Mechie3's 818S

[Mechie3]

Can I have my own thread too! :D

I might as well start from the beginning.

Bought myself a brand new 2006 WRX a few months out of college. Autocrossed it from 2007 to 2010 and daily drove it until it's demise in 2012. Coming home from work, some lady ran a red light and I t-boned her passenger side. The motor was still running after the impact and I had enough wits about me to turn off the car. Insurance gave me a nice settlement and I bought the car back specifically to build an 818.

The day I brought it back home where it belonged:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-06-07_10-41-17_902.jpg

Took a sawzall to the front bumper beam as the bolts were no longer accessible.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-06-07_22-57-35_167.jpg

FPR still showing pressure after sitting for over 1.5 weeks. Always a good sign.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-06-07_22-56-50_857.jpg

Got the front end cut off:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-06-09_00-26-00_318.jpg

Doors off:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-06-09_20-08-14_507.jpg

At this point someone gave me the idea to just time lapse video the entire thing, so I did.

https://vimeo.com/46070474

[Mechie3]

The scrap metal condensed onto a trailer:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-07-10_22-43-42_107.jpg


After that, working on parts began.


Depowering the steering rack. Took all the lines off, removed the tie rods, took off teh end caps, remove the pinion, pressed the rack out, and depowered it. Depowering (fully, not just looping lines) requires you cut off the piston used for power steering. It's a rather tight fitting seal so it creates a decent amount of drag. Removing it improves feel and reduces the effort required.

Here is the piston:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-10-25_11-55-56_0.jpg

Cutting it off. It has a lip that is roll formed onto the shaft, so cutting it is the only way to remove it.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-10-25_11-58-57_176.jpg

Here is what I cut off. There's the steel piston, a rubber backup o-ring, and then the surface seal:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-10-25_12-56-00_304.jpg

Thoroughly degreased everything, bagged and tapped sensitive components, wire wheeled problem spots, and hit it with some rustoleum.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-10-25_12-59-24_248.jpg

The fixture I made.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-10-26_12-15-55_933.jpg

All parts laid out for reassembly:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-10-26_12-04-02_8.jpg

[Mechie3]

Back together:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-10-26_13-06-39_522.jpg
Cleaned up the lower control arms today.

Halfway:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-10-29_11-52-17_685.jpg

Done:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-10-29_12-44-50_967.jpg

Cleaned up my brakes and the aluminum lateral links today. I daily drove with Hawk DTC-30's (track pads) for over a year so I would never expect to get all of the dust off. These are cleaner than they've been in 3 years. I've since decided to sandblast and powder coat the brakes.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-10-30_12-55-57_738.jpg

Also belt sanded off the sharp edges from the weld and wire wheeled it to even up the appearance. Top is complete, bottom is stock to show the difference.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-10-30_11-58-14_359.jpg

I previously pressed out all the studs so I could easily clean up the hubs. I'd replaced 2 or 3 of the studs over the years from multiple autocross wheel changes. ARP extended studs were $30 for 5 studs. Touge Factory had extended studs for around $28/10. hmmmm.... Stock would certainly have been fine (~$2/stud), so the slightly upgraded TF studs were an acceptable solution and 1/2 the cost of ARP studs. They didn't have the bullet nose quick start though. Put them on the lathe and took care of that. Too bad I don't yet know how to run the CNC lathe. Doing 20 studs by hand was a pain. You can see a stock stud on the far right. The TF studs are 2.5", factory was 1.8". I took .25" off to make the quick start nose, so I still have just under a 1/2 gain in total length. I'll need to coat the ends though so it's not bare steel.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20121102_212250.jpg

Wire wheeled then sand blasted and painted the hubs. Sprayed a cold galvanizing product on the non coated tips of the studs (I machined bullet noses on them) and pressed in the studs today.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-12-04_13-10-02_528.jpg

[Mechie3]

Since I'm powdercoating the brakes, I've been cleaning up the castings. Some of the parting lines weren't flush, other areas looked like they band sawed off excess casting material. The entire casting itself also had a rougher mottled texture to it. These tended to trap dirt and make them impossible to ever get fully clean.

Handful of before and after pics. I still need to fully blast these and finish cleaning them up.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-11-30_11-57-23_38.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-11-30_11-57-13_753.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-11-30_11-58-10_351.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-11-30_11-58-03_628.jpg

Here's a shot of the wheels I picked up. Still not sure if I'm going to leave them black or have them powdercoated gold.

One of the dogs doing quality control:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-11-10_09-54-09_468.jpg

Yeah...that's wide. 9.5" wide to be exact.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2012-11-10_09-50-08_358.jpg

Right side is wire wheeled and coated with Eastwoods version of POR15. Left side is the same plus a gloss black paint sprayed on it.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-01-03_12-08-12_929.jpg

[Mechie3]

A few hundred bucks worth of bearings, seals, and ball joints.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-04_11-54-07_916.jpg

Pressing in a hub:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-04_12-32-24_56.jpg

Fronts complete:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-04_12-55-32_957.jpg

And because I'm such a stylish fellow, I did all the work while wearing a dress shirt, sweater vest, and a tie. :lol:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-04_12-58-04_825.jpg

(ok, so it wasn't all done in a tie, and I was wearing a shop apron too....but that isn't a funny story ;) )

[Mechie3]

Here's the end goal. Someone was nice enough to photoshop this for me (and apparently I wasn't nice enough to remember their name... :o )

http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac177/ehansen007/818/818Rver1.jpg



More to come as it gets done. It's a little slow going. I have until July 20th, and tend to do most of the work in 1 hour increments during my lunch break at work.

[Tom Veale]

Nice work M3, Looks like you'll have your parts bin ready when the chassis and body arrive.

Do a Time Laps video of the assembly, too! I lost track of how many times you got on and off your creeper!

Best regards,

[rjh2pd]

I'm leaning towards that look as well, but without the decals and still debating the white hood. Good work!

[michael everson]

Love those wheels.
Mike

[papajon1000]

Nice job. It looks like it is coming along well.

What are your plans for the engine and turbo?

[AZPete]

Beautiful! Please reply with your address so we can send stuff for polishing and primping.

[longislandwrx]

Those hubs look great! Can you post a list of all the bearings/races/seals you needed and the p/ns? Also let us know who coats your calipers and the charge. I found a place near me that will do 4 for $200, not sure what a fair price is.

Awesome work.

[Mechie3]

What are your plans for the engine and turbo?

It'll be the motor/turbo as it was in the WRX. Stock block, stock heads (they were gasket matched 1" from the inlet a while back), TGV delete, Grimmspeed intake manifold, aeromotive fuel rails (for the bling), AC delete, PS delete (new for 818), PnP throttle body, big aluminum TMIC, silicone/aluminum Y pipe, stock TD04 turbo, silicone turbo inlet, aluminum intake, propsort header (new for 818).


Beautiful! Please reply with your address so we can send stuff for polishing and primping.

The aluminum isn't polished, just cleaned. I let it soak in simple green then wipe it down and used a tooth brush as needed.


Those hubs look great! Can you post a list of all the bearings/races/seals you needed and the p/ns? Also let us know who coats your calipers and the charge. I found a place near me that will do 4 for $200, not sure what a fair price is.

Awesome work.

Calipers: A friend is doing them at a shop he works at. I traded him a front swaybar a few years back in exchange for future services. I finally got a chance to need services. :lol:

Here are the part numbers. The local dealership gives the Subaru club 20% off list, 25% off if you spend over $500, and $28% off if it's your birthday. I compiled a huge list and went in on my bday. haha! Prices listed are the 28% off price I paid.

Front
28015AA070 OIL SEAL 6.36
28015AA080 OIL SEAL 7.70
28316FE000 BEARING F AX 61.02

Rear
28015AA090 OIL SEAL 7.52
28015AA100 OIL SEAL 7.29
28015AA110 OIL SEAL 8.60
7 28016AA030 PT180303 BEA 58.28

Ball joint:
20206AJ000 29.93

Also bought some new bands for the boots on the PS rack:
34128AE010 1.39
34128FE010 3.28

Needed new axle nuts too:
902170049 3.24

These are all parts correct for a 2006 WRX. They might be slightly different for other years, but at least give you a place to start.

[wallace18]

Great Thread. I like all the pictures.

[Etos]

Wow, a non TR WRX. Those are a rarity big time. Sad to see it destroyed from the wreck :( At least it'll become something awesome now instead of rusted out junkyard scrap.

[Mechie3]

That was my thought. I toyed with selling it a few months prior and couldn't do it. My first new car, the car I learned to work on cars with, and way too much emotional history. Now I got to "sell" it without really selling it and get an 818 out of the deal. :D

[Jeff Kleiner]

Nice work on the documentation Craig! Keep it up man, this Subie stuff is all new to me and I'll need all the help I can get :)

Looks like we're thinking along the same lines; an R fitted with a full S type windshield. I don't need operational doors. Waiting to get up close and personal with one to see what can be done to make for a (relatively) quick change from full to short screen.

Carry on!
Jeff

[Mechie3]

I'm actually doing an S, but with R aero bits (price depending FFR or make my own) and color scheme. I already have a dedicated AX car, and the wife will be more likely to want to ride in this if she doesn't need a step stool to get in and out. haha!

[Red Tag]

Nice job. Great thread.

Any thoughts on how to store / palletize all of the parts until the kit comes?

[Mechie3]

Right now I have a few cabinets in the garage and shelves in the basements. My wife is a perfusionist at the hospital and their consumable supplies come in these 3'x18" x 4" thick plastic trays. They throw the trays out so she brings them home. They make excellent disposable storage bins for dirty parts. When the parts are clean, I put them in a new tray and throw out the dirty one. Transmission is on a wheeled cart in the garage. Motor is on an engine stand.


Here's a rear hub I did.

Pressing in the bearing:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-05_11-37-11_984.jpg

Pressing in the hub:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-05_12-23-10_174.jpg

Sandblasted one set of hardware for the E brake. These were all quite rusty. Just going to paint them black to slow down future rusting.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-06_13-01-53_711.jpg

[wleehendrick]

Nice job. Great thread.

Agreed... a road-map for prepping my donor (although I probably won't be as thorough)!


Any thoughts on how to store / palletize all of the parts until the kit comes?

I'd like to know people's thoughts on that, particularly the motor. I'll be getting my parts soon and my delivery is in October. Do you think using a fogging oil in the cylinders and/or storing the motor in a desiccant bag is necessary for that length of time? I'm about a mile from the ocean, which could be a big concern, but luckily my parts will be stored much further inland.

[Mechie3]

(although I probably won't be as thorough)!



Some of the guys at work give me a (friendly) hard time for wanting things to always look nice. My theory has always been I want someone to look at something I made and say "oh, nice! I bet Craig made that!" not "oh....yeah, I bet you Craig probably made that piece of crap".


E brake hardware ready for paint:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-07_12-14-48_168.jpg

Painted:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-07_13-00-01_443.jpg

[Mechie3]

Looks like I got a little too excited. I had to press the rear hub back out to install the ebrake. My bad. Wasn't terrible to undo it, but it's never fun undoing stuff you just did.

Everything all lined up to go.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-08_11-44-49_165.jpg

All done.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-08_12-18-14_487.jpg

What it used to look like. I chiseled off the dust sheild that was spot welded to the back plate.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-08_12-18-36_231.jpg

[metalmaker12]

I was going to call you out on that, but figured you would learn from it,,,lol, plus it was a pic of what you did, so I figured you already did it.

[Mechie3]

haha! It was my first time doing wheel bearings. Luckily I only did 1. I left the other assembled to use as a guide.

[Mechie3]

Forgot I had these pics. This is where a lot of my smaller components are now. The shelves are 5 tier shelves, metal frame, MDF shelves. Supposed to hold 500lbs per shelf? not that I trust it to hold that much. The white trays are the hospital trays that they throw out and my wife brings home.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-07_22-55-54_55.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-07_22-56-03_903.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-07_22-56-16_485.jpg

[Mechie3]

It was warm(er) out today, so I snuck outside for about 30 mins before my wife went looking for me and I sweet talked myself into another 30 minutes.

Started like this:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-10_19-22-48_283.jpg

Got the broken timing belt covers off and got stuck at the cam gears. Both of the passenger side bolts started to strip. Fun times. I'll have to find some 10mm hex stock tomorrow and weld it to the bolt and use an impact. Not a fan of the cap bolt design, but it is what it is. Took the manifold, crosspipe, upipe, 02 sensor, and alternator off. I'll probably end up mounting the alternator off to the driver side so I can center the FPR underneath the Y block.

Here's how I ended. Not as far as I wanted to get but...eh. I've got time.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-10_20-39-56_603.jpg

[Flamshackle]

great updates. I like your work!

[Desertrunner]

Great work,
For those with hydrulic presses you need to watch out because a common fault when installing Subaru bearing is to over press and this results in damage to the cone and the bearing will fail prematurly. My approach to Subaru bearings is to not to press the wheel hub into the bearing while its in the cone as that is how the damage can be done, mainly if you are using a hydrulic press.
Tony

[Mechie3]

great updates. I like your work!

Thanks! :D


Great work,
For those with hydrulic presses you need to watch out because a common fault when installing Subaru bearing is to over press and this results in damage to the cone and the bearing will fail prematurly. My approach to Subaru bearings is to not to press the wheel hub into the bearing while its in the cone as that is how the damage can be done, mainly if you are using a hydrulic press.
Tony

Hopefully I didn't do it wrong. It did press in quite easily and smoothly. I don't think the gauge registered much pressure at all in the cylinder. Once it bottomed out I let it be and didn't try to give it an extra push.

[metalmaker12]

Mechie, It is true you can damage the bearings cone this way. However, do the hubs spin and have no odd sounds, are they seated all the way in, if so you should be ok. Most of the time, if you screw it up, you will know right away. I think you will be ok, looking good, I meant your parts btw lol. I will post my facebook pic in my thread if anyone cares. Next time just push the hub in and support the spindle, or say whatever and do it the way you did. I have done both like a lot, so either has worked, I did mess one up awhile back in my learning years, which are still going on daily btw.

[Mechie3]

They spin smoothly with no noises.

[metalmaker12]

ah go with it, 9 out of 10 your good

[Mechie3]

Finally got the cam bolts out. Had to weld nuts onto them. Not the prettiest weld, but when I did pretty welds my impact was able to rip the nut off the bolt. Pulled the cam gears and the broken timing belt cover before my wife went looking for me. haha.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-18_20-34-13_204.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-18_20-33-28_101.jpg

[Samiam1017]

Mechie. What are your braking the motor down for? Or you just planning to do a nice write up on how to reassemble a motor from a short block for us dummy's (hint hint).

[longislandwrx]

IIRC his car took a hit to the front passenger side and it broke the timing cover, you need to pull the cam gears to replace the rear cover.

[Mechie3]

^^ Ding ding! Need to replace the timing cover. Thankfully I already had most of the parts I needed in the basement.

The FSM is the best for reassembly from a shortblock. It has good instructions and diagrams.

[Xusia]

Hey Mechie3, didn't have a running list somewhere of parts you've sold and prices obtained? If so, where is that? It doesn't seem to be in this thread...

[Mechie3]

I think it's called "Sell of finances" something or other. Bstuke started a thread recently, and I linked to it in that thread.

[Mechie3]

Wife is in Peru, so I got some guilt free garage time in. Monday was pretty good, Tuesday I ran out of propane for my heater 5 minutes into it. I managed 2 hours, but it was cold and snowing outside and my garage wasn't much better.

Got some random bits taken off, started designing a bracket to relocate my alternator, marked the engine harness and pulled it out.

Engine harness. Should be able to remove quite a few wires (cut off connectors years ago, never removed the wires).
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-03-05_21-57-48_235.jpg

Figuring out how I want to run my fuel lines this time. Thinking of a custom turbo inlet so I can use a 90deg fitting on the front of the passenger fuel rail and make both sides look identical.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-03-05_21-58-33_668.jpg

Paper bracket test fit. Not bad. I used a piece of paper, punched holes, and did a bunch of measurements, averaged the two results. One hole was off by .050 and I needed to trim a radius. Second test tonight, then test piece on Thursday on the CNC.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-03-05_22-23-30_183.jpg

[Nuul]

Tuesday I ran out of propane for my heater 5 minutes into it.

I feel that the hours it spent trying to keep my fat *** warm might be to blame. Sorry about that :D

[Mechie3]

I feel that the hours it spent trying to keep my fat *** warm might be to blame. Sorry about that :D

It was keeping me warm too Sunday!

and Monday

and some week before that
and some time before that
and the steaks I made
and the fish I grilled
and the shrimp and...


:D

I've had that tank since mid summer last year? I don't remember. I'm not worried about it. It was more of a "oh...uh...well, this might get cold". HA!

[Mechie3]

So, I may have lied. I didn't do another paper test fit. Decided to jump right in with an aluminum piece. We have so much of this anodized aluminum sitting around that I could make parts all day and still have stuff left over. I programmed it wrong on the slide portion, so the end ended up being an open tuning fork. It's supposed to be a 1/2 depth cut so another piece can key into it and slide back/forth so I can perfect the location of that second piece. Once that's done, it'll still key in, but the bolts will have through holes, not slots, not mate with. The three bolts holes lined up perfectly (one not shown, forgot it at work).

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-03-06_18-47-47_930.jpg

[Nuul]

Looks good for a prototype. What other custom pieces are you considering making?

[Mechie3]

Billet heads. ;)

Not really. Things I have planned/ideas for:
Titanium shift knob
Titanium alternator pulley (like an idiot, I dropped my alternator and bent the steel pulley)
Aluminum radiator mounts (stock ones damaged in wreck)
CNC my logo/"team" name on the trans block off plate
Mount for the Y block and FPR on the front of the manifold
Mount to put the coolant header tank on the 818 frame (similar to the mount I did for my WRX putting the header tank on the strut tower)
Mount for a Subaru S202 wing blade

Other stuff as I get ideas.

[JAubin]

Looks good! Always feels nice when everything lines up... makes me think if someone had a CAD model, or at least the major mounting points it would be really nice for designing some of the accessory brackets. Who has a stripped down longblock and a 3d scanner? Heh.

[Mechie3]

I have a few CAD models on www.3dcontentcentral.com. They're all free for download. Not all will be useful, but they include:

-8AN and -6AN fuel fittings
Aeromotive FPR
Subaru Ball Joint
Plastic coolant header tank
Fuel Y block

I could make a model of the 3 mounting points and put that on there too.

[longislandwrx]

I have a few CAD models on www.3dcontentcentral.com. They're all free for download. Not all will be useful, but they include:

-8AN and -6AN fuel fittings
Aeromotive FPR
Subaru Ball Joint
Plastic coolant header tank
Fuel Y block

I could make a model of the 3 mounting points and put that on there too.



nice... I see your fittings bit not the Subaru parts.



http://www.3dcontentcentral.com/Contributors.aspx?id=224424

[Mechie3]

nice... I see your fittings bit not the Subaru parts.



http://www.3dcontentcentral.com/Contributors.aspx?id=224424

On the left, above the CAD models, it says in bold "Contributions". Go to the right, and in small letters it says "view all contributions". Then, go to page 2 of the models I've made.

Alternatively, if you search "subaru" all three models that show up in the entire database are mine. :D

http://www.3dcontentcentral.com/contributor/Gallery.aspx?id=224424&ContentType=Model

I'll typically upload OEM stuff I've modeled, but not things I design myself. It's nice when you can find off the shelf parts modeled by someone else, but I'm not going to give away the particulars of my specific designs (with some exceptions, like the cam seal install tool).

[Mechie3]

Time for some bad cell phone shots.

Made another part of the mount yesterday. Didn't get to do much though because of volleyball. This piece goes between the mounting ears of the alternator then will bolt to that plate I cnc'd. A third piece will hold up the other side eventually.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-03-08_08-10-01_651.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-03-08_08-10-22_741.jpg

[Mechie3]

Didn't get much done Friday or Saturday. Friday I spend machining parts for an F500. Saturday I spent most of my time at the Indycar Factory for Indy Cars and Coffee. I did make some spacers, buy some bolts, and make a plate to bolt the two halves of the mount together. From here I can take measurements for the final part I need and made adjustments to the first two parts for the final design. It's self supporting enough to take a picture now without holding onto it.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-03-09_19-49-28_76.jpg

[wallace18]

Nice fab work.

[metalmaker12]

When you selling them lol, cool idea

[Mechie3]

I could sell some when I have the final design. I borrowed the main idea from Carl Davey (think that's his name). He had a similar design a few years back but don't think he's made any in recent years.

[Mechie3]

Made the adjuster today and ordered some rod ends and a left hand tap. One side will have a right hand thread, the other side a left, so it works like a turnbuckle to tension the belt. Ends are tapered for looks, knurling to hand tighten it quickly, then flats for a 19mm wrench in the middle for final tightening.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-03-11_18-31-09_80.jpg

[longislandwrx]

very cool, round the edges of that tuning fork though.. or install a bucket underneath... free blood donation.

[Mechie3]

The tuning fork is a mistake. lol. I haven't changed it because I'm going to mock up the entire thing, then make changes to the CAD model, then remachine a new setup.

[JeromeS13]

I'm definitely in line if you decide to make more and sell them.

[Mechie3]

Aluminum bit might have ended up a little long (I did make it .125" over the length I designed it just in case, I can always go smaller) but it works. Just want the alternator as low as possible for fuel rail routing but currently have no where to put the lock nuts. Overall, it works beautifully. Center distance from crank pulley to alternator pulley is adjustable from 8" to 9", give or take. Raising it is as easy as spinning the center. Need to cut down some bolts to fit perfectly. They don't make shoulder bolts with an M10x1.25 thread so I bought some extra long bolts so that they had an unthreaded section to ride in the rod end. For the end that attaches to the alternator I either need to make a sleeve, or turn down a bolt and put an M8 thread (I think) on the end.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-03-12_22-03-22_678.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-03-12_22-04-15_142.jpg

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-03-12_22-03-37_759.jpg

[papajon1000]

Awesome work

[longislandwrx]

I see in your future.... a new alternator pulley.

[Mechie3]

Yup. Going to make one out of titanium or aluminum. Like an idiot, I thought it would sit on the motor for 10 seconds while I grabbed a wrench and it fell off a few weeks ago, landed pulley side down. The best part? It didn't cut through the epoxy on the floor. :D

[Mechie3]

Haven't updated this in 3 months since I've been busy with other projects. Designed a mount to put my y block and FPR both on the center of the intake manifold. The alternator was moved to the driver side to make room. Now both the feed and return lines will be equal left to right. You can see it, but there are two bolts that go into the bottom of the back side of the FPR as well as the ring mount. These previously stripped out, thus the reason for reinforcing the mounting with the ring.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/FPRmount.png (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/FPRmount.png.html)

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130621_082254_998.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130621_082254_998.jpg.html)

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130621_082302_399.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130621_082302_399.jpg.html)

[RelfF2]

Nice! i'll be following your build closely. nice to know there will be at least a few 818's in the Indy area to maybe check out someday. Keep up the good work.

PS, props on rocking the IMS flag in the garage. :)

18601

[Mitch Wright]

Nice work

[Xusia]

FPS=...? Fuel Pressure Regulator??

[Mechie3]

Nice! i'll be following your build closely. nice to know there will be at least a few 818's in the Indy area to maybe check out someday. Keep up the good work.

PS, props on rocking the IMS flag in the garage. :)


I have 4 indy flags currently: 2009-2011 cententiall era, 2012, and 2013 race flags plus the IMS flag. One flag to cover each time I've been to the race since I moved here in 2009. I didn't know you were in Indy. There's another fellow (wildolive IIRC) on the North side with a early early July delivery.


FPS=...? Fuel Pressure Regulator??

errr.... The only FPS I see on this page is yours. :confused: It wouldn't be beyond me to mispell something dumb like that though. It is indeed a fuel pressure regulator (blac/red) and a Y block (blue). The top will feed the back side of the fuel rails, the return is through theh front of the rails.

[Mechie3]

Found a replacement pulley on NASIOC for the steel one I dented. It's a little bit lighter (whoopty doo!, lol) and the circumference is 25% longer, so it spins 25% slower. Hopefully it's not an issue. It was only $27 shipped used, so I couldn't argue with that. Faster than making my own and cheaper than buying a used steel one.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130626_170518_366.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130626_170518_366.jpg.html)


http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130626_170532_093.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130626_170532_093.jpg.html)

[Mechie3]

Made some more parts.

Long, windy, plastic oil filler tube? Aint nobody got time fo dat! Made an aluminum one. Need to make a cap too. It's smaller, doesn't wind all about, and I flipped the male/female threads around since it would be easier to make this way.

New compared to stock:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130703_180027_429.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130703_180027_429.jpg.html)

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130703_175752_858.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130703_175752_858.jpg.html)

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130703_175710_340.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130703_175710_340.jpg.html)

[wleehendrick]

Nice... do you plan to make more?
19412

[Mechie3]

I did made one extra, though the threads might be messed up. I make these at work and making parts for profit on their machines is a bit of a no no. Though, sometimes I make parts for myself that I don't end up needing. ;)

[AZPete]

In a perfect world Mechie3 would live next door to me!

[wleehendrick]

I did made one extra, though the threads might be messed up. I make these at work and making parts for profit on their machines is a bit of a no no. Though, sometimes I make parts for myself that I don't end up needing. ;)

Do you have a solid model you wouldn't mind sharing? I could get that made locally.

[Mechie3]

Do you have a solid model you wouldn't mind sharing? I could get that made locally.

I might. Let me get it quoted at a few shops I work with. If it's at all worth me having a batch made I'll do it that way. If there's no profit to be had using a third party shop I'll share the file. I'd have to sign up to be a vendor at that point too.

[wleehendrick]

I might. Let me get it quoted at a few shops I work with. If it's at all worth me having a batch made I'll do it that way. If there's no profit to be had using a third party shop I'll share the file. I'd have to sign up to be a vendor at that point too.

Awesome... if the fab costs are reasonable, I think you could do well selling some of your designs to the community!

[Mechie3]

In a perfect world Mechie3 would live next door to me!

They are still building in my neighborhood. ;)

[Mechie3]

It's mostly done. Still need to put my 818 logo on the top and chamfer the bottom of the cap so it doesn't look so square. Not sure I'm 100% satisfied. It works, but it's a little tight. Might need to change the ID some more, but I might change from a radial seal to an axial seal. An axial seal would have no resistance until it sealed. The radial seal has drag from the momen it engages until you stop tightening.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130705_175632_537.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130705_175632_537.jpg.html)

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130705_175617_927.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130705_175617_927.jpg.html)

[metalmaker12]

Nice work man, so when you shipping mine??

[Mechie3]

I redesigned it last night, so I'll prototype that one this week. I'm having a local shop quote it for me to see if it's worth trying to make or just give away the drawings to others. I can't really make parts for profit at work.

Started on the engine wiring harness. Removed all the wires for the PS pump, air pump and valves, and the evap solenoid. Extended three wires so that all of the engine to main harness connectors are together on one side. In the stock config, two large connectors are on the driver side, and two medium ones on the passenger side. They're all on the driver side now. I ran out of tape, and have to leave for a get together, but I started to bundle an rewrap it. Most connectors and wires will be hidden.

Got the rear timing belt covers and timing belt on, but on the front middle cover. The dealership gave me the wrong bolts for the front side covers, so I'll have to source some other ones.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130706_142942_381.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130706_142942_381.jpg.html)

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130706_142952_697.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130706_142952_697.jpg.html)

[JeromeS13]

Started on the engine wiring harness. Removed all the wires for the PS pump, air pump and valves, and the evap solenoid.

What are you doing about the atmospheric pressure sensor that is built into the driver side secondary air pump valve? Is there a way to change the offset of the MAP sensor to factor in atmospheric pressure?

[Mechie3]

What are you doing about the atmospheric pressure sensor that is built into the driver side secondary air pump valve? Is there a way to change the offset of the MAP sensor to factor in atmospheric pressure?

It only affects the 07, not the 06 WRX. I ditched the airpump back in 2007 when the WRX was my daily driver. Never had issues. It wasn't until the 07 came along that people started having problems when they deleted everything. Haven't had the pump or valves since.

[JeromeS13]

Awesome! Makes me really glad that I have an '06 donor. Thanks!

[Mechie3]

The service manual still shows an air sensor in the one valve but its just a backup or something. There's a large thread on nasioc about it and consensus was 06 doesn't matter, 07 you can cut the sensor off the rest of the valve and ditch everything but the sensor.

[07FIREBLADE]

Where are you guys finding the service manuals for these cars....

[JeromeS13]

The service manual still shows an air sensor in the one valve but its just a backup or something. There's a large thread on nasioc about it and consensus was 06 doesn't matter, 07 you can cut the sensor off the rest of the valve and ditch everything but the sensor.

Good deal. That's one more piece of useless crap that I can get rid of.


Where are you guys finding the service manuals for these cars....

I think I got mine from Ebay? Mine is just a series of .pdf files. But, it comes in handy if you know where/how to look and use it.

[Samiam1017]

http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals

[07FIREBLADE]

Ok just wondering. Ive seen the ken gilbert site. Just wondering if there was another source out there.

[Silvertop]

Ok just wondering. Ive seen the ken gilbert site. Just wondering if there was another source out there.

How many sources do you need? I downloaded the entire service manual for my '04 donor from that site. For free. The fact that each chapter is in an individual pdf IS kind of a nuisance, though. You'll need to set a little time aside if you want to print the thing. But the price is certainly right.

[07FIREBLADE]

I was just wondering if there was anything else out there. Computer doesn't like me and wont let me save the pdf file for the 02. Oh well, i was able to download and save the 06 manual for my dd wrx. Current donor is the 02. I was looking for a dvd copy if there was one available thats all. I hope this answers your question. The price is perfect and the only other thing we need now is the actual assembly manual.

[wallace18]

I was just wondering if there was anything else out there. Computer doesn't like me and wont let me save the pdf file for the 02. Oh well, i was able to download and save the 06 manual for my dd wrx. Current donor is the 02. I was looking for a dvd copy if there was one available thats all. I hope this answers your question. The price is perfect and the only other thing we need now is the actual assembly manual. I got a cd from ebay for my 2002wrx for $5.00. It was a complete copy of the factory manual.

[Mechie3]

Made prototype #2. I like it much better. It's shorter, but with a bigger diameter cap. The o-ring compresses axially now so there's little resistance until the o-ring bottoms out. The black part is plastic since it's just a test piece (didn't even finish the flange). I learned how to program and cut threads on the CNC, so that eliminates another issue I had with the threads not always starting straight.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130710_174201_814.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130710_174201_814.jpg.html)

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130710_174126_415.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130710_174126_415.jpg.html)

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130710_174058_193.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130710_174058_193.jpg.html)

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130710_181851_393.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130710_181851_393.jpg.html)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

good work Craig, looks great

[longislandwrx]

I'm looking for something similar but it needs to accept an OEM cap so I can use the AOS.

I don't suppose you want to start over? :)

[Mechie3]

Nope. Lol. I don't have a tap big enough (M42 IIRC) which is why I went to the smaller M24. Don't have internal threading tools either for the CNC or manual lathe.

[Mechie3]

Made the bottom portion in aluminum today. Fine tuned some of the process. It goes on much smoother and make a nice seal. I'm considering doing a short run of these as there's been some interest in them.

Rev 2 on left, rev 1 on right.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130711_182011_298.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130711_182011_298.jpg.html)

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130711_182308_061.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130711_182308_061.jpg.html)

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130711_182323_600.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130711_182323_600.jpg.html)

[07FIREBLADE]

How much?

[JeromeS13]

Count me in. Did you ever finalize your alternator mount as well?

[Bkafe]

Made the bottom portion in aluminum today. Fine tuned some of the process. It goes on much smoother and make a nice seal. I'm considering doing a short run of these as there's been some interest in them.

Rev 2 on left, rev 1 on right.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130711_182011_298.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130711_182011_298.jpg.html)

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130711_182308_061.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130711_182308_061.jpg.html)

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130711_182323_600.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130711_182323_600.jpg.html)

Count me in as well..

[Zodiac]

same here :cool:

[metalmaker12]

Let me in on that

[Mechie3]

How much?

I know of someone else who makes them for $80, so definitely not over $80. I'll have to add up times and material costs to see what makes it worth it. It would come with the stainless steel cap screws too. I think all WRX are the same, but regular impreza are slightly different. I'll have to contact FFR too to see about milling an 818 logo on the top of the cap. Not sure if it's copyrighted or trademarked and don't want to infringe on them even if it isn't legally protected but they don't want me to.


Count me in. Did you ever finalize your alternator mount as well?

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YD8Na5Mv4oY/USZJ0T5RKQI/AAAAAAAADnU/5U871_OaqRE/s320/Ain-t-Nobody-Got-Time-Fo-Dat-sweet-brown-31241125-480-330.jpg

lol. Not yet. It's one of those things where it's close enough to being done that I temporarily lost interest. By that I mean my wife keeps asking me when I'm going to finish the patio. ;)

[metalmaker12]

I hear ya on time, put it this way, you make me two and I will make you a custom dp/ exhaust even trade if not to elaborate.

[Mechie3]

We could work that out. :D I know what I want it to look like, not sure if it'll fit with the trans. I'll have to see.

[flynntuna]

That is a very nice piece, it seems to solve the problem of adding oil to the engine. On that note, is the stock fill tube reversible so that it faces the rear?

[07FIREBLADE]

I was gonna ask if you could do the 818 on the cap. Glad you had it in mind. Hope you can....

[Mechie3]

That is a very nice piece, it seems to solve the problem of adding oil to the engine. On that note, is the stock fill tube reversible so that it faces the rear?

I can check tomorrow if I remember. You'd have to use a funnel with this. The hole is about the same size as the stock tube, but there's no large cup on the top to prevent overflow.

[THE ITALIAN]

That is a fine machine job. & good idea, Let me know

[mekohler]

I am interested as well, 818 on it would be a big +
Great work

[Mechie3]

On that note, is the stock fill tube reversible so that it faces the rear?

Checked this morning. You can reverse it so it faces the rear, but it also makes it face horizontal as well. Probably not what you're looking for. lol.

[wleehendrick]

so definitely not over $80. I'll have to add up times and material costs to see what makes it worth it. It would come with the stainless steel cap screws too. I think all WRX are the same, but regular impreza are slightly different. I'll have to contact FFR too to see about milling an 818 logo on the top of the cap. Not sure if it's copyrighted or trademarked and don't want to infringe on them even if it isn't legally protected but they don't want me to.

For under $100 with a logo, I'm all over it! However, one thing to consider... factory caps have plastic touch surface for a reason. I can see someone branding an 818 logo into their hand by grabbing a hot Aluminum cap!

[Mechie3]

I used a metal cap on my plastic filler tube for years, and it did get uncomfortably warm. I'm sure with a metal/metal/metal contact it'll get rather hot. Nothing a rag over your hand can't fix if you don't want to be in the 818 club permanently. haha. I could make the tops from Titanium, but I'd have to buy a special tap that would likely cost me $500. Plastic could be done too, but that isn't much fun. ;)

[Mechie3]

Time to machine the cap: 10 mins
Time to machine the logo: 12 mins

Ha!

Certainly looks pretty nifty though. :)

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130712_174356_771.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130712_174356_771.jpg.html)

[Frank818]

Wow that's nice!

[flynntuna]

You guys sure know how to spend my money. LOL My budget is growing exponentially.

[wleehendrick]

A little lacquer in the milled areas and it's perfect!

[Mechie3]

A little lacquer in the milled areas and it's perfect!

Great minds think alike. ;)

[07FIREBLADE]

Who do I make the check out to this time

[longislandwrx]

what about a Delrin cap? Delrin is super cheap and your tools should have no problem cutting it.

A block big enough to do several caps is like $10 on ebay.

[THE ITALIAN]

I'm looking for something similar but it needs to accept an OEM cap so I can use the AOS.

I don't suppose you want to start over? :)
Cannot this AOS be done somewhere else? I know it is important just for detonation, not to mention having a clean induction system, but MORE tubes on the top is just messy.
I use a clear tube on my roadster so I can see what comes up, but I don't have a turbo or intercooler. A catch-can is just another item to clutter the engine bay. OR perhaps a dry sump $ystem !

[Mechie3]

He probably has the grimmspeed AOS which screws into the stock oil fill tube for easy installation and a somewhat clean look.

[longislandwrx]

He probably has the grimmspeed AOS which screws into the stock oil fill tube for easy installation and a somewhat clean look.

You know it.


Cannot this AOS be done somewhere else? I know it is important just for detonation, not to mention having a clean induction system, but MORE tubes on the top is just messy.
I use a clear tube on my roadster so I can see what comes up, but I don't have a turbo or intercooler. A catch-can is just another item to clutter the engine bay. OR perhaps a dry sump $ystem !

I will take pictures of my setup when its finished. Everything is tucked, and far from cluttered. You would be hard pressed to tell I had an AOS if you didn't see the cap.

The beauty of the GSAOS is that it is maintenance free. No cans to drain/hoses to unscrew.

[Xusia]

I'm in for a cap too. :)

[bbjones121]

In for cap also.

[Mechie3]

Called Stewart since I didn't get a call yesterday. Their truck broke down in Louisville and won't be fixed until today. My kit should be picked up Monday and then delivered Thursday. Actually works out for the best. I was going to have to have a friend be at my house for delivery, and now I can be there myself!

Made some ABS sensor delete plugs. Just an aluminum tab with a delrin plug to fill the hole left by removing the ABS sensor. I'll probably add some silicone to it too, though the OEM was just a little press fit plastic plug.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130726_115153_447.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130726_115153_447.jpg.html)

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130726_115129_893.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130726_115129_893.jpg.html)

[RM1SepEx]

you abs plugs are fancier than mine... I just cut them from .050 aluminum on my throatless sheer by hand. I painted over them after with the eastwood chassis paint to blend in w the backing plate, and the upright/bearing carrier in the front

[Xusia]

Just because I'm curious, why does the hole need to be plugged?

[Mechie3]

For the rears, it leaves a .7" hole for debris to get inside the ebrake mechanism. On the fronts it allows dirt in between the outer bearing seal and the axle. I doubt it needs to be super water tight but not so.etching I'd want decent sized stones and dirt getting in.

[GUNS]

Mechie, are you going to sell those? They look great!

[Mechie3]

Mechie, are you going to sell those? They look great!

I plan to offer them. Still reading up on all the requirements to finalize my LLC so I can be legitimate. I did get written permission from FFR to use "818" on machined parts. :D

[Mechie3]

Kit....is on the truck.

http://i1.ytimg.com/vi/6YMPAH67f4o/hqdefault.jpg

[longislandwrx]

:cool:

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Great news Craig, I'm 13 days and counting.
Want to trade.
Bob

[Mechie3]

No. :p

lol. It's been long enough as is!

[RM1SepEx]

I pick mine up Thursday AM in Wareham...

[Mechie3]

After a weekend of racing (and winning ;) ) I had a night to progress on some engine stuff. Finished wrapping the engine harness, cut some silicone hose to route part of the PCV system under the turbo inlet. I always hated how the OEM hose made a giant bent loop over the top of the turbo looking messy. To go along with that, I altered some of the metal hoses.

No picture of the stock PCV metal tube, but the one fitting use to angle upwards. I cut it off, cut the bend out, and welded it back together. I'm a newb to welding, and it was my first time doing relatively thin wall tubing, so when I was done making a mess, I ground it down so metalmaker wouldn't know what a hack I am. Don't say anything, ok? ;)

Also took the metal coolant hose and cut off one of the nipples. This line used to feed the coolant port on the throttle body. I disconnected that years ago and ran a short tube from the steel lines to the aluminum return. Figured I could weld up the nipples and eliminate another hose.

Coolant nipple before hand:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130730_212648_699.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130730_212648_699.jpg.html)

Both hoses after welding and grinding.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130730_224657_234.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130730_224657_234.jpg.html)

[longislandwrx]

Are you planning on capping the return or welding that too? I've always wanted to do this and ditch the hose loop.

[Wayne Presley]

I trimmed up my coolant tubes and welded up the ones for the heater.

[Mechie3]

Are you planning on capping the return or welding that too? I've always wanted to do this and ditch the hose loop.

My TIG can go aluminum....I'm the one that can't. :o I have a friend that will teach me so I can weld that up.


I trimmed up my coolant tubes and welded up the ones for the heater.

That might not be a good idea. I only have second hand info, but according to others doing that limits flow to certain areas of the driver side head and can cause engine failures. I plan to loop the two lines together. On my 06 motor, the lines exit the back of the motor right next to each other. Prior year motors have one line near the driver head and the other near the center of the block.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=29387639&postcount=7

Look at the bottom middle. Coolant flows from the water pump to the LH cylinder jacket, to the LH head, to the LH cylinder block. After that, the exit goes to the heater core and the radiator. The flow path to the radiator is shared with outward flow from the RH cylinder block (inside the aluminum crossover). Pressure out of the RH block can prevent flow out of the LH block. If it can't release pressure to the heater core lines, it might stagnant some causing localized heating.

http://i45.tinypic.com/2sac8k2.jpg

[Mechie3]

I apologize ahead of time for the blurry pics. My cell phone camera cover is cracked and as dirt works its way in it slowly gets worse.

Finished my engine wiring harness and fuel rails/lines last night. Before someone asks: No, fuel rails are not needed, yes they are overkill, yes...I do think they look pretty nifty. :lol:

Equal length feed and return lines:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130731_221152_738.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130731_221152_738.jpg.html)

All of the wiring harness connectors are now on the driver side at the back of the motor.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130731_221224_053.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130731_221224_053.jpg.html)

I ditched the plastic channels for the wiring harness as they were bigger than the harness itself. I used rubber coated P-clamps to mount the harness under the manifold with the P point up so that it tucks up and under the manifold. All of the injector, cam sensor, and AVCS wires are routed underneath the fuel rails too so you only see the wiring harness from the back of the motor and the corners.

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130731_221318_707.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130731_221318_707.jpg.html)

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130731_221357_778.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130731_221357_778.jpg.html)

Here's a little jig I made to cut down my oil dip stick. I have a spare so if it ends up not working, nothing is lost except some time. With the oil fill tube moved and the alternator being so short, the dip stick sticks out like a sore thumb. With this fixture, I can accurately machine away a precise distance from the tube, then weld the flared end back on. Knowing how far I machined it, I can trim the actual dip stick the same distance and make a custom top for it so I don't screw up my oil readings. The final test will be measuring the stick protrusion from the tube. If the modified and stock one match.....it's good to go!

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130731_130255_099.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130731_130255_099.jpg.html)

[wallace18]

Nice fab work. It should be a show car when your done.

[Samiam1017]

Mechie. Did you make that drivers avcs line or was that a premade line? -4? And what's the clearance on the line to the front of the head. Does a banjo need to be used there or would a "90" adaptor fit?

[Mechie3]

Its a factory line that I painted. Its best for that IMO since a soft line could potentially vibrate and rub holes in the timing cover.

[metros]

Very tidy!

[Mechie3]

Oh Hello!
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/Hello.png (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/Hello.png.html)

First part off the truck!
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/FirstPart.png (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/FirstPart.png.html)

Hanging by a thread!
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/Crane.png (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/Crane.png.html)

Vroom Vroom!
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/vroom.png (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/vroom.png.html)

YES I'M SHOUTING WITH EXCLAMATION POINTS AFTER EACH CAPTION!!! :LOL:

Chassis #15. Chassis number is assigned at pickup, probably why it's not 10 or something as it sat there for 2 weeks. 15 is a nice round number though. Too bad I have to go to work now.

[blueoval_bowtie_guy]

Congratulations! Have a great time with your build and take lots of pictures.

[JAubin]

Congrats! Good luck trying to focus on work today!

[Mechie3]

Congratulations! Have a great time with your build and take lots of pictures.

My Go Pro took 4k pictures of the entire thing today. :lol:


Congrats! Good luck trying to focus on work today!

Focus? Work? What?

[gwader]

Ah yeah!

[Mechie3]

They're back! 818 Time lapse videos. I made the mistake of trying out 1sec photo intervals. Bad idea. I previous used 10sec which resulted in 1000 photos to make a video. I had 1,400 pictures to compile which took forever and then Vimeo said "sorry, your video is too big. So, for your youtube viewing pleasure... Day 1. Not terribly exciting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6KU3lBhjaT0

[Bob_n_Cincy]

They're back! 818 Time lapse videos. I made the mistake of trying out 1sec photo intervals. Bad idea. I previous used 10sec which resulted in 1000 photos to make a video. I had 1,400 pictures to compile which took forever and then Vimeo said "sorry, your video is too big. So, for your youtube viewing pleasure... Day 1. Not terribly exciting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6KU3lBhjaT0
Mechie,
Loved the video, I don't need a manual. I will just copy what your doing.
I wish I could be as focused as you. I have to stop every **minutes the think things through.
8 days and counting
Bob

[Mechie3]

Bob, I got the manual via download as my kit was in transit and read through it to get an idea of what to expect. Before I start work I preview a section so I don't waste too much time sitting there thinking "so what was I doing exactly? ". I did turn the camera off once when I realized j misplaced a part and spent 10 minutes looking for it. Lol

[Samiam1017]

Nice video. These are alway intertaining.

[David Hodgkins]

Mechie, I wrote all the parts contained in the box on the outside of the box with a sharpie. That way I didn't have to find my paperwork when looking for parts later.

Also, are you marking the aluminum where they meet the frame with a sharpie before removing so you know where to drill mounting holes?

Looking good man!

:)

[Mechie3]

For the firewall parts, I was marking the frame, then measuring in 1/2 the width and spacing them out. Started a 1/2" in from the ends then evenly divided spaces in between (usually between 2.625 and 3" spacing). It did bite me in the butt three times. Twice I drilled the panel where later I couldn't drill the frame. Once it ended up that two panels overlapped, but because the instructions say to do it 1 at a time, you don't notice. For the interior panels, I've been prefitting all of them with clamps. Some of them I mark and drill on the press, but most I ended up marking on the inside and drilling the aluminum and steel all at once.

I only have 25 cleco's, so I'm playing leapfrog. Having 50 would be nicer/easier if you plan to predrill all the panels and then remeove them for coating.

[Mechie3]

Here's the video from Saturday. Photos now at 5sec spacing, but played back at the same rate per frame, so time is 5x faster. Makes for shorter videos, easier rendering, and prevents ADD. For some reason, it seems to render the first two frames at the very end as well. Who knows why. Placing, drilling, cleco-ing, and aligning firewall and some interior panels

https://vimeo.com/71688959

[Mechie3]

One of my friends (with an asian wife) posted this on our local forum. I also have an asian wife, so it may be funnier to us than to others. (for those not in the know, it's the "High Expectations Asian Father" meme).

http://i.imgur.com/yRWmHLO.png

Hahaha

[Mechie3]

Day 3 video finished uploading. Mostly fitting the fuel tank (still needs work), rear firewall, and the center tunnel (required some trimming to clear two weld beads in the front).

https://vimeo.com/71731761

[Nuul]

Coming along very nicely

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Day 3 video finished uploading. Mostly fitting the fuel tank (still needs work), rear firewall, and the center tunnel (required some trimming to clear two weld beads in the front).

https://vimeo.com/71731761

Hi Mechie
Your working so fast, I need a way to play the video in slow motion so my mind can absorb all what you are doing.
Bob

[Mechie3]

Hi Mechie
Your working so fast, I need a way to play the video in slow motion so my mind can absorb all what you are doing.
Bob

Maybe you can download them? I don't know. I wouldn't care if you did.

Either that or I can email you all 30,000 pictures I have taken so far of the process. :lol:

[Xusia]

As I stated before, I am happy to allow the use of my server for the purposes of temporary sharing. :)

[flynntuna]

Day 3 video finished uploading. Mostly fitting the fuel tank (still needs work), rear firewall, and the center tunnel (required some trimming to clear two weld beads in the front).

https://vimeo.com/71731761

Is that a digital copy of the manual you are referring to on your laptop? If it is they don't recommend riveting the firewall starting the engine do they, your just fitting it at this point right?

[Mechie3]

Is that a digital copy of the manual you are referring to on your laptop? If it is they don't recommend riveting the firewall starting the engine do they, your just fitting it at this point right?

Digital beta version of the manual.

The order as in the manual is front firewall, front/rear suspension, interior side panels, floor pan, then it digresses into pedals, cylinders, steering column, fuel tank assy then installation, then trans modifications, engine install, then interior firewall and such (more or less in that order). It's interesting to note though that some steps show later steps already complete (ie: fuel tank installation shows motor already in, even though motor installation is later in the manual).

I want to get all of my aluminum fitted, drilled, trimmed (as necessary) and powdercoated first. That way I'm not help up later waiting for powdercoating or drilling holes in freshly coated panels. I had to trim the corners of some panels to make more clearance for weld beads. Currently everything is cleco'd or clamped in place. Once it's all set, I'll remove it all, deburr it, and have it coated.

[Mechie3]

The suspension spacers provided by FFR are saw cut plain steel. I measured them and most of them were actually within +/- .005". Certainly good enough and cost effective too. I was going to deburr them and powder coat them when I realized I could just make my own from stainless steel, save money on coating, and not worry about the coating wearing off.

Top row of each set is the FFR spacers, bottom row are mine made from solid rod stock I found in the scrap pile. :D

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130805_184120_594.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130805_184120_594.jpg.html)

[RM1SepEx]

I powder coated mine black, your stainless ones will be damn pretty!

[Mechie3]

Hopefully I'm just too tire to think straight and not really an idiot.

Upper control arms mount with the short arm in the back, the top of the ball joint leans outwards according to the text. On the passenger side I can do this, though the tabs held in by the long transverse bolt/mounting rod are on the bottom of the collar. The CAD model shows these being on the top side of the collar with the grease fittings facing upwards on page 72 of my manual. Ironically enough, the CAD model also shows the driver side with the bearing top tipping inwards.

I can get the driver side to work according to the text (but wrong according to the only shown CAD view). Am I just looking at it wrong? It seems as though the plate needs to be flipped, but then the long rod is in the short adjuster and vice versa. Both arms will work on the passenger side.

Driver:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130805_222427_161.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130805_222427_161.jpg.html)

Passenger:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20130805_222355_311.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20130805_222355_311.jpg.html)

[Erik W. Treves]

Take the driver one apart and flip it.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/th_IMG_7932_zpsf0ff2594.jpg (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/TREVESK/media/818/IMG_7932_zpsf0ff2594.jpg.html)

they don't come as a left and right. They come setup as the same side from the OE..just take it apart and reassemble so it fits the side you need.

and now you know why I had a cold one in the pic....

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e344/TREVESK/818/20130624_202441_zps6b6a9e1a.jpg (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/TREVESK/media/818/20130624_202441_zps6b6a9e1a.jpg.html)

[metalmaker12]

Don't forget to mention the cutting of the welded stud end down 1.100 inches

[Mechie3]

Take the driver one apart and flip it.

They come setup as the same side from the OE..just take it apart and reassemble so it fits the side you need.


That was what I was referring to above with undoing it but ending up witht he long stud in the short sleeve. Which leads to metalmakers comment.


Don't forget to mention the cutting of the welded stud end down 1.100 inches

Was this in the instructions? Did I just overlook it?

[metalmaker12]

No man

[Jeff Kleiner]

The crosshaft links are not symmetrical (note how they are offset and see how the grease fittings are pointing up in one photo and down in another) so be sure to orient them the same side to side as you're flipping and reconfiguring. On the roadsters we assemble with the fittings pointing up but perhaps you are instructed to do the opposite for the 818. I'd think whichever way makes the upper closest to parallel with the lower when at ride height would be best.

Cheers,
Jeff

[RM1SepEx]

cut it down? is the 1.1 how much you cut off or how much you leave? I just reoriented the spacers...

I put all my grease fittings down, just for appearance, didn't know there were other factors

[Erik W. Treves]

THe grease fittings go on bottom...

you flip the whole thing , take it apart so it looks right and move the sleeves so the small one is the back...like my photo...

one of the arms you will have to cut for final alignment....I wouldn't worry about cutting it now...mine is still un cut...no need to worry about it now until you get closer to aligning the car.

[Wayne Presley]

You cut 1.100 off the end of the welded stud, flip the cross bar over so the grease fittings are on the bottom. Here is the left side assembled.

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/20130803_080312_zpsb7033de4.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/20130803_080312_zpsb7033de4.jpg.html)

[Mechie3]

Thanks. That makes sense. The long rod is too long, but with the short rod you still have enough thread to have more than 1" hanging out (which is bad). I'll do that tonight if I get a chance. Unfortunately, my next solid work evening is Friday. :/

For my transmission bracket, I have a 1/4" gap between the OEM and FFR bracket. I could just bend it to fit, but was hoping for a more elegant solution. My OEM bracket unbolts (06+ style) so the dimensions might be different than pre 06. I'll see what FFR says.

Here's all I got done last night. The control arms were a bit tricky to get in. Passenger side was easier. Driver side I put the top bolt in first with the aluminum bracket 1/2" above the steel so I had room to angle the lower bolt in place. Tapped it in with a mallet. I couldn't find nuts for the bolts in the hardware package. I'll have to look again. I was too tired last night to do anything straight after awhile.

https://vimeo.com/71791440

[Wayne Presley]

Here is what it looks like with the nut threaded on until it stops

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/20130806_085846_zps43f3a0c6.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/20130806_085846_zps43f3a0c6.jpg.html)

[Mechie3]

Good pics.

FFR said that on their white car they just bent the bracket for the trans. I'm guessing the FFR bracket is smaller to fit a (possibly) smaller early style bracket. I'll just space it out with washers.

[C.Plavan]

I think a "Sticky" should be made for this, and the Control Arm bushing placement. Anyone agree?

[Mechie3]

Most of this stuff will be in the completed manual. Most of our "issues" are self inflicted because we're too stubborn to wait for a complete edited manual and want to go ahead anyways. :D

[Wayne Presley]

I think a "Sticky" should be made for this, and the Control Arm bushing placement. Anyone agree?

Like this one... http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11115-818-assembly-tips-add-yours

[RM1SepEx]

The crosshaft links are not symmetrical (note how they are offset and see how the grease fittings are pointing up in one photo and down in another) so be sure to orient them the same side to side as you're flipping and reconfiguring. On the roadsters we assemble with the fittings pointing up but perhaps you are instructed to do the opposite for the 818. I'd think whichever way makes the upper closest to parallel with the lower when at ride height would be best.

Cheers,
Jeff

the actual arm angle is from the ball joint pivot through the center of the shaft and that doesn't change, the only thing that changes is a slight change in the angle of the ball joint, you can put the grease fittings either way. I prefer them on the bottom for appearance only.

[C.Plavan]

Like this one... http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11115-818-assembly-tips-add-yours

Doh! Didn't see that. Nice.

[Mechie3]

Got a few things done.

Rear suspension links. Some of the spacers were tight! Able to use a pry bar in some areas, had to grind down the spacers in others. I checked my measurements and they were all within .005", but .005" x 3 pieces is .015", a considerable overlap and not unexpected. Thankfully the camera died partway through so you don't see me fumbling around with a hammer.

Shifter: Located it, installed riv nuts....spacing is off. Waiting to hear from FFR what they did on their white car. I was hoping for enough compliance in the bushings to make it fit, but there isn't. Edit: FFR is making some offset washers for these.

Gas Tank: I had to pound the corner in. FFR has already updated the components for future kits. It got it to fit, then got "greedy". I wasn't happy with the clearance so I gave it a little more and got too tight to of a wrinkle to feel comfortable. Back to my original plan of cutting the corner, bending the sheets in, and re-welding it. Got it mounted so it fits really easily now though. Started on the in tank assemblies too, but I'm missing two parts to get very far.

https://vimeo.com/71943661

[Erik W. Treves]

You better put some water in the tank and leak check it...I pounded mine in and it leaked almost immediately!

sorry...didn't read that you re-welded it...I did that to mine and then POR-15 sealed the entire tank.

[RM1SepEx]

photos please...

[Mechie3]

You better put some water in the tank and leak check it...I pounded mine in and it leaked almost immediately!

sorry...didn't read that you re-welded it...I did that to mine and then POR-15 sealed the entire tank.

I didnt weld it yet, but plan to. Leaks where I can't see them are my concern too.


photos please...
I'll take some tonight. Need to upgrade my photobucket. Too many views in 12 days killed my account.

[Erik W. Treves]

The POR-15 sealer is the cat's meow...I used it on my cobra when I built the gas tank for it...4 years later still no leaks! Just FOLLOW the directions

[metalmaker12]

Got a few things done.

Rear suspension links. Some of the spacers were tight! Able to use a pry bar in some areas, had to grind down the spacers in others. I checked my measurements and they were all within .005", but .005" x 3 pieces is .015", a considerable overlap and not unexpected. Thankfully the camera died partway through so you don't see me fumbling around with a hammer.
Shifter: Located it, installed riv nuts....spacing is off. Waiting to hear from FFR what they did on their white car. I was hoping for enough compliance in the bushings to make it fit, but there isn't. Edit: FFR is making some offset washers for these.

Gas Tank: I had to pound the corner in. FFR has already updated the components for future kits. It got it to fit, then got "greedy". I wasn't happy with the clearance so I gave it a little more and got too tight to of a wrinkle to feel comfortable. Back to my original plan of cutting the corner, bending the sheets in, and re-welding it. Got it mounted so it fits really easily now though. Started on the in tank assemblies too, but I'm missing two parts to get very far.

https://vimeo.com/71943661

I will try to fit my tank this weekend, I have to cut my tranny bracket and reeled that cause a tab is bent in the wrong direction, I will have my tig machine going, might as well lol:cool:

[Mechie3]

I will try to fit my tank this weekend, I have to cut my tranny bracket and reeled that cause a tab is bent in the wrong direction, I will have my tig machine going, might as well lol:cool:

Is this an issue an all early frames? My motor isnt ready yet so I haven't tried fitting anything.

[David Hodgkins]

Mechie, you should copy your pics to an album here. All the photobucket pics have been replaced with an "upgrade to Plus..." message due to the number of views.

:)

[Nuul]

Or an imgur account

[Mechie3]

Yeah, only took 12 days this time to push it over the limit. My 818 must be popular. lol.

[Mechie3]

Painted my trans cover with WRB paint, clear coated, then machined out the Zerodecibel Motorsports logo in the middle. Didn't like the machine marks from 5 different tools all visible so I decided to spray silver in a cup, pick it up with a syringe, then let it bleed out in teh cavities. Good idea, bad execution. It must have retained some gas in the paint because as it bled out it would randomly spatter all over. I'm letting the silver dry and then I need to redo the paint on the raised portion of the monkey by hand.

http://i.imgur.com/UoJdD37.jpg (http://imgur.com/UoJdD37)

[timmy318]

Now that is sexy..... Gonna have to do something like that with my trams cover (but not near as cool)!

[Silvertop]

Painted my trans cover with WRB paint, clear coated, then machined out the Zerodecibel Motorsports logo in the middle. Didn't like the machine marks from 5 different tools all visible so I decided to spray silver in a cup, pick it up with a syringe, then let it bleed out in teh cavities. Good idea, bad execution. It must have retained some gas in the paint because as it bled out it would randomly spatter all over. I'm letting the silver dry and then I need to redo the paint on the raised portion of the monkey by hand.

That's really spiffy! I think with the level of detail you are are investing in your build, you are going to wind up with a show-quality car. Really nice workmanship. Question though -- given the proximity of the transmission cover to the rear bodywork, is that nifty artwork going to be visible?

[David Hodgkins]

That's really spiffy! I think with the level of detail you are are investing in your build, you are going to wind up with a show-quality car. Really nice workmanship. Question though -- given the proximity of the transmission cover to the rear bodywork, is that nifty artwork going to be visible?

That's what THIS is for!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20522&d=1376000515

:D

[Silvertop]

That's what THIS is for!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=20522&d=1376000515

:D

Now that's FUNNY. I really did LAUGH OUT LOUD! ;)

[metalmaker12]

Wish I had access to a Cnc

[07FIREBLADE]

Me too that's neat. Looking great keep it up

[Mechie3]

It should be visible through the mesh. Either way, I'll know it's there and smile. :)

Metalmaker: my first job had a shop that didn't allow engineers in. I love that my current job has a CNC and lets engineers use it to sharpen their skills. Best job perk ever.

[Xusia]

I was thinking about doing something similar, but with a 818 logo. I kinda like the idea of the cover being visible.

[Mechie3]

Thanks to Travis, I got a super deal on powdercoating a bunch of steel brackets and aluminum panels. I think I had a total of 78 pieces powdercoated for less than it would cost me to buy an eastwood gun and powder.

http://i.imgur.com/8kLTlN7.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/fWNRwXN.jpg?1

[Mechie3]

Last nights video. Inventoried powdercoated pieces and installed the rear suspension. Went and played vball in between, thus the change of clothes halfway through. https://vimeo.com/72020933

[Mechie3]

Modified tabs. I placed the aluminum lower firewall and drew lines where the opening for the tabs overlapped the actual tab and then trimmed it. Also had to trim the tab front/back. I had to redrill the 3/8" hole in the frame. When the holes lined up, the fill port on the back was too close to the frame.

http://i.imgur.com/00iny6r.jpg

Beating on the tank. The corner used to come to a point. Now it comes to a flat edge. You can see the wrinkle at the bottom that needs to be cutout.
http://i.imgur.com/jUAmlkO.jpg

[Samiam1017]

Is that upper link supplied With the kit? Also can you add some music to your videos?

[Mechie3]

Is that upper link supplied With the kit? Also can you add some music to your videos?

The gold links are with the kit. The aluminum links are OEM. The 06WRX forward most rear lateral link is aluminum. Since we're not using a rear swaybar, I used two sets of the forward links.

Music: I will eventually when I string all the short videos into one long one. I typically end work around 11/11:30 at night. By the time I transfer all the photos and compile them into a video I'm not getting to bed until midnight or later so I skip the music for now.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I think samiam was just teasing about the music. thanks for the videos. Pick up our kits Monday.
bob and mike

[Mechie3]

True. My sarcasm meter may be broken from my 1am bedtime. He'd probably complain if I added music anyways. haha!

"What is this fast pop punk crap? Kids these days" (though, I'm more than old enough for my own kids. ha!

[metalmaker12]

Nice mechie

[Samiam1017]

I love the videos. I just can't get the mission impossible theme outta my head when I watch it and you move way to fast that theme. Lol.

[metalmaker12]

It should taken less effort than that, the frame must have stunk in more than expected from the welding.

[Mechie3]

It should taken less effort than that, the frame must have stunk in more than expected from the welding.

The only ones difficult to get in where the upper link that is boxed in from all sides. The others that are open ended were easy enough.

The instructions show the trans linkage being ground apart. The 06 bracket is bolt apart and looks to be wider than it's previous MY counterparts. I made two ~.070" shims, one for each side. FFR used a washer and bent the OEM bracket to fit. I like this better. Clamped it together to drill it.
http://i.imgur.com/QsSPkFk.jpg

Taped up and sand blasted the monkey to clean up the mess I made yesterday. I'll have to hand paint it later.
http://i.imgur.com/lNRDyOp.jpg

[Mechie3]

Used a toothpick and model car enamel to hand paint the monkey. After it dries I'll clear coat it all.

http://i.imgur.com/f4dioUE.jpg

[Mechie3]

Last post...then I'm going home. Didn't want a rusty CV housing sticking out of my front hubs, so I cut one of them down to see how it fits. If it works, I'll cut the other one down later.

Don't touch it, it's probably hot:
http://i.imgur.com/NguNMbi.jpg

Machined it smooth. Cutting hardened bearing races = no fun.
http://i.imgur.com/G4r57Ug.jpg

[RM1SepEx]

Are you going to cap off the hole? I think I'll do the same to mine and powder coat the hole

[Mechie3]

No. It's not so much a hole as a dish. I couldn't quite see what FFR did, but they have something similar, though it looks cut down a bit more. The carbides on the lathe did not like cutting the inside, so I left it as is.

Workday 7. Had to do some grinding to make the front control arms fit (FFR has fixed this on later frames) and mounted the now drilled and powdercoated panels with silicone and rivets. Battery died near the end so the video got cut off.

https://vimeo.com/72100276

Here's my control arm bits and my process.

1: Remove bushing housing and install lower (the inside most) bolt. Make it flush with the mounting tab.
2: Mark the upper steel mounting tab for grinding on both the gusset and the hole. My gusset interfered with proper locating of the bushing housing. Metalmaker said he didn't have this problem.
3: Grind......grind........grind some more......... I test fit along the way so that the hole wasn't any bigger than it needed to be.
4: Reinstall bushing on arm, mount from of arm, mount lower bolt on bushing housing, mount upper bolt on bushing housing. Check rotation of arm for binding.
5: Passenger side, my upper bolt fit well and with that that in place, the distance from the broomstick on the steering rack mount to the tab* was within 1/32 from the driver side to the passenger side.
6: I marked the lower aluminum hole on the passenger bushing for grinding. I ground with the upper bolt tightened down so I could easily and quickly test fit. Once it just fit, I put that bolt in and tightened and remeasured. Checked for binding in the bushing.

* The swaybar mounting tab is a cast piece. Instead of measuring to that, I put a bolt in the hole which is machined and more accurate IMO. The bolt is angled slightly, so always measure from the same side of the tab to the broom stick.

The driver side steel tab was slotted towards the back of the car.
The passenger side aluminum mount was slotted towards the outside of the car.

I'm not concerned about it moving for several reasons:
Driver: I slotted to the rear, bolt can't move any farther back. Arm prevents it from moving forward. Rotation would move it towards the inside or outside of the car to which the lower bolt restrains it.
Passenger: Pretty much the same as above, it's only slotted in one direction on one hole to which moving backwards in the slot is not possible due the arm preventing it from moving.

Driver side before grinding. Notice location of bottom is flush with mounting tab.
http://i.imgur.com/NI5zdOf.jpg?1

Another view of the same thing.
http://i.imgur.com/2MoQAfX.jpg?1

The amount of gusset cut away was ~1/2"
http://i.imgur.com/RPRLLqh.jpg?1

[Mechie3]

http://i.imgur.com/5CZiyy7.jpg

[RM1SepEx]

I could see a screw and what looks like a sheet metal plate in some of the Factory 5 photos of the back of the CV

LCA Mods: Your cut of the vertical and offset backwards on the left, and offset to the outside to the right look to be almost identical to mine.

Looks like it was much easier to do and photograph before the aluminum panels are attached too!

[FFR-ADV]

Hi Mechie3,

Did you end up getting the BiMarco Futura Seats?

BTW Thank you for all the detailed pics and videos! Great Build!

Cheers!

[metalmaker12]

I wouldn't say the gusset does not interfere for install, it does but my mount is only very slightly off center and my holes are not more than two drill sizes larger. The gusset interfers when you try to install the arm, but once in place seems to be a tenth clearance. I am confident it should be ok. If I feel it is an issue when driving I will do it all over again. I hope not !!!

[Mechie3]

I wouldn't say the gusset does not interfere for install, it does but my mount is only very slightly off center and my holes are not more than two drill sizes larger. The gusset interfers when you try to install the arm, but once in place seems to be a tenth clearance. I am confident it should be ok. If I feel it is an issue when driving I will do it all over again. I hope not !!!

Mine interfered when I pit the bushing in not attached to the arm. Could just be minor differences in the bushing or frame.



Hi Mechie3,

Did you end up getting the BiMarco Futura Seats?

BTW Thank you for all the detailed pics and videos! Great Build!

Cheers!

I did. They're on a slow boat from Europe.

[Mechie3]

Didn't get a whole lot this weekend. Saturday was my wife's Bday and we had our scuba diver certification dives saturday afternoon and sunday am. Managed to get a couple hours in Sunday evening after a nap.

https://vimeo.com/72162890

[GUNS]

Looking great! Were your dead pedals a bit of a pain to fit?

[Mechie3]

They were. I had to bend one of the flanges a little bit more to get things to line up. Once I fit them, they went back in fairly easily. The first fit was a a bit of a hassle. A rubber mallet helps.

Didn't get much done tonight. Spent time looking for bolts that didn't exist and trying to get the camber bolts to fit through the front adapter bracket. The manual calls out a 1/2x13 x2" bolt for the rear suspension AND for the front shock but the parts list only shows 2 total. There were some orphaned 2.25" long bolts in the same size and thread so I used those.

My passenger side steering bracket wouldn't fit either. It needs to be .35" shorter (closer to the driver). My rack is off an 06 WRX, which is what the original FFR donor was, but sometimes proto's and production don't match. I'll probably machine my own from aluminum (but let FFR know so they can investigate potential issues).
http://i.imgur.com/IHMA7Iz.jpg

The diameter was also too tight to fit by about .030"
http://i.imgur.com/lnwqu8C.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/zoPZnHf.jpg

Here is where my clutch mounting bracket doesn't match the sheet metal.
http://i.imgur.com/oMtLuXm.jpg

[GUNS]

^ My Clutch MC panel is not like that. it sits flush, just a little off center. I have a feeling all of the panels are close to spot on, but in my case some of the welds were getting in the way.

[RM1SepEx]

My firewall aluminum is out less than 1/4" in that area vs 1/2"

just picked up a few more powder coated pieces last night, my rack mount has the same issue as your's. It is symetrical so we can just flip it to support the rack closer to the center but we will need to grind it to fit the rack diameter. Too bad it was powder coated first...

[metalmaker12]

I had the same issue with the rack mount, but I am choosing not to use it since I don't think it is helping hold the rack down or in place any better than the stock bits used. The master mount area I had the same issue, I placed one of the spacers on the inside and one on the outside, I think the directions say both on outside. With that gap and no spacer you will pull the aluminum in and distort it when tightening the master on. So what I did seems to work. I have told Tony Z about all these issues and there are some others you will be noticing, but nothing major.

[Mechie3]

It is symetrical so we can just flip it to support the rack closer to the center QUOTE]

Mine isn't symmetrical. One side is ~1.85" center of hole to center of rack, the other is ~1.6" center of bolt hole to center of rack.

[QUOTE=metalmaker12;113507]I have told Tony Z about all these issues and there are some others you will be noticing, but nothing major.

What else have you found? I've been jumping around due to back ordered parts so I'm ahead on some areas and behind on others.

I don't have my rear suspension fully together (missing trailing arms) but one of my brackets touches the weld on the shock body. It might change once it's at right heigh though, so I haven't mentioned it.

[metalmaker12]

Yea mine is not symmetrical either, I am fabbing something better to hold it down, but for now it seems like it is holding good.

The 2002 gas pedal mount, but you have an 06 which is all set. My radiator is a bit thicker than most, so i have to get creative, but that's not a FFR error, just me wanting a big radiator. My tank fits, but it was very close, and I am almost done trimming down my harness, but I am sure there will be issues that we will have to bring up with that unless that's what there working on with the build book. From pre- harness fit ups, some wires look like we're going to have to extend, ex: the column,front lights,radiator fans, cluster, maybe some you might want to shorten etc, nothing crazy, but some solid time to get it to fit nice. I am using a normal- larger sized battery up front. I am trying to get more weight up front to make the car even more balanced. My radiator is a monster 3 gal koyo, so there's some more weight, the 4 pots are heavy to, so you see we're I am going. As close to 50/50 as possable.

[Mechie3]

I did see where it said some wires may have to be extended, but I'm not there yet. After Friday, I won't be able to work on it for three weeks either. :/

[metalmaker12]

I am in NH on a 3 day, coming home today

[RM1SepEx]

Perhaps we could grind the rack mount to fit the diameter and just bend the tab where it hits the fitting? Did either of you get the long bushings shown in the manual? All that I have is qty 2 of .032 spacers, useless for that operation... or flip it and grind the material off to better center the rack in the mount .025 location of the rack shouldn't matter in operation.

[Erik W. Treves]

I have an 02 rack and mine is no where close to that fitting. Wayne and I were also missing our bushings as well.. I just made some

[Mechie3]

I plan to integrate the bushings into a new mount all made from aluminum. These issues aren't unexpected. The only frustrating part is sitting there wondering if the part is wrong or if I've suddenly become an idiot and can't assemble things right because it's late at night. lol.

[metalmaker12]

I have an 02 rack and mine is no where close to that fitting. Wayne and I were also missing our bushings as well.. I just made some

I had no bushings either and I also made some out of stainless pipe much like FFR's.

[Mechie3]

Here's my solution to the no bushing not quite right bracket. It's a simple aluminum block sized to mate with the bushing and upper bracket and bolt through the existing holes. I didn't need a CNC, just a manual mill and a jig boring head. It's kind of blocky looking, but now that I know it fits I can go back and pretty it up with some radii. No sense wasting time adding radii to something you might end up scrapping.

http://i.imgur.com/Oc7Rp9l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/UPzBVli.jpg

[metalmaker12]

Yeap my thoughts exactly on design, I actually have a block I was going to do the same, it will work well

[Frank818]

Any thoughts if that's something FFR will fix at some point in time?

[RM1SepEx]

Craig, Chris... I notice we don't have any clamps on the ends of our rack bellows, what are you planning to use. Have a source for a good narrow clamp? Sometimes I just use heavy wire and twist it but I'm looking for a more elegant soln

[Mechie3]

I have OEM clamps. Just haven't installed them yet.

Did you guys install the brake cylinder yet? I found the 5/16 bolts to be too short to go through the cylinder and the mounting bracket. I had to clearance the pedal assembly too since the holes you drill end up being right next to a wall . I just cut out pockets for the nuts.

[metalmaker12]

I used 1/4 bolts and nuts, and used spacers to fill the gap for the masters mount holes, since they are like 12mm or like 5/16

[Wayne Presley]

I have OEM clamps. Just haven't installed them yet.

Did you guys install the brake cylinder yet? I found the 5/16 bolts to be too short to go through the cylinder and the mounting bracket. I had to clearance the pedal assembly too since the holes you drill end up being right next to a wall . I just cut out pockets for the nuts.

I ground one edge of the head of a bolt and slid it in from the inside. The ground edge keeps it from turning when you put the nut on the outside.

[Mechie3]

Doh! That wouldve saved me at least 45 minutes. My fab tools at home dont match my resources at work.

[Wayne Presley]

Any thoughts if that's something FFR will fix at some point in time?

They have 2 different brackets, one for early racks and one for the 06 up. The early bracket goes under the frame and the late goes over.

[Frank818]

They have 2 different brackets, one for early racks and one for the 06 up. The early bracket goes under the frame and the late goes over.

I see. So it's a matter of using the right one and no modification/adjustment is then required.

[RM1SepEx]

They have 2 different brackets, one for early racks and one for the 06 up. The early bracket goes under the frame and the late goes over.

The rack changed in 05 to the cast mount on the left

however, she don't fit... waaaay too tall to mount on top for the later rack

[Mechie3]

Joe @ FFR said they've already redesigned that piece based on feedback.

Just so it doesn't get lost in the fray:

Anyone that doesn't yet have a kit in hand, don't fret. Most (if not all) of the issues you see us discussing here have been, will be, or are in the process of being rectified by FFR.



We're simply discussing these issues here so we can share ideas, solutions, and prevent each other from wasting time solving problems that others have solved.

[GUNS]

^ Does that mean that us with kits already will get fixes as well?

[Mechie3]

^ Does that mean that us with kits already will get fixes as well?

Likely. Joe said he would mail me a bracket as well as some bolts where the manual calls for 4 bolts of a certain size in 2 different assemblies, but the BOM only shows 2 total.

Here's my video from Monday. Missing springs and I lost the cone adapters for the OEM ball joints. DOH. Probably in that box of scrap metal that I accidentally put three parts in that werent scrap.

http://vimeo.com/72337835

Pedals and cylinder installed:
http://i.imgur.com/Odf90J3.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/dnq36vg.jpg

[Frank818]

Joe @ FFR said they've already redesigned that piece based on feedback.


Anyone that doesn't yet have a kit in hand, don't fret. Most (if not all) of the issues you see us discussing here have been, will be, or are in the process of being rectified by FFR.




That's what I wanted to hear, yeah. :)