Jim's Build Thread

[e36m3]

Well thought out approach, nice.

[Shades]

Jim, I think you have the fastest build I've seen!
Going all the way back to post 99, rear suspension: I don't think it matters which way to install the lower controls arms; with the FFR towards the front or rear, but I did notice that you split the difference and did one each way. :p

I just installed mine yesterday, and I thought that part might be more visible towards the front (and I'd like to be able to see it at least partially), though probably only for those really crouching down to look. Do you have a preference based on how it's coming together with tires and body, given that you have both options in real life? It looks like you might be able to see some of it between the tire and body at the front.

Also I noticed you went with the lower holes for both upper and lower arms. What went into that decision? -not questioning it at all, just curious as it might influence mine. My differential is pointing down more than I'd expect and I wonder of that might change the angle.

[33fromSD]

Jim, I think you have the fastest build I've seen!
Going all the way back to post 99, rear suspension: I don't think it matters which way to install the lower controls arms; with the FFR towards the front or rear, but I did notice that you split the difference and did one each way. :p

I just installed mine yesterday, and I thought that part might be more visible towards the front (and I'd like to be able to see it at least partially), though probably only for those really crouching down to look. Do you have a preference based on how it's coming together with tires and body, given that you have both options in real life? It looks like you might be able to see some of it between the tire and body at the front.

Also I noticed you went with the lower holes for both upper and lower arms. What went into that decision? -not questioning it at all, just curious as it might influence mine. My differential is pointing down more than I'd expect and I wonder of that might change the angle.

Thanks Shades

In order of your questions / comments

On the lower control arms, My thinking was the only place you're really going to get a look at the LAs is when you're under the vehicle, so no matter if a person looks at the right side or left side I set up the "FFR" so you're reading it left to right as if you're reading from a page. Like you note, there really is not a right or wrong way but that was my thinking.

With the full fenders and running boards on you really need to crouch down from the outside to see them so I was focusing on being under the car like at a car show or it's on a lift, etc. Just me, just my opinion.

On your last point, if you're running the full fenders / running boards the manual instructs using the lower holes so you have the correct clearance between the tire and fender when the ride height is properly set.

The differential will come up quite a bit once the car is on it's wheels.

Good luck on your build.

Jim

[Shades]

Thanks for the quick reply. I forgot that the full fenders ride higher. I will have bike fenders, which I believe are the same in the back, so I'll have to see. I can always change holes when I see what it looks like on the ground with tires.

[33fromSD]

Busy day today......

Ran my conduit / speaker wire to the doors for the speakers in the doors (forgot to snap a pic of that) and fitted the rear speakers in the waterfall and reinstalled the waterfall

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Next, I fitted the wiper motor and installed the wiper blade. Since I have a rag top I did not want the motor on top of the windshield, nor drilled through the windshield glass like it's designed to be so I needed a plan-B. In fact, I didn't even want to see the motor so I spent about an hour looking at various locations. I found a spot on the bottom of the windshield frame I could drill through and mount the motor from the inside of the cowl through the windshield frame.

Once the hole was drilled, I made a couple aluminum spacers with the correct angle to sit against the windshield frame and the cowl on the inside for the motor shaft.

A little nerve wracking drilling into the frame not quite knowing where the glass ends but it all worked out. Works awesome and the wiper blades sits nice and tight against the frame in the resting position. just need to find a cap to cover the nut on the outside. Should be able to find something from some classic car.

Windshield Wiper motor kit ordered from Speedway Motors = https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Stainless-12-Volt-Electric-Windshield-Wiper-Motor-Kit,38962.html

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Next I fitted the dash panel and got that mounted so I could figure out where to put the gauge cluster and stereo so I can figure out where the rest of the knobs and switches will go. I wanted the gauge cluster in the spot behind the wheel but I was 1/4" too shy of space so I put it in the middle. Tomorrow I'll place the remaining switches and knobs and then start cleaning up the wiring.

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Last thing I did today before calling it quits was to do a rough mark up of where I'm going to put my vent holes on the engine side panels. I found some really nice 2" round 49 Buick ventiports that should be arrive early next week which will work great for this.

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Jim

[narly1]

Busy day today...... just need to find a cap to cover the nut on the outside. Should be able to find something from some classic car.

Nice job on the wiper motor install. Any chance that you could take some measurements or make a template for the windshield frame hole location?

Also the cap you are looking for is called a "wiper shaft bezel" lots of different ones out there on Google.

Earl

[33fromSD]

Nice job on the wiper motor install. Any chance that you could take some measurements or make a template for the windshield frame hole location?

Also the cap you are looking for is called a "wiper shaft bezel" lots of different ones out there on Google.

Earl


Hey Earl...yeah, I'll take some measurements of the hole location tomorrow and post them. Jim

[Shades]

If you could, would love to see what the wiper motor looks like inside the dash, and is it mounted to anything other than just through the fiberglass. I'm surprised there's room in there. Would need to plan when mounting all the other things that go in there. And seems like it's close to the master cylinders.

[33fromSD]

Hey Shades

Where I have it on the side is plenty room, it's actually pretty far from the MC & Clutch MC. At least 2 inches away from anything (brake lines, MC, etc.)

Also, it's mounted through the aluminum cast windshield frame (probably going through ~1/2 - 3/4" of aluminum) as well the fiberglass body so it's not going anywhere. The pic below is the best shot I have of it for now since the dash is now buttoned up. I'll try to remember to take more pics once I disassemble everything for final body work. Jim

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[33fromSD]

Hey Earl...yeah, I'll take some measurements of the hole location tomorrow and post them. Jim

Hi Earl

See pics for measurements of the windshield wiper motor shaft hole in the windshield frame. If they are not clear let me know. By the way, the angle is tough to measure but if I'd have to guess I was at about 45 degrees to the body and 90 degree to the windshield.

Also as a disclaimer, this is for the roadster (convertible) windshield only, I don't have a hard top so I don't know if the same measurements would apply or not.

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[Shades]

Thanks, that pic helps. I'll have the hardtop so softer than aluminum, as well as AC in there. I've got plenty of time but will need wipers (or at least one, not sure if I need two).

[33fromSD]

Not pics today. I just spent the whole day routing wires, shortening / lengthening wires, and general wire harness clean up. Amazing how many wires can be removed from the harness after all is said and done.

I just have the heater / defroster left on the inside, the gauge cluster, headlight switch, ignition switch, dimmer switch, wiper switch and radio are all wired to final length. On the outside I have the headlights, tail lights an backup lights to do final length / routing on, then I'll do a systems check. All should work fine since I labeled everything before I removed components after go-karting but you just never know.

I actually thought it was going to be a royal PITA with the day spent laying under the dash in cramped quarters but the access holes in the cowls worked out great, I could get everything from those two holes and for future repair / maintenance, all the connectors, cable ties and clamps are accessible through the cowl access holes now.

[narly1]

Thanks a million for the wiper hole location details.

I am putting that info into my back pocket for when my time comes.

[e36m3]

Thanks for the wiper info, very nicely done!

[Dduty]

Not pics today. I just spent the whole day routing wires, shortening / lengthening wires, and general wire harness clean up. Amazing how many wires can be removed from the harness after all is said and done.

I just have the heater / defroster left on the inside, the gauge cluster, headlight switch, ignition switch, dimmer switch, wiper switch and radio are all wired to final length. On the outside I have the headlights, tail lights an backup lights to do final length / routing on, then I'll do a systems check. All should work fine since I labeled everything before I removed componentsi after go-karting but you just never know.

I actually thought it was going to be a royal PITA with the day spent laying under the dash in cramped quarters but the access holes in the cowls worked out great, I could get everything from those two holes and for future repair / maintenance, all the connectors, cable ties and clamps are accessible through the cowl access holes now.

I’m just starting to sort out the wiring. I have body work and paint done and trying to do everything I can before remounting the body.
I need the measurement from the floor to the underside of the dash near the steering column. Thanks in advance.

[j33ptj]

Hi Earl

See pics for measurements of the windshield wiper motor shaft hole in the windshield frame. If they are not clear let me know. By the way, the angle is tough to measure but if I'd have to guess I was at about 45 degrees to the body and 90 degree to the windshield.

Also as a disclaimer, this is for the roadster (convertible) windshield only, I don't have a hard top so I don't know if the same measurements would apply or not.

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Did you make any wiper profile on the windshield to see how it clears it? the swept area?

RJ

[33fromSD]

Did you make any wiper profile on the windshield to see how it clears it? the swept area?

RJ

Yes, I ran the wiper to verify the sweep area. It's basically in line with right side of the steering wheel (sitting in the car) and sweeps all the way to the windshield frame on the left (sitting in the car). While not ideal for a daily driver, especially only being one wiper, it will suffice for a rare off-chance I get caught in the rain. It provides the vision the driver needs.

[33fromSD]

Ventiports arrived yesterday and I got them installed in the side covers last night....just the look I was going for

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[e36m3]

Hi Jim,

Where did you buy your battery tray from?

[33fromSD]

Hi Jim,

Where did you buy your battery tray from?

Edge Auto Sports

https://edgeautosport.com/shop?search_query=MS6-BTRY-Box

[e36m3]

Edge Auto Sports

https://edgeautosport.com/shop?search_query=MS6-BTRY-Box

Thanks!

Andy

[33fromSD]

Interior all wired, all tested good. For whatever the reason, I could not stand having a blank panel behind the steering wheel so I added an electric clock which matches pretty close to the FFR gauge cluster

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Moved to the wiring in the trunk next....mounted the tail lights and installed the backup lights I found.

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Still need to route all the wires and hook them up, done for today though, as I need to pick up my daughter from the ski hill.

Jim

[JimLev]

I added the same Autometer clock and a engine oil temp gauge.

[33fromSD]

I added the same Autometer clock and a engine oil temp gauge.

That's too funny....I was thinking really hard about the oil temp gauge as well but then figured it's just a base 302 so no real need.....

Clock has been running now for 4 hours and the time is dead on...so far I'm pretty impressed.

Jim

[JimLev]

Mine has been running for 6+ months, dead on too.
I got the oil temp gauge (red needle) from FFR years ago when I lived in MA.
They have a yearly open house and cookout (just not last year) with lots of part for sale cheap.
I got the gauge, sender, and fittings for $5. At the time I didn't have a hotrod but it was too good a deal to pass up.

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[33fromSD]

Mine has been running for 6+ months, dead on too.
I got the oil temp gauge (red needle) from FFR years ago when I lived in MA.
They have a yearly open house and cookout (just not last year) with lots of part for sale cheap.
I got the gauge, sender, and fittings for $5. At the time I didn't have a hotrod but it was too good a deal to pass up.

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Nice set up...love it. Jim

[33fromSD]

Trunk wiring done, all lights (brake lights, hazards, turn signals & reverse lights) work.

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Prewired a 3rd brake light wire if I can find a style I like

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Also riveted in the upper trunk access panels

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Screwed in the cowl access panels

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Just need to install the lower truck access panel and mount the new 32-34 Trunk Handle / Latch and the rear of the car mechanical / electrical will be done.

[33fromSD]

Since we have Monday off for President's Day at work I decided to take a 5 day weekend to get some stuff done on the 33 HR but also my 55 F100. Spent part of the day on the 33 today.

Installed the lower trunk access panel, and then routed my battery tender cable out the side of the trunk on the driver's side.

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Like JimLev, I ditched my cable latch since I just could get it to latch how I wanted and went with a trunk handle. Worked out really well, I modified the existing bracket (still need to clean that up some) but there is no up or down play in the lid when latched. How I have it set up, it's tight to the seal. For the latch I decided to use self tapping screws into the aluminum on the lid verses riv-nuts, just not a fan of them.

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Earlier this week, I ordered a 3rd brake light and suicide door safety pin latches from Watson Streetworks. The suicide door safety latches arrived today so I also got them installed. I did not wire them yet, nor do I think I will, I shouldn't need a light in the dash or buzzer to remind me to latch them.

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3rd brake light is supposed to be here tomorrow or Saturday, so I'll install that then.

Jim

[33fromSD]

Headlights mounted.... turned out good. All functional too which completes all my final routing / wring (except for the 3rd brake light, still waiting on that to arrive)....just a couple odds and ends left (striker plates and reinstalling the lower radiator hose / filling coolant system), then on to final body work. I am completely out of parts from the delivered kit after I install the striker plates.

Big Milestone ..... From bare frame and 32 boxes of parts to car fully assembled / go-Karted / body panels installed / final wiring in 4 months, 18 days from receiving Kit (delivered on 9/25)

Mounting the Headlights / routed wiring
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Daytime Running lights:
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Low Beams / High Beams:
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Signal Lights:
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Jim

[33fromSD]

Lucy...we gots a problem here....Apparently I'm not installing the striker plates today :rolleyes: :rolleyes: ...... As many of you have had an issue too, they are the wrongs ones or made wrong for the new Gen2 kit ....I sent David at FFR an email with all the pics, I'll wait to hear from him...no biggie, this doesn't stop me from doing other things (finishing up coolant system).

By the way, the photos on the inside of the car are "mirror images" in case you're looking at them and thinking these look odd, I needed to use the selfie mode on my camera because it was such a weird angle I couldn't hold the bracket and take the the pic in the normal camera mode.

You can see the doors align really nice so it's not the doors or striker positioning.

Driver's side (**Reminder** inside pics are mirror images)
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Passenger side (**Reminder** inside pics are mirror images)
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Jim

[33fromSD]

I had the striker bracket on the wrong side of the frame, but even still, it's off...here is a pic of the passenger side (again, mirror image).

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[33fromSD]

Fed-Ex showed up this morning on a nice -19F (air temp) day to deliver the 3rd brake light I ordered from Watson Streetworks.

Nice little unit, "supposed" to be super bright, I guess I'll find out once I wire it up. I'll send pics when I do.

As far as size and discreteness, I think this is going to work out great. Here are a couple pic of where I plan to mount it. It's paintable so if it's as bright as they advertise it is, it should blend into the body nicely and look like it was meant to be there verses looking like a bulky looking blob I added as an afterthought.

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Jim

[33fromSD]

3rd brake light wired up...should work out fine. Discrete, yet viewable.

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[Tampa33Build]

Is that the "Micro Billet Third Brake Light (EL-MB)"?
I ordered the "Retro Round Micro 3rd Brake Light (EL-MBRX)" this weekend. Was originally going to have a third brake light molded into the top and sealed with the clearcoat. The rodshop owner talked me out of it, said he cannot guarantee it would not leak and onec done there would be no way to access it. He suggested one that bolted in the rear window. Spent many hours looking at different ones and it was a toss up between Watson's "Small Billet Third brake light" and the "Retro Round Micro 3rd Brake Light (EL-MBRX)". Price of the billet version seamed excessive. After seeing your post I think it was the right solution.
If you have the EL-MB version, please provide the actual dimensions, they gave the dimensions of the EL-MBRX version but only showed the EL-MB beside a quarter.

Neil

[33fromSD]

Is that the "Micro Billet Third Brake Light (EL-MB)"?
I ordered the "Retro Round Micro 3rd Brake Light (EL-MBRX)" this weekend. Was originally going to have a third brake light molded into the top and sealed with the clearcoat. The rodshop owner talked me out of it, said he cannot guarantee it would not leak and onec done there would be no way to access it. He suggested one that bolted in the rear window. Spent many hours looking at different ones and it was a toss up between Watson's "Small Billet Third brake light" and the "Retro Round Micro 3rd Brake Light (EL-MBRX)". Price of the billet version seamed excessive. After seeing your post I think it was the right solution.
If you have the EL-MB version, please provide the actual dimensions, they gave the dimensions of the EL-MBRX version but only showed the EL-MB beside a quarter.

Neil

Yes Neil, I went with the Micro Billet (EL-MB).

Dimensions are .5" H x 2.5" L x 1.75" D

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Jim

[Tampa33Build]

Jim,

Thank you,

Neil

[33fromSD]

I didn't think paint color would be that hard to figure out but after a lot of back and forth with friends and family I am 99% sure I settled on 1968 Ford Lime Gold; paint code I. I may paint the belt line a different color as well, still deciding (if I do, maybe white, silver, gray or black).

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Interior will be black to match the rag top

[JimLev]

Same problem here, what color to pick. Seems every few months I change my mind, black, blue, silver, oxford green, and now either 2019 or 2020 Corvette yellow.

[RoadRacer]

I didn't think paint color would be that hard to figure out but after a lot of back and forth with friends and family I am 99% sure I settled on 1968 Ford Lime Gold; paint code I. I may paint the belt line a different color as well, still deciding (if I do, maybe white, silver, gray or black).

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Interior will be black to match the rag top

That's a beautiful color.

[33fromSD]

That's a beautiful color.

Thanks James....Yeah, I think it will really pop on the 33.

Jim

[33fromSD]

Tear down started for final body prep .....I guess sometimes we need to go backwards in order to go forwards. :confused:

Jim


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[33fromSD]

Tonight I worked on the engine side covers by adding material to the edge by the grill to match the curve of the grill. Also found a hairline crack in the passenger engine side panel so I drilled a hole at the end of the crack (approached it like as if I were doing metal work) and then added two layers of glass over the crack.

On the outside I'll just vee the areas and use filler with short strand fiber glass reenforcement in it. So far so good, I guess we'll see when it's cured.

Jim

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[33fromSD]

Well that worked out pretty well. After I got done laying the glass, I remembered that I forgot to put release agent on the aluminum backing I used form the curve I needed on the panel to match the grill. The aluminum also helped line up the fiber glass sections I was adding so both face surfaces (the panel & patch) were even. Without release agent I was thinking I was going to have fight it to pry off the aluminum.

Came out to the garage this morning expecting a fight to get the aluminum off but figured I'd do a quick look to see what I was in for, so I removed the rivets I used to attach the aluminum to the panel as well as the duct tape I used to seal the edges of the aluminum so resin didn't run everywhere, then took a thin tipped screw driver under the aluminum and it nicely popped off the panel leaving a nice clean, smooth surface. I just need to cleanup the edges and sand down the seam edge a bit.

I didn't do any grinding on the aluminum prior to installing on the panels so my best guess is due to the smooth surface of the aluminum there was no texture for the resin to grab on to.

I included a pic of the belly pan with just the aluminum attached so you can kind of see how I did the engine side panels. To get the right shape, I fitted / riveted / taped the aluminum to the engine side covers and belly panel prior to removing them off the car. After removed, on the side panels I sanded the surface that I was going to add the glass layers, blew off the area with an air hose and finally took wax / grease remover to clean up the area

This method seems to work pretty well for me, may be an easy option for others who will need to patch panels. The Belly panel will be a little more work since I do not have fiberglass scraps to use to extend the panel, I will just add multiple layers of glass on the aluminum to get my thickness needed but same concept.

Jim

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[progmgr1]

Seat heaters are easy to install and relatively inexpensive. The ones I bought last year don't appear to be available now, but there are many options available from all the usual sources. If you are going without a top you might consider spending a few more bucks and getting the waterproof ones. Also look at what kind of controls you want - on/off or multi-level power.
Keith HR #894

[33fromSD]

Seat heaters are easy to install and relatively inexpensive. The ones I bought last year don't appear to be available now, but there are many options available from all the usual sources. If you are going without a top you might consider spending a few more bucks and getting the waterproof ones. Also look at what kind of controls you want - on/off or multi-level power.
Keith HR #894

Thanks Keith...no plans for seat heaters on mine ....when this thing gets cold enough where I would even think about seat heaters it will be parked for the winter. Our Spring, Summer and Fall are fairly nice around here.

Jim

[progmgr1]

Not only are seat heaters nice to have for those early morning coffee runs, but they really help my wonky back relax. I've been known to fire them up in the summer while I've got the A/C blasting cold air in my face...:rolleyes:
Keith HR #894

[33fromSD]

Not only are seat heaters nice to have for those early morning coffee runs, but they really help my wonky back relax. I've been known to fire them up in the summer while I've got the A/C blasting cold air in my face...:rolleyes:
Keith HR #894

I hear you Keith but personally I am not a fan of heated steering wheels or seats. My wife has a heated steering wheel in her Lincoln Nautilis and I turn it off everytime I jump in her vehicle to drive, I hate the feeling of a warm squishy steering wheel. On our Lincoln Navigator, I rarely use the heated seats, just not a huge fan. Put it this way, we did a stay-cation at a local hotel for valentines days this year and it was -26F (air temp) overnight, and the next morning when I went out to start the truck, I never put on the heated seats on my side....turned it on on my wife's side but not mine. Heated seats and especially cooled seats make me feel like I wet my pants. :o

I did use the heated seats last fall when we drove 11 hours to take our son back to Ft. Collins for college but that was because I pulled something in my back a few days prior to leaving and had a sore back. For that purpose I agree the heated seats were nice. To each their own I guess

Jim

[33fromSD]

Belly pan glassed earlier this morning. It set up nicely already. I'll remove the aluminum backing tomorrow morning (hopefully it pops off as easy as the side covers did).

Once it's cured, I will probably add a couple more layers on the inside for a little extra strength but overall it seems to be working out.

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[33fromSD]

Removed the duct tape and then the aluminum backer this morning from the belly pan. Building up / extending the fiberglass on the belly pan turned out even better than I expected.

I'll definitely be using the aluminum sheeting as a backer for any other future fiberglass work....the aluminum was definitely stuck to the fiberglass once cured but once you get under it with a thin screw driver it pops right off.

Now I'll get it cleaned up (smooth the edges, remove the rivet knubs, etc.) and reinstalled on the car for final fitment / trimming before removing once more for final prep for paint.

Jim

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[narly1]

Hey Jim, what's the deal with the two aluminum flanges on the center seam that you have bolted together? As the belly pan comes stock from FFR they aren't there , right? What do they do?

[33fromSD]

Hey Jim, what's the deal with the two aluminum flanges on the center seam that you have bolted together? As the belly pan comes stock from FFR they aren't there , right? What do they do?

Those are actually fiberglass from FFR, not aluminum.....My belly pan came in two pieces from FFR with those flanges molded in the entire length from the nose to the back. Originally I had the entire section bolted together but after I tried installing it on the car I had to remove the back portion of the flang cause it was hitting the lower radiator hose where it comes out of the radiator so I trimmed them off.

When I lengthened the belly pan the other day I also added a couple layers of glass for extra strength where I removed that flang. Just kept the front like it is now for a little extra support but on the outside I just literally got done putting 2 layers of glass over that whole seam to basically turn the belly pan into a single unit. I'll post pic later today / tomorrow after it's set.

Jim

[33fromSD]

You can kind of see the flang in this pic...This is the day the kit was delivered.

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[Lickity-Split]

....the aluminum was definitely stuck to the fiberglass once cured but once you get under it with a thin screw driver it pops right off.


in the past, I've used wax paper between epoxy/fiberglass and what ever I didn't want that to stick t since basically nothing sticks to wax paper.

The aluminum idea sounds good. It might be interesting to see if the aluminum would release even easier if we rubbed a bit of carnuba wax on it beforehand?

[33fromSD]

in the past, I've used wax paper between epoxy/fiberglass and what ever I didn't want that to stick t since basically nothing sticks to wax paper.

The aluminum idea sounds good. It might be interesting to see if the aluminum would release even easier if we rubbed a bit of carnuba wax on it beforehand?

I've used wax paper as well on straight pieces (works great) but with the engine side covers and the belly pan I needed to get the shape right, so the aluminum allowed me the ability to size it and shape it all at the same time and then I didn't lose the shape once I removed those pieces from the car to lay the glass. Jim

[narly1]

Those are actually fiberglass from FFR, not aluminum.....

OK, that make sense. I was under the impression that the pan came as a single piece.

And on the outside, a question: By two layers of glass, did you mean just resin to fill the joint crack or did you use cloth there as well?

[33fromSD]

OK, that make sense. I was under the impression that the pan came as a single piece.

And on the outside, a question: By two layers of glass, did you mean just resin to fill the joint crack or did you use cloth there as well?

First Resin on the existing fiberglass from FFR (sanded gel coat first), then cloth, then resin, then cloth, then resin.

It's set up already, here is a pic of what I mean...I'll use filler over it to smooth everything out.

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[JOP33]

With regards to the Chin or Belly pieces, a significant portion of the inside or top of these are visible between the radiator and the grill from the front of the car. You may want to thank about prepping the inside as well or at least spraying a Rock Guard or something inside.

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[33fromSD]

With regards to the Chin or Belly pieces, a significant portion of the inside or top of these are visible between the radiator and the grill from the front of the car. You may want to thank about prepping the inside as well or at least spraying a Rock Guard or something inside.

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Thanks... Yes, I am planning on prepping and spraying the inside of the engine side covers and belly pan chassis black

Jim

[1932]

How do people wash the bugs from the radiator bottom tank?

[33fromSD]

Cleaned up and test fit the engine side covers and belly pan last night...over all adding fiberglass material worked out pretty well, a little fitting / sanding to do but not too much.

Engine side cover fit:
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Belly Pan fit (without screws):
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Belly Pan fit (w/ some screws, still need to grind a little on the chin to be able to add the rest of the screws and pull it in a bit)
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Jim

[FF33rod]

Looks great, good job. Surprisingly easy really and you can always grind it back and start over if it doesn't work out.

[33fromSD]

Looks great, good job. Surprisingly easy really and you can always grind it back and start over if it doesn't work out.

exactly..... Much easier than metal work....of course with metal work you're not waiting on curing time so I guess they both have their pros and cons. :)

Jim

[33fromSD]

Belly pan prepped and ready for sealer.

I was probably waaaay too picky on it considering you're only going to see about 20% of it with the full fenders installed (unless your underneath the car), but I used it as practice / understanding for the rest of the body & panels that will be seen.

Jim

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[33fromSD]

Engine Side covers prepped and ready for primer.

Kind of glad I'm done with the prep around all the suspension openings in the side covers and belly pan, kind of PITA.

Front fenders next.

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Jim

[33fromSD]

Front fender prepped....boy, these things are bigger / bulkier to prep then they first seemed...lots of sanding, lots of curves. The driver's side front fender mold must be getting pretty beat up, there was a lot more areas needing minor filler on the driver's fender compared to the passenger.

I "think" I now have the toughest panels done. These panels I just completed had a lot of areas requiring hand sanding verses block sanding.

Comparing Passenger (done) side to Driver's side (not done)
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Both Fenders done / ready for primer
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Jim

[33fromSD]

Picked up the primer and paint this morning.

Here is a brushed on color sample of the lime gold in the sun...kind of a bad sample since it's small (size of a quarter) and blotchy due the brush strokes (they mixed me a 2 oz bottle of touch up paint too so I used that).

You get the idea at least.

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Jim

[FF33rod]

Cool, quite unique. Looking forward to seeing it done! good luck

[33fromSD]

Priming day for the belly pan, engine side covers and front fenders. Didn't turn out too bad, my cheap turbine HVLP system I've had for several years I use only for epoxy & primer took a dump about 3/4 of the way through so I limped it along spraying a little thicker / chunkier than I like, but I figured since everything needed to be finish sanded any way I'd just finish up spraying today and spend a little extra time finish sanding.

I ordered a new Q4 Fuji Spray HVLP system with 2 guns (one for epoxy / primer & the other for paint / clear)..... a buddy of mine had an Apollo system (very similar) which he let me spray a fender last summer and it was amazing. He's a body shop guy by trade though, so tons of experience but he shot primer / base / clear with this system on a 69 camaro and it was like glass...one of the smoothest (without cutting / buffing) finishes I've ever seen. These turbine systems are nice cause there is no worrying about air compressor or proper psi, they consume less paint since the atomize the spray more efficiently, and over spray is at a minimum.

Need to get these panels finish sanded tomorrow. next I move on to prepping the hood & cowl area and get those primed whenever my new HVLP system shows up. If it takes too long I'll borrow my buddy's system if he's not using it.

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[JimLev]

Looks good Jim. I spy 5 snow shovels, wow. Guess you must get a lot of snow!

[HVACMAN]

Which Fuji Q4 did you wind up purchasing, if you don't mind me asking?

[33fromSD]

Looks good Jim. I spy 5 snow shovels, wow. Guess you must get a lot of snow!

LOL...yeah...we do usually (this year has been fairly mild, not complaining), but those are just the ones we have if we get a big storm and everyone (wife & kids) needs to shovel...the ones I primarily use (scrapers & snow blower) are on the other end of the garage in front of the 33.

Jim

[33fromSD]

Which Fuji Q4 did you wind up purchasing, if you don't mind me asking?


Hey HVACMAN

This is the one I bought (Fuji Spray Q4 Platinum - T75G) as well as I bought an additional T75G gun

https://www.amazon.com/Fuji-2894-T75G-Q4-PLATINUM-System/dp/B00D4NPPMI/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Fuji+2894-T75G+Q4+PLATINUM+-+T75G+Quiet+HVLP+Spray+System&qid=1615026942&sr=8-2

Jim

[33fromSD]

Took my 55 F100 off the rotisserie this morning so I can start stripping it and prepping for primer. The Chassis with new box is up on the lift behind it.

Jim

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[33fromSD]

Belly pan and both fenders finish sanded....too much sanding this week with all the panel prep I did and then adding finish sanding of the primer on top of that, my hands started cramping up so I didn't have enough in me to start on the engine side covers today. I'll tackle those tomorrow and then move on to the hood.

Jim

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[33fromSD]

Engine Side covers finish sanding is now done as well. Also prepped the outside of the hood, removed the hood and went to start on prepping the inside of the hood and my hands started cramping up again so I'm quitting for the day.

Jim

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[33fromSD]

Hood and cowl now prepped for primer as well....inside of the hood was a PITA to prep...

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Jim

[33fromSD]

Hey HVACMAN

This is the one I bought (Fuji Spray Q4 Platinum - T75G) as well as I bought an additional T75G gun

https://www.amazon.com/Fuji-2894-T75G-Q4-PLATINUM-System/dp/B00D4NPPMI/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Fuji+2894-T75G+Q4+PLATINUM+-+T75G+Quiet+HVLP+Spray+System&qid=1615026942&sr=8-2

Jim

Q4 Platinum Fuji Spray system arrived this morning (sorry about the mess around it). Hoping to try it out this weekend when I prime the hood & cowl....a lot depends upon the weather though. Jim

144133

[33fromSD]

Tear down continues for more body prep this weekend. Removed the dash components, wiper, and windshield as well as the tail lights / backup lights.

Unfortunately I may not primer the hood / cowl this weekend due to a huge weather system coming in targeting us with over an inch of rain to start out and then transitioning to 3-6" of snow(maybe more). It may be way too damp to prime.

No worries, plenty of body prep to keep me busy.

Jim

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[Michael101]

Q4 Platinum Fuji Spray system arrived this morning (sorry about the mess around it). Hoping to try it out this weekend when I prime the hood & cowl....a lot depends upon the weather though. Jim

144133

That's the same system that I have. It took me a while to figure out that conventional nozzle sizing doesn't really translate to this low pressure system so don't hesitate to experiment with that. I find myself using a smaller nozzle size than what I'd expected.

[Michael101]

Thanks James....Yeah, I think it will really pop on the 33.

Jim

I agree, and it's different that what we normally see on the HR's

[33fromSD]

Started out this weekend masking off the dash area, under the dash, the trans tunnel area and the floor since there is going to be a ton of dust going on now that I've started on the main body.

One advantage of doing thing myself verses having body shop do it is I can be a little more picky about keeping the dust down in certain areas. When I get to spraying, I'm going to mask off the bottom of the 33 too to avoid excessive overspray on the various components.

Once that was done I sanded / prepped the dash area for primer

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Next, I moved on to door gapping, sanding and prep for primer. Driver's door is completely done on the outside, I'll do the inside and top of the doors when I remove them to do the jams. Still working on the passenger door, I had some deep scratches on the passenger door that were there when it was delivered that needed to be dealt with. Almost like it was not tied down completely during transport and was rubbing on another kit next to it.

Both doors ended up lining up really nice with all the body lines and between panels. I found that from the edge of the doors inwards about 1-2", they both had some funky waviness and sunken spots in the gel goat that had to be filled in, but no biggie, just a little more effort.


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[FF33rod]

Wow that is amazing alignment on the doors. Having the top of the doors even close to the rest of the body when the outside belt line is aligned is a miracle, at least for gen 1 guys.
Congrats, looking great!

Steve

[33fromSD]

Thanks Steve

[33fromSD]

Has any drilled weep holes in the bottom of their doors for water escape?

Thinking about it this morning, I don't recall seeing any (I'll find out for sure this weekend when I remove the doors) so figured I'd ask the group.

Jim

[FF33rod]

There is no flat bottom on the door, it's a wedge. I'm going to drill one or two holes at the bottom of the wedge (right where it starts to angle up on the inside) but they will be sealed by the weatherstripping on the body when the door is closed. I'm not going to park the car outside in the rain for days so figure it will be okay. Just need to open the door after washing, etc....

Steve

[33fromSD]

There is no flat bottom on the door, it's a wedge. I'm going to drill one or two holes at the bottom of the wedge (right where it starts to angle up on the inside) but they will be sealed by the weatherstripping on the body when the door is closed. I'm not going to park the car outside in the rain for days so figure it will be okay. Just need to open the door after washing, etc....

Steve

Thanks Steve... yeah mine will be garaged most of the time too (except when driving) and I don't have windows holes cut in the top of my door which provides more coverage from water but to be safe I'm going to do the same and drill some holed in the door to allow any water that may get into the door escape.

Jim

[33fromSD]

Outside of passenger door completed / prepped for primer... panel alignment turned out good....just like the driver's door, I'll do the inside prep once I remove the doors.

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Jim

[33fromSD]

Running boards, rear fenders, trunk lid and surrounding body all prepped........... I'm pooped!!

I'll pull the trunk lid, & doors tomorrow so i can do the inside of those panels and then all I have left are the door & trunk jams and I'm ready to shoot primer hopefully next weekend.

trunk handle / latch are removed so the trunk lid is up just a bit, sides pull down even with it latched.

Jim

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[HVACMAN]

Q4 Platinum Fuji Spray system arrived this morning (sorry about the mess around it). Hoping to try it out this weekend when I prime the hood & cowl....a lot depends upon the weather though. Jim

144133

Hey Jim, what tips do you use for the epoxy and the paint/primer?

[33fromSD]

Hey Jim, what tips do you use for the epoxy and the paint/primer?

This is what I'll use

1.8 for epoxy
1.3 or 1.5 for primer; for 1.3 need slightly more reducer
1.3 for paint
.8 for clear


Jim

[33fromSD]

Trunk lid & doors removed.....also masked off the bottom of the car in preparations for all the upcoming spraying, and since it was now masked off I sprayed rubberize coating on the bottoms of the running boards and rear fenders to hopefully eliminate spider cracking in the paint due to stones on the under surfaces. And it makes it look more finished.

Jim

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[Michael101]

This is what I'll use

1.8 for epoxy
1.3 or 1.5 for primer; for 1.3 need slightly more reducer
1.3 for paint
.8 for clear


Jim

I recently changed my spray gun cup to the 3M PPS 2.0 system and couldn’t be happier. Clean up is way easier, far less solvent needed too. I had several instances of a dripping cup with both the plastic and stainless Fuji cups with the gun held horizontally. The 3M system is a huge improvement on that. I can even shoot consistently with the gun upside down now without leaks.

[33fromSD]

I recently changed my spray gun cup to the 3M PPS 2.0 system and couldn’t be happier. Clean up is way easier, far less solvent needed too. I had several instances of a dripping cup with both the plastic and stainless Fuji cups with the gun held horizontally. The 3M system is a huge improvement on that. I can even shoot consistently with the gun upside down now without leaks.

Hi Michale

I was looking at that system on you tube today......The only issue is the video really didn't specify any part numbers (like the adapter for the Fuji gun, the 3M PPS 2.0 kit, disposable cups, etc) so I'll need to do some research.

Jim

[33fromSD]

Hi Michale

I was looking at that system on you tube today......The only issue is the video really didn't specify any part numbers (like the adapter for the Fuji gun, the 3M PPS 2.0 kit, disposable cups, etc) so I'll need to do some research.

Jim

Found what I need, and ordered the 3M PPS 2.0 system.....all parts should here Friday.

Jim

[HVACMAN]

Found what I need, and ordered the 3M PPS 2.0 system.....all parts should here Friday.

Jim

Which part number did you decide on? This will be my first attempt at bodywork and paint. I am determined to complete this car on my own. So far the only help I've had is a friend helped me set the body on twice. I am not going for a show piece just a 50/50 car. Looks good at 50 feet and 50mph.

[33fromSD]

Which part number did you decide on? This will be my first attempt at bodywork and paint. I am determined to complete this car on my own. So far the only help I've had is a friend helped me set the body on twice. I am not going for a show piece just a 50/50 car. Looks good at 50 feet and 50mph.

Hi HVACMAN

There isn't really one complete system / kit out there you kind of need to piece meal it together, so I pieced it together and order through Amazon....here is what I ordered

3M 26000 PPS 2.0 Spray Gun Cup, Lids and Liners Kit, Standard, 200-Micron Filter, 22 Ounces= https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070FK92W/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

3M PPS (Original Series) 16124 PPS H/O Pressure Cup with Air Hose, Large, 28 oz, 1 Pack = https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RI0GIG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

3M 26003 PPS 2.0 Spray Gun Adapter 16 mm Female, 1.5 mm Thread, 1 Pack (Fits the Fuji T75G spray gun) = https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PD7BS9Z/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I am in the same boat as you, I'm going to finish this thing from start to finish on my own, only needed my kid's help so far to take the body off when the kit was first delivered and then to put the body on to start the body work, everything else was done with my own hands. I've done other restorations, so painting I'm familiar with, but I'm not going for a show car mirror finish but my hopes are it will turn out as good as some of my other vehicles and will be a nice finish but the purist may pick it apart but then you just ask to see their work and they walk away normally.

Funny story, I did a car show last summer with my 70 Challenger and it's a nice looking car (pic attached) but not perfect by any means (I still need to do a good cut & buff on it) and the majority of the folks liked it, I actually took home an award for my class but this one joker was there about 45 minutes just walking around / ripping on it saying this is wrong, or he wouldn't have done that, etc., etc., as well correcting other's comments who were looking at it and finally I got sick of it and walked up to him and said 'let's go over and see your 70 Challenger", and the guy paused, looked stunned and finally said "what.......I don't have one" and quietly walked away. I'm fine with folks who own cars critiquing other's cars to a point, but if you don't own one and your ripping someone else car apart, just shut up.

And as a disclaimer to my comment above about doing it myself, I completely understand some folks can't or don't want to, so I am by no means saying that is wrong or ripping someone for taking that approach, to each their own is my opinion. Building it partially or building fully is still a huge deal and one we should all be proud of.

Jim

145075

[33fromSD]

This is what I'll use

1.8 for epoxy
1.3 or 1.5 for primer; for 1.3 need slightly more reducer
1.3 for paint
.8 for clear


Jim


By the way, HVACMAN, always ask for the TDS (Technical Data Sheet) for the epoxy sealer, primer, paint & clear you buy which provides mixing instructions, flash times, and most importantly tip ranges to use. The containers usually have some info but definitely not all you need.

Some suppliers don't have hard copies of the TDS but you should be able to find them online.

Jim

[33fromSD]

Finished prepping the door jams (more work than I thought), trunk jam and the inside of the trunk for primer. I just have the insides of the doors left and then another huge milestone of prepping 100% of the body is complete.

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Jim

[RoadRacer]

Pretty incredible. The cars look so completely different when they go through body prep. Kudos

[e36m3]

Hi HVACMAN

'let's go over and see your 70 Challenger", and the guy paused, looked stunned and finally said "what.......I don't have one" and quietly walked away.

145075

Perfect response. I gotta remember this! Nice Challenger and Mustang. What size are the wheels on the Challenger? I like them not too big or too small. As someone who started driving in the 70s, muscle cars with large wheels do not look right to me.

Andy

[e36m3]

Jim,

When you go to paint are you going to remove the body or leave it on the chassis?
I'm a long ways from painting, but find myslef thinking about this a lot. This will also be my first time painting a full car.
Doing a lot of reading on body prep and painting when I'm not in the barn.

Thanks,

Andy

[33fromSD]

Jim,

When you go to paint are you going to remove the body or leave it on the chassis?
I'm a long ways from painting, but find myslef thinking about this a lot. This will also be my first time painting a full car.
Doing a lot of reading on body prep and painting when I'm not in the barn.

Thanks,

Andy

Hi Andy

I'm priming it as you see it (body on), once final sanding after priming is done, then I'll paint / clear the jams, cowl area, inner hood, inner trunk, inner doors, belly pan, lower portions of the engine covers, inner edges of the front fender and reassemble everything, then paint / clear the whole body in one shot.

It's not for everyone, but this is how I do all my cars. I like painting the panels on the car for a couple reasons:

1) I can guarantee the spray orientation on each panel is the same (yes I know this can be done off the car too if you're careful
2) The way I do it, I don't have to worry about scratching freshly painted individual panels (doors, hood, trunk, engine side panels, etc) when reinstalling them after painting off the car.

Has always worked for me, it's just how I do it.

Jim

[33fromSD]

Perfect response. I gotta remember this! Nice Challenger and Mustang. What size are the wheels on the Challenger? I like them not too big or too small. As someone who started driving in the 70s, muscle cars with large wheels do not look right to me.

Andy


Thanks Andy

The wheels on the 70 Challenger are American Racing Magnum style wheels to mimic the stock versions (A lot of folks if not paying attention think they are stock), they are 15"x7 in the front and 15"x8 in the back, I can't recall tire size off hand besides the fronts are 60's and the rears are 55's but like you said they are not too big, but just right for the car. The stock magnum rims are 14x5....so tiny & skinny, just didn't look right.

Jim

[FF33rod]

I remember when 55s and 60s looked crazy, real muscle! LOL

Steve

[33fromSD]

I remember when 55s and 60s looked crazy, real muscle! LOL

Steve

Yup...compared to the 35s I have on the rear of the 33 HR, the 55s & 60s on the challenger look like racing slicks. :D

Jim

[HVACMAN]

Hi HVACMAN

There isn't really one complete system / kit out there you kind of need to piece meal it together, so I pieced it together and order through Amazon....here is what I ordered

3M 26000 PPS 2.0 Spray Gun Cup, Lids and Liners Kit, Standard, 200-Micron Filter, 22 Ounces= https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070FK92W/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

3M PPS (Original Series) 16124 PPS H/O Pressure Cup with Air Hose, Large, 28 oz, 1 Pack = https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RI0GIG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

3M 26003 PPS 2.0 Spray Gun Adapter 16 mm Female, 1.5 mm Thread, 1 Pack (Fits the Fuji T75G spray gun) = https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PD7BS9Z/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I am in the same boat as you, I'm going to finish this thing from start to finish on my own, only needed my kid's help so far to take the body off when the kit was first delivered and then to put the body on to start the body work, everything else was done with my own hands. I've done other restorations, so painting I'm familiar with, but I'm not going for a show car mirror finish but my hopes are it will turn out as good as some of my other vehicles and will be a nice finish but the purist may pick it apart but then you just ask to see their work and they walk away normally.

Funny story, I did a car show last summer with my 70 Challenger and it's a nice looking car (pic attached) but not perfect by any means (I still need to do a good cut & buff on it) and the majority of the folks liked it, I actually took home an award for my class but this one joker was there about 45 minutes just walking around / ripping on it saying this is wrong, or he wouldn't have done that, etc., etc., as well correcting other's comments who were looking at it and finally I got sick of it and walked up to him and said 'let's go over and see your 70 Challenger", and the guy paused, looked stunned and finally said "what.......I don't have one" and quietly walked away. I'm fine with folks who own cars critiquing other's cars to a point, but if you don't own one and your ripping someone else car apart, just shut up.

And as a disclaimer to my comment above about doing it myself, I completely understand some folks can't or don't want to, so I am by no means saying that is wrong or ripping someone for taking that approach, to each their own is my opinion. Building it partially or building fully is still a huge deal and one we should all be proud of.

Jim

145075

Thanks for all the information Jim. Sorry about the rookie questions. I held an ASE Master Certification for years, before switching to HVAC in the 90's, but no experience with paint and body.

The Challenger was one of my favorite MOPAR's in the 70's and yours is a very nice example. Why is it there is always one of "those guys" at every car show. It takes an equal amount of time to compliment someone's accomplishments and usually with a better outcome.

Thanks again
Andy

[33fromSD]

Thanks for all the information Jim. Sorry about the rookie questions. I held an ASE Master Certification for years, before switching to HVAC in the 90's, but no experience with paint and body.

The Challenger was one of my favorite MOPAR's in the 70's and yours is a very nice example. Why is it there is always one of "those guys" at every car show. It takes an equal amount of time to compliment someone's accomplishments and usually with a better outcome.

Thanks again
Andy

No worries at all Andy, we are all here to help and learn from each other. I'm always learning from everyone on here.

I used to do a ton of car shows with our toys but I only do a few now due to those one or two people who do noting but try to be know it alls.....just takes the fun away.

Yeah, I've alway loved the 70 Challenger.....I bought a new Sublilme Green 2015 Challenger Scat pack in 2015 and after that I knew I needed a 70 since the new style Challengers were designed after the 70. Couldn't find one in decent complete shape without spending big $$$, and then I ran into a woman who husband died and was in the middle of restoring this one. All the metal work was done and in primer stage, just needed paint, top, trim, interior, and power train. Took a solid year going through it and fixing it up.

I get quite a few looks / folks physically stopping on the street to look when I have them both parked in our driveway at home. Here's a shot of them at our storage garage.

Jim

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[FF33rod]

Gorgeous Jim!

Love Mopars

Steve

[33fromSD]

Big milestone met, inner doors are now prepped which completes 100% of the body being prepped for primer. I just need to go through all the panels with filler on them with a super bright light checking for pin holes in the body filler before I prime. Should be able to get through that relatively quickly tonight / tomorrow morning. Still hoping to prime tomorrow.

My 3M PPS 2.0 kit arrived today which should compliment the Fuji Spray system nicely.......I can't wait to try that out.

Then all that is left is to clean up the garage, mask it off and start priming.

Drivers Door:
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Passenger Door:
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Jim

[33fromSD]

Priming done....I'm going to let it sit a couple days and then start the ever so fun task of final sanding.

Jim

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[HVACMAN]

No worries at all Andy, we are all here to help and learn from each other. I'm always learning from everyone on here.

I used to do a ton of car shows with our toys but I only do a few now due to those one or two people who do noting but try to be know it alls.....just takes the fun away.

Yeah, I've alway loved the 70 Challenger.....I bought a new Sublilme Green 2015 Challenger Scat pack in 2015 and after that I knew I needed a 70 since the new style Challengers were designed after the 70. Couldn't find one in decent complete shape without spending big $$$, and then I ran into a woman who husband died and was in the middle of restoring this one. All the metal work was done and in primer stage, just needed paint, top, trim, interior, and power train. Took a solid year going through it and fixing it up.

I get quite a few looks / folks physically stopping on the street to look when I have them both parked in our driveway at home. Here's a shot of them at our storage garage.

Jim

145142

My daughters boyfriend has a 2019 Challenger Super Bee. The car is relatively quick beings it weighs in excess of 4000 lbs. and blast to drive. I can't decide which color I like best on yours. Is that Plum Crazy on the 70?

[33fromSD]

My daughters boyfriend has a 2019 Challenger Super Bee. The car is relatively quick beings it weighs in excess of 4000 lbs. and blast to drive. I can't decide which color I like best on yours. Is that Plum Crazy on the 70?

Hi Andy

Yes, Plum Crazy on the 70

Jim

[33fromSD]

Hood, trunk lid, and passenger door are done with final sanding. I should be able to finish up the drivers door tonight, then all that is left is the body...listen to me..."all that is left", I make that sound trivial like it's a 5 minute deal........ NOT!! :confused:

Actually, the new Q4 Platinum Fuji Spray turbine HVLP system lays the primer down fairly smooth so that has helped a lot with final sanding and from what I can see the body turned out the smoothest so I'm "hoping" final sanding that will be fairly quick (few hours).

The biggest issue I ran into was I had the volume on the gun up too high when I did the top of the hood (this was my first panel I sprayed, should have started on the bottom of the hood but my ego convinced me that a spray gun is a spray gun so I should be fine....nope) I left a huge booger run / material sag right down the middle of the hood so that took a bit to smooth flat but it worked out fine, there was plenty of HB primer to work with. ;)

Even if I don't get the body done before the weekend, I'm targeting spraying color / clear on the insides of the doors, hood, trunk lid, edges of the front fenders, 1/2 of the engines side cover that will be covered by the front fenders plus the edges, and the belly pan. It may work out better that way, I'm going to spread out a bit in the garage so having the body up on the lift may help keep it out of the way.

Jim

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[33fromSD]

Drivers side door done with final sanding...ready for paint / clear.

I'm going to spend the next evening or so prepping the garage to paint / clear everything I noted above this weekend. Then I'll restart work on final sanding on the body, once finished with that I'll paint / clear the jams on the body, then reassemble everything back on the car and do the final paint/clear.

Making progress!!


Jim

145450

[RoadRacer]

Can't wait to see the color on the car!!

[33fromSD]

Can't wait to see the color on the car!!

Me neither. :o

Jim

[Michael101]

.....I'm targeting spraying color / clear on the insides of the doors, hood, trunk lid, edges of the front fenders,...


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I have a question about spraying the paint/clear on two sided panels like you're talking about. When you do that do you mask the side that is not getting the paint at that time? If so, any tips to doing this? If not, how do you deal with the overspray that gets on the other surface?

[33fromSD]

I have a question about spraying the paint/clear on two sided panels like you're talking about. When you do that do you mask the side that is not getting the paint at that time? If so, any tips to doing this? If not, how do you deal with the overspray that gets on the other surface?

Hi Michael

Sorry in advance for the long response.

Masking is tricky since it's very easy to leave a viewable tape line which is difficult to get rid of without causing a lot of extra effort for yourself. On the doors, hood & trunk lid, I typically try to spray at an angle that leaves minimal over spray on the other side of the panel that I'm not intending to paint at that point, but ultimately a person if fooling themselves if they think there won't be any overspray. There will be.

When I'm ready to paint the other side (once reassembled on the body) I will scuff / lightly sand any overspray on the panel side to be painted so the paint has something to grab onto on the surface. Since your sparying the same color from the same mix batch it will blend nicely.

Then, when I reassemble everything before final paint, I will mask some things to avoid overspray in some areas and it should be fairly easy regarding not seeing tape lines. The areas I plan to mask:

* On the doors, the 33 door panel design actually makes masking the inside of the freshly painted door pretty easy without causing obvious tape lines. I plan to mask right under the upper belt line on the inside of the door down to the bottom of the door to avoid over spray on the finished inside portion.

* On the dash area, I will mask right under the upper dash lip and down which matches up with the belt line on the inside. With the Gen2 body having a separate removable dash panel, even if there is a slight tape line it will be covered by the dash panel

* On the lower portion of the engine side covers/belly pan, since I'm running full fenders, I will mask the lower portion that is covered by the front fender. I will run my tape right under the front fender since the tip of the fender meets up with the grill so there should not be any tape lines "if" I do it correctly.

* Finally on the cowl & jams, I want to mask some, but I'm not exactly sure where yet, I'll know where once I get everything reassembled and I can visualize the areas most susceptible areas to overspray.

Everything else should see minimal over spray since the doors, trunk & hood will be shut but I can easy buff any areas to clean up any overspray I may have missed.

Worrying about overspray is actually one of the arguments against doing it the way I do...Body Shops and other folks don't like to have to plan out extra time how to protect the finished side of the panels & jams from overspray while avoiding tape lines. To me, I'd rather take an extra couple hours masking everything off carefully once reassembled / properly gapped to avoid as much overspray as I can, verses spraying a panel (like a door) on both sides off the car, then risk scratching/chipping the finished paint reassembling / gapping everything.

I've done it both ways, and I've found I will spend almost equal amounts of time either masking for over spray before painting an assembled vehicle, verse masking / needing to be overly cautious making sure I don't scratch / chip something putting it back on the car and adjusting gaps after spraying both sides off the car. If you scratch or chip the finished panel or body during reassembly / gapping then you're repainting which adds more time (and money) into the equation. The funny thing about it is, if you need to repaint due to a scratch or chip, most body shops and DYIers will leave the damaged panel on the car and mask everything around it and repaint, so what have you really saved? :o

Anyway, just my thinking, definitely not for everyone.

Jim

[Michael101]

Thanks Jim! I’m about to start painting so your advice is much appreciated.

[33fromSD]

Thanks Jim! I’m about to start painting so your advice is much appreciated.

good luck..

Jim

[33fromSD]

Didn't want to piss off any of the neighbors with paint smell on this long Easter weekend, so I got up at 3AM to paint / clear my panels...overall, I'm very pleased...couple nibs I need to buff out but that is what you get when you paint in the garage. I may also do a technique called "flow coat" where you sand the the whole body once the clear cures with 600 grit, then reclear the car and then you don't need to buff, gives it a mirror finish.

I can say I indeed L-O-V-E the paint color (68 Ford Lime Gold), pics don't it do justice...not for everyone I know, but it works for me. Can't wait to see it in the sunlight....Some pics.

Front Fenders (I just painted / cleared the edges that will be up against the engine side cover and running board; kind of boring pics)
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Engine Side Covers (you'll see in the picks by the dull vs. glossy where I painted / cleared up to.)
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Doors / Hood / Trunk:
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Belly Pan (took a close up so you can see how smooth the Fuji Spray lays down the clear):
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Jim

[RoadRacer]

Love it. Just reminds me of 60's - over the top barris customs, gassers. Great color. :D

[33fromSD]

Love it. Just reminds me of 60's - over the top barris customs, gassers. Great color. :D

Thanks James

A guy I know in town here has a 68 Shelby GT-500 with this color which I have always loved.

Jim

[33fromSD]

Painted the insides of the engine side covers and the belly pan yesterday, as well as started the final sand on the body. Hoping to spray the jams / cowl next weekend.

Jim

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[e36m3]

Looks great, nice job Jim.

Andy

[33fromSD]

Another big milestone met, the final sanding of body primer is done, now I just need to clean everything up, mask things up again, clean / tack cloth, paint & clear the jams and cowl this weekend. then it's on to reassembly for final paint / clear.



Jim

[33fromSD]

I painted / cleared the jams and cowl last night...I'm pleased with the way it turned out.

Next up...reassembly of all the body panels and then final prep / paint / clear........ getting closer!! :D

Jim

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[33fromSD]

First time the plastic has been off in the front of the 33 in over a month. I'll need to mask a little once I get all the panels on but I missed this view......I like the green against the aluminum (except for the blue piece of tape I missed).

Jim

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[e36m3]

Hi Jim,

When you are spraying what do you use for respirator?
What do you use for ventilation in garage?
How far do you go with cleaning up the garage before spraying?

Thanks,

Andy

[33fromSD]

Hi Jim,

When you are spraying what do you use for respirator?
What do you use for ventilation in garage?
How far do you go with cleaning up the garage before spraying?


Thanks,

Andy

Hi Andy

- Respirator: I use a half face 3M respirator with 3M performance cartridges for organic vapors....change them out after each spray session

- Ventillatin: In the garage I have a 20" box fan mounted on our side garage window blowing fresh air in to the garage, and then on our garage access door it has a slide down window / screen so I have a 20" box fan with two filters covering it exhausting air out (the filters catch the over spray), and then near to where I am spraying I arrange three additional box fans blowing air towards the exhaust fan.

- Cleaning / Prep: I go pretty far with cleaning the car and garage...... on the car, I recover any existing plastic to lock in any dust left, I then blow down the car, wash the panels with soap and water, then use wax/grease remover, then I use a tack cloth right before I spray. For the garage, I wipe down the walls, lift, & objects close to the spray area, I spray down the garage floor, when it's dry, then I cover it with underlayment paper to seal in an remaining dust. I then cover the walls, cabinets, tool chests, etc with plastic to protect them from any overspray, but also to lock in any dust I missed. It's normally about 8-10 hours of prep before I spray.

Lots of effort to be as clean as I can but in the end, it's a garage, and you will get some minor paint nibs which are fairly easy to deal with during the final cut & buff.

Jim

[33fromSD]

Billet Aluminum step plates for the running boards came today....should look pretty good...placement in the pic is just rough until I get the interior in to know where I want the step plate.

I ordered them cause I think the painted running boards alone could get a little slippery and marked up without anything protecting them.

Jim

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[e36m3]

Hi Andy

- Respirator: I use a half face 3M respirator with 3M performance cartridges for organic vapors....change them out after each spray session

- Ventillatin: In the garage I have a 20" box fan mounted on our side garage window blowing fresh air in to the garage, and then on our garage access door it has a slide down window / screen so I have a 20" box fan with two filters covering it exhausting air out (the filters catch the over spray), and then near to where I am spraying I arrange three additional box fans blowing air towards the exhaust fan.

- Cleaning / Prep: I go pretty far with cleaning the car and garage...... on the car, I recover any existing plastic to lock in any dust left, I then blow down the car, wash the panels with soap and water, then use wax/grease remover, then I use a tack cloth right before I spray. For the garage, I wipe down the walls, lift, & objects close to the spray area, I spray down the garage floor, when it's dry, then I cover it with underlayment paper to seal in an remaining dust. I then cover the walls, cabinets, tool chests, etc with plastic to protect them from any overspray, but also to lock in any dust I missed. It's normally about 8-10 hours of prep before I spray.

Lots of effort to be as clean as I can but in the end, it's a garage, and you will get some minor paint nibs which are fairly easy to deal with during the final cut & buff.

Jim

Thanks for the great description!
Thanks,
Andy

[33fromSD]

Spent a little time these past couple nights re-assembling....just have the doors & front fenders left and then I can move to prepping (sanding / scuffing) the areas with over-spray on them before final cleaning / paint /clear.

Jim

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[FF33rod]

Coming along nicely! "Just" and "doors" don't belong in the same sentence though... ;)

Steve

[33fromSD]

All back together (including doors). Actually I didn't want to sound overly confident in a response back to Steve (FF33rod) about the doors in case I ran into issues and jinxed myself but I figured they'd line right up which they did. I was fairly confident they would since I took care of any twisting or alignment issues I had in Posts #182-185.

The only thing I need to do on the driver's door is move my striker in about 1/8" since the door is out just a hair but over all, doors line up nicely.

Now that it's all back together now I can start on prep for final paint / clear.

Jim

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[narly1]

When my day comes I don't know if I'll ever be able to muster up the courage to paint it myself. I think I could get the bodywork to within 80-90% of being done myself but after that I think I'll be leaving it to the pros.

[e36m3]

Great to hear that all the panels lined back up when you reassembled them, nice workmanship!

I've got another painting question, sorry.
I live in Michigan where the temperature can be 75F one day and 50F the next.
With you being in South Dakota you probably deal with the same situation, have you had any trouble with the maintaining the temperature in the garage when spraying?
How wide of temperature window do paint reducers usually have?
Do you wait to paint until there will be a warm/stable spell of weather?

Thanks,
Andy

[33fromSD]

Great to hear that all the panels lined back up when you reassembled them, nice workmanship!

I've got another painting question, sorry.
I live in Michigan where the temperature can be 75F one day and 50F the next.
With you being in South Dakota you probably deal with the same situation, have you had any trouble with the maintaining the temperature in the garage when spraying?
How wide of temperature window do paint reducers usually have?
Do you wait to paint until there will be a warm/stable spell of weather?

Thanks,
Andy

Hi Andy

Yeah, SoDak weather is pretty flighty (wait 5 minutes and it changes).

I don't have issue maintaining temp in my garage since it's heated and well insulated, so 24 hours before i paint I heat it up from my normal 68F to 75F and then when I paint I shut off the garage furnace (paint & furnace are a bad combination).

Any reducers, or activators I use are the 65F - 80F range. Some reducer in that temp range is called "medium" but paint suppliers are different in terminology so just go by the temp range, those are pretty standard.

The only time I really don't paint due to advice from an old body guy I know (he's retired now but a hoot to talk with) is during a heavy rain, or right after a heavy rain or high humidity. A lot of other much younger guys I know tell me it's an old wives tale about the rain but this old guy I know is old school and has seen a lot and painted a lot so I tend to rely on his experience over folks who have only been doing it for a handful of years.


Jim

[33fromSD]

When my day comes I don't know if I'll ever be able to muster up the courage to paint it myself. I think I could get the bodywork to within 80-90% of being done myself but after that I think I'll be leaving it to the pros.

It's not for everyone, and there is nothing wrong with that.

Jim

[JOP33]

When my day comes I don't know if I'll ever be able to muster up the courage to paint it myself. I think I could get the bodywork to within 80-90% of being done myself but after that I think I'll be leaving it to the pros.

I know the concept of "bodywork" is all relative based on each individual project & what each builder has in mind, but here is just a bit of food for thought for those still trying to decide how far they will go with that portion of the process themselves...
If you are leaning toward having another shop paint your car, have those discussions with the shop early on. What I found in my research (& this maybe different for all), is that MOST (reputable) shops will not touch your vehicle if they are not doing the entire process with regards to Painting the car. The reason I mention this in correlation with Bodywork is...for many shops, glass work, filler, spot primer, sealer, cut-in are ALL part of the Finishing process. Point being, it becomes difficult for them to warranty a product they don't have complete control over.

Just something to keep in mind, so you aren't performing work to find it will only need to be redone, just for the sake of the selected shop doing it.

[33fromSD]

I know the concept of "bodywork" is all relative based on each individual project & what each builder has in mind, but here is just a bit of food for thought for those still trying to decide how far they will go with that portion of the process themselves...
If you are leaning toward having another shop paint your car, have those discussions with the shop early on. What I found in my research (& this maybe different for all), is that MOST (reputable) shops will not touch your vehicle if they are not doing the entire process with regards to Painting the car. The reason I mention this in correlation with Bodywork is...for many shops, glass work, filler, spot primer, sealer, cut-in are ALL part of the Finishing process. Point being, it becomes difficult for them to warranty a product they don't have complete control over.

Just something to keep in mind, so you aren't performing work to find it will only need to be redone, just for the sake of the selected shop doing it.

That is 100% correct in SoDak too ..... any reputable body shops only want to deal with a clean slate so they know the materials going into the workmanship so they can standby their warranty.

With that said however, I do know that some reputable shops here "will" take the job of finishing started body work and all the paint work but they will not start on any work on the vehicle until you sign off on an "as-is agreement" meaning they will finish the job you started but if the final paint job has flaw / waves due to initial body work done, or it starts peeling day 1, day 30, 2 yrs down the road, etc. they will not cover it.

On the 55 F100 I'm working on, the frame was twisted really bad but repairable, I straightened it some and took it to a very reputible body shop local to me and they finished the straightening job but I needed to sign off on the as-is agreement before they started. They said it applied to the situation I noted above too with hobbyist who start the body work but get in over their heads or think they are doing the shop a favor by starting the body work.

Basically a CYA doc.

Jim

[narly1]

Good advice Jim and Jamie. My collaboration experience is limited to a 69 Mustang that I patched and filled in my later teen years and then had painted by a local guy for $300-$400 (so long ago I can't remember the exact $$ amount LOL).

I guess the game has changed a lot since then, particularly when we're talking about higher end work.

[33fromSD]

Good advice Jim and Jamie. My collaboration experience is limited to a 69 Mustang that I patched and filled in my later teen years and then had painted by a local guy for $300-$400 (so long ago I can't remember the exact $$ amount LOL).

I guess the game has changed a lot since then, particularly when we're talking about higher end work.

It's Changed a lot....$300-$400 today may get you a gallon of HB primer and reducer. HB Primer, Paint, clear, all the reducer & activators alone on the 33 for me is right at $2.5K...... then add the body fillers, labor, sanding material, etc.

Even Maaco (the uber-economical paint shop will charge about $2.5K - $4K for a paint job now a days.

Jim

[33fromSD]

Scuffed the whole car last night with 400 grit followed by 600 grit to smooth out any over-spray and cut the thicker areas of clear so the paint adheres to it.

Now it's time to clean everything thoroughly (car & garage) and start masking off for final paint / clear.

As much as I like body work & painting, I'm look forward to being done with all the dust in the garage as well as moving on to the interior & final exterior parts (handles, vents, lights, windshield, etc.).

Jim

[e36m3]

Hi Andy

Yeah, SoDak weather is pretty flighty (wait 5 minutes and it changes).

I don't have issue maintaining temp in my garage since it's heated and well insulated, so 24 hours before i paint I heat it up from my normal 68F to 75F and then when I paint I shut off the garage furnace (paint & furnace are a bad combination).

Any reducers, or activators I use are the 65F - 80F range. Some reducer in that temp range is called "medium" but paint suppliers are different in terminology so just go by the temp range, those are pretty standard.

The only time I really don't paint due to advice from an old body guy I know (he's retired now but a hoot to talk with) is during a heavy rain, or right after a heavy rain or high humidity. A lot of other much younger guys I know tell me it's an old wives tale about the rain but this old guy I know is old school and has seen a lot and painted a lot so I tend to rely on his experience over folks who have only been doing it for a handful of years.


Jim

Jim,

Thanks again for the great feedback!

In Zeeland, MI the town where I work, there is a auto body and paint supplier https://www.wyrick-co.com/ that has been in business since the 70s.
They are very helpful and willing to give out a lot of advice. They have helped me out a lot on using some 2K paints for little projects in past.
I plan on buying from them filler, primer, sealer, and paint so everything is compatiable.

Your feedback has given a lot more confidence that I can do the painting with my garage set up.

I still need to figure out what I'm going to do to cool the air down coming out of the compressor and get all the moisture out of it.
Late last summer I did some sand blasting with 60 gal 5hp single cylinder compressor with a filter and dessicant stage before the hose and a mini dissicant at the sand blaster and still had problems with moisture clogging up the blaster.

I think I'm going to something like you and Peter226 did with copper tubing.


Thanks,
Andy

[HotrodMike]

That is a great color and the quality of the paint job looks amazing in the picture, have you been spraying your own cars long? Good job keep up the good work. Can't wait to see the finished and assembled car!!

[33fromSD]

Jim,

Thanks again for the great feedback!

In Zeeland, MI the town where I work, there is a auto body and paint supplier https://www.wyrick-co.com/ that has been in business since the 70s.
They are very helpful and willing to give out a lot of advice. They have helped me out a lot on using some 2K paints for little projects in past.
I plan on buying from them filler, primer, sealer, and paint so everything is compatiable.

Your feedback has given a lot more confidence that I can do the painting with my garage set up.

I still need to figure out what I'm going to do to cool the air down coming out of the compressor and get all the moisture out of it.
Late last summer I did some sand blasting with 60 gal 5hp single cylinder compressor with a filter and dessicant stage before the hose and a mini dissicant at the sand blaster and still had problems with moisture clogging up the blaster.

I think I'm going to something like you and Peter226 did with copper tubing.


Thanks,
Andy

Hi Andy

Moisture in the line as well as risk of oil in the lines which leads to fish eyes and other defects in the paint is the reason I went to the FujiSpray airless turbine HVLP system. I am completely set up in both the garage and my shop to spray with air and I have sprayed with air in the past, I was just tired of dealing with moisture, excessive overspray, paint defects, etc as a result of air.

I looked into buying a dryer system for my compressor but it was as much, if not more than the Fuji spray system I just bought. For air tools / sand blasting, etc, I'm fine with a little moisture in the line.

Building a manifold like Peter226, and I did will help a ton, in fact the amount of water that comes out of the drain valves is amazing / almost scary, but to set the right expectations, weather (humidity) will play a huge factor with moisture in the line.

There are pretty decent filters you can get that screw into your paint gun (Your air line plugs into the filter) which do work really well for moisture / trapping occasional oil so perhaps between building yourself a manifold and adding filters on your guns, you may be able to solve the moisture issue.

We learn from each other so keep the questions coming, I'll answer anything I've had experience with.

Jim

[33fromSD]

That is a great color and the quality of the paint job looks amazing in the picture, have you been spraying your own cars long? Good job keep up the good work. Can't wait to see the finished and assembled car!!


Thanks Mike...yeah I really like the color too, as I said before, not for everyone but I wanted something unique.

I've been spraying vehicles tractors on and off for 20+ years.......but I am no expert, I'm always learning.

The finish you mention is the result of this new FujiSpray Turbine HVLP airless system I just bought, it atomizes the clear coat so finely that orange peel is kept to a minimum but I don't want to set the wrong expectations, there will be minor orange peel where if I want the ultra-mirror finish I will need to do a cut & buff.

If it turns out pretty decent, I may just drive it as is this season and then do a cut & buff in winter.

We'll see

Jim

[33fromSD]

She's painted, but she has a lot of work ahead of her. I did a couple couple stupid things in this paint job which causes the finish to come out kind of rough.

1st - I grabbed the wrong paint reducer (grabbed the one from my 55 F100 for some reason) so it caused the paint to wrinkle as I shot the first panels, so I had to stop, let it dry and sand those spots out, now of course their are a few waves in the base where I sanded....no one to blame but me

2nd - I shot my 3rd coat of clear too soon before it was fully flashed off and it caused a lot of orange peel...all fixable, but .....sigh :confused:

I'll add more pics as I get to cutting & buffing.

I love the color though

Jim

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[RoadRacer]

Yep, stunning.

[e36m3]

Color looks great on the car.

[33fromSD]

Cutting and buffing going well, but I ran into a set back, I foolishly forgot to scuff the clear coat inside my defroster vent openings in the cowl / upper dash area and about 1/4" around the vent holes which gave no "grip" for the new paint / clear to grab onto, so after I started cutting / buffing the cowl/top of the dash the clear bubbled around the vents and is lifting away.

Two ways to fix it:
1) Sand it back until I hit solid material, respray color (color blend) & reapply clear; pros = quicker, least invasive; cons = color will never match all the way (thickness, texture, metalic, etc.) and I'd never re-match the material height of the old paint / clear so you would always see a indentation if you looked hard enough.

2) Strip the entire top & sides (down to the running boards) of the cowl, reapply primer, paint & clear. Pros = It's the right way to do it, guaranteed to not have any issues and will match the best; con = it's a longer more invasive fix.

I'm going with #2, what's more time right?.....while I'd like to be done with body work, if I went with #1, I don't want to regret my decision every time I look at the cowl / top of the dash and be reminded of it.

I'm also going to complete all the cutting / buffing on the rest of the car in case I would happen to run into other issues (burn through on cut & buff, other areas clear did not grip; shouldn't be since I was pretty detail everywhere else but one never knows).

No biggie, just the joys of working on cars

Jim

[narly1]

What a heartbreaker. Maybe time for a 2-tone colour scheme?

[33fromSD]

What a heartbreaker. Maybe time for a 2-tone colour scheme?

:)

It is what it is...... nothing that cannot be fixed..... in my younger days I admit I would have been irate over something like this, but now in my 50s, stuff like this is just part of taking on big projects. Can't sweat the small stuff.

Jim

[HotrodMike]

I certainly hope to be able to approach my project with that cool no stress attitude, I applaud you for your patience.

[FF33rod]

Hang in there Jim, they're never really finished anyway ;)

Steve

[e36m3]

Sorry to hear about the set back. At least you know why the clear lifted and how to fix it.

[33fromSD]

Hang in there Jim, they're never really finished anyway ;)

Steve

That's half the fun isn't it Steve?

Heck, I just had to move our 65 mustang (first time since last fall) to get my trailer out for something and found a nice puddle of antifreeze under it...the water pump gasket decided to let go during winter. Oh well.....

Jim

[33fromSD]

Cutting & Buffing continues, no other issues so far. I have now finished the driver's door, driver's running board, driver's rear quarter and drivers fender.... Taking about an hour per panel.

It's not "perfect" to the car show purists, but pretty damn good...still a little orange peel left, but minimal and it's actually better than our brand new Lincoln Navigator which was factory painted, but this is going to be a driver, not a garage queen so I'm not looking for perfection.

My expectations for the paint finish when starting the project was ....a unique vehical not many or possibly anyone has in town (check), a really nice gloss on the finish (check), and looks nice up close but not perfect but really only noticed by the purists (check).

If someone has issues with it, I'll hand then the 1K, 2K, 3K, 5K grit sanding discs with the DA & polishing compound and tell them to have at it and I'll pick it up when it's done. :)

Jim

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[33fromSD]

Minus the thin body section between the door and the side engine cover (that is part of the strip / repaint area I need to do) the driver's side is now done with cut & buff. Pictures actually don't due the color a lot of justice but they came out pretty good. Same as above, not perfect, but looks pretty good. These big fenders are kind of a pain to cut & buff.

Jim

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[narly1]

I've never noticed the "dip" in the fender towards the cowl side before. Such a beautiful detail...they don't design 'em like they used to.

[33fromSD]

I've never noticed the "dip" in the fender towards the cowl side before. Such a beautiful detail...they don't design 'em like they used to.

No they do not.

[rtbellah]

Getting the beer and popcorn to watch this properly ;)
If you need something to do, answer this question: what colour is it going to be? If I had a buck for every time that question was asked... LOL

Steve

Steve...you gave me an idea....I'm going to hang a sign in the garage that says "if you ask what color this car will be there will be a fine of $1.00. When my kit arrives and I start the build I know I will get lots of lookie-loos and I'll just point to the sign...might get enough to buy the beer during the build! :p

[FF33rod]

Man you're doing an amazing job!

[33fromSD]

Steve...you gave me an idea....I'm going to hang a sign in the garage that says "if you ask what color this car will be there will be a fine of $1.00. When my kit arrives and I start the build I know I will get lots of lookie-loos and I'll just point to the sign...might get enough to buy the beer during the build! :p

Fine should be $10.00....if its anything like the guys that hang around with me before I picked the color if I had charged that between them and family members asking what color I probably could have paid for the paint. :)

Jim

[33fromSD]

Man you're doing an amazing job!


Thanks Steve

[33fromSD]

Took yesterday off to get some stuff done on the car since today and this weekend I won't work on it at all due to a wedding in Wisconsin.

After I got some long over due chores done, I spent a few hours on the 33. I got the engine side cover, front fender and door on the passenger side cut & buffed. The body cowl (between the door & engine cover is not done, that will be repainted / cleared to blend with the cowl that needs to be repainted). This side turned out really well. Now that I'm getting more comfortable with the cut / buff process I may go back on a few other panels on the driver's side that still look good but could be even better.

Jim

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[Michael101]

That looks awesome!

[Straversi]

She’s a beauty.
-Steve

[33fromSD]

Except for the little section between the door and engine side cover (part of the cowl I'm going to repaint), the passenger side is now all cut & buffed. Pics aren't the best since I'm only 3 feet from the wall but you get the idea.

Next up I'll cut & buff the trunk and areas around it, then move to the hood, and then hopefully prep (sand / prime) & repaint / clear the cowl area.

Getting closer

Jim

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[33fromSD]

Trunk and surrounding areas done.....pics aren't the best and don't do it justice, not a perfect job but turned out nice. I'll include full car pics when I get this thing into the sun. Hood next

Jim

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[Michael101]

Looks fantastic Jim

[33fromSD]

Hood is done, now on to correcting (sand / prime / paint / clear) the cowl.

We help each other on this forum and we learn from each other, so on the hood, in the last pic you'll see some streaks.....

Why is that many will ask?....this actually is not in the base coat of the paint, the is in the first layer of clear when I did the light tack coat.

Why do you do a light tack coat?...... You do a light tack coat, so the clear adheres to the base coat but is light enough to prevent runs (once a run starts, each layer thickens the run) and then your follow-on heavier coat stick to the tack coat and will not run.

Unfortunately I didn't realize it at the time that volume on the gun was too low and I did not catch it in time because the tack coat being very light flashes very quickly....it flashes in about 1-2 minutes verses the normal 7-10 minutes for a heavy coats of clear to flash. Once it flashed it skined over and it did not blend properly with the first of the 3 heavy follow-on coats of clear and it permanently (until it's fixed) trapped those streak in the layers.

Layers of clear coat act like a magnifying glass, the more layers of clear, the more focused any defects become. Before I cut & buffed the hood, the orange peel that was on the hood actually made these spots not even noticeable (which is why I missed it originally) but once the orange peel is removed and you buff the panel it exposes the defect through the clear.

Is it fixable or do I need to strip & repaint the hood? For now it is what it is, it's very fixable, but I'm to the point where I want to get this thing on the road for the summer and drive it. Any one who has a problem with it that sees it in person can voice their opinion and then I will probably voice my opinion about asking to see the cars they painted. In winter when I have all the time in the world, I will strip the clear down to the base coat and respray it, but for now, unless you're directly over it, as you can see from the other 3 pics the gloss hides it a lot.

The issue is with 3 heavy layers of clear, there is quite a bit of material to carefully get through without going through the base coat, if I do that, then I will have to strip / repaint the whole hood and at this point there is no reason to do that. It's kind of like peeling an onion, you need to carefully go layer by layer.

A lot of non-car people will probably not even notice it, but I do, but I'm not here to hide anything from any of you because then we don't learn from each other.

Jim

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[narly1]

I "liked" your last post not because of the outcome with your hood but rather your willingness to share why it happened.

[33fromSD]

I "liked" your last post not because of the outcome with your hood but rather your willingness to share why it happened.

Thanks narly1, the only way we learn is to understand why / how things happen.

Jim

[HotrodMike]

That looks fantastic, great job on the paint, cut and buff!!! I hope mine turns out half as good...

[RoadRacer]

Yes, Time to have some well deserved fun with it!

[e36m3]

Jim,
The car looks great to me, I can only hope that my car turns out nearly as well.
Thanks for sharing the difficulties you've had and your analysis of what went wrong.
While I'm building my car, I've read a couple books on car painting and none of them mentioned not to let the tack coat skin over.
Great info, thanks!

Andy

[33fromSD]

Well, the cowl repair work is progressing along. Got the area sanded downed and primed over the weekend and I just final sanded it and got things prepped for final color / clear. Some will argue I wouldn't have needed primer, but I'm not taking any chances this time around. This way it allowed me to use 120 grit when sanding which created a really good surface for the primer to bite too.

Those wondering why I did part of the rockers, the simple answer is I could not find a good transition point on the rocker in the front of the door area (would be too obvious) so I removed the doors and prepped it all the way by the back go the door. This way you'll have to look hard to see the paint seam.

Jim

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[33fromSD]

I got the cowl / rockers painted / cleared last night, very late night, I waited 3 hours after the final coat of clear to remove the masking. I just need to let it sit a few days and then I'll do the final cut / buff in those areas and then I check body work / final finish off the to-do list.

On the overall timeframe, it's not too bad...... I'm 7 months & 8 days in from when the kit arrived (kit arrived 9/25/2020).

Once the cut & buff is done then I'll reassemble the all lights, install engine side cover port holes & running board stop plates, exterior and exterior door handles, windshield and then start on the interior.

Jim

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[33fromSD]

So the registration process begins......

SoDak actually changed how they do kit cars 6 months ago, so now I needed to fill in an application for Title & Registration as well as filled in a parts affidavit for a rebuild (they now consider Manufactured Kits as rebuilds) and had to send in my MSO paperwork from FFR and all receipts into the state. I feel little nervous handing all my receipts and MSO in without anything in return.

Then In 2-4 weeks they will contact me for a location to take the car for an inspection which will be interesting since they didn't give me a temp plate so I guess I'll trailer it there.

Once the inspection is done the state sends the paperwork through for a title and I can get my title & license. Thinking they make that sound way too smooth.

Interestingly enough though, one of the questions on the affidavit was engine serial number and proof of invoice (with S/N) listed if it wasn't pulled from another vehicle. Glad I had what I had from BP, they document it very well.

Guess I better get this car finished up in case the inspection place calls.

Jim

[33fromSD]

Busy Saturday.....I'll break this into two posts since I took a lot of pics

Was planning an outside yard work / honey-do day but it turned out to be a very wet gloomy day so I made a garage day out of it.

Polished the aluminum windshield frame, installed the defrost vents (they look crooked but they follow the angle of the windshield frame, the angle of the photo makes it look crooked) and installed the windshield
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Installed the ports in the engine side covers as well as the running board step plates
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Installed the head lights (I still need to polish the aluminum on the grill)
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Installed the rear lights, the license plate bracket and the exhaust ports
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Moved on to the dash panel (next post)

Jim

[33fromSD]

Moved on to the dash next

Prepped the Dash with 220 grit sand paper and wiped down with wax/grease remover
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Best vinyl adhesive IMHO...been using it for years. Never had any issues.
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The only negative is after the adhesive dries on both surfaces and you lay the vinyl over the surface you better have it where to want it because once pressure is applied the two surface it's locked and not moving. If you worked the vinyl wrong and there is wrinkle or your material is crooked, you're screwed. Any mistakes at that point are basically fixed by you ripping off the vinyl, reprepping the surface, and getting a new piece of vinyl.

Laid Vinyl ( I laid it in 4 sections but only took a pic of the first so those not familiar with vinyl installation get an idea of how it's done)
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Trimmed all holes on the dash
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Installed any gauges I could prior to installing the dash panel in the car
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Installed panel in car and installed all the switches and the stereo
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Jim

[sethmark]

You’ve built a beautiful car.

[33fromSD]

You’ve built a beautiful car.

Thank You

Jim

[Mitchelle]

It looks so nice, I really like your choice of color.

[j33ptj]

What made you decide to use that marine radio?

Robert

[33fromSD]

What made you decide to use that marine radio?

Robert

Many things.....Small foot print, something unique, chrome bezel matches closely to the gauge cluster and clock, liked the looked

Jim

[cob427sc]

I have used the same and similar adhesives over the years and the trick I have used is to place a piece of wax paper on top of one surface, lay the fabricate on top and get it aligned, the slide the paper out as you press the fabric down onto the dash or similar hard surface. The flatter the surface the better this works but at least it helps eliminate the possibility of wrinkles, etc and having to start over. Learned this technique from a kitchen counter top builder who glued formica sheets to the underlayment.

[33fromSD]

I have used the same and similar adhesives over the years and the trick I have used is to place a piece of wax paper on top of one surface, lay the fabricate on top and get it aligned, the slide the paper out as you press the fabric down onto the dash or similar hard surface. The flatter the surface the better this works but at least it helps eliminate the possibility of wrinkles, etc and having to start over. Learned this technique from a kitchen counter top builder who glued formica sheets to the underlayment.

Yup....agree, I use the wax paper trick when I'm doing vinyl tops on cars....on small items like the dash panel or the waterfall on the 33 I just do it in smaller sections so I can work the area without wax paper. Great trick for those new to it though.

Jim

[progmgr1]

I found that using ordinary newspaper worked just as well as wax paper - back in the day when there were newspapers...
Keith HR #894

[j33ptj]

what are newspapers???

[33fromSD]

So the registration process begins......

SoDak actually changed how they do kit cars 6 months ago, so now I needed to fill in an application for Title & Registration as well as filled in a parts affidavit for a rebuild (they now consider Manufactured Kits as rebuilds) and had to send in my MSO paperwork from FFR and all receipts into the state. I feel little nervous handing all my receipts and MSO in without anything in return.

Then In 2-4 weeks they will contact me for a location to take the car for an inspection which will be interesting since they didn't give me a temp plate so I guess I'll trailer it there.

Once the inspection is done the state sends the paperwork through for a title and I can get my title & license. Thinking they make that sound way too smooth.

Interestingly enough though, one of the questions on the affidavit was engine serial number and proof of invoice (with S/N) listed if it wasn't pulled from another vehicle. Glad I had what I had from BP, they document it very well.

Guess I better get this car finished up in case the inspection place calls.

Jim

One step closer....The 33 is fully insured now (through Hagerty where I have my other classics). Guess I can check off the "proof of insurance" box now.

Jim

[33fromSD]

I finished up the vinyl install on the waterfall this morning before work...not perfect, but looks pretty good....hoping to install it tonight.

Jim

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[Blade]

I like how your waterfall came out.I'm about a week from doing the one on my car. I'm curious about the transitions at the top left and right and how they were accomplished. I planned on doing mine in three sections using Hidem double stitch to conceal the joint. What are your thoughts. Can the whole piece be covered with a single sheet of vinyl?

[33fromSD]

I got the Waterfall installed last night....I still need to figure out how I'm going to attached the padded trim around the waterfall. In the front (by the doors) I'm going use the rag top threaded mounts, just need to figure out the rear (probably will fasten it in 3 spots).

Next up is the trans tunnel....little bit of modifying needed for the hydraulic clutch salve cylinder (and I want to try to buy a little more foot room for the accelerator pedal).

Jim

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[33fromSD]

Did you guys notice an expiration date on your Simpson Belts? I assume this is only for track inspection and not the road but interested in hearing other's opinions.

Jim

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[33fromSD]

I like how your waterfall came out.I'm about a week from doing the one on my car. I'm curious about the transitions at the top left and right and how they were accomplished. I planned on doing mine in three sections using Hidem double stitch to conceal the joint. What are your thoughts. Can the whole piece be covered with a single sheet of vinyl?

The left & right panels are what I'll call cheater panels. I actually did cover the whole piece in one single sheet of vinyl (lots of effort / stretching) but the corners are really stretched and then with relief cuts in the upper lip corners that fastens to the body, some of the fiberglass was exposed so I made the left and right triangular cheater panels to cover that. With the padded trim piece on, you most likely would not have seen that but once that is removed for the rag top it would have been obvious so I made the triangular cheater panels to cover the exposed fiberglass so it's covered no matter what.

I just pulled vinyl around piping I had and hand stiched around piping in the front to give it a finish look and then the panel is glued in place (I roughed up the vinyl under it so the glue would bite; it's not going anywhere, can't even peel it up).

I was a better solution than paying a local upholstery shop $600 to do it (seemed really high to me).

Jim

[RoadRacer]

Next up is the trans tunnel....little bit of modifying needed for the hydraulic clutch salve cylinder (and I want to try to buy a little more foot room for the accelerator pedal).


I made up an aluminum tunnel to maximize foot room.. and got more than needed. You still want your right foot to be able to lean against something! So mock it up before deciding..


Did you guys notice an expiration date on your Simpson Belts? I assume this is only for track inspection and not the road but interested in hearing other's opinions.


Yes, track-only, and even then when "proper racing" with tech inspection, etc. In my experience, for fun track days and street use no-one cares.

[33fromSD]

I made up an aluminum tunnel to maximize foot room.. and got more than needed. You still want your right foot to be able to lean against something! So mock it up before deciding..



Yes, track-only, and even then when "proper racing" with tech inspection, etc. In my experience, for fun track days and street use no-one cares.

Thanks James

Jim

[33fromSD]

Trans tunnel modified and installed and sound dampening installed. The trans tunnel really transforms the inside. Looks like a normal interior now.

Carpet is next.....need to figure out all the various pieces they supplied.

Jim

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[33fromSD]

Anyone know if someone produces sill plates for the Gen 2 body on the 33 HR? Gen 1s have the straight sill, Gen 2s have the slant for easier access.

Trying to figure out what to do there.

Jim

[33fromSD]

Busy weekend....carpet installed, belts installed, shifter boot installed, emergency brake book installed, floor mats installed, seats installed (with Breeze risers), center console cover installed and then I got both doors installed but I only got the exterior handle on the passenger door installed. Between all the above, and a bunch of yard work on two houses I ran out of gusto. I really like the way the interior turned out.

Next up I need to install the driver side exterior handle, both door panels (with pull handle and speaker), install carpet in the trunk, and fit the rage top to be sure nothing moved when I reinstalled the windshield. Getting very close to a completed car. May 25th will be exactly 8 months since I got my kit from FFR.

Discovered I suffered the Moser 8.8" rear end seal leak like many others.....I debated pulling the cover when I first installed it but talked myself out of it...oh well...guess I'll pull that some time this week / next weekend. Then I'll get the front tires balanced (did the rears a couple weeks ago; some of the weights from original mounting from FFR fell off in transit), do the alignment, do some tweaking to make sure everything is operating right and then I guess I'll cover it until the state calls for my inspection.

Having our home garage floor epoxied in the next 1-2 weeks so I want to make sure this thing is covered out of the dust. I have one neighbor who I'm guessing will call the police if I run it around the neighborhood a few times without plates on it. I got an earful in November when I go-Karted it so no sense taking a chance now that it's done.

By the way, I'm so glad I had the doors off for installing the interior, for those having interior coming up, I would suggest the same. Much easier.

Jim

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[RoadRacer]

I have one neighbor who I'm guessing will call the police if I run it around the neighborhood a few times without plates on it. I got an earful in November when I go-Karted it so no sense taking a chance now that it's done.


Ugh that sucks. Neighbors are such a random crapshoot.

But on the plus side, you car is soon going to make a beautiful Picture Of the Month (POM); I can see it now!

[33fromSD]

Ugh that sucks. Neighbors are such a random crapshoot.

But on the plus side, you car is soon going to make a beautiful Picture Of the Month (POM); I can see it now!

Thanks James...I've had a blast building this thing...almost sad it's close to being done but fear not, then I will get back to my 67 mustang convertible that is waiting on final body prep and my 55 F100 which is in mid-restoration.

Jim

[33fromSD]

Before work this morning I got the Driver's side exterior handle and both door mirrors installed

Jim

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[JimLev]

Looks great Jim.
Can you provide some info on the metal plate you have on the running boards?
Thanks.

[33fromSD]

Hi Jim

Thanks...here is the link I ordered it from. Sounds weird being a truck step plate but the size / placement worked out perfect for where the seats are mounted. On mine at least you step right out onto the plate.

https://www.raneystruckparts.com/custom-step-plate-with-optional-insert-by-iowa-customs/

I ordered the 6"x20" Billet aluminum, they have many options

Jim

[33fromSD]

Driver's side door panel fitted / installed last night...that was actually quite the PITA to do...probably the hardest part of the interior to this point and I'm almost done.

The problem is the Gen2 door panels (not sure if Gen1 is the same) are 1/8" thick aluminum so they are really stiff and the doors have a couple contours / angles in the design so they is not a flat surface to just lay the flat door panel in and fasten it. There is quite a bit of bending / shaping to do.

Had I known this I would have done this at the stage before my doors were painted so I could lay the doors flat on a surface and work the proper shape of the panel. Trying to do this with a door that is hung is a little challenging. Oh well.

looks good though. I'll hopefully tackle the passenger door tonight, not sure if we have other things to do yet or not.

Jim

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[HotrodMike]

Driver's side door panel fitted / installed last night...that was actually quite the PITA to do...probably the hardest part of the interior to this point and I'm almost done.

The problem is the Gen2 door panels (not sure if Gen1 is the same) are 1/8" thick aluminum so they are really stiff and the doors have a couple contours / angles in the design so they is not a flat surface to just lay the flat door panel in and fasten it. There is quite a bit of bending / shaping to do.

Had I known this I would have done this at the stage before my doors were painted so I could lay the doors flat on a surface and work the proper shape of the panel. Trying to do this with a door that is hung is a little challenging. Oh well.

looks good though. I'll hopefully tackle the passenger door tonight, not sure if we have other things to do yet or not.

Jim

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You have done an amazing job on this project, I start mine next month and I will be referring to your build thread in the future. Great work!!!

[33fromSD]

You have done an amazing job on this project, I start mine next month and I will be referring to your build thread in the future. Great work!!!

Thank You Mike....

Jim

[33fromSD]

Now that I knew where to bend the door panel the passenger side went much smoother. Excuse the darker sections on the panel, this was right after I wiped it down to remove the dust.

Sooooo close to finishing the interior, just need to mount the padded trim piece above the waterfall mount the rear view mirror, put the 2.5" plugs in the door to cover the hole for the exterior handle latch and find something for around the hinge holes.

Jim

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[FF33rod]

Fantastic Job Jim, looks super.
Gen 1 door panels are the same, thick aluminum. One of my door panels looks like it will fit fine, the other doesn't fit well at all. Not sure if it's because they replaced my gen 1 doors with gen 2 or what. However, i'm going to do custom panels anyway - got some of the Hagan components to do that :) Not sure about you but the thought that the main part of the build will be done and that I will have built a fricking car feels rather surreal at the moment

Steve

[33fromSD]

Fantastic Job Jim, looks super.
Gen 1 door panels are the same, thick aluminum. One of my door panels looks like it will fit fine, the other doesn't fit well at all. Not sure if it's because they replaced my gen 1 doors with gen 2 or what. However, i'm going to do custom panels anyway - got some of the Hagan components to do that :) Not sure about you but the thought that the main part of the build will be done and that I will have built a fricking car feels rather surreal at the moment

Steve

Thanks Steve...yeah, I know what you mean, I went through all my google pics (more than what is on this forum) this past weekend and it was really wild to watch the transformation from bare frame to a complete car (some of it I already forgot).

I've done full restorations before so one could say I've built many cars but those were different, they were built and I tore them apart, so it wasn't like I was working with a blank slate. The 33 HR is even more special to me because we are given a frame, body panels and numerous boxes of parts and it's up to us to put these cars together from the ground up and modify them to our own personal preference.

Sure, there is a manual provided, but I think all of us who have built or are building a FFR project will agree, the manual doesn't come close to covering everything to build these cars.

Then there was working with fiberglass which was completely new to me but it was great, I learned a ton and added even more experience to wheel house. If there was anything that intimidated me on this project it was the fiberglass, but in the end, it all worked out fine. I've turned down helping a lot of friends in the past not knowing a lot about fiberglass, but now I'll help in an instant since I understand it and am comfortable with it.

Truly a special moment with great memories building this car, and I will always have a unique sense of pride on this car. My adult kids like it too ad are already heckling each other over who gets the 33 when Dad is no longer around. :rolleyes:

Also fun to have neighbors stop by and ask a lot of questions on it. Can't wait to get the registration / titling done so I can get it out on the road.

Jim

[33fromSD]

Interior besides a good cleaning is 100% done....another big milestone reached.

Tonight I got the padded trim above the waterfall installed, I installed the plug caps in the doors, installed finish trim (just weather stripping) around the hinge holes and installed the rear view mirror on the windshield.

Next up is carpeting the trunk, then the build will be physically complete, I will also install the rag top to reverify fit. Can't wait to see the black top against the green.

I will then do things like fixing the leak in the moser 8.8 rear end, doing the alignment, going through and checking torque on all bolts, various system checks, etc., then I wait form my inspection.

Jim

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[33fromSD]

Carpeting in trunk done...waiting on my battery cover to come in

Jim

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[33fromSD]

Rag Top & curtains installed to verify fit, all lined up nice.

I'll leave it on now until I get an appt for my inspection to cut down on dust on the inside.

Jim

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[HotrodMike]

Rag Top & curtains installed to verify fit, all lined up nice.

I'll leave it on now until I get an appt for my inspection to cut down on dust on the inside.

Jim

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Your build came out great, such attention to detail. I really love the accents you added to the exterior and the tail lights. That is one clean machine, stellar performance!!

[33fromSD]

Your build came out great, such attention to detail. I really love the accents you added to the exterior and the tail lights. That is one clean machine, stellar performance!!

Thanks Mike

Jim

[RoadRacer]

Your build came out great, such attention to detail. I really love the accents you added to the exterior and the tail lights. That is one clean machine, stellar performance!!

Yeah, I've never considered painting mine, but damn..

P.S. nice to finally see the whole car, I feel you've been teasing us with closeups :D

[33fromSD]

Yeah, I've never considered painting mine, but damn..

P.S. nice to finally see the whole car, I feel you've been teasing us with closeups :D

Thanks James

Next week after they finish up epoxying our garage floor I get this thing outside to get some better pics.

This weekend it's all about emptying the garage in preparation for that.

Jim

[cob427sc]

Great build. Picked up some ideas for mine already completed --- oh yea, these cars are never really done. I'm making a list of all the modifications I can do next winter based on yours and other cars. Just wish I'd thought of some of these earlier!

[33fromSD]

Hot damn..... just got a call from the state, my inspection is set up for 2:00 PM next Wednesday, June 2nd.

Fingers crossed. He noted all other paperwork (engine & transmission history) looks good.

Jim

Have a good holiday weekend everyone!!

[33fromSD]

The guy I talked to on the phone about the inspection said some things that were really odd to, that I cannot stop thinking about...

I asked if there was a hit list of things they are looking for so I can make sure I have those items covered like lights, horn, wiper, seatbelts, etc. so everything goes smoothly and he said they don't focus on the safety stuff at all, they are merely inspecting it making sure that two things are met....

#1) the car is complete and they are not registering / titling an unfinished car
and
#2) that I built the car which matches the paper work I submitted to the state (which was basically my FFR invoice and the BP engine invoices).

He also said it's up to me whether I want to drive it in (they are sending me a letter to give to my local office for a temporary plate) or trailer it in. He said either is fine with them and if I trailer it in, they may not even request for me to take it off, if they can see everything with the car on the trailer.

Very Odd.... guess I'll find out in a week

Jim

[McGuyver]

Looks like you have #1 & #2 covered with ease! Here’s to a successful inspection.

[33fromSD]

Now that the 33 is done I promised my wife no more huge messes is the main garage so I had the garage floor epoxy coated yesterday (the crew loved the 33 but hated working around and under the lift) and I painted it the garage today after the 12 hour waiting period.

Ignore the 2x4 shelves & the different color walls, I plan on remove all the stuff from the shelves this winter and painting it as a mini project. Key goal for today was getting the garge walls painted (used to be the tan you see in the shelves) so I can move all my stuff back in tomorrow. I need my trailer to move my son into his house tomorrow.....lots going on.

Turned out pretty good.

Jim

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[FF33rod]

Far too clean, it's clear you need another project....

Steve

[33fromSD]

Far too clean, it's clear you need another project....

Steve

I hear ya Steve,

I have deck on the back of our house to resurface (getting rid of the old cedar decking and putting in maintenance free decking) and once that is done I'll pick back up on the 55 F100 build which is in process at the shop verses the home garage, but I may take the summer off to play with the rest of the toys. Latest pics of the 55 attached.....frame is refinished, new box is fitted, floor of the cab is sand blasted / painted, not I need to strip the cab.

Jim

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[33fromSD]

As mentioned previously my diff started leaking so I removed the diff cover on the Moser 8.8" rear end this morning & resealed it. Not surprising it leaked, Moser did not grind / sand off the chrome on the inside gasket surface and then applied a very thin (like thin enough to still see the chrome through it) before installing the gasket & fastening it.

Why bother even putting a gasket or sealer on then? A little surprising from Moser considering rear ends is a big portion of what they do.

Should be good to go now, I'll refill it tomorrow morning and then I'll go through everything in preparations for the inspection on Wednesday this week.

Jim

[sethmark]

Look up lube locker. Vastly superior.

[33fromSD]

Car runs great....I went over to my neighbor this weekend who can be a stickler as I mentioned earlier and showed them the letter from the state for inspection and asked if he minded if I drove it around the blocks a few time to make sure things were good for the inspection. He reluctantly said fine but then I offered to take him for a ride too to help. He loved it.

Got it loaded on the trailer this morning for heading to the inspection site tomorrow. Had no issues until I got to the running boards and before I knew it I heard "s-c-r-a-p-e........." and a slight cracking sound....got out and noticed the running boards..... Son of a gun....while I frustrated, it's all fixable. The good news is it's all cosmetic...the running boards are still solid as a rock, no flexing or cracking when I step on them. My guess is because they are solid that's why they cracked since there was no give.

I'm going to build ramps to go under the aluminum ramps on my trailer to ease the accent and descent angle.

I'll touch it up for now to make it look presentable and then do a better fix in winter when it's in storage. Always something, but if you think about it, it's going to get some road rash anyway from driving. Just would have liked to drive it on the road first to get the road rash. ;)

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[e36m3]

Jim,

Bummer on the running boards, happens to the best of us. I just got my dash panel back from the powder coater last week and chipped it before I even got it in the garage.

What did you use for a cover over the battery? I'm using the same hold down you are.

Thanks,
Andy

[33fromSD]

Jim,

Bummer on the running boards, happens to the best of us. I just got my dash panel back from the powder coater last week and chipped it before I even got it in the garage.

What did you use for a cover over the battery? I'm using the same hold down you are.


Thanks,
Andy

Still in the process for searching for one....The one I ordered and which came in was supposed to be for a Group 51R battery like our battery but it was huge so I'm not going use it....I'm playing with the idea of cutting it down to the size I want and then fiberglassing it back together.

Jim

[RoadRacer]

Had no issues until I got to the running boards and before I knew it I heard "s-c-r-a-p-e........." and a slight cracking sound....

That really sucks. :(

[tony]

we've all been there. I scratched my grill real nice fitting the hood.
148914

[narly1]

Never done....never done....never done....when you think you are, repeat this to yourself....never done...

[33fromSD]

Never done....never done....never done....when you think you are, repeat this to yourself....never done...

I somehow want to call you Dorthy (from the Wizard of Oz) but I don't want you to hall off an smack me. ;)

[33fromSD]

we've all been there. I scratched my grill real nice fitting the hood.
148914


ugh.....I hear you

[j33ptj]

the first scratch hurts the most.... :D

[33fromSD]

the first scratch hurts the most.... :D

Yup

[narly1]

I somehow want to call you Dorthy (from the Wizard of Oz) but I don't want you to hall off an smack me. ;)

LOL, I get it. Maybe "It's a journey, not a destination" is more appropriate?

Knowing for yourself that you did, can and will be able to handle any bumps thrown at you by your project is the best feeling EVER.

[33fromSD]

LOL, I get it. Maybe "It's journey, not a destination" is more appropriate?

Knowing for yourself that you did, can and will be able to handle any bumps thrown at you by your project is the best feeling EVER.

Amen to dat!!

[33fromSD]

First off, let me start by saying I Love SoDak!! They have the most simplistic approach to everything.

Arrived at the inspection place ~1:30PM (appt was 2PM), the inspector met me as I pulled in, asked if I'd pull the truck/trailer to the side, instructed me to leave the car on the trailer (Yay) and started his inspection. Same as I noted earlier, he was verifying the FFR MSO s/n matched the stamp on the frame, he verified the engine s/n, verified the milage on the odometer (2 miles) did a minor once over and said beautiful car, we are good to go. 10 minutes from start to finish...another 20 minutes to just shoot the s**t.

He informed me "this is not a safety inspection, anything safety realted is between me and the local authorities if I ever get pulled over and they see something they think is not allowed it's up to me to fix". He noted "We assume you built a car with safety in mind so I am here to make sure you build the car with the parts you noted in your application". He filled out and signed off my paper work (the examination report) for registration, told me how much excise tax (3% of value) I should expect to pay @ the county treasurer when I go to register it, he attached the VIN plate and asked if I had any questions.

He needs tomorrow to scan in my paper work and Friday I can register my 33. SoDak considers this a 2021 model year which is fine, the make will be 33 Hot Rod. He was not sure whether I could do the single plate option or not, they would let me know that at the treasurer's office.

I can stamp the vin on the metal plate FFR supplied if I wish and put it where I want on the car as an additional location for the VIN but in SoDak's eyes the blue tag that they attached in an easily visible location is the legal VIN plate.

Jim

148952

[FF33rod]

Woohoo, almost there!

Steve

[sethmark]

Bad ***. Congrats on the next step. Wait until you get in it and just use it as transportation. People look at you like you’re nuts.

[33fromSD]

Bad ***. Congrats on the next step. Wait until you get in it and just use it as transportation. People look at you like you’re nuts.

Even trailering it yesterday I think I caused some neck sprains and a couple people almost rear ending others from staring at the car and not paying attention to things in front of them. :rolleyes:

One guy took a pic.

Kind of funny

[sethmark]

I drove from Colorado to South Carolina with an unfinished FFR Cobra on an open trailer in 2013. You would have thought I had a van full of naked people with the attention I got. A LOT of it from middle
aged women. Lol

[BC Huselton]

I drove from Colorado to South Carolina with an unfinished FFR Cobra on an open trailer in 2013. You would have thought I had a van full of naked people with the attention I got. A LOT of it from middle
aged women. Lol

Hey coming to the Race at VIR Sat the 5th. You be at your shop? What building number...OK to stop By BC? Phone number to reach you?
I have an 818 and a 33, currently.

[sethmark]

Unfortunately I’ll be MIA for this weekend. I’ve been humping 7 days a week since the 24 hr Daytona race and I’m taking my girls on vacation. There are a LOT of cars on property, including the super trofeo Lamborghinis. Should be fun.


https://youtu.be/iwMDQQVWzQc

[BC Huselton]

Enjoy the time off.

I am in Cary, NC and come often so will check back.

Best, BC

BTW, know anyone who would like a 818?
149005