RM1Sepex Build Thread

[RM1SepEx]

I think I've got it... :)

mount up the doors loose enough to move around with a rubber mallet. Loosely bolt in the striker brackets, position the strikers as per the manual page 381 plate about an inch in and the lower edge right at the top of the aluminum cover plate for the side panels/cockpit.

Once those are bolted through the bracket tighten them up. Install the Subaru latches to the doors, I bought new SS flathead 6mm x 1 mm screws. It depends if you use the front or rear latch assy when you buy screws. I bought 30MM long screws, they work for the back latches, not the fronts. The fronts need shorter screws to avoid interference with the mechanism. The manual shows the front latches, one of mine was damaged in the accident, the other doesn't work reliably so I used the rears... I even have child locks... :rolleyes:

I've not finalized the position of any of my body panels yet. I've been using gravity to "work" the panels into shape over time. You can see how they are fitting now after about a month of slight tension using clecos and 1 gallon weights.

Now you can take the door and shove it up and forward while latched to the striker plate. you need to do this to have enough space for the striker, door and latch plate. tighten it up and viola, one door frame in the correct position. I'm going to pin them with 1/8 roll pins to make it easier to align later, everything has slotted holes

Now to add a support for the hood in the center across the 1 inch frame tube. The FFR aluminum piece with rubber on the top is too low. I think that with the proper support we can get a nice arc in the hood.

As shown earlier in my thread I'm not using hood pins on the engine cover. I've made 2 inch aluminum brackets to hold the front with either a bolt of Dzus from the inside. The left side of the engine cover still needs some "tweaking" constant light force from 8 lb weights (1 gallon of water = 8.34) God only knows exactly what each weighs, I have a variety of liquids in those containers!.

The rear of the enine cover will be held down on each side by a bolt or Dzus again... I've made 3 inch long and two inch wide, 1/4 in thick aluminum tabs to bolt to the edge of the side panels over the rear wheels. Again to avoid those ugly yet race functional hood pins.

You can see my hinged hood, I need to stiffen it I think...

There is no way to hold the 1/8 door gap at the rear w/o insetting the striker plates in the fenders, did everyone do that???

[ehansen007]

As for picture six, it's always a good thing to take extra fluids on long trips . :)

[RM1SepEx]

two 5 qt containers of oil, 2 gallons of pre mixed anti freeze and a gallon of washer fluid...

[metalmaker12]

Finally !!!!!! Lol j/k looks good man

[RM1SepEx]

I'm old, disabled and slow... my kid is graduating HS, as much work as your new baby! :rolleyes:

Chris, did you set your door strikers into the fiberglass fender?

[Frank818]

Yeah you are now 1 step away from registrations! :)

Those flat head screws you are talking about, are they the same as the ones we might need to put at the bottom front of the doors? Ref to that red FFR prototype which had scratched the sills.

[RM1SepEx]

Frank, I haven't bolted on the door skin, I have 1/8 clearance so a flathead screw should work best. I won't use a metric screw there too $$$ I'll buy a package of stainless screws like these.... http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=so1s3p

Product Detail
Type 316 Stainless Steel Flat-Head Socket Cap Screw, 1/4"-20 Thread, 1" Long
Packs of 10
In stock

[wallace18]

Dan here are some pics that you asked for in your PM. You can see the door gap. Not 1/8" for sure. But it is even all around. I mounted the latch inside the door skin as documented by Wayne and the Grassroots videos. Then you can use small hardware to the skin. My striker is right on the body. The doors open and close fine. I had to tweak the door stops as well as trim the fender edge some.

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[RM1SepEx]

Thanks Tom!

so you relieved the door and used rivets to hold the door skin to the frame instead of the latch mechanism screws... you really mounted your strikers towards the inside of the car compared to the GRM and FFR info

Stupid me, watched those GRM videos a while back, should have reviewed them

did you add some sort of rubber strip to deflect and cushion the door when it is closed? I would expect that would make it easier to adjust the striker position and minimize rattles

[wallace18]

Thanks Tom!

so you relieved the door and used rivets to hold the door skin to the frame instead of the latch mechanism screws... you really mounted your strikers towards the inside of the car compared to the GRM and FFR info

Stupid me, watched those GRM videos a while back, should have reviewed them

did you add some sort of rubber strip to deflect and cushion the door when it is closed? I would expect that would make it easier to adjust the striker position and minimize rattles

No I did not use any rubber.

[Erik W. Treves]

I didn't either and there are no rattles...door closes like OE..even has that solid thud feeling

[RM1SepEx]

Can I assume that you also inset the latch in the door vs the striker in the body? I just have to wonder how FFR did neither, the gap would be about 1/2 inch the way that it is written up!

[Mechie3]

FFR did change the bolts. The original bolts were flathead (IIRC) and it turns out they didn't meet DOT specs so had to be replaced with hex heads that are 1/8" tall on top of the height of the striker.

I need to redo my doors too. This will help.

[RM1SepEx]

more bolts that we don't have? how can the original screws not meet DOT spec?

[Mechie3]

We have the bolts, just hex heads, not flat heads. Here are snippets of the original emails with Joe.

Craig: I ground one down and it fits now, but the OEM screws are too short. The manual says to use the OEM screws, but then later says use supplied screws. I don't see any M6 flatheads on the BOM and can't find any.

Joe: The reason why we had to use a regular hex head bolt for the striker was due to safety compliance. The bolt had to be a certain strength for that latch system, I agree a button head will give you a lot more clearance

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks Craig, I bought flatheads, screw DOT, cut door as per above works great... I put the strikers where FFR did, about an inch out for the edge of the strikers, made adj mounting holes re GRM video, vs where Tom did, the door swings an arc and that point is closest when the door frame is parallel to the chassis...

Next, finished up hood and front fender placement, My gaps are pretty good and "tweaking" is easy, almost ready to install my CF locking hood pin/latches

I've marked with gold marker a line where the hood hits the windshield surround, several mentioned some cutting here, is this where they were talking about? Picture perhaps from Tom or Chris, Alohah818, Wayne?

I added a center support for the hood, it is 5 1/8 inches tall and helps keep proper hood curvature. It is centered on the car and hood. How thin is everyone making the rear hood lip? It almost looks like if I essentially remove the lip I can get the wiper mechanism under the hood. I'll need to relocate the master cylinder reservoir... but that is easy. I found an old 20 inch wiper, it allows me to put the mechanism farther forward where there is more clearance. I have a problem though, my roll over donor had a broken passenger wiper arm, so I'm looking for one from someone who doesn't need it. Sadly my extra Honda and Miata parts use a different spline. Question is the wiper arm a different configuration or length on the passenger side?

BTW, just measured my windshield to roll bar and to engine cover measurements to compare to the update we received re the top install... spot on! What are the odds of that, both sides exactly on their spec, a first for me on this build for sure!

[Mechie3]

My windshield measurements were good too. I was glad as my surround seemed to fit in one spot and one spot only.

[RM1SepEx]

did you need to clip it for fender clearance? Photo of the area please... Perhaps trimming the hood would be a better soln?

[metalmaker12]

I'm old, disabled and slow... my kid is graduating HS, as much work as your new baby! :rolleyes:

Chris, did you set your door strikers into the fiberglass fender?

No I just screwed them to the quarter and bracket underneath.

[RM1SepEx]

No I just screwed them to the quarter and bracket underneath.

so you cut the doors like everyone else... :) did you clip your windshield frame where the tips of the hood meets it? Aloha818's looks like his ended before thw windshield, I've been searching for photos of what others did!

[Aloha818]

Thanks Craig, I bought flatheads, screw DOT, cut door as per above works great... I put the strikers where FFR did, about an inch out for the edge of the strikers, made adj mounting holes re GRM video, vs where Tom did, the door swings an arc and that point is closest when the door frame is parallel to the chassis...

Next, finished up hood and front fender placement, My gaps are pretty good and "tweaking" is easy, almost ready to install my CF locking hood pin/latches

I've marked with gold marker a line where the hood hits the windshield surround, several mentioned some cutting here, is this where they were talking about? Picture perhaps from Tom or Chris, Alohah818, Wayne?

I added a center support for the hood, it is 5 1/8 inches tall and helps keep proper hood curvature. It is centered on the car and hood. How thin is everyone making the rear hood lip? It almost looks like if I essentially remove the lip I can get the wiper mechanism under the hood. I'll need to relocate the master cylinder reservoir... but that is easy. I found an old 20 inch wiper, it allows me to put the mechanism farther forward where there is more clearance. I have a problem though, my roll over donor had a broken passenger wiper arm, so I'm looking for one from someone who doesn't need it. Sadly my extra Honda and Miata parts use a different spline. Question is the wiper arm a different configuration or length on the passenger side?

BTW, just measured my windshield to roll bar and to engine cover measurements to compare to the update we received re the top install... spot on! What are the odds of that, both sides exactly on their spec, a first for me on this build for sure!

Here is a pic of the hood/fender/windshield on mine.

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I did cut the return lip on the rearward side of the hood (to about 1/2" -91/16"), I think I also have my fenders, hood, bumper slightly more forward than some I've seen and I also might have the rearward support post for the fenders a little higher than others. I am completely happy with these final positions, everything works and lines up. I still have a smallish gap between the glass and the hood. I think I only have about 1 1/4" in the middle that tapers to 3/4" on each end. I'm hoping I can get a wiper through.

[RM1SepEx]

Did you use a brace under the nose to connect to the radiator frame? Mine does but it is only about 3/4 of an inch to the nose...

Your nose does seem to be a bit ahead of mine and your fender has a different shape where it meets the windshield.

Thanks for the detailed photo, helps a bunch!

BTW AWESOME job on the paint, I love the way the metallic pops!

Did you cut the doors vs mount the latches like the manual? Your gaps look reaaly good, I'm sure you have hrs in moving the panels around!

[Aloha818]

Did you use a brace under the nose to connect to the radiator frame? Mine does but it is only about 3/4 of an inch to the nose...

Your nose does seem to be a bit ahead of mine and your fender has a different shape where it meets the windshield.

Thanks for the detailed photo, helps a bunch!

BTW AWESOME job on the paint, I love the way the metallic pops!

Did you cut the doors vs mount the latches like the manual? Your gaps look reaaly good, I'm sure you have hrs in moving the panels around!


Happy 4th! On the nose I cut some 1/8" steel plate close to the width of the radiator support and about 3" or so wide and attached to the top side of the bottom lip of the center section of the bumper with 1/4" x 20 screws. Then I made a couple of angle brackets that go to the back and bottom side of the crossbrace. After I determined the placement for the bumper I marked and welded the angle brackets to the plate and with rivets attached the angle pieces to the crossbrace.

On the rear top fender area a big piece of gelcoat was missing, so I "sculpted" each side similar that matched the fender without having to add fiberglass and/or a lot of filler. I did use some though.

I mounted the door latches as per the FFR manual, minus the aluminum trim piece. I purchased some nice tapered head stainless screws and countersunk them in the fiberglass to be flush. Other than the slot going into the latch I have not made any cuts to the doors to fit and adjust. Now I will be cutting and fiberglassing some on them, but for interior cosmetic reasons (other than adding glass back where FFR trimmed the passenger front area too far).

Wayyyy too many hours! After getting everything thing as close as I could, I used filler on ALL panel edges to decrease the radius, straighten the slanted return lips, and sand to fit the gaps.

And thanks for liking my paint choice!

[metalmaker12]

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[RM1SepEx]

I used a piece of 2 x 2 aluminum on mine, the nose is only about 1/2 too far forward for it to bolt to the radiator support.

the top of my right front fender sucks as does the top of both rear fender and the two (tips) where the front clip meets the wheel wells. It is as if they didn't even spray gel coat into the corners of the mold and they didn't even try to force some fiberglass into the area either... I still want to attempt leaving it gel coat but how the hell do you repair a missing section of the damn body! FFR said we don't recommend bodywork practices, we gave you gel coat to repair... UGH I wish I could rescupt and paint, there is NFW that the right fender and left fender mirror each other. And just in front of the gas tank the body is all wavy... I've been researching boat repair sites... damn hard to get the finish I'd be satisfied with.

I'm pretty sure that I can get the stock wipers to fit under the hood and sweep the windshield. Not sure where they will park or if I'll need to modify the sweep. I'll see if I can mock something up, I used a 20 inch wiper on the driver's side and got the motor farther forward than the FFR design. You need to rotate the assy until it is horizontal and the wiper arm is thin enough to come out under the hood.

Did you hold your hood up a bit? I'm mocking up a hood support like Chris (Metalmaker) did, I found 5 1/8 inches in the center of the hood straight up from the bar between the shock towers gives a good curvature and more clearance. Of course the fender placement changes vs flat.

Hard to believe that Dave Smith said that the open house car had two hrs of Tony Zullo cleaning it up and buffing it. NFW

There is no physical way to hold a paint stick gap when the striker is twice that thick... :( add the .050 FFR aluminum plate and the screw heads and the door gap becomes huge. I've still not cut the square out of the door... I've been pondering insetting the striker and using a slot like FFR did for a cleaner look

That's why it is taking me so damn long... Their directions are incomplete or wrong and every time that I have a question it takes a day or two to identify how others have done it... I want to "borrow" the best ideas!

Raining cats and dogs today... built a new chicken run for the wife... 4 new hens growing up. Back to # 17 tomorrow!

[RM1SepEx]

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Chris, I can't tell from the photos if you had to cut the windshield surround or not, looks damn good in the photo though!

my hood is held up about 1/4 inch on the windshield surround exactly like the latest FFR manual page #420. I can thin down the hood some but I'm not comfortable making it less than 3/8 or so at the rear lip. I see your fender ends like poo too! :(

[metalmaker12]

Chris, I can't tell from the photos if you had to cut the windshield surround or not, looks damn good in the photo though!

my hood is held up about 1/4 inch on the windshield surround exactly like the latest FFR manual page #420. I can thin down the hood some but I'm not comfortable making it less than 3/8 or so at the rear lip. I see your fender ends like poo too! :(

I did not trim the front of the surround, but I rather thinned the hood edges and reinforced them with more resin and matte on the back side to fill the hollow tips. I would say my tips are about a 1/4 at there thinnest point. I highly recommend adding in resin and cloth in areas of higher stress ( mounting points etc)

[RM1SepEx]

I didn't either and there are no rattles...door closes like OE..even has that solid thud feeling

did you use the "T" weatherstripping between the inner panel and door skin shown in the manual page 415? It looks like it would provide some closed door cushion. I ask because I didn't get any of that weatherstripping material...

Thanks, Chris, I can see where if that area is thinned too much it will need to be reinforced. I'll thin it down all the way across and add some fiberglass material to strengthen it up along the entire edge, that will leave maximum room for the eventual wipers...

Did you use the mystery T weatherstripping at the bottom of your doors?

[metalmaker12]

did you use the "T" weatherstripping between the inner panel and door skin shown in the manual page 415? It looks like it would provide some closed door cushion. I ask because I didn't get any of that weatherstripping material...

Thanks, Chris, I can see where if that area is thinned too much it will need to be reinforced. I'll thin it down all the way across and add some fiberglass material to strengthen it up along the entire edge, that will leave maximum room for the eventual wipers...

Did you use the mystery T weatherstripping at the bottom of your doors?

I did not get any of this "T" weatherstripping and I would have prob not used it anyhow.

[RM1SepEx]

As I expected...

[Mechie3]

Here are some terrible photos.

http://i.imgur.com/44qHWL6.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/6KEGz4C.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/XFZ521Z.jpg

[RM1SepEx]

your fender corners are as crappy as mine... and your fit of fenders to windshield looks worse... when you put the hood on will is sit down w/o hitting the windshield surround?

I'm going to thin it down and reinforce like Chris did, it will be thin at the tip... I want it thin across the entire rear lip. After powering up the wiper assy today I'm getting more confident that I can get it under the hood. The wipers will park on the lower windshield. My wiper controls are wonky though... another issue to fix.

Check Aloha818 thread re the striker issue, mount them as far inboard as possible, no aluminum plate outside the door skin and because the arc of the door frame goes past the line where it meets the perpendicular door frame it fits! Slotted doors... YEAH

I've rethought my get it autocrossing as an unfinished car strategy in light of how many have gone boom... just pulled my entry from two events, perhaps I will run both karts or use Miata #3 as a bad weather backup

[Mechie3]

It doesn't hit the surround (the hood) though its very close.

[RM1SepEx]

Door fit/latch update:

SUCESS!!!!!!

Mounted as per the last discussion with Aloha818, since the door edge swings through an arc the clearance increases as you go past the point that it is tangential with the door cutout surface. So the striker needs to be positioned close to the edge of the door opening, past parallel compared to the frame tubes

Mine is in a bit more than his, I was concerned about clearance with the inner panel. It's too bad I started by using apporoximately the same position as shown in the manual, too much interferance with the door frame parallel to the frame tubes.

Here goes:

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you can see the position of the parts and my resulting door gaps, virtually even at paint stick thickness everywhere! The latch is nice and solid, the door squeaks by the striker by a whisker. I countersunk my 6MM flathead screws with a 3/8 drill bit into the fiberglass, to get them very close to flush.

video: http://youtu.be/YpyDCklVJcI

now to cut the back edge of the fender so the door will open farther. :o

[Frank818]

That's what a call good body news!!

[Mechie3]

So you moved the door mechanism farther towards the center line of the car?

[Boog]

How sturdy do the doors feel when shut? Do you think that because of way it was engineered or the materials used it will feel flimsy/flexible when used as an arm rest or if someone tries to support themselves with it when getting into the car?

[RM1SepEx]

So you moved the door mechanism farther towards the center line of the car?

yes, imagine a big circle made with the door frame. When the edge is at the tangent point is is longest, as it goes past you get quite a bit more space and you only need .250 or so if you eliminate the aluminum plate on the outside of the door skin. Look straight down when playing with the door and you can see what I mean. Aloha818 moved his in even farther, I thought it would cause the latch to interfere with the inside door skin. (I had to use the rear latches too and the child locks protrude 1/4) So I compromised with the position shown. And I do now have two small slotted holes in the fender/side panel to repair... no paint is slipping away.... you can NOT blindly follow FFR's directions, this isn't the first place that they caused me problems.

My strikers are in as far as the striker brackets would allow without modifying the slots at the height of my hinges.


How sturdy do the doors feel when shut? Do you think that because of way it was engineered or the materials used it will feel flimsy/flexible when used as an arm rest or if someone tries to support themselves with it when getting into the car?

They will never be as strong as a production car's doors. You have to remember that with a unibody car virtually every piece of metal adds structural rigidity... The doors will not take kindly to hanging on them when open. When closed, no problem with arms etc...

[AZPete]

Dan, I know I'll be thanking you a lot when I start on my body, but I just want to say how much I appreciate your write-ups about body fitting. You give good descriptions of the problems, attempts and solutions. I know I'll understand it more when I'm into it, and I'll be coming back to this thread a lot. Thanks!

[RM1SepEx]

A mistake I made early was doing the front end in the order of the manual. Fit the sides, use some extra braces like Wayne and Craig, Mine are simple pieces of 1 inch angle, the 5/8 front placement of the sides is essential and difficult to accurately measure. I'm trying to bend my engine cover around the roll bar, the GRM car has some cuts to relieve the cover.

Fit the nose and hood w/o the headlights like GRM and apparently Wayne did... Then trim the headlight buckets and "eyelids" to get the headlights to fit. I think you can get better fit where the tip of the fender hits the edge. Be prepared to trim and fit over and over for best fit. The GRM videos give a slight hint of the areas. I must have cut and fit the doors, installed and disassembled them 5-6 times. I needed to trim about 1/8 where the top of the door hit the windshield frame to get it positioned correctly

The panels are thin vs the other big pirece cars that FFR makes, heat, gravity and slow even pressure works really well to get them into position.

Some times I wonder if it is worth the time to document, when I tried to work with FFR to fix manual issues I got nowhere. Documenting and taking photos slows down the build!

[C.Plavan]

A mistake I made early was doing the front end in the order of the manual. Fit the sides, use some extra braces like Wayne and Craig, Mine are simple pieces of 1 inch angle, the 5/8 front placement of the sides is essential and difficult to accurately measure.

Just so I am clear on the 5/8th side measurement- Its 5/8 from the frame or 5/8 from the firewall piece that is attached there?

[RM1SepEx]

that is the first $64,000 question, isn't it. Based on order of assembly, the thin aluminum piece... but since it isn't precise we all get some variability, don't we. An example of giving us a "critical" dimension from a part that isn't very accurate...

Welcome to the factory five build your own car world! :) It's really the nature of the beast...

[RM1SepEx]

I bought the bullet, got a deal on early sti/o6+ oil pan windage tray and pickup due to concern about motors going boom. Bought the oil pump O ring and dipstick seal online. Too many oiling stories with these motors, our cars will increase the problem due to higher G force capabilities. I don't want to rebuild my 70K mile motor anytime soon, it would defeat the whole purpose behind buying a low mileage donor... Even for occasional autocross duty...

[ehansen007]

As I expected...

Hey guys, I also did not receive this weather stripping. Searched high and low for it. Here's what you do. Just about every HW store has the weather gasket for the bottom of the garage door but I found this for you guys. Just order it Prime and you'll have it in a day or two.. Just use this and cut the bottom and top off and you'll have enough to do both doors! $16.

http://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-RV1...dp/B002T45UG4.

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This one's already got one end cut off. I used the first ridge toward the middle as a guide. You'll also want to cut out small, semi-circles as recesses for the screw positions.

http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac177/ehansen007/818/818%20BUILD/3FC20221-08BE-45D1-A756-5AE54B864702_zpsprgndv0f.jpg (http://s897.photobucket.com/user/ehansen007/media/818/818%20BUILD/3FC20221-08BE-45D1-A756-5AE54B864702_zpsprgndv0f.jpg.html)

It doesn't cover all gaps though :)
http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac177/ehansen007/818/818%20BUILD/D7A39B55-770C-45CA-883B-37F60C124B37_zpsoucbtd7j.jpg (http://s897.photobucket.com/user/ehansen007/media/818/818%20BUILD/D7A39B55-770C-45CA-883B-37F60C124B37_zpsoucbtd7j.jpg.html)

And needs some trimming.

http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac177/ehansen007/818/818%20BUILD/C2B7C20B-515F-44FE-8240-85E79F10FD0E_zps9ybq71f8.jpg (http://s897.photobucket.com/user/ehansen007/media/818/818%20BUILD/C2B7C20B-515F-44FE-8240-85E79F10FD0E_zps9ybq71f8.jpg.html)

It does provide a more finished look though.

http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac177/ehansen007/818/818%20BUILD/052CD442-DD94-4AD8-B556-536EEDCAED3D_zpsxbznvp5d.jpg (http://s897.photobucket.com/user/ehansen007/media/818/818%20BUILD/052CD442-DD94-4AD8-B556-536EEDCAED3D_zpsxbznvp5d.jpg.html)

[RM1SepEx]

Nice looking door Erik!

[RM1SepEx]

Some add'l body tips

The side panels are fixed in the front at 5/8 in back, tight against the frame towards the center of the car. The bottoms follow the frame tube, tight up against the bottom. The side is tight to the cockpit. You have little choice to the position up to this point. The fenders should sit on the mounting plates over the rear suspension

now it gets a bit more complicated. You want to control body gaps and get them as even as you can. First take the engine cover and make sure that what will be vertical edges are the correct length to sit on the shelf made by the fenders.

next you can place the engine cover on the car. You will need to see how much of the engine cover to clearance at the roll bar. Some have done pretty significant cuts here. Tom W cut his a bunch http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27410&d=1396134676

I'm trying to keep the molded in edge, it is difficult to do so, the body needs persuasion. I prefer gravity and used it all over.

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I didn't cut mine at all! http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=30830&d=1404341437

Next you should use a piece of angle to hold the fenders at the correct distance for your gaps. I used a piece of 1/8 thick, 1 inch AL angle... it was/is marginal and could be stiffer. Once under the angled roll bar tubes. I just clamped it under the fender lip and drilled an 1/8 hole and cleco it in place at the right distance. I then moved the fenders to the proper distance and installed a 1/4 bolt/nut through the mounting pad.

I used the aluminum angle again for the rear clip. Make sure that the edges that mate together are flat, you may need to clean up the ends, I did. Erik's instructions are pretty good, here. You are trying to align the rear clip and hold the fender and rear hood spacing in 3 dimensions. My crappy hands can't even clamp the two surfaces together tight enough.

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Craig has a nice adj setup on his thread with left and right hand rod ends, very slick!

My gaps are not perfect but they are close... Started digging out voids... UGH

Also working to relocate and or replace the IC into the space between the right side vent, engine, and rear inner fender. Need to find a BPV adapter for it...

[RM1SepEx]

So I bought an intercooler to put in the side of the body in back of the right side vent. I'll be opening up the vent more for improved flow and adding a 10 inch electric fan. The mount will bolt to the side of the frame's 1 1/2 inch tube going up behind the door. I'm hoping that I can also duct air to the cone filter just behind it as well. I'll make an aluminum shroud to seal it to the side of the body. I'm using 2.5 inch tubing and silicone elbows etc... I'm also retaining the BPV, I plan on attempting to make a 1/4 inch steel plate matching the BPV shape and bolt pattern, installed inside the 2.75 inch tube into the intake. With rounded edges and button heads going from the inside out the flow should not be disrupted too much. I'm hoping I can get a good seal clamping this plate to the BPV sandwiching the .065 aluminum tube...

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I've set the rear wheel wells in place to check for exhaust clearance. I can hold 2 -3 inches easily to the fiberglass. I'm hoping that if I use header wrap around the downpipe, CAT and piping with aluminum reflective heat shrouds I can manage the heat w/o setting the body on fire.

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Next I'm working on some final body alignment and attachment. I used thin pinstriping to make an easy to follow line when I cut and trim the fiberglass panels. I then used a file to clean up the edge. I also used pinstriping to clearly mark the body lines. You can see here that I need to twist the lower section of the left fender to meet the line and provide some door clearance.

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I've also just realized that bolting the engine cover from the side will interfere with the aluminum panel (# 41 in the FFR exploded aluminum panel drawing) Even when I change to an end mount like Aloha818 did I can't see how that panel "fits" and finishes that area. Someone got a photo????

[wallace18]

Looking good Dan!

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks Tom, Life's events have finally given me time to focus on J Lo again!

Do you have any photos of that triangular area inside the upper door latch to engine cover area... I can't seem to figure out how that aluminum panel fits and finishes the area!

[wallace18]

Thanks Tom, Life's events have finally given me time to focus on J Lo again!

Do you have any photos of that triangular area inside the upper door latch to engine cover area... I can't seem to figure out how that aluminum panel fits and finishes the area!
Sorry I do not. Car is all tucked away in enclosed trailer. If I can photo it when I deliver I'll post then.

[RM1SepEx]

It looks to me like they need to be installed between the frame and the latch bracket, its the only way it makes any sense part number 80177, shown in exploded view as # 41

[Frank818]

Dan, I can't stop admire you courage with all the body issues and work. It's just mind-blowing or mind-boggling, whichever you want, to me.
I wish I could help somehow but unfortunately, I know nothing about FB and you are WAY WAY WAY WAY ahead of me in your build. The light is coming out of the tunnel for you, though! And no, it's not a train heading on to you. :) You are the train.

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks Frank, I'll just keep plodding through. I could get more help from friends but it would reduce the satisfaction of doing everything myself, wouldn't it!

[RM1SepEx]

Bad news from my Neurologist, I'm experiencing my first MS attack in 20 years. Time to test, poke, probe MRI, pump with steriods... UGH

I had to cancel my annual trip to Loring AFB for an awesome high speed autocross... I'm sad!

I do get to stay home and plod along on the 818 tho, life is still damn good!

so... onto the inner fenders in the rear...

How much of the outside edge should we expect to trim? How well did your fender liners line up vs the frame and body? The tab that mounts above the wheel is very critical... I have to position mine so that it doesn't line up with the frame tube for best fit... is this typical or do I need to do more body tweaking? And did anyone else find that the fender liner is a bit too short to line up with the fiberglass in the rear?

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A teaser, my new IC with its 10 inch fan 32100

[wallace18]

Sorry to hear about the MS stuff. Marsha and I will pray for a quick recovery. Glad you can at least work on the 818 some. It is looking good. Nice intercooler.

[Aloha818]

Bad news from my Neurologist, I'm experiencing my first MS attack in 20 years. Time to test, poke, probe MRI, pump with steriods... UGH

I had to cancel my annual trip to Loring AFB for an awesome high speed autocross... I'm sad!

I do get to stay home and plod along on the 818 tho, life is still damn good!

so... onto the inner fenders in the rear...

How much of the outside edge should we expect to trim? How well did your fender liners line up vs the frame and body? The tab that mounts above the wheel is very critical... I have to position mine so that it doesn't line up with the frame tube for best fit... is this typical or do I need to do more body tweaking? And did anyone else find that the fender liner is a bit too short to line up with the fiberglass in the rear?

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A teaser, my new IC with its 10 inch fan 32100

Sorry for your attack and related missed auto cross.

I just worked on my fender wells this week also. I had been kind of procrastinating as by the FFR manual and the flimsy aluminum I thought this was going to be a little cheesy. But I was really surprised at how well it actually all went together and looked at the end. On mine I had to scribe/cut the radius of the aluminum to the lower fender, from about 0" up 6" from the bottom up to a max of about 5/8" +/- at the turn in at the bottom. Your fourth pic shows about the same as mine before I whittled on it some. I left about 1/2" of the very bottom of the fiberglass showing. I also had to cut the notch for the fender/bumper joint on the bottom by about 1/2" to get a good fit. Then after to add the rubber edge trim it really looks good and seals well.

[RM1SepEx]

how does that triangle at the bottom line up with the fiberglass,? 1st photo

Mine is short by a bit... I may need to add some material. I included a photo showing how short it is if I align the top tab

How well does the top tab align with the tube? I had to offset mine about .2 for best fit, front and back as you can see in the top row 3rd photo

I'll cut some moore and try it with the rubber... as usual the manual says slide on the rubber and rivet in place! LOL

The good news is that there is plenty of room for my 3 " exhaust including a high flow cat and a high flow muffler

[AZPete]

Dan, I'm sorry to hear of your recent MS attack and will keep you in my thoughts. I'm amazed at all that you do considering your physical challenges.
I'm studying all your posts about the body and it will all be useful when I start hanging body pieces. Thanks!
Did you get your steering wheel and cruise control finished? I have not been able to test my cruise yet because I need to go at least 30 mph somewhere in the neighborhood . . . soon.
That new IC looks good but to be sure it's the right size, send it to me! :rolleyes:
Pete

[RM1SepEx]

Funny Pete...

I have all my steering wheel stuff done but I have not tested the cruise. I made my 1 1/4 spacer out of aluminum last week but I need to PC before install and I need some looong 5 mm screws, locally they are not stocked... Now I need to make my PBV adaptor. A plate with a 1 1/4 od aluminum tube, and a 1 1/4 aluminum tube welded to the 2 3/4 tube into the throttle body.

That IC is about 40% bigger

[Frank818]

Ugh, sorry about that MS crap, Dan. :(

[RM1SepEx]

S*** happens Frank, could be worse... the drugs typically reduce attacks 30-40%. I was having massive attacks every 6 months in the early 90's... numb from the waist down July 91, December 91 from the chest down. That's two big time MS plaques in very bad areas, the spinal cord. 20 years without an attack using the first drug developed for MS is close to a miracle. :eek:

Slow and steady, J Lo will have her curvy behind out there soon enough! It's not like I have nothing to drive! :rolleyes:

[Frank818]

Numb from the waist down, that's bad for... oops I won't say. :) lolll
Is that disease reducing life time? Or just making it harder to live? (I read wikipedia but YMMV) I know that's way off topic, but it's about you on your own thread.
I guess 20years without an attack (thumbs up man!!!) means it's not affecting your life time much, which is perfect. I hope you can deeply taste every second driving your 818, once all the body issues are fixed, obviously. Speaking of which, any date you think it's possible all will be done, license plate and ready to drive?

[Aloha818]

how does that triangle at the bottom line up with the fiberglass,? 1st photo

Mine is short by a bit... I may need to add some material. I included a photo showing how short it is if I align the top tab

How well does the top tab align with the tube? I had to offset mine about .2 for best fit, front and back as you can see in the top row 3rd photo

I'll cut some moore and try it with the rubber... as usual the manual says slide on the rubber and rivet in place! LOL

The good news is that there is plenty of room for my 3 " exhaust including a high flow cat and a high flow muffler

Mine is the same, but as you scribe/cut to better match the fender it moves the aluminum in to get more coverage on the fiberglass below, also I pushed the aluminum back so I had about 1/2"-3/4" of the fiberglass showing on the bottom in front of the aluminum, this front and rear of the rear wheel openings. This gave me plenty of room for 3 rivets for attachment.

I centered my top tab on the frame, I think a little lower than what your showing.

[RM1SepEx]

Interesting day, all of a sudden my alarm system started going off! I had to remove the keyless entry unit box to turn it off! Any ideas on what happened?

[metalmaker12]

Mine did that when I had my headlights wired wrong.

[RM1SepEx]

I didn't finish wiring them yet... No wiring changes have been made lately

[RM1SepEx]

Chomping at the bit to do more, it's hard to rest and recover / follow doctors orders!

Thanks to Wleehendricks I received the stickers to hide Impreza on my gauges, you can also see the nice CF trim and zeros across the ODO (sorry for the crappy photo! BTW I used a headlight repair kit to buff out the gauge pod plastic, it had tons of scratches, polished up nicely!

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I fabricated my 1 1/4 spacer for the steering wheel, had to order 50 mm long 5MM x .8 pitch stainless button heads to assemble, my center hub has been powder coated orange since this photo, matching my vinyl graphics, it is getting the FFR logo lasered on it, I may adapt the FFR, boxer logo for it, the spacer will be black as soon as I hit the blast cabinet and PC equipment next week

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started inserting the nutserts to attach all the body panels... struggling with drilling those damn holes under the car, one of the more severe issues with my disability I need to eat more spinache

My IC relocation parts have arrived, brackets designed, I've made up an adapter for the stock BPV, waiting for a friend to tig the aluminum together. 1 1/4 tubing to connect the BPV, 2.5 inch IC piping, 40% more IC area, the total piping length is only about 7 feet. 10 inch fan, air from the side vent, I need to get creative with the side "scoop"

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[Goldwing]

I have trouble with under car work too. My disability doesn't have a name yet, but lying on my back or awkward neck positions trigger problems that flare for a couple weeks. I'm not looking forward to the hole drilling underneath either.

[RM1SepEx]

I'm finding the key is to be as fully supported as possible. The lift helps to position everything at the exact distance so I don't reach. There are so many things to do I'm just bouncing around. 5-6 holes is my limit at one time, overhead work just kills me.

I did have to spend a couple hrs on lawn tractor work today tho...

My son is home for a couple days... we had lobster rolls twice today! YUM

[Frank818]

Nice s/w spacer, I can clearly see that my NRG QR is quite thicker than that.

Dan what is your product to repair and polish headlight (lexan and stuff like probably)?

[RM1SepEx]

Frank, I used some pads I bought on sale... doesn't really matter any of the stuff to clean up/polish headlights should work in 5 minutes or so. I had some mean and ugly scratches!

[Frank818]

The product I used 10 years ago was not working at all. I hope technology changed since.

[Mechie3]

I used a 3 or 4 piece set from 3M. Several sanding pads and a final buff pad. You need to recoat it with a UV resistant coating or it will likely yellow again (headlights will, that is).

[RM1SepEx]

Made in USA, CCP 5 min headlight lens restorer, comes with backing pad, 6 foam pads, just spray with water, run under max rpm of 1200

www.customchemicalpkg.com

[RM1SepEx]

Creeping along... :)

Got my steering wheel parts and oil cap back from laser engraving, my camera doesn't do the orange PC justice...

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Also working on the final positioning of my new, relocated IC, I'll be needing a fairly large side scoop...

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[wallace18]

Very cool Dan!

[AZPete]

I agree: Very Cool, Dan.
I am admiring a lot of your upgrades and I recall how I intended to build my 818 close to stock but then you and other guys keep coming up with very cool parts (that could be a brand name!). Now I've got upgrades all over the place and the biggest weight-saving is in my wallet. Oh well, it's fun.

Oh, wait.
I'm not the only guy who was trying to stay close to stock:
Dan in Post #1: "I'll attempt to build a close to stock example so others have a baseline." ;) ;) :eek:

[metalmaker12]

I doubled my budget!!!

[RM1SepEx]

It's a long story but I'll shorten it...

Delays of BO parts made the build meander

I keep seeing areas that I'm not very happy with the FFR solution and there is a better way... Attitudes change as you go. Hell the first panel that their manual has you install makes you drill a hole in the wrong place... It just keeps going from there.

My health's been a real PITA... I'm pretty sure I just can't do all those things twice

The stock IC location is horrible, just can't work, The wipers, an afterthought

BTW Craig may be packaging an IC kit so you won't have to custom fabricate anything to do an air to air on the side...

I wish I was comfortable doing the composite stuff, a CF side scoop would be AWESOME... my capabilities are more towards aluminum.

The good news is I finally started some PT to work on my latest issues... I also have an MRI coming up next week, hopefully the pictures won't show much degradation

I'm struggling a bit after my first MS attack in 20+ years, can't complain, just attempting to readjust.

Took 3 tries to get my hot tub fixed! Every time I fixed a leak another showed up downstream. I had to dig out 10 cubic feet of foam to get to the flexible PVC piping and fittings. What fun!

Wife's gone for a week! Perhaps my last "bonding" with Danielle.... To Simmons in Boston the end of the month! Whew!!!

Pete, what goes around comes around... I seem to remember someone helping me with the wiring and physical operation in the steering column!

I wish I wasn't so slow... :mad:

Chris, I don't do budgets... BUT I'm up to.... drum roll as I dig up the spreadsheet

$6300 plus the kit

Tom, I struggled to NOT buy your car... It was such a STEAL

[Frank818]

Dan, any pic of most if not all the car with the IC relocation? I find this one too close up for a good picture in my head.

[RM1SepEx]

just look at your right side vent, I chopped out about a 1 ft x 1 ft area. Believe me cutting stuff away is a difficult process. As you cut everything slides around, I could have cut less in the rearmost top area, but I did need clearance for the inlet tube. I can't do much re a wider view, its up on jackstands and my garage is a MESS... (understatement to the MAX)

My Bar and Plate IC is 40% bigger than stock and has a 10 inch fan attached to it. It takes about 7 feet of 2.5 pipe to run from the Turbo to the IC and back to the throttle body. I'm using my stock BPV and making an adapter to port it through a 1.25 tube into the tube going into the throttle body. Since my goal is 240 or so at the wheels, it should be more than enough.

As Chris indicated in his thread just today... POO is not a strong enough description for the stock location in a mid engined car. There is no airflow in that area and the stock IC has 30% of its area covered by that Y pipe contraption.

Once I put a nice scoop on the side and redirect the air from the little top IC vents to my intake... I should get pretty good airflow and be able to keep it cool

I just thought to myself in the shower (where all great minds wander, unless you are showering with a friend to save water) Chris hit the nail on the head months ago! The manual is not much more than a reference guide, you can't really follow it to build the car. It's incomplete, and not all in the correct order.

Example... check out where they put the puke bottle... there is an aluminum panel that goes over that frame rail... can't be put there! I'll be using those nutserts for my engine side firewall pieces... Which should have been done before my engine was installed. There must be 40 -50 examples... We just need to accept that fact and deal with it.

i'm REALLY worried about engine movement. Every video that I've seen makes me want stiffer engine and trans mounts AND reworking the torque arm setup on the transaxle....

[Mechie3]

I have cusco knock off engine mounts. They're pretty solid.

[Erik W. Treves]

Dan, I put the torque arm on the rear of the transaxle and my engine was rock solid

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23297&d=1384211525

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23296&d=1384211523

[RM1SepEx]

That's my first step... you did it on the rear of the transaxle... hum... creative and provides the most leverage too! very nice. I bet a simple torque are arm going towards the side off the engine might really help with the engine's rocking force control

[GUNS]

I just ordered some Group-N trans and engine mounts. I'll let you know how much of a difference it makes.

[RM1SepEx]

I didn't like the way they finished above the door latch inside the car. The photos that I have seen have carpet stretched over the two bolts. I made an aluminum cover...

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Now to seal up the space and attach it with a couple screws and nutserts. It will be covered with black vinyl.

I'm also making a new aluminum panel for the sides of the foot wells, above where the water tubes pass through, the black vinyl will be easier and it will hold my 6 1/2 speakers.

[Frank818]

Is there a reason why you didn't put your fatmat inside the fuel tank's alu panel instead of outside in the cockpit, like you do?

[RM1SepEx]

nope... could easily have been installed on the other side, will be covered with vinyl anyway

My reverse trike had nothing on the aluminum, between just an electric hum and the rocks bouncing off it was enough to drive you crazy... So I'm putting it everywhere that I can. I did get carried away though, it doesn't need to cover perfectly to dampen the majority of the sound!

I need to make my new, higher aluminum center console soon too. I wish I had the newer aluminum pieces to use as a starting point.

[Frank818]

I asked cuz I wonder if vinyl will reveal the waves on the fatmat material. Fatmat is not perfectly smooth, as per the picture, so I guess the vinyl will follow the waves.

[RM1SepEx]

the vinyl is pretty heavy, worst case use 1/16 foam to pad it up a bit, won't be glued everywhere...

[RM1SepEx]

Busy day worked on that inside corner, another little tab, a couple rivets, ready to upholster. The aluminum tab on the top will be used with a Dzus fastener to hold down the engine cover, no hood pin

Here is a shot of my finished center hood support. It holds the hood a full inch higher than the FFR piece of aluminum with the bulb molding on the top! More room for wipers!

I'm mounting my rear CF locking hood pins to the side panels not the rear clip. I had to space it down with aluminum spacers. I made a simple bolt up with a point on it to accurately center the holes to be drilled... Tomorrow perhaps?

The gold line shows where I'll shorten the trunk hinges... the rest gets in the way, easy to drill a new hole and relocate that second bolt

I got my aluminum IC bracket back from welding. You can see that the core will be fully exposed to the airstream. Some simple ducting and a sweet scoop and it will be all set. The fan is 10 inch diameter.

Some shots of my first mock up of the IC tubing. I need to swap out another 2 1/2 tube with a 45 degree bend. Perhaps 2 inch would fit better and reduce turbo lag. (at the expense of increased drag)

I made up a BPV manifold and used a 1.25 aluminum tube to dump into the intake tract's 2 3/4 inlet tube.

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[Kurk818]

Im assuming you are going to build some sort of scoop to channel air more directly into the intercooler?

[RM1SepEx]

yes... short term aluminum (I have the tools and technique) long term CF (Zero DB Motorsports! :cool:)

[Kurk818]

Im planning on building some CF ones as well. I plan on using the donor front mount intercooler as a rear mount and duct the side scoops towards it. I will have fender flares to accomodate my 295's so i plan on having some pretty aggresive scoops :D

[RM1SepEx]

Visited FFR yesterday, thanks to Joe Scott for spending 2 hrs with me as I crawled over the red 818S checking out the areas that I had questions with

First monumental update, a trunk does exist, it is made for the use of the FFR exhaust adapter and a stock downpipe. I was not allowed to take photos as it isn't finalized. The top does fit in the trunk. It finishes the area well however it isn't very deep due to the position of the downpipe using the FFR kit exhaust adapter.

Here is a front photo of the hood with the FFR wipers, Joe told me that it is a bit close to the left wiper stalk so it isn't quite ready to ship... it will be soon

I was able to work a deal to obtain the sheetmetal console pieces to replace my original fiberglass ones.

The padded dash and doors look very nice, sadly I didn't realize that a CF spoiler was available... I'm working that one, I'm sure that Joe will work with us.

The top is high quality and getting in and out was OK even with it up. The rear angle is awkward but the car's design pretty much dictates where it has to go. Storage in the trunk is a def plus.

Since I'm using a bellmouth and almost straight down Cat and exhaust I can make a bigger, deeper trunk. The added a support just behind the IC to hold up the engine cover, I'll need to add one as I did on the hood. My hood is a bit farther forward and hinged. Using a 5 inch standoff from the 1 in square tube gives me about a full inch more clearance for wipers, hopefully I can get something under the hood with only the wiper arms visible at the park position

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[AZPete]

Thanks, Dan.

[nkw8181]

FFR's wiper solution looks pretty clean. thanks for the pics.

[projectrally]

Dan,

I've been threatening to come visit for way too long, but now it looks like you're going to be seeing entirely too much of me. I'm picking up my kit on Wednesday...

[RM1SepEx]

You are welcome to drop by any time... are you all set to pick it up?

Talk to Joe Scott when you are there, perhaps he can give you my new Carbon spoiler and save me $15 shipping!

[projectrally]

You are welcome to drop by any time... are you all set to pick it up?

Talk to Joe Scott when you are there, perhaps he can give you my new Carbon spoiler and save me $15 shipping!

I am going down to do a little last minute shooting for the project we've been working on. I'm taking my father-in-law's 03 Suburban, and I'm going to just rent a U-Haul 12x6 open trailer. I talked to Nate Johnson and he said that the kits are packed well enough to make the 3-hour drive back in an open trailer. All the boxes will go in the 'burban.

Happy to pick up the spoiler for you. Shoot Joe an email to let him know, and I'll remind him while I'm down there. We'll have to make it a point to meet up this weekend because I'm flying out to Monterey on Monday for the week. Mazda saw Racing the Rock and they want to show it at their big 25th anniversary bash for the Miata at Laguna Seca. The ND is getting unveiled next week while we're out there, and Tracy and I were given invites to the unveiling. We'll get to see it two days before the public!

[RM1SepEx]

why rent a trailer? as long as you have trailer brakes use my 8.5 x 16 enclosed Thule

[Aloha818]

Visited FFR yesterday, thanks to Joe Scott for spending 2 hrs with me as I crawled over the red 818S checking out the areas that I had questions with

First monumental update, a trunk does exist, it is made for the use of the FFR exhaust adapter and a stock downpipe. I was not allowed to take photos as it isn't finalized. The top does fit in the trunk. It finishes the area well however it isn't very deep due to the position of the downpipe using the FFR kit exhaust adapter.

Here is a front photo of the hood with the FFR wipers, Joe told me that it is a bit close to the left wiper stalk so it isn't quite ready to ship... it will be soon

I was able to work a deal to obtain the sheetmetal console pieces to replace my original fiberglass ones.

The padded dash and doors look very nice, sadly I didn't realize that a CF spoiler was available... I'm working that one, I'm sure that Joe will work with us.

The top is high quality and getting in and out was OK even with it up. The rear angle is awkward but the car's design pretty much dictates where it has to go. Storage in the trunk is a def plus.

Since I'm using a bellmouth and almost straight down Cat and exhaust I can make a bigger, deeper trunk. The added a support just behind the IC to hold up the engine cover, I'll need to add one as I did on the hood. My hood is a bit farther forward and hinged. Using a 5 inch standoff from the 1 in square tube gives me about a full inch more clearance for wipers, hopefully I can get something under the hood with only the wiper arms visible at the park position

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Thanks for sharing your trip photos with us. Looking forward to the trunk details, but the hacked up hood for the wiper is awful! Actually, beyond awful!

[AZPete]

Projectrally, the U-Haul 6 x 12 trailer has a narrower tail gate. FFR can lower the kit into the trailer but then you won't be able to roll it out on a dolly or drag it out until you remove the body panels. Once the body panels are removed, the frame will fit through the rear gate. Don't ask how I know.

[RM1SepEx]

MRI yesterday, PT for my shoulder today.... MRI shows active MS at 5th and 6th cervical, not good... :mad: same place that made me numb from the chest down in 1991. Working through the "issues" but very frustrating.

PT on my shoulder not going well either, was told to stop working on the car, unknown if the MS is attributing to the shoulder inflamation

GRRRRR

Weather has been great, enjoying the convertibles and bikes, life is good

[wleehendrick]

Hi Dan, sorry to hear that. Best wishes for your recovery/management.

[AZPete]

Damn, I hate to hear that news! Dan, I wish you speedy improvement.

[metalmaker12]

Godspeed my brother!

[projectrally]

Dan, that's terrible news. I'm truly sorry to hear it.

Thanks for the offer to use your trailer. My father-in-law has a trailer I'm going to use. 14x6 open construction trailer. Heading down to pick up the kit morning. Should arrive at FFR tomorrow morning around 10AM. Can't wait.

[bstuke]

Sorry to hear Dan, hang in there buddy..

[Frank818]

Sorry again Dan. Any ETA on fixing these issues or some "parts" are BOed? :)

[GUNS]

Sorry to hear this Dan. Here's to a quick recovery.

[projectrally]

Carbon spoiler acquired! It's sitting in my office wrapped in foam and plastic.

[RM1SepEx]

Adam, still planning on stopping by soon? Many B?O on your 818R?

Edit: Adam swapped to an S! Thanks for getting my spoiler.

Received my addl 45 for the IC plumbing today, should be able to finalize mockup soon.

Can't do any drilling or nutserts by order of my Dr. and PT :mad: Did work on a small footwell mod today:

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This allows for a much cleaner finish of the sidewall with vinyl. I have to cut the fatmatted aluminum for speaker magnet clearance...

[RM1SepEx]

Been a while, shoulder range better, rotator cuff, worse... never ends!
\
Did get under car finally, removed/repaired rear transaxle cover leak, I had to use a stone to make sure the cover was flat, I had a couple high spots and a slow weeping leak

Removed headers, mounts and oil pan, pickup windage tray

replaced motor mounts and transaxle mout with Cusco units, replaced stock 05 oil pan with STI pan, pickup and windage tray. Installing heat shield headers to fuel tank today

obtained new aluminum FFR shifter, found it was almost 3/8 too wide for the tunnel. Had a friend machine a circular spacer, narrow cable holder, narrow steel cable "washers" to fit

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[GUNS]

Dan,

I have a transaxle cover leak as well. I figured I just did a poor job at sealing it. I'll look into making sure it's all even. Let us know your impressions of the shifter once installed.

[AZPete]

I'm glad you are back working on your 818 again. The studs are in the mail.
Pete

[RM1SepEx]

The shifter is much more positive feeling, it comes from Ktuned, just like Wayne's. I think that the plastic shifter felt spongy because the two cable holders at the front were too flimsy and they distorted a bit adding slop. This one is very nice looking but I'm still mounting it inside the tunnel. The knob is back ordered from FFR.

I broke down and ordered insulated garage doors so I'll be able to do more work over the winter. I need to be able to drive to next year's open house...

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks for those studs Pete :) I'll try to put them to good use. See those brackets that you asked about right in front of my IC Pete?

multi part heat shield work ongoing... not sure how much to leave open to the elements, much harder to do after engine install

Mocked up the side mount IC and related tubing. I should have used the smaller 2 inch tubes vs. 2.5 inch, the clearances are tight. Won't know how it will work until I fire her up again. I might have to alter positioning slightly when I remount my body panels. I hope it goes much faster this time.

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I also did a bunch of wire relocation etc... I'll be able to mount the fuse box in the center tunnel. I plan on having it much higher than the FFR examples, so I can make a sort of easily removable tray over the fuse box for quick access. 35030

I'm playing with the shifter location as well so modifications to the FFR aluminum console are coming too...

BTW the shifter knob will be here tomorrow, fastest BO delivery ever from FFR! :) !!

[wallace18]

Very nice work Dan!

[Tamra]

Looking great! Glad you are feeling better

[JAubin]

Nice work on the BPV adapter, very clean way to do it...the fuse panel location looks good too. I've been planning on doing a large removable panel somewhere on the console to access the fuse boxes, this sparks some good thought. Glad to see you back at it!

[Frank818]

Dan, the picture makes the IC piping so damn close to the tower brace, that's probably part of the tight fighting you mentioned?

I see your tunnel alu does not have a top section? You cut it? Sorry if I missed that pages ago.

[RM1SepEx]

Frank, IC piping, yup clearance is tight, I expect clearance to increase when I re-attach the header and up pipe, turbo is floating right now. Using 2 inch tubing gives much better clearance, I may just order it and swap it out, the 2 vs 2.5 discussion is a big controversy... increased drag vs decreased volume and less lag. I don't think that it will matter much at say 500 cfm having 7 feet of 2.5 or 2 inch tubing isn't much air volume (7 ft of 2 inch tube is only 1.5 cubic feet of volume) 500cfm is 8.33 cubic ft per second so the lag due to pipe vulume at 500cfm is only .2 seconds or so, 2.5 pipe might get closer to .3 seconds of airflow at 500cfm

I chopped off the top of the tunnel months ago, I plan on a higher tunnel all the way to the console. I think my shifter will be farther back than FFR's revised location. I'm thinking a cup holder insert over the fuse box... I'm also considering an alternate EBrake handle setup, I'd prefer it on the passenger side of the tunnel

The final location will be a bit different too after I remount my body panels and adjust position to fit. I went to Cusco mounts to reduce movement and plan on adding the other brace if I can to further limit movement.

I need Craig's CF air scoops for the side too

[Mechie3]

Let me know when you need cup holders. I know a guy with access to a CNC and stuff like that. ;) haha

[Frank818]

Dan, I have a 2.5" turbo outlet going down to 2.25" piping. I don't think it's optimal when you have a smaller piping than the outlet. The turbo needs to push harder per rev due to restriction and it might be more difficult to reach higher pressures. Would also increase temps somewhat. So far I have no facts, but I have spent years thinking about that in during my sleep. I cannot try 2.5" as my cooler is 2.25" anyway. Maybe 2.25" could be a good compromise for you?

Who is using that passenger side ebrake so far?

[RM1SepEx]

The std wrx has a 1.75 turbo outlet, my IC is 2.5 in and out. Many turbos in excess of 300 whp still use only 2 inch tubing. I think I'll end up with a minimum clearance of 1/2 with my 2.5 tubes, 2 inch would give me another 1/4. The throttle body is 2.75 inches. It's a tough trade off increased volume and lag vs increased resistance to flow with a smaller tube...

[RM1SepEx]

Question: Why does it always seem to be when you are finally going to mig something at 5 PM that you setup up the weld and pull the trigger to 1/2 inch of mig wire and an empty spool? Naturally the local hardware store closes at 5PM UGH

I'll work on some other stuff tonight, I found that the nice nutsert tool's face is too far out for std mcmaster rivets so I had to grind it a bit or it strips out the threads vs controlled crush of the nutsert! Do I put the rear wheel well nutserts facing the interior of the car or towards the tire???
\received the B/O shift knob, wrong thread, apparently for some reason Jim S had changed the shift shaft on my unit, new shaft already in hand and installed!! I found the new shifter to fall right where I like it if I mount it in the original FFR location, naturally that isn't where it needs to be to fit the new aluminum console. Looks like some more fabrication work is in order! :)

[RM1SepEx]

Busy Day! finally welded up 90% of my exhaust, not sure exactly how I'll finish up the exit through the body. screwed up, lost my balance, got a nasty burn on my hand from the hot weld... oops, at least my hands are numb and messed up, took about an hr before the pain level was at my normal level!

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You can see how the shifter looks when positioned in the original position defined by the FFR build manual. The new shifter is quite a bit lower and falls at hand nicely relative to the steering wheel.

Another body tip: when the front edge is positioned 5/8 back from the front frame edge you can take a tape measure and hook the end in the square top tube behind the door opening and it is exactly 8 inches to the body's edge as shown. You can use this measurement to confirm that both sides are even

A side note:

Like Brooker, I visited FFR and discussed my "issues" with the kit personally with Dave. My attempts through email and PM's didn't work as Dave gets too many emails etc and they get "lost" If you have issues, call Dave directly, he will respond and work to make you happy.

He agreed that my kit's body was not up to the quality of their kits and that I shouldn't be expected to repair the poorly filled edges and voids. He also agreed that my powder coat was defective. I also suggested improvements in the prep for the powder coat with an increase in price for the service, Dave's response was as Brooker indicated. I requested and was given a refund of my powder coat purchase price, I used that refund to purchase the new billet shifter.

Unlike Brooker my kit is much farther into assembly. I was given the option of replacing the badly molded panels and we exchanged 8 pieces. FFR had new body panels molded to replace mine in white.

I've started reassembly with the new panels. The hood and both side panels are quite a bit different from my original panels (serial # 17) and are far better quality. I'm pretty sure that the molds have been revised. They line up better and it's easier to get the gaps even.

I am still planning on an initial build in white gel coat. I also feel that FFR could benefit from some quality program development. Even tho that is what I used to do for work as a manufacturing consultant, a job doing it for them isn't in my future! :rolleyes:

I could not agree more with Brooker's assessment, I'd consider buying from FFR again, but I also can't just accept that it's a kit and just deal with it and move on. I will indeed end up with a kick*** car when it is complete.

[Frank818]

I'm happy you found a solution to your body panels endless work!

[RM1SepEx]

Question for those with mounted bodies...

I'm installing my new panels, I found that I'm having difficulty with my new driver's side panel. On my original panels when I placed the lower front edge 5/8 back from the edge of the aluminum/tube I measured exactly 8 inches from the inside edge of the square tube high behind the seats as shown here

35918

now on my driver's side panel if I place it 5/8 back it is only 7 7/8 to that edge and I can't fit the heavy door latch bracket in place, it can't rotate with the slots provided and seat to the rear of the fiberglass.

I feel that it is far more important to get the rear area and doors square than the lower edge. My original panels were 5/8 back in the lower edge and 8 inches at the rear on both sides...

I've also found that the new driver's panel doesn't seem to have the gas cap assembly seat as low in the body, the top edge seats above the body line... I think that I remember the original being a bit lower. It also didn't have the clearly defined divot in the center to locate where to drill the hole for the cap.

thoughts?

[RM1SepEx]

Almost ready to restart, had a delay while I was recovering from a snow storm, 47 hrs on the 10,000 watt generator.

remounting new side panels, need to develop best way to locate holes in frame and transfer them to the new panels. I've located both sides at 8 inches from the sq tube to the edge of the door vs using the 5/8 to lower front edge.

I recut my side mount IC duct and mounted up the IC bracket. The 2.5 inch tubing fits and works but 2 inch would allow for more clearance. I cut my trunk hinges to allow for more trunk.

You can see that my intake can also receive air from the side scoop, I'll be working on internal ducting and the 10 inch fan mounting.

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You can also see that I have good clearance on my finalized exhaust/muffler setup. The only challenge left is placement of the hole for the exhaust tip to exit. Video with sound soon?

[Frank818]

It's true, you gotta do things twice since you got your new panels. But the other panels weren't going anywhere anyway!

[RM1SepEx]

Oops, almost forgot, I bent the louvers from Craig, they will look awesome after powder coating them! I did rescale his template to leave clearance for my white vinyl trim like Aloha818 used

I've also test fit Craig's turbo shield, it will work with my turbo blanket to keep temps down. I am going to have to add a hole for clearance for the wideband O2 sensor in the bell mouth tho

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[metalmaker12]

Oops, almost forgot, I bent the louvers from Craig, they will look awesome after powder coating them! I did rescale his template to leave clearance for my white vinyl trim like Aloha818 used

I've also test fit Craig's turbo shield, it will work with my turbo blanket to keep temps down. I am going to have to add a hole for clearance for the wideband O2 sensor in the bell mouth tho
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Not to burst your bubble on your intercooler tubing routing, but down the road if you need to move stuff for heat reasons, the intake manifolds on these cars can be reversed. This could help with your design even further. You going to be up and running by spring, we gotta meet up or meet at open house.

[RM1SepEx]

When I get around to removing the TGVs I'll look into an intake manifold rotation and revision, thanks for the heads up!

New insulated garage doors arriving on Friday, will do everything that I can to get to the open house. It may depend on the back surgery consult for my bulging disc issue. Neurologist didn't like the MRI when we finally sat down and went over it last week.

I'm interested to see how much less engine movement with the Cusco mounts, perhaps I won't need that torque strut off the transaxle that I've been thinking about

[metalmaker12]

I am well aware of disc issues, my Wife just had a discentomy on L5S1 two weeks ago( 2nd time )The herniated disc material was pressing right on her nerve. She's doing much better minus the procedure recovery. Good luck man!! I hope to see ya there!!

The stiffer mount should negate any concerns, the movement should be much less.

[Frank818]

Dan,

For the latches into the door, you bought Type 316 Stainless Steel—DIN 7991-A4 M6 × 1 x 30mm?

[Frank818]

Dan, another one. If I recall you use 10-24 rivnuts? They don't seem to support thicker material than 0.225", but the body is 0.125 and I assume the frame is 0.125, which makes it 0.250". So how were they holding up? Maybe the frame is not 1/8 thick.

[RM1SepEx]

Frank, you have your dimensions confused

first I use 10-24 because that is the tool that I have, a 10-32 would provide a stronger thread
I also use #10 screws because it is much harder to install stronger 1/4 x 20 nutserts, I've got a bunch of physical issues :(
next, the nutsert application thickness of concern is the actual thickness of the material that is "clamped" by the nutsert when the tool distorts it, this does not include the body thickness, that defines how long a screw is used

the large 1.5 x 1.5 tubing is .125, the 1 inch tubes are less so the 10-24 nutserts are correctly sized

Note the nutsert's design dictates a bunch of adjustments on the installation tool. I had to grind the face of the tool that I bought on Amazon.com, the tool must thread all the way through the nutsert before you use the tool or it can pull out the threads making the insert useless. The inserts that came with the tool were much shorter than my McMaster inserts

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TODXQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[RM1SepEx]

Dan,

For the latches into the door, you bought Type 316 Stainless Steel—DIN 7991-A4 M6 × 1 x 30mm?

I think that sounds correct, I got those at Ace, I just bring in the screws, grab a nut that fits and find a longer screw that fits that nut with the length needed... Too many times someone puts the wrong hardware in a bin... you drive home and find the wrong screw in the little bag

[Frank818]

Frank, you have your dimensions confused

first I use 10-24 because that is the tool that I have, a 10-32 would provide a stronger thread
I also use #10 screws because it is much harder to install stronger 1/4 x 20 nutserts, I've got a bunch of physical issues :(
next, the nutsert application thickness of concern is the actual thickness of the material that is "clamped" by the nutsert when the tool distorts it, this does not include the body thickness, that defines how long a screw is used

the large 1.5 x 1.5 tubing is .125, the 1 inch tubes are less so the 10-24 nutserts are correctly sized

Note the nutsert's design dictates a bunch of adjustments on the installation tool. I had to grind the face of the tool that I bought on Amazon.com, the tool must thread all the way through the nutsert before you use the tool or it can pull out the threads making the insert useless. The inserts that came with the tool were much shorter than my McMaster inserts

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TODXQW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry Dan, I am mixed up. I was before reading this. :) It's the first time I work with fasteners sizes (for the build), there are so many available and I try to get the perfect one. End up mixing up myself.

10-32x0.75 will work for me.

May I ask how many screws you used to hold the body? Assuming the 3/16 rivets FFR uses under the side panels would be rivnuts and button head screws for me. I don't know if 25 or 50 or 100 is ok. 100 surely, but 25 or 50, I don't know.

[Frank818]

I think that sounds correct, I got those at Ace, I just bring in the screws, grab a nut that fits and find a longer screw that fits that nut with the length needed... Too many times someone puts the wrong hardware in a bin... you drive home and find the wrong screw in the little bag

Oh yeah the nuts, I forgot about them. Will find nuts for those on McMaster, then.

[RM1SepEx]

I spaced them every foot under the car, I buy 100 at a time

[RM1SepEx]

Been working to remount the body, rear clip almost done. It is amazing how different these later panels are vs the ones mfg a year earlier. Still trying to figure out how I want to hinge my engine cover... Pete's method looks pretty good But I'm not sure how it will work with Craig's aluminum hinges. He's remaking the two arced arms, my brackets are not in the same place as his are!

I'm struggling with how I need to twist the engine cover around the roll bar, it just doesn't sit down well


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I also decided to stiffen the firewall where the gas pedal is mounted to the firewall. I didn't use the FFR bracket, it is too flimsy. I cut an inch of one leg of a piece of 2 x 2 x 1/8 aluminum angle, used 3/16 rivets to the frame tubes. Between the two 1/4 mounting bolts an an extra one for good measure it is nice and stiff

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[Frank818]

Nice bracket, yeah.

[K3LAG]

I'm struggling with how I need to twist the engine cover around the roll bar, it just doesn't sit down well



We just dealt with this a couple days ago. We had to trim quite a bit. Much like Wallace did on the orange car he built.

37156

We have about 1/16" clearance between the roll bar and body with the cardboard tube off with it trimmed like this. At first we were kind of bummed we had to trim this far, but as we look at we are coming to think it looks OK like this.

Larry

[metalmaker12]

We just dealt with this a couple days ago. We had to trim quite a bit. Much like Wallace did on the orange car he built.

37156

We have about 1/16" clearance between the roll bar and body with the cardboard tube off with it trimmed like this. At first we were kind of bummed we had to trim this far, but as we look at we are coming to think it looks OK like this.

Larry

Very interesting, maybe they have a few different molds or something because I did not have to trim so much off. Others have had to and others have not. It has a lot to do with the flex in the panel also, but maybe some were built tighter, and maybe some roll bars were built slightly larger.

[Mechie3]

FFR should have provided more than 1 reference point. They say to use 5/8" (IIRC, ) off the front edge. Problem is, that is a trimmed surface and, as we've seen, the trimmed edges aren't controlled to a tight tolerance. When I compared my trunk lid location to Dan's we were off by a good 1/2". Part of it is from the location of the bracket glassed into the trunk, the other part was the location of the side sail. Mine sits farther back than Dan's, but I had the same measurement at the front that FFR says to use. If they gave a reference point for the rear firewall frame mounting tube to the door opening we could better align the body.

[Wayne Presley]

It completely depends on where the side pods are bolted on as to how much you have to trim on the roll bars.

[AZPete]

I found that the 5/8" is a starting point, not gospel. Clamp up both side sails and the rear bumper with the two engine covers in place. Clamp the front bumper and fenders with the hood in place. Then adjust, adjust, adjust to get it centered and good fits at the roll bars and windshield before bolting or riveting anything.

You'll need lots of clamps and the fender brace from Zero Decibel helps a lot. I even used it temporarily to set the distance between the front fenders.

[K3LAG]

We also noticed that the right and left humps on the cover are different. Measured at the roll bar, our passenger side hump is nearly a half inch taller than the drivers side one. After we trimmed the drivers side we made a template of it to make the passenger side the same. With the template lined up with the line where the body meets the hump, the shape of the passenger side hump was noticeably different.

I think I kept the template, so next time I am down there I'll try to take some pictures showing the difference.

My side pods are both mounted exactly 5/8 back from the front edge of the firewall aluminum. That is measured to the bottom corner of the side tunnel as shown in the manual.

Larry

[RM1SepEx]

Larry, I can see from your photos the 5/8 from the lowest edge of the rocker panel/side pod. I can't understand how your engine cover needed to be cut so severely as my pods are in the same spot although I didn't remove the flange like you did. The side panel is held tight to the frame setting the width at the doors by that aluminum cover (yours is a sweet orange) so everything should be in the same place on our two cars! Mine might need a slight trim, yours was cut 1/2 deep? Something is off!

This set of panels doesn't fit the same as my original ones...

T Wallace cut into his like you did, Eric didn't, Chris has a slight notch (but has a foam wrap around the bar), stickShift 84 has a slight notch, twgab has a slight notch, Wayne did not, AJW did not, the GRM car has notches

I think that I can assume we can all measure the 5/8 to the firewall, it can vary a bit as it is aluminum over the frame tube but now where near that much ?????

Larry, can you measure from the front of the engine cover to the large square tube?

[K3LAG]

Larry, can you measure from the front of the engine cover to the large square tube?

7 15/16"+, but not quite 8", from what I remember. I know it was just a hair below a full inch. I can't move the pods back any further or the welded brackets for the striker plates would be exposed. Right now, they just tuck behind the fiberglass.

These pictures show the difference between the two humps. The first one show the template we made from the first side in place. The second shows the same template flipped over and placed on the other side. Ignore how the cut outs fit the template. The template was made before they were trimmed/sanded.

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I don't know why there is such inconsistencies between sets of body panels, but clearly there is. FFR needs to work on consistency in their processes. I'm chassis #86, so about 6 months into production. The top edges of my side pods and rear bumper are pretty sloppy, but all the other panels seem to be in good shape as far as edges and other issues are concerned. We haven't gone on a void hunt yet though, so we'll see what happens then.

Larry

[RM1SepEx]

Wow

I ran into the same thing on mine, I measured 8 inches with the tape hooked on the inside of the tubing, and have the exact same issue with my door latches... so we are in the same place!!! yet my humps fit tight but don't need a cut out

What is the edge to edge on the outside of your roll bar tubes? We are missing something, they are not using that many molds and I can't imagine that they vary that much.

[freds]

FFR should have provided more than 1 reference point. They say to use 5/8" (IIRC, ) off the front edge. Problem is, that is a trimmed surface and, as we've seen, the trimmed edges aren't controlled to a tight tolerance. When I compared my trunk lid location to Dan's we were off by a good 1/2". Part of it is from the location of the bracket glassed into the trunk, the other part was the location of the side sail. Mine sits farther back than Dan's, but I had the same measurement at the front that FFR says to use. If they gave a reference point for the rear firewall frame mounting tube to the door opening we could better align the body.

From my experience having to modify the steel brackets for the door strikers:
I believe that mounting the steel striker support brackets to the chassis (loosely) and then sliding the side sails back against those brackets (to get a "best fit") will be a much better defined mounting reference.
But even then...the thickness of the fiberglass at the striker mounting area on the one side was more than double the other side. So thick that I couldn't get a light to shine through (for marking the holes)

You are absolutely correct the FFR recommended reference is totally dependent on the FFR trimming which on my body parts was ALL over the place, and at best badly misleading.

[K3LAG]

Wow

I ran into the same thing on mine, I measured 8 inches with the tape hooked on the inside of the tubing, and have the exact same issue with my door latches... so we are in the same place!!! yet my humps fit tight but don't need a cut out

What is the edge to edge on the outside of your roll bar tubes? We are missing something, they are not using that many molds and I can't imagine that they vary that much.

I'll get that measurement next time I'm down at the garage. I didn't think I was going to have to trim that much either. But, once we started trimming and the cover edges started to rotate down into place we kept finding that we had to remove more material to get the front edge of the cover to fit flat on the pod tops at the door edge.

I hope I'm wrong, but you may find you have to trim more than you think you do. Are your front edges sitting flat? We found that with the outer front edge of the cover held in place, the roll bar was holding the inner edge up off the pod over 1/4". As we removed a bit of material at a time we were able to get that inner edge to sit flatter, but by the time it was flat, plus a little clearance, we ended up where we are. We were surprised.

Larry

[RM1SepEx]

You are correct it doesn't sit flat... I do have to twist it, I may need the same cut. Ugh

[K3LAG]

You are correct it doesn't sit flat... I do have to twist it, I may need the same cut. Ugh

We didn't 'cut' it per se. We used a 2" diameter sanding drum with 80 grit paper. With the 80 grit paper it cut pretty fast, was controllable, and left a nice radius at the bottom. So, if it comes to that, at least it isn't too hard to do.

I've been toying with the idea of using some fiberglass tubing that I have around for building rockets to make a little fairing that would cover the cut out. I haven't decided if I like the idea or not. I might model it up with a piece of cardboard tube and see how it looks.

Larry

[RM1SepEx]

I got to play with it after plowing thisAM
If the body is shifted back 1/4 it doesn't have to be trimmed
Time to play with it a bit

[K3LAG]

It will be interesting to see how that impacts the rest of the body fit.

Larry

[metalmaker12]

I got to play with it after plowing thisAM
If the body is shifted back 1/4 it doesn't have to be trimmed
Time to play with it a bit

Hmmmm wonder how that happened. Lol told ya if the bodies in the right place it should just clear it with minimal triming and not a hole saw gap. Little adjustments go a long way when things fit tight. Your onto it and will get it right.

As long as the wheel wells are pretty close to centered it should all line up very nicely. If anything going back helps with the trunk gap a bit. The rear sections needs support to bring that rear line in. Also filling the rear section some also brought it more snug. A little tweak here and there and it starts to make sense. I mean no disrespect to anyone trimming stuff off, it's just not how it has to be if you look a little deeper. Trying to help

[RM1SepEx]

Chris, the issue is how can there be that much variation panel to panel? They came out of the same female mold. My first panels lined up nicely at the 5/8 space from the front aluminum. The new panels need to be farther back by about 1/4 on the right and 3/8 on the left!

[metalmaker12]

Chris, the issue is how can there be that much variation panel to panel? They came out of the same female mold. My first panels lined up nicely at the 5/8 space from the front aluminum. The new panels need to be farther back by about 1/4 on the right and 3/8 on the left!

Amount of resin, and the way there stored can change things slightly. Wait, you have new panels??

[RM1SepEx]

Yes, explanation is up 2-3 pages, I should be done by now but my other issues have been a bit much. My shoulder is F'd up again and I can't raise my arm over my shoulder level again... :-( I bailed on the wiring after I had a no start after several months of sitting, packed it up and sent it to IWire... A couple of months from now it should be ready to go again!

[gwarden]

We just dealt with this a couple days ago. We had to trim quite a bit. Much like Wallace did on the orange car he built.

37156

We have about 1/16" clearance between the roll bar and body with the cardboard tube off with it trimmed like this. At first we were kind of bummed we had to trim this far, but as we look at we are coming to think it looks OK like this.

Larry

Please tell me about your dash mod, I'm guessing to fit a tablet but want to know how you modified the bottom of the dash so clean.
Also wishing you a speedy recovery with shoulder issues

[RM1SepEx]

That's Larry's dash mod, I can't help you. I am thinking that my 7 inch tablet would work well there though... :D

My shoulder problem is compounded by my back problem, I see the neurosurgeon in a couple weeks... At least I haven't had normal pain sensation for 23 years... makes it easier to deal with! :D

[K3LAG]

Please tell me about your dash mod, I'm guessing to fit a tablet but want to know how you modified the bottom of the dash so clean.
Also wishing you a speedy recovery with shoulder issues

More pictures and explanations of my dash mod are in my build thread starting here: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12055-The-Savage-build-thread&p=162331&viewfull=1#post162331

Larry

[RM1SepEx]

Tis a sad day we lost BNAS for the foreseeable future as an autocross lot. It was the biggest/best on the East Coast. Back to smaller lots and Loring AFB up in Limestone once a year for a big weekend event.

[Silvertop]

Good morning Dan --

A quick question for you -- I'm pretty sure you are running stock Subie 16" wheels, as I intend to do. I'm planning on 205/50 16 on the front. I just noticed that FFR now recommends a maximum diameter on front tires of 24.0 inches. All of the tire brands and model that I am interested in that size come in at 24.1 inches. What size tires are you running on the front? If it is 205/50, have you had any trouble? Or will I need to go to 205-45?

[RM1SepEx]

I'm running stock tires from the donor 205-50-16 Direzza on the front and 225-55-16 on the back 15 mm spacers on the front and 1.5 inches on the rear. Clearance is tight but workable however the tires are about 1/3 worn so the diameter is less than a new tire. Long term I'm going to 17's in the proper sizes...

[Silvertop]

I'm running stock tires from the donor 205-50-16 Direzza on the front and 225-55-16 on the back 15 mm spacers on the front and 1.5 inches on the rear. Clearance is tight but workable however the tires are about 1/3 worn so the diameter is less than a new tire. Long term I'm going to 17's in the proper sizes...

Thanks for the response. Since my plan (which could change, I suppose) is to stick with the Subie rims, and since YOUR clearances are very tight at the front even with tires that are somewhat worn, it would probably be prudent for me to drop down to 205/45 - 16 on the front, which will give me a tire diameter of 23.3", well under the 24" max that FFR recommends. This puts me 2/5 of an inch closer to the ground, which I don't much care for, given that I will have a front splitter, which further reduces my ground clearance. I suppose I can find a way to raise it back up again with suspension adjustments, or some sort of shim......

Apologies for pulling your build thread off topic.

[Tamra]

Tis a sad day we lost BNAS for the foreseeable future as an autocross lot. It was the biggest/best on the East Coast. Back to smaller lots and Loring AFB up in Limestone once a year for a big weekend event.

What happened? That's really too bad. Guess maybe you'll have to come down to Devens :)

[RM1SepEx]

What happened? That's really too bad. Guess maybe you'll have to come down to Devens :)

They are doing everything that they can to "reclaim" the real estate and fill it with new tenants. Apparently they filled more space and our limited income opportunity became unneeded.

It really just begged for a full time multi use facility. Driving school with Miatas, winter driving, kart racing etc... the adjacent hanger is absolutely huge!

Devins doesn't allow my shifter... Though I may go down with the 818 or one of the Miata in the future. I was going to sell my 1990-94 mongrel but I'm thinking it will be a perfect backup car for Karen and myself. Miata work well in all but blizzard conditions and driving one in the winter is an excellent way to improve driving skills. I have absolutely no respect for my 1993 Del Sol, its a rat!

Its 5 hrs from here to Loring in Limestone but well worth the trip!

[K3LAG]

Wow

I ran into the same thing on mine, I measured 8 inches with the tape hooked on the inside of the tubing, and have the exact same issue with my door latches... so we are in the same place!!! yet my humps fit tight but don't need a cut out

What is the edge to edge on the outside of your roll bar tubes? We are missing something, they are not using that many molds and I can't imagine that they vary that much.

Dan,

Finally got back to the car after being a bit under the weather. I measured the width of the roll bar. We measured center-to-center across the front of the roll bar where it attaches to the frame. It's about 45.5".

Out of curiosity I also looked to see how far we would have to move the body back for the engine cover to clear the roll bar. It looks like it would have to move back nearly a full inch. No way that would work.

How is your fit coming?

Larry

[RM1SepEx]

Larry, I've been under the weather yet again too... :-(

here goes nothing

I think the 5/8 measurement for the lower front of the side panels is as Azpete IDed "just a starting point"

I added some cloth under the front edge of the engine cover, used a buck to fix the shape, sitting flat = FUBAR My body's gel coat cracked due to stress at the hoop cutouts...

I ended up moving the sides back about 3/8 +/-, the side panels are as far back as I can put them, the edges line up with the door latch brackets. It is EXTREMELY important that the body has the right "curve" to it. The engine cover should sit on the car so that the side "ears" are parallel to the ground. Metalmaker ID'ed the key, the height of the rear of the engine cover. As you lift it in the back these "ears" twist making the cover widen at the roll bars and narrow at the outside edge where it sits in the side panel grooves. See his thread, he ended up with a brace 8 inches tall supporting the rear of the cover. My final brace isn't done yet. I need some spacer in the front center to support the engine cover as well. I've bent my side panel supports to better match the body's shape and added some 1/4 inch plastic spacers to minimize stress as I hold it down. When they are flat and parallel to the ground they cause stress on the fiberglass when you tighten screws in place.

We need to make sure that the engine cover sits higher on the side panels and the rubber weatherstripping. There is quite a bit of clearance that is obtained doing these things. Making the engine cover arc in the center gives more even gap spacing, as the cover flattens you get narrow front gaps widening towards the rear.

Next the nose, bringing the side panels back pulls the nose back as well as the fender bottom to side panel location is fixed. Align the body lines, I used tape to define the line and make it easy. If you look through many threads everyone has problems getting the nose back to the radiator frame assy. Even with my side panels farther back my nose doesn't reach the radiator frame, I need an aluminum bracket to "adjust" the position. The hood has the same issue as the engine cover, it needs support in the rear to cause it to arc more, it flattens during storage.

37714 37711 37712 37713

Larry the roll bar has about 1/8 clearance in the photos, before I support the back of the engine cover, I'll have plenty of clearance and will add some rubber under the cover to geep it off the roll bar when driving

notes

you can see plastic spacers holding up the front center of the engine cover in the second photo & in the last photo the angle makes it look like the bracket sticks out, from a full side view it is flush with the edge of the side panel

[tmoretta]

Which weatherstripping is used, and where is it mounted? On the covers or on the quarter panels? Also, I am assuming that the perimeters of all three covers have to be trimmed to lie flat. Correct?

[RM1SepEx]

the 1/2 moon stick on rubber strips that came with the kit are stuck on the front fender returns, the trunk and engine cover, basically all of those flat surfaces that have a body panel close down on them. You can see it in their photos

yes virtually every fiberglass piece needs trimming somewhere to fit

see the rubber strips on Wayne's 818 post 942

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10525-Wayne-Presley-VeryCoolParts-Build-Thread-H6-power/page24

[07FIREBLADE]

Did you put in a hood support. The FFR one did wonders for my hood which sat flat for 10 months. Going to work on the wiper install soon now that I got my front end fitting with livable gaps.

[RM1SepEx]

Yes, about an inch taller than the FFR aluminum one with the rubber on the top... I put an aluminum "post" off the center of the 1 inch tubing... It is 5 inches tall. I think I will replace this lightweight aluminum with an aluminum post with adjustable rubber top... We all need to realize that the panels are a bit flimsy for high speeds as delivered. I'll hinge the front of the hood again :-( and add a prop rod. I think a couple of lightweight ribs will stiffen the hood some as well.

37728

[07FIREBLADE]

Ok I see what you did. I put the FFR where you put your taller hood support with the wiper install in mind. It worked out for me. It's only clecoed in place right now put its nice and snug especially with the adjustable quick latches.

[RM1SepEx]

The FFR piece was made to cover the access for the brake master and support the hood at the edge of the windshield

[tmoretta]

What is this FFR supplied support that you are mentioning? I can't find it.

[AZPete]

The FFR hood support is part #80587. You can call FFR for it or just make it yourself because it's just a flat piece of aluminum that you could cut to fit as you like then put a piece of bulb seal along the top edge. I couldn't find a photo of one installed but someone else might post that.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/AZPeteCobra/Hoodsupport.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/AZPeteCobra/media/Hoodsupport.jpg.html)

Edit: Go up to Dan's Post #929 for a photo of this installed onto the windshield flange.

[RM1SepEx]

The FFR hood support is part #80587. You can call FFR for it or just make it yourself because it's just a flat piece of aluminum that you could cut to fit as you like then put a piece of bulb seal along the top edge. I couldn't find a photo of one installed but someone else might post that.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/AZPeteCobra/Hoodsupport.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/AZPeteCobra/media/Hoodsupport.jpg.html)

Edit: Go up to Dan's Post #929 for a photo of this installed onto the windshield flange.

Hell I have two of them... :)

[RM1SepEx]

Shifter is done, first gen MR2, rebuilt, installed under custom aluminum 1/4 plate.

Shifter cables http://www.boatersland.com/telccx43307.html

clamps http://www.mcmaster.com/#2695k85/=w3ugmq

At transaxle: 4 inch bell crank for "twist" motion with 3/8 OD, 1/4 ID oilite bushing from Ace, cut stock FFR shift bracket vertical mount for twist, used horizontal for pivot for bell crank, modified the bulkhead tab for in/out replaced tab with two holes for clamp listed above, mounted clamp for twist through bell crank in 2 x 2 x 1/8 aluminum angle mounted under FFR shift bracket. Used 1/4 - 28 female rod ends and FFR provided ball stud ends where appropriate. My FFR bracket is shifted 1.5 inch forward and my shift arm is flipped so the bracket is forward and it is welded to the shift coupler.

At Shifter: Drilled MR2 shifter for 3/8OD, 1/4 ID oilite bushing, shortened as required. Cut off peg from stock twist motion arm, drilled for 1/4 through hole. Used 1/4 -28 female rod ends to connect to cables. Cables clamped with McMaster clamps listed above. Hung shifter ball socket 1/2 under plate to limit up angle on cables.

39160 39162

Shift action is very direct and throw is damn short! The Teleflex cables make a HUGE difference!

[Hindsight]

Very nice! Thanks for sharing the details and sources.

Did you rebuild the Mr2 shifter and if so, were the bushings and main ball readily available from the dealer?

[RM1SepEx]

Everything is available, however I found that clean, wire brush the ball, regrease and reassemble did wonders. Bob found that you can buy a new ball & shaft etc dirt cheap on ebay.

Bob noticed the large clearance hole, the cup needs to be held down, here is an updated photo showing it being done and that I shimmed the assemby down to reduce the angle of the cables.

39163

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-MR2-mk2-SW20-89-99-quick-short-shift-shifter-gear-stick-lever-Turbo-N-A-/201260463370?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2edc0ef50a&vxp=mtr

You could do it as well with this setup reversed 39164 for sale $350 shipped in continental US ($50 off FFR $ and free shipping)

[Tamra]

Looks great! Can you post a video? How's the side to side play while in gear now?

[Hindsight]

Bob noticed the large clearance hole, the cup needs to be held down, here is an updated photo showing it being done and that I shimmed the assemby down to reduce the angle of the cables.

Thanks for all the info and links Dan. I didn't quite follow the sentence above though. Could you elaborate a bit?

[RM1SepEx]

look at 1st photo in post 935, then the one in post 937

the shifter has a ball on the lower end and sits in a plastic cup, the ball is held in the cup with a circlip. The cup is held down by the top plate and my aluminum plate is thicker, so the hole had to be wider to allow the ball to rotate to get into gear. It is so wide that the cup wasn't held down well, I added a thin piece of aluminum to hold it down and you can see the ball is lower and held down in the last photo.

Notice that Bob's shifter uses the blue plate used to hold down the ball. You can see it on the EBay link. I didn't machine my plate with an angled profile to the side of the hole.

Perhaps video soon, right now it doesn't like sliding into second and I can start the engine to try a slight trans shaft movement, my harness is out at IWire

[Hindsight]

Ok I think I understand. So the real issue is that the OEM top plate that the ball cup mounts to, is just very thin and allows too much flex?

[RM1SepEx]

no, it has mounts for bulkhead fittings and custom Toyota cables, can't work w/o modifications for the Teleflex cables, tho I'm sure it could be done, we both chose a different route, tons of ways to skin a cat ya know. I drilled bushed and used the rod ends and clamp mounts on both ends, Bob used clevis parts from McMaster and bulkhead on one end, clamp on the other.

If I was to start over I might just try the teleflex cables in the stock FFR lengths, they are just designed so much better, they have a sheath design that eliminates the slop inherent to the cheap control cables. The optional billet FFR shifter is much nicer than the plastic one too and eliminates its flex. It may make someone happy. It also could be reversed easily too you would just need two bell cranks, the push pull one with straight equal lengths and pivoting in the middle.

My problem is owning a virtual fleet of 4 Miata, they have short throws and essentially no linkage, I wanted to get a close to that as possible.

[bstuke]

Got most of my body on yesterday. Went for a spin and couldn't figure out why it kept popping out of 2nd or reverse. Finally realized that it was hitting the rear cowl. Now I have a nice square hole in the rear vent area!

[Hindsight]

My problem is owning a virtual fleet of 4 Miata, they have short throws and essentially no linkage, I wanted to get a close to that as possible.

Never owned a Miata but my thought has always been that foot and hand controls need to be as good as possible for best driving enjoyment. A really nice steering wheel, shift knob, well bled brakes, and crisp shifter action with no slop will make a tremendous difference in the feeling of driving a car.

I ordered a used MR2 shifter on eBay today so within a month or two, I'll be joining you and Bob. I'm sure like you both did, I'll borrow a little from your experiences and also fab up some things of my own.

[Wayne Presley]

no, it has mounts for bulkhead fittings and custom Toyota cables, can't work w/o modifications for the Teleflex cables, tho I'm sure it could be done, we both chose a different route, tons of ways to skin a cat ya know. I drilled bushed and used the rod ends and clamp mounts on both ends, Bob used clevis parts from McMaster and bulkhead on one end, clamp on the other.

If I was to start over I might just try the teleflex cables in the stock FFR lengths, they are just designed so much better, they have a sheath design that eliminates the slop inherent to the cheap control cables. The optional billet FFR shifter is much nicer than the plastic one too and eliminates its flex. It may make someone happy. It also could be reversed easily too you would just need two bell cranks, the push pull one with straight equal lengths and pivoting in the middle.

My problem is owning a virtual fleet of 4 Miata, they have short throws and essentially no linkage, I wanted to get a close to that as possible.

Or you could by my set up with the cables coming out the rear with a billet shifter :D

[bstuke]

Very happy with my VCP shifter..

[RM1SepEx]

Got most of my body on yesterday. Went for a spin and couldn't figure out why it kept popping out of 2nd or reverse. Finally realized that it was hitting the rear cowl. Now I have a nice square hole in the rear vent area!

yup, too long as designed, I checked out their cars at FFR and the rear mesh is damaged. I just flipped it and shortened it 1.5 inches, no interference now.

[bstuke]

shortened it 1.5 inchesEnd of the day, end of my wits, 2-3 beers, didn't think of shortening it... It is easy enough to get the rear cowl off and do that soon.

Thank for the tip.

[projectrally]

So Dan, how does your MR-2 setup compare to the Miatas? I've got the same bias, and want the same result...

[RM1SepEx]

can't tell until I have it running again but it is soooo much better than the std FFR parts, the plastic shifter flexes and the long looped cables are cheap and they suck. The Teleflex cables eliminate the cable to sheave clearance, facing rear and the bell crank get rid of the loops. I think that Waynes or the FFR backwards with bell cranks/levers as required is best. The FFR billet that I have with the levers would be tighter than the MR2 I think.... Wayne's needs a bell crank and I don't know the quality of his cables....

[wleehendrick]

Wayne's needs a bell crank and I don't know the quality of his cables....

The cables Wayne provides are high quality, and a bell crank for the lateral motion would probably help, but the little bit of slop I have actually appears to be coming from some play in the K-tuned shifter itself.

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks for the update Lee, I expected as much. I think even with the loops the cables make a HUGE improvement, the FFR ones are very sloppy. My FFR sourced K-tuned shifter had some slop too, adding a couple shims tightened it right up!

[wleehendrick]

Thanks for the update Lee, I expected as much. I think even with the loops the cables make a HUGE improvement, the FFR ones are very sloppy. My FFR sourced K-tuned shifter had some slop too, adding a couple shims tightened it right up!

I can't compare Wayne's cables to the FFR cables, since I never got them (they were back-ordered, and I told them not to ship since I didn't need them), but they are nice and solid.

I may try shimming the pivot on the shifter that has a little slop, but that's low priority for me... I can do that anytime; I want to get this car running!

[tebriel]

I'm a little late to the game here, but Dan did you think about rotating the compressor housing to point towards the IC and eliminate some bends on your piping?

[RM1SepEx]

I'm a little late to the game here, but Dan did you think about rotating the compressor housing to point towards the IC and eliminate some bends on your piping?

coulda, shoulda, woulda, :rolleyes: I took the easy way out!

Now I'm remounting the body, anyone else having non symmetrical hump issues? The right one is about 8 inches high, has tons of bar clearance, the left, 7 1/2 or so inches and not much clearance at all. Squaring the engine cover front to back is a challenge as well.

39713 39714

If I look under the engine cover it just barely clears the tubes running from the roll bar back to the frame under the humps

[Silvertop]

I'm running stock tires from the donor 205-50-16 Direzza on the front and 225-55-16 on the back 15 mm spacers on the front and 1.5 inches on the rear. Clearance is tight but workable however the tires are about 1/3 worn so the diameter is less than a new tire. Long term I'm going to 17's in the proper sizes...

Dan, where did you go to find 1 1/2" spacers? The biggest ones I'm finding are 25mm (1"). Are you putting two spacers together -- two 20's or a 25 plus a 15?

[RM1SepEx]

You can't use studs that long. The spacer bolts to the hub and the spacer has studs that hold the wheel...

I did a quick ebay search http://www.ebay.com/itm/38mm-1-5-Hubcentric-5x100-Wheel-Spacers-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-RS-12x1-25-/331393579726?fits=Year%3A2005%7CSubmodel%3AWRX&hash=item4d2898bace&vxp=mtr

I don't remember who I bought mine from but they are just like these

[Silvertop]

You can't use studs that long. The spacer bolts to the hub and the spacer has studs that hold the wheel...

I did a quick ebay search http://www.ebay.com/itm/38mm-1-5-Hubcentric-5x100-Wheel-Spacers-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-RS-12x1-25-/331393579726?fits=Year%3A2005%7CSubmodel%3AWRX&hash=item4d2898bace&vxp=mtr

I don't remember who I bought mine from but they are just like these

Thanks, Dan. They DO make hardened studs long enough to go straight through 1 1/2" of spacers. AJW is marketing some right now. Are you suggesting that studs that long would be too highly stressed? Regardless, I do like the look of the spacers you pointed me at. How are those working out for you? Are your tires still entirely within the wheel wells? You are running 225/55 -16's, while I will be on 225/50-16's. Seems to me that the actual tire width in the formula winds up being a ratio of profile to actual width. Are your 55 profile tires going to be wider, narrower, or the same as my 50 series tires? I'm sure I can figure this out myself, but I thought I'd toss it out there. Sorry about pulling your thread a little off-topic. I know there's a better place for this question, but I thought I would put it where I knew you would see it. :rolleyes:

[Silvertop]

Thanks, Dan. They DO make hardened studs long enough to go straight through 1 1/2" of spacers. AJW is marketing some right now. Are you suggesting that studs that long would be too highly stressed? Regardless, I do like the look of the spacers you pointed me at. How are those working out for you? Are your tires still entirely within the wheel wells? You are running 225/55 -16's, while I will be on 225/50-16's. Seems to me that the actual tire width in the formula winds up being a ratio of profile to actual width. Are your 55 profile tires going to be wider, narrower, or the same as my 50 series tires? I'm sure I can figure this out myself, but I thought I'd toss it out there. Sorry about pulling your thread a little off-topic. I know there's a better place for this question, but I thought I would put it where I knew you would see it. :rolleyes:

Just figured out that last question checking specs on Tire Rack. Width will be same same regardless of profile. A 225 is a 225......... So the only issue is whether your tires are entirely within the wheel wells.........

[RM1SepEx]

Posted a photo somewhere... they are flush, I went with 55s to get slightly taller gearing figuring that the stock gearing was too low for such a light car and at the time the 818R seemed to have trouble applying power out of corners with race rubber. This car needs wider rubber... :rolleyes:

studs that long are too stressed IMHO. Studs are made to be loaded in shear, when they are that long you can add bending stresses too.

[Samiam1017]

dan I don't know if I missed this but what route did you use to run your cables and di you use the 7ft cables thx sam

[Evan78]

Just figured out that last question checking specs on Tire Rack. Width will be same same regardless of profile. A 225 is a 225......... So the only issue is whether your tires are entirely within the wheel wells.........It might not be important for your purposes, but tires DO vary in width despite being labeled a 225 section width. Checking mfg specs should provide a little more accuracy.

[RM1SepEx]

dan I don't know if I missed this but what route did you use to run your cables and di you use the 7ft cables thx sam

up under the intake, I did use 7 foot cables, PN and a link are listed above somewhere 7 foot is a bit long you have to have some arc

[Silvertop]

This car needs wider rubber... :rolleyes:

Depends on how you plan to use the car........... and, of course, on whether you would rather go out of control in a high speed turn at 110mph or 135mph! :rolleyes:

[Silvertop]

It might not be important for your purposes, but tires DO vary in width despite being labeled a 225 section width. Checking mfg specs should provide a little more accuracy.

You are right, of course, if you are comparing one manufacturer's tire to another's or even one tire design to another from the same manufacturer. But in this case, I was comparing my tire of choice -- in this case the Bridgestone RE 760S -- and the width was precisely the same whether in a 50 or 55 profile. And I determined that using the mfg specs.

End of hijack!

[RM1SepEx]

About time I posted some progress!

Working on mounting the new body in the cold... Warmer later this week. Side panels and rear clip mounted up. Took a lesson from Tom in Florida and bought a drill tap in 10-32 to mount all the screws into the thick wall 1.5 inch sq tubing. Works well and eliminates the slight spreading due to insert use. Drilled 1/8 inch holes for clecos, drill with drill tap and drill 3/16 clearance holes in the body. Still using inserts into the smaller tubes, not enough wall thickness for my comfort to use the drill tap.

This body looks soooo much better!

39844 39845 39846

Craig's trunk hinges and my locking pins next!

[Tamra]

That looks really good, Dan! We are very close to starting on the body for ours (waiting until after the first autox this coming Sunday). I hope it goes as smoothly as yours is looking like (knock on wood).

[Frank818]

Dan, the tape and wood you are using, is it to keep the panels in place while you work around or to bend slightly the panels so they take their shape and minimize gaps?

[RM1SepEx]

Yes Frank, the paint sticks hold the gaps that you are trying to hold. Tape, clamps, clecos... the amount of finagling to get everything to line up is almost limitless. I have to admit that the second time goes a bit faster... I use gravity too, 1 gallon containers work great to hold everything down.

You have to remember that this is a big 3D puzzle and everything effects everything else. You need to measure everything 10 times and square it all up. I also had to fill a bunch of voids in the rear clip's flange, I started bolting and clamping and it just cracked and crumbled. I built up the voids with tiger hair fiberglass body filler.

[DMC7492]

Hi Dan I'm looking at your shifter cables. How did you route around or through the engine. I am planning on A/C so the compressor is kind of in the way to go under the intake. If I go below engine the Exhaust cross pipe is smack dab in the middle. Any suggestions?

[AZPete]

DMC7492, PM sent re shifter cables w/ A/C.

[RM1SepEx]

Hi Dan I'm looking at your shifter cables. How did you route around or through the engine. I am planning on A/C so the compressor is kind of in the way to go under the intake. If I go below engine the Exhaust cross pipe is smack dab in the middle. Any suggestions?

I took a piece of hose and tried different routes to determine the length. If you buy the good Teleflex cables there isn't a big space inside the cable and you can make pretty good arcs with the cable. The FFR cables are just too sloppy, every arc alows the cable to flop from one edge of the arc to the other when you change direction. Do yourself a favor and use levers to eliminate any loops that you can.

[RM1SepEx]

Busy day, I look like the Philsbury doughboy! I cut out my hood vents for Craig's Louvers, trimmed excess fiberglass all over the place. The drum sander and my palm sander together with a cut off tool and 4 inch thin wheels does fast work of the job

I trimmed the rear of the fenders to a minimal thickness, the hood to about 1/2 inch return and cleaned up areas as needed.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Busy day, I look like the Philsbury doughboy! I cut out my hood vents for Craig's Louvers, trimmed excess fiberglass all over the place. The drum sander and my palm sander together with a cut off tool and 4 inch thin wheels does fast work of the job

I trimmed the rear of the fenders to a minimal thickness, the hood to about 1/2 inch return and cleaned up areas as needed.
Looking good Dan,
I hope to be at a similar point by next weekend. I'm still doing rough alignment to make sure I can get everything to play together.
Did you have to use something to push your front fenders apart. About 1/2 way up the hood, my fenders are pinching my hood pretty bad.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

No, but I assembled mine on the car, not on a table... I clamp and bolt in place. I think that when you put it on the car and snug up the front it helps keep the arc in everything. You don't get that tension if the frame isn't there.

The new hood is much shorter at the points, it is looking really good. I trimmed the rear hood lip and it looks like wiper room is good, no hood cutting for me. I might end up using the Miata wiper assembly as the WRX one interferes with the master cylinders. The Miata one is on the right, and it's made for a similar sized windshield.

[AZPete]

Nice work, Dan. I've got to add a few gallons to my engine cover, like you did, to get it to remember to lay flat. I like your idea about the Miata wipers and look forward to your pics when you get to it. Spring is coming!

[RM1SepEx]

Another day in the can... First photo is from yesterday, I need to add some weight to finish the Dough Boy Look!

Worked some more on the front end... headlight buckets were a PITA, looking for feedback on how low the bucket sits below the front clip/lip. I've got almost 3/4 inch!

40000 40008 40007 40006

40005 40004 40003 40002

40001 40009

Note how the revised hood fits so much better than the original. I don't have to do much more clearancing to clean up the fender/hood/windshield support. I've added a bit of extra gel coat to the ends of the fenders so I can shape it to my desired profile and polish to a finished surface

Also check out Craig's louvers. I like them but I've asked him to make some with 3 more rows of fins that sit on top of the hood. Then I can block off the area behind the radiator and allow increased airflow out of the lovers in the hood. Placing it on top nested into the contours of the hood should allow it to bridge the step in that area of the hood. The louvers will be much more pronounced on top of the hood. Mine will be powder coated bright orange very soon... :o

[RM1SepEx]

Missed the other hood corner

40010

[Frank818]

Panels look great! You look white like a ghost. lolll

I can clearly see the openings behind the front fenders, before the doors. Way too small to opinion, now I understand why FFR cut a huge opening in the front of the doors on their 1-month-built red 818.

Can't wait to see pix of those "lovers" like you call them! :) I know, I'm sure it was a typo. :)

[RM1SepEx]

Louvers is correct Frank, and the photo is pretty clear:

40023

I have some white vinyl edging that has glue inside of it to finish the edges, I may use it on all of the exposed edges like the fender edges, back of the hood etc

[Frank818]

Sorry, thought you'd get another set with 3 more fins.

[RM1SepEx]

I asked, no idea if it is going to happen...

[Mechie3]

Lol. It might happen. I need to get some more work done on my own car first.

[RM1SepEx]

Lol. It might happen. I need to get some more work done on my own car first.

We all like it when you work on our projects Craig! ;)

[RM1SepEx]

Working on the hood hinges, I fabbed brackets from 2 x 2 x 1/8 AL angle to glass into the hood, they are getting milled slots for the hinge supports.

I mounted 2 x 2 x 1/8 angle to the angle that I used for the nose to fiberglass mount

The arms are made of 1/4 AL plate, simple 1.5 wide 12 inch long with 3.5 L shape

Pivot is just a 1/4 bolt for now...

Hope to have it mounted and fitted this weekend

So Far:

40151 40150 40152 40153 40154

I plan on mounting up some expanded diamond AL sheet for a grill PCed in Orange to match my color scheme, it will pivot with the hood

[AZPete]

Very clever, Dan. I look forward to seeing your pics of it finished.

[Hindsight]

Quick question on your shifter Dan: How tight are the allen bolts that are going through those heim joints at the shifter end? I've never had those fit snugly so am wondering if that ends up being a source of slop or if you are just tightening down the nut/bolt that the clamping force is enough to keep any play out.

[RM1SepEx]

The heim joints should be tight, they rotate in the ball, not on the bolt. I'm thinking of replacing the stock ball stud joints on the other end due to slop and replacing them with heims...

[RM1SepEx]

Jumping around on getting the body just right, contacted Craig @ zeroDBmotorsports and bought his fender brace, I found that with some additional tension I could pull the fenders in for a better gap. I've decided that hinging the cover was too much a PITA so I'm just going to bolt it down. I modified the braces to leave a space to put in nutserts. I've also noticed that the engine cover lip is about 1/8 taller than the side panel lip :( so to get better fit I shimmed the brace bracket down 1/8. I'm using Craig's hinges too...

It's really coming together.

40198 40197 40196


Brian at IWire told me that my new harness will be coming back to Maine next week!:)

[Tamra]

Looking good, Dan!

[RM1SepEx]

Wait until you see the trap door to check and fill the oil in the "hump" :rolleyes: LOL

[Mechie3]

We all like it when you work on our projects Craig! ;)

So....

Dan and I work together on a lot of things (if you haven't noticed, lol) and so with the vices out of the CNC it was perfect timing. I had just ordered a bunch of material to prototype the rear louver so figured I might as well give these a go at the same time.

http://i.imgur.com/4nGGEK8.jpg

[RM1SepEx]

excellent Craig... more airflow, air deflector at the battery "wall" and louvers higher and more prominent to the hood's top surface!!! :cool: Time to fire up the RAL 2004 Orange powder coat...

[RM1SepEx]

Another busy day, trunk hinges completed, round key locking latches installed too

engine cover bolts down in the rear, attaches to the modified bracket from Craig's fender brace

nose finally lined up, the other end is really close, I have an early frame and was able to uses Craig's pin and fender supports creatively. I rotated the pin support bracket to get the locking hood pin location closer to the windshield as many are having issues with the corners of the hood standing up a bit.

The windshield can be tricky. I had fun getting the position to be close to the same side to side. On the driver's side I have the windshield mounted as far forward and down as low as possible.

On the passenger side it is mounted as high and far back.

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[RM1SepEx]

The rest of today's photos

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Now I need to attach the front of the engine cover w/o using hood pins...

[Harley818]

Dan,
In your post 685, picture 3 and 4, it appears you added a spacer to lift the corners of the side fender at the back by the windshield post.
How thick did you go?
Is that how you solved the interference of the hood/windshield/fender at this corner?
I might try that to see if it can solve my problem. I didn't try lifting it.

Harley

[RM1SepEx]

I have a very early frame, and the hood pin mounts and fender supports don't exist... Craig made these up ages ago and has styles according to frame type... look up fender supports.

I think the key to my clearance is the many hrs and specialty beers with whatever measuring tape was handy figuring out all of the compromises re body location. Add that to the new hood that I got that has a far shorter and stronger design for the rear tips. You really have to bolt up areas that HAVE to line up and sort of twist and pull and trim etc to get it to line up. The rear lower fenders, fender to hood, fender to headlight, fender to nose all need to go in one particular spot.As many have said this is a big 3D puzzle and it only takes a small amount being off... UGH results. don't forget the roll bar is too wide/body too narrow and the door latch brackets, each location effects others!

For instance virtually everyone else's car has the front edges of the nose not lined up perfectly with the front of the nose. (See the red FFR car below) They all have one or both sides back a bit, 1/8, 1/4 etc.. that makes a huge difference in how wide the rear of the top of the fenders are spaced... Clecos, clamps, duct tape, gallon jugs for gravity, the sun and heat lamps etc... many tools need to be used

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I use painter stick pieces to get some semblance of an equal spacing on every panel, I can't get there, sooner or later you have to settle. I had to trim the lower front edge of the hood to get it to sit into the nose. Many of us find that you just can't hold the painter stick gap there, the hood is just too wide unless you remove all of the return edge going downward. I had to remove the little rectangles at the fender to headlight area as the fenders wouldn't set down over the headlights.

I did add a 1/8 piece of rubber to the top of Craig's aluminum support, I'll be trying to do that where I think it will make the body sit better and to avoid long term squeeking.

How much time do you want to spend and what final result meets your expectations? Each of us has different priorities. :)

[Frank818]

It amazes me to see how many mods you do on body. So many things, day after day I read that I get more and more freaked out that someday that day will come to me. :)

In the meantime, do you adjust the windshield based on the body parts up front or the windshield first and body parts 2nd? Looks like option #1.

[RM1SepEx]

Frank as the others before me have said it is a complicated beast, a 3D puzzle. You just keep plugging away until you are satisfied... I happen to be an anal retentive process engineer... :rolleyes: I'm trying to document more than most to help other through the process. Nothing is PERFECT... to many areas with slight tolerances that you have to adjust for. I happen to dislike the hood pins everywhere, that adds complexity. Look at the jobs that Erik and Wayne did! I built almost everything in my life... did everything on the house, rebuilt bikes, motors, cars, as required through life... the FFR project is a pretty big project :-) They provide us with an excellent basic project... you need to make it your own.

I love working with Craig to develop his products, they really help to personalize these little beasts and flush out some of the basic compromises that FFR has to make to keep the cost down. And working with him long distance brings me back to my semiconductor days... Work with California for space, missile, fighter jet products, Singapore and Ireland for consumer products. When I started we had international email and international computer access in 1982. Computers lived in cleanrooms where you wore a bunny suit. Communication was all dial up at 128 baud... graphic interfaces didn't exist.

Be proud of the fact that you are doing a different drivetrain! That's a BFD

[Harley818]

Thanks for the update Dan.
I've been doing multiple adjustments as you say for a couple weeks now, a bit at a time, then completely starting over in frustration.
However, its getting better.
I'm a mechanical engineer and I want it to look good, balanced, clean lines, and neat details - so I'm willing to spend a bit more time.

What do you think about cutting the front center of the bumper and re-fiberglassing it 1/4 to 3/8 wider? You won't even notice it when its done, and it will have the right gaps at the front. I haven't decided yet, but its an option at this point.