The last one! #538 is getting V12 and RHD

[J R Jones]

On V12 fitment: Two weeks ago I reviewed a RCR Ferrari P4 at the Road America vintage event. That chassis was designed for a SBC and my buddy's LS7 fits OK.
The Ferrari V12 intrudes into the cockpit and the axles angle aft from the rear uprights to the transaxle. Ten pounds of Ferrari in a five pound RCR bag.
jim

[DopeOfWelding]

On V12 fitment: Two weeks ago I reviewed a RCR Ferrari P4 at the Road America vintage event. That chassis was designed for a SBC and my buddy's LS7 fits OK.
The Ferrari V12 intrudes into the cockpit and the axles angle aft from the rear uprights to the transaxle. Ten pounds of Ferrari in a five pound RCR bag.
jim

I bet that Ferrari V12 RCR is incredible! if you have links, I would love to see it!

Just yesterday I managed to pull the factory oil pan and chain driven oil pump and install a mock up dry sump pan. I dropped the V12 back in and found its final position. The harmonic balancer is sitting just about where the intended LS one would be. The engine does creep into the cockpit a little but not a ton. Just the front of the valve covers. That's only because it is DOHC. So some tweaks will be made to accommodate that. With the seats in place, I still fit somewhat comfortably. I do need to make some chassis mods under the engine and transaxle, but I have the plan figured out for those already.

Dry Sump mock up pan installed. Much more compact
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The engine is now MUCH lower than previously. Before it was sitting so high, the velocity stacks were hitting the rear hoop of the roll bar. I couldn't even slide the intake forward to bolt it on. It was in the roof. But now we are sitting nice. The rear two stacks will still be contacting the rear window, but that is okay since the rear window will likely have a air scoop.
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Some under side photos.
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[beeman]

Love the velocity stack intake. Do you have photos of the engine position with the gearbox attached?

[crash]

That is an extremely shallow pan. With the pickups on the drivers side and the crank rotating in the clockwise direction from the front of the engine perspective this may add to issues with windage and oil frothing. If I were you I think I would look at, at least, putting the scavenge pickups on the passenger side of the pan. Or make the pan deeper and use a windage tray between the pan and crank. Best case is you are giving up performance with this shallow pan, and worst case it could lead to premature engine failure. You may want to talk to the people at Dailey Dry Sump about design and maybe building you a custom pump and pan combo. Their stuff is very compact and relatively reasonably priced.

[VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC]

Looks like the entire oil pan is above the chassis tube? So you have 1.5" to work with to make that part of the pan deeper where the chassis isn't in the way?

[DopeOfWelding]

Love the velocity stack intake. Do you have photos of the engine position with the gearbox attached?

Not as of yet, I will on Friday. The “X” brace that sits behind / below the engine needs to be cut out and removed. I already added the brace that will replace it and be apart of the new engine cradle, so it is safe to chop out. The new bellhousing will interfere with it. Once I chop that out, I will put the transaxle back up in place!

[DopeOfWelding]

That is an extremely shallow pan. With the pickups on the drivers side and the crank rotating in the clockwise direction from the front of the engine perspective this may add to issues with windage and oil frothing. If I were you I think I would look at, at least, putting the scavenge pickups on the passenger side of the pan. Or make the pan deeper and use a windage tray between the pan and crank. Best case is you are giving up performance with this shallow pan, and worst case it could lead to premature engine failure. You may want to talk to the people at Dailey Dry Sump about design and maybe building you a custom pump and pan combo. Their stuff is very compact and relatively reasonably priced.

The guys that designed the dry sump pan deal in exclusively big horsepower M120 V12s. 1000hp NA ITBs, 1400+hp pro charged, as well as they have their hands in some Pagani Zonda race engines. I have full trust in the stuff they have put together, especially since I will not be pushing this thing nearly as hard as they do! I'll be happy with my little 450-500hp! I regularly talk to the owner of the company, I can express the concerns as he is not by any means a close-minded guy.

I also think the depth of the pan is very deceiving since the skirt of the block comes down very low. The main caps are 4 bolt plus 2 through the exterior of the block tying them in like a girdle.

The factory windage tray is a pretty compact, well designed part that sits tight in there. almost tight enough to call it a crank scraper! This was before I pulled the pump out.
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[DopeOfWelding]

Looks like the entire oil pan is above the chassis tube? So you have 1.5" to work with to make that part of the pan deeper where the chassis isn't in the way?

It's roughly 1/2" above the chassis tubing now. The pan I printed is the file supplied to me from the company that makes the actual part, they were cool enough to send me the file to let me print the mock up pan. I don't have any plans on changing it or designing my own. They exclusively do M120s , R&D and tested it. So I'm running it as is. It also looks deceiving because the crank centerline is probably a good 3" up in the block, making the pan appear much more shallow than it really is.

Attachment 217237

[Straversi]

Impressive. Love how technology is advancing hot rodding.
-Steve