Rick's Mark V Roadster Build

[rickster991]

I got Silicone Lubricating grease for the bushings. The manual does not mention using it in most cases. Do I add it to all bushings? The steering rack for example?

My delivery is delayed. Should be tomorrow.

[Jeff Kleiner]

The steering rack doesn’t move (unless you have a big problem!) so no lube.

Jeff

[rickster991]

Ok so the adage is, “if it moves it gets lube”. Got it!

[rickster991]

https://www.walmart.com/ip/492234819...a-958732a88ba2

Will this work for carpet?

[Jeff Kleiner]

https://www.walmart.com/ip/492234819...a-958732a88ba2

Will this work for carpet?

3M 90



Jeff

[rickster991]

Thanks!

[rickster991]

Met with a local custom paint shop. Has a lot of experience with fiberglass. Saw some of his work and looks top notch. He said he can use a variety of paints, but mainly uses Axalta. Any experience with this brand?

[Tango]

You had mentioned the Speedworks bolt-less roll bar kit earlier…..I worked Greg from 520Speedworks (real nice dude) giving him some measurements and was able to confirm that his 2” kit works with the MK5. I received it last week and will be installing it in the very near future but I already test fitted it and it is seamless.

[Jeff Kleiner]

You had mentioned the Speedworks bolt-less roll bar kit earlier…..I worked Greg from 520Speedworks (real nice dude) giving him some measurements and was able to confirm that his 2” kit works with the MK5. I received it last week and will be installing it in the very near future but I already test fitted it and it is seamless.

2" kit? The Mk5 has 1.5" bars :confused"

Jeff

[rickster991]

Same question??? I was looking at some slick third brake light solutions where folks add leds to the roll bar. They probably both won’t fit. How long is the mechanism? I assume there is no room inside the bar with it in place.

[rickster991]

Update. I received my kit on Saturday and spent all day Sunday doing the inventory, but I got it done. According to the manifest, I was only missing a couple of parts so I was excited to get started.

The delivery was quite the adventure. The road to my place is not passable, so I met the driver on a nearby highway.

IMG_5973.jpg


We proceeded to load in on a utility trailer on jack stands secured with straps. I did this so I could backup the trailer into the garage and be able to lift it off using my lift. The driver said it was a first for him, but the last guy loaded sideways on the back of his pickup! So not as crazy..

IMG_5974.jpg



This had the added bonus that I was able to take it and all 40+ boxes in one trip. So threw the dirt roads and fields to its new home.

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IMG_5905.jpg

[rickster991]

So I started the install and had some hiccups. The body is still on because I have a guy coming to look at it and give me an estimate.

Step 1. Install the PS rack. Went ok but I had to grind the bracket that holds it on because it was too tall and was flexing one of the lines.

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Step 2. Install front LCAs. Went ok but the sleeve was 1/16” wider than the bushings so could not get the washers/spacers in. After a few minutes of grinding was able to get them in, greased with silicone lubricant and torqued down. Could only do the left side as I found out I’m missing the sleeves for the right side. There was no inventory for this, so no way to know. I added to the missing parts list.

Step 3. Upper CAs. Here I’m stuck. Need some help. It calls for .84” spacers… but I only got .675, .4, and .5! I checked the entire inventory, 40+ sheets, and there is no 60766 spacer! Anyone run into this? I guess I will call them tomorrow.

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Step 4 will go better!!!

[danmas]

Wow! Your build manual has color pictures? Very cool!

[Tango]

My mistake on the 1.5 vs 2”…..the point is the Speedworks kit does work with the MK5 rollbars. I test fitted them last week.

[rickster991]

My mistake on the 1.5 vs 2”…..the point is the Speedworks kit does work with the MK5 rollbars. I test fitted them last week.

Did you happen to install the front upper control arms yet?

[danmas]

I can’t tall from your picture but it looks to me like your ps bracket is on the bottom of the power steering rack? Mine went over the top. Is it possible you have it upside down?

Regarding the spacers… I’m not sure where they belong based on your description but I would say you have a couple choices…

1. Call factory five or use the “ask a tech” section of this forum (I would call),
2. Go with what you have.could be problematic but not a huge difference. I dunno
3. Source the spacers from Amazon or McMaster… I have done that a lot….

I wouldn’t let it hold you up…

Fun watching your thread…

Dan

[rickster991]

I can’t tall from your picture but it looks to me like your ps bracket is on the bottom of the power steering rack? Mine went over the top. Is it possible you have it upside down?

It is over the top. You didn’t have to grind yours? Hmmm…

Regarding the spacers… I’m not sure where they belong based on your description but I would say you have a couple choices…

1. Call factory five or use the “ask a tech” section of this forum (I would call),
2. Go with what you have.could be problematic but not a huge difference. I dunno
3. Source the spacers from Amazon or McMaster… I have done that a lot….

I wouldn’t let it hold you up…

Fun watching your thread…

Dan

I’ll call them and checkout McMaster. Thanks!

[Erik W. Treves]

Step 3. Upper CAs. Here I’m stuck. Need some help. It calls for .84” spacers… but I only got .675, .4, and .5! I checked the entire inventory, 40+ sheets, and there is no 60766 spacer! Anyone run into this? I guess I will call them tomorrow.

IMG_5969.jpg

IMG_5970.jpg

Step 4 will go better!!!

If you look at the top of the picture that's the Coupe R configuration - I might have missed it - are you building an R? the uper control arm goes in between the frame mounts on the street versions.

[rickster991]

I reread the instructions this morning. Turns out I don’t have an R model. My engineer brain goes to the schematic over the picture! �� all is well! Lesson learned Read AND understand the instructions!

[rponfick]

Just a comment on the Breeze full gas pedal assembly. It will not fit the MK5 as the tube it mounts to has been removed in the MK5. I will use the FFR supplied pedal and then run a Lokar cable and use the Breeze suggestion of mounting the carb backwards to allow the cable to be in a large gentle bend around the front of the carb. It's funny that the carb does not know it is on backwards.

I have the mechanical linkage on my MK4, but it has been a nightmare. The original owner did not pin the lever arms and the one under the dash is slipping on the shaft and is impossible to get to now to pin. I will be replacing it using the Breeze pedal and long Lokar cable and backwards carb.
Ralph

[rickster991]

Ok thanks.

[danmas]

It is over the top. You didn’t have to grind yours? Hmmm…



I’ll call them and checkout McMaster. Thanks!

Well, I went and took a look since you asked. I really have no idea if this is an issue or not.


Anyone think I need to grind this down?

Dan

[rickster991]

That looks different than mine. Mine was arched instead of flat. It was bulging that tube that yours is barely touching. In the picture I posted the discolored are was completely round before I ground it down.

[edwardb]

Well, I went and took a look since you asked. I really have no idea if this is an issue or not.


Anyone think I need to grind this down?

Dan

That looks different than mine. Mine was arched instead of flat. It was bulging that tube that yours is barely touching. In the picture I posted the discolored are was completely round before I ground it down.

That particular cross tube doesn't have any fluid or high pressure. It's there is equalize pressure between the LH and RH boots as they compress/expand while turning. I wouldn't want the tube hard contacting that bracket. But bending it a little wouldn't hurt anything as long as it doesn't pull out of the boots. I haven't done a build where those safety brackets are used. Curious what the background is. But regardless, I'd be cautious about grinding them down, notching, whatever, potentially weakening.

[rickster991]

Making progress. I installed the left front suspension and brake components. I could not do the right side as I am missing parts. I painted the calipers yellow in homage to other cars I have enjoyed: I have a feeling they are not going to last, and I will be getting them powder coated in the future. I did run into installing the steering arm backwards because I test fit it with tie rod end from the top instead of the bottom. If you plan to mess with the calipers you will need thin wrenches to torque the slide pins on.

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I had to skip the rear suspension and brakes because I am missing parts. I moved on to the parking brake assembly. It went well. For those about to do this, I suggest you do not tighten the main section until it’s all together as I had to tighten/loosen it several times to get it done.

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I then proceeded to spend 4 hours installing the pedal assembly. I tried to put the pedals as far back as possible and still have full throw without hitting the frame. My tip here is do not cut the arm until you are done adjusting it to your liking. I barely had enough to fit it the way I wanted it because I cut it according to the manual. The pedals do go past where the existing sheet metal goes, so I will need to make some adjustments.

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And finally I installed my first rivet and got to use my new tool. It worked great.
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[rickster991]

I am struggling with the steering shaft. I’ve tried adjusting the depth at each u-joint but I cannot get it to not bind. Do I need to cut the shaft? Anyone else get through this on the Mark V? Thanks for any advice..

[PNWTim]

Update. I received my kit on Saturday and spent all day Sunday doing the inventory, but I got it done. According to the manifest, I was only missing a couple of parts so I was excited to get started.

The delivery was quite the adventure. The road to my place is not passable, so I met the driver on a nearby highway.

IMG_5973.jpg


We proceeded to load in on a utility trailer on jack stands secured with straps. I did this so I could backup the trailer into the garage and be able to lift it off using my lift. The driver said it was a first for him, but the last guy loaded sideways on the back of his pickup! So not as crazy..

IMG_5974.jpg



This had the added bonus that I was able to take it and all 40+ boxes in one trip. So threw the dirt roads and fields to its new home.

IMG_5975.jpg

IMG_5905.jpg

Where there's a will there's a way!

[PNWTim]

That particular cross tube doesn't have any fluid or high pressure. It's there is equalize pressure between the LH and RH boots as they compress/expand while turning. I wouldn't want the tube hard contacting that bracket. But bending it a little wouldn't hurt anything as long as it doesn't pull out of the boots. I haven't done a build where those safety brackets are used. Curious what the background is. But regardless, I'd be cautious about grinding them down, notching, whatever, potentially weakening.

I chose to grind a small scallop in the bracket rather than bend the tube but both are an option. The tube sat on mine and struck me as a wear point.

[PNWTim]

I am struggling with the steering shaft. I’ve tried adjusting the depth at each u-joint but I cannot get it to not bind. Do I need to cut the shaft? Anyone else get through this on the Mark V? Thanks for any advice..

If your setup is anything like a coupe make sure the pillow block(s) in the footbox and the dash aren't wobbling around i.e. loosely bolted. Binding can occur when one of the parts is out of alignment due to movement.

[rickster991]

I gave up trying to make adjustments. I fix one bind and it causes another. I cut the lower bar about 1/2” and it’s working! Until I attached the steering wheel and it was 90 degrees off! Not sure why did they did not make the screws on the steering wheel completely symmetrical??? I had to sand the steering wheel mount shaft to get it slide into the mount and steering wheel. Anyway took it apart for the twentieth time and rotated the u-joint on the steering rack. Good progress…

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[rponfick]

I gave up trying to make adjustments. I fix one bind and it causes another. I cut the lower bar about 1/2” and it’s working! Until I attached the steering wheel and it was 90 degrees off! Not sure why did they did not make the screws on the steering wheel completely symmetrical??? I had to sand the steering wheel mount shaft to get it slide into the mount and steering wheel. Anyway took it apart for the twentieth time and rotated the u-joint on the steering rack. Good progress…

IMG_6102.jpg

IMG_6103.jpg

IMG_6104.jpg

IMG_6105.jpg

I feel you pain. I am right there with you. Plan to bevel the edges of the steering bars a bit to see if I can get rid of the binding. Did you find a solution in your escapades? And the FFR gas pedal is giving me grief.
Ralph

[rickster991]

I feel you pain. I am right there with you. Plan to bevel the edges of the steering bars a bit to see if I can get rid of the binding. Did you find a solution in your escapades? And the FFR gas pedal is giving me grief.
Ralph

Yes I cut the lower bar about 1/2 inch and it removed the binding. Also as Tim mentioned, make sure bearings are tight while doing adjustments. For the accelerator I used an existing hole for the bottom of the mount and drilled for the top. I’ll take a close up tomorrow if that helps.

[Tango]

I encountered the exact same binding issues with the steering. Measure the lengths of the rods. Compare that to what the manual says they should be. In my case, I think the longest one was 2-3 inches too long. Once I trimmed them to match what manual said, the binding was resolved. It was very frustrating for me until I figured that out. I believe I received parts for the coupe which would account for it being slightly longer.

[rickster991]

Some detail on the gas pedal install. There is a hole in the frame cross member to accept the steering bearing and next to it is a hole for the cable.

IMG_6111.jpg

As far as attaching the pedal, there are two holes in the welded bracket in the foot box. When I used the second hole from the bottom to attach the bottom hole of the pedal bracket the top of the assembly lined up with the cable hole, so I decided the hole must be a guide to align the pedal. I then made the pedal parallel, as best I could, to the brake and marked and drilled the top hole. This kit seems to be infinitely adjustable which is good for some but scary when you get paralysis by analysis.

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Hopefully this helps.

[rickster991]

By the way, hopefully if I’m doing something wrong, more experienced builders will point it out!

[rickster991]

Quick tip, it takes very little pressure to snap off the cable ball joint…. Thank goodness I was not using it thanks to the generosity of Blitzboy giving me a Lokar cable. Be careful!

IMG_6117.jpg

[rponfick]

Some detail on the gas pedal install. There is a hole in the frame cross member to accept the steering bearing and next to it is a hole for the cable.

IMG_6111.jpg

As far as attaching the pedal, there are two holes in the welded bracket in the foot box. When I used the second hole from the bottom to attach the bottom hole of the pedal bracket the top of the assembly lined up with the cable hole, so I decided the hole must be a guide to align the pedal. I then made the pedal parallel, as best I could, to the brake and marked and drilled the top hole. This kit seems to be infinitely adjustable which is good for some but scary when you get paralysis by analysis.

IMG_6113.jpeg

IMG_6116.jpg

IMG_6112.jpg

Hopefully this helps.

Rick, thanks for the excellent photos. I had moved my gas pedal to the other side of the pivot cross shaft as shown in some of the manual photos, and this may be causing my alignment issues. I wanted to align/center the pedal between the brake and the inner footwell wall, but that may be my issue. Will try existing hole in bracket and see if that will work.

On the Lokar cable, is the adjustable end supposed to be on the firewall or carb end? I was planning to just use the other end of the cable to just clip around the FFR pedal shaft with the "C" clip and small pin.

Thanks, Ralph

[rickster991]

You’re welcome. I’m sure I’ll need some help from you on the next steps! As far as the cable,I assume this is the way it goes. It came out of the package with the ball joint on one side and a clevis on the other. I assumed the ball joint went on the pedal like the FFR cable in the pictures and the clevis goes on the EFI.

[rponfick]

You’re welcome. I’m sure I’ll need some help from you on the next steps! As far as the cable,I assume this is the way it goes. It came out of the package with the ball joint on one side and a clevis on the other. I assumed the ball joint went on the pedal like the FFR cable in the pictures and the clevis goes on the EFI.

I just checked the instructions with the Lokar cable and the pictures show it the other way around. Not sure it makes much difference, but the clevis fit my FFR lever very well. I did bend the levers a bit as per the manual and they are aligned nicely.
Now, back to the binding steering shafts.
Ralph
n

[rickster991]

Thanks, I’ll keep that in mind when I hook it up.