engine radiator hose has a tee in it, apparently that hose connects to the barb on the turbo expansion tank, this allows you to burp the system as the routing tends to form air pockets

[Mechie3]

I see. One more part to make/buy...

[RM1SepEx]

I may try to try to burp mine w/o...
I'm a glutton for punishment, I did own a v6 Fiero (hard to burp), and currently own an old E30 BMW (hard to burp)

[metalmaker12]

Also, the vent on the tank can go to the smaller dia lower fuel vent line on the engine

[RM1SepEx]

you could drill and tap and install the nipple into the aluminum outlet...

[RM1SepEx]

Posted on another thread how to remove seat airbags, don't remember which thread...

rehash

unzip rear panel
pull out ends of the panel, it just flips under and clips into a plasticpiece on the seat
pull the airbag wire out between the seat pan and back carefully
rip tape holding wire in place
cut the two hog rings holding side panel tight
remove two 10 mm nuts holding bag assy to seat back
carefully work airbag assy out of it's foam pocket
foam is glued to the airbag assy, carefully peel it off
fill the area of the airbag with replacement foam. I bought cheap camping pad at WalMart and cut 3 layers to size
work it back into place
replace hogrings or just use a couple tie wraps to hold the side panel tight
zip it up and work the plastic clip back in place at the bottom of the seat back

Done, 2 seats, remove just under 5 lbs!


weight of each seat airbag: 2 lbs 4 oz as per my digital postal scale


Here is a shot of my organization of the ECU, cruise control unit, alarm horn and ballast resistor? As well as some other build status shots

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[metalmaker12]

you could drill and tap and install the nipple into the aluminum outlet...

Yea you could, or do what I did, anything to help burp it.

[RM1SepEx]

Where did you find your "device" with the nipple in the hose connector? Is it aluminum? I also noticed that you ran your ebrake lines around the outside of the frame, I ran mine through the middle thinking it would work with less drag with the easier bends

[metalmaker12]

Yeah it is aluminum, I had it lying around from another build, but you can get them on ebay, speedway etc. My e brake would not work correctly unless I ran it around the frame to keep tension on the lines. I tried with less tension and got no real braking force

[RM1SepEx]

I've been procrastinating on my first start, trying to get some more mechanicals buttoned up.

I don't like their new 06-07 seat brackets, thought I could get another 1 inch of headroom...

so I welded in the corner that they had cut off from the left support to allow drilling another set of holes. Theoretically they could cut two sets for two seat heights and if the front holes are ovals it should even allow changing the seat angle by using the lower rear holes with the higher front holes as an example. doing this makes you fold your legs more allowing taller drivers to feel more comfortable.

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I have to remove the top hole on the rear of the rail that isn't attached to clear the seat tilt mechanism, but I've gained a full inch of headroom.

I'll forward this information to engineering, hopefully later builds will include more flexible seat rails.

[nkw8181]

Thanks for the extra headroom!

[RM1SepEx]

I cut off the top rear hole on the left driver's rail to clear the tilt mechanism and the seat sits fine with a full extra inch of headroom... A small portion of the seat is down below the rails but there is clearance with the 1 inch x braces in the seat area. next I'll try to tilt the seat pan and raise the front of the seat. I'm hoping with the front higher I can get my 3/4 in high sliders under the rails and allow my seat to slide a couple inches forward for the wife... If I can't do that... she will need a pad to push her forward to reach the pedals.

My sliders will fit and I think I can get her 2 inches of forward travel... With the sliders I think I can drop the seat even farther down on the rails. I wish that 1 inch tube going diagonally across the frame wasn't there. I was able to use the low back holes and higher front holes to tilt the seat pan. I had to use a file to extend the oval hole a small amt

[RM1SepEx]

So, I've been out of it for a while, bad drug reaction... been on big time antibiotics, finally up and around again, lost a week

Noticed that I have a damaged steering rack boot. Anyone got one hanging around?

Moved the 818 onto my lift so I can manipulate the height, hopefully it will be easier to debug my electrical problems... My starter doesn't engage... need to check the solenoid, spins but no flywheel engagement.

Someone mentioned last week that their fresh transaxle fill didn't take much oil. Mine is showing full at less than 3 quarts. I'm guessing that once I get her started and moving around it will take more oil.

I'm considering removing that angled 1 inch tube in front of the driver's seat so I can slide it farther forward for my wife... no reply from Factory Five on how much rigidity I would lose. Anyone else have that discussion yet?

[Erik W. Treves]

Mine was the same way... I went ahead and put the other .7 in it before the dyno session....hope you are on the mend!

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks Erik, I'm almost always on the hairy edge physically with my MS. Expecting rain here tonite, shooting pain all over, hate it when the weather changes!

you got some very nice dyno numbers!

It's taken longer than I would like to button up some of the mechanical stuff... so much is really individual preference. I've learned to take the manual's directions as more of a suggestion. :-)

[metalmaker12]

I am up to temp and driving it all around my hood, it's fun!!!I am charging my go pro as I type for a run to tape from cockpit.i also grabed a new charger for my laptop so maybe a tune soon. I have just about 3.25 quarts steady, in tranny to top off at like 3.5 maybe. 3.85 gallon coolant to top of at 4 gal at degas tank, koyo radiator, and two overflows to fill line. My dad is like 5'5 and we moved the kirkey all the way up and it was good for him, idk about him seeing over the wheel without a pillow though. I am 5'9 ish and I can just see over the dash etc.
Wayne was very helpful with some tips on burping the system, go Wayne thanks again man!! Erik's got dyno fever with great numbers and I am going to run a base map to clean things up a bit prob tommorow, dyno in a few weeks or sooner. I am going to start to button things up and get the interior going, and onto body work.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

My starter doesn't engage... need to check the solenoid, spins but no flywheel engagement.



Hi Dan
most importantly take care of your health.

Your solenoid plunger is working, because it is closing the electrical contacts that spin the motor.
The problem is mechanical in the head of the starter.
I suspect the pivot lever or bendix mechanism is gummed up from sitting for a while.

Keep any question coming.
Bob

[metalmaker12]

yea Bob is correct, free it up with some pb blast or other agent to get it to swivel out to its full length. hopefully this works

[RM1SepEx]

The donor was only rolled and totaled 2 years ago! Been sitting a long time...

My next big "other" problem is getting through the damn FAFSA financial aid stuff etc... two kids in college next year... My son will be 5th yr at RIT in BIOMed ENG, (last yr!) my daughter just got accepted in pre med at Pitt. Just mom and me at home next year!

[RM1SepEx]

I took a photo of my new wheel centers for the stock 05 WRX wheels:

22779

[Mechie3]

Those are some sweet centers.

My starter had the same problem as yours. At first I was concerned the motor had seized, but before I got upset I took the starter off and started it in the air. It took about 10 starts for it to stop going "click click" and actually spin. Mine only sat for 1.5 years.

[RM1SepEx]

Centers: turned aluminum in a lathe, 3 setscrews to tighten to the hole from the back side, PC semi gloss black to match the wheels, laser etched by a friend with Logo courtesy Dave, the Mad Dog!

Starter: Mine will spin but won't engage flywheel, haven't been able to debug/exercise it yet...

I need to wade through the wiring, will be my most difficult piece of the build due to physical issues and the holes in my brain from MS. Such work is good for limiting my long term disability!

Still fighting with my latest medical issues, Dr appt again this PM, not much work while I can't walk or sit much...

[RM1SepEx]

Here is my "burp" fitting and tank connection. Note that my 1/4 thick aluminum bracket is much simpler than Craig's! I did powder coat it black tho...

22969

22970

I was able to reuse the stock tubing with its bends. I used a 1/4 in pipe fitting to 5/16 barbed brass fitting. Drill a 7/16 hole in the aluminum coolant tube and tap with pipe thread. The straight fitting works great and access is easy. My fitting on the plastic tank was broken too so I had to install the same fitting on the other end.

my tank bracket can be cut with a band saw and offsets the tank just enough to clear the tube with the cover.

[RM1SepEx]

I went to align the front of my car today... I pulled the rack bellows to find the center and started twisting the tie rod to get the wheels straight.

The right side has very few threads in the outer, the left side is almost fully in.

23026

23027

I feel that I need to cut and extend the right inner tie rod...

Anyone else having a problem?

I have the newer 05-07 rack

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I went to align the front of my car today... I pulled the rack bellows to find the center and started twisting the tie rod to get the wheels straight.

The right side has very few threads in the outer, the left side is almost fully in.

23026

23027

I feel that I need to cut and extend the right inner tie rod...

Anyone else having a problem?

I have the newer 05-07 rack

Dan,
Take a look at my post 51
Bob

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11241-Bob-and-Mike-s-818Se-Build-Thread/page2

[Mechie3]

I think mine is aligned the same as it came off the WRX. Is yours a wagon? If so, Bob's issue is likely the sames as yours.

[wleehendrick]

Bob, was the root cause that the early chassis wagon LCA holes were off? Or that the wagon rack isn't wide enough? I just got my kit (and have a wagon donor), so is it safe to assume this has been addressed in the chassis or will I need longer tie rods?

Thanks,

Lee

[RM1SepEx]

23035

23036

mine is a sedan, WRX

bottom line, my rough measurements indicate that the rack is mounted about 3/4 of an inch too far to the left.

Pull off your rack bellows, center the rack

the pivots are waaaaay different from side to side!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, was the root cause that the early chassis wagon LCA holes were off? Or that the wagon rack isn't wide enough? I just got my kit (and have a wagon donor), so is it safe to assume this has been addressed in the chassis or will I need longer tie rods?

Thanks,

Lee

On my car, the functional center of the steering rack was not in the center of the car.
On newer frames, the LCA holes were moved in so the tie rods would reach. I don't know if the steering rack mounting was changed.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

Eric, Craig, can you check your cars? I think that we need revised brackets to shift our racks to the right about 3/4 to have both sides even. I'd expect bump steer due to the misalignment of the pivots!

[Mechie3]

One more thing to fix I guess. hopefully it's not too involved.

I'll check mine tonight if Vball/dinner allow time.

[metalmaker12]

I will double check my setup, but my rack seems to be lining up correctly alignment wise. I just centered the tie rods to the frame and centered the wheel and it seems pretty close lock to lock. I will do a closer assessment soon to get an official readout,, new wheels in mail so a go pro test drive is coming

[Mechie3]

Mine is off. Not sure by how much. The driver side boot is quite compressed while the other boot was rather stretched with the wheels both facing forward.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

This is how I moved mine over. It still needs to move over another 1/8"
23041

The rack they used on the original chassis is much longer on the passinger side.
I don't know what that is off of.

23042
compared to my rack
23043

I thought the issue was because my rack is from a wagon.
I bought a sedan rack on ebay and it has the same issue.
Bob

[Frank818]

That is compressed! That is compressed a lot.

[RM1SepEx]

so... after printing out the wiring diagram and using my netbook to use Craig's beautiful wiring guide with photos of the connectors... I found that there are two 2 wire connectors to the clutch pedal and I had only extended and hooked up one... the one I can't find on the wiring diagram! So after pizza and some wire extending I was in business.

I took my starter off, PB blasted the bendix area and manually cycled it a few times.

viola, turn the key, the starter engages! The fuel pump cranks up etc...

BUT because of the stupid steering rack issue I removed my lower water hose so I didn't fill her with anti freeze/water and couldn't crank her and attempt my first start!

Close!

Unrelated issue: when I hook up my battery the gauge cluster displays the ODO reading... is it supposed to do that without the key inserted? most electronic dash displays don't. If not ideas on where to look?

EDIT: just had to read farther down Craig's wiring thread! The cruise clutch switch... :-)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Unrelated issue: when I hook up my battery the gauge cluster displays the ODO reading... is it supposed to do that without the key inserted? most electronic dash displays don't. If not ideas on where to look?

Just check my sons 06 NA wagon. The odometer reads with key off.
It is an LCD screen, so the drain on the battery would be very low.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

awesome! :-)

how far did you "shift" your rack Bob? I'm thinking 3/4 would get it close to centered... I really need to get the coolant in so I can twist the key and attempt to start her...

[Bob_n_Cincy]

awesome! :-)

how far did you "shift" your rack Bob? I'm thinking 3/4 would get it close to centered... I really need to get the coolant in so I can twist the key and attempt to start her...

I think after you get all your camber, caster, and toe set you will only need about 1/2"
All my alignment has been done with string and a harbor freight digital level.

[RM1SepEx]

sooo...

best case is zero bump steer. This results when the rack pivots line up with a line made by through the upper and lower A arm pivots (ref Chassis Engineering, Herb Adams)

4 solutions, listed from worst to best (IMO)

1: extend the inner tie rod on the right side, simply cut rod, slide extension tube over the cut portion, re-weld. this yields zero bump steer on the left when straight, maximizes the bump to the right. NOTE: I have not removed the shock/spring to measure how much bump steer exists

2: cheat the position of the rack, it won't be in the center when straight (Factory Five's current soln.) You equalize the bump steer in each direction but turning radius varies because there are more turns to lock in one direction vs the other
I've went through all of the build threads, every existing car shows a compressed bellows on the left and extended on the right when straight.

23056
erik's

23057
metalmaker's

23058
wayne's

3: shift the rack to the right to place the rack in the center of the car, equalizes the bump steer to both sides, allows equal turning radius both ways, equal lock to lock on both sides (as per above) Bob can you do a simple measurement of bump steer for us with this solution?

4: lengthen the rack slide. make a spacer that screws into the rack and has female threads on the other end so that the inner tie rod screws into it. I'm not sure if the bellows will stretch far enough... I'll be attempting this solution

[Frank818]

So that Chassis Engineering thing means that the bellows need to be extended the exact same amount on each side?

And what if they are not like on those 3 builds? What should we except be the behavior on the road?

[metalmaker12]

Don't feel the rack needs to be shifted, my wheels are lining up and my wheels are straight with sufficient thread on tie rods and lock to lock very close. Could it been done, yea, does it have to, not from what I am seeing, but a true laser alignment might shift my thoughts. Final assessment is for now it is ok, and should be ok.

[wleehendrick]

So that Chassis Engineering thing means that the bellows need to be extended the exact same amount on each side?

And what if they are not like on those 3 builds? What should we except be the behavior on the road?

As Dan said "turning radius varies because there are more turns to lock in one direction vs the other" meaning that since the driver's side bellows is compressed more, you'll run out of rack travel earlier (and loose turning radius) making a right turn. It appears that tire/frame interference will probably be the limiting factor the other way (to the left).

[RM1SepEx]

I tore into it this morning

Bob is correct it is very close to an inch, I got a final measurement of 1 1/8 inches

I'll make up a 1 1/8 long spacer with a stud sticking out one side to screw into the rack and a hole threaded like the rack on the other end to screw in the inner tie rod end. Not sure of the thread yet, my local ACE only has 16 x 2.0 bolts and the threads are too course. Naturally I don't have such a large tap or die...

I'd rather do that than shift the rack to split the difference. The current setup has the rack short on BOTH ends, the pivot points do not line up for zero bump steer, I think with our almost parallel control arms a favorable condition exists, I don't expect much bump steer. My engineer's brain won't let me live with different turning radius, side to side. LOL

ref info

http://www.longacreracing.com/articles/art.asp?ARTID=13

[longislandwrx]

Dan,

What year rack are you using? Will this affect the 05+ guys with bolts on the driver side?

[Mechie3]

I have an 06 rack with the bolt through holes on the driver side. My driver side bellows is compressed with the passener side popped off since I didn't re-clamp it on yet.

[RM1SepEx]

I have an 05 and an 06 with the cast in mounts on the pinion end. They are identical in all aspects

[RM1SepEx]

She started right up!!!!!!!

BUT, I have a significant water leak under the motor... video will be forthcoming!

2nd customer start with stock WRX wiring loom!

Can you say PUMPED!!!!

[wleehendrick]

She started right up!!!!!!!

23062

Congrats!

[longislandwrx]

She started right up!!!!!!!


NICE! how many warning lights on the cluster??? :)

[RM1SepEx]

didn't notice how many lights

I found fluid dribbling out of the gooseneck thermostat area under the car... I spilled some when filling it too so it isn't real clear. resealed it and added high temp RTV. I'm hoping I don't have a "deeper" leak as the water pump is in back of the timing belt cover in that area...

I have the front shifter cables and the throttle cable to attach and I could go kart her... next week for sure

[Bob_n_Cincy]

She started right up!!!!!!!

BUT, I have a significant water leak under the motor... video will be forthcoming!

2nd customer start with stock WRX wiring loom!

Can you say PUMPED!!!!

great job Dan

[Bob_n_Cincy]

sooo...

best case is zero bump steer. This results when the rack pivots line up with a line made by through the upper and lower A arm pivots (ref Chassis Engineering, Herb Adams)

4 solutions, listed from worst to best (IMO)

1: extend the inner tie rod on the right side, simply cut rod, slide extension tube over the cut portion, re-weld. this yields zero bump steer on the left when straight, maximizes the bump to the right. NOTE: I have not removed the shock/spring to measure how much bump steer exists

2: cheat the position of the rack, it won't be in the center when straight (Factory Five's current soln.) You equalize the bump steer in each direction but turning radius varies because there are more turns to lock in one direction vs the other
I've went through all of the build threads, every existing car shows a compressed bellows on the left and extended on the right when straight.

23056
erik's

23057
metalmaker's

23058
wayne's

3: shift the rack to the right to place the rack in the center of the car, equalizes the bump steer to both sides, allows equal turning radius both ways, equal lock to lock on both sides (as per above) Bob can you do a simple measurement of bump steer for us with this solution?

4: lengthen the rack slide. make a spacer that screws into the rack and has female threads on the other end so that the inner tie rod screws into it. I'm not sure if the bellows will stretch far enough... I'll be attempting this solution

Another option might be to find this steering rack used on the silver chassis. It is longer on the passenger side.

23063

[Bob_n_Cincy]

3: shift the rack to the right to place the rack in the center of the car, equalizes the bump steer to both sides, allows equal turning radius both ways, equal lock to lock on both sides (as per above) Bob can you do a simple measurement of bump steer for us with this solution?

I'll have to take some pictures straight on at the suspension and draw some lines.
It will have to wait until next week. I'm leaving in a few minutes to go to VIR for my Ariel Atom driving experience (gift from wife). Then Sunday to Lexington, KY for an autocross. Then to Lake Cumberland to winterize camper and tow home the jet ski. All of this in my second donor car.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

Brake, ABS and Airbag warning lights... the brake one is simple, I haven't plugged it into the master cyl

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxjcOZykDyY&feature=youtu.be

[longislandwrx]

I'll have to take some pictures straight on at the suspension and draw some lines.
It will have to wait until next week. I'm leaving in a few minutes to go to VIR for my Ariel Atom driving experience (gift from wife). Then Sunday to Lexington, KY for an autocross. Then to Lake Cumberland to winterize camper and tow home the jet ski. All of this in my second donor car.
Bob

#winner

[flytosail]

She started right up!!!!!!!

BUT, I have a significant water leak under the motor... video will be forthcoming!

2nd customer start with stock WRX wiring loom!

Can you say PUMPED!!!!



Congrats!

[metalmaker12]

For the abs you need to completely remove the entire wiring to the unit and cluster, airbag, take the bulb out, brake also goes to e brake wire .

[RM1SepEx]

For the abs you need to completely remove the entire wiring to the unit and cluster, airbag, take the bulb out, brake also goes to e brake wire .

good to know, the ebrake wire isn't hooked up either, all the abs hardware and wiring is gone don't know about abs to the cluster and I'll get to the bulb for the airbag, all of the airbag hardware and wiring is gone too. I have a bunch of un-needed relays to pull too

like the rest of us now I need to button up a bunch of stuff to get it to go kart, for instance I found my ebrakes are dragging a bit and I'm having some issue with a hose to caliper connection in the left rear, I didn't extend the lights yet but I have no trust in their stated lengths as I have extra for my wipers and master cyl connections, didn't need an extension for the starter wire, my tail lights pretty much reach, etc..

I need to do throttle and shifter cables to the front, ebrake handle and will jury rig the front rack stuff until I can get a spacer made.

I'm vacillating as to getting it running with the stock kit provided exhaust vs jump to bell mouth 3 inch with a high flow cat and muffler. My wife thought it was pretty loud when I revved it up to 5000 rpm or so... just a catted downpipe right now


Help:

I'm having problems finding a replacement rack bellow/boot anyone have a source or want to mail me a good used one?

just found my leak: Water pump to engine...

UGH might be easiest to do if I pull the motor since I have to remove the timing belt and retime it...

[Mechie3]

I think I have a boot off a rack I bought just to take apart and see the insides.

[metalmaker12]

When you do pump, make sure to use a subaru rubber gasket, the gates one is junk paper. Abs something has to still be hooked up to illuminate cluster light. I guessing you tried the fuse?, if power is going to fuse to cluster, it might be that. Are you sure besides the huge chunk of abs wiring you got the black ground and red/white wire that runs through the harness to a power source /fuse relays and than cluster. Save the relays cause good to have if needed and not always cheap.

[Wayne Presley]

Help:

I'm having problems finding a replacement rack bellow/boot anyone have a source or want to mail me a good used one?

.

Rock Auto has them

[wallace18]

I just filled the hole in my cluster with black RTV to get rid of the abs and airbag led lights.

[RM1SepEx]

Chris, mine had a paper gasket...

Wayne, Rock auto is out, can't/wont allow me to order...

[RM1SepEx]

I'll have to take some pictures straight on at the suspension and draw some lines.
It will have to wait until next week. I'm leaving in a few minutes to go to VIR for my Ariel Atom driving experience (gift from wife). Then Sunday to Lexington, KY for an autocross. Then to Lake Cumberland to winterize camper and tow home the jet ski. All of this in my second donor car.
Bob

Bob when you get back do us a favor and measure the distance between the two inside front suspension pivots on the WRX you are driving and we can compare that to the 818... Did they make the 818 wider?

[Wayne Presley]

From a pure engineering stand point, you want the ball of the INNER tie rod to be at the same distance from the lower arm pivot on each side to have exactly the same bump steer. How the threaded part and bellows look at that point is secondary to moot. Now in the real world, you are going to want your steering wheel straight so unless you have you steering shaft splines index cut for YOUR car it's not going to happen. On both the cars I finished and drove neither had any offset worth mentioning. I had the outer tie rods off the spindles, turned the rack to one end, marked the wheel, turned and counted to the other end, turned the rack back to the middle, disconnected the shaft universal, rotated the wheel to straight up and down, reconnected the universal, hooked up the spindles and set the toe. So if the rack is off center, why not center the inner ball joints in relation to the frame/lower control arm pivot axis and center the steering wheel, attach steering U-joint and call it good? Worst case is you have slightly more turning radius on one side vs the other and not parts to fabricate.

[RM1SepEx]

Wayne you are absolutely correct. The bellows just shows us how far the rod is extended externally. All of our measurements are based on the inner ball joint pivot point. (I don't have photos of yours! But the bellows show how much you cheated to the right.) It is off 1/2 inch from center or 1 inch from one side to the other. I have just a whisker over 3 turns lock to lock. I'd need to cheat the rack's position 1/2 inch of travel to make the position of the inner pivots equal. The rack has almost exactly 5 inches of travel, 2.5 inches in each direction of center. So if you set it so those pivots are in the same place relative to the LCA pivot point you have taken 20% of the travel to one side and given it to wheel rotation of the other.

The rotation to travel ratio is 540 degrees (1.5 turns of the steering wheel) / 2.5 inches of rack travel That means that for each inch of rack travel we rotate the wheel 216 degrees. If you "cheat that .5 inch of rack you now have 2 inches of travel to the right and 3 inches of travel to the left.

Right wheel rotation 216 x 2 = 432 degrees or 1.2 wheel rotations
Left Wheel rotation 216 x 3 = 648 degrees or 1.8 wheel rotations

You are also correct that in real,life few occasions occur to use full lock to lock use. However the design is flawed and the engineer in me wants/needs to make it correct. I'd love to see turning radius in each direction... the problem should be obvious if you need to turn around in tight quarters. It would be like my old dog, she found it very hard to turn in her non preferred direction! :-)

It's easy to fix, lengthen the "rack" or move it to the right 1/2 inch. I think lengthening the rack is easier... Factory 5 should move the rack on its jig.

[Wayne Presley]

Before you lengthen the rack, you need to plug in the numbers into a bump steer calculator to see what the optimum width is for the rack.

[RM1SepEx]

optimum would be for the rack's inside tie rod's ball joint center to align with a line through the pivot points. To do that I would need to extend it both ways as it is short in both directions. I just want the bump steer to be the same both ways. If I move the rack 1/2 inch it is the same but higher than if I extend the rack 1 inch to the right...

http://www.longacreracing.com/articles/art.asp?ARTID=13

And I could do the calculations but I shouldn't have too... don't you think Jim and Jesper already did? And isn't it obvious that the relative position of the inner tie rod joint should be the same on both sides of the car? When designed on a CAD system with the output directly used to make parts... from an engineering point of view.

BTW It's genetic and the only point of view that I have! :-) LOL

[wleehendrick]

You are also correct that in real,life few occasions occur to use full lock to lock use.

Well parallel parking in a tight spot is a situation that usually calls for full lock; it's a pretty regular occurrence for those parking in a city. I, however, I don't plan on parallel parking my 818!

Thanks to the explanation Wayne, it'll be good to refer to when I get to that point.

[RM1SepEx]

Anyone have a good trick to drain one of these beasts without getting coolant all over the place?

My radiator drain shoots out the fluid in a stream and then all over the frame as it get's lower. By the engine all you can do is drop the lower radiator hose... I'm not quick enough with the 5 gallon bucket!

My BMW has a spigot with a tube connector...

[RM1SepEx]

good news, it looks like I can get to the timing belt and water pump with the engine in the car... :-) !!!

two of the water pump bolts were less than correctly torqued, one bolt can't be accessed to check w/o doing the timing belt because it's behind an idler gear. I need to chastise my mechanic (I just scolded myself!)

I'm going to put the cover back on and see if it leaks... I think I have good odds. If it leaks, pull off the timing belt and redo the pump with rtv and re-time it

[mikeb75]

you could try loosing the thermostat housing with your drain pan underneath. Can't remember exactly what I did last time I drained mine out, but I remember wearing a bunch of coolant...

[RM1SepEx]

everything I've tried resulted in coolant all over the place! LOL :-)

Going out to put it back together now... will know soon if I need to tear it down farther and re-do the timing belt... It was a challenge when I did it on the engine stand... not enough hands to hold everything in place and the cams want to rotate on you. To do it in position I'll need a couple extra pair of hands...

[Erik W. Treves]

Dan, if memory serves....you should be able to remove the tensioner (reset it) .. put the it back on with the grenade pit and the pull that one idler, then do the pump...you don't have to take the whole belt off...

[RM1SepEx]

The problem is that the engine's valve tension wants to move the belt position and when/if it jumps I have to start over. I don't know where to position it to make that risk go away.. It's hard to keep them all in the correct position.

Just took a break to pack and ship my last piece from my donor exhaust. I sold the 5 pieces and heat shields for $7 less than I paid for my ceramic coated header and catless up pipe... That cross pipe took many months to finally sell! I'm up to $1350 for donor parts sold from my $1850 rollover.

Didn't work, still leaks... I'll try to do it without messing up the timing next! Time for lunch and football in the garage

[Samiam1017]

Dan. I made a tool to hold the drivers cam gears in place. Used a strap from a plumbing fixture with multiple holes in it and put bolts thru it backwards to hold the cams. Ill post a pic. In a few min

[Samiam1017]

2311623117

[Samiam1017]

I don't know what I'm doing with pictures but its a strap from a galvanized 3in pipe. I cut the strap part off and took what appears to be cam cover bolts or valve cover bolts and a nut behind it. Works great for me.

[RM1SepEx]

how did you hold the cams with the straps?

[Samiam1017]

The bolt head goes into the cam gear bolt. I can take my covers off and put it on if it helps visualize it

[Samiam1017]

23124

[RM1SepEx]

The bolt head goes into the cam gear bolt. I can take my covers off and put it on if it helps visualize it

yes please...

[RM1SepEx]

Thank you very much!!!! :-) I'll make one up today!

[Erik W. Treves]

So the trick will be getting those bolts off IN THE CAR.... I can't find that picture of Wayne and the 5 foot bar he used....I would just take the belt and vice-grip it together to keep the cams from turning.

[RM1SepEx]

I don't need to take those bolts off, just hold them in place... When you install the belt the right head's valves are closed so the cams don't try to rotate. The left head does have the valves partially open so you need to rotate both of them (check the online guide by Meaty... very good detail and photos. It was tricky to get them just right when out of the car. Remember I haven't had normal feeling in my hands for about 23 years, so such activities are tough for me. You have to get so many shafts, pulleys, gears in the right place... It's easy to have one just off. When in the car space is at a premium and much more awkward.

Using this fixture should make it a piece of cake. The motor is lined up with the timing makes, paint every notch, mark etc with paint pen, hold left cams in position, remove tensioner and then the gear/idler on the water pump. Move the belt to remove the water pump, figure out why it leaks... reinstall pump and idler, replace pin in tensioner, replace tensioner, pull the pin!

Hard to believe how far we have both came since we met at Factory Five just after SEMA last year, isn't it?

[Erik W. Treves]

Dan, yes it has been a journey for sure. I was hoping to be titled and driving by now, but my wanting for a paint job really put me behind...looks like spring will be really fun though!!

[RM1SepEx]

Many of my delays have been caused by me... Dad's cancer and death, another detached retina and my damn MS related health "issues". Add that to jumping around so much due to back orders and starting with the unknown of a totally destroyed roll over. The journey has been great tho... I'd like to have her done for Carlisle and the open house. Right now I still think white gelcoat with orange vinyl graphics and some matching orange powder coat...

[RM1SepEx]

Great news... I found my water pump problem, my idiot mechanic (me...) damaged the water pump gasket when he installed it... folded a part over so it was doubled up. I'll pickup a new gasket at NAPA tomorrow and should get back on track for go kart this week!

[Mechie3]

You should fire your mechanic. He probably overcharges you too. ;)

[RM1SepEx]

You should fire your mechanic. He probably overcharges you too. ;)

he works cheap, I just had that "lucky we don't charge by the hr" discussion last week when going over the 50 pages of wiring diagrams and your wiring posts to find the clutch switch that I missed. That delayed my first start by about 3 weeks! (He doesn't like the wiring issues and kept finding excuses to not look into it!) not sure if it wasn't plugged in on my donor (donor wouldn't crank either) or my mechanic's use of tape to mark wires caused it to be damaged/removed. He just keeps causing me more work! :-)

He eats far too much pizza as well

[RM1SepEx]

She's alive again and no sweet sticky mess on the garage floor! Thanks Samiom1017... the fixture made it much easier to get the belt/pulleys lined up while the engine was still in the car.

We did learn that a timing belt can be done in the car.

Now to focus on the stuff that needs to be done to go kart her in the next couple days!

[Mechie3]

Vroom Vroom!

[AZPete]

Congrats! You know we need a video to believe you, don't you?

[RM1SepEx]

Congrats! You know we need a video to believe you, don't you?

the first start one above needs to be replicated? I know it sucks and I forgot to remove the Go Pro from the sealed plastic case... but that's how I always use it when I drive my 2 stroke kart!

post 429 on prev page http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxjcO...ature=youtu.be

new one from today! http://youtu.be/nGG2yl7MFd0

[AZPete]

Okay, Dan, I went back and played the video. I believe you now. :)

[Zodiac]

congrats man. i plan to go kart mine a bit myself once i get it going to make sure there's no rattling or anything. and of course just driving around the block with no body does have a little cool factor if i do say so myself lol. Any plans as far as paint or vinyl the car or do you plan to go just plain?

[VD2021]

Dan,

Congrats on the milestone:cool:.

Way to come back on" take 2":).

[longislandwrx]

sounds beastly. nice work.

[RM1SepEx]

I really don't like white but I'm going to start with buffed gel coat and orange vinyl.

I'm trying to baseline a "stock" donor build. Stock seats, only a header and the supplied exhaust adaptors. I PCed the stock 16 in wheels and lasered the factory 5 logo on the custom aluminum centers.

I'll be buying a Cobb Accessport this week and eventually do a TGV delete and 3 inch exhaust with Cat and muffler.

Right now it only has the adaptor from the kit, the stock downpipe with cat.

I'm very pleased at how "easy" the stock wiring edits were... it looks intimidating but once you strip the covering off, its easy to delete a ton of wires etc...

Just got to keep plugging away at it!

It is hunting season tho so I'll take some time to try to shoot Bambi!

[wleehendrick]

I really don't like white but I'm going to start with buffed gel coat and orange vinyl.

Mmmm... tasty color combination!

23185

[wallace18]

Congrats on the start up. Sounds good!

[RM1SepEx]

Mmmm... tasty color combination!

23185

Big time color blind... just love bright colors, orange is my favorite.

I'm working with Powder by the Pound to color match vinyl and powder. It will take some time to figure out how to use orange accents with the white body, carbon fiber mirrors, splitter, side extensions, rear spoiler etc...

I'll try the same on the interior... still waiting for a reply from leather seats.com for black seats and orange accents with either the F5 logo or some other graphic on the seats

[K3LAG]

Big time color blind... just love bright colors, orange is my favorite.

I'm working with Powder by the Pound to color match vinyl and powder. It will take some time to figure out how to use orange accents with the white body, carbon fiber mirrors, splitter, side extensions, rear spoiler etc...

I'll try the same on the interior... still waiting for a reply from leather seats.com for black seats and orange accents with either the F5 logo or some other graphic on the seats

Sounds like our cars might almost be twins when we are finished. Let me know how you turn out on color matching stuff. I do have one extra variable in that I'm using Orange OZ Alleggerita wheels, so I'm going to try to match them as much as I can.

I'm also thinking about doing black and orange leather from leatherseats.com, if you do that, let me know your pattern and I'll make sure mine is a bit different. There is still a chance I may go with aftermarket seats though. Depends on driver comfort as we have two different height drivers to deal with.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Dan,
Great job getting it running. Your getting ahead of me.
Can't wait to see you go karting.
Bob

[longislandwrx]

Dan,

there was a ground strap included in the fuel system component box, I can't find it referenced in any of the instructions. Any idea what its used for?

my guess is to ground the filler cap to the frame, since it's isolated with the rubber tube and the fiberglass body but the ring terminals are very large.

Thanks

[RM1SepEx]

You mean than thin little one? No idea what it is for ask Chris, Erik or Wayne as they are all ahead of me... Ask a FFR tech perhaps? That would make sense to avoid a fueling explosion, do they do that on their other cars???

[wallace18]

The small strap is for the filler cap. It grounds it to the frame for fill ups. It is part of all FFR kits .

[RM1SepEx]

thanks, nothing in the build manual, leaving questions for us newbies!

[VD2021]

The small strap is for the filler cap. It grounds it to the frame for fill ups. It is part of all FFR kits .

Except GTMs.

.....Haven't heard of any issues....now wondering if I should add a set.

[wallace18]

Except GTMs.

.....Haven't heard of any issues....now wondering if I should add a set.

I am sure it could not hurt.

[longislandwrx]

The steel fill tube then should probably be grounded too then, just tuck another braid under one of the rubber hoses.

[RM1SepEx]

I don't think so. The issue is a spark upon filling, just like how you don't fill the plastic fuel container when it sits on your truck's bed. You get a gnd from the nozzle to the fuel cap assembly, the hose doesn't matter.

[longislandwrx]

Just looked at how narrow the fill hole was, I was thinking you could miss the cap but that looks difficult considering the diameter.

[RM1SepEx]

So, rather than a quick jump in and go kart I want to button stuff up better.

I mounted the fusebox just over the fuel tank behind the rear firewall. I want to add a thin piece of .030 aluminum as a rear cover to the engine compartment and make several pieces, making removal of some of them easy by using riv nuts. Thoughts?

23229

23230

I'm also concerned with the slots that they leave in the cockpit in front of the rear firewall. What are people doing to seal off the interior?

23228

[AZPete]

Dan, I'm working on the same panels because it will be a good place to hide wiring and also clean up the engine compartment. Now the top panel for the rear of the rear firewall is out being bent 90 degrees at the bottom so I can install it with rivnuts from the gas tank side, hence be able to remove it. The top of that panel will have rivnuts on the engine side - easily reached. I'm using .040 aluminum (16 x 50 finished size) but it's a large span with no rivets into the frame in the middle so I'm worried about flexing and noise so I plan on filling the space with a stiff foam to prevent vibration. I'll post photos when I've got it powder coated and installed.

Re the gaps below the gas tank, I'm guessing that it's good to have some place for gas to drain out in case there's a tank leak. A pool of gas could make for a memorable day.

[RM1SepEx]

Since my engine is already installed I'm going to use smaller, separate pieces for the engine compartment wall. I need to make sure that fuse box access is available, perhaps a smaller panel/cover?

Those slots are open to the interior of the car! road noise water etc...

[RM1SepEx]

I removed the angled bar in front of the driver's seat, sliders will be in place soon.

So next issue:

Hooked up my throttle, the pedal is mounted as described in the manual... I did shorten the pedal rod to move it off the floor and bent it to be closer to the distance from the firewall to that of the clutch and brake

1 the ball won't fit through the 1/4 hole, needs to get to about 5/16
2 the split double nut is a horror story/nightmare to try to use in practice
3 I added a fender washer with a slit in it to reinforce the aluminum firewall panel
4 the ball is too small for the pedal's hole too, had to add another washer with a slit in it. RTV to hold it in place perhaps?
5 the firewall flexes all over the place when you depress the throttle
6 even with all of the slack taken out of the cable, it can't return to idle

What did other's do????

Shifter next

[wallace18]

I removed the angled bar in front of the driver's seat, sliders will be in place soon.

So next issue:

Hooked up my throttle, the pedal is mounted as described in the manual... I did shorten the pedal rod to move it off the floor and bent it to be closer to the distance from the firewall to that of the clutch and brake

1 the ball won't fit through the 1/4 hole, needs to get to about 5/16
2 the split double nut is a horror story/nightmare to try to use in practice
3 I added a fender washer with a slit in it to reinforce the aluminum firewall panel
4 the ball is too small for the pedal's hole too, had to add another washer with a slit in it. RTV to hold it in place perhaps?
5 the firewall flexes all over the place when you depress the throttle
6 even with all of the slack taken out of the cable, it can't return to idle

What did other's do????

Shifter next

Dan look at my thread what I did with the throttle cable.

[metalmaker12]

I will have to take a video this weekend to show you what I have done, but I got 900- 1000 rpm idle. I have a dirty iac and need to clean it up and put a new gasket, but once warm is idling perfect.

[RM1SepEx]

Mine will idle fine w/o hooking up the throttle cable, the problem is the throttle cable doesn't have enough cable outside of the sheathing for the distance from the firewall to the pedal and the intake around the throttle cam on the other end.

The pedal assembly is too flimsy too...

[metalmaker12]

The cable has just enough length

[RM1SepEx]

Tom, post 97?

Where did you mount the top of the pedal bracket? I see that both of the lower holes go through the firewall vs only the bottom one

[RM1SepEx]

The cable has just enough length

is the top of your pedal assy on the tube as shown in the maual? Mine is and from the firewall to the pedal is too far. I think Tom bolted his directly to the firewall

[wallace18]

is the top of your pedal assy on the tube as shown in the maual? Mine is and from the firewall to the pedal is too far. I think Tom bolted his directly to the firewall

You are correct. This gave me plenty of cable length. IMO the FFR pedal brkt is junk. I did not use it. There is no real reason to use it IMO. I have no firewall flex and plenty of cable.

[RM1SepEx]

I'll be warming up the garage and playing with mine this morning. Did you use the weird split double nut on the cable ferule?

Works much better w/o the bracket, too bad I modified my pedal position with the bracket... now I need to readjust the position.

just about done working on the shifter now... I think I want it 3 inches shorter!