JimLev's Build

[Mastertech5]

Sweet! Looks awsome

[progmgr1]

I found the following long screed in my "build tips" file (no guarantee of utility or accuracy)(unfortunately, I didn't save the source either):

REAR ALIGNMENT--IRS

To make adjustments to the IRS control arms, you will have to unbolt the rod ends when you twist them in or out as needed, which obviously cannot be done with the weight on the rear wheels. IRS alignment is a somewhat tedious process of trial and error, but it only has to be done once. The process is made much easier if the rear cockpit panel, the upper trunk floor, and body shell are not yet mounted, so do this early in your build!.

First thing you need to do is sit the frame on blocks, at ride height, on perfectly level ground (check and shim with Masonite, cardboard, etc.). The wheels need to be exactly level from side-to-side. Measure with a long 2x4 across the tops of the tires, or a long clear plastic tube filled with water. Or park them on a flat surface that you have confirmed as level. Most garage floors are close to level, but you may need shims. The car need not be level fore-and-aft. Remove the rear coilovers or back the spring way off. This way the control arm angles will be as at ride height, with the frame weight resting on blocks, and the tires resting on the ground, and you can still move the suspension arms as needed to adjust the rod ends. [If the body is on, you may want to put the frame on jackstands, and block the wheels up so that the suspension is at ride height, so that there is enough room for you to get underneath the car to turn the rod ends. Be glad that it will only need to be done once, or maybe again if you change ride height]

You will need a camber gauge to set rear camber accurately--Behrents has one for $40 (get the rim type, not hub type) (www.behrents.com). You can set it by eyeball for now, top of tire leaning "in" by about 1/2" relative to bottom of tire. We will do the final camber adjustment AFTER rear toe-in has been adjusted, since changing toe-in will change camber, while camber changes will not affect toe-in. To adjust camber, twist the UPPER control arm Heim joint in or out of the control arm until it is right. This will be a process of trial and error.

Next we need to string two strings, one on each side of the car, perfectly parallel to the 4" frame tubes, and to each other, at about mid-axle height. The best way to do this is to build trammel bars across the front and rear of the car, so that the strings will maintain their relationship to the car even if it rolls or moves. The quickjack bumpers supplied by FFR are ideal for this purpose. If you are in go-cart stage you will want to mount the quickjacks onto the frame now. Next take the two 7 ft PVC pipes and mark notches about 3" in from each end, so that the length between the notches is EXACTLY the same on each pipe; this will ensure that the strings remain parallel to one another. Next, put the PVC pipes under the quickjacks, so they are wedged into the notch on the bottom of the quickjack, secured by wrapping the quickjack and pipe with an elastic cord, centering from side-to-side, by eyeball for now. The pipes will now run across the front and rear of the roadster, more-or-less centered. Now tie a length of monofilament along each side, from the front trammel bar (pipe) to the rear, using the notches to insure that the strings remain parallel to one another (i.e., the ends of the strings are equally far apart at each end of the car).

Now we need to make sure that the strings, which are parallel to each other, are parallel to the frame. Do this by measuring carefully from the 4" frame tube, using the square or a plumb bob, sliding the pipes in the quickjack notches from side to side as necessary. They should ideally be equidistant from the 4" tubes on each side, or very close, so that we can be sure that the wheel track is centered on the midline of the frame. This is probably the hardest, or at least most tedious part; but accuracy here is important. The 4" frame tubes should be parallel: if slightly off, just use one side for a reference. Once you have the monofilament parallel to the frame, I recommend marking the pipe at the quickjacks, and being sure that the elastic is firmly holding the pipe. This is insurance, so that when you accidentally bump the string or trip over the pipe and knock it out of place, it will be easier to reset it accurately.

Now we are ready to check rear toe-in. You may use either use the wheel rim, if you are sure they are straight (spin'em to check), or wrap a big piece of masking tape around the tire and mark a line around it while rotating the tire, in the plane of rotation, to use as a reference.

Now simply measure from the string to the rim (or mark on tire). We want to have the distance, from the string to the rim, equal on both sides of the car. Measure toe-in as the difference of the front of tire versus rear of same tire or rim: 1/16" total, or 1/32" for each rear wheel..

Unless you are VERY lucky, when you first measure it, toe-in will not even be close. Adjust as needed, by turning in or out on lower control arm Heim rod ends. To make the changes, I find I can just unbolt one of the Heims, then kind of cradle the wheel/control arm in my lap while I twist the rod end in or out. Then you must remount the rod end into the frame with the bolt and shims. If you need to move it a lot, try to turn one in and one out: if you do all the adjustment at one joint it will affect camber somewhat, which is not a problem at this point. Also try to keep an equal distance from the string on each side of the car, so that the rear track remains centered on the midline of the vehicle. You may need to turn all 3 (upper and lowers) in or out to adjust width. Be sure that you don't unscrew the rod ends so far that there is too little thread remaining threaded into the control arm.

After toe-in is correct, it should stay that way unless you alter ride height significantly. Recheck camber after toe-in is set, and adjust as necessary, adjusting ONLY the upper control arm. If you compete, you will want to adjust camber later according to tire temperature measurements, otherwise leave it at 1 to 1.5 degrees negative (FFR calls for -1 degree). Camber will change quite a bit with ride height changes, BTW.

HTH, Keith HR #894

[edwardb]

Those IRS instructions appear to be the former T-Bird based design. I haven't done IRS on the Hot Rod. Only on a Roadster and Coupe. But the newer 2015+ style doesn't require unbolting anything to adjust. It has built-in adjusters that only require loosening a jam nut to adjust. One of the many improvements for the newer design and (from what I understand) a common mod to the former system. I'm assuming the Hot Rod would have the same alignment specs as in the Roadster and Coupe:

Camber: -0.5° to -0.75°
Total Toe: 1/8” Toe in

I find they interact more than what that write-up describes. At ride height, set the camber first, then the toe. Then back and forth tweaking each as needed unto they're both to spec. Pretty easy with the body off. Not so nice with body on.

[JimLev]

Thanks for the info guys. I do have a bubble camber gauge and a digital gauge too.
Fortunately I have the design that Edward is referring to that has jam nuts, don’t have to undo anything. See pics.

As I was looking thru the manual while drinking coffee this morning I see that there are rear alignment specs for the IRS on the next page after installing the IRS, not sure why the front and rear wouldn’t be on the same page?
The rear is the same as you posted above Edward.

The front is:
Total Toe 1/16”
Camber -0.5º to -0.75º
Camber 6-7º

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[JimLev]

Got the body sprayed with 2 coats of clear this morning. Only one small run that will need fixing.
I’ll get a few friends over tomorrow afternoon to help me put the body back on the chassis.

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[RoadRacer]

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So jealous. I always wanted to get mine on the road ASAP (and hence using the limited money available rather than saving up for better options) - but the IRS is dreamy.

[Mastertech5]

Got the body sprayed with 2 coats of clear this morning. Only one small run that will need fixing.
I’ll get a few friends over tomorrow afternoon to help me put the body back on the chassis.

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I wish we lived closer, I would be there in a flash to help. The body looks soooo good! You just had to move.

[JimLev]

After too many years putting up with the long cold MA winters (2014 & 2015 were the worse), our daughter transferring to ABQ, got married, and had a baby it was time to try out the southwest. Yes it would be good to live close to other FFR guys, not many here in NM.
Our oldest son lives in CO so that’s just a 6-7 hr drive.

The body is on the chassis with the help of 6 guys from the local car club here that I’m a member of.
The AC and defroster hoses under the dash from the Vintage Air system that came with my kit that run to the 4 vents are a PITA to install, not a lot of room. I had to lower the ECU about an inch to get 2.5” hose more space to get it to the dash vent and to allow the body to drop all the way down.
Looking at some pics of what comes with the Gen 2 kit the heater/AC box is completely different than what they were shipping 4 years ago.
Now to finish putting it back together, minus the fenders and running boards, then take it to at local tire shop for a 4 wheel alignment. Then I’ll install the fenders, etc.

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[Jeff33Ford]

That is really looking great. Keep the lessons coming.

[JimLev]

Thanks Jeff.
I’ve done a lot since my last update.
It’s almost ready to take in for an alignment, just need to install the front and rear glass.
I’ll bolt on the fenders and running boards after alignment.

Anybody got any tips on installing the glass without making a mess with the 3M windshield goop?

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[RoadRacer]

I had a mobile installer come over.. he put a thick bead of it in and then placed it in using those suckers. Made it look easy.. but I still wouldn’t do it myself. ;)

[JimLev]

Thanks James. I’ve got those section cups to hold the glass so I think I’ll give it a try.

Latest pic.
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[Mastertech5]

Love the plate bracket. How about 2FAS4U FOR the plate

[JimLev]

Love the plate bracket. How about 2FAS4U FOR the plate

Nice, I’ll add that to my list for a vanity plate.

[progmgr1]

There was a roadster builder in my area who had CA plates "2FAST4U". Last I heard he had moved to the SF Bay area, but I haven't seen him on the forum for a few years.

Keith HR #894

[e36m3]

Thanks Jeff.
I’ve done a lot since my last update.
It’s almost ready to take in for an alignment, just need to install the front and rear glass.
I’ll bolt on the fenders and running boards after alignment.

Anybody got any tips on installing the glass without making a mess with the 3M windshield goop?

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Looking great Jim, nice to see another car coming to completion. Gives us all hope.

Thanks,
Andy

[JimLev]

Got the front and rear glass installed, then mounted the wiper motor and blade.
Also mounted the rear license plate frame.
I’ve started the process of getting it insured, hope to have that done by the end of the week.

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[Mastertech5]

Looking good. Is the glass tinted, it looks like it is. I hope so. Did you use urethane to glue the glass in? It looks like you drilled a hole in the glass for the wiper. What kind of bit did you use? What kind of wiper system is it?

[33fromSD]

Got the front and rear glass installed, then mounted the wiper motor and blade.
Also mounted the rear license plate frame.
I’ve started the process of getting it insured, hope to have that done by the end of the week.

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Looks great Jim. Such a great feeling when the finish line nears. Since I completed my 33 I've been working on a 55 Ford F100 which is also near the finish line so it's exciting to see all the visions / work come to reality.

Great Job.

Jim

[JimLev]

The side and rear windows are tinted, not the front.
I used 3M single step primer and 3M urethane Windo-Weld to install the glass. I taped off everything around the openings and still got the black windo-weld on the body. It does clean off real easy with lacquer thinner on a rag.
To drill the hole thru the glass I used this diamond hole saw and water for lubrication. Go slow and clean the bit often. The plastic between the layers of safety glass will clog the bit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VR9H3I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Pretty sure I got the wiper from Speedway, it’s not that great. I only need it to get it registered. It doesn’t rain much here. I had to shorten the blade so it doesn’t hit the body, the stroke is only about 90º.
Here is the one I bought, however I remember only paying about $35 for it. Maybe I got it from Amazon??
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/United-Pacific-A6236-Electric-Wiper-Motor-Set-wiper-Arm-Blade,419260.html
The box says model TY-302, made in Taiwan.

Jim, yes it feels real good to be almost done. Post a few pics of your F100, it has such a nice body style.

[JimLev]

Skip that wiper if you live in a place where rain is always a possibility. I got it wired up and running today.
It does a lousy job on a wet windshield. It’s underpowered and moves slowly on a dry windshield, wet is a little better.

And I got it insured today.

[Mastertech5]

Congrats on the insurance. Good to know about the wiper, thanks. I'm not sure if a wiper is required here for inspection. some say no for a replica of it doesn't come equipped, so?

[JimLev]

I was going to get the wheels aligned today however it’s raining and I don’t have the door weather strip seals installed so I’ll wait for better weather in a few days. I drove around the hood a bit yesterday so I could checkout/adjust the brake bias.
I also installed the engine side covers. There’s a lot of heat that comes out of the side vents, glad I installed them.

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[JimLev]

It’s finally done, if you can ever call it done. Aligned and registered yesterday.
I still need to do little things like add the weather stripping to the body for the doors, connect the LED’s for the rear number plate light, etc.
The mufflers are a bit LOUD even with the exhausted wrapped from the header collectors all the way to the back.

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Now to collect all the parts I didn’t use and put them in the For Sale section.

[Jeff33Ford]

That looks fantastic!! Pictures like yours keeps me motivated. Thanks for sharing.

[edwardb]

Love it. Great job. I'm partial to the full fender/hood/top look. Hence the similar configuration of my truck build. :) Tell me about the pieces you have on the running boards where you step. Looking for some ideas. Thanks.

[JimLev]

Jim (33fromSD) gave me the info where to get them.
https://www.raneystruckparts.com/custom-step-plate-with-optional-insert-by-iowa-customs/
Lots to pick from.

I built a boxed steel support that attaches to the bottom of the chassis and extends almost to the outer edge of the running boards for support so if someone was to step on the RB’s they wouldn’t break.

[edwardb]

Jim (33fromSD) gave me the info where to get them.
https://www.raneystruckparts.com/custom-step-plate-with-optional-insert-by-iowa-customs/
Lots to pick from.

I built a boxed steel support that attaches to the bottom of the chassis and extends almost to the outer edge of the running boards for support so if someone was to step on the RB’s they wouldn’t break.

Thanks. Those look interesting. The truck running board option includes very robust steel platforms (think heavy) under the running boards that bolt to the chassis. More than strong enough to stand on. Wasn't aware the hot rod didn't have something similar.

[33fromSD]

Thanks. Those look interesting. The truck running board option includes very robust steel platforms (think heavy) under the running boards that bolt to the chassis. More than strong enough to stand on. Wasn't aware the hot rod didn't have something similar.

The stepping plates work really well and Raneys Truck parts have a lot of options to choose from. Mine are just polished aluminum, but they have several colors to choose from. Spendy, but to avoid folks scratching up the paint when stepping on the running boards to me it's worth it.

Jim

[33fromSD]

It’s finally done, if you can ever call it done. Aligned and registered yesterday.
I still need to do little things like add the weather stripping to the body for the doors, connect the LED’s for the rear number plate light, etc.
The mufflers are a bit LOUD even with the exhausted wrapped from the header collectors all the way to the back.

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Now to collect all the parts I didn’t use and put them in the For Sale section.

Looks awesome Jim!! Great Job. Another one on the road.

[peterh226]

Thanks. Those look interesting. The truck running board option includes very robust steel platforms (think heavy) under the running boards that bolt to the chassis. More than strong enough to stand on. Wasn't aware the hot rod didn't have something similar.
I got the supports from FFR and I’m using them on the hot rod. I did have to make some changes to the mounting to raise them up a bit, but they really make the running board secure.

[33fromSD]

I made my own supports bolted to the frame. Solid as a rock, you can jump up and down on the running board and the car rocks up and down but the runnings boards do not.

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Jim

[JimLev]

I had the car weighed today at an official weigh station (tractor trailer scale), not sure how accurate they are on something so small.
It was 2700 lbs. front axle was 1280 and rear axle was 1420. I wasn’t in the car. The fuel tank was on 1/4 full.
Doesn’t make sense that the front is less than the rear.

[RoadRacer]

I could see this depending on your motor. 47% front isn’t far off. Mine is 50/50 when I did corner weights but has a iron head SBC. But mine only weighed 2280 on the scales.

[JimLev]

All aluminum LS3 and aluminum 4L65e tranny. Shipping weight on the engine was 400 Lbs and the tranny was 110.
The only heavy thing in the back is the IRS LSD that is 100 lbs.
Most everything I added was in the front half of the car.

[RoadRacer]

Right, so that kinda makes sense, right? My motor is ~550, my tko is 120. My car (at 50/50) has more weight up front. So jealous of the all-aluminum LS3.

I always thought the wheelbase on these was crazy. so much longer than you think - it tricks the mind with the wheels so far forward.

[JimLev]

James, if yours was only 2280 then the truck stop scale I used must not be accurate at the low end of it’s range.
I should fine someplace that has the scales you put under each wheel.

[JimLev]

I found a shop that has corner balance scales so I’m going to have them weigh it. Unfortunately they can’t get me in until Jan 26th.

[narly1]

Here's a discussion on truck scale accuracy:

https://www.centralcarolinascale.com/blog/2022/10/11/how-accurate-are-truck-scales/

Given what they have to say I'm predicting that the weights you already got are going to fairly accurate, out by +/- a few lbs (at most).

Earl

[JimLev]

Thanks for the info Earl. I just fine it hard to believe the front weighs less than the rear.
I’ll post what each corners weights after I get it done,

[RoadRacer]

Here are my corner weights (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24163-Roadracer-s-997-build&p=505137&viewfull=1#post505137) - of course, I have minimal bodywork compared to you.

Anyway, I'd recommend doing the corner weights both raw (no driver) but also with you inside so you can adjust the suspension (https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/understanding-corner-weights/) to be more equal. I only had to tweak two spring perches up about 3/8" or so IIRC.

[JimLev]

Thanks for the corner weight info, good stuff James.
Today I’ve been figuring out how to program the 4L65e shifting points. Everything is configurable, up shifts, down shifts, shift pressures, etc.

Last week I registered my hotrod, today in the mail I received the title. It was registered as a 1933.
They used the chassis number for the VIN.

[Mastertech5]

I don't know if you have come up with a shield for your air filter yet but I thought I'd let you know what may work. I mocked this up with some card stock thinking of using some 6" black stove pipe cut in half. If you cut it to leave 4 tabs then bent them down around the filter clamp end, as in the picture, you can hold it on with the clamp. I'm going to try it this weekend. $10 for a 12" section of pipe.
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[JimLev]

Thanks Bruce, I like it. I have some sheet metal and a small combo brake/shear/roller to make one.
I was trying to come up with an easy way to mount it. Yours looks the easiest and simple way to do it to mount it.

[Mastertech5]

I wish I had that equipment but I never really needed it before on any kind of regular basis so I couldn't justify the expense. I have to come up with creative solutions. I stare at stuff and think of how can I do this.

[JimLev]

Got my vanity plate today……..

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[Just 1 More]

Got my vanity plate today……..

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You're going to have to explain it to me, THX138 ?

[Mastertech5]

I know! No room for the other 1? I loved that movie! Good choice!!!! We can only have six here too.

[RoadRacer]

You're going to have to explain it to me, THX138 ?

Milners license plate in American graffiti.. named for an earlier movie directed by George Lucas.

Love it!

[JimLev]

Yup, Milners plate in American Graffiti.

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[RoadRacer]

“Milner” was on my short list of available plates

[Mastertech5]

I didn't realize that was his plate. I was thinking of the science fiction movie THX1138, as mentioned above. I guess I haven't seen American Graffiti enough, not recently anyway.

[Mastertech5]

On another note. Did you put your rad Replica Parts fan shroud with the slanted end up? That's what makes sense to me because the grill lays back. Mike said it was self explanatory. I'm assuming it also goes with the flat panel the fan mounts to out, not in like the FFR fan mounts are in the manual. Thanks.

[JimLev]

I bought my shroud from Mike Everson (Replica Parts?). I don’t recall a slanted end.
One note that will save you a lot of hood cutting time, don’t lay the grill all the way back. If you do you’ll need to cut the sides of the hood so it will close to the tops of the side engine covers.
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I don’t think I’ve ever seen THX1138, will have to watch it.

[Just 1 More]

I bought my shroud from Mike Evens also, I put the slanted end at the bottom. 179084

[JimLev]

I couldn’t see the bottom of mine now that it’s mounted in the car so it must be on the bottom, it’s not on the top.

[Jeff33Ford]

On another note. Did you put your rad Replica Parts fan shroud with the slanted end up? That's what makes sense to me because the grill lays back. Mike said it was self explanatory. I'm assuming it also goes with the flat panel the fan mounts to out, not in like the FFR fan mounts are in the manual. Thanks.

I put it at the bottom as well. I assumed it was that way for clearance. The bottom is close to everything.

[Mastertech5]

Ok, thanks. Just trying to do something. Taking my intake tubes to have the MAF bung and PCV fresh air fitting welded on soon. No grill till at least April so all I can do is mount the fan and shroud on the rad.

[33fromSD]

The side and rear windows are tinted, not the front.
I used 3M single step primer and 3M urethane Windo-Weld to install the glass. I taped off everything around the openings and still got the black windo-weld on the body. It does clean off real easy with lacquer thinner on a rag.
To drill the hole thru the glass I used this diamond hole saw and water for lubrication. Go slow and clean the bit often. The plastic between the layers of safety glass will clog the bit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VR9H3I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Pretty sure I got the wiper from Speedway, it’s not that great. I only need it to get it registered. It doesn’t rain much here. I had to shorten the blade so it doesn’t hit the body, the stroke is only about 90º.
Here is the one I bought, however I remember only paying about $35 for it. Maybe I got it from Amazon??
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/United-Pacific-A6236-Electric-Wiper-Motor-Set-wiper-Arm-Blade,419260.html
The box says model TY-302, made in Taiwan.

Jim, yes it feels real good to be almost done. Post a few pics of your F100, it has such a nice body style.

Jim, here are the latest pics on the 55 F100 Build as requested. Being on the lift I haven't done any full body pics to this point. These are the latest with the doors mounted and gapped. Prepping the last body panel for paint (the hood). Huge part to work with. Also include some early rear shots of the box, bed wood & tuneau cover.

Jim

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[JimLev]

Wow, looks great. Better than new!
Thanks for the pics.

[JimLev]

I finally decided that I better get the AC charged up as it’s starting to get warm here.
As the R134a was getting sucked in (engine running) I started to see cooling leaking from the radiator cap.
Over the last few months I’ve sometimes got a whiff of antifreeze but never could find the exact source.
The cap is rated for 16PSI and should have gone into the overflow. I have noticed the overflow tank has always needs some added to it.
Checking the coolant system pressure with the engine running at temp it was only 7PSI. I bought a new cap today, will check it out tomorrow.

So back to the AC, the temp coming out of the vents was 29ºF. I suspect my cheapo digital BBQ gauge is a few degrees off.

[Mastertech5]

Make sure the cap is for a closed system, meaning it has a big gasket directly under the cap. I had to laugh at the BBQ grill thermometer.

[JimLev]

Yes, the new cap has 2 gaskets in it and a pressure relief lever.

[Mastertech5]

:cool:

[JimLev]

I love laying on my back under the car, not.
I started the install of the Borla mufflers today. I cut off the ball and socket connections from the FFR mufflers which were a nice fit into the Borla mufflers.
I had to cut some off the ends off the Borla’s so I could keep the OAL at 19.25” like the old FFR mufflers so they would match up with the pipe from the engine and the pipe to the rear. I’ll tack weld the ball and sockets tomorrow, then pull them out and finish welding them.
I need to get more DEI insulation to cover the mufflers.

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[Just 1 More]

I love laying on my back under the car, not.
I started the install of the Borla mufflers today. I cut off the ball and socket connections from the FFR mufflers which were a nice fit into the Borla mufflers.
I had to cut some off the ends off the Borla’s so I could keep the OAL at 19.25” like the old FFR mufflers so they would match up with the pipe from the engine and the pipe to the rear. I’ll tack weld the ball and sockets tomorrow, then pull them out and finish welding them.
I need to get more DEI insulation to cover the mufflers.

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Looks good, I need to do the same with mine

[JimLev]

Got the ball and sockets welded to the Borla mufflers. UPS brought the insulation I ordered from Summit this afternoon, the mufflers are insulated.
I should be able to get them installed tomorrow and get the car off jack stands. Time to burn a little rubber, maybe.

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[Just 1 More]

Looks great

[JimLev]

Got the Borla’s installed today.
They are a little quieter than the FFR mufflers at idle, they have a bit lower rumble sound.
When I boot it it’s still loud but driving at 60 MPH the engine is in only at 1900 RPM and it’s noticeable quieter.
I still need to adjust the windows so they will seal to the top of the opening, that should help some.

[JimLev]

Shout out to factory Five…thanks for using my 33 in your latest email blast.

I haven’t been here in a while, my hotrod is doing fine, it’s a blast to drive.
Always gets lots of thumbs up where ever I take it.

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