Papa's Retirement Type 65 Coupe Build - Index in first post

[Papa]

Here is what I've come up with:



I know it looks convoluted, but it addresses my concerns of keeping the hoses away from the moving parts of the pedal box, eliminating tight bends in the hoses, and protecting the hoses from sharp edges of the footbox panel. I know it adds a lot of potential opportunities for leaks, but this part of the system is under very low/no pressure. We'll see how things lay out in reality once I have everything in hand.

[Nigel Allen]

Just make sure all of the hose is compatible with brake fluid. Mine wasn't. The fluid sweated through the hose over a few months. It was an ugly mess, but lucky to catch it early on.

Cheers,

Nige.

[Skuzzy]

Nothing wrong with what you propose. Pipe threads are a good call.

Do not use any Teflon tape on the threads. Brake fluid will dissolve the polymer base the teflon is embedded in. Use Loctite 545 for the thread sealant.

[Papa]

Just make sure all of the hose is compatible with brake fluid. Mine wasn't. The fluid sweated through the hose over a few months. It was an ugly mess, but lucky to catch it early on.

Cheers,

Nige.

The hose inside the footbox will be what came with the Wilwood master cylinders. The AN lines will be PTFE lined.

[Papa]

I got some things done in the shop yesterday. First, I made a simple patch to cover the clutch hole opening in the driver's footbox.



I also installed the clutch safety switch so that I could be sure to route the brake hoses and lines to not interfere with the switch.



I also laid all the cockpit aluminum back in the car to refamiliarize myself with the placement and overlap order before I start marking and drilling the rivet holes. Some of the panels are going to need some finessing of the bends as many others have pointed out. Looks like I'll be adding another tool to the tool box.

[TBull]

[QUOTE=Papa;592157]Here is what I've come up with:



I used something like this on the back side for my heater hose routing behind a bulkhead

https://www.racetronix.biz/p/hose-fi...ack/fit-209004

and had a standard AN bulkhead fitting for my pass through. Look on the passenger side of my engine bay. Then the rest of your pic still works.

[Papa]

I was able to mock up the brake and clutch reservoir setup I sketched out above. I think it will work just fine.





I also fit and drilled the radiator aluminum.

[PNWTim]

Looks good Dave - moving right along. Your hoses look good. I was actually doing something similar, then changed my mind, then changed my mind again. But now I think I have a plan.

[Papa]

Looks good Dave - moving right along. Your hoses look good. I was actually doing something similar, then changed my mind, then changed my mind again. But now I think I have a plan.

Thanks, Tim. I appreciate the sanity check on those side radiator panels, too.

Dave

[Skid]

Oh I’m really looking forward to this retirement project. I loved following your Cobra build. It really helped with my build.

[Lugnut Mark]

looks killer Dave ..... I'm an old school drag racer at heart so any time we can do braided lines the better ! IMHO of course ! Ptfe for the win. #blacknylon lines

[Papa]

I spent a little more time on the radiator aluminum fitment after getting advice from a couple of fellow builders. First, I ground down some of the weld on the frame where the side panels were being pushed away from the frame.



After touching up the paint with SEM 39143 Trim Black paint, the panels lay nicely against the frame. Next up was removing some of the side panels that sits just below the frame. I'm going on faith that this is the right thing to do. It's a small modification that will hopefully prevent the need to aggressively trim the underside of the nose of the body to the extent that I've seen some require.





I also started to fit and drill the cockpit aluminum today.

[GoDadGo]

Thanks For Posting All These Pics Papa Dave!

[Papa]

Thanks For Posting All These Pics Papa Dave!

No problem, Steve!

[Papa]

This morning, I was reading the forum posts and came across Paul's update on running the electrical harnesses and where to place the fuse panel. This took me down a rabbit hole today. I laid out the harnesses, played a bit with placement of the fuse panel, and started thinking about how I want to run the front harness. I'm thinking of bringing it out of the driver's footbox here:



Further down the rabbit hole, I decided that I was going to remove the steering column plug this time to help with the tight quarters that all the wiring has to route through.



Next, I took a look at the rear harness along with the Wilwood EPB harness. I decided that I'd combine the two into a single loom. I'll likely end up shortening the Wilwood harness that plugs into the controller once I figure out exactly where that will get mounted.





I took some time to verify all the wiring at each plug lined up with the opposite side of the plug. No issues with my harness that I could see. Finally, I verified the harness I modified by removing the steering column plug by checking continuity through the harness for each wire.

I also started making some additional support brackets like the ones Paul made for his fuse panel mount. I'll post a couple of pics if I can make something that looks presentable.

[Papa]

I finished making the small brackets to help support the fuse panel mount. They aren't as pretty as Paul's, but they do what they are supposed to do.



I tapped some #8-32 threads into the frame to allow the bracket to be removed easily in the future if needed. I laid in the main harness to be sure I can get the brake lines in and that the harness can be routed where it needs to go. I'm happy with how it looks.

[Purple Venom]

Looking good Dave. Great to see you progressing!

[Papa]

More work on panel fitment and drilling today. I have most of the driver's side cockpit panels fit and drilled.



The only area that really gave me any trouble was the outside rear corner of the floor.



That corner doesn't want to fit with the under-door panel pushed all the way back to the frame. I haven't decided if I'm actually going to drill and rivel the bottom edge to/through the floor yet.

I also got the passenger floor fitted and expect I'll have the same issues when I put the under-door panel in.

[460.465USMC]

Next up was removing some of the side panels that sits just below the frame. I'm going on faith that this is the right thing to do. It's a small modification that will hopefully prevent the need to aggressively trim the underside of the nose of the body to the extent that I've seen some require.

Moving right along, Dave. Looking great! The nose interference issue with those side panels was not on my radar. I guess if I have an issue, I'll have some trimming to do. Though, my preference may be to trim the aluminum (like you did) instead of the nose.

I finished making the small brackets to help support the fuse panel mount. They aren't as pretty as Paul's, but they do what they are supposed to do.

I tapped some #8-32 threads into the frame to allow the bracket to be removed easily in the future if needed. I laid in the main harness to be sure I can get the brake lines in and that the harness can be routed where it needs to go. I'm happy with how it looks.

Look good to me. This seems to be the thing to do. Will likely do the same when I tackle wiring in the near future. Thanks for the pictures.

The only area that really gave me any trouble was the outside rear corner of the floor.

That corner doesn't want to fit with the under-door panel pushed all the way back to the frame. I haven't decided if I'm actually going to drill and rivel the bottom edge to/through the floor yet.

I had the same experience. FWIW, I didn't put any rivets along the bottom diagonals in the rear corners. Didn't want to try to force it. I also didn't put any along the floor. I don't think F5 shows rivets in either place.

[Papa]

Moving right along, Dave. Looking great! The nose interference issue with those side panels was not on my radar. I guess if I have an issue, I'll have some trimming to do. Though, my preference may be to trim the aluminum (like you did) instead of the nose.



Look good to me. This seems to be the thing to do. Will likely do the same when I tackle wiring in the near future. Thanks for the pictures.



I had the same experience. FWIW, I didn't put any rivets along the bottom diagonals in the rear corners. Didn't want to try to force it. I also didn't put any along the floor. I don't think F5 shows rivets in either place.

Thanks, Chris. I find myself winging it quite a bit with the panel positions. Ultimately, nobody will ever see where I put the rivets for the most part, as pretty much everything in the cockpit gets covered up anyway. I am trying to put the rivets in from the outside where they will be visible from under the car for the panel-to-panel attachments.

Dave

[460.465USMC]

Thanks, Chris. I find myself winging it quite a bit with the panel positions. Ultimately, nobody will ever see where I put the rivets for the most part, as pretty much everything in the cockpit gets covered up anyway. I am trying to put the rivets in from the outside where they will be visible from under the car for the panel-to-panel attachments.

Dave

Me too, even though only my eyes will ever see 'em.

Keep up the stellar work.

[Papa]

Here is a peek at the gauges I'm going with ...





I'm trying to lay out a plan for all the electrical as early in the build as I can. I wonder if my wife would kill me if I got these for her for our 40th anniversary this December?

[PNWTim]

Excellent idea for the 40th Anniversary gift....said no one ever!

The gauges are nice looking. Guessing all electronic?

[Nigel Allen]

Here is a peek at the gauges I'm going with ...





I'm trying to lay out a plan for all the electrical as early in the build as I can. I wonder if my wife would kill me if I got these for her for our 40th anniversary this December?

It would certainly GAUGE the strength of you marriage

[Papa]

Excellent idea for the 40th Anniversary gift....said no one ever!

The gauges are nice looking. Guessing all electronic?

They are Dakota Digital VHX-1060, all digital.

https://www.dakotadigital.com/index....rod/prd919.htm

[460.465USMC]

I'm trying to lay out a plan for all the electrical as early in the build as I can. I wonder if my wife would kill me if I got these for her for our 40th anniversary this December?

If your build thread ends abruptly in December, either you took an extended anniversary trip, or.......

[Nigel Allen]

I really like those gauges, especially when lit. Will really suit the Daytona

[Papa]

I really like those gauges, especially when lit. Will really suit the Daytona

Thank you, Nigel. I like Dakota Digital stuff and these gauges are sized similar to FFR's Speedhut set. The speedometer accepts input from a trans-mouted pulse generator or using a separate GPS module from Dakota Digital, which I will get. I can also get a TPMS module that integrates with the gauges, but I have to discuss that with Dakota Dogital first according to notes on their TPMS module when used with this gauge set.

[Papa]

I got some more goodies from Brent (Snakebite Motorworks) delivered yesterday! I bought the lower transmission tunnel covers, a set of pontoon covers, and a set of hood rollers.



Everything is top quality. I'll share more pictures as I get the parts installed down the road.

[Papa]

With all the extra electrical gadgets I plan to put in the car, I needed a clean way to provide both switched +12v and battery +12v in a central location. Here is what I have planned right now.



Parts:

- Blue Sea Systems 5032 ST Blade Fuse Block Dual 12 with Ground and Cover, 100 Amps
- Relay 120A, 12V Continuous Duty SPST 4-pin High Power Relay
- 4 Post Power Distribution Block Bus Bar with Cover
- 250A Mega fuse and holder
- ATO blade fuses in appropriate sizes (5A and 15A)

I'll be using a high-power relay to feed the switched power block on the sub panel. Some of the Dakota Digital Bus Interface Modules (BIM) require power connections and some get power through the BIM port connections. The Wilwood EPB has its own 40A fuse on the battery connection. That circuit will connect to the bus bar directly as it exceeds the 30A per/circuit max for the sub panel.

Now for the challenge of where to place everything so that the fuses are accessible.

[Sharris2]

This including the ron francis fuse panel?

[Papa]

This including the ron francis fuse panel?

Yes -- This is in addition to the RF fuse panel.

[PNWTim]

Looks good Dave, pretty convenient solution for tying together multiple circuits. I personally would use a self-resetting 40 amp circuit breaker for the Wilwood circuit. You can then place it anywhere convenient.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...xoCD_EQAvD_BwE

On a side note, what did you use to draw this up?

[Papa]

I'm thinking of mounting the fuse sub-panel on the upper front panel of the driver's foot box here:



Any reason this is a really bad idea?

[Papa]

Looks good Dave, pretty convenient solution for tying together multiple circuits. I personally would use a self-resetting 40 amp circuit breaker for the Wilwood circuit. You can then place it anywhere convenient.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...xoCD_EQAvD_BwE

On a side note, what did you use to draw this up?

Thanks, Tim. I'll look at the circuit breaker. I like the idea of an automatic reset capability on that circuit. I just used PowerPoint to create the diagram. I would have used Visio if I still had it available to me, but don't want to spend the $$ for it for these occasional drawings.

Dave

[Papa]

I spent some time in the shop today and got a few things done. I ordered some powder in "Silk Satin Black" from Prismatic Powders to do some small parts. Today I finished the hood roller brackets I got from Brent. The color and finish is a close match to the chassis finish:







Next I spent some time making paper templates for the items I need to find homes for behind the dash. I laid out the Dakota Digital modules for the gauges, GPS, and TPMS along with the Wilwood EPB controller:



The EPB controller won't work in this location as it interferes with the glove box, so I repositioned it to the trans tunnel lower cover that I also picked up from Brent.



The plan is to cut the bottom half of the FFR upper trans tunnel cover to open the space created by the lower trans tunnel panels from Brent. This will then be covered by a new panel that extends from the trans tunnel to the dash. I'll use that to mount the heater and A/C controls, the EPB switch and possibly other switches or a screen for the backup camera.



And for the last of my tasks today, I fit and drilled the passenger side cockpit aluminum.

[PNWTim]

Looking good Dave. I have that trans tunnel cover as well and had been thinking along the same lines as it's pretty valuable real estate right there.

I like your idea of the paper templates (I guess it's how I did my dash layout) and lord knows DD loves their control boxes. I only have two - one for cruise control and one to control my door poppers but I think I am going to end up with 7 or 8 relays, a ground bus and at least one Bat+ and Bat + switched bus. It gets crowded fast.

I miss my powder coater. I sold it and my full sized oven a few years ago to free up some space, then sold my sandblaster since I wasn't powder coating anymore. Now for small parts I paint and shoot with clear.

[Papa]

Thanks, Tim. I also got a 40A self-resetting circuit breaker for the EPB and a 200A manual reset circuit breaker for the sub fuse panel. I know where I'm going to put the fuse panel, but need to think about the other items some more. I'm trying to visualize the ducting for the heater and AC. The gauges use standard Cat 5 cables to connect to each other, so not a lot of wiring at the gauges. It's all the other harness mess that will be the bigger challenge.

[Papa]

I finished up fitting and drilling the cockpit aluminum today!





Next step will be to do the trunk/hatch panels and then get everything to the powder coater.

I also posted a monthly update to my YouTube channel:

[Papa]

I used up a little more powder today and coated the two rear body attachment brackets.





After that I worked a bit more on possible placement of the items I want to put behind the panel that will extend from the dash to the console. I think I can actually get the fuse block I'm adding under there where it is still accessible to change fuses or to add a circuit down the road if I need to, although the space will be very tight to work with.



Access from the side with the panel in place ...



And from the front with the panel removed ...