Tim's Type 65 Build - Cockpit Wiring Finished?

Well, I suppose it's official. I ordered my kit today with a completion date of 11/27. I was originally going to wait until mid-year next year in the hopes of acquiring a 30th Anniversary version (no that's not announced, just my wishful thinking) but when Dave announced the over-inventory end of year discount + free powder coating to the first 20 orders + guaranteed price increase Jan 1, I decided to pull the trigger. I guess they weren't kidding when they were talking about inventory capacity since my kit will be ready to go 2 months from now. I had also intended to pick my kit up but considering the time of year and no Santa's Sleigh to whisk me there and back I have decided to leave shipment and delivery to the pros.

In the tradition of most of the build threads here is a quick rundown of what I am planning, subject to multiple changes, budget overruns, duplicate parts and the usual project adjustments.

- Type 65 Complete Kit
- Gen 4 Coyote (unless I'm mistaken both single ,Gen4X and dual TB, Gen4 versions are available)
- Up in the air on Control Pack or Terminator X
- T-56
- IRS with Torsen 3.73 center section
- QA1 shocks on all four corners
- EPAS electric steering
- Air Conditioning
- 19" Forged wheels of some kind
- Wilwood brakes front and rear
- Aftermarket seats TBD
- Possible electronic dash or not. On the fence on this one.

I guess these are the basics and subject to some change. There are so many great build threads in this community, both coupe and roadster with a lot of cross pollination available from both. I will of course lean heavily on Paul's build taking many of his proven changes as automatics (Howe Racing, Moog, etc.). I am in no hurry to complete since my kit is essentially arriving 9 months earlier than I was planning and I love the planning, shopping, fitting, building and tinkering as much as the driving.

Anyhow, I have some garage prep to do as well as other to do's prior to kit arrival so will check back in as updates occur.

Congratulations on your Coupe order. You're in for a build adventure and a great result. Nice looking build plan. Lots of it looks familiar. :o Are you planning A/C? My only recommendation would be to think hard about that EPAS plan. You don't have to look hard in the forum to find I'm a huge power steering fan. So I'm all over that. But having had EPAS in the 35 truck build and KRC hydraulic power steering in the Coupe and 20th Anniversary Roadster, I can only suggest the KRC setup is superior. But quite a lot. It's a bolt-on for the Coyote and no chassis mods required like where/how to fit EPAS in the Coupe.

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Originally Posted by edwardb

Congratulations on your Coupe order. You're in for a build adventure and a great result. Nice looking build plan. Lots of it looks familiar. :o Are you planning A/C? My only recommendation would be to think hard about that EPAS plan. You don't have to look hard in the forum to find I'm a huge power steering fan. So I'm all over that. But having had EPAS in the 35 truck build and KRC hydraulic power steering in the Coupe and 20th Anniversary Roadster, I can only suggest the KRC setup is superior. But quite a lot. It's a bolt-on for the Coyote and no chassis mods required like where/how to fit EPAS in the Coupe.

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Thanks Paul, appreciate the feedback. I did order the A/C setup, just forgot to list it. Will correct that when finished typing this. The primary reason I am leaning towards electric steering is to address steering resistance and the adjustability thereof. I didn't recall you installed it in your truck build but will review. This is the type of information this forum is excellent for and since I have a lot of flexibility to adjust I will take a deeper dive on that subject. Your personal experience with multiple builds is invaluable to us new guys.

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Originally Posted by PNWTim

Thanks Paul, appreciate the feedback. I did order the A/C setup, just forgot to list it. Will correct that when finished typing this. The primary reason I am leaning towards electric steering is to address steering resistance and the adjustability thereof. I didn't recall you installed it in your truck build but will review. This is the type of information this forum is excellent for and since I have a lot of flexibility to adjust I will take a deeper dive on that subject. Your personal experience with multiple builds is invaluable to us new guys.

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The KRC pump has changeable flow valves. So you can dial it in the way you like. I have the lowest flow size in mine and for me it's perfect. Listed in the spreadsheet I sent. For a Coyote, it's really a nice setup.

Congratulations on starting your journey!

I picked up my Coupe kit end of May and it's been a blast so far.

Am looking forward to following along with your build thread

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Originally Posted by edwardb

The KRC pump has changeable flow valves. So you can dial it in the way you like. I have the lowest flow size in mine and for me it's perfect. Listed in the spreadsheet I sent. For a Coyote, it's really a nice setup.

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Well, that's good to know. I am going to do a deep dive into this over the next week or so as you bring up really valid points. I believe I have the opportunity to add/subtract to my order over the next couple of weeks.

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Originally Posted by JimStone

Congratulations on starting your journey!

I picked up my Coupe kit end of May and it's been a blast so far.

Am looking forward to following along with your build thread

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Thanks! I really enjoy the documentation of progress with photos and notes so looking forward to morning coffee reading for the group.

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Originally Posted by PNWTim

Well, that's good to know. I am going to do a deep dive into this over the next week or so as you bring up really valid points. I believe I have the opportunity to add/subtract to my order over the next couple of weeks.

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Not to beat a dead horse too much... but here's some hints on this topic. (1) The KRC/Coyote setup (what Factory Five sells for a Coyote) is a commercially available kit. Summit, etc. Don't want to take business away from Factory Five. But sometimes it makes sense to shop around. (2) The power steering rack Factory Five sells has been a little spotty for quality. But the advantage is that it does have the needed extenders built in. They will replace it if not OK (numerous examples here on the forum) but not necessarily fun to take in/out. Some use Fox body Mustang racks from their local parts stores. Remans, but widely available and come with a warranty. I have a Unisteer from Breeze in mine. Which is a rock solid piece. But the Unisteer (MAVAL Industries) rack is no longer available from Breeze. He recommends, but does not sell, BBB Industries N1010106. New (vs. reman), good quality. Available at Rock Auto. My buddy installed one in his Challenge Roadster. Anything you don't buy from Factory Five will need their one inch rack extenders. Note Rock Auto also sells a reman BBB Industries part for less. But personally I'd opt for new if you go that way.

Factory Five lets you make changes to your order right up to where it's about to go into production and final payment is due. Typically a few weeks before your promise date. So you have time. Lots of choices and options along the way. Welcome to the madness.

Congrats on your order! You'll love the car when it's done :)

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Originally Posted by edwardb

Not to beat a dead horse too much... but here's some hints on this topic. (1) The KRC/Coyote setup (what Factory Five sells for a Coyote) is a commercially available kit. Summit, etc. Don't want to take business away from Factory Five. But sometimes it makes sense to shop around. (2) The power steering rack Factory Five sells has been a little spotty for quality. But the advantage is that it does have the needed extenders built in. They will replace it if not OK (numerous examples here on the forum) but not necessarily fun to take in/out. Some use Fox body Mustang racks from their local parts stores. Remans, but widely available and come with a warranty. I have a Unisteer from Breeze in mine. Which is a rock solid piece. But the Unisteer (MAVAL Industries) rack is no longer available from Breeze. He recommends, but does not sell, BBB Industries N1010106. New (vs. reman), good quality. Available at Rock Auto. My buddy installed one in his Challenge Roadster. Anything you don't buy from Factory Five will need their one inch rack extenders. Note Rock Auto also sells a reman BBB Industries part for less. But personally I'd opt for new if you go that way.

Factory Five lets you make changes to your order right up to where it's about to go into production and final payment is due. Typically a few weeks before your promise date. So you have time. Lots of choices and options along the way. Welcome to the madness.

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That horse just jumped up and is still kicking! I had posted a few questions on the forum a couple days before I ordered my kit and one of them was specifically about power steering. Without calling, I am not clear on what comes with the Factory Five power steering kit so I chose to forego it for the time being (also with E steer in my head). Something that is tried and true appeals to me as I prefer not to be the beta tester although I may fall in that category already with the Gen 4 Coyote. I was under the impression the KRC pump was purely aftermarket, not part of what is provided? Personally, I would prefer supporting and purchasing from Factory Five as long as it makes sense. For clarity, when you say "rack extenders" are those to extend the steering shafts or to extend the mounting pads?

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Originally Posted by lewma

Congrats on your order! You'll love the car when it's done :)

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Thanks! Really looking forward to the journey.

Welcome to the Type 65 Family. It's an amazing group of people.

Thanks!

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Originally Posted by PNWTim

That horse just jumped up and is still kicking! I had posted a few questions on the forum a couple days before I ordered my kit and one of them was specifically about power steering. Without calling, I am not clear on what comes with the Factory Five power steering kit so I chose to forego it for the time being (also with E steer in my head). Something that is tried and true appeals to me as I prefer not to be the beta tester although I may fall in that category already with the Gen 4 Coyote. I was under the impression the KRC pump was purely aftermarket, not part of what is provided? Personally, I would prefer supporting and purchasing from Factory Five as long as it makes sense. For clarity, when you say "rack extenders" are those to extend the steering shafts or to extend the mounting pads?

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If you order the power steering from Factory Five for a Coyote, their part number 16473, it includes the PS rack, the KRC 66302125 Coyote setup, and (I think...) the hoses to connect everything. In the past they were selling rubber hoses with crimped on fittings. Many changed those to braided stainless/high pressure PTFE hoses. Maybe they are too now. But I don't know. For both of my Coyote/PS builds, I bought the KRC setup myself, the Breeze Unisteer rack (described previously), and hoses from Breeze. By all means, buy from Factory Five if that's your choice. No worries here. I would just confirm what's included. For power steering for something other than a Coyote, on the Coupe order sheet it lists their part number 16799 and says it doesn't include the pump or mounting bracket. Explains the much lower price.

The rack extenders go on the inner tie rods of the PS rack. Under the rubber boots. The purpose is to get the pivot points for the rack lined up with the control arms on the front suspension. Improves front end geometry and reduces of bump steer. Others with way more knowledge than me can explain it better. But they just need to be there.

So, while I'm in my "waiting to arrive" period, I'm going to spend the next couple of months acquiring parts and tools I am certain to use. I have a fairly well equipped shop/garage but there are a few things I have jotted down as a list and looking for others to add or subtract based on personal experience. Because who doesn't need new tools?

#10 and #30 135 degree drill bits
Pneumatic or electric or manual rivet tool (or all three)
Power Probe III
Rivet spacing tool
Clecos (do I only need 1/8" size or are there others I should have)
30" brake
Ball joint socket - need to know the size of the Howe ball joints

That's about it for now, pretty short list. Open to all comments, recommendations and feedback.

Congrats on your order, and welcome aboard! You're in for a lot of fun (and maybe a few moments of frustration here and there :p). Great choices and options for your build IMHO. I received my Coyote Gen 4X a few weeks ago, and will be going with the Ford ECU pack again. It was a very solid setup on my Coyote Gen 3, and reasonably straight forward to install.

Lots of opinions on what tools you might "need", but I can confirm having some 3/16" clecos on-hand will be helpful. The Power Probe III was recommended to me. I don't regret buying one. Was so helpful in testing my wiring...limits the unintended smoke releases. I used a manual rivet puller on my Cobra build, and will again on my Coupe build. Only issue was on 3/16" stainless rivets--those were a bear! I also bought a 30" brake, but didn't end up using it as much on my Roadster build as I thought I would. Maybe that will change on my Coupe build.

P.S. by your handle I assume you're in the Pacific Northwest? If you don't mind me asking, whereabouts?

Not mandatory, but if you plan on customizing anything, here are some more "advanced" tools I seem to use almost daily:


Wen 12 inch drill press - love it
https://www.amazon.com/WEN-4214T-Var...7490665&sr=8-1


Bauer bench belt/disc sander
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-x...0aAgySEALw_wcB

Harbor Freight 9 inch band saw (although I'd actually buy a bigger one if I did it again) - with replacement higher tooth count blade
https://www.harborfreight.com/power-...saw-60500.html






Forget the pneumatic riveter, just get the Milwaukee M12 electric

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Originally Posted by 460.465USMC

Congrats on your order, and welcome aboard! You're in for a lot of fun (and maybe a few moments of frustration here and there :p). Great choices and options for your build IMHO. I received my Coyote Gen 4X a few weeks ago, and will be going with the Ford ECU pack again. It was a very solid setup on my Coyote Gen 3, and reasonably straight forward to install.

Lots of opinions on what tools you might "need", but I can confirm having some 3/16" clecos on-hand will be helpful. The Power Probe III was recommended to me. I don't regret buying one. Was so helpful in testing my wiring...limits the unintended smoke releases. I used a manual rivet puller on my Cobra build, and will again on my Coupe build. Only issue was on 3/16" stainless rivets--those were a bear! I also bought a 30" brake, but didn't end up using it as much on my Roadster build as I thought I would. Maybe that will change on my Coupe build.

P.S. by your handle I assume you're in the Pacific Northwest? If you don't mind me asking, whereabouts?

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Letting the magic smoke out is never a good thing. I would be interested in which rivet puller you used/are using. I also have a manual rivnut puller which I am planning but may get a larger one. I love my rivnuts! I tried to update my profile today with location, Avatar and signature but apparently I need 20 posts prior to that happening. I am in Damascus, just on the east side of Portland on the way to the mountain. I get up to Spokane every now and then so maybe can connect one of these days. I have read your roadster build thread which is great and looking forward to following along with your coupe thread as well.

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Originally Posted by JimStone

Not mandatory, but if you plan on customizing anything, here are some more "advanced" tools I seem to use almost daily:


Wen 12 inch drill press - love it
https://www.amazon.com/WEN-4214T-Var...7490665&sr=8-1


Bauer bench belt/disc sander
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-in-x...0aAgySEALw_wcB

Harbor Freight 9 inch band saw (although I'd actually buy a bigger one if I did it again) - with replacement higher tooth count blade
https://www.harborfreight.com/power-...saw-60500.html






Forget the pneumatic riveter, just get the Milwaukee M12 electric

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Great call outs! I fortunately have a complete woodshop so I have those you listed with the exception of the Milwaukee riveter, which I will take a look at. Following your build closely as well. FWIW, I recently finished building a 69 Camaro which has an LS3 so it was a hard choice between the GM and Ford options but ultimately I decided to go with the mainstream on this one as it will be all new to me which I like.

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Originally Posted by PNWTim

Great call outs! I fortunately have a complete woodshop so I have those you listed with the exception of the Milwaukee riveter, which I will take a look at. Following your build closely as well. FWIW, I recently finished building a 69 Camaro which has an LS3 so it was a hard choice between the GM and Ford options but ultimately I decided to go with the mainstream on this one as it will be all new to me which I like.

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Nice! You're living my dream in reverse. I've been thinking of doing a classic Camaro after the Coupe. My wife even suggested that, which shocked me because I thought I scared her off with the whole car building hobby

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Originally Posted by JimStone

Nice! You're living my dream in reverse. I've been thinking of doing a classic Camaro after the Coupe. My wife even suggested that, which shocked me because I thought I scared her off with the whole car building hobby

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Better be careful, it's kind of addicting. Just ask Paul aka EdwardB...

I was originally planning on a major road trip next summer to pick my car up, tour the factory, meet everyone and just have a good time. As much as I still would like to do so, my hopes are dwindling after doing some logistical penciling last night. I am currently on the schedule with Todd at Stewart for either a Santa Claus delivery or a Happy New Year delivery. In a fit of "I'm just going to go get it" I sat down to figure out what it would take if I left Black Friday (my completion date is tentatively 11/27). Well, not looking good. First, no co-driver - wife and kids are all working. Second, 6300 mile round trip through what is probably going to be an inclement time of year. Just crossing the Rockies in early December can be a little dicey. And thirdly, almost $1500 to rent an enclosed car hauler.

So with all that in mind, probably sticking with the "hey look, there's a 53' semi parked out front" plan. I am distinctly envious of those who are within a days drive or so, quite the luxury. Like another forum member said recently, I too have never seen a Daytona in the flesh and blood so to speak. Soon enough I suppose.

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Originally Posted by PNWTim

Better be careful, it's kind of addicting. Just ask Paul aka EdwardB...

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Hey! I'm not the only one around here with multiple builds. :rolleyes: But I agree, it is addicting and I admit to having a problem. Isn't that the first step? Approaching my 10th year of retirement (hard to believe) and even though I retired early and was building while still working, I'm especially enjoying having more time now. I'm much happier (and easier to live with...) if I stay busy.

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Originally Posted by PNWTim

I was originally planning on a major road trip next summer to pick my car up, tour the factory, meet everyone and just have a good time. As much as I still would like to do so, my hopes are dwindling after doing some logistical penciling last night. I am currently on the schedule with Todd at Stewart for either a Santa Claus delivery or a Happy New Year delivery. In a fit of "I'm just going to go get it" I sat down to figure out what it would take if I left Black Friday (my completion date is tentatively 11/27). Well, not looking good. First, no co-driver - wife and kids are all working. Second, 6300 mile round trip through what is probably going to be an inclement time of year. Just crossing the Rockies in early December can be a little dicey. And thirdly, almost $1500 to rent an enclosed car hauler.

So with all that in mind, probably sticking with the "hey look, there's a 53' semi parked out front" plan. I am distinctly envious of those who are within a days drive or so, quite the luxury. Like another forum member said recently, I too have never seen a Daytona in the flesh and blood so to speak. Soon enough I suppose.

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I've done both -- self pickup and Stewart. I'm in SE Michigan, so either a very long one day drive or a much easier two day drive to the factory. Plus I have a trailer. But even then, between gas, hotel and food doing overnights, plus there are a bunch of tolls that really add up with a trailer, it's about a wash for cost. Driving from the Pacific NW would be a long haul. Have driven distances like that multiple times, but in this case I agree let Stewart do it. But still get to the factory sometime. It's worth it.

Hi Tim, I live out in the west side burbs of Portland, not a coupe build but a roadster just about ready to put the body on. Feel free to message me if you want to check out the build, it would give you some idea of what you get from F5 and the process. I do have a engine hoist that Is available to borrow when the time comes.

Lance

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Originally Posted by PNWTim

Letting the magic smoke out is never a good thing. I would be interested in which rivet puller you used/are using. I also have a manual rivnut puller which I am planning but may get a larger one. I love my rivnuts! I tried to update my profile today with location, Avatar and signature but apparently I need 20 posts prior to that happening. I am in Damascus, just on the east side of Portland on the way to the mountain. I get up to Spokane every now and then so maybe can connect one of these days. I have read your roadster build thread which is great and looking forward to following along with your coupe thread as well.

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I have the Marson HP-2 manual rivet puller (price is up $10 since I bought it two years ago!): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/afs-39000. I don't have experience with other pullers, but this one works great for me.

I love me some rivnuts as well. Was introduced to them here on the forum. I have the Astro 13" rivnut puller, and bought it as a kit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/APT-1450. Not so great in tight places, so I switch over a wrench-driven tool, like this one from McMaster: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/3781/96349A407.

Happy to connect with you when you're up in Spokane next time. I moved to Deer Park last year, which is about 20 minutes north of Spokane. Don't hesitate to reach out. We don't get too many F5 builders in my neck of the woods, so would be great to meet you.

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Originally Posted by edwardb

Hey! I'm not the only one around here with multiple builds. :rolleyes: But I agree, it is addicting and I admit to having a problem. Isn't that the first step? Approaching my 10th year of retirement (hard to believe) and even though I retired early and was building while still working, I'm especially enjoying having more time now. I'm much happier (and easier to live with...) if I stay busy.



I've done both -- self pickup and Stewart. I'm in SE Michigan, so either a very long one day drive or a much easier two day drive to the factory. Plus I have a trailer. But even then, between gas, hotel and food doing overnights, plus there are a bunch of tolls that really add up with a trailer, it's about a wash for cost. Driving from the Pacific NW would be a long haul. Have driven distances like that multiple times, but in this case I agree let Stewart do it. But still get to the factory sometime. It's worth it.

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I know you are not the only offender by any stretch but pretty certain you lead the pack. Like you, I prefer to be busy, love tinkering and have been looking for another car to build since I finished my Camaro. I have been filling my time restoring a Triumph TR5T and some other yard projects but really looking forward to taking a deep dive on this project.

After doing the math, it's actually quite a bit more cost effective for Stewart to deliver than it is for me to make that cross country trek - in fact, it's not even close. I am assuming my truck pulling an enclosed trailer would get 10 - 12 MPG so just the 400 - 500 gallons of fuel ruled that out. Needless to say, content to wait for the big truck.

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Originally Posted by F500guy

Hi Tim, I live out in the west side burbs of Portland, not a coupe build but a roadster just about ready to put the body on. Feel free to message me if you want to check out the build, it would give you some idea of what you get from F5 and the process. I do have a engine hoist that Is available to borrow when the time comes.

Lance

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I would love to come see your build, almost any time is convenient for me. Appreciate the offer of the hoist but I have one so good to go there. I will coordinate with you via PM here in the next couple of weeks.

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Originally Posted by 460.465USMC

I have the Marson HP-2 manual rivet puller (price is up $10 since I bought it two years ago!): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/afs-39000. I don't have experience with other pullers, but this one works great for me.

I love me some rivnuts as well. Was introduced to them here on the forum. I have the Astro 13" rivnut puller, and bought it as a kit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/APT-1450. Not so great in tight places, so I switch over a wrench-driven tool, like this one from McMaster: https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/130/3781/96349A407.

Happy to connect with you when you're up in Spokane next time. I moved to Deer Park last year, which is about 20 minutes north of Spokane. Don't hesitate to reach out. We don't get too many F5 builders in my neck of the woods, so would be great to meet you.

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Thanks Chris, I will check those out. I know the larger ones can be a bit bulky but the leverage trade off is worth it if you can fit them in there.

Not sure what your experience level is. Here is some feedback. Hope nothing is insulting... I started with a manual rivet puller and quickly went to pneumatic. Combination of volume and difficult for my office hardened grip to pull the larger rivets. Especially since I have the bad habit of thinking some required higher strength steel or SS rivets. Did a build or two with the pneumatic and worked OK. But got tired of dragging the hose around, so sprung for the Milwaukee M12 2550-20 battery powered riveter. Best move I've ever made. I have most of (it seems...) Milwaukee's M12 tools so it was an easy add. Have used it for several car builds, hanging the ceiling in my basement, and now my airplane build. I can't imagine how many thousand rivets it's had through it, but it's been flawless. Highly recommended. If you're really bored (and like watching paint dry) this is me using the Milwaukee on my airplane build: https://youtu.be/RAgTjyHAorI

For pulling nutserts, I've used three different tools. Each has pluses and minuses. For many I've used the very simple wrench driven tools from McMaster. Like this one for #10's. I use a lot of 10-32's. https://www.mcmaster.com/96349A203/. I have a couple other sizes and they do a good job. I have an Astro 1442, the one with the long handles, and it works good. Does take some space plus you do have to be a little careful. With the long handles it's possible to overdo it. For my airplane build, which has hundreds (literally) of nutserts, an Astro ADN14 drill-driven was highly recommended. I find it a little cumbersome to use with a drill. Plus I found it a little difficult to gauge just how much torque to use. I use it quite a bit with a 1/4" ratchet on the input instead of a drill (don't laugh) and get very predictable results. Has been my most common go-to lately.

One other comment FWIW. I saw in another thread a discussion about metric vs. SAE studs for the IRS. Comments were the metric studs are larger (they are slightly) and to ream out the SN95 front hubs and use metric there. Replacing the previous Ford standard 1/2-20 studs. Obviously, do what you want. But keep in mind these builds are 1000 lbs or more lighter than the Mustang where the IRS center section and knuckles/hubs come from. There have been zero reports of any issues with the SAE studs on the IRS option from FF. Including builds that are dedicated track cars. Many builds seem to make a lot out of swapping the studs in the IRS hubs. I found they knock out pretty easily. I pull them in with a stack of lubricated washers, a sacrificial hardened nut (don't use the lug nuts), and a pneumatic impact wrench. Probably the easiest and best approach is with a hydraulic press. I've threatened to buy one more than once but have resisted. If you don't have one, your local machine shop can do it and the cost is apparently quite low. I had occasion to need more when doing my Coupe (cut the kit ones too short while installing spacers. Dumb) and found Dorman 610-290's were exactly the right size and worked perfectly. That size is not only used on Mustangs, but also full size vans, F-150's, etc. I don't think there's a problem with strength. Whatever you do, make all four corners the same. I've seen several suggest just leaving things as is, e.g. SAE in the front and metric in the back. Really not a good idea as many have suggested.

End of random thoughts. Again, good luck with your build.

Thanks Paul. I have virtually zero experience pulling rivets so all advice on that front is welcome. The Milwaukie is not so expensive as to be a prohibitive one use tool so I will definitely consider it. I am a Makita guy but their option in that particular arena is a no go.

I used many, many nutserts on my previous Camaro build so quite familiar with these and really like their utility. I have always pulled them by hand but I like the idea of the smaller, wrench powered tool. The powered options I have never tried but I know what you mean about needing to know how much torque is being applied. There were some larger nutserts that I finished pulling with a nut and bolt arrange and a ratchet. Curious if you can use the clutch on your drill to regulate?

As far as the wheel studs go I think you bring up very valid points. I am investigating simply because I suffer from the "bigger, faster, stronger" car building illness. For me, reaming out the front hubs feels like no more or less work than driving out the rears and reinstalling new studs. Kind of six of one, half dozen of another. Since the kit comes with the requisite components I will probably leave well enough alone.

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Originally Posted by PNWTim

I used many, many nutserts on my previous Camaro build so quite familiar with these and really like their utility. I have always pulled them by hand but I like the idea of the smaller, wrench powered tool. The powered options I have never tried but I know what you mean about needing to know how much torque is being applied. There were some larger nutserts that I finished pulling with a nut and bolt arrange and a ratchet. Curious if you can use the clutch on your drill to regulate?

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Yes, use of the drill clutch for the Astro ADN14 drill-driven is definitely what's recommended. I tried it multiple times and just wasn't comfortable with it. Maybe I didn't give it a long enough try. But I also found holding the tool plus the drill awkward. So gave up. Many use that tool successfully, so don't let my experience be your only data point. My total use was on my airplane build where I was super careful about them being exactly right. For obvious reasons.

While waiting for my kit to arrive I have been kicking around all kinds of ideas and one I keep circling back to is the wheel and tire combo and fitment (filling) of the wheel opening. I had originally decided to go to a 19" wheel which is still an option (albeit expensive) but I am also trying to determine if there is an older school look that will work. Specifically, I took this snip of a car that has a wheel opening filled with wheel and tire. I am guessing these are 15" rims with the associated rubber to work. My question is, are there tire sizes still available that will work with a standard Halibrand type wheel in 17" or are those now unicorns? Sort of looking to retain the large sidewall look with a slightly larger wheel. Ultimate goal is to fill the wheel well with as much rubber as I can squeeze in there. I hope this makes sense.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1733519200

Christmas came 17 days early this year. A couple of photos to commemorate the event:

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...9&d=1733685945

Eric was great!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...0&d=1733685961

And all settled in
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/atta...2&d=1733685988

Started inventory, I think I got through the first 5 or 6 boxes. My POL is really short, I think 4 or 5 odds and ends.

Congratulations Tim, is that all of the boxes that came with the kit? I was just going to post and ask how much space I need to store them. That picture gives me a great reference point. Merry Christmas.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Smiley

Congratulations Tim, is that all of the boxes that came with the kit? I was just going to post and ask how much space I need to store them. That picture gives me a great reference point. Merry Christmas.

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That's all the boxes for my particular build. There are no seats, wheels or brakes which would add significant volume to that pile. And Merry Christmas to you as well!

Congratulations! Let the fun begin!

Congratulations! An exciting day!

Thanks guys. Yes, it was pretty exciting, still surprised when I go in the garage and it's sitting there. Really looking forward to getting started.

Welcome to the family!!