Star Mobile 1 Build [Archive] - Page 4

JOP33

02-21-2020, 05:59 AM

Funny you should say that Steve...Over the last few weeks, I have been in contact with a Texas Rod publication - Busted Knuckle Rod & Truck Magazine (Bill Price sent them my way, thanks WRP ;)). At the show this last weekend we discussed further and firmed up a shooting for issue 12. They just needed me to come up with a location for the shoot. On Monday morning I randomly reached out to The Star in Frisco (Cowboys HQ) asking to see if they might allow me to bring the vehicle out there for a magazine shoot. On Wednesday, they confirmed that they were circling the request internally and assuming they could get all approved wanted to know dates and times and if the magazine would be providing their own photographer. Late yesterday they said they were running down a few last open issues and should have an answer to me next week!

Now the fan in me thinks - this is absolutely awesome! :cool:

However the cynical, home-grown, Texas-boy in me thinks - oh that should give them just enough time to get the lawyers involved :mad:

I guess either way I will be on their radar!

JOP33

02-27-2020, 01:30 PM

As a follow up to my last post...both statements were true! The Star has formally approved my request and will grant me access to the South Side of their plaza for a photo shoot pending the photographer signing a Location Release that basically allows him to maintain the rights to the photos and assure the Star that we will not hold them responsible for damage to my car or his equipment! Still very cool! Just have to lock in the date and time so they can have security assist us. Will be shooting in the area shown below...

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FF33rod

02-27-2020, 01:38 PM

Excellent, what a great venue. look forward to seeing the pics
Steve

JOP33

02-29-2020, 07:57 AM

Getting ready for Caffeine & Classics this morning! Not sure there’s room for caffeine though 123356

sethmark

02-29-2020, 08:15 AM

Jamie that car is Leroy Brown. Don’t need the stuff!!!!

JOP33

02-29-2020, 07:40 PM

Jamie that car is Leroy Brown. Don’t need the stuff!!!!

My car may be Leroy Brown...but me and my back are Archie Bunker, I needs them chairs (or at least one)!

JOP33

03-02-2020, 04:04 PM

Here are a couple Dash Cam videos. Not the best quality, but I only invested $35, just to see if I would actually use one...will upgrade if I end up using it quite a bit.

https://youtu.be/afFSkK-KstM

https://youtu.be/7bKe9jBplec

sethmark

03-02-2020, 04:33 PM

Cool! Burnouts for distance are fun to watch.

JOP33

03-19-2020, 05:37 PM

Been a week or so since posting and it has literally been raining for an entire week here! Started out last week basically washing out the entire Good Guys Show. I got the car back on Tuesday before the show from having the Paint Protection Film put on the Fenders and noticed the car running rough the entire drive home. Mainly idling at lights, but a few times hesitating along the drive. The car was due for its first oil change, so I decided to go ahead and check and change the plugs too. Things did appear a little rich, but I did go ahead and replace them (I know fixing the symptom not the issue, but at that point I was still planning on driving into the show). I also thought maybe I had gotten hold of some bad gas. I have been running the HO Fuel (not the Ethynol Free, but the HO) and the car has been running great. It's just like overnight it started the rough idling at start-up (dying actually a couple of times) and then during the drive I would have to either shift to park or neutral and give a little gas to keep it going. Even after the plug change it still seemed to be running about the same. I am running the Sniper EFI, so I took the hand held out and it was showing about 650 at idle. I thought this was a little low so I bumped it up to 850 (I checked my original setting from Engine Factory and it was set at 1050 then). This seemed to help a little, but today I was able to finally get it out on the road again - it seems to run fine under acceleration on the road (no more hesitation or at least that I noticed), but still runs a little rough at lights or slow downs. I had to disconnect the battery for Autorama, so I don't know if maybe the original settings were lost. I have reached out to Holley on this, but given the current state of things, I don't expect a response very quickly. If ya'll have any ideas on this let me know. As of right now the Photo Shoot for Busted Knuckle Magazine is still on at the Star next week. I plan on trailering it over and then driving back...but we'll see. Weather and virus for the time being has pretty much halted any shows, but would still like to get it out on the road some.

Idling in Park (@ 650)...https://youtu.be/p7qt3cwjgDI

Idling in Neutral (@ 650)...https://youtu.be/KmX9Rb1FuAA

Idling in Drive (@ 650)...https://youtu.be/NREqTMqg6aY

Here is the dash cam video from today (my apologies as sound didn't capture, so just video)... https://youtu.be/1raJ_d2Pcno

Plugs...124363

Also before the show was suppose to be last week, I was able to finish off a cover for my battery. I had the "Floating Star" 3d printed for $5...

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JOP33

03-25-2020, 05:08 PM

Was able to sneak in the photo shoot for Busted Knuckle Magazine out at the Star before the "Shelter in Place" directive. Very few people (as expected), but still a lot of fun...should be in next months issue.

Offloading at the Star...
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Appears that I am breaking into my own car there...Security!
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Getting into position...
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Rich Arthur, Photographer for BK..
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Ford in a Ford...right!
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JOP33

03-25-2020, 05:42 PM

Got the car out today for a little drive. Nothing too exciting, but the car ran and sounded great!

https://youtu.be/OAkITzON8lc

FF33rod

03-25-2020, 08:27 PM

Oh man, make me want to go for a cruise so bad. Through the video I kept waiting for you to open it up a bit!

Steve

JOP33

03-26-2020, 06:27 AM

Oh man, make me want to go for a cruise so bad. Through the video I kept waiting for you to open it up a bit!

Steve

Was hoping to myself, but apparently there are a lot of "Essentials" out there (or they could all just be driving around in their cars) :p

JOP33

03-27-2020, 05:29 AM

I had the car out again yesterday and was going to attempt a Live Drive on Facebook...;)...I am by no means a Facebook expert. Apparently I had the phone turned the wrong way and the entire video was turned 90 degrees! I have since deleted and will attempt again at some point. Other than that it was a good drive and take...I only cussed once on video, when I was doing 85 in a 70 and came up on a motorcycle cop! Will post the new video when I get it all figured out.

JOP33

04-01-2020, 03:37 PM

Rolled across 1000 Miles today! Car continues to perform great!

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sethmark

04-01-2020, 03:52 PM

That’s great!! I’m so glad it’s not a trailer queen. I hit 400 myself on Sunday. It’s a much better car than I anticipated.

JOP33

04-01-2020, 05:05 PM

That’s great!! I’m so glad it’s not a trailer queen. I hit 400 myself on Sunday. It’s a much better car than I anticipated.

It really is! The ride is not a prize fight (your not beat up too bad) and honestly from my perspective I still have some adjustments that may help things out, but saving those until fall. I could have probably done a better job of blocking off some of the air-flow from the engine compartment to the passenger compartment...it can get hot (and right now I am having some issues with my AC, so it isn't helping). I think I had mentioned on FB yesterday though, I can drive down the highway at 75-80 with the radio playing and listen to it comfortably. I don't find myself overwhelmed with the exhaust sound. The weather is still relatively mild right now and I am running at about 180 with the AC off. It will be interesting to see where that pegs at in the Summer Heat with AC. I am bit surprised (although I shouldn't be) by the drive in the wind (headwind & crosswind). I liken it to riding a motorcycle (in a heavy breeze), you find yourself compensating to one side. I haven't experienced some of the bump-steer issues that others have mentioned (and our roads are not forgiving). The Paint Protection Film on the fenders was just a no brainer for me and money sooooo well spent...it allows me to just get out and drive. I come back home, hit it with some M34 and a Microfiber and it's ready for the next drive. I have been checking everything (on the rack) at regular intervals and so far I have not seen any issues. I changed oil and plugs at 500 miles. I am running 93 octane fuel and getting about 10-11mpg (and probably still running a bit rich). For me (I have had two back surgeries), it's about a 100 mile ride - meaning I am good for about 100 miles, then I need to get out and stretch a bit. I truly still don't understand how ya'll fit that clutch pedal in there? I have absolutely no issues with the ride height or hitting the lower grill. The car doesn't seem to have quite the punch off the line as I had anticipated which makes me think it still needs some dialing in...but don't get me wrong it moves. I also really like the look of the car with the hardtop and to be honest with you, I almost wished I would have just made it permanent.

sethmark

04-01-2020, 05:46 PM

As a roadster, with the shorty exhaust, I happen to agree strongly that the noise isn’t too bad. It will scream if asked, but is fine off idle at highway speeds. I can do 70 all day EASY. It’s effortless.

Ride compliance is about what I anticipated. I keep thinking about 18s or 20s, but the 16s give me a lot of sidewall flex. First gear in my car is hard to lay power down from a stop, but it pulls like a freight train if you roll
into
it. 2nd and 3rd are madness. Just instant speed.

JOP33

04-07-2020, 07:24 PM

Busted Knuckle Cover
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=3419090438120058&set=a.142682319094236&type=3&theater

Star Mobile One Walk-Around
https://youtu.be/KwYP3Eo2h-A

JOP33

04-09-2020, 06:06 AM

I have been working on mounting a second battery on the car. This is more a battery of convenience for running the monitor I use for Car Shows (if they ever start having them again). This dry cell battery can be mounted in any orientation and is meant to be cycled down hundreds of time. My intent is not to connect it into the cars electrical system - I will still charge off a charger when needed and I have no direct pull into the system. By having the battery on board, the video monitor can be placed in the trunk at shows and run for ~16 hours uninterrupted, more of nicety than necessity. First admission - yes this would have been much easier to accomplish prior to finishing the car, second admission - yes I would have made access through the trunk floor which would have been a little more convenient. In the end, it essentially stores a second battery without having to lug it around.
I built the frame for it out of 1/8" x 1" x 1" Steel Angle and then used some 3/8" Tubing for the retaining bolts. I tacked it up, fit it into place for mock-up, confirmed fit and clearance, then finished the welding, dressed the welds (as best I could) and then sprayed it with some rubberized undercoating. I did a final install on it, placed the battery in it and confirmed clearance. My concern here was the clearance around the differential pumpkin during movement and although it does appear close in the photos, it does clear - I have since "real world" tested this on the road to confirm. The entire frame & battery can be removed in a matter of about 20 minutes. I attached the frame to the bottom of the chassis using (3) 1/4-20 Nutserts, so this leaves me some flexibility to create some other variations of frames for storage of tooling, etc. just for travel purposes - if need be.

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sethmark

04-09-2020, 06:19 AM

Jamie! DUST!!! Ack!!!

JOP33

04-09-2020, 07:08 AM

Jamie! DUST!!! Ack!!!

LOL! My Brother-in-Law told me a story once about his Dad - He never cleaned his riding mower from the day he got it, had it for 8 years and never blew it off, cleaned it, wiped it down - anything! It always bothered my BNL so he would always give his Dad **** about it every time he saw him out on it. Finally he got ready to sell it and my BNL walked up and his Dad has it out washing it off and wiping it down, said before he even said anything to him, his Dad said "that damn paint looks pretty good, don't it boy? - Must have been all that dust protecting it for the last 8 years"! :D

sethmark

04-09-2020, 07:42 AM

It’s not dirt... it’s proof!

JOP33

04-18-2020, 04:35 PM

Guys, I have been trying to figure out the best way to get all of these parts out for view and finally I just decided to shoot a youtube video and post the link here. The majority of these parts are just left over from my FFR Gen 1 build, that I either opted for something different or just didn't use. A few are just parts. Just looking to clean out the shop and get a few buck back so pm me if you see something you need and make me an offer + shipping. Take care!

https://youtu.be/V5R4mpxdiPU

Headlights & Fixtures have been sold.
Tail Lights sold as well.

JOP33

04-22-2020, 05:21 AM

1500+ miles as of today, so I put the car on the lift and started a wheels off clean-up and inspection. I had the luck (and privilege) of missing a storm while I was out the other day, but catching all of the puddling afterwards, so the underneath needed a good wipe down. Took the fenders off, removed the wheels and started the clean up process. Everything I have come across looks to be in good condition. I have seen no leaks, wearing, loosening of hardware or fittings, scuffing, rubbing, heating or melting. I will try and finish the clean-up today and then get a wrench on everything to check for tightness and torque.

Fenders Off...
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Fenders and Fronts Off...
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All Off and On The Lift...
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Curbside Front CA's...
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Headlights...
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Lower Radiator Hose...
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Rearend...
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Exhaust...
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Steering Motor...
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In The Air..
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JOP33

04-25-2020, 03:29 PM

Well today was going to be a beautiful day and an awesome day for a drive, so I wiped things down and headed to the local gas station to top off. I had noticed the last two drives that I could smell more fuel than normal, but I had also been running with the windows down since it had been warmer - I honestly thought that the charcoal in my vapor canister might need replacing. I only drove about two miles down the road, topped off and as I was walking back to the car noticed a puddle under the drivers side rear tire and fuel was dripping from the bottom of the chassis at quite a pace. I had a small plastic container I put under where the drip was falling to the ground and then ran inside the store and told them that I was leaking fuel. They were able to provide a larger canister along with a bag of oil absorb. At this point, no matter what the issue was I knew I could not drive the car to the house (even just two miles away), so I reached out to a local tow company and they advised they would be there in 30 minutes. During this time I just stood out front of the store contemplating everything from it just being a careless overfill on my part (I soooo hope) to a cracked tank (I don't even want to think about that right now - I stayed with the FFR stock tank). Here is what I do know...although the car seemed to have more of a fuel smell recently, there were no drips in the shop this morning and no drips leading into the gas station...so this points to an overfill. The tank was only showing about 4 gallons low, so I was just topping off, but you have to run the nozzle so slow and at the top of the tank, I could have very easily over filled the tank forcing the fuel to run out of the overflow (this seemed to be where the fuel was dripping from, but since it was hitting the chassis it was too difficult to see for sure). So anyway, the Tow Truck driver showed up right on time and proceeded to winch the car up (he had actually picked my vehicle up from the shop when it was completed, so he was familiar with it). During this time and by the time we had the car back in front of my shop, the dripping had subsided - another aspect that points to an overfill. Anyway, what was suppose to be a great day of driving turned into a mess. I now have the car ready to go up on the lift so I can check things out and see what might actually be the issue - I am so hoping that it is just an overfill and my idiocy! Even then however, I have wire shroud that has had fuel dripped on it and of course with the rear exit exhaust that all runs in that area. If it's just from an overfill, I don't know to what extent I need to clean or replace the wire wrap in that area...I guess I will cross that bridge once I can verify that it is as simple as an over fill (please be). I will update as I know more.

Stay safe!

sethmark

04-25-2020, 03:38 PM

Fingers crossed it’s a loose fitting.... I’m sure it’s an easy fix.

Straversi

04-25-2020, 10:30 PM

I had the occasional gas smell during go cart but never a drip. When I put 10 or so gallons in the tank I had drips. Turned out to be the gasket in the top of the tank that holds the gas level mechanism had rolled over when installed. I never overfilled the tank but getting the level high enough so the slosh hit the top was enough to do it. Not sure if the hot rod and roadster tanks are similar enough but something to consider.
-Steve

JOP33

04-26-2020, 06:52 AM

After just doing a quick pan over things once I had it on the lift, it appears to be just over fill, however I want be completely satisfied until I am able to see the area behind the waterfall. I'll remove the seats and waterfall today to gain some access and double check things while still remaining hopeful that it's not an issue with the structural integrity of the tank - that is my biggest concern...all of the other options are far easier to repair or replace. The hope that I keep hanging onto, is that I have towed the vehicle, removed the vehicle off the truck, spun the car around on rollers and pushed it into the shop and placed it up on the lift without it leaking additionally, seems like a cracked tank would be leaking profusely during ALL of this, we'll see. Also replacing charcoal in canister as well. Will keep ya'll posted. Thanks for the input.

wrp

04-26-2020, 07:59 AM

Keep us posted, removing the tank is about the cruelist nightmare I could have.

JimLev

04-26-2020, 08:41 AM

Keep us posted, removing the tank is about the cruelist nightmare I could have.

^-what he said! Hope it's an easy fix JOP.
I've often thought about this, remove roof, the seats, roll bar, waterfall, aluminum from the trunk.
I originally had my fuel pump mounted behind the waterfall just ahead of the tank. It's now mounted to the chassis under the tank.
FFR sent the old style tank that fills from the middle. I was at FFR back in 2018 and talked to them about it, they sent me the new tank that has all of the connections at the top.

JOP33

04-26-2020, 09:55 AM

Keep us posted, removing the tank is about the cruelist nightmare I could have.

These are the things that keep me up at night - :(

FF33rod

04-26-2020, 10:43 AM

Good luck! Don't blame you in wanting to make doubly sure!

Steve

JOP33

04-26-2020, 12:19 PM

So I spent about an hour removing the Seats, Speakers, Hardtop Collar & Waterfall to expose the tank, honestly I am surprised this didn't take longer. The tank was extremely dusty which (for this purpose) was good as looking for any leaks were made fairly easy. I have not seen ANY sign of leaks - which I am extremely grateful for! No signs at the ports, any of the connections or at the base of the tank where it sits on the aluminum - all things that point to this being an overfill issue and just a careless error by me. I stopped at a station that I had not been to before for gas and the neck on the pump seemed to be a bit shorter - meaning that if the nozzle was stuck in further the handle guard would likely hit or rest against the paint on the upper fender. For this reason I held it out of the tank a bit further than I normally would, I can only think that the nozzle was never submerged into gas and would never have shut off on it's on. This accompanied by the fact that I was filling it so slowly, I assume it finally just hit the vent line and started flowing out down into the canister and then right down the chassis. Luckily I knew I was around 3/4 of a tank and didn't just stand there for an additional 10 minutes in a puddle of fuel! All components are dry and extremely difficult to tell after a day whether the charcoal and canister were flooded, but I can only assume. I am wiping everything down with a de-greaser, will allow to air dry off. Tomorrow I will bring home my bore scope that attaches to the iphone and will run it around all connections one last time before buttoning things back up. I will start back up out in the drive and let run for a minute or two and then will just take a few trips around the block to test any sloshing then back into the shop for a reinspect underneath. Probably do this a few times just to make sure. For the time being it appears the crisis has been averted! I am also taking some time to clean up some of the wiring behind the seats.

Some of the pics aren't the best quality (used the Dash Cam)...

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JOP33

04-26-2020, 12:21 PM

Cont'd...

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JOP33

04-27-2020, 05:10 PM

I was able to confirm that fuel issue appears to have just been me over filling the tank at a local station. Although I feel like an idiot, I am grateful it was nothing more. Hope to be up and running by the weekend. Since I did have some of the interior components out, I shot a short video showing some areas of the interior you don't normally see...

https://youtu.be/PYepxyK8j3g

JOP33

04-28-2020, 06:23 PM

Here is another short video regarding the rear speaker installation...may be able to use some of the information as a reference for selecting the size of your rear speakers...

https://youtu.be/ILgE1LYU4Cw

FF33rod

04-28-2020, 06:37 PM

Good reference info Jamie. I have the Boyd tank and at the time I mounted it, I wasn't thinking of maximizing the space for the speaker (newb!) I could have trimmed the mount tabs on the tank and placed it back another 3/8" or so I think but as is, I ended up with just over 3" where you are measuring. Luckily my Alpine 6.5" coaxials are less than 3" so they will fit along with the boom mat. Bottom line, if this is where you want to put speakers, it's similar parameters whether it's FFR or Boyd tanks you're using.

Steve

JOP33

05-02-2020, 05:25 PM

Between yesterday and today, I put to bed any thoughts that my fuel mishap was anything other than Operator Error :p. After wiping everything down in the rear and re-wrapping the exhaust, I ran the car for about 20 minutes in the drive with no leaks. After that I took the vehicle around the neighborhood to simulate some sloshing of fuel in the tank, checking at regular intervals for issues, which there were none. Today was the real test as I put about 100 miles on the vehicle without issue. On another note, we are starting to see some warmer temps, so I have been hyper aware of the engine temperature as I am running the car. From what I have gathered from research, the 302 should be running between 190 - 205 (maybe a bit higher with the EFI). Over the last few drives, I have been running good temps at highway speeds in clean air, but in traffic and at a slower pace the temp jets up pretty quickly to 220 - and I have not cranked the AC yet. I did some investigating and noticed on my EFI handheld that the cut-in temp for the fan was set at 205 - I thought this was pretty high, so I have adjusted it down to 185. Just in today's run alone, which has been it's best test by far, the temps were at 180 -190 and even a bit lower sometimes on the highway. When stopping, the temp rises more gradual and seems to hold steady at 200. Again, all of this without AC as I have had an issue with the Cooling portion of the AC unit working. I am taking it back out to 121 R & R next week to have them diagnose. With all of this being said, I have begun some early design work on some possible side vents for the side panels. These would set in the furthers back, uppermost corner. With the grill, shroud & the hood vent - I believe I am getting plenty of air flow into the engine compartment, but it hits the firewall going over the engine and then just finds the path of least resistance into the passenger compartment at the edges of the firewall. So what I want is a vent that will allow air to flow outside of the engine compartment. Once I have finalized some top choices, I will post to get some feedback.

Take care & stay safe!

JOP33

05-10-2020, 12:27 PM

Put 300+ miles on the car in the last two days, taking me past 2000!

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donshapansky

05-11-2020, 10:51 AM

That's why I placed the side cover vents and a top exit on the hood facing back to allow the rising air out and some vacuum placed by the air moving over the hood.128162

JOP33

05-11-2020, 12:08 PM

That's why I placed the side cover vents and a top exit on the hood facing back to allow the rising air out and some vacuum placed by the air moving over the hood.128162

I am going to see how the heat (engine heat that is) plays out over the next few weeks...I have a Plan B for Side Panel Vents (if needed), I don't want to use it but will if I need to. After adjusting the cut-in temp on the fan, the Engine temp has been really good (170-190), but without AC and at 80 - 90 degree ambient temp. It spikes a bit in 4 minute lights, etc.. As for the inside temp, had a pin hole leak in a hose, so extremely low on freon. Think we might have that issue solved, but will test this out as well this week.

JOP33

05-12-2020, 12:06 PM

AC issue appears to have just been a pin hole in one of the hoses allowing the Freon to leak out. Seems to be running fine now...will test over the next few days, weeks, months!

JOP33

05-12-2020, 06:30 PM

Just Reminiscing...
It is hard to believe that it has been over four years since I first joined this forum and my interest was peaked by the idea of building my own car. I know I have stated it early on during this build, but for up & coming builders I think it is worth re-stating, that this was my first attempt to build a vehicle of any kind (accept for a few R/C Cars). This really drove my intent (at least initially) to keep the build as simple as possible (Crate 302, AOD Trans, Build School, etc.). I had met some extremely experienced car guys that had started some builds (not FFR's) and had ended up selling their projects for cents on the dollar. I knew I could not let this happen to me, as I would view it as a failure and honestly with regards to it being a FAMILY investment, I would also be failing my wife. I was challenged with doing something I tend not to do and that is rely heavily on the input of other (more experienced) people to help guide my decision. For the most part, if a mistake is going to be made, I want to be the one solely responsible as it tends to have a greater learning impact on me. The forum was (and is) an absolute wealth of knowledge during the entire build. From the difference in opinions on what should be ordered to where items should be installed and when. I don't think I can stress enough the importance of being an active member on this forum...even if you are the quiet one just sitting back and reading other post. I guarantee you will still learn something here, and honestly it may not even have anything to do with building cars! I think it is also important to clarify, that by no means did I build my car alone or even complete the car entirely myself (as I have been asked and actually confronted with this several times). I did attend the build school, then I mocked the car up (chassis, brakes, fuel lines, aluminum, seats), disassembled it for powder coating, then started a journey toward go-carting the car. I am not embarrassed to admit the following...I never (before this build) installed or bled brakes, mated a transmission to an engine, installed a rear end, routed fuel lines, wired an ignition, AC, starter, installed a fuel tank, dropped an Engine/Transmission into a car, there is so much more I could list here, but I believe you get the idea. So I reached the go-carting stage and for me, nothing past that point could be a failure. I knew, based on my limitations, both physically and technically that it was time to let the professionals take over from this point. I had watched the videos on the door installs and the body work and given that I had two prior back surgeries (with a possible third looming) I chose to hand the car off to be finished by the professionals and I couldn't have been happier with the result I got! Kory and his team at 121 Rod & Restoration took 100% of my ideas, added a few twist along the way and just did an amazing job! And so as I surpassed 2000 miles on the car this weekend, I just felt the need to sit down and post something that, if I again were an individual contemplating this build, might give me just a bit more confidence to pull that trigger and start (what for me) was a once in a life-time experience! Thanks to ALL who have offered your input, feedback, critiques, help & wisdom...believe me when I say I heard every word!

Build School...
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Build Sheet...
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Inventory...
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Pre-Powder...
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Go-Cart Day...
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121 Drop Off Day...
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Paint Day...
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Coming Home...
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The Star...
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2000 Miles...
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JOP33

05-14-2020, 12:36 PM

Been working on a couple small projects...

Remade my battery cover and re-covered with vinyl. The previous version was foam board and just wasn't holding up well. This one I laser cut out of .032" 5052 Alum with reliefs that allowed me to bend by hand. I then covered in some extra vinyl I had. I will be installing a scrolling LED board in the opening and then wiring to the auxiliary battery mounted under the trunk.

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I also drew up some Safety Pin Bezels for the pins that extend out on the suicide doors and had some prototypes 3D printed. I had purchased some plastic ones made for door locks and they worked but didn't really fit very well and were not durable. These are just prototypes to confirm fit, form & functionality...all worked well, so now I will have them 3D printed out of aluminum and then polish.

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JOP33

05-15-2020, 06:30 PM

Sorry, I might have had a little too much time on my hands today...

https://youtu.be/0z4y98GzUo8

HVACMAN

05-15-2020, 07:49 PM

sorry, i might have had a little too much time on my hands today...

https://youtu.be/0z4y98gzuo8

wow!!!

JOP33

05-17-2020, 04:08 PM

I'd been thinking for sometime now how I could dress up the cuts around the hinges in the body. I believe Tim Whittaker sold some billet pieces at one time to install around them, but after seeing them once, I never came across them again. So I ventured out on my own trying to come up with something simple, easy to install and low cost to make...here is the result of that...

https://youtu.be/LYnF0s_LMug

JOP33

05-18-2020, 03:15 PM

Last week when I hit 2000 miles on the car, I put the car up on the lift to just eyeball the underneath and make sure nothing looked out of sorts. I also re-torque items that need to be. Something I caught was some heating up of the heat sleeve I had placed around the starter wires. They pass extremely close (and in fact were laying right against) the header pipes. The heat protection was doing exactly what it was suppose to be, but in an effort to avoid an issue later down the road, I re-wrapped the wires with some new wrap. I still wasn't too happy with the way the wires were laying, so I also fab'd a small bracket to pull the wires away from the headers allowing a bit more air flow between...

Before re-wrap and bracket...
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Heated area...
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After re-wrap from above and below...
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Bracket...
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JOP33

05-20-2020, 05:01 AM

Yesterday I drove the car back to work after lunch - I am blessed (or burdened :() by the fact that I only live about 10 miles away from work. So on my trip back home after work as I was testing the AC for coolness and watching the engine temp for cooling as well, as luck would have it on my 10 mile trip, I was held up by three trains, construction & car wreck. This turned the normal 15 minute drive into a 50 minute drive or maybe more appropriately a continuous start and stop. During the span of this time the engine temp was running pretty consistently 210-220 moving with the AC on and jumping to 220-230 at stop. This seems just a bit high, but I have read many post on some of the 302 forums that these engines typically run between 200-210 and a bit higher with the EFI. I reached out to the guys at Engine Factory for their thoughts on this as it was only 95 yesterday, so we are a good 10 degrees from what we could see at times. I do have some ideas on helping to cool, but have not pressed forward with them as of yet. Will update as I get some more info on this.

sread

05-20-2020, 09:33 AM

I am in the process of hanging my grill/rad assembly right now and I have noticed a couple of possible issues. First is the laid back angle of the the rad - that can't be the optimum set up for airflow thru the core. Not much you can do about it other than switch to the more vertical 32 grill.
Second, is the spacing between the condenser and the radiator. It really needs to be at least an inch or it really reduces the efficiency of the rad also. One other thing that comes to mind is I am pretty sure the FF supplied electric fan is probably not the top of the line either when it comes to cfm air movement.
Just some things to consider.

sethmark

05-20-2020, 09:55 AM

I’ve always been taught that overheating at speed is not enough radiator and overheating while going slow is not enough fan. Kind of obvious if you think about it. With that said, at slow speed you need to get the heat out as well.

If you’re not running a shroud, that would be the very first thing to add. The second thing, as mentioned in the previous post is more fan....look up SPAL fans. Figure out What fits in the hole and get one with as much power as possible. I hate overheating issues and have fought them on a number of projects over the years. Unless there is a issue that is greater, such as thin cylinder walls or some sort of mechanical blockage, it usually boils down to airflow.

JimLev

05-20-2020, 10:31 AM

I used a shroud on mine plus I added a PWM speed controller so the fan runs all the time at whatever speed I set it too.
If the engine ECU wants more cooling it bypasses my PWM controller and sets the fan speed to 100%
It's easier to keep an engine cooler if air is always moving thru the radiator than it is to try to bring the temp down after it's hot.
This is very helpful in stop and go traffic.

progmgr1

05-20-2020, 03:31 PM

I used a shroud on mine plus I added a PWM speed controller so the fan runs all the time at whatever speed I set it too.
If the engine ECU wants more cooling it bypasses my PWM controller and sets the fan speed to 100%

Hey Jim,
That sounds like a great idea. I'm just getting ready to do the wiring, so a schematic and parts list of your setup would be very helpful.
Thanks,
Keith HR #894

JimLev

05-20-2020, 04:36 PM

Keith, I'll probably have to redraw it and add more notes to it.
The top part of the page is the way it was wired using the GM ECU (temp switch in the head) to control the fan.
The temp switch in the bottom of the radiator is not used.

The fan was grounded and the ECU relay would switch 12v on or off as needed.
Using a PWM controller most of the ones I've used in the past did the switching on the ground leg, not the + side.
This requires a DPDT relay (Magnacraft W388COX-6) to switch both fan wires.
When the relay is not energized the fan runs off the PWM controller.
When the ECU wants more cooling the ECU fan relay energizes the Magnacraft relay which switches both fan wires.
Any 12 volt relay that can handle ~15-20 amps will work.
Here's the PWM controller I used. You set it to the % of speed you want, not the actual RPM.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GGTZXH1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

JOP, sorry to hijack your thread.
Keith, if you need more info let me know and I'll post it on your build page.

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JOP33

05-20-2020, 05:12 PM

Actually what ya'll are saying is the feedback I am getting...running heat = not enough radiator, idle heat = not enough fan. Engine Factory has come back and suggested changing from the installed 180 Tstat to a 160 an from the FFR stock 2800 cfm fan to a 3300 fan. BTW, I am using a fan shroud and also have the hood vent. It appears the stock fan is about1-1/4" to 2-1/2" deep by ~16" in diameter...anyone happen to have a part number on a 3300 cfm fan that might fit nicely?

sethmark

05-20-2020, 05:28 PM

https://www.spalusa.com/products/fans/16/

Your engine is not overheating at 160°. Nor is it overheating at 180°. The way that the thermostat works is that the number is where it begins to open. It is then fully open 20° later. So a 180 is fully open at 200°. Still not overheating.

The best remedies I found in the most stubborn of cars are high-quality water pumps and strong puller fans with good shrouds. I had a 53 Chevy pick up I put a small block Chevy in and it would not run cool. I eventually had to put in a new radiator, fan, shroud and water pump to keep the temperature south of 220 while idling with the air conditioning on in South Florida heat. With all those components installed, it never got hot around town.

JOP33

05-20-2020, 06:25 PM

Good information Seth...and what I have uncovered from comparing part numbers and information is that Tony Z thought the cfm on the FFR fan was 2800...it is actually 1900 cfm max! So getting to even a 3000 cfm fan will help significantly (I think). However, getting the fan off (bolted from inside of shroud that is riveted on to radiator) might be bit of a challenge in itself!

sethmark

05-20-2020, 06:40 PM

A 3000cfm fan is a hurricane.

JimLev

05-20-2020, 10:09 PM

A 3000cfm fan is a hurricane.

^_and will sound like one too. If you go the 3000cfm route better check how many amps it will draw. A fan with S curved blades is a little quieter than straight blade fans.
No room to add a bigger radiator, a fan with more CFM will help however the on/off control will still have the temp go up and down.
A fan that is only running when the ECU signals it to be on vs one that is always running at a slower than max speed is something to consider.
I have pretty much this same PWM circuit in my other car (4.4L V8) with a Flex-a-Lite 116 16" 1450 CFM fan.
Last summer it hit 102º here, I had the AC set to 65º and was stuck in traffic many times. I can read the engine temp in deg C in the cluster. It always stayed below 100ºC. I also built a delay off circuit the will keep the fan running for 5 min after you turn the engine off.
Another easier alternative to a PWM controller is to put a 100w resistor across the fan relay contacts, a value of a few ohms should keep the fan spinning around 1/2 speed and then go to full speed if the ECU wants more engine cooling.

JOP33

05-24-2020, 12:39 PM

So I got the fan changed out - went from 1900 CFM to 3000 (what a pain) and the thermostat - went from 180° to 160°. I ran the car for about 10 minutes yesterday after everything was buttoned up (fluid added, everything tightened) and fan engaged as it should. Today I took it out for a road test..not crazy hot outside 82°. AC on full blast was running about 190°-205° for most of the drive. Stopped for gas and then got back on the road at that point it traveled pretty quickly to 230° - I now know that although the fan came on yesterday, it never came on today. Drove back to the house and here is where I am at right now (still need to chase down the fan issue, but I had to do a sanity check on some temps)...

After 15 minutes of running, with AC on @ idle (taken with infrared temperature gun)...
Speedhut Gauges Reading - 245°
Drivers Side Engine Block (behind Alt) - 155°
Passenger Side Engine Block (behind AC Comp) - 197°
Thermostat Housing (just at the base of the gauge temp sensor) - 190°

My first question is, where is the best location to get an accurate reading of the engine temperature? Then secondly, more of a statement, the gauge temperature reading seems to be the big discrepancy.

It would be great to hear some additional input on this, thanks

sethmark

05-24-2020, 03:31 PM

Top and bottom of radiator. You need to know how hot the water is going into and coming out of the radiator. The differential will tell you how effective the cooling of the rad is. Where is the water temp gauge plumbed?

JOP33

05-24-2020, 04:01 PM

It’s in the thermostat housing.

sethmark

05-24-2020, 05:46 PM

Out of the gate, it sounds like the system is not bled. Open the radiator cap with the car cold, turn on the heater and let it idle until it’s fully up to temp. I would expect to see a couple of good burps.

The gauge should be accurate in the thermostat housing, but there should be fluctuations... With a 160 therm the tstat should be wide open at all temps above 180 (remember, it opens at 160and is fully open 20° later).

sread

05-24-2020, 10:59 PM

If bleeding the air out of the system doesn't help I have a feeling you may find it a challenge to keep the car cool without opening up the engine compartment some more to allow all of that hot air to escape. I doubt that the the vent you have currently in the hood is going to be sufficient. ( I know not something you want to hear). It should be pretty easy to test by just removing the side panels and see what effect it has.

JOP33

05-25-2020, 12:08 PM

ALL extremely helpful information. I haven't had a chance to check the temp on the upper and lower radiator hose inlets and compare or bleed the system. I did remember that the EFI is controlling the fan cut-in and cut-out and it is on a separate thermo sensor from the gauges. It is installed in the top left side of the engine block (where the temp is registering on the outside of the block @ 155°). If the temp there is even remotely close to actual, the fan is set to not cut-in until 170°. The gauge thermo sensor is installed in the top of the thermostat housing (where the temp is registering just the below the sensor 190°) - this is far cry from the 245° that is registering on the gauges on the dash though. So I am wondering if there is something wrong with this sensor...if it is just a bad sensor and the system is cooling properly and I just need to replace that sensor, I would feel a lot better knowing that. How accurate should I expect the temps shot on the outside of these engine locations to be relative to real temps inside?

Thanks again for all your help and I will keep you updating as I work through this.

wrp

05-26-2020, 12:16 PM

I do not have any pictures but after rebuilding my motor and putting it back in I could not get it to burp. I jacked the front end up to the highest point I could get the jaqck stands to hold it. The car was at a steep front to back incline. I let it sit overnight. Seemed to solve the problem.

JOP33

05-27-2020, 06:06 PM

Although I am not completely satisfied, I think I am satisfied enough to get the ole' bird back on the road for a test. Today, between a few drives through the neighborhood and (mostly) idling (~30 minutes), the max temp reading I saw on the Holley Temp Sensor (installed as shown in pic A below) with the AC on was 207° (ambient 87°). Now during this time I was still seeing the Speedhut Dash Gauge reading 230° (installed as shown in pic B below)...so I'd much rather those numbers be a little closer, but Engine Factory has advised the EFI sensor should be the most accurate. I did (at the suggestion of a few of you here on the forum) burp the system and there was some air that came to the top. So the fan has been upgraded and is engaging as programmed, the thermostat was changed from 180° to 160°, system has been bled and it appears the only real issue is the dash gauge is off (to the hot side) by +20° or so. I can replace the thermo sensor for about $20 and hope that corrects the issue, but I am absolutely dreading chasing down the lead, disconnecting and re-running on a "hope" that the issue will disappear. I think I am going to play it by ear, confirm temps over the next few drives with the Holley Sensor (I can view the handheld out of my console) and if the discrepancy is consistent (especially when it may only truly matter at stop & idle), I may just decide to live with it until winter.

Holley Temp Sensor Pic A
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Speedhut Temp Sensor Pic B
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sethmark

05-27-2020, 06:26 PM

That 230 number scares me. The gauges use turd sensors. Temperature up/resistance down. You should be able to check the sensor as it warms up by pulling the leads off the sensor and recording the numbers. If you pull the offending sensor and record the resistance in a cup of room temp water, then boiling water, you can then check the sensor installed in the intake,with the gauge installed and determine accuracy. If you’re really can hook up the gauge to a battery in the house and do your accuracy checks with the gauge. I also have auto meter gauges and sensors,from the kit I didn’t use. If you want them.

narly1

05-27-2020, 07:04 PM

OK Jamie, you're in my wheelhouse now. I sell sensors for a living.

The sensing element used in these types of coolant temperature sensors is a device called a thermistor.

The characteristic of the thermistor that is used to infer temperature is the fact that it's resistance changes with temperature. Apply a stable, known voltage to the sensor (like 12Vdc, look at the voltage drop across it (with respect to ground) with a voltmeter (which is what your coolant temperature gauge is) and your off to the races.

Refer to https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermistor and you will be an expert on the subject, LOL.

So what does all of this have to do with checking to see if your sensor is good or bad? A couple of things:

1. Remember I said apply a stable, known voltage? If you're not doing this due to lack of input voltage regulation, or a bad/poorly connected +ve, output, or negative (remember the case of the sensor is the ground connection) electrical connection the results could be off. Start there.

2. Then the next thing you can check is what values of resistance the thermistor outputs at various temperatures. There are charts out there you can look up, but this is where the car OEMs and sensor companies do a poor job of documenting what's what. Due to reasons of economy, they're not that consistent in resistance output at a given temperature from unit to unit.

Armed with this knowledge you can still go poking around and check the resistance across all of the coolant temp sensors in the system (with a digital multimeter set to ohms) to see how they compare, both to the published chart(s) and each other.

I hope this helps.

sethmark

05-27-2020, 07:28 PM

narly1

05-27-2020, 09:18 PM

I like turd gauge. ;)

I know eh? Cheap crap.

I was surprised to see that there isn't a standard resistance vs temp curve/spec that coolant sensors are supposed to conform to within some tolerance.

Thinking the best thing to do might be to pre-calibrate the sensor & gauge together by immersing the sensor in a pot of heated water while comparing it to an accurate thermometer. If you put a trimpot in series with the sensor output you could then adjust it and make the gauge read dead on.

sethmark

05-27-2020, 09:29 PM

I think you said what I tried to say....better

JOP33

05-28-2020, 05:23 AM

Whewwww! Guys this is way too much discussion & knowledge being fed to me this early in the morning! I don't even know if I can digest this all...I feel like someone has just explained to me how to do brain surgery. It may take me a day or two to even begin to know where to start here...but thanks again for ALL the information, I will update as I (gulp) work through this...

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sethmark

05-28-2020, 05:34 AM

Toughen up,Jamie. You built a car.

JOP33

05-28-2020, 05:55 AM

I get it! Thanks again

JOP33

05-28-2020, 06:36 AM

Toughen up,Jamie. You built a car.

I might add Seth...Just cause I can buy a lottery ticket, doesn't make me a millionaire!

Ya'll have a great day!

JOP33

05-28-2020, 05:47 PM

Have not checked thermistor as of yet. Did get the car out for about a 20 minute drive, tale of the tape below...

88° Ambient Temperature
AC on
Mostly Highway driving with a few idles

Dash Gauge - 210° max / Thermostat Housing - 168°
Holley EFI Handheld - 183° max / Top Driver Side of Block - 167°
Radiator Inlet (Upper) - 168°
Radiator Outlet (Lower) - 140°

sethmark

05-28-2020, 08:25 PM

I would be far more inclined to believe the Holley than the auto meter. If you’d like for me to send you another temp sensor, send me a PM.

FF33rod

05-28-2020, 10:39 PM

JOP33

05-29-2020, 07:57 AM

I would be far more inclined to believe the Holley than the auto meter. If you’d like for me to send you another temp sensor, send me a PM.

I would agree, and I also need to go back a few post and edit, as for some reason I had Autometer on my mind, but the gauges I have are actually the Speedhut Legends 6 in 1 Elliptical Cluster.

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JOP33

05-29-2020, 08:01 AM

Taking the car across town a bit today, so it will be a better test. Keeping the Holley Handheld visible just for some reassurance.

narly1

05-29-2020, 09:32 AM

Everything seems pretty normal/consistent except the dash gauge

And the sensor it's connected to....those two seem to be the "odd man out" components in terms of the temps being read/observed.

So how to troubleshoot:

1. Easy but not definitive approach: Swap out the existing temp sensor on the engine for a new one. If all measurements agree then safe to say that was the problem. If they don't you may have another wonky sensor or the gauge is somehow off.

2. More involved but definitive approach: Hot plate/pot of water/ accurate thermometer, dunk the existing temp sensor into the pot while still connected to the dash gauge and powered by the car to see how they compare as the water heats up.

HVACMAN

05-29-2020, 01:21 PM

And the sensor it's connected to....those two seem to be the "odd man out" components in terms of the temps being read/observed.

So how to troubleshoot:

1. Easy but not definitive approach: Swap out the existing temp sensor on the engine for a new one. If all measurements agree then safe to say that was the problem. If they don't you may have another wonky sensor or the gauge is somehow off.

2. More involved but definitive approach: Hot plate/pot of water/ accurate thermometer, dunk the existing temp sensor into the pot while still connected to the dash gauge and powered by the car to see how they compare as the water heats up.

You don't even need a thermometer (another variable). Boiling water is exactly 212 degrees.

narly1

05-29-2020, 01:50 PM

You don't even need a thermometer (another variable). Boiling water is exactly 212 degrees.

Altitude and barometric pressure will affect that figure slightly but yes, you're correct boiling = 212 F would be close enough for the purpose of checking the accuracy of the temp sensor & gauge.

JOP33

05-29-2020, 07:06 PM

So still nothing definitive on the sensor yet, however I do feel much better about the cooling system in general. Today I was out for about 3 hours, probably 2 hours of that driving - some highway and some in town. With an ambient temperature of 90° and the AC on, I was seeing a max of 225° on the Gauges and 200° on the Holley Handheld. It is interesting that no matter what, throughout the day the difference between the two was usually 20° - 25°. I also want to mention that I reached out to Speedhut on the gauge sensor and they very promptly sent the ° to ohms conversion (below) for the Legends 6 in 1 Gauge Temp Sensor, they also stated that if in fact I found an issue they would send a new one at no cost. I have actually asked them to just send another one out as that should be the most definitive check.

To another subject for a moment, as I know I have spent a significant amount of time the last week on on the whole "cooling dilemma of 2020". After today, I do believe the AC is working pretty efficiently, I also believe that I am getting a significant amount of heated air from the engine compartment coming in around the firewall, trans tunnel, etc. This is just m theory, so don't consider any of this gospel..ya'll that have the removable engine side covers or louvers (or some kind of opening in the side panels) have a place for this heated air to escape. For me, the path of least resistance seems to be any slight or not so slight gap at the firewall or around the trans tunnel. I probably should have expected this and done a bit more with regards to that to help things out (instead of being so focussed on the thermal transfer of heat - or at least been just as foccussed)...by no means is it a sauna, but I think the cool air being generated by AC is just being slighted by the forced heated air. My first plan on this is to try and fill any gaps with some of the high temperature, batted insulation. Something similar to an Owens Corning that can be tucked into the gaps...I was able to find some high temp rated at Grainger and will try that first. Plan B will be to create some vents for the side panels. I have been working on a few designs that ultimately I would have 3D printed out of aluminum, just like the hood vent.

Speedhut ° to ohms conversion...
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Here are a few of the Plan B designs if things have to go that far. The drawings are 2D for now, but they would be functional vents with opens on the back side that flow toward the door...
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JimLev

05-29-2020, 10:55 PM

JOP33

05-30-2020, 05:52 AM

To be honest those small side vent openings won't do that much.
While your driving the majority of the air flow will be out the bottom of the engine compartment, that opening is much bigger, the air will take the path of least resistance.

Yeah, I am not completely sold on the idea yet. The vents would be the highest up and back as far as I could get in the compartment. It would be a true vent on the inside with a scoop much like a NACA Vent, so although smaller in size, the opening would actually be bigger than it appears. You can't tell from the 2D but all would have a rectangular opening behind that allows flow toward the door..the badges would be tapered slightly off the surface of the panel. The heated air will want to rise and the gaps at the firewall are the path of least resistance now, so I will take care of those first. Hitting the firewall is what is forcing the air downward. I am seeing the affects of this now as any time I speed up the heated air then rushes in, drop back to a steady speed, not so much air coming in.

Thanks

JOP33

05-31-2020, 01:26 PM

Had a really good run in the car yesterday. Larry (33 Builder out of Grapevine, Tx) and I went out to the Star in Frisco yesterday. When I did the photo shoot in March, I was just glad to be done with it and headed home, so I wanted to get back over there and take a few more pics & videos for myself and with things just starting to come back it was still a bit slow over there. The car drove and engine cooled great! Say what you want about the Cowboys or Jerry Jones...their facility is absolutely amazing and I would encourage anyone that gets in the area to take an opportunity to stop by there.

Arriving at One Cowboys Way...
https://youtu.be/pjAzLJgFnjQ

Drive down Avenue of Champions Drive...
https://youtu.be/TZLS8lUL7FM

In front of Jerry's Office...
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I spent some time this morning finishing up something fun that I started a couple of months ago. I finally hardwired my scrolling LED sign into the battery cover. There is a toggle right behind the cover that allows me to turn it off when I want to and it is fully programmable...
129290

https://youtu.be/dbSAEtmWwBc

I about to go out into the shop and install some snaps on my vinyl piece that covers the access holes for the hardtop just above the waterfall. The velcro is just not doing it because of all of the compound contours. Hope to have that completed by tomorrow.

JOP33

06-01-2020, 06:52 AM

My wife snapped this pic on our drive last night...

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JOP33

06-02-2020, 01:54 PM

Just another step in finding and tweaking a few things on the Hotrod...The Holley Sniper EFI has an AC Kick Off Switch that will turn the AC off at a certain % of WOT. I knew this and installed the relay and wired it. The default from Holley is supposed to be 65%, when I checked mine it was at 50%. So anytime that acceleration was past 50% the AC was receiving a signal to disengage. I have since set it at 85% and tested and it runs more consistently now. Even with some good depression for acceleration, the AC is staying on. Only when I really romp on it does it disengage. This is just a digital percentage setting within the Holley Handheld that can be manipulated and saved at anytime. Now I just need to fill a few air gaps and I think the heat might be tolerable this summer!

wallace18

06-02-2020, 02:21 PM

Down here in FL. we need large openings on the sides to cool the engine and have A/C work well in the 90+ temps as well as the humidity. Lots of Street rod guys take the sides off during the summer and put them back on in cooler temps. Just thought I would share that with you. Here is some examples of FFR sides we have down here. With your beautiful graphics it may be a challenge to get a good side opening to work for you.

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JOP33

06-06-2020, 01:28 PM

As we all know the life of owning a Hot Rod is filled with highs and lows...this week was no exception. As I was chasing down heat transfer issues from the engine compartment to the passenger compartment (gaps @ firewall), I thought to myself I should really have the AC system sucked down, purged and refilled just so I know that I am starting with a system that is performing as it should and eliminate that as a variable. So I scheduled an appointment at the same local shop that had done my Safety Inspection for the registration. As I pulled into the parking space at the shop, I was paying more attention to the truck that was following (and turning, what I thought was extremely prematurely) behind me into the parking space next to me. Ultimately, the result was I did the inevitable and crushed the front facing camera on the bottom of the grill. Honestly, this was the best scenario as if the grill had been even a 1/4" lower (or the stop 1/4" higher) this would have been much more than $100 camera I was out! Honestly, I don't know that I will replace the camera, I was 100% for it during the build, but honestly it's like watching a train wreck - at the point you see it, you can't do anything about it. So after I picked up the remains of the camera (sheared the wire and camera right off), I moved the car into the last stall where they were able to purge the system and get the air temp to about 68°...I was pretty happy with that. I am running the Classic Auto Air Street Rodder Gen III unit provided by Dan Ruth, so I called CAA (they are local) and asked the proper filling allowance - they stated for that system (and most) it was 24oz 134a freon. The AC appears to be cycling more consistently and provides cooler air - this has done absolutely nothing for the air escaping from the Engine Compartment and coming into the Passeger Compartment, but I am working on that. BTW, the engine seems to still be cooling good as we head into some 90°+ days.
I was never really happy with the cover we came up with for the access holes in the hardtop. I think (I am not an upholstery guy) it was made a little too rigid to contour to all the compound curves in the lower portion of the hardtop. Also, using velcro on the back side was just not a good option either. I had purchased some extra material a while back knowing that I was going to do something different. I took the original cover along with the material to a local upholstery shop and explained to them my new plan, to remake the cover with snaps. They thought it was a good plan, but they were way to covered up to be able to do the work, but actually lent me their snap install tool so that I could install the snaps once I had the cover remade. On the way home, I actually stopped by another shop (closer to the house) that I had heard good things about and they were able to take the material and pattern right in. Two days & $60 later, I had my new cover. From this point, I taped the cover into the car where I wanted to install it, marked it and installed all of the snaps. It still needs a bit of heat on it, but I am much happier with the fit, form & functionality of this now!

Camera Crush...
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AC Cooling...
129586

Shop that remade the cover...
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New Cover...
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Tape Up of the New Cover...
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Snap Install Process...
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RoadRacer

06-06-2020, 04:13 PM

Very nice! As I'm out on the garage and the weather is heating up I often wonder about my lack of A/C in Austin :D And my plans to use it daily :D :D lol

McGuyver

06-06-2020, 10:08 PM

Sorry to hear about the camera. You may want to keep looking into the A/C, I would think you should see 40-50 degrees at the vent. Possible heater valve is allowing some flow through the heater core?

JOP33

06-07-2020, 08:26 AM

Sorry to hear about the camera. You may want to keep looking into the A/C, I would think you should see 40-50 degrees at the vent. Possible heater valve is allowing some flow through the heater core?

What’s the easiest way to check this? You’re the second person that has asked me about that.

JimLev

06-07-2020, 08:35 AM

Pinch off the hose coming from the water pump, that will prevent any water flow to the heater core.

sread

06-08-2020, 10:00 AM

RoadRacer

06-08-2020, 11:46 AM

Yeah - that whole 33 grill/ rad assy is very vulnerable. On my car the very lowest piece is the bottom corner of the rad tank ...I'm sure there is a custom radiator in my future at some point as I think it is only a matter of when ,not if it gets damaged.

Yeah, I thought the same thing this weekend - probably going to move my rad up inside the grill a little more. I'd rather have more clearance and make it a little harder to get the rad cap off..

JOP33

06-08-2020, 01:50 PM

At the build school, they suggested putting a sacrificial piece of aluminum between the grill and radiator, so if the grill was hit it wouldn't puncture the radiator. Honestly, the grill is probably more expensive than the radiator though.

JOP33

06-09-2020, 05:44 AM

As I was cleaning the car up for a show on Sunday, I noticed that the lower steering joint where it attaches to the steering rod was actually cocked slightly. When I reached down, sure enough it was loose to touch. I had loctited ALL of the set screws and jam nuts on this application as I had heard some past concerns about them staying tight. I also drilled detents for the set screws to rest into the double d rod, but was unable to do so on the hardened steering shaft with the splines. What appeared to have happened, is that the splined end of the knuckle (joint) had not loosened, but did slide back just enough to tilt a bit on the spline. It was completely tight on the other end to the double d rod without any movement there. There is not enough play (at least on my set-up) for the spline to become completely disengaged, so steering & turning were still functional. I would suggest that if this area is not something you check regularly in your normal maintenance, that you add checking ALL steering connectors, knuckles & joints to the list. I loosened both ends of the joint, slid the joint as far forward as possible, so as to engage as much of the steering rod spline as possible, then reinstalled the set-screws and jam nuts and loctited them again with Red Loctite. I put 100 miles on the car Sunday after this, checking both at the show and when I returned home and I didn't see any signs of movement or loosening...this is something I will definetly be keeping my eyes on during routine maintenance.

Yesterday I also took another reading on the AC vent, I was seeing 57.7°, so that seemed pretty good to me (will seem even better in just a minute :p). I removed the Access Panels off the Cowl as I have yet to remove the hardtop myself and I am planning on doing so in the next few days - I wanted to see about accessing the bolts that hold the hardtop on. Low and behold, neither vent hose was attached to the actual dash vents. The should have definitely been zipped tied to the vents, but I also know it is extremely tight in these areas. It appeared to me they had just been set by the vents, but they could have also been tugged off when the body was placed on (did I mention it is extremely tight in this area - and I don't have wipers in the cowl). One of the defrost vent hoses had also come off at the evaporator. Needless to say, I am working (with sausage fingers) to get the hoses attached and permanently connected to the vents - I can only assume this will help with cooling substantially.
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I also uncovered a couple areas at the firewall that will be getting some attention as well. You can see in the photos (DS & PS), where the chassis tube is welded at the firewall, the black air gap that runs on the outside of the chassis but in between the body creating just a tunnel of heat flowing into the passenger compartment. I will be working to fill these areas (along with any others I might find).
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All in all though, it was good to get out to a small show in Lewisville, Tx Sunday and the car drove and looked great! I will be make just a few simple mods over the next week or so that I will post updated pics on - nothing to crazy, just small aesthetic details.
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JOP33

06-12-2020, 05:32 AM

I was able to verify that the heater valve is performing properly. As previously noted, several of the vent hoses were off the vents allowing for air to escape. The two main dash vents, I found had larger outputs than the hose - so this means they were never attached to begin with. I stopped by the hardware store yesterday and just purchased some pvc elbows and then used some high strength hot glue and glue gun to reduce the vents down to the hose size. I was then able to re-attach the other loose connections to the evaporator and ran a small screw through each connection with a bit of RTV on it. I had planned to zip tie the ends, but many of the areas are just too tight to get to with a tie. I also removed the front nuts on the hardtop last night - surprisingly this only took about 15 minutes. I hope to have the rear bolts out tonight and the top off of the car this weekend for the first official time. I have thinking about the easiest way to remove the top. I have a 200 lb over-head hoist that I can use, but I think lifting it may tend to be a little awkward and require some innovative strapping. I think the best solution is going to be driving the car into the lift area, running two 2 x 4's that have swimming noodles on them for protection across from one lift rail to the other through the window openings, and then just run the lift up. Sounds like it should work easily...I'll let you know!

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JOP33

06-13-2020, 03:34 PM

Between yesterday and this morning Star Mobile One became topless for the first time! It took probably two hours total and I truly anticipated more issues, but things went relatively smooth...of course the lift helped quite a bit! I am sure getting the Hardtop back on will be more of a challenge. There are five locking flange nuts that get removed in the front cowl area and then five bolts that get removed in the rear. I had to enlarge the holes in the front just a bit to allow for the studs to fit through correctly on the Roadster windshield and to be able to position the window where all hardtop holes are covered as well. I installed the FFR supplied gasket for the Roadster windshield and then placed it on and tightened everything down. For the Rear Cap Cover, we had drilled holes through the fiberglass piece prior to covering in vinyl, so all I had to do was use a pick to poke the holes through the vinyl to allow for some 1/4-20 Chrome Machine Screws to be installed. Still a fan of the Hardtop though, but I've got to say getting in and out of the car is much easier - just don't know if it outweighs the benefit of the AC though!

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Video... https://youtu.be/zOZysKHWJ58

sethmark

06-13-2020, 03:57 PM

Without a shadow of a doubt, I prefer your car topless. But then again I prefer all cars topless. Women too....

progmgr1

06-13-2020, 04:44 PM

Sorry, but I have to disagree (about cars) with Sethmark. I prefer them with the top on and AC blasting. Less sunburn that way too!
Keith

JOP33

06-14-2020, 01:46 PM

So I have only been driving the car around (topless) for two days now and here are just a few early observations I have made...
1) People will interact with you more - Not sure this is a good thing :rolleyes:
2) I truly am a fan of the LOOK of the car with the top on and I appreciate a good AC on hot day just like any other Texan, but I have got to say if you are looking for pure driving experience, topless is the way to go!
3) The car is actually not as loud with the top off - I assume the hardtop just echoes everything and bounces it right back at you.
4) Carry some good sun screen in your console - place it in a ziploc bag, so it doesn't ooze on anything when it gets sweltering.
5) There may be some sort of Tonneau Cover in development :rolleyes: to protect that interior on hot days - I imagine you could attach in the rear into the rear cap with some snaps then place some elastic loops to hook the mirrors!
6) Watch the angle and location of your Stereo units if you plan on driving topless very much - mine is a great position as it is, but I was originally going to place it facing straight up rear of the shifter, also trying use your phone out in the sun for directions is just useless!

j33ptj

06-15-2020, 04:22 AM

So I have only been driving the car around (topless) for two days now and here are just a few early observations I have made...
6) Watch the angle and location of your Stereo units if you plan on driving topless very much - mine is a great position as it is, but I was originally going to place it facing straight up rear of the shifter, also trying use your phone out in the sun for directions is just useless!

i have that on my Harely too.... the screens just gets black in the sun...

JOP33

06-16-2020, 04:20 PM

Just a couple quick notes I want to add...
With the top off and a Polished or Chrome Roadster Windshield...If you are chroming or polishing your Roadster Windshield Frame, do as you wish, but remember with the top off sun will be reflecting right back at you at approximate eye level some of the time. Could be a good idea to dampen the interior side polish a bit or not chrome inside or even matte paint the inside, just a thought.

Also, I have noticed (first world problems here) that with the grill chromed occasionally when you are following behind a car the reflection from the grill will flash on to the rear lights of the car in front of you and make it appear to be braking.

JOP33

06-20-2020, 03:51 PM

Sprayed the Door Sills & Cowl area today with this product...

https://youtu.be/7uP1pokJtv0

JOP33

06-29-2020, 05:57 PM

Spent just a few minutes (less than 15) and polished up the top of the radiator this weekend! Just some Meguiar's Chrome Polish and a 5000 grit pad. Now I need a chrome cap...

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Nice turn out at a local show this weekend...

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Also would like to share this and get some input (I have posted on facebook too)...
So a good friend stopped by and visited at a local car show yesterday and as you all know, you tend to have a lot of free time to come up with some wild and crazy ideas at shows, right? I have been challenging myself recently to come up with a back-up plan with regards to easing the exit of heat from the engine compartment. This hasn't been an issue as of yet, but we have not hit three digit heat here in DFW, nor have I taken the car out on a 100 mile cruise with the AC blasting the entire time in that same heat. The commitment of having the star painted on the side of the Engine Side Panels (I know, shame on me) makes removing the side panels really not the best option. Others are using vents, louvers, ports, screens or just openings in the side panels, and I a can only assume they work relatively well. Ultimately, if a nicely CAD'ed and 3D printed custom side vent, strategically placed on the side panel becomes the right option, I will be okay with that. But as this friend of mine and I reviewed the engine compartment, the side panels and how they attach...I think we may have come up with an innovative, relatively simple and (most important) cool solution for allowing an easy egress for the heat. Try and fall in love with this for at least a minute, before shooting holes in the idea...On my car, there are (5) button head screws at the bottom of the Engine Side Panel and attach to the Chassis Wings. Then there are (2) more countersunk screws that attach on the top flange that goes into the side of the Cowl. Our thought is, if you pinned the the first lower attachment point on the Side Panel, then used shoulder bolts on the remaining (4) attachment points and slotted those holes in the Side Panel (instead of maintaining the through holes), you still have the (2) screws at the top into the cowl maintaining the fitment at the Hood. In theory, all of this would allow for the Side Panel to pivot out away from its normal, flush position and allow for ~1" - 1-1/2" of "wing-out" creating a tapered opening from top of the Side Panel to the bottom allowing air to escape out the sides in front of the Door. We also believe that this action could be achieved by a micro-solenoid attached to the Engine Side Panel lower flange and mounted to bottom of the Firewall. With the right wiring and set-up, the power to actuate could be ran off the temperature gauge on the car, meaning when the car temp hit a set temperature, the Side Panels would flare out ever so slightly allowing for more heat to escape. When the car was at a lower temperature or off, the panels would remain flush in their original state. Pics below may show a little better what it would look like. I'd love to hear thoughts or comments on this and remember the top of the Side Panel is remaining in its same location, so the fitment at the Hood is a non-issue. Thanks All!

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j33ptj

06-30-2020, 08:28 AM

Brilliant idea!!

Go for it!

donshapansky

06-30-2020, 10:42 AM

JOP33

07-01-2020, 06:00 AM

It might just work, but hot air rises, so it may still work if there is enough restriction at the top of the cowl area to force air out the bottom. I would mock it up and try a run on 100 degree day, at low speeds like in traffic. The cooling fans would need to be operating.

Don - I will definitely have to mock up something and confirm it helps (at all)...and with all due respect - in my car, hot air hits the firewall and then proceeds through every open gap or area I didn't do a good enough job sealing! :rolleyes:

By the way, I think I might owe you a ride! Hope you are well my friend.

donshapansky

07-01-2020, 09:43 AM

I hope you have better car control than me, if you recall your "ride"!

JOP33

07-01-2020, 11:59 AM

I hope you have better car control than me, if you recall your "ride"!

I see a therapist twice a week because of it! ;)

AJT '33

07-02-2020, 09:41 AM

JOP33

07-02-2020, 12:28 PM

Just a thought looking at your pictures and your dilemma of venting heat, what if you added a blue mesh in the area I marked on the picture, wont take away from the cars look but would allow a lot of air to get past the engine and out??
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Just thinking out loud.

Yes, definitely another great option! Why I love this forum, I have some great feedback regarding this subject both here and on facebook! Thanks all and keep them coming.

JimLev

07-03-2020, 12:46 PM

JOP, here's my 2 cents.
I'd use a 12" long vent from Street Dreams. I bought the 24" one.
http://www.streetdreamsbyross.com/vents.php

I'd paint it the same blue and install it here.
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The bigger the opening the more hot air you can move out.
The next thing I'd do it install a power resistor across the fan relay contacts that will keep the fan at 1/2 power so you will always have air flow to blow the heat out.

JOP33

07-04-2020, 10:36 AM

So I ran some test yesterday, put about 60 miles with the "gills" out. Rigidity of the panels was absolutely not an issue. At least initially, I am just not seeing the benefit I thought I would though. My temps were running between 185° and 200° which is pretty consistent with what I was seeing before. The outside temps were around 100° yesterday. I am going to leave the gills out for a bit longer and just monitor. I am ok with the temp as of now, it is when the hardtop goes back on and the AC kicks in that I will be concerned about the temps again.

Today I am going to work on more of permanent solution for lifting and storing the hardtop. I will try to post pics later if my solution works.

Also have to mention that I hit 3K yesterday on the odometer!

rapidray

07-05-2020, 09:15 AM

I think the solution to your under hood temperature problem could be solved using a little different approach. I would like you to read this article that I found a long time ago. I learned this lesson on a vehicle I was troubleshooting years ago. Trust me the missing air dam when replaced made a huge difference in the temps I was seeing. You will probably have to experiment with the placement of the air damn to find the optimal position and height. Air dams are used on most if not all cars nowadays and the bottom of the engine compartment is somewhat sealed. I would also like to add that the a/c outflow temp should be much lower than 57 degrees (I usually will not allow a car to leave my shop if over 45 after an a/c service). By your description I would suspect that your system is overcharged. Hope this helps! Ray

The problem
The impeded flow of air through your radiator and engine compartment. What engineers found was that the configuration of the body forces a strong current of air directly under the radiator, a flow which does not simply pass under the car but flows up into the engine compartment where it collides with the firewall, causing the air to back up in the compartment and create a relatively high air pressure inside it. If air inside the compartment is exerting even the slightest back pressure, it will inhibit the flow of air through the radiator. The higher the speed, the more pressure and more impedance, and at high speed, this can be substantial.

The answer
Block the area directly beneath the radiator down to the bottom edge of the frame with an air dam, preventing that unwanted flow of air into the engine compartment and thus greatly increasing the efficiency of the flow of air through the radiator at speed.
The best design for this simple air dam we've been able to come up with uses a piece of rubber floor matting available at most hardware stores. This is fixed in place with bolts that hold the radiator to the frame beneath it. The rubber matting, after it is bolted on, can be draped over the steering rods, and will not interfere with their operation. It must be long enough to extend the bottom of the frame. As the air hits this dam, it will force it into place in front of the suspension frame just behind the radiator. Above 25 m.p.h., this system will really work. The relatively low pressure inside the engine compartment pulls air through the radiator and down and under the car. Side benefits include:
1. Reduced engine fumes inside car.
2. Cleaner firewall and engine.
3. Improved cooling, as it can no longer pull air from beneath the radiator.
4. Lower under hood temperatures

RoadRacer

07-05-2020, 11:52 AM

Today I am going to work on more of permanent solution for lifting and storing the hardtop. I will try to post pics later if my solution works.

Also have to mention that I hit 3K yesterday on the odometer!

Congrats on 3k! Is the hard top solution like my neighbor had with his International Scout? https://langeoriginals.com/products/hoist-a-top-crank-bronco-1977-and-older

shmelty

07-05-2020, 07:27 PM

Jamie, Quick question, Where did you mount your tranny cooler?

JOP33

07-06-2020, 05:57 AM

Jamie, Quick question, Where did you mount your tranny cooler?

I didn't use an additional Trans Cooler. I just ran through the Cooler at the bottom of the FFR supplied Radiator.

JOP33

07-06-2020, 07:18 AM

I think the solution to your under hood temperature problem could be solved using a little different approach...

I appreciate you taking the time for the feedback! This is definitely something I am going to chase down and see if I can see some benefits from. I will update with any results I am able to obtain (good or bad).

Thank you again!

JOP33

07-09-2020, 05:15 AM

I think this is the solution for the Hardtop Removal and Storage I am going to live with for a while at least. All can be purchased at the local HFT store. Hopefully none of the items are on their recall list! :(

(1) 440 Lb Overhead Hoist........................................$99.0 0
(1) 2 Ton Load Leveler........................................... ...$39.99
(4) V Shape Wall Hangers.........................................$7 .96
(4) 1/8" x 24" Vinyl Coated Stainless Steel Cable.........$2.56 (from HD not HFT)
(4) D Rings............................................. ................$4.00
(2) 1/2" Foam Insulation........................................ ...$3.00
(1) Roll of Electrical Tape...........................................$1. 50

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HzURrAOddfU

McGuyver

07-09-2020, 09:47 PM

I have that same hoist, worked great on a Jeep hardtop. If you use the little snatch block pulley to double the line it works a little smoother as top is only moving at “half speed”. Mine is in a detached garage that gets pretty warm, I had an issue with oil dripping out of the hoist so you definitely need a drip pan and absorbent towel to protect your paint. (That is if you are going to leave it hanging up there)

JOP33

07-14-2020, 03:41 PM

Finished the tri-fecta this last weekend...installed a third Hagan Fattie (Flattie) as a rear view mirror for the Roadster Windshield. Had to bevel the mount just a bit to get the required angle. Also watch when drilling and tapping, in fact I strongly suggest you take the window out during this process. I wanted to make sure of the placement so I left it in - just be careful. I ended up shortening the (2) 10-32 x 3/8" screws to ~1/4". Holds good with no vibration, just a little loc-tite to finish it off...

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Also added a chrome Radiator Cap as well...

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JOP33

07-14-2020, 03:44 PM

I love the sound of this exhaust...

https://youtu.be/IcLYGr5knAc

j33ptj

07-16-2020, 02:10 AM

Is that yours.... taken the star theme to the max!! hahahaha

JOP33

07-23-2020, 12:36 PM

Was actually approached a few weeks back by the VP of Creative Services for our local CBS affiliate. Asked if I would be interested in letting them use the car for some promotional shots. Told him yes, exchanged contacts, talked a bit more and really didn't think too much more about it, as the things tend to not work out. Well, last week he emailed me and said he wanted to shoot Monday. We both thought Monday was a bit aggressive, so we pushed it out to today. I'm not sure what all they are going to shoot, but I did have them sign a Hold Harmless and a Vehicle User Agreement - just in case. I think they are going to do some drone shots and then some close up of the dash, so they can superimpose their logo on it. I will keep you guys updated! Take care & stay safe!

JOP33

07-24-2020, 05:21 AM

Here are just a few stills from the shoot yesterday...

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sethmark

07-24-2020, 03:21 PM

JOP33

07-24-2020, 04:11 PM

Without kissing your *** too much, Jamie, you’re one of the best enthusiasts I’ve ever come across. Every post you’ve ever written has been positive and you’re definitely a true hot rodder at heart. Hats off to you buddy.

I appreciate your comment - and the check is in the mail! :rolleyes: Don't let cautious optimism fool you. My Brother use to tell me, "I went in with no expectations and came out thoroughly impressed"!

Thanks!

sethmark

07-24-2020, 04:28 PM

Fair enough. You just seem to have so much fun with the car. You’re not afraid of it, you’re not afraid of admitting what worked and what didn’t work, and you truly love everybody’s reaction to it.

JOP33

07-26-2020, 11:38 AM

Nice little show last night at a local Hooter's. Was fortunate enough to walk away with 1st Place, "Unique" Class :confused:...oh well!

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One thing I will mention, that I have encountered at least twice now, if you are going to show your car with the hood up, PLEASE come up with some kind of lock to keep the wind from blowing the hood open. Not only can this damage your car, but if it were to blow off, it could damage many more or even hurt someone. I am working on a way to secure mine now, but usually just lower it, if I am able to catch it in time.

AJT '33

07-27-2020, 09:27 AM

Congrats on the trophy, as stated ion my Facebook post to you, you better get a shelf started!!

As to the hood prop, I am looking at this too as I am perplexed in keeping it attached in the engine bay. My thoughts right now is to mount the bracket and then I would unclip it when not needed. On the other end I am seriously thinking of adding a suction cup, like from a kids toy arrow (about the same diameter), that would adhere to the underside of the hood but is easily removable. Simple and clean and should be enough to hold it in place in a gust. At the end of the day I would pop it off the hood side and unclip it from the ball end. Again, just thinking out loud trying to keep it simple and inexpensive.

JOP33

07-28-2020, 12:19 PM

I agree as well with the "simple and inexpensive". I was thinking of maybe pinning the front hinge brackets to just lock them in place. Others have suggested safety chains or a lanyard.

sethmark

07-28-2020, 01:19 PM

Leave it in the garage? Hoods are silly......:p

HVACMAN

07-28-2020, 10:13 PM

Leave it in the garage? Hoods are silly......:p

I totally agree. Why cover up and overheat all that, shiny, well engineered horsepower. lol

JOP33

08-07-2020, 06:19 AM

Leave it in the garage? Hoods are silly......:p

I would tend to agree...until you're driving in the Roadster with the Hood off and the Upper Radiator Hose pops off! Just saying. :p

JOP33

08-08-2020, 11:17 AM

Just rolled past 4000 miles today!

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sethmark

08-08-2020, 11:23 AM

Wow. Holy moly. I’m at barely 2000. That’s awesome.

JOP33

08-08-2020, 01:18 PM

I try to run it about 10 miles each day, just down the road and back (weather permitting). I drive it to work at least once a week and then on the weekend I am usually good for about 150+ miles.

sethmark

08-08-2020, 04:28 PM

I have too many cars.....

TxMike64

08-08-2020, 06:40 PM

I try to run it about 10 miles each day, just down the road and back (weather permitting). I drive it to work at least once a week and then on the weekend I am usually good for about 150+ miles.

Thats awesome! Get it out and enjoy it! With working-from-home and two young children (and living in a VERY small town), I'm lucky to put 10 miles a week on my daily driver!

JOP33

08-11-2020, 04:05 PM

Hot Rodder's should always have a good relationship with their local Fire & Rescue...

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JOP33

08-20-2020, 05:50 AM

Getting ready to put the Hardtop back on this weekend. I must admit, riding around in the car as the Roadster is a lot more fun - but it is hot as hell! The car also shows better with the top off, but with many of the shows being postponed or cancelled, not too much of a concern right now. Before it goes back on though, I need to sure up some connections on my AC vents. The hardware to install the Roadster Windshield (and subsequent front of the Hardtop) all lie in that Cowl area in front of the dash. When I was installing the windshield, I knocked off some of my vent connections. Since I hadn't been running air, it was not an issue, but I will take advantage of the Top being off to access that area prior to putting it back on.
I also had my accelerator pedal come loose this week! Luckily it is splined on as well, so it wasn't as critical as it may sound, but it did have the potential to be worse had it happened actually out on the highway. It's a Lokar Billet pedal, so it's not what FFR supplies with the kit. The pedal is clocked onto a spline and then there is a set screw from the bottom that engages the splines - theoretically locking things in place. The set screw had backed out. My mistake, as I should have placed a second set screw behind it to prevent this from happening - will do this as well.

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j33ptj

08-20-2020, 06:26 AM

set screw needs some locktite!!

JOP33

08-21-2020, 04:46 AM

set screw needs some locktite!!

Prefer the loctite not get into the Splines on this, so opting for the double set-screw instead.

Thanks

JOP33

08-24-2020, 04:10 PM

After having the top off for about three months, this weekend I decided to put it back on for a while. First, I want to see how well the AC actually cools (more on this in a minute), secondly, this would actually be the first time I had installed the hardtop & I was interested in seeing about how long it takes. To be honest, I think it could have been done in less than two hours...it took me four, but I worked alone (for the most part - my wife jumped in to help with alignment when the time came) and it was the first time. I had been using the overhead crane to store it, so I just drove the car underneath it, centered as best I could, then just slowly lowered the hardtop down. Once I had it relatively close to the car itself, I placed some "swim noodles" under the hardtop just to gap it enough while we aligned it. Once aligned, it just drop in. There are (5) bolts in the back & (5) nuts that go in the cowl area. The biggest challenge with removing/installing it is accessing the nuts that install on the studs in the cowl area. I have several wires and ALL of my AC ducting running through this are...both with removing and re-installing I have knocked vents off. Once I had the top secured down, I took it out on the road just to make sure it wasn't going to blow off (I guess as if I would just grab it as it was lifting off - if it were to). All secure and no lift off, however the AC was not blowing cold. After I got home, I came to the conclusion that the compressor is not turning on, so I will try to look into it this week...as driving with the top off in 105° heat is warm to say the least, but driving with the top on and only the windows down and no AC in 105° heat is pretty sweltering! One of the other challenges that I will be researching this week, is that for some reason the Driver's Side door pop is not popping. It is getting the signal from the control unit, but not actuating the solenoid. When the windows are up and the top is own is not the time to have issues with the door opening, luckily the passenger is working as it should...

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On Friday evening I had the opportunity to stop in at local, weekly, cruise night in Grapevine, TX. This was just a small group < 15 cars and about 20 people. This was my second time visiting and it is just a really relaxing atmosphere...everyone parks their car and then just BS's for the next three hours while some of the locals coming out of the restaurants stop by and look. The green car you see in the picture below is actually one of the last Hot Rods that Aaron Kaufman (Gas Monkey Garage) built before going off on his own...

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While I was at Cruise Night, someone asked if I was going to be the Cars & Coffee the next morning in the next city over. I honestly hadn't heard about it as information on any formal shows or cruises has been pretty limited and very last minute as of late. I can't stand the smell or taste of coffee, but I would put up with the smell to see some nice cars, so I decided to head out there Saturday morning and boy was I surprised! I have been to a few Cars & Coffee and typically there are 20 - 30 cars that show up. I hadn't been to this one though, held in Southlake, Tx...there were 200 - 250 cars that showed up! It's sponsored by the local Lions Club and you do have to pay $10 to drive your car in, but man there were some amazing vehicles there! In some cases it just look like a Mustang, Corvette, McLaren dealership. Lot of great people and outstanding cars though...

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JOP33

08-28-2020, 05:12 AM

Just a bit of an update with regards to my AC issue...the compressor is not locked up, the coil works and the clutch engages with a jumpered 12v, the AC controls are turning on the blower motor. I still need to chase back the 12v lead from controller to relay to trinary to find out either what is loose or not working that is causing the loss of 12v to the compressor, but that will likely have to wait until Sunday. I have a show about an hour a way tomorrow evening, so it will just have to be a warm drive! :(

I believe the issue I was having on the Door Pop was more about signal. The antennae for the unit is up in the cowl area (along with everything else), so as I was trouble-shooting the AC issue I noticed that the wired antennae for the Door Pop transmitter had fallen well below some other wires. I brought it back up to the top of the car and secured it a bit better. Hopefully this will take care of that challenge as all other connections looked secure and operable.

On a similar but different note, I have the Speedhut Legends 6 in 1 GPS Gauge Cluster that FFR offers as an upgrade. I have noticed over the last few weeks that as I leave my house it shows to be "acquiring a signal" for a couple of miles either direction and then the Speedometer finally kicks in and all is good. Does this almost at the same spot every time. Don't really know what might have changed with regards to the area or possibly satellite location, but while I was in the cowl area I also had noticed that antennae had also shifted, so I repositioned it as well and will see on the next drive out if it made any difference.

JimLev

08-28-2020, 08:43 AM

If your low on R134a the compressor won’t kick in.
If your not low and you jump 12v to the clutch (engine running) do you get cold air from the vents? One of the lines at the compressor will be cold.

I enjoyed watching the shows Aaron K did after he left Gas Monkey Garage.

JOP33

08-28-2020, 01:51 PM

Just received copy of CBS 11 Promotional Video...

Should begin airing this weekend locally.

https://youtu.be/EpDvIJSKVUo

donshapansky

08-28-2020, 04:46 PM

THAT IS REALLY A GREAT TRIBUTE TO YOU AND YOUR EFFORTS YOU HAVE MADE TO INTRODUCE COWBOY FANS TO HOT RODDING

Don

1932

08-28-2020, 11:13 PM

Very cool!

Straversi

08-29-2020, 09:06 AM

That’s awesome. Congratulations.
-Steve

Bgardner

08-29-2020, 12:40 PM

Just received copy of CBS 11 Promotional Video...

Should begin airing this weekend locally.

https://youtu.be/EpDvIJSKVUo

Almost makes me a fan

LOL

peterh226

08-29-2020, 07:34 PM

Awesome!

JOP33

08-31-2020, 10:14 AM

Since I had put the hardtop back on, I was looking for a way to store the Roadster Windshield & Cap, so I found a few hangers around the shop and came up with this as a solution. I will likely cover with a sheet as well for long-term storage, however I have yet to trace down my power loss to the AC, so my plan is to remove the Hardtop again this week. I have a show Sunday, but it also makes working inside the car a little easier...

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I had gone to a show about an hour away this weekend...When I got there it was about 107° and hot, to say the least. Out of nowhere, by the time I was leaving, storms came in! Luckily I did have the top on at least, I had not installed the windshield wiper though. Honestly, I think because the windshield is so vertical, I really had no issues seeing out of the window without the wipers and it was coming down pretty hard. The majority of the issues were created by other traffic throwing water up. All in all made it home safe though, hopefully that doesn't happen too often...it definitely proves the car is water-resistant but not water-proof!

broddins

09-01-2020, 02:09 AM

Just received copy of CBS 11 Promotional Video...

Should begin airing this weekend locally.

https://youtu.be/EpDvIJSKVUo

That is really cool! Congrats, man!

JOP33

09-01-2020, 06:26 AM

Thanks to all for the great comments and support on the Promo...it was a lot of fun! Hard to believe that 4 hours of camera work in the 100° heat yielded about 3 seconds of video! A friend at work said the car is a celebrity now...to which I said, yeah it's all good and fine until the Cowboys do something stupid and then you find yourself driving down the road with bottles being hurled at you...hopefully it never comes to that...(and if it truly were a celebrity - it would offer a political opinion :p :rolleyes:).

Just a couple noteables about the shoot...Bill Jones, the gentleman driving the car, is probably 6'2", he remained in the car for the entire shoot - he did get out to stretch his legs for five minutes at the two hour mark and told me his legs were numb! It is my understanding, that the drone they used for the follow shots can be "locked in" on a specific feature (in this case the license plate of the car) and then told to just follow at a certain distance. However, the drone could only travel at about 20 mph, so they had to slow the car down to that speed for it to keep up and then we had a follow car behind to gate traffic a bit. Keith Russell, the passenger in the car, who is now Bill's colleague and a Sports Anchor as well locally, was the Sports Anchor in Philadelphia for a period time prior to coming to Dallas. Luckily, they used my suggestion of location for the shots - which was just less than a mile away from my house.

So, many people have asked me, what my intent was with building a Cowboy themed Hot Rod...the first thing I point out (while completely understanding that there is no denying the connection) is that there is absolutely nothing on the car that says or states Cowboys, even the floating star is skewed & halved. When I am out, I never represent the car as a "Cowboys Car" - I leave that to the spectators. Secondly, I am just a kid at heart and huge fan that let that guide a vision for a Hot Rod. There was no intent of promotional aspirations in my mind when I built the car, but I do enjoy driving the hell out of it and yes it tends to get noticed. Some of the feedback I get is good and some, not so much, but it is all a whole lot of fun! I also get asked several variations of the following..."Are you with the Cowboys", "Does Jerry Jones sign your check", "Has Jerry Jones seen this car", "Nice car, except the paint", "Oh, it does have the same colors as the Cowboys"...but still my favorite one by far is "Oh, this isn't a Prowler!" As mentioned, it does tend to get noticed, but honestly, I don't think anymore than another '33 might and no, I don't place signs on the car while I am driving down the street stating that I am for hire and will gladly do kids birthday parties! Hey, but these are tough times, give me a call - we can talk!!!!! ;););)

Ya'll take care & stay safe...and thanks again!

Jamie

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33fromSD

09-01-2020, 06:52 AM

Now you need to make a Greenbay Packers themed 33 Hot Rod. :cool:

JOP33

09-01-2020, 07:03 AM

Now you need to make a Greenbay Packers themed 33 Hot Rod. :cool:

I am going to leave that project for someone much more dedicated to the cause, but I would love to see one!

Thanks

33fromSD

09-01-2020, 10:00 AM

i am going to leave that project for someone much more dedicated to the cause, but i would love to see one!

Thanks

lol

JOP33

09-01-2020, 06:21 PM

As previously mentioned, I was planning on taking the hardtop off again as I need to trace down an AC issue I am having and having the top off just makes accessibility into the passenger compartment and dash much easier. I decided to make a short video of the process as well. I position the vehicle under the hoist I have, remove the Cowl Access Panels, remove the nuts on the front (5) studs, then the (5) bolts in the rear, lift off the hardtop, replace the vinyl Rear Cap and then install the Roadster Windshield. I left the access panels off so I can get to the vents on the AC. Thought it might be helpful to someone...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z0Z_uH7HhPE&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR040258U2XZFsudzWGPXK07r7Brdv6NNRliP6Akk sDSd7eqPuYhrofsWKM

JOP33

09-11-2020, 03:20 PM

Rolled past 5k today! “Vehicles with round tires are meant to drive, pull one off the trailer today!” ...

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33fromSD

09-11-2020, 04:58 PM

How do you like the Dakota Digital FFR gauge cluster? I ordered this for my kit so just curious.

Interestingly enough Dakota Digital builds these clusters in my home town (Sioux Falls, SD).

JOP33

09-11-2020, 06:48 PM

How do you like the Dakota Digital FFR gauge cluster? I ordered this for my kit so just curious.

Interestingly enough Dakota Digital builds these clusters in my home town (Sioux Falls, SD).

Really like the gauges. Like the fact that they are all in one face. Keeps the dash clean. The GPS helps eliminate some wiring too.

33fromSD

09-11-2020, 08:21 PM

Really like the gauges. Like the fact that they are all in one face. Keeps the dash clean. The GPS helps eliminate some wiring too.

Good to hear...i'm looking forward to it.... 2 more weeks and my build can begin.

Yeah, about a year ago I toured Dakota Digital's factory because I was going to put one of their clusters in my 70 Challenger but then when I was going to order it in spring, COVID hit, they shut down for a while and I never got around to ordering it since. Probably will this winter so I can have it installed before spring.

j33ptj

09-14-2020, 02:26 AM

I like their newest all in one "racing" dashboard!!

https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=878/category_id=69/mode=prod/prd878.htm

It is on the shopping list!

Robert

JOP33

09-20-2020, 11:23 AM

I decided at 5K I would change out all of my fluids, grease all points & inspect all areas for any abnormal wear & tear. Thursday I completed the Oil Filter & Oil change as well as loading in new plugs. I checked the Steering Joints and did a quick visual underneath. I will spend greater time this week going through everything as I have a Laps for Charity event @ Texas Motor Speedway this weekend and want to make sure something doesn't fail on the track.

JOP33

09-25-2020, 05:44 AM

For some time now, I have been working on a plan to eliminate the need for a Build Board and/or a Flipbook when attending car shows. First, they tend to get dog-eared or damaged in someway, secondly, most people don't interact with them (flipbook) - especially in the times we live in today and finally, still pictures are great, but they really don't let everyone experience the true excitement of some of the milestones of a build. Last week, I did a preliminary run with my new adaptation at a local car show and had a couple hiccups, but all in all it went relatively smooth. This week, I think I have all of the connectivity issues corrected and I am hoping for a much smoother run.

I will try to post a few more stills later on of the workings of the set-up, but it started with a dry cell battery that I mounted upside-down behind the license plate under the trunk floor. The battery is isolated from the cars electrical system (I just did this as a precaution - also some shows require the battery disconnected on the car), so I still have to put a charger on it for weekend use. It powers the 22" TV that will run for up to 16 hours straight. Behind the 22" TV, I have a small CEN-TECH 750 Watt Continuous/1500 Watt Peak Modified Sine Wave Power Inverter velcroed in place. I have installed a weather proof plug that connects just inside the trunk, so the TV can be removed as needed relatively quickly. The other end of the connection, of course, runs to the auxiliary battery previously mentioned. I then have a HDMI cable going to HDMI to Apple Lighting Pin converter allowing for me to connect either my phone or an Ipad (Ipad is my preferred source) to run the video. All of this can be done without electrical hook-up or wifi. As an added bonus, it essentially mirrors my phone (if connected), so I can actually stream sports events to it - if need be! I did make a small sun shield as that really is the only real challenge, is glare off the sun, but ultimately, I still have my Build Board if I need it!

Some different variations of past trunk layouts for shows...
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Here is the new version...
https://youtu.be/LLzNlzLCKiY

Here is a link to the full length video played in its entirety (it's about 15 minutes long, so feel free to skip through any boring parts)...
https://youtu.be/H-0Aa9dG0ws

Here are some pics of the components used...
TV
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Power Inverter
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HDMI Cable
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Converter
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j33ptj

09-28-2020, 01:50 AM

JOP33

09-28-2020, 05:30 AM

Have you considered mounting the TV to the inside of the trunk lid? That would overcome your shading problem and people can stand up watching it. And when you close the trunk, it is stored already!

Not sure if the trunk lid could take the weight though....

Yes I have and my concerns are the same as what you mentioned. I have even thought about creating an extension that would allow me to place it around the car at any given time. The reason for this, is that I have noticed at most shows, the standard set-up presentation is to back-in, in many cases what I have found is that people either don't want to or just don't take the time to walk to the trunk of the car. In these cases, I could actually situate the tv on the Engine (although not while hot). The hood would provide some shade and I think it would grab people a little more. I will definitely work on cleaning up the display of the tv a bit. Ultimately the car gets plenty of looks, but I really enjoy talking to people about the process of the build and the video gets them to start asking questions. There are two things that going to Car Shows have truly taught me to respect more...First and foremost those that actually built or work on their vehicles. I pulled in to Cars & Cigars a few weeks ago (in an affluent neighborhood) and there were several Mclaren's - I joked that it looked like a Mclaren Dealership - I asked the owner what was the biggest difference between his and the one next to it...he quickly answered "the color." I asked another (younger) owner, what was latest thing he'd done to the car, to which he answered back, "I had it cleaned and detailed yesterday." The second thing, is to respect those that actually drive their cars to and from the shows. There was a car at a show a few weeks ago backing off a trailer - an '84 Fox Body Mustang with 7 original miles on it! It had either seen very little road time or a significant amount of trailer loads and unloads!

JOP33

10-19-2020, 06:40 AM

I had a fun opportunity this weekend...Due to COVID, our local annual Air Show changed the venue to a Drive-In Show. Meaning this year they only allowed 3500 vehicles each day to park (much like a drive-in movie). So they actually had a parade of vehicles, floats, etc. drive thru the parking lot and I was asked to take part. Ended up being a great show and a lot of fun, but as you can imagine C19 affected many opportunities of photo ops with planes, pilots, etc. as there were no static displays this year. I still managed to get few pictures and a GoPro video from the dash, of the parade. It is definitely true what they say, "If you ain't the lead dog, the view never changes!" - watch the video, you'll get my point!

Star Mobile One Parade Day...
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Mayor of Fort Worth, Betsy Price...
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Mayor of Arlington, Jeff Williams...
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Fort Worth Mounted Police...
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Parade Route GoPro...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hk5KYdVy6s

sethmark

10-19-2020, 10:39 AM

Thats some seriously aggressive music to stare at a horses tush.... wait!!!! Now these are good times!! LOL!!!

JOP33

10-21-2020, 05:29 AM

Thats some seriously aggressive music to stare at a horses tush.... wait!!!! Now these are good times!! LOL!!!

So there is a bit of back story to all of this...
Up until Thursday, we were to be carrying a Thunderbird Pilot. On Thursday, they said due to COVID, they were going to limit any interaction with the public and the crew. With this being a two-seater (and me driving), I was definitely not going to be selected to deliver the Mayor and her husband on Saturday (the Mayor and his wife on Sunday). So Saturday I got in line for the parade... (2) Fort Worth Off-Road Police Detail (on MotorX Bikes, with lights), '69 Convertible Camaro (Mayor & spouse), a Tahoe (her Security Detail), (6) Fort Worth Mounted Police, me, then (13) Corvettes (from a local Corvette Club), some clowns, Chic-fil-a Cow (not on Sunday though), a couple Concrete Cowboys (High Rise 4 x 4's that probably saw more four-wheeling on that grass Saturday than they have ever seen), a few motorcycles, Boyscouts & a float. All of us, in a line driving through the parking lot @ ~ 3mph...with no music! Just looking like a line of idiots searching out an open parking spot, oh and waving at folks!

So on Sunday, I came a little better prepared, when I started through the parade route I just cranked the stereo in the car through the entire pass - at least we had music that day! The '69 Camaro didn't make it as he blew out the transmission on the drive home, the motorcycles didn't make it back either - as for any of you familiar with motorcycles, understand what a challenge it can be riding a street cruiser, on (rough) grass, @ 3 mph. The Chic-fil-a Cow - well, doesn't work on Sundays, the clowns were...let's say extremely experienced clowns and the pass through the parade route on Saturday apparently just wore their a**es out - so they didn't come either. Needless to say, the parade grouping got trimmed down on Sunday! Still a whole lot of fun and a great experience though!

For more photos...

https://twitter.com/hashtag/allianceairshow?ref_src=twsrc%5Egoogle%7Ctwcamp%5E serp%7Ctwgr%5Ehashtag

https://twitter.com/hashtag/AllianceDriveIn?src=hashtag_click

These photos courtesy of Chris Hanoch...

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sethmark

10-21-2020, 05:57 AM

Zero traction, still no burnouts. That’s it. I’m coming for the man card.:p

JOP33

10-21-2020, 06:10 AM

Zero traction, still no burnouts. That’s it. I’m coming for the man card.:p

Will gladly relinquish my Man Card if burnouts is where we are going to draw the line :rolleyes:...at my age I tend to get burnt out versus doing burnouts! LOL!

sethmark

10-21-2020, 06:40 AM

Gotta draw a line in the sand somewhere. :cool:

j33ptj

10-22-2020, 06:37 AM

Gotta draw a line in the sand somewhere. :cool:

Or on the tarmac....

JOP33

10-24-2020, 10:47 AM

Hardtop went back on with the change in weather (I am almost certain it will be 95° here next week)...only took me an hour and half this time to get the cap, roadster windshield off and the hardtop back on and bolted up!

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The last few times I have driven the car, I have noticed it pulling to the right when I apply the brakes moderately to aggressively. I can't imagine the rotors would be warped, but I guess it's a possibility. Before I started chasing a bunch of rabbits, I thought I'd reach out to ya'll and see where you think I need to start on diagnosing this? BTW, air in tires is correct, no leaks in system and fluid is full.

Thanks in advance!

RoadRacer

10-24-2020, 12:21 PM

If your tires aren't directional, swap side-to-side and see what happens?

Any potholes affected alignment?

JimLev

10-24-2020, 01:00 PM

If RoadRacer’s suggestions don’t yield an answer do you have a dial indicator gauge and a magnetic holder to check the rotor runout?

JOP33

10-25-2020, 08:02 AM

Thanks for the feedback. Normal potholes, nothing crazy and when the brakes are not being applied the vehicles drives straight down the road with no varying. The tires are not directional, so I will try that. With regards to the checking the runout, that may be a bit more challenging, but I think I can come up with something. Just to confirm, the runout will confirm whether the rotor is "out of round", I guess I should also check for flatness on the rotor surface as well?

33fromSD

10-25-2020, 09:26 AM

JOP33

11-24-2020, 09:37 AM

Today marks the one year anniversary of Star Mobile One landing at it's final resting place, "The Star-ma-hall" in Haslet, Texas…After over 1600 hours of my time, the time of many GREATLY appreciated friends & family members, another 900 hours from 121 Rod & Restoration & 60 additional hours from Leo's Upholstery, SM1 touched-down. It has been a different year for all of us...but from my perspective, in spite of it all, still an extremely enjoyable one! As the car surpasses 7000 miles later this week, there are definitely a few key elements that I have stressed in my conversations about this car over the last year...

- "This car was built to drive" - "Cars with round tires were meant to drive & trailers are for vehicles that need to be fixed!"
- NO it is NOT a Prowler - Nuff said!
- It was built not bought - Yes, I have a list as long as my arm of people that advised, helped, opined, labored & invested blood, sweat & tears into this build as well & I am extremely grateful to those that helped & am quick to share that appreciation whenever possible, my point being, "it's not a vehicle I just picked up last week from a guy off Marketplace and I didn’t just finish a few mods to the engine!"

I want to offer a special thanks to ALL the members of this forum for your input and continued support. When potential builders either reach out to me or see me at shows, the first thing I mention to them with regards to the FFR Kits is the vast knowledge that is here within this forum at their fingertips.

With that all being said, I couldn't have asked for a better past weekend with the car! I had the opportunity for the car to appear on shirt for a local car show, then it was also used on all of the placards & trophies, I won a metal print of the magazine cover the car was on in a silent auction, walked a way with first place trophy in my class & then the Cowboys pulled off a win! Life is good...at least for a few days! I hope ya'll are staying safe & are able to have great Thanksgiving!

Link to Anniversary Slideshow...
https://youtu.be/q92oLtndw7s

Shriners Christmas Car Show T-Shirt...
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Star Mobile One @ the show...
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Trophies & Plaques...
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One for the road...
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Star Mobile One Metal Print...
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Getting things in place...
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sethmark

11-24-2020, 10:11 AM

I’d love to be sentimental with you. But instead I’ll be consistent!!!!!!

burn outs for distance!!!!!

FF33rod

11-24-2020, 11:33 AM

It's posts like this that help keep me going!!! Thanks and congrats Jamie!

JOP33

12-26-2020, 11:29 AM

I hope everyone had a Merry Christmas! Just wanted to share this...

If you have an opportunity this Sunday (12/27/20) you may want to watch or tape the NFL Pre-Game on Fox, 11am-12pm (CST)…rumors of a Star Mobile One sighting are in the air! Take care & stay safe!

Jwheels

12-27-2020, 12:20 PM

I just saw the pregame show on Fox, the wife and both stopped and said we know that car. How cool is that, congrats.

JOP33

12-27-2020, 01:41 PM

Don't know how many actually saw the entire commercial from Bleacher Report on Twitter...

Hope this works...

https://twitter.com/BleacherReport/status/1343252868669825024?s=20

FF33rod

12-27-2020, 02:13 PM

Woohoo, very cool Jamie!

wrp

12-27-2020, 11:39 PM

Congratulations Jamie, well deserved

HVACMAN

12-28-2020, 12:06 AM

Congrats Jamie! Mr. White was probably one of the most feared men in the NFL during his time.

Tampa33Build

12-28-2020, 06:49 AM

Congratulations Jamie,
Your hard work is paying off!

Straversi

12-28-2020, 07:54 PM

Don't know how many actually saw the entire commercial from Bleacher Report on Twitter...

Hope this works...

https://twitter.com/BleacherReport/status/1343252868669825024?s=20

Congratulations. That's very cool.
-Steve

JOP33

12-29-2020, 05:38 AM

Just to update...and maybe I should preface first by saying, I am not so naive to not recognize that many of you may not support one or all of the following...the Dallas Cowboys, the NFL, the Players, this car or me...I am fine with that - I am just presenting the information:D:D:D.

Voting for Ford Hall of Fans will begin January 3rd and continue through February 1st. You can cast your vote daily @ http://www.fordhalloffans.com .

Thanks

Randy White signing dash of Star Mobile One...
https://youtu.be/oVREK5xYFHw

Additional pics from the day...
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Straversi

12-29-2020, 11:12 AM

Haha, I’m definitely not a Cowboys fan but anyone willing to drive around with a star on their car deserves to be inducted. Huge fan of the car and the work you put into it. Remind us again on the 3rd when voting begins. You have my support.
-Steve.

JOP33

01-02-2021, 06:07 PM

Voting will begin tomorrow after the last Nominee is announced (11am-12pm CST). You should then be able to cast your vote (DAILY) @ http://www.fordhalloffans.com thru February 1st.

Thanks to ALL!

Straversi

01-04-2021, 02:33 PM

Voting will begin tomorrow after the last Nominee is announced (11am-12pm CST). You should then be able to cast your vote (DAILY) @ http://www.fordhalloffans.com thru February 1st.

Thanks to ALL!

Vote, early an often, as they say.
-Steve

AJT '33

01-04-2021, 04:31 PM

jayguy

01-04-2021, 06:30 PM

That is so awesome, Congratulations!!!

RoadRacer

01-05-2021, 09:25 AM

Voted. Good luck!

I laughed at this - what a chore.. "Winners must attend Super Bowl LV, 2/7/21. " lol

j33ptj

01-06-2021, 07:15 AM

Voted too!! Good luck!

Robert

RoadRacer

01-06-2021, 05:09 PM

Voted again. Sorry to see that you're competing with a cheerleader. Good luck with that! ;)

progmgr1

01-06-2021, 05:43 PM

The Ford Fans site seems to be down right now. Too many Hot Rod lovers overwhelming the server?
I'll try voting again later.
Keith HR #894

Straversi

01-14-2021, 12:50 AM

Bringing this back. Keep voting
-Steve

JOP33

01-14-2021, 08:04 AM

Thanks to ALL that have voted & continue to vote...I know that those with no direct benefit from this, might become a bit annoyed or irritated by the constant soliciting of votes, but I am hopeful that you all will remain patient and tolerant until the end of the month - THANKS again!

Jamie

e36m3

01-18-2021, 08:25 PM

Voted

JOP33

01-19-2021, 05:53 AM

Thanks again to ALL of you that continue to vote daily! I know this is probably pushing the envelope on manys patience & tolerance levels - ones that I might add may already be at their limit given the last year. We are just under two weeks left on voting, so at least one of your daily annoyances will go away! :D Until then, I hope you keep voting!

Thanks,
JOP33
Jamie

progmgr1

01-19-2021, 03:07 PM

Jamie,
Please post another copy of the link so those of us too lazy to bookmark it don't have to go back to the earlier page to find it:rolleyes: every day.
Thanks,
Keith HR #894

JOP33

01-19-2021, 03:41 PM

Jamie,
Please post another copy of the link so those of us too lazy to bookmark it don't have to go back to the earlier page to find it:rolleyes: every day.
Thanks,
Keith HR #894

https://www.fordhalloffans.com/football

:D

Straversi

01-23-2021, 11:35 AM

Vote reminder

JOP33

01-23-2021, 01:48 PM

Vote reminder

Yessir! Last week of voting coming up, need a big push! Thank to you all!

http://www.fordhalloffans.com

JimLev

01-23-2021, 01:59 PM

It was a tough decision, Kristi Brown is pretty cute, but in the end you got my vote Jamie.

JOP33

01-24-2021, 02:20 PM

It was a tough decision, Kristi Brown is pretty cute, but in the end you got my vote Jamie.

That's much appreciated! I mentioned on the 33 Builders Group on FB...I use to look like an Underwear Model before my 33 build! :cool:

JOP33

01-26-2021, 09:05 AM

Last week of voting ALL! Thanks for your votes, patience & tolerance!

https://www.fordhalloffans.com/football

JOP33

01-30-2021, 07:41 AM

Ok ALL...less than 72 hours until voting for the 2021 Ford Hall of Fans closes! Please cast your votes DAILY until February 1st @ 11:59pm! Than you ALL so much for your patience & tolerance - it's almost over!

https://www.fordhalloffans.com/football?srccode=501402-011&utm_source=vanityurl&utm_medium=3rdpartyurl&utm_campaign=PFHOF2020

JOP33

02-02-2021, 05:36 PM

Voting update ALL...Did not make it to the final three, but still had a blast! Appreciate all here that supported me! Now back to Rodding for a while!

Thanks

Jamie

narly1

02-02-2021, 07:51 PM

I'm gonna say here again what I said on your personal Facebook page because I think it resonates with the readers of this forum:

"If the general population only knew of the dedication it takes to build your own car and then turn it into a rolling billboard for your favourite sports team you would have won hands down!"

JOP33

02-12-2021, 06:49 AM

Right at 8000 miles as of today. Car goes up on the lift this weekend just for some routine checks & maintenance before Autorama next week (if weather cooperates)...
- Inspect steering connections for tightness & interference
- Inspect all suspension joints & connections for tightness
- Inspect engine mounts & transmission mounts
- Inspect all heat shielding, wire & hose routing for cracking, constriction or chaffing
- Remove all wheels to inspect for rubbing within the fenders
- Inspect all brake connections for drips or slow leaks
- Inspect all fluid levels
- Clean & Inspect all under chassis rails & components - including welds for cracks or paint break
- Inspect all hoses for tightness, interference, rubbing or constrictions

JOP33

03-10-2021, 08:20 AM

Prepping for the big GoodGuys Show in FTW this weekend...looks as though it may be the Lone Star Car Wash again! I have tried to make it to this show the last four times to no avail! The first time, the car wasn't completed in time, the next was torrential thunderstorms all weekend, the third was COVID & the verdict is still out for this weekend!

I may or may not have mentioned this earlier, but I had begun noticing some issues with my door pops not working - sporadically. It became increasingly noticeable on the passenger side & has only happened once or twice on the DS. I also noticed issues in the power windows working as well as the door safety pins - all connected through Carolina Custom wireless contacts below the door just above the Rocker Panels...144055

With the issues being consistent between ALL the power windows, safety pin & pops - I began chasing down a connection issue. I spent about a day verifying that all connections to the plate on the body were continuous & good, as well as the connections from the pins to respective solenoids or power units in the door - no issues there.

I also began to notice a bit of what appeared to be sag in the door...144056

Moreso on the PS than the DS which was consistent with where I was seeing the majority of the issues with the pops, pins, etc.. I then checked the door for movement. I was extremely surprised to see that I could lift up on the front of the door & generate some lift. The hinges attach to the chassis through the use of machined shoulder bolts & in my case I opted for Delrin Bushings instead of the FFR supplied Brass Bushings - mainly due to squeaking that some were reporting. I spent this last weekend taking the PS Door hinge connection apart & to my surprise the Delrin Bushings had already began to wear. I have since replaced with a Brass Bushing similar to the one FFR had originally supplied. Probably a good time to interject that Kory at the time of installing the doors warned me against using the Delrin vs the Brass - just thought I should share for full disclosure. The brass bushings did eliminate the up/down movement in the door, but didn't really help with the connection issues I was having.

Important for me to note here that ALL other hardware points of attachment within the hinge assembly on the chassis & in the door itself were completely tight with no movement found.

I then began flexing the body at the Rocker in front of the rear wheels & noticed that I could flex it out about 3/16" - 1/4" from its resting position. Just out of curiosity, I grabbed the door pop fob & crawled back to the floor to flex the body once again. With just a slight tug & hold & a push of a button on the fob the door popped just like the day it came home! The quick fix was that I just shimmed between the lower chassis tube & the body just a bit to force it out - it, along with the window & safety pin have now worked consistently for the last few days. I am working on a long-term fix for this & will share when & if I come up with it - right now I am leaning toward an adjustable rubber bumper on the chassis. It may be that the body mounts just need a bit of tweaking, but I ran out of time to delve into that this last weekend. It appears to me, that although there was some definite sag in the doors (& still is on one side as I only worked the PS this weekend) I am seeing some results of a full fiberglass body with a few miles on it. The alignment variation at the door, seems to be less about the door & more about the entire body around it.

Just a pic of the shoulder bolt with the brass bushings...144063

In closing, I don't want to chase everyone off completely from the Delrin Bushing, but at least in my instance they seemed to not hold up well.

progmgr1

03-10-2021, 05:04 PM

Kamp

03-10-2021, 05:44 PM

Hey Jamie - Thanks for the heads up about the Delrin bushings! I bought a set from Tim Whittaker but may not use them based on your post, since I'm planning to use my '33 as a daily driver. I'll be interested to see your approach to the long term body shape changes that you and others are experiencing.
Thanks, Keith HR #894

Hi Jamie, I noticed the same play issue when I replaced the bronze bushings in the pass door with the delrin but had left the drivers door for later bushing replacement. After a while there was more play in the door that had the delrin bushings.

JOP33

03-16-2021, 04:59 AM

Good Guys Show in Fort Worth this last weekend actually turned out to be a great weekend! Just some light sprinkles Friday & Saturday, but Sunday was perfect! Factory Five made a pretty good showing that day as Larry Chappell, myself & another builder with the Type 65 Coupe was out there. Dave Smith's ears should have been burning ALL day...as Larry & I talked to MANY people about our builds & Factory Five! Met a gentleman, Randy, from Athens, Texas who had shelved his build for a year or so to work on his wife's truck & he left completely inspired to get back on his '33 and finish it! It's going to shows like that and having those types of discussions that make for such enjoyable weekends! Close to 2000 vehicles out at the show!

Also had the chance to see a few vehicles you don't typically see...

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JOP33

05-01-2021, 11:42 AM

Been sometime since I have posted anything of significance here, so I will try and update a bit in a few post.

I had been experiencing some slide in the front when applying my brakes. Under normal driving conditions, this hadn't been an issue, but if I approached a stop sign (or light) that the least bit of gravel at it, in some cases the car would slide. When I was positioning the car inside the hall for Autorama this year (polished concrete), I was having to drive in low & use my E-Brake to help come to a complete stop. Finally, I did a small show a couple months back & as I was leaving (coming off gravel parking) I almost couldn't get the car to stop as it approached a curb! I decided on the drive home from that show that it was going up on the rack I was going to figure out what was going on! The short of it was I believe I had a bad front MC (or at least a seal)...it was allowing the pressure to build for application, but not releasing - or at least releasing extremely slow. I am almost certain I could have rebuilt the MC, but I just opted to purchase a new one from Summit & install it. After finally getting the set-up dialed in a bit, I am pretty happy with the brakes again & so far no sliding. I did take this time to go ahead and install a Remote Bias Bar Adjustment Knob. I don't know how often I will use this, but it was relatively inexpensive & mounted right under the dash. It allows me to give more or less bias at a quick turn of the knob - I would definitely recommend installing one!

Front Master Cylinder...
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New Master Cylinder with Remote adjuster attached to threaded rod on the right...
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Better shot of the attachment...
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Remote Adjustment Knob mounted on the Pedal Box (pic shot from floorboard up)...
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JOP33

05-01-2021, 12:24 PM

After missing one of the closest Car Shows that I will ever have an opportunity to go to, due to my Brake rebuild, I was suppose to hit a local show in Bridgeport, Texas about 40 minutes north of me. I had done this show last year as one of my first and it was a great show. About 150 cars last year. At the last minute on a Friday, another opportunity presented itself. On Saturday, at a Mall in Denton, Texas about 45 minutes away from and scheduled for the same time as the show, Former Dallas Cowboy Defensive Ends, Ed "Too Tall" Jones & Tony Tolbert were going to be on locations signing autographs. I called the shop owner within the mall just to ask him the logistics of even getting them to the car to sign it & if he thought they would. He said that if I parked in the Mall parking lot, he could text me to pull up as each of them were scheduled to leave & was almost certain they would sign the dash! I also told him I would send pics of the car so he would better understand what I was talking about. So on Saturday afternoon around 11 am, I headed to Denton - they were scheduled at different times from 1 - 3pm & I didn't know how many people would show.
Once I got to the Mall, I parked outside of a Ross Department store & walked all the way through it to the store front, where I found the Owner. I told him where I had parked & he immediately said "Did Security not stop you"? I said no, should they have? He said "Oh yes, I got the pics of the car yesterday you sent, they want you to pull the car into the Mall in front of the store right here - my wife has gone to get mats for the tires & a pan to catch oil (the Malls only requirements apparently)". I laughed, & said ok. Needless to say, 45 minutes later, I had the car parked inside of Golden Triangle Mall in Denton, Texas basically @ a one car Car Show with Ed Jones & Tony Tolbert scheduled to begin signing autographs in less than 15 minutes! Crazy! Just to finalize, both Players were great participants & a blast to hang around with - & both signed the dash! You can't really hear it in the video, but when Jones finishes signing, he says "Tell Randy I signed above his signature - he'll know why"!
The next day, I did make it to a small Church show to show off the new signatures & did take some hardware home! Great & unexpected weekend!

Mom, I'll be at the Mall...
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Too Tall...
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https://youtu.be/fO1FuiGyW-I

Tony Tolbert...
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https://youtu.be/iChSGuYNipM

Dash Update: Randy, Too Tall & Tony...
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Class Winner on Sunday...
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JOP33

06-18-2021, 09:22 AM

After a slight rain delay this last weekend, I was able to make the drive out to the Star in Frisco, for the 11th Annual Shelby Cobra Car Show at The Star. For those that don't know, the Star is the Headquarters & Training Facility to the Dallas Cowboys. Great show once I made it out & got to meet many great folks & fans! I also took the opportunity to have Aaron Shelby, the Grandson of Carroll Shelby, sign the Air Cleaner Cover on the car.

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RoadRacer

06-18-2021, 10:45 AM

Looks great given the miles you're racking up!

JOP33

06-18-2021, 11:50 AM

Looks great given the miles you're racking up!

Yep! Just under 11k! Cars with Round Tires are meant to drive...there are museums for cars that don't get driven!

svassh

06-18-2021, 12:08 PM

Saw your car at the Shelby Show at the Star.

Very nice car!

JOP33

06-18-2021, 01:34 PM

Saw your car at the Shelby Show at the Star.

Very nice car!

Always like meeting other builders or at least those interested. I have lost count of ALL the folks I have talked to about possibly building a FFR Kit...sometimes I feel like I am on the payroll (could say the same for the Cowboys as well)!

JOP33

07-05-2021, 04:26 PM

It has been a few weeks since last posting. The weather has been heating up nicely, which makes for some great drives with the top off. Speaking of top, I believe I have posted my method of removal & storage for my hardtop here previously & for the most part is has worked relatively seamlessly...until about two weeks ago when I walked out into the shop to see the hardtop laying top down on the shop floor! :( Not good. It didn't break the glass, but some of the fiberglass did shatter a bit. I haven't flipped it over to view all the damage as part of me just doesn't want to see it now & the other part just doesn't want to deal with it at this point - maybe here in a couple weeks. Best I can tell, is that one of the cables I had made slipped & shifted the weight enough that it either fell out of the other three or broke one of them. There will be some fix & clean up on this though - probably need to rethink my way of storing as well!

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RoadRacer

07-05-2021, 04:48 PM

Ugh that sucks. Sorry to hear that. Throw a tarp over it and call your body guy to come over with his truck - best not to see it!

JOP33

07-05-2021, 04:51 PM

Now that I have the bad news out of the way...the good news it really has been an enjoyable last few months with the car! I have been able to make it to some really great show, & yes added a few more pieces of hardware, but I have to to tell you, that it is so much more than that! Just being able to get out & discuss the entire build & be extremely educated about it since so much of it I did. I have seen many of you at show & continue to be contacted by several potential FFR builders about questions - & I love helping ALL of them out as well, at least within my wheelhouse! There are some pics below from some of the last few shows I have hit as well as the big news of being able to get the Legend, the Original 88, Drew Pearson himself to sign the dash! He was absolutely amazing & actually stayed an hour over to make sure everyone got there items signed! If y'all have any interest, I have many videos posted on my YouTube Channel, JOP33 https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCjMCDPQPRIRQWTGydpmbwCQ/videos , as well as videos of ALL the signature signings. Good luck to all that continue to venture into their builds & congrats to ALL that continue to finish the journey! Take care!

Local Car Show within the Neighborhood to benefit a local Church, about 40 cars, Top 25 with awards...
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Some fun pics outside a local furniture store...
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About 460 Cars @ this show, took a Top 100 home...
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JOP33

07-05-2021, 04:56 PM

Pity the Fool pics...
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Drew Pearson signing...
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Drew signs dash (video)...
https://youtu.be/ejiiTvLU8VM

progmgr1

07-05-2021, 05:16 PM

Ooooh! Those photos (in post 987) make my stomach hurt! If that had happened in my CA garage you would have been able to hear the stream of invective in TX. I hope the repairs can be accomplished with little time and expense. So sorry Jamie.
Keith HR #894

cob427sc

07-06-2021, 08:17 AM

33fromSD

07-06-2021, 09:40 AM

over the years Porsche, MB and I'm sure others have supplied a lightweight steel cart on wheels where the removable hardtop is stored vertically. I have one for my 911 and it's great since it only takes up 1/2 the area and can easily be moved into a corner. I'm sure it could be fabricated quite easily - maybe one of the forum suppliers code make these for sale.

The Ford T-Birds had a cart available for the hard top too...same design, it stands up and takes less room. Here's an aftermarket one on eBay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/132744797602?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28

Jim

JOP33

08-06-2021, 12:48 PM

Great times for car shows in Texas! Little warm some days & surprisingly enough, a few showers every now & then, but all in all a great season so far! Hit the Cops & Rodders Show a few weeks back in Farmersville, TX - this was the furthest I have driven so far for a show @ 90 miles each way...

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The last show is billed as a pretty high end show. It is an indoor show in Arlington, TX (just an earshot of the stadium) with no in and out (2 Day Show). It's the Yellow Rose Classic Car Show (only Ford Powerplants allowed). I had my full display out at this one. It was a great show & the first show where I actually took multiple awards home - First Place Street Rod Class & Best Special Interest Vehicle...

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JOP33

11-08-2021, 02:14 PM

No excuses for not posting lately...Car continues to run great as I just rolled past 14k! I will update with some additional pics & comments soon! Have spoken with MANY potential builders along the way this year. It is great to hear how everyone has a different way of approaching their build. Love that the community continues to "Roll On"!

Stay tuned...

Brastic

11-08-2021, 04:31 PM

14k!!! That is great. I am about to brake 2k miles and I still am loving this vehicle.

JOP33

12-14-2021, 12:20 PM

I have been at some great Car Shows & amazing events over the last few months with Star Mobile One! In September, I had the opportunity to meet up with former Dallas Cowboy, Tight End, Jay Novacek as he was promoting his 84 Whiskey. Jay was kind enough to sign the dash of the car for me...
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https://youtu.be/fT0Iex0zNjs

Later in September I caught up with the Dallas Chapter of the NFL Alumni Association out at the Annual Wheels for Wellness Car Show in Downtown Fort Worth. Several former Cowboys were there as well & all took the opportunity to sign the dash...

Kevin Smith...
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https://youtu.be/9jIcix0O8Sk

George Teague...
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https://youtu.be/x640B1Oj4is

Billy Davis...
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I took the opportunity to stop by in Grand Prairie, Texas just outside of Arlington where an artist has done a mural of several local athletes...
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https://youtu.be/W-4pzOaZlaQ

Beasley Reece...
https://youtu.be/c_r55msbcT0

JOP33

12-14-2021, 12:34 PM

Events cont'd...

To finish September off, I was invited to bring the car out for former Dallas Cowboy, Tony Casillas' Annual Charitable Golf Tournament. I was able to get both Tony & Lincoln Coleman to sign the dash there...
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https://youtu.be/GTfvlJjPZnY

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https://youtu.be/2L6sdZ2RBFA

In early December I received a text from the Production Manager with the NFL on Fox wanting to know if I would be available for an interview, some photos & video of the car for their Ultimate Fan segment. Definitely had to make time for this & it turned out really good, I thought. They spent about three hours at the house filming for what ended up being just about 20 seconds of video...
https://youtu.be/nZ67UMS3P9Q

Then just this last weekend I was able add former Dallas Cowboy's, Jim Jeffcoat & Kenny Gant to the dash...
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https://youtu.be/frrFJUusEXY

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https://youtu.be/SfIMA1En32g

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I am just rolling past 15k on the car. Starting to get a bit cooler here, so my days are number with the hardtop off. Will slow down over the next two months and prepare for the Dallas Autorama in February!

I hope everyone has a Merry Christmas!

JOP33

05-19-2022, 12:18 PM

My apologies & embarrassment for not posting sooner. All is well with Star Mobile One for those that don't follow social much (I don't blame you). I am close to 18k on the car as I type. Thanks to FFR for the feature they posted about the car! I tried to convey my overwhelming appreciation to this forums support throughout my build in the "article", but also wanted to thank you ALL again. I relied heavily on answers & support from this group since this was my first build & y'all NEVER let me down. Since my last post, I have added a few more signatures...

Bob Lilly "Mr. Cowboy" signs the dash...
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Flozell Adams signs the dash...
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Erik Williams signs the dash...
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Dixon Edwards signs the dash...
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Eugene Lockhart signs the dash..
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At Autorama in February, I also had Danny "Count" Koker sign the air cleaner cover as well as Horny Mike, from Count's Customs...
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The car is holding up really well. The fiberglass flexes quite a bit just in driving & with temperature. My pins that control the Door Pops will usually tell me how much its flexing as they will either pop or nut when I try & use them. This is usually fixed with some shims on the body under the rocker panels. When I hit 20k, the plan is to put it on the lift & perform a pretty extensive clean up & just check things out really good. I have done this to some extent every 2k miles but will dive a bit deeper at that point. The hard top was only on for about a month in December & January, it has been off ever since! I will attend over (35) events this year (car shows, charitable events, signings, etc.), so my weekends stay pretty busy, but I have a pretty good system in place. The sigs have filled the PS side of the dash, so it will be on to the DS this next weekend. Most people at shows still think the car is a Plymouth Prowler - it bothered me at first (mainly because they just think it is a factory built car), but now I have just embraced it & occasionally have a bit of fun with it. I think the best one I have come across so far is, "Why did you put a Ford engine in a Plymouth?":p

As mentioned in the FFR feature, the car has given me a great opportunity to meet some amazing people & help a few as well. I participated in a Teddy Bear drive for a local children's hospital a few weeks ago & was able to help raise a few buck for some bears...
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Y'all take care & hit me up if you are out & about, also if I can answer any question feel free to reach out!

Thanks again!

JOP33

08-10-2022, 01:32 PM

Running really close to 20k miles! Added former Cowboys player signatures Tony Hill, Thomas Everett & Charlie Waters to the dash in May. Not too terribly surprised, was turned down by Troy Aikman! The weather has been so hot here the last six weeks, it has really made car shows a challenge & then we had a death in the family a few weeks back that has curtailed some of my events here lately as well. I hope to get back on track getting out toward the middle of August & then finish strong the rest of the year!

Thomas Everett...
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Tony Hill...
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Charlie Waters...
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Fort Worth Aviation Museum Car Show...
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You can tell how happy I am after Troy saying he can't sign...
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Flower Mound Parker Square Show...
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Interviewed by North Texas Ford Dealers...
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Billy Bob's Texas Show...
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