Papa's Retirement Type 65 Coupe Build - Index in first post

[Papa]

I went ahead and pulled the trigger on my Dakota Digital gauges! I bought the gauge set, the GPS module, the dimmer for the gauges, and an external GPS antenna. I decided to skip the TPMS as it isn't 100% compatible with the gauges and would require Dakota Digital to make some modifications to get partial compatibility.

I also ordered four Billet Specialties A/C vents. I'm leaning toward doing the dash in real Charcoal Black Alcantara over 1/8" landau pad and then using a carbon fiber panel to mount the gauges in.

[PNWTim]

Sounds good Dave. I just received my Anthracite black Alcantara for my dash. I think the sheen of it will look nice and it's pretty easy to work with so we'll see. I am going to try my hand at upholstery on this build, possibly including seats. Good on you to go big with the vents. They should really pop.

[Papa]

Sounds good Dave. I just received my Anthracite black Alcantara for my dash. I think the sheen of it will look nice and it's pretty easy to work with so we'll see. I am going to try my hand at upholstery on this build, possibly including seats. Good on you to go big with the vents. They should really pop.

Are you planning to do any pad under the Alcantara on the dash? What adhesive do you plan to use?

My better half is going to bring her sewing skills in and do some contrasting stitching in red for me.

[PNWTim]

Are you planning to do any pad under the Alcantara on the dash? What adhesive do you plan to use?

My better half is going to bring her sewing skills in and do some contrasting stitching in red for me.

I ordered the Alcantara with foam pre-applied. It's the equivalent of 1/8" Landau (2 mm) which is what I was originally going to use. Specifically for hard panels and headliners:

https://www.upholsterysupplyusa.com/...ft-foam-backed

I am not clear on whether the foam is applied in Italy or by the guys in California but the ease of use appealed to me. I am going to spray Weldwood Landau adhesive out of cheap HF gun.

https://www.amazon.com/Dap-Weldwood-...4083990&sr=8-1

https://www.harborfreight.com/32-oz-...zle-56981.html

I ordered a gallon so I can do my dash and door panels and anything else I can think of. I've been watching a lot of videos on the subject matter and although you can use the aerosol cans most of the YouTube upholsterers use the Weldwood (or something similar).

I am by no means an expert but I am going to give it a go. I have leather, fabric and carpet coming from Relicate for the remainder of the car so I am on a steep learning curve!

[Papa]

I ordered the Alcantara with foam pre-applied. It's the equivalent of 1/8" Landau (2 mm) which is what I was originally going to use. Specifically for hard panels and headliners:

https://www.upholsterysupplyusa.com/...ft-foam-backed

I am not clear on whether the foam is applied in Italy or by the guys in California but the ease of use appealed to me. I am going to spray Weldwood Landau adhesive out of cheap HF gun.

https://www.amazon.com/Dap-Weldwood-...4083990&sr=8-1

https://www.harborfreight.com/32-oz-...zle-56981.html

I ordered a gallon so I can do my dash and door panels and anything else I can think of. I've been watching a lot of videos on the subject matter and although you can use the aerosol cans most of the YouTube upholsterers use the Weldwood (or something similar).

I am by no means an expert but I am going to give it a go. I have leather, fabric and carpet coming from Relicate for the remainder of the car so I am on a steep learning curve!

Thanks, Tim. The Alcantara I ordered doesn't have a backing on it, so I thought the foam would be a good add. I found the foam relatively inexpensively and figured I'd be able to apply it to the dash and hope to feather it out on the top so that the front edge is padded, but as you get closer to the edge where it meets the windshield, it will be virtually gone with just the metal dash surface left where the defrosters mount. I also plan to use the Weldwood glue, but ordered it in their spray cans.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092NJH6XL...fed_asin_title

We'll see how that works. For the stitching, I'm still debating if I want to do actual French seams or just do a double stitch on a single piece of Alcantara. I think I know the answer but will experiment a bit to see how it looks.

I may also do the transmission tunnel cover and shift boot in the same material.

[burchfieldb]

I have found the same preference for the Landau glue and have been using it. The cans do not go far. You can get a gallon and a spray gun in a kit for pretty cheap. You also do not need to clean it out of the gun when done, only wipe the tip off with some acetone.

[Papa]

Well, okay then. I just ordered a gallon and a sprayer.

[PNWTim]

It is very rewarding to spend other people's money on tools and supplies! Just remember, we're here to help

[8secDuster]

it is very rewarding to spend other people's money on tools and supplies! Just remember, we're here to help

lol !

[FNLode]

Hi Papa, I also got my D65 mid August this year (delivery to Norway) and I also spent some 1-2 hours looking for the hardcopy manual (since YouTube "Oak hollow Garage, Thomas referred to that one allot), just to learn that I now had to download the manual.. Agree with you, they should have sent it for us tactile persons still like the papers .

[Papa]

Hi Papa, I also got my D65 mid August this year (delivery to Norway) and I also spent some 1-2 hours looking for the hardcopy manual (since YouTube "Oak hollow Garage, Thomas referred to that one allot), just to learn that I now had to download the manual.. Agree with you, they should have sent it for us tactile persons still like the papers .

Thankfully, a fellow builder @460.465USMC was kind enough to send me his hard copy manual that he wasn't using. I love having that manual open on my workbench as I'm working through each part of the build.

[Papa]

My gauges arrived! I was expecting an eight to ten week lead time, but they came in two days. They look even better in person than the pictures make them look.

[Papa]

I just got back from dropping my panels off at the powder coater! The engine bay panels are going to be done in a nickel metallic and the rest in the Silk Satin Black. As I showed above, the gauges are here. I plan to bench test them and will show what they look like lit up. They are supposed to have indicators for turn signals, high beam, check engine, and e-brake, but those are not obvious to me looking at the gauges. Once I get them powered up, I can put them into a demo mode and it should show those indicators. If they don't actually display, plan B is to use small LEDs from Watson Street Works.

I received my Alcantara material, but I'm still waiting for the padding, thread, and needles for the sewing machine that will work for the heavier #92 thread.

I also ordered some VViViD Super Gloss Black Carbon Fiber Tek Art vinyl wrap to try on the gauge panel. If I don't like it, I will order a real carbon fiber panel and make a gauge panel from that.

I also published my latest update on my YouTube channel:

[Sharris2]

Noticed in your video wheel spacers on the back? What rims offset and tires are you using? Following your build as I'm not far behind you?

Thanks
Scott

[Papa]

Noticed in your video wheel spacers on the back? What rims offset and tires are you using? Following your build as I'm not far behind you?

Thanks
Scott

Scott,

Those are just there for the rollers I bought that had way too much backpacking.

Dave

[Sharris2]

Thanks, have you picked tires and rims yet?

[Papa]

Thanks, have you picked tires and rims yet?

Leaning heavy toward Forgestars that many others have used. Not locked in, so we shall see!

[JimStone]

Leaning heavy toward Forgestars that many others have used. Not locked in, so we shall see!

FYI, Forgestar is running a 20% off sale right now, even for custom wheels.

I waited and watched for about a year for custom Forgestar wheels to go on sale and it didn't happen so I bought them full price....

[Papa]

I finally got off my backside today and plumbed the rear brakes. Taking cues from Paul's Coupe build thread, I ran the reat lines from each side to a T fitting and then a line through the transmission tunnel to the master cylinder.









I can't finish with the cushion clamps until my panels are back from powder coating, and I have the Snakebite Motorworks lower transmission panels installed. The line will run under those panels and enter the cockpit at the inner cockpit wall that transitions to the driver's footbox. My bends near the master cylinder look a little convoluted, but I wanted to be sure to keep the line out of the way of the steering column and fuse block.

Fuel lines up next. I'll be running hard lines through the tunnel transitioning to braided lines at each end using the compression fittings from Breeze Automotive.

[GoDadGo]

Hey Dave,

You may want to go with these Hubcentric Spacers instead of pair you are running.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/musta...50-5450-e.html

They really do a good job keeping the wheels centered.

Steve

[Papa]

Hey Dave,

You may want to go with these Hubcentric Spacers instead of pair you are running.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/musta...50-5450-e.html

They really do a good job keeping the wheels centered.

Steve

Steve,

Thanks for looking after me! The spacers are just for the roller wheels that I won't be using on the road at all ... rear tires are 100% slick.

Dave

[GoDadGo]

Steve,

Thanks for looking after me! The spacers are just for the roller wheels that I won't be using on the road at all ... rear tires are 100% slick.

Dave

I'm glad you won't be using spacers.
Those things scare me even though they are widely used.

[Lugnut Mark]

I really like the way you ran your brake lines … super clean and simple … pretty sure I’m going to copy that setup when I’m ready.

[Papa]

I really like the way you ran your brake lines … super clean and simple … pretty sure I’m going to copy that setup when I’m ready.

Thanks, Mark. I mostly followed Paul's (edwardb) example.

[Papa]

I started running my fuel lines. I'm doing hard lines for the runs from front to back through the tunnel and braided lines at each end for the final connections. I'm also using double clamps from Lodestone Billetworks to secure the 3/8" lines to the chassis. I'll add cushion clamps in areas that the billet clamps won't work in, like the return line going over the filter.



I jogged the return line over in the tunnel like Paul did just to be sure there will be room for the transmission without any interference.





I will trim the length and bend the front of the lines up and finish them off with Let-Lok fittings.

[Papa]

Today I worked a bit on getting my gauges installed into the instrument panel. First, I powered them up into a demo mode to be sure the indicators I was expecting to have were actually there. They are not visible at all with the gauges powered off and I wasn't 100% certain they would actually be there. I bought some small LED's just in case, but wanted to test the gauges before drilling any holes in the panel. Sure enough, the indicators are there and light up good and bright!



Next, I removed all the gauges from the panel and drilled a hole for the gauge programming switch that Dakota digital provided. After test fitting the switch, I cleaned the panel with lacquer thinner and laid it on a piece of the wrap I bought.





The wrap has a thin protective film on the finished side to allow you to work the adhesive with a 200-degree heat gun without marring the vinyl. As you can see, the vinyl is somewhat translucent and will look different depending on the color of the material you are covering.

And the finished product:



I'm really happy with how it came out. I also plan to use it on my glovebox door and the dash extension I got from Brent. I'm also considering using it on the transmission tunnel cover, but that could also get wrapped in Alcantara ... to be determined.

[PNWTim]

Looks nice Dave. I think the toughest part about applying those wraps is keeping the "weave" lines straight. I don't see anyone do it here but another option for items like this is to have them hydro-dipped. I had pieces for my 69 dash dipped and they came out great but they are also complex shapes which is where the HD shines.

[Papa]

Here is a capture from the video showing the available indicators on the gauge.





Turn signals left/right
Check engine
Parking brake
Cruise control
High beam

[Papa]

I did a little tinkering in the shop today. I finished up the fuel lines in the engine bay.



I found a neat little deburring tool that works great for the small tubing. It handles both the inside and outside edges of the tubing.



And I cleaned up the rat's nest of data cables for my gauges. The cables make for easy wiring of all the gauges, but are a bit more cumbersome than standard wires.



The remaining connections include the programming switch and two CAT5E cables (one from the speedo and one from the tach) that simply go to the control module. Everything else goes to the control module.

[PNWTim]

Fuel lines look nice all finished up. I am surprised you decided to run the return line to the front. I just couldn't bring myself to do it. I have that same deburring tool and it works just as well on stainless. Makes for really clean flares.

I've not seen flat comm cables like that used for gauges but it's kind of cool. I suppose you trade off the neatness of having the individual wires corralled to trying to corral flat cable but it looks tidy.

[Papa]

Thanks, Tim. I want to try my best to keep the wiring clean on this build. I'm documenting all my custom wiring as diagrams in my build folder as I go.

On the return line, I like the regulator in the engine bay and running a few feet of hard line isn't that difficult.

[Papa]

On another note, I've been playing with ideas for the dash and other interior features to go along with my modern take on the Coupe. I came across this head unit that I think would look fantastic in the dash.



It is the size of a double-DIN but mounts in a shallow single-DIN cage. I don't really want a stereo but would love to have the GPS navigation via Android Auto and the backup camera display would be another big plus.

I also found a carbon fiber steering wheel that I'm very interested in using.



I'm going to get another hub for my I.E.427 turn signal setup from Frank. He does a hub with the NRG quick release, and I've asked him to do one for me. With that, I can mount the NRG slim carbon fiber quick release and this steering wheel.

[Lugnut Mark]

Love the steering wheel choice … the d shape will definitely be a plus for a taller gentleman like myself

[Papa]

I bought my seats today! I decided, after following a lot of rabbit holes, to go with the Sparco R100 seats since I know they will fit and they seem to get solid reviews for build quality. I saw a post in @PNWTim's posts on the seats that mentioned flat bar mounts. That gave me an idea how I might mount these.

Going off an idea using a piece of bar stock on each side that has a couple of bolts counter sunk and welded into the bar with the bolts going through the seat pan in the car and held with nuts. The bars would first be attached to the seat bottom in a similar way using counter sunk bolts into the mounting holes for the seat tracks. I'll mount the bars to the seats and then drop the seats with the welded bolts though holes in the seat pan and attach with nuts from the underside of the car.

[2JZ]

Wilwood brakes and a Coyote engine is a killer combo. Taking it slow is smart, you catch way more mistakes that way. Good luck with the build, following along.

[JimStone]

I bought my seats today! I decided, after following a lot of rabbit holes, to go with the Sparco R100 seats since I know they will fit and they seem to get solid reviews for build quality. I saw a post in @PNWTim's posts on the seats that mentioned flat bar mounts. That gave me an idea how I might mount these.

Going off an idea using a piece of bar stock on each side that has a couple of bolts counter sunk and welded into the bar with the bolts going through the seat pan in the car and held with nuts. The bars would first be attached to the seat bottom in a similar way using counter sunk bolts into the mounting holes for the seat tracks. I'll mount the bars to the seats and then drop the seats with the welded bolts though holes in the seat pan and attach with nuts from the underside of the car.

Or if you didn't want bolts sticking down under the car, you could run the bolts up from underneath through the seat pan into your mounting bars that have been drilled/tapped. Button heads would be the most shallow and look nice. That's what I'm doing.

Just a thought

[Papa]

Or if you didn't want bolts sticking down under the car, you could run the bolts up from underneath through the seat pan into your mounting bars that have been drilled/tapped. Button heads would be the most shallow and look nice. That's what I'm doing.

Just a thought

I like that idea! Thanks Jim.

[PNWTim]

Dave - I have spent the last couple of weeks fooling around with my seats and mounting them. I am very motivated to use sliders but that has introduced a myriad of issues. To stay within the confines of the floor pan they need to be mounted as far aft as possible to catch the floor pan steel. One of the bolts ends up in a frame member but I'm OK with that. I welded nuts to the inside of the tracks to be able to bolt from the exterior upwards. Needless to say, this is pretty fiddly.

Just today I was contemplating welding a 3/16" steel strap "box" with countersunk bolts tacked in place to mount the sliders to. That way I can drill through that bracket anywhere I want. Lots of ways to do it but some are definitely easier than others.

[Papa]

Dave - I have spent the last couple of weeks fooling around with my seats and mounting them. I am very motivated to use sliders but that has introduced a myriad of issues. To stay within the confines of the floor pan they need to be mounted as far aft as possible to catch the floor pan steel. One of the bolts ends up in a frame member but I'm OK with that. I welded nuts to the inside of the tracks to be able to bolt from the exterior upwards. Needless to say, this is pretty fiddly.

Just today I was contemplating welding a 3/16" steel strap "box" with countersunk bolts tacked in place to mount the sliders to. That way I can drill through that bracket anywhere I want. Lots of ways to do it but some are definitely easier than others.

These challenges are a fun part of the build. I like thinking of ways to solve these sorts of things. Probably a hundred ways to make it work. In my MK4, my seats are mounted as far back as I could get them. I've never needed to adjust them, so I'm not doing sliders in the Coupe. We'll see if I stick with that once I have the seats in the car and can sit in them.

[Papa]

The Sparco R100 seats I ordered arrived today. I set one in the car on the driver's side to look at fit.



After getting the incline to a comfortable spot, I sat in the seat in the chassis and find the seat to be comfortable. I am 5'9" tall at 190 lbs. with a 34" inseam and I placed the seat as far back as it can possibly go and it doesn't need any adjustment for me, so no sliders. The seat sits very low, and I'll have just a couple of inches from my head to the top of the roll cage. The areas that I was most concerned with from a fit perspective were the seatbelt tabs and the clearance along the outboard bolster at the shoulder. Without the panels in place or the body on, I think I'll be okay.



Here is a top-down view of the bolster in relation to the roll cage.



I have a set of the Breeze seat mounts that I may try to adapt to give me a bit of incline in the seat bottom, but it may not work out for those. If they can't be adapted, it isn't difficult to create a bit of incline, so not a big deal.