JimLev's Build

[HVACMAN]

Yes, they sent me the correct one, pretty sure I called Kokar directly and not Jeg's where I bought the shifter from.
The p/n is 68182P, description is Zinc Cable Operated Lower Mounting Bracket.

Thanks Jim. That's awesome. I will call them tomorrow.

[HVACMAN]

Yes, they sent me the correct one, pretty sure I called Kokar directly and not Jeg's where I bought the shifter from.
The p/n is 68182P, description is Zinc Cable Operated Lower Mounting Bracket.

Thanks again for the information Jim. I talked to Travis at Lokar this morning and the correct bracket is on the way. He said the first production run of these shifters contained the wrong bracket. I think our's were some of the first manufactured.

[JimLev]

Excellent Andy. I almost threw out the paperwork that came with the bracket, glad I saved it.

[HVACMAN]

This came in by UPS yesterday. 98705 Thanks again Jim.

[JimLev]

No problem, glad I could help out.
IIRC the slot to fit the tranny pan bolts thru was a little on the tight side. Pretty sure I took a file or angle grinder to open it up a tad.

[HVACMAN]

Jim, Did you have to modify the trans. tunnel at all? Mine seems to fit well on the drive side, with the exception of the shift arm hitting. On the passenger side it seems about 1 - 1 1/2 inches too wide. Half of the emergency brake cut out is actually inside the tunnel. I marked the firewall on the passenger side at the outside of the flange. If so how did you do it. I think I'm about to get an education in fiber glass work. 100266100267

[HVACMAN]

Jim, Did you have to modify the trans. tunnel at all? Mine seems to fit well on the drive side, with the exception of the shift arm hitting. On the passenger side it seems about 1 - 1 1/2 inches too wide. Half of the emergency brake cut out is actually inside the tunnel. I marked the firewall on the passenger side at the outside of the flange. If so how did you do it. I think I'm about to get an education in fiber glass work. 100266100267

Never mind. Well I feel stupid. There was a cleco in the floor, inside the tunnel that I couldn't see.

[AJT '33]

I bought sliders for the seats, so to determine where the shifter should go so I could reach it I needed to mount the seats.
Only got the pass side done. I raised the seat up 3.5", bolted directly to the floor was way too low for me.
The seat can be moved 5" now.
I wanted to use unistrut, not available at HD or Tractor Supply, I settled on slotted angle iron. A little more work but it came out fine.

87866



Jim, where did you get the sliders from? They are different than those from FFR and look like a much better construction.

[JimLev]

I didn't know FFR sold sliders.
Here are the ones I bought. I had to shorten the wire rod that connects the left and right slider adjuster.
https://www.4wd.com/p/mastercraft-safety-seat-bracket-620030/_/R-GNNN-620030

[JimLev]

Finally got around to updating this. Too much company that takes away from "garage time".

My new drivers door came a few days ago, haven't had time to put it on yet.
I did build a console for the stereo/GPS and switches only to find out my 4" shifter was really too short.
Also bought seat heaters, haven't had time to install them yet.
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I ordered the 6" rod from Lokar.
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I've got the body on with the trunk lid and pass door attached, not shown.
Still need to take the body off to cut more holes.
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I also bought a set of louvers for the engine side covers, not installed yet.
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[OnlyAndy]

I like what you are doing young man. Have a couple questions..... I have the same "newer" version gas tank as you and I notice you have the "fill" right on the tank. Is that what the book says? I am not that far along but Assumed,,,, the fill would be up at the normal cut out in fiberglass body. I kinda like where you have it..... ( but can you fill the tank? )Then, where did those louvers come from? I THINK I want louvers on my side covers and have looked all over the place but not found what I am looking for yet. Yours look pretty cool. Keep up the good work.

[JimLev]

Old man would be closer.
That is the newer style fuel tank with the fill spout welded right on the top side of the tank. You need to open the trunk to fill the tank. I'll post a better pic of it later today after I find the info on the louvers.
I was also looking for months trying to find some decent louvers that didn't look like they were made for something you'd use on your house. I found that one of the builders had these on his 33 hotrod. I must have asked him where he got them, can't remember. Anyways I do remembering getting them from some shop in Michigan. I'm sure I'll find the info before the end of the day.

[JimLev]

Found it, Street Dreams By Ross. I bought the 24" vents.
http://www.streetdreamsbyross.com/vents.php

Here are a few more pics.
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Lokar door handle. I should have bought the shorter handle, but this still works fine. You can open the door lock with one finger.
The handle ID has a spline which I drilled out with a 1/2" bit, then ground a flat on the rod that comes with the FF latch for the allan screw to prevent any slipping.
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[OnlyAndy]

1st,,,, Thank You very much. I have kit #1095 and same tank as you. Not as far along as you but reading directions there is NO mention of this new tank or how the fill installs. I was just guessing it mounted the same as instruction. Now I know. And I have near the same door handle as you, not installed yet. Then the Louvers,,, thx for the getting me the source, I like them ( but don't want to appear a copycat ). Yes, I found lots that were steel and looked like home depot,,,,, but have been reading they are not too compatible with fiberglass and will show a seam down the road. Its all good, thx again

[JimLev]

The manual only shows the older fuel tank, not the newer style tank we have. The old tank had issues with getting it full because the fill connection to the tank was in the middle of the tank.
Louvers...copy them if you want, it's not a problem.

[JimLev]

Haven't done much, just got back from vacation a few days ago. Gave the grandkids a ride around the hood.
We put the top on so I could take some measurements from the top of my head to the roof.
With my seats already raised 3.5" off the floor I have 5" of space above my head, I'm 5' 8".
I'm going to raise the seats another 3" to help with visibility out the front.
Someone a while ago mentioned trimming the flange the windshield mounts too, I'll do that too.

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[NAZ]

I trimmed the bottom flange on mine 1/2" as I can't raise my seat (NHRA rule compliance issue) and needed every little bit of visibility I could get. I'd do it again as it does help.

[JimLev]

Thanks for 1/2" measurement, I will probably trim the top too.

Got time to work on installing the new door, ugh, it's not much better than the old door.
I decided to work on raising the seats up to 6" off the floor. Much better.
Still need to do the pass seat.

The way I had it before, being 3.5" off the floor.
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[OnlyAndy]

Wow,,, 6"..... I am 5'8" also and have been reading 1.5" high in front and floor level at rear of seat. On wiring now and likely for a while, then floor can go in. Then I can test my seat height and visability factor. Oh, and I Did get louvers from StreetDreams by Ross... He remembered you. Thx again.

[JimLev]

I'm 5'8" too. With my seat 3.5" above the floor I had 6" from the top of my head to the roof. I put the top on and really couldn't see the front right wheel.
I should now have 2" above my head, just enough for a helmut.
StreetDreams had the best looking louvers I could find. I'm thinking of powder coating them silver, that won't be for a while.

[JimLev]

Didn't work on the ^$%* drivers door at all today, got the pass seat raised up like the drivers seat I did yesterday.
Shortened the seat slide bar about an inch so it doesn't stick out so far.
I've got plenty of room under the seat for storage, will build a tray on slides in the future.

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[AJT '33]

Didn't work on the ^$%* drivers door at all today, got the pass seat raised up like the drivers seat I did yesterday.
Shortened the seat slide bar about an inch so it doesn't stick out so far.
I've got plenty of room under the seat for storage, will build a tray on slides in the future.

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That would make a great compact subwoofer location! Like this one: https://www.crutchfield.ca/p_20611HS8/Kicker-11HS8.html

[JimLev]

If I can get the Focal 6.5" speakers to fit in the doors that sub would be nice under the seat. My stereo does have a sub output. I'm still months away from mounting speakers. Gotta work on the drivers door today.

[AJT '33]

If I can get the Focal 6.5" speakers to fit in the doors that sub would be nice under the seat. My stereo does have a sub output. I'm still months away from mounting speakers. Gotta work on the drivers door today.

I have the same 6.5" Focals (PS165FX set) and will be mounting them using a 3D printed housing so I can have it sit a bit proud however the passenger speaker would be facing toward the driver and the drivers side would be facing the passenger. I am putting the tweeter in the door close where the door handle would have been. When I get it in I will take a pic.

[JimLev]

It's been a while since I updated my build. Don't really have much to show as I've been avoiding doing fiberglass work.
I put the insulation and sound deadening on the tranny tunnel a few days ago.
Then I decided to put the headlights together so I could get rid of more boxes. I mounted them just so I could connect them and make sure all of the electrical system works before I pull the body off.
I then realized that if I use connectors for the lights I'd have to cut them off to remove them.
Next I took all of the gauges off the cardboard box and mounted them on a piece of plywood in the order they will be mounted in the dash. I could then wire them, plug them in and do a full test.
I had to order one gauge light today otherwise the gauges would be done.
I was able to remove about 8 wires that weren't needed, the IDIDIT column had those functions built in.
I got the rear license plate lights and the reverse light connected.

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[Kamp]

This is what I did for electric power steering and very pleased.

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[JimLev]

Nice bracket. Who made the electric steering motor?

[Kamp]

Hi Jim, this is a steering motor from a 02-07 Saturn Vue. They were in the $100 range when I bought mine. The control box interface is from "bruno steering" on ebay. I got the auto compensation one which I recommend, I think it was $40 or so. I made the bracket up from the steel stash! If you are interested in the conversion there is a thread on the FFR website which has info on the couplers needed or message me.

[JimLev]

Kamp, thanks for the info, it should help others.
I bought the electric steering from FFR when I ordered my car, when they had the 1/2 price sale.

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[H R Lucky]

Jim, I like your idea for the seat mounting and slider, hope you don't mind but I'm stealing your method.

thanks,
Nevin

[JimLev]

No problem Nevin, the forum is here so we can all help each other.
I'll be bugging others soon about resin and fiberglassing.

[JimLev]

Finally got back into the garage after weeks of vacation travel.
After mulling over how I was going to mount the gauges I bought some engine turned aluminum from Speedway.
The smaller Autometer gauges require a 2 1/16" hole, not a common size at any of the local stores. Had to order it on line.
Cutting the holes was a snap but I do have a question about trimming the panel. I don't have a band saw.
I could do it with a hand held Skil saw and then smooth the edges with a file.
The top will slope down like the FFR template with the four corners rounded.
Any one have a better method?

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I'm not happy with the marine vinyl I used to cover my console. The 3M adhesive isn't holding well.
I'm going to pull off the vinyl, use sheet metal over the plywood, then cover it with faux carbon fiber.

[HVACMAN]

What gauge? Body saw?? Saber saw??

[HVACMAN]

Check this out Jim. It is what I will put on my dash. https://www.amazon.com/VViViD-Epoxy-Gloss-Carbon-Automotive/dp/B01B3C5O9K/ref=asc_df_B01B3C5O9K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312126224579&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=512918743482429731&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027869&hvtargid=pla-570469491104&psc=1

[JimLev]

I do have a saber (skil) saw.
This is what I bought to cover the console. It came today. I was thinking about using in on the dash too.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTC2UFP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did look at the one you ordered. I was thinking the silver would give me a little contrast from the black interior.

[NAZ]

Jim, a Skill saw designed for wood runs too fast for aluminum and will usually gum up the blade. I have a Milwaukee 8" circular saw designed for cutting steel and aluminum but these are way too pricey unless you use them a lot. A less expensive option is an orbital jig saw such as this one: https://www.rockler.com/dewalt-dw331k-heavy-duty-variable-speed-top-handle-jig-saw-kit?sid=V9146?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhIPqk_Xk4wIVBavsCh2skgnxEAQYAyAB EgKylPD_BwE

Set the orbital feed to max, use a course tooth blade and lower speed. For straight cuts I use a guide.

[JimLev]

NAZ, thanks for the blade and speed info.
My Skil saw is variable speed and looks very similar to that DeWalt, just not as fancy.
It was given to me....friend got it for a present and didn't want it.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/SKIL-6-Amp-Keyless-T-or-U-Shank-Variable-Speed-Corded-Jigsaw/1000625047
I was using a fine tooth blade when I cut the slot for the Vintage Air insert. I didn't have to worry too much about making the cut perfect as the flange hides the cut.

[NAZ]

My bad, when I hear Skill Saw I think circular saw. Your Skill jig saw should work great.

[JimLev]

No Problem NAZ.
Just finished cutting it, looks good. Still need holes for the ignition, headlight switches, LED directional indicators, and hi-beams.
Now to cut a big hole in the dash to mount the gauges in.

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I'm wiring in an adjustable PWM fan speed controller to have the fan run at ~50% all the time instead of on/off.
Need to blow that heat out all the time.
The engine fan will still function via the ECU and override the PWM to run the fan at 100% speed if needed.

[sethmark]

Very well done Jim. It looks fantastic.

[JimLev]

Spent a few hours in the garage to work on the gauges. I didn't do the greatest job cutting out the dash but those parts won't show.
Now I need to put all the gauge wires back on.
I mounted some relays and the speed controller for the radiator fan behind the dash, need to wire them up too.

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[JimLev]

Got the marine vinyl pulled off the console plywood, then covered it with 26 gauge sheet metal so I'd have a smooth surface for the (faux) carbon fiber....looks more like contact paper, but looks better than the marine vinyl.
I also had a little help from my granddaughter, she was practicing her driving to the grocery store, so she tells me.

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Had to make it in 2 sections and then connect them.
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[sethmark]

Nice work!

[FF33rod]

Looks great!! whatcha got on all those switches?

[JimLev]

Looks great!! whatcha got on all those switches?

The 4L65e has functions that you can customize with the software that came with it, shift points, shift pressure, etc. A/B shift programs, cancel overdrive, dyno mode, that's 3 of the switches.
Back up lights
Hi beams
Wiper on/off
Washer pump
Dim radio/GPS display
Electric steering on/off
interior lights
2 spare switches

heated seats
power windows.
USB outlet

[sethmark]

Are you an electrical engineer? :cool:

[JimLev]

I was until I switched into sales/management back in '97.

[FF33rod]

I was until I switched into sales/management back in '97.

Sales & Marketing - the dark side....

[JimLev]

Sales & Marketing - the dark side....

LOL, but I still went out in the field to help out with electrical/mechanical equipment issues or to design fixes for equipment the factory built that didn't quite work as designed.

[JimLev]

I was looking for info on my LS3, mainly the oil temp and level sensor that is on the side of the oil pan.
I bought an Autometer oil temp gauge that came with its own sensor but I'd have to drill and tap the pan.
With the pan full of oil I wanted to use the sensor that is in the pan.
So in my search I found this document that has a lot of good info on a variety of GM 2011 and newer V8's, L96, LS3, LSA, and LS9.
http://www.whitestonelakes.com/documents/Section%204%20-%20PCM/4.02%202016%20Generation%204%20V8%20Engine%20Servi ce%20Manual.pdf

[JimLev]

A while ago I picked up an LS tranny oil cooler off a GMC at the local junkyard for cheap.
I cleaned it up and now need to find someplace to mount it. Not enough room behind the radiator fan.
Might need to mount it horizontal and install a fan on it.

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[wrp]

I mounted mine in front of the radiator on my GTO

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[JimLev]

WRP, only if I had that much room.
After messing around with where to put the tranny cooler for way too long yesterday I mounted it to the lower frame rail.
It's position for cooling is not optimum but it will do more that if it wasn't used.
Today I made up the AN6 lines and connected it.

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[HVACMAN]

Was your oil temperature running too high?

[NAZ]

Looks like you even have room for a fan on that cooler. I mounted mine next to the starter (only place I could find) and no room for a fan or even a scoop. I ended up fabricating a spoiler to create a negative pressure on one side of the cooler, therefore, inducing at least some flow across the plates. Seems to work. With a 5000 RPM stall speed the converter generates a lot of heat.

I added a photo of my trans fluid heat exchanger and the spoiler. Doesn't take much to create negative pressure across the heat exchanger. A scoop would be even better.

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[JimLev]

Was your oil temperature running too high?

Don't really know yet, haven't driven it more than 4 miles. With the summer temps in the high 90º I'm just being proactive.
I do have a 3200 RPM stall speed converter which will generate a little more heat than if I used the original converter.

NAZ, yes a scoop over the top of the cooler should work out just fine. Thanks for the suggestion. It should be able to catch air from the radiator fan.
Thanks for adding that pic. I was hoping to mount mine on the pass side but with the Vintage Air those lines and AC parts took up all of that space.

[JimLev]

Hope this intake works OK with two 4" 90° elbows. This was the easiest way to get the air filter to be inside the engine side covers.
I'll take it for a spin tomorrow morning to test it out.

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A while after I posted the above pics of the intake I changed it.
Now it looks like this.
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[sethmark]

Ironicallly one of the most challenging parts of the go kart was the hoses and intake. I am running a short afe 4” filter with the recommended 3“ of straight on either side of the MAF. Yours like fine to me.

[1932]

The problem is hot air intake!

[JimLev]

The problem is hot air intake!

Correct, but there is no other place to put it.

[JimLev]

Ironicallly one of the most challenging parts of the go kart was the hoses and intake. I am running a short afe 4” filter with the recommended 3“ of straight on either side of the MAF. Yours like fine to me.

^___Yes it is. Your using the 32 grill so you have a little bit more room.

With my revised intake plumbing job the engine will start and then die in 2-3 seconds. I tried starting it 5-6 times, same results.
Next I put the intake back to the way I initially had it, it starts up and runs fine.
Digging thru the GM engine info it says the MAF sensor has to be mounted horizontally and between the 9 to 3 o'clock position. MAF has to be 10" from the throttle body.
So back to the drawing board to see how I can get the filter to be inside the side covers. I might have to buy a shorter filter.

[sethmark]

Jim, I don’t know if this helps, but this is how I solve the problem.

[JimLev]

Thanks Seth, that might work. Is that a Spectre 45º or 60º elbow?

[sethmark]

Yessir. For a kit I knew I was going to cut up, the price was right. The silicone connections are too flimsy for my taste, hence the reinforcement off the frame.

[JimLev]

Seth, from your pic I got an idea how to do it with the parts I had already purchased.
Don't know why I didn't think of doing it this way before, guess I was just hung up on having the filter mounted horizontally.

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[sethmark]

That looks like a winner to me. Tucks inside the side panels and gets away from radiator heat.

[JimLev]

I'll build a shield on one side to help keep some of the heat away from the filter.
I'm now working on a duct with a fan for the tranny oil cooler.

[AJT '33]

This is how I ended up with mine. As shown I can get my side panels on without interference.
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I have had my tuning guy in and he only needed to make a minor adjustment to dial it in and we will make another one once we put it on the dyno in a few months.

[JimLev]

I was hoping to do something like that but it wasn't possible with the top water pump hose up so high.
Looks like your almost done and will be driving it soon.

[Plimpton]

Jim,
I’ve been lurking on your build thread for months - it’s an inspiration. I’m to the point where I’m starting the electrical. This seems like a simple question but, I’m trying to decide how to get wires from the dash area to the rear of the car. The gen 2 manual doesn’t help and I’m struggling to find pics on the threads. I’d prefer not to run exposed along the bottom of the cockpit but... So, did you route thru the drive shaft tunnel (that seems risky) or did you dip under the car at the rear of the trans cover.?

[sethmark]

I’m not Jim, but I ran along the trans securing every 12”. I pulled the cables away from the yoke and riveted clamps to the inside of the tunnel.

[JimLev]

Plimpton, I routed the rear wires down both sides of the tranny underneath the tunnel cover. The sides of my tranny had a few unused holes that I tapped to hold the wires.
I kept all of them on the top side of the frame rails. I also added an additional steel support in one location where there was a span of more than 12".

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[FF33rod]

and same with me, both sides - power down the passenger side and rear harness coupled with rear camera and other added wires (Speaker, door switch, backup lights, power window) goes down the driver side. Just support it well....

[HVACMAN]

I took a different route. I went on top of the tunnel. 117446117447 I didn't feel comfortable running them underneath the car.

[JimLev]

I should update my build as I have been working on it, just been busy with too many other things lately.

I do have a question about the NCG J703 tool that comes with our kit.
It has threaded bits for various sizes nutserts but none for 6x32.
Does anyone have info where I could get the part to use for 6x32 nutserts?

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[TxMike64]

6-32 is an uncommon size and rather small. 8-32 is a much better size all around and much more common. The NCG looks like a Chinese knock-off of the Astro Pneumatic tool. I would imagine the Astro mandrels would work in the NCG.

[JimLev]

Thanks, I'll check out Astro.
NCG is a Taiwan company.
I'm looking for this size as I have a ton of 6x32 nutserts that I use on other projects.
I have a really old tool (BF Goodrich C6000) for them but would like to get a 6x32 bit for the NCG.
This is my old tool.
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Follow up....
I found a 6x32 mandrel for an Astro, it looks like it might fit. Only $9 so I ordered it.

[Plimpton]

[QUOTE=JimLev;388167]Plimpton, I routed the rear wires down both sides of the tranny underneath the tunnel cover. The sides of my tranny had a few unused holes that I tapped to hold the wires.
I kept all of them on the top side of the frame rails. I also added an additional steel support in one location where there was a span of more than 12".

117444

Jim, Seth and others who have attempted to answer my question- thanks but, what my specific concern is about is where to route the wiring after it leaves the fiberglass transmission cover. Did you route the cables and wires inside the sheet metal driveshaft cover, along with the driveshaft (sounds like Seth did it this way), or did you go below the cockpit floor exposed on the bottom of the car?

[JimLev]

I don't have any wire inside the sheetmetal driveshaft cover.
They are routed off to the sides between the upper and lower bottom frame.
Here's a few not so good pics.

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[FF33rod]

Yes, inside the aluminum driveshaft cover. Here's 2 pics. The wires aren't full supported yet in these pics...
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[sethmark]

I did exactly the same thing that Steve did. Secured appropriately, there’s absolutely no way they could ever get into the driveshaft or yoke.

[JimLev]

Finally got some time to work on the '33 the last few days.
I was sidetracked helping our son change every bushing on his 190K mile 4Runner, that took us 3.5 days.
Then I bought myself a new 60 gal compressor, had to then put in a 240v outlet for it.
Also got a new 10 drawer tool box.

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I bought a new 4L60e tranny pan with a drain plug for my 4L65e, it almost fit. The 65e filter is a bit bigger than the 60e filter.
One edge of the filter's 1/2" bead was touching the side of the filter. A 1/16" trim fixed that.

I added a tranny cooler a few months ago and later decided to add a temp controlled 80 CFM fan to cool it.
I built a "dog house" enclosure over it, sort of a pain as a frame tube runs right thru the enclosure.

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Next was to mount the 2 rear fenders, mostly to get the mounting holes and rivnuts done.
The pass side went OK. The drivers side fender looks like it was formed wrong. I'm waiting for Tony Z to get back to me.

This is the pass side, which is fine.
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Drivers side, not good.
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[JimLev]

Mounted the rear fenders last week. Looks like I'm going to have to heat the drivers side fender to get it to more resemble the pass side.
I did rotate it back as much as possible to get it closer to how the pass side looks per Tony Z.
This week I put the running boards on.
I'm using 4 pieces of square tubing on both sides bolted to the bottom of the chassis that extends under the running boards for support.
Hopefully no one will ever step on them but if they do they won't break.

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Happy Holidays to all.
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[JimLev]

Finally got back in the garage to do some fiberglass cutting. Thanks for the tips AJT'33.
The side panels are a work in progress, I still need to trim the front to fit the radiator and then attach it to the car.

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[Bgardner]

Jim

vents in the side panels look great. Can you let me know where you sourced them or are they a custom made piece?


Thanks Bob

[JimLev]

Bob, I bought them from some place on line about a year ago.
I'll dig up the paperwork, it must be in the garage somewhere.
IIRC they were about $125. They come with mounting brackets and hardware.

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[Bgardner]

Thanks Jim

Much appreciated, they do look great and match nice with the grill.

[FF33rod]

Here's what I found. I asked about price a couple of days ago, $199 for the raw aluminum, powder coating or anodizing will be extra

http://www.streetdreamsbyross.com/vents.php

Steve

[JimLev]

Thanks FF33rod, I just found the paperwork. I was way off on the price. Shipping is extra. My total was $228.
The ones I purchased are the 24" long vents.

[FF33rod]

How did you assemble them Jim? The instructions that they sent me by email had a generic statement at the beginning about having welding skills but then the detailed sections mention panel bond. How did you assemble yours and how do they stay put in the opening?

Steve

[JimLev]

I haven't "glued" the inside brackets in yet, I was thinking about using either fiberglass resin or epoxy.
I think the welding is for mounting them in metal fenders.
The one I have mounted (not glued yet) is nice and tight.
I still need to cut the hole for the drivers side.

[OnlyAndy]

I saw your "Vents" much earlier in your build thread and I got a pair for my 33'. I am no where near getting them installed, heart issue kind of got in the way, but I really like seeing them mounted on your car. One day mine will be installed.... And they are a very nice product for the record. AND yes, right at $200, maybe a little more.

[JimLev]

How did you assemble them Jim? The instructions that they sent me by email had a generic statement at the beginning about having welding skills but then the detailed sections mention panel bond. How did you assemble yours and how do they stay put in the opening?

Steve

You need to make sure you don't cut the slotted hole too high up or you'll need to trim the top of the brackets the are on the back side of the side covers.
Yesterday I cut the slot for the drivers side, today I hope to get the front of both side panels trimmed to fit the grille.

120746

120747

[JimLev]

Got some snow the other day so both sides didn't get done. It's all melted now so I finished the pass side panel and got the hole cut for the drivers side vent.
Tomorrow I'll drill all of the mounting holes and start trimming the drivers side engine panel.

120890

[1932]

That looks good! I was going to put some kind of vent in, but then i cut a big hole for turbos. In my lookse the sides need something to set the panel off.

[JimLev]

Haven't done much on the hotrod in the last 2 weeks. Been busy extending the workbench and buying a few new tools for the garage.
A while ago I discovered the center caps on my American Racing wheels prevents the socket from fitting squarely on the lug nuts.
The center cap would need to be removed or get a thin wall socket. Off to HF to get a regular deep well impact socket and start using one of the new tools.

122954

122955

122956

[sethmark]

You can get thin lug nuts. (Damn them wheels are sexy)

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gor-21183bc/

[JimLev]

Thanks.
All the lug nuts came with the wheels.

[JimLev]

You can get thin lug nuts. (Damn them wheels are sexy)

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/gor-21183bc/

Thanks for trying....
3/4" is 19mm which is what came with the wheels.

[JimLev]

Got both engine side panels cut and installed a few days ago.
Still need to do the front fenders, hood, and top.
Thanks again AJT for the roll bar seal info, fits like a glove. I'll screw them down later.
I have the chassis set to factory height however with the running boards I'm scraping going over the little berm at the end of my driveway.
123671

123672

123673

123674

123675

[JimLev]

In my opinion it looks so much better with the roof on it. It's not attached yet, just sitting in place with the help of some duct tape.
I did find a 1.5" to 1.75" hose adapter for the corrugated stainless FF supplied line that connects to my LS3 t-stat housing on Amazon.
The adapters/spacers that come from FF blew off even with 2 clamps on the t-stat part.
https://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Performance-7812-Magna-Kool-Radiator/dp/B004AJ35HC/ref=pd_rhf_dp_p_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=R4JEVCPKV1RQ6X0FJTMV

I put 1.25" wheel spacers on the front and 1" spacers on the back.
Also raised the car about 3/4" to stop the scrapping leaving my driveway.
I ordered the bump steer kit a few days ago from Tim W.
Drove it around the hood a bit today until the rain started moving in.

124483

124484

124485

[JimLev]

After spending too many days inside because of the virus, I needed to get started on the body, not something I'm that good at doing.
I have two+ days grinding and filling the parting seams in the back. I wanted to get some primer on it.
The weather wasn't cooperating and I only wanted to shoot a little so it was in the garage with most stuff covered up and a fan in the door.
The prep work looked good but after the primer was on I can see some of the body imperfections I missed.

125084

125085

[cob427sc]

It's amazing how everything looks great until the paint hits the surface. I know how you feel. Been there many times.

[JimLev]

Right you are. I never saw those pin holes before the paint. Gotta get some glaze.

Is your nail head a 425?
When I lived in MA a friend had a 63 1/2 Riv, 425 with two 4's, it was quick.

[cob427sc]

No. Mine is a 364. It was out of a 1958. Friend had stored it in a garage since 1963. Actually he forgot it was there. Rebuilt this winter and runs great. Trying to sort out some issues with the transmission. Hopefully this clears up without having to pull it out.

[JimLev]

Been working on the roof. Grinding, filling, sanding, and priming for the last 4 days.
Next is to remove it and cut around the front & rear windshields openings to increase visibility.
I test fitted them today, pretty good fit.

126161

126162

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126165

[sethmark]

Are you digging out the pockets and filling with rage or short strand?

[JimLev]

You bet, dug them all out, I'm using short strand.
The drivers side A frame had a small pin hole that I tried to fill a few time but it just kept coming out when I would sand it.
I decided to make the hole a little bigger figuring it would have more area to hold on to.
Before I knew it I had a void 1" x 3/4" x 1/2" deep.

[sethmark]

tool of choice?

[JimLev]

tool of choice?
For digging them out, a pick, small screwdriver, shopvac, and an air hose to blow it out.

[AJT '33]

Hey Jim, here are the pics of the third brake light.
126421 126422 126423

I'll get you some more when we put the hard top back on.

[JimLev]

Thanks for the pics. I think I found part of the problem.
When the trunk is closed the seal keeps the trunk lid even with the body.
When I open the trunk the middle of the front edge bows down about 1/4" so it hits the 3rd light.

[shmelty]

Tim Whittacker sells a piece to brace that area.
http://www.kootenaivalleycustoms.com/Products.php
126440

[JimLev]

Shmelty, hard to tell from the pic, does that part attach at the top forward part of the trunk lid?
I thought it was for the bottom, guess I'm wrong?

[FF33rod]

I have this piece as well, works great. Before I put it in there was some sag in this area. Once I installed it I can adjust the body to be the same height as the trunk lid when it's closed.
It attaches between the top of the frame in the trunk and the body (not the lid) in the middle of the trunk opening (by the gas tank not the lower rear). Tim has another piece that goes along the rear of the body to stiffen up the trunk opening where the latch goes.

Steve

[JimLev]

OK, thanks to both of you, now I understand where it attaches too.

[JimLev]

Thanks again guys. I didn't want to wait for Tim's nice bracket to be shipped, needed to get a move on to get this car at least registered by this summer.
I had some 16ga stainless left over from workbench tops that I used to make 3 L-brackets. I need to do some trimming to have the edge of the bracket even with the edge of the body.
One bracket in the center with the other 2 about 12" either side. This pulled the rear down at least 1/4". The trunk is now even with the back and clears my 3rd brake light.

126477

[JimLev]

I bought Tim W's bump steer kit, it came today. It is well made.
NAZ, I will use a big washer on top, thanks for that bit of info.
Nice to see it has dust boots too.

126934

I've slowly been doing body work.
Got all the high and low spots in the trunk done.

126935

Still need to get outside to flip the roof over to fix the front and rear surfaces where they mount to the body.
It's just been a bit too windy to work outside.

[TxMike64]

I bought Tim W's bump steer kit...
126934.

Tim needs to use your picture on his website - these look much nicer than the ones on his website!

[JimLev]

Tim needs to use your picture on his website - these look much nicer than the ones on his website!
I told him that and sent pics to him.

Still working on the roof. I'm enlarging the front and rear windshield openings to increase visibility (NAZ, thanks for the tip).
If any of you have done this what did you use for a blade? This fiberglass chews up blades like it was candy. I went thru 4 blades just doing the front.

127109

Bottom cut, filled all the voids
127110

127111

The inner and outer sides aren't bonded together that will. The bottom edge was the worse.

127112

[FF33rod]

Yeah, unfortunately those voids are everywhere. Also have varying thicknesses where 2 panels are bonded. Part of the "fun" right?

what dimension are you trimming back to? asking for a friend ;)

Steve

[JimLev]

I'm leaving 1/2" on for the glass to attach to. I'm starting the rear now, not as easy to do as the front.

[progmgr1]

Another tip from Tim W.: use a cutting disk on a Dremel or similar tool to trim the fiberglass parts. I did that when cutting up my trunk lid and it worked well. It was easy to cut a smooth straight line and to follow a gentle curve. For sharper curves I just rough cut the curve with the disk and then ground / sanded to final size or used a Dremel router bit if I just needed a slot.

Ditto on the appearance of Tim's bump steer kit. Tim changed machine shops a few years back and I think that the workmanship improved, and the photo on his website is very old.

Keith HR #894

[JimLev]

Thanks Keith. I did think about using my angle grinder but thought it would clog up the disc. I also have a Drumel so I'll use both tomorrow. I tried to use my router, it worked but was very slow and hard to keep a straight line, only got 24" done.

[FF33rod]

I've used this dremel wheel to trim some of the fiberglass parts, it's worked well. https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/ez544-ez-lock-1-1-2-cutting-shaping-wheel
I've never seen this other one but it might be even better.... https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/543-cutting-shaping-wheel

Steve

[JimLev]

Steve, I've got that Dremel cutting/shaping wheel that's in the first link. Forgot all about that one.
Thanks, I'll use it.

[progmgr1]

I used this E Z Lock kit that I got on Amazon (back when the price was ~$15): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Q8T4OM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The abrasive disks labeled for plastics worked well, but the thin cut and disks for metal seemed to work the same. The only issue was that I had to be careful when trying to cut a curve. If I forced the angle too much the disk would bind in the slot and break, and then the partial disk would kick out of the work and bend the shaft. Maybe the cutter you linked will be more robust. I have something similar that was originally for wood, but may work on fiberglass as well. I'll have to try that next time...
Keith

[JimLev]

Got it done, with the Dremel disc the fiberglass cut like it was going thru butter, well almost. This is the one I used. https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/tools/543-cutting-shaping-wheel
For the corners I made pie cuts. My disc was only 1 1/4" diameter so it was a little easier to do the corners.
I did mess up one part when I used the router yesterday but it's an easy fix.
Thanks for the info again guys.

127182

[JimLev]

I've been working on this train wreck of a roof for the last 2+ weeks, still not done but I'm getting there.
Got tired of filling, sanding, priming, etc. Today I put the roof back on the body to mark the holes to mount it to the body.
I followed NAZ's info on using expanding rivnuts with a washer behind them as the body isn't that thick.
I used a forstner bit to keep the head even with the body.

127676

127677

The rivet gun that came with the kit will work if you remove the threaded in piece.

127678

Now I need to fix the part of the roof that meets the body.

127679

127680

127681

[Carter3]

Good luck with the top!

I'm at the same spot with a top that looks about the same. I've been looking for the motivation to fix what should have never been shipped. This is one of the areas that I feel FFR could really use some help with their QC.

[JimLev]

I hear ya Carter. One would think for the $$$ we shelled out the body quality would be better.
So after 3 days of filling, sanding, putting the top on, taking it off way too many times I'm close to done with the back.
Just need to touch up a few areas and then move on to the front. At least it's shorter in length so it won't take as long.
I don't have the seal in it yet.

128265

128266

128267

[e36m3]

Looks good, what did you use to bond the inner and outer parts of the roof together?

[JimLev]

The roof is just sitting on the body. It won't be bonded, just bolted down, with the gasket in between the two parts.
I'm still working on the front lip that will sit on the cowl and fitting the new seats in.

[e36m3]

Hi Jim,
Thanks for the response, but I should have been more specific with my question since I was looking at post that was from a month ago.
I was referring to this picture. How did you improve the bonding between layers?

129054

Thanks,
Andy

[JimLev]

I've been using USC Duraglas, it has fiberglas fillers in it. Seems to be stronger than Rage Gold that I also use.
For bigger holes I use fiberglass cloth and resin.
I like your sig, e36m3. I guess I could have been e39540sport.

[e36m3]

I've been using USC Duraglas, it has fiberglas fillers in it. Seems to be stronger than Rage Gold that I also use.
For bigger holes I use fiberglass cloth and resin.
I like your sig, e36m3. I guess I could have been e39540sport.

I've had my 95 M3 for 16 years. Your E39 540 sport in my opinion is the best 5 series BMW will ever build.

[JimLev]

Thanks e36m3, yours is a classic one too. I friend of mine had one, we would rip up the roads occasionally. My 540 is a 6 speed with lots of nitrous and an M5 diff.

So after 5 days of working on my new seats they are installed.
Had to modify the mounting brackets, took the seats apart to clean them and install heating pads in the bottom and back.
These are from a Mazda Miata. I swapped them with a guy that had them in a Cobra.

FFR seats and the Miata seat.
129227

Miata seats, back reclines, has a storage pocket, and has slides on the bottom.
Bad thing is each seat weighs 20 lbs more than the FF seat, but they are more comfortable.
129228

[PhilO]

Love those seats. Just found factory five a couple months ago but love the thought of eventually building one. Jim, I live in Rio Rancho about 15 minutes from placitas. If you ever need a couple extra hands let me know, would love to see your 33 and am willing to help if you need it.

[JimLev]

Phil, welcome to the forum.
I'll get in touch with you soon.
There is another guy that lives in RR that is building an 818.

[BC Huselton]

Thanks e36m3, yours is a classic one too. I friend of mine had one, we would rip up the roads occasionally. My 540 is a 6 speed with lots of nitrous and an M5 diff.

So after 5 days of working on my new seats they are installed.
Had to modify the mounting brackets, took the seats apart to clean them and install heating pads in the bottom and back.
These are from a Mazda Miata. I swapped them with a guy that had them in a Cobra.

FFR seats and the Miata seat.
129227

Miata seats, back reclines, has a storage pocket, and has slides on the bottom.
Bad thing is each seat weighs 20 lbs more than the FF seat, but they are more comfortable.
129228

Jim what is the base measurement of the Miata seats? is it < 19" Thanks, BC

[JimLev]

BC, the widest part of the seat bottom is 19 1/4".
My seats are raised about 4" off the floor and I do have a console that sits on top of the tranny tunnel cover.
They worked in my favor to install these slightly wider (bottom part) seats. The tops of the seat are narrower than the FF seats.

I bought leather/vinyl cleaner and dye from www.autoleatherdye.com to touch up a few of the worn spots.
Before
129265

After
129266

[BC Huselton]

BC, the widest part of the seat bottom is 19 1/4".
My seats are raised about 4" off the floor and I do have a console that sits on top of the tranny tunnel cover.
They worked in my favor to install these slightly wider (bottom part) seats. The tops of the seat are narrower than the FF seats.

I bought leather/vinyl cleaner and dye from www.autoleatherdye.com to touch up a few of the worn spots.
Before
129265

After
129266

Jim thanks. I am planning on reducing the size of the tunnel by 1 inch. Right now it is 5.5" down to 4.5" w/ Drive shaft @ 3"
Doing this so I can fit Sparco R100 seats.

Any reason to be concerned about the spacing for the Drive Shaft? I am adding another safety strap forward of the stock strap and reducing the width of the current strap. Any other readers have any cautions for me before I cut and weld? Thanks, BC

[JimLev]

I don't know the dimensions of your Sparco seat, making the tunnel and the driveshaft cover smaller should help.

[JimLev]

Still working on the roof, specifically the front below where the windshield fiberglass meets the cowl.
I have the contour pretty close to matching the cowl. But need to ask some of you about where the A pillar meets the body and door.
The drivers side has a 1/2" gap to the door. the pass side only has an 1/8" gap to the door.
Start filling the drivers side, trim the pass side, or both?
The beltline on the doors match to the body.

Drivers side gap.
130170

Pass side gap.
130171

[AJT '33]

Still working on the roof, specifically the front below where the windshield fiberglass meets the cowl.
I have the contour pretty close to matching the cowl. But need to ask some of you about where the A pillar meets the body and door.
The drivers side has a 1/2" gap to the door. the pass side only has an 1/8" gap to the door.
Start filling the drivers side, trim the pass side, or both?
The beltline on the doors match to the body.

Drivers side gap.
130170

Pass side gap.
130171

Hey Jim, put in the seal for the hard top temporarily with some tape and see how it looks, the seal can make up a portion of the gap. Then you only fill the gapped area as much as is needed. Remember don't fill with Bondo more than an 1/8-3/16" max, from your pics I believe your seal will fill the balance of the gap fine. Here is a few pics of my filling in that area.

If you have a removable hard top and windshield, then fit the windshield to fit the best (which may mean you need to add to the body because you cant adjust the windshield) and then work your gap for the hard top by working the base of the hard top to the body. A trick I used, to see how much real gap there is, I laid 2 layers of wax paper where the hard top contacts the body, then I mixed up some putty and placed a wad under the lip of the hard top and then laid it down and allowed it to set. Lift it up and you can see how much you added and the perfect fit is there.

Here are some pics of my seal and the gaps, not even but close, I should have paid more attention in pre-fitting the seal before finalizing, lesson learned.

130359 130360 130361

[JimLev]

Thanks for the pics and info AJT. I was unaware that the bulb seal would stick out that much. That would help hide some imperfections.
I have been doing just what you said to the front and back of the roof to get it to match the cowl contour.
3/16” would be more than enough for the drivers side A-pillar.
Thanks again for your help, body work is not something I enjoy doing.

[JimLev]

After looking and measuring both sides the big gap between A-pillar and the door on the drivers side is due to the the front top part of the door being too low.
I guess I’ll add some fiberglass to the top of the door to raise its height.

[JimLev]

Almost done with the A-pillars.
Every part that touched the body needed fixing.

130649

130650

[RoadRacer]

looks good though!

[NAZ]

Jim, the fit on your A pillars looks very good. The biggest struggle I had with body work centered around the asymmetrical shape of that top (exacerbated by the crooked body). I mounted mine permanent (to meet NHRA requirements) which I think made it easier to deal with but understand that most will want the removal option. The whole asymmetrical body thing plus the fiberglass shrinking & moving (while curing??) caused a great deal of heartburn during my build. These are small cars and trying to fit a NHRA style roll cage inside that warped body was a real challenge. If memory serves, I found that body to be nearly 3/4" off from left to right in some areas and I just couldn't see building a crooked chassis to match a crooked body, that's just not right.

Your body work is exemplary and once the car is painted and looking great you'll forget all about the struggles getting it there. OK, maybe not forget totally but it won't seem so bad once you're enjoying how good it looks and know that you created it.

[AJT '33]

Almost done with the A-pillars.
Every part that touched the body needed fixing.

130649

130650

Jim, make sure your door opens and closes with clearance with the seals. As well if you have windows, make sure any frames or felts that you install have clearance as well so it does not rub on the edge of the hard top lip as well, this should be tight enough to alleviate air squealing/whining. Also if you have power windows don;t cut the felts that go on the door lip until its all together AFTER paint. I cut them too soon and needed to get replacements from FFR as they ended up too short in the end.

Have fun!

[JimLev]

Thanks for all info guys. Yes NAZ the body and doors are a PITA to deal with. At least one can't see both sides at the same time.
As much as I'd like to bond the top to the body I'd be losing easy access to the fuel pickup and level sensor.

Good info AJT on the clearance for the window seals. I do have power windows that I haven't cut the slots for yet.

I have the roof off again to fill in the part below the windshield so the seal to the cowl will have a smooth area to stick too.

130810

130811

[AJT '33]

Thanks for all info guys. Yes NAZ the body and doors are a PITA to deal with. At least one can't see both sides at the same time.
As much as I'd like to bond the top to the body I'd be losing easy access to the fuel pickup and level sensor.

Good info AJT on the clearance for the window seals. I do have power windows that I haven't cut the slots for yet.

I have the roof off again to fill in the part below the windshield so the seal to the cowl will have a smooth area to stick too.

130810

130811

I did the same so I could ensure the seals had a good surface to adhere to.
130823 130824
Then I added my special fasteners for the front
130825

[JimLev]

AJT, are all those front studs really required?
I only have 3 but could add a few more.
Question for ya, did you fish the power wires for the wiper motor up inside the A pillar?
Did you have to cut an access hole anywhere in order to get the wires up to the motor?

[AJT '33]

AJT, are all those front studs really required?
I only have 3 but could add a few more.
Question for ya, did you fish the power wires for the wiper motor up inside the A pillar?
Did you have to cut an access hole anywhere in order to get the wires up to the motor?

So, for the front attachments, I wanted an even draw between the top and the body to ensure a good seal, that's the only reason why I have that many. I am also using wing nuts with serrated washers to affix it, easy to tighten and remove, the serrated washers impede the wing nuts from turning off.

For the rear, I drilled the five holes in the hard top as per the manual. For power I fished the wiring from the behind the passenger window and have a five contact spring pin connector. I added Rivnuts to the body as there is no access to the bolts form the body side, so I used a 1/4-20 bolt from the top at each hole location. Most of the force from the wind will be on the front regardless.

130955 You can see the receiver side in this pic, the male pin side is on the hard top. This way when I remove the hard top I can place the cover provided by FFR and it will cover these contacts. I then don't need to disconnect any wires when removing the hard top. I also made sure I centered the contacts (and embedded the one in the hard top a bit) so I could run the seal on either side to have a good even seal.

I then ran the wires from that location on the hard top up over the window and to where it comes out on the holes I drilled for the wipers.

I also took advantage of having the caps there by running a wire from one side to the other and embedded single LED courtesy lights into the cap of which I have a push button switch on the side of my console. I could not find a pic of it but when the car is back I will definitely take one and update this post.

PS, I ended up drilling holes through the rear cover provided by FFR so I am able to use the same holes as the hard top, the bolt is for furniture and has a large head and has a dirty copper color so it fits well.

[JimLev]

Thanks for the info. I’m going to add a few more studs to the front. I like your wing nut idea.
I forgot about a courtesy light, will have to run a wire for that to along with the wiper wires.
I now have the whole roof primed, inside and out.
I have a diamond bit on order to drill a hole thru the windshield for the wiper shaft, should be here on Monday.

[JimLev]

Added a few more studs for the front below the windshield, thanks for the tip AJT.
Got the wires run thru the roof for the wiper motor and interior lights. Using your light setup AJT, thanks again.
Today I made the tcollins aluminum window frames, just waiting on the rubber parts to finish them.
I'll hopefully cut the slots in the tops of the doors tomorrow so I can trial fit them.

132197

[JimLev]

Can't believe my last build post was in July.
Since then after spending too much time on the tcollins window frames. I gave up on them. Just couldn't get them to work properly. I kept the top L angle aluminum and his seal parts.
Had to fill in the tops of the doors to make them level for the L angle aluminum.

I then started helping a friend put a new Howard cam in his '67 427 tri-power vette, then a clutch replacement in his '66 vette.
Then redid my front yard (no grass here in the high desert) with 13 tons of Pueblo Rose crushed stone, and a ton of flagstone for the walk.

Back to the hotrod.
Ground down and fiberglassed the drivers side of the dash and part of the door so the door would close and have everything align, except the top of the door to the top of the dash. Not going to worry about that.
I lowered the high back Miata seats so the top would clear the roll bar.
After that I fished wires thru the roof for cabin lights and power to the wiper motor. The upper part of the motor will be fastened to the roof just above the glass.
I decided to drill a hole using a 3/8" diamond bit hole saw thru the windshield for the wiper shaft.
The hole boring when fine but about 10 seconds after I was done the inside laminated piece of glass cracked top to bottom. The outer glass was fine. New windshield arrives tomorrow.
I'll practice on the old one before I attempt to do drill the new one.

I wanted to do something about covering up the LS3 coils that mount on the tops of the valve covers.
138888

I was thinking alone the lines of using EddieMotorsport cover like Seth did.
Then I came across some new Edelbrock cast aluminum covers on eBay for almost 1/2 off.
The only problem was they require different coils as the coil mounting boss spacing on the covers use different spacing than my LS3 coils.
I did some milling on the sides of the boss so the coils would drop in place. I could only use 1 bolt per coil to hold the coils but added a lock washer, they will be fine.
138889

138890

138891

138892

138893

Back to more body work now.

[sethmark]

Love the Edelbrocks! Nice work.

[cob427sc]

I'm not a glass expert but I did attempt this once before and the suggestion to me was to use a small amount of water to cool the glass while drilling. Since the windsheild didn't crack I guess it worked.

[JimLev]

I had my Corvette buddy keeping a continuous flow of water flowing on it. I will keep trying until I can drill many holes without a failure, then I’ll attempt it on the new glass.

[33fromSD]

I've used this method several times with great success...good luck

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzGG1uMHnRg

[JimLev]

I've used this method several times with great success...good luck

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzGG1uMHnRg

^_Thanks, that way uses a lot less water and doesn't need a second person to squirt water on the glass.

2nd times a charm. Practiced on the old windshield.
I didn't really do anything different other than slow the bit speed down to 1/2 of what DeWalt recommended.
Think I'll drill a few more holes before doing it on the 'new' windshield.

139360

Front side
139361

Back side
139362

[33fromSD]

Great job Jim, yeah I use this method all the time and have never broke a windshield or glass block or anything else I'm putting a hole in. Jim

[JimLev]

Haven’t drilled the new windshield yet. Decided I didn’t really like the looks of the GM fuel rail so I bought the Holley Sniper billet fuel rail. Installed it today.
Doing this is so much better than doing body work.
Before:
139507

After:
139508

[33fromSD]

Haven’t drilled the new windshield yet. Decided I didn’t really like the looks of the GM fuel rail so I bought the Holley Sniper billet fuel rail. Installed it today.
Doing this is so much better than doing body work.

Looks really nice...boy that power plant is a snug fit in there isn't it. :o

[Straversi]

The coil pack covers and the billet rails make a big difference. Looks good
-Steve

[JimLev]

Finally got around to drilling the new windshield, success this time!
One thing I did notice is that the core drill gets plugged up with the layers the windshield is comprised of.
I didn't notice this when I drilled the original windshield. This may have contributed to the first one cracking as I probably needed more pressure to keep the bit cutting.
I made sure I cleaned the core out after it when thru each of the 3 sections.
Now to make an angled mount to mount the wiper motor to the inside top so the shaft will be perpendicular to the glass.

140301

140302

140303

[NAZ]

Looks good!

[fletch]

Drilling a windshield has got to be a nerve wracking business. Glad it worked out for you.

[JimLev]

Fitted the wiper motor inside, shortened the wiper arm and blade to fit the small windshield.
I purposely moved it more to the center so the motor wouldn't obstruct my vision. This last year we only had 7" of rain so I'm not to concerned about it's position. Just have to have it to pass inspection.
After testing the wiper I removed it and moved on to mounting the mirrors. One of these days (soon I hope) I'll take the body off to cut holes in the dash for the AC, then mount the hood.


140362

140363

140364

[RoadRacer]

So funny, I literally just walked in from the garage where I had pulled out the wiper motor to start thinking whether to drill through glass or, well, 'glass. What made you decide on the riskier choice? Was it just an easier plug when it was removed?

[JimLev]

NAZ had a pic of his car with a hole in the windshield with a plug in it when the wiper isn’t mounted. I didn’t like the look of the car with a wiper so I will take it out, plug the hole, and keep it in the trunk if it is ever needed after I get the car registered and inspected.
If I drilled thru the ‘glass roof the plug would look funny I think.

[JimLev]

Worked on the door windows after making some aluminum trim for the cutout hole in the top of the door.
The supplied door window weather strip was a no-go. I purchased the weather strip tcollins recommended.
Pass side is done and almost seals perfectly to the top of the roof weather strip which I'm pretty sure I can fix.
The drives side window won't align with the cutout, might have to pull everything out and start chopping up the lower bracket.

140449

140450

140451

140452

[HVACMAN]

Worked on the door windows after making some aluminum trim for the cutout hole in the top of the door.
The supplied door window weather strip was a no-go. I purchased the weather strip tcollins recommended.
Pass side is done and almost seals perfectly to the top of the roof weather strip which I'm pretty sure I can fix.
The drives side window won't align with the cutout, might have to pull everything out and start chopping up the lower bracket.

140449

140450

140451

140452

The passenger side looks amazing Jim. Did you fab the trim pieces yourself? Also, do you think the fitment of the window on the drivers side is related to the poor quality of the driver side door we have all experienced?

[JimLev]

Andy, yes I made them out of 1/2 x 3/8” angle aluminum.
I did manage to get the drivers door to close and align properly after having to twist the inner frame using a bolt to tweak it so the front lower part of the door would align with the body. This must have impacted how the power window frame mounts to the inner door frame to cause the window to be way out of alignment. I’ve shimmed the window and it’s lift assy, it’s better but still off too much. Back to the drawing board.

[e36m3]

Fitted the wiper motor inside, shortened the wiper arm and blade to fit the small windshield.
I purposely moved it more to the center so the motor wouldn't obstruct my vision. This last year we only had 7" of rain so I'm not to concerned about it's position. Just have to have it to pass inspection.
After testing the wiper I removed it and moved on to mounting the mirrors. One of these days (soon I hope) I'll take the body off to cut holes in the dash for the AC, then mount the hood.


140362

140363

140364

Digging the E39 in the pic.

[JimLev]

Digging the E39 in the pic.


Thanks. I’ve had it since new, going on 21 years old soon. For most of it’s life it’s been on steroids.
You may dig this pic even more.
140667

[TxMike64]

Thanks. I’ve had it since new, going on 21 years old soon. For most of it’s life it’s been on steroids.
You may dig this pic even more.
140667

Nice! That's a lotta juice! How does the M62 like that?

[JimLev]

Mike, it’s a 2 stage setup, first stage is the 8 injectors in the intake runners. It starts off at 20% juice and ramps up to 100% in 2 seconds, that’s good for 125HP. The second stage comes on, no ramping. It has 2 injectors, one at each end of the intake manifold, that’s good for another 55HP. It’s quick, about 480HP at the crank. 1st and 2nd gear don’t last long.

[e36m3]

I bet you've suprised a few people at the stop light with your E39! Cool that you've owned it since new.

[JimLev]

E36M3, it’s a sleeper alright.

I could use some help on the trunk latch, anybody have some words of wisdom or maybe a different latch setup? I’ve been working on trying to get it aligned properly all day and not having much luck. Did you have to do any cutting of either bracket?

[33fromSD]

E36M3, it’s a sleeper alright.

I could use some help on the trunk latch, anybody have some words of wisdom or maybe a different latch setup? I’ve been working on trying to get it aligned properly all day and not having much luck. Did you have to do any cutting of either bracket?

I didn't have to do any cutting on mine but it's a poor design and very finicky (as you're experiencing) to adjust. I think I spent about 4 hours getting mine to latch / release without catching...very tight tolerances.

I did end up playing with the striker bracket's bend some (changed the angle) so the striker angles up towards the trunk lid slightly. this helped a bunch.

Where the original bend was it was off (IMO) compared to the arc of the trunk lid. Sounds odd and I'm sure if someone was in the garage with me at the time they would have been asking WTH, but I finally spent about 45 minutes visualizing / motioning the arc path the striker takes.

Once I had that figured out and I figured out the bend was off, as well as what bend I needed in the striker bracket, then the adjustments went smoother.

Just like the hood latch though, I'm going to install latch poppers to help pop the trunk lid up slightly once the latch release is pulled. Right now, you hear the latch release, but the trunk lid doesn't move a lot if at all, opening the lid would be much easier if it popped up a bit (1/4 - 1/2").

Jim

[JimLev]

I just pulled off the rear trunk aluminum piece so I could get a look from underneath.
I'll start by bending the trunk bracket and trimming the bracket that is mounted to the body. Glad I didn't rivet it in like the manual shows.

140797

[JimLev]

I machined the head of the striker a little so it will clear the body mounted bracket. I have it aligned but the trunk bracket hits the body mounted bracket which prevents the trunk from closing the last 1/4”.
If I could get a longer striker (shoulder bolt) I could move the trunk bracket up a bit.

[Kamp]

I machined the head of the striker a little so it will clear the body mounted bracket. I have it aligned but the trunk bracket hits the body mounted bracket which prevents the trunk from closing the last 1/4”.
If I could get a longer striker (shoulder bolt) I could move the trunk bracket up a bit.

Jim I made a spacer to move the mounting bracket back, this after making an aluminum striker which I could modify more easily than the SS one FFR supplies. Once I had all working did any mods to the SS striker needed.

[JimLev]

Thanks Jim and Kamp. I’m going to move the bracket on the lid and get a longer shoulder bolt like the one for the hood (which I haven’t installed yet).
I do have some door poppers that I’ll use on the trunk, I don’t need to use them on the doors, they pop open when unlatched.

[Kamp]

Thanks Jim and Kamp. I’m going to move the bracket on the lid and get a longer shoulder bolt like the one for the hood (which I haven’t installed yet).
I do have some door poppers that I’ll use on the trunk, I don’t need to use them on the doors, they pop open when unlatched.

Jim do you have the trunk weather-strip installed yet? I haven't done mine but was hoping it would provide enough spring to unlatch the trunk.

[JimLev]

No, I haven’t installed the weather-strip yet. I hope it doesn’t prevent the trunk from closing all the way. Right now the sides of the trunk are even with the body.

[33fromSD]

Kamp, I have the weather strip installed on mine and it does provide enough spring to "hear" the lid unlatch but not really enough to pop the trunk lid up.

[JimLev]

I’m about ready to trash the trunk lock, I’ve waisted too much time trying to get it to work reliably without getting stuck.
Anybody know where I can get a lock similar to the one in this pic?

140947

[progmgr1]

If you've given up on the usual suspects (Summit, Speedway, Jegs, etc.) you might try Sacramento Vintage Ford https://vintageford.com/sect_main.cfm?Line=main I have never dealt with them, but they seem to have a wide range of vintage and reproduction parts that may work for you. HTH Keith HR #894

[33fromSD]

I got mine through Speedway Motors....I'm going to do the same....while I have the FFR latch working fine, I keep thinking it's not going to be reliable down the road so I want something different. Since I put the external door handles on I think the trunk lid handle will compliment it.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1932-34-Ford-Trunk-Lid-Locking-Handle-and-Latch-Kit,418663.html

The latch is kind of funky so I need to think through on how to mount that.

[JimLev]

Thanks Keith and Jim. I was trying to find one that at least had some pics or directions of it mounted, no luck.
Jim, I think I’ll get the one from Speedway. Not exactly sure how it mounts, looks like the box part mounts to the inside surface of the trunk lid.
I called them this morning however after being on hold for 30min I gave up.
Just a few days ago I orders the parts from Speedway to replace the corrugated metal tubing that FFR sent for the lower radiator hose to the water pump.

[Kamp]

Kamp, I have the weather strip installed on mine and it does provide enough spring to "hear" the lid unlatch but not really enough to pop the trunk lid up.

Thanks for the info.

[JimLev]

I got mine through Speedway Motors....I'm going to do the same....while I have the FFR latch working fine, I keep thinking it's not going to be reliable down the road so I want something different. Since I put the external door handles on I think the trunk lid handle will compliment it.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1932-34-Ford-Trunk-Lid-Locking-Handle-and-Latch-Kit,418663.html

The latch is kind of funky so I need to think through on how to mount that.

Got the same latch a you, it arrived today.
Interesting that it doesn’t come with the nut (3/8x24) or washer to hold the handle to the lock mechanism.

[33fromSD]

Got the same latch a you, it arrived today.
Interesting that it doesn’t come with the nut (3/8x24) or washer to hold the handle to the lock mechanism.

I noticed that too.... oh well, I have three hardware stores within about 2 miles of me so no biggie if I need to source one.

I'm hoping to get to mine this weekend after I wrap up my dash wiring.

[JimLev]

I’m planning on mounting the latch tomorrow. I’ll post my results.

This part (I’m guessing) mounts to the body and we’ll have to add a pin to it for the lock hook to catch on.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1928-37-Ford-Rumble-Seat-Trunk-Lid-Latch-Striker,34085.html?NoRedirect=true&OriginalQuery=91126102

[33fromSD]

I’m planning on mounting the latch tomorrow. I’ll post my results.

This part (I’m guessing) mounts to the body and we’ll have to add a pin to it for the lock hook to catch on.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1928-37-Ford-Rumble-Seat-Trunk-Lid-Latch-Striker,34085.html?NoRedirect=true&OriginalQuery=91126102

That was my thinking as well.

I look forward to seeing how you make out on the install. Jim

[JimLev]

Mounted the (Vintique) trunk latch I bought from Speedway today.
I'll wait on permanently mounting the last piece the hook part of the lock catches on until I get the weather stripping on.

Drilled 1.25" hole centered on trunk.
142013

The gap could be taken up with spacers or shims.
142014

I decided I didn't want spacers or shims.
142015

142016

142017

142018

142019

[33fromSD]

Mounted the (Vintique) trunk latch I bought from Speedway today.
I'll wait on permanently mounting the last piece the hook part of the lock catches on until I get the weather stripping on.

Drilled 1.25" hold centered on trunk.

The gap could be taken up with spacers or shims.


I decided I didn't want spacers or shims.


Nice job...looks good

[JimLev]

Wow, it's been 8 months since I did any updates. Been busy with family stuff, vacations, etc.
I have been working on the car just not as much as in the past.
The alarm system and door popper are installed.
Door panels are fitted (only to be removed when I paint the inside.
154270

I removed all of the stainless radiator flex hose and found better parts.
154271

Then I installed the Bump Steer kit as well as replacing all the brakes in all 4 wheels with PowerStop Extreme pads.
Forgot who recommended them...thanks.
154272

Next was to install a Line Lock thru the small cutout in the front cowl. That 2 hour job took 2 days because of very limited access.
154273

Now it's on to get the left side of the trunk lid to fit flush with the body. I bent a piece of box tubing and bolted it to the inside of the trunk lid.
154274

Now it's time to make the hood fit. It's way too high. If I had known I wouldn't have laid the grill all the way back.
154275

Then make the belly pan fit.
154276

Time for some primer and paint.
154277

154278

154279

The front fenders are hanging from the ceiling, I'll start working on them next.

[HVACMAN]

I'm glad to know someone else is having problems with the left side of the trunk lid. I was beginning to think it was something I did. I have worked on it off and on for months. I would get frustrated and quit. I have decided the problem is with the body and not the lid. I have a question Jim. Did you have a problem with the lower left rear corner of the body being malformed where the quarter panel joins the body? I think the bodies on our cars were produced at about the same time.

[33fromSD]

Looks great Jim, I like the yellow.

Jim

[JimLev]

Andy, I had both stages delivered at the same time so your body is about 7 months newer than mine. They are both Gen 1.
My back left seems OK however even though the floor to chassis measurements are the same the rear of the fender to floor measurement are 3/4” off. The left side is higher.
It took forever to get the trunk lid to open and close without scraping. Once that was adjusted I started to work on the left side of the trunk lid. The middle of it was about 3/8” above the body, the top and bottom edges were OK.
I heated and bent the box tubing, installed nutserts in the lid then used the box tubing to pull the middle of the lid down.
I don’t have any of the weather strip installed so that may require more adjusting.

[JimLev]

Finally taking some time to update my build.
Thank you SVTfreak for the info in the door popper to fix my hood not popping up from the front most of the time (Gen1).
I opened it up to replace the spring with one that had a little less tension. I also added a spring to make sure the latch always opens up all the way when the hood is opened.

156664

156665

I finally started to get some color on the hotrod, need to finish the drivers side fender today.

156666

[JimLev]

Got the driver's side front fender shot with color, cleared, and mounted.
Next will be working on the roof so I can get the front and rear glass permanently installed.

156844

156845

[1932]

That looks GOOD!

[JimLev]

Got a little more done yesterday. Painted the waterfall again, didn’t like how it came out the first time I painted it.
The running board step panels came in today, thanks for the info 33fromSD.
I added the yellow inserts hoping it would match the car, if it didn’t I’d paint them. Looks so close I’ll leave them like they are.
The new alarm system arrived today so that’s what I’ll be working on this afternoon and probably tomorrow too.

158169

[33fromSD]

Step plates look awesome.

Jim

[JimLev]

Got the alarm system installed (thanks again ProgMgr1) and a little more painting done the last few days.
The pass door inside and outside. Will do the drivers door, then the trunk, and the roof.
I’ll do the body last.

158908

158909

[progmgr1]

Gotta love that yellow! I had a (German built) Mercury Capri II that color back in the day. Good memories.
Keith HR #894

[JimLev]

There is a guy here in our local car club (mostly old Vetts and 60’s muscle cars) that has a German built Mercury Capri, yellow with a black top. He bought it new and still drives it.

[JimLev]

Got a little more done today, RR fender painted and mounted. Took the LR off to start prepping it for painting.
I’ll do the trunk next.

159310

[JimLev]

Worked on getting the left side of the trunk to match the body better with a piece of 1/2” square tubing that I bent to pull the middle section down. It’s close to perfect.
I then painted the the tubing and the trunk. All that is left is the drivers door, the roof, and the body.

160279

160280

[33fromSD]

Looks great Jim, love the yellow but I hate to ask, how is the fit with the weather stripping on?

My issue on my Gen2 was without weather stripping the trunk lid fit great, when I put the weather stripping on the sides were up about 1/8", top & bottom were fine though. I hadn't painted mine yet at the time so I could play with a little and finally got it.

Jim

[WIS89]

Jim-

She looks amazing, and I have enjoyed watching your build. I have a question to ask you, however. I looked for the answer, and I didn't see it mentioned in your thread, so if you already addressed this, I apologize!

What is the reason for painting the car in sections, as you have, rather than waiting to paint it all at once? I can see the convenience of it, but I would be concerned about how well the paint laid down, and how it matched up -- because of my inexperience.

I can't wait to see her all dressed up! She is really beautiful!!

Regards,

Steve

[JimLev]

Jim, no the weather stripping isn’t in. I’m going to borrow some play dough from our granddaughter to put between the trunk and body so I can measure the gap. I’ll most likely buy something like what’s used in the doors to the body.
Like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092ZV8HNK/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B092ZV8HNK&pd_rd_w=TLBAA&pf_rd_p=887084a2-5c34-4113-a4f8-b7947847c308&pd_rd_wg=ACPk4&pf_rd_r=F56GC4SZTK9VA5R4XDX1&pd_rd_r=d2bce13b-7cde-44b7-b7c1-5e16c4743c5e&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyOTJPODdUVk5OTjBRJ mVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMzY1ODEwMkQzSVAzU1VPTE42QyZlbmN yeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDAxMjQyM01IR0o0RFhSSVhZOCZ3aWRnZ XROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbCZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZ kb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Steve, I don’t have a paint booth so I’m doing one piece at a time in the driveway when the weather is cooperative. I want all of the mounting surfaces that bolt to the other parts painted too which is another reason I’m doing each part individually.
A friend recently offered me his 3 car garage shop to paint the body in.
No problem with the paint not matching, it’s a solid color and all comes out of the same gallon can mixed 1:1 with reducer.

[WIS89]

Jim-

Thanks for taking the time to reply; I appreciate it. Color match makes sense the way you describe it! I would still worry, but that's because of my inexperience!

Boy, that three-car garage would be tempting!

Thanks again for the response, and I look forward to watching you finish things up! All the best!

Regards,

Steve

[Gablerent]

Can't it be sent back for a proper replacement without these flaws?

[JimLev]

Can't it be sent back for a proper replacement without these flaws?

I wish it was that easy. Basically none of the fiberglass fits out of the box.
You need to make everything fit by cutting, modifying, shimming, etc.

[Mastertech5]

Hi Jim, I picked up my stage 1 kit on June 10th and have an LS3 coming tomorrow. I've asked this question on other threads and can't seem to get an answer. I see you have the same engine with the power steering. What oil pan did you opt for? Street Rod Jim used a Holley 302-2 pan. It is extremely shallow in the front. I would rather use the 302-1 pan but it is a little deeper in the PS motor area and I was wondering about the clearance. Any suggestions? Thanks.

[JimLev]

I used the oil pan that came on the LS3.
I didn’t mount the PS motor on the bracket FFR said to as the motor would hang down below the pan.
I made an angled bracket to mount the PS motor on the firewall.
I’ll dig up that info and be back.

See post #110 and 113
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26821-JimLev-s-Build/page3

[Mastertech5]

That is quite ingenious. I think I will give it a go. The stock oil pan doesn't have any ground clearance problems? While on that page of your build I saw some answers to some other issues I've researching. I didn't want to spend the money for one of those fancy accessory drive kits. What A.C. compressor did you use and the alternator too. More complete explanation as to your modifications to install these would be a great help. And the crank pulley and damper. My engine is the E-Rod for a manual transmission and comes with the short corvette w/pump and damper pulley set up.

[JimLev]

Ground clearance is whatever you set the coilovers too.
For the alternator I bought an ICT mounting kit that I had to modify as it was for the truck engine that had a longer crank snout.

169416

169417

I changed the pulley to a larger one so I wouldn't exceed the max alt RPM

169418

For the AC compressor I bought a small Sandin and a mounting bracket I also had to modify.

169420

Had to do some trimming on the compressor too. The fit was very tight.
169421

169422

[Mastertech5]

On the alternator, is that the smaller Caddy CTV one or did it come with the bracket kit?

[Mastertech5]

I really appreciate the time you spent helping me out. Extreme thanks! Your car is so similar to mine except the trans. Same size wheels, tires, engine and diff ratio. My diff is used and I rebuilt it with upgrades. I was a GM tech for over 30 years. I have a Tremec TKX for mine.

[JimLev]

Glad to help out. I was going to go with a 6 speed, but my left knee is so so, my other car has a V8 and 6 speed so I went with the 4L65e.
Umm, a GM Tech, I may have to pick your brains in the future.
Spencer MA, been there in the past. I’m originally from Wareham, then moved to Pembroke on the South Shore. In 2016 we moved to NM.
I bought the alternator and the bracket from Summit.
The bracket is for the truck engine, you can see below the harmonic balancer sticks out a lot further than the LS3 one. I shortened the spacers to get the pulleys to align.
Here’s the info.

169426

169427

[Mastertech5]

I'll check them out. May not work with my set up. The truck engines have the furthest away pulleys and mine (corvette) is the closest to the block. I found a vintage air bracket set that mount it low on passenger side. 11 3/4 inches from crank centerline to outside of the compressor. As soon as I get my motor mounts (were not available when I picked up my kit) I'll set it in and measure. I ordered my engine from Summit and it wasn't supposed to ship from GM until Aug 17. I guess they found a dealer in Texas with one willing to sell it so it's coming tomorrow. I told the shipping company when they called to set up delivery that they needed to use a box truck not a 40 foot trailer but they didn't listen. That was yesterday. Driver called and said he couldn't make it down the road that leads to mine. So now it's tomorrow. I told the dispatcher again about the road and she said she'd get a box truck. Fingers crossed.

[Mastertech5]

Oh, by the way about picking my brain. I'm all ears. ASE and GM mastertech the whole time, hence my handle.

[JimLev]

Finally got PO’d about trying to adjust the ride height with the standard Koni coilover that came with the kit. I needed to raise the car 1/2” more than the specified ride height so the running board outer edges wouldn’t scrape going over the berm at the end of driveways.
There is nothing to keep the black threaded tube from turning while you try and turn the adjuster ring on the bottom.
Next to impossible to get at and then try to hold the black tube when they are mounted in the car, no room.
A few days ago I pulled all 4 coilovers, drilled and tapped some holes for set screws to keep the tube from turning.
I bought QA-1 needle bearing thrust washers which helped a lot. I set all 4 up 1/2” higher out of the car, will install them this weekend.

173989

[33fromSD]

Finally got PO’d about trying to adjust the ride height with the standard Koni coilover that came with the kit. I needed to raise the car 1/2” more than the specified ride height so the running board outer edges wouldn’t scrape going over the berm at the end of driveways.
There is nothing to keep the black threaded tube from turning while you try and turn the adjuster ring on the bottom.
Next to impossible to get at and then try to hold the black tube when they are mounted in the car, no room.
A few days ago I pulled all 4 coilovers, drilled and tapped some holes for set screws to keep the tube from turning.
I bought QA-1 needle bearing thrust washers which helped a lot. I set all 4 up 1/2” higher out of the car, will install them this weekend.

173989

Are you using the 8" springs that came with the kit Jim? If yes, I think you have the threaded collar clip in the wrong groove in the shock body. There is a 2nd groove about 2" up from the one your in which is meant for shorter springs 8" & 9").. The upper groove will give you a lot better lift when adjusting the collar. In the upper groove I was able to hold the collar with a channel locks to prevent them from spinning (before I switched to QA1s).

The groove you're in now is for longer springs (10" or 12").

174107

Jim

[JimLev]

Yes, I have the 8” springs, 400Lb in the front and 300lb in the back.
I’m pretty sure the manual showed the clip in the bottom groove for the front shocks and in the upper groove for the rear shocks. I’ll double check it.
The shocks are back in the car. I still need to finish the paint and then it’s time to get it registered.

[33fromSD]

Yes, I have the 8” springs, 400Lb in the front and 300lb in the back.
I’m pretty sure the manual showed the clip in the bottom groove for the front shocks and in the upper groove for the rear shocks. I’ll double check it.
The shocks are back in the car. I still need to finish the paint and then it’s time to get it registered.

Okay, you're raising the front, I missed that. Yes, then you're 100% correct, the front use the lower groove.

Jim

[JimLev]

Finally found some time to paint the roof and then install a thin sheet of wood wrapped with a piece of vinyl for the head liner.
Just need to finish painting the body now. All of the removable parts are now painted.

175053

[JimLev]

Roof is temporarily on to check fit. Hope to have the rest painted in a week or so.

175210 175250

[Mastertech5]

Beautiful Jim! That is one of my maybe colors. Nice to see one to help decide.

[JimLev]

Started to work on getting the back of the body done but then decided I should install the Pete & Jake’s nerf bars now so I don’t need to figure out how everything is going to fit and align after it’s painted.
Had to weld an angle iron frame to mount to the FFR frame, I’ll pull it off tomorrow morning so I can paint it.
The welds aren’t the best, I’m still learning.

175502

Then attached the nerf bars.

175503

[JimLev]

Rounding 3rd base and heading for home, lol.
The body is coming off today, hope to get it painted and back on soon, then it’s time to get it all put back together, aligned, and registered.

175902

[Kamp]

Jim check the pan depth to frame, your pan looks pretty deep, you don't want it lower than the frame.

[JimLev]

Kamp, it’s the stock LS3 aluminum oil pan that came with the engine.
It is a little lower than the frame however I’ve raised the suspension so the edges of the running boards don’t hit the berm at the end of my driveway.
The bottom of the pan is 6” off the ground.

Pulled the body off today and found all the hardware I’ve dropped down the sides over the last 2 years.
Looks like one of the other cars will be spending some time parked out in the driveway.

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[Mastertech5]

Looking good! Seeing how you have an LS like I do, in my GM install instuctions, it says to attach a 12 volt feed from the vehicle to the pink ignition wire in the harness (this is required to enable the proper power-up sequence of the ECM) the 12 volt power source must be constant during crank to ensure the ECM remains powered during engine cranking. This can be routed into the passenger compartment with the accelerator pedal connector and diagnostic link connector.
The 8 gauge constant battery power to the GM fuse box is not the problem. I can't locate this pink wire they are talking about except the supposed output in the bulkhead connector. How did you manage this? If this is an output, wouldn't I need to add a fuse to power this from the ignition switch EFI crank wire in the RF harness? This would be back feeding that circuit.

[JimLev]

The pink wire is in the GM harness that goes to one of the 3 ECU connectors, let me know if you can’t find it. I’ll be in the garage all day today.
It gets connected to the Orange wire from the RF fuse box which is labeled IGN SW, which gets it’s power from the 15A fuse labeled EFI/Coil.
The org wire gets 12v whith the key in run and crank position.

[Mastertech5]

The pink wire is in the GM harness that goes to one of the 3 ECU connectors, let me know if you can’t find it. I’ll be in the garage all day today.
It gets connected to the Orange wire from the RF fuse box which is labeled IGN SW, which gets it’s power from the 15A fuse labeled EFI/Coil.
The org wire gets 12v whith the key in run and crank position.

Is it loose in the harness or do you have to pull it out and splice into it? And about where in the harness? I know it feeds the injectors and coils but there doesn't appear to be a wire sticking out like the fuel pump and cooling fan. In the middle of the instructions is this picture. It seems out of place.
175973.
Or it just an example on using the pink wire in the GM bulkhead connector.

[JimLev]

The elusive pink wire is located.
I was scratching my head for a while and looking thru my pics and the GM LS3 pages.
The pink wire terminates in a connector, see pics. I do remember ordering pins a few years ago so I must have added the pin and wire to connect it to the RF ECU/Coil wire. I’ll be out it the garage shortly to verify.

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[Mastertech5]

I did order the pins and seals for that bulkhead connector too, in anticipation. That was the only place I could see to connect to. You can just post to my build thread so as not take up any more space in yours. Thanks!

[JimLev]

Hope to shoot some primer tomorrow.

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Today’s update.

First coat of primer done. I see a few spots I missed.

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Second coat of primer is done and sanded, Friday’s plan is to paint the dash titanium silver and clear it.
I have most of it masked off and ready to go.

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[JimLev]

Looking in the manual I only see alignment specs for the front wheels. What did you guys set your rear wheels too? I won’t be racing it, just street driving.

Sprayed and cleared the dash yesterday with titanium silver.
Got the body sprayed with 3 coats of base this morning. Hope to do the clear tomorrow morning.

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[RoadRacer]

Looking in the manual I only see alignment specs for the front wheels. What did you guys set your rear wheels too? I won’t be racing it, just street driving.

You must be one of those fancy IRS folks Jim :) For the rest of us we just throw an 8.8" in the back and forget about it ;)

[JimLev]

LOL James,
Yes, once you’ve had IRS you’ll never go back. Mine is an 8.8.

I was surprised the manual only has the 3 specs for the front, nothing for the rear.
Somebody here must have IRS and got it aligned….help!

My dash pic.
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