View Full Version : Kit 075 Restart
Picked up Kit 075 from Bill Ondo in Portage Indiana last Friday. I had noticed the kit for sale on this forum while studying and planning to purchase a new kit. Bill's work caught my eye as he has fabricated some first class alternatives to standard installs. Things that particularly impressed me were mods he made to the fuel line, installing an external fuel pump, his own fabrication of the hydraulic clutch system and several other detailed items that I felt made this kit special.
Challenge now is to make it mine. Bill recommended we go back to the start and go through it item by item and I think we will follow his advice. We got the car to the shop Sunday and have off loaded it now. We are starting an inventory of all parts on or off of the car. There is no proper way to start this thread without a shout out to Bill and his lovely wife Karin. They were gracious and helpful. It is a real pleasure to take this kit and build it following in his footsteps. Bill was also quite clear that I should put a lot of my own self into the build, and I intend to. I am not by myself on this one either.
My team consists of my wife who worked with me to determine what I was looking for and the encouragement to go out for kit 075 in lieu of a new kit from the factory. The rest of the team consists of the guys at SNL Performance in Haslett Texas, including Steve and Loyd the owners, January, Jacob, Brian, and Daniel the SNL staff. James Karger LSTuner, will ultimately get involved down the road. Finally, it would be hard for anyone that didn't know us to appreciate Ethyl, who made a good deal of this possible. Ethyl was my first return to high performance cars in nearly35 years and the second GTO I owned.
In the same fashion people ask us if our 33's are kit cars, a lot of them also said Ethyl wasn't a real GTO. We built Ethyl over a 10 year period from a mild street performance ride that was comfortable for the morning commute, to a purpose built focused drag car that was knocking on the door for some impressive accomplishments. On the day Ethyl died she had a 434 Ci LSx motor with twin 6767 double ball bearing turbos making 1256 rwhp and 1504 rwtq on E85. That power was channeled through an FTi Stage 5 TH400 and a GForce1320 9" Ford IRS with a Mosier Pumpkin and Strange S-Trac Diff running 3.25 gears. On that day we were getting ready to go back to the track for our first sub 8 second passes. Loose gravel, skinny tires, and a Ford F350 towing a gooseneck trailer ended all that. Even so, the performance built and custom fabricated components off the car contributed heavily to this build we are starting now. Our initial intent was to put the Ford 9 inch, TH400 and LSx in a 33 but the new school motor would not let us run in the old Fuel Altered Classes so we decided to just enjoy the FFR 33 Ford build and have fun with the car.
So here was Ethyl on her best day
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EB8DGmtPtog
Here is Bill and Karin with the Hot Rod
http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t327/wrpnEthyl/33%20fORD/4c91f26e-6009-42fc-bcc6-5a961adcf901_zpsrpdhsw0e.jpg
Here is Steve and Loyd as we picked the car up
http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t327/wrpnEthyl/33%20fORD/4e18f51b-aa21-4c7b-8ae0-f2e3b1af26f7_zpsuuc04g7w.jpg
Here is the Hot Rod in it's new home
http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t327/wrpnEthyl/33%20fORD/c10c4923-7e48-4735-94eb-1bd64ddc5ac8_zpsftqbteyv.jpg
Here is My Best Friend and I with the Hot Rod
http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t327/wrpnEthyl/33%20fORD/915b048d-7ca0-4e16-b70e-6b079753de82_zpsfgn3owvj.jpg
Just getting to know the car and inventorying like mad. Kinda eyeballing the Kilduff Shifter
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Working around with the exhaust I noticed two Garret 61 mm Turbos sitting in the shop corner. I really wanted this car to be a fun car to drive, reliable and so forth. But the turbos kept looking at me. So I picked them up and sent them off to Reed Partridge at Works Turbo in Birmingham AL. Reed is going to go through them, re spec them, and rebuild them. They made 1000 rewhip on a mildly modded LS3. Not sure what we will ultimately shoot for on the small block chevy. On the other hand, got a brand new LSx block sitting over in the same corner of the shop. Kind of thinking over whether to mount them low, high, or in the back.
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Starting to move forward on the car now. I have spent a couple of months studying it and studying the build threads. Getting a car that someone else has done a lot of the work on already has advantages and disadvantages. We decided to backup the build as much as is feasible to ensure we went through each of the major components for knowledge more than any other reason. First big step will be to tackle the exhaust. I went ahead and picked up a pair of shorty headers recommended in the Small Block Chevrolet Supplement. Bill, who started the car had done a fantastic job mocking up zoom headers with Harley Davidson Motorcycle mufflers in the tubes. The work needed to be finished though and we were having trouble finding a welder that would take the job on. So we bought the shorties from Jegs figuring to go back later with the roomies, or at best have two exhaust concepts to change configurations from time to time. We took the shorties in to have them ceramic coated at specialized Performance Coatings in Irving Texas. Michael recommended a welder in his industrial park who welded up the roomies so I am on my way to having two interchangeable exhaust systems. The Internet is to fabricate an alignment bracket for the end of the tubes. The shorties will be ceramic coated to a high gloss while the roomies will be ceramic coated in black.
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WIS89
12-26-2015, 10:32 PM
It looks like you all have found yourself one heck of a project! From the looks of things, you are off to a great start as well.
I have to confess to a bit of envy, when you can look around your garage and find a set of turbos lying there; and an LSx block to boot. I think I would like to look around your garage! ;-o)
The engine in your build is beautiful. I can't imagine what the numbers will be with those turbos in there as well. I suspect a pretty regular need for tires will be in your future.
Best of luck in your build, and I have enjoyed reading your updates. I look forward to your posts!
Regards,
Steve
Thanks. The motor in the car currently is a SBC Crate engine. I understand it made 550 on the engine dyne but we have not had it fired up yet so have to see what the drivetrain allows. My intent is to finish the car with that power train and build the LSx/Turbo combo while enjoying the car. The silver 2004 GTO beside it made 1256/1504 on larger turbos and a 434 Ci block. It also ran 9.2 @ 154 fully loaded at 4000 lbs. When we decided on the 33 we were looking for something mild. I guess I am in the process of falling off the wagon and succumbing to my addiction. We are looking at around 1,000 wheel horse power on the LS combo. I have to confess, I do wonder what we could turn the SBC up to.
So we got the car up on the rack today for the first time and started taking a good look at the work done thus far.
Mo Pics.
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myjones
01-15-2016, 08:38 AM
WRP
I vote for twin snails in the back since you tossed that option out there. Hasn't been done yet on a FF 33
This build will be fun to watch. I see you have a drag racing past so we are likely after the same thing a HARD launch.
FWIW I saw a panhard in one picture, couldn't see the banana bracket but I assume that what it has. With the kind of
power you have run in the past I assume you are going to change that to a 4 link and dial in the IC on it. The car does
have a decent percentage of the weight on the back so it should hook pretty hard if properly sorted out. BUT The upper
links on a 33 regardless of 3 or 4 link are so short that a slight change in ride height really skews the launch potential.
I went with 4 link and heims all around to stop the binding potential of the links as delivered but there were still several others limits
that had to be dealt with to get the anti-squat % just right on my 33. Building different torque boxes and moving chassis tabs helped.
Dale B 7L Hemi 33
I have a friend that runs a nostalgia dragster who is trying to get me to go to an old school semi. The initial goal was to not go as extreme as the GTO was. We were talking at the shop today about the 9 second pass coming back with 4 miles on the odometer because the car was all over the track. Steve Addison, my colleague and the shop owner is one of the best turbo idea people I have ever worked with. Steve designed and worked with the fabricator to produce what was one of the first front mount twin turbo applications for the GTOs. He has also done some fabulous work on CTSV's. I was going to just leave the car a carbonated abc but well...they were just laying there and I thought it would be fun to see what steve comes up with. Right now we are debating IC or not thinking we are only going to boost 5 pounds, well maybe 10, well, who knows :) I am pushing for a front mount that fits under a closed hood. The Garrets we have are very small for the output and made 1000 to the wheels on a CTSV with a built LS3.Although we are staying with the small block, there is this big orange LSx out there with my name on it.
I had a lot of parts left over from the GTO and even though the previous owner had bought the first class leather seats, I have been thinking about using the rear seat of the GTO to make the cabin seats for the Ford. There is a lot of useful leather covered console material in thise seats. If I can ever figure out how to get pictures to work on here I will get them up better.
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Another challenge has been the exhaust. Bill Ondo, the original owner did a fantastic jobe building some zooms. I had decided to try to finish them and use them but also wanted the traditional exhaust to be available. The kit was sold in 2009 and Bill had fabricated a SBC motor mount a little different from the war that FF ultimately makes them now. End result is the shorties that are recommended in the SBC supplement won't work on my car. Bill also installed the hydraulic clutch line in a way that I am going to have to relocate it to use the factory exhaust. Of course everything is tentative and depends on the direction with the Turbos. Had intended to set the car up to run on the carburetor only. Original intent was to build an LSx with the Turbo setup. So anyhow. figured to set up the roomies and the shorties recommended in the SBC supplement. Just gonna take longer.
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Stopped off by ASM Upholstery in Dallas today to discuss the seat idea with Sue. First time I have met her. She is very knowledgeable and really has a lot of great ideas.
Looking at the rear seat from Ethyl it seems to me that I can cut it down to fit the 33 easier than the front buckets. I pulled them apart today to start measuring and fabricating. I think the project will be simple. I need to narrow the frames on the top and bottom, shorten the tops. Modify the foam to fit, find an upholsterer who can narrow the leather covers, then figure out how to mount it all. The rear seat console stuff is all leather on styrofoam so all I have to do is shape the console I want then use the leather on the rear seat consoles to cover the end result. What I would hope for is a rear seat/bench seat effect, like the GTO rear. Here are some shots of the disassembled seats.
http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t327/wrpnEthyl/33%20fORD/Seat-4-800_zpsnt19dgew.jpg
http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t327/wrpnEthyl/33%20fORD/Seat-5-800_zpsav3ciws9.jpg
http://i512.photobucket.com/albums/t327/wrpnEthyl/33%20fORD/Seat-16-800_zpsizpkuk4q.jpg
So got another step closer on the headers. Got them welded and braced. Not going any further with them until we start the car. Then we will be able to get them cleaned up and coated. We are also starting the plumbing on our follow on motor.
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Got our Garret Turbos back from Work Turbochargers today. Reed Partridge has been a mainstay of our efforts with Turbocharged engines for the past couple of years. He went through the Garrets and upgraded them/rebuilt them. These Turbos made 1150+ rewhip on an LS3 CTSV. We are studying right now but leaning towards a 376 Ci LSx with Mast Heads and Callies Ultra Magnum Crank. We had to cut the last LSx engine of at about 1700 to the crank because we underachieved on the crank we bought. We thought to limit the build to 700-800 Horsepower but I am pretty sure that is not possible.
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So we are debating where we are going to mount the Turbos. Our main designer wants to do a rear mount but there is so much room up front and down low with the Garrets. Where ever it ends up, I am stoked. Here are some goofing off views of possible locations
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Here are the remaining shots
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So, I have been working quite a bit on getting the doors mounted and aligned with the latches working. I had reached the point of giving up and was asking local area body shops if any had experience with he FFR 33 doors. I have read everything I could find and watched all the videos but was having no luck. With the doors aligned and braces tightened, I could not get the latch to completely engage on the post with the latch extended as far inboard on the door and the striker post as far outboard on the body as I could make it happen. I was concerned that if I opened up the braces any more for adjustment that I would ruin them. Also I have to admit the thought of the stress point on the door being at the maximum outward position just made me a little nervous. I figured one more swat at it before I gave top and decided to develop offset plates for the latch assembly to fasten to the bracing inside the door. My reasoning was that I could move the latch further inboard and then just the striker post inward giving the entire mechanism more strength and allowing more adjustment. I fabricated a prototype plate, not really worrying about how it looked, striving for the functionality than form at this point.Got it bolted up and the door closed with two clicks. Hot damned I was excited. I fabricated the opposite side plate and at the end of the day both doors closed with two clicks, and did so solidly. The alignment is a bit off now, I need to adjust the striker posts inward and with the door completely closing I will need to trim some more on the lip. In the process of bolting up the passenger side door I experienced a problem with the latch no clicking twice, only once. Investigation revealed that the unlatching mechanism can get in a bind with the fiberglass resulting in the door failing to click twice when engaging. I am going to go back to my original install to see if I may have been having that problem to begin with. I do like the offset plates and figure I can actually cut them to fit nicely onto the door itself. They would provide a stronger mounting than the fiberglass sandwiched between the brace and the latch. Would appreciate any comments or observations.
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Midwest 33 Build
03-07-2016, 01:15 AM
Hi WRP, I am just wondering if you were able to get past the latching issue with the doors. The driver side went easy on mine but the passenger side took me a while to get past. I've looked at your photos a few times now trying to think of what it could be that would want the door drawn in that much. Only thing I can think of that you may want to just verify because you got your build mid stream is that the latch pin bracket (that mounts to the frame) is mounted on the outside of the frame not on the inside. If I remember correctly I thought it was to mount on the inside because there is a pocket in the frame that looks like it should be mounted there but I think really goes outside the frame. Sorry, can't think of anything else to check.
Silent T
03-07-2016, 09:44 AM
Hey WRP,
I had some issue with the doors too. I ended up cutting the head off the striker. I filed 2 flats on the sides so I could get a 7/16 wrench on it. I had to file the mounting bracket with a rat tail file so I could get the striker closer to the outside of the car. The flat washer edge is less than 1/4" from the outside of the car. Once I did that - I was able to easily fully latch the doors.
Hope that helps.
Thanks for the inputs. Travelling right now, will try it pout when OI return
I certainly appreciate the suggestions. The striker plate base was on the wrong side of the frame and that is why the doors would not shut.
http://vid512.photobucket.com/albums/t327/wrpnEthyl/33%20fORD/Doors/Door%20Latch-10_zpserdiis2w.mp4
Got the driver's side door done tonight
http://vid512.photobucket.com/albums/t327/wrpnEthyl/33%20fORD/Doors/Door%20latch-18_zpszy8gf0mp.mp4
Our goal was to get the car started this week. We started at the back of the car, wiring it and finishing off installation items. We should get the car started tomorrow. Maybe running as well. Got the trunk finished out mostly tonight with the residual being the latches. Also got the front hinges mounted as well.
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First start today.
http://youtu.be/dwvMUB0Qw9s
So I have seen a few fantastic efforts some of the members have made with Quik Latch Pins. I have decided at least initially, to use the pins for the trunk and the hood. Before you laugh at my aluminum base plates,l we intend to scroll cut them and perhaps do some etching. The good news is that I can adjust the base strikers if I have to move my trunk lid around. Next effort will be on the hood.
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In the last couple of weeks we have gone through the wiring and have begun installing the interior.
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Getting closer to finishing the interior.
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JC Of NM
04-19-2016, 08:47 AM
Link won't open.
Got the interior carpet finished today
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WIS89
04-23-2016, 08:11 PM
She's looking sharp! You've been pretty busy.
I really like your work. I also appreciate the updates, and really enjoy seeing your progress.
Regards,
Steve
Thanks Steve, I have a really talented team of guys helping me. Fact is Steve Addison and Loyd Mead of SNL Performance and Monster Clutch have backed me all the way with time and resources. The younger guys pitch in and help with areas I physically can't manage and they have a much broader and more specific knowledge of critical areas such as wiring. One thing I have learned is that it would be easier to build a kit from scratch as opposed to one someone has already started. Lots of things can be wrong and throw you off but you won't know it until it is too late.
Had to cheat up a little this week. The passenger side fitment for the SBC motor whipped me. Took the car to Kinney's Muffler in Hurst/Euless/Bedford Texas last Tuesday and they are working out the exhaust. The biggest problem has been the passenger side header. They got it straightened out and tucked the collector in and down. For the rest of the exhaust we went with smaller bullet type Mufflers and I chose to V band all the connections from the collectors to the rear pipes. A little more expensive but cleaner and certainly more adaptable to the rear mounted twin turbos that will eventually go into the car.
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Wrestling with the Passenger side header beat me. I tried moving the motor forward, tried the SBC supplemental kits, tried the new downpipes for SBC but I could not get them to work without welding which I do not do. So I broke down and had the guy that built the exhaust on my 9 second GTO work out a system for the Ford. Since our aspirations are mild we went with a two inch setup using the recommended shorty headers from the SBC supplemental recommendation. The car was partially assembled when I got it so fighting to get the FFR components in was sort of beyond me as well. Net result was we had the header on the passenger side modified to curve down and inward, then tied the exhaust system together into five sections. Headers, downpipes, mufflers, over the axle pipes, and finally tips. each major section is tied together with v bands so removal is a snap.
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dallas_
06-04-2016, 09:29 AM
Looks fantastic. Just ran across this thread and love the work you are doing on the car.
Sounds like you are in the D/FW area. Don't know of any other 33's around town. Hope to see it someday.
John
There is a 33 Kit car, it isn't factory five. I have run into him at a couple of car shows, Kellers especially.
Tackled the gas tank filler neck debacle today. When we just installed the components from the kit, the result is a filler neck that slopes away from the tank towards the fill cap that is mounted in the trunk. We were able to shorten the actual billet filler neck sleeve and then shorten the tank and filler neck end of the hoses and pretty much flatten the tube from the cap to the tank. There is only one place where a minimal amount of gas gets trapped filling it now and the tank takes gas at a pretty decent rate. Kudos and thanks to Tecmotion and others who discussed fixing this.
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We have been fitting the Innovative Rodding Console and are pretty close to making the holes in the dash to finish the mount. I am pretty pleased with the awesome quality of this piece.
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The tedious part on the console was to get it to fit required careful sanding along the bottom of the unit. I wanted to make sure the fit was snug, wouldn't squeak and creak, and that it was aligned correctly. As it sits, it sits slightly off to the passenger side, about 1/4 of an inch. The unit I bought was the elongated unit meant to go back to the back of the cab. My seats were mounted and I could not get that portion to fir between the seats. I opted to trim off the lower portion of the console even with the armrest that does fit between the seats. I will cap off the back of the console so the armrest fits snug against it. Also began to fit the door panels, I am going to use rivnuts for the door panels. I still need to mount the electronic door poppers, hook them and the electric windows up, and install the inside cab door handles. rapidly getting down to putting the brake on, then we will get the car registered. Custom Radio in Knoxville Tennessee is working up a sound system for the car.
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So I had decided to rivet the panels to the doors. I am not much of a craftsman. I think it turned out really good. I am either going to have to go back and redo the driver's side panel or figure out some way to jazz it up and cover the extra holes. I know exactly what to do to the passenger side now.
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David Hodgkins
06-21-2016, 05:31 PM
That's a real beauty you are putting together! Sorry, I hadn't seen this thread previously. Looking REAL good!
:)
Thanks David, my craftsmanship pales compared to some of these build threads. I do have several friends that have pitched in and helped. Dan and Tim are also really big help too.
What an incredible experience. All that is between me and getting the registration inspection is the brake. Car sat out at the shop for months and they couldn't figure it out. No pictures of the hookup in the pre-2009 manual we had. The new manual doesn't have the same parts. I brought the car home and decided to do it myself. I looked in the old manual. I looked in the new manual. I looked through the remaining parts numerous times. Looked up the brake install in several forums, youtube, and google. So I get down this road with the Ford Explorer Clevis' and the Lokar cables. I have the Yukon 11.65 brakes from 2009. Can't tell what parts I have and don't since I cannot find a reference picture. Read a couple of good articles on the Clevis and bought two. Still have a problem figuring out how to mount them on the cables. Solved that. Went out and bought the Lokar kit today, figured it would be easier to use with the Ford Explorer Clevis. Cam home and began the install not totally sure but confident I can work it out. So I follow the instructions on the Lokar kit, went to tighten the cable housing to the Backing plate bracket. Well the cable housing won't quite fit in the bracket. Seems to be soft aluminum so ****, I will just pull it through by tightening the nut. ****!! so I destroyed one of the locker cable Housings. found the original FFR cables and tried them, viola they fit. No problem, I can take the Ford Explorer Clevis and fit it on the Lokar cable and pull that through the FFR housing. That was about the time I noticed the FFR Yukon Brake Parking brake lever already had slots for the cable in on the FFR cables. ****!. So I placed the good FFR cable on the car and discovered the ring retainer that held the cable housing to the bracket is missing. Cannot find it anywhere. ****. Went through McMaster Carr and ordered 700-800 different brings hoping one of them will fit when they arrive. I have now cut the end off one of the FFR cables to pull it out of the housing. It has been a bad day. At least now I pretty much know everything I need to know about the brake so I should be able to fab my way out of this mess.I have picts of how to set up the brake handle, the cable going to the handle, and the t-bar that brings the two rear cables in. I do not have a picture of the actual bracket that would join the two cables together to the single cable hooked to the brake handle. Any pics would be appreciated.Sorry for the rant.Its hard when you are stupid.
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So to continue this sage. Called Factory Five today and bought another cable to replace the one I destroyed. Learned that I really don't need a retainer clip. Also got some useful install pics for the new brake handle and cables. So here are some pictures of the progress.
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bobbybuick
07-27-2016, 09:07 PM
what size wheels and tires are you running?
285x40x17 on 17 by 10 on the rear and 205x50x16 on 16 by 8 on the front
6t8dart
07-28-2016, 08:40 AM
It was great to meet you the other day, I cant wait until I see your car finished.
Look forward to letting you drive it
Okay so I bought the broken cable from FFR and it will be in Tuesday. I finally figured out that the emergency brake handle, the old kit models are just Ford parts. Once I figured that out I was able to look up how to put things together. Turns out the parking brakes may be the easiest thing I have tried to do on the car. Everything is pretty well in place, waiting on the other cable and have to get another longer bolt for the front of the brake release lever. We had put together the interior thinking we were going to do an electric brake but changed my mind just wanting to get it done. Had to clean out the opening for the lever to stick through the floor and drill out the holes to bolt it down. The cables snapped into place and it bolted straight up. I even think the shifter arm looks okay in the passenger side.
So waiting on the cable to get here eat arrival is Tuesday. Meanwhile thought I would work on the Roller. I'd like to use the roller but it just wasn't aligned so it would drop in. Putting it on through the waterfall didn't look to be that exciting either. So I sanded down the lower legs so they would fit better in the mount brackets on the car. I just worked on them until the bar slide into place without binding on either side. Was a pain to get it right.
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Pushing towards registration within the next couple of weeks. Left the car off with the ASE Master Technician who has to certify it for DMV. One of our first efforts was to adjust the pedals. He brought the clutch and brake pedals down about three-four inches and raised the accelerator about 2 inches and moved it to the right. This enables me to now plant my heel on the floor and press the accelerator then move my toe to the brake pedal without lifting my heel from the same spot. Magnificent difference in the drivability feel. I had been under the impression you could not adjust the pedals that much.
Also getting ready for registration mounted the license plate and hooked up the LED lights to illuminate them.
Also remounted my seats. I could not get the console between the seats when they were lowered. I raised them with Aluminum Channel and ensured my grade 8 bolts went through the subframe braces. Made for a much steadier platform. I may have to lower them later but I am only 5'8" so I might be ab le to pull it off. Adjusting the pedals made a ton of difference too.
So, finally got the console solidly installed. Suggestion for anyone using the excellent piece from Dan Ruth. Make yourself a cardboard or wooden mock up and play with it through door and seat adjustments to ensure you have everything exactly where you want it before cutting on the piece. Dan put these together with a great deal of thought and if it isn't fitting you probably ought to look at the things you've done first rather than at the console itself. If that isn't a strong enough hint, I will admit I butchered the beautiful console and have spent no small amount of time correcting the heinous decisions I made on cutting and fitment. I am not unhappy with the results. The console is solidly mounted. I have a tail piece or extension that I am still fabricating but the last mockup from thin gauge aluminum is in place and I will use it as a pattern to cut the final piece. I can get the console out of the car by unbolting four separate brackets and have trimmed it to access the under dash components as necessary. John Bradley of Custom Radio in Knoxville TN is going to out the sound system in.
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erlihemi
09-17-2016, 10:57 AM
Great work WRP! If I had known a little earlier in the build that I would be modifying the e-brake and console as much, I would have made the whole tunnel about an inch narrower. The top of the drive shaft tunnel would be cut and narrowed. The entire console and instruments have to come back towards the driver if you wear a harness and the e-brake either comes back and up, changes orientation, or goes between the seats. I really don't think FFR anticipated how much Rodders would modify these kits. The seat frame and mounting from FFR is either really poorly executed or someone forgot to put directions in the manual and parts in the bill of material. Of course they think we all built a mkIII before we built the rod.
Keep the photos coming. 075 may make it easier for 750 and beyond!
I strongly considered an Electronic parking brake. I wished I had done so but getting it together became sort of a priority. I was a little put off by the difficulty in console which is an add on. Also there were a few things that were not intuitive. Others have pointed out mistakes that have saved me a lot of time and money. I think I could build a second one fairly straight forward now. I also may well have my seats too high but once I get everything else put together I can address it. So the car has been down a few days due to the starter going out last week. I had it rebuilt and put it back in today. Really was tough on me arms so I had to get my son in law to come help. Everything is back together now. Also put the backslashing together and reinstalled the roll bar. Car needs a serious tuning session. Next thing I am going to do is cover or fabricate a better tailpiece. Here are some pictures of today's activities.
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Midwest 33 Build
09-18-2016, 02:02 AM
Hi WRP, watching closely to see how things go with your seat height. I am only 5'10" and getting shorter with time and with my seats just placed in the car it seemed a little low so I am interested in hearing what you think after the brackets were added. Take care.
Thanks, the picture above shows my son-in-law who is 5'6". At 5'8" my eyes are just over the top of the windscreen. I am thinking I am going to have to reduce them. At some point I will get around to the hard top as well and I am sure that will have another set of issues.
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Midwest 33 Build
09-18-2016, 06:46 PM
Thanks WRP.
So a couple of new items. Today got a deal on a pair of LS motors. a 4.8 and a 5.3. I am thinking of the 4.8 in the 33 Ford and the 5.3 in my 200,000 mile pickup.
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Also am putting together a wooden plug for the console tail piece. Anyone here use a wooden plug to create a fiberglass mold? What can I seal the porous wood with to be able to put a smooth finish on it? Finished the cockpit cover and starting to fit the roll that goes along the back of the cockpit.
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So I took the rear valance over to an upholstery shop today to get some embroidery done. The guy at the shop recommended I use a Quick-Latch way to attach it to the car in the event I wanted to have it stable yet removable. Frankly, after 6 years the glue had given way and the cover was separating from the fram. Anyhow, picked up 6 Quik Latches, minis, and installed them. We are going to mount the latch buttons to the cover.
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So I am finishing up the car with a few loose ends and so forth. A few days ago the car died and wouldn't start. I will admit last Holley I touched was nearly 40 years ago so I started studying, watched every video on you tube, generally worked hard to diagnose the problem. Was sitting in the car this afternoon and turned the key on and noticed the gas tank was on empty. I thought it couldn't be that easy but it sure was. so with a red face I put a gallon in the car and she fired right up. Went out and got a 5 gallon can and thought, we worked hard on the fuel filler, let's see how that works. Put 5 gallons of gasoline in in under 2 minutes. Awesome. Enjoy the video.
https://youtu.be/aJTETX2T9Sk
May have mentioned it before but one of my learning opportunities came when I bought Dan's Console. It was a totally beautiful piece well done. It needed a little tweaking to fit. Since I had mounted the seats first, I could not get the console to fit. So, I cut it off. Once I figured out the fitment I considered buying another to do it right but I already had the piece fit and secure to the dash and tunnel. All I needed was to secure the back of it. I decided to make my own tailpiece for the console. I have always wanted to do fiberglass and carbon fiber casting but had never really had the follow through. After viewing every part casting video on YouTube I bought resin, hardener, and some really nice 6 ounce clothe from Total Boat. I bought some Pink Panther foam insulation from Home Depot and tried a couple of different types of glue before I settled on Gorilla Glue for the foam. Didn't have the hot knife so I basically stuck to fairly simple geometric shapes and whittled out a pretty fair plug. I actually had already built one from wood but had sanded it too small to fit the back of the console.. I have a friend who is a Chemical Engineer and who has built a complete fiberglassed airplane car. He coached me some msg I charged forward. Right out of the bat I screwed up the resin to hardener mix and destroyed my first plug. Made another plug and figured out I had done the mix wrong. I had bought fast cure resin and hardener. My friend told me that was probably not a good idea. Anyhow, made another plug and laid the glass down. Put down three layers and it turned out okay. My friend gave me some carbon fiber cloth and I went back and added it. I still have to put a finish on the CF but I think it turned out fine. I am thinking of casting another and putting a console compartment in it.
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dallas_
10-05-2016, 07:29 AM
Very nice!
Hope to see it in person one of these days.
myjones
10-05-2016, 05:47 PM
[QUOTE=wrp;251694] the gas tank was on empty. Went out and got a 5 gallon can and thought, we worked hard on the fuel filler, let's see how that works. Put 5 gallons of gasoline in in under 2 minutes.
Always enjoy following your build;
A lot of us have run the 33 out of gas on the learning curve, often from a mis-matched/calibrated fuel gauge.
It just amazes me that a company that can create several different models of well crafted cars from scratch did such a lousy job of designing the fuel tank/fill on the 33.
Then fails to re-design the tank to fill properly after selling over 600 of the 33 hotrods. More 33 owners need to raise he!! about this issue until they change the tank design.
DB
Very nice!
Hope to see it in person one of these days.Lets get together. Have you registered one yet?
Got my Texas ASE Master Tech certification the other day. Pending the insurance then off to get her tagged. L.D. Automotive in Frisco did the Inspection. Anyone in North Texas, they are a really good bunch that understand our cars.
dallas_
10-14-2016, 09:13 AM
Lets get together. Have you registered one yet?
Sounds good. I have registered a roadster, but have not seen a '33 in person yet.
http://youtu.be/bKN2-26dVD4
Hopefully be at Plano c&c 1st Saturday of Nov
https://youtu.be/bKN2-26dVD4
So it is after all, a Ford :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3LRWnNzIhL4
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Yes, one more thing
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Put the sideview mirrors on, now going to lower the seats
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Also Decided to lower the seats.
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erlihemi
11-23-2016, 06:15 PM
Great little helper!! Interior looks good!
Been working hard to setup the Holley Carb. Had to relearn a heck of a lot of the old school tech. The upside is I have been driving the wheels off this car. It is a hoot to drive and everyone loves it. I get more comments on it in a single outing than the average person gets in a month on other cars. Even had a guy in a ZR-1 Vette compliment it.
Typical day cruising around
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZ4210m9CTg&feature=youtu.be
Plebeian
01-13-2017, 03:04 PM
Looking good, when are you going to install the twins?
dallas_
01-13-2017, 08:15 PM
Nice video. Looks like you were just up the street from me. :)
In Plano/Allen/Frisco Area
JOP33
01-14-2017, 07:13 PM
Been working hard to setup the Holley Carb. Had to relearn a heck of a lot of the old school tech. The upside is I have been driving the wheels off this car. It is a hoot to drive and everyone loves it. I get more comments on it in a single outing than the average person gets in a month on other cars. Even had a guy in a ZR-1 Vette compliment it.
Typical day cruising around
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nZ4210m9CTg&feature=youtu.be
Nice build! I'm in Haslet fixin to pull the trigger.
Looking good, when are you going to install the twins?We are working on the LS Motor right now. Once I get that done and paid for we will work the plumbing on the Turbo. I am probably going to build the LS for boost and run it NA, then bring the turbos online.
Midwest 33 Build
01-15-2017, 01:51 AM
Nice video WRP ! Looks like fun.
I have discovered that the camel hump SBC heads are holding me back. We are debating buying new Aluminum Heads or going on to the LS
More fun
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icbl9SujcPY
More fun
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-h6po-mR_g
Local Car Show 12/16/2016
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpDaj4iduK4&t=132s
Local Car Show 12/30/2016
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZzQTTRkziN0
Car Show 11/26/2016
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UzHUTPzqi74
Dino Pulls
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eH9T9D-RD0M&t=2s
Minding my own business today out trying to get the car tuned and came upon a DPS Trooper. As I approached he started to pull onto the road. Even though I was being good I felt a pang of oh ****...Cool guy pulls up beside me and gives me a big thumbs up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=soGZm-lG4_U
TDSapp
01-20-2017, 04:09 PM
So WRP I paused one of your videos and saw where you were Cruising. You are very close to me. I live in West Frisco not to far from Lebanon and Teel. I just put in my order for the stage 1 Kit for the Hot Rod. It should get here in about another month and a half. I honestly have not seen a FF Hot Rod up close and in person and would love to be able to check out your car some day. Maybe get an idea or two and some pointers.
The Plano GTG you have videos of... What days and time do they normally meet up? I used to show up at one of the GTGs that met at the Walmart parking lot on Coit and just north of George Bush. I was in a white 76 or 89 Corvette and it was great until the Ricers and Motorcycles screwed it up. The ricers ended up getting the polices attention because they kept going on onto GB and racing. Wal-Mart finally had enough of it when a bike rode a wheelie from the back of the lot all the way to the front door and ended it with an endo.
When we first started meeting there Wal-Mart said it was Ok and even when the police showed up, they just got out of their cars and would check out the cars and talk to us.
Tim Sapp
Frisco, TX
So WRP I paused one of your videos and saw where you were Cruising. You are very close to me. I live in West Frisco not to far from Lebanon and Teel. I just put in my order for the stage 1 Kit for the Hot Rod. It should get here in about another month and a half. I honestly have not seen a FF Hot Rod up close and in person and would love to be able to check out your car some day. Maybe get an idea or two and some pointers.
The Plano GTG you have videos of... What days and time do they normally meet up? I used to show up at one of the GTGs that met at the Walmart parking lot on Coit and just north of George Bush. I was in a white 76 or 89 Corvette and it was great until the Ricers and Motorcycles screwed it up. The ricers ended up getting the polices attention because they kept going on onto GB and racing. Wal-Mart finally had enough of it when a bike rode a wheelie from the back of the lot all the way to the front door and ended it with an endo.
When we first started meeting there Wal-Mart said it was Ok and even when the police showed up, they just got out of their cars and would check out the cars and talk to us.
Tim Sapp
Frisco, TXLook up Renegade Unleashed on Facebook. That is the page for the meet. It is every other Friday night for the winter. The next one will be the 27th. There is also a meet in McKinney off 75 at LaMadeline every Saturday morning 8010 am. Lots of old school there may steel body 32-40 cars. Of course Kellers on Saturday nights when the weather gets better, usually starts in April, you can never tell though. Cars and coffee the 1st Saturday every month at the BMW place at Parker and the North South Tollway I think Cars and Coffee Plano will get you to their web site. Every 1st Saturday afternoon there is the monthly muscle car show in Plano starts around 3-34 pm and goes to 8 pm. I will pm you my phone number, you are welcome to come over and see the car whenever you have time.
McKinney Texas every Saturday GTG 8-10 am. At La Madelines,NW corner of US 75 and Eldorado Parkway
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXyWrF53qRU
Sometimes I have a bad hesitation in the lower gears. In this case the car fell on it's face in 1st then nearly jumped off the road when the secondaries kicked in after the 1-2 shift. Getting closer to an LS every day
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=waTVNpF2Ris
dallas_
01-24-2017, 03:30 PM
. Getting closer to an LS every day.
Well.... you do still have that LS block and the twin turbos laying around, right? :)
No sir. that motor was putting down well over 1500 to the wheels through and unlocked convertor, TH400, and Ford 9 inch rear. We are going to shoot fro something between 600 and 1000. We will start out NA around 450 and work up from there
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=smxJGK9kfi4&feature=youtu.be
dallas_
01-25-2017, 07:32 AM
Working around with the exhaust I noticed two Garret 61 mm Turbos sitting in the shop corner.... On the other hand, got a brand new LSx block sitting over in the same corner of the shop.
Ahhh.... I was remembering an earlier post and thought you still had those. :)
Interesting look at the engine idling using the iPad Thermal Imaging Camera. Looking for leaks and sparks
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Have to say that I finally got the Holley Carb and the MSD Ignition sorted out. Car runs superbly now. Last dynamometer pull was 275/325. I suspect some pretty good gains when I get it back out.
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Got back on the dyne today. Jetted up the Holley and played with the tim ing. picked up 15 more rear wheel horsepower. She's at 288/323 right now.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20CooycR904&feature=youtu.be
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Also, fitted some ProStar 15 inch wheels to the car.
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DarthTedious
02-19-2017, 09:21 AM
WRP,
What was the issue with the Holley? Mine has given me a bit of trouble being reliable with the electronic choke, and those fuel injection systems just keep looking better and better for my SBC.
Here is a start. Don't regard me as 100% doctrinal, this is just my observations. So there were a number of problems, let me see if I can list them, not to confuse you but to list the rabbits I chased down various holes.
The rotor cap and distributor cap were bad and I thought it was the carburator only that was the problem. Jerked a lot of things around before I found this.
The plug wires had been against the headers and were shorting out
The spark plugs were badly fouled
The gasket between the carb and the intake was torn completely through
Some guys helping me hooked the PCV to the back port which is not for the PCV introducing a lot of unnecessary crud into the wrong places
The car was not timed correctly with a good intial baseline and fully advanced setting.
The float bowl settings were to high spilling raw fuel into other subsystems
The power valve that came with the carb wasn't marked and apparently had been broken by a backfire
The accelerator pump was not properly adjusted leaving first a lag between the accelerator and the pump lever
The Black accelerator pump cam seems to have been wrong, I am curren tly using the orange cam
The Black Secondary spring seems to have been wrong, I am using the brown spring
A holley Tech told me to adjust the four corner adjustment screws 1/4 turn at a time until the lean backfire went away. I had them out to 15 one half turns. Discovered the float problem and backed them back to 3 one half turns. A big reason for the rich condition.
I changed the float needles and have been playing with float levels, higher than midpoint and it pukes fuel out your air bleeds
I put a one inch spacer under the carburator to lift it off the hot manifold.
I hooked the PCV to the right port in the front
once I had a fairly lean idle, 13.1 AFR, my WOT went to 17 so i up jetted from .68 to .72 on the primaries and from .73 to .78 on the secondaries.
I have closed off the transition slots on the primaries almost completely with just a small square showing and opened up a little on the secondary transition slot.
My final timing is set at 15 degrees initial advancing to 36 degrees at 2500 rpm mechanically.
So here are my thoughts on the approach
Don't start jetting. Any internet video that suggest drilling, filing, plugging or otherwise modifying the carb is bogus, do not watch it
Do not touch the carburator until you have gone through and verified your ignition and are satisfied it is timed and advances to the points you want.
That means testing plug wires, plugs, and fuel filters. Not looking at them, but testing them.
Do get a vacum gauge and or an AFR bung with sensor and reader, ala LM1. Learn how to get the gauge hooked up and get a feel how the carb responds to adjustments to the four corner screws. Ensure your power valve is at least 1/2 of your vacum measured by the gauge. I have 15 PSI max vacuum so my power valve is 7.5
Measure the intake vacuum and adjust the four corner idle adjustment screws. 3 one half turns is maximum lean. Anythin more than about 6 turns oput from seated is too much. These screws only affect idle and some of transition. If you have a lean idle or transition backfire either they or the transition slots are the problem.
Take the carburetor off and inspect gaskets and so forth. The transition slots are critical, they cannot be open too far or too little. They will affect other adjustments on the carb.
Make sure the fuel levels are adjusted in the float bowls, I reommend the lower edge of the sight window. I changed the needles
ensure your accelerator pump is adjusted correctly, .015 at WOT
consider tying off secondaries to work out idle, transition, and other systems. You get the primaries right the secondaries are much easier.
Once you get a good Idle AFR, measure the WOT AFR and that will tell you whether you need to go richer or leaner with your jets.
Hot Rod Magazine recently had an article about a 350 with the same problems except it was using EFI. It would be a shame to spend the money and not fix the problem. I argue there is a problem if it backfires, misfires, or performs slowly. The pig won't smell any better in a silk purse. Once you get it right, put the EFI on and then you got something. Just an Opinion.
Tried the Zoomies. Loved them, loved the sound, loved the look. Couldn't abide the scraping on speed bumps and my own driveway. Changed them back
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvoI-ZVM-fY&t=73s
Here is an exhaust clip
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnnOtRbLJGI
Dyno pulls, up to 290/323 right now
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6RSa9JhiW0
Local Car GTG in McKinney TX
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pTnPDAlHRF8
Mo Dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20CooycR904
Swapped back from the Zoomies to the custom exhaust. Got tired of dragging speed bumps and my driveway
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvoI-ZVM-fY
Exhaust clip for the new exhaust
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnnOtRbLJGI
Car Show in Frisco Te4xas
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVbtMgygD4Q
So I bought the recommended headers for the SBC. Those headers had round ports. I didn't really stop to look at my SBC camel hump heads which have square ports. The gasket sent with the headers had round ports to match the headers. Problem is when I bolted everything on the car without really looking close, the round port header tubes were covering some portion of the exhaust port in the head. Inevitably this lead to exhaust leaks. Tonight I put some square port gaskets on the heads and headers. I sanded the header and head ports down flat to ensure a good seat and bolted the headers back up. If it did't fix the leak it nearly has. I am still dealing with the round peg in a square hole problem. I would appreciate any advice. should I look for headers with square ports on the flange?
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Love this view
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnUOUeXF8QU
Another fun video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53w_Oslt8u0
RoadRacer
04-09-2017, 09:34 AM
Another fun video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53w_Oslt8u0
Keep posting! I love your driving videos and how you drive the wheels off that thing - I can't wait to be out there. Fun times.
I am still trying to figure this one out. Hung around to see if I could get some exciting crash videos but they stayed lucky. Had Cataract Surgery and wearing the face shield to keep wind off eyes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HkArYxJH894&t=33s
Mick_d
04-14-2017, 10:11 AM
I really gotta get up there and see that car.
dallas_
04-14-2017, 10:33 AM
Yeah, me too!
Hope your surgery went well. Looks like it did if you're out cruising. :)
That is why I am wearing the helmet. Face shield keeps the wind off my eyes
Another Cruising Video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2blwP-D8KnE
Found a car show I didn't know about the other day. Came upon a Mustang Exiting one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3S70XeUxCqo
Listen to the mournful cry of a horny C6
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxkeG7mtwp4
Mick_d
04-15-2017, 08:26 PM
found a car show i didn't know about the other day. Came upon a mustang exiting one.
haha!
Cruising this weekend
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQOoL-rkw7g&feature=youtu.be
Cruising
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqYtdVK216A
Mo Cruising
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcMayEqwC4I
TDSapp
04-20-2017, 11:37 AM
WRP,
I love how in the "Me Love Hellcats" video you can see your tach banging over during shifts but your speedometer is just sitting there. :-)
What kind of camera are you using for your videos? I have been thinking about getting one for my daily driver (2012 Challenger) and I like the videos your is producing.
Tim
Speedo is not hooked up, I use a Monster Digital 1080p and a GoPro Session 4. Really liked the GoPro but they are impossible to deal with as a company. They advertised an upgrade sale Sunday. I signed up, paid my money. The deal was I was supposed to send my old camera back to them using a Fedex Label they emailed me. The email was supposed to arrive in two hours. It did but the label wasn't attached. So lost Sunday and called them Monday. they said I should change my email software, their mailing system doesn't seem to work with outlook. I told them no and asked for a supervisor. The supervisor said they would send another email around Wednesday (48 more hours). I told them their sale price wasn't that great to just cancel the sale and I would go to Best Buy and pick up another Monster Digital. After a good bit of hassle they refunded the purchase. This is the second such experience I have had like this with them in the last few months. Their cameras are not good enough to put up with the bull****.
I love this car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6posvWQIww&feature=youtu.be
dallas_
04-25-2017, 09:14 PM
WRP,
Enjoyed meeting you and seeing your car tonight. Can't wait to see that bad boy with the LS and twin's. :)
Hope to see you around.
John
Mick_d
04-26-2017, 11:00 AM
Heya WRP! That's a heckuva fun rod! Thanks for letting me sit in it. My knees were at my elbows, but it was worth it. Like you said, if I just glued some foam rubber to the back and floor, I bet I could fit just fine;)
The idea of a sedan version of this is now pervading my brain like a pungent odor. Smells like burning rubber, hi-test gas, hot motor oil, and hot exhaust! If I had a big back seat I could move my seat back far enough to get my knees under the wheel!
... anyone know anyone who can turn a coupe into a sedan delivery?;)
dallas_
04-26-2017, 01:16 PM
... anyone know anyone who can turn a coupe into a sedan delivery?;)
Mick, with your skills I have no doubt you could pull it off. :)
Mick_d
04-26-2017, 09:28 PM
Oh i would pull it right off and it would be so bad the garbage man wouldn't pick it up;)
erlihemi
04-26-2017, 09:41 PM
Oh i would pull it right off and it would be so bad the garbage man wouldn't pick it up;)
Mick,
My Jones and a couple others have played around with the roll bar and waterfall area. There is room to gain a few more inches in the cabin. I'm a long 5'11" and I moved the roll bar up into the roof to get my eye height and leg ratio aligned.
You can move the pedal box forward also.
Thanks guys, was great to meet you all. Look forward to seeing your current build complete Mick. Also would love to see the Cobra John
Well, into each of our lives a little rain must fall
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dallas_
05-05-2017, 07:34 AM
Well dang. Doesn't look like we'll be seeing any cruise videos soon.
So.... is it time for the other option?
RoadRacer
05-05-2017, 07:51 AM
Ouch, how much damage?
erlihemi
05-05-2017, 08:40 AM
Was this the engine you inherited with the car? Maybe not a good break in on the cam??
Well dang. Doesn't look like we'll be seeing any cruise videos soon.
So.... is it time for the other option?We are working on it
Ouch, how much damage?Well the cam is toast as are the lifters. Problem is all the metal down in the motor, it has to be gone through and cleaned up.
Was this the engine you inherited with the car? Maybe not a good break in on the cam??Yes and Yes
So got the engine to the rebuild shop today. They said the motor was a high dollar job. All ARP etc. In their opinion the problem was the valve springs on the heads were more appropriate for a roller cam and had excessively worn the flat tappet hydraulic lifts down. Should get the motor back late next week.
The wait begins. Interesting, I spend 2 minutes actually doing something and four hours going to the toolbox to look for things.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ClffREDI4IM&feature=youtu.be
erlihemi
05-07-2017, 07:49 AM
I go to the toolbox to look for things I already set down beside me someplace! The spring pressure thing always gets a good debate going. I haven't built enough motors with high rate springs on flat tappets to be an authority, but, 20 years ago the way we did it was breakin with light springs first. I'm always being told I run too light a spring, but I've never dropped a valve or floated a valve train except on one without a rev limiter. I like to run a high spring rate with a lower seat pressure. IMHO I'm allowing valve lash to get oil on the lifter face. The higher spring pressure at mid lift controls the mass and momentum (my stuff is heavy) and the lower seat pressure softens the initial ramp. Let the damper or second spring handle the harmonics and bounce. That's enough to start a debate going, but in essence, the only time I cup a flat tappet is because of too much lash or not enough oil. Some engine types are more susceptible to issues if the have lots of idle time on high spring pressures. This may be the one area hydraulic rollers are an improvement.
RoadRacer
05-07-2017, 08:03 AM
I'm an engine noob, having only built two, but roller lifters (and rockers) just make more sense to me. I'm amazed flat lifters work against a cam reliably, the concept looks crazy. ;) Haven't spent enough time inside engines to get used to them I guess.
I am seeing about $1000 in cost going to the rollers on the small block chevy. I personally think it would be well worth it except the iron heads will not allow me to gain a lot more than I can get out of the flat tappet, at least that is what I am being told. I think the major advantage of the LS is the aluminum heads and the roller lifters.
Mick_d
05-08-2017, 09:59 AM
That's a great car just standing still, Bill. Which is good considering how well I fit into it;)
Let me know if you need help.
If the moon were blue cheese and I were a chocolate bar I'd love to have a Tesla Motor to put in it
TDSapp
05-09-2017, 01:03 PM
WRP, I think next time you are working for a while on your car you should roll your tool box next to the car. It would save you half the time of being in your garage. :-)
Tim
WRP, I think next time you are working for a while on your car you should roll your tool box next to the car. It would save you half the time of being in your garage. :-)
TimGReat idea but it would take months to put up all the stuff I found fallen over behind it :)
Okay got the motor back and mounted it on the stand
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Mick_d
05-18-2017, 10:34 AM
I can almost hear the sound of the exhaust from here;)
I bet you loved the streaming profanity
dallas_
05-18-2017, 08:52 PM
get er back on the road and let's go for a cruise.
Working through the price you pay for not doing it all yourself. Got the Damper on, the Flywheel on, and the oil filter adapter on. Went ahead and put an oil filter on to button it up better. Got stuck on the clutch alignment tool and had to order a 26 spline tool which I hope I get tomorrow. Weather expecting hail tonight so we cleaned up as best as we could so we could get momma's car inside.
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So We call this the thrill of victory and the agony of defeat. Got everything together then last minute fumbling torquing the intake stripped two bolt holes in the heads. Considering options for now
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erlihemi
05-20-2017, 06:33 PM
Helicoil kit will work fine. Mask off the valley and ports. Drill, tap, shop vac, insert, repeat as required. :)
Have a guy that has done it coming over this week and we are going to do that. Also looking at some aftermarket aluminum heads. Thinking about foregoing the LS motor
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CPIoIGhVT-k&feature=youtu.be
Learned a lot, or relearned a lot
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jb-VMnLIxfI
dallas_
05-21-2017, 07:24 PM
You sure work faster than I do.
Mick_d
05-24-2017, 12:38 PM
Gimme some!;)
Heil Coil wouldn't hold. Took the heads back to the machine shop. Either to repair or replace with better ones.
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Mick Scarborough
05-25-2017, 01:04 AM
Am I seeing that right? They painted inside of your combustion chamber on the heads?
Yep hadn't figured that out yet either
erlihemi
05-25-2017, 09:05 AM
:confused: Hmmm. I've never seen a helicoil not work in iron heads?? That must be special hi temp glyptal ceramic in the chambers?? Maybe deep thread Keenserts?
Time for bigger port heads??
There was just not enough metal to hold the helical. Now there is and there are steel sleeves inserted. The orange paint was because they redid the valve seats, said it made it easier to see the work. Got the heads on and going to do the valve adjustments tonight. new intake gasket be in in the morning. Hope to fire her off tomorrow
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First start tonight. Fired her up and ran her thirty minutes at various speeds between 100 rpm and 2500 rpm. Letting her cool now for the second set tomorrow.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SnpW1bQfvnQ&feature=youtu.be
RoadRacer
05-27-2017, 12:18 AM
Nice!
Funny thing about this is I have been screwing around with Hot Rods for the past few years. I now feel closer to this car than any of the ones I have owned recently.
First Drive Today
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Vix-BueoC4
Rushing to get the car together wound up wit pretty bad exhaust leaks on both sides. The cheap chinese heads on the motor are somewhat sketchy on bolt holes and the strength of the metal. We took the headers off and read the leaks, noting where the most obvious were. using the old gaskets as a template, sanded the exhaust port openings flat eliminating as much of the low areas as is possible. Repeated the process on the other side then sanded the flanges on the headers flat. When everything looked as good as the arthritis would let me I ran a tap into the heads to clean out the holes. There was quite a bit of debris in them which I found surprising marked off the depth of the tap and made sure the bolts all went in equally then put them back together using the Fuel-Pro gaskets that separately seal each port. Really stoked by the results.. No Tick Tick Tick
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Having a hard time, valves are sticking. Assuming the heads are just garbage. Got a set of Vortec Heads today from a good friend. Try that route to see if it works better.
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RoadRacer
06-04-2017, 07:27 AM
Man you're having a hard time over there. She's making you pay a toll for all those fun miles we've been watching!
I had a 46 harley in my younger days, had head work done and they put bronze guides in . Had all kind of problems , hound them until they were no good!! Found a old person that made guides out of good cast iron, no more problems with valves!
Mainly inexperience. Went back through and readjusted the valves today. I think a couple of pushrods might have been bent when we were installing the motor. Rockers are still loose but car runs without indication of sticking valve for now. May never have been sticking valves, my have just been numerous too loose. Kind of embarrassing but all goes to experience. I think a new set of polylocks, maybe even new rockers, and new pushrods might be what I need.
Hard tail with the knucklehead?
Yes, 12 over springer with 3/4 rake, hand shift on trany . Dam we had a lot of fun!
I had a 48, suicide clutch jockey shift, knucklehead, springer. Funny, we didn't take pictures then.
Hard party and ride, suicide clutch was fun after to much party! No cell phone = no pics.Had some pics but they went down river in flood of 97.
Ever the learning process. So, pretty much every video on the internet says to adjust flat tappet lifter valve lash you screw the retainer nut in until the pushrod has zero lash, defined as either some resistance to spinning in your fingers to not spinning in your fingers. Most of the videos then advise you to turn a further 1/4 to full turn. almost all universally agree that 1/4 turn is the performance setting. so I been screwing around with this for some time and the valve train noise was excessive. The valve lash was too loose. So I set them where I thought they would be then drove the car and kept adjusting down 1/8 turn until the n rise went away and the engine idle characteristics smoothed out. Car sounds really good now and seems to run okay. Will need to retune it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kbFoaiVhXA
Engine headaches have dominated everything about my build for the last two months. Yesterday, just to take a break, I went back to work on something I have truly enjoyed working on for some time now. I have been fabricating my own carbon fiber panels either from scratch or by skinning other parts. The target has been the inner door panel and kick panel. I bought a pair of the excellent kick panels from Tim and finally got around to looking at installing them. I skinned them with Carbon Fiber to match panels I created to cover the mess I made of the original FFR panels trying to fit the doors and get the latches to work. I still have some work to do but I like the way it is going. When I get the fitment exact I will build more panels. We are in a prototyping stage right now.
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As you can see there is a gap at the bottom along the door sill. I am leaning towards fiberglassing or carbon fiber construction of an additional sill piece that will fit in the blue tape areas.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Fj9HIAh93M&feature=youtu.be
kraftee
06-09-2017, 09:41 AM
wrp,
Do those inside door handle extensions you made reduce the effort of opening the doors? My doors fit perfectly, but sitting in the seat, it's still a bit awkward to push down on the little chrome buttons. My wife just doesn't have the strength to open hers! Looking for a solution similar to yours.
Eric
I find the biggest problem with the latches is that they tend to bind with any pressure except directly backwards. These hands actually lever downwards and make them extremely easy to use. They never stick and they never bind. I am trying to figure out a better setup. I can see that the cable pulls which pull straight back against the lever would also work well. I could not get the little screw in bars that you pull on to work at all.
Just to keep it all in one build thread
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Took her to an old school maestro to help me shortcut all the things I didn't know. He is going through the engine setup and tweaking it.
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Midwest 33 Build
06-14-2017, 08:45 PM
Looking Good, WRP !
Thanks, it is amazing how you have to develop a keen sense of attention to detail to ensure everything is working together.
So, I have been working for some time to try to get this motor combination right. Each time I think I have gotten to the core issue I find another layer of the onion that needs to be peeled. The car has always run rich and in my opinion the last engine was screwed because of it. Rebuilt the long block and dealt with issues concerning the heads. Got the head issues resolved and Although everything seemed to work better, after a couple of hours running it would go back to missing and running rich. As I am learning I found that there was a problem with the Blue Holley Electric Fuel Pump I had on the car when I bought it. The Holley Blue goes up to 14psi and comes with a regulator. A major problem with these units is pressure creep where you can start out at 4 1/2 to 5 psi and creep up. My regulator was mounted right in the exhaust header heat, and my fuel line was running very near the mufflers. I took the whole fuel system out of the car and replaced the Holley Blue with a Holley Red Pump, eliminated a very old school Fram HPG1 pre filter. Re insulated all of the fuel line and rerouted it down the middle of the car much farther from the encroaching exhaust. I still need to clean up the electrical connections but hope to have it started in the next couple of days.
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H R Lucky
06-20-2017, 08:07 PM
WRP, sounds like you are getting a handle on the problems, good detective work.
I had to laugh at the first picture on post #191, what I saw was a little swivel seat mounted to the carb, I guess I have a pretty good imagination.
Ha, Ha!
Nevin
WRP, sounds like you are getting a handle on the problems, good detective work.
I had to laugh at the first picture on post #191, what I saw was a little swivel seat mounted to the carb, I guess I have a pretty good imagination.
Ha, Ha!
NevinWell I had never expected a "crate Engine" to be so short on matched up systems. Been 50 years since I have been this intimate with one. Fact is, not a lot of people around anymore that can simply troubleshoot and fix an issue on one of these. I am fortunate enough to know a couple. LoL sort of an aerodynamic wing
Here is a before and an after on the fuel line rebuild. In the before picture the line was routed down the right side of the vehicle (passenger side). It came up the firewall beside the overflow tank and ran to the regulator, then a line ran across the firewall to the carburetor fuel inlet tube behind the carb where it mounted to a filter. We eliminated the regulator and moved the line to the middle of the car. It runs away from the exhaust as much as is possible and comes up the back of the engine in the middle where it mounts to the fuel inlet. The entire line is insulated. Also removed an excessive canister fuel pre pump. All in all the car runs much better now.
Before: 69232
After: 69233
RoadRacer
06-21-2017, 12:49 PM
wrp, sounds like you are getting a handle on the problems, good detective work.
I had to laugh at the first picture on post #191, what i saw was a little swivel seat mounted to the carb, i guess i have a pretty good imagination.
Ha, ha!
Nevin
lol
Difference between the Holley Blue with pre filter and Holley Red Pumps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZJI4qrTtqE
Mick_d
06-23-2017, 10:57 AM
Maaan, what a rumble. That thing makes the earth shake like it was King Kong stomping on ducks on fire. Four thumbs up!
My uncle is an avid enthusiast and lives in the LA area. He came to visit this week and drove my 33. He has driven in competitive motorsports for nearly 50 years including all manner of road racing and served as an HPDE instructor, or the equivalent for years. He currently has an all out BMW Track car, a Ferrari Spider, and a TT Porsche. His comments on the 33 were very favorable although there was no place he could really get it up to potential.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhM_tC_8KDw
Mick_d
06-24-2017, 12:12 PM
Man, what a great sound.
TDSapp
06-26-2017, 10:42 AM
Man, what a great sound.
I agree with Mich, that sounds great.
So how did it feel to be sitting in the passenger seat this time?
Tim
With him driving it was a great feeling, chance to look and listen to things and get his opinion.
Tampa33Build
06-27-2017, 12:00 PM
Hope mine sounds that good!
Are you using FFR mufflers?
No sir on FFR mufflers. Probably should have used them. My SBC conversion was purchased initially in 2009. The motor mounts were designed for a Ford motor. A good deal of the setup was fabricated. The original kit owner put together a really cool set of roomies with HD MC mufflers in the tubes. Zoomies would not clear my driveway so needed an exhaust. Had a custom shop fabricate the entire system including modifying the header collectors. The whole system has T flange connectors.
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They should have put the zoomies just over the bottom frame rail.
TDSapp
06-28-2017, 10:22 AM
WRP,
Do you by chance have any video with the Zoomies on your car? I would love to hear how they sound.
Tim
Does a bear **** in the woods :) Zoomies
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIOzM6kvkPo
Mo Zoomie
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_DA54tg0fE
Mo zaust clip
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NnnOtRbLJGI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELvNOghITGM&t=14s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnzrgqWXCSA
Going over the body very carefully trying to clean and repair surface damage. Do you wet sand the Gel Coat?
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Passenger side
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Half of my posts have disappeared, did I offend someone?
RoadRacer
08-27-2017, 05:35 PM
Half of my posts have disappeared, did I offend someone?
I see 217 posts going all the way to the beginning and recent cruises. Not that I can help you, but what is missing?
Was reasonably sure there were a few posts between 07-14 and now. Not a problem, just wondered if I had posted something that broke a rule
RoadRacer
08-27-2017, 10:03 PM
Having followed your threads intently, I think that's extremely unlikely ;)
I guess I have been so caught up in this 4 Link and axle tube business I just haven't posted anything
HVACMAN
08-28-2017, 09:30 AM
Bill, I noticed on the Facebook Group site, some of your posts have the message: "This attachment may have been removed or the person who shared it may not have permission to share it with you."
TDSapp
08-28-2017, 10:00 AM
I noticed on the Facebook Group site, some of your posts ...
What Facebook group might that be?
HVACMAN
08-28-2017, 10:52 AM
What Facebook group might that be?
Factory Five 33 Hot Rod Builders
bummer, I went back to ensure that everything was wide open
So dedicated the weekend to sorting out the pinion angle and four wheel alignment. We've got everything pretty close, close enough to call it a success.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3AouhvXBYE
Trying some Camera Angles out
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Dzw5HmTIts
Happy Veteran's Day
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlYHb6tw1w0&t=3s
Happy Veteran's Day
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQM-RjgNwmA
Happy Veteran's Day
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wLmBGAHLRa8
Half a League...Half a League...Half a League...Onward!
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RoadRacer
11-14-2017, 01:52 PM
What's this, winter clothes? :)
Bald Head got tired of the sun, got tired of tripping over it, iPhone overheating in the sunlight, AFR LMII overheating in sunlight. The rest of you make it look so easy. Just told my wife to hold my beer and watch this
Mick_d
11-14-2017, 02:19 PM
Very nice! I bet I STILL can't fit in it!;)
RoadRacer
11-14-2017, 02:20 PM
Just told my wife to hold my beer and watch this
:D Keep that videoing running, so we can hear the swearing
We could cut a hole in the roof like Jaws had on the James Bond movies :)
Mick_d
11-14-2017, 09:16 PM
gonna have to move the steering wheel up and the seat way back too;)
:) Are the trucks going to be any better?
Mick_d
11-17-2017, 01:47 PM
Probably not, no. Higher roof is all. I'd have to move the frame crossmember that sits right behind the cab back, and if I'm gonna have to do that I may as well do the sedan I want.
Still, in the future. Let me finish this Porsche I've been working on for three years now. Having trouble with a custom shop getting any response, the've had the car 6 months for a 3 month job and they aren't responding to me.
Dropped the car off at Kory Ritter's 121 Rod & Restoration in Trenton Texas. Kory is going to help me fine tune the assembly, finish the body and paint the car. First up he is going to reset the doors and install the hard top. Things I probably should have done myself but I like his work and he is going to include me in the process so I can learn things.
Mick_d
01-10-2018, 12:34 PM
I hope he's done with the car! Mine ought to be done in a month. Soon as I get the paperwork and a plate I'm heading your way with John!
So I fiddled around with the car as a roadster for about a year. Was a hoot and I really enjoyed it. Learned a lot about how it went together and so forth. I decided I wanted to up it a notch and add the roof, hood, side skirts, fenders, and paint it. Found a shop that has a very good track record for rods and restorations. Talked to the owner and he is a kindred spirit. Really got along with him well. I decided to let him take the car and finish it, ensure the panels were straight, work the gaps and install all the things in the factory five design I had been unable or unwilling to try. At the end of the day he will paint it. I had mixed emotions about it because I truly enjoyed working on the car. Having someone else do it feels sort of like I am not doing something I should. I bug them to death hanging around the shop watching them work and asking questions. These are really good guys and they are including me in the process so I understand what they are doing. The shop owner is going to let me work on the final body prep and sanding and explain about the fiberglass work. I would have done a lot of damage to the car trying to learn these things on my own so it seemed like a good deal. One of the early benefits is that they have mounted the top and the electric windows and everything is aligned and works. They have installed the hood, side skirts, nose cone and trunk hardware and it works. They have installed the door exterior handles and have installed the interior cup handles and they work. I had to make a few purchases from Factory Five of parts I had lost over the last 2-3 years. After deciding to paint the car I figured it would be smarter to put front fenders on it so I have had them do that as well. Hopefully the build will be essentially complete within a month from now, we are well over halfway through the list of things to do. This has all been done in two weeks.
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RoadRacer
01-21-2018, 09:11 AM
I'm hoping you pick the olive drab airforce theme, have you decided yet?
When I got looking I found several similar P40 motifs. Probably will go wit a simpler motif, Dark Blue or Dark Green with gold trim
erlihemi
01-21-2018, 05:33 PM
Now that you have a hardtop you may want some snow tires on a spare set of torq thrusts...;)
Now that you have a hardtop you may want some snow tires on a spare set of torq thrusts...;)Yep, probably ought to put bumpers on it too
We got the trunk lid braces and gas shocks in today
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We narrowed the front fenders and centered them on the tire
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We also began an earnest prep for primer
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Looks like some other interesting autos in shop!