Jesse builds another Cobra #11,061 - First body work shots

[Jeff Kleiner]

I think I was one of the first to introduce the deep brass nuts to the forums---I was taught about them by my old school mentor over 45 years ago! The metallurgy between the brass and steel keeps them tight with heat cycles yet they don't seize. Win-Win!

Jesse, you don't need front hangers with the straight 4 into 4 headers, only when you have the extra flex joint with J-pipes or the ball flange headers.

Jeff

[gbranham]

I also used the brass nuts, at Kleiner's recommendation. They are magical! They draw up super tight, and don't come loose, yet easy to loosen when needed.

Greg

Exhaust Hanger 1.jpg

[TTimmy]

It's all looking really good - love the engine cover!

Tim

[Blitzboy54]

Trunk carpet

I didn't buy any extra carpet. I knew I would need more than what comes with the kit but I also knew I wasn't going to use the transmission tunnel piece so I thought I had enough. Unfortunately This was not enough for both the drop trunk and the cubby. I tried to find something local that worked but struck out. I ordered and extra piece from FFR and will finish the the back when it arrives



I prefitted the fuel pump cover with (you guessed it) 4mm rivnuts!





Rollbar improvement

Earlier in my build when I mounted my roll bars I have a few minor alignment issues. I ended up with a small gap.



To properly fix this I would need to cut off and re weld the rear stud. This is not going to happen. So just like in my 100 year old house, it is more important to look right than be right. With that in mind I ground down the contact points of the back leg so it makes clean contact with the roll bar. I marked the "high spots" and ground that down than tapered it up to the other end. This worked.



Lastly I wanted to secure the connection. I do not have any interest in putting in the Frankenstein bolt. I don't like the look. I ended up doing the same thing I did on my last build. I purchased a pair of 3/8-16 plugs, drilled and tapped under the bar. This binds the sleeve with the back leg. I will powder coat it with the roll bar and secure it with a little thread locker.

[gbranham]

Nice job, Jesse! Looking awesome!

Greg

[Blitzboy54]

I had gone to order a piece of carpet from FFR but paused because the shipping was almost as much as the carpet. I decided to wait and see if there was anything else I needed down the road so I could consolidate the shipping charges. Well I'm glad I did because my friend Scott reached out and just happened to have a spare piece in his garage. I should probably just save us all a lot of trouble and go right to Scott's house when I need something

Now the trunk carpet is done.



Moving on to the cockpit upholstery

This is by far my favorite part of the build. This is where you find out if what you planned is really going to work or not, so here we go! I start by gluing the tunnel cover to the top (only the top) of the transmission tunnel. The thought here is get it set on top, cut and wrap the hols for the storage box and cup holders then set it and rivet the tunnel down along the sides and back then finish the sides.







I put the inner footbox pieces in and mounted the head unit (hopefully for good). I have the back piece held up with clamps to see how it would mesh. I put the shift boot and trim ring in. I am still not 100% sold on the shift boot. I think I like it but at the same time the grey isn't a prefect match. I am going to roll with it for now as it looks sharp against all the black.

So far so good.

[gbranham]

Looking great, dude. Factory Five is pretty egregious with their shipping charges. I paid something like $30 in shipping for their louvers. Every time I have to order something from them, it chaps my hide.

[OB6]

Every time I see your seats, I get more eager to get mine. They should be done any day. I placed the order in December!

Really nice job with the console!

[Blitzboy54]

Every time I see your seats, I get more eager to get mine. They should be done any day. I placed the order in December!

Really nice job with the console!

It’s exciting for sure. Totally worth the wait. He posted mine on his FB page right before he shipped them. Perhaps you can get a preview there? Looking forward to seeing them.

[Blitzboy54]

Ok, I found something I like less that riveting. I officially like carpet installation less.

I will say this, a lot of people don't like the FFR carpet but I really do. Everything fits for the most part, if anything you have to trim a couple of pieces down but it's a lot of complicated shapes that all work together. Once you clear away all the loose material I think it looks pretty sharp. I used 3M Super 90. I also used a respirator especially in the foot box. The fumes can be a lot, especially when you get your head in there.









All in all I think the black carpet pulls everything together. I of course put the seat back in to see how it looks.

[gbranham]

Nice, dude! I dreaded carpet install, too, but found the FFR carpet to be pretty nice, and I had almost no trimming to do. Looking good!

[Its Bruce]

It was a pain, but I found it more rewarding than most other parts of the build. Almost like carpeting is what makes a car a car. That probably says more about me than it does carpeting itself.

Interior looks great - very clean.

[OB6]

I put off carpeting as long as possible, but found it gratifying in the end.

[Blitzboy54]

I tried to go out on another go cart run to collect some engine tune data. The first time the car was pretty squirrely. I found I had neglected to fully tighten a few linkage points in the upper A arm so when this was fixed I tried again. Still squirrely. Time to move on to an alignment. I purchased an inexpensive camber tool from amazon and calibrated it against a level. I realize this isn't going to hold up long term, the goal here is to put it in the wheelhouse before I take it to a shop near the end of the build.

I set the ride height (I like mine on the little on the higher side) and got to work. I measured the center of the car in both the front and back. I marked it on both the frame and the floor. I then measured equally to each jack stand and ran a string from front to back.



I used a level and set the edge against the grease fittings of the upper and lower A arms and secured it to the wheel with a ratchet strap. I then measured this angle to set the caster. I used the camber gauge against the level. It goes as far as 6.5 degrees. This is a touch short of the 7 degrees needed but that will be close enough for now



I worked the camber and toe back and forth. They tend to knock each other out but every adjustment it gets closer. Eventually I was able to get both into spec.









It turns out everything was pretty far out. The wheels were all essentially pointing in different directions. It looks right after all the tweaking. I look forward to taking it out for another spin.

[cv2065]

Wow, you are getting close Jessie. Looking good dude! I just had a thought that you should get your calipers done up in that orange!

[Blitzboy54]

Wow, you are getting close Jessie. Looking good dude! I just had a thought that you should get your calipers done up in that orange!

I 100% thought about this and went as far as contacting Wilwood about it. Long story short it was cost prohibitive.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Good on ya' Jesse!

...I worked the camber and toe back and forth. They tend to knock each other out but every adjustment it gets closer....

Just for future reference...toe does not affect caster or camber but they affect toe and each other. Always set toe last after caster and camber are where you want them.

Jeff

[jengum]

Hi Jessie...can you describe more how you measured the caster? I had trouble following how you placed the level against the upper and lower control arm grease fittings and using a ratchet strap to attach to the wheel.

[Mike.Bray]

I'm also interested in how you set the caster. If caster is uneven from side to side it will pull.

Be sure and check the air pressure in the tires, should be around 23 PSI. If you had a tire store mount them they would have pumped them up to about 35 PSI. That will make it drive really funny.

[cv2065]

I 100% thought about this and went as far as contacting Wilwood about it. Long story short it was cost prohibitive.

Any local powder coater should be able to it. I can't imagine it would cost that much. Annoying to have to disassemble/reassemble and bleed everything again though. Either way, it's all looking great!!

[PNWTim]

When you order Wilwood calipers a custom color is $175 per caliper. Multiply by 6 for the total...

[Blitzboy54]

Hi Jessie...can you describe more how you measured the caster? I had trouble following how you placed the level against the upper and lower control arm grease fittings and using a ratchet strap to attach to the wheel.

I'm also interested in how you set the caster. If caster is uneven from side to side it will pull.

Be sure and check the air pressure in the tires, should be around 23 PSI. If you had a tire store mount them they would have pumped them up to about 35 PSI. That will make it drive really funny.

I should have taken a better picture. I used a level but any straight edge would work. I strapped it snug against the tire with a ratchet strap (wrapped it around the tire and pinned the level to the tire). I lined the bottom edge with the lower A arm grease fitting. I then positioned the upper part of the level with the upper A arm grease fitting. For all intents and purposes this creates a castor line from center to center of the control arms. I then snugged the strap down a click so it wouldn't slip. If you hold the magnet of the camber gauge against the level it will tell you the angle. I adjusted the sleeves until I got to 6 1/2 degrees (as far as my gauge goes). This is a half a degree short but again I am using inexpensive tools, a ratchet strap, my eyeball and a string. The only goal here is to get it in the ball park for go carting or eventually to be able to drive it to the alignment shop.

I drove it today around the block and it's night and day better than it was. So mission accomplished. I wouldn't do any spirited driving until it was properly aligned and corner weighed.

[Blitzboy54]

When you order Wilwood calipers a custom color is $175 per caliper. Multiply by 6 for the total...

They quoted me more than that when I called last summer. You also have to purchase them from them vs FFR. The price is about 25% more for the kit, plus the color. I could like Chad said have them stripped and done locally but for some reason I got hung up on losing the logo. I can always do it down the road.

[cv2065]

They quoted me more than that when I called last summer. You also have to purchase them from them vs FFR. The price is about 25% more for the kit, plus the color. I could like chad said have them stripped and done locally but for some reason I got hung up on loosing the logo. I can always do it down the road.

$175 per caliper for a custom color? Whew...I would have passed too. I'm hip to the Wilwood logo as well. Like I said, you've got a stunner there either way. Can't wait to see you on the road!

[Blitzboy54]

Seat Belts and Bulb seal

Now that the carpet is in I moved on to the bulb seal (I already test ft the body). I have also re instituded a little hack I learned last build. If you stack a large and small bumper that comes with the FFR kit it gives you 5/8 lift on the front of the body.



I also closed up the drivers footbox. This has taken a little getting used to as I am still updating my engine tune. It was nice being able to pull the clutch switch by hand. Have to climb in the cockpit now (First world problems)





I went with a 2" cam lock harness from Zbros. They are designed with integrated padding on the shoulders and have the look I wanted.



It's also a 5 point harness.



The seats are setup in a way that makes using or not using the submarine belt really easy. Just lift the bottom cushion, pull the belt back through and stash it there.



Easy peasy

[Jeff Kleiner]

It's looking really great Jesse! I'm debating what I want to do on seats but think I may have to bite the bullet and go with the Intatrims.

If you stack a large and small bumper that comes with the FFR kit it gives you 5/8 lift on the front of the body.

That bumper is a little farther rearward than ideal. I like for it to pick up the body all the way at the end of the tubes:



Maybe just add another pair farther forward.

Cheers!

Jeff

[Blitzboy54]

It's looking really great Jesse! I'm debating what I want to do on seats but think I may have to bite the bullet and go with the Intatrims.




That bumper is a little farther rearward than ideal. I like for it to pick up the body all the way at the end of the tubes:



Maybe just add another pair farther forward.

Cheers!

Jeff

Will do!

[OB6]

It's looking really great Jesse! I'm debating what I want to do on seats but think I may have to bite the bullet and go with the Intatrims.

Do it, join the club Jeff! It's great that they can be customized any way you want. Just waiting for mine to arrive...

[cv2065]

+2 on the Intatrim seats. Nice quality stuff and great to deal with. You're almost there Jessie. Looking SWEET!!!

[Blitzboy54]

Chin Spoiler

The general direction of my build is putting a modern twist on the project. Modern wheels, seats, dash and a console that includes bluetooth. To continue the theme I decided from the beginning I wanted a chin spoiler. FFR doesn't make one, there have been a few vendors that have come and gone that have offered them in the past. There is a company TruFiber (can be seen here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XoX1fhUoo1Y) that makes a carbon fiber version for the factory five but I don't particularly like it. I want something that is painted in and has some contour to it.

This brings me to Backdraft. They offer a fiberglass splitter for their cars. Their bodies are different than ours so it's not a direct fit. It will require some trimming and molding. This is what it looks like out of the box. I have it roughly marked and remembered to take a picture just as I started cutting.



After marking and trimming this is the first draft. You can see I have the edge marked where it will have to be trimmed to match the wheel well. I knocked down the parting lines in that spot so I can get a clean fit.







I also got a start on the lights. I am going with the Jeep halo style with a twist on turn signals. A fellow builder's "Mako" build goes by the handle topherchrisb (whos is also doing a modern build) had an incredible idea for LED lights for the turn signals. He found Jeep side lights and repurposed them. Also designed a really cool bezel for them. He was awesome enough to share the 3D print file with me and I have shamelessly copied his lead. I will break down what I did in a future post but to give credit where credit is due please go to his build thread starting with post #95. Thanks again Chris!!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...and-wait/page3

These are particularly awesome because they also have halo running lights and function as amber turn signals.

[cv2065]

That's what I'm talking about Jessie! I'm thinking of doing the same. I didn't like the CF one from TruFiber either, but always like this one from Backdraft. Plenty of cars with it. Looks like other than the side trimming that it fits pretty true to the bottom of the front end?

Not sure how BD affixes it to their front end. How are you going to go about doing it? 520 Speedworks did install the TruFiber in a video if you haven't seen it. Not a direct bolt on even though it was made for the body.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XoX1fhUoo1Y

[Blitzboy54]

That's what I'm talking about Jessie! I'm thinking of doing the same. I didn't like the CF one from TruFiber either, but always like this one from Backdraft. Plenty of cars with it. Looks like other than the side trimming that it fits pretty true to the bottom of the front end?

Not sure how BD affixes it to their front end. How are you going to go about doing it? 520 Speedworks did install the TruFiber in a video if you haven't seen it. Not a direct bolt on even though it was made for the body.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XoX1fhUoo1Y

They use button heads and nuts and drill through the body. I am still trying to figure out how I want to go. The BD is designed to take it off if you want so they put a rubber liner behind it. I am probably going to permanently attach it. I just don't see how I would be able keep the oil cooler opening from getting scratched as a removable piece. I am sort of working it out as I go. I may try to utilize those splitter rails though like he had in that video. I think a set might look cool. We will see.

**Edit** As I am typing this I realize it might make sense just to remove the part that wraps around the lower part of the oil cooler opening all together and have it run just underneath it. I think that might make it cleaner, also as a bonus I could make it removable.

[danmas]

Jesse your first build killed it. This build is insanely cool and makes me want to do my next one even more…. So inspiring seeing your skill. Amazing dude, simply amazing.

[danmas]

Dash

Glove box

I broke everything back down and built the glove box. I did have one issue. First the bar that the hinges attach to are pre drilled. The holes do not line up with the glove box holes. They needed to be widened significantly. The other is the aluminum plate that gets epoxied to the glove box door. The grooves that go around the hinges needed to be cut a CM deeper. If you don't the plate doesn't fit right. Originally I wanted to install a push button lockable latch. I don't love having to use a key every time but all the latches I found were too big. I did however find this one that better fits the look of the dash. It uses a round key and looks pretty sharp. I also lined the box with felt, I am unsure If I will also line the door. We will see.

Could you share where you got your glovebox latch from? I like it and want to put it in mine….

[cv2065]

They use button heads and nuts and drill through the body. I am still trying to figure out how I want to go. The BD is designed to take it off if you want so they put a rubber liner behind it. I am probably going to permanently attach it. I just don't see how I would be able keep the oil cooler opening from getting scratched as a removable piece. I am sort of working it out as I go. I may try to utilize those splitter rails though like he had in that video. I think a set might look cool. We will see.

**Edit** As I am typing this I realize it might make sense just to remove the part that wraps around the lower part of the oil cooler opening all together and have it run just underneath it. I think that might make it cleaner, also as a bonus I could make it removable.

As an FYI, Mike Forte has the mold and can make these chin spoilers that fit FFR Roadsters. Not sure what the cost is but I sent him another note to find out. I think they look like this.



I think the Backdraft one looks a little more 'modern' but the other one might fit better. Not sure. Anxious to see what you come up with Jessie.

[Blitzboy54]

Could you share where you got your glovebox latch from? I like it and want to put it in mine….

Yes sir,

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B96Q2PVK...n_title_2&th=1

FYI, the body of the latch is about the same. I needed to massage the hole and make some adjustments to the latching device to make everything fit. It's a little deeper and wider. You can see here what I did.

As an FYI, Mike Forte has the mold and can make these chin spoilers that fit FFR Roadsters. Not sure what the cost is but I sent him another note to find out. I think they look like this.



I think the Backdraft one looks a little more 'modern' but the other one might fit better. Not sure. Anxious to see what you come up with Jessie.

I saw that old thread on the other forum. I reached out to Erik to see how he mounted it. I'm curious if Mike still makes them. I'm happy enough so far with the initial fit of this one that I am unlikely to change course but never say never. Let me know what you find out. The reference point is $450, that's what I paid for the Backdraft part.

[cv2065]

Yes sir,

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B96Q2PVK...n_title_2&th=1

FYI, the body of the latch is about the same. I needed to massage the hole and make some adjustments to the latching device to make everything fit. It's a little deeper and wider. You can see here what I did.





I saw that old thread on the other forum. I reached out to Erik to see how he mounted it. I'm curious if Mike still makes them. I'm happy enough so far with the initial fit of this one that I am unlikely to change course but never say never. Let me know what you find out. The reference point is $450, that's what I paid for the Backdraft part.

Looks like that one is a no go I think. Mike Forte came back and said its only for MKI and MKII and not sure how it would fit on an MKIV. Probably good to stay where you are. Iconic is out of stock of those chin spoilers. Must be a popular item!

[Blitzboy54]

Looks like that one is a no go I think. Mike Forte came back and said its only for MKI and MKII and not sure how it would fit on an MKIV. Probably good to stay where you are. Iconic is out of stock of those chin spoilers. Must be a popular item!

Give them a call. It said out of stock 5 months ago when I was ready to pull the trigger. The guys who answered the phone said he had several in the back and asked if I wanted one. He gave me a warning to have it "professionally installed". I just said yes of course and left it at that. I didn't tell him it was for a Factory Five. Sometimes people get weird about stuff like that. At any rate he shipped it out the next day.

[Blitzboy54]

I have committed to what I believe is the best way to adapt the Backdraft splitter to the Factory Five body. It's designed to wrap around the bottom of the oil cooler vent but it's a pretty tight fit. I don't think the dimensions are the same (it can be made to work like this I just prefer it this way). I knocked it down and sanded it a bit with the ultimate goal of having it line up with the bottom of the opening. For all intents and purposes it will be an extension of the bottom opening.





I also figured out how I am going to mount the base. I used 5/16 button heads, fender washers and lock nuts.





There will be some button heads along the top. This is unavoidable as the contours of the BD spoiler are not the same. It will require mechanical force to hold it' new shape.

[topherchrisb]

Chin Spoiler


I also got a start on the lights. I am going with the Jeep halo style with a twist on turn signals. A fellow builder's "Mako" build goes by the handle topherchrisb (whos is also doing a modern build) had an incredible idea for LED lights for the turn signals. He found Jeep side lights and repurposed them. Also designed a really cool bezel for them. He was awesome enough to share the 3D print file with me and I have shamelessly copied his lead. I will break down what I did in a future post but to give credit where credit is due please go to his build thread starting with post #95. Thanks again Chris!!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...and-wait/page3

These are particularly awesome because they also have halo running lights and function as amber turn signals.

I am a big fan of your previous roadster build and took some inspiration from it for mine. This build is turning into a real eye catcher as well. I can't wait to see the final product. Glad you like the lighting solution. It seems like you'll be able to road test it before me even though I have a two year head start on you. I may be a little embarrassed in that fact. :P