This is a view from the bottom. Looks like you have the pedal stop plate mounted on the top, or you didn't add the spacers between the stop plate and the bottom of the bracket. When mounted on the underside, the lock nut should still be below the top of the plate. That would give you more travel.
AND, Don't use the cable supplied from FFR. It's junk. Hard to push and won't last long before failing (1,000 miles or so in my case). Purchase a Ford cable P/N M-7553-C302. Adjustable on the fork end.
Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-27-2020 at 02:49 PM.
MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035
Still planning a Coyote, right? Then you won't use the clutch switch you just installed. The Coyote control pack comes with a clutch switch that matches the harness. In your Coyote completion kit, Factory Five has a mounting piece that goes on the clutch quadrant you just installed and the footbox. Then the Ford provided switch mounts to that. Check your Coyote installation instructions.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread. Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023. Build 6: Mk5 Roadster 30th Anniversary #11,258. Build Thread.
I thought that you plan to use a hydraulic clutch. Am I mistaken? I can tell you that based on the Anniversary car I’m working on that you’re going to want to move your clutch and brake pedal pads as far to the left as possible. I am really not impressed with the latest throttle pedal mounting arrangement...too tight to the brake pedal and needs to be farther forward so that it isn’t on the same plane as the brake & clutch.
This is a view from the bottom. Looks like you have the pedal stop plate mounted on the top, or you didn't add the spacers between the stop plate and the bottom of the bracket. When mounted on the underside, the lock nut should still be below the top of the plate. That would give you more travel.
AND, Don't use the cable supplied from FFR. It's junk. Hard to push and won't last long before failing (1,000 miles or so in my case). Purchase a Ford cable P/N M-7553-C302. Adjustable on the fork end.
I'll have to check for spacers, I didn't see any in the bag, or accessory bag either... thx for the pics, that helps
Originally Posted by edwardb
Still planning a Coyote, right? Then you won't use the clutch switch you just installed. The Coyote control pack comes with a clutch switch that matches the harness. In your Coyote completion kit, Factory Five has a mounting piece that goes on the clutch quadrant you just installed and the footbox. Then the Ford provided switch mounts to that. Check your Coyote installation instructions.
yes a coyote, didn't know it came with a separate clutch switch - since I don't have the Engine/Trans yet, I hadn't even thought that far ahead... although the kit is designed for a Coyote
does the Coyote Completion kit come with the engine & ECU? or with the kit? Assuming I use a different gas pedal too?
Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner
I thought that you plan to use a hydraulic clutch. Am I mistaken? I can tell you that based on the Anniversary car I’m working on that you’re going to want to move your clutch and brake pedal pads as far to the left as possible. I am really not impressed with the latest throttle pedal mounting arrangement...too tight to the brake pedal and needs to be farther forward so that it isn’t on the same plane as the brake & clutch.
Jeff
oh Jeff - you're right, I'm going with a hydraulic clutch - so I don't even need this quadrant (ugh!) I'll have to reach out to Mike Forte on getting his hydraulic setup...
It really seems that if you deviate from the master plan at all, you have to REALLY think ahead... even this early in the game!
Thx guys! You're awesome!
...does the Coyote Completion kit come with the engine & ECU? or with the kit? Assuming I use a different gas pedal too?
oh Jeff - you're right, I'm going with a hydraulic clutch - so I don't even need this quadrant (ugh!) I'll have to reach out to Mike Forte on getting his hydraulic setup...
It really seems that if you deviate from the master plan at all, you have to REALLY think ahead... even this early in the game!
Thx guys! You're awesome!
The Coyote Completion kit doesn't come with either the engine or ECU; it has to be ordered as an option from Factory Five. Coyote gas pedal is not included with the kit and is part of the controls pack. Yes, a hydraulic clutch will require configuring the pedal box entirely differently than how you have assembled it.
Planning ahead is good---not just early in the game---but before the game even starts
The Coyote Completion kit doesn't come with either the engine or ECU; it has to be ordered as an option from Factory Five. Coyote gas pedal is not included with the kit and is part of the controls pack. Yes, a hydraulic clutch will require configuring the pedal box entirely differently than how you have assembled it.
Planning ahead is good---not just early in the game---but before the game even starts
Jeff
ok - so I have the FFR coyote completion kit then
16863 - Coyote Installation Kit: Includes Coyote accelerator install and fitment kits (assorted fittings, lines, etc.)
I called Mike Forte and ordered the hydraulic master cylinder setup for the clutch.
P74 in the directions above are for a clutch cable system, where can I find directions to modify for hydraulic clutch and clutch switch? clutch-switch-coyote.png
I mentioned the Coyote fitment kit because you show it on your order form in your linked website. Shouldn't be any question about what's in it. You have the inventory sheets, right? Has all the details. Including the mount for the upper clutch switch I mentioned earlier. Although the Factory Five pieces assume you're using the clutch cable quadrant mod, which you're now removing. Several build threads including mine show how to still mount the switch with a hydraulic setup. The Drive By Wire (DBW) accelerator pedal comes with the Ford Performance control pack. Can't speak for Gen 1 Coyote (never did one) but Gen 2 and Gen 3 use the same DBW pedal.
I mentioned the Coyote fitment kit because you show it on your order form in your linked website. Shouldn't be any question about what's in it. You have the inventory sheets, right? Has all the details. Including the mount for the upper clutch switch I mentioned earlier. Although the Factory Five pieces assume you're using the clutch cable quadrant mod, which you're now removing. Several build threads including mine show how to still mount the switch with a hydraulic setup. The Drive By Wire (DBW) accelerator pedal comes with the Ford Performance control pack. Can't speak for Gen 1 Coyote (never did one) but Gen 2 and Gen 3 use the same DBW pedal.
thx again as usual Paul - I wasn't thinking I'd need the instructions for parts I don't have yet, but there are dependencies as has been pointed out - I will be digging into these docs as well..
obviously FFR can't account for every change/mod - and I've already started collecting parts that won't be used in my build (as many have)
is there a need for the lower clutch switch? or is it an extra part now?
I still have the mount, but I'm not seeing a section for in across the 3 manuals (Coyote install, control pack, ffr manual)
painted up more stuff for the power brakes, and rust protected the driveshaft too...
did some frame cutting today to mount the whitby brake booster arm... a little unnerving to cut a perfectly good chassis, it's done nothing wrong to met (yet) LOL
pre-assembled the booster and master cylinder efT6eKV.jpg
and realized that I now have to take this all apart a 3rd time to drill the holes for the brake booster LOL vOSP6QU.jpg
at least my Wilwood clutch master cylinder arrived today from Mike Forte so I can get that mounted up after the booster, and he shipped me the breather port for the IRS too...
it's been a busy work week so didn't progress much on the pedal box, I did get some cutting fluid and a step-bit - but realized I need a much longer step bit as you're not supposed to cut metal thicker than the step
the footbox metal is 5mm thick, the pedal box is 3.5mm so both together are almost 9mm... It's just one 3/8" hole so I may just hog it out the rest of the way
on a side note - the skeleton team came through at FFR! IMG_0252.jpgIMG_0261.jpg
yep! finally got my IRS sleeves and toe adjuster arms!
my son was at work, so I attempted the IRS center installation like many have suggested with some ratchet straps
1. screwed in the rear bolts just enough to support, and initially slid the front bolts in
2. placed a front set of straps behind the front mount points
3. placed a rear set of straps behind the rear mount points
4. note that both straps are tied into mounts on the chassis near the back of the seat box
slowly getting the center off-ground, I worked both front and back up to where I needed to readjust the straps a bit
the front of the center section needs to go up and over the 4" frame tube, so I dropped the rear straps and kept cranking on the front eventually swinging it over
the trick to get the back locations in alignment was to use a jack to support the center, while I moved the strap mount points rearward of the center section
I placed those straps toward the front which created a pull effect toward the rear of the vehicle - once everything was aligned, simply slide the front bolts in, and screw in the rears
this was quite simple after all said and done, the hardest part was determining the strap points on the body, I was done in about an hour - all torqued down and ready for the rest!
afterwards my wife and I visited some friends and they showed us their '62 Sunbeam Alpine that they've had since the early 70s
paint dried, reassembled the pedalbox, pre-installed the steering shaft bushing inside the footbox for clearance
test fit - the wilwood pedalbox needs trimmed to fit the steering shaft bushing on the inside of the footbox, plus you can see how close the tolerances are with the brake booster
fits perfectly now... I just need to sand the brake pedal mount, for some reason the booster rod won't slip on - but lunch break is over, will tackle later IMG_0371.jpg
I'm thinking this would be a good template for FFR to use if folks will be using the Wilwood Pedalbox AND power brakes... would be really simple for them to convert the existing design
Whitby ships a slide-pin with the '33 kit, but not the Roadster kit, maybe a miss - but I figure this is secure with a cotter pin IMG_0375.jpgIMG_0376.jpg
You do nice work and keep everything clean. If you would, do me a favor and put flat washers under both ends of those bolts in the frame kick out mod. Just my OCD on some things, others not so much, LOL.
20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.
Todd,
You're going to have to take another Mulligan. I see from this photo...
...that you have sandwiched the footbox front bukhead with the two piece bearing shell. This is incorrect; both halves must be on the same side and in fact when using a brake booster they should be installed on the inside. Additionally, when using a booster the collar with the setscrews should be pointing rearward rather than forward as you currently have it.
You do nice work and keep everything clean. If you would, do me a favor and put flat washers under both ends of those bolts in the frame kick out mod. Just my OCD on some things, others not so much, LOL.
Todd,
You're going to have to take another Mulligan. I see from this photo...
...that you have sandwiched the footbox front bukhead with the two piece bearing shell. This is incorrect; both halves must be on the same side and in fact when using a brake booster they should be installed on the inside. Additionally, when using a booster the collar with the setscrews should be pointing rearward rather than forward as you currently have it.
Jeff
actually both pieces are on the inside of the footbox (see pic below) just the bolts are on the front of the box, both bezels and the rotating mass are internal - maybe it's the color of the chassis that's throwing you off IMG_0378.jpg
I've played with the setscrews both directions in/out and it looks like it will work with the way it's setup on the outside using the Replica Parts spacer, there's enough wiggle room, if not, I can loosen and rotate it pretty easily.
I changed my power steering option a while back when I realized the epowersteering.com setup wouldn’t fit in the engine bay with the Coyote motor. So I opted to get the KRC power steering kit from FFR. The parts finally came in and I complemented the kit with some options as well. My rack showed up a few weeks back, along with other parts, I believe the only thing on my POL now is the front bumper, and 2 items from the PS rack.
A few more items to tweak the setup. Many have said the KRC steering pump feels a bit 'over-boosted' so a new KRC Power Steering 25304000 flow control fitting can help with that. (won't need it yet, but have it in house)
Also added the Moog ES2150RL tie-rod ends as they are much beefier than the ones that come with the FFR kit.
Now onto the install... first I had to remove the bushings and sleeves from the power rack - simple enough with a few good whacks with a hammer, then install the offset rack mount kit from Breeze. Mine slid right in, no interference. Then it's time to mount to the chassis. The MKIV didn't need any chassis modifications - just had to work the angles and it fit perfectly! Measuring side to side, the differences were within .125" between both sides, so I tightened the rack down.
Next was to setup the tie rod ends, this is where I learned yet another way to inadvertently put the wrong side parts on.
The steering arms were swapped side to side so the TRE didn't fit (it's an angled hole). (separate thread on this!) IMG_0491-768x1024.jpg
I had to swap the footbox bearing to have the allen threads inside the footbox due to the power brake booster interaction...
I pray I never have to undo this once the panels are in place as it will require a great amount of contortion to get to this spot!
I have the Russ Thompson turn signal, so I'm holding of on finishing the top section right now to read through the docs a bit more...
Todd,
Just so you know...don't get too carried away and make that steering shaft installation permanent just yet. It'll have to be disconnected from the rack and moved out of the way to install the Coyote.
lots going on this past weekend, and I finally got to use the nutsert tool for the first time, dang that's a great tool! IMG_0540.jpg
I started fitting panels on the car and applying insulation prior to mounting because everyone says it's a PITA once it's in place already!
upper passenger side panel and driver front footbox, another great place to use themal/sound scraps because nobody will see them, and they'll help keep the footbox cool! IMG_0541.jpgIMG_0543.jpgIMG_0556.jpg
center dash panel, made insulation for those small areas - no sense in throwing away scraps because they fill in the gaps!
using spare boxes to make more templates, hope to get more panels setup and fitted... IMG_0545.jpgIMG_0544.jpgIMG_0547.jpg IMG_0548.jpgIMG_0549.jpg
dropped off 9 more parts at the powder coater, soon will be able to mount the Breeze battery box and radiator shield IMG_0555.jpg
finished up the passenger box today (sans floor for now)
my son stopped by to help align everything and put some clecos in - i finished up today while I was on a call IMG_0565.jpgIMG_0571.jpgIMG_0572.jpgIMG_0573.jpgIMG_0574.jpg
just have to fill in the seams with some thermotec and it's buttoned up!
plus my son brought his GT350 over to show off his new JLT intake and has a Lund tune - dang that car rips!! plus the Avalanche Grey matches my Raptor IMG_0447.jpgIMG_0564.jpg
How much Thermo tech did you end up ordering? 60x36 piece? Are you planning on doing Lizard skin or Thermo-tech only?
Thanks Travis (catching up to you slowly)
I ordered 2 of the 60x36 boxes, but I'll probably go with at least 1 (maybe 2) more boxes - I think I'm sticking with just the Thermo-Tec
I may go with an engine bay ZeroClearance type product (from Breeze of course)
I'd only use it in the lower part of the engine bay near the headers - this would give 2 layers of insulation: ZeroClearance - footbox aluminum - Thermo-Tec - carpet
got back home and installed the boyd welding tank!
I have to admit the step-drill bit was awesome to use here! Wish I had a 90-degree drill chuck - would have come in handy here for sure IMG_0614.jpgIMG_0617.jpg
I got creative and used 4 bungee cables to suspend the tank into the space - the tolerances are great for this tank. The front tabs are wider than the 3/4" chassis, but a few extra nuts snugged it up nicely.
IMG_0615.jpg if you don't have a 2nd set of hands, the bungees work great!
all buttoned up - just used the strap bolts and nyloc nuts from the stock tank setup to mount into the chassis, also did the Kleiner Mod so I don't have to get back in there IMG_0618.jpgIMG_0616.jpg
I may try to devise a mini-drop tank setup here - I have about 1.3" under the support V arms, so about 2" of space can be found - it won't give a ton of space, but it's not trivial either
I wish I had seen the way you mounted your tank before I mounted mine. I used the stock straps and had a
heck of a time re bending to match the Boyd shape.
But I do have a question, how you plan to remove the tank with the lower aluminum in place unless you plan for access
holes to reach the cap bolts. You may have a plan if so I would like to know because I might copy your idea.
I never thought of bolting to the front down legs, everybody's mods just slows down my project more.
Thank you for posting your progress.
I wish I had seen the way you mounted your tank before I mounted mine. I used the stock straps and had a heck of a time re bending to match the Boyd shape.
But I do have a question, how you plan to remove the tank with the lower aluminum in place unless you plan for access holes to reach the cap bolts. You may have a plan if so I would like to know because I might copy your idea.
I never thought of bolting to the front down legs, everybody's mods just slows down my project more.
Thank you for posting your progress.
Cecil
good point a probably will add some small access holes for the 5/8ths Allen wrench on top - the front mounts should be easy to access
good point a probably will add some small access holes for the 5/8ths Allen wrench on top - the front mounts should be easy to access
I was thinking the same thing when looking at the pics. No access to those cap bolts once everything's together. Obviously hope to not have to drop the tank. But it could happen. I'd consider just making them permanent, e.g. a tack weld to the frame. Or some other method making access to the top unnecessary. One other suggestion. You may want to just cut off those rear tank strap tabs. Especially the RH side where they protrude into the trunk.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread. Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023. Build 6: Mk5 Roadster 30th Anniversary #11,258. Build Thread.
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Originally Posted by Joe D
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