Check your Blueprint Engine dipstick tube!

I recently had been talking to Blueprint engines because when I initially filled my 347 engine with 7 quarts of break in oil, the level only showed a 1/4" from the bottom of the dipstick. Both times I talked to Blueprint, they explained the engine should have a total capacity of 7 quarts of oil, 6 for the sump and 1 for the filter. After talking to one of the other guys on the forum who had a totally different outcome with the same engine I decided to look into the oil pan. Both of us have the same Canton Racing Products oil pan, 15-610 For Ford 289-302 Front T Sump Street Pan. I decided to give Canton Racing a call this morning because the oil pan description stated 7 quart system and I wanted to verify Blueprint was correct and that it wasn't 7 quarts in the pan and 1 in the filter for a total of 8 quarts.

After talking to the technician there he explained this is a common question they get all the time about oil level not being on the dipstick when the proper oil amount is added. 6 quarts in the sump and 1 in the filter for a total of 7 quarts is the correct amount that should be added to this engine with this oil pan. He explained that they use a common dipstick tube across most of their oil pans and that the tube should be cut to size with a pair of tubing cutters. For example, the oil level is 1-3/8" below the FULL line with 7 quarts of oil added to the engine and prelubed throughout, which means I need to cut 1 3/8" off the top of the dipstick tube.

The reason I'm sending this message out is whoever may have a Canton Racing oil pan with their Blueprint engine, you may want to check the length of the dipstick tube and level with the appropriate amount of oil added for proper setup. The distance from the bottom of the oil pan to the top of my dipstick tube is 24" at the moment while another member's distance was 22" and only his engine only took 6 quarts to reach full. This unnoticed error could be a matter of being a quart low or a quart high based on the length of the dipstick tube.

Thank you for the info, I have been using the bottom of the dip stick as my measure level, I had the same issue with my 427, put in all the oil plus 1/2 quart and still well below the add line. So I re-calibrated my eye, but now I know the rest of the story. Kind of a "lets leave our customers wondering" kind of thing, for a large engine manufacture there are a few details they could do a lot better job at attending to.

Did Blueprint install the Canton pan?

Jeff

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Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner

Did Blueprint install the Canton pan?

Jeff

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Yes Blueprint installed the oil pan as part of their Factory Five Engines package. One would think that this could and should be taken care of before being shipped out especially since they already fill it with oil to dyno the engine.

Ended up finding out also that their oil pan drain plugs are one use only due to them having a copper crush washer for the seal. I mentioned to them that I have a drop of oil leaking out the drain plug every several days of sitting.

Heck, I don't even have a dipstick on my build. My daily driver doesn't, either. I don't remember the last time I checked oil levels in any of my cars. What is there really to glean from checking it periodically? You'll know if you are burning oil or have a blown head gasket through other obvious symptoms, and you likely have an oil pressure gauge to look at (a reasonable indicator that there's still oil in the engine) and if you change your oil with some reasonable frequency, I don't see the need for a dipstick. I think checking the dipstick is an old exercise to make people feel better about their car by simply pulling the dipstick and looking at it, but there's nothing of real value to be inferred from said exercise. Flame on...

Greg

Ended up finding out also that their oil pan drain plugs are one use only due to them having a copper crush washer for the seal. I mentioned to them that I have a drop of oil leaking out the drain plug every several days of sitting.

Not true, I have used copper washers for years and don't have leaking issues

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Originally Posted by Dondero14

Ended up finding out also that their oil pan drain plugs are one use only due to them having a copper crush washer for the seal. I mentioned to them that I have a drop of oil leaking out the drain plug every several days of sitting.

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You can reuse the drain plug just replace the copper crush washer. I never found one from a local jobber that fit. Always had leaks. Buy the pack of 10 that Canton sells.

I get the comment about no dipsticks on a lot of cars these days, but one would think that if there is one it might be somewhat close to accurate, not off by a quart or two. Pretty ridiculous IMO. BP rep told me 6 qts of break-in oil so that's what I ordered with the engine. Documentation that came with the engine said 7 so I ordered another quart. in the end it only took 6. So mine must be off in the other direction. Easy enough to check and adjust accordingly, but really BP, c'mon??

Mark, thanks for sharing this. Lots of folks using BP engines. Good to know that the dipstick can't be relied upon. Pretty important to know that.

Pat

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Originally Posted by cv2065

You can reuse the drain plug just replace the copper crush washer. I never found one from a local jobber that fit. Always had leaks. Buy the pack of 10 that Canton sells.

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Thank you for the correction. I meant to say the crush washer was what was one use only.

So you got a Canton pan with your 347 package ?
Mine didn't and I think my pan is going to be too low.
I may have to contact Blueprint and ask about it.

I got a canton pan too on my BP 347 stroker and noticed this when I filled it that the DS tube was too long. Just noted where it hit on the elongated stick and made a mental note. I guess at some point I can trim it down. Thanks for the length info on cutting it down :) So far have almost 3k on the odometer and everything is rock solid.....knock on wood...

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Originally Posted by TrackDay17

So you got a Canton pan with your 347 package ?
Mine didn't and I think my pan is going to be too low.
I may have to contact Blueprint and ask about it.

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Yes, Canton on mine. But, the crazy thing is even though BP has a completely separate cutsheet and model numbers for the FFR roadster engines, they supply identical model numbers with different pans, apparently randomly. It seems as though there's a major disconnect between the order coding and what actually goes to the floor for build, and identical configuration get built with different pans. I wish you luck speaking with BP. A friend nearby checked in with BP during his 347 engine build for an MK4 to ask about the pan because of the kown issues with incorrect pans being installed. Sure enough, that had the wrong pan on it. So they changed it. He received the engine with an 8" deep pan with the bung off the bottom!!!

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Originally Posted by PMD24

Yes, Canton on mine. But, the crazy thing is even though BP has a completely separate cutsheet and model numbers for the FFR roadster engines, they supply identical model numbers with different pans, apparently randomly. It seems as though there's a major disconnect between the order coding and what actually goes to the floor for build, and identical configuration get built with different pans. I wish you luck speaking with BP. A friend nearby checked in with BP during his 347 engine build for an MK4 to ask about the pan because of the kown issues with incorrect pans being installed. Sure enough, that had the wrong pan on it. So they changed it. He received the engine with an 8" deep pan with the bung off the bottom!!!

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What size pan is it suppose to be. I’m pretty sure mines an 8” pan too, which is probably why it was below the 4” tubes on 1 side by a 1/4”. Is there a spec sheet that explains which one their suppose to be using.

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Originally Posted by Dondero14

What size pan is it suppose to be. I’m pretty sure mines an 8” pan too, which is probably why it was below the 4” tubes on 1 side by a 1/4”. Is there a spec sheet that explains which one their suppose to be using.

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According to the specs on the Canton pan you listed it is 8 inches too, same as what mine measures just not as wide.
JMD got his 302 package from Forte and Forte installed a Champ road race pan on his which measures 7.5 inches according to their website.
If mine hangs below the frame I'm tempted to just get the Champ pan and proper pickup from Forte.
I honestly wish I had went with a Forte package of some sort at this point, lesson learned.

The experts here say 7.5" to stay above the frame. Based on my personal experience with the 8" I agree with that.

Blueprint are just too big. Better off with Forte or Smeding.

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Originally Posted by Mike.Bray

Blueprint are just too big. Better off with Forte or Smeding.

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Maybe it's a Canton oil pan issue. Because I have a BluePrint 302 with the standard (non-Canton) dual/rear sump oil pan and it doesn't hang below the frame rails.

I just went out to the garage to verify with a straight edge and the bottom of the rear sump oil pan drain bolt is flush with the bottom of the frame rails.

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Originally Posted by Mike.Bray

Blueprint are just too big. Better off with Forte or Smeding.

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I agree, not bad but just too big for a more personalized experience.
If I was doing it over again I would've had someone just build me a nice 302 and install stack injection, your engine just looks the business under the hood.

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Originally Posted by Mike.Bray

Blueprint are just too big. Better off with Forte or Smeding.

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Agree 100%. Next build.