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JOP33

03-25-2018, 08:38 AM

Tried for a first start again yesterday and all though it did start and ran for about two seconds, I am not calling that my official start. I had to overcome a few things just to get to that point though. The light blue wire in the factory wiring harness that connects to the EFI power only provides 12v through cranking and not at the start position, so the EFI was booting at ignition and then losing power when the key pops back. So I checked the orange wire coming off the harness that was labeled coil or EFI (I had it running to the coil), it is has 12v at the start position and through cranking. I then connected the EFI wire to that wire and currently have a jumper of the I lug on the solenoid going to the coil (will make this more permanent once I can get the engine to stay running). So initially I had only put one gallon of gas in the tank for start up, last weekend when I heard the pump and didn't see leaks I assumed all was well in this area, but when attempting to start it was like it was getting no fuel. I then pulled off the fuel inlet line and to my suprise, it was completely dry. I then pulled of the line at the tank (feeding the fuel pump) and it was dry also. So just out of curiosity I pulled the rubber grommet and vapor tap out of the tank and flashed a light down in there. For whatever reason maybe the angle of how the car is sitting on the lift or something the fuel sock wasn't even slightly submerged in fuel. I ended up having to add an additional gallon (at 2 now) to the tank to get the fuel pump to prime and at that point I went ahead and added two more for safe measures. Once I was at two gallons the fuel pump primed fine with a definite difference in sound. Anyway so after I button all of this back up I tried to start one more time and as mentioned the engine did turn over and ran for about 2-3 seconds and stops. When I try to give it a little gas it seems like it chokes out. I would post a video but I am still trying to figure out how to upload it:confused:. I will contact Engine Factory tomorrow to see if they can provide some guidance as they have been extremely helpful so far.

JOP33

04-11-2018, 06:22 AM

Down But Not Out

Had surgery a week or so ago, so recovery has kept me out of the shop for the time being. Hope to be back at it soon.

HVACMAN

04-11-2018, 10:00 AM

Down But Not Out

Had surgery a week or so ago, so recovery has kept me out of the shop for the time being. Hope to be back at it soon.

Sorry to hear about your surgery. I hope all went well. I had a quadruple cervical fusion last September. The recovery was the longest three weeks of my life. Follow the Doc's orders and don't rush it.

JOP33

06-18-2018, 06:33 AM

Well as mentioned previously, I had surgery almost 3 months ago now and after a few challenges with recovery I am close to getting in some shop time. I actually met with a future builder this weekend as he wanted to take a few pictures and ask some questions about my build so far. Seems very excited and it will be great to have another local builder.

I was able to get out in the shop for a bit this weekend and just clean up the mess I left prior to my surgery. After clean up, I noticed I have a couple leaks...one where the brake cylinders attach to the pedal box and one at the pumpkin seal on the diff. So getting those fixed next weekend will probably be the first order of business. It's good to be back:cool:!

AJT '33

06-18-2018, 09:37 AM

JOP33

07-02-2018, 06:49 AM

Back in the shop this weekend. Back in March I had been able to get the car to start but it would not continue running. The Sniper EFI had a built in fuel pressure gauge but I could never keep it going long enough to get a reading, so I went ahead and installed and old school gauge in line. I was getting about 55 psi which is right at where manufacturer said it should be. The engine was built by Engine Factory, so I decided to shoot them a short video of my attempt and see if they had any advisement. After their techs reviewed my (13 second) video, they said they thought it was a wiring issue to the coil and to place a jumper from the battery + to the coil + to confirm. Low & behold, they were exactly right! The engine cranked right up! Now I just need to trace down the errant wire. Great to have the first start behind me though (and thanks Engine Factory Team).

https://youtu.be/oCDhpgjuDRU

https://youtu.be/7PpQAgZ14Gw

TDSapp

07-02-2018, 10:18 AM

Awesome... Sounds great.

Now to start planning for the go-cart. :-)

What shifter is that?

TxMike64

07-02-2018, 10:49 AM

Awesome! Congrats on the success! That's great the EF guys were able to help with such a short video! Service goes a long way toward winning customers...

donshapansky

07-02-2018, 11:09 AM

Great to see and hear it run, I recall the same feeling when it starts and runs! I hope you are feeling fine now and ready to carry on. All the best Jamie!

duff33

07-02-2018, 11:54 AM

So glad you are back in the garage, the start is a fantastict mildstone

bakerboerne

07-02-2018, 10:28 PM

Jamie - not sure if you are using the Ron Fran wiring harness ... The EFI will need power both during cranking and when key is on, if it is like the GMC PCM. On the Ron Fran harness I think the Red is cranking and the Orange is Key On.
The GMC also has a fuel pump cutoff theft deterrent that has to be disabled... if not the power to the fuel pump is cut off... I am sure the aftermarket EFI does not have that.

JOP33

07-03-2018, 06:21 AM

Thanks guys for the comments and info. I actually reached out to FFR yesterday as the issue that Engine Factory was picking up on in the initial video I had sent them was that as soon as I released the key the engine would quit running. Dan confirmed that for my set-up the Orange EFI/Coil wire on the RF Harness will connect to the Pink wire on the Sniper EFI...the Blue wire on the RF Harness is not used. I think I have them reversed as of right now...will confirm and fix, hopefully eliminating the jumper wire. I then need to clean up all my wiring and heat shield some additional areas, install the ebrake and then I should be pretty close to carting.

JOP33

07-04-2018, 07:43 PM

I was able to confirm my wiring today and to my surprise I actually had the RF Orange wire connected to the Sniper EFI Pink wire as it should be:confused:, so it seems I have a little more investigating to do.

JOP33

07-08-2018, 06:44 PM

So I actually confirmed with Dan at FFR that all I should do with my set up is connect the Sniper EFI Pink wire to the RF Orange wire (which I had correct), but then he said to jump a wire from the RF Orange wire as well to the Coil (+). I have yet to confirm that this does what it needs to but will early this week. I have also been taking this time to go back through the wiring and clean it up a little...slow and tedious process for me, but I am making some headway. I have decided to cover the majority of the wiring in a heat shield I came across at the local store. It is rated for 1100-1200 degrees (F) and seems to be pretty easy to work with. I have had to split it in some areas, but I have just gone back with Stainless High Temp ties.

Pic of Fuel Pressure Gauge installed a few weeks back...
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Heat Shield Sleeve and Stainless ties...
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Heat Shield Sleeve...
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Battery Cables with Heat Shield (Probably overkill in some areas but these wire do run by the exhaust below the aluminum panels)...
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JOP33

07-29-2018, 12:11 PM

Been a few weeks since last post...Still cleaning up wiring, installing heat shielding and installing plugs. Someone (on this forum) once told me no one post pics of wiring because it usually looks like a mess...soooooooo true! I swear I have cut out miles of wires, yet it still looks like a rat's nest! I do, however feel that I am making some progress and hope to be past the wiring portion (for a while at least) in a few weeks.

J

JOP33

08-05-2018, 06:18 PM

I spent several weekends working on the wiring, installing plugs where I just had mechanical terminals, changing some of the routing, shortening wires & installing heat shielding (shortening more wires & re-installing heat shielding). I'm not proud of the work so far and believe me it will get at least one more pass, but I thought I would at least post some pics.

Here's the rats nest...90756

And another...90757

And yes another:confused:...90758

So I have made several passes already to try and reduce the amount of wiring and remove any unused wiring, as mentioned previously it will take at least one more pass to have a solution I can live with, but at least the trans tunnel will fit now...
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Believe me it is a mess under there, but I'll get there!

JOP33

08-10-2018, 08:37 PM

So I made another pass at the wiring today and I am pretty happy with how things turned out. I think it could still use a little trimming, but ultimately I'm ok with it and the trans tunnel fits without suffocating everything. I had originally just used wire terminals on connections until I was able to start the car and verify that there was not going to need to be any major changes. So when I started going back through the wiring (what seems like months ago now), I took as many connections as I could and put Weather Pack Connectors on them. I like the idea of the plugs and they were really easy to use, but when it is all said and done they take up a lot of space.

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I had also been concerned about how close my shifter was to the area where the dash will extend down, so I went ahead and moved the shifter to the furthest back position and gained about two inches. I think I am alright now. In Park, will be the closest position to the dash and then when shifted into Drive, the shifter comes back about another two inches.

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Also did a trial fit on the seats today. Without the waterfall in I don't really know how much room I have to go back. I'll have to figure something out there.

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I have also made a cut in the trans tunnel on the driver side to allow me to flex the fiberglass in some and give a little more pedal room. The plan is to push it in about half an inch and re-glass. I haven't decided yet whether I am going to modify the "bulged" area at the top of the trans tunnel. I hope to get to the fiberglass work on the tunnel tomorrow or Sunday.

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All in all it was a good day.

JOP33

08-18-2018, 10:51 AM

I been able to work on a few things this week. First, I started doing a little fiberglass work on the Trans Tunnel. I wanted to taper the driver's side of the tunnel in just a bit to gain a little more pedal room. All in all I think I gain closed to an inch (probably not worth all the work, but it is tight down there). I don't know how you guys with the clutch pedals manage it. This was my first attempt at glass work in a very long time, so I thought Trans Tunnel might be a good place to start. After all it's going to be covered with heat shield and dynamat when it's all done...

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It was actually quite a mess and I ended up with several air bubbles that I later had to grind down and re-glass...

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From the backside you can see how I notched the tunnel keeping just enough in tack to allow me to flex the area I wanted to taper...

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Then I hit it with the grinder again and placed a second coat of glass on just where I had cut...

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I plan on going back one more time with full sheet over the entire area.

JOP33

08-18-2018, 10:59 AM

I also put together the E-brake assembly. I haven't installed it in the car yet, but I think there is a discrepancy between how they tell you to build it up and some of the pictures show...

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I had also made a hose bracket at work to help keep one of the wire looms off the exhaust pipes. I designed it out of stainless steel and so that I could just bend the flange to allow the loom to cradle in the bracket and then you just bend the flange back around it. It seemed to work pretty good...

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JOP33

08-18-2018, 11:02 AM

I am still toying around with ideas on wheels too. I really like the look of these wheels...

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But I have been playing around with paint on the computer and was thinking of maybe having them powder coated something like this...

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Still plenty of time to decide I guess.

1932

08-18-2018, 11:37 AM

You need to look at brake handle, it is bad for passengers.

duff33

08-18-2018, 04:53 PM

Becarefull when you narrow up the trans tunnel that the shifter linkage/rod does not rub and bind. I did the same but had to cut a section out and cover with sheet aluminum.

JOP33

08-19-2018, 10:52 AM

Becarefull when you narrow up the trans tunnel that the shifter linkage/rod does not rub and bind. I did the same but had to cut a section out and cover with sheet aluminum.

Thanks duff33...it was definitely worth a double-check, but I think I have plenty of clearance.

JOP33

08-19-2018, 10:56 AM

You need to look at brake handle, it is bad for passengers.

1932 - Can you elaborate on this a little more? I have ridden in a 33' (as a passenger) with the e-brake in the same position and it didn't seem too obtrusive, but I would love to hear some additional feedback or suggestions!

Thanks!

JOP33

08-19-2018, 11:56 AM

Back at it this morning...working on the Trans Tunnel Tunnel :confused:...
My thoughts are that I will mount some Neoprene (Rubber) material where I have had to make cutouts to help weather proof those areas.

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E-Brake & Accelerator Pedal are next!

1932

08-19-2018, 11:25 PM

I am going to make a new handle that is back and over to med tunnel. My riders do not like it.

JOP33

08-26-2018, 09:34 AM

Another couple good days in the shop...:cool:

After getting the trans tunnel cleaned up pretty good, I went ahead and "placed" the seats and waterfall just to get an idea of how tight things might be before installing the e-brake...

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I am also going to fab a false foot plate for the passenger side floor board to cover the auxillary fuse block I added against the firewall. In retrospect, it was probably overkill, but now any of my accessories I might add can run directly to this fuse block...

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I started prepping to install the accelerator pedal as well. Although there doesn't seem to be anything wrong with the set-up that FFR provides in this area I opted to go with a third party upgrade.

There is a billet aluminum cover plate that installs from the engine compartment in this area...

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And then the pedal installs from inside the passenger compartment...

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But first I had to prep the firewall since I had to drill a 1-3/4" hole through it to accept the pedal support (I was not looking forward to drilling this hole and actually had a buddy come over and help me out with this)...

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Also took the steering wheel off (something I should have done along time ago...I don't know how many times I have hit my head on that thing during wiring:mad:) and covered the column...

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I had to trim the flange on the tunnel a bit...

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And covered the billet pieces...

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JOP33

08-26-2018, 09:37 AM

All in all I was pretty happy with the way things turned out after we were done. I still need to mount the throttle cable (also an upgrade) though...

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I actually modeled the set-up (dimensionally) off the current set-up on the car I drive now. And I actually like the pedal so much I am just about to order a matching brake pedal. I will need to fab a mounting plate but I think it should be a simple mod :rolleyes:.

JOP33

08-26-2018, 09:57 AM

Next, I started working on the E-brake. I drilled the 5/16" hole from the underside of the rear mounting flange...

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Once I had that hole drilled, I marked where the trans tunnel and aluminum floor plate would need to be modified for clearance and cut them both...

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I temporarily installed the rear bracket as I thought there might be a few more modifications required on the aluminum (there was)...

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Then I installed the rear bracket again, this time I took it off the E-brake assembly to make it a little easier to install. I also went ahead and drilled the 5/16" hole for the front bracket too. This hole was a little more challenging as it goes through the entire chassis tube below. This is one of those cases where FFR just provides you the extra hardware but makes no mention of why it is there in the manual (there is a longer carriage bolt included for the front attachment). I started by drilling a smaller hole first through the entire tube from the trans tunnel side and then opened up to 5/16"...

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Then I installed the front bracket, leaving both slightly loose for adjustment...

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Here is a view of the nuts from the underside location...

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And then finally here is the E-brake installed...

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Sorry, I had an issue with the pics uploading this morning. Hoping it is fixed now. Thanks to all for letting me know.

JOP33

08-26-2018, 10:07 AM

JOP33

08-26-2018, 10:25 AM

I would also appreciate some feedback from some of the more experienced or further along builders about a "ballpark" location on the waterfall. I am trying to get a sense of where the seats will actually end up and I do know that the final dimension from the dash to the waterfall is critical but does someone have some information regarding an approximate location on the waterfall in relation to the door hinge attachment area or the crossbar that runs behind the tank? I have placed pics below just for reference...

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Thank you in advance!

JOP33

08-26-2018, 05:00 PM

At the advisement of several builders and this forum, I have tried to take heat & sound protection pretty seriously (and in some cases I may have even over done it). With that being said today I did purchase some heat shielding material to wrap the mufflers specifically. I was able to get that on today...

I took measurements on the stock FFR mufflers...

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The material I purchased came in a roll 24" x 42" with (4) stainless steel clamps. I believe this kit was actually intended for (1) individual muffler, but I decided I would just cut it to length and then cut it in half and just cover the top portions of the mufflers and around the radii...

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I was actually pretty impressed with how the material handled, cut and installed with the straps, I'll have to wait to comment on how it actually performs though...

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AJT '33

08-27-2018, 07:38 AM

I placed mine all up on the floor to alleviate any heat transfer into the floor pan.
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TxMike64

08-27-2018, 09:30 AM

What is that material?

JOP33

08-27-2018, 09:52 AM

I placed mine all up on the floor to alleviate any heat transfer into the floor pan.
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I have the Lizard Skin on the bottom of the aluminum and then I will be applying a self adhesive heat shield + FFR pre-cut heat shield and sound deadener on the top of the aluminum.

TDSapp

08-27-2018, 10:11 AM

I have the Lizard Skin on the bottom of the aluminum and then I will be applying a self adhesive heat shield + FFR pre-cut heat shield and sound deadener on the top of the aluminum.

I am also planning on wrapping my muffler. Like you I also sprayed Lizard Skin sound control and ceramic insulation on the bottom of my floor pan. But I went more overboard than you because I also sprayed it on top of the floor pans as well. I also have the sound deadening mat and head shield from FFR as well.

Here is hoping that going overboard pays off and we don't have to worry about heat in the cars.

TxMike64

08-27-2018, 10:17 AM

JOP33

08-28-2018, 06:16 AM

Are yall also using the kick filler panels and hinge/waterfall filler panels from KVC or something similar?

All this work to insulate for heat - I can't imagine it would be any worse than an air-cooled motorcycle. I could see the need for heat insulation, but I chuckle when yall talk about sound insulation on a fiberglass open-top car, but I guess if you're building a coupe with A/C these are bigger concerns.

I have seen these products but at this point have not purchased them. In my case, with the Roadster/Coupe, that is my exact concern with keeping the passenger compartment cool...as you know, we don't need any additional help heating up this area here in Texas :cool:.

Thanks

JOP33

08-28-2018, 06:18 AM

What is that material?

Mike - I sent you a PM on this product.

JOP33

08-28-2018, 06:22 AM

I started to connect the E-brake cables below but ran into a snag. I am about 2-1/2" shy of being able to make that connection. I see in the manual where they talk about installing the Wilwood spacer if you are using their brakes. This spacer should give me the length I need, however I don't remember receiving these or inventorying them. I guess worst case I will just cut some pieces at work. They are just slotted brackets with holes on either side (but I will check with FFR first)...

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Just as a follow up on this. We all seem to take our frustrations out on FFR occasionally as we hit some walls (I know I have at least). I sent an email about the missing spacers to Tony & Dan yesterday morning and by noon I had a Fedex Tracking number. So far my experiences & support by Factory Five have been awesome! Thanks guys!

Tampa33Build

08-28-2018, 11:15 AM

I had the same issue with missing e-brake spacers. Emailed Dan and they were in the mail that day. FFR support has been great.

HVACMAN

08-28-2018, 11:39 AM

Are yall also using the kick filler panels and hinge/waterfall filler panels from KVC or something similar?

All this work to insulate for heat - I can't imagine it would be any worse than an air-cooled motorcycle. I could see the need for heat insulation, but I chuckle when yall talk about sound insulation on a fiberglass open-top car, but I guess if you're building a coupe with A/C these are bigger concerns.

I purchased both but I have only installed the front panels so far. They make a perfect platform to mount things to, like the accelerator pedal, ECM, etc., and an extra heat shield. 9212392124I like them a lot and like everything Tim sells they fit perfectly.

JOP33

09-02-2018, 02:18 PM

Took some time yesterday just to clean up the shop a little. I had tools laying everywhere and it was getting to the point that I couldn't find what I needed when I needed it. I have a few aluminum brackets and a cover panel that I will need to make, so I picked up a hand brake at the local "economical" tool store yesterday. I mounted it to a table and made a few mods to it and I think it will do what I need it to. Not bad for $60...

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I also received the brake brackets from FFR (they actually sent two sets :confused:) and so I was able to connect the e-brake as well...

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Early on the build I had purchased some Exhaust Wrap not knowing whether I would use it or not. This morning I decided I would go ahead and install it on from the collector on the headers back to the muffler. I used the 2" wrap and it was ok to work with but if I had it to do over again I would probably go with the 1" as I think it would be easier to work around the curves with. I let is soak in water for just a few minutes before installing so it would be a little more pliable...

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Going back out now to finish the remainder.

JOP33

09-03-2018, 06:33 PM

Little bit of a rainy day today, so I thought I'd crank the radio a little and do some "relaxing" work. I purchased a box of 12" x 23" x .065" thick heat/sound deadener to put on the trans tunnel and the aluminum (I am also putting in the FFR Heat/Sound deadener as well). I cleaned up the left and right side trans tunnel (I had cut mine in half) and the trans tunnel cover with just some 80 grit and scotch brite. There probably wasn't a need to do this but I wanted to knock down some of the high points on the glass work I had done earlier too. This product was really easy to work with, it cut with a utility knife and I did break down and buy the wooden roller which was extremely useful too. All in all it took a little less than 3-1/2 sheets for me to cover the entire trans tunnel and cover.

I started with the cover as I thought it would be easier to work on (by the way I have never installed this material before, it will show in the pics)...

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I didn't think it turned out too bad...

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Next was the driver's side tunnel (I am glad I was able to cover my glass work :p)...

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Make sure when you are working with this stuff that you save every little piece until you have finished. I bet I was able to use about 98% of my sheets...

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The compound curves of the trans tunnel were a little more challenging but still not too bad...

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Then finally installed...

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And then all installed...

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All in all things went pretty well. I ended up using 1/4-20 rivnuts on the trans tunnel sides to connect the cover and that was actually the greatest challenge :confused:. I don't know why I struggle using the rivet tool FFR provided when I install rivnuts. I must be setting something up wrong. I consider myself to be someone of average strength and it always takes everything I have to get those rivnuts installed!

One last thing on the Heat/Sound barrier, it is actually a pretty cool looking material. I just wonder if anyone had considered covering the entire body of a vehicle in this stuff? It would definitely add a considerable amount of weight. Who knows I may pass on the Cowboy theme and go for the Apollo 13 look instead...:rolleyes:...Just kiddin'!

TxMike64

09-04-2018, 02:55 PM

Looks good!

JOP33

09-06-2018, 06:07 AM

I purchased a replacement brake pedal to match the accelerator pedal I had installed, but I didn't really care for the black Wilwood E-Coat finish on the pedal lever. So I took to work and had them blast the e-coat off the pedal lever and then I proceeded to drill and tap for the 1/2-20 set screw that allows you to attach the pedal. The pilot hole was no issue, however the bit for the tap was a little longer and I didn't have enough throw in my small press to use the same set up, so I ended up red-necking it as you can see in the pics. In the end, I think it came out looking alright. The rough surface from the blast is a little more aggressive than I had intended, but I prefer the aluminum look as opposed to the black. Since I am running an automatic and have the extra clutch pedal lever, I am going to cut both pedals at the same location (high up) and then tig them back together with a slight offset toward the driver side. This will give just a little more room between the accelerator pedal and brake pedal...

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Pilot hole...
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Kids don't try this at home...
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And finally...
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It's not the billet aluminum polished finish like the accelerator pedal, but I think I'll stick with it...unless I get a little more adventuresome and try and polish it...:rolleyes:.

JOP33

09-08-2018, 11:46 AM

Started out the morning working on the trans tunnel again. I installed the rivnuts in the aluminum floor panels so that I could remove the trans tunnel if need be later...

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And then here with it installed...

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JOP33

09-09-2018, 11:50 AM

The cast aluminum finish of the brake pedal vs. the polished billet finish of the throttle pedal started eating at me at a little. So while I still had the brake pedal disassembled I went ahead and polished it the best I could and I ended up pretty happy with the results. It's not quite as shiny as the throttle pedal, but it's better than the cast aluminum look...

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After getting the brake pedal re-installed, I went ahead and installed the throttle cable...

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The braided hose cover was going to rub against the valve cover, so I put some clear hose over the braided hose just in the area that it would rub...

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And then the brake pedal and throttle pedal installed...

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JOP33

09-10-2018, 06:39 AM

I was able to cover the drivers side floor pan last night with with heat shield. I opted to leave the pans in the vehicle to allow me to cut the reliefs required for the other overlapping panels. When I am all done, I will take them out and drill from the back side for the holes...

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JOP33

09-11-2018, 05:48 AM

Over the last few weeks I had noticed some Transmission Fluid around the tail shaft of the Transmission. After wiping it dry several times now, I have confirmed with the supplier that the Output Shaft Seal will need to be replaced. Never done this before (and really the main reason I ordered Engine & Trans turnkey) but I understand things happen. So it is my understanding that I will just need to remove the driveshaft, pull the seal & replace with the new one...:mad:...

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Two weeks later...

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JOP33

09-11-2018, 07:36 PM

Not much time out in the shop tonight, but I was able to complete the heat/sound shield on the floor pans...

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The plan now is to probably go ahead and install the FFR pre-cut heat shield (which thinking back now I should have used as templates to cut the other heat shielding...:p) on the floor pan as well. It looks to be a little more durable. I will probably wait for now on the pre-cut sound deadener. I remove all the aluminum this weekend and get to the areas I haven't covered then. May even venture into changing out the trans seal.

JOP33

09-16-2018, 04:08 PM

The plan today was to try and get the FFR heat shielding installed and remove all the aluminum panels to allow for a little better access to remove the driveshaft and replace the ouput shaft seal. A pretty aggressive plan to begin with, but I did have a little (very little) help in the shop today...

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Here is FFR pre-cut heat shield kit...

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I had first thought that I should have used these pieces as templates for the other heat shielding that I had already installed, but after working with these pieces I am glad I didn't. They are easy to work with, but in some areas they don't seem to have been cut correctly. I actually ended up going back with some duct tape in some areas and this material seems to really "flow" in the heat, so I went ahead and put some duct tape on the edges to keep it from getting too messy as I am sure I will have this panels in and out a few more times...

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Afterwards I went back and re-drilled the attachment holes and marked them with a wax pencil so they would be a little more visible...

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My intent was to wait on the sound deadener, however there were a couple places that I went ahead installed it...

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JOP33

09-16-2018, 04:17 PM

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This is all of the aluminum covered and out of the car...

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I hope to be able to get to the trans seal later this week...

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But in the mean time I did pull the trigger on wheels & tires...

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JimLev

09-16-2018, 08:34 PM

Looks good. You may want to wrap the pipe leaving the muffler too. The seat will be right above those pipes.

JOP33

09-16-2018, 08:44 PM

Thanks Jim, will probably do that before re-installing aluminum. I had also thought about putting in a heat shield between the muffler and the aluminum floor pan, but with this current set-up there just isn't any room. An aluminum plate between would essentially just remove any airspace between the two.

JOP33

09-21-2018, 02:46 PM

So as previously mentioned, I had an Output Shaft Seal leak on my AOD Transmission. I had noticed it leaking over the course of the last few weeks. I finally got the seal and dove into the removal and replacement of it. By far, the most difficult thing was getting the driveshaft back in. I swear that almost every attempt of trying to get it past the chassis in the rear and the loop up front ended up with me being just 1/8" to a 1/4" away from it going in...:mad:. I was finally able to twist the front yoke and rotate as I was inserting it in past the loop meanwhile flipping and rotating the rear flange at the same time. Definitely could have used an extra set of hands on this one, but when it was all said and done...it was done. It didn't make things any easier that everything was painted as well.

Still leaking as of this morning...
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New Seal installed looks a little more functional...
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Finally, driveshaft back in place...
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The old seal...
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I also got a call about the tires and wheels today too...They were in, so like any other Hot Rod builder, I couldn't wait to see them on the car...

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I think I will probably need some spacers as I haven't set the ride height yet, but I am hoping nothing too problematic. I played around with some different ideas as far as wheels go, but I just couldn't bring myself to spending $1000 a wheel...:p. So I opted for the Cragars and cut my wheel & tire budget by 50%. Momma's happy & Daddy too...
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Tires & wheels will only stay on for a day or two, then rollers are back on. There's a few things I want to finish up while I have the aluminum out and then I hope to have it back in by the end of the weekend. I then need to check out all the gauges and make sure the fan engages when it is suppose to. Then I have a punch list I'll work through prior to go-karting.

RoadRacer

09-22-2018, 03:25 PM

nice looking wheels and tires!

JOP33

09-22-2018, 04:31 PM

nice looking wheels and tires!

Thanks! I went with Cragar 18" x 8" in the front and 20" x 10" in the back...for tires I opted for Michelin High Performance and was out the door with mounting, balancing and locking lugs for less than $2200. I thought that was a pretty good deal. As mentioned earlier, I am probably going to need some spacers, but I am happy with my choice so far.

JOP33

09-22-2018, 04:50 PM

Just got a few small things done in the shop today. Since I had taken the E-brake out with the aluminum flooring, I decided to clean up the flash rust that had accumulated on the surface and go ahead and hit it with some paint. This was more about just protecting the surface a little than aesthetics, so I just used some Krylon "rattle can" prime/paint. I cleaned up the laser tabs that were still on the parts from FFR and then knocked off the oxidation on the edge of the parts from the laser cut so that the paint would adhere with some green Scotchbrite.

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I'll try to get it re-assembled tomorrow.

While I was at it I went ahead and shot some paint on my home made fuel vapor canister...

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JOP33

09-22-2018, 04:59 PM

Also took Jim's advice and wrapped the exhaust coming out of the muffler and extending under the seat. This is the second time I have used this product on the car and it is very workable. I soak it in water before wrapping so I can stretch it good and tight around the pipes...

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I purchased some thin gasket material from McMaster Carr that I am going to try and attach in the gap around the firewall and transmission housing. I don't know exactly how I am going to attach it just yet (hook & loop or maybe just sandwich in between the trans cover and the firewall with some screws), but I thought it may help keep some dust and trash from getting up into that area. I'll post additional pics if I get it figured out...:confused:...

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JOP33

09-23-2018, 07:57 PM

So much like my Cowboys Offense this evening, my productivity today was a little less than impressive! I was able to get the E-brake re-assembled (not back in the car yet, but it's back together). Then I also needed to get some heat shielding and sound deadener against the firewall behind were I had placed an auxillary fuse block in the passenger's side floor board. I also took the time to get the measurements for the final "fuse block" cabinet as well as a cover. I drew it up in CAD and hope to get it cut and formed this week. I put the driver's side floor pan back in the car and started attaching it with the 10-32 pan head screws. I am sure this will not be the final time for this to go in, but I did want to make sure that all the holes still lined up and as I tightened them down I took the time to clean up some of the excess "tar" that was being pressed out. As stated earlier, nothing to grand today, but hope to make some more progress this week and I am also hopeful that the weather will be nice for the big Good Guys Show this weekend...Looking forward to seeing many locals out there and hopefully a few 33's!

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Fuse Block Cabinet (white) & Cover (yellow)...
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wrp

09-24-2018, 06:05 AM

Are yall also using the kick filler panels and hinge/waterfall filler panels from KVC or something similar?

All this work to insulate for heat - I can't imagine it would be any worse than an air-cooled motorcycle. I could see the need for heat insulation, but I chuckle when yall talk about sound insulation on a fiberglass open-top car, but I guess if you're building a coupe with A/C these are bigger concerns.I have the KVC panels, they add a nice touch. These are not the finished look, trying to decide on the anodized fasteners or the upholstered ones. and the entire effect is much better than this initial rough in. These things cover a lot of unfitted looking area that is clearly visible. One added bonus I have considered is putting a little pull out vent on each to warm feet in the winter.

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JOP33

10-08-2018, 07:52 AM

So I was able to get the Auxilliary Fuse Block Cabinet fabbed and installed it this weekend...

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JOP33

10-08-2018, 07:59 AM

Also replaced the floor pans. I will offer my opinion on this too...if I had this to do over, I would wait until all aluminum panels were covered in the sound/heat protection before drilling any holes in the chassis. I had several instances that due to the change in fit up from either the Lizard Skin or the FFR Sound/Heat Shield, I either had to shave material away or make adjustments for the fit to work...

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Hope to be go carting in the next few weeks...HOPE :rolleyes:.

JOP33

10-13-2018, 11:58 AM

I was able to get a few small things done this morning. My homemade fuel vapor canister has just been hanging from some zip ties, so I decided to do something a little more permanent and rigid with it. I ended up just using zinc plated conduit hangers and attached it to the back wall of the passenger compartment. I sealed the top connection on the pvc but left the bottom loose so that the charcoal filters could be replaced at a later date if needed...

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I also wanted to get the transmission tunnel finally attached to the firewall (were I could), so since I had used 10-32 screws to attach the firewall, I purchased some 10-32 rivnuts. I ended up installing the rivnuts on the trans tunnel and then drilling thru the firewall :( for the screws. It ended up working out pretty well, but I hate when I have to drill thru the firewall (since it has already been coated). Since the gas and brake pedals were already installed a came up with set-up to allow me to drill the firewall in a confined space...

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JOP33

10-13-2018, 12:02 PM

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I'll try to get the steering wheel back on and then I need to adjust the TV cable and then start running through the checklist to prep for Go Karting!

JOP33

10-15-2018, 06:42 AM

So, the horn contact in the Steering Wheel adapter had been damaged (possibly when I initially installed it, but I can't be certain), meaning that I couldn't just re-attach the Steering Wheel and move forward...I must remove the adapter and fix the contact on the horn wire. A little shocked when I realized that there are NO threaded holes in the adapter (except the small ones to attach the actual Steering Wheel) to all for a puller. I attached the Steering Wheel back on to the adapter and tried rocking it back to and fro from the 3 and 9 o'clock position...no luck. I then tried tapping the Steering Wheel spokes from behind with a dead blow hammer...still nothing. At that point, I broke down and went to the local low-budget tooling store and purchased the most expensive Steering Wheel puller they had ($34), as I wasn't sure what configuration I would need to pull this thing off. Once I got home with it, it became clear to me that this one was not going to work, so back to the store I went. This time I purchased the cheapest puller they had ($14) made more for hub, pulleys, etc., and headed back to the house. Well, not actually to the house just yet, I also had to stop at the local more high dollar hardware store as I knew that since there were no threaded holes in the adapter the only place I could grab it from would be the Steering Wheel spokes themselves :(...and this would require some nuts to put on the 5/16 bolts supplied with the puller. So after getting home I spent the next half hour coming up with a configuration of bolts to nuts to washers that would allow me to grab the spokes for pulling. All I had to do now was tighten the center lug down and hop and pray I didn't bend the spokes...and it worked (with minimal damage to the back side of the Wheel). After removing the adapter the plastic fitting had to come off so I could verify what was wrong with the connector. This was done by removing the snap ring and allowing the spring to POP it the rest of the way up. BTW, when and if you have to pull or remove your Steering Wheel leave the nut holding it on threaded on the stud just a few turns, this will keep it from hit you when you finally are able to pull it off. Once all of this was off, I was able to determine that the wire had just pulled out of the small round contact that sits in the plastic piece. After soldering this back on, I replaced the plastic piece (I had marked it previously with a sharpie so I could get it back to the same position), put the snap ring on and used a socket to tap it back down, re-installed the adapter (I used some anti-seize this time) and then the Steering Wheel...

Adapter stuck on...
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Puller I ended up using...
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Plastic piece that was held on with a snap-ring...
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Steering Wheel, wire & cover...
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Finally re-attached...
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JOP33

10-15-2018, 07:02 AM

I also was going to go ahead and mount the seats to the floor and chassis today. I had opted to not use the Simpson harness that FFR provides with the kit (my lack of patience overrode my need for safety), so instead I just picked up some lap belts from the local top of the mountain store and installed them prior to the seats going in...
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I placed both seats in the car and then marked where the tubing was with a wax pencil and then used a sharpie to mark where the tubes on the seat crossed the tubes on the chassis, this is where I ended up drilling the (4) holes...
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I used an 1/8" bit (like the manual tells you to) until I broke it and then went a littler larger. I set a drill stop on the bit to about 1-3/4" so I wouldn't go too deep. Once I was through the seat tubes, floor and chassis tubes, I went back with a larger bit to allow for clearance for the seat hardware supplied in the kit. The yellow circles mark the holes for the seat...
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Re-installed the seat and checked the belts for fit...
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JOP33

10-19-2018, 06:39 AM

Getting close to go karting (probably next weekend), just have a few things to work on and tighten up. Need to confirm that the fan cuts in when it should. My thought on this (since it is controlled by the EFI) is that I will go into the EFI setting and change the cut in to 100 degrees, so that if it doesn't work the temperature is not so high that it will damage the engine. In theory this all sounds good to me, but I would appreciate some feedback here. Like to have a backup plan as well. How do most builders handle checking the fan engagement at proper temperature without chancing that it may not engage?

Thanks

rychi1

10-19-2018, 08:09 AM

First make sure that the front harness that runs to the fan is plugged in to the main harness.

I have a different EFI, but I would guess yours has a similar setting, in the handheld pull up the gauges. You should be able to monitor the coolant temp. So once you start your engine you can watch the temp climb toward whatever temp you have set it to engage and if it doesn't then you can shut off the engine and check the problem. The good news is that even if it doesn't engage, it will take a while before the engine will over heat if you are just idling so you have a pretty long safety window. You can also run power directly to the fan if you just want to confirm that the fan works.

1932

10-19-2018, 12:50 PM

Let it run and check that fan comes on before you take off, no big deal!

JOP33

10-19-2018, 12:55 PM

Guys, I appreciate ALL of the feedback! Thanks again. :D

JOP33

10-20-2018, 01:04 PM

I had put off actually mounting the exhaust hangers at the back of the vehicle, but today I went ahead and did that...

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While I was mounting the hangers I noticed that the tube that I used for my differential vent had actually collapse on itself, so I just cut it to minimum length required to grab the barbs on both fittings and just left it at that...

95863

I had been looking at some heat shields for starters, but hadn't really seen anything I felt confident would fit without some modification. So I just took some of the leftover exhaust wrap I had laying around and cut a piece to fit. I used the stainless exhaust ties to attach around the starter...

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JOP33

10-21-2018, 02:42 PM

I worked on reducing the amount of zip ties I have holding lines and hoses onto the chassis today (specifically in the rear end area). Went with something a little more permanent but still need some larger insulated clips to hold the fuel line and return...

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I was also able to set the TV Pressure for the automatic transmission as well. With this completed, I feel I am well on my way to be able to go kart (maybe) next weekend. I have to go through the checklist, check for tightness and torque on everything and top off fluids, but I'm going to try for next weekend!

95951

JOP33

10-25-2018, 06:26 AM

Thought I would be able to go cart this weekend, but after adding a few items to FF's Checklist I'm almost certain it will need to be the following weekend...If you see anything that might need to be added, let me know.

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duff33

10-25-2018, 08:31 AM

Nice attention to detail, fantastic job !!!!

JOP33

10-26-2018, 07:33 AM

Last night I worked on getting the ride height set (for now). Dan at FFR confirmed that they suggest 4.5" at the front of the chassis box and 5.0" at the rear of the chassis box (where the tubing starts trailing up and in behind the rear wheel). My initial measurements were 6.625" on all corners. I have the Silver, Dual Adjustable Koni's, so all of the shocks are mounted with the springs and spring hats to the sky (top of the car). First, I lifted the vehicle to full droop, then to lower the car a bit, I backed the retaining ring off some (clockwise) then followed by doing the same to the lower spring seat. I worked the fronts sets together, turning each (2) full turns at a time (which seemed to be the equivalent of ~.250"). Every (2) turns I would slowly lower the car back down allowing full weight on the suspension, I would then bounce each corner a bit and then roll the vehicle forward and back about two feet, then re-measure the height. One note here, in my case the lift made fairly easy work of this, as you turn the the lower spring seats, at some point you may have some gap in the spring and the seat (at full droop or without any weight on the vehicle), so you should definitely make sure you have the springs zip tied at the top and then SLOWLY allow the weight of the vehicle to come back on the springs as when the springs re-seat they tend to POP back in place, so use extreme caution and take this step slowly. Once I reached 5.250" on the fronts (I believe the heights that FFR suggest are subjective based on tire size, etc.) .750" higher than that suggest by FFR, I moved back to the rear of the vehicle. You wouldn't think that 1.375" would make that much difference in the look of the vehicle...strike that, as I know that MANY of you are EXTREMELY familiar with setting up ride heights on vehicles, so let me just say that I would have never thought 1.375" would make that much of a difference in the look of the vehicle. I want a slight rake look from front to back, but in all honesty, I will probably raise the front up a .250" as I am extremely concerned about our roads, I can't imagine going down to 4.500". Anyway, I applied the same practice to the rear of the vehicle, taking it down to 6.125". Re-measured the fronts and tightened all retaining rings. Will attempt a self alignment this weekend with the guidance of Dan Ruth's Dangerous Curves.

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AJT '33

10-26-2018, 08:58 AM

JOP33

10-26-2018, 10:13 AM

Can you provide your bolt to bolt measurements as well as the diameter of your tires? Your Koni's are way different than what I received and I really like yours better, did you get those from FFR or did you buy replacements? If you bought replacements or not, can you provide the model numbers as the ones I have seem to be maxed out and I can't even get close to the numbers you have for a ride height. I really could use the extra height for mine, the roads here suck so the more adjustment, the better. Much appreciated!
These are what mine look like and they are about 15.5" from bolt to bolt on the back when on the lift. 96353

These are the upgrades offered through FFR (KONI - 4-Link, Double Adjustable Front & Rear Solid Axle Shocks & Springs), I will get you bolt to bolt dimensions tonight. I am running 245/35-18 in the front with an OD of 24.75" and 285/35-20 in the rear with an OD of 27.85".

HTH

rychi1

10-26-2018, 10:46 AM

I used the Dan Ruth alignment method and it worked extremely well for me. Car has tracked nice and straight for the go-kart phase and it wasn't really that hard to do. I will have it professionally done when I get ready for it to actually get on the road, but so far it has worked well.

JOP33

10-26-2018, 10:54 AM

AJT '33

10-26-2018, 12:19 PM

These are the upgrades offered through FFR (KONI - 4-Link, Double Adjustable Front & Rear Solid Axle Shocks & Springs), I will get you bolt to bolt dimensions tonight. I am running 245/35-18 in the front with an OD of 24.75" and 285/35-20 in the rear with an OD of 27.85".

I Have the 2015 IRS rear end so i'll have to ask to see if this will work with that, the fronts should though. It will be interesting to see if possible. TY!!

JOP33

10-26-2018, 12:20 PM

The bolt to bolt dimension (as the car sits under weight) is Front 13-5/8" and Rear 15-5/8".

JOP33

10-28-2018, 06:51 PM

I went ahead and adjusted the Extension and Compression settings for the DA Koni's yesterday. I had come across another forum that suggested that (4) Clicks and (7) swipes were good starting points for most cars. Looking back, logically what I am about to tell you should have hit me earlier on, but it didn't (shame on me), so for whatever application or shock you are using just try to apply a little logic to your install as I missed this on mine. The Dual Action Koni's are the upgraded shocks offered by FFR. There is a "swipe" setting at the top for Extension and "turn" setting at the bottom for Compression. When you are installing your shocks (again whatever brand you may be running), please pay close attention to the location of these adjustments and plan for them accordingly. Meaning, face them in the direction that gives you the most room and easiest access (also note that I am not talking about the shocks themselves or the spring location to the top or bottom, but specifically the direction that any adjustment knobs, screws, etc. may face). On DA Koni's, the swipe setting is essentially (4) very small holes that are on a pin situated 90 degrees from each other. They appear at the top of the shock and can only be seen through a 90 degree slot or window on the side of the cap...

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So one swipe is equal to placing a 3/32" allen head wrench or screwdriver in one hole and swiping it a complete 90 degrees the other direction...simple enough! However, with direction that I placed mine, my access was extremely limited and after fabricating a custom allen head wrench small enough to access where I needed to, it only took me 3 hours to adjust the setting on the top of the four shocks. The lower turn settings were not nearly as difficult to access, but were still somewhat of a pain due to the orientation I picked. Now for most builders, this would probably be something that you would pay attention to and would orient the shock accordingly whether the manual suggested you do it or not. However, I am not an experienced builder and I first will take my shots for being an idiot and not thinking about this logically as I was installing the shocks (shame on me), but it seems like something that could have easily been noted in the FFR 33' Manual...(ie. if you are installing an adjustable set of shocks be sure to orientate the access points in an area to allow access). So I am off my soapbox on this, as it was not the end of the world and all is well. If I ever have to change the shocks out I will definitely rotate them to allow for better access...whew, I feel much better now!

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In this picture (if I had installed them the way I should have) you would be looking at the access windows to the top of the shocks, but since I turned them to toward the fan, you only see the back of the cap.

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JOP33

11-03-2018, 09:47 AM

So I have been working on getting my alignment done this week. As I had mentioned previously, I was going to try Dan Ruth's String Method to try and get things close enough for Carting. You can get the full details by searching for "33 Alignment" on Google or "Dangerous Curves" on the other forum (I suggest not searching for Dangerous Curves on Google...:p). Anyway, I am not going to go into great detail on the alignment, but just wanted to cover a few interesting points and possible thorns that I came across. I want to thank Dan Ruth for his assistance through this as I must of had to email him (4) times during this process to get it completed.

I'll first note that I had previously set my Ride Height to 5.250" in the Front and 6.125" even though FFR and Dan both advised 4.500" in the Front and 5.000" in the Rear. My thoughts on this is that I didn't won't to trash my front end (specifically the grill) on some of the terrible roads we have around here. I moved forward with my first attempt at the alignment and everything went fine until I tried to get my Camber set to the -.5 to -.75 advised. I was at +.5 to begin and was running out of adjustment on the Rear Lower Link. What I found out from Dan is that with my Ride Height not set to specs my Camber would not match. So I went ahead and re-set my Ride Height to the spec'd 4-1/2" in the Front and went to 5-1/8" on the Rear. Once I did this, I followed the procedure exactly and got the alignment spec'd in. I want to clarify that just because I changed my Ride Height to the spec'd dimensions doesn't mean you have to have your Ride Height at these dimensions, just in order to be consistent throughout this particular process and match the specified Camber, Caster and Toe the height needed to be set to match. Let me add that I will eventually get an actual alignment done on the vehicle, but this was to just get me carting. Just a couple notes here, I used way too much grease in between my spin tiles, so start with a little then add if you need to. Also, maybe with the modifications that FFR announced to the Next Generation 33' this week, they will add some flat spots to the Tie Rod Adjustment Bar. I would advise putting a couple flat spots on it at the back of the threads or possibly adding a second nut prior to installing as I did not and to use Vice Grips to adjust and the knurling that was left did not look pretty. I have attached some pics of the tools and process along the way...

Tools Required (2 x 4's can be used in lieu of the aluminum tubes I used, also I had already greased and set-up my tiles)...
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Spin Plates...
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Setting the string at the Rear Tire...
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After adjustment of the string in the Front...
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Line strung...
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Everything squared...
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JOP33

11-03-2018, 09:54 AM

Do to the alignment, I need to pull my Steering Wheel once again. I posted some pics of this process the last time I did this because I found it so difficult, this time I took a few more pics. I had applied some anti-seize when I re-installed it the last time, but that didn't help much and at Dan Ruth's suggestion I even tried heating it a little to no avail. So I broke out the puller again and it worked like a charm again, just don't like the idea of using the Steering Wheel spokes to pull by...

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JOP33

11-03-2018, 09:58 AM

FF33rod

11-03-2018, 01:08 PM

While I can't go out to the garage and check, since the garage is still empty, I took this as a challenge to look at the wiring diagram to see if I could figure this out. In the separate wiring harness installation instructions, there are fairly complete schematics. What is a little confusing is that the harness is applicable to a couple of FFR models and so there are options used and not used depending on the model. The installation instructions themselves seem to be targeted at the roadster. In any case, from what I could tell, for the hot rod the wheel horn button provides a ground to the horn relay. That relay then provides 12V to the horn itself. So, yes the steering column horn button is switching ground to the horn wire in the column harness. You can double check to see if you have ground on one side of the horn contacts using a multimeter. I couldn't see a ground being supplied to the column in the harness itself so you probably have to make sure it's grounded through the mounting.

Thanks for the hint on creating a flat section on the tie rod adjustment bar (or adding an extra nut). Would you mind highlighting on a photo where that should be? much appreciated.

Steve

RoadRacer

11-03-2018, 05:30 PM

I'd like to get some feedback on if there is suppose to be a ground for the horn? I have had it on twice and neither time has it worked. I believe I read in a past thread about having to add a ground, can someone comment on this if they know? I have just been placing the plastic tube along with the spring into the white plastic tube in the steering column and then attaching the clip on the yellow wire to the cap, but it has yet to work...

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best picture I have of my horns and wiring.. here's the post: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?24163-Roadracer-s-997-build&p=312001&viewfull=1#post312001

It's all double-heatshrunk now, but I think I took two new ground wires from that fan ground.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=80394&d=1517780040

duff33

11-04-2018, 02:09 PM

There should be a wire on a spring that goes into the white tube, when that wire is grounded the horn should work. I have left mine dangling in midair, have not put the cap on yet, so I ended up putting some tape over the end of the wire because every time I brushed up against it it would ground, horn would blow and when you dont expect it you end up jumping.

JimLev

11-04-2018, 03:40 PM

I'd like to get some feedback on if there is suppose to be a ground for the horn? I have had it on twice and neither time has it worked. I believe I read in a past thread about having to add a ground, can someone comment on this if they know? I have just been placing the plastic tube along with the spring into the white plastic tube in the steering column and then attaching the clip on the yellow wire to the cap, but it has yet to work...

96817

Yes, you need to add a ground wire from the back of the horn button assy to the part the button assy fits into.
I don't remember if I had to drill and tap the holes or if they were there.
Looks like you don't have a hole on the back side of you horn button assy.

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JOP33

11-04-2018, 04:58 PM

Yes, you need to add a ground wire from the back of the horn button assy to the part the button assy fits into.
I don't remember if I had to drill and tap the holes or if they were there.
Looks like you don't have a hole on the back side of you horn button assy.

96864

Thank you JL, that is exactly what I needed to confirm!

JOP33

11-04-2018, 07:05 PM

After much patience, work (nearly a year and a half to be exact) and support from this GREAT forum...Today was Go Cart Day! After going through my checklist (I'll need to add something to it after today, but more on that in a moment) we fired Star Mobile 1 up and went for just a short ride up the road...And I know the drill, If there isn't video, it didn't happen...

https://youtu.be/YSjUE7P1jXU

https://youtu.be/RU-xZCB5Rvc

https://youtu.be/W9ATMUna0kc

For the sake of transparency, just a few things I want to share since we are such a close family here...So what you don't see in the videos is that after I pull into the shop, my upper radiator hose blows off and water and antifreeze go everywhere (no one hurt, but I will need to add check radiator hose clamps for tightness to the checklist :mad:). Also, if you look closely in the video where I am pulling into the drive you will notice that the E-Brake is engaged...yep! Stopped in the middle of the jaunt down the road just to check everything and set the E-Brake (cause ya know I did build this thing and I still don't trust myself...for this exact reason) and sure enough left it set and if you listen closely to the end of the video you can hear the rear brakes whining...:rolleyes:. If you reaaaallly look close in the same video in the seat next to the E-Brake you will see ALL of the pebbles that were being thrown into the vehicle (you can also hear them in the video as well). This is making me re-think fenders for this car and sooooo hate that idea. Although I only made it into second gear once (I think), I believe the trans is shifting a little late, so I'll need to adjust the Throttle Valve Cable. Might add that the smoke you see is off the exhaust wrap (I think). So after the water and antifreeze mishap, the rocks in the car and the fact that my rear brakes are now locked up (sure it has something to do with riding half a mile with the e-brake set)...I am still calling this a successful Go Carting! I want to thank ALL of you for your help along the way as I would not have bought the kit without knowing I had this support and would not have made it this far without ya'll! Next step cleaning up some loose ends and checking out pricing on Fenders...:mad:. Here are some additional pics of the day for ya'll to enjoy!

Pre-Check...
96884

96885

Backing out (I can't see nothin')...
96886

My Rock Collection...
96887

Don't step in the puddle...
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And a couple of Temp Pics...
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96890

JimLev

11-04-2018, 09:54 PM

Looks and sounds good JOP.
After I filled my engine with antifreeze I used my pressure tester to pump it up to check for leaks.
The clamps were as tight as I could get them however the hose on the t-stat still blew off.
It now has 2 clamps on it.

My floors are HOT too, going to add shields above them and wrap them.

FF33rod

11-04-2018, 10:26 PM

Congratulations!! sounds great and looks good, love the wheels

rychi1

11-05-2018, 10:50 AM

JOP33

11-05-2018, 01:21 PM

You have your pipes wrapped,a layer of heat shield, and then the FFR Heat shield, and your floor boards are still 150 degrees. Any thoughts on why the passenger side is 150 and the drivers side 97?

I ask because I am trying to figure out what I am going to do on mine.

That's pretty observant of you rychi1 and no I don't have any idea why they may be different other than that there was several minutes that went by between the PS and DS pics (approximately 3-5 minutes) so that might account somewhat for the difference. I was pretty shocked at the temps too as I also have Lizard Skin on the bottom of the aluminum. I haven't though much about what and if I need to do something additionally. I was having to give a little more throttle than I had anticipated to move the car, now in retrospect I now know that the last leg of the ride was with my e-brake fully engage, so (just thinking out loud here no logic applied) that could account for a little hotter temp and I was going at a pretty slow clip??? Really want to get it back out one more time and instead of focusing on whether the car is going to blow up or break into a million pieces, focus my efforts on things like temperature, etc.. I like the shield idea but honestly I have VERY little room between the muffler and the aluminum floor pan.

JOP33

11-05-2018, 01:29 PM

Any tire experts out there? I am really trying to figure out how it is that I ended up with soooo many pebbles in my car? I have spoken several other builders that don't have fenders and not one has said that was an issue when asked. Is a new, non-driven tire softer and more "sticky" so as to pick up rocks and toss them opposed to a well driven tire? The road I was on is asphalt and receives lighter traffic flow if you will, but when I drive down it in my daily driver nothing gets picked up and I don't hear anything even hitting the wheel wells (believe me I tested it this morning). Am I grasping at straws here, do I just need to shut up and order the fender kit? Would like some feedback on this.

Thanks all

TxMike64

11-05-2018, 01:59 PM

Burnouts.... that'll make the tires sticky.... just do fewer burnouts and donuts....

;)

Straversi

11-05-2018, 02:24 PM

wrp

11-05-2018, 09:14 PM

While not a fan of fenders by any stretch, consider each pebble as a potential chip or scratch in your paint.

96939

TDSapp

11-06-2018, 11:56 AM

My first thought while watching the video was to ask if you lived on a gravel road... I bet once you get a windshield and doors on the car you will get much less garbage in your car while driving it.

I am going to have the same issue but I can't really go with fenders at all. With having 18" wheels in the rear I will not be able to use fenders. I am thinking that I will put one of the clear wraps on part of the body.

CVOBill

11-06-2018, 12:16 PM

Congrats on the go cart ride. The pebbles won't be as bad in the car when the body is on, I had the same problem.

JOP33

11-06-2018, 12:28 PM

Tim and Bill, thanks for the input. I just can't imagine that having the body on will make that much of a difference and I am not as much concerned that the rocks were coming into the car as I am that if I am about to spend a significant amount on my paint what the rocks will end up doing to the paint. And don't get me wrong, I am not expecting that the car would stay pristine, but at the rate those rocks were coming up, the paint may not last a weekend!

TDSapp

11-06-2018, 12:35 PM

CVOBill

11-06-2018, 12:37 PM

I understand your concern, but I really haven't had a problem with paint chipping (well other than the one on my hood :mad: )

JOP33

11-06-2018, 01:05 PM

Thanks again guys (and Tim, point well taken)!

TxMike64

11-06-2018, 01:46 PM

Going back and looking at the videos again... The roads are "chip seal" which are horrible for loose gravel, especially as they get older. That surface coupled with new sticky tires is probably why you've picked up so much gravel. On regular pavement you shouldn't have as much of a problem - sucks tho because that's your neighborhood!

Smoking Joe

11-06-2018, 06:37 PM

Texas roads and chip paint go to gather. If you drive the FM roads you well get chip paint. The best way out is the full finders. I have cycle finder and they look like this after my trip to GoodGuys in Fort Worth. 96989 To help correct this made and installed Stainless steel proctors on the rear finders 96990 I also added clear Laxan mud flap stile to the front finders 96991. These have been on for about 1000 miles with no more chip paint

JOP33

11-09-2018, 08:01 AM

AJT '33

11-09-2018, 08:21 AM

I have spent the last few evenings cleaning up the "mess" from the upper radiator hose blowing off. I had purchased a set of aftermarket hoses to use for the upper and lowers that, in all honesty, were no different than what FFR supplied with the kit. They were convoluted stainless and still utilized the rubber spacers to adapt to multiple sizes, but they had chrome covers for the clamps, so I opted for them. It looks to me like either I didn't have it tight enough or ultimately it slid out of the rubber spacers. I am going to go back with the same set up, but I have purchased some better quality clamps, that are rounded on the bottom edge and allow for proper torquing around the entire hose instead of just at the worm screw. My intent is to try this one more time with the "dress up" hose and if it fails again I am going to go back with silicone hoses at the proper diameters for the inlet and outlet tubes. It may take me a little time and research to find the preformed hoses and lengths I need, but at that point I think it would be worth it...stay tuned!

If I can suggest a possible solution that I used to get very close hoses, you may want to consider browsing through the Dayco site (http://www.daycoproducts.com/) and visually you will be able to set the parameters for the hose (use this link to start: http://www.daycoproducts.com/online-catalog-1?part_type=10) add in the parameters and from that you can view the photos and measurements that correspond. I have a local parts supplier that has worked with me on sourcing mine and in the end I found a real close fit for the Rad hoses. Be patient and you will find that great match for sure. Once you have the product ID# you can then source the corrugated equivalent or racing equivalent.
This is the top hose I found this way. 97085

JOP33

11-09-2018, 12:41 PM

If I can suggest a possible solution that I used to get very close hoses, you may want to consider browsing through the Dayco site (http://www.daycoproducts.com/) and visually you will be able to set the parameters for the hose (use this link to start: http://www.daycoproducts.com/online-catalog-1?part_type=10) add in the parameters and from that you can view the photos and measurements that correspond. I have a local parts supplier that has worked with me on sourcing mine and in the end I found a real close fit for the Rad hoses. Be patient and you will find that great match for sure. Once you have the product ID# you can then source the corrugated equivalent or racing equivalent.
This is the top hose I found this way. 97085

Thanks for the input AJT...I will definitely look into this.

JOP33

11-11-2018, 05:37 PM

Well my last intentions were to stay with the dress up radiator hose one more time...honestly, it was such a pain to clean up after the hose blew I went ahead and opted for an alternative set-up. I thought I would be able to use Continental Flex Hoses, however they flex MUCH less than you would expect with them be called Flex Hose...

97250

So then I found the Dayco Flex Hose at a local auto parts store and was extremely impressed with this product...

97251

It was very easy to work with and I had also upgraded to some compression clamps...

97252

In fact, I was so impressed with it I decided to go ahead and replace the lower hose as well. The only issue here was that I needed 34" and the longest flex hose I came across was 23.5". I ended up getting the 23.5" and a 11.63" lengths and connected them together with a 1-3/4" hose connector. When all was said and done I was pretty happy with it and felt much better about using them over the stainless hose with the cover. As nice as the stainless hose looked, it seemed to really pull at the clamps (meaning even when I thought I had it very tight I could still twist the hose a bit). So functionality won out over aesthetics (this time)...

97254

Let me be clear, I have never heard anything negative about the stainless hose and I have seen many people use them (I assume successfully), but for me I opted for the traditional rubber hoses. I might add that the Dayco Flex hoses have a spring built into them to keep them from collapsing and allow you to bend them pretty tightly. I did fill the radiator back up with 50/50 and ran it for about five minutes with no leaks (the overflow did burp a little).

As I had mentioned previously, when I go carted, I had some issues with my brake (I think it mainly stemmed from me riding a half a mile with the e-brake engaged). I took the rear wheels off to inspect the brakes and didn't really see anything out of the ordinary. I was going to lube the caliper slides, but they had lube and boots on them already. So at this point I basically just freed the brakes up and re-installed the calipers. Since I had the wheels off I went ahead and installed the 1/2" wheel spacers I had purchased. The offset on these wheels were just a little higher than the recommended so I had gotten these to help with spacing a bit. I actually had not encountered in issues so far in the back (although the body had not been on yet), but in the front I did notice (turning from lock to lock) the tires might want to rub a bit. These were very easy to install as well...

97255

97256

97257

I was going to try and get the car out again today, but it's a little cool here, so I am hoping for a bit warmer day in the near future. I have several small items that I want to clean up before I turn it over to paint and body in February. Kory Ritter from 121 Rods & Restorations will be doing the body work and paint. He is also going to do all of the fit-up on all panels...since I have had two previous back surgeries I am happy to let him do it. I will continue to post any updates or mods that I do over the next few months though.

donshapansky

11-12-2018, 08:40 PM

There are Ford spacers available for the rack and pinion system to limit the turn radius and stop the rubbing, I have the part number from when I addressed the same issue, if you want to do that instead of a spacer. The wheel dish or effective dish will create steering issues such as hunting in ruts or uneven paved roads that rutted from trucks. Your alignment shop may be able to comment on that issue.

JOP33

11-13-2018, 07:00 AM

Dodgeman

11-13-2018, 10:09 AM

JOP33,
I got mine from CJ Pony Parts, part number N-804842-S.
They stopped all the rubbing on the frame tube.
Bob

TxMike64

11-13-2018, 10:45 AM

...The wheel dish or effective dish will create steering issues such as hunting in ruts or uneven paved roads that rutted from trucks..

Thanks for the reminder... I've forgotten how offset and scrub radius affect the steering. Just when I think I settled on a set of wheels!!! I need to figure out the proper offset for the front.

FF33rod

11-13-2018, 12:41 PM

Thanks for the reminder... I've forgotten how offset and scrub radius affect the steering. Just when I think I settled on a set of wheels!!! I need to figure out the proper offset for the front.

Just remember, if you change the offset you've now also changed the backspace - no big deal if you're not going max size tires as there will be some wiggle room. However, if you are going max size then you're either into the body or going to be modifying fenders (if you're running them).

donshapansky

11-13-2018, 02:44 PM

Sorry I thought I had kept the package from Ford, but I can't seem to find it. If I recall there were 4 per package I ordered 2 packages and used 7 of the 8 spacers. It was fairly easy just remove the boots at the end of the rack and insert around the shaft into the housing and check after 2 or 3 to see if the limits have changed on one side then do the other.

JOP33

11-13-2018, 06:21 PM

Thanks guys for all the input...ordering the parts now.

JOP33

11-17-2018, 12:54 PM

Got up this morning and ran the car for about 10 minutes, seem to start and run ok. No leaks from the hoses , but I don't believe the temp came up much as it was just idling. Did burp out about 8oz of water from the over flow. So the manual states to fill the overflow about half full (and then of course it burped out some), is this just a continuous cycle...trying to keep it half full and just cleaning up, checking and refilling each drive? I know that there have been several post about the overflow being undersized. I guess my real question is how critical is it that the reservoir maintains a certain level of fluid or should the radiator being topped off be the real focus? Hope to try and get it out in the neighborhood later, will post if I do.

Thanks

NAZ

11-17-2018, 01:29 PM

As the coolant heats up it expands and if there is not enough room for expansion the pressure builds until the radiator cap allows some to puke out the overflow tube. In the olden days when cars came with no recovery tanks we used the top tank on a down-flow radiator as an expansion tank. Fill the radiator X" below the top and it allowed the coolant to expand. You could fill the radiator and run the car and allow the coolant to puke out (we wern't very focused on the environment back then). Once it cooled you simply open the cap and take note of where the cold coolant level was and that was your cold fill level. That still works but times have changed.

Modern cars now have cross-flow radiators and expansion tanks (or degas tanks) that allow for expansion without coolant puking out the overflow. In the years between we had recovery tanks which is what you're using. The recovery tank would catch coolant that puked out the overflow and retain it until the cooling system returned to ambient temp which would now create a vacuum in the radiator. Use of a check valve in the radiator cap allowed ambient air pressure to force coolant caught in a recovery tank to flow back into the radiator. And the cycle would start all over.

If you want to run your radiator full when cold then the recovery tank that came with your kit is likely not large enough for the total expansion of your system. When cold, the recovery tank only needs enough coolant to cover the return hose port to prevent from sucking air. I ran the calculation on expansion to determine the size recovery tank needed for my system -- but that is specific to my application, not a general rule for size. If you're not into calculating expansion rates you can simply pick a larger size recovery tank and through trial & error determine what works. Or you could go old school and leave an air space in the radiator top tank to allow for expansion and use the recovery tank for excess capacity. If you're worried about cooling capacity by not running your radiator full, think about it. How much cooling is the expanded coolant in the recovery tank providing?

JOP33

11-17-2018, 04:01 PM

Thanks NAZ for the input...love all of this info guys! Here is a pic of my puddle...:p

97604

Also have an issue with the indicator lights staying on as soon as battery is connected...

97605

I know that I have seen a thread on this issue before. FFR says I need to have the lights actually connected (and maybe that is so), but I am a little skeptical of that answer. I have been proving wrong many times on this build though.

I did get the car out in the sun a bit today...not on the road but a little sun...

97606

97607

97608

97609

97610

And then back into the shop...

97611

JOP33

11-19-2018, 07:21 AM

Actually wanted to get the car back in the shop the right way and on the lift, so late Saturday I just drove it out the drive and intended to back it up turn it around and head it back in (nose first). When I went to back up the car died on me...started it twice more for it to only run for a few seconds then die. After that it wouldn't turn over. Had to pull it back into the drive to get it straight then I was able to just push it back into the shop. Seems to me that it is something fuel line related. Earlier that morning it ran for about ten minutes without stopping, but about every 20 - 30 seconds it would act like it was going to die (but never did). It's still running off the original set-up from Engine Factory (I haven't made any adjustments there...yet). So maybe this week I'll get a better idea of what it could be. I will try to get it idling again and check the fuel pressure and see if it drops any. Just spit balling here, but I thought it might be the fuel lines. They travel along lower tube of the passenger side chassis then jut up at the firewall to the EFI system. Don't know if they push of fuel up could be an issue (again spit balling here). I also just removed some zip ties along the fuel lines and went back with some insulated clamps...maybe a pinch there? Anyway, will try and work through it this week. If ya'll have any ideas on this don't hesitate to offer feedback.

97718

Thanks

JOP33

11-25-2018, 12:57 PM

I have been working on a few things this weekend. I had an issue the last time I tried to run the vehicle with it dieing on me. I haven't been able to get it to restart since. My thoughts were that I had an issue with the fuel line (somewhere). When I try to start the vehicle the fuel pressure gauge was only registering around 40 psi (s/b 58.5). I had been wanting to change the lines I used out, so no better time than the present. When I started taking everything out I notice a slight kink in the feed line. I don't know that this was the issue, but very well could have been. Since it had been a new tank as well I took the time to go ahead and replace the filters (at the suggestion of MBB Larry). So things went pretty well no issues replacing anything, but went to crank it up today and I can hear that the fuel pump is not coming on. The plan for later today is to confirm I am getting power, check the fuse on the pump and go from there.

JOP33

11-27-2018, 07:28 AM

Confirmed this weekend that the Holley Fuel Pump went out. For what reason I am not sure of as it had less than thirty minutes of run time on it. I always showed good pressure until it went out. I reached out to Engine Factory and they are sending a new one at a competitive price to me, and pending RMA from Holley, will credit my purchase of the new one to reflect Holley's disposition. Let me just say that Engine Factory has been extremely helpful throughout my build. From the technical side of things down to the small hiccups that I expected to encounter along the process, they have been there every time and responded in a timely manner! Would definitely recommend them to any builder looking for an engine package. Hope to get the new pump re-installed in the next few days.

I have the pump, pre-filter and post filter installed on a piece of angle that I mounted to the horizontal tube that runs above the tube where the factory location for the battery is...

98246

98247

98248

As mentioned previously, while I had everything disassembled, I went ahead and replaced both fuel filters (just in case) and took the opportunity to rerun the fuel lines. I shortened the length a bit and went with a hose that was less likely to kink during routing. I also replaced the fuel return line where I had cut it to install a fuel pressure gauge :mad:...and then realized that I wasn't cutting the flow side (where the gauge should be). So I removed that splice and changed the location of the gauge and the hangers I was using. I haven't replaced the heat shielding as of yet until I re-install the pump.

98249

98250

98251

I also dove into the issue with the E-Brakes sticking. MBB Larry had just taken ownership of his new 33' kit in Grapevine, Tx and had invited me over to see his progress. He is doing a great job on his build and making some good progress. He showed me how smoothly his e-brake cables were moving and as soon as I saw his I knew something was up with mine. He had sprayed some liquid teflon on the inner cable and worked them back and forth for a bit. So I purchased some spray silicon and lubed the cable as well on mine (something I had not even thought of before). So I clamped both ends of the cable to the workbench and sprayed both ends while working the sheathing back and forth for about 10 minutes on each cable (I felt like I was Alpine Skiing). Both seem to be moving more freely now (not quite as smooth as Larry's but much better than before). I also altered my cable routing slightly.

98252

98253

98254

98255

JOP33

12-03-2018, 07:57 AM

With the wheels & tires I was running I had added some 1/2" wheel spacers in the front to keep them from rubbing. After some input from a couple other builders, I decided to install some Rack Limiters instead. Very easy to install, and took care of the issue and allowed me to remove the spacers...

98544

I also had a visitor to the shop this weekend. The gentleman that will be painting the vehicle, installing doors, top, etc. came out to get a look the body on the 33' and just review the build. Kory, the same painter that did WRP's (Green) 33' will be doing this one as well. He had a lot of great suggestions and gave me some good pointers on few smaller things I need to finish up. We discussed the Fender dilemma...only a dilemma because I (other builders please don't be offended, my opinion only, for my vehicle...:cool:) am not a fan of the fendered look on the 33', however each day I am trying to open myself of to the realization that I will probably need fenders to protect this paint. So logically and financially it is the right thing to do...I am just having some issues coming to grips with it:rolleyes:! But it does make sense. Kory threw out a few ideas to work with on the fenders and I will be contemplating those from now until I decide. New fuel pump should be here today and I hope to get that back in and this thing cranked back up in the near future.

JOP33

12-06-2018, 08:28 AM

New Fuel Pump did make it in and immediately put voltage to it using my cordless drill battery and it winded up quickly...so I am good on the pump. I did however check the wiring going to the pump in the car and for some reason or another I am not getting 12v at the pump. I checked the relay and the relay is good and working as well as the fuse. I will need to chase down the 12v and ground wires and see where I am losing power at...of course this means removing the seats, trans tunnel, e-brake :( to check the wires. This has me re-thinking the current routing of the wires under the trans tunnel :rolleyes:. I am hoping it is something simple like a connector as the pump had been getting plenty of power previously...at least until it wasn't :p. Stay tuned...

JimLev

12-06-2018, 09:15 AM

How about the switch that shuts down power to the fuel pump if the car rolls over, can't remember the real name of it.

JOP33

12-06-2018, 11:07 AM

How about the switch that shuts down power to the fuel pump if the car rolls over, can't remember the real name of it.

Good point Jim! It (inertia switch) is depressed, but I have not checked it to make sure it is actually working. I will though! Thanks

fostia

12-09-2018, 12:13 AM

Question for you on the steering stops since you put some in. I bought the same ones you used earlier in this thread. Did you just remove the boot and clip one on either side? I bought two and clipped them on either side. The driver side now is fine but the passenger side is not. Just to double check, I put both clips on the passenger side and it still does not stop before hitting the A-arm. I'm wondering what your experience was, did you just put one on either side? I haven't done any sort of wheel alignment yet but I don't think it would be that far off.

98797
98798

JOP33

12-10-2018, 06:53 AM

JOP33

12-10-2018, 07:40 AM

Worked on the fuel lines again this weekend. I finally locked down hangers for the fuel lines. I had previously used the insulated hangers and they seemed to do ok, but I am using the flexible fuel lines and so I was a little concerned with them closing down and crushing or kinking the lines, so I opted for some rigid duplex hangers that took care of the return and the feed line ( I will post pics later today).

MBB Larry came over to the shop this weekend and helped me attempt to track down the fuel pump issue I was having. My fuel pump had quit running after only 20 minutes of run time, so I have since replaced it (but not re-installed it). It ran perfectly...until it didn't. I pulled it off, the pump was dead as I confirmed by putting power directly to it. I also was not getting power to the fuel pump. So yesterday Larry and I tested for power, ground, checked the relay, replaced the relay thinking that was the issue but after not making any headway we called it a day. Later on in the day, I decided to just start from the beginning as I thought I had checked everything up to this point. So I started as basic as it gets, I checked the fuse, which I promise ya'll I had previously checked as the first thing and what do you know...the fuse is blown! I can only chock this one up to me being an idiot and a cheap fuse! The fuse that was used is extremely opaque in the middle and I only visually check the fuse initially. This time I actually put a multimeter to and checked continuity and sure enough...blown! So I then replaced the fuse and confirmed voltage at the fuel pump leads and it was good to go. Now in the back of my head I am now trying to figure out what caused the fuse to blow and at the same time I am starting to re-install the same, identical fuel pump back on my fuel rail. I notice as I am doing this that this fuel pump has plastic isolators installed under the locknuts on the + and - post of the fuel pump...these were not on the original fuel pump:confused:. My original fuel pump came in a box from Engine Factory (they installed the Sniper System on the Engine), but I installed the fuel pump and there was absolutely NO isolators on it. And I must have gotten caught up in just the process of attaching the wires to the terminals and didn't even think about the technical side of if the terminals twist they will essentially short (blow fuse) and probably kill the fuel pump! Needless to say, isolators are on new pump and are being used. I am almost certain this was the issue with this. Again, I will try to post some pics this evening, but wanted to get this down before I forgot.

JOP33

12-14-2018, 07:09 AM

Here are some of the pics from the previous post...

The pesky fuse...
98941

Fuel Pump Rail and close-up of plastic isolation block...
98942

98943

Billet Battery Tray...
98944

Re-Routing of Electrical to Battery...
98945

Re-Location of Inertia Switch...
98946

Clamps for Fuel Line Feed and Return...
98947

I am now working on re-routing the e-brake cable as it still seems to be in bit of a bind. I am hopefully to have that completed sometime this weekend.

JOP33

12-17-2018, 07:59 AM

Worked this weekend re-routing the E-Brake Lines. There really just seemed to be one true area of concern and that was as the cables came from the welded bracket area forward of the driveshaft. I changed that (you can see the old screw holes below) and then adjusted a few other curves. Checked the routings and engagement, both at full droop and on the ground and all seems to be working much better now without any sticking (thanks Larry)...

99136

99137

Would like to get some input from other builders on a couple of things...below are pics of my inertia switch and my fuel lines as they run across the top of the tank...

99138

99139

My questions are 1) is my inertia switch protruding to high above the rail (should I lower it)? I am not sure how close the body will actually sit and with the gauges temporarily installed I can't actually put the body on at this point to check (this will be an easy fix either way, but trying to get it solved up front). Next question is what, if anything gets installed or lays across the large brackets that are welded to the Upper Trunk Tube (lies right above the fuel tank). You can see in the picture I have clamps screwed into those brackets to hold my fuel lines in place...if something (body, etc) mounts flush to these, they will also need to be moved.

I have also gathered up the remaining parts (I think I have them all) that I need to have powder coated, I will be taking those to work to have those done later this week...

99140

In addition, while I was cleaning up my storage area in the shop and tossing a few more boxes (I am down to about 5), I also went through and marked the small aluminum pieces that I had lying around. I know a couple of builders had mentioned some difficulty in knowing what each piece is. I have labeled and put the part number on them so maybe this will help someone. I was going to also put where they could be found in the manual, however there are several that I have yet to come across in the manual :confused:...

99141

JimLev

12-17-2018, 08:55 AM

I don't have my body on yet however I do beleive the sheet metal you have your inertia switch mounted to will be touching the body so the switch will need to be lowered.

Not sure about the fuel lines strapped to the seat belt brackets. If none of the hardware rubs on the fuel lines you could be OK.

TDSapp

12-17-2018, 09:46 AM

JOP,

He is a photo of that area you are talking about. It does appear that the body hits where you have your inertia switch.

http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/20181107_183428-1.jpg

JOP33

12-17-2018, 11:03 AM

Thanks guys...this is just the feedback I was needing!

JOP33

12-22-2018, 08:29 AM

Worked a little bit this week on some small stuff. I drew up a larger template for the auxiliary fuse block that I had installed in the passenger side floorboard. I wanted to go a little larger to try and cover the entire area to the trans tunnel. I also want to put a slight kickout on the bottom to transition to the floor a little better. I have a few other random parts to design and draw up so I wait a bit to fab but at least I have the template now...

99374

As much as I have tried to be cautious about holes I have to drill, it just seemed with the routing of the e-brake cables I jumped the gun a bit, so I did have some mounting holes that changed leavings some other holes...well, holes. I thought about just running stainless screws in them but then I came across these plugs on McMaster Carr and they actually worked pretty well and you can get them in different colors and sizes. You do have to be a little compromising I guess when it comes to color, but I thought I'd pass the info along...

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I have also started working on some interior (dash) layout ideas as well. These are what I have come up with so far, the silver will be paint and the blue would be covered vinyl...

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Well, I am headed over to MBB Larry's today as he has requested some assistance in dropping his engine in his 33'. I don't know how much help I can offer as it will be only the second engine I have helped install, but a great guy and awesome build, so it will be a good day! My intentions are to have my 33' up and running again this weekend, so hopefully more updates to come.

And have a Merry Christmas y'all!

fostia

12-24-2018, 03:37 PM

I actually used two on each side and seemed to do the trick. What size tires and offset?

I have 255/35 R19 with 5.5 backspace. I was going to get 18s but they were back ordered forever.

The problem I'm having is the passenger side. I bought the same part number as you but my spacers disappear under the lip of the rack and keep going no matter how many I add. Are they supposed to hit the lip in the photo I show below? If yours do, I'm puzzled in regards to why mine are different? See picture below... factory five said I should just make some spacers out of PVC but I don't want to do that as I've read elsewhere that's not ideal because the PVC becomes brittle.... Really appreciate your input to help me figure out what may be different with mine!

99501

JOP33

12-25-2018, 11:21 AM

I have 255/35 R19 with 5.5 backspace. I was going to get 18s but they were back ordered forever.

The problem I'm having is the passenger side. I bought the same part number as you but my spacers disappear under the lip of the rack and keep going no matter how many I add. Are they supposed to hit the lip in the photo I show below? If yours do, I'm puzzled in regards to why mine are different? See picture below... factory five said I should just make some spacers out of PVC but I don't want to do that as I've read elsewhere that's not ideal because the PVC becomes brittle.... Really appreciate your input to help me figure out what may be different with mine!

99501

I will try to get you some pics over to you. I will need to pull the boots off, so it may be later this week or early next week.

JOP33

12-25-2018, 11:55 AM

I spent some time out in the shop the last few days just cleaning up some smaller things...brackets, re-routing some lines, hanging some lines, etc, nothing too mind-blowing but here are some pics...

Lower Radiator Hose Bracket...
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Transmission Line Brackets...
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Radiator Reservoir Lines...
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JOP33

12-25-2018, 12:04 PM

Also my Passenger Side E-Brake cable was hanging just a little closer than I would like to the inside of the rear rim, so I actually got this idea from MBB Larry on his build. I purchased a spring and attached it to the bottom of the chassis and then connected the other end to the brake cable... it puts just enough tension on the cable to pull it up and away from the rim...

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and of course it's never too early to add a little bling...
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Davew70

12-25-2018, 05:11 PM

and of course it's never too early to add a little bling...
99545[/QUOTE]

The bling is a great touch :)

JOP33

12-26-2018, 01:33 PM

I was able to to mount the Battery Plate and after some good feedback from a few builders, I lowered my inertia switch a bit so as not to be hit with the deck lid...

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I had to be a little cautious about the placement of the battery as well, since there is a taper to the lid, I didn't want the top of the battery to interfere with the deck lid. Hopefully I moved it in just enough.

JOP33

12-27-2018, 07:17 AM

Got the rest of my parts back from work today, they have really done a great job and saved me quite a bit of money!

99618

By the way, I was just catching up on some of the other Builder's Threads, I can't tell you how amazed I continue to be by some of the craftsmanship, blacksmithing, fabbing, etc. that continues to show up on this forum. You all have great talents and creativity that shows day after day in your builds. It is this kind of inspiration that not only inspired me to build my kit but fuels the future builders.

Thank you all for your continued inspiration!

fostia

12-31-2018, 11:48 PM

Sorry to be a pain but did you have a chance to peek under the boot? I know that it's a pain but you'd be helping me get through one of my indecisive hurdles.... I really appreciate it!

-Ian

JOP33

01-01-2019, 08:28 AM

Sorry to be a pain but did you have a chance to peek under the boot? I know that it's a pain but you'd be helping me get through one of my indecisive hurdles.... I really appreciate it!

-Ian

No worries...I should be out in the shop most of the day today. I’ll try to get pics.

JOP33

01-01-2019, 11:29 AM

Sorry to be a pain but did you have a chance to peek under the boot? I know that it's a pain but you'd be helping me get through one of my indecisive hurdles.... I really appreciate it!

-Ian

Hope this helps you out...

Passenger side turning full right...
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Without Boot...
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Driver side turning full left...
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Without Boot...
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JOP33

01-01-2019, 07:19 PM

Only a few things done today and really more just for fit up and prepping for paint. As I have mentioned before, I will be handing Star Mobile One off to the painter to complete the majority of the rest of the work...all body panel fit-up, prepping & painting. So part of what I wanted to start doing is just dry fit some components and locate and install (temporarily) the hardware, in hopes of making it just a bit easier on the final install and to familiarize the painter with what hardware goes where (although Kory is the painter that Bill (WRP) used on his Green 33, so I am pretty confident there shouldn't be too many hiccups. So here are just a few pics of the work from today, again nothing has been installed permanently today or in the correct order for that matter :p...

Just a couple additional comments, I did opt for Tim Whittaker's (KVC) bushing package for the Trunk, Hood and the Door Hinges. I believe I have them installed correctly now (the washers that is), but I have an email in to Tim to confirm.

Trunk Hinge...
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Door Hinge Bushings (Kootenai Valley Customs)...
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The top (2) bolts on the Hinge Brackets are (were) extremely difficult for me to get in place due to the slanted geometry of the Brackets, so I ended up shaving the heads down a bit, so they would clear a little bit better. Only the top (2) required this and even then it was still bit of a challenge (and this was a dry fit, can't imagine trying to install with doors in place, etc).

Hinge Bolt Lengths...
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Difference between shaved and non-shaved heads...
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Top Hinge Bolts that were difficult to get in...
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Driver's Side Hinge & Door Bracket dry fit-up...
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Passenger's Side Hinge & Door Bracket dry fit-up...
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JOP33

01-01-2019, 07:19 PM

Passenger's Side Hinge & Door Bracket dry fit-up (con't)...
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fostia

01-01-2019, 07:34 PM

[QUOTE=JOP33;352024]Hope this helps you out...

Thanks so much for pulling off the boot. Unfortunately, the mystery remains. Yours (exact same clip part number and most likely steering rack) appear to be bottoming out on something that mine isn't and it's driving me crazy. Mine are just getting sucked deep into the rack. Do you know on what yours are bottoming out on?

I edited one of your pictures to hopefully show what I'm talking about....

99989

Here's mine. I put 5 spacers on just now and they all went into the rack and didn't bottom out on anything and my tire still hit the a-arm. &*@#^%*&#@^$*@#

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JOP33

01-02-2019, 07:30 AM

Here's mine. I put 5 spacers on just now and they all went into the rack and didn't bottom out on anything and my tire still hit the a-arm. &*@#^%*&#@^$*@#

I will check into this tonight and report back.

JOP33

01-02-2019, 07:56 PM

Here's mine. I put 5 spacers on just now and they all went into the rack and didn't bottom out on anything and my tire still hit the a-arm. &*@#^%*&#@^$*@#

99993
99994

I am not technically savy with regards to the inner workings of the steering rack, but it appears on mine there is a plastic or rubber "tri-fan" insert that that seems to be retained by the outside slots in the tube and this is what is keeping my spacers from going any further. It looks like on yours that that piece is either not there or has been pushed further down the tube past where the slots would retain it. Sorry it is very difficult to get a good pic of this, but I hope this at least gets you headed in the right direction...

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fostia

01-03-2019, 02:02 AM

I am not technically savy with regards to the inner workings of the steering rack, but it appears on mine there is a plastic or rubber "tri-fan" insert that that seems to be retained by the outside slots in the tube and this is what is keeping my spacers from going any further. It looks like on yours that that piece is either not there or has been pushed further down the tube past where the slots would retain it. Sorry it is very difficult to get a good pic of this, but I hope this at least gets you headed in the right direction...

100035

100036

Thanks so much for taking the time to do this. It is much appreciated! I figured something like this was happening. Hopefully it didnt get sucked down in the rack. I think my game plan is to just create some nylon spacers with a larger OD that will hit that lip and pretend i never knew about any a possible retaining clip. Perhaps that clip went to the same place that my inertia switch ball disappeared to ( I noticed my cap had come off the other day and the ball was missing). It seems to always be something....

JOP33

01-05-2019, 07:24 PM

Not a lot of productivity today, just more prep work. I had been contemplating making some kind of cover for my solenoid & my distribution block. Early on I tried to get these two items inside the passenger compartment instead of on the Engine side of the firewall, but my feeling was that with the AC and the Electric Steering Module (and at that time I was also thinking about wiper space, I have since decided on a Mighty Wiper installed on the removable top...thanks Bill) things were just going to be cramped, so I opted to put it on the engine side and it has just been a real eyesore to me every since. I was able to come up with a design that I like, will look good and be functional. I drew it up and created a paper template of it to try it out first and I think I am going to be happy with it. The final version will be made of 14ga steel and chrome plated...

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There are a couple interior ideas that I have been toying around with as well as long as budget doesn't get in the way. First, I am planning on using Tim Whittaker's dash insert on the dash, but I am a very visual person and have no imagination so I traced Tim's insert on paper and this will allow me to play around with a few different layouts before carving it up...

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While I was at it, I am planning to re-cover the door panels (this was confirmed when I saw the upholstery on the armrest), so I made templates of those too. Once I have the template, I will put them into CAD and play around with the design on those as well...

FFR Armrest...
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Now granted this has been in my shop for nearly two years.

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And since I was in the template mood, I had been seriously thinking about creating some type of dust cover to go around the transmission on the firewall side. This would just be something to help keep dust & moisture out of the area that leads back up into the passenger compartment. MBB Larry had cut me a foam template of the firewall from his kit before he had the engine in, so today I just traced it onto paper for future reference if I decide to do something (actually kind of talking myself out of it as I sit here typing, but we'll see)...

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JOP33

01-05-2019, 07:35 PM

Templates cont'd...
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Today was also a really nice day! Got up to 73 I believe, great January weather (I am not a fan of the cold). With that being said I had some final Lizard Skinning that I really needed to get done so I got those parts laid out and sprayed the Sound Deadener portion on today. I will spray the Heat Shield on tomorrow...

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JOP33

01-08-2019, 07:40 AM

As a continuation of doing some dry fitting of components, I assembled the hood hinges yesterday. I am using a bushing package for the Hood, Doors & Trunk and they seemed to fit up well (however the hood isn't on at this point)...

100315

One of my growing concerns has been where the shifter lever sits in relation to where the dash and (really) any console might be. My intent at this point is that I really want to do a forward and rear camera set-up. Navigation and Radio will be included as well, but accommodating the screen (at least one big enough to be functional) is going to be challenging I think. I have seen it done in many of the 33's, however the shifter placement I have seen has been pushed back a bit. When installing my shifter I pushed the kit itself back as far as I possibly could and gained about 1-2 inches. Yesterday I reached out to Lokar after doing some research and they confirmed that I should also be able to rotate the shifter lever back some by loosening the (2) screws on either side of the lever at the base of the unit. I will try to this this weekend and report back...

100316

Keeping on topic with some of what I just mentioned about the shifter. I am currently playing around with a few concepts here. I am trying to keep the actual dash as clean as I possibly can, so I am just trying to stay with the gauges and two vents for air on either side. Then I am trying to fit the AC controls, Ign-Hdlts-Wpr Controls and then a LCD Screen down on to an extension of the fiberglass dash. Just in the concept phase now, but I have been trying to get a feel of how much (or little room I will have)...

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JOP33

01-09-2019, 07:16 AM

A little more progress last night...Installed the hood hinges, trunk aluminum, battery tray & battery. All items still just attached temporarily. I also moved the inertia switch down a bit as some of the builders had confirmed for me that my previous placement would likely interfere with the trunk. Not that you will be able to tell from the pictures shown, but I also added a bit of a stiffener plate to the trunk floor (where the battery sits). Essentially, it is just a .050" doubler plate (thanks for the idea Larry) that adds a little more rigidity to that area. With that being said, I also eliminated the access holes that were in the trunk floor as well. Any adjustments that need to be done to the shocks (for me) are easily done from underneath the vehicle. I know for a fact (from speaking with other builders) that the bottom most trunk floor panel tends to be a bit feeble with the latch mechanism for the trunk attached. So I have been thinking about the possibility of placing (4) support arms (or gussets) that would attach to that aluminum panel from underneath and then bridge back over to the chassis tubing. I know that Tim offers a brace for this area as well, but I was thinking about something that would go back to the chassis. Sorry guys, just thinking out loud here...like to hear any suggestions on this, if you have them. By the way, I did cover the trunk aluminum (both sides) with the Lizard Skin Sound and Heat Shield and then my intentions are to either carpet or upholster the trunk area to finish up, but for now I am still a ways away from that...

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One thing I did want to add, is that the battery placement is moved toward the rear of the car just enough that when the trunk hinges are completely lowered the battery doesn't get in the way of the hinges. I know this is difficult to see from the pics as well.

TxMike64

01-09-2019, 09:00 AM

100352

Such a clean build!

There's a very high likelihood I'm wrong about this, but aren't the ball-studs for the hood hinge gas struts supposed to be on the outside of the hinge?

JOP33

01-09-2019, 10:07 AM

Such a clean build!

There's a very high likelihood I'm wrong about this, but aren't the ball-studs for the hood hinge gas struts supposed to be on the outside of the hinge?

Mike, I had my own reservations about this as well (at to some point still do), but this what I went by...

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JOP33

01-09-2019, 10:30 AM

Such a clean build!

...And by the way thanks Mike.

HVACMAN

01-09-2019, 05:25 PM

I sprayed all my exposed Lizard Skin with their Top Coat. It gives it a nice finished look and helps weather proof it as well.

duff33

01-09-2019, 06:32 PM

JOP33

01-10-2019, 07:02 AM

Beautiful build, its an inspiration. My hood is on and the ball studs are on the inside so you are good. Its hard to tell from the photo angle but make sure your trunk hinge arm does not come down and hit your battery. I had to move mine to the left a little so the arm could clear.

Thank you and yes, I should have mentioned this as well. I am right under the edge of the aluminum, I will have to see once the deck lid is installed, but I do have a bit of room to move if need be.

JOP33

01-10-2019, 04:11 PM

I sprayed all my exposed Lizard Skin with their Top Coat. It gives it a nice finished look and helps weather proof it as well.

I actually have some of this and may use it on the underside. I plan on covering the trunk area with something, so I probably won't spray this area with anything else.

JOP33

01-11-2019, 07:28 AM

Added the Door Striker Brackets and temporarily used some small self-tapping screws to attach the rest of the aluminum. These are small enough that if I decide to rivet them on upon final fit-up it shouldn't be a problem. I also drew up a Floor Stiffener for the Trunk that I may end up using to help beef up that lower panel where the fiberglass body will attach...

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TxMike64

01-11-2019, 10:55 AM

100478

Looks like a good solution. One question I have... Do you use Solidworks at work? Most guys don't have a license laying around to use in the garage. I'm a CAD jockey (CSWP) and get excited when I find other SW users.

AJT '33

01-11-2019, 01:40 PM

Looks like a good solution. One question I have... Do you use Solidworks at work? Most guys don't have a license laying around to use in the garage. I'm a CAD jockey (CSWP) and get excited when I find other SW users.

Add me in as I am also a SW user which is one of the reasons I chose an FFR vehicle. I am doing all my optional enhancements like the third brake light, gear shifter design along with the V8 logo going on the front bumpers.
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JOP33

01-11-2019, 03:15 PM

Looks like a good solution. One question I have... Do you use Solidworks at work? Most guys don't have a license laying around to use in the garage. I'm a CAD jockey (CSWP) and get excited when I find other SW users.

Yes, background in Manufacturing, but was in Engineering prior to my current role. Have used AutoCad, Pro-E & SolidWorks and SW takes the cake by far...IMO. I use Drafsight for small projects around the house though...free CAD software.

JimLev

01-11-2019, 03:42 PM

I bought TurboCad many years ago and have updated it a few times. This does what I need it for with most of it being over my head.

JOP33

01-13-2019, 12:19 PM

Well, yesterday put an ending to another season as a Cowboys Fan, but honestly it was a better season than any of us could have hoped for and here's to next season! On the bright side, I am hoping to open next season with Star Mobile One complete and ready to go! It will be taking the place of the current Star Mobile One that has been active for the last three years as it will move on to become Star Mobile Too. Good luck to all the teams remaining!

Star Mobile Too!
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JOP33

01-13-2019, 12:29 PM

On a more serious note, I had been contemplating whether to use the existing console I had purchased or to build out something custom. I spent some time yesterday doing some fit-up with the existing console and must admit I think I will be happy with using it. What was really driving my initial concern was being able to add a screen for a forward facing & back-up camera. After putting it in place temporarily and taking some measurements, I think it will actually work out well with the receiver I intend on using...

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Larry (builder in Grapevine), was kind enough to lend me his fender kit so that I could play around with them in hopes I might first, come to grips with the idea of adding fenders & two, come up with a concept I might actually like...only time will tell. I definitely think that if I am going to use any resemblance of a fender, I will need to have them bobbed considerably..

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I am currently organizing what inventory I have left and getting things ready to go to the Hotrod Shop for prepping and paint at the end of the month. More just about finishing a few details than really anything too overwhelming. I will continue that process over the next few weeks and will also try to knock down some of the Mold lines on the body to take at least a bit of time away from the Shop.

Jwheels

01-13-2019, 03:28 PM

Are you Cowboys fan? Never would have guessed. LOL
Been reading your build thread for a couple of months now, that is going to be an awesome hot rod when done.

Oh by the way, GO CHIEFS!!!

JOP33

01-13-2019, 04:20 PM

Are you Cowboys fan? Never would have guessed. LOL
Been reading your build thread for a couple of months now, that is going to be an awesome hot rod when done.

Oh by the way, GO CHIEFS!!!

Appreciate the comments and as things fallout, I wouldn't mind seeing the Chiefs in the end.

HVACMAN

01-13-2019, 08:43 PM

If you don't mind me asking. Where did you find your console?

JOP33

01-13-2019, 09:19 PM

If you don't mind me asking. Where did you find your console?

I’ll pm you with info.

JOP33

01-15-2019, 06:51 AM

I received my Grease Fitting Covers yesterday, snug fit and have o-ring so I am hopeful they minimize the amount of grease leakage...

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JOP33

01-18-2019, 02:50 PM

1932

01-18-2019, 08:22 PM

The only thing that matters is what our own eyes see.

Straversi

01-18-2019, 10:00 PM

I would love to build a 33 or the truck next because of the unlimited possibilities. Looking forward to walking the Grand National Roadster Show next week, just to collect ideas. Loved building the MK IV but next time....
-Steve

Barrel

01-19-2019, 01:42 AM

The only thing that matters is what our own eyes see.

I agree. And then there's how it drives.

erlihemi

01-19-2019, 03:16 PM

Been discussing with local builder MBB Larry offline about look of car, fenders vs. fenderless, tires, etc. and just thought I'd bring some discussion to the forum a bit (after all things have been slow as of late). Let me preface by saying this is just my opinion and based on my experience(s) alone. It's funny how for me as I was initially working through the concept of my build, I was taking in everything and anything that everyone could offer, meaning I downloaded ideas, concepts, parts I wanted, you name it and once decided upon, I wasn't moving on "my" ideas of the perfect Hot Rod (or others ideas at this point), even as my idea seemed to change everyday :cool:...as long as it fit my budget, it was going to be done! After I purchased my kit and actually started working on it I would move forward holding my ground on "my" idea of what I wanted...after all, it is my Hot Rod! Then slowly what I found was that my concepts would change based on frustrations, challenges, logic, functionality or in some cases, just better ideas. I would progress through the build, take a few steps back because of some of my stubbornness, compromise with myself and then move on with an adaptation. Ultimately, I think what I am getting at, is we all envision the perfect Hot Rod to start with and when it's all said and done...we get the perfect Hot Rod, for each of us. It may not look exactly as planned or designed, but as you progress you tend to fall in love with it's quirks and idiosyncracies and I don't know this to be fact (as mine is not complete yet), but all the frustrations, adaptations, modifications and compromises seem to cohesively present themselves as the most beautiful, sleekest, badaXX Hot Rod out there! I hope I am correct...and either way, I can't wait to experience it!

Beauty is in the eye of the Builder... No matter what cars I looked at it seems that I changed my mind whenever I had the car outside with nothing else around it. The build will evolve as you go. Some things I learned along the way.

1) with no fenders on the front and the windows down you can throw road stones and even worms up to the inside of the roof so that they will pile up behind the seats. I never realized how much worms like warm wet black top. Fortunately I didn't run into any snakes or a herd of frogs...
2) Without the side covers on and no fenders you can burnish the valve covers and the worms will dry up and stick to the firewall. Snails also...
3) Some people are very entertained by the rooster tails you can throw off the back tires in wet weather...others not so much.
4) So I am widening my front Plymouth Fenders to accommodate the bigger tires I like to run and my 33 will be a "wide body"
5) I should have made my "cowl induction" hood 1" higher...The top is aligned with the bottom of the window glass, I should have set it to the top of the roof flange the window mounts on.
6) I narrowed my running boards which would have worked even better on the new chassis with the drop front tubing. Easier to exit the car.
7) My running boards are raised about 1 1/2" which gets the car on the trailer. They are just below the door swing vice under the body.

I think I'm on MKIII now
1) Started out as a Ford with bicycle fenders
2) Went to narrow Plymouth fenders with thoughts of Artillery wheels
3) After first autocross went to wide body with full fenders (in progress)

Now I'll have to sell it to get the new Frame and wider doors Geez!!

JOP33

01-26-2019, 05:54 PM

Met with the painter today for the last time before pickup (probably1-2 weeks). We had some interesting discussions regarding possibly "ghosting" the star on vehicle as well as the continued discussion of the fenders. All good conversation! The more I speak with Kory, the more I know that he is the right guy for the job. MBB Larry had lent me his Fenders (rears) so today I played around with them a bit. After emailing FFR back and forth, their Front Fenders would work with my set-up, but not the rears, so I will be going 3rd party for those. I also told Kory I would try and knock down some mold lines on the body, so I degreased and took them down (just a bit)...

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Providing the weather is nice again tomorrow, I may try to crank SM1 up one more time before sending her off!

Chris C

01-28-2019, 03:22 AM

I’ll pm you with info.

I'd also like to know about your console please.

JOP33

01-29-2019, 06:56 AM

It was two years ago Saturday that I ordered my 33' from FFR (actually let the day slip past me). When I ordered it I was so excited yet so afraid. I'd been around cars, worked on cars but never in my mind thought I could ever build a car. Some of the key aspects for moving forward with the FFR kit was first and foremost, this forum. The commitment shown by ALL of YOU (and now me ;)) to not only build your kit but to share your experiences (both good and bad) with current and future builders was the biggest key for me. I have always been one that recognizes and accepts those things that I can do well as well as those that I can not. I knew going in that there would be challenges, both big and small. I knew that there would be times that I would need the help of others. I knew there would be set-backs, frustrations, disappointments and failures, but even considering all of that, I chose to move forward mainly because the support of this forum. The second reason I chose to move on was the support of FFR and the product they provided. The responses I received to questions I had, even prior to my purchase, impressed me. As I am now two years into this process I would say that, yes we all have the days that we tend to drag our nails across the chalkboard about FFR. Whether it be design, production, delivery or support, I am sure that all of us have had our days on the "soap box", as I know I have. However, I have to say that I have been extremely impressed with the responses and interactions that I have had with the entire FFR Team. I truly believe that they recognize that their success is based on our success. The fact that this kit offered a manual with it was also a key point to me. I knew that if I had to go out and buy an existing car and piece together every component to make it what I wanted with only my direction in mind, that I would most definitely fail. Yes I recognize that the manual is just a guide, building this car is like doing a dot to dot drawing...the manual gives you the vision of what the car will be when it's completed, it gives you the direction you need to go forward, allows for some straying between the dots, but with a little logic, some good friends and a steady hand we all end up at the next dot! I guess my point is that even with the challenges of the last two years (not just building as we all have lives as well) I would do it again in a heartbeat and even knowing what I know now and learning from my experiences I would still pull that trigger with the same excitement and nervousness that I had two years ago!

HVACMAN

01-31-2019, 02:33 PM

Very well said.

sturigus83

02-02-2019, 03:05 AM

I just have to say a very nice build. I have read your build from start till now and you are no different then anyone having good and bad times and it gives you time to think and when you get over the humps you enjoy that time more because you know how you got there. Your ride will look nice after paint I cant wait to see it even though I am not a Cowboys fan I love your work and your ride. I have built a lot of hot rods and many Harleys and choppers and now it time for a FF 33. I would have had it already but my doctor stopped me and if everything goes well I will be building mine next year. I have one thing over yall I am single and retired so I can spend what I want to and work when I want to and yes I am from the south Georgia as a matter of fact but I have been to Texas many times when I was in the military. Again I love you ride and enjoy it now . By the way I like the console where can I get one I am buying parts already for my 33. Its almost time to just enjoy your ride.

JOP33

02-02-2019, 07:39 AM

I just have to say a very nice build...

sturigus83, I appreciate your kind comments and look forward to following your build. I have been absolutely blessed in life (and with my build) as my wife has been my biggest supporter. Every time I start getting a little sideways in my budget, she reminds me that I am not buying a car but the experience! I get more comments about the "Cowboys" theme than I ever thought I would...there are a lot of purest, non-football fans & Cowboy haters out there and I love it! It's a great conversation piece and it's not even painted yet! I explained it to Kory, the painter, that when I started out I had to have a theme to guide me through the process...something to keep the concept from straying from one end of the spectrum and then back to the other and so I chose a Cowboy themed hotrod! Many tell me that I won't do well at car shows because of it, that I risk someone vandalizing it and what if I intend to drive it out of the area. These are all valid concerns, but I think even if I take away the selected theme of the car, many of the concerns still exist. I am reminded about a story that one of the instructors at the build school told me about (he had built an FFR Roadster kit) and how one day he had driven his car to the grocery store only to walk of the store to see a mother with her child sitting in the front seat taking a picture. With this story (and I am sure there are many of them, in fact it would be a great thread for all to share their stories...:cool:) I was more taken aback by the fact that someone thought it was okay to put their child in a car that wasn't theirs without permission than just the thought of the child wanting to sit in the car...for heaven sakes, just ask, I am sure he would of accomodated. I guess what I am getting at is a bit of attention seems to come with the territory already, so we all have to plan accordingly for that...and I have never been one to shy away from some criticism as it has been suggested to just paint it Cowboy colors, wrap it or use a sticker or the best one was to make the star a magnet so I can take it off...I don't feel the need to have to explain the ludicrousness of that statement...And after all this being said, my biggest fear is a phone call... "Ahhhh, this is ahhh, Jerrah Jones, Imma need you to remove...and cease...and desist... and take off that star from tha outside that car and so on and so forth and etc."!

Anyway, car is not due to be picked up by the painter for another couple weeks, so the plan last night and today and tomorrow if it takes that long...is for me to pull the aluminum out of the car and place "something" between the chassis and the body. The bottom of the aluminum has been sprayed with LS Sound & Heat (and I am actually going to spray another coat of the Heat while I have it off), but I was going to either lay some high temp RTV on the chassis or maybe some rubber bumpers (thin almost like washers). I guess a lot of builders attach the panels with silicon or what have you, but my thought is that if the panels ever need to be removed, with the silicon (or the panels bonded to the chassis) the aluminum will be destroyed before you ever get them off (maybe I am wrong in this thinking). My thought was to either use some rubber bumpers (similar to what you may see in kitchen cabinets) or possibly just use a dot of RTV every so often and then let it cure before re-installing, so that the panels are not truly bonded to the chassis, after all I am using screws to attach the aluminum, so I think for the purposes of the floor being rigid and stable it will serve the same purpose. I just don't want the aluminum to rattle (as I am sure there will be plenty of other areas that offer rattles). I also have a few self-fabbed items that I am going to try and get installed this weekend...none of which will get done if I don't quit typing and go do some work (sorry for rambling on). Hope to update later tonight or tomorrow on progress!

JOP33

02-02-2019, 11:26 AM

So only four hours later I have all the aluminum that I need to take out out (and the trans tunnel and cover of course)...wasn't as bad as I thought it would be...

This is the old Passenger Floor Plate I had made to cover the auxillary fuse block(s) I installed. It was just a little too small for my liking and to protect that area, so I made a second plate that covers much better and has a slight kickout on the bottom (all will be covered with carpet eventually)...

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JOP33

02-02-2019, 04:00 PM

I decided to just go with a dab of RTV High Temp Sealant and then let it dry. Since I had the panels off and I had some leftover Lizard Skin...everything got a heaping dose of LS Ceramic. I hit the diamond shaped area that rest right above the exhaust several times...

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I will try to get everything back together tomorrow. I have few things I want to check for tight tonight since I have the aluminum off.

JOP33

02-11-2019, 08:02 AM

I did get the aluminum back in last weekend and for the most part it went back in fairly easy. One thing I did add (and difficult to see in the photo) is I cut and placed some rubber gasket material under the aluminum where the e-brake goes passes thru the floor. Once I had the floor back in over the rubber, I slit it to allow for the clevis to pass through. I just thought this might help keep moisture and dust from entering...

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Additionally, I will add that in the beginning I drilled and tapped holes in the chassis for the aluminum and used 10-32 machine screws to hold everything in place. When I installed the aluminum this time (hopefully for the last time) I went back with #12 Self Piercing Screws and these seem to hold very well. I don't know that they will hold up to a lot of R/R, but I was finding that the machine screws weren't holding up that well either, so we will have to see with these (I believe that #10 would have worked if I had not gone with the 10-32's prior)...

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I had also been back and forth on being able to adjust the seats. I am 5'11" and will probably need to do some adjusting to get the brake pedal in the right (more comfortable...you lucky Gen 2 guys) position. When it's all said and done, I can't see there being more than about 2" either direction (front to back) in my set-up, but if need be, I wanted to be able to adjust for that, so while I had the seats out I came up with a viable solution. I took some 3/4" square tube (same size as the seat frames), cut them to 11" long and then drilled holes along them at 1" intervals. I then took and 11ga steel plate 6" x 12" and drilled it out to match the existing holes in the aluminum and chassis. I then welded (2) of the the tubes to the plate and the other (2) to the bottom of the seat frame. In the end this raised the seat almost an inch and allows me to shift the seat forward and backwards however I need to. It cost me about $30 in material, but it did take about 8 hours of my time...

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JOP33

02-11-2019, 08:03 AM

cont'd...

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AJT '33

02-11-2019, 08:19 AM

cont'd...

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Going to follow this as I need to have the drivers side adjustable fore and aft. Will possibly be using this concept for the mount even though from a height standpoint I should be fine (but could use the additional bit of height. THX!

Straversi

02-11-2019, 09:13 AM

Clever. That’s a great idea.
-Steve

JOP33

02-12-2019, 08:31 AM

Yeah, the most time consuming part was drilling the holes. Anyone with access to a Bridgeport or CNC Mill could knock this out pretty quickly (ours were full at work). And honestly, all you really need is about (6) holes in each tube, (1) location for nominal, (1) for forward and (1) for aft, that gives you an inch of travel either way. You could adjust the spacing on the holes to give you more with a minimal amount of work.

MBB Larry

02-14-2019, 01:24 PM

I am fortunate to live about 20 minutes from Jamie. I am about 6-months into my build, and have become good friends with Jamie. I can tell you, he has done a beautiful job with
his build. It is an inspiration and motivation for me. I tried to tell him Eagles Green with an Eagle on the side would look nice, but did not go over!?!?! Living in "Cowboy Country", and spending of $$$$$$ on an Eagle paint job, would not be a good idea!?!?
Your getting closer Jamie!!! Great Job!
Larry

wrp

02-14-2019, 09:48 PM

You need to come up to 121 with Jamie sometime. I'd love to meet you. Maybe we could get TDSapp out too.

JOP33

02-15-2019, 06:53 AM

You need to come up to 121 with Jamie sometime. I'd love to meet you. Maybe we could get TDSapp out too.

This sounds like a great idea...once Kory has my car, I'll be up there at least once a week.

MBB Larry

02-15-2019, 11:09 AM

There are getting to be enough of us in North TX to start up a Club, and have some meetings. And hopefully some Cruises in the near future.

JOP33

02-15-2019, 08:08 PM

Finally got the fit-up done on the fab cover for the solenoid. I will have chromed Monday, but wanted to confirm fit before doing so. My design, but I can't take the credit for forming or weld (I can weld in a pinch, but not when aesthetics are of importance). I think it will look sharp once chromed...

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Hope to do a little more work and then start organizing parts to handover to painter next week :cool:! Might even try to get out to Autorama tomorrow.

JOP33

02-18-2019, 07:13 AM

I was able to get a few more small things done this weekend. As mentioned previously, the car is scheduled to go to the Painters this next weekend. I know that by looking at the current state of the car, some may think that I still have a ways to go before paint, but with my build the challenge I was willing to accept was getting the engine in, started and the car rolling. I do have a background in Automotive Collision Repair and Refinishing, however that was many, many years ago and the advancement in the process, product and technologies surpassed my level of comfort about two decades ago. So this accompanied by the two previous back surgeries I have had with the possibility of a third looming in the near future drove the decision to leave the fit-up of the body, doors, etc. to the experts (..."stay in your lane Bro", right). The shop that I chose is more than capable of doing a great job as they have worked on a previous 33' and did an awesome job (WRP's 33'). The challenge now will become not straying from the plan and letting the professionals do their job! Anyway, back to this last weekend, so at the risk of additional overkill and the fact that I had the seats out, I added some Thermo-Gard as a top layer to the Lizard Skin, DEI heat shielding and FFR heat & sound barrier. I know, I know it's overkill right? I just thought that adding the additional protection at this point is the best option. If I never notice the difference in not having it then its done its job and in the scheme of things it was easy to lay down and relatively in-expensive. In some areas I just used some velcro dots, in other areas I just used a small dollop of RTV. The intent was to still be able to remove this if need be without destroying it. The sheet came 48" x 72" and for the most part I was able to cover the entire passenger compartment. It is easy to work with although I would suggest a good pair of scissors opposed to a box cutter or exacto knife...

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JOP33

02-18-2019, 07:32 AM

I tried something around the auxiliary fuse block to see if it would work (I will report back as it is still drying, however I am hopeful). I had an area on either side that I wanted to insulate a bit, so I took some 3mil plastic and persuaded it into the area as best as I could then I sprayed (cautiously) some spray foam and allowed it to expand into the areas. My hope is that after trimming the face down, I will have some foam inserts that can be pulled out if needed. I'll have see how concept and theory transition into reality, but at this point I am still hopeful...

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JimLev

02-18-2019, 09:15 AM

That extra insulation should be well worth it come summer. I did the same with more DEI and Thermo Gard.
I have more insulation arriving any day now to put in the doors, in front of the fuel tank, and in between the door hinge and the front of the rear wheels.
Probably should add some to the roof too.

JOP33

02-19-2019, 07:07 AM

Just as a bit of a follow up, the foam insulation experiment concluded last night. I'm not going to call it a success but not a failure either. I believe with the right process and a little warmer temperatures this would be a viable solution to the area I was working on. The product trimmed up relatively easy with a hacksaw blade. I should have done the application in gradual layers opposed to trying to fill the area at one time, but all in all a good learning experience and I will possibly try it again...

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In an effort to just try to cover the chassis through transport this weekend, I just picked up a (relatively) in-expensive car cover from the local top of the mountain auto parts store. I started with the 13-14 foot length and it was too small, so went back and jumped up two sizes and then one seems quite big, but will do the job (and the body and hardtop are not on). For the purpose of transport it will only be covering the chassis, my long term hopes are to go with a Coverking or something a little higher end, but the cover seems to be decent quality and serve a purpose and it was cost effective. It also has straps and eyelets to use for tying...

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I also temporarily fit-up the lower trunk brace I had fabbed to help stiffen that area. The verdict is still out on this and I will know more once the body is on...

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JOP33

02-22-2019, 06:41 AM

Today and tomorrow will be the last push to get things in order before the Painter picks up the car on Saturday evening. As of right now, it's been hands-off on the car and spending more time prepping and organizing the parts for Kory (as his time will be my money). Going to start the car up one final time tonight or tomorrow and then continue with some final prep. I also have a few parts to pick up from Polisher/Chromer later today.

JOP33

02-22-2019, 09:23 PM

A few days ago I had dropped off the AC Accumulator & a Cover Bracket (for Polishing) I had made for it as well as a Solenoid Cover (for Chroming) I had Fabbed. Today I picked those up and was extremely happy with how they turned out. Once I got them home and went ahead an re-installed them...

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progmgr1

02-23-2019, 03:52 PM

Those parts really came out nice! Well done! Keith

JOP33

02-24-2019, 07:15 AM

Yesterday was just a roller coaster of emotions...the day started by knowing that it would be the last day (for a while) that SM1 would be gracing the shadows of it's home, but knowing that when it does return that it will be all that I had envisioned! But what would any important planned event such as this be without a little reality to start your day (right?). I had gotten up early (extremely) to finish getting things laid out for Kory and his team (whom by the way continues to prove that he is the perfect shop to complete this build for me). So after rearranging a few things, I moved some vehicles around (notably, Star Mobile 2 or the vehicle formerly known as Star Mobile 1...:rolleyes:). After that I went to start the vehicle up, Fuel Pump coming on but only registering 20-25 psi at gauge. After texting Kory, asking if he thought we'd still be able to get it on the trailer if it wasn't running, I started doing some rushed trouble shooting...I started by checking for leaks, none...then wire connections, the positive on the FP seemed loose, so I tightened the nut down only to break the positive stud off! Well actually it just shortened it a bit, so there was still enough stud that I could get a nut on. After tightening it down, I cranked it again with the same result, only about 20 psi. By this time, Kory had texted letting me know they were on their way, so then my focus became getting the vehicle out of the lift area and prepped to be pushed on to the trailer. However, in the back of my mind I am boiling...first, how did I get to this point where I didn't confirm the start of the vehicle after the last Fuel Pump issue and secondly, why am I having to deal with what seems to be a second Fuel Pump issue :mad:! Needless to say, at this point I was ready to turn it over to Kory and let him confirm the problem and offer some suggestions (back to this in a bit). Kory arrived with his guys and we were able to get the car loaded on the trailer without too much issue. He was having to take the chassis and body and the two had not been mated up yet and there was some prepping I had done (door frames, gauges, etc) that was going to make putting the body on for the travel a little more challenging or require a second trip. Luckily he had prepared for this and brought a truck that they were able to place the body in and then load the chassis onto the trailer...

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About two and half hours later, SM1 arrived safely at 121 Rod & Restoration thanks to the efforts of Kory and his buddies! Thanks guys! I followed shortly after with some additional body parts and miscellaneous hardware and manuals, stayed for a bit and headed back to the house. By the time I was pulling up to the house, Kory was texting me..."Fuel Pump is bad", so now I have a second Holley Fuel Pump that has gone out on me with less than about 20 minutes of run time on the total of both. I have asked Kory to confirm the current set-up as well to make sure it is not my routing, a kink, etc. that is causing the issue.

So the day was very bitter-sweet...but after all this is car building, right?...and the day couldn't have gone any other way!

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wrp

02-24-2019, 07:20 PM

Congratulations on getting to this point in your build

JOP33

02-25-2019, 07:13 PM

You know part of building a car is not only enjoying the build but sharing your frustrations, agitations and idiocracy...:confused::p:mad:! With that being said, Kory texted last night stating that "there was no fuel in the tank"! And you know what makes this worse is the fact that he asked me at his shop if I had fuel in the tank to which I quickly stated "yeah, I've put three gallons in". Of course after thinking about it all day, that was several months ago, prior to go carting and before changing out the last Fuel Pump, factor in some evaporation and all I can say is what an idiot I am, relieved that it's not another fuel pump but just a pure example of stupidity! I thought I'd share this with ya'll as it's the start of another week and we can all use a good laugh to start the week! Stay tuned...

JOP33

02-28-2019, 06:48 AM

I am planning a trip to the local mountain top parts store, so I reached out to Kory yesterday to let him know I would be there if he needed anything. He called me back a few minutes later and suggested, that all though the flexible fuel lines I ran are of good quality and they may last a year or twenty, that I may want to go with Nicopp hardlines instead. Since the body covers the area around the fuel tank and all that leads to and from the tank I really agree with this suggestion and looking back, probably should have done this earlier on myself (after all FFR sends hard lines with the kit, they were the wrong size for the EFI, but they are supplied). My thought process at that time was first, based on the challenges I faced flaring and getting the brake lines ran (I have asked him to re-run those as well) that I really wanted to go with a simple solution (or my idea of a simple solution) and for me that was the flexible lines. Secondly, as the name states, they are flexible...no bending. This is truly a learning experience for me, even more so now that the car is in professionals hands. And I know I have probably overstated this already, but I could have taken this vehicle to many body shops capable of doing the body work and paint, however I continue to be impressed with Kory and his team as they look at the complete build of the car. I mean ultimately, all anyone is going to see is the paint on the outside of the car, but if the car can't make it down the road...the paint tends to be a little less impressive when the car is on the back of tiltbed tow truck. Anyway, I will try to keep ya'll updated on this continued learning experience and hopefully it will offer at least a bit of enlightenment down the way for someone!

Thanks

JOP33

03-01-2019, 03:29 PM

Looks like Kory and his team are making some headway already...

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JOP33

03-02-2019, 06:41 PM

I had to take a few more parts out to Kory's shop today, they had temporarily placed the body on...

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Next weekend I will try to get the final piece (the hardtop) out to him.

JOP33

03-08-2019, 06:49 AM

Just a bit of an update here on the build...I have to give MBB Larry and his buddy credit on this one. Neither one of us were too keen on the whole rivnut in the body to attach the firewall, so we talked about fabricating a Retainer Ring that had floating nuts in it that would install on the passenger compartment side of the body at the firewall, then you could match drill the holes through the firewall aluminum and (in this case) attach with with Chrome Button Head screws. Larry and one of his Helicopter buddies did a great job fabricating the piece and Kory and his team installed. I'm making a trip out the shop tomorrow to take the final piece (Hardtop) out there, so I will try and get some additional feedback from Kory on the fit-up...

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JOP33

03-09-2019, 05:55 PM

Ran out to Kory's shop today to drop off the Hardtop. I was able to get a few more pics of the Firewall Retainer Ring and where he made some adjustments to the hard lines for the fuel. Also picked up the back ordered AC vent...

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JOP33

03-15-2019, 05:44 AM

A couple more pics from 121 R & R...

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JOP33

03-16-2019, 06:36 PM

Made the weekly Pilgrimage out to the shop today. Here are some updated pics of the progress...

Starting to look more like a hotrod (and the fenders don't look too bad after all, but we'll still need to trim them up a bit)...
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Kory showed me where they had to move the battery from I originally had placed it due to interference with the trunk and hinges. I had originally placed it longitudinally against the passenger side wall of the trunk. They move it over toward the center a bit and up against the rear wall...
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They also changed out the stock FFR Brake Reservoirs I had installed as I had later opted for the one-piece billet aluminum duplex reservoir...
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Kory also cut down the Brake threaded rods to allow for about 1-1/2" to 2" of adjustment in the brake pedal...
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They also cut-in the area behind the firewall with Silver paint...
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I am extremely happy with the progress Kory and his team are making...
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In talking with him before I left today, he hopes to be able to get possibly the doors and rear fenders on so that maybe next week we can play around with taping off some fender trims!

JOP33

03-20-2019, 07:01 AM

Saw where Kory had posted some updated photos of the car, so I thought I would pass them along...

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JOP33

03-28-2019, 05:49 AM

Didn't make it out to the shop last weekend but hoping to get by there this week. Here are a couple updated photos from Kory...

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JOP33

03-30-2019, 03:49 PM

I did make it out to the shop this morning. Good progress over the last two weeks.

Both doors are at least on (still some work to be done on the driver's side, but they are fit in the body at this point)...
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Also, the firewall is attached through the body now...
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Kory mentioned there is a lot of work to be done this next week on the deck lid alone. There is a significant amount of bowing in all directions of the trunk that will require some kerf cutting and reglassing in areas. They will also be using Tim Whittaker's braces...
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The Side Aluminum in the trunk had to be removed to allow for the body to fit where it needed to as well. They will need to notch the trunk hinge arms as well as they hit the fuel tank currently. I think I possibly could have installed the tank a little off-centered to one-side causing that issue...
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Hoping to have the trunk fit up this next week and possibly the hood on, if things go really well!

JOP33

04-11-2019, 06:36 AM

Not a lot to update from last week, but the trunk did get fit-up...and that in itself was a challenge according to the shop. For those of you that are doing your on panel fit-up, body work and paint...I applaud you for taking on that challenge! Ya'll have a true understanding of how much work is truly involved in getting the body of this vehicle set. If nothing else, I hope as FFR updates & modifies areas of the 33' (Gen 2, etc), that the amount of time (and money) that has to be spent prepping these vehicles for paint is impacted in positive way significantly. Just a few things outside of fit-up at the shop that are going on right now...I really wanted to do something different with the headlights on the vehicle. I thought they were a little too big, I wanted to go LED and also would like to be able to mount them a little lower on the vehicle. Kory and I went back and forth with some ideas in the beginning and he came up with the possibility of using some Motorcycle lights (Headwinds). I played around with some drawings and dimensions and finally ordered some Headwind Headlights, but for the Hot Rod. Kory and his team will be challenged with designing a way to mount them, but in the end I know they will do an awesome job and I really think it will set the car apart from others. I also just received the exhaust tips that I am going with on the car. Staying withe the Cowboy theme...they had to be stars! Finally, I played around a bit this weekend in my CAD software and came up a pretty close rendering to the finished product (with Fenders, Mirrors, Lights).

Headlight Concept...
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Exhuast...
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Star Mobile 1 Rendering...
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TxMike64

04-11-2019, 08:53 AM

Nice! What CAD software are you using?

I considered that exact same set of Headwinds headlights!

JOP33

04-11-2019, 09:15 AM

Nice! What CAD software are you using?

I considered that exact same set of Headwinds headlights!

For the easy stuff, I use DraftSight (freeware and a really good CAD package)...for the more difficult stuff, SolidWorks.

JOP33

04-13-2019, 04:36 PM

Made it out to 121 R & R for an update this week...not a lot of sexy things going on, meaning the details that Kory and his team are working through now don't really make for good pics, but I took some anyway :p. This week they went ahead and sound dampened the doors before they started getting too cluttered with the window parts. They also had to extend the striker mount a bit. They are trying to reduce as much weight from the workings of the "shaved" door handles as possible. Kory has mentioned several times that he really prefers to put the solenoid for the pull actually in the chassis opposed to in the door, but in this application there is just no room to do this, so it will go in the door. They were able to get the strikers and latches in and doors close nicely! Also installed the jamb pins for wiring. They have also started the prep work for the roadster windshield. Kory is suppose to be receiving a mock-up headlight so that they can move forward with the engine side panel fit-up and creating a mounting bracket for the new headlights which should arrive late this week or early next week...

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The plan is to cut the windows for the M/C Covers then create a fiberglass underlayment in the cowl area. I am then going to recut the covers out of a material equal to that of the fiberglass, so the covers will then set flush in the cowl area. I will try to get those cut this week.

wrp

04-14-2019, 02:50 AM

I enjoyed watching the fiberglass prep come along. I was particularly excited to see the transition from initial primer to final prep.

JOP33

04-18-2019, 08:15 AM

Will try to make it up to the shop today...I have re-cut the Master Cylinder Covers out of 1/8" Aluminum to allow for the guys to recess the cover flush with the body opposed to sitting on top of the fiberglass. Apparently there can sometimes be some interference with the hood. I also think I have made the final decision on colors. I had selected the colors on line, but wanted to confirm in person so the local Automotive Finish shop loaned me their color chip spread. Will confirm with Kory today and also find out his source for paint and have them match.

M/C Covers...
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Cowboy Blue, White & Silver (not really, but for this purpose I will stay with it :rolleyes:)...
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JOP33

04-19-2019, 07:43 AM

I did make it by the shop yesterday and saw some really good progress. The roadster windshield had been previously located, so this week they cut the access panels for the M/C Covers and installed the Hardtop. They also re-installed the rear fenders and I believe we are extremely close to making the bob cuts. They also fab'd custom headlight brackets for the Headwind Headlights we will be installing. They also started knocking down the mold lines and doing some seam filling. The Hood and Engine Side Panels are just resting on the vehicle at this point until the Headlight Brackets get mounted in place...

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JOP33

04-27-2019, 05:48 PM

So another good week of progress from 121 Rod & Restoration this week. Since the Headwinds Headlights have been delayed slightly (the Chromer that Headwinds uses ran over the turn signal and crushed it, so they had to remake), Abel and Kory focused on some other areas of the car this week. For starters, we decided last weekend to do something different with the tail lights (this was Kory's idea actually, but I fell in love with it pretty quickly). Kory suggested the 39' Ford Tear Drop lights. Initially we had talked about installing with the tail down (in the more conventional way), however today I was actually able to spend a little time playing around with the lights on the rear and I have to say I am pretty partial to placing the tail up. I am sure I will look at the pics a few hundred times between now and Monday and as always I'd love to hear feedback from ya'll as well on the subject. Anyway, Abel moved forward with cutting out the factory locations for the lights and then used the cut aways to fill the pockets. He also cut out the locations for the door pulls that we are putting in the doors. Last week I had re-cut some 1/8" aluminum M/C Covers that would allow for them to sit flush against the cowl. This week Abel created the under-layment lip that will hold the covers flush as well as cut and installed the defrost vents.

39' Ford Tail Light...
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39' Ford Mini Zephyr Light...
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Factory locations cut out...
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Factory locations filled...
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My tentative pick for the tail lights...
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M/C Covers & Lip work...
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JOP33

04-27-2019, 05:49 PM

cont'd...

Door Pull cut outs...
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Vent cuts & install...
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FF33rod

04-27-2019, 08:03 PM

Getting there!
The AC/heater kit has cheap black plastic defrost vents but yours look a little nicer, are they metal?

JOP33

04-27-2019, 09:41 PM

Summit Racing...63100-VUQ, aluminum

Getting there!
The AC/heater kit has cheap black plastic defrost vents but yours look a little nicer, are they metal?

JOP33

05-04-2019, 05:52 PM

Just a few items worth mentioning this week. Kory and Abel got the new cutouts done and the 39' tail lights installed and I really like this look!

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I had held them up on the inside door handles as apparently when I purchase the handles I only purchased the handles and not the cables required for connection. I went back to Autolok on them and they were back ordered so far back they couldn't even give me a date, so I had to roll the dice and go with a Lokar cross-reference and I believe they worked out ok...

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Kory and I are in early discussions about a safety pin to secure the doors as well...will update as we figure that out.

Another part of the car that I was really excited about was the Headwind Headlights...man they did a great job and these things are going to look outstanding once mounted and then the grill is chromed...

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Then Engine Side Panels are on for the time being, but the support brackets for the headlights will have to go under them, so they will need to come off again for that and the hood is really just sitting on the vehicle at this point...

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AJT '33

05-06-2019, 08:46 AM

I will be following and looking to see what you do as a safety pin as that is one item that i still need to resolve as the bought ones really done work like I want.

wrp

05-06-2019, 08:52 AM

Looking great

JOP33

05-06-2019, 06:47 PM

Going with electric locks from Carolina Customs...will follow up with more details on the "how" soon

http://www.carolinacustom.com/pages/product_pages/suicide_door_safety_pin_kits/suicide_door_safety_pin_kits_page.jsp

JOP33

05-11-2019, 03:52 PM

I know that most of ya'll understand the concept of "no" or "little visual update"...meaning that work has transpired but it may appear as if progress has not be made. There are sooooo many little things that go into getting this vehicle "Paint" ready. I understood that in the beginning, but I have so much of a greater appreciation for that now. Kory and his team seem to think of everything. Every week I make a list of discussion points...things that I feel are on the horizon in the build. About halfway into my visit at the shop Kory or Abel have covered my list without me even mentioning a thing. By the time the visit is over, the only thing left I have to discuss is how crappy the weather is! Anyway, the point I am making is that each week I look forward to what Kory and his team have accomplished the week prior and each week I continue to be impressed with the thought they are putting into the completion of my build. The pics that are shown here just don't do justice to the time, effort and thought that are going into the "behind the scenes" work.

So this week, the Hood was installed and mounted. One of the points Kory brought up was that by going with the Extra Clearance Hood, the stiffeners that typically run down the middle of the underside of the hood (and allow for the mounting of the Hood Prop) are not there...will need to figure this out soon! The latch for the Hood as well as the Hood Release were also installed. The Hood Release is mounted very close to where the manual shows to mount (I tried to get a picture but it didn't turn out), which is right under the dash very close to the drivers side door. I also like how the flush M/C Covers turned out and allow for the Hood to sit flush on the cowl. The Engine Side Panels were both installed too. Abel said he is going to have to shave a bit off the inside of the Grill lip to allow for the Engine Side Panel to sit flush with the surface of the Grill side. Kory also mentioned that he may set the Headlights up with a plate behind the Side Panel and plugs, so that in the event the Side Panels do need to be removed, the Headlights will just come off with them. We are going to have to move the mount location for the Headlights back just a bit to get them away from the edge of the Grill, which I actually think will look better than where I had them in the pics from last week. They are also going to install a small spring at the nose of where the Grill and Hood meet to allow just a bit of a push when the Hood Release is pulled. They received the Door Safety Lock Pins yesterday, so we discussed the location of these too. Since I opted for the Electric Lock Pins (much more bulky) there is not a lot of space to install these. They will actually be mounted below the Door Frame (in the door) and then when actuated will stab into the Striker area in the Body portion of the door. By mounting in this area it will still allow for the room that will be required for the Windows and Regulator...

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JOP33

05-11-2019, 03:54 PM

cont'd...

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AJT '33

05-13-2019, 07:11 AM

As soon as you have pics of the electric door lock installed i would like to see how they did it as this is still a sticking point with me on mine!

JOP33

05-16-2019, 07:17 AM

Did receive some feedback from Tony @ FFR regarding the location of the Prop Rod on the Extra Clearance Hood...he referenced the Flame car where he attached the Hood Prop on the fire wall so the pivot point was on the driver's side. He also suggest placing it on the Engine Side Panel on the return flange, if you are not removing them. AJT '33 posted some similar information about this on his build page post #231) and actually has some pics of the car... https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26293-Black-amp-Copper-33-Hot-Rod-1028/page6

wrp

05-16-2019, 11:16 PM

I love the tail lights

JOP33

05-19-2019, 07:34 AM

Here is the weekly update...Tim Whittaker's Deck Lid Stiffeners were used on the trunk. Abel was inset them into the trunk with some panel bond then used screws on the top side to fine-tune the adjustment. These seemed to add some rigidity to the trunk and everything will clean-up nicely in final prep...

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JOP33

05-19-2019, 07:36 AM

The highlight of the week for me was seeing the Headwinds installed on the car...to me they just compliment the grill of the car so well (lots of pics here, so be patient)...

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JOP33

05-19-2019, 07:41 AM

Finally, Kory and I are toying around with a few ideas regarding the hood as well, but I am not committed to doing anything (or nothing) as of yet...I need to visualize a few things first...Will post more when I have an update...

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Hoping for final trunk latch fit-up, the chin install (which Kory suggest may be a pain) and crossing my fingers on some fender trimming too this week (really want to see the car with the fenders cut).

wrp

05-19-2019, 09:27 AM

I love the headlights. They really pop

duff33

05-19-2019, 09:32 AM

Looking great, you have to be proud

TxMike64

05-19-2019, 01:08 PM

Headlights look awesome!

JOP33

05-24-2019, 04:52 PM

My weekly trek to Trenton came a day early this week as I took off today. Lot's of work done this week by Kory and Abel...but first my contribution was purchasing a set of 2" Mustang Wheel Adapters to push the rear tires out a bit. We will still trim the fenders back some to take a little more of the curvature out of it, but this definitely gets the tires out further. Back story...I really liked these wheels and they kept me in my budget when it came to tires and wheels, so I was at the mercy of what Cragar offered in these. The offset was a little different than what FFR had suggested, so I ultimately went with the adapters. Definitely not the first option, but will check them for torque often. I really like the look now within the fenders and from the rear (no cuts on the fenders as of yet though)...

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Did not expect for Abel to have the Windows in this week, but with the install of the safety locks, I guess it made sense to confirm clearance. I don't know this for a fact, but I think Abel might have been cussing me all week long for going with the electronic safety locks :p! (manual pins would have taken up much less space) He said there was a lot of modifications to the Carolina Custom safety pins that had to occur and in the end there was only one location for them and that was in the front lower portion of the door. Even then he had to take apart the entire mounting plate and make some mods to several of the components for everything to work. When it was all said and done it looks great and I believe will function well. You can see how close the manual safety rod ends up being to the jamb and Abel did his best bring this up some, but there seems to be enough room for the teardrop knob (if we end up using it). You can also see where the pin will engage the jamb below the striker. You can see from the pics some of the mods that Abel performed on the window set-up as well. I had originally purchased the FFR power windows (by the way make sure you check the glass under the paper as I believe mine may have a few scratches in it...but I will follow up with FFR on this later) then purchased Dan Ruths set-up as well. I turned both over to Kory and Abel and told them to use whatever they needed from either to create the best solution for the windows and I believe that is exactly what they have done. Not shown in the pics (as they are not installed yet) are the vertical tracks for either side of the window..

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