Mechie3's 818S

[RM1SepEx]

yes, you could just cut the tie rod, use a tube to extend it and weld it back together too

BUT

that doesn't fix the real problem, location of the pivot relative to the suspension pivot. We want it the same on both sides of the car...

you can move the rack or extend its width between the pivots

That's my preferred soln and the one Craig is working on. I think that it is simpler and easier than revising the rack mounts to the frame. The rack would need to be moved about 9/16 of an inch to the right

[metalmaker12]

bump stop on drivers easy fix

[Mechie3]

What does a bumpstop on the drivers side fix?

[metalmaker12]

What I mean, we don't need the rack to turn more on the pass side to have a good turning radius so if we match the drivers to the same turns as the right it will feel even. I got the alignment close, and have adjustment room so I see no need to move the rack

[Mechie3]

The spacer doesn't give you more turning. Just evens out the ball joint placement relative to the suspension pickup point when the rack travel is centered. It gives even turning left to right.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

That's my preferred soln and the one Craig is working on. I think that it is simpler and easier than revising the rack mounts to the frame. The rack would need to be moved about 9/16 of an inch to the right

It wasn't that hard to move the rack. But I also like the extension better.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23211&d=1383261237

My final solution is to use a clamp with offset mounting holes. The blue is a new clamp. The red is the existing mounting surface.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23212&d=1383804913
Bob

[metalmaker12]

The spacer doesn't give you more turning. Just evens out the ball joint placement relative to the suspension pickup point when the rack travel is centered. It gives even turning left to right.

I did not mean more turning, I know you guys want to center the rack, and bobs bracket will do the trick, but I was saying it's not a huge deal since the car already turns either direction great and is fine to drive. It has the ability to turn in left further cause the rack is not centered. His idea is simple enough to make . The problem is that my wheels are lining up good with my steering wheel and the threads on each side are close, if I move towards the pass side an inch or whatever is proposed I am unsure I will have enough threads on the tie rod. Have you guys noticed this?

[Frank818]

It wasn't that hard to move the rack. But I also like the extension better.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23211&d=1383261237

My final solution is to use a clamp with offset mounting holes. The blue is a new clamp. The red is the existing mounting surface.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23212&d=1383804913
Bob

Nice idea Bob!
I suggest you make FFR know about that to help improve the kit. :)

[RM1SepEx]

My left side uses almost all the threads, the right uses almost no threads, moving the rack 1/2 inch would be much better. You do the same thing, thread wise when you extend the rack

[Mechie3]

It wasn't that hard to move the rack. But I also like the extension better.

My final solution is to use a clamp with offset mounting holes. The blue is a new clamp. The red is the existing mounting surface.


This is a good solution for people with the pre 05 rack who don't have a lathe.


I did not mean more turning, I know you guys want to center the rack, and bobs bracket will do the trick, but I was saying it's not a huge deal since the car already turns either direction great and is fine to drive. It has the ability to turn in left further cause the rack is not centered. His idea is simple enough to make . The problem is that my wheels are lining up good with my steering wheel and the threads on each side are close, if I move towards the pass side an inch or whatever is proposed I am unsure I will have enough threads on the tie rod. Have you guys noticed this?

Bob's bracket won't work for 05+ with the integrated mounting ears. You are correct on the threads which is why we can't simply leave the rack where it is and center travel. It needs to be moved or extended if you want equal travel. For me, making the spacer was the easiest fastest method with the tools I had access too.

It also seems that it isn't something that needs to be done, but because it was easy enough to machine the spacer it was something that I could do and did.


Nice idea Bob!
I suggest you make FFR know about that to help improve the kit. :)

Better idea would be to just move the rack over and fix the problem from the get go.


My left side uses almost all the threads, the right uses almost no threads, moving the rack 1/2 inch would be much better. You do the same thing, thread wise when you extend the rack

This pretty much says it all. All we're doing is effectively moving the rack over without actually moving the rack. It's all relative motion.

[Mechie3]

Rerouted part of my rear brake lines last night. They're no longer in the way of where the inner splash guard mounts and is actually hidden a bit better. It also makes a symmetric pattern with the clutch line. I need to finish mounting the P clamps. I put a brass coupling just under the suspension mounting bracket next to where the clutch line had the same coupling. This way, the flats of both couplings touch and give 1/4" spacing to the lines themselves. A zip tie on both ends of the coupling ensures they stay this way and don't vibrate against each other.

http://i.imgur.com/C7bVvYY.jpg?1

Finally got around to trimming the upper rear firewall. Both corners need two spots removed and the center needed a longer segment removed to clear some weld beads. It sits much flatter against the frame now.

http://i.imgur.com/HO32Mc1.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/g09wJbw.jpg?1

[flynntuna]

From this picture of the original frame used to show the 818 at it's debut at FFR's open house, it doesn't appear that there's an issue with the steering rack being centered. Do the racks have different mounting points in various model years? I do like the machined extension part as the most practical way to address the situation.

[Mechie3]

I would guess the rack is different or the mounts were in a different location. Look how far the far passenger side fluid port is from the passenger side bracket. On mine, it touched.

[Mechie3]

Video from this weekend and monday (I think).

https://vimeo.com/78881799

[Scott J]

That is one awesome video! I hope I'm not going to have to replicate your shifter mount first because I cannot weld but also because I'm nowhere near as flexible as you. Awesome job with your build and I love your attention to detail!

[Mechie3]

That is one awesome video! I hope I'm not going to have to replicate your shifter mount first because I cannot weld but also because I'm nowhere near as flexible as you. Awesome job with your build and I love your attention to detail!

Part of my problem is I measured the Y dimension for the shifter (from the back) and figured "oh, I'll center my rivnuts on the rail" not realizing at first that the rail center spacing was different than the shifter center spacing. If I hadn't done that I probably wouldn't have needed to weld. As is, I just made a mess of that area and decided welding it was the best way to go. Others have been able to bias the rivnuts towards the inside edge and do fine.

[longislandwrx]

Going to do mine this weekend if I can find long enough bolts. I have what I think is a pretty good idea.


Has anyone thought of welding the upper radiator outlet and moving it to the passenger side? Seems like it would really clean up the flex lines.

[RM1SepEx]

Someone posted earlier that an earlier radiator from another Subaru has just such a radiator with the outlet on the end

[longislandwrx]

True, the pre 01 radiator had a passenger side outlet. I meant more for all the people who already had an aluminum one, but that's a great idea for guys yet to purchase one. Plus it doesn't have the turbo line so it might be prefect for the front of the car. The FXT also had a passenger side outlet, but would require capping of the coolant line.

[RM1SepEx]

I don't cut/weld aluminum, don't feel it is worth the hassle to cut and hack at my new aluminum radiator...

[Mechie3]

I'd try it....if I trusted myself. Might end up with a nice shiny piece of scrap.

[Mechie3]

Had a successful lunch. Fitting to put 1/4" hose on FPR and upper radiator mount. Using 1/4" hose because the fitting near the center of the manifold previously used for the purge solenoid is 1/4" and is close and convenient to use for the FPR.

http://i.imgur.com/fo7Zepg.jpg?1

[Xusia]

I don't like the center deal either, so I'm plan to consider other options that work with the donor radiator.

[Mechie3]

Bah....so close to starting. Ended up that one injector doing had gotten pinched so all I did was dump fuel all over the floor.

[Xusia]

So What's an FPR? (In my world it's a Fingerprint Reader, but I don't think that's the case here!)

[longislandwrx]

fuel pressure regulator

[Nuul]

So What's an FPR? (In my world it's a Fingerprint Reader, but I don't think that's the case here!)

This guy right here (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-13109?seid=srese1&gclid=CKvnhMet37oCFcw7MgodoEoA0g).

23311

[Mechie3]

So....

Monday I was too tired to work. Last night I replaced the o-ring and it fired right up and heard the heartbeat of my 818 for the first time. :D Quality is terrible due to cell phone and no exhaust on the turbo.

https://vimeo.com/79259586

Even though I didn't work Monday, I heard the heartbeat of this thing for the first time too. :D

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/IMG_20131111_121259288.jpg (http://s139.photobucket.com/user/mechie3/media/IMG_20131111_121259288.jpg.html)

[longislandwrx]

Congrats x2

[305mouse]

Congrats Craig, it couldn't happen to nicer people. Lisa and I are still trying.

[RM1SepEx]

Congrats! Been a looooong time since I had one of those in my hand... My youngest is applying to college! :-) Autocrossing at 8?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Congratulations Craig
Let's get you priorities in order. Sonogram first.
Bob

[Mechie3]

Congrats Craig, it couldn't happen to nicer people. Lisa and I are still trying.

It could happen to nicer people. ;)


Congrats! Been a looooong time since I had one of those in my hand... My youngest is applying to college! :-) Autocrossing at 8?

Is 8 the youngest? I've already been eyeballing power wheels. Found a Ferrari F1 12V model. Unfortunately it's no longer produced and cheapest I found is $1k. eek!


Congratulations Craig
Let's get you priorities in order. Sonogram first.
Bob

I like to save the best for last. ;)

[RM1SepEx]

Power wheels absolutely! go for the jeep, keep it on grass, lasts longer, find used ones that are outgrown for parts. The earlier they work the hand eye coordination the better off they will be when young adults. Both of my kids can now drive cars in the top 10% of a 100+ group of autocross enthusiasts.

Why? Because I have no worries or concerns on my kids driving in emergency situations. The peace of mind is priceless. Besides you autocross, you want it to be one of the things that your kids like and enjoy too. BUT that means they come first and when the kart breaks, and it will... you fix theirs and perhaps miss your runs!

That's what a dad does... :-) Best thing I ever did, the highest cause of death for teens... driving accidents. www.StreetSurvival.org

[Frank818]

Yes sir, another one running! After all that hard lunch time CNC work, it's pleasant! :)

[wleehendrick]

Congratulations!

[wleehendrick]

I've already been eyeballing power wheels. Found a Ferrari F1 12V model.

Yes! because...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23338&d=1384361014

[Frank818]

https://vimeo.com/79259586

Mechie Mechie :), got a question on the fitting of the IC.

In your video we clearly see 2 sets of bars in a long stretched triangle shape right underneath the IC piping, one triangle on each side of the IC, called Shock Tower Brace on page 442 of the rev 1F build manual. It seems the bars are supporting the IC and piping.

Are these bars/triangles used for anything?
I know starting at page 353 we see the brackets used for the deck/trunk lid hinges and rear side fiberglass body panels, that's fine, but the bars going under the IC piping, are they used for anything?

Example: support the IC, fix in place something else, structural bars that should not be removed, etc.

Again I am talking only about the bars under the IC piping, not the brackets on each side of the frame used for the body panels (I know the brackets are soldered part of the bars, but still I wonder just about the bars themselves. :)).

tnx Mechie!!! :D

[flynntuna]

Congrats!
A little early but this is how my son got started...

[Mechie3]

Frank, the intercooler rides above that bar and is held up by 2 other brackets bolted to the engine.

That bar supports the shock towers and closes off the box that is the engine bay. Otherwise the shock towers are well supported in a vertical plane from front to back, but there isn't much support to prevent them from bending inwards. If you need to love that bar I'd see what FFR says about it, or try to make something that goes over the motor.

[Frank818]

Ok great Mechie, that gives me good info.

I could solder the bar at a lower level, using an extension from the top of the tower downwards, as long as I maintain horizontal movement support for the towers. I didn't see yet any aluminum panel drilled on that bar but I'll give FFR a shout at some point to make sure. :)

[longislandwrx]

Yes! because...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=23338&d=1384361014

Disagree.

23340

[itsymbal]

congratulations! I think you may have to take a hiatus from building if you don't finish in time.

[Goldwing]

The big wheel. The single best toy of my childhood with the most positive memories revolving around it. Disagree indeed, lol.

Congrats Mechie3!! :D

[pwnoz]

So....

Monday I was too tired to work. Last night I replaced the o-ring and it fired right up and heard the heartbeat of my 818 for the first time. :D Quality is terrible due to cell phone and no exhaust on the turbo.

https://vimeo.com/79259586

Even though I didn't work Monday, I heard the heartbeat of this thing for the first time too. :D

Congrats from a fellow Indy builder! I've got an 818 due in May and a baby in June ;)

[wleehendrick]

The big wheel. The single best toy of my childhood with the most positive memories revolving around it.

I never had a bigwheel... :mad:

But FWD still sucks. ;)

[RM1SepEx]

Disagree.

23340

it's an age thing, if you were born in the 50's your trike always tipped over... the big wheel was a MAJOR improvement due to lowered CG

[longislandwrx]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzX9iRKrVvU

[metros]

Congrats on the start up of your 818 and start up of your family!

Having one on the way has been a roller coaster. Feels like a marathon just to get to the birth and that's before the hard work actually starts. Mine is due in December.

[Frank818]

Check out those haircuts! lolll

[wleehendrick]

Having one on the way has been a roller coaster. Feels like a marathon just to get to the birth and that's before the hard work actually starts. Mine is due in December.

Are you talking 818, or baby? ;) (congrats either way!)

[RM1SepEx]

Check out those haircuts! lolll

Hey, in 1975 I resembled that remark! I was in high school though, got my driver's license in '75

[Xusia]

Congrats, Craig!

And the big wheel was totally awesome. Not quite as cool as the Green Machine though!

[Nuul]

I've already been eyeballing power wheels.

I've already done the research on how to make them go faster when you're ready for that. There is really nothing to them, it's two cheap RC car motors wired into an even cheaper gearbox.

[Mechie3]

I may or may not have looked at ways to stick too big of a motor in a kids plastic toy. :D

Made up my new steering rack spacer. Works as intended this time :)
http://i.imgur.com/IsPVKZM.jpg?1

Finished up my radiator mounts:
http://i.imgur.com/ClyuGzA.jpg?1

[Frank818]

Nice mounts Craig. As always.

I have a guy who will CNC machine me anything as long as I provide specs in some ways. So I am less jealous now... but I still am. :)

[Mechie3]

My door cards and carbon fiber showed up today. Slightly bummed its only fiberglass with a top layer of carbon but it wasnt completely unexpected. The pieces all have a nice rolled lip and fit the body panels well. My diffuser has the cf on the top where i think bob said his was on the underside.

Ive been busy lately with only minor time to work on the car. Halfway through designing a rear battery box for my deka etx14 and redoing all the wiring. Now that it runs im laying the wires where i can shorten them and removing a lot of the intermediate connectors that now serve little purpose. A bit slow going as all the wires are tangled and running various ways in stock form.

[Frank818]

Hey Craig I was thinking about that, your rad mounts (lunch time CNC machined, of course :)), are they for any type of Subie rad or only one brand/size?

[C.Plavan]

I may or may not have looked at ways to stick too big of a motor in a kids plastic toy. :D

Made up my new steering rack spacer. Works as intended this time :)
http://i.imgur.com/IsPVKZM.jpg?1

Finished up my radiator mounts:
http://i.imgur.com/ClyuGzA.jpg?1

I wish you would sell this stuff. Shut up and take my money! Haha

[GUNS]

Mechie,

I'm sure my steering rack ha the same issue. Do you know what the results would be in not having a spacer? Just unequal turn radius? As long as it doesn't mess with the overall steering/suspension geometry I probably won't worry about it personally.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

My door cards and carbon fiber showed up today. Slightly bummed its only fiberglass with a top layer of carbon but it wasnt completely unexpected. The pieces all have a nice rolled lip and fit the body panels well. My diffuser has the cf on the top where i think bob said his was on the underside.

Hi Craig,
My carbon diffuser is also only is finished on the top side. The bottom is rough. For functionality the bottom needs to be smooth. I may get the bottom finished before instillation.
Bob

[Mechie3]

Frank, radiator mounts use stock rubber pieces. Just need to find out the height of the cylinder on a stock radiator.

Plavan. ;). Quoting steering piece and radiator mount. Oil fill tubes and coolant tank brackets are being machined now. When they show up I'll get my vendor status and sell away.

Guns: unequal turning radius and unequal bump steer. Both are said to be almost negligible. I had tools and stock so it was a free fix for me.

Bob, my bad. I remember one side was and one side wasn't finished. I wonder how strakes would affect flow. If anything it'd look more like a typical diffuser.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, my bad. I remember one side was and one side wasn't finished. I wonder how strakes would affect flow. If anything it'd look more like a typical diffuser.

Hi Craig
I got strakes in one on my update packages.
The strakes keep the low pressure air under the car until the very rear of the car. I think our strakes will also spread the air horizontally to increase the vacuum even more.
This diffuser the strakes are straight.
23494
On Sebastien the diffuser gets wider and higher in the back
23493
bob

[Mechie3]

Hmm, wonder why they didn't send them all at once in the same package.

[wleehendrick]

Hmm, wonder why they didn't send them all at once in the same package.

The strakes are aluminum, so I guess they're coming off a different production line, and some are still back-ordered. BTW, I got all my aero pieces, including strakes, with my kit. Seeing when people get parts, it looks like FFR tries to get them in new kits first to minimize additional shipping charges on their end (I got lots of back-ordered parts in box 12 with my kit that earlier builders had to wait for).

I'll powder coat the strakes a satin black the same as the Al grills, but some guidance on mounting them would be appreciated!

[Mechie3]

Another weekend of prior commitments and no work done on the actual car. My wheels did show up though. Went 18" rear, 17" front.

http://i.imgur.com/eMTIYap.jpg?1

[Quiny]

Nice wheels, are they XXR? What offset? and did you need spacers or extend the studs?

[Mechie3]

I put on extended studs just because it was easier to do them now with the hub apart than try and do it later. They are XXR 530's. 18x8.75 rear, 17x8.25 front +35 for both. I didn't test fit the front yet, just the rear. No spacers were used in the rear. Wayne is a dealer of these now.

[C.Plavan]

Looking good. I like that design.

[Frank818]

You are using VCP's trailing arms, right?

[waruaki]

Nice wheels!

[Scargo]

. They are XXR 530's. 18x8.75 rear, 17x8.25 front +35 for both. I didn't test fit the front yet, just the rear. No spacers were used in the rear. Wayne is a dealer of these now.
Those look really nice and remind me of my PF-01s on my race car. I am anti-spacers.
How much looking did you do as far as weight vs cost vs strength? I see they're not too heavy.
Any thoughts about what size I would want for pure racing and 400whp?

[wleehendrick]

My wheels did show up though. Went 18" rear, 17" front.

Look great! I'm planning on the same in Chromium black.

[C.Plavan]

Those look really nice and remind me of my PF-01s on my race car. I am anti-spacers.
How much looking did you do as far as weight vs cost vs strength? I see they're not too heavy.
Any thoughts about what size I would want for pure racing and 400whp?

IMHO I would be careful with these wheels for racing. Just do some research. There are differing opinions. I would use them on the street no problem.

[Mechie3]

You are using VCP's trailing arms, right?

They're similar. Not sure how they compare on dimensions.


Nice wheels!
Thank you.

(but I didn't make them ;) )


Those look really nice and remind me of my PF-01s on my race car. I am anti-spacers.
How much looking did you do as far as weight vs cost vs strength? I see they're not too heavy.
Any thoughts about what size I would want for pure racing and 400whp?

I looked more for "oh, that's pretty". :D I'm doing street use, maybe some autocross, someday do a track day. If I was building an all out track car I'd pretty get Enkei RPF1's just for weight and strength.


IMHO I would be careful with these wheels for racing. Just do some research. There are differing opinions. I would use them on the street no problem.

IMO, they're like Rota's. Some people have problems, some people don't. If I had a race budget, I wouldn't be getting these.


I've had the base of this battery box programmed for about a week but was busy doing other things. Finally got around to it today.

http://i.imgur.com/6YZumAu.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/BHfYO2M.jpg?1

[Racebrewer]

Nice battery box. Putting it in the stock location or back by the engine?

John

[Mechie3]

Hanging it off the side near the transmission. Everything to the right of the double bolt holes will hang off the side. Not 100% sure I like it, but I'll fit it and see how it works. I made it decently thick so it's pretty strong.

[JeromeS13]

Hanging it off the side near the transmission. Everything to the right of the double bolt holes will hang off the side. Not 100% sure I like it, but I'll fit it and see how it works. I made it decently thick so it's pretty strong.

Nice! Make me one? I'm using the same battery. :D

[Mechie3]

If there's enough interest I can have it quoted. It'll be expensive I'm guessing. Material alone would probably be $60 on a quote.

I just sent my email to Dave Lindsey to get added as a vendor. Word is.....some parts are being hand delivered to my house tonight. :D

[RM1SepEx]

How big is that battery? Specs...

[Racebrewer]

Please put up some pics when you mount it.

Thanks,
John

[AZPete]

I'm curious about the battery in the back. Isn't there enough weight back there? A CNC in the front?

[Mechie3]

How big is that battery? Specs...

Deka etx14. 220cca (iirc) and about 12lbs.


Please put up some pics when you mount it.

Thanks,
John

Will do.


I'm curious about the battery in the back. Isn't there enough weight back there? A CNC in the front?

Cus Wayne did it. ;)

Wayne out a similar battery in back partly because his abs is in front. Because the battery is lightweight it shouldn't be a huge issue with upsetting weight balance. Uses less weight of heavy gauge wiring from the front and has less voltage drop. Because its a small better I wanted to minimize the drop. I considered mounting it above the gas tank but that makes it less accessible and I'm not sure I like having the battery right next to the tank if it sparks when connecting it.

A cnc in front? That might get heavy. ;)

[RM1SepEx]

That is a small battery... I'll have to see how my 22AH AGM batteries crank that Subaru motor... I used 7 of them on Frankenstein when I autocrossed it in electric format. I pulled up to 400 amps out of them for short bursts

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-UB12220-40696-AGM-12V-22AH-12-Volt-22-Amp-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Battery-/190952081823?pt=US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item2c75a1899f

or I could pull one out of my scooter... used to avoid long walks at events...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PowerStar-UPG-UB12260-12Volt-25AH-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Battery-2-year-Warranty-/171080674399?pt=US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item27d533ec5f

[JeromeS13]

That is a small battery... I'll have to see how my 22AH AGM batteries crank that Subaru motor... I used 7 of them on Frankenstein when I autocrossed it in electric format. I pulled up to 400 amps out of them for short bursts

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-UB12220-40696-AGM-12V-22AH-12-Volt-22-Amp-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Battery-/190952081823?pt=US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item2c75a1899f



or I could pull one out of my scooter... used to avoid long walks at events...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PowerStar-UPG-UB12260-12Volt-25AH-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Battery-2-year-Warranty-/171080674399?pt=US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item27d533ec5f

I previously used the same Deka ETX14 in my '08 STI. It did just fine. (Granted I live in Arizona and it doesn't really get cold here).

[RM1SepEx]

well both of the AGMs I have here should be just fine... They are the same technology as the DEKA

though today it was COLD... Just like the Patriots game last night!

[Mechie3]

Here's where it will mount. I need to decide whether to use a spacer underneath it or file down the weld bead. I like filing better from the standpoint that it gives maximum contact between the tray and the frame so it will have more support.

http://i.imgur.com/SbZCf8r.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/Z7iLcZt.jpg?1

[Wayne Presley]

That is about where I mounted mine, sans the custom CNC billet battery tray:cool:

[Mechie3]

That is about where I mounted mine, sans the custom CNC billet battery tray:cool:

:D

I liked your mounting spot better that uses the entire length of the rearmost bar, but my battery is either a little thicker, or because I don't have the VCP shifter bracket, it wouldn't fit. Your location supports two full sides, mine supports the middle and a corner. We'll see how mine works out. lol.

[RM1SepEx]

That is about where I mounted mine, sans the custom CNC billet battery tray:cool:

Is your small battery that same capacity Wayne?

[Scargo]

As JeromeS13 has said, I too have powered an STIon this size battery and smaller! Strictly track use, but it never failed me. Sometimes I had to use the windshield wipers and I always ran the running lights.:cool:

[Mechie3]

Finished my battery tray:

http://i.imgur.com/g61gyiD.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/dfjHEGT.jpg?1

[Frank818]

That looks pretty small!
The tray is awesome, of course. :)

[Mechie3]

Been working on the wiring when I've had a chance to work. Almost there.

In the mean time, I found a better solution to the billet oil dipstick handle. Instead of cutting a slot and using two pins (which wasn't the best, but worked) this design holds it much better, and it's easier to make, and looks nicer. I have a shop quoting me the pieces made from Titanium and Aluminum. This one is on a standard length stick for a 2.5L.

http://i.imgur.com/0s75gm6.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/IIXhF0Y.jpg

[Xusia]

MUCH nicer than stock. :)

[Nuul]

How's the wiring coming? I've not been over to check your progress for a few weeks. I don't care if it is 10 degrees out right now, it's go-cart time.

[Mechie3]

I've got to work on the front headlights, the rear stuff (trans, lights), and a few other things and that should be it. Everything is laying out nicely and lots of excess wiring has been removed along with a few connectors I deleted. The only wires you'll see are the engine harness connectors near the starter and then they'll all tuck along the frame rail.

[metalmaker12]

Yea go cart go cart!!!!

[AZPete]

Craig, I liked your comment on another thread because I'm having the same problem:

"My problem is if that if I know I can do something better I don't want to accept anything less."

I'm slow because I keep re-doing stuff to make it better. Maybe I'll change my name to Re-Pete?

[Frank818]

I'm slow because I keep re-doing stuff to make it better. Maybe I'll change my name to Re-Pete?

HAHAHAHAHHAHAHA!!!! :)

Seriously though, that Craig's statement is exactly how I am.

[metalmaker12]

Omg as if

[Mechie3]

Hahaha. I'm not OCD but sometimes these things bug me as though I've let myself down.

[RM1SepEx]

I'm in the same space, could have go-karted it right after first start, everything is there and bolted up. Just so many things I can clean up and make better... waited for theack extension, now alignment, finish the sliding seat rails, reposition that throttle pedal.. shorten the shifter.. It never ends!

[Mechie3]

Got a few hours more worth of wiring done. Just when you think you're done you find another 6 feet of wire begging to be cut out and shortened. At this point all I have left is the rear ligbt s and the front lights and fans left to wire. I might wait to do those until I do some body work and see exactly where I can run wires.

[Mechie3]

Still doing wiring. It's slow going when it's 20 degrees out.

Decided to do the "longisland" mod on my shifter (thus named as the first person to mount the shifter under the rails). I made some rods to couple with my angled washers. The rod bottoms are cut at 12 degrees to match the internal slope of the shifter housing. The top has a simple bracket since the shifter mounting holes are on 3.945" and 4.045" centers while the rails the shifter should mount to are on 4.5" centers. The CNC was tied up for a few days so I went with simple manual mill parts and shelved my fancy looking CNC designed bracket. The top of the shifter mechanism is almost flush with the top of the rails. This will allow me to make a gated shifter housing or fancy shiftboot trim ring if I so desire.

Bracket and Rods:
http://i.imgur.com/e52Wguw.jpg?1

Top view showing offset mounting holes:
http://i.imgur.com/GHnB9rO.jpg?1

Clamped in place, top view:
http://i.imgur.com/f2NrINa.jpg?1

Clamped in place, side view. Just enough room for the wires:
http://i.imgur.com/aAOPDh8.jpg?1

[longislandwrx]

Nice man, a gated housing would be cool. Are you going to modify the shifter throw?

[Mechie3]

Not sure. When I had it hooked up the throw didn't seem bad. I think it was third gear that actually felt short. Could be because I wasn't rolling the car and the synchro's weren't lining up or could be because something else was off. I do want to change the angle of it though.

[waruaki]

Nice solution utilizing the standoffs.

[Mechie3]

Longislandwrx came up with the standoff idea. I just made brackets so I could center the standoffs on the shifter and center the mounting screws on the rails.

[Mechie3]

Took 5 tons of force, but it came apart.

http://i.imgur.com/qpACox1.jpg

[Scargo]

OH:confused: that wiring! What do you have going on back there? Entertainment Center?

[RM1SepEx]

OH:confused: that wiring! What do you have going on back there? Entertainment Center?

That's a ton cleaner than mine! Craig's done a lot to reduce the wires sitting there

[Mechie3]

OH:confused: that wiring! What do you have going on back there? Entertainment Center?

In a way, yes. :D

Right now the wires are loose with a piece of tape every 8 inches or so on small bundles. Not going to put it in nice neat wrap until I start the motor again and confirm everything still works.

[Junty]

Thanks Mechie3, I'm really enjoying your build. Great to see a real engineer going to extraordinary lengths to make it just right. Awesome..

[RM1SepEx]

The throw isn't long... its just the position that we are "tweaking" I'm going to use the shorten the lever approach

Craig, that positions the shifter what about 4" lower???

[Mechie3]

The throw isn't long... its just the position that we are "tweaking" I'm going to use the shorten the lever approach

Craig, that positions the shifter what about 4" lower???

3.6741" +/-.0005 lower.




:D

The rods were ~3", but the angle cuts off some of that height. The cross brackets are .375" thick. Then, we're mounting on the top side of the shifter housing, not the bottom, so that adds another ..25" due to the change in mounting surface.. It's safe to say it's around 4".

[Xusia]

^OMG! ROFLMAO. A true engineer's answer!

[metalmaker12]

Craig your not an engineer are you?

[Mechie3]

Craig your not an engineer are you?

I am. Have my masters in mechanical engineering from RIT.

[RM1SepEx]

And an answer fitting of one engineer to another as well... Too funny

[Mechie3]

I measured it last night. From the bottom of the plastic housing to the top of my bracket is 3.625". Add in the height of the rail (.75") and the top of the shifter is 4.375" lower than were it used to be.

[Nukejc]

Mechie3 I've enjoyed following your build and excited to see the finished product. I just had a quick question regarding the relocation of the shifter assembly. Is there any concern with the structural stability of that housing fastened that way long term? For the 99.9% of us out there who like to shift gears aggressively, I wonder if there is a need to support the bottom of the plastic assembly from stress?

Thanks and keep up the awesome work!

[Mechie3]

I don't think there is as long as the support rods are beefy enough.

In the stock configuration all of the load is supported by the bottom of the plastic housing. Due to it's close proximity to the frame rails you can sort of consider them to be one assembly (if bolted together with solid pieces, not rubber bushings). Therefore, assume the base is perfectly rigid all forces transmit through the cage portion of the housing into the shift lever.

In the dropped configuration if the rods are beefy enough you can assume them to be rigid members. In reality they have some flex, but relative to the rest of the system it's likely negligible. Thus we can assume the mounting mounts to also be rigid and again all of the forces are transmitted through the cage into the housing just like before.

The assumption that the rods are rigid is one reason I used 3/4" aluminum. It's definitely overbuilt so I didnt have to do any analysis and I found it in the scrap pile ;) The plastic housing itself is rather beefy. Grab it in your hands and try to twist it. It can resist quite a bit.

One last thing to consider, my rods are angled at the bottom and the underside is mated with an angled washer. When bolted together the clamped surface of the washer and rod is parallel to the clamping surface on the shifter housing. In the FFR setup you are bolting a flate plane (frame rails) up against a 12 degree angled plane. Because the threads are in the flat plane the screws push down at an angle on the shifter and the offset washers. Using small head screws it's not as noticeable but using a large button head screw you can see how one side of teh head contacts the washer then binds up so most of teh screw is effectively not clamping on the offset washer.

Edit: Here's a picture. My setup is on the left, FFR setup is on the right.

Blue: Angled bottom rod and angled washer
Red: bolt
Black: shifter housing
Orange: offset washer
Purple: Frame rail
http://i.imgur.com/zfdCRQJ.png

[Nukejc]

Awesome, thanks for the explanation! I think once more people complete the 818 builds this may become a very popular modification. IMO, mounting the shifter above the rails is just too high and this is a great alternative.

Thanks again!

[Xusia]

Love it. Not sure if I'm going to built a platform and mount the shifter on top, or mount underneath the rails like Mechie3.

[longislandwrx]

http://i.imgur.com/zfdCRQJ.png

That's how they teach drafting at RIT? LOL We did it a little different at Polytech.

;)

[RM1SepEx]

At UMO we used crayons... :rolleyes:

[shinn497]

WHOaH ReaLLy !? I graduated from rit too! Physics 08.

[Mechie3]

I graduated in 06. We might've passed each other on the quad.

[RM1SepEx]

Craig, you need to stop doing neat mods, it just makes me think too much and gives me ideas... it's your fault I'm slowing down so much! ;)

[Mechie3]

:D. It slows me down too. We can all blame the shifter on longislandwrx though.

[metalmaker12]

I still like the shifter up high guys, guess I am alone

[Xusia]

Yep! LOL (Just teasing you!) :)

[RM1SepEx]

Graduated in 06, 08 UGH

BSME Graduated in 81...

[Mechie3]

Friday I got part of my new shifter machined. I'm making it in two pieces so I can play around with the height of the top piece without needing to disassemble the entire shifter. The short piece is pressed off the stock lever, the longer piece is the unfinished bottom portion.

http://i.imgur.com/ZBjdGuv.jpg?1



I was looking forward to a nice productive weekend. Temps hit almost 60 on Friday up from a weekly average of 20 the previous week (with a low of 4). Saturday was pretty nice, around 40 or so. I went downstairs to grab my mirrors and door wiring and was greeted with 3" of water in the basement. Awesome! Best as I can tell, one of the sump pumps shorted out tripping the breaker. Both sumps were on the same circuit so that ended that. With heavy rains outside it was only a matter of time. Thankfully most important items were on shelves or in sealed plastic containers. There were several cardboard boxes on the floor. It took about four hours to fully clean up. By then I was too tired to work on the car. It took another hour the next day to move everything on the other side of the basement to make sure no water was trapped underneath containers. On the bright side, it was good motivation to finally clean out the basement and for a lot of the "should i keep this?" items the decision was easy if it was wet.

Sunday I managed to mount my battery tray, run wires for the battery, and wire up my mirrors. Almost had an "oh crap..." moment when the car wouldn't start. With only slight concern, I found the connector that wasn't together and it started up. Was slightly nervous since after removing completely uneeded wires I spent 2 weeks on and off removing excess length of wire and rerouting everything.

[metalmaker12]

I know the black and blue plug you speak of lol, it gave me a heart attack to.

[RM1SepEx]

Craig, I understand your water issue. Back in the mid 80s I was on a trip to CA with Fairchild, w had a storm in Maine and my wife called to tell me how many gallons of water were in my basement. 2 1/2 feet of water in a 28 x 40 basement takes a loooong time to pump out. Gotta love having a wife who is also an engineer, jumped right in and fixed the problem.

I've had a generator for emergency power outages ever since. Had a wire get loose and prevent the sump switch from operating just a month ago... I wonder what drove my back issues... squeegeeing 1/2 inch of water off a small section of floor, and using the big shop vac

[Mechie3]

I know the black and blue plug you speak of lol, it gave me a heart attack to.

That's the one! Forgot I unplugged it to solder some wires that were behind it.


I've had a generator for emergency power outages ever since. Had a wire get loose and prevent the sump switch from operating just a month ago... I wonder what drove my back issues... squeegeeing 1/2 inch of water off a small section of floor, and using the big shop vac

Thankfully we have two pumps in the same pit. If we only had the one and it had gone bad we'd be sunk.

[Mechie3]

Finished the lower shaft and pressed on the original ball. Not sure if I'm going to drill and tap the shaft to add teh upper piece or make a dual adjustable bit with an aluminum center housing.

http://i.imgur.com/q9Nffr9.jpg?1

[Mechie3]

Made the coupler today. It's a bit beefy, though I'd rather it be beefy than broken mid shift.

http://i.imgur.com/1SHVheH.jpg?1

[Scargo]

It's a thing of beauty! Doesn't look too beefy to me. Nice work.:cool: Please turn a custom knob!
One day, I will again have a mill... Perhaps I need a part-time job in a shop? At least, now I have a TIG welder.:p

[Mechie3]

Finished the top lever. Of course it's titanium. Did you expect anything else? :lol:

http://i.imgur.com/aPfde5I.jpg?1

[Wayne Presley]

Did you go to PRI?

[Mechie3]

Unfortunately no. Saturday was the only day I could have made it. That morning was booked and that afternoon I sat down on the couch for what was supposed to be a few minutes and woke up a few hours later. Found out the 818 was there and was mad at myself for falling asleep.

[Scargo]

Finished the top lever. Of course it's titanium. Did you expect anything else? :lol:
Yes, slackard. I expected the whole thing to be of Ti!;) Will knob be made of Unobtanium? What will it look like?

[Mechie3]

I might still go back and make the bottom segment Ti. My scrap pieces are 2 inch OD. Takes quite a bit of time to cut it down to 1/2". Not sure what the knob will look like though it'll likely be titanium. Lol.

[Mechie3]

It warmed up to the high 40's and I got some decent work done this weekend.

Saturday I found another branch of wires that ended up going from the front of the car to the back and to the front in the OEM config. I unbundled this, depinned the connector to separate the wires, move them to the front, and repinned the connector. It's funny that the FFR manual says to add 60" of wire to the windshield wiper connector because it's not long enough. Mine is now about 36" too long before adding any extension. :D It takes a lot longer to do the wiring the way I did it, but you end up with the least amount of wire while retaining a lot of OEM functionality.

Mounted my shifter as well. Made a cardboard template and drilled the holes. The tunnel tubing is rather thin. When I tightened the bolts it started to crush the tubing (didn't have a washer on it). You can see how much space I have underneath the shifter because I only have 2 bundles of wire running front to back that are both about 5/8" diameter. The OEM harness, if left along, would have a huge bundle of wires. I also decided to relocate the front fuse box from underneath the tunnel rail to on top. The fiberglass center console leaves enough room to mount it vertically and off the side so if it rains in the car it's not sitting in a puddle of water. Also makes it easier to access with a small door on the console.

Template:
http://i.imgur.com/6vu38Fr.jpg?1

Mounted:
http://i.imgur.com/6a170kO.jpg?1

Test Fitting Shift Knob:
http://i.imgur.com/U7HdSrQ.jpg?1

Space underneath:
http://i.imgur.com/tSj13qX.jpg?1

Sunday was a day of tying up loose ends. Torqued everything down, put brake pads on, installed the pins for the brake and clutch, and doubled checked everything. Still need to remount the seat and add brake/clutch fluid before I can go-kart. There's snow on the ground anyways so I'm not in a hurry and will continue to modify things as I go. I did find that my clevis for the brakes was bent. Wonder if that happened during the accident since my foot was on the brake pedal during the collision.

It's officially a roller now:
http://i.imgur.com/tfZims0.jpg?1

Tonight will likely be a clean up night. The garage has gotten cramped and needs to be reorganized.

[RM1SepEx]

Craig, I hate you! LOL

You've done it again. I didn't do the extra wire work so I have that huge rats nest vs 2 5/8 inch bundles of wire! between the wires and the shifter it's obvious I should spend some more time cleaning up the harness

[Mechie3]

Craig, I hate you! LOL

You've done it again. I didn't do the extra wire work so I have that huge rats nest vs 2 5/8 inch bundles of wire! between the wires and the shifter it's obvious I should spend some more time cleaning up the harness

Don't hate the player, hate the game! hahahahaha!

I was starting to hate myself. Seeing all these other people who got kits after me go karting and metalmaker doing body work and here I am still cutting wires. Finally getting closer to the end. It felt good to actually do some mechanical work on Sunday.

[longislandwrx]

Very nice, don't mount your e-brake yet until you see what I came up with.


on another note, has anyone seen this?

http://www.estopp.com/

Cool for the S guys.

[metalmaker12]

It was worth it, your wiring is much cleaner than mine. Nice work, I just didn't want to dive too deep and cut to much, if I had I would have had to really look over the diagrams like you did. At least I have the experence of fitting the panels to help ya out

[Mechie3]

Very nice, don't mount your e-brake yet until you see what I came up with.



Too late! It's ok, I remounted my shifter Longisland Style, I can remount my E brake too! There's lots of room in between the FFR ebrake location and my shifter now. Enough for cup holders, buttons, eject handle. lol


It was worth it, your wiring is much cleaner than mine. Nice work, I just didn't want to dive too deep and cut to much, if I had I would have had to really look over the diagrams like you did. At least I have the experence of fitting the panels to help ya out

I was worried about cutting too much. It is nice not being a trail blazer since I end up going backwards 1/2 the time when someone else has a different approach that I like better. Definitely using your, Mike's, and Wallace's body fitting info.

[AZPete]

I feel so inferior when Craig posts cool, innovative, beautiful stuff like this! I just try to copy as much as possible with my meager skills and tools, but finally I have created something better than Craig's!


My shift knob has the shift pattern. Take that, Mechie3!
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/AZPeteCobra/shiftknob.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/AZPeteCobra/media/shiftknob.jpg.html)

[nkw8181]

Where did you get your bearings, seals etc and what brand?


A few hundred bucks worth of bearings, seals, and ball joints.
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-04_11-54-07_916.jpg

Pressing in a hub:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-04_12-32-24_56.jpg

Fronts complete:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-04_12-55-32_957.jpg

And because I'm such a stylish fellow, I did all the work while wearing a dress shirt, sweater vest, and a tie. :lol:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/2013-02-04_12-58-04_825.jpg

(ok, so it wasn't all done in a tie, and I was wearing a shop apron too....but that isn't a funny story ;) )

[Nuul]

Enough for cup holders, buttons, eject handle.

Oil slick, smoke screen and licence plate change if you're going for James Bond.

[RM1SepEx]

I've been procrastinating on my e-brake as I don't like the FFR setup... So what is the better setup?

[Mechie3]

I feel so inferior when Craig posts cool, innovative, beautiful stuff like this! I just try to copy as much as possible with my meager skills and tools, but finally I have created something better than Craig's!


My shift knob has the shift pattern. Take that, Mechie3!

haha! Is that a custom broom handle too? :D About a 16 months ago my boss said "We're shutting the machine shop in California, do we have a use here for the machines?" I pretty much said "uh.....yeah". :D Prior to that I was always disappointed I could design things but had no way to make them and couldn't afford to pay a shop to prototype them for me as that gets expensive quickly.


Where did you get your bearings, seals etc and what brand?
OEM Subaru. Local dealer does 20% off and 25% off on your Birthday. I waited until my birthday and bought all the seals, bearings, ball joints, etc then.


Oil slick, smoke screen and licence plate change if you're going for James Bond.

I was thinking more NOS (2 big bottles), stand alone fuel management (nice way to spend 10 grand), and neon lights so I'm ready for race wars. :D


Made this during lunch: Titanium shift knob. I can't cut internal threads on Ti so I'm going to have to make an threaded insert and press it in.
http://i.imgur.com/qXqvdZr.jpg?1

[nkw8181]

The I just saw the post with the list of part numbers. Just getting around to reading/rereading a few of you guys builds now that I'm deconstructing. Prob have more questions but will finish reading first.

[JeromeS13]

Very nice, don't mount your e-brake yet until you see what I came up with.


on another note, has anyone seen this?

http://www.estopp.com/

Cool for the S guys.

What did you come up with? I'm having a hard time adjusting mine...

[David Hodgkins]

Not to derail the thread but have you guys seen this?

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12787-Our-first-quot-Community-Excellence-quot-Award-Mechie3!

:)

[flynntuna]

We'll deserved!:D

[Mechie3]

Thanks!

Started to pick up the garage a little last night and weighed the remnants of the wiring harness. Some of the tape/wrapping had already been tossed, parts of the door harness were inside the house and not in the box, but I added solder, tape, and shrink tube to the harness in the car so it probably evens out.

All total? 30lbs!

Box on left is tape, wrapping, and plastic sleeving. Box on right is connectors and wire. The box is 19" wide and 10" tall.
http://i.imgur.com/pXMsYoI.jpg?1

[RM1SepEx]

Wow, you pulled almost twice as much as I did, I removed about 18 lbs

[BC Huselton]

Buying Parts = Adam at Somerset Subaru in MA...Call him at 508 676 2378. They are giving discounts to 818 builders. Some over 30%. They are also a posted vendor to FFR. Search them on the forum and you will see their offer. BC

[Mechie3]

Wow, you pulled almost twice as much as I did, I removed about 18 lbs

I certainly felt better about "wasting" so much time on the harness once I saw how much it weighed. The whole time I kep thinking "no one will even see this, so much time, it's probably only 20lbs anyways."

[kkotecki]

I have a CNC router table 5' x 10' with 6" of z-axis. I cut aluminum all day long...in case you want to some stuff cut....oh and I am quietly building chassis 75:) Thanks for all your great info.

[Mechie3]

I have a CNC router table 5' x 10' with 6" of z-axis. I cut aluminum all day long...in case you want to some stuff cut....oh and I am quietly building chassis 75:) Thanks for all your great info.

You should start a thread! Average build, quick build, slow build, crazy build, I enjoy reading them all since everyone does a few things slightly differently.

Because I can't tap titanium and don't have internal thread cutters I made a threaded aluminum insert. Machined it .003" over then straight knurled it. Took 12 tons to press in. Definitely not coming out. Put in on a mill and cut off the excess and sanded it flush. I then put a wheel stud in the back so I could put it on the lathe and torched it. Took quite a bit of time to get the color but it was worth it.

Insert, meet knob:
http://i.imgur.com/IHriYGC.jpg?1

You will be friends and play together whether you like it or not!
http://i.imgur.com/dQgTnXj.jpg?1

See, playing nice wasn't so hard, now was it?
http://i.imgur.com/Rgl7Qaf.jpg?1

And...into the fire we go!
http://i.imgur.com/WECUNOA.jpg?1

[Aloha818]

Very cool!!

[C.Plavan]

Oh Ya! You think your stuff is soooo cool..... My Xmas present arrived...... I can do ABS all day long :) (Poormans CNC) haha.

http://deprocess.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/replicator-2x.jpg


Good stuff on that shifter.

[Mechie3]

Someone on the local Subaru forum got one of those for Xmas!

[Xusia]

I've got a buddy who is super into that. I've been considering it myself. Let us know how it goes Chad. I'm seriously curious!

[Scargo]

I'm seriously curious!
What do you want to build with it? These usually have some serious build size limitations, so you might have to piece together parts. Could be used for ductwork, but a high-heat material might be needed in some instances. My ABS Roo Ducts shrank where they were near the exhaust. I can't think of too much it would be good for except as a pattern maker for casting metal parts. Nylon bushings/small parts of the like would be doable.

[Xusia]

My interest lies beyond the 818, but there are still many things you could build for the 818 with it. A new shifter housing for one (remember, the existing one is plastic!)! LOTS of interior parts, fan shrouds, the list is fairly long...

[JAubin]

Shift knob looks awesome, nice job w/ the press fit too, awesome to see good photos of the parts and process!

FDM 3D Printers (Like a makerbot, Dimension, etc.) are really cool for prototyping size/shape and some basic functional parts. You'd have to really overbuild a part if you wanted it structural enough to use in something like a shifter...and then it would still be marginal. The tech has come a really long way, but most types have a lot of limitations....would be great to use for making molds for composite parts, or as a core that can be reinforced, etc. A lot of times I've used 3D printer parts as my factor of safety...if the design survives some quick tests 3d printed, the molded part will work fine. Just my experience w/ them...

[metalmaker12]

Thanks!

Started to pick up the garage a little last night and weighed the remnants of the wiring harness. Some of the tape/wrapping had already been tossed, parts of the door harness were inside the house and not in the box, but I added solder, tape, and shrink tube to the harness in the car so it probably evens out.

All total? 30lbs!

Box on left is tape, wrapping, and plastic sleeving. Box on right is connectors and wire. The box is 19" wide and 10" tall.
http://i.imgur.com/pXMsYoI.jpg?1


I lost 24lbs total

[Mechie3]

I could stand to lose 24 lbs myself... ;)

Since there's 6" of snow on the ground, it's zero degrees out (literally...zero degrees F, painfully cold), and I can't go kart anytime soon I decided to take a break from wiring. It's 95% done, needs some pieces to be mounted, loose ends tied up, but I'm tired of doing it for now. I needed something that, with much less time, looks like progress. Cue body work!

Got the sides cut down (I think FFR now cuts out the sides as those are the pics I've seen), rear lights mounted, and sides and rear temporarily mounted. Everything lines up pretty well so far. The more time I spend with the body the more I notice little things here and there. Still debating leaving it vs painting.

http://i.imgur.com/HonuJ2q.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/O8hbfyf.jpg?1

Mounted the shift knob:
http://i.imgur.com/atiodrR.jpg?1

[flynntuna]

Don't let the cold stop you, get one of these......

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2372

[metalmaker12]

It's all of 3 degrees right now and we got 13 plus last night. I went out to try to solve my headlight issue, but it's just too cold to be out there more than an hour at most. I need to winter proof more for time to come.

[RM1SepEx]

supposed to be between -10 and -20 here tonight... I only attempt to heat my garage from 30 or so... fingers freeze too fast and with my numb fingers I can't do mechanical work with gloves.

I wish I was in Florida or Arizona for the winter

[Mechie3]

I can work down to about 20. After that it's no good. Monday's forcast is -40F windchill! DO NOT WANT!!!

Two time lapse videos for you all. First is an old one I forgot I even took of my doing the flex lines for the coolant. Not very exciting. Second is the start of the body work. SD card filled up sometime in the middle so it jumps a little at one point.

https://vimeo.com/83329278

https://vimeo.com/83347289

[Mitch Wright]

I enjoy the video's Craig.
Went down to the shop last night to start on installing ARP studs and new wheel bearings, got the hubs apart and studs out and decided the cold had got me. 17* here in Bowling Green last night.

[wolfhound]

Very nice build, Thanks for the pics...

Two time lapse videos for you all. First is an old one I forgot I even took of my doing the flex lines for the coolant. Not very exciting. Second is the start of the body work. SD card filled up sometime in the middle so it jumps a little at one point.

https://vimeo.com/83329278

https://vimeo.com/83347289[/QUOTE]

[nkw8181]

Dang this build is awesome! I'm finally caught up on your thread. So when are you going to post a list of all the parts you will be making so I can order them all!!!

Nolan

[kkotecki]

supposed to be between -10 and -20 here tonight... I only attempt to heat my garage from 30 or so... fingers freeze too fast and with my numb fingers I can't do mechanical work with gloves.

I wish I was in Florida or Arizona for the winter

North of you in Michigan, and I agree. Been working on wiring all week in the unfinished part of the basement. Already talking about schools closed Monday and Tuesday with the -40 wind chills. My goal is still having a Go-Kart for that first balmy 45 degree day in February that always seems to come. I love taking the wife's 09 Mini Cooper S Convertible to the gas station with the top town and heated seats, boy do I get looks.

[RM1SepEx]

I have the ocean only 3 miles away as the crow flies... colder where you are. I love driving one of our 5 convertibles when it's cold out! I keep telling people that the top goes down, the heat gets cranked! 50 is perfect top down weather esp if the sun is out!

[wleehendrick]

Funny you should mention it... I took the day off from the 818, and we put the top down on my wife's 135i and went to the beach. It was a little cool for SoCal (high 60s :cool:).

[Goldwing]

I can work down to about 20. After that it's no good. Monday's forcast is -40F windchill! DO NOT WANT!!!

I have a built in garage with 2-1/2 outside walls (door included there), with the master above the garage. We blew insulation into the uninsulated exterior walls and found a 10*F difference in garage temp. From typical low 40s to low 50s in winter. We also added insulation to the door and an extra turn on the garage spring to balance it again. Our mission was to help the master bedroom's temperature, but this will also prove very nice during my build to start shortly. Got enough insulation for the free rental and added the extra to the attic. Easy work, the hardest part was moving stuff around to gain access to the wall.

[Junty]

Congratulations on this award Craig. Very well deserved...

[Mechie3]

Thanks Junty!

My garage has insulated walls and doors, but not cielings. Still better than being outside!

[nkw8181]

what did you use on your doors?

[DodgyTim]

I don't know how you guys get motivated in the cold, that would stop me even thinking about going outside,
Having said that, for me last weekend was 110F and 60% relative humidity, not the best day to mow the block:cool:

[metalmaker12]

Well yea it sucks, but it just shows our motivation I guess.

[Mechie3]

what did you use on your doors?

The doors that came with the house were insulated doors. They have foam in between the inner and outer skins.


I don't know how you guys get motivated in the cold, that would stop me even thinking about going outside,
Having said that, for me last weekend was 110F and 60% relative humidity, not the best day to mow the block:cool:

Getting off the couch, dressing up, and getting outside is the hardest part. Once I'm out there I'll stay for hours. Even when it's fair weather I'm sometimes lazy and it takes me an hour to actually put the computer away and go outside. Usually I'm only lazy when it's cold.

[Goldwing]

Well, in all fairness, it's easier to heat a garage to 60 from the 40s, than it is to cool a garage to 80s from 110. It's -12*F tonight, this will likely delay my pickup date with Stewart. Getting...so...close. :)

[Mechie3]

Thanks to some -14F weather with a -45 windchill I got a snow day. Rather than waste it sitting inside I put on a couple pairs of socks, three sweatshirts, some long johns, a hat, gloves, and a facemask. With the heater running it actually got up to 38, though standing next to the heater was warmer of course.

http://i.imgur.com/05lmC5a.jpg?1

This was after I shoveled about a foot of snow off the entire driveway. It all blew back in overnight.
http://i.imgur.com/ond2pcG.jpg?1

Some more body panels installed. Door skins are just sitting there until I finish the fenders. Passenger fender is bolted to the bumper (had to notch out certain areas) the hood, driver fender, and bumper are just sitting there for now. The headlight buckets went in quite easily after I rounded off some square edges on the buckets. Where the fender has a flat spot and mates with the front bumper I had to file down a bump on the bumper to get them to sit better together. The front bodywork, so far, has been much easier than the rear. The pieces are more flat with less 3D protrusions making it really stiff so it can be flexed into position.

http://i.imgur.com/MInZGSc.jpg?1

Last but not least, the video of the entire weekend (minus when the SD card filled up, the battery died, or I needed time to figure out what I was doing before filiming myself just staring at things, :lol:)

https://vimeo.com/83575686

[longislandwrx]

Mechie, I just picked up one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360511025651?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

It changed my life.

[Mechie3]

Amazon has it for $164. What does the battery do, just operate the fan? Is there a thermostat? I need to insulate my cieling. Walls and door are insulated, cieling isn't.

http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Cordless-Propane-Space-Heater/dp/B005EOP4JE

[longislandwrx]

Yeah I think that may be the 35k btu fixed unit, the larger is an adjustable 60k btu unit. the Battery operates the electric ignition and the blower, No thermostat, but adjustable from 30-60k btu.


I also mounted one of these near the ceiling to send some hot air back down, it can be used as just a fan or electric heater so I don't asphyxiate myself on propane fumes all day.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-ceramic-workshop-heater/p-03290285000P?sLevel=0&redirectType=SKIP_LEVEL

[RM1SepEx]

I have an 85000 btu propane convection heater and some tank ones too

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=85000+btu+propane+heater&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.X+propane+ convection+heater&_nkw=+propane+convection+heater&_sacat=0

what are you using to supply propane? 20 gallon tanks don't last long!

[bbjones121]

Do you have to vent garage for these heaters?

[longislandwrx]

Yes,

8. For indoor use only. Area must be well ventilated. Provide
minimum openings of 1/2 sq. ft. (.046 m²) near the floor
and 1/2 sq. ft. (.046 m²) near the ceiling (also see "Operating
Precautions").

I just leave the door cracked since I run the propane hose out it anyway.

[Frank818]

Mechie, just out of curiosity, what tires are you guys running in winter usually? Real summer tires, 4 seasons, or winter?

[Mechie3]

I grew up in Rochester NY and moved to Syracuse for a few years after graduation. With the 140"+ of snow a year I got used to summer tires and winter tires. All seasons are when you want to be mediocre all the time. Some years its pointless like when the Superbowl was here And it was 65 in January. Other years like this with a foot of snow in a day and big drifts it makes sense.

[AZPete]

My garage was really cold this morning so I opened both doors and soon it was nice and warm. :D


Don't hate me . . . too much.

[RM1SepEx]

Mechie, just out of curiosity, what tires are you guys running in winter usually? Real summer tires, 4 seasons, or winter?

Same as Craig here in Maine, I live by the coast, 100 inches of snow average but it varies wildly. Some years I plow 3 times others 17-18 times 4 times so far this year...

all seasons are a compromise all the time! You appreciate snow tires when you need them and let's be real your car's performance are most directly related to the tires contact with the road. All that brake work etc means zip w/o traction.

Buy winter wheels (take offs, junkyard?) and have the winter tires all mounted and balanced, easy to swap in the garage or driveway

[wleehendrick]

I grew up in Rochester NY and moved to Syracuse for a few years after graduation. With the 140"+ of snow a year I got used to summer tires and winter tires. All seasons are when you want to be mediocre all the time. Some years its pointless like when the Superbowl was here And it was 65 in January. Other years like this with a foot of snow in a day and big drifts it makes sense.

Hi Craig,

As I mentioned, I did my undergrad at U of R. The ice storm my senior year convinced me to choose UC San Diego for grad school. Haven't needed snow tires since!

I use summer tires year round here on the the 135i and Z, and plan to put a 'streetable track tire,' like Toyo R888, on my 818 since they never see cold weather. I do have 'ultra-high performance all season' tires on our Audi A4 Avant Quattro, though (this is our 'SUV'). They definitely are a compromise in both conditions, and I would never want them on a sports car, but make sense for our application, where we need a single tire to drive warm conditions locally, and provide cold weather grip for ski trips. I don't want to swap tires every time we head to the mountains and don't want to chew up snow tires on warm SoCal freeways during ski season. I've tried Pirelli PZero Nero (good grip in warm, mediocre in cold/snow, poor tread life) and currently have Continental Extreme Contact DWS (OK grip warm, very good in snow, and good tread life).

Having spent four years in Rochester, I know how to drive in snow, and the Quattro with the Contis is awesome! Never needed to put chains on, even in massive storms in the high Sierras. They don't meet my expectations for a summer tire, but that's why we have sports cars! If I lived somewhere with typical seasons, and only had to swap twice a year, I've get snow tires for the Audi, but can't justify just for a handful of ski trips, when the Contis perform well enough.

[Mechie3]

I used to travel to orange county for work every 6-8 weeks for almost 2 years. I enjoyed going on the company's dime and like the weather and atmosphere of mixed cultures, but wouldn't want to live there with my current salary. My wife's cousins live there and her parents house is 1/3 the size of ours, has no basement, neighbors are a little close, small yard, and no garage and cost $150k more than ours! I'd get frustrated really quick.


I installed the side of my fender last night. Found a new rivnut tool at Menards (I'll start a rivnut specific thread) that worked well. The manual says to use 2 bolts, I used three. 2 bolts restrains all translation and 2 rotational DOF's. The third bolt prevents the fender from rotating about the axis between the two bolts. It also pulled it tighter against the side skirt and made it look nice.

http://i.imgur.com/I9x3rRz.jpg

Here's where I cut my front bumper. I need to file it and make it pretty still. The passenger side was cut to allow clearance for the radiator as well (aftermarket radiator).

http://i.imgur.com/yUEvWNG.jpg

[wleehendrick]

The manual says to use 2 bolts, I used three. 2 bolts restrains all translation and 2 rotational DOF's. The third bolt prevents the fender from rotating about the axis between the two bolts. It also pulled it tighter against the side skirt and made it look nice.

Looks good... glad you absorbed kinematics at RIT. ;)

I'll have to remember to do the same.


I used to travel to orange county for work every 6-8 weeks for almost 2 years. I enjoyed going on the company's dime and like the weather and atmosphere of mixed cultures, but wouldn't want to live there with my current salary. My wife's cousins live there and her parents house is 1/3 the size of ours, has no basement, neighbors are a little close, small yard, and no garage and cost $150k more than ours! I'd get frustrated really quick.

We call it the sunshine tax :( We're DINKs, so it works for us, but I can't imagine trying to raise a family on one salary here.

[Mechie3]

Well, I had to remember at least 1 thing from school. ;)

We're currently DINK's with a K coming in June. We both have good jobs (hers is actually better than mine, doesn't bother me!) but even still I can't imagine paying $350k for a ranch house in a less than desirable part of town. Maybe some day.

[RM1SepEx]

I'm dating myself but... The last time I looked for a new job was 1987. I had offers for 2X the salary in CA (General Dynamics working on that ban roll on looking phalanx missile launcher) Houses were 3X the cost of Maine and any commute was a killer. I ended up working 47 miles away in Maine and kept my 2416 sq ft house on 2.5 acres... Made a deal to work 4, 12 hr shifts and carpooled. Time to go 47 miles by highway in Maine... 42 minutes. (my record was 22 minutes with my 86 FZ750) Between taxes and other costs the sunshine wasn't worth the extra salary.

Right about now with a hurting back and the damn winter cold... I'm thinking remote Arizona... The road to and from Jerome was AMAZING... perhaps a future winter locale around there somewhere.

Nice job with the body mounting Craig... I'm hoping to be up and around with questions for you soon when I do mine! I also like the riv nut thread. Th one that I bought from HF years ago is the one you just bought from Menards... I buy the inserts from McMasterCarr

[wleehendrick]

I can't imagine paying $350k for a ranch house in a less than desirable part of town. Maybe some day.

Try pricing recent construction in a nice part of SoCal! :( San Diego North County is great, more affordable than LA, OC, or closer to SD... laid back, and my commute is only 10 min. Epic driving roads and tracks are all fairly close.

Regarding body mounting with rivnuts... I assume a light threadlocker (like locktight blue) would probably be best? Wouldn't want to strip the rivnut out, but I think you'd want some sort of security.

[D Clary]

I would not use locktite on the threads of a rivnut. They have a tendency to turn in the parent material. I would use thread locker on the outside of the rivnut. If they loosen to often with the proper torque and lock washer you could always safety wire. I don't think it will be a problem .

[D Clary]

Second thought, they look like SS fasteners use antisieze if you ever want to get them off again

[flynntuna]

I'm dating myself but... The last time I looked for a new job was 1987. I had offers for 2X the salary in CA (General Dynamics working on that ban roll on looking phalanx missile launcher) Houses were 3X the cost of Maine and any commute was a killer. I ended up working 47 miles away in Maine and kept my 2416 sq ft house on 2.5 acres... Made a deal to work 4, 12 hr shifts and carpooled. Time to go 47 miles by highway in Maine... 42 minutes. (my record was 22 minutes with my 86 FZ750) Between taxes and other costs the sunshine wasn't worth the extra salary.

Right about now with a hurting back and the damn winter cold... I'm thinking remote Arizona... The road to and from Jerome was AMAZING... perhaps a future winter locale around there somewhere.

Nice job with the body mounting Craig... I'm hoping to be up and around with questions for you soon when I do mine! I also like the riv nut thread. Th one that I bought from HF years ago is the one you just bought from Menards... I buy the inserts from McMasterCarr


Small world, you probably got that offer with GD from my wife. She worked for General Dynamics hiring people from all over the country.

[metalmaker12]

I work for GDEB

[mxl]

Hello Mechie3, I really want to thank you for the super fast help you gived me, I was not expecting to have an anwser before night... I'm really sorry for the lady that ran the red light, you had a really nice machine, but at the same time it gived you the chanche to built another machine with a Subie hart, I did not know the existence of the 818 kit car, looks very cool and must light and be very fast, I see a Subie bugeye in the snowy drive way, I gess you had to get another one... to finish 25116 , Congrats!!!

[Mechie3]

I picked up that bugeye for $3k! Friend of a friend had it on facebook. I bought it sight unseen back home in NY, parents drove it halfway to Indianapolis, I met them and drove it back the other half.

[mxl]

Just be careful with that gear box, mutch, mutch weaker than your 2006, no red lines in 1st and 2nd, no lunches and no flat shifts, many friends of mine just explodes them, a co worker 3 times already, I have a JDM STI V9 2.0L with 320whp still runing my 5 speed MT (150.000km), that basically is the same and I'm a rought driver, you just have to know it's weakneses and you will be fine, but you probably already know all that... In the States can the 818 kit car be street legal? plated? or is it just a track, fun car?

[Mechie3]

Too late....I redline it just about everyday. :D I blew my 06 gearbox at 3krpms a few years back though.

Kit will be plated and street legal.

[Frank818]

I blew my 06 gearbox at 3krpms a few years back though.

How did that happen?
And don't tell me it's cuz you didn't CNC machined the gears and synchros. :)

[nkw8181]

Yea Mechie3 no custom gears??? Lol

[metalmaker12]

I have broken 02-07 wrx 5spds, and even one Sti 6spd, some honda, mustangs, and others. The worst were my Vdubs to be honest. It is how you drive, if you launch most cars a lot, you will eventually break something. I actually think for the power (torque) the subies put down, there pretty decent and for such a light car should be solid. The problem with them is there finicky to work on and get just right, were most others are easy. The minute I put a mod on a vw I blew the tranny apart, no matter the years or styles, but pretty simple to get back together.

[Mechie3]

Did't get too much done since I only got to work on Sunday. Friday was my 5th anniversary, Saturday was spent with the wife, Sunday noon was changing a wheel bearing on the envoy. Finally...Sunday afternoon was 818 time!

If you get the Spyder Auto headlights, you might need to trim the headlight buckets. There's a groove on the bottom of the bucket I had to almost completely cut out. I also cut a little clearance on the side near where the headlight side mounting point is. On page 337 of my manual, it actually shows the buckets already cut out this way.

Took a quite a bit of time to fit the first light. I would fit it, mark it, cut a small spot, fit it, mark it, cut, repeat. Tried to cut as little as possible. Once I saw the pattern of the first bucket the second bucket was done in 10 minutes. Cutting made lots of dust, so when I put the light back in and wiggled it, I could see where the dust was disturbed and cut out that part.

I'm going to open up the headlights and try to retrofit TSX projectors and lenses. I did this on my 06 WRX and loved it. Think I'm going to paint the shroud around the low beam lens silver. As is, with all that black, it sort of gets lost.

Got the fenders all bolted to the side body and everything lined up pretty well. Hood was a bit tight, but the fenders were flexible enough to easily space them out. Only the front hood pins are installed. I need to make spacers for the rear hood pins and made fender supports. The bumper/fender/hood junction is a little funky. I removed the under bucket support and had to push the headlights down to make the fender and bumper line up. Once the fender and front bumper support is added you can push up on the underside front of the bucket to make the gap between the bumper and headlight disappear.

Underneath buckets:
http://i.imgur.com/UZS0yA5.jpg?1

Headlight. You can see how it looks a bit like a black pit. I'd like to accentuate the projector like a Carrera GT.
http://i.imgur.com/no8Zh4U.jpg?1

Hood pinned down:
http://i.imgur.com/w3obspA.jpg?1

[Mechie3]

https://vimeo.com/84042208

Video. You can see how many times I had to fit, trim, fit, trim, repeat on the headlight bucket the first time.

[C.Plavan]

Looking great!

[Frank818]

As is, with all that black, it sort of gets lost.


Headlight. You can see how it looks a bit like a black pit. I'd like to accentuate the projector like a Carrera GT.

That's cuz you didn't get the Halo ones. The Halo ones have, well the halos around the projectors, so it doesn't get much lost.
I agree about all that black.

[nkw8181]

Nice! Something tells me I will be reading your build tread a "few" times as I build. Thanks for the great documentation and for being a trailblazer.

[mxl]

Wow!!! What an awsome project, really has an agressive look... it' looking really, really nice.

[mxl]

I do not think that in Canada/Quebec it would be possible to have it steet legal (plated), with a custom made frame... it would be a very nice project to do once a have my one garage, i'm a boilermaker of trade (but I don't do boilers)...

[Frank818]

I do not think that in Canada/Quebec it would be possible to have it steet legal (plated), with a custom made frame... it would be a very nice project to do once a have my one garage, i'm a boilermaker of trade (but I don't do boilers)...

Are you from QC? Cuz there are FFR cars around and they are plated and insured. And I will do just the same to mine. :) Just follow my thread. :)

[mxl]

What is the estimated height of your machine once all finish?

[mxl]

Are you from QC? Cuz there are FFR cars around and they are plated and insured. And I will do just the same to mine. :) Just follow my thread. :)

Hello, ok for sure I will read your thread... so you are near Montreal? Un gros salut!!! I'm from Montreal...

[Scargo]

I found something that I will want to try and seems to be the bee's knees!:cool: There was a Trans-AM car that was using furniture levelers (http://www.allglides.com/swlegadtynba.html) on hex standoffs (http://www.grainger.com/category/hex-standoffs/spacers-and-standoffs/fasteners/ecatalog/N-8ni#nav=%2Fcategory%2Fhex-standoffs%2Fspacers-and-standoffs%2Ffasteners%2Fecatalog%2FN-8niZ1z0o3qoZ1z0o41yZ1z13ezf%3F_%3D1389635864093) to provide support and vertical alignment for the body panels.
25188
Rather than just relying on a few pin bosses, you can have as many supports as you want and then internal and external pins or Dzus fasteners to provide horizontal alignment and retention.
You install rivnuts in the tubing wherever desired (perhaps without the standoff) and eliminate the need for dangling tabs, fixed support points, shim blocks, etc.

I do not recommend the Auveco brand of rivnut tool and rivnuts. Can anyone recommend a good brand of rivnuts?

[Mechie3]

Finally got my fenders and hood fully aligned and mounted how I like them. If I read the directions right and I'm not missing parts, FFR doesn't give you any way to mount or support the upper rear of the fender. You mount the bottom rear where it touches the side panel, the front corner of the fender well, the front inside edge near the headlight and the front corner where it meets the bumper and hood. I took an idea from Metalmaker and made supports. The steel piece was supplied by FFR. Later chassis don't have this steel piece as they fixed the mount on the frame. Anyone with the mount already there can make a 1 piece standoff with the upper support.

The top support isn't quite right, but wasn't bad for a guess. I have dimensions to make a better one tonight. The standoffs have a small section on the bottom that nest in the holes in the frame mount and the hood pin mount. This makes it much easier to align even though I'm only using a 3/8" bolt and not a 1/2" bolt (holes in the steel are 1/2" from FFR). I didn't make holes in the top piece to begin with either (except for the 3/8" bolt). I lined it up, drilled through the fender and upper piece at the same time, then tapped it. Easier than pre-tapping the block and then trying to make marks and line up the fender and holes.

Where the headlight and bumper mount to the frame it says to use a 1/4-20 and a lock nut. I don't want to be fiddling with an allen key and a wrench each time I want to remove something so I inserted rivnuts instead. Now it can be removed with 1 tool with easy top access. The headlight could use an insert to help secure it. The flange of the bolt given isn't big enough to capture the entire top of the opening and the threaded portion is too small. A little washer dropped inside would help center everything. Because the fender positions the headlight, I didn't follow FFR's instructions to drill the hole. They have you remove the fender, drill, and then bolt. The headlight moves when the fender is removed. With the fender completely bolted down I used a clamp to clamp the headlight tap and bumper to the front frame. When I remove the fender, the headlight stayed put. I drilled the hole then. When I removed the clamp the headlight tab moved over 1/2".


The fender is currently rock solid with the rear support. I can grab it and it doesn't flex or creak.

The support:
http://i.imgur.com/bCsHyYz.jpg?1

Installed:
http://i.imgur.com/lRgWi21.jpg?1

With fender. The top part will be altered to allow two bolts to hold the fender.
http://i.imgur.com/V1XqVOH.jpg?1

Headlight rivnuts:
http://i.imgur.com/AEVIiVv.jpg?1

[longislandwrx]

Installed:
http://i.imgur.com/lRgWi21.jpg?1


Cool hardtop bro!

[Mechie3]

Shhhhh!

[Frank818]

Later chassis don't have this steel piece as they fixed the mount on the frame.

The support:
http://i.imgur.com/bCsHyYz.jpg?1

So that support is not required on chassis built from now (a little while back) on?

[Mechie3]

So that support is not required on chassis built from now (a little while back) on?

Not 100% sure. You won't need the long steel piece that the hood pin bolts too, but I don't know if FFR supplies a support for the fender.

[Mechie3]

Here's the modified fender support. The old one is the blocky one. The fender lip ended up being slighly offset from the main mounting bolt. With the old one, Ihad to rotate it and only one side lined up. The new one has the fender lip mounting points offset from center so I can get two holes in the fender and support.

http://i.imgur.com/RhdrjJ9.jpg?2

Fender pulled back to show the part installed. Still need to drill and tap holes.
http://i.imgur.com/lAwAHsX.jpg?2



New shift lever to attach to transmission. You can see how it aligns the with OEM/FFR setup and how much space it saves you.
http://i.imgur.com/obXOZWK.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/U6qkwRq.jpg?2

Lever installed. This is with the shift rod pulled all the way back. The FFR setup touches the rear bumper, the machined one has ~1.5" of clearance. These pics also show why I have to change the cable mount. The in/out cable is adjusted all the way towards the front of the car and it doesn't line up with the ball stud on the mount (because it too moved back ~1.3"). The lower ball receiver fits fine, just needed to be rotated 180 degrees.

http://i.imgur.com/KzqRRoq.jpg?2
http://i.imgur.com/NJ48LWI.jpg?1

There's three paths to take.
1: Leave the lower cable as is, cut off the mounting tab for the upper cable and make a new partial mount that relocates only the upper cable (would bolt onto the FFR cable mount)

2: Instead of modifying the FFR cable mount, make a completely new one. This will let me move the entire assembly inwards another inch or so, get more slack in the cable assemblies for routing (the lower cable is tight), and be more compact. It will also pull the entire shift assembly in front of the rearmost chassis tube allowing for a bumper frame to be added there.

3: Make a side by side linkage like used in the TR42. Super compact, frees up lots of space, looks cool, much more complicated to design. Potentially cheaper in the end as the FFR mount is rather big. Getting a piece of steel laser cut, bent, and welded would cost as much as a smaller machined aluminum piece.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJZiZfE_IoE&feature=player_embedded

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=37668170&postcount=1023

More than likely I'll go path 1 and 2 for now. I'll see what the cost is for path 1 and path 2 and see what's affordable to offer. Later on after the car is on the road I'll make path 3 a longer term project.

[nkw8181]

Nice! You know you need to start a page with all the parts you're offering or will be!

[Mechie3]

I made a facebook page and put a cover picture on it..... That's about as far as I got. :o

[Frank818]

Never short of CNC ideas... this guy keeps drilling and grinding and cutting. :D
And building!

[Canadian818]

Big fan of #3 idea, however 1&2 will still be 100% better than the FFR design. Obviously cost was their limiting factor. Although they should consider offering to sell your parts as options.

[Mechie3]

Cost was definitely the reason. Much cheaper to laser cut and bend a piece then to machine aluminum. Material costs would be lower too.

[Santiago]

Option #2!!!

If you can squeeze another inch of clearance out of the mod (for 2.5" total gained) that would be great! Like Plavan, I'm planning on a rear bumper bar, but having that much more room before anything makes contact w/the shifter or trans would be much safer. The more the merrier.

Of all the stuff you've come up with on this car, this is by far my favorite. A "must have" product, so I'm looking forward to its final development.

Best,
-j

[Xusia]

The higher the number (1, 2, 3) the better the solution. Here's hoping #3 doesn't take you too long. Otherwise I'll have to design my own (and it won't be as good)...

[RM1SepEx]

there is no reason to not attach his bracket farther up the shifting shaft. Bore a larger Dia. hole and slide it on, drill in place, cut off the extra shaft, poof an extra inch for you...

[Mechie3]

You could do that too. I guess I was too stuck on finding a drop in direct replacement solution. Since that won't work anyways (see #1) and we all have drills, #2 might be the best option, move it up on the shaft (iff possible, need to check bolt head clearance), make the side bracket even smaller and thus less expensive.


hmm...

This is why I build so slow. hahaha!

[07FIREBLADE]

And this is why I'm starting my build after you. ;)

[nkw8181]

hmmm at this rate my build my be done before you and I haven't got it yet!! lol but then I'll have to go back and change all the things that you do after. :)