Jim's Build Thread

[33fromSD]

Hi There

So I don't have my build number yet, but I'll kick off a build thread now since I'm starting to receive parts although I wasn't expecting it yet, nor will I see my actual 33 kit from FFR until early September.

My configuration for my Gen2 Kit is this:
* Powder Coated Frame
* 302/T5 Blue Print Engines combo (ordered Friday)
* Manual Trans Pedal Box Components
* 28 spline 35.25" driveshaft
* Black Leather Bucket Seat Upgrade
* 4-Link suspension
* Gen2 Nose/engine cover kit
* FFR gauge cluster (interestingly enough these Dakota Digital gauge clusters are build in my town in SoDak)
* Paintable Tilt Steering Column
* Brushed Aluminum Hood or Trunk Handles
* Brushed Aluminum interior handles / cables
* Full Fender Kit w/ Running boards
* FFR Carpeted Floor Mats
* Gen2 HR 11.65 Rear Disc Brake Kit
* Mosier 8.8" 4-Link Rear End Assembly
* 18"x9 & 20"x11 Gray Bonneville Wheel / Tire Kit
* Sound Insulation Kit
* Spread Rear Exit Exhaust System
* Hot Rods Black Soft Top (w/ zippered side curtains)

Wasn't supposed to get the 4-Link Moser Rear end until mid-Aug but it showed up today. I guess I'll use the extra space in the crate to store other parts that might show up until my kit arrives.

I ordered the complete kit (Stage 1 & Stage 2) since I have the room for everything.

Won't have a lot updates until later when I get the kit but I'll update stuff as I get parts.

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[FF33rod]

Getting the beer and popcorn to watch this properly ;)
If you need something to do, answer this question: what colour is it going to be? If I had a buck for every time that question was asked... LOL

Steve

[JOP33]

Use the Moser crate to store your receipts in! :p

[shmelty]

Use the Moser crate to store your receipts in! :p

Hahaha!! So true!!

[JimLev]

LOL, all good answers!

[HVACMAN]

It's not big enough. lol

[33fromSD]

Yeah.... I think I'm going to need a bigger box. I'm supposed to be concentrating on a 55 Ford F100 build I'm currently doing so I can get that in decent shape before the 33 shows up but I found myself on line last night for about 3 hours searching for goodies for the 33 (wiring harness, mirrors, different seat belts, stereo, etc.) when I should have been looking for stuff for the 55 F100. ;)

[Mastertech5]

I think you will find that something always gets in the way of what you are trying to do. Post a lot of pictures. What color did you say? Good luck and have fun!

[33fromSD]

I think you will find that something always gets in the way of what you are trying to do. Post a lot of pictures. What color did you say? Good luck and have fun!

Oh yeah...I've learned years ago doing restorations on classic cars that stuff gets in the way / plans change / budgets are blown, etc. etc. I have a very tolerant wife who loves cars as much as I do so changes (meaning extra $$) is not an issue. :o

Example...I'm currently working on a 69 Austin Healey that was supposed to be a "simple" oil leak repair (rear seal) and it turned into a complete engine/tranmission rebuild with new interior since all that needed to come out just to get to the rear seal (turns out you can't do it in the car) and you need to remove the seats to remove the carpet on the transmission tunnel to get to two bolts that hold the rear tranny mount. $250 in parts originally turned into about $4K when I'll be finished.

On the color...not sure yet... I have a few in mind:
* white w/ black accents (Grill, maybe fenders, etc.)
* 2020 Mopar Battleship Gray
* Possibly a more vintage color (popsicle orange, lighter blue (50's F1 Ford blue)

I love love love black, burgundy, deep blue, basically any dark color etc. ........ on other people's cars..... but I don't want them on mine since I don't want to spend my time cleaning all the time. I have 3 classic mustangs up and running and one is a burgundy and then my 70 challenger is Plum Crazy Purple and those are the two that I end up cleaning the most since dust is so noticeable on them. They are gorgeous for the first 5 minutes after they are clean.

Not sure.....color is one of those that I almost need to see the car ready for paint before I know the exact direction I want to go.

[Mastertech5]

I Had a 65 Fastback in my youth. The floors rotted and a shackle went through into the trunk. Life got in the way and I sold it. I loved that car!

[33fromSD]

Engine / tranny showed up today from BluePrint Engines....couple more weeks and the kit should show up.

Still need to order different valve covers and air cleaner.

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[33fromSD]

Was informed today that the 33 HR kit will be picked up at FFR by Stewart on 9/17 (+/- 1 day) and it should be at my house in SoDak on 9/23 (+/- 1 day).

getting close!!

[33fromSD]

Just got confirmation from FFR that my 33 HR kit is being loaded on Stewart Tranportation's truck.....should be to me in SoDak by mid-next week. I best be cleaning up the garage this weekend.

[33fromSD]

The wait is over!!.... well, almost. I just got call from Stewart Transport, my 33 HR Kit will be delivered at 8:00 AM tomorrow morning (9/25).....

It was supposed to be a day earlier but they ran into a few issues with their crane and since they were in Iowa already for a delivery they stopped by the crane manufacturer to get it serviced. All is good now.

Looks like this weekend the inventory starts.

[Mastertech5]

I'm so glad for you! My wife sees cars as transportation and that's it. enjoy the build.

[33fromSD]

I'm so glad for you! My wife sees cars as transportation and that's it. enjoy the build.

Yeah, I'm married to an angel, she is as much into cars and in some cases more than I am. She helps where she can but her true passion is documenting / following the journey but really likes the cruising after the finished car is ready to go. She puts journals together of every build with pics, significant milestones, any items unique to the vehicle, tracks issues we ran into on a build so we can avoid on future cars, tracks costs, etc.

I'm a truly lucky man. She is one in a million

[33fromSD]

Car is here...you've all seen this before, but pics attached

Very neat process to see & experience.....these guys are truly professionals at what they do....The driver's cart didn't fit on my lift (too narrow) so I'll need to build a cart to get it on there which is the first action item...next is doing inventory on the big pile of boxes

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[33fromSD]

On the lift, just need to get it back onto jack stands. The cart I made will come in handy for the body shell (may modify it a bit though)

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[FF33rod]

Congrats, I remember the feeling well! have fun this weekend!

[sread]

did the fear set in yet?..."what have I gotten myself into?"


:confused:

[33fromSD]

did the fear set in yet?..."what have I gotten myself into?"


:confused:

Nope..... Now had I never done complete restorations of classic cars before and dealt with piles of parts I could see where it would, but this, just as those projects is about getting organized, time management and getting started.

In fact, in parallel to this I have a 55 Ford F100 frame off restoration going on as well as a 67 mustang rotisserie restoration going on......Thank goodness the mustang is down to body work prep in anticipation for paint in spring but on the 55 Ford F100 I just restarted putting the frame back together after I got it all painted up.

The good news is I'm about 3/4 of the way through the 33 HR inventory, today I'll finish that up, store the boxes & body panels I don't need right now and get started.

Here's a quick shot of the current state of the 55 F100

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[JimLev]

You’ll do just fine building the 33.

[33fromSD]

Inventory finished earlier this morning, boxes and body panels not needed taken out to the shop and stored so they are out of the way. Body is off the frame. Basically I only left boxes for suspension, brakes and steering back at the house to start on. My upper control arms for the 4-link rear end are back ordered so I'll have to wait on that.

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[33fromSD]

Except for installing the tie-rods, front suspension & steering rack is installed. I decided not to powder coat or paint the upper & lower control arms, instead I cleaned them up, buffed them out and then cleared them...I like the look (not for everyone I know).

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[j33ptj]

They need chroming!!!

That would look awesome....

[33fromSD]

Got the aluminum gas tank shelf installed last night along with the passenger side aluminum floor panel under the car.

I'm glad I have a lift where I could work standing up...kudos to you all who did this laying on the ground, I couldn't imagine having to do this laying on the ground. Having bursitis in the shoulders I'm feeling it this morning, just glad I only have the driver's side left. :rolleyes:

One question......did you guys run a bead of clear seam sealer around the bottom of the panel to keep moisture from getting between the panel and the frame?

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[JimLev]

I used black RTV in cartridges for my caulking gun on the aluminum panels.
I put it on the frame then riveted the panels.

[RoadRacer]

One question......did you guys run a bead of clear seam sealer around the bottom of the panel to keep moisture from getting between the panel and the frame?


Yes, I used clear sealer under every panel.

[33fromSD]

Thanks guys.....To be clear, I used panel bond between the frame and the aluminum sheets but I may also take clear seam sealer on the exterior of the floor panels where it meets the frame as well as the seam in the middle (will do the middle seam from the top so it's less obvious).

Just seems like a susceptible area for moisture to get in and sit and eventually rot things out.

[FF33rod]

Yes put sealer on the frame between it and every panel to cut down on rattle. I also used it at the seams between the panel. Note there is an aluminum colored GE Silicone II if you can find it.

Do you have the FFR heat and sound insulation package? If so, there is a piece that goes between the gas tank and the aluminum underneath it. Now would be a good time to put that on. The manual has you installing the tank long before it talks about the insulation...

Steve

[33fromSD]

Yes put sealer on the frame between it and every panel to cut down on rattle. I also used it at the seams between the panel. Note there is an aluminum colored GE Silicone II if you can find it.

Do you have the FFR heat and sound insulation package? If so, there is a piece that goes between the gas tank and the aluminum underneath it. Now would be a good time to put that on. The manual has you installing the tank long before it talks about the insulation...

Steve

Good tip...yes, I ordered the sound insulation package....... I'll dig out the insulation piece that goes under the tank.

[33fromSD]

Driver's side floor board installed (Yay, no more bottom side drilling / riveting). Also got the firewall installed. It came with some scratches on it so I'll need to figure out if I can buff those out, otherwise I may just paint it. Also need to drill the hole for the clutch cable yet.

Probably this weekend I'll do some of the interior aluminum panels (Waiting on the 3M 5200 sealant to arrive for the internal foam).

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[RoadRacer]

Also need to drill the hole for the clutch cable yet.


Think long and hard about the clutch cable. I started that way due to budget, but didn't like it once in and I switched to hydraulic release bearing. People use both types (well all three if you count internal vs external hydraulic) and they all have advantages. I'm just saying read the threads and think about it now and potentially save some rework.

[33fromSD]

Will do..Thanks for the heads up

[AJT '33]

Think long and hard about the clutch cable. I started that way due to budget, but didn't like it once in and I switched to hydraulic release bearing. People use both types (well all three if you count internal vs external hydraulic) and they all have advantages. I'm just saying read the threads and think about it now and potentially save some rework.

Agree with RoadRacer, I installed the clutch cable and will be replacing the cable with a hydraulic system from Mike Forte (https://fortesparts.com/product/fortes-tko-600-hydraulic-clutch-kit/) or similar system (https://www.moderndriveline.com/shop/hydraulic-clutch-kits/slave-cylinders/ford-slave/external-hydraulic-slave-kit-sbf-bell/?fbclid=IwAR2xlk9sCX4Mrnm83Fm86cArSE7kCfTYKPIixwJR VU3uKpAtArlaQLehxac). My opinion is that due to the tight 180 degree bend the cable does not slide in the sleeve as easily and cleanly as it should, would not recommend the cable, should have gone with the hydraulic or hydraulic assist.
135781 You can see it coming out of the firewall and looping back, its not a straight shot.

As always, HAVE FUN!!

[33fromSD]

Agree with RoadRacer, I installed the clutch cable and will be replacing the cable with a hydraulic system from Mike Forte (https://fortesparts.com/product/fortes-tko-600-hydraulic-clutch-kit/) or similar system (https://www.moderndriveline.com/shop/hydraulic-clutch-kits/slave-cylinders/ford-slave/external-hydraulic-slave-kit-sbf-bell/?fbclid=IwAR2xlk9sCX4Mrnm83Fm86cArSE7kCfTYKPIixwJR VU3uKpAtArlaQLehxac). My opinion is that due to the tight 180 degree bend the cable does not slide in the sleeve as easily and cleanly as it should, would not recommend the cable, should have gone with the hydraulic or hydraulic assist.
135781 You can see it coming out of the firewall and looping back, its not a straight shot.

As always, HAVE FUN!!

Good advice...and Thanks for the links, I'll start doing some research on a similar set up for a T5 tranny.

FWIW, I actually didn't go with the cable route out of cost concerns, I went with it because I "assumed" the cable routing was well thought out by FFR and it was the most straight forward application.....sounds like it's not

Thanks again

[33fromSD]

Yes put sealer on the frame between it and every panel to cut down on rattle. I also used it at the seams between the panel. Note there is an aluminum colored GE Silicone II if you can find it.

Do you have the FFR heat and sound insulation package? If so, there is a piece that goes between the gas tank and the aluminum underneath it. Now would be a good time to put that on. The manual has you installing the tank long before it talks about the insulation...

Steve

Hi Steve

Do you happen to remember the shape of that insulation piece between the aluminum and the gas tank? I brought the box home from storage thinking how hard can it be to find that piece of insulation mat and nothing in the box resembles the shape of the gas tank shelf. It's a bit embarrassing to say i'm being tripped up by a piece of insulation mat. :(

[tony]

I went with the hydraulic kit from modern driveline. Pretty sure they have a t5 setup similar to this. Very happy with it. I installed the cable first as well and immediately went with hydraulic. www.moderndriveline.com

[33fromSD]

Thanks Tony

[JimLev]

Hi Steve

Do you happen to remember the shape of that insulation piece between the aluminum and the gas tank? I brought the box home from storage thinking how hard can it be to find that piece of insulation mat and nothing in the box resembles the shape of the gas tank shelf. It's a bit embarrassing to say i'm being tripped up by a piece of insulation mat. :(

I didn’t get any insulation between the aluminum panel and gas tank. Looking at the manual and figuring out where they all go there wasn’t a piece in my kit or one shown in my manual. Maybe is it included in the Gen 2 kit?

[FF33rod]

I have a gen1 kit, shipped late 2018. Hot rod insulation instructions were separate, I have digital copy, revB from 2015.
http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/content/instructions/33989-hot-rod-insulation.pdf
Piece was rectangular. Here's a snapshot from those separate instructions.
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Note in the instructions they say it's for the waterfall but this is where they show it in the pic.

Steve

[33fromSD]

I have a gen1 kit, shipped late 2018. Hot rod insulation instructions were separate, I have digital copy, revB from 2015.
http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/content/instructions/33989-hot-rod-insulation.pdf
Piece was rectangular. Here's a snapshot from those separate instructions.
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Note in the instructions they say it's for the waterfall but this is where they show it in the pic.

Steve

Thanks Steve...yeah unfortunately there were no location instruction that I found (I checked all the boxes and nothing in the manual) which is fine, after about an hour of placing all the various pieces I figured it out. By process of elimination I came up with the exact sheet that you show.

I didn't like how that sheet however didn't cover the whole shelf and left portion of the tank with nothing under it so I grabbed similar material I have for my 55 F100 and filled in the whole shelf under the tank.

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[AJT '33]

I have a gen1 kit, shipped late 2018. Hot rod insulation instructions were separate, I have digital copy, revB from 2015.
http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/content/instructions/33989-hot-rod-insulation.pdf
Piece was rectangular. Here's a snapshot from those separate instructions.
135799

Note in the instructions they say it's for the waterfall but this is where they show it in the pic.

Steve

I glued mine on the waterfall and then added some more where it did not cover it properly. Did not place anything under the tank other then some flat rubber isolators where the attachment points were. This winter I will be sealing off the waterfall better to buffer the exhaust sounds that you hear through the seatbelt slots. Most likely design and 3D print removable plugs to fill the space but just hold the straps.

[AJT '33]

I went with the hydraulic kit from modern driveline. Pretty sure they have a t5 setup similar to this. Very happy with it. I installed the cable first as well and immediately went with hydraulic. www.moderndriveline.com

Tony, do you have a part number you could share with a few pics of your setup??

[33fromSD]

Tony, do you have a part number you could share with a few pics of your setup??

Yes...I'd like to know this too. ;)

[FF33rod]

Thanks Steve...yeah unfortunately there were no location instruction that I found (I checked all the boxes and nothing in the manual) which is fine...

Yeah, there are extra AC, power windows, and insulation instructions on the web site (along with others!). Best thing to do when you get your kit is to download everything that is applicable so you have them on hand.... Note, the AC unit has now changed and the instructions along with it. If anyone has a gen1 kit and doesnt have the extra instructions I have a link for it (also appears in my build thread).

In the end, I didn't put that insulation piece under the tanks as my tank was already installed. I did exactly has Andreas outlined - put it on the waterfall and added more to get better coverage.

Steve

[progmgr1]

I think that the problem is that the optimal approach is different depending on what makes your build unique. For example, I welded on running board supports and an extension in the back, so I ordered the chassis without powder coating. I also added several other custom features that aren't part of the FFR design. My plan is to build up the entire car, do some shakedown drives, then tear down the whole thing and get the chassis powder coated - maybe while the body is being painted. My goal is to work out any issues ahead of time and so avoid drilling any more holes in the frame after powder coating. Obviously, this approach is better for a car more on the "custom" end of the spectrum and is not recommended for everyone. If you are building a basic car without any changes to the kit, then a completely different build plan would probably be best, IMHO. Keith HR #894

[33fromSD]

Fuel tank & accessories mounted, trunk hinges installed to be sure tank is centered between the hinges and the aluminum plate behind the tank temporarily installed

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[1932]

From the CUSTOM side , you really need to work up your build first as much as possible because it gets harder to work in changes. Some things are hard to see ( as in some things or parts not working well together, or as seen in our mind ) and yes it is more money and work! But you end up with a one off car that came from your mind!

[33fromSD]

Busy evening....got the front brakes assembled and ready to be plumbed. Also installed the inner foam (very hard, dense stuff) between the frame partitions for the floor and then drilled and hand riveted ~100 rivets into the floor. Glad that is done. Of course my pneumatic rivet gun started leaking fluid after the 4th rivet so I had to go back to manual; riveting. :(

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[33fromSD]

Very little done on the car this weekend...I did get the insulation on the inside of the firewall over the sound deadener so I can start on the pedal box & steering column next.

I spent most of the weekend doing winter prep outside (building a shed, filling the shed with patio furniture, cutting down flowers, bushes, other landscaping, trimming trees and of course picking up leaves). Next weekend (shouldn't be the whole weekend) I need to finish up outside.

I needed to set the right example for my kids who are older now. Their whole lives I've harped on them that chores come before fun stuff so as much as I would have loved to work on the car all weekend long I figured I'd look like a hypocrite if I did that verses my chores.

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[JimLev]

I'm guessing that you probably have a Gen 2 kit so this part should be the same as my Gen 1 kit.
Where the body meets the back side of the firewall you'll need to trim off the foam sound deadening material so the body fits flush to the aluminum firewall.
Easier to do it now than later when you have a lot of parts mounted behind the firewall.

[33fromSD]

I'm guessing that you probably have a Gen 2 kit so this part should be the same as my Gen 1 kit.
Where the body meets the back side of the firewall you'll need to trim off the foam sound deadening material so the body fits flush to the aluminum firewall.
Easier to do it now than later when you have a lot of parts mounted behind the firewall.

Thanks for the heads up Jim, do you remember how much needs to be trimmed off? 1/2".... less...more?

[FF33rod]

Thanks for the heads up Jim, do you remember how much needs to be trimmed off? 1/2".... less...more?

good tip from Jim, you can actually measure the amount - go over to the body and measure the "flange" around the firewall area. I think it's more than 1/2" probably around 3/4

Steve

[33fromSD]

good tip from Jim, you can actually measure the amount - go over to the body and measure the "flange" around the firewall area. I think it's more than 1/2" probably around 3/4

Steve

Thanks Steve

[33fromSD]

Agree with RoadRacer, I installed the clutch cable and will be replacing the cable with a hydraulic system from Mike Forte (https://fortesparts.com/product/fortes-tko-600-hydraulic-clutch-kit/) or similar system (https://www.moderndriveline.com/shop/hydraulic-clutch-kits/slave-cylinders/ford-slave/external-hydraulic-slave-kit-sbf-bell/?fbclid=IwAR2xlk9sCX4Mrnm83Fm86cArSE7kCfTYKPIixwJR VU3uKpAtArlaQLehxac). My opinion is that due to the tight 180 degree bend the cable does not slide in the sleeve as easily and cleanly as it should, would not recommend the cable, should have gone with the hydraulic or hydraulic assist.
135781 You can see it coming out of the firewall and looping back, its not a straight shot.

As always, HAVE FUN!!

Just got off the phone with Mike Forte, nice guy. I asked if the kit in the link provided by AJT '33 (TKO-600 Hydraulic Clutch Kit https://fortesparts.com/product/fort...ic-clutch-kit/ ) will fit my T5 and Mike said nope, you'll need a different bracket. I asked if there was a part number for the kit with the bracket I needed and he said no, he just pieces it together and it will be the same price as the TKO-660 kit so he took my information, I gave him my CC info and it will ship tomorrow.

The kit like the one for the TKO-600 comes with master cylinder, slave cylinder, push rods, fork, bracket, HW & hoses, I just need to drill two holes in the bell housing.

Should be here by the end if the week.

To everyone who changed my mind about the clutch cable, Thanks much, I appreciate you sharing your experiences and providing a better solution.

[AJT '33]

Just got off the phone with Mike Forte, nice guy. I asked if the kit in the link provided by AJT '33 (TKO-600 Hydraulic Clutch Kit https://fortesparts.com/product/fort...ic-clutch-kit/ ) will fit my T5 and Mike said nope, you'll need a different bracket. I asked if there was a part number for the kit with the bracket I needed and he said no, he just pieces it together and it will be the same price as the TKO-660 kit so he took my information, I gave him my CC info and it will ship tomorrow.

The kit like the one for the TKO-600 comes with master cylinder, slave cylinder, push rods, fork, bracket, HW & hoses, I just need to drill two holes in the bell housing.

Should be here by the end if the week.

To everyone who changed my mind about the clutch cable, Thanks much, I appreciate you sharing your experiences and providing a better solution.

Now we will be looking to you to see how it installed so we can make our lives easier to install as well. As I have a TKO600 I would expect that his base kit will install easily. Following!

[33fromSD]

Now we will be looking to you to see how it installed so we can make our lives easier to install as well. As I have a TKO600 I would expect that his base kit will install easily. Following!

Once I receive it, I'll provide pics and any instructions / learnings as I got through it.

[33fromSD]

Got the Willwood pedal box, brake master cylinders and brake reservoir installed last night. plumbed the reservoir side of the brake system.

I still need to plumb the brake lines. I'll wait on this though until my upper control arms for the rear 4-link suspension arrive so I can install the differential and brakes.

Still need to install the master cylinder for the hydraulic clutch kit when it arrives from Mike Forte.

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[AJT '33]

Got the Willwood pedal box, brake master cylinders and brake reservoir installed last night. plumbed the reservoir side of the brake system.

I still need to plumb the brake lines. I'll wait on this though until my upper control arms for the rear 4-link suspension arrive so I can install the differential and brakes.

Still need to install the master cylinder for the hydraulic clutch kit when it arrives from Mike Forte.

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You may want to keep in mind the location of the reservoir if your running with a hood to ensure that there is no interferences. Typically I suggest that anything in the area of the hood pins be left off until the hood is installed and the pins located otherwise you may be relocating the reservoir and having holes to fill. Just a thought.
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[33fromSD]

You may want to keep in mind the location of the reservoir if your running with a hood to ensure that there is no interferences. Typically I suggest that anything in the area of the hood pins be left off until the hood is installed and the pins located otherwise you may be relocating the reservoir and having holes to fill. Just a thought.
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Thanks AJT '33.... I spent quite a bit of time looking at the body / hood to try to get a location that wouldn't interfere. I's actually mounted right on the same location the hole for the clutch cable would have gone so I figured if the bulky clutch cable didn't interfere the reservoir shouldn't either, but I'll definitely check everything again before getting too far.

[33fromSD]

I order the steering column unfinished since I was going to either paint it black, or the body color verses the chromed version option but like I did with the front suspension this thing buffed up so nice that I just sprayed clear on it so it retains the machine finish while not having to worry about it rusting.

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[FF33rod]

Thanks AJT '33.... I spent quite a bit of time looking at the body / hood to try to get a location that wouldn't interfere. I's actually mounted right on the same location the hole for the clutch cable would have gone so I figured if the bulky clutch cable didn't interfere the reservoir shouldn't either, but I'll definitely check everything again before getting too far.

I was thinking the same as Andreas but then realized, looks like you have the gen 2 - I believe the new hood arrangement deletes the pins so you shouldn't have to worry. Keep the middle of the firewall clear though for the latch mechanism.

Steve

[33fromSD]

I was thinking the same as Andreas but then realized, looks like you have the gen 2 - I believe the new hood arrangement deletes the pins so you shouldn't have to worry. Keep the middle of the firewall clear though for the latch mechanism.

Steve

Yes, I have the Gen2...Thanks Steve

[e36m3]

Great progress, you and I are both building 302 with T5. Subscribed.

[33fromSD]

Great progress, you and I are both building 302 with T5. Subscribed.

Awesome...hope things are going well on your end.

[33fromSD]

Not the steering rack housing itself, but did any of you find the "center" of the rack before attaching the tie rods to the spindles and completing the steering rod joints.

I've seen a lot of post for this on the MK4 but I didn't see any for the 33 HR...wondering if anyone centered their rack on their 33 HR and if yes, what procedure did you follow?

Thanks

Adding the procedure I'm used to doing on other racks...wondering why this wouldn't work...I do it installed in the car by the way verses on a bench

On a bench, turn the pinion out to lock one way. Measure from a convenient point to the end of the inner tie rod. (This rack was 17 3⁄4). Turn the pinion of the opposite lock position and measure from the same point to the end of the same tie rod (11 3⁄4). 17 3⁄4 minus 11 3⁄4 = 6. Divided by 2 = 3 Add that number to the smallest measurement (11 3⁄4” + 3” = 14 3⁄4”) and turn the pinion back till you get that measurement and your rack is centered.

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[FF33rod]

Yes. Process was count the number of turns lock to lock. Now put it in the center (by moving half the turns) and mount the steering wheel so it's centered. Adjust tie rods accordingly....

[33fromSD]

I just ran out to the garage real quick to do this, and on the 33 HR I measured it on the driver's side from the end of the threaded tie rod shaft to the metal lip on the rack housing where the edge of the boot meets.

Turning all the way out to the stop I measure 15.5", turning all the way in to the other stop, I measure 11", so the difference is 4.5"; half of which is 2.25" so adding 2.25" to 11" that's 13.25" so I turn the rack until i measure 13.25 at my reference point and low and behold the notch in the steering shaft is pointing up to where it was when I started. I guess it was centered from the factory.

[JimLev]

Yes. Process was count the number of turns lock to lock. Now put it in the center (by moving half the turns) and mount the steering wheel so it's centered. Adjust tie rods accordingly....

Did it this way too.

[33fromSD]

Did it this way too.

Thanks All, I appreciate the input on the steering

[33fromSD]

Got all the steering shafts routed, and tightened up. The steering is nice and smooth with no tightness.

A lot of weird angles though in all the shafts, whoever designed this must of liked working with erector sets as a kid. Also got the tie rods loosely installed. Once I get the wheels I'll install them and try to get the toe as close as I can and then torque down the tie rods.

I'll be removing the steering wheel and storing it so it doesn't get damaged, I just wanted to make sure the steering was smooth using the wheel.

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[JOP33]

I suggest dimpling the rods (steering rods) where the set screws hit just a bit with a drill and then of course on final fit-up, some red loctite. These connections I regularly check with maintenance and have found them loose once (even with the aforementioned precautions).

Nice job!

[33fromSD]

I suggest dimpling the rods (steering rods) where the set screws hit just a bit with a drill and then of course on final fit-up, some red loctite. These connections I regularly check with maintenance and have found them loose once (even with the aforementioned precautions).

Nice job!

Already one-step ahead....once I figured out the positioning I dimpled them and I added red loctite, but I absolutely appreciate the advice / heads up.

I will definitely add checking connections to my regular maintenance routine.

[33fromSD]

Lots of stuff done today:

* Installed hydraulic clutch M/C
* Plumbed hydraulic clutch reservoir
* Fitted engine mounts
* fitted transmission mount
* installed engine ground strap on frame
* plumbed fuel line

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[33fromSD]

More pics.... waiting on some AN-fittings to finish plumbing the fuel pump.

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[RoadRacer]

Very nice.

Just want to remind you to take the brake lines as tight (and as horizontal as poss, less vertical) as you can coming out of the master cylinders. I didn't have my body and didn't put enough thought into it.. but the gauges may be right in the same space as these brake lines, if you want to see them through steering wheel. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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[33fromSD]

Very nice.

Just want to remind you to take the brake lines as tight (and as horizontal as poss, less vertical) as you can coming out of the master cylinders. I didn't have my body and didn't put enough thought into it.. but the gauges may be right in the same space as these brake lines, if you want to see them through steering wheel. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

136206

Thanks for the heads up on the brake lines...I appreciate the insight

[progmgr1]

.. but the gauges may be right in the same space as these brake lines, if you want to see them through steering wheel. 136206

I've got a Gen 1 Hot Rod and the kit included Master Cylinders that are slightly different style from those shown in your photos. I have a Dakota Digital instrument cluster that I want to center over the steering column. I found that there is no space behind the dashboard to recess the cluster. If you are using individual instruments it may be possible to install them above the MC, but maybe then they will be out of your line of sight. The solution I'm investigating now is the Whitby power brake system - it eliminates the MC in the pedal box entirely. I'm not sure yet if the Whitby booster will fit with my Coyote engine, but I doubt that would be an issue with your SBC. Of course, you can always install the instruments in the "stock" position, centered over the transmission tunnel, and avoid the issue altogether. Keith HR #894

[33fromSD]

I've got a Gen 1 Hot Rod and the kit included Master Cylinders that are slightly different style from those shown in your photos. I have a Dakota Digital instrument cluster that I want to center over the steering column. I found that there is no space behind the dashboard to recess the cluster. If you are using individual instruments it may be possible to install them above the MC, but maybe then they will be out of your line of sight. The solution I'm investigating now is the Whitby power brake system - it eliminates the MC in the pedal box entirely. I'm not sure yet if the Whitby booster will fit with my Coyote engine, but I doubt that would be an issue with your SBC. Of course, you can always install the instruments in the "stock" position, centered over the transmission tunnel, and avoid the issue altogether. Keith HR #894

Thanks Keith....I too went with the Dakota Digital Instrument cluster but I haven't given a lot of thought where I'm going to place it yet (stock or other). I'll look into the Whitby power brake system. Thanks for the heads up.

[33fromSD]

To those with Gen2 kits...what is this part of the frame for that I've circled in the attached pic. I'm going to be installing a 4 link suspension (FFR's Moser reared) but I don't believe this is for the 4-link suspension.....or is it? Thanks Jim

136243

[Blade]

That is for the 3 link. I was told to just leave it. After the body goes on it kinda doesn't get seen. The logic for leaving it is if you or next owner want to change to 3 link.
Dean

[33fromSD]

That is for the 3 link. I was told to just leave it. After the body goes on it kinda doesn't get seen. The logic for leaving it is if you or next owner want to change to 3 link.
Dean

Thanks Dean....appreciate the response...I won't worry about it then considering I'm doing a 4-Link suspension.

Now if only my upper control arms would get here from FFR I could install the moser rearend.

[33fromSD]

Finished up plumbing the front brake lines last night......kept things low and tight in the pedal box area and stuck close to the frame where-ever possible. Working in the front shock area was fun but it turned out okay so I'm happy.

Still waiting on my 90 degree 3 AN male to 1/8 NPT 90 degree fitting for the hydraulic clutch M/C

Also brought home the engine/tranny so I can swap out the valve covers & air cleaner with the ones I bought (went with black with red lettering Ford Racing covers, air cleaner & breather). Also need to remove the mechanical fuel pump and get the block off plate installed since I installed an electrical fuel pump.

The rear brake line is ran to about mid chassis, I'll finish that up one of these nights.

Will start on the electrical next.

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[junglejim]

To those with Gen2 kits...what is this part of the frame for that I've circled in the attached pic. I'm going to be installing a 4 link suspension (FFR's Moser reared) but I don't believe this is for the 4-link suspension.....or is it? Thanks Jim

136243

After reading another post concerning the drill shavings going down your neck if you drill the floor rivets from under the car, I decided to flip my frame & drill the holes downward. Imagine my surprise when, after looking at the frame upside down, I see the panhard bar mount for the 3 link sticking up in the air. Then I realized there were no mountings for my IRS. That was 2 weeks ago. Still waiting on the frame I ordered.

[McGuyver]

Jim, you are moving right along! You may want to check your front shocks and verify if they can be run body up like you have them.

[33fromSD]

Jim, you are moving right along! You may want to check your front shocks and verify if they can be run body up like you have them.

Doh.... good catch...for some reason when I read body down my mind was thinking the spring down.... I'll switch with them around, THANK YOU for pointing that out. I appreciate the feedback.

[33fromSD]

After reading another post concerning the drill shavings going down your neck if you drill the floor rivets from under the car, I decided to flip my frame & drill the holes downward. Imagine my surprise when, after looking at the frame upside down, I see the panhard bar mount for the 3 link sticking up in the air. Then I realized there were no mountings for my IRS. That was 2 weeks ago. Still waiting on the frame I ordered.

Any ETA on when you're supposed to get your replacement frame Jim? That would really stink, sorry to hear that. I'm still waiting on my upper control arms to be able to install the moser 4-Link rear-end....talked with FFR the other day, sounds like it's shipping early next week. Hope my wheels /tires ship too, I'd like to get this to a rolling chassis so I can drip the engine / transmission in soon. Discovered yesterday FFR errored and sent two right side motor mounts so they are shipping a new set out which should be here this weekend.

On your comment about the shaving going down you neck, yeah, that would suck.....as I mentioned earlier in the thread I was glad I have the lift so I could do that part standing up (along with brake lines and fuel line, etc.). Before buying the lift I remember welding a bracket under one of my classic mustangs laying on the ground and a weld splatter went down my shirt....HOLY COW, I couldn't get out from under the car fast enough. :)

[junglejim]

I was told it would ship Tuesday the 13th. Emailed for update o status Friday the 16th, since I had heard nothing. Got a short reply that the kit was packed and the body (I had originally ordered only the stage 1 kit, but decided since I had to send the frame back, to buy the complete kit) was "out back" whatever that means.

[33fromSD]

I was told it would ship Tuesday the 13th. Emailed for update o status Friday the 16th, since I had heard nothing. Got a short reply that the kit was packed and the body (I had originally ordered only the stage 1 kit, but decided since I had to send the frame back, to buy the complete kit) was "out back" whatever that means.

Hopefully it shipped for you... I just got a Fed-Ex tracking number so I'm hoping that means at least my upper controls shipped. I hoping my rims / tires shipped too, but I have some old ones laying around if they don't Good luck

[33fromSD]

Doh.... good catch...for some reason when I read body down my mind was thinking the spring down.... I'll switch with them around, THANK YOU for pointing that out. I appreciate the feedback.

Front shocks switched around...Thanks again McGuyver

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[33fromSD]

Rear brakes pliumbed

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[33fromSD]

Fuse box mounted....haven't done anything with routing the main cable yet, I started from the rear so I do have the rear harness routed / installed.

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[33fromSD]

In parallel to the 33 HR build I have a 55 F100 frame off restoration going on as well...finished up the frame / suspension on that this weekend started working on rust proofing components on the box so I can get that assembled.

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[33fromSD]

Finished roughing in the wiring...I'll do all the physical connecting once I get the engine installed and I'll then rough in for gauges.

Rear upper control arms for the 4-link rear came in yesterday so I'll start on the rear next. Then I can get this thing off the jack stands

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[FF33rod]

Not doing heat/AC? just noticed where you put the wiring through the firewall (vs the trans tunnel)...
Steve

[33fromSD]

Not doing heat/AC? just noticed where you put the wiring through the firewall (vs the trans tunnel)...
Steve

Nope...no heat / AC

I'm used to all my classics which are convertibles not having AC and as far as heat goes.....there will be plenty of heat from the engine and exhaust right under the passenger compartment.

Also, I went with the rag top verses hard top

[TxMike64]

Not doing heat/AC? just noticed where you put the wiring through the firewall (vs the trans tunnel)...
Steve

This guy here in Texas laughing at guy from BC unbelievably questioning a guy from SD about not installing AC in a street rod....
I may be ignorant here, but I'd think the climate in Couve is pretty mild, and can't imagine it gets very hot in Rapid...

It'll be a cool 90*F here today.

[33fromSD]

4-Link rear end installed; bolts not tightened yet. I'll torque the bolts once it's on the ground.

I'll start on the rear brakes tomorrow

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[HVACMAN]

This guy here in Texas laughing at guy from BC unbelievably questioning a guy from SD about not installing AC in a street rod....
I may be ignorant here, but I'd think the climate in Couve is pretty mild, and can't imagine it gets very hot in Rapid...

It'll be a cool 90*F here today.

With 110% humidity. lol

[FF33rod]

This guy here in Texas laughing at guy from BC unbelievably questioning a guy from SD about not installing AC in a street rod....


That would be funny, except that wasn't my intent at least. No idea what options he has or hasn't but just wanted to make sure that he thought about that wiring routing if he did plan on putting heat/AC in.

[33fromSD]

That would be funny, except that wasn't my intent at least. No idea what options he has or hasn't but just wanted to make sure that he thought about that wiring routing if he did plan on putting heat/AC in.

And I do appreciate you looking out for me. Always better to question something in my opinion.

[33fromSD]

Rear brakes installed, still need to do the emergency brake

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[33fromSD]

Engine/tranny installed, haven't bolted anything down yet in case I need to lift it a bit to get the shorty headers on.

Sunday (10/25) will be 1 month since the kit was delivered.....progress has been pretty good.

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[JOP33]

Engine/tranny installed, haven't bolted anything down yet in case I need to lift it a bit to get the shorty headers on.

Sunday (10/25) will be 1 month since the kit was delivered.....progress has been pretty good.

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Nice progress!

[33fromSD]

Installed shorty headers, swapped valve covers & air cleaner, repositioned alternator (waiting on new belt to arrive), and installed engine ground.

Before:
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After:
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Also clearance the rear upper control arms on my Moser 8.8" 4-link rear end
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[33fromSD]

Also ordered a black distributor cap...the HEI distributor with the coil pack built in is huge and now that I changed to black valve covers and black air cleaner the distributor cap sticks out like a sore thumb being baby blue.

[1932]

Ha HA that is how things go !

[33fromSD]

Assembled & installed emergency brake handle and routed cables....I'll adjust the system once the wheels are on

Got a Fed-Ex update from FFR yesterday that Rims / Tires expected early next week....Yay!!

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[e36m3]

Engine/tranny installed, haven't bolted anything down yet in case I need to lift it a bit to get the shorty headers on.

Sunday (10/25) will be 1 month since the kit was delivered.....progress has been pretty good.

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136672

You are making great progress!
This weekend my son will be home so we're going to drop in my 302 and T5. The FFR book pictures of the tranny bracket are too low of resolution to determine which way the u shaped part of the tranny bracket mounts to the frame. So I was very interested in your pictures, thanks for sharing them. Have you checked the transmission angle to the rear end on your car yet?

[33fromSD]

You are making great progress!
This weekend my son will be home so we're going to drop in my 302 and T5. The FFR book pictures of the tranny bracket are too low of resolution to determine which way the u shaped part of the tranny bracket mounts to the frame. So I was very interested in your pictures, thanks for sharing them. Have you checked the transmission angle to the rear end on your car yet?

Right now the the tranny angle is up and the differential is down which is how it should be but to what actual degrees I don't know yet, I won't take any actually degree measurements until I have it sitting on it's wheels which are expected early next week. If I had to guess I would say I'm ~2* up by the tranny and ~2* down by the diff.

Here is a close up of the tranny mount. The T5 mounted to a 302 is going to use the 1st slot in the frame. You can see how I positioned the bracket. I did not use the spacers, the angle was way too high with the spacers.

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[33fromSD]

The following was completed tonight:
* 6" Lokar shift handle installed (waiting on shift knob to arrive)
* Drive Shaft installed
* Rear aluminum panel glued / riveted in
* Aluminum tunnel cover riveted in

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[33fromSD]

Installed the stainless steel exhaust system (fitted the tips also, but just for the pic, I'll remove those now for safe keeping).

Also Installed the trunk pan.

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[33fromSD]

Ha I say.... Now my friend owes me $100 and 2 cases of beer :o:o

Back story on that...The engine / tranny came assembled from BluePrint engines and since they ran the whole unit I know all the alignment was properly set so I didn't want to remove the tranny/bellhousing to install Mike Forte's bracket for the slave cylinder so I installed the engine and tranny in the car as you know.

In order to install Mike's bracket you have to drill 3/8" holes through the bell housing. Are you cringing yet? I was studying to figure out if I could do it. About that time my friend comes in the garage to check out the 33's progress and asked what I was looking at, and I explained it to him and he basically said "man, you're screwed....at a minimum you're going to have to pull the tranny.". I said nope, I bet I can figure out a way too do it with everything in the car and leave no metal shavings inside the bell housing.

He hates to lose and I love a good challenge so he said "No way, I'll bet you $100 and 2 cases of beer that you'll never do it.".

Okay, so to my lack of admission at the time, I had to do something similar about 2 years back and it's really tough to do but I knew it could be done.

I pulled out the 12" long 1/8", 3/16", 5/16", 1/4" and 3/8" drill bits, as well as the gorilla tape (really sticky stuff, don't try this with normal duct tape). My friend was scratching his head at this point wondering what I was trying to do.

I removed the reverse switch from the side of the tranny so I had a straight shot to the area I needed to drill.

The trick is going slow, but basically you take a 2"x2" piece of gorilla tape, put it inside the bell housing in the area you're going to drill making sure the tape is stuck really well under the hole you're drilling, and then while drilling slow (it's only aluminum so low rpm is fine), as you feel the drill bit coming through the other side, press the gorilla tape around the hole to capture the metal shavings (the majority are pulled out from the outside anyway). Remove the drill bit, repress on the tape all around the hole, and then slowly pull the tape out, and the metal shaving will be stuck to the tape.

Rinse and repeat for every hole size drilled but be sure to use a new piece of tape each time.

20 minutes later, my friend was speechless except to say "sure, you got the holes drill but there has to be metal shaving on the inside", so I pulled out the endoscope I had, and let him explore the inside of bell housing and he just stood up and said "Crap...I'll stop by next week with the money and beer".

Not for the faint of heart, and actually putting on the nuts on the inside of the bellhousing made me more nervous but it beats all the additional time that it would have taken to do this with the tranny off the bell hosing.

so, bracket is installed and I also installed the clevis bracket on the fork handle. This weekend I'll install the slave cylinder and run the line to the mater cylinder.

136933

[RoadRacer]

LOL, good job!

But, let's back up.. you have a 12" long 1/8" bit? I can't even imagine how that works. I snap my 1/8" bits daily.. a 12" one??? Damn

[33fromSD]

LOL, good job!

But, let's back up.. you have a 12" long 1/8" bit? I can't even imagine how that works. I snap my 1/8" bits daily.. a 12" one??? Damn

Yup.....12" 1/8 bit...but keep in mind I'm drilling into aluminum at a slow speed, I would never use it on steel....like you said, it would snap or bend in an instance in that situation at higher speeds.

I primarily only use the longer ones for softer metal or wood.

[e36m3]

You sir are a better mechanic than I.
Didn't know they made 12" long 1/8" bits.

[33fromSD]

For those doing Mike Forte's Hydraulic Clutch system on a T5, it's pretty straight forward...here is what I did:

1) Drill 2 holes in the bellhousing using the bracket as a template
2) mount bracket inside bellhousing
3) mount clevis bracket onto clutch fork
4) Figure out how much you need to cut off the pushrod...in my case it was 1-3/6", that left me about 1/8" end play
5) install slave cylinder to bracket on T5
6) Install pushrod on clevis pin
7) plumb hydraulic line
8) Bleed system (I still need to do this)
9) adjust accordingly (I still need to do this but I'm pretty close I'm guessing)

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[rapidray]

Your build looks fantastic. I was looking at your tranny mount and noticed that you flipped the mount. I mounted mine with the u pointed down as that was the only way to get my pinion angle correct. I would just move the rear jack stands to the differential and check the angle again. The car does not really settle that much when on the ground as it does not weigh very much. I used the Tremec tool app on my smart phone to check the angle as its very simple. I will enclose a picture that I used to get it close. A lot of folks have had problems with this part of the build. Ray

[RoadRacer]

It may not settle much, but your set ride height makes a huge difference to the angles here. I couldn't get anywhere close to ok, but my ride height was 2" out. With the right heights, it was super easy to get it right. I was surprised how much the ride height affected this part.

[33fromSD]

Your build looks fantastic. I was looking at your tranny mount and noticed that you flipped the mount. I mounted mine with the u pointed down as that was the only way to get my pinion angle correct. I would just move the rear jack stands to the differential and check the angle again. The car does not really settle that much when on the ground as it does not weigh very much. I used the Tremec tool app on my smart phone to check the angle as its very simple. I will enclose a picture that I used to get it close. A lot of folks have had problems with this part of the build. Ray

Thanks Ray..... I'll dig into this.

[33fromSD]

Took a break from the FFR 33 Hot Rod this weekend to work on my 55 F100. I sprayed rust proofing on the inside of the rear fenders and since my motor mounts came in Friday I decided to get the 302 / AOD tranny installed. Went pretty well.

May have to call TCI for some softer coil springs, that little SBF barely cause the front suspension to budge.

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[33fromSD]

Your build looks fantastic. I was looking at your tranny mount and noticed that you flipped the mount. I mounted mine with the u pointed down as that was the only way to get my pinion angle correct. I would just move the rear jack stands to the differential and check the angle again. The car does not really settle that much when on the ground as it does not weigh very much. I used the Tremec tool app on my smart phone to check the angle as its very simple. I will enclose a picture that I used to get it close. A lot of folks have had problems with this part of the build. Ray

Question on this Ray.....I know the 33 HR is set up with the tranny tail up and the yoke on the diff down but I just helped my neighbor change leaf springs in his late 80's F150 this afternoon and I notice that his tranny tail was down and his yoke on the diff was up (opposite the 33 HR), and I think my classic mustangs are the same.

This got me thinking...in general, it doesn't matter if the tranny tail is up or down as long as its opposite to the yoke on the diff (and equally opposite in degrees) right? The goal is to get the yoke centerlines parallel to within .05" correct?

[33fromSD]

Black distributor cap arrived and installed...in my opinion at least, it looks much better than the baby blue one

Old set up:
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New set up:
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[33fromSD]

Installed the dip stick last night...which I know, everyone is thinking how hard is that but this has been the b***hiest thing I've done on this project yet. I had to bend it around the headers cause there sure ain't no way it was going through them. The original dipstick was basically a gradual curve.... fun, fun but in the end it's done.

Also installed the trunk sides

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[FF33rod]

looking good. FWIW, I put the trunk sides on after the body was on. They make body placement extremely difficult as they tuck inside the rear pan. Also, until I install the body for the "last" time, I've used sheet metal screws not rivets so they are easily removed.

Also, I had a brain fart for some reason, and filled in those triangular access holes early on. Don't! They're helpful when figuring out where the hinges should attach to the trunk lid.

Steve

[33fromSD]

looking good. FWIW, I put the trunk sides on after the body was on. They make body placement extremely difficult as they tuck inside the rear pan. Also, until I install the body for the "last" time, I've used sheet metal screws not rivets so they are easily removed.

Also, I had a brain fart for some reason, and filled in those triangular access holes early on. Don't! They're helpful when figuring out where the hinges should attach to the trunk lid.

Steve

Thanks Steve.....good tips, easy enough to drill out the rivets and remove them now. I'll do that one of these nights

Although I'm slightly confused on the trunk sides. when the kit arrived in late September, I removed the sheet metal screws and I couldn't remove the trunk sides with the body still on no matter how I twisted them, pulled them , lifted them, etc. Once the body was off they removed easily so I was under the impression on the Gen 2 kit that the trunk sides go on before the body is installed.

[33fromSD]

FFR Bonneville rims w/ Micky Thompson tires just arrived, now I can get this thing off the jack stands

Front = 245/40R18
Rear = 305/35R20

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[33fromSD]

Off the jack stands!!

I've done nothing with ride height yet.

Next up in cooling system, wiring, add fluids and startup.

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[33fromSD]

33 HR signature grill installed...looks mean.....I know, I know....everyone's is the same, but honestly I could look at everyone's grill all day long, love the shape / look, it's one of the reasons I bought this kit. Love the 32 grill as well. Also started plumbing the cooling.

Not a big fan of how the lower hose hangs so low (excuse the pun) so I made a bracket to bring it closer to the frame. The pic of bracket is just after I painted it this morning, it will dry satin the same color as the frame. I'll install it tonight and send a pic of the difference.

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[FF33rod]

Great progress!
Giving the hose some support is a good idea but don't get too hung up on how low it appears at the moment. As long as it's above the lowest point on the grill, the "chin" will be underneath it once installed.

Steve

[33fromSD]

Great progress!
Giving the hose some support is a good idea but don't get too hung up on how low it appears at the moment. As long as it's above the lowest point on the grill, the "chin" will be underneath it once installed.

Steve

Yup...agree....more of an OCD thing for me than anything else

[33fromSD]

bracket installed on lower hose

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[33fromSD]

Upper radiator hose plumbed although I think I'm going to take the rubber ends / hose to an auto parts store and find a close matching rubber hose. Not liking this set up too much

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[33fromSD]

I have no luck with the search feature on this forum so apologize it the info exists

For a 302 in the 33 HR does anyone have a rubber coolant hose option for the top radiator hose? I really don't like one that comes with the kit?

If not like I note above I'll just take the hole assembly to the parts store and try to match one.

Not as concerned about the lower hose because I don't see it but I may look for a sub for that one too.

[FF33rod]

I used Replicaparts hoses top and bottom (and radiator shroud), much better than the corrugated stuff FFR provides. However, the top hose requires a 90 degree water neck as opposed to the one you installed

Steve

[rapidray]

It actually does matter as under acceleration the pinion gear wants to climb the ring gear according to everything I have ever read (makes sense) I believe Sethmark also took me to school on that one. They used to recommend a 4 degree offset but I understand with the new u-joint lubricants it can be smaller. Under full droop (wheels off the ground) my driveshaft clears the rear cross member only by an 1/8" or so. Numerous people have had this problem here. I have the 3 link rear suspension in mine and I actually had to lengthen my upper adjustment arm 2" to get it right. We discuss this issue in post 100 of my build if you are curious. After reading through your build pages I also noticed that you flipped your front shocks with the adjustment on the bottom, I was told by FFR that at their build school they now install them the other way (adjustment up) to ease adjustment. Ray

[33fromSD]

It actually does matter as under acceleration the pinion gear wants to climb the ring gear according to everything I have ever read (makes sense) I believe Sethmark also took me to school on that one. They used to recommend a 4 degree offset but I understand with the new u-joint lubricants it can be smaller. Under full droop (wheels off the ground) my driveshaft clears the rear cross member only by an 1/8" or so. Numerous people have had this problem here. I have the 3 link rear suspension in mine and I actually had to lengthen my upper adjustment arm 2" to get it right. We discuss this issue in post 100 of my build if you are curious. After reading through your build pages I also noticed that you flipped your front shocks with the adjustment on the bottom, I was told by FFR that at their build school they now install them the other way (adjustment up) to ease adjustment. Ray

Thanks Ray..... yeah, I thought I flipped my front shocks around on purpose for a reason when I first installed them but forgot why, so I flipped them back around per suggestions from others but now that you mentioned it, the reason I did it was after reading someone's comment (can't recall who) they noted build school informed them either way is fine but for easier adjustment, flipping them around with the adjustment up top is easiest. i think I'm going to flip them again..... getting pretty good at it. :)

[33fromSD]

When it comes to positioning the grill, is it just a matter of you'll know the right position when you do the fit of the hood, or is there a general "starting" spot to position the grill that will get it to close proximity of where it needs to be when the hood is fitting and then it's just minor tweaking?

I'm finding myself wasting time messing around with measuring radiator hoses and I stopped cause I think I'm going to use the ones that came with the kit for the initial start up / go-kart stage but then worry about the actual hoses (type / lengths) I want after the grill is positioned with the hood on so I know it's where it needs to be.

Is that what others did? Not much adjustment in the grill I'm seeing, but enough I guess where it may matter when final hose lengths / positioning needs to be figured out.

[FF33rod]

With the AC condenser and fan shroud all added to that front assembly there was very little adjustment that I could do. The prime concern was keeping the top of the shocks from hitting it. I wouldn't worry about the position from the hose length perspective, the hoses are plenty long enough. I'm not that familiar with gen 2 but make sure that the chin, side panels and hood are all long enough for the position you put it in...

Steve

[33fromSD]

With the AC condenser and fan shroud all added to that front assembly there was very little adjustment that I could do. The prime concern was keeping the top of the shocks from hitting it. I wouldn't worry about the position from the hose length perspective, the hoses are plenty long enough. I'm not that familiar with gen 2 but make sure that the chin, side panels and hood are all long enough for the position you put it in...

Steve

Thanks for the insight Steve

[33fromSD]

Haven't spent a lot of time on the 33 due to other stuff going on. I did get the coolant over flow tank mounted on the firewall and the battery mounted in the trunk and ran the cable to the motor only to find out the cable was about 12" too short and I didn't like the way the battery was mounted in the trunk (nothing wrong with it in theory, just not for me) so I stopped and jumped online to do some searching / shopping.

Found a nice battery box, longer cable and also figured out my coolant hoses for both the upper and lower sections. Should all be here later this week.

Then it's all about going nuts on the wiring and finishing that up, since after that all that is left is fluids, bleeding the brake and clutch system and see if she runs / drives.

Moving along.

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137410

[TxMike64]

137410

What battery is that? P/N?

I've had good luck with Super Start.

[33fromSD]

What battery is that? P/N?

I've had good luck with Super Start.

Yup, Super Start is good, I have them in a few of my classics...this one is from O'Reilly's.....part number is 51REXT ...

[33fromSD]

I guess I mis-led folks in my previous post (sorry).....I meant to say I found a "battery tray" not a battery box. Got the new tray yesterday and got it installed last night.

Again, nothing wrong with how FFR did it, my concern was that unless I tightened the snot out of the j-bolts (which is bad for the battery) the battery had a tendency to slide a bit on the aluminum panel. I'm not a fan of batteries walking so this new tray allows the battery bracket to only be snugged up but even then, the battery doesn't walk in the tray since it has tabs in the corner of the tray the same dimension as the 51R style batteries.

I may make a cover for it later on but for now it's good.

Other things done:
* Changed out the new battery cable.... now it's long enough
* Started wiring the engine:
+ Water Temp & Oil Sender wiring done
+ Starter is wired
+ Alternator is wired

Just need to wire up the coil, fuel pump, and the electric fan/temp sensor and the engine bay wiring is done, then I'll move on to the inside to rough in the gauge cluster

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[33fromSD]

Getting to that point where I'm making decisions without having stuff done which could be bad but in this case probably not......I replaced the shifter handle with a stubbier version....I felt like the 6" shift handle I originally went with was a little tall.

Of course not having the interior in to be able to see if this was a good move or not will be one of those "time will tell" moves. This new shifter reminds me a lot of the height I have in my 15 Challenger so I'm thinking it will be fine since I love that one.

Worst case once the interior is done I swap it back

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[FF33rod]

Easy swap if you dont like it. Unique design though, cool.
Mine is similar to your original but 8" long i believe, works well for me.
Makes the TKO600 easy to shift

Steve

[33fromSD]

Not much done on the 33 yesterday, I spent most of my Saturday in the shop tearing apart engine crates and other other crates I got from all the parts for the 55 & 33 that were delivered....then tore apart the 55's old box/bed which was a feat in itself with 65 years of rust, & road dirt. next loaded everything up in the trailer and ran to the dump...turns out I had 920 lbs of junk between scrap wood and old metal. Now I have a little more working room in the shop at least.

Came home, ran a few errands with the family and then worked on the 33 a little. I got the fuel line connected from pump to carb..little more time consuming than I thought, I had to take into account the line flexing if the engine moves.

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[sethmark]

You’re making great progress. With regard to your steering, go ahead and bite the bullet for power steering now. I drove the car a couple of thousand miles without it and while it’s certainly not unpleasant, it’s heavier than you really want it to be. I’ve played with alignment a lot and it’s still too heavy. Installing power steering currently.

[33fromSD]

You’re making great progress. With regard to your steering, go ahead and bite the bullet for power steering now. I drove the car a couple of thousand miles without it and while it’s certainly not unpleasant, it’s heavier than you really want it to be. I’ve played with alignment a lot and it’s still too heavy. Installing power steering currently.

Yeah, I've been thinking about that (a lot lately)...I may look into it.

Thanks for the heads up

[33fromSD]

Busy day....whole engine bay wired (coil, tach, electric choke, electric fan / temp switch, fuel pump and horns. I actually moved the horns close to the fire wall on the bottom frame rail (took a photo looking straight up the side to be sure they wouldn't interfere with the side panel.

Inside the car I wired the clutch & brake safety switches, the fuel sender, ignition switch, headlight switch and removed all of sensor wiring for the analog gauges since I'm going with the electronic gauges and they have their own wire harnesses,

Finally, I replaced the upper & lower flexible metal radiator hoses with rubber hoses (looks more finished with the rubber hoses in my opinion).

All I have left is to wire up the gauges, test the electrical & fill fluids. Getting close to go-kart step. :cool:

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[FF33rod]

Very productive day!

[33fromSD]

Yes, Very.... I'm trying to get the Go-Karting done before old man winter rears it's ugly head here. We've had a couple 5" snow falls already but luckily it all melted. Soon that will not be the case as the temps drop so I'd like to get it tested very soon with dry roads so over winter I can just concentrate on the body work.

[FF33rod]

Good strategy. We're already into our fall/winter season which means copious amounts of rain with temps 45-50F. We will only get snow occasionally for a day or two and that's usually in Jan and Feb...
The drive to "first start" is exciting! you can actually see the progress easily. Things slow right down with the body work...
Cheers

[TxMike64]

The rubber hoses look MUCH better!

[33fromSD]

Didn't want the gauge cluster or headlight & ignition switch just hanging loose when I get around to firing this thing up (hopefully this weekend) so I mocked up a panel to house everything while I finish up temporarily wiring the remaining items. I won't do any final cutting / solder of the main harness until I know where the gauge cluster is going to go yet.

I'd like the cluster to go right behind the steering wheel in the dash panel but as others had pointed out they had to shift it to the center of the dash due to the pedal box. I won't know if there is anything I can do about that until I get the body on and see what I'm working with.

137904

[33fromSD]

Very cool...... all the wiring is done (well, roughly connected to verify everything before I put the body on).

I just ran through a systems check, I have working DRLs, headlights (lo & hi) signal lights (front & rear), tail lights & brake lights in back, license plate lights work, hazards work, and horns works (wow.....very loud too).

Fuel pump works, coil is getting 12v, electric choke works, and I have 12V to the starter. The gauge cluster is picking up proper voltage, fuel level and GPS info (dir & elevation).

I'm going to spend most of tomorrow catching up on my 55 F100 build but I'm hoping Sunday I can get the fluids added (I did put oil in the crank case today before checking the electric in case the thing accidental turned over), mount the accelerator pedal, bleed the brakes and hydraulic clutch, and try to start / take this beast for a little ride around our block.

[33fromSD]

Its A-L-I-V-E!! First video is the 20 minute break in running at 2K+ (varying RPMs for 20 minutes), next video is car at normal idle (sorry about the fan noise, the electric fan was running alot), and then some pics of it outside after I took it around the block once or twice.....okay.....I mean 6 times. :)

Drives & runs great although I need to adjust the brakes some and the clutch (didn't like going into reverse).

Shared Album for videos = https://photos.app.goo.gl/FdVrKwH1rihTKZjG9 (hopefully this works)

Pretty pleased.......kit arrived 9/25 and 58 days later I'm go karting....now for the body which yes, I know will take longer.

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[j33ptj]

That idle sound is just beeeee uuuuuu teeeee fullllll!!!!

[RoadRacer]

Very nice - add a second spring to your throttle return though!

[33fromSD]

Very nice - add a second spring to your throttle return though!

Thanks...yeah, definitely..... I used the one that came with the accelerator pedal just to do the go-kart around the block but it was just that a trial thing...definitely adding a second spring

[33fromSD]

Got the push rod on the hydraulic slave cylinder adjusted last night, goes into gear a whole lot better now. :o

Been working with FFR on my front caliper, they are seeping brake fluid (not really dripping). I've tried the aluminum crush washers that came with the kit, switched to thicker copper washer, nothing worked. I think this is one of the cause of my brakes not being 100% right, the the other is I haven't played with the proportioning bar yet so that may help too..

I took some photos of the mating surfaces where the banjo fittings go and sent them to FFR. I'm guessing these are not new calipers we get probably re-man. The mating surfaces are pitted & corroded and the threads looks really chewed up.

When I got my kit I could screw the banjo bolts into the rear calipers with fingers only, no issue, on the fronts I couldn't, the bolts would screw in so I knew they were cross threading but I needed a wrench every 3/4 of a turn of the bolt to keep going, felt gritty in a sense, I know why now. Hoping FFR can get me new calipers.

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[33fromSD]

Front brake job (replacing the stock seeping calipers) is done, about ready to take it out around the block. Actually decided to upgrade brakes to drilled and slotted rotors, powder coated calipers and carbon ceramic brake pads...the whole kit came from PowerStop. Upgraded the stainless steel flex brake line too.

Also flipped the front coil over shocks upside down so I am able to easily adjust the coil now for proper ride height. When they were in the other way there was no way to get the adjustment tool in the space it was.

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[33fromSD]

Stops so much better now...I'm much happier with the brakes.

Also had my son take a small video (although he didn't take a very long one) of it physically being go-karted around the block so I have video evidence of it on the road. :o Sorry about the audio, it's 30-40 mph wind gust today in SoDak.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/FdVrKwH1rihTKZjG9

[33fromSD]

Brought the body home last night...now I'll start prepping everything on the chassis (removing the temporary stuff I installed for go-karting, adding the door hinge brackets & misc aluminum panels, etc) as well as prep the body (cut out the cowl access holes, holes for door hinges, tail light holes, etc.) to be able to get the body installed on the chassis.

138597

[33fromSD]

Did some prep work in order to get the body set on the chassis this weekend. Installed the door hinge brackets on the frame, cut the access holes in the cowl of the body and marked up the cut out for the door hinges as well as the fastener mounting line for the body on the door sill

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[narly1]

I was watching StreetRodJim's videos and noticed that making the roll bar holes in the waterfall is a bit of a PITA.

When you get to that task let me know, I have an idea that needs a guinea pig, LOL.

[33fromSD]

I was watching StreetRodJim's videos and noticed that making the roll bar holes in the waterfall is a bit of a PITA.

When you get to that task let me know, I have an idea that needs a guinea pig, LOL.

Will do :D

[narly1]

I was thinking that if you could find a short length of tubing that slips over the receiver you could angle cut the end of it to roughly match the back side surface of the waterfall. Then slide the tubing up against the waterfall with a blob of modelling clay in place to mark it for a pilot hole. Then use tape or a clamp to firmly butt the tubing up against the waterfall. Then go at it from the top side with a roto-zip bit in a Dremel, etc. to open up the hole.

[33fromSD]

I was thinking that if you could find a short length of tubing that slips over the receiver you could angle cut the end of it to roughly match the back side surface of the waterfall. Then slide the tubing up against the waterfall with a blob of modelling clay in place to mark it for a pilot hole. Then use tape or a clamp to firmly butt the tubing up against the waterfall. Then go at it from the top side with a roto-zip bit in a Dremel, etc. to open up the hole.

We are basically in sync....I was actually thinking about two methods:

1st Method) - Using a short piece of PVC piping to fit the hole with the general angle of the waterfall but then load the end of the tubing with chalk which would press against the waterfall as it comes down to mark the location on the inside of the waterfall.

2nd Method) Center a punch in the receiver some how, also using chalk on the end to mark the center of the hole on the inside of the waterfall as it comes down....the bad thing about this method is it would only mark the center, not the oval shape of the hole but I could drill that hole, put the waterfall on and then take a zip saw to cut out the inside dia. of the receiver and trim from there.

[narly1]

I use Play-doh all the time to make an imprint marks where one part contacts another.

It's one of my favourite and least expensive tricks.

The idea of using metal tubing for the slip on piece was that you could use it as a guide for the roto-zip. Just like what they do for an outlet boxes behind drywall.

[33fromSD]

I use Play-doh all the time to make an imprint marks where one part contacts another.

It's one of my favourite and least expensive tricks.

The idea of using metal tubing for the slip on piece was that you could use it as a guide for the roto-zip. Just like what they do for an outlet boxes behind drywall.


Agree on Play-doh, I use it a lot in the shop.

Also agree on the metal tubing as a guide for roto-zipping

[FF33rod]

2x4 across the back with holes at the correct spacing for the roll bar to go through it. Place rollbar through 2x4 and onto the mount (without waterfall in place). Tack 2x4 to body, remove roll bar, place waterfall, insert rollbar and you now have the ends of the rollbar to mark the outside of the waterfall....

[Dodgeman]

What is the part number for the Power Stop brake kit? I need to upgrade my 33 brakes.

Thanks,
Bob

[33fromSD]

What is the part number for the Power Stop brake kit? I need to upgrade my 33 brakes.

Thanks,
Bob

Hey Bob

I went through RockAuto their p/n is KC130126; price was $235 for everything (calipers, rotors & pads)

[33fromSD]

2x4 across the back with holes at the correct spacing for the roll bar to go through it. Place rollbar through 2x4 and onto the mount (without waterfall in place). Tack 2x4 to body, remove roll bar, place waterfall, insert rollbar and you now have the ends of the rollbar to mark the outside of the waterfall....

Nice...great suggestion

[33fromSD]

Cleaned the whole body with wax / grease remover, then smoothed out the glue lines, cut the door hinge holes out, trimmed the trunk lip per instructions, unhooked all the temporary wiring, and set the body on the chassis...all went pretty well.

It's just set on there for now, I have not fastened it down yet. but its starting to look like a car now.

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[33fromSD]

Body is mounted to the chassis now. I guess it's time to start on the doors and other panels and share in the pain I'm reading the majority of the folks are having or have had with the panels.

[peterh226]

Body is mounted to the chassis now. I guess it's time to start on the doors and other panels and share in the pain I'm reading the majority of the folks are having or have had with the panels.

It’s a challenge and part of the experience. Just don’t plan on getting anything right the first time. At least it’s easy to fill holes. And you really get to appreciate how all of the pieces fit together.

[33fromSD]

It’s a challenge and part of the experience. Just don’t plan on getting anything right the first time. At least it’s easy to fill holes. And you really get to appreciate how all of the pieces fit together.

Agree... I guess the good news is after doing several restoration of classics I've come to learn to expect the unexpected. I can't tell you how many times I've welded / cut / rewelded / recut, etc. doors, fenders, quarter panels, hoods, & trunk lids to achieve a decent fit....the biggest difference here is fiberglass which I worked on a 75 vette many moons ago so I have a "little" bit of experience but not much compared to metal.

Like you said, it's all part of the experience and I learned long ago that you need to look to the end goal verses the pain/frustration of the moment. All good. I also like a good challenge.

[narly1]

I think you need to have a strong "Life's a journey not a destination." kind of ethos to take on one of these kits.

Otherwise one can buy already built without having to put in all of the time, effort, and cost.

[33fromSD]

Doors installed, turned out great....found a bunch of issues at the start but corrected them all.

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Issues found:
1) Door template for the hinge hole is 1/4" too narrow between hinge holes which is causing the door to sit lower than the body and throws off the belt line.

2) The full length door bar that bolts to the striker is bent at a 90 degree angle yet the door edge the striker sits up against is over 90 degree, by not catching this originally I was putting undo strain on the fiberglass causing twisting.

3) The angle of the full length door bar does not match the angle of the side of the door that the striker butts up again, which prevents the other end of that bar holes from lining up with the hinge bracket holes. If you force the holes to line up you can physically see the fiberglass shell twist which I believe is causing a lot of people the dreaded twist issue.

As pictures show above, once I figured this stuff out and corrected the bracket bends and corrected the hinge holes in the door shell, everything lined up really nice. My first attempt on the drivers door before figuring this out was like everyone else...door was too low, it had a nasty twist in it, and just wouldn't line up no matter what.

From start to finish ~7 hours with both doors installed and things lining up nicely. Very pleased.

[peterh226]

WOW! Really nice job. I finally got both my doors mounted and latching OK. but they still are not as nice as yours and I put way more than 7 hours into it. Any more details on the bracket bends you adjusted appreciated. I'm working on the power windows now.

[narly1]

Too bad you didn't have a chance to take before and after (bending) pictures of the door bar.

Looking good!

[33fromSD]

Too bad you didn't have a chance to take before and after (bending) pictures of the door bar.

Looking good!

Actually did, just couldn't get them pulled / posted last night for some reason

Before:

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After:

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Holes are also a touch too small, opened those up

139269

Once mounted by the striker due to the face angle they bent by the striker being off the holes at the hinge bracket don't line up. When I forced it to line up and bolted it down I could physically see the door twist

139270

expanded the holes so I didn't need to move the bar, bolted it down, mounted the door and whamoo, everything lined up

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[narly1]

Nice photo tutorial!

This is definitely going in my back pocket for when the time comes.

[RoadRacer]

Ha, yes!! Nicely documented. I didn’t manage to get out yesterday but you’re right on all counts. The (at least gen2) ‘glass parts seem to fit great but the metalwork isn’t quite right. I see the exact same slotting and angle issues. But the shells line up perfectly - trunk too - out of the box.

I’m hoping to get back out today to follow along.

[peterh226]

Fit the steel to the door, not the door to the steel. Makes so much sense. Fun to learn all the tricks from experience.

[Dodgeman]

Can you tell me what the part number is for your upgraded Powerstop Extreme front disc brakes.

Thanks,
Bob

[FF33rod]

Congrats, good to see someone making sense of this. Gen 2 might be a bit better after all...

Steve

[RoadRacer]

1) Door template for the hinge hole is 1/4" too narrow between hinge holes which is causing the door to sit lower than the body and throws off the belt line.


btw, this one annoys me the most. you get templates with Gen2 (didnt with Gen1 instructions), but they are wrong!!!

[FF33rod]

For the life of me, I don't understand why FFR doesn't have a tech support page where they post stuff like this. Imagine the number of calls it would eliminate not to mention lessening the frustration for the builder. Of course, the ultimate (other than not making mistakes to begin with) would be for them to proactively push information out by email to builders based on serial number which of course is in a database with the revision level of the various components in their kit so they know who to contact for each issue/correction...

Steve

[33fromSD]

Can you tell me what the part number is for your upgraded Powerstop Extreme front disc brakes.

Thanks,
Bob

I went through RockAuto their p/n is KC130126; price was $235 for everything (calipers, rotors & pads)

[33fromSD]

Trunk lid installed...no huge issue there, just a lot of on and off for trimming the gaps and adjusting the hinges but I'm used to that on the other cars I work on.

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[Dodgeman]

Thanks,
Did the upgrade improveve stopping power?

Bob

[33fromSD]

Thanks,
Did the upgrade improveve stopping power?

Bob

Night & Day difference, but keep in mind, I have only tested the brakes in go-cart mode so we are not talking 60+ mph to a dead stop but I'm confident the upgraded brakes will do that because even from 30-35 mph down to a dead stop the original brakes took much longer to stop than the upgraded brakes. I'm guess once I do an official pad break-in the new brakes are going to be better yet.

[JimLev]

Are these the pads that came with your KC130126 brake kit?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6096228&jsn=__GIP__4__

[33fromSD]

Yes, the Z26 Extremes came with my kit

[e36m3]

2nding the nice Nice photo tutorial comment, thanks for sharing!

[peterh226]

Can you take a picture of the way your pivot arms are mounted on the door frame. Just curious to see how it all comes together.

[33fromSD]

Can you take a picture of the way your pivot arms are mounted on the door frame. Just curious to see how it all comes together.

Not sure if this is what you are looking for or not. Jim

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[peterh226]

That was just what I wanted to see. The angle of those arms gets them pretty close to the window when it is rolled down. Too bad the design does not have the arms more parallel to the door beam. Thanks very much.

[33fromSD]

That was just what I wanted to see. The angle of those arms gets them pretty close to the window when it is rolled down. Too bad the design does not have the arms more parallel to the door beam. Thanks very much.

In my case it's a non-concern since I went with the rag top w/ zippered side curtains so I have no windows, for most, yes, you are right they would be very close.

[33fromSD]

Exterior door handles installed and passenger door functional, still working on the driver's side.....these were kind of a PITA given I was working inside the door shell with about 3" of room and chewing my hands up with the rough fiber glass on the inner door. All good though, pleased the way they turned out.

I was in contact with David at FFR today due to the cable travel was about 1.125" too short. I included my photos I used to show him of that here too. David is sending some spacers / links (can't remember what he called them) to connect to the striker assembly which the clevis will then attach to, to give me the additional 1.125" needed but for now I made a bracket which moved the cable mount about 1.25" closer to give me the length I needed. I'll decide on which method (my bracket or David's solution) once I get the parts from FFR.

Next I'll work on the inner door handles. Those "should" be a lot easier.

Here are my measurements I was seeing....keep in mind the overall cable has 2" of travel, with the measure meets here I was figuring I needed 3.125" given how FFR brackets are set up and if I bottomed out the nut on the threaded end.

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Photos of exterior door handle set up:

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Pic of the passenger door cable set up with the bracket I made to give me the additional length needed

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[peterh226]

I found the same issue and I am also using the inside handle. I added a link between the clevis and the bearclaw. See my post at https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31910-SS383-Build-33-Hot-Rod-1134&p=438265&viewfull=1#post438265 for more details. It's about 1.25 in center to center on the holes.

[33fromSD]

I found the same issue and I am also using the inside handle. I added a link between the clevis and the bearclaw. See my post at https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?31910-SS383-Build-33-Hot-Rod-1134&p=438265&viewfull=1#post438265 for more details. It's about 1.25 in center to center on the holes.

Thanks Peter...on the inside handle, where did you mount the handle? Did you put your inside handle in the removable door panel or into the fiberglass of the door shell above the removal panel. I'm thinking about putting mine in the fiberglass.

Since I don't have to worry about windows I may install some speaker in the door somewhere too.

[33fromSD]

Interior door handles installed and functional...the cable on these fit fine with no extension required.

139486

On to the waterfall next. Also need to install the door striker brackets, but like others mine won't line up to the location on the frame, so I'll just modify them to fit, just need to look at them in a little more in detail verses my initial cursory check to see what I need to modify.

[33fromSD]

Door hinge covers and fuel tank side panels installed

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Waterfall also installed...fit really nice, I'll most likely end up putting vinyl on the water fall when it's all said and done

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Moved on to the roll bar next. found out that 1-1/4" copper tubing with a 1-1/4" coupler at the end fits in the roll bar hole perfectly. Add a 3/8" threaded rod to a 1-1/4" copper cap and soldered the whole assembly together to use it as a jig to figured out where center of each hole was.

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Once I figured out where center was for the roll bar I reinstalled the waterfall and transferred my measurements to the waterfall and drill a pilot hole for the hole saw..

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139610

continued in the next post since I used up my picture limit

[33fromSD]

Continued from above

Used my 12" drill bit one the hole saw to to the angle I'd be drilling on the waterfall, the stubby bit on the hole saw would have causes the hole saw to jump everywhere.

139611

I kept the waterfall attached to the car so I could figure out as best I could how the drill needed to sit. Turned out pretty well

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Removed the waterfall to clean up the mess behind it, pulled the seat belts forward and ran speaker wires to the back and through the doors. Installed roll bar (had to open the holes up just bit)

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Moving on to the hood, side panels and underbelly panels next.

[JimLev]

Yes, the Z26 Extremes came with my kit

I ordered these 5 days ago, got them yesterday, nice pads.
Did you buy rear pads too or just use what FF5 supplied?

Your receiver tubes for the roll bar look to be more forward that the ones in our Gen 1 chassis.

[peterh226]

Door handles look like what I ended up with. Drivers side striker bracket needed a space, passenger side for ok. The link extender helped with a little more cable length to avoid the window movement.

[33fromSD]

I ordered these 5 days ago, got them yesterday, nice pads.
Did you buy rear pads too or just use what FF5 supplied?

Your receiver tubes for the roll bar look to be more forward that the ones in our Gen 1 chassis.

I only did the front.... I'm used to drums on the back on all our classic mustangs so the 11.65" rear disc/pad combo was a huge improvement already to those.

[33fromSD]

Ugh...trimmed the hood this morning only to find this on the front edge. looks like delimitation / voids in the fiberglass. The edge appeared to be solid before I started trimming. I contacted FFR to see next steps.

The one on the corner appears to be really deep.

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[JimLev]

My roof was just as bad, I filled all the voids with short strand fiberglass.
Haven’t got to the hood yet.

[33fromSD]

My roof was just as bad, I filled all the voids with short strand fiberglass.
Haven’t got to the hood yet.

Thinking about doing the same, I'm not sure I want to wait around for a new hood. It should be in a fair low impact area.

[AJT '33]

My roof was just as bad, I filled all the voids with short strand fiberglass.
Haven’t got to the hood yet.

100% agree with this method, you can get it premixed with the fibers, use a Dremel and then clean out the gap leaving it rough so the strands and the resin can have something to bite in to. A good quality short strand fiber filler like Evercoat 632 Everglass Short Strand Fiber Reinforced Filler will work great and not crack and provide a great bond as well. Whatever you get make sure it has a little fillers as possible.

[33fromSD]

100% agree with this method, you can get it premixed with the fibers, use a Dremel and then clean out the gap leaving it rough so the strands and the resin can have something to bite in to. A good quality short strand fiber filler like Evercoat 632 Everglass Short Strand Fiber Reinforced Filler will work great and not crack and provide a great bond as well. Whatever you get make sure it has a little fillers as possible.

Just now sure how deep it goes, I can press around that area and about 2-1/2 to 3" in, I'm getting that crackle sound like the void is flexing. How much is too deep for the void to be? I suppose a guy could just grind out the whole surface down to the void and then use the short strand fiber filler to build it back up and smooth it out right?

[FF33rod]

A new hood isn't going to be much better. If it runs real deep, squirting in some panel bond and then topping off (the outer 1/4") with the filler Andreas mentions is the way I'd go.

Steve

[33fromSD]

A new hood isn't going to be much better. If it runs real deep, squirting in some panel bond and then topping off (the outer 1/4") with the filler Andreas mentions is the way I'd go.

Steve

Thanks Steve...okay, that is what I was wondering if I could do. Sounds good...Thanks guys. Jim

[narly1]

Wondering if it's possible to use some sort of vacuum bagging technique to fix a defect like that.

[Davew70]

Personally, I think the problem with your hood is a rather easy fix. It is nevertheless a fix still but an easy one in my opinion. I would not bother FFR with this issue. I’m very unimpressed with their customer service and you could easily end up with another questionable hood. Maybe even a worse one. Fixing it myself would be a lot less hassle.

I’ve worked on fiberglass cars (Corvettes) and boats (Hobie Cats) for decades and one problem owners of late 70’s and early 80’s Hobies have is delimitation. Thankfully, newer glues etc. have virtually eliminated this problem today. Hobies are constructed as a sandwich with two layers of fiberglass separated by a layer of foam. Properly bonded, it is very strong. However, the early Hobies often suffered from delimitation as they aged where the layers started separating. Hence the crackling sound. A very good fix is to inject a product between the fiberglass layers called Git-Rot. Git-Rot is designed primarily as a fix for rotting wood boats but works very well for delimitation. It is a thinned liquid epoxy with no filler that is designed to flow through out the damage area. And since it is epoxy the resulting bond is quite strong. Much stronger then your typical polyester or vinylester body fillers. Nor is it like a typical panel bond which while also usually epoxy but also has filler in it. Hobie even has an article on their website describing how to fix delimitation with Git-Rot. With a boat we usually drill some holes so the air will escape but with the hood I think orienting the hood so the delimitation faces upward would suffice and allow the Git-Rot to flow throughout the cracks. Any crackling you hear should then be gone and you should have a nice strong rigid hood again. No drilling of holes or grinding would be necessary. After that you can smooth the edges with body filler of your choice. Good luck.

HTH

[33fromSD]

Got hit with a blizzard today so I shared time between the 33, snow-blowing and running kids to work since their cars were buried.

Got the hood installed, still minor gapping to do but over all pretty good. I still need to fix the void on the edge mentioned in the posts above. Also installed the hood latch and the release in the cockpit. Not sure why FFR included a 5 foot long cable, I think I trimmed it down to 24".

Started fitting the engine side panels.

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[33fromSD]

Engine side panels installed and hood trimmed to fit the panels. Next up is the lower belly pan, then the full fenders/running boards. The side panels were a little shy on the passenger side so I'll have to do a little glass fill in...no biggie. Also need to glass in the lower edges of the hood (I screwed up on my cut).

3 months ago yesterday (9/25/2020) the kit arrived, so progress has been really good.

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[33fromSD]

Lower belly pan installed....rear section and openings for suspension lined up great. Waaaay short by the grill but I'll just add material. That is the beauty of fiberglass, pretty easy medium to work with.

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[FF33rod]

Looking great! In just 3 months, that's insanely fast!

[JimLev]

Wow, great progress. I keep putting off doing the body as much as possible.
I went into the garage today with the intention of doing some body work but ended up starting to make a sheet metal brake.

[narly1]

Very inspiring Jim. If sweat equity counts as a cost in the build process this could be the cheapest 33 going LOL.

[33fromSD]

Holes for defroster vents cut in dash & defroster vents installed (I have trim pieces on order for onto top of the dash.

Windshield also installed.....

Moving on to fenders and running boards, hope to have those installed by the end of this weekend.

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[narly1]

I think we had this discussion already but you're only going heater and defrost, right?

Are you planning on seat heaters too?

[33fromSD]

I think we had this discussion already but you're only going heater and defrost, right?

Are you planning on seat heaters too?

Correct...deforst / heater only, no AC...... I bought the Vintage Air II system from Summit Racing). Even in the 80+% humid 90+ degree days we get here in summer, the top is always down in our other two convertibles and no AC in those either....heat / humidity never really bugged me.

No heated seats either, they make me feel like I wet my pants always :o I don't even use the heated seats or heated steering wheel in our Lincoln Navigator in winter.

Jim

[narly1]

I have pretty much the same plans for my future build except for the addition of the heated seats. My boney old backside likes them LOL.

We're pretty much at the same geographic latitude albeit the great lakes moderate the temps/cause more snow for us than you.

Even so the custom car driving season is short for us too, so I get your choices.

[33fromSD]

Got most of the pieces of the full fenders / running board kit installed yesterday, finished up the rest this morning. Everything line up really well, and fenders / running boards are tight to the body panels (no gaps).

I didn't use rivnuts, I decided to use 1/4-20 Grade 8 bolts... a little more work, but I won't have to worry about them pulling out of the fiberglass later on in life.

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[33fromSD]

Next I moved onto building support brackets for the running boards. I know my wife for sure will want to step on them verses stepping over them and human nature is for people to try to step on them so I figured I'd just take away the worry and make them functional.

Bolted them to the frame using 5/16-18 grade 8 hardware and then the running boards are shimmed / bolted to the supports using 1/4-20 stainless steel hardware. The bolt are counter sunk and then I'll put a traction strip across them so you won't see them.

I'm 200 lbs and there is no sag when I step on them. I can even rock the car up and down standing on them.

Can't see them at all even looking straight on.

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[33fromSD]

A little learning for folks with Gen2 kits. Sorry if this has been pointed out already.

When I was doing the fenders / running boards this weekend I was grabbing the tops of the doors to pull myself up a lot not thinking twice about it. this morning I ran out to the 33 to check a part I had on the inside and the drivers door opened harder than normal and it shut even worse.....I thought WTH. Tried the passenger door and same thing. I had these adjusted where you barely had to push on them and they latched flawlessly. Very odd.

I started looking at it, and thought perhaps I forgot to tighten one of the bolts so the door shifted / sagged ....I checked and nope, everything was tight. Then I started looking at the long door bar and saw the slots in it where the carriage bolts sit connecting the long door bar and the hinge bracket together, and thought even though the bolts are tight are they pivoting in the slots when weight is applied....That is exactly what is happening. Figured this will really apply to the folks with power windows since it adds extra weight to the door shell so I thought I should make you guys aware of this.

While things seem tight, grab the bottom of your door by the striker latch end and lift up and then on the top of the door push down and you can physically watch the long bar teeter in the slots (moves 1/16 to 1/8" which just compounds the farther out you get). There is enough slop in the slots compared to the square on the carriage bolt where the bar can teeter no matter how tight the hardware is.

I ended up drilling 5/16" holes through the long door bar and hinge bracket, and put in two 5/16-18 3/4" grade 8 bolts in each door and it stiffened everything up and won't allow the long door bar to shift/pivot any longer. With the doors open, I can now lean on them and they no longer sag. I may also just tack weld the two parts together since I don't plan on ever taking them part again (they can stay in for painting, I'll just mask them off), but for now this fixes it too.

Just FYI

Jim

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[RoadRacer]

A little learning for folks with Gen2 kits. Sorry if this has been pointed out already.

When I was doing the fenders / running boards this weekend I was grabbing the tops of the doors to pull myself up a lot not thinking twice about it. this morning I ran out to the 33 to check a part I had on the inside and the drivers door opened harder than normal and it shut even worse.....I thought WTH. Tried the passenger door and same thing. I had these adjusted where you barely had to push on them and they latched flawlessly. Very odd.

I started looking at it, and thought perhaps I forgot to tighten one of the bolts so the door shifted / sagged ....I checked and nope, everything was tight. Then I started looking at the long door bar and saw the slots in it where the carriage bolts sit connecting the long door bar and the hinge bracket together, and thought even though the bolts are tight are they pivoting in the slots when weight is applied....That is exactly what is happening. Figured this will really apply to the folks with power windows since it adds extra weight to the door shell so I thought I should make you guys aware of this.

While things seem tight, grab the bottom of your door by the striker latch end and lift up and then on the top of the door push down and you can physically watch the long bar teeter in the slots (moves 1/16 to 1/8" which just compounds the farther out you get). There is enough slop in the slots compared to the square on the carriage bolt where the bar can teeter no matter how tight the hardware is.

I ended up drilling 5/16" holes through the long door bar and hinge bracket, and put in two 5/16-18 3/4" grade 8 bolts in each door and it stiffened everything up and won't allow the long door bar to shift/pivot any longer. With the doors open, I can now lean on them and they no longer sag. I may also just tack weld the two parts together since I don't plan on ever taking them part again (they can stay in for painting, I'll just mask them off), but for now this fixes it too.

Just FYI

Jim

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Beautiful, thanks for the reminder. I had thought about putting even very small bolts through everywhere that has slots (once everything is perfectly aligned) because after that the slots work against us!

[narly1]

Maybe cap screws instead of carriage bolts along with toothed washers at either end would fix the slippage problem.

[33fromSD]

Beautiful, thanks for the reminder. I had thought about putting even very small bolts through everywhere that has slots (once everything is perfectly aligned) because after that the slots work against us!

Agree

[33fromSD]

Maybe cap screws instead of carriage bolts along with toothed washers at either end would fix the slippage problem.


I'm not sure any hardware keeping just two bolts in that slotted area will fix the issue, it's a weak point in the design IMO, I think the best solution is adding a third (I added a 4th) bolt in that area to eliminate the slip / sag or the guaranteed fix is to weld it but then you lose any future adjustment (which I'm not sure that would matter once everything is aligned). Jim

[33fromSD]

Installed the rag top today...over all installation went pretty well. I did however discover an issue with the zippered side curtain...I got two passenger side curtains verses one passenger and one driver. Guess who I'm calling tomorrow?

Guess I'll hold off on installing the passenger side until I hear more.

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[narly1]

I'm not sure any hardware keeping just two bolts in that slotted area will fix the issue, it's a weak point in the design IMO, I think the best solution is adding a third (I added a 4th) bolt in that area to eliminate the slip / sag or the guaranteed fix is to weld it but then you lose any future adjustment (which I'm not sure that would matter once everything is aligned). Jim

Ya, you're probably right. Fix it once, fix it right, and be done with it.:)

[FF33rod]

That soft top looks great! Not sure why I didn't seriously consider it

Steve

[33fromSD]

Ya, you're probably right. Fix it once, fix it right, and be done with it.:)

Amen to that!!

[33fromSD]

That soft top looks great! Not sure why I didn't seriously consider it

Steve
Thanks Steve...yeah, the company did a heck of a job on design / fit / final look. Once the body mounts were installed everything else lines up really well. I measured the locations for the mounts about 10 times before I drilled the holes to be sure everything was right (very unusual for me...normally I measure once or twice and drill).

Even FFR coordinated with these guys because the FFR's windshield frame had holes drilled / tapped in the right location to accept Rag Tops latch hardware. Only thing I need to do is measure / drill / tap two holes on each side of the windshield frame for the snaps on the side curtains.

This top can then either be folded down, or it can be quickly removed completely and run with FFR cover on the back.

I'm pretty pleased. I love the look of the hard top, I just didn't want to deal with putting it on and taking it off all the time.

Jim

[cob427sc]

I have the soft top too. Easy to install and looks perfect. I don't have the side curtains.

[e36m3]

A little learning for folks with Gen2 kits. Sorry if this has been pointed out already.

When I was doing the fenders / running boards this weekend I was grabbing the tops of the doors to pull myself up a lot not thinking twice about it. this morning I ran out to the 33 to check a part I had on the inside and the drivers door opened harder than normal and it shut even worse.....I thought WTH. Tried the passenger door and same thing. I had these adjusted where you barely had to push on them and they latched flawlessly. Very odd.

I started looking at it, and thought perhaps I forgot to tighten one of the bolts so the door shifted / sagged ....I checked and nope, everything was tight. Then I started looking at the long door bar and saw the slots in it where the carriage bolts sit connecting the long door bar and the hinge bracket together, and thought even though the bolts are tight are they pivoting in the slots when weight is applied....That is exactly what is happening. Figured this will really apply to the folks with power windows since it adds extra weight to the door shell so I thought I should make you guys aware of this.

While things seem tight, grab the bottom of your door by the striker latch end and lift up and then on the top of the door push down and you can physically watch the long bar teeter in the slots (moves 1/16 to 1/8" which just compounds the farther out you get). There is enough slop in the slots compared to the square on the carriage bolt where the bar can teeter no matter how tight the hardware is.

I ended up drilling 5/16" holes through the long door bar and hinge bracket, and put in two 5/16-18 3/4" grade 8 bolts in each door and it stiffened everything up and won't allow the long door bar to shift/pivot any longer. With the doors open, I can now lean on them and they no longer sag. I may also just tack weld the two parts together since I don't plan on ever taking them part again (they can stay in for painting, I'll just mask them off), but for now this fixes it too.

Just FYI

Jim

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Jim,
Thanks for the heads up on this. This makes a lot of sense to me.
Andy

[33fromSD]

The top company got back to me this morning right away, they have a driver's side curtain on the way to me. Super fast response, very apologetic for the over-sight, awesome customer support. between this company for the top and FFR themselves, I have been very impressed with responsiveness and turn around time with items requiring attention. 1st class customer support!!

That is the number one question I get with people when they see my 33 and are interested in building their own..."How is FFR to deal with on issues?"...can't speak for the majority but all my issues have always been solved immediately and with immediate responses to all my occasional questions.

[33fromSD]

Busy weekend with a lot of piddly stuff done. Started with removing the rag top and packing that away until my replacement side curtain arrives.

Moved on to draining the cooling system so I could install the heater hoses for the Vintage Air heater/defrost system which led me to have to swap out the thermostat housing to a right angle version verses the 45 degree one I was running, due to needing to swing the alternator out wider in order to access the coolant passage nipple on the water pump. Do you sense things are spiraling yet?

That of course caused me to have to get a longer turn-buckle adjustor for the alternator and move it down a few holes on the water pump. All this then caused me to have to rethink / replumb the upper radiator hose which I have new parts coming this week as well as order a longer 8-rib serpentine belt due to the alternator being out farther now. Man, it just all spiraled and led to one thing after another after another. All good though.

I must admit that working on the engine without hood, side covers and full fenders installed was a much more pleasurable experience verses doing it now with all that stuff installed. The tired back didn't appreciate all the bending / stretching / leaning but it's getting there.

I still need to route the wiring to the inline heater control for the heat / defrost system in the engine bay and get a 1/2 NPT x 5/8" barbed 90 degree fitting for the intake manifold but for the most part it's plumbed.

Some folks are going to ask why I put a flush tee in-line...two reasons...
1) I like to have them installed when filling the coolant system, I leave the cap off to help the air escape and I put the cap on when I see coolant coming out slightly or coolant is up to the top of the tee.
2) BPE puts an orange dye additive in their engines when they do the run test to check for issues so my coolant after my first go-karting was bright orange, I called being a bit concerned, and they confirmed it was normal and I could leave it like it was or flush it if it bugs me.....well, it bugs me, I'm old school, antifreeze in a SBF should be green, not orange so I'll flush the block once I get it running again.

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Up next (this upcoming weekend) I'm going to finish up in the engine bay (install the parts coming this week), then replumb the lowered radiator hose (the belly panel was hitting the hose so I need to reroute it), then install my wire conduit in the doors for the speaker wire, then fit the dash panel and start installing the gauge cluster, stereo, ignition & other switches / heater controls. Finally get the tranny tunnel installed...still haven't decided if I'm going to stick with the one that came with the kit or design my own.

Then it's time for final body prep (oh yeah, still need to install tail lights & headlights but no biggie).

[narly1]

I've already picked up one of these with the intention of routing the upper rad hose up and out of the way:

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I might also do away with the rad cap/filler neck piece that goes up by the rad in favour of something like this:

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[33fromSD]

Besides media blasting my 55 F100 Cab yesterday, I spent the rest of yesterday and this morning (need to watch my Packers this afternoon) working on braces for the engine side panels. Even without the full front fenders, I was a little concerned how much in and out movement was on the side covers, and then when I added the full front fenders, the area of the side covers around the suspension had a good 1/2" to 3/4" deflection if you wiggled the front fenders.

I started out by riveting a 3' section of 3/4" x 1/8" aluminum angle to the underside of the engine covers on the top and riveted them every 6"

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Just these two alone took care of the majority of the in and out movement on the upper part of the side panel.

Speedway motors has these awesome aluminum clamps to fit tubing so I bought four 1-1/2" clamps....figured rather than drilling into the frame, why not just put clamps. the other nice thing about these clamps is they are pre-tapped with two 10-32 holes as well as a 3/8" hole

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Next I made a 1" x 1/8" steel bracket to go the the top of the aluminum I installed and bolted it down to one of these aluminum clamps in the center of the top of the engine side panel. Bolted those in and I can now push and pull on the top of the side covers and the whole car rocks with is awesome.

Moved on to the fenders next, I took some 3" x 3/16" steel plate and used three of the bolts I drilled for the fenders on the highest part of the curve on the fender at the point I was seeing the most deflection. The I made a 1" x 1/8" steel bracket and welded that to the plate I made and bolted it the frame bar using one of the aluminum clamps. Not more deflection, the fender in the front and the top is now solid.

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For stiffening up the rear of the front fender I made a support bracket out of 3/4" aluminum angle and a repro 1932 fender bracket I ordered and installed also installed 2" sections of 3" x 3/6 steel plate behind the engine covers to give the fiberglass some support. This greatly improved that deflection point as well. You'll see them if you look in through the tire but you won't see them from the side.

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Now I am no longer concerned with these fenders shaking on idle or someone coming up and putting some weight on them, they aren't going anywhere now. Jim

[FF33rod]

Looks excellent, good work. I was thinking of something similar (aluminum angle) for the top of the side covers to keep the right shape relative to the hood. At the moment the middle sticks too far out.

Steve