Mechie3's 818S

[RM1SepEx]

for example:

My gas tank was correct at # 17... :-) no pounding in the point to get it to fit! yea...

when we ID'ed the LCA bushing issue they initiated the fix on every car that was in house, so I'm not sure where (serial #?) that fix was implemented...

As we identify issues they will fix them, it will be much easier soon!

[RM1SepEx]

Mechie3

Likely. Joe said he would mail me a bracket as well as some bolts where the manual calls for 4 bolts of a certain size in 2 different assemblies, but the BOM only shows 2 total.


more information please!

[Mechie3]

I think it was the front shocks. It called for a 2" long bolt, but all I had were some 2.25". I don't know what those 2.25" go to, so I used them for now. The rear shock mount on the hub end calls for the same bolts, but the packing list says there were only 2 total in the kit. For the bracket, Joe said he shipped me a new bracket. It's not here yet, but I'll test it when I get it.

[RM1SepEx]

So when I go to mount my shocks I'll be missing bolts and will have to call them and wait to get them... When something like that happens they should be sending pkgs to all of us... There are several places where the bolts don't match or don't exist and we have been paying for them out of pocket... Those issue should have been IDed during the first builds and resolved before out kits went out... Or when they are IDed after we should all get care pkgs and updated instructions

[metalmaker12]

The bolt sizes in the build book do not really match what we have exactly on all accounts. I just used what seemed correct, but at some point I may realize I have to make some changes. It is something that should have been sorted out a bit better, but nothing major

[Mechie3]

I've been trying to keep track. These are all I can think of:

Shocks: not enough 2" long bolts (though there is a 2.25", not sure where it goes)
Brake MC: Bolts not long enough
Pedal box: 5/16" bolts were hex head, not flange button head
Bolts for Passenger side steering rack: Not long enough

I don't know if theyre sending things out to everyone or what. I'm short a bunch of other parts too that are due tomorrow. Springs, fuel line, coolant adapters, and other random things.

[metalmaker12]

Yea I am without the adapters and fuel tank vent, and other things on my backordered list.

[Xusia]

Those issue should have been IDed during the first builds...

LOL! I hate to break it to you, dude, but that's you!! And THANK YOU for identifying all the stuff for the rest of us! :)

[Wayne Presley]

Front lower shock bolts are 2", rear lower are 2.25 and you have two of each in the BOB (box o bolts).

[metalmaker12]

Yea, I got those right woohoo lol

[Mechie3]

Front lower shock bolts are 2", rear lower are 2.25 and you have two of each in the BOB (box o bolts).

That makes more sense. Page 137 of the manual says it's a 2.0" as does the CAD model on page 120. Guess those need to be updated.

I didn't have calipers with me last night, but using a tape measure I got the centerline to the bottom of the driver side mounting tabs on the steering rack to be 1.375". My block for the passenger side was 1.5 something inches. I'm going to shave off the bottom by .125" and see how that fits.

Video from Tuesday finished uploading. Had to use the usb power cable which doesn't let me use the go pro housing, so the angles are a bit benign without very good views.

http://vimeo.com/72411200

[Mechie3]

Here's the updates to my steering bracket drawing. I haven't tried it out yet, but will tonight.

http://i.imgur.com/OXecktQ.png

[Mechie3]

I've always wanted a cool looking alternator. Since my motor isn't ready to go in yet anyways I figure I might as well "waste" more time prettying things up. Painted with legitimate WRB paint and clearcoated. Center portion painted in black. Replaced rusty hardware (had to drill out 4 of the screws) with stainless. Now to see if it still works when I plug it back in...

http://i.imgur.com/qUoV14E.jpg

[Frank818]

Jesus, that looks awesome!! :)

That WRB paint works on all parts like Calipers, head, manifold, tranny housing, etc.?

[Goldwing]

Very nice! I've been trying to decide which parts to pretty up from the donor. I didn't even think of this!

[Mechie3]

Jesus, that looks awesome!! :)

That WRB paint works on all parts like Calipers, head, manifold, tranny housing, etc.?

No idea. It's just automotive paint in a rattle can I bought to touch up my bumper. I never ended up touching up my bumper but I did paint several hot wheels cars and my valve covers. Valve covers are now 4 years old without paint chips. Clear coat is required. I used to use some really nice dupont clearcoat, but it got used up. All i have now is rustoleum clear. Not sure how well it'll hold up.


I used this how to to figure out how to get it apart. I didn't unsolder the wires. i had enough length of wire that I could move the winding enough to get to the third screw holding on the back. Skip halfway down to the disassembly portion. Yes, it's a mitsubishi alternator on a Subaru. lol.

http://www.stealth316.com/2-alt-rebuild.htm

I did need to use a press. The front housing is lightly pressed onto a bearing. The bearing had light surface rust and didn't want to play nice.

[Frank818]

Ok good to know!

[metalmaker12]

Calm down frank, i know you want to get a good post count, lol, it does look nice true, but very doable if you want to
Personal I am boring and like the stock silver look, but the blue with the stainless screws are nice

[Mechie3]

Just test fit the modified block shown in post 262. It fits much better with the lower height. Still might change the centerline offset to be less for a final version.

[metalmaker12]

Must be nice

[RM1SepEx]

find an old bridgeport or a lesser mill. for garage use you don't need a digital readout (DRO)... I have several friends with mills of varied capability up to one with CNC capability... he's a bit out there has his own dyno too

[Mechie3]

I'd like to be "a bit out there" someday. Lol

[skullandbones]

Nice job on the alternator. I like that color. If the rest of the engine is done like that it should be a show piece. Have done the alternators like that and is a lot of work for what you get. Good luck on the rest of the project. WEK.

[Mechie3]

It wasn't that much work, though it wasnt a quick job. Took 4 lunch breaks more or less. My valve covers are the same color, intake manifold is black. I think its the small things that add up into something greater than the sum of its parts.

[Mechie3]

For those that may have noticed, I haven't given any updates in quite some time. In was busy traipsing my way across bits of Asia the past couple weeks with my wife. As of now I'm in an airport again on my way to solo nationals. So, the only update I have is that my seats arrived the Friday before I left. Comfy, not too snug, and FIA homologated.
http://i.imgur.com/hrUMB4I.jpg

[RM1SepEx]

Good luck at Nats!

[JeromeS13]

I was just thinking about those seats last night... Whenever you have a moment, would you mind measuring the distance from the harness openings to the floor and from the openings to the top of the cushion?

Thanks!

[metros]

I was thinking about those seats the other day as well and wondering how they worked out for you.

You're going to have to post your height/weight so that we know if snug to you means "no way, fatass" to me.

Good luck at nationals.

[Mechie3]

I'm 6' 1/2", 34" waist, 195 lbs. I can measure when I get home.

[FFR-ADV]

Those BiMarco Futura's look like nice seats. Are you using the stock 818 gas tank, Boyd's or the upcoming Big/Tall tank from FFR? I am looking forward to seeing how this works out as I am similar size. Congrats on your 818 progress!

Cheers!

[Mechie3]

Stock tank. Just came inside from placing a seat in the car. I've been too tired to do anything besides clear all the boxes off the car (made room to part the mini inside while we were gone) and put a bracket on the seat and test fit it.

Harnesses: Not sure where to mount these. The R has a separate harness bar welded in. I might make something to bolt to the seatbelt tabs from left-right and the center X like a harness bar in a car. I think the square tubing might be too low for a harness.

Height: My head seems to clear, but it's close. With a helmet it might not, but I need to get a level to check. The seat is currently on the lowest setting in the rear and the second lowest in front (slight backwards angle). The bracket is a three piece design with a lower angle piece, then two side bolt on arms that bolt onto the side of the seat. if I make this a one piece design or invert the angle (currently angles in, could make it angle out) I could make new holes in the arms and lower it a little bit more, but not much.

http://i.imgur.com/jN6NjCP.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/ayFNZ3Y.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/cCZNwYE.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/Vl5GQ3T.jpg?1

[wleehendrick]

I'm interested to see what you come up with regarding the harness bar... look at it as an opportunity to design/sell a solution to the rest of us wanting to put a 5/6 point in an S! I noticed that the harness slots in the BiMarcos appear a bit higher in the seat back than typical... perhaps the squarebar would work with other seats.

BTW, I see you're a bit over 6"... how's the reach to the pedals with the standard tank in place?

Thanks,

Lee

[Mechie3]

BTW, I see you're a bit over 6"... how's the reach to the pedals with the standard tank in place?

Thanks,

Lee

Yeah, I'm a bit over six inches tall. ;)

My knees are bent, but not uncomfortable. I prefer sitting close to the pedals anyways. With the clutch pedal fully depressed my leg is not quite fully extended (hard to tell as no MC's are hooked up to know where actual travel is). It's quite close to how I sit in the mini or WRX.

[metalmaker12]

Nice seats, I am running kirkeys

[wleehendrick]

Yeah, I'm a bit over six inches tall. ;)

Oops... 21312




My knees are bent, but not uncomfortable. I prefer sitting close to the pedals anyways. With the clutch pedal fully depressed my leg is not quite fully extended (hard to tell as no MC's are hooked up to know where actual travel is). It's quite close to how I sit in the mini or WRX.

Good to hear... that's my preference as well (leg slightly bent when clutch fully depressed). Since I'm about an inch shorter that you, I'm optimistic that the standard tank will be fine for me.

[Mechie3]

After a three week hiatus I found time between church, dinner, and a jet lag nap to do a little bit of work on Sunday. When I pounded in the gas tank so it would fit, it created a wrinkle that I wasn't happy with. To fix this, I cut out a pie slice, lined up the edges, and welded it back together. Mostly uneventful until I accidentally kicked the pedal control from 80 amps to 150 amps. Couldn't figure out why my welds went from not bad to instant hole burning. Did a leak test and painted the exposed metal.

https://vimeo.com/74079344

[wallace18]

If you need another tank I have one.

[Mechie3]

Thanks. The one I welded seems to be fine. Though, I'm not sure I want to ever find out it isn't. :eek: Last night I decided I probably want to mount a fire extinguisher beneath the passenger seat front.

[Mechie3]

Installed the gas pedal, clutch master, steering column, and made a template for a custom heatshield to separate the back side of the gas tank from the engine bay. Nothing fancy, just some sheet aluminum, but I feel better knowing there's a barrier between the headers and the tank.

https://vimeo.com/74190037

[Wayne Presley]

Installed the gas pedal, clutch master, steering column, and made a template for a custom heatshield to separate the back side of the gas tank from the engine bay. Nothing fancy, just some sheet aluminum, but I feel better knowing there's a barrier between the headers and the tank.

https://vimeo.com/74190037

Looking good, I put a heat shield in on my car between the headers and tank also.

[D Clary]

What do you lubricate the rack with? Without the ps fluid do you use a heavy oil, and how do you keep it in? Just curious so I can get ahead on mine.

[RM1SepEx]

some grease on the end bushings, the oil wasn't for lube it was to "assist" moving the rack

[Mechie3]

Just grease. I cut the entire piston out so there's less drag and wear and then packed the pinion and lubed the end bushings.

[Mechie3]

13th day of work. Finished mocking up my rear gas tank heat shield, mounted the radiator subframe, set the radiator in place (need to find the rubber mounts) and bolted on the gas tank.

https://vimeo.com/74259750

[RM1SepEx]

Just grease. I cut the entire piston out so there's less drag and wear and then packed the pinion and lubed the end bushings.

I removed the seal and left the piston, little to no friction w/o the rubber seal

Did you leave access to the left rear corner of the gas tank area? you need some access there for the brake and clutch lines to run.... or you could just run them outside vs cutting the corner...

I may need to provide something for mine protecting the fuel tanks too, I'm a bit concerned about that area...

[Mechie3]

Did you leave access to the left rear corner of the gas tank area? you need some access there for the brake and clutch lines to run.... or you could just run them outside vs cutting the corner...

I did cut it away some to clear the trailing link arm. Might need to cut it some more for the brakes. I haven't permanently mounted it yet. Thanks for the heads up though.

[Mechie3]

Day two passes with minimal work on the car at the wife's request I not work on the car tonight. Grrr....

I did get some stuff done during lunch. I can't find the original rubber mounts for the bottom of the radiator. Aside from that, the subframe is too low so the radiator hose interferes with the steering rack bellows (as the other builders have found). I took the rubber bushing that gets removed from the shifter assembly and made an aluminum standoff to mount it on. The standoff fits in the original mount hole and will have a nut that threads onto the bottom to hold it in place.

http://i.imgur.com/H6ASrpQ.jpg?1

You can see my aluminum steering rack mount here too.
http://i.imgur.com/SqYmIkc.jpg?1

[Frank818]

You had to build an alu steering rack mount?
FFR or donor was not providing any?

[Mechie3]

They provided a steel bracket and two aluminum spacers. At first the bracket didn't fit but FFR sent an updated version. I decided to forgo all of that and make my own integrated unit.

[Frank818]

Well it looks very nice! You seem to be an excellent alu worker. :)
Let us know if you ever decide to sell them (or other alu parts) to the community. :)

[Mechie3]

I'm still trying to find cost effective ways to produce parts. Using the machines at work for personal profit is a gray area with potential for getting fired if someone sees it differently than me. I don't have a personal shop to fit a CNC in so I'm stuck out sourcing.

[RM1SepEx]

nice rad standoffs!

[metalmaker12]

You suck. Lol sweet, make me both and I will make your exhaust and send it to you

[RM1SepEx]

did either of you get your front swaybar mounts to work? Mine bolted to the donor at a 30 degree down angle on both sides. I cut and straightened it and the holes are too close together on my mount. Tony told me his wagon donor had a bolt on one end and a slot tab on the other.

[Racebrewer]

Nice job on the mounts. Did your posted dimensions on the rack mount work out?

Thanks,
John

[Frank818]

Using the machines at work for personal profit is a gray area with potential for getting fired if someone sees it differently than me.

Well I can assure you we, here, are all seeing it the same way you do, so that's a good start! loll

But seriously yeah, I didn't know it was machine at work. Very touchy situation.

[Mechie3]

did either of you get your front swaybar mounts to work? Mine bolted to the donor at a 30 degree down angle on both sides. I cut and straightened it and the holes are too close together on my mount. Tony told me his wagon donor had a bolt on one end and a slot tab on the other.

Didn't try yet. I know my rear swaybar mounts were aftermarket, but don't remember if the sheet metal tab over the top was stock or not.


Nice job on the mounts. Did your posted dimensions on the rack mount work out?

Thanks,
John

The second dimensions are what I used. The rack seemed a little high on the aluminum bracket side still as when I bolted it down, it lifted the other end up. I was able to tighten both sides without it bending or binding up. I might take a little more off the bottom.


Well I can assure you we, here, are all seeing it the same way you do, so that's a good start! loll

But seriously yeah, I didn't know it was machine at work. Very touchy situation.

They're cool with engineers using the machines for any and all personal work, which is awesome. It's just when you start to profit and you aren't paying for broken cutters, fluids, electricity, that it's sketchy. Some say that there's enough G-jobs (government jobs, aka personal work) done that I couldn't possibly outdo all that the inexperienced people break. Others see it more black and white.

[Mechie3]

Made the nuts for the standoffs. Unfortunately the pins on the radiator are off by about .125". Doh! In other news I learned to weld aluminum tonight so it might be an easier fix.
http://i.imgur.com/GPjlMTQ.jpg

[Mechie3]

Had a productive lunch break today. Cut 2.00" out of the middle of the oil dip stick tube. The cutting fixture also doubles as a little jig to tack weld it back together to make sure it's straight and concentric. After it's welded I'll ream out the inside to ensure it's smooth. I need to design and machine a new pull for the dip stick and shorten it's effective length by 2" as well.

http://i.imgur.com/rk0YcXH.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/esRxu26.jpg?1

[Mechie3]

Welded the oil dip stick tube back together. It actually welded up really nice with a nice small even bead. It was slightly concave though and I wanted it so I could grind it down and have it look like it was never modified. Bad idea. The 5 minutes it took to weld a clean bead turned into 30 minutes of welding, grinding, and fighting an odd contaminant that would create a bubble and require more grinding, more welding. Meh...I stopped caring after 30 minutes that it was smooth.

Before:
http://i.imgur.com/2DfXM0w.jpg?1

After:
http://i.imgur.com/pTS8D9w.jpg?1

Here's the nipple I welded up on the crossover tube. It used to connect to the throttle body which connected to the steel tube I welded earlier. I used to just loop the aluminum and steel nipples together but decided that since I have a welder now I can delete another hose, two clamps, and clean it up a bit.

http://i.imgur.com/cMQ925W.jpg?1

[longislandwrx]

cool, I haven't messed with the steel lines yet but I did drill tap and plug that crossover. very nice. every ounce counts.

[Mechie3]

Yeah...the ounces. ;) lol. I'm doing it more for the bling. I remember seeing my first modified subaru in person and how messy and terrible the engine bay looked. The ounces are a side benefit to making it look nice and neat. :D

[longislandwrx]

your pms are full... do you know where the post that showed your steel lines went?

NM... post 135. thanks.

[Mechie3]

I deleted some messages. I'm a moderator on two other forums so I get used to a 1000pm limit and forget to empty my other ones.

Post #135:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?9077-Mechie3-s-818S&p=110771&viewfull=1#post110771

[RM1SepEx]

Jealous.. I didn't put ANY effort into this area and my engine bay will be UGLY...

[Samiam1017]

Craig by eliminating the coolant line to the throttle body does that effect the IAC? And can the IAC be removed?

[Wayne Presley]

Craig by eliminating the coolant line to the throttle body does that effect the IAC? And can the IAC be removed?

You can remove the coolant line but there is no reason to remove the IAC. The coolant line keeps the the TB from icing and sticking in cool climates.

[Mechie3]

I removed the coolant line when the car was my DD in upstate NY. It never stuck. Also since my car is dbw it doesn't have the IACV.

[longislandwrx]

ditch the lines, keep the iac, you will get idle surge without it.

[Xusia]

OK, I just hit acronym bingo. IAC? IACV? dbw? Help! :)

[THE ITALIAN]

WTF = "why the fuss?"
I am lost also on those, V8 guy. I skip over those informative threads, too many to remember.
Too many assist parts assisting other parts & functions that assist some other small functions that if were not in place, would stop the functioning engine.
I need a decoder list on my CMS=computer monitor screen

I know what TB is !! got one of those injections the other day - does CC mean anything to you, got one in an email, is it Crab Comb? got one of those also.





Yes I know what they mean-just trying to see if any of you guys take a break. Took me a while to learn all those. I'm one of those guys in the garage that would hand you a diaper when you ask for 3/4 while under the car, then walk away drinking a beer

[Samiam1017]

Thanks guys. Back on topic. Great build.

[Mechie3]

Lol.

IAC=IACV= Idle air control valve

[Wayne Presley]

Idle Air Control, Idle Air Control Valve, Drive By Wire

[Mechie3]

Tried putting the motor back together. Last bolt on the water cross over decides to strip out. Rather than just mucking up the threads, it actually pulled a good 1/4" of thread out cleanly. I'm guessing it had debris in the button but when I checked it later it went in fine. I'll helicoil it tonight.

Did manage to get new filters, o-rings, and seals on teh injectors and took the back of the trans off. No luck getting off the nut without some way to hold everything.

Made a new handle for when I cut down the dipstick. Still need to slot it and make holes for a roll pin to secure the stick itself. Yes...it is titanium. Why? Well, I could say something fancy about wear properties, anti corrosion, or low thermal transfer but the truth is it looks pretty. Ha!

http://i.imgur.com/S7XWkic.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/Z0O83fp.jpg?1

[Frank818]

Just amazing.

[wleehendrick]

Yes...it is titanium. Why? Well, I could say something fancy about wear properties, anti corrosion, or low thermal transfer but the truth is it looks pretty. Ha!


Gotta love Titanium! I just got back from Zion Canyon this weekend and put some new light-weight gear to the test spending two days hiking through the Narrows top-down. Watched the arms on my brand new Ti stove (http://www.snowpeak.com/stoves/backpacking/litemax-titanium-stove-gst-120.html) develop that sexy blue coloration while boiling water for freeze-dried lasagna... awesome material!

[Mechie3]

Done! Cut a .025" slot, made two holes, measured the dip stick, cut it down, made two matching holes, hammered in some roll pins, ground off the ends, deburred it, and checked. I'm within about .020" measuring where the stick comes out of the tube vs the non modified one. :notbad: :D

http://i.imgur.com/LId8SWO.jpg?1

[Frank818]

Definitely I wish you could sell copies of all your CNC parts to other builders. :D

So what else on the plans, now? :)

[Mechie3]

Still need to finish my alternator mount, modify the silicone turbo inlet (needs to be longer to clear fuel line fitting), top brackets for the radiator, a mount for a wing. Thinking of a bracket underneath the trunk that attaches to the frame with a pin that sticks up. The wing mounts to the trunk, but gets attached to the pin. That way loads are transferred to the frame, not the fiberglass, but it's easy enough to still open the trunk.

[Frank818]

Nice list! Keep up the work there.

[Mechie3]

Pressed in 1/4-20 PEM nuts on the firewall. I had planned to rivet these together, so there's are more holes than necessary if using 1/4" screws. I didn't want to have empty holes and I had enough PEM's so I just used them all.

http://i.imgur.com/1ypcq94.jpg?1

[metalmaker12]

Do you plan on blowing the car up, lol enough pm nuts?

[Mechie3]

Got the fuel tank fully bolted in, pump and level sender installed (pump didn't want to fit) and the firewall bolted up. Originally I was going to rivet it together as FFR suggests, but others had decided to make it removable and I thought that was a good idea.

https://vimeo.com/75126467

[RM1SepEx]

It is a PITA to wiggle in that pump and that big sock isn't it! Lucky we only use 1 rivet to hold the assy together to kind of fold it into place! I just found out my fuel filler tube was wrong! Can you shoot a photo of your filler tube?

[longislandwrx]

even in time lapse looks like the pump was fighting you! nice job on the firewall. nuts/screws seem to be the way to go, it would stink having to drill out all those rivets.

[Mechie3]

I think mine is the same as yours.

http://i.imgur.com/giF8SIS.jpg

For the pump I had 2 issues. Folding the sock wasn't terrible, but the submersible fuel line as supplied was too long. The sock/pump bottomed out and I couldn't seat it on the gasket. Second issue was I couldn't get the screw head on the band clamp to fit in the hole. I ended up having to slightly bend the metal where the alignment tabs go (not the locking tabs on the lock ring, the alignment tabs on the housing). Then, when I had to cut off some of the hose, I had to pull it out and start all over again.

[RM1SepEx]

yup, same as mine, ask for the correct one...

I found that I had to rock the sender to get it in and one particular tab had to go in before the other. Mine worked fine with the 4 inch hose. And yes mine went in more than once too!

[Mechie3]

I have a walbro pump too, so it's not stock. It is a stock location pump, but I'm not sure if the diameter is slightly larger and slightly longer or not. I think I only cut off 3/8" of hose. Not much, but enough that it wouldn't go in.

[Mechie3]

Pizza's in the oven while the go pro is chatging. I'll have a video later.

My helpers:
http://i.imgur.com/KSWSoZe.jpg?1

They dozed off a while. Pebbles (brown/white) decided he didn't like chains and clanging (he's a bit timid) so he ran inside to watch from the doorway. Boba (boston terrier) just slept and would occasionally give me a "huh..what was that?" sleepy look. lol.

http://i.imgur.com/dlX6poL.jpg?1

Here's the cart my transmission has sat on for a year. It worked well to line up the engine and trans and flip everything to pick it up again. I used a 2x2 under the motor mounts to keep the oil pan and heads from contacting anything.

http://i.imgur.com/dIh741o.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/SLSvJzH.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/kopo0nP.jpg?1

[Mechie3]

The best part of the night. Motor and transmission are in! Whoever designed engine hoists with casters in the rear and two non caster wheels in front deserve to be slapped. If I had four casters it'd be cake. As is, I had to fight it and constantly lift two of the wheels in/out of the garage since I didn't have enough room.

http://i.imgur.com/NJCAkfa.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/XFsRRcp.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/M329fb2.jpg?1

[Frank818]

Theses buckets are awesome!!! For dogs... lolll
Nah seriously they are, Bimarco Futura?

On a side note, the IM of the subarus, espacially the 4cyl, always remind me of a spider. loll

[Mechie3]

Yes, Bimarco Futura. FYI, the aluminum seat brackets they sell won't work without adding a plate or making your own base. They're a 3 piece design. 2 pieces bolt to the side of the seat which then bolt to a third angle channel. The angle channel needs to be about an inch longer to be able to bolt to the X brace without the bolt being too close to the edge.

This is my favorite video. I laughed watching the dog's, especially when Pebbles decided to run inside.

https://vimeo.com/75180423

[Wayne Presley]

The best part of the night. Motor and transmission are in! Whoever designed engine hoists with casters in the rear and two non caster wheels in front deserve to be slapped. If I had four casters it'd be cake. As is, I had to fight it and constantly lift two of the wheels in/out of the garage since I didn't have enough room.

http://i.imgur.com/NJCAkfa.jpg?1




If you swing the tail of the trans out about a foot, it drops in easier.

[Mechie3]

Not sure what you mean by swing it out.

My main problem was I couldn't move the engine hoist. The front wheels aren't casters so I have to make wide sweeping arcs in order to move the front wheels to get anything to line up. In doing that, the rear wheels of the hoist would leave the garage and fall down the 3/4"lip, then I'd have to lift the entire thing back up. All the while, the front wheels barely went anywhere. It lined up well, I just needed to move it all forware, but the hoist was at a 45 degree angle to the car. If I had casters on the front I would have just slid the whole thing forward quite easily.

[Wayne Presley]

Swing it out off of centerline

[freds]

If you swing the tail of the trans out about a foot, it drops in easier.

I used a different approach. I have a 1 ton chain hoist hanging from a decent beam (That I had to put in when I added an apartment over my garage).
I slung the engine and transmission from that.
I inched the chassis (which is on a dolly with casters on all four corners) using a come-along (for delicate control...not for pulling power)
That way i could get it in by myself without any drama.
Reasonably inexpensive and I also use the chain hoist to load/unload any heavy "stuff" as I can back my truck into the garage under the chain hoist.

The most important part of the job is slinging the engine assembly properly!

21735
217322173321734

[Mechie3]

Didn't get a whole lot done tonight. Took my dogs for a walk then my wife's co-worker brought over her dog so we can watch her for 2 weeks. My dogs are both ~17 lbs, hers is a 60+lb american bulldog. Had to watch them to make sure they acclimated ok again.

Did manage to make a new arbor for my tubing beader (which is a modified harbor freight tubing cutter) at work and bead the coolant tubes. Early kit builders got 50" tubes, but they should be 42". After cutting it down, I put a bead back on it. The material is 6061 aluminum so it tends to crack when bent/formed.
http://i.imgur.com/voOBcnn.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/quUjCZS.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/uoeAM5h.jpg?1

To get the rubber coolant adapters on I first removed the small sleeve, then crushed the remaining thick sleeve and large outer sleeve together. You'll hear it pop. I then used a jack handle to push out the thick sleeve. This presses on rather easily with minimal grunting. I then squirted some teflon wax inside the outer sleeve and spread it around and then wiped some on the outside of the thick sleeve already on the tube. Get the outer sleeve started, then grip the tube underneath the thick adapter tightly and whack the large outer sleeve until it bottoms out against your hand and is flush with the thick sleeve. 3 of the four I did went quickly and took a few minutes each (after I figured out this method). the fourth one fought me and took about 10 minutes as one side kept getting caught up and pulled down.
http://i.imgur.com/KG8Z3ka.jpg?1

Movie is uploading now.

[Mechie3]

Yesterday's movie.

https://vimeo.com/75275064

[Mechie3]

Got a fuel filter of NASIOC. $60 brand new, guy wanted $40 shipped including two brass AN to barb adapters. He had two of them, never used either. 10 micron filter. Score!

http://i.imgur.com/pTfBTNH.jpg?2

No video of tonight's work. Had to get some Fmod tires mounted so I didn't have much time between that, dinner, and taking care of all the dogs so I focused on making seat mounting brackets. The brackets that came with the seat work for the inboard side, but on the outboard side it barely touches the rail it needs to bolt to. I found some 1/4" thick angle channel with a radiused inside corner in the scrap pile. Winning!!! Took lots of measurements, remeasured, measured again, measured other stuff for reference, measured again, drew some lines on tape, and them marked the aluminum bits. I'll take the marked up pieces, make a CAD model, then machine off what I don't need.

Bimarco Bracket:
http://i.imgur.com/mz8Yl8M.jpg?2

Aluminum, tape, and markers:
http://i.imgur.com/XOrJ6VA.jpg?2

[Mechie3]

I think I need to swing by again to inspect your progress, you've gotten a ton done since last time I was there.

With minimal effort, I can now pull the mini in the garage too. Last time you came over it was just boxes and boxes and boxes.

Wednesday night is church group night so I never get much done. I did manage to take some more measurements and machine part of the lower mounting brackets. Still need to machine my own side brackets since won't use the full height, don't like how it hits the side plastic grommet, can drop the seat just a smidge lower, and I can resell them to get some of my money back.

http://i.imgur.com/7LuuTv6.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/vXyW6nI.jpg?1

My test crew:
http://i.imgur.com/d6mbiVo.jpg?1

[Frank818]

LOLLL These dogs will become the mascots, now. :)

[flynntuna]

Theses buckets are awesome!!! For dogs... lolll
Nah seriously they are, Bimarco Futura?

On a side note, the IM of the subarus, espacially the 4cyl, always remind me of a spider. loll

Never though of it that way, but now that I look at it...

[Frank818]

That looks to be 16 cylinders. Won't fit the 818 though.
And it's very ugly! loll

[Mechie3]

Another video. The dogs came and watched again from the doorway and then Boba (Boston Terrier) found the seat in the garage and came out on her own.

https://vimeo.com/75549020

[Mechie3]

Stayed late after work today and got my seat brackets made. Made the L brackets on a manual mill the past few days during lunch. Cut the tabs out on the CNC. Took less time to make all 8 tabs than it took to make 4 L brackets. My brackets are shorter overall (don't need the extra height and it interfered with the belt pass through grommet) and lowered the bottom hole by .375".

http://i.imgur.com/EOrbAD9.jpg?2

http://i.imgur.com/OEWYGvK.jpg?1

[metalmaker12]

Stayed late after work today and got my seat brackets made. Made the L brackets on a manual mill the past few days during lunch. Cut the tabs out on the CNC. Took less time to make all 8 tabs than it took to make 4 L brackets. My brackets are shorter overall (don't need the extra height and it interfered with the belt pass through grommet) and lowered the bottom hole by .375".

http://i.imgur.com/EOrbAD9.jpg?2


http://i.imgur.com/OEWYGvK.jpg?1



Wicked awesome Craig

[Mechie3]

That's what I was doing when we were texting me about the FFR seat brackets. lol.

[Wayne Presley]

My test crew:
http://i.imgur.com/d6mbiVo.jpg?1

"Whatcha doing standing up there Dad?"

[Frank818]

Wicked awesome Craig

That's I've been saying since the beginning. loll Now after 10 times I decided to stop instead of repeating myself over and over again. :)

[wallace18]

Super job on the brkts. Your 818 is going to be a piece of art when done.

[metalmaker12]

Ditto art for sure

[RM1SepEx]

too bad no one will ever see those brackets...

[Mechie3]

too bad no one will ever see those brackets...

Hahahahaha! Yup. You'd have to stand on your head to see anything.

Got the drivers seat fitted yesterday.

https://vimeo.com/75631764

[RM1SepEx]

my stock WRX seats only fit in if you crush the front outside edge of the seat cushion up vs that diagonal tube going from the side to the floor.

I'm still waiting for new seat rails but I'm pretty sure that my desire to attempt stock seats will be flushed soon. The stock steering wheel sits too high and too close too and the handbrake and shifter positions need work too

[Mechie3]

My seats don't have much adjustment room either. I'm about 1/2" forward of the firewall and don't have much room to go forward. Steering wheels seems a bit high too. I'm contemplating ditching the factory wheel and getting a smaller D shaped wheel since it's already almost in my lap. I would have been disappointed if I bought seat sliders since they wouldn't have done much and likely would put my head over the roll bar.

I haven't gotten to the ebrake and shifter yet. Probably today. I've been procrastinating wiring as well. lol

[Bob_n_Cincy]

my stock WRX seats only fit in if you crush the front outside edge of the seat cushion up vs that diagonal tube going from the side to the floor.

I'm still waiting for new seat rails but I'm pretty sure that my desire to attempt stock seats will be flushed soon. The stock steering wheel sits too high and too close too and the handbrake and shifter positions need work too

Hey Dan and Craig
The e-brake handle is in the way for me. I thinking about lowering the center console down 3-4". Maybe even taking the e-brake all the way to the floor. (running all wiring around the outside) I like my steering wheel with 1.5" spacers. I will be adding the FFR SW with the shortest quick release I can find. What do you think?
21893

[Mechie3]

I haven't located the e brake yet so I'm not sure what I think about it. lol. You do have a lot less wires than we do though.

[metalmaker12]

My kirkeys are just about 2 inches below roll with a 20 degree pitch rearward, I also feel the steering wheel is to high, I put a 1inch spacer to lower the wheel and my seat is about 1.5 off the frame. I am 5'9 so if I were taller I would think no seat brackets and some resourceful thinking. I would think 6'3-6'5 max would be a tuff nut to crack without some heavy mods

[Xusia]

Steering wheels seems a bit high too. I'm contemplating ditching the factory wheel and getting a smaller D shaped wheel since it's already almost in my lap.

How can it be too high, but at the same time almost in your lap?!? LOL

[Mechie3]

Its a 36" diameter wheel. Lol.

My seat is angled back slightly. Seat bottom is about 1" off the steel tubes. Between seat placement, height, and the resulting angle of my legs the wheel is close. Its hard to judge the trUe wheel height. I'm so used to either my fmod with a tiny 12" or so wheel in my lap with my body laying down or the mini/WRX that you sit up higher. I think with no windshield on I might be looking too far down and the wheel might appear higher than it really is.

[RM1SepEx]

Hey Dan and Craig
The e-brake handle is in the way for me. I thinking about lowering the center console down 3-4". Maybe even taking the e-brake all the way to the floor. (running all wiring around the outside) I like my steering wheel with 1.5" spacers. I will be adding the FFR SW with the shortest quick release I can find. What do you think?
21893

I need my seat brackets!!!!!!! to ID how/where everything sits. I identified the problem 1 month agio, they just sent new directions for the new rails but I don't have them yet. That diagonal brace boxes off just enough space for a seat, no way to use the low profile sliders that I have.

I'd love a lower tunnel however I'm trying to cram a stock harness in there. I'll post some photos on my thread after my nap! When a pigtail has components that need to go in both directions... I'll be pulling apart more of my loom later to make it easier. We have whole sections of useless harness length to "fold" into the center tunnel area.

[metalmaker12]

I think it's high, it was high to me in the 818s at open house with full windshield etc. but those seats were mounted even lower than mine and the wheel did not have as much as a spacer. We will get it were it feels comfortable and useful and it will be perfect for me. He'll Erik got it to work and he is like 5'6

[da King]

Hahahahaha! Yup. You'd have to stand on your head to see anything.

Got the drivers seat fitted yesterday.

https://vimeo.com/75631764

Mechie3: Just followed the thread from start to where it is now and its great but I don't know how you do it man, work, church, the dogs, scuba, racing, travel and then the build and the vid's too. Thanks for leading the way with one of the first builds and helping the factory make the changes for us guys that will get later kits, you've really raised the bar with your custom touches, thanks to the wifey too - for letting you hang in the garage and educate us all.
Thanks for keepin your pants pulled up in the last over head video, the potential for "plumber's crack" views were huge but none evident. No offence intended to any of the plumber's in the crowd.
Can't wait for more.
Finn

[Mechie3]

but I don't know how you do it man,

It's a couple of things. When my wife isn't standing in the door saying "what the heck are you doing now?" I'll work till around 10:30/11, then go inside, compile the video, and start uploading it and get to bed around noon. The next day I sit at my desk 1/2 awake until I find a bottle of mt dew. :lol:

Plus, I don't have kids yet.


Thanks for keepin your pants pulled up in the last over head video, the potential for "plumber's crack" views were huge but none evident.

:lol: hahahaha.

It's funny. When I know the camera is on I become super conscious of things like my pants falling down, fumbling around for tools, doing things over and over because I can't get it to fit right. In the end, most things aren't noticeable when played back really fast.

[Mechie3]

Work days 19 and 20. Day 19 was all afternoon saturday. Day 20 was 1 hour on Monday which consisted of 30 minutes of moving boxes off the 818 and stacking them back on the Fmod. :lol: Got one of the rear brake lines run. The tubing bender I got off ebay is great.

https://vimeo.com/75858306

[Mechie3]

Both front brakes are now reassembled. New o-rings, seals, and clips and powdercoated by Travis. You can see the difference between the front half that I smoothed out before coating and the back half that I left with the factory cast finish.

http://i.imgur.com/IAmHPz2.jpg?1

Machined the rear brakes where the brake banjo fits in to make sure it was a nice flat surface.
http://i.imgur.com/w6jRfbl.jpg?1

Due to my fuel routing, I needed to extend my turbo inlet. I took my silicone one, cut it in the middle and found a piece of 2.375" (I think?) x .030" thick 304 SS tubing to extend it. Might experiment with making it longer and welding on fittings and removing more of the silicone. It was $15 for a 3' long piece.
http://i.imgur.com/aJgUMer.jpg?1

[BrandonDrums]

Both front brakes are now reassembled. New o-rings, seals, and clips and powdercoated by Travis. You can see the difference between the front half that I smoothed out before coating and the back half that I left with the factory cast finish.

http://i.imgur.com/IAmHPz2.jpg?1

Machined the rear brakes where the brake banjo fits in to make sure it was a nice flat surface.
http://i.imgur.com/w6jRfbl.jpg?1

Due to my fuel routing, I needed to extend my turbo inlet. I took my silicone one, cut it in the middle and found a piece of 2.375" (I think?) x .030" thick 304 SS tubing to extend it. Might experiment with making it longer and welding on fittings and removing more of the silicone. It was $15 for a 3' long piece.
http://i.imgur.com/aJgUMer.jpg?1

I need to do this same thing if I want to use my silicone turbo inlet hose. Where do you get your SS tubing?

[Mechie3]

Bought the tube on ebay. You can buy it direct from their website too (onlinemetalsupply.com) but shipping was $3 cheaper through ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360687065813?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_2179wt_1014


Last night's video. Doing front brake lines. A bit of work/rework to get something that I liked. I need to make a bracket to mount my proportioning valve and get a 3 way female T (my kit came with a 2 way female 1 way male and one 3 way female used for the rear brakes). I dno't have the brake line bending pliers, just the arbor style bender so my 180 off the MC might be too tall. We'll find out.

https://vimeo.com/75952923

http://i.imgur.com/QTDEv1a.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/6mlzpJe.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Npy1P42.jpg

[Wayne Presley]

I dno't have the brake line bending pliers, just the arbor style bender so my 180 off the MC might be too tall. We'll find out.

It is too tall, the brake line needs to stay below the top of the reservoir.

[Mechie3]

It is too tall, the brake line needs to stay below the top of the reservoir.

It's just about even with it, but close. I'll have to find some pliers or make my own arbor. Thanks.

[Mechie3]

Wasn't satisfied with the line coming off the master cylinder and didn't want to pony up $46 for a small radius bending tool or drive 40 minutes roundtrip to harbor freight for bending pliers (that don't give as nice of a bend). Solution? Make your own bender! It needs some tweaking, but works pretty well.

http://i.imgur.com/VwpM4wQ.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/PPdR91Q.jpg?1

[longislandwrx]

Those look sweet. And its good to see a non-spotless master cyl. I got some Grimmspeed socks to bling mine out a bit.

I've always just used a socket and a ziptie for bends Works pretty well.

[Frank818]

There's nothing you can't make at work! :)

How long did it take to make it? Less than 40mins I believe. :)

[Mechie3]

Took a while to make, mainly because I started on the CNC lathe but it wasn't playing nice (rather, my understanding of it is limited) so I switched to a manual. It was also one of those "design as you go" (never that great of an idea) so it morphed a little as I went along. To do it again with known dimensions would take about an hour for all pieces. If I had the spools from somewhere I could do the plate and handle in about 15 minutes.

After proving out my concept worked last night I made it much more user friendly (and better) than the previous version. It would bend tubes, but tended to pull it through the two stationary dies (like a mandrel bender minus the mandrel) instead of holding it in the stationaries and rolling through the movable roller.

I bolted the center spool directly to the plate and cut a relief for brake line fittings
Offset the other stationary spool .875" to the left to make it easier to insert tubing
Moved rolling spool 1/2" away from pivot
Arm is now removable and held in place with a pin (unbolted bolt) for easy removable of bend tube.

If anyone wants dimensions I can post them. It's something that if you have the spools or can find or make them the rest can be made with square stock and a drill or drill press.

http://i.imgur.com/Q5turjm.jpg?1

3 90 degree bends in different planes
http://i.imgur.com/8uD19sM.jpg?1

Click picture for video:
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/th_VID_20131003_123148633.jpg (http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q291/mechie3/VID_20131003_123148633.mp4)

[da King]

Those look sweet. And its good to see a non-spotless master cyl. I got some Grimmspeed socks to bling mine out a bit.

I've always just used a socket and a ziptie for bends Works pretty well.

Never heard of socks, got some pic's, never heard of the socket zip tie either (I gotta get out more), socket for the radius of the bend, zip tie to hold it to the socket????????.

Nice bender Mechie3

[07FIREBLADE]

Just look up motorcycle socks. Basically a sweat band the covers the reservoirs

[longislandwrx]

Never heard of socks, got some pic's,

I think auto correct got fireblade, master cylinder socks, glorified sweatbands. The keep dripped fluid off your paint and keep dust from settling on your masters.

22263


never heard of the socket zip tie either (I gotta get out more), socket for the radius of the bend, zip tie to hold it to the socket????????.

yes, you don't really need the zip tie but for tighter bends it keeps the tube from sliding so much.

[Mechie3]

Not the most exciting video, but a video nonetheless.

https://vimeo.com/76110320


Rejoice! Someone on nasioc posted a link to these rollers. Now, with a drill and some material you can make a bender!

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Prime-Line-Screen-Door-Rollers-with-1-in-Steel-Ball-Bearing-Wheel-B-697/203155793#.Uk35GhZhNA8

[Racebrewer]

Nice bender ! ! !

Add a degree wheel for the angle challenged?

Off to Home Depot ! ! !

John

[Samiam1017]

What trailing arms did you go?

[Mechie3]

OBX from ebay. They had decent reviews and on a car 1/2 the weight that won't ever see salt, I don't forsee many issues. I was sandblasting and powdercoating my stock arms that had spherical bearings pressed into them. Decided it was too much work.

[Mechie3]

Made my updated alternator mount today. Prototype on bottom, finished piece on top.

http://i.imgur.com/oPml3Vm.jpg?1

[Frank818]

And there goes another piece of art... :)

[RM1SepEx]

damn sexy Craig! Can't wait to see what it looks like when mounted!

[Silvertop]

That's really SPIFFY! Car's going to be too nice to drive!

[07FIREBLADE]

Stupid auto correct on my phone. Hate iOS 7. I was meaning to say the socks or glorified sweatbands that you normally see on a sport bike.

Any plans on selling that alternator bracket or the cad file.

[Xusia]

So Craig, when are you quitting your day and opening your own parts manufacturer? Will it be called Craigsware? Or maybe Mechiebling?? LOL

Seriously cool stuff, bro.

[NicksPapaw]

You have it all wrong Xusia, he needs to open an art gallery. That kind of work should be available for all to see! :)

[dougkirkbride]

I think auto correct got fireblade, master cylinder socks, glorified sweatbands. The keep dripped fluid off your paint and keep dust from settling on your masters.

22263

Reminds me of seeing a boxer with a pink winter sweater on....... Jmo. Not a fan. But it's nice to see ideas/options. :)



yes, you don't really need the zip tie but for tighter bends it keeps the tube from sliding so much.


Ddd

[da King]

I've used socks in the past, my racing days in open wheel, the sock in the pic is pure bling - yes it will soak up fluid but its kind of an after thought, your fluid will be coming out of the cap not the reservoir, we would put socks on our caps not the reservoir. Fast air moving over an exposed master cyl will wick fluid out of the vent hole in the top of the cap and it will be everywhere, a cloth cap cover stopped all that mess. I doubt that the MC's on the 818 would be exposed enough to the fast air to cause the wicking thing to happen.

Finn

[Mechie3]

If I had a place to put a CNC I'd have one by now. Until then...

[Bob_n_Cincy]

If I had a place to put a CNC I'd have one by now. Until then...

Hey Craig, Problem solved. You could keep it at my shop.
only about 1 1/2 hr commute.
That's normal for west coast folks.
Bob

[Mechie3]

There's a reason I don't live on the west coast. ;)

My home computer is being troublesome so no videos yet.

Did this Saturday/Sunday:
Pulled motor/trans
Modified engine mounting plates
Installed gas tank firewall
Installed rear brakes
Reinstalled motor/trans
Assembled and installed CV axles
Removed trans nut and installed locking collar
Put trans cover plate on
Installed E brake Handle
Test fit 2 wheels.

I also put the car up on the cart I made for the trans. It's under the gas tank and balances the car perfectly front/back. Makes it super easy to roll everything around as needed.

Engine Mount as it came:
http://i.imgur.com/YBV66Li.jpg?1

Cut the corner off on both sides. Plenty of header clearance now.
http://i.imgur.com/Ce5yBlt.jpg?1

The Cart:
http://i.imgur.com/UVmdHod.jpg?1

Hoisting motor/trans back in:
http://i.imgur.com/5s3vZOv.jpg?1

Stuck 2x2's in the studs to stop wheels from turning to remove trans nut:
http://i.imgur.com/I5qlEmr.jpg?1

225/40/r18 on an 18x8 et 48 wheel. Random wheel/tire I had lying around to make a table out of. Maybe 1/8" of clearance at the firewall. Plenty of clearance at the strut and upper ball joint. Math says diameter is 25.09". Tire was a Bridgestone RE 760 sport.


http://i.imgur.com/girLCWn.jpg?1

[Mechie3]

225/45/r17 on a 17x7 et 42 wheel. These are my WRX winter wheels. It only cleared the firewall because a groove in the tread lined up perfectly. A slick at this size would rub slightly at full lock. Math says diameter is 24.97. Tires were Blizzak WS-60
http://i.imgur.com/e35h0Y2.jpg?1

[JeromeS13]

Were those tire pictures taken with the wheel straight or at full lock?

[Mechie3]

Full lock

[Erik W. Treves]

That's not where mine rub. Mine rub on the inner fender aluminum well before you rub there

[Mechie3]

I haven't done an alignment yet either. Those also aren't the tires I plan to use, just ones I had that I thought I'd fit to see how close they came.

For better or for worse....I took apart my shifter. We'll see what happens. :lol:

http://i.imgur.com/xNPLsIW.jpg?1

[RM1SepEx]

I want to shorten mine and I've considered making a new mounting system, meaning replacing the plastic section

[Mechie3]

To take it apart:

Undo steel clip (2)
Place socket around large diameter of shaft that the traingle pivots about
Insert setup in press, press on small diameter of shaft to pop off the push clip (or cut it off and get a new one later)
Hold plastic upside down in one hand, wack underside of shift handle with a mallet to pop off top plastic collar (it has plastic snaps that are hidden).

Much easier to cut it down and rethread it with it not still in the plastic.

[Wayne Presley]

To take it apart:

Undo steel clip (2)
Place socket around large diameter of shaft that the traingle pivots about
Insert setup in press, press on small diameter of shaft to pop off the push clip (or cut it off and get a new one later)
Hold plastic upside down in one hand, wack underside of shift handle with a mallet to pop off top plastic collar (it has plastic snaps that are hidden).

Much easier to cut it down and rethread it with it not still in the plastic.

Much easier to do this :cool:

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/shifter1_zps887bd82c.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/shifter1_zps887bd82c.jpg.html)

[Mechie3]

Much easier to do this :cool:

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/shifter1_zps887bd82c.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/shifter1_zps887bd82c.jpg.html)

:D Certainly, though I'm not (yet) independtly wealthy enough to add all the doodads if I can't make them myself. I'm not sure what I'm going to do, make something, buy something, or put it back together and forget I tried. At the very least I satisfied some of my curiousity seeing all the assembly come apart. :lol:

[Aloha818]

Can you measure the distance from the center of the driveshaft output of the side of the trans to the top of the frame just below it for me? I'm sticking in an auto and I think the pan is tipping the engine too far forward. I need a point of reference to see if I need to modify the frame of not, thanks in advance!

Mine is currently at 5"
22361

[Mechie3]

About 2.5 hours of work and all I have to show for it is a box of tape/wrapping, sticky red fingers, and a pile of wires on the garage floor.

http://i.imgur.com/5gKmrTo.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/eKPUPUA.jpg?1

[RM1SepEx]

looks familiar
just take your time, it isn't as bad as we thought

[Mechie3]

It's much less intimidating with the tape/wrap off as you can see what really goes where. My plan is to identify everything I think I can cut off and mark it with red tape, then plug everything in and get the car running then start cutting things out. So many systems are tied together that it isn't always easy to see what can be cut and what can't.

My goal is to cut out as much as possible including shortening sections that are too long and removing connectors where the only purpose was to allow assembly of the harness in stages on the WRX. We'll see how far I really go.

[longislandwrx]

Good luck sir. You are right, doesn't look Too bad with the loom off and the SRS stuff pulled aside.

It would be cool to reuse some of the modular connectors so you could build separate removable front and rear harnesses and of course use the existing engine harness plugs.

When I am ready, I plan on taking 3 days off work, locking myself in the garage with a multi meter, soldering iron, and a heat gun and emerging with a beautiful harness.

[Mechie3]

I'm also going to try and document what I do. We'll see how successful that is. That way the next person coming with an 06 donor has an easier time of it. Only difficulty will be I didn't document my engine harness (lots of stuff cutout) and a few minor pieces were cut out years ago as well.

[longislandwrx]

I think considering the length of the engine harness, those cuts will be the easiest, unless you plan on pulling those all out back to the ecu or otherwise.

Par for the course will probably be pulling:

EGT, TGV, PCV status, AC compressor, EVAP, and air pump for 06+ I probably missed one.

[Mechie3]

Yeah. Anything I cut off the motor harness I plan to strip back all the way to the ecu. No sense having extra wires (15?) going all over. 15 here, 15 there, suddenly you've got a huge mess of wires.

[da King]

Good luck sir. You are right, doesn't look Too bad with the loom off and the SRS stuff pulled aside.

It would be cool to reuse some of the modular connectors so you could build separate removable front and rear harnesses and of course use the existing engine harness plugs.

When I am ready, I plan on taking 3 days off work, locking myself in the garage with a multi meter, soldering iron, and a heat gun and emerging with a beautiful harness.


I see the pic's of that harness and it gives me nightmares, this would be the worst part of the whole build for me, I will get one of Wayne's setup's.
I'm jealous of you guys with the first cars and I'm so looking forward to taking my time and really enjoying my build but I know that stock harness will frustrate the hello outta me. When I first started looking into the 818 and found out there was a plug & play option to the stock harness I just built it into the budget.
I don't have the patience/willingness to do this but will follow the process with interest.
Finn

[fateo66]

and air pump for 06+


Be careful with this, the left side pump houses the barometric pressure sensor. I have heard that the 06 wrx does not use it but that may or may not be true. All I do know is that when I built the motor for my 08 STI I deleted the entire system; afterwards the car would only boost to 12PSI. Once I found out about the baro sensor I ran a datalog and confirmed that my car thought it was at 28HG. Long story short I bolted on just the left side and plugged it in and now the car runs at the 18PSI it's tuned for.

[Mechie3]

I ditched the air pump and both valves on my 06 back in early 08. It ran fine at 21psi until my wreck in 2012.

[longislandwrx]

Be careful with this, the left side pump houses the barometric pressure sensor. I have heard that the 06 wrx does not use it but that may or may not be true. All I do know is that when I built the motor for my 08 STI I deleted the entire system; afterwards the car would only boost to 12PSI. Once I found out about the baro sensor I ran a datalog and confirmed that my car thought it was at 28HG. Long story short I bolted on just the left side and plugged it in and now the car runs at the 18PSI it's tuned for.

Yeah you can also just cut the sensor off the airpump, and even pull the wires back closer to the ecu if you really want to clean up the harness

[freds]

Be careful with this, the left side pump houses the barometric pressure sensor. I have heard that the 06 wrx does not use it but that may or may not be true. All I do know is that when I built the motor for my 08 STI I deleted the entire system; afterwards the car would only boost to 12PSI. Once I found out about the baro sensor I ran a datalog and confirmed that my car thought it was at 28HG. Long story short I bolted on just the left side and plugged it in and now the car runs at the 18PSI it's tuned for.


I have an 06 and can positively tell you mine does have the barometric sensor in the driver side valve. So some do and some don't. There was a lot of info on this in a post on cleaning up the engine compartment. I haven't search for it now, but anyone interested can...and will find it easily.

fred

fred

[Mechie3]

The wiring diagram shows that it's there, but no one that I know of with an 06 has had issues with removing it. The ECU doesn't seem to use the signal from it.

BTW, I'm compiling a list of pictures, colors, etc for every connector on the 06 harness from a sedan with auto HVAC along with a "cut this wire, short this, don't cut this" to help out others with the same setup.

[Mechie3]

Started my wiring harness guide thread here:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11880-Wiring-Guide-06-WRX-Sedan-with-Auto-AC-HVAC&p=121065#post121065

Note it is specific to 06 WRX Sedan with auto HVAC. Others will be similar but with slight differences here and there so double check a FSM.

Finally fixed my home computer too. Transferred all the files to a backup drive and did a complete re-image. At least it works now. That means lots of videos were compiled today!

Day 23: Brake lines and lateral links
https://vimeo.com/76701260

Day 24: Engine, Trans, Axles, Aluminum
https://vimeo.com/76711984

Day 25 & 26: Wiring
https://vimeo.com/76717684

[Mechie3]

I haven't posted to my own thread in 10 days. Still doing wiring harness work. Takes much longer when you write down and take pictures of every thing you do. I did the actual harness work inside in the living room. The only comment my wife had was "have you seen a beautiful mind? You remind me of that guy". Fair enough. :lol:

Here's how I left the living room last night:
http://i.imgur.com/AsHM9eV.jpg

I try to remove pins instead of cutting wires, makes it easier to fix mistakes:
http://i.imgur.com/uGzkwXh.jpg?1

What've I've removed so far:
http://i.imgur.com/5v35uGe.jpg?1

[Frank818]

I hate seeing a mountain of wires. :( But we need to go through at some point!
How long you think it may take you sorting this out?


Mechie, off topic, you can respond to me in PM if you prefer.
After you nicely took pix of measurements for the VR6 thread, can you tell me which one gives the measurement from the middle of the axle to the firewall?

tnx a lot again :)

[Mechie3]

I hate seeing a mountain of wires. :( But we need to go through at some point!
How long you think it may take you sorting this out?


I've been working on it for over a week! :(



Don't get too depressed. I've been busy this past week/half so that's part of it. I've also been documenting the entire thing (as you've likely seen my thread). I took pictures of every connector, resized pictures, uploaded them, added captions, posted them here. Traced wiring diagrams, documented it all in an excel spreadsheet by connector ID, pin #, wire color, where to cut it off, and what function it has. As I go through the harness itself, I verify I wrote it down correctly. You won't have to do all of that. I did it so I could share it and give others a head start.

Actual time spent removing wires so far is maybe just over a day? I was watching movies at the same time (paying more attention to the harness than the movie) and my knee hurts to sit cross legged (torn tendon) so I have to keep getting up or moving every few minutes.


After you nicely took pix of measurements for the VR6 thread, can you tell me which one gives the measurement from the middle of the axle to the firewall?

tnx a lot again :)

Not sure if any of them did. I'll look at it tonight if I remember.

[longislandwrx]

Can I call dibs on you doing this for me first when you are done with your 818? :D

[Mechie3]

If I did do someone elses, I would only do it on an 06 as that's all I have solid documentation for. Other years will be similar, but will require some looking at wiring diagrams and I couldn't guarantee a flaw free diet.

[wleehendrick]

If I did do someone elses, I would only do it on an 06 as that's all I have solid documentation for.

My donor's an 06! Want a 'vacation' in San Diego this winter? ;)

Seriously, thanks for all the effort you're putting in to this!

[metalmaker12]

I might take my harness back out and cut even more out like you have, but right now everything is working correctly except my fans, which i will sort out soon. I think what you have done is very great, I just am going about it differently because I would come across more issues if I did it this way.

[Mechie3]

My one fear is that I put it in and nothing works. :o

So far I've mostly only eliminated things that are 100% missing (AC, HVAC, Defroster) that just end up in dead ends so there's no harm in removing it from the rest of the harness. I haven't done anything to things that will be there (lights, engine) just in case (airpump is one exception, since I ditched that years ago).

After I get it in the car and working then I'll shorten it. Didn't want to do 2 things at once (diet and shorten) since I'd never know if the problem was bad soldering or removing wires I needed.

[Mechie3]

Did some more wiring last night. Might be done for now, though I need to fix a couple broken wires that were pinched in the accident. Determined I can fully delete this little sub set of the fuse box. It houses the secondary AC relay, a small fuse, and relays for the airpump and valves. If you've seen the 06 box, it has a little dog leg that makes it a little akward looking. Thankfully, that section is a separate sub box once removed from the plastic housing. I'll make a new smaller, square box now.

http://i.imgur.com/xCqiu5i.jpg?2

I was also able to delete a couple of relays from the main box used for the airpump as well. The small row of relays snaps out of the main frame for the fuses to make it easier to extract pins.

http://i.imgur.com/JWVtCjP.jpg?1

[longislandwrx]

very nice. excited to see how much weight you've saved.

[Mechie3]

I think I'll save more weight when I trim the wires. There's 4 feet of wire between the ECU and fuse box and then another 4 to other sensors. Most of that can be trimmed down to 2 I think.

[metros]

Truly impressive work on that harness. That will serve as a great resource to the rest of us. Thanks!

[Mechie3]

Here's how I left the car last night:

http://i.imgur.com/rgKicF5.jpg?1

Looks like a mess but...

Keyless entry works
Door chimes work
Key chime works
Starter works
Gauges light up
High beams, running lights, and blinker works.

At a minimum, I didn't completely screw up my wiring harness! :D Still have work to do on the motor/fuel system before it's ready to try and start it up. Once it runs, I'll position the fuse boxes and such where I want them and then extend and cut wires as needed.

My low beams didn't work, but I wasn't terribly surprised. I had minimal grounds hooked up and I'm not sure if the HID was damaged in the accident anyways.

Haven't seen this view in a long time!
http://i.imgur.com/7WS0C91.jpg?2

[gwader]

Power!!!!!!!! Is that the stock harness?

[Xusia]

Yes. Mechie3 is meticulously documenting the stocking wiring harness diet process for a 2006 WRX Auto A/C donor (in this base "auto" refers to the A/C and not the transmission).

[metalmaker12]

Nice mechie!!

[Frank818]

Keyless entry is pretty easy when you got no doors fitted yet. lollll I had to say it. :)

[RM1SepEx]

very nice, you are back in front of me!

[wleehendrick]

Yes. Mechie3 is meticulously documenting the stocking wiring harness diet process for a 2006 WRX Auto A/C donor (in this base "auto" refers to the A/C and not the transmission).

Does anyone know of differences in the harness between the sedan and wagon? My donor is just like Craig's, but a wagon. It'll be a while before I get to wiring, but I feel so much more confident having a roadmap!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Does anyone know of differences in the harness between the sedan and wagon? My donor is just like Craig's, but a wagon. It'll be a while before I get to wiring, but I feel so much more confident having a roadmap!

Wagon has trailer connector
Rear gate latch
Rear wiper
High mounted Tail light connector slightly different because no spoiler option

Search the schematic for (wagon)and (WG)

[Mechie3]

Bob covered most of it. There's a few spots in the manual where it shows branches that say <ST>, <TB>, <NA>, <ES>, or <WG>. ST= STI, TB= turbo (non STI), NA = non turbo non STI, ES means except STI, WG means wagon. Sometimes these branches run in parallel. When this happens (usually for things like ST and ES) you cross out the one you don't have. Other times it will branch off with another line that says "WG". Most of the things a wagon has that a sedan doesn't get cut out anyways.

[Mechie3]

Keyless entry is pretty easy when you got no doors fitted yet. lollll I had to say it. :)

:D

But it goes :beep beep beep: when I lock it to let me know my door is open.

Also, for those that dno't want door chimes (or if you do, and delete the rear door chimes) simply cutting the wires is enough. No need to ground them. I confirmed this last night.

[AZPete]

Again, THANKS for all your documentation! It will help me and many others!!!

[blueoval_bowtie_guy]

I love your battery mount! :p

[Mechie3]

I love your battery mount! :p

It's custom!

:D

[Mechie3]

Started to get more of the plumbing done. I've always disliked how clean subaru motors look until you plumb all the hoses and they look like a rats nest. Trying my best, but fighting a losing battle.

http://i.imgur.com/ClzKhIq.jpg?2

Don't laugh too hard. Some parts have humble cardboard beginnings.
http://i.imgur.com/H9X2ShQ.jpg?1

[longislandwrx]

Started to get more of the plumbing done. I've always disliked how clean subaru motors look until you plumb all the hoses and they look like a rats nest. Trying my best, but fighting a losing battle.


and unlike the WRX there's nowhere to hide anything on the 818. you can see the motor from every angle!

[Frank818]

Thinking about that, are you going to install a flat floor panel underneath the engine?
Does one come with the kit?

[longislandwrx]

Frank that might be hard, it seems most headers are extending below the frame, you might need to lower the panel down quite a bit.

[mavisky]

Looking good Mechie. Keep up the good work. If something ever happens to the wife's Forester XT I may have to find a way to mount a car seat in an 818 and go this route to replace it.

[Frank818]

Frank that might be hard, it seems most headers are extending below the frame, you might need to lower the panel down quite a bit.

Oh, I see. So it's an open box in the engine bay. Wouldn't the rear diffuser be more efficient if such a flat floor could fit? Just asking out of curiosity, may be a little OT but it's part of his build (and all the others) to install or not a floor, right. :)

[Mechie3]

I bought the diffuser, but don't have it yet.

[Xusia]

But does the kit come with a pan or anything for that spot? If not, I would assume the wind tunnel tests were conducted without it as well. Point being that adding it would likely affect the aerodynamics in the rear, and therefore the balance of the car. Might not be a good idea...

[Frank818]

Point being that adding it would likely affect the aerodynamics in the rear, and therefore the balance of the car. Might not be a good idea...

Of course, then take a WAG and install the Race Front Splitter, since this one produces more downforce and shouldn't be used with the road rear spoiler, maybe the addition of the flat floor panel would balance things out. :) Like I said, just WAG. :) Let's first see what data people come up with having the engine bay opened underneath. Maybe it's very useful already for ventilation. Or maybe Mechie will CNC machine a floor with NACA scoops! lollll One or 2 lunch times and there you go. :)

[flynntuna]

Like these?

[Frank818]

Yeah exactly!! This is a beautiful underneath!

[Mechie3]

But does the kit come with a pan or anything for that spot? If not, I would assume the wind tunnel tests were conducted without it as well. Point being that adding it would likely affect the aerodynamics in the rear, and therefore the balance of the car. Might not be a good idea...

I do'nt remember if it comes with a floor or not. I would assume a flat floor wouldn't hurt aero balance as much as improve flow.


Prototype 1 to prototype 2. Carboard ain't so funny now huh? lol.

http://i.imgur.com/mTq0Mf0.jpg?1

Left in the factory position you can't remove the cap at all.
http://i.imgur.com/vtp0T1E.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/SXLf1rO.jpg?1

I'll have these quoted at a local shop that does laser cutting of flat stuff. I have a friend that works there so I can get better prices. All my other parts are out for quote at another local shop too.

[AZPete]

I'll buy one.

[Wayne Presley]

But does the kit come with a pan or anything for that spot? If not, I would assume the wind tunnel tests were conducted without it as well. Point being that adding it would likely affect the aerodynamics in the rear, and therefore the balance of the car. Might not be a good idea...


The FFR makes a pan to connect the airflow from the flat bottom to the diffuser

[wleehendrick]

All my other parts are out for quote at another local shop too.

Awesome... you and Wayne are killing my budget!

[Stickshift84]

I want one of those brackets too. Looks perfect.

[Wayne Presley]

Awesome... you and Wayne are killing my budget!


I represent that remark....OPM Rules!

[Mechie3]

I think the only money I've killed so far is my own. Gotta try harder!

Here is my solution to the coolant tank line that normally goes to the small fitting on the radiator. I took the idea from a comment RMISepx made. There is a boss on the engine crossover pipe on the front where I drilled and tapped. It's a square and says "G" on it (at least mine did). I drilled an 1/8" hole in the center then drilled it larger (Q size) and tapped it with an 1/8-27 NPT. I just happened to have an 1/8" NPT right angle fitting lying around too. :D The only bad thing is you need to be careful that you tigthen the fitting enough but not too much so that you crack it. With the 90 degree fitting you have to angle it correctly too so it becomes a game of "do I go around again, or stop here and hope it's tight?". The wall is a little thin and it's a cast part. I have a spare so was willing to try it out. Worst case I'd just machine a fitting up and weld it to the tube.

Before you copy this, double check where your turbo inlet is. I extended my inlet using a steel tube so had plenty of room. In the stock setup, this hose might be fully covered on top.

http://i.imgur.com/GNQa0F6.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/G9e0F5Y.jpg?1

[RM1SepEx]

I just picked up a straight barbed fitting for mine... As soon as my health issue clears up a bit more I'll be doing the same thing with my 5/16 barb but angling it towards the center of the engine to avoid the intake tube. Note: Fill the tube with balled up duct tape to catch as many bits of aluminum as possible and vacuum after with the shop vac

[Wayne Presley]

I think the only money I've killed so far is my own. Gotta try harder!

Here is my solution to the coolant tank line that normally goes to the small fitting on the radiator. I took the idea from a comment RMISepx made. There is a boss on the engine crossover pipe on the front where I drilled and tapped. It's a square and says "G" on it (at least mine did). I drilled an 1/8" hole in the center then drilled it larger (Q size) and tapped it with an 1/8-27 NPT. I just happened to have an 1/8" NPT right angle fitting lying around too. :D The only bad thing is you need to be careful that you tigthen the fitting enough but not too much so that you crack it. With the 90 degree fitting you have to angle it correctly too so it becomes a game of "do I go around again, or stop here and hope it's tight?". The wall is a little thin and it's a cast part. I have a spare so was willing to try it out. Worst case I'd just machine a fitting up and weld it to the tube.

Before you copy this, double check where your turbo inlet is. I extended my inlet using a steel tube so had plenty of room. In the stock setup, this hose might be fully covered on top.

http://i.imgur.com/GNQa0F6.jpg?1


I did the same on mine and the GRM car, it fills 98% on the first time and self burps the rest.

[Mechie3]

I did the same on mine and the GRM car, it fills 98% on the first time and self burps the rest.

Good to hear.

[metalmaker12]

Ditto like two weeks ago

[Mechie3]

Here's what I got done on Sunday:

Bought a rubber hose from o-reilly. 1.625" ID and ~ .125" wall. It just barely slips over the corrugated tubing. It's a funky 90 degree hose, but can be cut up into 4 pieces about 3" long or so. I put one piece where it goes into the side of the frame and one where it comes out the front. Because of the bend radius of the hose, it won't touch anywhere else even though it's exposed in the middle. It's from some late 60's cars but it works. My oreilly just lets me go in the back and look at all of their random hoses to see what fits.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MBH0/20475/01358.oap?year=1959&make=American%2BMotors&model=Rebel&vi=1318744&ck=Search_01358_1318744_-1&pt=01358&ppt=C0331

http://i.imgur.com/YLkAYIH.jpg?1

I put zip ties on either end so the hose won't eventually vibrate its way off from where I placed it.
http://i.imgur.com/W7RwASP.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/X4rPz9M.jpg?1

I ordered some larger silicone covered P clamps so I could mount the 90 deg hose as close to the frame as possible.

http://i.imgur.com/4aPdXco.jpg?1

I cut off a 1.5" section of the hose and located it in the middle where it has potential to rub against the frame. Again, added zip ties to help keep it in place.
http://i.imgur.com/TeRrPe8.jpg?1

Monday I came home, ate dinner, looked at where to move our two cherry trees and the fell asleep on the couch waking up in time to go to bed. I did manage to make a new coolant tank bracket. The angle changed 5 degrees so the side of the tank is parallel to the frame rail (aesthetic reasons only) and I moved it away from the stock fuel pressure reference port on the manifold.

http://i.imgur.com/fPye0EQ.jpg?2

http://i.imgur.com/zAEWWF9.jpg?1

[Mechie3]

Between being busy moving more trees and falling asleep on the couch I haven't gotten much on car wrench time. I have made a few more parts in the shop and finally managed to mount some of them.

Trimmed the side bracket off the coolant tank. No reason to have extra legs hanging off looking all ugly now.
http://i.imgur.com/R7phiP8.jpg?1
http://i.imgur.com/XCsioFP.jpg?1

Made two brackets for my fuel filter. They mount to the frame with a flat head 1/4-20 on the underside middle of the bracket. Makes for a smaller bracket overall, but a harder time installing it. Made a simple template to make sure I drilled my holes on center to make sure the centerlines of the two brackets were collinear.

Close up:
http://i.imgur.com/A5phSZg.jpg?1

Farther away:
http://i.imgur.com/6yESbQF.jpg?1

[RM1SepEx]

I took that bottom bracket off my tank too... band saw and then used my expanding sandpaper wheel to clean it up

[Wayne Presley]

Made two brackets for my fuel filter. They mount to the frame with a flat head 1/4-20 on the underside middle of the bracket. Makes for a smaller bracket overall, but a harder time installing it. Made a simple template to make sure I drilled my holes on center to make sure the centerlines of the two brackets were collinear.



Farther away:
http://i.imgur.com/6yESbQF.jpg?1

Can't mount it there, there is an aluminum piece that goes over the top of that tube and goes back 8"ish into open space to hang the vertical hump aluminum.

[Mechie3]

Might have to stick it on the underside or modify the hump aluminum.

[Mechie3]

No time to work on the actual car again, but I did run to Harbor Fright during lunch with a 25% off coupon and grabbed this Rivnut gun. The main complaint online was it only came with 10 nuts and they sold no extras (not a problem) and that when using teh 1/4-20 attachment the arbor head tended to mushroom. Also not a problem if you can make your own from hardned steel. :D Haven't put it to the test yet but I'm hoping it makes setting rivnuts less time consuming.

http://i.imgur.com/xwOoLGX.jpg?1

[RM1SepEx]

I use it too. I found that you may need to shorten the screw in heads a bit to get full thread engagement with some of the sizes... The 1/4 20s require a manly squeeze!

I buy the inserts from McMaster.com

[Mechie3]

Just because you can doesn't mean you should. Unless, of course, you're talking about needing a simple spacer for a bolt and you have titanium at your disposal. In that case, you should. :lol:

http://i.imgur.com/Sr5xsG2.jpg?1

[Mechie3]

Got my brake and clutch lines finally finished. I wasn't happy with one of the front lines so redid that and hadn't started my clutch lines prior to this weekend. I posted pics of that in the brake routing suggestions thread.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11956-Brake-routing-suggestions-Post-your-pics&p=124637#post124637

I also welded in some supports for my shifter. I was never able to get my shifter to line up with the rivnuts in the frame. I would have had to put the rivnut directly on the vertical wall of the frame tube which, of course, isn't possible. I cut out the top section and the inside wall and welded some 1"x.125" steel bars in place, ground it down so it was flush, and painted it. Shifter now mounts quite nicely and the bars, which could previously be flexed a little, are stiffer.

http://i.imgur.com/TknQytS.jpg?1

The rest of my silicone coolant hoses should arrive today, then I'm just waiting for a 1/6NPT die to show up so I can finish buttoning up my engine. After I solder the new fuel pump connection on I can try and see if the car starts.

[metalmaker12]

I just bent mine frame out a bit and shifter lined right up

[Mechie3]

I would've had to bend mine in, and then the sheet metal tunnel wouldn't have sat flush against it and would be prone to getting bent.

[longislandwrx]

That seems very close to the rear of the car, but I guess that's all personal preference.


I think i'm going to mount mine directly to the floor steel using maybe an inch and a half or two inch spacer to allow the wiring to fit underneath. Otherwise the shifter is just too darn high for my tastes. That combined with a short throw lever should do the trick.

[Mechie3]

I mounted it right where they said to. I'm contemplating cutting the shifter lever down. I'll mess with spacing later.

Speaking of spacing....

I made some spacers during lunch today. I didn't like how the bottom of the shifter is angled and the inside where the bolt sits is angled as well. It means an awkward bolt angle and minimal head contact. These drop in the top and match the 12deg slant so that the bolt can sit against a flat surface. I thought about making spacers for the bottom, but in the end, not sure I care that much. As long as the bolt is good, I'm fine.

http://i.imgur.com/X8psKFM.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/ZCaTzl2.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/8KgtWqg.jpg?1

[Xusia]

I think i'm going to mount mine directly to the floor steel using maybe an inch and a half or two inch spacer to allow the wiring to fit underneath. Otherwise the shifter is just too darn high for my tastes.

I am planning something similar.

[Mechie3]

I looked at putting mine under the tunnel rails, but couldn't find an easy way to get it in and out without having to remove the floor or cut the shifter up. I want to be able to remove it easily for future projects.

Got the shifter cables mounted and routed last night after spending over an hour looking for the rod ends. Ended up making it a garage clean up night as I looked. Swapped Fmod tires over to trailer wheels/tires and took the race tires downstairs. Broke down boxes and threw them away, vacuumed, and got ready to be able to move my wife's car inside. Propane tank ran out and it got cold too. Still, I was happy to get the cables run and be able to shift. It's a little notchy and needs some adjustment, but it works. :D

http://i.imgur.com/H2WFJYV.jpg

I also measured my steering rack last night. With the wheels pointed straight and no adjustment to the rack (left it at the same setting as my WRX was) the passenger side shaft was ~ 1.25" more extended than the driver side. Whe I evened out the left/right extension, the driver side was .375" from the front suspension pivot and the passenger side was 1.5" from the front suspension pivot. A 1.125" spacer on the passenger side will even up the left/right travel, make bump steer even left to right, and make the turning radius the same left to right.

http://i.imgur.com/bbtUFPr.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/aBAn4iT.jpg

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I also measured my steering rack last night. With the wheels pointed straight and no adjustment to the rack (left it at the same setting as my WRX was) the passenger side shaft was ~ 1.25" more extended than the driver side. Whe I evened out the left/right extension, the driver side was .375" from the front suspension pivot and the passenger side was 1.5" from the front suspension pivot. A 1.125" spacer on the passenger side will even up the left/right travel, make bump steer even left to right, and make the turning radius the same left to right.


I agree tha a 1.125 spacer will work on the passinger side.
Is the spacer between the rack and the pivot?
I am picturing in my mind a male-female custom machined piece. Is this correct?
Bob

[Mechie3]

Correct. It screws into the shaft (rack) and has a female thread for the inner tie rod to thread into.

[Mechie3]

Made the spacer but, due to a mild case of stupidity, I made the OD 26mm (same as the shaft). It allows for extra TRAVEL on the passenger side when what I needed was extra EXTENSION. I wasn't thinking I had already centered the travel of the rack. As is, the passenger side bottoms out when the pinion runs out of teeth to mesh with on the rack. No bueno. I'll have to order some SS since I used the only piece we had left. Once I increase the OD to make a hard stop I'll end up with equal travel left to right and equal bump steer.

http://i.imgur.com/e7rzkcM.jpg?2

http://i.imgur.com/VWkFdtk.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/N5V5sBT.jpg?1

[C.Plavan]

Man- I wish I had a CNC :)

[D Clary]

On my autox Mustang I made steering limiters for the rack out of pvc tubing. Just get the right diameter for the rack and split it lengthwise. you can make it any length you want for a steering stop. You may need this adjustment for tire clearance at full lock.

[RM1SepEx]

Craig, just cut off a small amount from the spacer and use a large, thick washer for a stop in between the rack and the spacer...

[Xusia]

Sounds like another Craigspart for sale!

[Mechie3]

Man- I wish I had a CNC :)

This part could be done on a manual lathe. :D


On my autox Mustang I made steering limiters for the rack out of pvc tubing. Just get the right diameter for the rack and split it lengthwise. you can make it any length you want for a steering stop. You may need this adjustment for tire clearance at full lock.

I need to make another one of these and need to order material anyways so might as well remake it. Now that I know it isn't supposed to go inside the rack I can add flats to it as well. I had to use vice grips to get it off my rack this morning. I'd much rather use a wrench on flats.


Craig, just cut off a small amount from the spacer and use a large, thick washer for a stop in between the rack and the spacer...

Certainly a possibility. I'd have to make the threads deeper and it might make it a little thin.


Sounds like another Craigspart for sale!

Could be. :D Not sure how many are affected by this. If FFR moves the mount it won't work. You'd end up needing a smaller spacer and/or a spacer for both sides (both smaller than this one).

[RM1SepEx]

The threads don't get any deeper, the part goes in the same amount due to the washer/spacer. Flats are needed though.

As far FFR, Their solution should be moving the mounts and using the stock parts.... I haven't done the calculations etc.. to determine actual bump steer and the .06125 difference might not be significant. You have to look at the suspension and run all the numbers for perfection (zero bump steer) I don't know what the best rack length is when it is in the current position.

Craig and I just want the steering travel and bump steer to be even on both sides.

[JeromeS13]

Has anyone thought of just trying to find a longer inner tie rod for the one side? From my research, the inner tie rod from a 1990-1994 Plymouth Lazer is 1.25" longer than the 2006 WRX and has the correct M16x1.5 inner and M14x1.5 outer threads... If that works, it's a $19 fix (using generic substitutes for the Moog).

Moog EV236 (Lazer)
13.06" long

Moog EV800049 (WRX)
11.81" long