Assuming you want the Ford Performance control pack to control the cooling fan...
Good, I was interpreting it the same way. thanks. Its encouraging that I'm starting to understand the wiring enough to ask better questions.
I am starting to feel like this 4 post master switch is becoming a bit like a gimmick if I don't have the alternator power on it. Otherwise the ECU, the PCB, the fan, the alternator are always ready to fire off. The only thing the switch would be blocking is the starter and any down stream RF stuff.
Which generates the next question...
Would the fuel pump also shut off if the master is tripped OFF? Assuming the Ford control pack harness splices in to the rear RF harness, the RF harness is on the switch side ( on/off) so it runs w/ switched power... Is the ford fuel splice in wire carrying its own power at that point being on the always on side of power?
Good, I was interpreting it the same way. thanks. Its encouraging that I'm starting to understand the wiring enough to ask better questions.
I am starting to feel like this 4 post master switch is becoming a bit like a gimmick if I don't have the alternator power on it. Otherwise the ECU, the PCB, the fan, the alternator are always ready to fire off. The only thing the switch would be blocking is the starter and any down stream RF stuff.
Which generates the next question...
Would the fuel pump also shut off if the master is tripped OFF? Assuming the Ford control pack harness splices in to the rear RF harness, the RF harness is on the switch side ( on/off) so it runs w/ switched power... Is the ford fuel splice in wire carrying its own power at that point being on the always on side of power?
If you follow the FFR instructions for running the fuel pump then yes. You end up using the Ford relay to kick it on but the ground circuit is now on the RF side. The inertia switch interrupts the ground so that shuts the pump off. Your essentially using the Ford supply (runs off of a relay in the control pack fuse box) to run the RF relay. It's kind of double relay'ed. But under this arrangement if the car rolled over the fuel pump should stop.
Making good progress with the Ford control pack and the chassis harness. But I've run into a little snag that's sort of confusing. I'm at the section where the Ford instructions are talking about a blunt 5 MIL + b RED and a blunt 6 HAAT RED. But I see these wires nowhere in the Ford harness. This is for a Gen 3, and I'm wondering did they update the harness so these steps are obsolete? Looking for feedback.
FOLLOW UP QUESTION
The chassis harness in the instructions calls for the light blue with to be cut back. I can't find where it says I should connect the thicker red chassis harness starter solenoid wires. BUT the dark blue wire on the Ford CP Harness goes to the starter with the switched 4awg power wire to control the starter.... PXL_20250323_183857707.jpg
FOLLOW UP QUESTION
The chassis harness in the instructions calls for the light blue with to be cut back. I can't find where it says I should connect the thicker red chassis harness starter solenoid wires. BUT the dark blue wire on the Ford CP Harness goes to the starter with the switched 4awg power wire to control the starter.... PXL_20250323_183857707.jpg
Do I even need the entire chassis harness leg to go to the starter or is the whole thing OK to delete the chassis harness leg?
Not sure I completely understand your question. But FWIW: When using the Ford CP, the only thing to the starter is the large +12V battery wire and the start wire from the Ford CP to the small post. The light blue RF wire to the starter is not used. That wire also uses a clutch safety switch which is also not used since the Ford CP has its own clutch switch. So you can either remove that entire light blue leg or just wrap it out of the way. The other light blue wire off the ignition switch goes to the starter motor request (SMR) on the Ford CP pigtail. To be honest, I find the FF Coyote installation instructions for the wiring a bit confusing. I'd recommend starting first with the Ford Performance instructions. If you understand those, the FF instructions make a little more sense IMO. Hope this helps.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread. Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023. Build 6: Mk5 Roadster 30th Anniversary #11,258. Build Thread.
Yes, 100% clearer on what goes to the starter (+12v batt & FCP dark blue starter lead), and the starter motor request Ford light blue to the RF ignition. Thanks.
Should I run the that "battery feed" to the switchd post? Looks like it as it brings power to the ignition.... What do I do with the other red wires in that bundle?
Yes, 100% clearer on what goes to the starter (+12v batt & FCP dark blue starter lead), and the starter motor request Ford light blue to the RF ignition. Thanks.
Should I run the that "battery feed" to the switchd post? Looks like it as it brings power to the ignition.... What do I do with the other red wires in that bundle?
Yes you need those wires. Coyote build or otherwise. They are the main power for the RF harness. Coincidentally, I discussed this exact topic in my 20th Anniversary build thread earlier today. Rather than repeat it all, here's the link. There are several posts so keep scrolling. Hopefully this answers your question. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post577381
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread. Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023. Build 6: Mk5 Roadster 30th Anniversary #11,258. Build Thread.
Yes you need those wires. Coyote build or otherwise. They are the main power for the RF harness. Coincidentally, I discussed this exact topic in my 20th Anniversary build thread earlier today. Rather than repeat it all, here's the link. There are several posts so keep scrolling. Hopefully this answers your question. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post577381
You are so awesome my man, thank you for taking the time with the voltage noobs! Yes, I get it 100% now on the RF power placement. This is what I thought you did but your builds are so clean its like watching a magician do slight of hand with wiring. Im looking at the photos but not always sure how you got this over here, and that over there.
De-loom, reroute, and buss bar back to the switch seems to be the trick. Thank you again!
Not much to report out / Putting this here for myself for documentation. The engine bay electrical is getting closer, this is what I did to get around the 4 post switch. I chose to block out the other posts with ray-chem shrink wrap then cut the excess off. Hindsight being 20/20 I dont think I needed the second hole in the upper fire wall. I could have gotten away with one for the control pack and two small in the drivers FB for rear and the other for alternator, sending and power in. But this works
Been really busy on the build but not posting much other that asking external questions. I’d like to combine what I've learned and drop it here to try and help that next person. First, electrical is for sure a "bite at a time" endeavor.
I got the harness in and got my positive buss bar installed (more on that later). I've removed many of the non-essential wires that the coyote or GPS gauges don't need. Such as the excess grey and green speed wire excess on the dash side. I'm repurposing them post dash for a reverse light. PXL_20250420_194732780.jpgPXL_20250413_171739380.jpg
I wired my fan to the orange wire to be engine controlled and made ground at the battery annex wire. Thanks to i.e.427 for the help and his videos. Just make sure you use the proper gauge. Can't go wrong if the wire gauge is a oversized some, small will cause issues is my only advice. PXL_20250406_123032230.NIGHT.jpg
Most of the work was to the trailer module. Swapping and repining in weather packs to reduce the number of connectors helped. PS make sure you solder the wire to the weather pack pin for the best connectivity. I also made the module as a jumper so it can be removed from behind the dash should it fail. (more on this below) I used these very helpful schematics (post below) and eventually it made enough sense for me to take action. If you see something odd let me know but it should follow the schematic 100%. One of the other items I am still WIP with is I wanted small led lights in the roll bar down bars. I repurposed the dual purple wires for power (with help from the forum) and rerouted them to each side of the rear most leg in the rear. Goal is to get brake lights up higher and make them match the brake light behavior. Ordered LED's from OZNIUM (not Ozempic, that's something different, lol) I'll place 6 in each bar. Quality seems good and they take 12v direct. I also took EdwardB’s advice on the three power wires to the starter. Cut them short and sent them to a bus bar which has its own VERY SHORT battery 4-gauge wire from the switched side of the master switch. This bus bar will power most everything I need. I plan on putting in a ground bus bar for the same purpose. I drew up some custom under dash stiffeners and placed the order with send cut send. That will allow me to close out most of the under dash I care about, land most of the electronics on them, give space for underlighting, and to help stiffen the bottom of the dash. Rear wiring is in place but the zip ties will be replaced with zip tie anchors, thus the blue dots and then re attached with zip ties for service. PXL_20250412_234118340.jpgPXL_20250420_194927569.jpgPXL_20250420_194945389.jpg
I have started mocking up the dash. The plan is to use the 3-panel removable system so I can service behind the dash and load the gauges and such. It also stiffens the dash and makes it look cool. I intend on doing an anodized flat PC or maybe flock the back panel and PC the inserts. Not sure, just don't want glare. It’s how we did it in the race shop. It's how I'm doing it here. I used a piece of angle as a straight edge to set the distance and make sure its all straight across the 3 panels.
Next steps will be to figure where to cut away, add 90 deg behind dash mounts, and how to hide the mounting bolts. I think I can hide them all but one on the far PS of the dash. PXL_20250422_233220724.PORTRAIT.jpgPXL_20250422_233134427.PORTRAIT.jpgPXL_20250422_223949882.jpg
Lastly, I got my billet buttons. The plan there is key and push start but that's WIP and still figuring here. I want to run the button and the key in parallel, it’s really only for cool factor but add redundancy.
Coolest of the lot is the START button. PXL_20250416_210950101.PORTRAIT.ORIGINAL~2.jpg
Those wheels look awesome! What color are you planning for the body?
Built an early MkIII years ago, sold years ago. Back after 18 years to build a MkIV Build Thread Here Partners: Levy Racing, Summit Racing, LMR, Breeze, Forte's Parts, Speedhut, ReplicaParts
MkIV Complete Kit Ordered 4/18/23, Delivered 7/11/23, First start 3/15/25. Legal 6/13/25. Boss 427W, Edelbrock Pro Flo 4, TKX (.68 5th), IRS, Wilwood Brakes, 18" Halibrands, Toyo R888R Tires, Custom Speedhut Gauges
Those wheels look awesome! What color are you planning for the body?
Leaning towards Deep Gloss Jet Black. I have a few other touches I want to add but need to figure it out 100%. I can say this, I'll be using Lumilor in a very unique way to make it stand out at night and add some safety to be seen. Stay tuned.
Prep will be the key to success here. The plan is to cut the holes that match the location of the removable panels. Then cut out the excess and join the circles and trim as necessary to make a smooth opening. Also not take to much. Here's where we sit ready to punch holes. PXL_20250502_230409599.jpg
I've got a 1", 4", and 2-1/8" hole saws. I'm gonna punch the center holes for the guide bit then tape them up and get to work. Fingers crossed.
I kind of wish I would've done a modular dash, just to make maintenance much easier. I suppose I still could. Hummm.....
Built an early MkIII years ago, sold years ago. Back after 18 years to build a MkIV Build Thread Here Partners: Levy Racing, Summit Racing, LMR, Breeze, Forte's Parts, Speedhut, ReplicaParts
MkIV Complete Kit Ordered 4/18/23, Delivered 7/11/23, First start 3/15/25. Legal 6/13/25. Boss 427W, Edelbrock Pro Flo 4, TKX (.68 5th), IRS, Wilwood Brakes, 18" Halibrands, Toyo R888R Tires, Custom Speedhut Gauges
I kind of wish I would've done a modular dash, just to make maintenance much easier. I suppose I still could. Hummm.....
Totally on board with modular dashboard, looks super cool. As for maintenance, there's not a whole lot that needs maintaining behind the dash.
Mk.4 FFR supplied Right hand drive
Received 12/2012 completed 12/2019
Gen1 Coyote / TKO600 / IRS
Lots of mods to make compliant for Australian design rules
Totally on board with modular dashboard, looks super cool. As for maintenance, there's not a whole lot that needs maintaining behind the dash.
On my first build, I got behind the dash plenty to add circuits for various things. A modular dash would make that much easier.
Greg
Built an early MkIII years ago, sold years ago. Back after 18 years to build a MkIV Build Thread Here Partners: Levy Racing, Summit Racing, LMR, Breeze, Forte's Parts, Speedhut, ReplicaParts
MkIV Complete Kit Ordered 4/18/23, Delivered 7/11/23, First start 3/15/25. Legal 6/13/25. Boss 427W, Edelbrock Pro Flo 4, TKX (.68 5th), IRS, Wilwood Brakes, 18" Halibrands, Toyo R888R Tires, Custom Speedhut Gauges
I have the the trailer led thing wired in right there. If it wets the bed at any point it wont be an issue. Every race car I've ever worked on had it and its worth its weight when things go bad. With this car you can avoid it with the dash tabs but you would still need to remove the steering column (potentially a turn signal), and I ain't about that life. PXL_20250505_231629524.PORTRAIT.jpg
Leaning towards Deep Gloss Jet Black. I have a few other touches I want to add but need to figure it out 100%. I can say this, I'll be using Lumilor in a very unique way to make it stand out at night and add some safety to be seen. Stay tuned.
Can't wait to see it. Those wheels are really cool
Originally Posted by gbranham
I kind of wish I would've done a modular dash, just to make maintenance much easier. I suppose I still could. Hummm.....
Man I thought about it too. I just couldn't get myself to chop up a CF dash. I really wanted to but got scared. lol
I love the look of everyone of these I have seen
Last edited by Blitzboy54; 05-07-2025 at 08:14 AM.
I've been working just not posting. Also life has been "plus size" recently. A few weeks ago a massive wind storm ripped the roof (shingles only) off my house, been dealing with repairs and insurance. We got Dad down to the Detroit Grand Prix. Then last week my wife loaned her car to a co worker for a 5 min trip and a Buck stepped out in front of it and smashed up the front end. Then in the same car Monday, my wife was on her way to the body shop and was T-Boned in an intersection and it totaled the car. Wife is 100% OK, no injuries other than a small rug burn on her left hand from the drivers side airbag curtain. That GMC Terrain is one safe vehicle, let me tell you.
So I've been occupied. PXL_20250609_191811163.jpgScreenshot_20250601-070417.png
As for the build there's a lot of minor details that aren't worth posting until now. Mostly put the item in, mock it up, take it out, work on this piece that interfaces with it, take it all out, make more holes, back in.... you get the picture. Its not hyper glamorous but its where I'm at in the build. There is also no road map for this part and I'm needing to think real hard before making a directional decision. I did send my hub to I.E.427 to get my turn signal going. Finally decided to stay with a fixed wood wheel. I was considering the removable MPI wheel with a Motion Race works hub. Meh, maybe way later down the road when I'm older and have issues getting in and out and want something to work on. Who knows, I see most get the build bug and do it again with a new car!
As for the dash finish I'm going back and forth. My first direction was to powder coat the main and the 3 panels a nice flat black color as I do not want reflection. I want my eye to be able to zone in quickly on the gauge at any time. We work on this all the time on the Corvette as shiny is a no no for the race drivers. Which got me thinking about flock. We flock the dash in our cars, why cant I do it here? Its totally a doable / inexpensive DIY project with an electrostatic kit you can buy on amazon...? But cleaning may suck.
Then I got looking at the dash and realized the main panel with all these cutouts is not exactly straight anymore (it bows) and there are small gaps behind the panels (plus the bows) that I need to fill that are caused by the rivnuts. The latest method of thought is to use the FFR dash pad to cover the main panel and powder coat the 3 panels. Thoughts?
Next step will be to make the upper dash tabs with dual lock. Right now the uppers are just cleco'd in place. That hole wont be used or be visible with the body on. As it sits the dash is lock a rock, going no where.
24 hours of LeMans is this weekend so I'll have that on tv Sat/Sun cheering on the customer cars while I work on the Cobra.
Made some dash tabs out of ASA and printed them solid. They accept either dual 10-24 fasteners w/ washer that use a 10-24 rivnut in the dash bar, or a self tapping screw to the dash bar. The tab is printed solid and once I mark the tab it is attached to the bar. I mark the alignment hole and transfer to the tab. I went against doing the dura lock as initially intended. It held but I didn't like the direction of the force the dash was applying on the Velcro so opted for a more positive system, but you could apply dura lock if desired.
I drilled the slightly undersized hole 75% of the way thru for the rivnut. Then with a soldering iron I pressed the rivnut into the ASA once it got hot enough. Now its set, flush, and thermally bonded to a really nice tab made from some badass material. The 75% depth leaves enough material to "shroom" out the back and help with retention. I could have gone nylon or CF for higher temp resistance but I have had good success with this material and it shouldn't get that hot. I also wont be wrenching on these bolts or applying a torque so breakout fear is minimal.
Took a break from the dash mounting. It was starting to wear on me and I'm not sure on the color, leather, suede, flock.....a Time out was needed I kept getting new ideas.
So I decided to fit up the roll bars for a change of pace. Mockup of the bars was pretty simple, ramping from small to large on the drill bit is key and step drill bits will be an MVP for getting the largest bits started.
I also wanted some extra visibility so I opted for some 6mm OZNIUM ed's in the down bars. I got a couple combination M6x1.0 taps to apply treads to the down bar. I used a very basic RP drill fixture to help set location and it did the job. Helped me keep them straight, control spacing, and consistent side to side rotational angle I also figured I could use it as a gauge off the edges to set the placement. Cheap and worked well, win win. image000003.jpg
Key note for anyone doing this!!! If you pass the wire loom out the bar at the bottom, make sure you place that hole properly (distance to the chassis post). So that when you fully compress the down leg to install the top hoop you don't have the hole so low it shears off the wires on the chassis post! image000002.jpg
I think the end result turned out well... on to the other side image000001.jpg
I really liked using those light for 3rd brake option. A great way to add a safety factor without detracting from the lines and look of the car.
Love your dash project. You're putting a lot more effort into it than I wanted to. I had all sorts of ideas I wanted to try on my build, but by the time I got to that part I just kind wanted to get it done and often reduced the scope of work to something simpler. It's easy to get burned out on a project like this and sometimes just walking away for a while is the best call. Keep it up!
I really liked using those light for 3rd brake option.... It's easy to get burned out on a project like this and sometimes just walking away for a while is the best call. Keep it up!
Thanks. My biggest issue with the dash is I keep getting more ideas on how to finish it. I ALSO keep getting more issues as I go for things I had not planned on.
Such as... after I removed the majority of the material from the main dash panel, installed it, attached the 3 thicker gauge pod panels, and applied the bends / tucked the panel.... The curvature applied forces the areas on the large panel that are thin at the top have a slight "wave" to them and create a unsightly gap to the back of the gauge panel. If I PC the panels you will see it, or potentially use the vinyl dash pad in the kit for the main, and PC the gauge panels. That might look cool. ??? IDK
But yes burn out can be a thing. That's why a needed a small win with the LED's to ramp up the excitement again.
Dash work continues. Ran into a snag on the 3 panel system and the cancelling turn signal I just got back. The dash would need to raise so the column doesn't interfere with the gauge bezel and vice versa. There's not enough room to raise it and not goof up my under panels. I got an idea on how to make lemonade from these lemons.... It's pretty cool. Stand by. Photo dump from the weekend below. Bonus, the air show turn around was near the house so I got to see it while working on the car.
The cancelling turn signal is really nice btw. Got a new stalk coming that should dress it up a tad too match the gauges. I also got my RP light switch panel in. Somehow it's exactly 1" short. Not sure how that happened but I think it will serve the purpose and likely will leave it alone. PXL_20250704_154823431.PORTRAIT.jpgPXL_20250704_162714427.PORTRAIT.jpgScreenshot_20250704-220549.pngPXL_20250706_215416447.jpgPXL_20250706_215443113.PORTRAIT.jpg Screenshot_20250630-073415.jpg
Lots to update. Feel like I turned the corner on electrical and I'm starting to make my terminations in the harness. Getting real good at the weather pack pin, crimp, solder, and assemble sequence. The first thing I hooked up was the E-STOP where I ran the two power cables up the tunnel and into the back dash area. The button it came with was Blah so I got a nice billet button with a back lit white logo that flashes when activated and goes solid when engaged. But DAMN I have to figure out something for the beeper. After about the third trial I started to lose my mind. We can do better. Maybe a raspberry Pi with a play list of cool sounds when engaged and disengaged.
I can hear it now. "GENTELMEN START...YOUR...ENGINES!" or "Hey MAV...Why are the wings coming out?" lol
Everything functions and I'm happy with it. https://www.instagram.com/m22.cobra/reel/DMWBWhKvSfz/
Next I go back to last weeks problem. Self induced, but ya'll should be aware if you try this. I used the BCC three panel setup with the 8 gauge setup they sell, and got my i.e.427 self cancelling turn signal. Both great products but with placing my dash where it needs to go so it doesn't uncover the 1x1 dash hoop it kind of lock the dash in for location. Issue is when you use both items the second gauge hole and the OD of the turn signal are a bit too close and the vintage gauge outer ring would hit the turn signal.
What to do? I could have said efff it and got a replacement panel. But I always want the car to tell a story. I went to my trophy case and pulled out my employee Hendrick Motorsports Challenge coin from 2010. Mr. H gave them to us with our employee number on them and challenged us to get JJ his fifth straight championship. So I 3D printed up a 3 piece assembly in ASA with heat stake threaded inserts and a similar bezel on the gauge to seat the coin. I'm loving it. Once the panels ar PC flat black and the main dash panel is leathered out it will really look good. PXL_20250719_173451405.PORTRAIT.jpg
Franks self cancelling turn signal is also really nice! I used the video he posted and got the $10 chrome stalk to finish it off. Definitely a must have for one of these cars. https://www.instagram.com/m22.cobra/reel/DMTFug7xTxt/
Lots still to terminate but we are creeping towards engine install.
If you read my post #18 here:https://www.instagram.com/m22.cobra/reel/DMTFug7xTxt/
You will see I had a rough time getting my headers and side pipes. The FedEX guy in MA... I'm sure is in the "find out stage" of his actions but the pipes and headers arrived with no issues. Shout out to FFR rep Tanya & my neighborhood friendly FedEX delivery gal Jennifer did a great job getting them here with a smile!
Looking forward to getting these installed. PXL_20250717_184934897.PORTRAIT.ORIGINAL~2.jpg
Serious question. Should you drop the coyote in with just the DS on or can you do both with the latest gen of FFR header? Ive seen it here before to bolt the ds up right before touchdown due to access. Is that still the best play?
Serious question. Should you drop the coyote in with just the DS on or can you do both with the latest gen of FFR header? Ive seen it here before to bolt the ds up right before touchdown due to access. Is that still the best play?
Neither header can be in place when you drop the Coyote in. The DS (left) is definitely the most difficult to bolt up after it's in. PS (right) pretty easy. I've had a little success with not dropping it the last inch or two onto the motor mounts and then the DS is a bit easier to access. You can snake the header in there and get the bolts in before dropping it the rest of the way. Jury's out whether it's worth the effort though.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread. Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023. Build 6: Mk5 Roadster 30th Anniversary #11,258. Build Thread.
I love the modular dash and personalized touch of the Hendrick coin. It doesn't get more custom to you, the builder, than that. Super cool.
Now that I've put some miles on the car with the stock gauge layout, I would do it differently next time. The gauge to the left of the steering wheel is pretty much useless. It takes me a couple seconds and moving my hand off the wheel to read the speedo in that location. What I've learned to do is know what rpm I'm running in 4th gear at 40 or 50 mph so I don't have to keep checking my speedo. (It's 2000 and 2200 rpm with the 3.55 rear gear and TKX transmission, btw.) I would keep the tach where it is and move the speed to a more central part of the dash much like what you've done there. And maybe gotten a tach that's easier to read at a glance than the FFR gauges. They look great, but aren't as easy to read as I would like. The things you learn!
What I've learned to do is know what rpm I'm running in 4th gear at 40 or 50 mph so I don't have to keep checking my speedo.
Keep up the good work!
Thanks! Two ideas I was toying with was to turn the rpm so the 7000 was at 12 o'clock so I'm good to watch where red line is easier.
OR
I already have a new gauge face that I want speed hut to swap in. Part of that face will have mini thick lines marking the TACH needle at 45, 55 , and 70 mph. Very similar to what you are trying to do
I installed my coyote a few weeks ago, declared victory, and sent the helpers on their way….. then realized I needed to lift it out of the brackets to remove the studs and install the headers. I was dreading it, but it turns out it is not that big of a deal. You literally only lift it a few inches (supporting the trans at the same time). I was stressing about it but it only took my son and I about 30 minutes to do it.
I took most of the header studs out before dropping the engine in. My thinking was that I could use 2 studs on each side to align and mount the header more easily. I ended up removing the studs later and would remove them from the start next time. Also, depending on what lift brackets you have, make sure you have enough room to get them off after installation.
The headers go on without too much trouble, it’s just tight and takes time. Plan an hour for the DS header install and you’ll be pleasantly surprised when you’re done before that. It’s about managing expectations to avoid frustration.
I took most of the header studs out before dropping the engine in. My thinking was that I could use 2 studs on each side to align and mount the header more easily. I ended up removing the studs later and would remove them from the start next time. Also, depending on what lift brackets you have, make sure you have enough room to get them off after installation.
The headers go on without too much trouble, it’s just tight and takes time. Plan an hour for the DS header install and you’ll be pleasantly surprised when you’re done before that. It’s about managing expectations to avoid frustration.
So if I'm tracking right from the previous responses. Install with no studs, stop the engine an inch or two before touchdown, support the trans, install studs (both sides?) and the DS header, full send to the motor mounts?
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Originally Posted by edwardb
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