RM1Sepex Build Thread

[Hindsight]

Hey Dan, another shifter question for you.

I'm trying to decide between solid rod ends or ball joint rod ends. I know you went with balljoint and Bob I think went with basically solid (clevis anyway). I like the balljoint idea from a precision standpoint but know that when new, they can be quite tight. I would be concerned that their tightness would increase shifter effort. Have you noticed that at all?

[FFRSpec72]

Love the use of the ACE paint stir sticks

[RM1SepEx]

Hey Dan, another shifter question for you.

I'm trying to decide between solid rod ends or ball joint rod ends. I know you went with balljoint and Bob I think went with basically solid (clevis anyway). I like the balljoint idea from a precision standpoint but know that when new, they can be quite tight. I would be concerned that their tightness would increase shifter effort. Have you noticed that at all?

I actually prefer std rod ends, the ball joint ones from FFR are very sloppy compared to my EBay 1/4 - 28 female rod ends...

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks for the update Dan.
I've been doing multiple adjustments as you say for a couple weeks now, a bit at a time, then completely starting over in frustration.
However, its getting better.
I'm a mechanical engineer and I want it to look good, balanced, clean lines, and neat details - so I'm willing to spend a bit more time.

What do you think about cutting the front center of the bumper and re-fiberglassing it 1/4 to 3/8 wider? You won't even notice it when its done, and it will have the right gaps at the front. I haven't decided yet, but its an option at this point.

Aloha818 is a ref for cutting the nose... I'm trying to do no paint, makes everything trickier! I don't think I need to do it but the space there will appear tighter. Our backgrounds dictate that we are willing to work at it longer than most.

I installed my two locking pins at the back of the hood today and I'm working on the front hinges. I have to "tweak" the aluminum angles that I'm bonding to the underside of the hood. I got about 4-5 of those Ace paint sticks and I've cut them into dozens of short pieces, they are stuck all over the car to attempt to hold the gaps while a myriad of devices hold panels in place... I'm still using clecos, duct tape, gallon jugs, screws... you name it. I've found a way to hold something in place with it.

I can't believe how many people have engine covers that actually fit over the roll bar and sit flat on the sides. My cover is so tight on the roll bar and the ears of the engine cover twist severely... That's my next area to resolve. I'm going to mount my 2 inch AL angle under the flat portion of the side panels behind the door and come in from the sides to hold the engine cover down. Aloha818 did the same from the front (door edge) ages ago. I was actually there about the same time, before I swapped body panels, cost me quite a bit of time but these panels should look OK as no paint. It was worth the delay.

[Hindsight]

I actually prefer std rod ends, the ball joint ones from FFR are very sloppy compared to my EBay 1/4 - 28 female rod ends...

Oh sorry, when I said solid rod ends I was referring to: 40327

And by ball joint I meant heim joints like this instead of the ball-stud things FFR uses: 40328

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Dan, another shifter question for you.

I'm trying to decide between solid rod ends or ball joint rod ends. I know you went with balljoint and Bob I think went with basically solid (clevis anyway). I like the balljoint idea from a precision standpoint but know that when new, they can be quite tight. I would be concerned that their tightness would increase shifter effort. Have you noticed that at all?

Hindsight,
I went with the solid clevis type mostly for lack of space reason. As I recessed the shifter into my tunnel, there was not enough width to use the bearing type heim joints. The heim joint are better for less backlash.

I also had trouble finding 1/4-28 heim joints with 10mm shaft.
Bob

.

[Hindsight]

Thanks Bob, I have been following your shifter install as well. I plan on cutting out the 10mm shaft and drilling my own hole of whatever size I want. I'm just concerned about the bearing heim joints adding drag to the shifting feel. I know they loosen up over time but when new those things can be pretty tight.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Thanks Bob, I have been following your shifter install as well. I plan on cutting out the 10mm shaft and drilling my own hole of whatever size I want. I'm just concerned about the bearing heim joints adding drag to the shifting feel. I know they loosen up over time but when new those things can be pretty tight.
Don't worry about any tightness. With the mechanical advantage you have, You will not notice any tightness.
Bob

[Hindsight]

Great, that's exactly what I needed to know thank you!

[RM1SepEx]

Made some great progress today on the hood. Had snow this AM so I had to fire up the propane to heat the garage to cure the fiberglass

Check out my hinges and the final gaps... I also got the new louvers from Craig! I'll bend them up and powder coat them orange next week. Next, figuring out how to hold the engine cover down.. I'm planning on utilizing my 2 x 2 x 1/8 aluminum angle yet again. Bolt it under the flat shelf at the rear of the doors from the side. A couple screws will come in from the inside of the car to hold the engine cover "ear" in place.

[Hindsight]

Looking good! I didn't know Craig was selling the large louvers yet! Or did you just get a prototype?

[RM1SepEx]

I've been "working" with Craig since the kits first arrived. This louver design was requested by me after getting his original louvers and feeling that they were an improvement but not big enough. I do think that this is the first complete set! Thanks Craig!

I'm hoping he starts selling the side mount AAIC kit based on my design... much simpler than the AWIC. If you clock the turbo and flip the intake it get's really simple. Even the original way like mine doesn't have too much tubing tho I would use 2 inch in future applications. I should have some dyno results in May.

[Hindsight]

I hope a2a works. The awic setup i cobbled together for my 818 which is basically the same as everyone else is using weighs 32lbs. Thats dry.

[RM1SepEx]

The air to air will work fine, I need a scoop to allow the air to flow through, the minute you start pulling air through with a fan it creates a low pressure area. Now I need the CF scoop Craig! (I know he is having vendor issues) I want to develop an oil cooler for the scoop on the other side.

[AZPete]

Dan, very nice work on the hood, as usual. The front is even and flush! Do your hood hinges work well? If so, could you give some specs so I can copy, or are those hinges prototypes for Craig to make? I'd rather Craig make them so I don't have to measure, saw, drill, and bend, and again for the other side . . . plus blood, band-aids & cussing. Snow, really? It's April!

[Mechie3]

Dan has the only complete set of louvers. I just have one. Lol. They're at the shop getting quoted. That's fans hinge design he emailed me. I have a stylized version in Cad in my thread .

[RM1SepEx]

The hinge isn't a production type piece but what is on an FFR car? The hood is about as stiff as a won ton wrapper before my wife folds it up around the filling!. It rotates fine, I have to wiggle the hood into place. I then go up to the hood ends to seat it with my locking hood pins. I've found it to be about the same as the trunk hinges (I'm using Craig's there too)

I'd use Craig's in the front too but I can't expect him to do all my stuff first! I love the new louvers, I bent them up last night and they will look awesome. It's so much fun working the proto stuff with a capable designer and a machine shop. Brings me back to my first job out of college as a process engineer implementing custom mfg machines and processes. Back then I only had to walk across the parking lot to the basement design group and machine shop. Now we do it over 1000 miles using cell phone and internet photos, text messages etc...

No HS graduation this year hopefully I'll get my car to the open house and everyone can see Craig's stuff in use...

Headache, kids home from college and a trip to Rochester to watch my son's last acapella event! I don't expect and progress until next week.

[Hindsight]

One thing that could be done to add stiffness to the hood without adding hardly any weight would be to epoxy some balsawood spars to it. I believe that's what they did on the Porsche 914-6. I may give it a try on mine.

[RM1SepEx]

Craig and I have discussed this as well. I can't do that until I figure out where everything else fits. We have a bunch of aluminum pieces in the front. I wish that we had a thin curved piece for the front inner fenders...

[RM1SepEx]

Hood hinge done, added studs for an expanded AL grill... oops not enough clearance to make me happy and too flimsy under airflow at speed... rev 2 tomorrow?

40638 40639 40640

When you flip the hood up the grill barely clears the nose. I'm afraid that if bent it will damage the finish. I'm thinking that I can mount it to the nose on the bottom of the grill with a spring loaded hinge. When the hood is opened the hinge brackets will force the grill forward. I'll keep my fingers crossed.

iWire harness due back Friday... more areas to work on this weekend! :)

I'm working the doors next to get the body alignment correct on the "ears" of the engine cover.

[wallace18]

Looking good Dan!

[RM1SepEx]

You set a pretty high std Tom! ;)

[RM1SepEx]

A gratuitous plug for Craig, the new lovers look great! I have to apologize for the poor placement, it's hard to hold them in place temporarily for a photo when you are alone... They sit up very nicely in the opened holes and fit very well.

You can see the extra material that I had to remove. I did the first one a bit small then measured the finished hole to cut the second one first try. My foam under the hood and on top of the radiator barely holds them in place, their final position is higher in the opening. put a straight edge across the embossed opening, the short side is 8 inches, the long one is 11 3/4

Great job Craig! Anyone want a set that fits the original hole? I'll be sending mine back to Craig so they are available.

[Tamra]

Those look great!

[Mechie3]

Nice work Dan. :) I need to finish making my set so I can install my own. lol

[Frank818]

They look good!

But your no-gap and perfect fitting of the front of the hood wrt to the bumper really makes me drool.

[RM1SepEx]

Just takes time and patience Frank... beer and discussions with fellow engineers on strategy always helps too!

I got most of the wiring back in today. The iWire harness is so clean vs the clusterF*** that existed with the chopped up WRX mess! I'll need to shorten a few wires but it is so damn clean. Thanks Brian, I went from a tangled mess in the tunnel to to power wires down the driver's side and a 1 inch bundle down the other, that's it!

After hearing about Andrew and Tamra's fuel problems I'm going to start investigating a fuel cell.

Fingers crossed, re-start tomorrow???

[RM1SepEx]

Need some help/verification

My side panels are as far back as the latch brackets allow, my front end has come together very nicely.

I'm having problems at the roll bars as many have and I will not chop into the panels to make it fit!

I've made some easy to compare measurements using a square. My square has a side with cm on both edges so I can measure both sides the same way.

Putting my square on the edge of the square roll bar support tube on the right side I get 8 CM and on the left I get 8.5 CM to the body panel seam. This isn't something that is easily changed. The panel is clamped to the side of the frame a few inches away by the aluminum trim at the edge of the door opening.

If I put the end of the square's ruler vs the body panel seam where the support for the trunk hinges are I have 9.2 CM on both sides, my panels are square and I get good seams.

Can someone verify their measurements please...


40792 40793 40794 40795 40796


The only way that I can get straight seams is to twist the "ears" of the engine cover around the roll bars.

[RM1SepEx]

Close to firing her back up, I just came to a rather interesting observation. I want to add an aluminum panel over the rack up that frame box so that the airflow is up through the large hood louver. Once I do that and install my hinged hood, there is no way that I'll be able to reach the battery!

[Tamra]

Definitely going to keep tabs on your thread when we start on the body soon... doesn't look like too much fun! Thanks for documenting everything so well.

Any plans for autocross with your 818 this year?

[C.Plavan]

One thing that could be done to add stiffness to the hood without adding hardly any weight would be to epoxy some balsawood spars to it. I believe that's what they did on the Porsche 914-6. I may give it a try on mine.

That will work, or use a thin aluminum flat piece.

[RM1SepEx]

Definitely going to keep tabs on your thread when we start on the body soon... doesn't look like too much fun! Thanks for documenting everything so well.

Any plans for autocross with your 818 this year?

yes... question is when. It is amazing how many different paths we take to complete these little beasties... When people started blowing them up I turned my build direction upside down. I'm hoping it will be in some sort of shape to be trailered down to the open house in June.

I've become addicted to the raw speed and visceral nature of racing the shifter kart vs a car. Imagine buying tires for 216 a set delivered to your door and installed using some simple manual fixtures and tools. I'm planning on a couple trips to do some road racing (20 minutes races) in the kart(s) this summer. (I have 2 of the Rotax DD2 powered karts)

My 818S is primarily a street car tho our club seems to be adding EM cars rapidly as we just picked up an electric Cobra, a V6 powered stalker and one of my best friends has a 240HP Zetec powered Caterham that has to run in AM due to weight.

[Harley818]

Need some help/verification

My side panels are as far back as the latch brackets allow, my front end has come together very nicely.

I'm having problems at the roll bars as many have and I will not chop into the panels to make it fit!

I've made some easy to compare measurements using a square. My square has a side with cm on both edges so I can measure both sides the same way.

Putting my square on the edge of the square roll bar support tube on the right side I get 8 CM and on the left I get 8.5 CM to the body panel seam. This isn't something that is easily changed. The panel is clamped to the side of the frame a few inches away by the aluminum trim at the edge of the door opening.

If I put the end of the square's ruler vs the body panel seam where the support for the trunk hinges are I have 9.2 CM on both sides, my panels are square and I get good seams.

Can someone verify their measurements please...


40792 40793 40794 40795 40796


The only way that I can get straight seams is to twist the "ears" of the engine cover around the roll bars.


Dan, I'm not sure this is going to help but I have the opposite.
I have it roughed in position and I'm pretty happy with the fit.
Driver side is 8.3cm at the roll bar, 8.7 on the passenger side. I cant move the panels in any more as they are in as far as possible and fiberglass is right up to the frame where the aluminum trim goes.
In the rear by the trunk hinges, i have 9.7 on the right side and 9.0 on the left side. Distance at the wheelwells to the center of the top shock bolt are equal at 13.75 in
I'm planning on doing more work tomorrow, so I'll let you know how it works out.

[RM1SepEx]

Harley, can you shoot me a photo of those two areas w/o the engine cover installed? I'm sure that since those body seams are not straight the front to rear position is key. I just read that your body sides are much farther forward than mine, you must have had to make a bracket to extend quite a ways to attach the nose to the radiator support frame in the front!

[Harley818]

Hi Dan,

Just had a successful weekend getting everything aligned. I basically started over but I'm happy with the result.
After I posted, Bob pointed out that the 5/8 measurement is taken with the front tab trimmed off. I missed that in the manual (and I might leave mine in to secure to the front frame).
I re-measured, and I'm actually at 7/8 to 1 inch from the front. lol.
My front bumper is touching the steel support tube in behind.
Check out my thread. I posted about 30 pics of the whole process in post #171 - 175
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14763-Harley-s-818S&p=196343#post196343


Turns out I measured at the rear crossbar. 9.4 mm on the passenger side from the welded tab to the inside edge of the fiberglass ridge. 9.3 mm on the drivers side.
Clearance at the rollbar both sides is zero. Fiberglass is touching the rollbar, but doesn't need to be trimmed.

Now that I'm done, let me know what you want pictures of and I'll post them.

[Mechie3]

I did the same thing you did when measuring and am about the same distance back and just clear the roll bar.

[RM1SepEx]

Good news, my problems shifting into second gear.... gummed up synchros from sitting after they installed the Quaife and checked it out. All back together and ready to install AFTER I return from my son's college graduation! WHOOO HOOO only one child in college now! Long trip to Rochester starts in a few minutes.

[305mouse]

Which school? Craig and I are both from Rochester, NY

[Jaime]

I'm currently less than an hour from Rochester, NY. My cousin went to RIT.

[wleehendrick]

I did my undergrad at U of R... moved to San Diego for grad school and stayed on the left coast ever since!

[RM1SepEx]

RIT Biomedical engineering degree with a music minor

[wleehendrick]

RIT Biomedical engineering degree with a music minor

A true Renaissance man!

[RM1SepEx]

Been busy, reinstalled the transaxle, works great now.

Revised the shifter a bit and added the battery tray. I have some more powder coating to do.

Started the motor, engine knock. UGH... dropping pan next, hopefully its just a slight interference with the new STI windage tray that I installed.

42290 42291 42292

42293 42294 42295

[Pearldrummer7]

Man that linkage looks amazing.

[matteo92065]

nice work.

[AZPete]

Good job on the linkage. Da, I know what you went through to get this worked out and the result is beautiful and will help others.

[RM1SepEx]

Too bad my engine is now toast... pulled the pan this evening... the bad noise is rod knock

Always a crap shoot when you start with an $1850 rolled over donor

Now do I buy JDM or a short block? And even then what will I find when I pull the heads off?

I guess I won't be at the open house...

[RM1SepEx]

Man that linkage looks amazing.

the stock cable routing and quality are horrible, the stock plastic shifter flexes, the ball stud ends are sloppy...

Lowest cost reverse cable option by far, stock FFR shift bracket chopped up and modified, one 3/8 OD, 1/4 ID bushing from ACE, 1/2 aluminum for the bell crank, 1/4 inch rod ends off EBay, FFR shift arm, reversed and welded to avoid hitting the rear vent screen, 2 x 2 x 1/8 aluminum angle for cable bracket, cable clamps from McMaster, MR2 shifter (I did replace the base plate but if you use bulkhead cables it can be re-used) new 7 foot teleflex cables (absolutely NO PLAY)

If you use the stock plate I'd use these http://www.boatersland.com/telccx43006.html the 6 footers would run better, just add the 4-5 inches in a short aluminum tube spacer vs the slight hump needed under the intake with the 7 footers I used. Mine clamp on both ends http://www.boatersland.com/telccx43307.html , running it on top of the block would be a cleaner install

Everything done with a bandsaw, drill press and hand tools

Very short throw and almost as smooth as my Miata(s)

[Hindsight]

Oh no! Very sorry to hear about the engine.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Nice work on the shifter Dan.
Bob

[Harley818]

Dan, you are a bad man!
You did such a great job on that shifter that now I am going to have to re-do work!!!!!

However, it solves part of the problem I have with my dual exhaust routing interfering with the shifter cable, and it sounds like much better shift feel.

OK, another thing to do.....

What year shifter do i need to look for from an MR2?
I will be routing my shift lines around the drivers side from the fuel tank area. Will the 7 footers reach or do I need longer?

nice work.....

[RM1SepEx]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-1989-Toyota-MR2-5-Speed-Shift-Lever-Assembly-Shifter-4AGE-4AGZE-/121663374105?fits=Year%3A1985%7CModel%3AMR2&hash=item1c53b3c319&vxp=mtr

that is where mine are run, see photos above, my sevens are a bit long, 6's would be a bit short, just run some fuel line where you want them to go. See the links above and you can view the engineering drawings for the lengths. IIRC the stock cables are 17 feet long!

[bstuke]

Awesome ingenuity on the shifter Dan, sorry to hear about the motor. I am still knocking on wood on my 07 rollover engine...

[Tamra]

Too bad my engine is now toast... pulled the pan this evening... the bad noise is rod knock

Always a crap shoot when you start with an $1850 rolled over donor

Now do I buy JDM or a short block? And even then what will I find when I pull the heads off?

I guess I won't be at the open house...

So sorry to hear that, Dan. Have you considered rebuilding the one you have? Or would you prefer to buy another new/used one?

I found an EJ207 on CL that includes a lot of things you wouldn't need, including the transmission, axles, and differential. Price seems kind of high but maybe they'd sell the engine alone: http://nh.craigslist.org/ptd/4976657876.html

Drop in used replacement for $1100:
http://nh.craigslist.org/pts/5016645826.html

Or if you wanted brand new, looks like it could be had for about $3k. Just shy of $2k for the short block from Rallysport: http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Subaru-OEM-10103AC050-2-5L-EJ257B-Short-Block
and about $1000 for the heads direct from Subaru http://parts.northreadingsubaru.com/p/subaru_2004_sti25l-turbo-6mt-4wdsedan/BLOCK-SET-CYLINDER/49223185/11008AA930.html


Still a bummer though that you're looking at around the cost of your entire donor just to replace your engine :(

[RM1SepEx]

Not much different than your motor Tamra... used stuff is a crap shoot. I knew it was a risk from day one.

I don't want to do an engine project and my Subaru friends don't have good rebuilding history on these motors.
I figure $2200 to do a new Subaru short block and gaskets etc...
I can do a JDM with 55K for 1700 or so and transfer my new parts to it and recover some cash by selling off aux. parts I don't need bank extra parts like a turbo etc... I'm not looking for your HP numbers, I prefer to autox my DD2 125 kart

Years ago I had a V6 Fiero motor rebuilt locally with 3 year 36,000 warrantee... I'll see if they will do a wrx turbo as well. Answers and a strategy early next week.

At least I was able to get the old JD tractor up and running again this AM...

Tamra, did you add an oil cooler, I want to add one behind the driver's side vent behind the door.

[Hindsight]

I would do the new oem shortblock as well. Good value and they are known for longevity.

[AZPete]

Oh crap! I'm sorry to hear of your engine problems, Dan, but with your experience and skills I'm sure you'll clear this hurdle soon.

[xxguitarist]

Tamra, did you add an oil cooler, I want to add one behind the driver's side vent behind the door.

We just have a fresh OEM cooler, we don't have plans for tracking, so with road use & auto-x it should be adequate. One's not too high stress, the other has rest periods and short duration.

[RM1SepEx]

We just have a fresh OEM cooler, we don't have plans for tracking, so with road use & auto-x it should be adequate. One's not too high stress, the other has rest periods and short duration.

I just see a side vent w/o a purpose...

[RM1SepEx]

Oh crap! I'm sorry to hear of your engine problems, Dan, but with your experience and skills I'm sure you'll clear this hurdle soon.

I think that it is more related to my wallet! LOL, I just sprung for a 10KW Grid Tied solar panel system Friday, my credit card is a bit stretched!

[RM1SepEx]

So I'm looking for inputs:

I can get it rebuilt, stock, new crank, rings, head all redone etc... total job 4 yr, 40,000 warranty, $3195

I can buy JDM less than 60,000 miles, about $1500 to my door, then swap a ton of stuff from mine to it. I would have a bunch of parts to recoup the cost. BUT I would have another used, unknown motor

I can buy a new short block and check out and recondition my heads, cost should be under $3000 AND I can jump to a 2.5 short block for the same cost.

So... I'm working on the new shortblock route, 2.5 bottom end with the 2.0 heads. I have a Cobb Accessport for tuning and programming, I'm going to do a TGV delete while it is apart.

Question, will I need to go to bigger injectors if I keep my tuning level reasonable???

Are diff pistons or head work mandatory?

[xxguitarist]

Dan,
A stock 2.5 block with stock 2.0 heads puts you at a pretty iffy (high) compression ratio. Aftermarket pistons are available to reduce this compression ratio, or you can have the 2.0 heads machined out to match the volume of the 2.5 heads.

Injectors : HP is a pretty well doccumented thing, what would your power goals be?

What are the terms on the 4 year 40k warranty? That'd be pretty tempting to me if it covered parts & labor should something go south, and allowed racing. Better yet if they'd be willing to install a few upgraded parts along the way.

[metros]

If it was me, I'd be going for the new 2.5 block to ensure reliability. After going through getting 'the whammy' once with a bad untested motor, I wouldn't want to go through that again.

Best of luck with it though. That's a difficult situation to be in after the complete build.

[RM1SepEx]

Racing is verboten of course it's pretty easy to determine the proper volume for a 8.5 to 1 CR.

I may just take the easy route and stick with stock displacement

[Hindsight]

Stock injectors are fine on a stock turbo, even with the boost turned up. Pistons... Some people say different things but the general consesus seems to be stock pistons are ok on a quality tune on the stock turbo but if you go with a bigger turbo, it's wise to upgrade.

[svanlare]

Oh man, that sucks about the motor. Actually one of the things I'm worried about with mine as I got a donor "kit" that I have never saw as a donor, nor saw it run before I got it. Hard choice on what to do next. On my race team we have had much better success with JDM motors vs. the rebuilds we did. I should point out the emphasis on "we did". A new motor with a warrentee would be very nice.

On the other side, nice job on the shifter. I went K-tuned because I was convinced having cables going back to the engine was WAY better than the original setup and I wasn't sure I had the skill to design something. You did a great job with your setup.

[RM1SepEx]

Been trying to figure out if I can get headwork done in a short amt of time... I've wallowed through Nasoic and think that I've found my answer but I'm not sure:

Using the 2.0 head on the 2.5 short block results in high compression and a shelf that is a heat concern. So the stock 2.0 heads cc at 49 CC, It looks like matching the outer edge of the bore where the shelf exists and increasing the head cc to 57cc solves the issue. I sure as hell don't want to replace pistons on a brand new Subaru short block.

42416

For the Subaru experts out there, is my reasoning and CC number sound?

[STiPWRD]

That is a tough decision about the engine. I went with the 2.5 block (new) and 2.0 heads (rebuilt) with swapped out pistons (JE 291059) to reduce the compression ratio back down.

Pros: Basically a brand new motor, I have control over the build quality, higher torque, more power potential

Cons: Learning curve (first time building engine), need new gaskets, oil pump, water pump etc (hidden costs), more labor/time to accomplish than buying complete engine

[longislandwrx]

You will get people saying you need it, and you will get people saying you don't. My friend had a thick gasket hybrid and it made great power, tuner (MSPT) was happy with the build. Another friend had machine work done and was also happy... builds were too different to compare, machine work will in most cases let you run more timing...

http://www.builtej.com/product.php?productid=190000389

the cometic...051 is not crazy thick, and is usually the std on a hybrid build... well known players in subieland use .070 gaskets... I don't know anyone who has used a .095 but its available.
the cosworth 1.5mm, or .059ish? is also popular.

that being said.

If you have time, I think I would get it done. equilibrium does it for a very reasonable price, not sure what their lead time is though.

[Tamra]

Been trying to figure out if I can get headwork done in a short amt of time... I've wallowed through Nasoic and think that I've found my answer but I'm not sure:

Using the 2.0 head on the 2.5 short block results in high compression and a shelf that is a heat concern. So the stock 2.0 heads cc at 49 CC, It looks like matching the outer edge of the bore where the shelf exists and increasing the head cc to 57cc solves the issue. I sure as hell don't want to replace pistons on a brand new Subaru short block.

42416

For the Subaru experts out there, is my reasoning and CC number sound?

That's what we did. Our 2.0 heads were machined to match the 257 block and get us the right compression ratio. We used Larry's Machine Shop in Groton, CT, and they were extremely knowledgeable. We paid about $1200 for machining and decking the heads, boring the block, honing with a torque plate, and decked. We also had our crankshaft, flywheel, and pressure plate balanced.

[305mouse]

Pull the heads and see if you have the little cracks around the spark plug hole. Pretty common on the 2.0 heads.

[RM1SepEx]

I'm tired of "issues" so I decided to go straight 2.0 build with a brand new Subaru short block, it will be here tomorrow. No machine shop knowledgeable, local and fast and delays are absolutely KILLING me. Mounting the body twice is a bear...

The engine is out, I'm going to do a TGV delete and powder coat the intake pieces. I can not believe how many tubes, hoses etc there are on this motor! Thank God my motor is being done with help from a friend who is service manager for a local Subaru dealership. He just did a stock 2.0 short block swap last weekend on his bug eye DD and his rally car has a hybrid with forged JE pistons.

The heads will be off in another day or two... fingers crossed.

Andrew, never answered your other question, I only want 240 RWHP so a stage 2 Cobb tune should get me close...

[wallace18]

I'm tired of "issues" so I decided to go straight 2.0 build with a brand new Subaru short block, it will be here tomorrow. No machine shop knowledgeable, local and fast and delays are absolutely KILLING me. Mounting the body twice is a bear...

The engine is out, I'm going to do a TGV delete and powder coat the intake pieces. I can not believe how many tubes, hoses etc there are on this motor! Thank God my motor is being done with help from a friend who is service manager for a local Subaru dealership. He just did a stock 2.0 short block swap last weekend on his bug eye DD and his rally car has a hybrid with forged JE pistons.

The heads will be off in another day or two... fingers crossed.

Andrew, never answered your other question, I only want 240 RWHP so a stage 2 Cobb tune should get me close...

Should be easy to obtain Dan. The K818S was stock 2.0 88K miles with only a low restriction intake air cleaner and catless exhaust after the turbo. 227RWHP after a tune.

[Frank818]

Bad news on the shot engine, sorry. It really seems the 818 pushes the engines hard, we all need something reliable.

[xxguitarist]

I think stock injectors should be fine for that, but be careful with a Cobb OTS tune- the exhaust is very short, resulting in a bit less back-pressure.

You said short block, seems like a safe happy option, check your heads for flatness the best you can, and inspect around the spark plug hole for the 2.0 crack. If you suspect that it spun a rod bearing for the knock, consider replacing the oil "cooler" It's a maze, and if there are bits of bearing, they could be stuck in it.

While you're at it, any plans to do oil pickup/pan improvements? Not sure if you already have.

Also, sure you know, but keep the valve shims/buckets associated with the correct valve when you disassemble!

[C.Plavan]

I think stock injectors should be fine for that, but be careful with a Cobb OTS tune- the exhaust is very short, resulting in a bit less back-pressure.

You said short block, seems like a safe happy option, check your heads for flatness the best you can, and inspect around the spark plug hole for the 2.0 crack. If you suspect that it spun a rod bearing for the knock, consider replacing the oil "cooler" It's a maze, and if there are bits of bearing, they could be stuck in it.

While you're at it, any plans to do oil pickup/pan improvements? Not sure if you already have.

Also, sure you know, but keep the valve shims/buckets associated with the correct valve when you disassemble!

I was overboosting when I had the stock TD04 and Cobb OTS stage 2.

[RM1SepEx]

I already did the STI pan and pickup, he has a full collection of shims, we will check the head, I haven't driven it 3-4 easy miles, it was a roll over and there was always a risk... buyer beware ya know! I'll stick a wideband in it and monitor closely on the dyno before pushing it, will tune as required, and yes the cooler issue has been identified... I'd like to add an external, just because!

[longislandwrx]

I was overboosting when I had the stock TD04 and Cobb OTS stage 2.

but that's a 2,5l issue, always has been on STis

shouldn't overboost on a 2.0... at least I haven't on a open downpipe, he can always run the LWG map.

[STiPWRD]

I can not believe how many tubes, hoses etc there are on this motor!
Now is a good time to replace many of the rubber hoses with new ones. When I built my hybrid motor, I replaced nearly all of the oil, coolant, and air hoses - one less thing to worry about.

[RM1SepEx]

Making good progress:

Joel tells me the heads look great, he is cleaning them up, lapping the valves, new seals and keepers.

I did Meaty's TGV delete from the NASOIC Forum http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1741045 I did find that mine were build differently! My flapper vanes are just sheet brass and they slid through a slot in the TGV shaft

I ground out the divider and the flapper seat. I then smoothed everything up with a 1 inch flapper disc. I used 3/8 inch stainless socket head cap screws and JB Weld to plug the holes

While I'm at it I've cleaned up the TGVs the Intake and the transaxle. Boy Aluma Brite does an awesome job, my transaxle almost looks new with the dull grey cast aluminum look. Should look great attached to the new shortblock

I also dieted the engine harness to remove the TGV wiring. Since I'm using Cobb I can eliminate the codes.

I'm going to powdercoat the intake and the TGVs... my valve covers are PCed wrinkle black, I'm thinking wrinkle black for the intake and a contrasting color or just semi gloss black on the TGVs. So many holes to plug during powder coating, I hope that I have enough!

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FYI, took about 3 hrs to do the delete, one die grinder bit and 2 of the flapper bits on a hand drill.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Dan, keep the wires for the tgv sensors. you can hook them up to IAT post intercooler to log that temperature.
Two free logging inputs.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

How Bob. I just terminated them and sealed them into the harness.. Temp readings would be very helpful, as a Mechanical Eng I need more EE information! :-)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

How Bob. I just terminated them and sealed them into the harness.. Temp readings would be very helpful, as a Mechanical Eng I need more EE information! :-)

Hi Dan,
Each tvg sensor has 3 wires.

1 = sensor ground
2= sensor plus 5v
3= sensor signal

Your tuner will delete the tgv functionality.

Using a sensor such as:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/gm-open-element-iat-sensor-with-pigtail-p-62.html

Might need a 10 pull up resistor.

When you log, you will have to convert the tgv voltage to temperature.
Bob

[Samiam1017]

Hi Dan,
Each tvg sensor has 3 wires.

1 = sensor ground
2= sensor plus 5v
3= sensor signal

Your tuner will delete the tgv functionality.

Using a sensor such as:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/gm-open-element-iat-sensor-with-pigtail-p-62.html

Might need a 10 pull up resistor.

When you log, you will have to convert the tgv voltage to temperature.
Bob

bob can this be done with a accessport or just open source??? thx

[Bob_n_Cincy]

bob can this be done with a accessport or just open source??? thx

I have not don't this.
But I suspect it can be done with either open source or access port.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

Powder coated yesterday, wrinkle black to match my valve covers, more like lumpy or textured vs wrinkle, red wrinkle is much prettier on my BMW 325 valve cover...

Solids, semi gloss black on the TGV bodies, I made small covers, clearanced the TGV bodies to use simple .050 thick AL covers, also in semi gloss black. Hoping the engine gets final reassembly complete this week

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[Hindsight]

Very clean looking! I am going mostly all black as well..... Keeping it subtle.

[RM1SepEx]

I had to use the oven door extension, the intake is a bit long for the std oven door, even at an angle

[Hindsight]

I would LOVE a powder coating setup. They are so affordable now, but I just don't have room for a dedicated oven in my garage. Or really anywhere. Consider me jealous.

[RM1SepEx]

Leave it in back of the garage under a tarp or do what we do... everyone shares capabilities, someone has room for the oven, that is where the powder coating equipment resides. Everyone chips in with something, pretty soon you have 25 different powders, a 10 lb container of semi gloss black etc... A couple big kits of plugs and you are set for almost anything. The oven cost nothing, you just need to setup a plug and wires, we drag it out of a corner of the garage and only do it in nice weather. We flipped the drawer around to make a door extension and insulated it with some fiberglass and made a cheap aluminum cover... We set up powder coating days and 2 or 3 people will do work. Yesterday Mike was over to do the framework for the dry sump oil tank on his 70's era formula ford too... Aluminum wheels up to 18 inches fit a std oven with the door extension, you need to fixture bolting it down to the rack to get it done w/o screwing up the uncured powder... We also have an IR stand type light to do bigger stuff but it takes forever. My wife's miata has pink wheels and her valve cover needs to be done this winter. I'm trying to match vinyl so that she can farther customize her summer "fun" car.

[Hindsight]

Yeah my brother in-law and I do that actually. He has more woodworking tools, though he just bought a nice tubing bender that will bend up to 3" tubing (should come in handy when I make an R-style rollbar to replace the S-style on my 818). He also has a big shop...... I'll have to convince him to bring home any ovens he sees on the side of the road in the bad part of town =D

[RM1SepEx]

Craigslist is your friend, ours came for free from a nice old lady who was so happy that her old oven would continue to be used (one bad burner) we didn't tell her it was relegated to the garage to reflow plastic!

[RM1SepEx]

Time for an update but first a trivia question: Did you know that the hole through the axle shaft and the CV joint is NOT centered? I've put this together 3 times now and I learned something new 15 minutes ago! My engine is in and bolted up, I returned the borrowed engine crane... and now I need to pop another suspension link to cheat the CVs out just a wee bit more to rotate them 180 degrees so that the holes line up and the pin can go through!

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I tossed in a photo of my trailer stuffed full of my PV panels. http://www.altestore.com/store/ thought it was a pretty big order but compared to Factory five or my local micro brew in Freeport it is nothing. I have 31 panels for just under 10 KW, the Brewery has 140 something panels with two active trackers! On a sunny day mine will run my mig and other shop tools... about 40 amps at 240 volts

[Hindsight]

Looks very nice.... I like your TGV blockoff plates. Much cleaner than what I did just leaving the thing exposed. Congrats on the engine install milestone.

[RM1SepEx]

they are just hand made aluminum from IC pieces from FFR that I'm not using. I did spring for the SS socket head caps vs the original hex bolts.

Coffee and then back to it!

[RM1SepEx]

Jumping between engine re-install and testing out Craig's new hinges. Looks like my narrow front radiator support is an exception, unknown as to why/how Craig's number 15 has the newer wide piece when my #17 has the earlier nose. We must have been right at the swap over. Craig's making a new hood bracket spacer because if I make one there won't be any sweet Zero DB Motorsports cutouts! :rolleyes:

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Craig's normal setup is 20 inches wide yet with my car it can't be more than 14 inches wide.

I'll powder coat everything before final assy. The hinge brackets will be black and the hinges themselves bright orange so they sort of disappear behind my grill.

[RM1SepEx]

Sometimes I can be such an idiot. If Craig hadn't sent it pre assembled I would have just put it together and lined everything up. The hood is the same, I just had to flip the hood attachment pieces! DUH :o

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I can change which direction has his company name upright by rotating them 180 and having the brace on the bottom too.

Another AMAZING product from Craig... I'm so glad that I pushed him into making these!

[matteo92065]

Now that's funny!

[Mechie3]

Hahaha! My bad. Next time I won't assemble things. lol

[RM1SepEx]

Now that's funny!

Healthy to laugh at yourself, don't want to take most parts of life too seriously.

I started this build planning on doing it quickly and debugging it at autocrosses. It was to be bare bones as produced, now I have a new shortblock, custom parts all over, billet hinges, MR2 shifter, STI oil pan system, side mount IC you get the picture! Between back orders, errors in the frame and other parts, engines going boom, etc. I have resigned myself to building it as I want. WGARA how long it takes, my stable is full of fun cars and I'm autocrossing a shifter kart. How does life get any better for someone who was told he had an incurable disease with no treatments in 1991!

Between effective treatments (over a dozen disease modifying drugs now, no cure) exercise, continued PT etc my life is great and I'm very capable albeit slow!

Question, what is a budget? :rolleyes:

[Harley818]

Hey Dan, I've come to the realization myself in the last couple weeks that I just need to continue to build the way I want without firm timeline (or budget).
So far I have been on track with my desire to get it on the road for shakedown this summer. And if I really wanted to..... I could.

However, its not going to happen. I am taking time to do the body right, I am re-doing the shifter, re-doing the intercooler, and I've been out of town at our cabin for 4 out of the last 7 weekends, and watching baseball tournaments for another 2.
It will get done when its done. As I said in another post..... I am having fun and enjoying the process.
Question #2, what is a schedule?

Thanks for posting your progress, it helps us all.

[RM1SepEx]

I get ideas from so many threads, its dangerous! I ripped out my hand made front hinges and modified trunk hinges to use Craig's. I just ordered some Godspeed trailing arms as those stupid stamped arms were Fugly compared to everything else! I'm setup with stock seats and wheels but I've been shopping online

[AZPete]

Dan, I'm glad to read that you are having fun because from what you've been through with body parts - the car's and your own - you deserve fun times. I totally agree with NO BUDGET and NO SCHEDULE. Friends keep asking when my 818 will be on the road and I keep saying, "I really have no idea and if I give you any date it will be a deadline so I'll give no estimates." I enjoy the build process too much to add time or money constraints! I've gladly remade the console three times now.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I get ideas from so many threads, its dangerous! I ripped out my hand made front hinges and modified trunk hinges to use Craig's. I just ordered some Godspeed trailing arms as those stupid stamped arms were Fugly compared to everything else! I'm setup with stock seats and wheels but I've been shopping online


Dan, I'm glad to read that you are having fun because from what you've been through with body parts - the car's and your own - you deserve fun times. I totally agree with NO BUDGET and NO SCHEDULE. Friends keep asking when my 818 will be on the road and I keep saying, "I really have no idea and if I give you any date it will be a deadline so I'll give no estimates." I enjoy the build process too much to add time or money constraints! I've gladly remade the console three times now.

Dan and Pete,
I'm right there with you.
My son is continually pushing me to work on the car.
The best part of the project.
Spending wrench time with Michael, PRICELESS
Passing my knowledge to Michael, PRICELESS
Working together developing innovations for the car with Michael. PRICELESS
Getting my a** kicked on autocross Sundays. DEPRESSING
Car will cost 50% more than first planned. Worth every penny.
Car has taken twice as long as anticipated, Worth every minute.

Bob

[RM1SepEx]

Been busy working on rotating the turbo to clean up the AAIC plumbing etc... Thanks to Craig for his approx 135 degree bracket for the wastegate

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Now I just need a 45 degree reducer to go from the 1.75 turbo outlet to a section of my 2.5 IC aluminum tubing. The route and clearances are much better. I'm also fabricating a clamp to reinforce the clocking bracket from Craig. It will go from the clocking bracket to the rectangular boss on the cold side of the turbo that is now on the top. (photo #2 above, you can see the screw hole Craig provided for the clamp)

I've given Craig dimensions to do his magic on a intercooler bracket in my location so if you want a kit from him all it takes is market demand. When I add a side scoop the AAIC solution should be a simpler, lower cost alternative to add to the AWIC solution.

[Flamshackle]

Dan and Pete,
I'm right there with you.
My son is continually pushing me to work on the car.
The best part of the project.
Spending wrench time with Michael, PRICELESS
Passing my knowledge to Michael, PRICELESS
Working together developing innovations for the car with Michael. PRICELESS
Getting my a** kicked on autocross Sundays. DEPRESSING
Car will cost 50% more than first planned. Worth every penny.
Car has taken twice as long as anticipated, Worth every minute.

Bob

This is why I have purchased the coupe. I like the look and my kids are at an age that we can build a car and build memories together. thanks for confirming my hope for this car!

[Tamra]

Dan and Pete,
I'm right there with you.
My son is continually pushing me to work on the car.
The best part of the project.
Spending wrench time with Michael, PRICELESS
Passing my knowledge to Michael, PRICELESS
Working together developing innovations for the car with Michael. PRICELESS
Getting my a** kicked on autocross Sundays. DEPRESSING
Car will cost 50% more than first planned. Worth every penny.
Car has taken twice as long as anticipated, Worth every minute.

Bob

I love this and can relate in so many ways.

[Tamra]

Been busy working on rotating the turbo to clean up the AAIC plumbing etc... Thanks to Craig for his approx 135 degree bracket for the wastegate

43293 43292 43294 43295 43296

Now I just need a 45 degree reducer to go from the 1.75 turbo outlet to a section of my 2.5 IC aluminum tubing. The route and clearances are much better. I'm also fabricating a clamp to reinforce the clocking bracket from Craig. It will go from the clocking bracket to the rectangular boss on the cold side of the turbo that is now on the top. (photo #2 above, you can see the screw hole Craig provided for the clamp)

I've given Craig dimensions to do his magic on a intercooler bracket in my location so if you want a kit from him all it takes is market demand. When I add a side scoop the AAIC solution should be a simpler, lower cost alternative to add to the AWIC solution.

This looks great, Dan! Really clean.

[RM1SepEx]

Powder coated my new hinges from Zero DB Motorsports today... They look AWESOME Craig! Thought I would include a photo of the oven door mod that My friend Mark and I made up to do larger parts too! Pull the door up and off and install this insulated aluminum bad boy. I've done my 17 inch CBR wheels and a set of 16 inch WRX wheels in a std. electric oven using this mod

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And yes the inside of that "new" extended door is the oven's drawer!

[RM1SepEx]

Installed my Godspeed trailing arms this morning. I measured the center to center distance of the stock arms at 20 3/8 inches, however my installed arms appear to have much more exposed threads than others that I've seen installed. Are people using these to adjust wheelbase to match up with the body?

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After blowing my wallet wide open on the new shortblock and engine rebuild I just couldn't leave those ugly old stamped arms on my car! :rolleyes:

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Dan,
I set my ebay trailing arms the same length as my forester oem arms. Here is a picture.

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I just changed back to the OEM arms as they have a little more tire clearance.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

Your extension appears to be the same as mine... Running stock wheels with 1.5 inch spacers I don't have tire issues!

YET! Looking for wheels and tires, I'd like to do 17's front and rear tho and it is difficult to get the correct wheel/tire combo

[RM1SepEx]

Hinges in place for body re install next week. Autocrossing the DD2 tomorrow... :o

43526

Note with my rare narrow nose the hood to hinge brackets are flipped. I'm hoping the swing will be just that wee bit more with Craigs hinges so that I can mount my grill to the bottom of the hood opening

My RAL 2008 Bright Red Orange powder coat will really pop vs. the white body and the CF extras

[Tamra]

How'd the autox go? The orange looks great

[Harley818]

Hi Dan,
I have the godspeed trailing links as well with about the same extension as you.
I adjusted my length to match the wheel in the center of the wheelwell.
Didn't look right with the stock length.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hi Dan,
I have the godspeed trailing links as well with about the same extension as you.
I adjusted my length to match the wheel in the center of the wheelwell.
Didn't look right with the stock length.

My rear wheels are centered with stock length trailing arms. But, my body is 1/2" back further than FFR design.
Bob
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[RM1SepEx]

How'd the autox go? The orange looks great

Didn't feel well, went back to bed! Was very hot and humid here and my MS doesn't take to such conditions well... a bit cooler today, back to the 818

Harley, mine are extended that far to match the 20 3/8 length of my stock 05 WRX stamped arms...

[RM1SepEx]

My frozen boost parts showed up today so I was able to finalize the IC piping. Clocking the turbo 135 works very well with a side mount AAIC

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Restart with all the new engine parts later tonight???

[Mechie3]

http://gifrific.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/Ben-Stiller-Do-It-Starsky-and-Hutch.gif

[RM1SepEx]

Oil leak, turbo area, going to pull it apart this AM... :(

[bstuke]

Ugh....

Can you provide info on what you bought to clock it?

[Mechie3]

I sent him one of my old 135deg prototype brackets. I only ever made two. The first one was rough, the second had all the refinements. I sent it to Bob'n'cincy but when he clocked the turbo the compressor nipple hit the TGV sensor and he didn't want to do TGV's at the time. I switched to a 70 deg clocking bracket which was stronger, served the same purpose (for him and I), and required less "massaging" of the coolant lines to fit so I never went back to the 135 bracket.

I recently did a writeup for the 70 deg bracket.

http://i.imgur.com/XNtYle1.jpg

Original on the right, updated on the left (the only two that ever existed)
http://i.imgur.com/CI9mTDG.jpg

The bracket was long enough that it caused flexing and required a brace
http://i.imgur.com/2vQXFpJ.jpg

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Craig
I might still have the original 135 bracket.
I'll look today to see if I can find it.
Bob

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[Mechie3]

I thought you sent it back to me and then I shipped it to Dan. If you do have one, and I somehow made three, let me know.

[RM1SepEx]

My bracket is the one on the left

I added the clamp to the turbo boss, I had to tweak the nipple and I don't have TGVs anymore

I found my oil leak was because the oil outlet of the turbo wasn't seated well. I replaced the hex heads with socket head cap screws and a button head to Craig's clocking bracket

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I'm up and running but still only when the MAF is unplugged... I can't find a vacuum leak, perhaps I have a bad MAF?

[matteo92065]

I'm up and running but still only when the MAF is unplugged... I can't find a vacuum leak, perhaps I have a bad MAF?

Are you sure that your intake tube is installed correctly? Mine is symmetrical and I had it backwards, so the MAF never worked right. Finally turned it around and now the engine runs perfect, with the MAF plugged in.

[RM1SepEx]

My intake can't be flipped as it is only 4-5 inches long and the air filter side is a larger diameter. It ran well before with my rod knock motor. Why is a MAF 175 at NAPA and 23 on eBay?

[Kurk818]

My MAF went out on me as well randomly and was a huge pain to determine that it was the culprit. Runs great after replacement.

[Hindsight]

Or you could go speed density and get rid of the MAF ;)

[STiPWRD]

I reluctantly forked over the $$$ for an OEM MAF from subaru instead of reusing my old used one. I'm not sure if the cheap ones work just as well but it is a rather critical sensor so I don't want to leave it to chance. If I was more familiar with tuning speed density I might have gone that route but just sticking with what I know.

[RM1SepEx]

My local Subaru Guru is bringing over the one off his rally car to try... fingers crossed

[RM1SepEx]

Busy day, burping the 818 :o

and finishing my solar panel install. All 31 panels up and operational. Now to wire up the basement inverter and call the power company to finish the install... hopefully next week :o

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Fingers crossed to debug my MAF problem tomorrow!

[Tamra]

Awesome @ the solar panels!!

The 818 is looking good too :)

[RM1SepEx]

Maf is fine, I have another issue, no time to debug today :(

[RM1SepEx]

Still not running right, no real progress with the motor...

However I've really started moving again to get the body back on for (hopefully) the final time...

I expect to be bonding in 4 of those 1/4 -20 studs from McMaster for the hood hinges. I've been working on the front end aluminum. Since I have that narrow radiator support frame I have to have the lower panel to create the bottom edge for the side panels of the inner fenders on the front. Is there any rhyme or reason to their shape? It's just not possible to actually get a seal to the hood or the fenders...

At least everything lined up nicely to bolt it back together!

[Mechie3]

Your sheet metal looks similar to mine. Close enough that large rocks won't make it through, but expect to find pebbles and what not always piled up inside. It's like my Fmod. After each event there's a good handful of rocks all in the side pods and the center compartment.

[matteo92065]

For the body to sheet metal gaps; That is about what I had. When you put the rubber bulb edging on, almost all of that gap is filled up.

[RM1SepEx]

For the body to sheet metal gaps; That is about what I had. When you put the rubber bulb edging on, almost all of that gap is filled up.

NFW there is a 4 inch gap from the top of the side inner aluminum fender/wheel panel to the hood. The shapes don't match the curve of the fenders, no matter where you place them, how is that even possible with a CAD generated part? It should somewhat resemble the shapes...

Made more progress today, hood hinges and lovers installed... that polyester resin smell is embedded in my nostrils again! :eek:

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I'm hoping that my hood support gives me enough room for a wiper assy (it's about 1 1/4 inch right now)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Looking good Dan.
Is the aluminum in picture #6 part of the kit?
I might have something like that but thought it was for the bottom of the car.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

Bob, I'm blocking off that area so that the air flow out of those awesome orange louvers, I bought a couple sheets of .050 aluminum... That area is a PITA to block off with the steering rack across the lower portion.

I've re-purposed unused aluminum in other areas as well.

[RM1SepEx]

Finally go my engine running properly! Stupidly simple solution... We found that the simple expanding clamp, use pliers to squeeze to open and slide did not hold the fuel hose tight enough and it was bleeding off fuel pressure. We removed the pump and while pulling and twisting it through the hole it popped off, there is no barb on that outlet nipple. We added a screw tightening clamp to the line, reassembled the pump and it fired right up!

[Tamra]

Congrats! Glad it was an easy solution!

[Hindsight]

Congrats on figuring it out!!

The hose should be tight on the nipple without the clamp though...... if it isn't I would suggest replacing the hose. In my experience, a worm clamp on an improperly sized or worn out hose won't hold a seal for long.

[RM1SepEx]

Brand new hose from FFR, they give us a short piece of submersible hose for that location. The clamp was original from my stock 05 fuel pump assy. As anyone with their original hot rod tank knows, it doesn't fit for s*** and getting the sock, pump etc through the hole and seated is a PITA. I'm looking to an alternative tank with baffling. A simple 46.5 Long x 12 high x 7.5 wide aluminum tank with baffles would be awesome. It would fit behind the original rear firewall.

[Frank818]

Great! It runs! And no more body work to do?

[Hindsight]

Ahh I get it. My guess would be that the new hose from FFR isn't the "proper" size. I recently replaced the submersed fuel hose on my 2007 pump assembly with new OE Subaru hose and clamps (while I upgraded the pump to a Walbro). I also replaced the fuel hose to and from the fuel rail on an old 1993 VW Eurovan with OEM hoses (they are very short on the VW). In both cases, the hoses were SO tight on the nipples/barbs that they probably would have held 100psi without a clamp of any kind. I had to lubricate them with fuel to get them on and even then it was difficult.

Have you considered getting the new FFR tank? It allows you to run the OEM pump assembly without modification and it fits pretty well, with the exception of the secondary fuel level sensor which requires adjustment to not interfere with the primary level sensor. To your comment about baffling.... the new tank has some but not much. Basically just one vertical baffle about 3" high with a small hole in the bottom.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Brand new hose from FFR, they give us a short piece of submersible hose for that location. The clamp was original from my stock 05 fuel pump assy. As anyone with their original hot rod tank knows, it doesn't fit for s*** and getting the sock, pump etc through the hole and seated is a PITA. I'm looking to an alternative tank with baffling. A simple 46.5 Long x 12 high x 7.5 wide aluminum tank with baffles would be awesome. It would fit behind the original rear firewall.

Dan
IMHO a 46" wide tank is way to wide for a high G car. Even at 1g on street tires you would end up sucking air at 3/8 full.
I would put a large almost full barrier in the middle of the tank. Then you can use the jet pump feature of the original Subaru system. The jet pump is like a scavenge system that can pull gas from the other side of the tank.
It was $400 for Boyd to make me a custom tank with a hole for the Subaru pump system.
Bob
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[Pearldrummer7]

Dan
IMHO a 46" wide tank is way to wide for a high G car. Even at 1g on street tires you would end up sucking air at 3/8 full.
I would put a large almost full barrier in the middle of the tank. Then you can use the jet pump feature of the original Subaru system.
It was $400 for Boyd to make me a custom tank with a hole for the Subaru pump system.
Bob
44353

Bob, what is the "jet pump feature"?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, what is the "jet pump feature"?
It is a venturi pump on the return line that can scavenge fuel from the other side of the tank.

44357

[RM1SepEx]

Like most, I've already *******ized my original Subaru setup to make the current system work as FFR designed...

The current tank is just under 47 inches wide with NO baffle, I think I could spec enough baffle to delay the sloshing for intermittent high loads. Think of horizontal baffles on both ends about 1/2 inch up with the fuel sock sitting in a small cut out area in the center of the tank and a straight up verticle float for the fuel level... I'm also considering an external fuel pump drawing from the bottom of the tank with a sort of sump to capture the fuel.

Let's face it the current tank leave a lot to be desired! At least I'm the tallest in my family at 5'8" and I don't need a thinner tank.

I have a Cobb V3 and went into the Advanced parameters table to delete DTC codes for the fuel tank, evap emmissions etc... even after unchecking of codes P0183 P1446 and P0447, they popped up again! Any ideas out there?


Great! It runs! And no more body work to do?

Missed your question Frank... Bottom line, my "new" body panels were touched up by FFR before I picked them up, they delayed my arrival to pick them up 5 hrs allowing the time. Getting the gel coat right is an amazing PITA and with my numb, painful hands and arms I can only do about 1/2 hr a day before I'm done. voids and pits are all over the place and reshaping the fender tips etc can go a long ways to making it look "right". It's getting there, hopefully I can get it to where I'll be happy w/o paint but right now I'm 50/50 on that point. The more that you look at it in the daylight the more you can understand why everyone is painting their cars. I want to investigate using plasti-dip so I bought $300 of dip and I'm working with an experienced friend to dip my oldest and ugliest Miata... perhaps dip will be acceptable long term.

[STiPWRD]

Are you using the Cobb to look up the codes? I believe someone (maybe Jaime) mentioned they used ECU flash and a tactrix cable to disable DTC codes and couldn't figure out why the codes were still showing up. They determined that the codes are still be read through ECU flash but if you hook up a generic code reader, they will not show up. The ECU still shows the code internally, it just doesn't report it to the OBD2 port through normal protocol.

[RM1SepEx]

I have a bluetooth code reader, I'll have to check it out... I'll contact Cobb too

[RM1SepEx]

Video of it running properly, I really like the sound of my exhaust!

http://youtu.be/6SSfeUljeiA

Video of my shifter in action, Note I lifted the modified MR2 shifter about 1.5 inches. I'll make up new tunnel aluminum later this week.

http://youtu.be/wp38MQ3HWzg

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[Mitch Wright]

Dan, nice work and congratulations the engine sounds great.

[Frank818]

I agree, that exhaust does sound very good indeed!!

Remind me what size muffler? I mean external sizes, or actually the Magnaflow model # would be good enough.

[Tamra]

Wow, congrats! That sounds great! Your shifter looks really nice too.

[DMC7492]

Dan check out my jet pump system it fills the nine inch sump from out side of the sump. It is a SARDS killer jet pump. It flows more than the stock jet pump using a 340 Aeromotive pump. The stock jet pump has a bypass valve and it was flowing out. To much volume.
Now the fuel can slosh, but the sump will stay full, thanks to a brilliant mind like Bob from Cincy!

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[RM1SepEx]

I agree, that exhaust does sound very good indeed!!

Remind me what size muffler? I mean external sizes, or actually the Magnaflow model # would be good enough.

Just a generic 3 inch in and out stainless one from Ebay, it's detailed in my post a few pages back. It was only like $35 shipped! You can roll a ball right through the center of it. I built the whole thing from a cheap ebay bell mouth header, a magnaflow 3 inch spun cat and the muffler. I may make my own exit tube by sectioning the pipe to get a sharp bend to have it come out straight down

[RM1SepEx]

Put it on scales today, loaded in my trailer, off for an alignment tomorrow..

Not much else to install, stereo, trunk liner, door liners, interior vinyl, mirrors, CF splitter, diffuser, rear street spoiler, CF rocker extensions

With me in driver's seat 2050, empty 1868 my completed goal is 2000 lbs empty

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[wallace18]

Very nice work,Dan.

[Hindsight]

Wow 1868.... not bad! I'm sure you'll be in under 2,000.

[RM1SepEx]

Aligned it yesterday, was a hoot to work through all the adjustments, rear to front, using the Subaru dealer's equipment while they were closed. So many links to adjust and each rotation of a link effects more than one setting! Now to work on my exhaust exit from the body, more exterior panel finalization and continued massaging of the surface of the panels. I wish that they would look good with a simple buffing but that's far from the case.

I did boot it across the parking lot, damn this thing needs smooth pavement or it grinds on the nose. I don't even have the splitter, diffuser and side extensions on yet!

I've cleared all my codes using the advanced parameters table yet that damn Po183 fuel temp sensor high keeps popping up! I don't understand why after it's been cleared/eliminated...

[Frank818]

1868, that's light!

[RM1SepEx]

My finished goal with interior is 2000, I'm pretty sure I can get there

[RM1SepEx]

My friend couldn't find his 4 inch hole saw for the exhaust so I ordered a large set on Amazon Prime...

Working on my air intake ducting for the cone filter and the IC, they share the side vent. I'll also be bringing air to the intake through what was the intercooler duct.

I need to borrow a couple profile gauges from a friend in the AM

Here is the roughed in aluminum box to isolate the intake from the intercooler and direct the IC fan airflow

45301

Similar to what Tamra and Andrew did for their intake

[RM1SepEx]

Dyno update:

Several issues: lean condition bank one CEL flashed on very low load before starting pull, occurred twice

I only data logged two pulls of 4, OOPS!

Max boost observed 9 PSI UGH time to debug

220 hp 200 torque on Dynocom 150,000 dyno, very conservative compared to other at the wheel dynos. So finding my boost problems and some slight mixture problems and I should be in great shape. I'll be uploading my data logs later

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Dyno update:

Several issues: lean condition bank one CEL flashed on very low load before starting pull, occurred twice

I only data logged two pulls of 4, OOPS!

Max boost observed 9 PSI UGH time to debug

220 hp 200 torque on Dynocom 150,000 dyno, very conservative compared to other at the wheel dynos. So finding my boost problems and some slight mixture problems and I should be in great shape. I'll be uploading my data logs later

Dan the 2005 WRX is rated at 227 HP at the crank. (unless you have other goodies)
your 220 at the wheels sounds great. What were you expecting?

[Mechie3]

Low boost: Double check that your wastegate is closing all the way. With the clocking bracket it's possible that the arm is too long and needs to be adjusted. The details are in my turbo clocking writeup.

[Tamra]

Did the tuner have any ideas on how to solve the problems?

Sounds like progress! 220whp is still probably a lot of fun :)

[RM1SepEx]

Just waded through the data log max boost was 10 PSI, Bob, I expected a bit higher boost, more HP (240 ish). Craig, yup that was my first thought, re-adjusting the contact of that waste gate disc vs the turbo was a bit tricky, I did have to shorten it, I might be bleeding some boost.

My Subaru friend expected more boost 12-13 PSI

The good news, 4 pulls, with my 1250 CFM 10 inch fan pulling through the side mount IC with a fan on it, went from 66 to 70 degrees. I think that with a modest 3-4 inch deep/wide scoop on the side it should work fine. It did take 6-7 pieces of aluminum to duct off the IC and intake air flows

I'm thinking my lean condition may be due to running an almost non-existent intake tube and the header, to 3 inch bellmouth, cat, 90 bend muffler, exit setup. My intake and exhaust flow restrictions are very low compared to a WRX. Cobb did feel that it would be safe and the lean is only below 2000 rpm in 3rd while spinning up the rollers to start the pulls.

I may need to bite the bullet and go to a custom tune. However It goes like a raped ape... I can leave double patches of rubber as long as you desire or can afford. I can not imagine much more HP on the street, just can't use it.

Edit: found a boost table for 2.0 WRX on Nasoic Stock is around 13.5 PSI

45978

[RM1SepEx]

Did the tuner have any ideas on how to solve the problems?

Sounds like progress! 220whp is still probably a lot of fun :)

not using a "tuner" yet. Cobb and AJW thought a straight up Cobb stage 2 tune would be a safe setup with my system as described. My friend with the dyno works with Megasquirt systems as do many in our autocross community.

I'm sure with some simple tweaking I can get a bit more boost from the stock setup, I have my goal set at an old school 10 lbs per loaded HP at the wheels. 2000 lb car with 400 lbs in payload needs 240 WHP. :o

Edit: Bob you and your son need a slightly higher target... ;-)

[RM1SepEx]

Stupid Subaru sedan belts locked up again. Ordered FFR harness bar and Schroth Rallye Cross belts today. http://www.rockymtnautosports.com/schroth-rallye-cross/ Now I'll have a DOT harness and won't be stranded with a belt that stops working!

[Tamra]

Nice! We are very happy with our Schroth harnesses. We went with the Profi II ASM FE with the sub strap to make it a 5 point, but the Rallye ones look nice too. It's great that they are safe as a 4 point. Our DMV inspector wanted to see the tag that stated they were FMVSS 209 approved, so just be prepared.

The attachment points on the frame for the FFR harness bar were a little off for us, so we moved the tabs a little to get the right angle.

[RM1SepEx]

Belts arriving today... I need to call FFR no shipping confirmation yet.

Last autocross of the year Sunday, I got FTD in Frankenstein again, it's good to finish the year with consecutive FTDs!

[RM1SepEx]

Project on hold, 92 yr old mother in law's in the hospital... :( she fractured her spine, c3- c4 area, prognosis isn't good she's tiny at 70 lbs or so

[Hindsight]

Ouch, sorry to hear it Dan. Will send good thoughts your way.

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks, we all realize how frail and helpless we are as babies, at 92 it's not much different except you are on the tail end of life. Makes for a ton of stress in life... she's a wonderful person and I despise seeing her in so much pain. I told my wife that if/when I'm at that point we have a goodbye party for friends and I slip away on a morphine induced permanent sleep!

[AZPete]

My thoughts are with you, Dan, and I hope she recovers quickly. Reaching 92 is an accomplishment so she must be tough.

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks Pete, she escaped China and Chairman Mao when she was a young woman from a wealthy family marked for elimination. My in laws are/were very humble and meek but tough as nails and very strong willed. He was a doctor, she was a nurse, nothing but rice for years during their schooling, he did medical school in China and in Canada to move to the west. We all need to realize how lucky we are to be citizens of the US.

[Frank818]

Oh god, sorry Dan. :( My GM was 92 and about 70lbs as well when passed away. She's done her life, but hopefully your MiL still got a few miles in left.

[RM1SepEx]

I think I found my low boost problem soln today... when I clocked the turbo I had to modify the vacuum lines for the boost controller. I no longer have a restriction pill! I'll have a replacement next week, fingers crossed! :)

[RM1SepEx]

I found a use for all those Chinese takeout chopsticks! I used white vinyl edging on the body cutout, softened with a heat gun. Used clear silicone to glue the RAL 2008 orange powder coated grill in the rear opening

48510

[TrickyPete]

How did the restrictor pill work out? Did it solve your boost issue?

[RM1SepEx]

Haven't brought it back to my friend's dyno Pete. I thought you were going to stop by last weekend...

I did snake through the wires for my AAIC intake temp sensors. I had to order a couple bungs, they will be in this week. The old seat belts have been removed and I'm ready to start laying out the interior and gauges, switches etc... I think I'm going to do custom door pulls vs the WRX units since I'm not using the aluminum door inserts.

[Mechie3]

I just boxed up those prototype arms I don't need anymore. They'll be heading your way tomorrow.

[ssssly]

The missing restrictor pill is likely the reason for both the lean low RPM issues and the lack of boost up top.

Without it the system will act like there is no BCS installed. There is no wastegate control other than the WG spring. So the turbo will not bleed any air until it hits spring pressure. So it will spool a bit faster than stock giving you your down low lean condition.

It however will also not keep the wastegate closed past spring pressure, giving you your lack of top end boost.

Should be good to go.

[TrickyPete]

Haven't brought it back to my friend's dyno Pete. I thought you were going to stop by last weekend...

I did snake through the wires for my AAIC intake temp sensors. I had to order a couple bungs, they will be in this week. The old seat belts have been removed and I'm ready to start laying out the interior and gauges, switches etc... I think I'm going to do custom door pulls vs the WRX units since I'm not using the aluminum door inserts.

I learned a valuable lesson in communicating with the wife. She had the whole weekend planed out with hair appointments, cheering stuff and a birthday party so I was tied up at home. I'll send you a text later today.

[RM1SepEx]

I learned a valuable lesson in communicating with the wife. She had the whole weekend planed out with hair appointments, cheering stuff and a birthday party so I was tied up at home. I'll send you a text later today.

My my my, that never happens to me! :rolleyes: Last day of muzzle loader season, I'm going to be occupied until after dark

[RM1SepEx]

Looks better w/o the chopsticks!

48527

[wallace18]

Looks better w/o the chopsticks!

48527 Sure does! LOL.

[RM1SepEx]

Anything to get rid of those aluminum "trim" pieces and exposed screws Tom! Anyone have a nice solution to get the blinkers and a reflector cleanly on the side of the rear clip? I need them for a sticker in Maine. Hoping for something flush mount

[RM1SepEx]

Slow going with so much going on!

Shifter is finalized with Craig's aluminum shifter plate. It holds the MR2 ball tighter and tightens up the shift action. Shifting throw is very short and positive, great feel, even with a pair of cables.

48642

My intake tubes are getting their bungs welded in for the AAIC temp sensors. Not sure when I'll get it to Chris' new AWD Dynocom dual 150,000 dyno with all options. He's the lead software developer for their latest offerings to run the dyno from a single laptop in the car!

http://www.corvetteonline.com/features/pri-coverage/pri-2015-dynocoms-new-quantum-software-and-afr-system/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=pri-2015-dynocoms-new-quantum-software-and-afr-system

I've also decided to screw down the engine cover and use a small door to access the oil fill and dip stick. I should be finishing up this area upholstered in black vinyl and will use a small switched LED light to illuminate the area.

48641

I'd like to go with a std heater system but I'm not looking forward to running the water feed and return to the heater hose loop. Any ideas how this can best be done with a nice appearance before I settle for DC powered defroster vents and the seat heaters that I already have?

I'm also looking for ideas for the ODBII port and the two green plugs and the white one... I need easy access for the Cobb Accessport

[RM1SepEx]

I wanted the gauge pod to hold tighter to the dash molding so I added that thin black vinyl edging over the fiberglass, (use a heat gun to get the glue that is in the middle to activate) and a thin strap up and over the gauge pod. I used those 1/4- 20 studs and fiberglass bonded them in. During one of my in and out installs I broke one of the gauge pod brackets... :mad: I had to bond it back on with epoxy

48729 48730

[mikeb75]

You can leave the white ECU connector closed with the loop plug you received with your AP; makes no difference to ECU operation.

You can connect the 2 green (test) plugs with a simple open/closed toggle switch hidden somewhere under the dash that is accessible. It's only needed for reflashing the ECU. I put mine high in the passenger footwell on the center console aluminum; just the perfect place for the passenger to kick it when taking a corner very fast :)

[idf]

You can leave the white ECU connector closed with the loop plug you received with your AP; makes no difference to ECU operation.

You can connect the 2 green (test) plugs with a simple open/closed toggle switch hidden somewhere under the dash that is accessible. It's only needed for reflashing the ECU. I put mine high in the passenger footwell on the center console aluminum; just the perfect place for the passenger to kick it when taking a corner very fast :)

I took a similar approach, but used a keyed switch.

[RM1SepEx]

I got tired of getting the screw into the frame using the angled tab of the rear fender so I just riveted on a 1 inch piece of 1/8 thick aluminum.

48744

[RM1SepEx]

Busy day, finally got off my butt after over thinking my center console. The majority of it will be covered with the high grade medical vinyl I bought. The section going up to the dash is an odd shape as it goes from the center between the sheets up to the dash. I hand cut and filed to fit holes for the seat heater, IC fan, foglights, interior light switches, Inlet and outlet IC temp gauge, USB and 12V power ports and my Kenwood stereo. I will be laminating thin 1/4 sawn oak veneer on it to match the dash and door panel inserts. I have to go borrow a 1 1/8 inch hole punch to finish the power ports. I also got to take a spin around the driveway on a nice sunny day! Note the cement filled kart tires that allows for gravity to continue to work on the body contours :)

50835 50836 50838

[Hindsight]

Lookin good Dan! Do you find the console intrudes on your leg area at all? I've been thinking about making something similar but was worried about that.

[RM1SepEx]

Plenty of leg room on both sides. I have to borrow a friends leather beating bag to put a bump on the passenger side, the stereo has a bit of conflict. I pulled the WRX console apart. I'm trying to use the dual fold out cup holder off the passenger side of the console. I'm using the upper storage compartment as the top of the console/armrest.

The dash and door inserts are just about done. The dash is not a very regular shape and is damn wavy. It was difficult to bond the veneer on with contact cement to get it flat. It's stained and has multiple coats of spar varnish, yellows it a bit but puts on a nice finish that will stand up to the weather in an open car.

I bought some custom turned aluminum knobs to use as door pulls. I need to get the old oven out and powder coat them orange to match the door pulls and steering wheel center. I also made a cute door to access the oil fill and dipstick w/o pulling up the engine cover. It includes a small switch and a LED light.

[Hindsight]

Nice, looking forward to seeing the finished product.

[Tamra]

The car looks great!

[RM1SepEx]

Console ready for stain and varnish, once it is finished the 1/4 sawn oak grain will POP

50889

[AZPete]

Dan, nice design on the console. I'm looking forward to seeing the oak finished. Have you already covered the dash in veneer? I think the rule is that unless there is a photo, it didn't happen! :D

[RM1SepEx]

Dash and door panel inserts are also oak, once they are finished I'll post photos, A friend is doing the varnish work, too cold in my garage, he heats his wood shop.

[RM1SepEx]

Single swing wiper installed. I need to find the source for the Factory Five optional wiper arm assembly, it has a lower profile. Right now it parks just above the hood on the right and sweeps 90 degrees to reach the left windshield post. I did modify the actual wiper by adding a 1/8 roll pin to relocate the attachment point. This means the wiper goes all the way up to the top and left edge of the windshield and wipes more of the lower windshield.

https://youtu.be/zjT0reQ6uM4

51033

Using the stock factory subaru wiper arm I'll need to cut the hood about 1/4 inch! So damn close!

[nkw8181]

Looking good! Ps we have the same painters tape headlights lol

[RM1SepEx]

Wiper Update: I should be able to try the longer FFR arm on my car thanks to another local builder TrickyPete

Tony Z tells me the wiper arms are custom pieces, I'm working to source the longer one from FFR

I'm still bouncing all over the place, assembly wise. I need to swap to Craig's new coupe hood hinge arms, they will allow me to put a grill in the front of my car. Time to hit the orange powder coating next week! Hinge arms, door pull knobs and grill to coat. I'll PC the aluminum that covers the edge of the side pod/door openings too. Note that I cut off the inside aluminum that is folded over. I'll powder coat it and use a vinyl edging to hold down the black vinyl interior.

Here is how I finished my front engine cover hold downs and the corner of the interior with Aluminum. I expect to be cutting and installing vinyl next week

51069 51070 51071

sorry about the photo quality... a wee bit fuzzy on the interior shot!

[AZPete]

Dan, your front grill really adds a nice finishing touch. Nice work. If you find a wiper arm that fits onto the Subaru drive post but is "thinner", I'd like to know the source. I've got my donor wiper working well but I don't want to cut the hood so a wiper arm that is thinner (glass - hood) would be good.

[RM1SepEx]

Pete just left... the FFR wiper works and gives me a bunch of clearance! Tony indicated that they would sell me one, I need only the longer of the two arms used in their setup.

FFR wiper arm update, longer arm only: $24 = shipping and the # is 80781 Right now est 3 week backorder

My wood dash and door panels will be back tomorrow PM... interior is coming together.

[TrickyPete]

Make sure you post pictures of the oak dash. I'm really curious and excited to see what it looks like.:cool:


Pete just left... the FFR wiper
works and gives me a bunch of clearance! Tony indicated that they would sell me one, I need only the longer of the two arms used in their setup.

My wood dash and door panels will be back tomorrow PM... interior is coming together.

[RM1SepEx]

The pieces are coming home tonight, I'll try for pictures tomorrow

Off to Maine Indoor Karting in Scarborough for our weekly heats

[RM1SepEx]

First sneak peak at the doors and dash

51144 51145

[Hindsight]

Very nice work!

[svanlare]

Those turned out very nice. I really like the front grill. As I've been driving around I've been looking at cars to see if there is anything I can "reuse" but your solution looks like a good way to go there.

[AZPete]

Looks very good, Dan.

[RM1SepEx]

They are finished in gloss spar varnish, I've decided to try semi gloss as the uneven "roughness" of oak doesn't quite look right to me in gloss under the sun that finally came out yesterday.

Powder coating delay, 1 week, 2 damn cold to run a kitchen oven outside... next week will be better

[wallace18]

Very nice work on the dash, etc.:)

[nkw8181]

like the dash and grill!!

[RM1SepEx]

Getting very close, sent in the title paperwork last week, single wiper setup and working, uses longer FFR wiper arm and a very specific Rain X blade to get under hood clearance. Both doors hung, not perfect but workable, I need to trim the lower edges as the FFR vinyl strips causes dragging when the doors close with std paint stick gaps. I like how my custom aluminum door pulls work, very nice action I felt that the Subaru parts were flimsy.

Just installed interior lights today as well as trickle charger lead to my access door in the driver's hump.

Dash and console ready for vinyl, I need to order some nice button head cap screws in black to go with the black vinyl etc...

53152 53153 53154 53155

[wallace18]

Coming along very nice Dan.

[Frank818]

About wiper, your problem was the blade and not the arm?

[RM1SepEx]

Both, I used the longer FFR arm and a low profile Rain x wiper that has a ton of curve to it to follow the windshield

[RM1SepEx]

Big day, J Lo, FFR 818S # 17 is now a legal road car, Maine VIN#7008! Finalizing the interior, button stuff up on the road next week!

53664

[metros]

Congrats! Big step!

[mikeb75]

Very cool, congrats!

[Hindsight]

Congrats!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Big day, J Lo, FFR 818S # 17 is now a legal road car, Maine VIN#7008! Finalizing the interior, button stuff up on the road next week!

53664

Congratulations Dan,
This I the point where all your debug work starts. I figure you are about 75% done.
Bob

[Rasmus]

Major milestone! Nice work.

[GoDadGo]

Congratulations From The Swamp Lands Of Louisiana!

[RM1SepEx]

Congratulations Dan,
This I the point where all your debug work starts. I figure you are about 75% done.
Bob

Don't I know it! I like that part tho, it's what I did as an Engineer all those years ago. Dyno again Monday or Tuesday. My friend's dynocom 150000 awd dyno with hysteresis load cells is ready to go. No more lift up on the wheels, it's in a pit and one dyno moves for diff wheelbases. Fingers crossed, my original goal was 10 lbs per loaded HP. Once the interior is in I'll re-weigh it and the dyno numbers should be in the 240-250 range. She did 220 with only 10 lbs of boost.

[wallace18]

Super job Dan!

[Frank818]

Wow! You made it through the body alignment! After all the hard work, it's more than well deserved!!

[RM1SepEx]

Sadly my throttle cable snapped just as I started the first pull today! No dyno results for a while, back to the interior so I can get her registered (fingers crossed) next week?

Here is a couple shots of what I did with the 6.5 speakers. You need to block it off in back as that area opens into the whole rocker panel area and the volume is just too big!

53821 53822 53823



I made that area much smoother and it's easier to cover with vinyl or carpet. I need to trim the carpet, just laid it in before I went for my failed dyno excursion. The passenger side is done, now the driver's side and then the humps.

The foot rest area is covered with that anti slip tape, boy does it stick. I used 1/8 foam under the vinyl and use velcro to hold in in key areas. It's held in place in others with indoor/outdoor carpet tape. I cut one of the sides off the door entry aluminum and finished the edge with vinyl edging. Now that the State is done titling it I can add stuff that obviously doesn't come with the kit. Maine charges excise tax based on 2.4X the build cost... Mine was presented as a 9995 kit and a 1850 2005 WRX donor. "everything you shee here came from that donor or the packaged kit"

[GUNS]

Congrats, looking great!

[svanlare]

Awesome to see yours on the road! looks great

[RM1SepEx]

Important notice to other builders! The original throttle cable uses a plastic button on the end to hold the molded ball on the end at the throttle cable. My cable didn't break, the plastic button did. It would be a shame to get stranded because of such a simple issue. I replaced mine with a couple small heavy washers. I cut slots in them and rotated them so that the slots didn't line up. I then glued them together with black silicone with the ball. Now that rubber encased unit is lightly bonded to the gas pedal.

Back in business! Here is a shot of the piece that didn't fly by my head when it broke

53871

[Frank818]

Yup, how true! Guess what, mine broke before I could ever use it! I put some crap black silicone all around to hold it in place. Does the job for now (show car moments).

I'd like to see pix of your washers.

[RM1SepEx]

pics, not possible see why below:

just take a couple small washers and cut a slot wide enough for the cable to slide through in each. Then I used trusty black silicone between them and around the ball. The ball seats into the hole of the washer. Align the slots and the slot in the pedal so none line up with each other. You have a rubberized mass on the end of the pedal that can be taken apart with a knife but will stay together under use.

[Hindsight]

Now that you've fixed the cable, when is the next dyno session?

[Frank818]

I get it, fairly easy, tnx Dan.

Dan a body Q, remember the 7-7/8 to 8" distance between rear fw top bar and most fwd top edge of the side sail top of door?
In what crap would I be if that distance gets to 8-1/8?

[RM1SepEx]

Frank everything is relative, when the body moves forward the nose has to be bridged to the radiator support more, you gain clearance for wipers at the back of the hood, the roll bar clearance gets tighter. Every decision is reflected in other areas. You could analyze it forever. Many of us find that the two sides don't match up. I couldn't measure much variation in the frame, it is very square. The body, not so much... just keep playing with it until you are satisfied. I couldn't get it "perfect"

[Frank818]

Ok I see. Does the bottom rear of the fenders need to be flush with the bottom front of the side sails?
If they aren't, the front rear splash guard won't fit, am I correct? Currently I am short, I need to push the side sail fwd, probably cuz my wheels are a little more fwd due to the 10mm LCA spacers.

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[Hindsight]

For a tiny bit like that, you can just force the fender to where you want it. Some have said it's bad to do that due to stress on the glass but I can't imagine putting one of these together without forcing some things here and there. The parts just don't fit well enough to be able to lay things in place and bolt them where they lay. Do that and you will end up with nothing lined up properly. The lower rear of my fenders are forced about 3/4" and I had to force the front bumper about 1/2" to 3/4" to the left to get it to center properly.

[RM1SepEx]

Frank, the question is what the hell happened to the bottom of your fender?

It should line up with the same personality lines molded into the side sails, sorry the car is in the garage photos are not very good

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to get the door to open w/o hitting the fender edge the front lower edge of the door is about 3/8 to 1/2 inside of the personality edge molded into the rocker panel

I keep looking at that photo and it doesn't look right, the bottom edge is molded with a return that goes inward, why is there mold flash sticking out on the bottom, zoom out with another photo please Frank

[Frank818]

Ok I'll take better pix. Those are the new fenders from the new nose, don't know if that portion of the fenders should be exactly like the original bumper/fender. I still need to remove the seam, yeah.

I already pushed towards the car that portion almost 3" and 1.5-2" pushing front to back in order to get the pic I posted above. More and I fear the glass/fb will crack. Which is why I asked if it's important for the fender to line up with the side sail in order to fit the splash guard. I can't get the guard in, I noticed I need to remove the windscreen in order to slide the alu panel into the notch for the hood support bracket. Not convinient at all for maintenance, you need the splash guard off? Remove the windscreen first. loll

Dan I can still move fwd the side sails relative to the humps lid, but then I'll need to trim more the top front of the doors. That should work.

But I'm very curious about your reaction, I'll take a few more pix and compare to yours.

[Frank818]

But Dan, underneath the lower part of the fender there is notch that seems to slide into the protruding section of the side sail, instead of sitting on it like yours. I'll show you with other pix.

[RM1SepEx]

That's the problem, I have no clue re the new nose, I'm surprised it doesn't line up the same with the molded in body line. How do you bolt down the bottom of the fender?

[Frank818]

Oh that's easy, there's a triangle piece of FB leveled to the bottom of side sail, slides over the bottom of the side sail (not underneath but the portion a few inches over), rivet it to the side sail.

I'll see if I can heat up the bottom of the fender and change its shape, I know you're pro at that, I'm sure I can learn too, right! :)

[Frank818]

Hey Dan, here are some other pix for fun.

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I heated up the bottom of the panel with my heat gun, using 150 to 400C (a lot in F) temps. It started to smell burning FB but I think it helps changing the shape of the panel. I'll know tomorrow.

I think I'll live with that. I pushed a little fwd the driver's side sail, fits perfect now. Didn't do it much on the passenger's. I did trim around the roll bar for the humps lid to push it fwd. I am short just a little on the humps lid-to-top-of-door but I'll manage something.

The new panels are a LOT better than the old ones for various reasons I'll state on my thread.

To answer my question, the fender should be as close fit as possible with the side sail. Doesn't look good otherwise and would most probably be a prob with the splash guard.

[RM1SepEx]

you need to deflash that botom section so you can align the panel with the rocker