Jazzman’s #8745 "Flip Top" Build [Archive] - Page 3

Jazzman

12-04-2016, 03:07 AM

I "welded" the mounting angle brackets on the back of the dash board. I actually am pretty impressed with JB Weld. I cut up some left over 1" aluminum angle material into 1.5" long pieces, drilled one hole on one side that the screw would go through to attach the bracket to the frame. On the other side of the angle bracket I drilled two holes, just to allow the JB weld to squeeze through. After mixing up a small batch of the stuff, I put a coating on the bracket, and pressed it onto the back of the dash board. Six minutes later it had held fast, and four hours later it was fully cured. It really holds nicely!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61668&d=1480837259

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61669&d=1480837260

I am pointing toward installing the radiator and all the appropriate hoses. In order to do that, I wanted to install the tilt front system because it would be much easier to access now than it would after everything else was in the way. So, for what I hope is the last time, I laid out all the newly powder coated pieces.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61666&d=1480837257

I took a bunch of photos that I will use as I write the directions for building the flip top. But you have already read through the construction (and reconstruction!!) of the system, so I won't bore you with a litany of repeat photos. Here's just a couple of it installed on the car.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61651&d=1480837247

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61652&d=1480837247

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61650&d=1480837246

I had to clean out a few threads, clear powdercoat out of a couple of holes, but for the most part it went back together smoothly. The funny part was that even though I have built and broken down this thing more times than I can count, I still had to go back to my own build thread to see how I put it together!

Jazzman

12-04-2016, 03:31 AM

I drilled the holes in the underside of the dash hoop and installed 10x24 rivnuts into the holes

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61647&d=1480837244

Since I already had the dash off to drill the holes and put in the rivnuts, I went ahead and put another coat of spar urethane on it. Since it is wet, I can't currently fit it onto the newly installed rivnuts. That will have to be for another day.

I moved on to the radiator. I had considered foregoing the Breeze radiator shroud, but It looks so nice, I finally broke down and bought it. I am so glad I did. It puts a nice finish on the back side of the radiator, and it also provides me a place to put the powersteering cooler. I plan to put the small cooler inside the radiator shroud to both cool it and also hide it from view. I have to wait to get all my radiator and power steering lines figured out before I can finalize where that little coooler should go. Again, another day.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61645&d=1480837243

I spent a lot of time figuring out how and exactly where to install the Moroso Radiator overflow tank and the KRC power steering overflow tank. I went to the metal store and got some scraps of aluminum to cobble something together. I am trying to attach a piece of aluminum horizontally over the frame rail that holds the top of the radiator. Unfortunately that frame piece is turned on a 45 degree angle. I think I am just going to drill diagonal holes in the frame rail and bolt it through. It's not going to carry a lot of weight, but I still want it to be solid.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61670&d=1480840209

Jazzman

12-04-2016, 07:31 PM

The wiring is on a temporary hold as I wait for connectors, weather packs, and other fittings. I am also delayed waiting for the hand rubbed finish on the dash to dry. I have now done four coats (I think!) and plan to do one or two more. I have to wait a full 24 hours between coats, so it is slow process. Quality always is!

It is time to fit the radiator, hoses, and radiator overflow tank. It has become clear that I want/need to buy the Breeze lower radiator hose setup. I will order that monday or tuesday. The top hose is almost a straight shot from the radiator to the opening on the engine, but the quick disconnect that came with the coyote motor is a 45 degree joint which turns the inlet either directly across the front of the engine or straight forward. Neither is going to work well for me. I am hoping Ford or someone makes a straight fitting for the inlet on the engine. Why didn't ford just provide a slip fitting that required a hose clamp like everything else?!!!

For now, I worked on the mounting of the overflow tank. I started by drilling holes vertically through the radiator support frame rail. To try to start a hole on the corner of a 3/4" square tube presented an interesting challenge. I can't roll the frame into my drill press. I started by denting the corner of the frame rail with the square corner of a screwdriver shaft.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61705&d=1480896019

Then I use a punch to mark the very center of the dent into which I would drill the hole.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61704&d=1480896019

I then used three increasingly larger drill bits to drill the hole. I ultimately drilled a 19/64" hole. Why? Two reasons: it gives me a bit of wiggle room to get a 1/4"x20 bolt through it, and it was the sharpest drill bit i had at that size. Lets face it, it doesn't get used all that often!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61702&d=1480896017

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61700&d=1480896016

A couple of holes in my 2"x2 1/2" L channel to attach it to the frame, and the first part is done.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61699&d=1480896015

I next cut two 10" long pieces from other scraps of Aluminum L Channel, one Piece is 1" on each side, the other is 1.25" on each side. (There was a reason for the two sizes, and not just the fact that these scraps were super cheap at the metal store, which they were!! It actually did not work out as I had expected, but it worked.)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61697&d=1480896014

Jazzman

12-04-2016, 07:48 PM

I then attached these two 10" angle pieces to the Moroso overflow tank. They are designed to sandwich the mounting flange of the tank between the two pieces of angle material, and provide support if the tank were to begin to droop on the mounting flange.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61695&d=1480896013

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61696&d=1480896013

The 1.25" angle is on the top, the 1" piece is on the bottom. The reason it was designed this way was that the larger angle piece was to be installed forward the support rail. However, there is just not enough space in there to allow it, so the bracket is installed rearward of the support rail.

I decided where the bracket had to be installed, drilled some holes to attach it and put it all together. I found I had to cut the bolts off flush with the nuts so they would not conflict with the frame rail.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61693&d=1480896011

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61692&d=1480896011

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61691&d=1480896010

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61690&d=1480896009

There is just enough room for the radiator hose to slip underneath the overflow tank. Now my brilliant design has one minor flaw, not a killer, but challenging. The vertical bolts that go through the frame rail terminate just above the end of the radiator. No conflict, but very tight. To install this mounting rack, the radiator must be installed first. Once the radiator is in the way, holding the nut at the bottom of the mounting bolt for the overflow rack will be very challenging. It's not impossible, but will be difficult.

Now I am trying to figure out how to attach the power steering reservoir. I want to attach it to the same rail, but I need to set it off the rail by 5/8"-3/4". I am debating between spacers and some sort of a solid piece. I don't have any pieces the right size and shape, so it's off to the metal store again. Given my week, it won't happen till next week at the earliest.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61689&d=1480896008

2bking

12-04-2016, 11:04 PM

You could use some JB weld to attach the nuts to the bottom of the frame rail before you disassemble the mockup. Then you won't have to chase the nuts when you put it back together after the radiator is installed. Be sure to grease the bolt threads so the JB weld doesn't attach more than what you are expecting.

Jazzman

12-04-2016, 11:45 PM

Jazzman

12-11-2016, 11:56 AM

I spent a lot of time this week making my lists and checking them twice. Yes, of course I also mean "Those Lists", but in this case I mean the list of remaining parts and fluids needed to start the engine. I have power steering and radiator lines coming from Breeze, lots of fluids coming from Amazon, reset buttons coming from Speedhut, etc, etc. Edwardb postulated some time back when he ordered power steering fluid, coolant, oil, tranny fluid, IRS fluid, etc. that the fluids alone would come to "a couple of hundred bucks". He was optimistic. I just ordered the following fluids:

2 Gallons of Motorcraft Orange Coolant, Genuine Ford Fluid VC-3-B Orange Concentrated Antifreeze/Coolant (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BNVK14U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) (makes a total of 4 Gallons)

2 Quarts of KRC Power Steering Fluid, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EM5VP7K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1, I thought I bought three, but my order says two. I hope I don't need the extra quart. I'll let you know.

2 Quarts of Motorcraft 5W-20 Motor oil. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00062ZVBA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I was able to retain the brand new oil that came in the engine, so I only needed 2 more quarts. It takes a total of 9 quarts, so at $10 a quart, oil alone will set you back $90!!

3 Quarts of Delron III/Mercon ATF fluid. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GQXY4M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1. The company that did the shift modification on my Tremec specifically called for this type of fluid, so that's what I am doing. (Thanks, WarEagleScott for confirming how much fluid was actually needed!!)

Just these fluids alone were $150, and when you add in the rear differential fluid and friction modifier I already purchased, and a full 9 quarts of oil, I think you will be closer to $300 for fluids.

The wiring behind the dash is getting close to being done. I have all the ignition wires traced and connected (I hope!!) correctly. I have to collect all the various ground wires and attach them somewhere. I am now stalled waiting to be pleased with the final finish of the dashboard. (Being AR about wood finishing is a blessing and a curse!!) I have hand wiped all the previous coats of Spar Urethane on the dash, but I want the final coats to be glassy smooth. I ordered a can of the same Spar Urethane in the Aerosol form. This will be much thinner, but should lay a beautiful final coat (or coats!!). That is on order as well.

Insomnia got to me the other night, so at 1am I came down to the shop and began working on the screen cover for the radiator. I purchased a piece of hexagonal hole screen. Strong enough to protect from most flying rocks, but open enough to allow adequate air flow. I used 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum flat material for the frame.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61829&d=1481412013

I bent the screen around the frame on the top and bottom, and cut it flush on the sides. A few rivets around the sides, and it is done. Off to powder coating. It will be done in gloss black to help hide the radiator fins. It is open enough that it won't fully hide them, which is sort of the intent.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61827&d=1481412010

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61826&d=1481412010

wareaglescott

12-11-2016, 02:05 PM

Looking good. I need to make a radiator protector like this. How do you intend to mount it?

Jazzman

12-11-2016, 03:53 PM

Looking good. I need to make a radiator protector like this. How do you intend to mount it?

It will be bolted at the top with the same bolts that hold the radiator to the frame. It will be bolted at the bottom to the bottom frame mount as soon as I figure out exactly what I am going to do. Doing the flip front means I have to secure the radiator differently than the FFR prescribed method.

Jazzman

12-16-2016, 02:25 AM

It has been said many times before by experts greater than me, but Breeze provides truly great products! I ordered all the plumbing for the power steering system from Mark Last Friday. It arrived on Tuesday. Great service Mark!! Best of all, the braided stainless is great quality, very nice looking, and easy to work with. His fittings are about as simple as it gets. They look and work great.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61937&d=1481870382

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61933&d=1481870380

I still have to mount the reservoir and the cooler, so I can't complete the Power steering circuit, but it's started and it looks and fits great!!

And on the other side emotional rollercoaster . . .

A pox upon the Ford engineers that decided that one of a kind Ford only quick disconnect joint where the upper radiator hose meets the engine is somehow better than a simple hose-clamped hose. All I need is a straight connection to the engine, an almost straight hose, and a hose clamp on the other end. Simple, right? NOOOOOO!! I got the Motorcraft KM-5114 upper hose. Many have used this, but this one doesn't like me!! It is just barely long enough, but more importantly, there is a rather serious conflict:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61936&d=1481870381

I'm no genius, but I am pretty sure the upper coolant hose is not supposed to touch the Power steering pump belt. The 45 degree angle quick disconnect joint either forces the hose sideways so it rubs on the belt, or straight forward where it doesn't rub on the belt but can't possibly reach the upper radiator inlet. Doesn't Ford make a straight version of this:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61935&d=1481870381

Next I tried to figure out if the stock hose that came with the engine might be of some use afterall. No joy there at all:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61934&d=1481870380

If I turn the quick disconnect around to move it striaght forward, it does miss the power steering belt. However, the other end is at such a hinky angle that it won't connect to the radiator without really torquing the hose. I fear it would soon wear and give due to the unnatural stress.

If I could find a straight connection to the engine, I might just use the corrugated steel hose that came with the kit. I have enough hoses to cut up to get the angles I need, but I am not a fan of the corrugated steel look. I would really like to find a Ford Straight connection to the engine and then get a straight braided stainless hose for the rest of the distance. But first I have to find a Ford hose with a straight connection instead of a 45 degree one. Any suggestions? I'm calling Ford Tech tomorrow.

All these challenges with the upper radiator hose is also wreaking havoc on my Moroso reservoir location. I think it may sit too high and might hit the inside of the hood, but if I lower it there is not enough room for the upper radiator hose to go under it. I can't install the power steering reservoir until I fix the location of the radiator overflow tank. I can't fix that location until the upper radiator hose is installed or ready to be installed. Arrgh!!

Ok, what K&N Air filter should I be purchasing? The one that came with the car is much too long. I bought a second one, it was waaaay too long too. Sent it back, ordered the RG-1001RD because it was the shortest one i could find that still would accommodate a 4" inlet.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61938&d=1481873528

It's still too long. Air filter #3 going back. What part number should I be ordering?

wareaglescott

12-16-2016, 05:13 AM

Kevin this is the one you need -
K&N RU-2520 - K&N Universal Performance Air Filters
It is 4".

Interesting your conflict with the upper radiator hose. I didn't realize your PS pump mounted to a higher location that mine. What did Paul use? He has a KRC system if I remember correctly.

edwardb

12-16-2016, 08:52 AM

I checked my records and they're showing I also used the KM-5114 upper radiator hose. Ford CL3Z-8260-A. But I agree it won't work clocked the direction you have it. Mine comes out straight from the connection. It's relatively close to the KRC PS pump pulley, but all clears. I don't recall having a problem with it stretching to the radiator connection. But it's been some months since I put it all together. Just went out and tried to get a couple pictures. But hard to see too much with everything assembled. Plus it's cold out there. Another zero degree morning here so just above freezing in the garage. (I know you warm weather guys don't want to hear that...). So these are some older pictures that show the hose and angle:

Before PS installed:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/th_IMG_3707_zps2yo9gxsi.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_3707_zps2yo9gxsi.jpg.html)

After PS installed:
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Power%20Steering/th_IMG_3774_zpsodh8jb1s.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Power%20Steering/IMG_3774_zpsodh8jb1s.jpg.html)

Here's a picture I just took showing how it clears up under the Moroso tank. About 1-inch of clearance. This also shows some of the braid left over from some of the other hoses that I put over the upper radiator hose. Just for appearance (I guess.).
http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/th_IMG_0846_zps1qclhzcm.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Coyote%20Engine/IMG_0846_zps1qclhzcm.jpg.html)

For the air filter, I use the FF specified K&N RC-5149 (5.375 in. Diameter, 6.50 in. Tall, 4.0 in. Inlet) along with the FF specified Spectre parts. It fit OK, but the angle was super critical to keep the end from hitting the frame under the hood hinge. After multiple efforts, I cut about 3/4-inch off the end of the 90 degree Spectre intake. Didn't figure that would affect the airflow enough to make a difference and that provided the needed consistent clearance. Using the shorter K&N RU-2520 Scott mentioned is another option. The RG-1001RD at 5.5 in. long is even longer than the RC-5149 I used.

Straversi

12-16-2016, 10:09 AM

edwardb

12-16-2016, 10:50 AM

A pox upon the Ford engineers that decided that one of a kind Ford only quick disconnect joint where the upper radiator hose meets the engine is somehow better than a simple hose-clamped hose.

Ha, I agree! I've driven a few new Ford's and the radiator hose clamp connection was not on the top of my list of things that needed to be improved. Misguided engineering.
-Steve

It's all about production line speed, efficiency, reliability, repeatability, ergonomics, etc., and also to service although maybe a lessor extent. The same push-on/click connectors are all over the car. Fuel lines, vacuum lines, PCV lines, heater hoses, etc. Works OK for exact length and molded profiles in a production car. Obviously not so good with custom builds like ours.

Jazzman

12-17-2016, 02:38 AM

I just wasn't happy with the first version of the radiator and powersteering reservoir bracket I built. I decided to redo it and extend both aluminum angle pieces across the full width of the front frame rail piece.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61969&d=1481958869

After I added an additional angle piece vertically to hold the power steering fluid. It all looks pretty good, and seems to fit well. However, until I get the upper radiator hose installed permanently, I can't be sure that the moroso reservoir will sit just on top of the radiator hose.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61968&d=1481958869

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61967&d=1481958868

I am also a bit concerned that the bottom hose may not be quite high enough to flow smoothly into the water pump. Again, waiting to get the upper radiator hose. Ford didn't get back to me on options for a quick disconnect that is straight rather than a 45 degree angle.

The dash is finished, and now I begin installing all the gauges, switches, and lights. Here it is with everything installed, but not yet fully wired.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61960&d=1481958864

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61962&d=1481958865

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61961&d=1481958864

Tomorrow I will focus on wiring dash, turning the mess into something resembling organized chaos!

wareaglescott

12-17-2016, 08:54 AM

Dash looks awesome! Well done

WIS89

12-17-2016, 10:08 AM

Jazzman

12-18-2016, 11:35 PM

Kevin-

Love the dash! I like the mix of older and new. That wood will stand out nicely.

I also like your decision to make the angle pieces the full length of the radiator opening.

You are making great progress.

Regards,

Steve

Thank's Steve. I appreciate the support. Progress is slow and hard fought, but it is moving in the right direction.

Jazzman

12-19-2016, 12:18 AM

Alright loyal readers, time to grab a beverage (adult or otherwise) and sit back. This is going to be a lengthy report because a lot of little things have been accomplished. Wiring is still kicking my butt.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62018&d=1482122246

I wanted to start the weekend with a success. I decided upon something simple: fill the tranny with fluid. It is much easier to fill from the top, so I opened up the center opening where the gear shift lever goes, and poured it right in. 2.65 quarts. Check that one off the list.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62023&d=1482122440

The standard hole in the tranny tunnel cover was not even used, so I needed to fill it before I covered it with something. I want it to be smooth just in case I choose to lay matching wood over it. (At the moment I am not planning to do that. I think it will just be too much wood.) I had previously cut an aluminum filler piece, but I had to lock it in place. Others have used rivets, but if I use a wood cover, the rivets would show.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62021&d=1482122438

I began by taping the filler piece in the hole from the top side.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62019&d=1482122437

I cut an oversized piece to "weld" on to the back to hold it in place.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62022&d=1482122439

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62020&d=1482122438

A bit of metal cement, some pieces of plywood to hold it flat, some C clamps, a couple of pieces of wax paper to keep the squeeze out from sticking to the plywood panels, and the piece is glued to the back of the tranny tunnel. I did just a bit of clean up on the front side, polished it all flat, and the tunnel cover is ready for ThermoTec on the back side and whatever cover I decide to put on the front.

One unrelated lesson. Remember when I attached the angle pieces of aluminum to the back side of the dash. Each one was placed so that they would be easily accessible from the underside. I was so proud of myself, I even remembered to cut a semi circle in one side of the angle piece to allow space for the nut on the back side of the horn button. Now what is wrong with this picture?

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62024&d=1482122440

You got it! the horn button prevents easy access to the business end of the bolt that is supposed to go through that angle attachment point. Don't ask what I am going to do about that. I haven't figured it out yet!

Jazzman

12-19-2016, 12:45 AM

I finally found and ordered the 3/4" quick disconnects that are needed to connect the two hoses that might be used to hook to a heater. However, since I am not installing a heater, only heated seats, I need to connect up these two points. I got these from RockAuto.com. This is first time I have ordered from them. quick service, lousy website, but they do seem to have one of everything.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62017&d=1482122245

I had a length of braided stainless hose this size. It is complete overkill for this purpose, but it is paid for, and I would have to go buy some other hose otherwise, so I used it. Doesn't this look nice and shiny!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62016&d=1482122244

Of course it is a complete waste of bling, because the cover completely hides it!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62015&d=1482122243

In order to mount the bracket which will hold the radiator and power steering reservoirs, I had to figure out a way to attach them after the radiator is e/in place. the problem is that the bracket itself prevents access to the underside of the frame rail that it is mounted to. 2BKing suggested that I add a nut to back side, and affix it with JB Weld. There are a few advantages for have a father and grandfather who were packrats: I have hundreds of miscellaneous nuts and bolts. I went looking for a 1/4"x20 nut to mount to the underside of the frame rail. I came across these:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62012&d=1482122242

I am sure I have had them for at least 20 years. I am glad to get two of them out of my can of 1/4" nuts!! I used the die grinder to grind off the powdercoating where I would be attaching the nuts. In order to keep the JB Weld from sticking to the threads of the bolts holding the nuts in place, I coated the threads with grease. I bolted the nuts in place being careful not to get any grease anywhere other than the threads. I made up a small batch of JB Weld, and coated the rectangular nuts liberally.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62013&d=1482122242

After an hour, i removed the bolts to be sure the JB Weld had not welded them in place. They came right out. Thanks for the suggestion, King!!

Jazzman

12-19-2016, 01:10 AM

The center support/stabilizer for the dashboard will serve several purposes. It will hold an array of switches and plugs that I don't want to be visible, it will act as the main grounding point for all the various ground wires that are needed behind the dash, and most importantly it will hold the dash stable at the bottom. I had previously cut a section from an unused tranny tunnel cover to the right length and added rivnuts to attach it to the dash. I have cut a bunch of holes of various sizes: two 20mm (25/32") holes for seat heater switches, one 29mm (1 1/8") hole for a pair of USB plugs to charge Phones, etc., two 1/4" holes for the Speedhut gauge programming buttons (Trip reset etc for the Speedo, clock set button.) I also have a couple of other pushbutton Watson's Streetworks switches on there in 5/8" holes. I also cut a hole for the Watson's speedworks Headlight and turn signal warning buzzer. That one is in a 5/8" hole as well. (Yes, my collection of hole saws continues to grow!!)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62010&d=1482122240

With all the holes made (I hope!!) I decided to cover the outside of the support panel with the unused material from the stock FFR dash. I cut a piece to fit and attached it with contact cement. After letting in dry for a while, i cut out the holes and began installing the switches. Unfortunately, I found that the black naugahyde material is really not attached to the padding very well. After fiddling around with it, I knew I would not be happy with the end result, so I tore first attempt off. Now I have to get the glue off. What a job. Sorry about the lousy photo!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62014&d=1482122243

Since the cement had not had time to fully harden, I applied a liberal coating of brake cleaner which softend up the glue. i was able to slowly rub it back off. It took quite a bit of work, but i finally got it all off. I cut another piece of the FFR black dash panel, but this time I stripped off all the padding, leaving only the black Naugahyde. More contact cement (I actually used up the last of it!) and then I applied it to the panel.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62011&d=1482122241

I didn't yet cut the black cover material to reveal the seat heater holes because they have not arrived yet.

Jazzman

12-19-2016, 01:30 AM

I have put off wiring as long as I can. Now that the center support is covered it is time to install it and begin wiring in the various parts. There are four screws that will attach this piece to the 2" frame rail. These screws will also act as grounding points for the wire ring terminals. To be sure I will get maximum grounding effectiveness, I used the die grinder to grind the powder coat off the 2" frame rail where the support panel will sit.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62009&d=1482122240[/IMG
With the wires already there, there was some of the back area that I could not access, but it does dramatically increase the surface area that will allow solid grounding. I attached the dash support panel with some self tapping screws.

[IMG]http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62008&d=1482122239

One of the ways I have tried to keep my wiring as neat as possible is to group my grounding wires. I pulled together the ground wires from two relays, two switches, the RFID box, the ignition module, and the turn signal buzzer and attached all of them to one ring terminal.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62007&d=1482122239

I attached this ring terminal to one of the screws that attaches the dash support panel to the 2" square frame rail.

I attached the black power wire from the ignition module relay to the Brown Accessories power feed wire. Now I have to figure out where to attach the Orange power feed wire that powers the fuel pump. I have to make a few calls on that.

There is a small programming button for the RFID system that needs to be accessible but not too accessible! I put it under the Ignition Module box. It is accessible, but you have to know where it is.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62006&d=1482122238

I got the lower radiator hose setup from Breeze Automotive mocked up. It really is a nice setup.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62027&d=1482129534

The only modification I made was to cut an inch off the hose that looks like a question mark and goes into the water pump. this pulls the hose away from the steering shaft.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62026&d=1482129533

I made up the last Power steering hose in the 6AN size. This one connects the outlet of the rack to the reservoir. The only remaining fitting I need to complete the circuit is a 10AN 90 degree fitting. I ordered a straight one from Mark at Breeze, but I decided it would fit better if I used a 90. Mark is great about returns and exchanges. He had a 90 in stock and sent it out right away.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62025&d=1482129533

I finished off the evening disassembling pieces that have to be powder coated. I removed the Breeze Fan shroud, and disconnected the component pieces of the reservoir bracket. I had hoped I was done with powder coating, but there are still a few pieces to do. The radiator screen I made will be coated black, the fan shroud will be hammered silver like the other panels. (I debated just doing it in black as well since it will be almost invisible.) I pulled out the mounting brackets for the Tangent lighting system which will be installed below the main opening at the nose of the car. The reservoir bracket will be black. I had hoped to have my lower radiator support piece done, but it had to be revised just a bit. I can add that later. It will not delay the first start.

wareaglescott

12-19-2016, 03:45 AM

Looking good. Lots of progress in this update!
In reference to the hose that connects where the heater hoses connect take a look at Paul's thread. There is a built in flow reducer/limiter type device in the stock hoses. No idea why or if it is really needed. You may want to consider that. I used one but like I said not sure if it is needed.

Jazzman

12-21-2016, 02:49 AM

I fabricated a lower radiator support. Nothing very complex, just 3/4" square channel with 3/4" x 2" vertical ends welded on.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62124&d=1482305956

A few minutes with the die grinder it is ready for powder coating.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62120&d=1482305953

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62121&d=1482305953

I hauled the exhaust pipes down from the upstairs bedroom formerly occupied by my younger son. He was kind enough to get married in April, leaving his room empty to be filled with car parts!! Installing everything on the car is a joy, but there is something really iconic about installing the side pipes. They are just gorgeous!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62119&d=1482305952

The DS pipe seems to sit at about the level I expected, and the rear mounting point is about where it is illustrated to be in the instructions. The PS pipe, however, sits much higher. It sits so much higher that the side support bracket is touching the frame. I will have to look into what the problem might be. I don't think it is enough of an issue to delay first start.

Wiring update:
The good news is that pretty much all the wires are assigned and connected on the back of the dashboard. The bad news is that after connecting up all the wire harnesses and checking all the grounds, I get precisely NO response from anything. I am going to have to start by calling Watson's streetworks tomorrow to go over the connections with them and make sure I didn't miss anything. I think I have to get power started through the ignition module before I can expect anything else to come alive. One step at at time. I'll bet the customer service people at Watson's, Ford Racing Techline, and FFR are going to get tired of talking to me!!

Jazzman

12-21-2016, 10:22 PM

Warning: The following information may cause chuckles, snickering, and derisive comments from the more experienced. This is an official "rookie" mistake warning. Those readers with weaker constitutions may prefer to look away.

The wiring is as far as I can go right now, but I have not be able to get even a hint of life out of the system. Complete and total silence. No lights, not clicks. Nothing. I decided that since I had already confirmed many times that I have power to the bus bars, the place to start looking was at the ignition system. I checked my wiring for the Watson Streetworks Ignition Module and the RFID security system from the diagram which they provided. Still deafening silence. I finally gave up and called Mike at Watson's Streetworks. He was extremely helpful, quite willing to go wire by wire to see where the problem might be. I explained my application, and the current situation. He agreed that we should review my wiring wire by wire. He first suggested that I confirm where the large Red wire from the Ignition module went. I traced the wire back, going around the in-line fuse holder, and confirmed that wire is correctly connected to the Switched bus bar. Wait a minute . . . what did I just say . . . "around the in-line fuse holder". Apparently he could hear my eyes click together as I said it. What is wrong with this picture?

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62139&d=1482374555

Yeah, that in-line fuse holder ought to have . . . a fuse, perhaps?!!!! Mike confirmed that it might just work a bit better if there was a working fuse allowing the power to actually get to the ignition module! Feeling excessively stupid, I found a fuse, stuffed it in there, and, what do you know, I get a response.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62135&d=1482374553

When i push the ignition button, the green light comes on, all the gauge needles bounce a little, and the GPS speedo begins acquiring my GPS location. It's alive! Ok, it's only a little alive, but it's a start.

I am waiting to get back the various powder coated pieces for installing the radiator and the powersteering reservoir. I installed the engine end of the Lower radiator hose. It fits great. But I have to make a decision about what to do about an upper radiator hose. I took apart the stock hose that came with coyote engine to reveal the quick disconnect piece. I then tried to install this piece to see what my options really are. Ford does not make a straight quick disconnect unit like this. I have no choice but to use this in one way or another. Because this piece has small location detentes, it will only correctly fit in two directions, 180 degrees different from each other. Here are the two options.

Option #1:turned forward/down:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62137&d=1482374554

The outlet is only about 1/4" from one wheel of the powersteering system. If you put a hose and a regular hose clamp over this barbed fitting, it actually will touch the power steering belt.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62136&d=1482374553

Option #2: turned left and up

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62138&d=1482374555

This one turns slightly backward, directly into the metal of the air intake and some of the wiring related to this air intake. There is no way a hose will go through this stuff.

I guess when all other options are unworkable, it is time to try something else. Since ford does not make a compatible quick disconnect fitting, I am going to have to improvise. My current plan it to eliminate the quick disconnect piece entirely. I plan to push a hose up over the place where the quick disconnect would go, and hose clamp that into place. It is my hope that the edge of the slot that formed the channel that the retaining wire would go into will act like a barb to hold the upper radiator hose in place.

If you have better ideas, I am wide open to them. At this point I am out of new ideas for this upper radiator hose.

edwardb

12-22-2016, 12:24 AM

It sure is a mystery to me why the same engine setup and upper radiator hose that several of us have successfully used is the wrong clock angle for your build. :(

Jazzman

12-22-2016, 12:58 AM

It sure is a mystery to me why the same engine setup and upper radiator hose that several of us have successfully used is the wrong clock angle for your build. :(

I agree. I kept thinking it was my incompetance. While I have proven I can be dense at times, this one seems to be a goofy design issue. You just gave me a thought, however. What if I were to carefully remove the small tabs that force a particular angle and allow the quick disconnect to simply revolve around the engine side of the fitting? Would the tightened radiator hose hold it in a specific place? Hmmm. . .

edwardb

12-22-2016, 07:39 AM

I agree. I kept thinking it was my incompetance. While I have proven I can be dense at times, this one seems to be a goofy design issue. You just gave me a thought, however. What if I were to carefully remove the small tabs that force a particular angle and allow the quick disconnect to simply revolve around the engine side of the fitting? Would the tightened radiator hose hold it in a specific place? Hmmm. . .

Might be worth a shot. I haven't looked that closely at the parts to know if feasible or not. My build isn't here right now (at the painter) plus it's full of antifreeze so nothing is coming apart anyway. I would suggest only modifying the hose assembly though vs. the fitting on the engine. Hose is pretty easily replaced. I would sure try to figure out something vs. clamping a hose over the engine fitting.

Jazzman

12-22-2016, 06:18 PM

edwardb

12-22-2016, 08:12 PM

Ford doesn't make a straight connection for the upper radiator hose. I have two of the 45 degree versions, so I am considering using one as a test to create a straight connection. I am considering carefully cutting this piece along the silver lines, then gluing the two ends back together with Epoxy or some other high strength waterproof, heatproof, glue. There is a large flange at the top of the barbed side of the piece. This would give extra purchase at the glue joint.

So what do you think? Could it work? What glue would you recommend? I am trying to figure out what the material is so I can find the most appropriate glue. I have almost nothing to lose at this point!!

No, I personally don't think that would work. What you have to lose is a glue joint failing and spraying hot antifreeze everywhere or even worse overheating your rather expensive engine.

I went back through your build thread and looked at the pictures of your engine and also your upper radiator hose. Then compared those to the same views of my engine and hose and confirmed everything appears exactly the same. Mine wasn't the first set up this way either. I copied the layout and F150 hose idea from other build threads.

If I go back to your post #510, you said the 45 degree angle quick disconnect joint either forces the hose sideways so it rubs on the belt (obviously not acceptable) or straight forward where it doesn't rub on the belt. This straight forward position is how mine and others are installed. You said the problem was then the hose didn't reach the upper radiator inlet. Not sure why. Mine did and others apparently did as well. But maybe you have a different routing due to other components. I can't imagine your radiator placement is any different.

Whatever the reason, I would suggest that's the end where something could be done. It would be possible to lengthen the hose by clamping in a piece of SS tubing and then another piece of hose to reach the radiator. Or you could go another but similar direction by cutting off your existing upper hose, adding a piece of SS tubing, then another piece of hose to the upper radiator connection. Something similar to the lower radiator hose you pictured.

Maybe there are other ideas, but my point is I would focus on that end vs. the engine end. As you've found, not any good options there.

wareaglescott

12-22-2016, 09:11 PM

2bking

12-22-2016, 10:22 PM

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=61645&d=1480837243

I think this picture shows the radiator upside down but hard to tell. Mine had a purge fitting on the upper left-hand side when it was installed correctly as seen in this photo.
62170

Jazzman

12-23-2016, 12:52 AM

I think this picture shows the radiator upside down but hard to tell. Mine had a purge fitting on the upper left-hand side when it was installed correctly as seen in this photo.
62170

Thanks, King, for the double check. It actually is in there correctly oriented. The purge valve is actually there, it is just hidden by the frame on the left side of the photo. It is sort of a goofy view, though. :rolleyes:

Jazzman

12-23-2016, 01:16 AM

I had a problem where my upper hose didn't reach the radiator inlet and then I realized I had the entire radiator installed upside down! Those angled attachments were pointing the wrong direction for me. Once I corrected that it fit no problem. Surely that is not your case but thought I would mention it just so you could be sure.
Is there any chance the power steering pump could be mounted in a different hole than Paul causing a positional difference that gives you a problem when it worked for him? I know my pump sits much lower so I wasn't sure how many mounting options there were.
Was trying to think of another way to attack this problem. Would a spacer on the motor on the back side of the component where the inlet attaches be at all feasible to give you some more room?

All good thoughts. I wondered about the power steering pump mounts. There really are no other holes that would line up. I considered if I might have installed KRC triangular mounting frame backwards. Nope. Double checked, and it is correctly oriented.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62175&d=1482473040

I also considered if I could install it upside down to lower the pump location. I can't. I then realized that even if I could get the pump lower (which might not actually be bad) it still wouldn't solve the central problem: The radiator hose is extremely close to the drive/center pulley, not the pump or pump pulley. I really need to create more space around that main drive pulley. Short of completely redesigning the pulley and mounting system (WHICH I AM NOT GOING TO DO!! ;) ) that pulley is a fixed point that I have to live with and work around. I am going to call KRC tomorrow to see if they have ever run across this problem.

2bking

12-23-2016, 01:44 AM

Jazzman

12-23-2016, 01:59 AM

No, I personally don't think that would work. What you have to lose is a glue joint failing and spraying hot antifreeze everywhere or even worse overheating your rather expensive engine.

I went back through your build thread and looked at the pictures of your engine and also your upper radiator hose. Then compared those to the same views of my engine and hose and confirmed everything appears exactly the same. Mine wasn't the first set up this way either. I copied the layout and F150 hose idea from other build threads.

If I go back to your post #510, you said the 45 degree angle quick disconnect joint either forces the hose sideways so it rubs on the belt (obviously not acceptable) or straight forward where it doesn't rub on the belt. This straight forward position is how mine and others are installed. You said the problem was then the hose didn't reach the upper radiator inlet. Not sure why. Mine did and others apparently did as well. But maybe you have a different routing due to other components. I can't imagine your radiator placement is any different.

Whatever the reason, I would suggest that's the end where something could be done. It would be possible to lengthen the hose by clamping in a piece of SS tubing and then another piece of hose to reach the radiator. Or you could go another but similar direction by cutting off your existing upper hose, adding a piece of SS tubing, then another piece of hose to the upper radiator connection. Something similar to the lower radiator hose you pictured.

Maybe there are other ideas, but my point is I would focus on that end vs. the engine end. As you've found, not any good options there.

Post #510 is technically incorrect. When I wrote that, I did not realize there was an alignment rail that is supposed to hold the fitting in place at specific angles. The photos in Post #525 are the correct views. The inlet either points toward the metal rim of the air intake, or downward and forward coming dangerously close to the power steering drive pulley and the belt.

I certainly would like to avoid doing anything on the engine side of this connection. Hoses are cheap. I looked at the engine side of the connection. There is only one alignment rail:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62178&d=1482475509

It is clocked to about 5pm off of vertical. That rail slides into either this slot . . .

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62182&d=1482475512

or this slot:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62181&d=1482475511

If that alignment rail is filed off, the fitting should still be fully sealed, but it will be able to turn to any point on the clock. If this were done, it would be simple to turn the connection straight forward. This would provide ample clearance from all obstacles. (I don't love that it goes straight forward, but hey, if it works, I will be happy!!) Here is what it would look like:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62179&d=1482475509

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62180&d=1482475510

I am thinking if I do this, then use a combination of the the unmodified 45 degree fitting, rubber radiator hoses I have, and the corrugated steel radiator hose that FFR provided, I might be able to get this thing to work. It is my hope that once both ends are connected, the connection to the engine should not rotate. IF it doesn't work, the piece that I will file seems pretty easy to remove and replace with a new one, and because it is basically a short rubber hose and a three way plastic fitting, I don't expect it to be too expensive. Ok guys, what do you think? Do I CAREFULLY file off the alignment rail?

Jazzman

12-23-2016, 02:12 AM

IF it clears at all its good enough. Even a tiny rub will clear itself. There should be tiny, if any, movement between the pulley and hose but you may have a problem removing/replacing the belt down the road without draining some antifreeze. Like Paul said, cutting and gluing the hose mount isn't a good option. It would be a structural joint with lots of heat cycles, hose stress, cooling system pressure, and vibrations to handle. If you absolutely can't make it work, perhaps I could turn a straight one from aluminum with the features necessary to connect properly with the engine.

Yes, I see your and EdwardB's wisdom that any change to the fitting is inadvisable. Turning a new piece is quite an offer, King! I hope that I won't have to take you up on it, but I will certainly keep it in mind. I am rather surprised that Ford doesn't already offer it, but apparently not.

Jazzman

12-23-2016, 02:51 AM

Made a bit of progress on the wiring. I confirmed with Watson Streetworks that I will need the following relays to run the lighting:
Relay for the running lights. This relay will also turn on the dash lights and the button LED's
Relay for the Tangent driving lights
Relay for the headlights
relay for the turn signal/headlights warning buzzer
relay for the Russ Thompson turn signal setup.

Watson's is sending me all the relays I will need, and they have assured me they can talk me thought the setup. Actually, I have been researching how a relay works, and it's not as complicated as I expected. More on that later.

I have confirmed that the Batt Fed section of the Ron Francis fuse block is fed as long as the master disconnect is on.

I have confirmed that the ACC Fed section of the RF fuse block is hot when the ignition button is pressed on. It is off when the ignition system is off. Good.

THe IGN Fed section is not currently hot, because it needs to be fed from the RFID box, and this will require yet another relay. At least I know where it will be fed.

edwardb

12-23-2016, 07:59 AM

Post #510 is technically incorrect. When I wrote that, I did not realize there was an alignment rail that is supposed to hold the fitting in place at specific angles. The photos in Post #525 are the correct views. The inlet either points toward the metal rim of the air intake, or downward and forward coming dangerously close to the power steering drive pulley and the belt.

Option #1 from your post #525 is how mine is installed as shown in the previously posted pic:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Power%20Steering/th_IMG_3774_zpsodh8jb1s.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%2020th%20Anniversary%20Mark%204%20R oadster/Power%20Steering/IMG_3774_zpsodh8jb1s.jpg.html)

With the stock molded hose end and clamp (vs. hose and a regular hose clamp you mention) it is close to the KRC pulley. Probably 1/8-inch or so, I don't remember exactly. But as long as it clears all is OK. Neither move. Any movement of the engine the two would travel together. Maybe the fact that you have the newer FFR radiator vs. the Afco Racing radiator that I have is different enough somehow to affect the length required for the hose. I'm still of the opinion extending the hose anywhere along it's length with an inner piece of SS tube is the simplest fix. Using the FFR corrugated is an option. I've used it on both previous builds and I haven't had any trouble with it. But I've found it requires more than just regular worm drive hose clamps. T-clamps are much better. Plus you would have multiple adapters and clamps. What I'm suggesting would take two clamps. Good luck whatever you decide.

WIS89

12-23-2016, 10:18 AM

Kevin-

Have you considered filing a new groove into the plastic fitting rather than removing the alignment rail itself? I think it would be easier to do, and certainly less permanent should this plan not work.

Frustrating problem to be sure. I, like you, am surprised that Ford doesn't have multiple options for situation like this.

Not sure I helped...

Regards,

Steve

Jazzman

12-24-2016, 11:13 PM

Big progress yesterday and today. Mark Reynolds from Breeze Automotive came through for me again!! He promised to get me the last fitting I needed for the power steering by yesterday, and he did it! Thank you so much, Mark, for the great products and even greater service.

The powder coater that has not been cheap but always done impecable work finally slipped. I had about a dozen miscelaneous pieces in for coating. About half of them were to be black, the other half hammered silver. He switched the pieces! The black ones were silver, and the silver ones were black! Oh brother. I could have been worse really. He agreed to re-coat the silver ones black, and I kept the black ones and decided to live with it. He even agreed to get them done by the end of the day. I picked them up at 4:30 yesterday. A man of his word!

I started with the lower radiator support. It came out very nice.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62247&d=1482637612

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62243&d=1482637609

I installed the second O2 Sensor. It was just long enough to reach around the PS footbox. I really wish it was longer. I would prefer a bit of lee way. Oh well.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62246&d=1482637611

The solution to the problem upper radiator hose was rather simple and straightforward. The factory five corrugated radiator hose was not exactly what I had in mind, but in the end it worked. I carefully bent a piece of the corrogated stainless steel hose until it fit between the engine and the radiator.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62242&d=1482637609

I cut off 2.5" straight pieces off the the various pieces of radiator hose to create joining pieces.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62236&d=1482637604

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62235&d=1482637604

Here is the end result:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62237&d=1482637605

It actually works very well. The side closest to the radiator curves down and to the PS away from the overflow tank. By doing this, it creates just enough space for the radiator fits just above it.

Jazzman

12-24-2016, 11:39 PM

Here is how the upper radiator hose fit when completed:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62234&d=1482637603

The radiator and Power steering reservoir bracket was one of the pieces that was coated silver when it should have been black. After coating it a second time with black, it ended up "hammered gloss black".

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62233&d=1482637603

It's not exactly right, but I doubt anyone will ever notice or care.

I installed the rock screen that I had made to go over the radiator. I wonder if I will be sorry that I got the 1/4" screen rather than the 1/8" screen. TIme will tell.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62231&d=1482637601

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62232&d=1482637602

I reinstalled everything on the reservoir bracket, then realized that it really works better with the bracket for the power steering reservoir sitting lower. I took it apart and turned that section of the bracket upside down. I put it back together again, and it fit perfectly. Then I noticed that the main rail of the bracket really needed one more bolt holding it together. I decided I would hate myself if I did not pull it out and add that last bolt. Off it came, everything torn apart. I drilled the new hole, added a bolt and a nylock nut, and then cut the tail of the bolt off flush. Everything back on to the rack. I installed the lower water connection hose at the bottom of the radiator reservoir because it would be much more difficult to do after it was in place. I then attached all the power steering hoses and smaller radiator overflow hoses. It gets really busy in that space, but it all fit, just barely

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62227&d=1482637598

Before finally mounting the reservoir bracket, I had to adjust and route the front wiring harness underneath the reservoir bracket. This took some doing, but it is almost fully hiddden.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62229&d=1482637600

I routed the front sections of the wires through the sidewall just above the shock absorber mount holes.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62230&d=1482637600

I did the same on the other side.

I connected up the remaining hoses, the air intake, and the assorted vacuum hoses that are attached to it. I then poured in all the fluids. The power steering took about 1.5 quarts. The radiator took 2.5 gallons now, but drank almost a full four gallons after it got moved around the engine. I found that I was about 2 quarts low on oil so I topped that off. I double checked ever fitting, every connection, looked for leaks etc. All seems to be in order.

Jazzman

12-25-2016, 12:52 AM

All seems to be in order. Time to see if there is life in this beast. I started by moving the steering left and right to move around the power steering fluid as best I can. Check. I disconnected the wires from the fuel pump because I want to see if the engine will crank before i put fuel in it. The first time I turned it over to test, It did not crank, and there was a very odd noise from the PDB in the engine bay. I realized I had never fully tightened the power wire from the battery feed to the PDB. I tightened that up, and the noise ceased. Not enough power to crank. Ok. I then tried to crank it, and everything went dead all at once! I know I have full power to the PDB so what is the problem? I remember my last rookie mistake, the lack of fuse in the Watson ignition module. Nothing would happen then either. I checked the fuse, and what do you know, it was blown. I had used a 15 amp fuse just to test circuits, and had forgotten to replace it with the correct 30 amp fuse. 30 amp fuse installed, and power is back where it should be. Power is delivered when I awaken the system, and when I hold the button to send the start signal, the engine cranks over!!!

After cranking the engine I checked all the fluids again to see if anything needed to be topped off. Nothing at this point. I then put fuel in the gas tank and reconnected the power to the fuel pump. I hit the start signal again, but stopped it before the engine would catch so I can get the fuel pressure set correctly. Good thing I stopped. Two problems. The first was minor: fuel pressure was at 20 psi where it should have been at 55psi. Second problem is much more serious: fuel is squirting out of one of the fittings that goes out of the fuel pressure regulator. I tried to tighten it in place, but the problem only got worse. I disconnected the power from the battery and began disassembling the fuel lines. (Note: This is a lot easier to do when there isn't an engine in the way!) I completely unscrewed the fitting and discovered the problem. I had attached the hoses to the side wall of the PS footbox before they were attached to the pressure regulator. When I screwed one of them tighter onto the pressure regulator, it pulled the fitting apart enought to leak but not enough to show. After a bit of trimming and adjustment, and will a few words of encouragement, I got the fitting back together correctly. I will have to reconnect the fuel lines to the sidewall of the footbox later.

I cleaned up all the spilled gas. It's not too much, but it makes the shop stink! I cranked the engine again, and adjusted the fuel regulator. I cranked it a third time, to confirm the setting, and all good. Have I forgotten anything? I checked for leaks again. None. I checked fluids again. Good. I think it is time to see if she will start. I press the starter button once, power comes up. I press and hold the starter button a second time and . . .

The battery has drained enough that it will not turn over the engine! Fail!

Truly not a very big deal. I hooked up the trickle charger and let it do its work. I went and had dinner. I had been working so hard to get to the first start I skipped lunch. It worked out ok.

After a reasonable waiting period, a nice bowl of homemade chicken noodle soup and a cheese toastie, I went out and checked the battery power. Much more appropriate. Ok here we go again. First press, power appears, second press and . . .

https://youtu.be/Nx8gYLNe674

IT's ALIVE!! I am so excited!! There is a bit of white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipes, but it quickly dissipates. I must have dropped a drop of oil on the DS header because it smokes just a bit, but that, too, dissipates. The idle has dropped, as has the noise level, and the engine is running great!

I let it run for about 45 seconds, then I go to turn it off. I press the starter button again to kill it and . . . nothing. It's still running! I press it again, still running. I turn off the master disconnect. That doesn't kill it. I have not yet wired in the fuel pump kill switch, so that is out. Finally, I reach behind the dash and pull the 30 amp fuse that feeds the ignition module. That kills it. Whew!

I am not sure why it won't stop when instructed to do so. I checked all the fluids, topping off the radiator tank. All total the radiator took just under four gallons of coolant. None of it is on the floor either! I restarted the engine and this time when I pressed the button to stop the engine, it stopped. I started it a third time a while later, and this time it would not stop when instructed. Clearly I have some sort of short to trace down.

I was surprised to discover that the orange wire that feeds power to the RF fuse panel is not necessary to start or run the engine. Since the power for the fuel pump is provided directly from the Coyote system, there is no need for power to the RF fuse panel for the fuel pump. I am going to have to double check if any of the systems fed by the large orange wire are actually used by this set up. It certainly is simple just letting the Coyote system handle all the instructions.

wareaglescott

12-25-2016, 06:50 AM

Awesome! Congrats on a huge milestone. I love the look of excitement when it cranked! Sounds like one of your boys was filming. Good timing to have the family home for Xmas I assume so they could be part of it. On a future start I'd love to see a video from the interior with the start button and the gauges coming to life on that great looking dash. Looking forward to the go cart video. Kimmy says congrats as well. She was thrilled that is the first thing I showed her on Xmas morning at 0530! haha

I had a little smoke on my first start as well. Reminder that if you see a P0116 code after a couple runs don't be alarmed. You nay need the pcm update that Paul and I did. In fact with my new pcm I am getting it again and will be doing the update again myself.

Jeff Kleiner

12-25-2016, 07:24 AM

Big, big congratulations on the milestone! I'm truly stoked for ya' :)

Well done solution to the hose problem. You'll hear stories of the corrugated hose blowing off if you don't use multiple &/or special clamps. Here's my simple 50 cent method:

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/100_2043-1.jpg

Add 3 or 4 1/4" long stainless steel oval head sheet metal screws around the perimeter to create sort of a bead at the end of the corrugated hose. Once the coupler or hose is slipped over and the clamp (plain ol' garden variety worm screw type) is tightened it's not gonna' come off. I've done this on many without a single issue.

I'll continue to follow along as you move forward and once again CONGRATS!

Jeff

edwardb

12-25-2016, 07:24 AM

Congratulations! Huge milestone. That Coyote is pretty amazing. Get it wired and it just runs. Way to go!

2bking

12-25-2016, 09:02 AM

Nothing sweeter than hearing the engine come to life when the start button is pushed. Congratulations! On the next start make sure the cooling fan comes on about 180. Mine hits about 190 on the dash gauge before the fan energizes.

Vette1972

12-25-2016, 09:08 AM

Cool! Sounds great.

GoDadGo

12-25-2016, 09:31 AM

Congratulations Jazzman!

What A Great Milestone!

Merry Christmas!

Straversi

12-25-2016, 11:06 AM

Way to go Jazzman! How cool is that sound?
-Steve

cgundermann

12-25-2016, 11:25 AM

Jazzman

12-27-2016, 12:44 AM

An interesting couple of days. On Christmas Day I fired it up for my family. It immediately set off three cars alarms! They were all very impressed. I let it run for a while, and then it shut off on it's own. I started it right back up. Hmmm. I let it run long enough to confirm that the radiator fan comes on. It sounds lousy, but it sounds like it should. My F150 makes the same sound, and I hate it! Oh well, it works. YEAH!!

I worked last night on connecting up the clock, the GPS keep alive circuit, the Volt meter, and reset the Tachometer so that it correctly reflected the right engine speed. (I think!). I know for sure it didn't idle at 150rpm, so I reset the Tach to register one revolution per pulse. This makes the gauge register about 600 rpm at idle after warmup.

This morning I was going to work on the various relays that will drive the various lights and confirm that the engine will hook up with the transmission and drive the rear wheels. I went to fire up the engine, power shows up at the accessories position, pushed to start and . . . nothing. Silence. No fuel pump sound, no click from the engine at all. I checked all the fuses, all look good. I checked all the wires related to the ignition system, all look good. I checked grounds, again, all good. I checked the signal from RFID system to the starter when the button was pushed, and it was not sending a signal. I suspect an issue with the RFID system.

I moved on to work on the relays, and didn't get very far because I had to go eat the worst Korean BBQ I have ever had!! When I came back home, I was just getting started when I had to turn on the power. This time I heard the fuel pump spool up. Just out of curiousity, I pressed the starter button. It fired right up! While I had it running, I decided to test the transmission connection. Yep, it all works. Engine hooks right up to the Tranny, goes into gear, shaft spins smoothly, rear wheels turn! Another success!! Just to be see what happened, I turned the car off (this time the starter button worked to shut it off) and turned it back on. It started right up. After it had been on for about a minute, it had a bit of hesitation in the idle, did it one more time, then settled in to a nice smooth idle again. No idea what that might be.

I have decided I am going to follow EdwardB's lead and replace the clutch MC with a larger one in order to reduce effort. The clutch isn't as heavy as the one I had in my old mustang, but it sure isn't as light as I would like. (Now I have to go figure out which MC he ordered!! You would think by now I would have memorized EdwardB's thread!!)

Now I am making up a punch list of things that have to be done before go-cart:
1. Get steering wheel boss back from Russ Thompson. (he only got it today.)
2. re-bleed brakes
3. when the car is off the jack stands, re-torque the axel nuts.
4. visually inspect brake lines to make sure there is no interference from moving wheel assemblies.
5. Do a rudimentary alignment

Anything else that i shouldn't forget?

edwardb

12-27-2016, 06:52 AM

I know for sure it didn't idle at 150rpm, so I reset the Tach to register one revolution per pulse. This makes the gauge register about 600 rpm at idle after warmup.

I have decided I am going to follow EdwardB's lead and replace the clutch MC with a larger one in order to reduce effort. The clutch isn't as heavy as the one I had in my old mustang, but it sure isn't as light as I would like.

I'm assuming you have the Speedhut tach wire to one of the coil-over-plug harnesses? Like I showed in my build thread and others have done? Not sure how/why you would be getting a 600 rpm indication with that setting. The proper tach calibration is 1 pulse per 2 revolutions or 1/2 pulse per 1 revolution. Unless you have your Coyote running in 2-stroke mode. ;) Mine starts at a little over 1,000 rpm, and then pretty quickly settles down into the 600-700 range. Also kind of smooths out a little. I'm guessing the PCM is adjusting the variable cams at that point, but don't know that for sure. Could be what you're noticing as hesitation.

For the clutch MC, to reduce effort you need to go to a smaller diameter. That will also reduce the throw some (no free lunch...) so only consider the change if you can afford to lose some of the throw at the clutch arm. I'm assuming you have the 1-1/8 inch Wilwood master cylinder from Forte? I replaced mine with 260-10375 Wilwood 1 inch master cylinder kit from Summit Racing. It's like the one I received from Forte, just one size smaller. Comes with a couple extra parts (reservoir, etc.). I understand the MC only is available if ordered directly from Wilwood, but I didn't pursue it. No particularly expensive as the kit ($84) plus Summit had it on my doorstep the next day. Depends on what clutch you have, but likely it won't ever be as light as your old Mustang. Newer Mustangs have a spring assist, so they're even lighter. Won't be like that either.

wareaglescott

12-27-2016, 08:55 AM

MPTech

12-27-2016, 11:24 AM

Congratulations on the first start!

If you didn't use Jeff's suggestion (or something similar) on the corrugated SS hose, I highly recommend it, before it's too late. I thought I had the clamps pretty tight, but when it gets up to temp and builds pressure, it will blow them off and make a pretty good mess (and hopefully not burn you while you're driving!)

RHITME03

12-27-2016, 12:41 PM

Congrats - Sounds like a very good use of a Holiday weekend.

2FAST4U

12-27-2016, 01:00 PM

Excellent job and congrats on the milestone.

bluse

12-27-2016, 01:02 PM

Nice work. I have enjoyed your build.

Jazzman

12-27-2016, 06:09 PM

Thanks to all for the support!! Jeff's very valuable information came after I had already installed everything, so i do not have the little screws in the corrugated pipe. I will likely have to get in there and do it just so I won't be worrying about it!! Sincere thanks, Jeff, for your wise counsel.

Interesting setback today. I spent an hour and half on the phone with Watson's Streetworks. They are really great with service after the sale. We talked through everything, tested several things, even verified the functionality of the RFID system if the car gets further than about 40 feet from me. That part works great. It shut down 45 seconds after the RFID chip was out of range. Pretty cool security feature!! However, we still could not pinpoint the reason the ignition system works most of the time, but not dependably all the time. Bottom line: they theorize that their current ignition module "backfeeds" with the 2016 Coyote system. (It works fine with the 2015 appearantly.) THey are going to go back to their engineer and have one part of their current system replaced and send me a customized box that should solve the problem. That will take about a week. In the interim, the car wont start because part of the testing was to cut two of the key wires that make the system work. (I could hook them back together, but then I would have to cut them again to put in the new Ignition module box.) So for this week, the car is silent again. :(

i.e.427

12-27-2016, 09:06 PM

IT's ALIVE!! I am so excited!!

Congrats Kevin! One more step closer.

BTW. Your roll bars go to the machine shop this week, sorry for the delay.

i.e.427

Jazzman

12-28-2016, 02:27 AM

Congrats Kevin! One more step closer.

BTW. Your roll bars go to the machine shop this week, sorry for the delay.

i.e.427

Thanks! That is great news. No worries for the delay. Didn't need them yet anyway!!

Jazzman

12-28-2016, 02:29 AM

Do you have a code reader that allows you to check for DTCs? Probably a good idea after a couple run cycles to hook one up and see if anything is showing up. That is also give you an idea if the MIL is functioning properly.

I don't, but a friend does. I will borrow it from him after the ignition issues are sorted out. Good idea. So far, no MIL light.

edwardb

12-28-2016, 07:37 AM

I don't, but a friend does. I will borrow it from him after the ignition issues are sorted out. Good idea. So far, no MIL light.

With a custom computer controlled engine install like the Coyote, I agree it's a good idea to have a code reader. There will be inevitable DTC's. They're available for pretty cheap if all you want to do is read and clear codes. For now, you should be seeing the MIL quickly flash when ignition power is first applied to the PCM. That's to let you know the light is working.

Jazzman

12-28-2016, 11:08 AM

With a custom computer controlled engine install like the Coyote, I agree it's a good idea to have a code reader. There will be inevitable DTC's. They're available for pretty cheap if all you want to do is read and clear codes. For now, you should be seeing the MIL quickly flash when ignition power is first applied to the PCM. That's to let you know the light is working.

That's good counsel. Thus far I haven't noticed the MIL flashing at all, but I haven't been looking there at startup either. When I next fire it up, I will look for it. Do you have a suggestion of a particular code reader that is appropriate? Are there any features that I should be sure to get, or any that are a waste of money? I might as well get one that is compatible with both my Roadster and my F150.

Thanks!

edwardb

12-28-2016, 11:31 AM

That's good counsel. Thus far I haven't noticed the MIL flashing at all, but I haven't been looking there at startup either. When I next fire it up, I will look for it. Do you have a suggestion of a particular code reader that is appropriate? Are there any features that I should be sure to get, or any that are a waste of money? I might as well get one that is compatible with both my Roadster and my F150.

Thanks!

For just the basic stuff like reading and clearing codes, there are many options. The 16-pin ODB2 portal is an industry standard. I have an Actron CP9125C that I picked up at Advance Auto sometime back. Seems well made and works fine. I see they're on sale right now ($39) so a pretty good deal. But there are other choices, some even cheaper.

Jazzman

12-29-2016, 02:46 AM

Wired in the fuel cutoff switch tonight. I didn't want to do it until I was convinced that the engine worked. (one more thing to go wrong!!) Because of the size of the wires, it appears that the fuel wire in the coyote harness carries a significant number of amps. I decided to use a relay to set this up just to be sure that there was adequate power. It has taken me a while to wrap my head around how a relay works, so here is how I did this circuit through a four wire, 40 amp, relay: (Your colors could be different from mine, but the numbered locations on the back of the relay should be consistent. To find the location numbers, unplug the wires from the relay and look next to the metal pins on the relay.)

The blue wire from the hot dot switch is the input signal from the switch to the relay. It is connected to the coyote pigtail wire marked "fuel pump relay output". This is where the signal starts coming into the switch and relay.
The black wire from the Hot Dot switch is the switched output from the switch to the relay. This wire is connected to the red trigger input wire at location 85 on the relay.
The large orange wire at location 30 on the relay is incoming 12v power from the switched bus bar. This is the power that actually ends up going to the fuel pump.
The black wire from location 87 on the relay is the power output. This is connected to the wire that goes to the RF fuel relay wire and ultimately directly to the fuel pump.
The blue wire from location 86 on the relay goes to ground

I temporarily reconnected the ignition wires that I clipped yesterday to diagnose the ignition module problem. I then confirmed several things in the positive. #1: The RFID security system really does work. I tried to start the car but had left the RFID chips in my bedroom It would not start. #2: With the fuel pump cutoff switch in the out/off position, the engine will crank but no fuel gets there, thus it will not start. #3: When you push the fuel pump cutoff swithc to the in/on position, the engine starts right up. All in all, a successful evening.

*****EDIT: The information here is correct, but don't do this until you read post 568. There is a better solution.

WIS89

12-29-2016, 12:07 PM

Kevin-

Congrats on resolving your start/fuel issue! I also looked at the hot dot start system. I am pleased that you like it.

You've done some great work, and I have enjoyed following along!

Happy New Year.

Regards,

Steve

Jazzman

12-29-2016, 10:09 PM

I love this project because there is always something new to learn. Our mutual friend EdwardB sent me the following:

That will work, as you confirmed. But it appears you've effectively taken the Coyote PDB out of the fuel pump power supply business. The relay and fusing it already has is now only energizing a relay coil. You've moved the heavy lifting of powering the fuel pump to the direct feed from your bus bar that doesn't have a fuse or circuit breaker. At least as I understand it. This is potentially dangerous.

At the very least, I would recommend wiring the relay differently. The idea of a relay is to use a switch and low current voltage to trigger the relay to switch a high current voltage. Instead of having the on/off switch you've added on the Coyote +12V wire, I would recommend it's on the wire from your bus bar. Switch this voltage on/off to trigger the relay and complete the fuel pump circuit to the Coyote PDB. Like this:

30 = Coyote +12V fuel pump power from PDB
87 = Power wire to fuel pump
85 = Switched power from bus bar
86 = Ground

Note that some relay diagrams will show 85 and 86 reversed from this (85 as ground, 86 as relay power) but I've wired both ways and haven't seen any difference.

Having said that, I personally think you've added some unnecessary complication here. And I say that in the most positive, constructive way possible. I agree it makes sense to have a fuel pump switch. I put one in my build too. But you already have a fuel pump relay in the RF panel and the inertia switch, right? The purpose of that is to switch off the fuel pump should the inertia switch activate. I piggy backed on that circuit and just put a switch in one of the wires to the inertia switch. The manual switch does the same thing as the inertia switch. It breaks the ground to the fuel pump relay in the RF panel and in turn breaks the fuel pump wire connection. Simple and works perfectly. No additional wiring or relays necessary.

My recommendation is that you don't need the added relay at all. That's assuming you have the intertia switch as I described. Putting an on/off switch in one of the wires to the intertia switch does exactly what you want (manually switch off the fuel pump) and doesn't disturb any of the other wires, have any impact on the Watson's Streetworks system you installed, or have any concerns with too much current on anything.

EdwardB is right. His solution is simple, it's elegant, it works, and it does not introduce unnecessary complexity or remove safety features such as fused circuits. I am going to remove the unnecessary additional relay and break into the inertia switch line. Thanks Edwardb for the lesson in simplicity!

Jazzman

01-01-2017, 04:01 AM

I am slowly checking things off my punch list. Too much year end and family stuff. Oh well. There's no rush. I am still waiting for the replacement ignition module from Watson's Streetworks. Don't get me wrong, they are being great, but given the holidays, I am not expecting them to get it done in just week. Its sort of funny. Sometimes the car starts on cue, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes I can turn it off, sometimes not! It's always exciting.

I have been checking off small projects:

I rewired the fuel cutoff switch as instructed, connecting it to the inertia switch. It works great.

I did a very rudimentary wheel alignment. It won't stand up to a professional one, but both front wheels now point in essentially the same direction! It looks a bit more normal too.

I fixed a minor fuel leak. One of the more difficult to reach fittings just above the rear PS wheel was not quite tight. With a bit of help from my beautiful assistant, we got it tightened up. Messy, but simple to fix.

I removed the upper radiator hose, made a big mess, installed the stainless screws into the corrogated hose, and put it all back together. It was a chore, but does seem to work well. THANKS AGAIN, JEFF KLEINER!

I confirmed that front spindle nuts and the rear axel nuts are torqued to specification.

I loosened up all the DS header bolts. I had not been able to get one of the bolts screwed in. With the use of a mirror, I discovered that the entire header was ever so slightly rearward. It was not as difficult to loosen the bolts as I had expected. The heat cycles of the engine had allowed the header gasket to compress, functionally making the bolts just a bit loose. After getting the last bolt started in it's hole, I then retightened all the header bolts on both sides of the engine. Some on the PS were a bit loose as well. One more item for the routine maintenance checklist.

I took the car off the jack stands and got it on solid terra firma. That was a nerve wracking job, but it got done. I am using a 1500lb motorcycle lift to raise and lower the car. For the most part it works great, but it has its limitations. It fits very nicely under the front to support the front 4" rail. It just barely is long enough to lift the frame and not hit the cross member of the flip top tilt system. It will clearly not be long enough to lift this way once the body is on. I first lowered the front of the car to the lowest setting on the jack stands. This still left the frame 10-12" in the air. The only way i had to get it down was to lift it from the side. The jack is long enough to reach the main frame, but not if side pipes are installed. I removed the side pipes. I carefully found the center of the weight of the car where the jack on the side would lift both front and back equally. After raising the car enough to get two of the jack stands out, i slowly lowered the wheels to the floor. I repeated the procedure on the other side. The full weight of the car is now sitting on the springs for the very first time. THe frame is currently about 5" off the floor. I will work on lowering it as soon as I find the correct tool to adjust the spring tension. (Yeah!! one more tool to buy!!)

It may be a stretch to call it a "go cart" event, but I was able to back the car down the driveway and drive it back into the garage under it's own power.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62445&d=1483258922

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62444&d=1483258922

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62443&d=1483258921

The alternator is certainly working well. I am surprised to see the volts this high when it is running. I don't know if it really is a problem, I just happened to notice it.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62442&d=1483258921

The idle is very smooth, but this is what registers on the tach. I think I may have set it one notch too low.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62440&d=1483258919

Jeff Kleiner

01-01-2017, 06:34 AM

Great to see it sitting on it's feet!!! That is most certainly what can be called a go cart :)

Regarding "the correct tool to adjust the spring tension." You should already have a couple of them at the end of your arms! Raise the car/side/end/corner so that the weight is off of the springs and the adjusting collars will turn by hand. FWIW, I do not tighten the collar setscrews and in fact remove them altogether because if you tighten them against the aluminum sleeve there is a good chance that the threads will get distorted which will make it very difficult to move the collars should you need to make future adjustments . With the weight of the car bearing on them they do not move (I've never had one change on any of the cars I've done).

Congrats on your New Years milestone!

Jeff

edwardb

01-01-2017, 08:10 AM

x2 on Jeff's comments regarding adjusting the coilovers. He beat me to it. My alternator voltage runs about the same as you're showing. I've heard from others seeing the same thing. This particular alternator seems to run a little high I guess (higher than the somewhat normal 14+) or maybe the Speedhut gauge registers a little high? I may check mine with another meter, but other than that just keep an eye on things. Your tach is a bit of a mystery. I doubt very much that's the right reading. You have the Speedhut calibration on .5 pulse per revolution (needle at 1,000 rpm during calibration)? How did you wire to the Coyote? As you sure you picked the signal wire and not the common lead? I have no idea how it would work if not wired to the signal lead. At some point you're going to want (need?) a long reach low profile floor jack. I've had this one for a couple years http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-low-profilelong-reach-steel-heavy-duty-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-68050.html and it is holding up well. It's heavy, but moves around OK. I have a couple other floor jacks, but almost always use this one. Reaches the front cross member or the rear center section (perfect way to life the rear of the car) with the body on.

Congrats on getting the build on its own feet! Looks great.

wareaglescott

01-01-2017, 08:36 AM

Congrats on the go cart!
I have the same low profile jack as Paul. Works great so far. I have had the car up on jack stands numerous times since first setting it down. I found to get it high enough to work under I have to sort of step it up. If I jack the front up to much the angle keeps me from being able to get the jack under the differential from the rear. My method is to jack the front part way and put the jack stands under the 4" tubes on their lowest setting. Then go to the rear and jack it all the way up for those jack stands at their highest setting. Then back to the front to move the front stands to their highest setting. Works good to get the car at a workable height. When I am done I just do the opposite procedure stepping down the front. A lift sure would be nice!

Vette1972

01-01-2017, 09:25 AM

Congrats Jazzman! Car looks good. Keep up the good work.

Jazzman

01-03-2017, 02:22 AM

I am moving toward putting the body and hood back on the car before I send it off to be painted. I plan to do the underside of the body in bed liner since it won't be seen. I am leaning toward doing bed liner on the underside of the hood as well, but really haven't decided yet. The last time I did a lot of sanding and body work I turned the the entire garage into a pink disaster area. I am still cleaning out pink dust from nooks and crannies. This time, I put up a heavy plastic drop cloth all the way around the third bay in the garage. I moved the hood back into the my temporary sanding room. When I ordered my kit, I didn't have them cut out the openings. Generally it isn't very difficult. I copied and cut out the headlight opening template from the instruction manual. I traced out the area to be cut on the car, then just to be sure I had the right size, I measured the template against the headlight bucket. It turns out the template would have created an opening almost 1/4" too big. I cut 1/8" inside the line I had drawn, then used a file to sneak up on the right size. Now the bucket fits perfectly.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62480&d=1483425853

I ordered up a pair of these beautiful high polished stainless steel side louvers. To mount them, I attached the perforated disc's I have used so many times before.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62482&d=1483425853

(To clarify, the louvers look great. I was not referring to the masked man behind the camera. Sorry. I don't know who let him in!!) I went to mark their location on the inside of the hood, and discovered I have another issue:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62483&d=1483425853

The bottom rearmost corner (remember the hood is upside down) conflicts with the structural rib I added. Hmmm. Two choices: trim the louvers, or trim the rib. I'm leaning toward trimming the rib. I already have some other fibreglass work to do on the inside of the hood, so this would be just one more. I'm going to sleep on this one.

**** EDIT **** I'm glad I slept on it. I must have been tired! I forgot the hood was upside down, which means left side is PASSENGER side and Right side is DRIVER! I matched up the correct louver to the correct side, and what do you know, they fit just fine!! Whew! That would have been embarrasing!

I turned to the hood latches. It is not easy to be as obsessive as I am. In today's installment, I am considering how I want them to look on the final product. Currently, the chrome lever on the outside of the hood sits proud of the hood surface by about 1/16". I am debating trying to create the right fit so that the lever will sit flush with the surface. I think it would look nice, but it also moves the latch toward the center of the car. This is exactly opposite of what really needs to happen. For now, I am just working to make the levers sit level. I want them to be appropriately fitted, but I don't want them to be too tight. I am thinking that there should be at least 1/16" between the edge of the lever and the edge of the hood. How thick are the multiple coats of primer, paint, and clear coat? Better check on that. I also decided to fill in the space at the top of the opening to fit the curve of the latch when it is closed. I cut a piece of thick plastic sheeting to protect the chrome latch lever, then filled the wide area at the top with HSRF. I will sand it down to flow smoothly into the lever.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62481&d=1483425853

Jeff Kleiner

01-03-2017, 05:54 AM

...The bottom rearmost corner (remember the hood is upside down) conflicts with the structural rib I added. Hmmm. Two choices: trim the louvers, or trim the rib...

Have you considered a third choice of moving the louvers forward enough to clear?

Jeff

Jazzman

01-03-2017, 12:20 PM

Have you considered a third choice of moving the louvers forward enough to clear? Jeff

Yes, I have. It will work, but the fins would not be centered in the opening. Not the worst thing, perhaps. Certainly worth considering. Thanks, Jeff.

Jeff Kleiner

01-03-2017, 02:08 PM

Oh, When you said you ordered without cutouts I assumed that you had not yet cut the openings for louver and could simply make them more forward.

Jeff

i.e.427

01-04-2017, 01:28 AM

Kevin, here are a few progress pictures of your roll bars. Should be able to pack them up and send them out in the next week or so. Your build is looking great!
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa78/frankeeski/KevinsRollBar2_zpswixcqreg.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/frankeeski/media/KevinsRollBar2_zpswixcqreg.jpg.html)

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa78/frankeeski/KevinsRollBar_zpsy2tb1hh5.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/frankeeski/media/KevinsRollBar_zpsy2tb1hh5.jpg.html)

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa78/frankeeski/KevinsRollBar3_zpsbfocxu1p.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/frankeeski/media/KevinsRollBar3_zpsbfocxu1p.jpg.html)

i.e.427

Jazzman

01-04-2017, 11:27 AM

Kevin, here are a few progress pictures of your roll bars. Should be able to pack them up and send them out in the next week or so. Your build is looking great!
i.e.427

Sweet!! Thanks!

Jazzman

01-05-2017, 03:23 AM

I have been planning to put some sort of lights inside the engine compartment in case I have to work on the engine at night. I decide to put them on the ends of the hood trusses. I found some nice LED strip lights from Watson Speedworks that have 3M double sided tape on them. Simple installation. (Well sort of!) I put two layers of shrink tape over the wire where it would pass into the truss.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62525&d=1483603720

The most difficult part of the process was fishing a wire through the lower channel of the truss. It is a single 3/4" channel, cut and bent to create one seamless channel. It does have two bends in it, and I suspect that the inside of the welds are not perfectly smooth. With a bit of work, the guide wire finally slid through.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62526&d=1483603720

A bit of tape to hold the light wire to the fish wire, and it is ready to pull through.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62527&d=1483603720

The light itself is simple to attach with the double sided tape already on the back side.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62529&d=1483603720

I fitted a square square channel cap to the exit end of the truss. I had already drilled a small hole in the cap and put one layer of shrink wrap over the wire where it will pass through the cap.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62528&d=1483603720

I haven't decided if I will put a switch somewhere on the car or install a mercury level switch to come on automatically when the hood is opened.

Jazzman

01-06-2017, 10:13 PM

I finished a busy week with yet another milestone: First Go Cart! It was amazing. So powerful, so fast . . . and I didn't even get out of 3rd gear!! I had to keep it slow because I can only run around in my neighborhood. I got it up to 40 once, but quickly had to take it back down to turn a corner. No particular surprises. It does bring the neighbors out of their houses!! The brakes are not as powerful as I expected. Perhaps they just need to get bedded in.

https://youtu.be/o9bqTiajSXM

GoDadGo

01-06-2017, 10:39 PM

edwardb

01-07-2017, 09:21 AM

Congratulations! Looks and sounds great. Another big milestone in your build.

2bking

01-07-2017, 10:33 AM

Jazzman

01-07-2017, 11:47 AM

I know it was exhilarating driving what you built. Congratulations! It's always good when go-karting happens without a trail of something behind you and all systems work. I changed my master cylinders from .75 dia to .70 dia and got a 15% reduction in pedal effort and no noticeable pedal height change. My leg could tell the difference. I'm considering making another change to the .68 dia masters to gain another 5%.

I may have to do that. Did you change all three MC's to .70? The front brake MC is currently 0.75 and the rear brake MC is 0.625. The Clutch MC is surprisingly large: 1.12! That is larger than my memory thought it was when I was researching this from Forte almost a year ago, but there have been a lot of decisions and research since then! I am have to go back and review what others have done. If you have changed your MC's let me know what you did and how you like it.

2bking

01-07-2017, 08:03 PM

I may have to do that. Did you change all three MC's to .70? The front brake MC is currently 0.75 and the rear brake MC is 0.625. The Clutch MC is surprisingly large: 1.12! That is larger than my memory thought it was when I was researching this from Forte almost a year ago, but there have been a lot of decisions and research since then! I am have to go back and review what others have done. If you have changed your MC's let me know what you did and how you like it.

I have the Wilwood upgrade brakes with 6 piston fronts and single piston rears. The kit came with a pair of .75 dia masters for the front/rear. You may not be so lucky as to be able to go down in diameter for both front and rear. I'm thinking .688 was the smallest Wilwood offered in the style master I am using. The clutch master is a different story. I built my own hydraulic clutch and have different piston sizes from what Forte offers. I would follow what Paul did for the clutch. Changing the master changes the release point on the clutch pedal and pedal effort. A higher release point will require more pedal effort and vise versa.

Jazzman

01-08-2017, 03:44 PM

I installed the back wall of the cockpit yesterday. I had been stalling to be sure that all the wiring that I might want was complete in that area. I did re-route the wires to go to the license plate to clean it up just a bit. After this was done, I couldn't put off installing the back wall any longer. No particular drama. I found i missed a few holes, but it all went together pretty much as I had anticipated. Unfortunately, the last of my 1/8" drill bits broke just as I was drilling the final holes. Off to Home Depot again! (Glad I own stock in Home Depot! My own shopping alone should raise their earnings per share!!)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62571&d=1483907436

I turned my attention to the emergency brake. It is a bit more loose than I would like, so I will have to adjust that the next time the car is high enough in the air to give me access to the fittings. I made one other minor change. What is different here?

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62572&d=1483907436

Because the driver inherently pulls the ebrake handle towards themselves, the lower nut that holds the handle on to the ebrake toothed piece was hitting, catching , and ultimately bending the tranny tunnel wall right at the edge of the opening for the ebrake. I took off the bolts that hold the handle on, drilled out the attachment holes, and installed the bolts with the nuts on the outboard side. This allows the head of the bolt, which is quite thin by comparison, to slide right by the tranny tunnel wall. If you haven't already figured this out, make this change before you have a transmission in that tunnel. It would have been much easier to do at that point!!

I started the slow process of installing the Thermo-Tec Cool-It heat and sound protection matting in the cockpit. I began by double coating walls of the footbox that is nearest to the exhaust system. I won't feel any heat from that engine. (My wife was disappointed when she learned that she would not have a continuous supply of warm air in the winter! I may have to rethink a bit.) Perhaps some air vents like EdwardB installed. I am trying to not have seams in the mat material at the same place that there is a seam in the aluminum. I used silicone at every joint, but I am wanting the Cool-It Mat material to provide an extra layer water seal protection.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62573&d=1483907436

edwardb

01-08-2017, 03:58 PM

Jazzman

01-08-2017, 06:36 PM

More progress! Shouldn't be bulb seal on the back cockpit wall though. Only on the corners. Nothing between the trunk sides. With the carpet all the way to the top, it tucks behind the body roll and is usually a pretty tight fit. Pretty good chance it won't go together correctly with the added bulb seal.

Interesting! I have had the body on and off several times with the bulb seal there, and it fit like I expected it to. If the bulb seal shouldn't be there, what keeps the back wall of the cockpit and the sides of the trunk from vibrating and squeaking against the inside of the body? Also, where does the bulb seal go if not there!! Thanks for the heads up. It is always appreciated.

Jeff Kleiner

01-08-2017, 08:07 PM

Bulb seal goes like so Kevin:

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/Mk4%207276/100_2601-1.jpg

Carpet runs a little long up the back wall and tucks over the top edge.

Nice to talk to you today!

Cheers,
jeff

AZPete

01-12-2017, 05:46 PM

Kevin, I've been following your well-written build thread for months and really enjoy the creativity and guts to do the flip front. Congrats on the successful go-kart with no sparks, flames, smoke, leaks, parts on the street or tow straps! It takes hundreds of things to go right for that go-kart to run. I hope to see you at Barrett-Jackson. You still have my cell#?
Pete

Jazzman

01-13-2017, 01:17 AM

When I was about 12 years old, I had an experience which shaped my young life. I had to perform, solo, for the director of the world famous choir of which I was already a member. I had to prove that I was thoroughly prepared for an upcoming European tour. I was terrified to perform for him, The Master, by myself, with only a dispassionate pianist for company. The Master listened to my prepared works, asked me several questions, and nodded that he was done with me. I wasn't entirely sure of his thoughts about my skills, but I had passed his test. Several months later The Master bestowed upon me words that have echoed in my ears for 40 years: "He was the best prepared of anyone in the choir".

Today I was honored with a visit from another master, this one of the automotive arts. Some months ago I began communicating with Jeff "Da Bat" Miller about the possibility of him putting the final touches on my own work of art. It turns out that Jeff had also been commissioned by FFR to paint the body of the '33 Hot Rod that FFR will be building during this years Barrett Jackson Auto Auction in Scottsdale. Jeff and his son left home at 3am today to deliver that work of rolling art to the FFR team at Westworld in Scottsdale. Since I live only minutes from the location of the worlds greatest collector car auction, "Da Master" graciously offered to stop by and review my work.

I was both thrilled and petrified to accept his offer. I was pretty sure he was really coming to see if I had screwed up the project so badly that even he could not save it!! I can't blame him. A first timer who is either gutsy or crazy enough to chop the body in half?!! Healthy skepticism is to be expected. I wasn't sure what he would say. In my ignorance, had I done something that was either extremely difficult or expensive to fix, or had I neglected something utterly obvious that might reveal my inexperience? There was no way to know. I cleaned the shop, dusted the car, put everything in its place. There was nothing else to do but wait for Da Master's judgement.

Jeff pulled up and I immediately knew he was a true artist. The '33 hotrod body sitting in his truck was amazing! He introduced me to his son and we moved into my shop. He first looked over the rolling chassis. He made a couple of minor suggestions that will help fit the body on the frame more easily. The dash needs to be trimmed down just a bit to the top frame, eliminating the small point at the PS end. He looked over the rest of the car. He made a suggestion to seal the fuel pump a bit more thoroughly, suggested I replace the gasket on the fuel inlet pipe because it was much easier to do now, and he had experienced leakage on the ones that came with the tank. He complimented my attention to detail. I'll take it!

We moved on to examining the hood and the body sections. He asked me about my process of laying the fibreglass and resin. He asked me how many layers I had laid, if I had feathered it out, and how wide were my layers of glass. He looked at the body, examining the flange that I had created to support the hood structure. He made a few suggestions about how to trim the front and back rolls as the body flows down into the cockpit. He looked over my HSRF application. He made some suggestions to make installing the roll bars a bit easier. He was very thorough, but he was very kind and helpful.

So did I pass? I guess so. He agreed to take on my project. He then spent a long time answering my questions. I had a list of 20 of them! He patiently answered every one. He was very candid about the fact that he is not a fan of customizers that do things to change the artistry already inherent in the original sculpture that is a classic automobile form. He did, however, agree that my work, while different from the the traditional, left the resulting sculpture of the body intact. I truly appreciated his candor. I was thoroughly impressed by his knowledge and his passion to do things the right way. He understood my passion to make this car very special. I am thrilled that this "rolling sculpture artist" has agreed to complete the body work and apply the finish to my creation. The start date is still a couple of months off, but that fits nicely into my own time line. Thank you, Jeff Miller, for taking time out of your busy schedule to come to see my work. I look forward to the day when I can deliver it into your hands for it's final journey to completion.

wareaglescott

01-13-2017, 06:33 AM

What type gasket did he recommend to use on the fuel tank? Do you have a part number and vendor?

Jeff Kleiner

01-13-2017, 07:42 AM

:D

Jeff

Jazzman

01-13-2017, 05:07 PM

What type gasket did he recommend to use on the fuel tank? Do you have a part number and vendor?

The first seal is to add gasket seal to the fuel pump. He said to remove the wires from the fuel pump, then remove the retaining ring. Swing it up on top of the fuel lines. Apply some gasket maker seal around the edge of the fuel pump to seal around the gasket that is already there. Reinstall the fuel pump retaining ring. Let it dry. Because the tank and pump were already installed, I had to use a toungue depressor sliced in half to apply the gasket sealer around the edge of the pump. I clearly used a bit too much, so it squeezed out the side. I spread it around as a tertiary seal.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62733&d=1484343826

The second improvement he suggested is the rubber grommet around the fuel fill pipe where the pipe enters the tank. It is easiest to do this before the tank is installed. Since I didn't do that, It is also easier to do before the body is on. He suggested using the stock Ford grommet. I looked on Tasca parts and I couldn't find the part. I will have to do some more digging to figure out the part number. I will let you know when I find it.

Jeff Kleiner

01-13-2017, 06:01 PM

...
The second improvement he suggested is the rubber grommet around the fuel fill pipe where the pipe enters the tank. It is easiest to do this before the tank is installed. Since I didn't do that, It is also easier to do before the body is on. He suggested using the stock Ford grommet. I looked on Tasca parts and I couldn't find the part. I will have to do some more digging to figure out the part number. I will let you know when I find it.

Mark has it:

http://www.breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=273

http://www.breezeautomotive.com/_images/products/product1_273.jpg

Cheers,
Jeff

Jazzman

01-15-2017, 11:15 PM

The third week in January each year turns Scottsdale, AZ, into automotive heaven: The Barrett Jackson Auto Auction! 9 days, over 1500 cars to be auctioned of every conceivable size, style, age, and color. I am lucky enough to live only 4 miles from the venue. This year there is an added bonus: Factory Five is making a big presence at the show. They are building a 33 Hotrod during the show, and have their semi-truck full of toys on full display.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62804&d=1484537948

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62798&d=1484537944

Factory five is well represented on the auction block as well. The finest might be the '33 Hot Rod that was done in conjunction with Hot Rod Magazine a few years ago. (I am embarrased to say I was so mesmerized by the craftsmanship and stunning looks, I forgot to snap a photo of it! No matter, you can watch it be auctioned on Thursday afternoon. It is lot #773.1) There is also a highly customized Roadster challenge car going across the block. It is spectacular!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62802&d=1484537946

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62803&d=1484537947

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62799&d=1484537945

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62800&d=1484537945

There is so much more to see here. Keep your eyes glued to Velocity and the Discovery Channel this week. You might just see one of the Factory Fives, perhaps one or more of the FFR crew. A full week pass will allow me plenty of time to take in all the amazing cars. (No bidder pass, though!!) Its going to be a fun week!!

(Note: After tonight's posts, it might be a while before I can post again. I am having Carpel Tunnel release surgery done on both wrists on Tuesday. My typing will be limited for a few days, and my work on the Roadster will be curtailed for a bit longer. This is another reason that I will have plenty of time to spend at the Barrett Jackson Auction: I can't do much of anything else!!)

Jazzman

01-15-2017, 11:47 PM

One of the many benefits of going to the Barrett Jackson is to draw inspiration from other master craftsmen. I have spent a good deal of time talking to Ryan Valin. You have seen his work in his own build thread. He was asked by FFR to come to the Barrett Jackson to talk to potential customers. He is incredibly friendly, knowledgeable, and helpful. I have spend time with FFR employees, Dan and Tony. Both are really great people! Just standing around chatting at the FFR display is both a joy and a learning experience!

Having Factory Five's touring show here makes it possible for me to look closely at items on completed cars. I have been struggling with how to get the hood latches from the Daytona Coupe to look "right" on my build. As has happened before, I discovered I was overthinking it. Remember when I installed the attachment discs on the inside of the hood to hold the latches?

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62791&d=1484537917

I could not get the latches to fit closely enough to the inside of the hood to either allow enough room to attach to the mounting point on the footbox or to look "finished" on the outside of the hood. I looked at the actual part installed on the Coupe at the show. Here are photos of both sides:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62795&d=1484537942

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62796&d=1484537943

I was trying to hide the attachment bolts. They didn't even bother! Why should I?!! I removed the attachment discs from the inside of the hood, sanded the whole area smooth again, remarked the hole locations for the latches, and drilled holes for 8x32 bolts. I will put chrome or stainless steel bolts in when the final assembly is done. (there will be four bolts holding the latches in place, but I have only two holes drilled in the photos.)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62788&d=1484537915

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62789&d=1484537916

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62790&d=1484537916

I pulled out the Tangent Driving lights to get the mounting holes drilled. I had previously had the mounting parts powder coated. It didn't take long to put the lights into their mounts. I attached the entire unit to the inside of the hood and centered it in the small oval hole below the air intake at the nose. Four holes later it was ready to be installed. (Ok, actually my drill bit moved a bit on one of the holes, so I had to do a bit of correction, but when the unit is installed with the included fender washers, those enlarged holes wont even been seen. At only 4" off the ground, I wasn't really worried about it anyway!!)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=62787&d=1484537914

I removed the lights and packed them away until it is time for final installation. I spend a bit of time filling and sanding the underside of the hood. I am not going to be too anal about it because it will be covered with rubberized bed liner, but I do want it to look like I cared about how it looks.

dnew

01-21-2017, 02:36 PM

Jazzman or Jeff or ?,

The second improvement he suggested is the rubber grommet around the fuel fill pipe where the pipe enters the tank. It is easiest to do this before the tank is installed. Since I didn't do that, It is also easier to do before the body is on. He suggested using the stock Ford grommet. I looked on Tasca parts and I couldn't find the part. I will have to do some more digging to figure out the part number. I will let you know when I find it.

A question regarding the tank seal. I am at the point in my build that I can still replace this pretty easy. Just curious why the suggestion? Does the one from FFR leak (gasoline or vapor via a tolerance issue) or does it not last as long as the OEM?

thanks

Jeff Kleiner

01-21-2017, 06:39 PM

...Does the one from FFR leak (gasoline or vapor via a tolerance issue) or does it not last as long as the OEM?

thanks

Don't know what issues Kevin's might have had to prompt the suggestion from Jeff Miller to replace his but I've had no problems with the FFR supplied ones on cars I've done.

Jeff

Jazzman

01-21-2017, 08:46 PM

I really don't know what prompted Jeff Miller to suggest replacing the fuel tank fill pipe grommet. I have not had any leak issues, haven't read about anyone else having any. I guess we will have to wait for "Da Bat" to enlighten us.

Jazzman

01-25-2017, 12:25 AM

My hands are healing nicely. I was very impressed to find out that the pain from Carpel Tunnel Release surgery is so minimal I didn't even have to take aspirin during my recovery. It has now been a week since the surgery. The pain is minimal. Only when I have to put significant pressure using my thumb do I know that I was invaded. The numbness and tingling are almost completely gone. Only the tips of my middle fingers are still slightly numb. One of those was the one I ran through the table saw, so it may never be exactly right!! If you have been considering having this surgery done, I would definitely recommend it.

The Barrett Jackson Auction was a great event. It was great to get to visit with the crew from FFR and the other guests of FFR. The crew did a fine job of introducing many auction patrons to the challenges and rewards that is the "Built not Bought" experience. They also built a fine looking hotrod. Truth be told, I think they could have built three of them during the week. They all knew so well what to do, they breezed right through it. Impressive!! I heard that this was the first time in many years that FFR had come to Scottsdale for the King of all auto auctions. I do hope that it was a positive experience for them, and that they come back each year in the future. If you were a seller at the auction, you had two potential bits of unpleasantness: It rained quite a lot (which we always need!!), and attendance and prices were both down. If you were a buyer, you only were unhappy about the weather!!

I have been slowly and carefully working on very small projects, testing out my hands and nerves. I have been working on putting the heat/sound shielding throughout the cockpit. I was finally able to get that all done. Every surface now has a smooth coat of ThermoTec matting. It really makes the cockpit seem more substantial. No more tinny plinking on bare aluminum.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63217&d=1485319951

While some like to cover the tranny tunnel with carpet, I plan to cover mine with black leather to match the seats. I may even run matching leather down the sides of the tunnel. Still working that one out. It is important for me to retain access to the transmission area. Some have made some rather impressive hidden attachments for the tranny cover. I decided that I actually like the look of some black polished button head bolts that are accessible. I pulled out the old rivnut tool and went to work. I added three nutserts on to each side, all forward of the seats so they will be accessible after the seats are permanently installed. I also added two at the rear of the tranny cover.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63212&d=1485317383

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63213&d=1485317383

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63211&d=1485317382

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63210&d=1485317381

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63209&d=1485317381

While I had the rivnut tool out, I decided to add a few more nutserts. I found the cover for the fuel level sending unit, drilled the holes and popped the nutserts into place. I was going to do the same with the cover for the fuel pump, but I can't seem to find it! I know it is here, I saw it only a couple of weeks ago. Oh well, it will show up.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63208&d=1485317380

Watson's streetworks sent me a replacement for my defective ignition module. It took me a about 90 minutes to remove the old one and rewire in the new one. Well . . . strike two. The second one also has some sort of a problem with it. It will not trigger the auxilliury circuits. It goes from off to triggering the starter. I spent 30 minutes with the fine people at Watson's Streetworks. They helped me check everything. Sure enough, It was not my wiring. This one has a defect as well. They promised to put a new one in the mail to me tomorrow. They have been great to work with, but I sure hope the third time is the charm!!

Jazzman

01-25-2017, 12:51 AM

Quite a while ago I installed the inside side panels in the lower half of the trunk. Some time after that I removed them. I think I had it in my mind that I was going to run some wires inside there. I really can't remember what I was thinking. Then I got smart and attached the outside panels to the trunk. Well now I can't get to the bottom row of rivets on the inside panel. Bottom line: Put these inside panels in before you put on the outside panels. They are done now, sans the bottom row of rivets. Though certainly minimal, a bit of silicone will seal the space at the bottom.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63207&d=1485317380

Jazzman

01-29-2017, 02:26 AM

I have now survived the worst flue/cold that in my memory! I have been unable to work on the car for a solid week. Finally today the cold let go, and I am on the mend. I expect to be 100% by tomorrow. But even at 80% today, I could not resist getting back out to the shop. The boredom was killing me!

I started by installing the battery that had arrived Monday. It just barely fit, but slipped in it did.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63330&d=1485673663

Lesson: I should have used standard battery cable ends. It would have simplified this process. I had planned to use the cable ends that FFR provided, but they turned out to be too tall to fit into the battery box.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63329&d=1485673663

I'm not genius, but I am pretty sure it is a bad idea to have both terminals touching the aluminum top cover! A quick shopping trip to my friends at DelCity, and I had the right tool for the job. These cable ends allow easy attachment of the cable ends but keeps them low enough to clear the top. I did have to enlarge the holes in the cable ends, but that was pretty simple.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63331&d=1485673664

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63328&d=1485673662

The new, smaller 1.00 inch Wilwood master cylendar for the clutch also arrived earlier this week. It was a difficult, slow, and somewhat messy process to get the old one out. It works a bit easier than the 1 1/8" standard one that Forte provides. I am glad I did it, though it is not as easy to push the clutch as a power assisted one. It's good enough. I think it is a bit more smooth as well.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63326&d=1485673661

Give me a new toy, and I go crazy with it. A while back I purchased a much stronger rivnet setting tool, one with longer handles that require both hands. It makes setting rivnuts much easier than the one handed unit that broke. I decided that since access to the hood area is going to be greatly improved with the Flip Top, I should make it possible to access the two covers over the DS footbox. I hope I never need to get in there, but if I do, I would prefer not to have to remove the body to get to it. I started by setting the inner and outer cover.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63324&d=1485673660

I then went looking for the small cover for the hole in the inner cover. I hate it when I miss something!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63325&d=1485673661

Yep, with all the trips to the powder coater, somehow this piece got missed! Argh!! I put it on for now, and will remove it to have it coated when I am sure there is not something else that needs to be coated!

Jazzman

01-29-2017, 02:36 AM

This is very likely to be the color scheme that I will go with. I have wanted Candy Apple Red since the beginning of the project. I have seriously consider other great colors such as Lexus Indigo Ink Pearl, Tangerine Pearl, even Ice Pearl (white with a tinge of blue). I have changed my mind 10,000 times, but my heart is set a flutter each time I see this color:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63322&d=1485672958

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63323&d=1485673164

The photos are from a company called "Classic Recreations". I found them searching for "Candy Apple Red". Unfortunately there are about 200 different "candy apple reds". I am going to call Classic Recreations on Monday to see if they might share exactly what color they used. Time will tell if they consider that a trade secret. Do any of you paint experts happen to know what paint color this is?

2bking

01-29-2017, 12:07 PM

It's close to the Ford RZ Candy Red that Paul and I used. It's a tri-coat paint so the final color can be varied by the number of color coats applied which is the mid coat. I used three coats for the body and five for the phantom stripe. The picture looks like some black air brush accents were added where sharp bends occurred in the body panels.

Jazzman

01-29-2017, 11:20 PM

The goal today was to begin fabricating the custom nose cone to go on the inside of the nose oval to the radiator. It didn't get done. I woke up way too early this morning, and couldn't go back to sleep. I came down to the shop to begin what I hope will be the penultimate installation of the trusses under the hood. I retreived all the parts from the powder coating box. I am glad that I numbered all the mounting plates that attach the trusses to the hood. Even with the numbers on them, it still took a bit of doing to sort them all and get them installed. I am pleased to tell you that this process really went very smoothly. Just to be sure nothing would be cross threaded or that the threads have any residual resin in the them, I decided to clean the threads of perforated disks with a die. I could only do it by hand, and thankfully that is all it took.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63391&d=1485748458

After that, it was just a matter of lining up the parts, loosely attaching the mounting plates to the trusses. It is important to remember to tighten the #8x32 nuts that hold the mounting plates to the hood before you tighten the nuts that hold the plates to the trusses.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63392&d=1485748458

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63390&d=1485748457

Before I attach the hood to the frame, I needed to make consistent holes for rivets around the perimeter of the nose oval. It was just more simple to do it now than to wait till it was on the frame. I made a template out of scrap aluminum so I could bend it around the curves. I wanted a 7/8" setback and 3 inch spacing.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63395&d=1485749718

I chose a center location to work from, and then drew marks all the way around the nose.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63394&d=1485749718

Unfortunately that's as far as I got on that project.

Jazzman

01-29-2017, 11:54 PM

I did get the hood attached to the frame again. More lessons! I had forgotten and installed backwards the bolts and nuts that attach the small hinge plate to the hinge arms. This meant that when I went to attach the hinge system to the trusses, the nut was in the way. After chastising my self, I had to take the time to remove and reverse each bolt in the hinge mechanism. NOTE TO SELF FOR THE NEXT TIME: ALL BOLTS ON THE HINGE MECHANISM MUST HAVE THE NUTS TOWARD THE CENTER OF THE CAR!. (Photo is the correct way.)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63397&d=1485751971

It still took quite some time, and help from my bride, to get the hood/truss attached to the hinge system. I had forgotten that the way to get it to fit correctly is to leave the bolts slightly loose, close the hood, then tighen the nuts on the trusses. The hood is in it's resting position when the nuts are tightened. Once I did this, it pretty well set into place. That's when the fun began.

I was very pleased with the way the upper pair of elephant ears flowed nicely to the edge of the opening in front of the exhaust pipes.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63396&d=1485751971

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63389&d=1485748456

My error was do do this before the engine and exhaust pipes were installed. Apparently the headers I am using exit somewhat forward of the place that FFR marked the body cutout location. In it's current location, the upper elephant ears scrape by the forward bolt location on the exhaust pipes.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63388&d=1485748455

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63387&d=1485748455

I have two choices: leave it as is, or remove and reattach the channel that bonds the elephant ears to the sides of the hood. If I leave it as is, it is quickly going to get scratched through to the aluminum and look bad. If I try to redo the attachment system, I fear I will make it all fit even worse. At this point the two halves of the elephant ears fit together perfectly. But if I leave it, the upper elephant ears will get very hot being right next to the header. The mounting bracket that the ear is attached to will also get very hot. When it does, the bonding cement will release. I am pretty sure I am going to have to redo at least part of the mounting frame, but I am not sure how much. Can I slowly bend the bottom 8" of the ear to provide clearance without the rest of the ear deforming? I don't think so. I am considering just adding a striker plate to the place where it will rub and allow it to rub. Best answer when you don't know what to do: sleep on it.

Jazzman

02-01-2017, 02:54 AM

Back to wiring tonight. I started by putting weather packs on each of the six running lights, four red for the rear, two yellow for the front. I decided to trim the red wires to leave 8" of working distance. This should be plenty to go from the end of the wiring harness to the mounted locations on the rear of the car. I left the front lines much longer because there will need to be more ability to move with the movement of the Flip Top. I tested one of the red lights to be sure which wire controlled which function, and made a decision of how I would standardize the locations of the wires in the male side of the three position weather packs:

Red = Running light > Location "A" on the weather pack.
Black = Ground > Location "B".
Green = Turn signal/Brake light > Location "C".

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63515&d=1485933951

I then turned my attention to installing the weatherpacks on the rear of the wiring harness, both left and right. The good news is that I am close on my wiring. The running lights all work correctly.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63513&d=1485933950

The frustrating part is that the brake/turn signal function is working too well: both lights light up brightly when power is applied only to the turn signal function. Here is how I wired things up. Perhaps one of the experts can correct my faulty wiring. At the rear of the car there are four wires:

Black - ground
Tan - running lights
Purple - Brakes
white or yellow - turn signals right and left respectively.

Each light at the rear will need a ground wire, a tan running light wire, and a Purple brake wire. Only the top light should get a white or yellow because only the top light should function when the turn signal is activated. I began by clipping the ground wire near the last point that the wiring harness is attached to the frame. I then made up two ground wires, one for each light, and attached these two new wires to the short ground wire and joined them together at a ring terminal. The ring terminal will be riveted onto the frame to provide a solid and direct ground for each light individually as well at terminating the ground wire from the wiring harness. I split the purple brake light line and the tan running light wires into two wires, one which will go to each light. I left the turn signal line alone. *** EDIT: DO NOT SPLIT THE PURPLE LINE. PUT BRAKE IN ONE LIGHT AND TURN SIGNAL IN THE OTHER. SEE NEXT COUPLE OF POSTS. ***

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63514&d=1485933950

After trimming each wire and installing all the weatherpack metal terminals on each wire, I assembled the weather packs as follows:
Tan running light in each light to the "A" location (connects to the red wire in the light pigtail)
Black ground wire in each light to the "B" location (connects to the black ground wire in the light pigtail)
Purple brake light to the lower light to the "C" location, Purple and yellow or white wires together to the upper light at the "C" location. (each of these connects to the bright light function of the light pigtail, the green wire) *** EDIT: DO NOT PUT PURPLE AND EITHER YELLOW OR WHITE TOGETHER. PURPLE GOES IN ONE LIGHT, WHITE OR YELLOW IN THE OTHER. ***

At the moment, when power is applied only to the right turn signal wires, both the right lights are activated. (at least no light lit on the left side!!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63512&d=1485933949

My issue may also be in the wiring under the dash. I am still trying to figure all that out. The running lights will have their own switch, their own relay, and their own fuse. The relay will be powered by the Headlight #2 hot feed, the one that comes off the 15amp fuse in the RF fuse panel.

Jeff Kleiner

02-01-2017, 06:39 AM

Kevin,
Unless you use a module with the logic to allow directionals to override brake lights you can't have brakes on all four rear lamps. The kit's Ron Francis harness is set up so that all 4 lamps are illuminated for tail lights with one on each side used for brake lights and the other on each side used for turn signals. I prefer to orient them so that the uppers are brake lights for better visibility. When using that configuration:

---Tan harness wire at each corner is for tail lights and will go to the low element on all four light assemblies via the red/yellow lamp wire.

---Purple harness wire at each corner is for brake lights and will go to the bright element on the upper light assembly per side via the green lamp wire.

---Yellow harness wire on the driver's side is for left turn and goes to the bright element on the lower light assembly via the green lamp wire.

---White harness wire on the passenger side is for right turn and goes to the bright element on the lower light assembly via the green lamp wire.

---Black wire on all joins with the black harness ground.

Good luck!

Jeff

edwardb

02-01-2017, 07:40 AM

Jeff beat me to it, and provided the needed details. Your brake wire to both bright elements gives the turn signal bright element a path to light the second bulb. With the standard harness, you can only light one at a time. I put the brakes on top, turn signals on the bottom.

Jazzman

02-01-2017, 10:36 AM

Thanks guys! I was pretty sure that was going to be the answer. It does make sense. I sort of wondered when I combined the brake and turn wires if that would cause issues. I should have listened to the little voice in my head. (No, not the little voice that says it is always time for Pizza! NO It is not time for pizza NOW, it's 8 am!! HUSH! I am trying to work!!) :o

Edwardb, i believe you chose to use LED inserts from Watson's Streetworks on these lights. After seeing them, do you feel they are significantly brighter? Is there any change to the wiring if I decide to use them? I have some stuff to return to Watson's anyway, so I was debating just exchanging the parts I am returning for the LED inserts.

edwardb

02-01-2017, 08:10 PM

Edwardb, i believe you chose to use LED inserts from Watson's Streetworks on these lights. After seeing them, do you feel they are significantly brighter? Is there any change to the wiring if I decide to use them? I have some stuff to return to Watson's anyway, so I was debating just exchanging the parts I am returning for the LED inserts.

Yes, I have a full Watsons's Streetworks lighting package in my build. Their red and amber 1157 LED's, their LED headlights, and their solid state flashers. Everything is now wired and working. Just finished today. Your first question, yes the 1157 LED's plug directly into the same socket as an incandescent 1157. Yes, they are brighter than the incandescent bulbs. I don't know if you would consider it significant, but definitely brighter. The other thing that's noticeable is they light instantly at full intensity. That's a normal LED characteristic. Incandescent bulbs have a slight ramp-up when they light. Probably that's part of the impression of the LED's seeming brighter. I put LED 1157's from Advance Auto in #7750. I don't remember the brand. Just what they had on the shelf a year or so ago. The Watson's lights are much brighter than those. I compared them side-by-side. All of the above is about the 1157's. The LED headlights in the new build make the stock halogens in #7750 look yellow and dim. Huge difference there.

Jazzman

02-02-2017, 01:07 AM

It was pretty simple to fix my error from last night. I clipped the extra purple brake light wire out of the rear lights that I had mistakenly attached in the same location as the turn signal. Now all four weatherpacks have three wires in each one. No overlap. And the good news is that it worked!

Wiring the PS front of the lights proved to be almost a repeat of the rear. I had to split the ground wire into two, one big one for the headlights, one slightly smaller one for the running light. The running/turn/ground set was put into a three way weatherpack just like the rear lights: Running on "A", ground in the middle on "B", and Right Turn on "C". The headlights, though slightly larger wires, were installed in similar fashion: Low Beam on "A", ground in the middle on "B", and High Beam on "C".

Wiring up the DS front light plugs proved to be much more complex than any of the other three corners. All these things had to be taken into account in this same area:

1. Headlights, low beam, high beam, and a large ground
2. Running light, Left Turn signal, ground
3. Driving light, running light, ground
4. Horn power, ground
5. lights under hood, one positive, one ground.
6. a consolidated ground wire accumulating all the grounds together at one point and attached directly to the frame.

Getting these 14 wires all set to their correct lengths was the easy part. Accumulating 5 large and small ground wires and bundling them into a ring terminal proved much more challenging. Suffice to say I started with the large wires and split outward to the smaller ones until I had all the ground wires that I needed. I can't really wire up the headlights yet because I don't have large enough weatherpack terminals for the largest wires. I will have to order a few of those. The running lights on the left were wired up just like the right and the rears. The Horn is all there, I just have to trace the wires and link them up to the horn relay and ultimately the horn button.

The Driving light and under hood wiring proved to be the next big challenge. There are two wires in the Front harness that I will not need to use in their originally designed form. It is quite handy to have them there, and to have them already hooked up to the necessary relays. The Dark blue wire that was originally designed to power the fan will be re-purposed to power the driving lights. The Dark Blue wire goes down the front harness to a 30 Amp fuse, perfect for the driving lights. The other side of this fuse goes to the Cooling Fan relay. Full power is fed out of the cooling fan relay to the Dark blue wire. Incoming power to the relay is already fed off the main battery feed directly from my switched bus bar. Here is where it gets tricky . . .

The front harness also has a green wire marked Fan Thermo switch. Since I don't need to feed the fan, I also don't need to use the Thermostat wire. I will re-purpose this green wire to power the under hood LED lights. I still need to find some sort of switch for these. I was planning to put in a mercury switch so the lights would come on automatically, but I am thinking that is a bad idea because the lights would be on anytime the hood is open. This could become a problem if the hood was open all day at a car show. Of course I'm not sure how much current two 8 LED strings will pull. I'm thinking of putting in a switch inside the engine compartment that can be turned on when needed. Still working on that.

Returning to the green fan thermo wire from the front harness: That wire goes back to the cooling fan relay. When it enters the relay, there are two green wires attached at that same point. The second green wire, also marked fan thermo switch, goes up the main harness, makes a u-turn, and goes back out the Sending units harness that currently goes into the engine compartment. My plan is to use the green wire that currently goes into the engine compartment to connect to the driving lights switch. When the switch is closed, it will trigger the relay, pushing full power through the fuse to the driving lights. I plan to clip off the second green wire at the relay, the one that goes out the front harness, and extend this wire to whatever length is necessary to feed power to the under hood LED lights. By clipping this wire right at the relay, it will completely sever the green wire from receiving power from the relay. This should be fine, because the under hood LED's draw very little power. I am going to check with Watson's Streetworks to find out how much they draw, but I suspect it is minimal. The critical trick is making sure I clip the correct green wire, so as not to render the relay useless for the driving lights!!

Here we go!!

Jazzman

02-02-2017, 04:28 AM

I cut the right wire! The green fan thermo wire from the front harness is now available to be used independently, (it is not hooked up, just loose above the fuse panel), and the green fan thermo wire from the relay is accessible at the top behind the dash. I know this needs to be connected into the switch that I have for the driving lights.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63559&d=1486026494

I applied power to the green wire to the relay, hoping the driving lights would come to life, but no joy there yet. I am going to have to spend a bit more time analyzing the wires coming into and out of the relay. More on this tomorrow. It's too early in the morning now to think that hard!!

I spent quite a bit of time figuring out how and where to hang the horns. After trying several unsuccessful and more complicated scenarios, I opted to simply use the rectangular bracket that came with the horns. I hung them from the inboard side of the front frame rail. I needed the clearance to allow the hood trusses to pass by the horns without interference.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63557&d=1486026494

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63558&d=1486026494

At first I tried to connect them in series. Based on the "dying goose" sound they made, that is clearly NOT the way to wire them. I rewired them to be in parallel, and HOLY SMOKE ARE THEY LOUD!! I didn't expect the stock horns to be that good. Where were these things when I had a Harley?!! They will do a great job of getting attention.

Jazzman

02-04-2017, 01:14 AM

Success! Big strides today in the process of getting the wiring done. I started by wiring up the Tangent driving lights and getting a weatherpack connector on the end. The tangent lights have good ways to route and retain the wiring. I chose to put all the wires inside a piece of the small convolute tubing.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63615&d=1486185685

The female side of the driving lights harness was already hooked up, so I plugged it in. Remember that I am using the Dark Blue fan power wire, the fuse for the fan, and the fan relay to power the driving lights. It was my assumption (I now know incorrect!) that the green wire for the fan thermo is a positive lead. In other words, I expected that when I applied power to the green fan thermo wire that the relay would be triggered and the lights would go on. This was not the case. After studying the relay, I began to speculate that this green wire was in the same location as the ground wire on other relays I had seen, location 86. To test this theory, I just touched the end of the green wire to the frame. The driving lights sprang to life! Yeah!! From here all I had to do was to connect the blue wire from the driving light switch to the green wire from the relay, and the black wire from the switch to a ground. I hooked it up with wire nuts. It worked! I went back and fully connected the wires with compression couplers and shrink covering. The driving lights now work at the push of a button. I had to learn to think of the circuit in reverse: the power is always available to the relay, but the relay is only triggered when I push the driving light button to connect it to ground.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63617&d=1486185686

I just set the driving lights up there so I could see if they were working as expected. In this photo you see just the running lights working. It is sort of hard to tell, but the Tangent lights have a secondary blue light. I have hooked them up to the running lights circuit. When the driving lights are turned off, you can see the blue hue. However, they are pretty dim, so I am going to look for an LED replacement for all four of the bulbs in the driving light bar. You can also tell the running lights are working because the right front running light can be seen hanging off the hood truss. Again, I just wanted to be able to see it while I was sitting in the drivers seat working on the wiring.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63614&d=1486185685

I was pretty proud of my accomplishment. I used an existing circuit, with an appropriate fuse, a pre-wired relay, and the right size wiring to power an entirely different piece of the puzzle. I was toasting my genius with a long pull on my bottle of water, when I realized one problem: The fan power relay is a part of the "Battery " section of the RF fuse panel. Thus it gets power even when the ignition is turned off. The driving lights will come on even when the car is completely turned off! Hmmm. It's not a huge problem, but it certainly opens me up to Murphys law: If a driving light can be left on to drain your battery, it will be left on!!

I moved on to the headlights. I found a very helpful diagram from Wilson's Streetworks which showed how to wire up the four wire and five wire relays in a series to connect up the headlights:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63616&d=1486185685

This really helped me to figure out how everything for both the High and low beams, as well as the dimmer switch and the master switch, all get connected together. The only problem I encountered initially was that the "black" wire from the 4 pole relay is actually "white" on my relay. All the other colors aligned. I initially connected all the various wires with wire nuts just to be sure it would work. It did, sort of. For reasons I could not initially identify, the low beams were on all the time, even when the ignition was off. (A problem, perhaps??!!) I took a closer look at the wires on the 4 pole relay. All were in the locations I expected except the white one. Instead of being at location 87 where i expected it to be, it was actually at location 87A, the center post location. I quickly figured out how remove the spade connections from the relay, moved the white (should have been black!) wire over to location 87, and voila! The headlights only came on when the ignition is on. No photos of that yet. I have the Watson's Streetworks LED headlights, but I have not wired them up yet. I have to order some larger Weatherpack connector pins for the very large size of the headlight wires. I was just working with test leads.

I now have the running lights working at all four corners, the driving lights working, and the headlights as far as they can go until I wire up the new headlights for weatherpacks. My list of wiring tasks in getting shorter:

1. Hook up all the wires from the Russ Thompson turn signal system to the RF harness wires.
2. Figure out how to get power from the oil pressure sending unit to the gauge using the existing Coyote wiring harness wires.
3. Figure out how to hook up the fan light to tell me when the fan is running
4. Decide if I am going to install a stereo at this time, order all the parts, and get it put it. I am leaning toward doing it, though I am concerned I won't be able to hear it well.

There are probably more items for this particular checklist, but I can't think of them at the moment.

Jazzman

02-04-2017, 01:37 AM

January/February in Scottsdale is Car Show heaven. Next weekend there is going to be yet another car show, this one in Fountain Hills, the Concours in the Hills car show. http://www.concoursinthehills.org/ It is a benefit show for the Boys and Girls Clubs in the greater Phoenix area. The local Cobra club was contacted to be the anchor of the show. They will have a Cobra gunship helicopter there, and they wanted to surround it with the land-going versions of the Cobra. I had planned to attend, but earlier this week the leader of the Cobra Club put out a request for additional cars to really make the display pop. Clearly, mine is not quite finished, so I had no plans to take it. However, taking a page from Edwardb about showing off the Cobra under the skin, I contacted the Cobra club and sent photos of my car. Appearanlty they felt that this might be very interesting for the show attendees to see. Now I am checking my to-do list to see what I should get done before I take the car out to the show. I am not going to get too crazy about it, but I don't want anything that someone might hurt themselves on. I am very excited to show it off, even at this stage. If you are in the area, please come by and look me up. I shouldn't be too hard to find: I am pretty sure I will be the only car there without a body!!

Jazzman

02-05-2017, 11:56 PM

The goal today was to get the seats bolted down. Since I have to drive it next weekend, I want to have it as "together" as I can. I know that I will have to remove all this stuff to put in the carpet. I began by attaching the inside seat belts to their respective locations. A 1/2" drill and a bit of persuasion, and they are attached. Those are really substantial bolts that Simpson provides. No worries of them breaking.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63692&d=1486355313

To get maximum leg room, the seats should be mounted flat on the floor as instructed in the FFR Manual. However, since I am vertically challenged, i have a bit of wiggle room with the ergonomics. I decided I would be markedly more comfortable if the seats were angled back just a little bit. I decided to add 1 1/2" of 3/4" square channel under the front of the seat. I cut two lengths of 3/4 square channel to length. Each was long enough to support the square frame on each end.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63689&d=1486355311

I drilled holes at 1.5" and 7.5" from the outside of the square frame for some 3.5" long 3/8" bolts I had purchased just for this purpose. I drilled both support bars simultaneously.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63691&d=1486355313

I then marked where the seat should go, drilled the holes, and bolted it into place . . . you really don't believe it was that easy do you?!! The first hole I drilled was not at 7.5" from the outside, It was about 8.75". When I drilled this hole through the steel base plate, it was too close to the 4" round frame rail. Duh!! I tried to miss it, but didn't move far enough away. Back to the drill and drill press. I drilled a second set of holes, punched them through, and the front bolts were ready. Or so I thought. I had measured twice, but appearantly I needed to measure a third time. When I got the front holes fixed in place, the seat sat about 1/2" forward of it's optimal location. I carefully enlarged the holes so the seat could slide rearward. It looked good, so I moved on to the rear seat bolts.

It looked to me like it would be a good idea to have at least one of the rear bolts go through the 2" square channel under the rear half of the cockpit floor. I wasn't too keen on having both rear bolts just attached to the .040 Aluminum sheeting, even if it did have Thermotec liner on it! After a bit of figureing, I found that I could put one bolt through the side rail of the seat, and it would be line up perfectly with the 2" square channel. I drilled the holes in the back half of the seat frame, one at about 7.5" from the side, the other directly above the square channel.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63685&d=1486355307

remember that the seat pictured is the PS seat. The DS seat will be exactly opposite of this. I had to englarge and adjust the seat holes just a bit to get it all to line up correctly and bolt down as it should . When I finally had it where I wanted it, I bolted it all down. It wasn't as perfect as I might have liked, but it all worked out in the end. It just took longer than I expected.

Jazzman

02-06-2017, 05:44 AM

JB Weld may be very good for many uses, but clearly bonding aluminum is not it's designed use. I must have had a brain burp when I decided to use this fine product to attach the hidden mounts to the back of the dashboard. I caught the corner of one of the attaching 90 degree aluminum pieces and popped it off. I have, and have used many times, the 3M Composite and Metal bonding adhesive. For some reason I had it in my mind that it was ONLY to bond metal to Composite materials. Turns out it is just as good to bond metal to metal as well. I should have used it in the first place. It was surprisingly easy to pop off all the rest of the mounts by hand. Glad I went to the effort of replacing them now. It did provide another opportunity to adjust slightly the positioning of the dashboard.

I wrapped the dash frame hoop with wax paper where the adhesive might squeeze out. I screwed the aluminum angle pieces through the wax paper and tightened them into their appropriate position. After applying the 3M bonding adhesive to the face of each angle mount piece, I clamped the dashboard exactly where I wanted it. The adhesive is supposed to cure in three hours, but I left it alone for 18 hours. This morning I remove the screws holding the mountings in place. The dashboard came away cleanly. There was almost no squeeze out at all. Best of all, the pieces were bonded cleanly to the back of the dashboard.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63690&d=1486355312

I pulled out the Russ Thompson turn signal system and worked on fitting it. I had to enlarge the opening for the steering shaft slightly to allow the turn signal shaft to fit through the dashboard. Easily done with die grinder and a carbide cutter. The Russ Thompson directions say you can cut down the length of the tube by about 1/2" to adjust fitment. In order to fit the steering wheel as closely as possible to stock FFR location, I decided to trim off about 3/8". With that done, the system fits together perfectly.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63682&d=1486355305

I pulled out the shoulder harnesses to fit them and add the attachment point for the anti-submarine belt (the one between your legs). At first I just bolted the piece directly to the floor. However, I found that I the belt itself was also tightened to the floor, making it impossible to adjust the length of the belt. I disconnected the bolt, and added two thick washers between the attachment piece and the floor. This provided the necessary space to allow the belt to be adjusted.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63684&d=1486355307

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63683&d=1486355306

The Simpson shoulder harnesses are the real deal!! They are plenty long enough to go around someone of my . . . more substantial countenance!! They are also quite the system to put on. Certainly much more complex than your usual daily driver seat belt. But you surely will be held in place.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63681&d=1486355304

wareaglescott

02-06-2017, 06:41 AM

Nice progress!
Posting this one pretty late/ or early! 45 minutes before I woke up this morning. Even with the time zones Im wondering if you ever sleep. haha

R Thomas

02-06-2017, 09:41 AM

Thanks for all the great pics and text that go along with them. Nice additions to the manual and food for thought on mods for my own project.

valin

02-06-2017, 02:35 PM

Jazzman

02-06-2017, 04:23 PM

Hey Kevin! It was great to meet you down at the Barrett Jackson show. The build is looking awesome! That color that you have finally decided on will look gorgeous. Great choice! Will the stripes be black, or more of a dark grey?

Great meeting you as well. I hope you come back next year to the B/J Auction. It is quite an event, isn't it!! If I can find the color, it will be great. I have talked to the company that made that car, and they readily agreed to tell me the color brand and codes. However, They clearly have more important things to do, and thus far have not gotten back to me. I have called twice and been told the same thing: "Be glad to, let me get your phone number . . ."

It looks to me like the black stripe is more a dark grey pearl almost to black. Whatever I choose it will be a pearl, and will probably not be a "Pure" black, but will be almost black. Certainly darker than the candy apple red on the rest of the car. I just hope I can find the base color. I never could have imagined how difficult it is to find just one red, nor how many different shades of red there are!!

I'll try to order up a bit of better weather the next time you come down!

Jazzman

02-11-2017, 11:40 PM

Note to self: A Roadster will not drive up onto a 23" tall trailer using 60" ramps. Yesterday I borrowed a 14,000lb capacity equipment trailer from a friend of mine. At 19 feet long, it had plenty of room. However, when I went to drive the car up onto the trailer, that drated frame height caught almost immediately on the edge of the trailer. I tried several variations of approach angle and trailer to curb offsets, but that car was not going onto that trailer.

I needed to get the car on the trailer because I was scheduled to take it to a welder to have the rear legs of the roll bars welded into place. I called to tell the welder that I wouldn't be on time, but they told me no problem, they would be there all day. I returned the large trailer (a 90+ minute round trip). During the drive i called some of my mentors to see if they had suggestions. Edwardb came through for me again by suggesting I rent a trailer from Uhaul. Uhaul's car trailers are 14' long, but only 17" off the ground, and the center area is open: fewer items to hit the frame, oil pan, and bell housing on. It also has 6' ramps. The suggestion was also made to get some 10' long 2x10's to add to the ramps. A quick trip to Home Depot, I am the proud owner of two flat trees! I quickly returned home to get the car on the second trailer. I got it all set up, and thankfully the car went right up onto the trailer without a hitch! YEAH!! 12:30pm. Good. Plenty of time to get over to the welder.

That was when the phone rang. The welder told me that it was getting too late in the day to start my welding project, and it would be about a 3 hour job. We are talking about TIG welding the circumference of two 1.75" stainless steel tubes. When the welder was at my home, he told me it might take about 90 minutes to do the welding. I know virtually nothing about TIG welding, but even 90 minutes seems like a lot of time to go around two 1.75" tubes. So now the job has grown to a 3 hour process. Allow me to translate: "It is friday afternoon, and I really don't want to work that hard this late in the day. I don't really care that you will have to rent the trailer for an additional day. Too bad." The welding will be done at 6am on Monday. :(

Today was exciting. I left the house, trailer and Roadster in tow, to attend my first car show as an exhibitor. I met up with 28 other Cobra's to drive together to the Concours in the Hills show in Fountain Hills. Fountain Hills was built about 40 years ago as a rural but accessible community to north Scottsdale. Today both Scottsdale and Fountain Hills have grown to the point that you can no longer differentiate where one city ends and the next begins. The centerpiece of this community is a large park with a manmade lake and one of the largest fountians in the world. It really is a very beautiful location for a show. This charity fundraiser for the Boys and Girls Clubs has grown to an enormous event. There were over 600 cars in the show this year. The 28 Cobras lined up in a chevron formation leading toward a Cobra helicopter gunship parked at the end of a penninsula! That is a serious piece of hardware!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63901&d=1486872018

I was blessed to have a location under a large tree, so we had shade to sit in virtually all day. My parents joined me at the show. Mom read and dad carved under the shade of the tree. I only sat for a few minutes all day!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63899&d=1486872016

The show was spread all around the lake and on multiple levels of the rolling hills surrounding the lake. The organizers had done a very good job of laying out the car collections. There were distinct areas for Cobras, Lamborghini's, Porsche, Jaguar, BMW, . . . I am sure the rest of the show was laid out in similar fashion, but that is as far as I got before I had to return to my car. The show opened at 10am, but there were very large crowds looking around well before the emcee announced "Gentleman and Ladies, start your engines". It is an overwhelming wall of sound to hear 28 Cobra's all fire up simultaneously!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63898&d=1486872015

My car was the only car I saw that was partially completed. I was nervous about that, but I needn't have been. Response was very positive. I talked all day long to people that have built or dream to build their own Cobra. I was able to extol the virtues of the Factory Five Racing Kit to many interested customers. I think I will contact FFR and ask for a couple of dozen brochures that I can have on hand at these shows. Quite a few people asked me for information, several asked if I worked for FFR. (I guess that's what I get for wearing an FFR cap!!) The response to my car was universally positive. (Clearly those that didn't like it were polite enough to walk off to the next car before they made disparaging comments!!) Everyone I talked to loved the attention to detail, loved the engine, many said they expected to see the completed car here next year. (They will not be disappointed!)

It turned out to be an expensive and somewhat frustrating process to get the car to the show, but once there, it was an entirely enjoyable experience. Beautiful weather, light breeze, picturesque location, lots of great cars, like minded car nuts to talk to. Many made positive comments about how much they loved the Flip Top, how convenient it is, how unique it is. One other Cobra owner wants to pull the body off his MKI and do the Flip Top modification this summer. It really was a great day!

I'm exhausted!!

Jazzman

02-12-2017, 05:41 PM

This post is entirely personal, please indulge me. In 1982, I was introduced to the amazing labyrinth that is Jazz and Jazz fusion by the great Al Jarreau. His touchstone album "Look to the Rainbow (Live in Europe)" met me where I was emotionally. His soaring vocal range, amazing rhythm, and effortless joy in his music spanned the range of all my young emotions. It moved me to investigate the broad range of jazz/soul/pop/R&B that were Al Jarreau's influences. I was blessed to see him in concert six times, each more moving than the previous. My eldest son and I were lucky enough to see one of his concerts in Palm Springs last fall. It was a memorable opportunity to see my son finally understand the joy that was Al Jarreau. (He is wonderful on a recording, but truly amazing live!!) Long after the events occurred, I discovered that his birthday is only one day before mine (albeit many years before!!) and he and I both gave our son's the same name. I desperately wanted to meet this man, but sadly never had the opportunity. I truly believe there is some sort of a musical connection between us.

And today, the music died.

The "most technically gifted performer in jazz fusion today" passed away at the age of 76. I am "Jazzman" today because this amazing vocal Jazz man created musical art that reached my soul. God's blessings on Mr. Jarreau for the hundreds of musical gifts he left us all.

If you have no idea who I am talking about, here is a sample of his genius, recorded live in Germany in 1976.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rsVGnIgR5tk

(and now back to our regularly scheduled build thread!)

SSNK4US

02-12-2017, 09:13 PM

My two cents... I'm an avid music lover, everything from Tool and Godsmack to Glenn Miller and pretty much everything in between.... probably even more then cars... and that's saying a lot. I had the opportunity to see Al live in nov 2015 (after a 4 plus hour drive) and it was truly a moving and amazing experience. I understand your comment about the day the music died.... but I hate seeing the words. His wonderful magical musical genius will always live on in our hearts and minds....
Rest In Peace Al.... he will be missed

Jazzman

02-12-2017, 10:54 PM

Goal today was to get dirty! Goal achieved!! It is time to trim the front and rear roll overs where the body pours over into the cockpit. Jeff "Da Bat" Miller had specified what he wanted me to do (and not do!!) before I deliver the body into his hands for paint. He instructed me to trim back the rolls to the point where the mold ended. You can't really make it out in the photos, but on your own you will see there is a slight change of angle just before the edge is trimmed off. I laid a tape line to show me how far to sand the edge back.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63945&d=1486955446

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63946&d=1486955447

Sanding the edge back was easy with the Die grinder, but you had to be very careful not to oversand. It was a little like power carving. A smooth and steady hand with light pressure won the day. Just as I was about done with the rolled edges, my die grinder bound up and stopped working. Here is what I saw:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63942&d=1486955444

I'm not sure why that ring came loose, but it took a bit of encouragment to get it completly off. It had cross threaded just a little, but not enough to do any irreparable damage. Once I got it open I decided to see if any other damage had been done. The gears that mesh to turn horizonal power into vertical rotation had some scuffs where they had not quite meshed perfectly. Again, not enough to destroy them.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63941&d=1486955444

I cleaned it all up, checked all the threads, checked that the shaft was well lubricated, and slowly put it all back together. Some of the threads were standard clockwise, some were reveresed counter clockwise. Once I mastered which ones were which, it all went together well. I made sure to tighten completely the fitting that had come loose. It is working fine now.

I needed to trim up the wheel well lips to their appropriate width. After consultation with my mentors, it was decided that about a 5/16" to 3/8" lip seemed about right. They are supposed to be thin, so I opted for the 5/16". I used a square with a sliding base to lay a consistent 5/16" line onto the lip with a fine point sharpie pen. I slowly carved back the edge with long slow strokes of the die grinder until I achieved a nice, smooth edge. Then I laid in a smooth layer of HSRF filler to the back side of the lip. I will let "Da Bat" decided how he wants to round over and feather these edges together.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63936&d=1486955441

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63937&d=1486955441

I drilled the holes for the rear lights. Nothing special there, by the book. I was going to drill the hole for the fuel inlet, however I do not have a 3.5" hole saw. I will tomorrow!!

Dave Howard

02-13-2017, 12:21 AM

I used a belt sander with coarse 50 grit to get the front and rear roll over down to the required size. Pulled the body on the front lawn on a nice warm summer day and was done in 5 minutes. No mess in the garage

Jazzman

02-17-2017, 02:21 AM

This week has gone by much too quickly! I talked to "Da Bat" on Monday or Tuesday. (I told you the week had gone quickly!) He confirmed he should be ready to begin my bodywork and paint in about 30 days. I quickly began making a laundry list of all the things I had to get done before I deliver the car to him. After putting it in priority order, I started working through it. The list is still too long, but I am slowly plowing through it. We shall see if I can get it all done in 30 days!

Remember last Friday when the welder did not have the time to weld up my roll bars because it was noon, they close at 2:30pm on fridays, and he now believed that my job was a three hour job? Monday morning at 5:55am I showed up at his shop. He didn't arrive till 6:05, but Ok, close enough I guess. By 6:25am he was finally ready to begin the job. He tacked the rear bar to the front one, then removed both from the car to finish the complete welding job. At 7:05am he was done with both roll bars. Job done in 40 minutes, not three hours! Oh well, they are done.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64130&d=1487314259

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64129&d=1487314258

They will probably not get polished until the body is at "Da Bat Cave".

Since the hood was installed a week ago, the lowest end of the outboard elephant ears has been rubbing the exhaust headers. I decided I just could not ignore the problem, so I had to re-do my first works on the attachment points on the inside of the hood. I first used a hacksaw to cut a separation between the upper and lower section of the mounting rail. I heated up the bonding adhesive to make it release. Just a couple seconds with a torch was enough to loosen up the cement. Then I removed the lower end of the rail, being careful not to damage it because it will be reused. I cleaned up the aluminum, and sanded off the remainder of the adhesive on the inside of the hood.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64128&d=1487314258

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64127&d=1487314257

I trimmed off 1/4" of the bottom of the hood so that it would slide right by the exhaust headers. I feathered that cut into the side of the hood creating a smooth transition. I used the same process to rebond the bottom section of the attachment rail that I had used origionally. I drilled holes through the body and used bolts and nuts to hold each piece in place while the adhesive sets up. I hope this is the last time I have to bond anything in this manner. I have enough of the two part bonding cement, but I only have one more mixing nozzle to go on the end of the caulk-like dispenser tube.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64125&d=1487314256

This time I was careful to set the attachment rail back from the edge of body to allow the elephant ear to nestle back into the hood to allow a smooth corner where it needs to slip by the exhaust headers.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64124&d=1487314255

I did buy a 3.5" hole saw to cut the hole for the fuel inlet. I spent a few minutes finding the center point of the available space, and drilled the hole. You know what? It looks like a hole! Its a fine hole, but not particularly photogenic. One more item checked off the list.

Jazzman

02-17-2017, 02:41 AM

I have a number of body related items that i have to check off my list:

1. drill holes for both roll bars
2. drill holes to attach the body to the bottom of the frame, install rivnuts into each hole, and install bolts to hold the body in place.
3. Install the doors. See if they are even close to fitting.
4. Attach the trunk.

In order to do all these things, the body had to go back on the frame. My bride and I have gotten really good at installing and removing the body. It only took us about 5 minutes to get it back on there. Thankfully the hood meshed right back into the body, the gaps are the same as they were the last time it was installed. (most a bit too tight, the center of the hood at the rear perhaps just a bit too wide. I will let "Da Bat" deal with that if it becomes an issue.)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64122&d=1487314254

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64121&d=1487314253

I had a bit of an issue with the PS hood latch attachment point. Because of the way it has to be attached, It has a tendancy to bend out of location. I am going to have to re-examine how it is attached and possibly make an adjustment to how it is attached. More on that later.

I adjusted the body and got it right where I wanted it to remain. I spent the rest of the evening trying to install rivnuts on the bottom of the frame. It shouldn't be that difficult a job. I have a good rivnut setting tool, but I only can get the body about 14 inches off the ground. This is just barely enough to allow the arms of the rivnut tool to swing together. I am drilling upward into the frame, but doing it with the drill only inches from the floor. There is just not a lot of leverage that can be applied that close to the ground. It only serves to reinforce my decision to get a two or four post lift before I do another project like this. There is not much to see because of where the rivnuts and bolts are installed. I put five pair of these into the PS frame, spaced equidistantly. It applies plenty of rigidity to the body on that side. I ran out of energy before I could attack the DS.

carlewms

02-17-2017, 06:14 AM

Jazzman,

It has been awhile since I have been on the forum ... so I really enjoyed going back and catching up on your fine work.

Thanks for all the details.

Carl

wareaglescott

02-17-2017, 07:36 AM

Looking good Kevin!
Clock is ticking on that color decision ;)

WIS89

02-17-2017, 10:46 AM

Kevin-

The details are coming together nicely! I know it is going to look great with some fresh color on her!

Not too much left to do before you make the trip to the Bat Cave. You must be stoked!

Thanks for the updates, and I look forward to seeing your choice of color(s).

Regards,

Steve

Jazzman

02-17-2017, 12:04 PM

I look forward to seeing my color choice too!! If I only could make one!! Down to three combinations:

Candy Apple Red with Black Stripes
PPG Electric Blue Pearl with Ice White pearl stripes
Black Pearl with phantom silver stripes

I have found that polling my friends is useless. If I ask 10 friends what they like, I get 12 opinions!! However, you all are more attuned to this particular car. Want to place your vote? feel free. I will take any input I can get at this point!!

Jazzman

02-18-2017, 09:55 PM

Installing the roll bars turns out to be a slow and tedious process. I took a lot of photos, likely more than you want to see. Since I can only include seven photos per post, This will be split up into a couple of posts.

Before the roll bars could be installed, I had to be sure that the body was fully attached and could not move. I installed rivnuts at five location on either side of the car so that I can us 1/4"x20 bolts to attach the body. Working underneath the car with only inches of additional space for the rivnut tool, it was a slow and difficult job. It is done, however.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64216&d=1487470213

I am installing twin roll bars. I like the look, and my wife threatened me that she had better get a roll bar or she wasn't riding in this rocket!! (I admit it, she intimidates me!!) I decided to use the 1.75" Breeze roll bars because a) I like the height and lay back better than the FFR originals, and b) in my humble opinion, the 1.5" FFR bar are too small a diameter. To my eye, they look a little spindly. Because of the different diameter, and the slightly laid back design, the original holes marked on the body are close, but are not in the right place. I talked to Mark at Breeze, and he said the holes for his bars needed to be just a little bit rearward of the originals. He said the outboard holes need to be 1/4" back from the orignial FFR mark, and the inboard holes should be about 3/8" back. It turns out he was pretty darn close. (I know, what a surprise!!)

I started by trying to figure out where to drill the outboard holes. I drew grid lines over the circles marked by FFR. I put a work light right on top of the gridlines, and looked at the underside of the body.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64214&d=1487470212

I used the tube from the roll of paper towels as a surrogate for the bar inself. I cut the roll off so it was long enought to reach the back side of the body. By looking from the bottom of the body, I could line up the tube and identify where on the grid lines I should cut the hole. This worked quite well for the fore/aft location, not quite so well on the left/right side orientation. I could only see the tube from the side of the car, not the from the back. I went back to the top and drew on an approximate circle using the points i had identified from the underside. Using the motto "check twice, cut once", I checked three times to be sure I had lined it up. I then used the 1.75" hole saw to cut the hole. I used the long adapter pipe that actually goes on the rear leg to go down through the hole to see if my hole lined up with the angle of the attachment pipe on the frame. I measured the distance from the frame to the body, and factored in the lenght of the un-bent section of the roll bar. It appeared that the outside legs of the roll bars will actually go straight into the frame mounted fitting. The bend occurs almost exactly where the leg will go through the body. Therefore, the hole should be straight above frame mounted attachment point.

It turns out that I had to use a barrel sander attached to my drill to open up the hole and move it inboard, toward the side wall of the trunk. I have decided to use the trim rings around the outside of the roll bars. Now that I am in the process of installing them, I am really glad I made this decision. I gives you a good amount of room for error. Without the trim rings, you have to be perfect on all six holes! I am one hole in, and It is also crystal clear that I am not going to be perfect on even one hole!! I used the trim ring as a template to see how far I could open up the hole and still have the trim ring fully cover the hole. This worked very well. It took many iterations of 1) slde the pipe into the hole, 2) mark where the hole needs to be enlarged, 3) remove pipe, 4) sand the inside of hole up to the marks you made, 5) repeat. When the first hole was done, it turned out that the left/right alignment of the FFR mark was about 1/8" inboard of correct, and 1/4" forward of the correct location. Pretty close to Mark's 1/4" prediction. I repeated this process for the outboard hole on the DS. Two holes down, four to go.

I made the assumption that the Frame mounted mounting points are in a straight line. It had appeared that way to me, but it was an assumption at this point. (It turned out to be a correct one.) Now that I have two correct, fixed points, I used string to mark points where the other two, inboard, holes had to go.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64212&d=1487470210

It turned out that these points put the inboard holes about 1/2" back from the original FFR marks. I used a similar method of placing marks on the top of the body, placing a worklight about it, and confirming the location from the bottom with a paper towel tube.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64206&d=1487470204

More measure twice, mark the body, be sure it is right.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64209&d=1487470207

I cut the first inboard hole and began the process of making sure the front legs slid smoothly through the holes. This involved multiple iterations of install/mark/remove/sand/repeat.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64211&d=1487470208

I wanted to be sure that the front legs were going to fit without binding before I began working on the rear leg hole. This is when I confirmed that I had to deal with another issue before I could move forward with installing the roll bars.

Jazzman

02-18-2017, 10:30 PM

When I installed the roll bars without the body, I found they required a lot of heavy pulling to bend them slightly to fit over the frame mounts. Now that I am trying to work under the body, that pulling process is much more difficult, perhaps impossible. I had to bend the roll bars so that they naturally fit onto the frame mounting points. All I needed to do was to bend stainless steel about 1/8" to 3/16". Easy . . .right?

My superhuman strenght is waning, so I needed some mechanical leverage. I pulled out two bar clamps laying them in opposite directions on my bench. I placed hooked the screwed ends over the ends of the bench. The opposite ends of the clamps were adjusted so that they fit just inside the legs of roll bar. I place wood pads next to the bars and soft cloths over the bar clamps so as not to damage the roll bars.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64199&d=1487470198

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64198&d=1487470198

I measured the width of the legs before I began bending them apart from each other.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64197&d=1487470197

It I didn't want to bend them too far, so I cranked down the screw of the bar clamp to move the legs about 1/2" at a time. This 1/2" stretch seemed to actually bend the bar about 1/16" after the tension was released. I tested the bar to see if it would now fit. Nope, I had to repeat the process two more times. On the third time the legs slipped effortlessly onto the frame mounted points.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64195&d=1487470196

Now i can move on to the rear legs and the holes they will go through. The adapter pipe for the rear leg has to be slipped up into the rear leg before th bar is set into place. There is no room to install it from the underside. Yesterday when I was preparing to do this, I made the mistake of sliding the adapter pipe too far up into the rear leg. I could not pull it out. I finally got it to slide out after using some WD-40 sprayed between the two pipes and pulling with a hooked tool on the bolt hole that will ultimately attache the adapter to the frame attachment point. I did not want to repeat this mistake again. I drilled a hole for a 1/2" long self tapping metal screw. I put it on the back side of the pipe so it will not be seen when permanently installed. I put a screw into the hole. This will keep the adapter pipe from sliding too far into the rear leg of the roll bar, and it will keep the adapter pipe from sliding too far down the frame mounting tube until I want to permanently attach the roll bars. Two problems killed with one solution!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64194&d=1487470195

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64193&d=1487470195

Jazzman

02-18-2017, 11:00 PM

I learned a lot cutting and shaping the DS rear leg hole. Short version: the hole is cut, the roll bar fits, and trim ring will completely hide the fact that the hole is just a bit wider than it should be because I had to sand it in multiple directions. Rather than bore you with all the minor mistakes I made learning how do to it right, I am going to fast forward to the PS rear leg where I used all that I had learned on the first one.

I set the PS roll bar into place in the front two holes. (This one didn't need any bending to fit correctly.) I pushed it down on the forward frame tubes just far enough so that the rear leg touched the body. I used a square to draw marks on the body directly below the outside edges of the bar at the point where the rear leg will have to pass through the body. the mark at the very tip of the rear leg is important because that will move straight down. The hole you cut must allow the very tip of the rear leg to slide through. That is why that rear mark appears to be so far away from the bar.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64186&d=1487470190

I removed the roll bar, and then used the trim ring as the template to draw the hole needed. The edges of the hole are supposed to pass directly through the marks made on the body in the previous step.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64184&d=1487470189

Clearly the rear leg will go through the same general area that FFR had marked, but it was further aft and outboard than FFR's marks would have indicated. (This is the problem I ran into on the DS!) I used the hole saw to cut out the center area, then used the barrel sanders to complete the opening to it's indicated size. I intentionally left the hole smaller than the maximum size of the trim ring. If I was off a bit, I still had some material to remove to correct the opening before I ran out of space under the trim ring. I think I had to install and remove the bars three times to mark and adjust the openings so everything would fit just right. It is finally done! Both bars are installed!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64183&d=1487470189

Thats a big one off the to-do list!!

edwardb

02-19-2017, 07:56 AM

Nice job on the Breeze roll bars. They give a good look for all the reasons you mentioned. Ingenious idea on adjusting the spread with bar clamps. Haven't seen that before. I stuck mine in my floor jack with some blocks of wood. That worked too but you're right it takes a lot of spread to make a small amount permanent. Looks like you have your cut-outs nice and tight. You mention repeatedly you have the trim rings to cover up the gap. True enough but not the outer edge. There needs to be some body underneath the mounting holes for the bolts holding them on. Looks like you'll be fine. I assume the holes in the roll bars are for third brake lights? Nice.

Jazzman

02-20-2017, 12:41 AM

There needs to be some body underneath the mounting holes for the bolts holding them on. Looks like you'll be fine. I assume the holes in the roll bars are for third brake lights? Nice.

Yes, there is still plenty of body underneath where the trim rings will go. Thanks for the comments on the holes in the roll bars. Yes, those are the i.e.427 lights. Frankeski did a great job on them. I can't wait to see them installed. That will have to wait until after the bars are polished and the body is painted.

A client and friend of mine who is also an avid car restorer has an excellent relationship with a gentleman who owns an automotive paint supply house. My client has received wise counsel from this gentleman on paint selection on all of the dozen and a half or so cars he has restored. My friend is going to introduce me to this expert in hopes he can help me select the specific colors I seek. I watched several episodes of "Overhaulin'" today while I was working in the shop. I love what Chip Foose does! He talked a little about his paint colors, and the fact that he has a line of BASF colors he has specifically chosen. I went to the BASF website and found the colors. They are all really beautiful. Chip did a promo video for the BASF paints while he was at SEMA a couple of years ago. He talked about how he may spend months considering what color to paint a car, then do dozens of sprayouts to get just the right color. If it takes an expert like Mr. Foose that long to pick a color, I don't feel quite as bad. I don't, however, have his budget for dozens of sprayouts! He also said he waits until the car tells him what color it is supposed to be painted. Apparently my car is either obstinate or mute, speaks a language I do not, or I am not listening!

I checked a lot of small items off the punch list today, but not much that is photo worthy:

1. I trimmed up the front wheel wells to match the rear ones.
2. I installed the trunk lid and latch system according to the FFR manual. I did not trim the trunk, though it clearly needs it. I have left the doors and trunk to Mr. Miller to trim out.
3. I reinstalled one of the fuel line straps that had gotten bent up slightly in the ill-fated trailer debacle. No damage to the fuel line, just easier to get at the straps now while the car is up off the ground.
4. I received a package of proximity switches from Watson's Streetworks. They are nice magnetic switches that are designed to be installed into the door frame. and edge of the door. Unfortunately, since the door frame and the edge of the door don't really meet in the conventional way on these cars, the switches have to go back.
5. I used up the last of my HSRF filling in the back side of the wheel well edges. Unfortunately, I have one more wheel well to go. Oh Amazon $.$.$.
6. I trimmed the body around the exhaust pipes to provide enough clearance.

I still have to deal with the PS attachment point for the hood latch, specifically the 2" square U-bolt to which the latch attaches. It is only threaded up each leg to within about 1" of the top of the "U". I need it to be threaded all the way to point where the 90 degree turn begins.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64256&d=1487569937

I need to install a nut on the outside of the PS footbox sidewall before the U-bolt goes through the aluminum sidewall and the steel stiffening plate.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64253&d=1487569936

I have not found anywhere to buy a 2" Square U-bolt, size 3/8x16, that is threaded right to the very end of each leg. I have a die to thread that size bolt, but the only die wrench I have cannot be used because the handles will hit the u-bolt leg that is not being threaded at that moment.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64255&d=1487569937

I finally found what just might work: a hex die of the same size. I can use an open end box wrench to turn the die around the bolt, and re position the wrench whenever necessary so as not to hit the other threaded leg. I ordered the die ($6, not too much downside here!) and will try it when it arrives. More on that later.

Lesson to be learned: Do not sand off the marks where the holes for the windshield are supposed to go through. I am not quite sure how I will figure out where the holes should go.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64257&d=1487569938

"Da Bat" said he could relocate them and cut them, but I would really like to have them cut before I deliver it to him. He will have enough to do!!

Jazzman

02-22-2017, 04:19 AM

Under normal circumstances, the front overriders and/or bumper are attached through the body to the frame by 3/8" bolts. However, when you decide to do a Flip Top your overriders or bumper cannot be attached to the frame. They need to be attached to the body only. Under the best of circumstances they are decorative and not particularly functional. When only attached to the fiberglass body, they really become decorative only. They need to be solidly attached, but there is no metal to attach them to. If I were to do it again, I might see about building an attachment to the trusses that would also provide a metal attachment point for the bolts for the overriders and bumpers. The trusses are all powdercoated. It is too late to make such a modification on this build. I have to figure another method.

I realized that I did not have a method to attach the overriders when I was trying to adjust the hood relative to the body. My seam at the center top of the hood is wider than the space at the outside edges at the top. The side seam at the bottom is also wider toward the rear than it is at nearer the front. It is not too significant, certainly nothing that cannot be fixed by "Da Bat". I just want to get all the lines as straight as I can before I deliver the car to him. Looking for how to tighten up the seams led me to realize that without the bolts at the front holding the nose of the hood, the entire nose of the car sits about 3/8" too low. Frankly you would never notice it if all the seams were straight. It is too subtle for the eye to see. I am still debating if it is worth the effort to raise the nose that 3/8". It could involve making some of the attachment holes more oval so that the hinge mechanism can be slid upward. It might also involve remaking and re-powder coating a couple of pieces, relocating slightly several holes to raise them up.

This brings me back to how and where to attach the overriders. The basic design provided by 2BKing is to carve a foam box to fit into the space behind where the bolts would go through and cover it in 4-6 layers of fiberglass for strength. It sounds simple enough, but this a very complex curved area to work in.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64300&d=1487750490

I began by gluing up two 3" thick blocks of structural foam 6" long.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64308&d=1487750494

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64306&d=1487750493

I used this tool to try to get a the shape of the space. I took measurements horizontally and vertically. I transferred the shape to the blocks of foam to get an idea of where I was going.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64304&d=1487750492

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64305&d=1487750493

I set to work with a knife to cut away some of the excess, then worked the blocks down more with the sanding station.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64302&d=1487750491

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64303&d=1487750491

After trying to form both foam cubes, attempting to carve them to fit the curves of the hood, I remember why I always hated trying to learn to carve from my father. He is quite good at it. I am not. The foam blocks fit, but are surely not a nice fit. I could bond the blocks to the hood with HSRF, allowing the HSRF to fill the spaces that are not correctly formed. I might do that. I might make one more attempt to carve the foam blocks. Or perhaps I can come up with an alternative method of forming the foam box. Gonna sleep on it.

myjones

02-22-2017, 07:51 AM

I began by gluing up two 3" thick blocks of structural foam 6" long.
I set to work with a knife to cut away some of the excess, then worked the blocks down more with the sanding station.

Jazzman
Love watching your thread,
The way you jump into each new aspect and conquer any obstacles gives me a nudge to move forward on my 33.
The foam blocks look like the answer to one of my projects on the 33HR. Care to share the source and any details on what type of foam works best?
Thanks
Dale
Hemi33

Jazzman

02-22-2017, 12:23 PM

Jazzman
Care to share the source and any details on what type of foam works best? Thanks
Dale
Hemi33

Thanks for following along, Dale. I still find it overwhelming that so many people seem to find my build interesting. Doing a project like this requires an attitude of "I can do it . . . I just don't know exactly how yet!" Learning and problem solving are some of the best parts of this build. Now get back out to the shop and do than '33! If I can do it, anyone can!

I will be happy to share whatever I can!! I am not enough of an expert to be able to speak with authority that this is "the best", but it was recommended by two people that have much more experience than I do. I know it works. The foam board is from Aircraft Spruce. Part #01-12800 H45 PVC FOAM Board 1"X32"X48", cost $76.75 when I purchased it. I think they may sell it in smaller sizes. For what it is worth, this is the same stuff I used beginning in post #258. The foam board itself is solid, but has very little structural strength in and of itself. The fiberglass layers over the the top of the foam are what really give it strength.

Depending upon how much you need, I might be able to just cut off some of the excess that I have and send it to you. PM me more details of your project and how much you need if you are interested.

MPTech

02-22-2017, 12:38 PM

Enjoying your thread as well, just caught up on your Rollbar installation.
Yes they are a bit of a pain to have welded, drill the holes, and install (I learned to wear leather gloves when I installed the back legs, after getting the body back from paint. That slide-in leg can give one hell of a pinch blister!!)
Yes they are a challenge, but I REALLY like them and they look even better after they are polished. Although my polisher cussed them out and had to upcharge me because they were difficult to hold and dangerous. After all the work, they are worth it and I've received several compliments on mine from other FFR owners that know the difference. Also like your additional lights installed in them. I went with the Russ Thompson trim rings and really like them too. Again, installation can be a challenge, especially of the rear legs. I had one trim-ring screw/nut that wanted to occupy the same space as the rear-leg bolt/nut.

Here's mine before they were polished and the interior was completed
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/MPTech/IMG_2382_zpsccc4956f.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/MPTech/IMG_2381_zpsc4cf3b83.jpg

That hood though. That is a piece of art and looks terrific. Nice job. ;)

jceckard

02-22-2017, 02:16 PM

Or perhaps I can come up with an alternative method of forming the foam box.

I wonder if it would work to throw together a quick mold clamped to the back side of the panel and use the low expansion spray foam that is used for insulating around windows. I bet even the normal great stuff would work if you leave one side of the form open to allow it to expand without pushing on the panel. You can always carve up the resulting block to flatten faces as needed. The only trick would be if the spray foam sticks to the panel or form. I wonder if some strategically placed plastic wrap would do the trick.

myjones

02-22-2017, 02:33 PM

I wonder if it would work to throw together a quick mold clamped to the back side of the panel and use the low expansion spray foam that is used for insulating around windows. I bet even the normal great stuff would work if you leave one side of the form open to allow it to expand without pushing on the panel. You can always carve up the resulting block to flatten faces as needed. The only trick would be if the spray foam sticks to the panel or form. I wonder if some strategically placed plastic wrap would do the trick.

I had the same thought, build a box form leaving the top open and spray it full. The box could be lined with a 1 gal ziplock bag for a bond break. Then cut off the overflow/top then remove the box, then cut away the bag and bond the piece to the body with HSRF. The spray it in a bag has been used on here before.
DB

myjones

02-22-2017, 02:47 PM

Thanks for following along, Dale. I still find it overwhelming that so many people seem to find my build interesting. Doing a project like this requires an attitude of "I can do it . . . I just don't know exactly how yet!" Learning and problem solving are some of the best parts of this build. Now get back out to the shop and do than '33! If I can do it, anyone can!

I will be happy to share whatever I can!! I am not enough of an expert to be able to speak with authority that this is "the best", but it was recommended by two people that have much more experience than I do. I know it works. The foam board is from Aircraft Spruce. Part #01-12800 H45 PVC FOAM Board 1"X32"X48", cost $76.75 when I purchased it. I think they may sell it in smaller sizes. For what it is worth, this is the same stuff I used beginning in post #258. The foam board itself is solid, but has very little structural strength in and of itself. The fiberglass layers over the the top of the foam are what really give it strength.

Depending upon how much you need, I might be able to just cut off some of the excess that I have and send it to you. PM me more details of your project and how much you need if you are interested.

Thanks for the info, it sounds like a proven product based on your references above. And thanks for the offer to pass along the leftovers. BUT;
I will probably need a whole sheet to thicken the 33 hood sides before I cut several long slots/vents into them. Once they are thick enough I will
over cut the slots by 1/8" all around and glass the edges so it has a finished surface inside the openings. Then glass over the engine side to finish
the look. I need to work up a shopping list for the first time fiberglass project and jump in feet first. That's what I did with all the fabrication for the
custom suspension and hemi install but the bodywork has me intimidated for some reason. Might be the hella mess it makes but I'll get past it. :)
Dale

Jazzman

02-22-2017, 07:12 PM

Thanks for the info, it sounds like a proven product based on your references above. And thanks for the offer to pass along the leftovers. BUT;
I will probably need a whole sheet to thicken the 33 hood sides before I cut several long slots/vents into them. Once they are thick enough I will
over cut the slots by 1/8" all around and glass the edges so it has a finished surface inside the openings. Then glass over the engine side to finish
the look. I need to work up a shopping list for the first time fiberglass project and jump in feet first. That's what I did with all the fabrication for the
custom suspension and hemi install but the bodywork has me intimidated for some reason. Might be the hella mess it makes but I'll get past it. :)
Dale

Sounds like a plan! Let me know if there is anything I can do to help. It does make a heck of mess, but in the end, it's worth it. Talk to 2BKing and MikeinAtlanta to talk to the real experts!

Jazzman

02-22-2017, 07:18 PM

Jazzman

02-23-2017, 11:33 PM

The solid foam blocks carved to fit the curves of the car clearly did not work. I discovered part of the reason: The two sides of the car do not have exactly the same curves. I needed some way to create a box that would conform to the curves regardless of the variations. I was pretty sure the best method would involve using spray foam that you can buy at Home Depot. This thought line was confirmed by several other forum members. (Thank you for confirming what I was thinking!) I went to Home Depot and read all the cans of spray foam. After consulting an employee, I confirmed that the Loctite brand spray foam has smaller, more consistent bubbles in the foam and gets harder than the other counterparts which are designed to expand and contract with heat. I purchased a can of the Loctite spray foam, $7.

I knew that I wanted a have an aluminum plate as the back of my bumper holding box. I started by creating two matching back panels out of 1/8" sheet aluminum, 2.5"x6". I drilled 25/64" holes at 2.25" on center for the bumper mounting bolts, centered both horizontally and vertically.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64368&d=1487909286

I ran the original bolts that had been holding the front of the car when it was delivered through the holes in the back plates. I did not use the even longer bolts that came with the overriders. I looked at how far out they would extend, and decided that I wanted the overriders closer to the body. Secondly, I wanted to use the stainless steel tubes that were on the shipping bolts both for looks and to create a solid attachment to the back plate. I tightened up the bolts so the stainless tubes were held tightly.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64366&d=1487909285

I created the sides of my box by taking custom curve measurements from one side of the body, and then made mirror imaged pieces of the box for each side of the car. I used very stiff file separators sheets for the forms. Largest side, the one that would be vertical and inboard, I taped on a wood tongue depressor to stiffen the side of the box.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64370&d=1487909288

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64369&d=1487909287

I taped the paper box to the aluminum back plate to for a complete unit

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64365&d=1487909284

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64364&d=1487909283

I then test fit the box and bumper bolts unit to see if it would fit correctly, centering up the bolts in the holes and allowing the bolts to sit level so the overriders will be vertical. It seems to work.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64363&d=1487909283

I made the other box in exactly the same way. This proved to be a mistake!

Jazzman

02-24-2017, 12:23 AM

The first box fit well and the bolts protruding through the front seemed to be at the correct height and placement. When I went to mount the second box, I discovered that it did not fit well at all, and the bolts protruded at an odd angle. I discovered that the paper box needed to be trimmed at the bottom to allow it to fit flush to the inside of the hood. Once I got that adjusted, the bolts had rotated to the point where they matched the original set. I could not figure out any way to measure the angle to confirm that they were correct, so I had to trust my eye.

I taped the boxes into place by wrapping the tape around the box and through the vent openings. I placed tape on the sides of the boxes where they meet the hood to attempt to contain the foam.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64361&d=1487909282

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64359&d=1487909280

I pulled out the can of Loctite foam. I started injecting the foam from the front of the hood through the hole that was closest to the ground. When the foam began coming out the first hole, I taped up the opening to keep the foam expanding inside the box. I then started injecting foam into the upper hole. I know you are supposed to inject less than you need and allow it to expand, but since I can't see inside the box, nor can I tell how much foam is coming out of the can, I filled up the box completely and just allowed the foam to continue to expand and come out of the top hole. It made a mess, but what can you do?!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64358&d=1487909280

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64356&d=1487909279

As it expanded and cured, it continued to push out through any open hole available.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64354&d=1487909277

I let the foam cure overnight When I returned to it this evening, I found the foam on the outside of the car to be completely cured and very solid. I began trimming the excess foam off the outside of the body and the box. It came off the stainless steel and the gelcoat pretty easily, but it was very well attached to the inside of the hood.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64355&d=1487909278

Jazzman

02-24-2017, 12:24 AM

On the inside of the hood, I trimmed away all the excess foam, and trimmed away the paper box sides. The outside most layer of the cardboard form material was stuck to the foam so it got left on there. This is when I noticed the difference in the way the right and left areas are formed. This is the DS box.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64353&d=1487909277

and the PS box. Note the difference in how the back plate sits. The DS plate sits parallel to the brake duct opening hole. This PS one sits at an angle. The bolts out the front, however, appear to be parallel to each other.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64352&d=1487909276

To confirm that the bolts were in the right place and angle, I removed the nuts from the bolts and attached the overriders to bolts. They look like they are perfectly aligned.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64351&d=1487909276

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64350&d=1487909275

It was now that I discovered something else interesting. I expected the stainless steel tubes to be solidly held in place by the foam. However, I found that my removal of the nuts had moved the tubes inside the foam. I then discovered that the foam was not completely cured on the inside. Now that I had opened up some air space, the foam continued to expand. I decided to stop doing anything on this assembly tonight. I will let it cure for another 24-48 hours.

There is one more test that this assembly has to pass: It must be able to remount on the frame. I will not try that tonight, perhaps tomorrow, but if not then, I will just leave it till Sunday. I am going to test fit the hood back onto the frame before I begin glassing in the box to build up its rigidity and strength. If the bolts for the bumpers hit the front of the frame, i will have to redo my first works again. I do hope this is not the case.

wareaglescott

02-24-2017, 05:50 AM

Great job coming up with a good solution to an uncommon problem. Will be looking forward to seeing the final install.

WIS89

02-24-2017, 08:35 AM

Kevin-

I like your solution with the expanding foam blocks! You have a whole build thread with inventive solutions to challenges you faced.

Not long now before she heads off to get her makeup on. I know you must be pretty excited! Keep up the great work!

Thanks also for sharing your progress. It has been great following along.

Regards,

Steve

Jazzman

02-26-2017, 07:24 PM

This bumper mounting problem is really kicking my butt! The more I look, the more dissimilar the right and left sides are. The hood is currently tipped up against a wall with the nose to ground. In this position, I kept thinking something didn't look right. I pulled out the old ruler, and discovered this:

Left Side: 4.5"
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64486&d=1488152766

Right Side: 5"
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64487&d=1488152767

The curvature of the edge of the nose makes it appear that I am measuring from two different points, but I assure you they are measure the same in relative terms. This particular measurement doesn't really affect my current project, but it certainly is indicative of why I am having such issues!

I put the hood with the foam boxes made in round #2 back onto the car. Fail! The foam boxes are too deep. They hit the frame. I marked the side of the box to show how far I should trim the boxes.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64481&d=1488152764

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64480&d=1488152764

The front of the hood is sitting a bit low, but raising it up would only make the problem worse. After marking the boxes, I remove the hood again and set it up against the garage wall. I removed the overriders, the bolts, and the washers. I took a sharp knife and carefully sliced between the aluminum backing plate and the foam, removing the plate. I then sliced horizonatally through the foam, being careful to cut all the way around the stainless steel sleeves. .

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64482&d=1488152765

I cut the foam away revealing the last 1/2" of the stainless steel sleeves. I used the die grinder with a new cutting wheel to cut off the sleeve flush with the foam block.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64488&d=1488152767

I trimmed the side of the foam box to allow a bit more space for the fiberglass to bond.

With the overriders re-attached, I moved the hood back onto the body to see if I had trimmed the foam boxes enough. This time the boxes and the bolt heads cleared the front of the frame. Off came the hood again. Now I laid the first layer of glass over foam boxes. It is quite difficult to lay glass over a three dimensional object and keep all the air bubbles out of it!. It is also difficult to get the glass to bond to the foam. We shall see how this first layer turns out. Unfortunately, I have now officially used the very last of my first gallon of vinylester resin. I will have to order more resin before I can put on the remainder of the six or so layers of glass over the foam boxes. . I wish I could just buy a quart of the resin, but I fear I may have to pop for another full gallon. Does this mean I have to do another car because I didn't come out even? :)

Jazzman

02-26-2017, 08:11 PM

I did get a couple of minor projects buttoned up today. I received the hex head threading die I had ordered. I am hoping that I can thread the remainder of the legs of the hood latch brackets so that I can thread a nut all the way up to the bend in the square u-bolt. With some cutting oil and a bit of elbow grease, I was able to cut the threads in each leg.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64478&d=1488152763

I was concerned that the un-threaded part of the leg looked more narrow than the threaded portion. It is. It was big enough to take the threads, but is not as deep as I would like. I think it will be good enough. I want to get a thin nut to put on the outside. I must have 2000 nuts of various sizes, but none that are this size and thinner than standard. Off to Ace!

I had orginally planned to make a custom nose cowling that would be permanently attached to the inside flange of the oval nose and fit snuggly against the radiator. I had hoped to have the paint scheme flow off the top right into this cowling. However, after looking at the space available, I decided that such a nose cone would a) be a lot of work, b) only barely be seen unless the car was upside down, and c) keep air from flowing across the entire radiator. I decided to use the aluminum panels that FFR provided for the sides of the radiator area. I wasn't enirely happy with the way the horns looked mounted anyway, so this gave me a different way to mount the horns. A few holes, a bit of "creative adjustment" and the horns are now attached to the outside of the DS radiator aluminum panel.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64492&d=1488152771

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64491&d=1488152770

I would have preferred to completely hide the wires, but there just wasn't a way to do so. You really will have to work hard to see them anyway. Go ahead, get on the ground and try to see them. I dare you!!! :)

Before I installed either side panel, I painted the top sides of the radiator tanks so that you would not see the aluminum showing through from the front nose opening. In this photo, I was considering just taping the area off and painting between the tape. I decided it would be better to just remove the side panel and paint the top of the radiator tanks.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64310&d=1487750496

I am almost out of things to do on the car until I either 1) take the car in to be painted and remove the body, or 2) remove the body now and have to reinstall it prior to taking it to be painted. Time is growing short, so I will probably just leave all the other wiring issues alone until I take the body in for paint. I still have to make the aluminum panel that will go at the bottom of the radiator. It has to be attached to the nose flange and has to stay out of the way as the hood opens. I think I am going to use the FFR provided piece, but trim off either end, and turn the piece upside down. By doing this, the bent edge of the piece will point downward and follow the angle of the lower edge of the radiator. I think it will simply come up to meet the radiator, then fall away from it as the hood is raised. I have to get the hood back on the car before I can confirm that this will work.

Jazzman

03-02-2017, 03:23 AM

Short update this morning. I'm still not happy with the results of my second attempt to create secure attachment points for the front bumper overriders. I have to get back to it quick, but for now have put it on the back burner. My last thought is to use HSRF to form a strong attachment point. I'm going to have to talk to my mentors about what to do on this.

Pulled the body off again to see if I could get the turn signals, headlights, and oil pressure wiring done. Didn't even get to the oil pressure wiring. Between combining the RF harness, the Russ Thompson Turn signal system, three Watson Streetworks relays, a Watson's warning buzzer, and three sets of non-integrated wiring diagrams, I am am lost. I am going to call Watson's and Russ tomorrow to see if I can get their clarification.

The punch list is getting short, but so is the time!

Straversi

03-02-2017, 10:18 AM

Your patience and persistence are second to none. I get tired just reading the things you are confronted with. Keep pushing forward. Hell of a build!
-Steve

Jazzman

03-02-2017, 11:27 AM

Thank, Steve! There are times where I feel pretty stupid, but this inanimate object is not going to get the better of me!! Some of the best things in life are the ones you have to struggle with. I do hope I am not boring those of you who are following along with all the minutiae.

Jazzman

03-06-2017, 03:20 AM

Yesterday my father came over. He is the one that taught me woodworking, and instilled in me the attitude that I can do whatever I set my mind to. He "needed help" fixing the top of my mother's cedar chest. It is 60-70 years old, and the old wood finally gave way. Now dad didn't really need my help, but because he was now in my shop rather than me being in his, he "let" me do most of the cutting and router work. He told me how proud he was of me, and told me how pleased he was that I got the opportunity to build the Roadster. Now that I'm an experience dad, I understand exactly what he means. Needless to say, I didn't get anything done on the roadster, but it didn't matter. I got to work with my dad! We have spent a lot of hours working together, but we still have fun! I really am very blessed!!

Today I checked a few more things off the list. I finally got the turn signals and hazard flashers sorted out. I had the wiring right, but missed one important point: You have to be pushing power through the flasher modules for the lights to light up! After checking the wiring, checking the fuse, spending far too much time tracing the grey flasher feed wire, I discovered that there was another (orange) power wire that feeds power to the third section of the fuse panel. (Someday perhaps I will understand why it takes three major wires to feed power to one fuse panel!) After I found that rogue wire, It was a pretty straight forward process to hook up the Russ Thompson turn signal system to the RF harness. The left turn wire on the RT signal goes to the left turn bundle of wires in the RT harness, Right turn wire in the RT signal to the Right turn bundle in the RF harness, and (this is the key!!) The black wire with the white stripe and green dots from the RT signal goes to the turn signal feed wire. (That part sort of eluded me for a while.) So now the turn signals all work! On to the Hazard flasher.

Power for the hazard flashers comes through the pink wire in the RF harness. In my case, this was connected to one side of a Watson's streetworks hot dot switch. The other side of the hot dot switch gets split into two wires and spliced into the right and left harness bundles in the RF harness. After connecting them up, i found that all the lights lit up all the time!! I had a back feed condition. I suspected I might have this issue because RT in his directions for the turn signal system discusses that this is a likelyhood. He suggests using a pair of radio shack diodes to force the electricity to only go one way. (I am told that a diode is similar to a one way valve for water. It only allows the electricity to flow one direction. That is officially all I know about diodes!)

I went to Radio shack and asked to buy two #2761661 diodes. They only come in packs of four! Reluctantly, I agree to buy four of these expensive buggers. I go to the counter. There are signs everywhere "20-50% off everything in the store". The nice gentleman behind the counter informs me that due to their sale, these FOUR diodes are going to set me back $2.07! Ok, that is, I think, the cheapest thing on this car!! He confirmed that I should install the diodes with the SILVER STRIP ON THE NEGATIVE SIDE. In other words, the power can come in the side of the diode with no stripe and go out the striped side toward the lights, but the power cannot come back through the silver striped side of the diode. Seems simple enough doesn't it. (Pay attention, that will become important in a minute.)

I come home and begin by clipping the wire that goes from the switch and is spliced into the left turn wires. I crimp fittings on both ends of the first diode. I crimp one end onto the incoming wire from the switch, and crimp the other end onto the outgoing wire toward the lights. Now with only two ends on a single diode, and only two wires to connect to those two ends, what do you think is the mathematical likelihood of putting the diode in the backwards on the first try? The mathematicians would say that it is a 50% probability, but they are clearly wrong. Murphy was a mathematician too, and it appear to be a 75% likelihood that you will install it backwards. So I clip it out, pull out diode #2, crimp attachment sleeves on either end, and install it again, this time paying very close attention to the direction of the little silver strip. I paid so much attention to that silver stripe that I forgot to slip the shrink sleeve material over it before I crimped it into place! Duh!!!

I moved on the other turn signal. I crimped sleeves on either end of diode #3, crimped one end onto one of the wires, this time I remember to slide on my piece of shrink sleeve material, and I crimp the other wire into place. Now given the math we did just previously, here is another quiz: What is the likelihood that I will screw it up a second time, putting the diode in backwards again?!! To save time, I will tell you the mathematical likelihood approaches 100%! Off it comes, and out comes diode #4. Now I understand why they package these things in little plastic baggies with "Pkg Qty: 4"!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64736&d=1488784210

I am still working on the front bumper mounts. (Yes, I have been told before I am obsessive!) I was not happy with the way the previous ones came out. I talked to 2BKing, and he sent me new photos and instructions of what he had done. It is much simpler and more elegant that what I was trying to do. I decided that I would not be happy unless I started again. I didn't like the fact that you would see the boxes I had made if you looked sideways in the front air intake oval. (Never mind that you would almost have to be laying on the ground in front of the car to see them!!) I tore out all that I had done before and used the die grinder to sand off the residue.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64739&d=1488784215

I had noticed before I did attempt #2 that the fiberglass at the left holes for the bumpers was much, much thinner than the glass on the right hand side. I decided I could not pass up the opportunity to build up the thickness of the glass at this point. I sure didn't want to have someone hit the bumper and crack the fibreglass. I laid four layers of fibreglass over this area.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64738&d=1488784213

This will pretty much double the thickness of the fibreglass in this area. It is still not as thick as the right side, but it is better. I will let it dry overnight. I have a set of front bumper grommets on order from **********. I am going to wait to have them to try attempt #3 to permanently attach the bumper bolts.

I talked to 2BKing today trying to find an effective way to attach these mounts. In the course of the conversation, he commented that he had mistakenly reversed the locations of the front and rear overriders. I commented that I didn't even know there was any difference. He said to look on the back of the overrider to the mounting plate. The rear plate sits pretty much flat inside the overrider, where as the front ones are set into the overrider at an angle. I had already unwrapped two of them, and they were exactly the same.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64734&d=1488784206

I unwraped the third one, exactly the same. Finally I unwrapped the last one, and it is significantly different.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64735&d=1488784208

I will give FFR a call tomorrow to see why I have three rears and only one front. (NO, do not insert your own joke here about my rear being the size of three!!)

My last task for this evening was to redesign and fabricate a new part for the hood hinge system. I found that I needed more vertical adjustability than 2BKing's original piece would allow. This is the piece to which the actual hinge mechanism attaches. The problem is that I needed at least one, if not two more vertical holes in the original piece, but there simply wasn't room. I cut two new pieces of 3/4" square tube, but instead of cutting them to 7.25" long as King had designed it, I extended it to 8.5". I placed the two mounting holes in one side exactly ask King had laid it out in his plan. (These could not be moved because there are three other parts that must be attached at these exact locations.) Then I marked where the bolt would go through one way, and marked the closest positions that i could drill holes on either side of this bolt going the other way. Then just for added adjustabilty, I drilled additional holes 1/2" above and below these points. I drilled corresponding holes at 3.625" OC below these upper holes. Now I have some serious adjustability to make the hood sit exactly like it should. (I hope!!)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64740&d=1488784216

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64741&d=1488784234

There is actually room for one more pair of holes even higher on the piece. Now that it is all installed, I wonder why I didn't add this one more level of adjustibilty. I will be surprised if I need it, but I probabaly should have done it anyway while I was drilling holes. If this works, I will have to remove these two parts again to have them powder coated while the body is being painted. OH well, what is one more powder coating bill!!

The bluetooth enabled stereo amplifier came in yesterday, and the two pairs of Polk Audio speakers arrived this afternoon. I really want to work on installing them. However, finishing the bumpers is more important at this point. The stereo will just have to wait. Wow, this has been a good, but long, day. Time for me to get some shut eye.

wareaglescott

03-06-2017, 06:36 AM

Based on the probabilities you mentioned with the diodes I would expect a 97% likelihood that you will need the additional hole in the hood hinge part!:p

Jeff Kleiner

03-06-2017, 06:45 AM

Always enjoy seeing your updates Kevin!

Jeff

edwardb

03-06-2017, 07:45 AM

After checking the wiring, checking the fuse, spending far too much time tracing the grey flasher feed wire, I discovered that there was another (orange) power wire that feeds power to the third section of the fuse panel. (Someday perhaps I will understand why it takes three major wires to feed power to one fuse panel!) After I found that rogue wire, It was a pretty straight forward process to hook up the Russ Thompson turn signal system to the RF harness.

The RF panel is like most automotive panels. Some sections are powered all the time (BATT FED), some when the key is in the accessory position (ACC FED), and some when the key is in the run or on position (IGN FED). The orange wire you mention is the IGN FED source. With no power on that wire none of the ignition circuits in the RF panel would be live including the turn signals. A little surprised you haven't run into that before. In a typical installation, the ACC FED and IGN FED are powered through the ignition switch. Since you don’t have a traditional ignition switch, they needed another source. Glad to see you were able to sort it out and get things working.

boBQuincy

03-06-2017, 09:27 AM

A couple of things about diodes: they drop about 0.6 V, not usually a problem with tailights and turn signals; they have a maximum current rating, again usually not a problem with tailights and turn signals; however...

Incandescent bulbs have a peculiar characteristic: they appear as almost a dead short circuit for a brief time (100 mS or so) after power is applied. This is due to the large temperature change of the filament between ambient and lit. A large incandescent bulb (headlight or even brake light) can draw more current than a diode can provide (even though the steady state is within the diode specs), leading to strange occurrences of blown diodes. The high inrush current can also overload switch contacts.

Power for the hazard flashers comes through the pink wire in the RF harness. In my case, this was connected to one side of a Watson's streetworks hot dot switch. The other side of the hot dot switch gets split into two wires and spliced into the right and left harness bundles in the RF harness. After connecting them up, i found that all the lights lit up all the time!! I had a back feed condition. I suspected I might have this issue because RT in his directions for the turn signal system discusses that this is a likelyhood. He suggests using a pair of radio shack diodes to force the electricity to only go one way. (I am told that a diode is similar to a one way valve for water. It only allows the electricity to flow one direction. That is officially all I know about diodes!)

I went to Radio shack and asked to buy two #2761661 diodes. They only come in packs of four! Reluctantly, I agree to buy four of these expensive buggers. I go to the counter. There are signs everywhere "20-50% off everything in the store". The nice gentleman behind the counter informs me that due to their sale, these FOUR diodes are going to set me back $2.07! Ok, that is, I think, the cheapest thing on this car!!

Jazzman

03-06-2017, 09:52 AM

boBQuincy

03-06-2017, 10:11 AM

Diodes can handle higher current than the steady state rating for a short time, with turn signal bulbs you should be ok. Digikey has some diodes for as low as $0.43, it is always good to be cost conscious! ;) Many older flashers used the resistance of the bulbs to detect a blown out bulb (and to go into rapid flash mode to indicate that). These don't work properly with LED lights.

Thanks for posting so much good information on your build! I hope to use some of it for my upcoming Gen 3 coupe!

boB

Interesting. Currently I am using incandescent bulbs. However, when I do the final install, I will replace these bulbs with LED ones. I hope their low draw will preclude this high influx of power. I sure don't want to have to reinstall those silly diodes again. I'm not sure I can handle the high cost! :)

I already have a solid state flasher for the turn signals. I was told I would need it due to the very low draw of the LED bulbs. I wonder if I will need a second solid state flasher for the hazards for the same reason. Hmmmm . . .

edwardb

03-06-2017, 10:33 AM

I wonder if I will need a second solid state flasher for the hazards for the same reason. Hmmmm . . .

Short answer: Yes. BTW, I've used those same diodes on three builds now. First one has been on the road for 6+ years. All still going strong. I think you'll be fine.

Jazzman

03-06-2017, 11:00 AM

Short answer: Yes. BTW, I've used those same diodes on three builds now. First one has been on the road for 6+ years. All still going strong. I think you'll be fine.

Darn! Those solid state flashers really aren't cheap!! Thanks, EdwardB!!

Jazzman

03-10-2017, 02:16 AM

I've been checking off minor items while waiting for critical ones to arrive in the mail. After finishing the turn signal and flasher wiring, I checked all my connections and performed a bit of tidying on the wiring harness. It will never be considered "neat", but it could be much worse. After that was done I put the dash back in place, reinstalled the steering shaft from Russ Thompson, and installed the removeable screws that hold the dash in place. I really hope I never have to get back there. Even if I do, I am not really sure I will be able to do much without removing the body to gain access to the top area. I wonder if I will grow to regret that organizational choice. Time will tell.

I cut into the rear turn signal wiring harness to splice in a weatherpack that will feed brake light and running light signal to the roll bar lights. This is a job that would have been much easier to do a) before the rear harness was fully secured in place, b) before all the sheet metal was installed, and c) before I had hand surgery! I am finding that my hand strength is coming back much more slowly than I had hoped. There does not seem to be any problems, it's just that my hands fatigue quite quickly. I am told this will improve over the next six months or so. (Ugh!!)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64886&d=1489128066

I wanted to protect the very thin wires that feed the LED lights on the hood trusses. I purchased some 3/4" square channel caps and drilled out the center of a couple of them. (The metal store where I have already purchased a lot of steel and aluminum actually surprised me when I went to purchase them. I picked up 8 of the caps, 10 cents a piece, and tried to hand the man a $1 bill. He chuckled, punched a few keys on his register, and told me to have a nice day! Certainly unnecessary, but a very nice gesture!) I ran a couple of pieces of the smallest convolute tube through the holes.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64879&d=1489128041

I then ran the wires coming out of the hood trusses into the tube and tapped the plastic caps into place. Ready to receive the Weatherpack at a later date.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64878&d=1489128035

(Sorry about all the sanding dust. I hated getting everything dirty again, but It had to be done!!)

I took yet another page out of EdwardB's book of tricks and replaced the brake light actuator switch. I, too, have been having issues adjusting the relationship between the brake pedal and the switch, and having the lights stay on when they should be off. I ordered up the same Delco switch that he used, #D885.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64877&d=1489128033

The actuator shaft is a bit longer than the standard switch, and the threaded barrel of the switch is also a bit longer than the original. Both of these factors make the Delco switch a much better fit for this particular application.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64876&d=1489128026

I ordered up a package of door edge guard. I needed a way to keep the upper and lower halves of the front elephant ears from grinding together as the hood is opened or closed. This stuff seemed to be well rated, so I gave it a shot.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64873&d=1489128008

I installed first installed it on the lower half of the ears. I decided to carry it over the top just for looks. Truthfully, nothing will hit the top, but it looks a bit better this way. I did not cover the channel that the truss passes through. I may try to do it later, but I am not sure there will be enough room after the truss comes down into that channel.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64875&d=1489128015

*** EDIT *** This turned out to be a bad idea for this purpose. The aluminum panels are much thinner than a car door, and the door guard doesn't stay on. It also does not stand up to the heat of the header than is right next to it. Don't get me wrong, it's great stuff for it's intended purpose. I put the extra material on my truck. It works great on my door edges. Just don't use it for this purpose.

Jazzman

03-10-2017, 02:53 AM

I got the call from the "Da Bat" that the time has come for the body work and paint to begin on my car. I have to deliver my car to him next Wednesday morning. Other than re-assembling everything for delivery, there is one last fabrication project that has been causing me great stress: The mounting of the Front bumpers. After multiple discussions with 2BKing, it was clear I had to . . . make sailboats!

I started by re-measuring the curvature of each side of the area around where the front bumper bolts will go. I cut out hard cardboard "sailboat" shapes to fit each area. They are very definitely not mirror images of each other! The curves are significantly different from each other. That is why they are marked right and left. They only work one way.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64887&d=1489128069

I used the aluminum pieces I cut in my second attempt to aid in correctly aligning the hole locations on the paper "boats".

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64888&d=1489128072

When my paper "boats" fit into the space over the bumper holes, I transferred the shape onto .040 sheet aluminum. After cutting the shape with tin snips, and drilling the holes for the bolts, I bent the aluminum "boats" down the middle to form the needed shape. (Of course I forgot to take a photo of these aluminum "boats", but you will see them in just a moment.

I had to wait until today to begin this process because I have been waiting on Finish Line Accessories to deliver the front bumper grommets that I had ordered. Please don't mis-understand, Finish Line was great. I ordered them on Saturday, they got the order on Monday morning, shipped them out late Monday, and I had them Thursday afternoon. They even double checked that my order would indeed go out on Monday. Great service! The grommets are a bit larger than the holes that FFR put in the body. Thankfully I have just the tool to fix the problem. I pulled out my 1" barrel sander that fits on a drill. My father got these about a thousand years ago! They sit in a box and hardly ever get used, but his was their moment to shine! The exact size of the grommet in one direction is 1", so the barrel sander was perfect in that direction, and the hole needs to be 1.5" long for the grommet. A few seconds of sanding, and the grommets are in.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64872&d=1489127999

I ran a long 3/8" bolt through the holes in the aluminum "boats". I then added a large washer on the back side of the aluminum, then enough of the stainless tube spacers to fill the space up to the bolt threads, threaded the entire set through the grommets from the back side, then another washer, then the nylock nut. I tightened it all up so the bolt were securely held in place and would be very stiff. With a bit of encouragement, the aluminum "boats" settled right into place, and the shafts of the bolts seem to line up perfectly.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64870&d=1489127995

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64868&d=1489127990

I attached three bungee cords to the front of the bolts. By applying inward pressure I solved several problems at once. This applied outward pressure on the back side of the body, pressing the bolts heads and thus the aluminum "boats" tightly against the body. By pulling slightly upward on the front of the bolts, it also applied pressure to keep the bolts level on the front. It is hard to tell in the photo, but the bolts look like they are parallel with each other, appropriately aligned with the nose of the car.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64866&d=1489127981

Finally, I started laying glass and resin. I mixed up three ounces of Vinyl Ester resin. I figured that would be enough to get one layer of glass on each side. I could then let them harden, and apply more layers after these are securely in place. It turned out that three ounces was just enough resin to coat three layers of glass. The left side "boat" has one layer of glass, the right has two layers. I will ultimately lay at least six layers of glass on each side to be sure they have more than adequate strength. I hope I can lay two layers of glass two times per day. If I can do this, these should be securely in place by Sunday.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64864&d=1489127950

I think the third time will be the charm. These mountings look much more secure, and much nicer than my first attempts. I think I will be able to get this done in time!

*** EDIT *** These did, indeed, work fine. However, if I were to do it again, I would make them even shorter so they sat even closer to the nose of the car. These do fit next to the frame, but just barely on one side.

carlewms

03-10-2017, 04:53 AM

Jazzman ... just love the detail on your thread... it is very helpful!

wareaglescott

03-10-2017, 06:25 AM

Jazzman

03-10-2017, 09:31 AM

Nice work on the front bumper Kevin. That is one of those things everyone else will look at and have no idea what it took to make it work. You can take great personal satisfaction with that solution.
Just curious, when the nose tilts forward how much does the bumper/overrider clear the ground by? Any pictures of that? Im guessing with the shape of the front end it isn't even close. How much will the lower opening clear by?

Thanks Scott. Tis so true about many of the customization items. Most won't know what it takes. But we do!! :)

I can't give you an exact clearance figure yet because I have never had the overriders installed when the hood is installed. But the magic of 2BKing's design is that when the hood opens, it doesn't just pivot on a single point like a door hinge. As the back of the hood moves upward, the nose pulls up and back so that it clears the ground by more than you would expect. If I have time I will try to put an overrider on there and snap a photo when the car is on the ground with the hood open. I don't know if I will have time before I send it off to paint. Short answer: It clears, and by more than you might expect.

Jazzman

03-13-2017, 07:27 PM

Lots of very small successes in the past three days. It has been a big push to get the last few items completed before I take the car off to the Bat Cave for paint. I leave tomorrow to trailer the car the 400 miles to Temecula. (Actually, I am using this as an excuse to go see my eldest son in San Diego!!) I will drive over tomorrow, deliver the car to Jeff on Wednesday, he can work his magic for 2-3 days, then I will bring the frame home and leave the body with him. Hopefully this is how it will all work out!

The bumper attachment points are all done, and have seven layers of glass on them. They are not going anywhere. I put the hood back on the frame. While there is enough space for the bolt heads, If I were to do it again (Which I most certainly will NOT!!) I would probably make the mounting points even thinner, giving just a bit more space between the hood bolts and the end of the frame. But it works. And it's done!!

Passengers Side:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64966&d=1489303977

Drivers Side:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64965&d=1489303976

WarEagleScott had asked how much clearance the nose and the overriders might have from the ground when the hood is open. This photo is with the frame 5.5" off the ground:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64961&d=1489303974

The upper tip of the nose is 12" off the ground, the lower tip of the nose is 8" off the ground, and the overriders will be about 7" off the ground at their lowest point. However, later yesterday afternoon I lowered the ride height on the front to 4" (the specified height) and this did reduce the clearance. The lowest point of the overrider is still about 5.5" off the ground. As I said before, it does clear without any problem.

A large amount of time was spent trying to figure out why the hood did not fit the way it was supposed to. Note to self: Don't make major changes after you have already taken and utilized complex mathematics!! I had taken all my measurements much earlier, but as I made two minor modifications that were working against themselves this time. The first was realtively simple, but it took me sleeping on it overnight before I realized the problem. I made new vertical attachment points for the hinges to attach to the frame. I had inadvertently attached the hinges on one side through hole #2 (working downward from the top) and through hole #3 on the other side. This tweaked the hood enough to keep it from sitting corretly. Once I realized this error, it was pretty easy to correct that problem.

The second issue took quite a bit more doing. The interior mounted perforated disk that held on the hood latches stuck out from the inside wall too much to allow the exterior of the body to bend to correct alignment. I had removed them some weeks ago in favor of a exposed bolt feature like is on the Daytona Coupe. I reattached the first latch, adjusting it to fit and secure the passengers side. The new latch was way out of the expected position. I adjusted one of the latches downward, but his left a nasty gap.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64964&d=1489303975

I began remeasuring again, and discovered that my attachment points on the body are not at the same height. The one on the drivers side is about 7.25" above the aluminum "teeth" that straightens the closure system. The one on the Passengers side is only 6.825" above. The attachment location on the Drivers side cannot be moved. There is the angled pop out in that area that gains you a bit more foot room The Passengers side attachment point could be moved. but would require some difficult surgery and possibly the replacement of the PS foot box outside wall. However, if I don't do it, the latch on the DS will be higher than the one on the PS. I had to drill out an entirely new pair of holes in the PS footbox wall. Unfortunately there was already one hold drilled, so i had to work around it. This actually put the attachment bar a bit too high, plus i now have two extra holes with nothing to fill them. I have not yet decided if I will succumb to my anal-retentive nature and replace this panel with a new one, or if I will be able to put up with rubber cap grommets in these holes. (I suspect I will have to make a new one or it will drive me crazy!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65015&d=1489448383

It took quite a while to get the latches all installed so the seams are as close to level as I can get them. I did finally end up with four bolts holding on each latch. (And yes, after this photo was taken, I did have to deal with the upper right hand bolt being out of place! I filled that hole, and re-drilled another hole that is directly on the line, directly above the lower bolt. It would have driven me crazy!)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65017&d=1489448384

With everything reattached, I am very pleased with how it all came out. The seams are as closes as I can get them, plenty for Jeff to work on, and the car looks and drives great! I drove another four miles yesterday. It is certainly a rush, and a good way to meet people. Most of them happy people who want to look at and talk about the car. A small fraction of them gave me a glare, but no hand gestures. All in all, a WIN!!

Jazzman

03-13-2017, 07:36 PM

Here is how the car leaves for paint tomorrow:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64959&d=1489303972

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64957&d=1489303971

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64960&d=1489303973

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=64958&d=1489303972

The hood/body seam came out very nicely. I will be interested to see how Jeff chooses to set the gaps. It's going to be fun!!

RR20AC

03-13-2017, 08:02 PM

Way more than I would have attempted on my first build. Nice job. Have fun down there.

wareaglescott

03-13-2017, 08:41 PM

Looking good! Where are you at on the color choice? Are you just going to surprise us all?

Jazzman

03-14-2017, 12:52 AM

Looking good! Where are you at on the color choice? Are you just going to surprise us all?

That decision is almost made. I will discuss it with Jeff Miller on Wednesday and finalize the color combination. I think the base color is selected. I have several possible choices for stripe colors. As soon as I know for sure. . . I may let you know!! ;)

carlewms

03-14-2017, 04:05 AM

Jazzman ... nice tease on the paint answer ... but even nicer looking car going to the Bat. Congratulations and thanks for sharing the journey.

Carl

myjones

03-14-2017, 07:56 AM

Kevin
Can't wait to see what Batty does with your car, I'm sure it will be very nice.
On those extra holes you are fussing about<> I suggest a nice thin SS rub plate big enough to protect the hammered finish and if that happens to
cover those extra holes that's a win win right ? :rolleyes:
Dale Berry

Jazzman

03-15-2017, 02:05 AM

myjones

03-15-2017, 11:17 AM

That's actually a really good idea! I will have to consider that. Thanks!

Don't know what's on the back side but I would be tempted to put a thicker plate back there to stiffen the panel around the latch.
You don't want that panel to fatigue and crack later on and if that stiffener happens to hide extra holes that's another win win.
Dale

Jazzman

03-15-2017, 06:55 PM

Don't know what's on the back side but I would be tempted to put a thicker plate back there to stiffen the panel around the latch.
You don't want that panel to fatigue and crack later on and if that stiffener happens to hide extra holes that's another win win.
Dale

You are correct. I don't remember the number of the post off the top of my head, but somewhere I have a photo of it. It has a 3/16" thick plate of steel on the back side, bolted with four (now three) separate bolts through the aluminum.

Jazzman

03-17-2017, 11:09 PM

The fog is dense at 5:30am in San Diego. Both literally and metaphorically, i left my son's home this morning deep in fog, not quite sure which direction I would go. The truck remembered how to return to the bat cave, but I drove on in silence contemplating my next move.

Two days ago i delivered my creation to Da Bat. I was not quite sure what his body language was telling me. He said little, though his experienced eye was evaluating every curve. He said to leave the car with him, and we will would talk on Thursday afternoon. I left but something about his demeanor was nagging at the back of my mind: what was he thinking? He called me on Thursday afternoon. He had worked on my car until 11pm on Wednesday, then more on Thursday morning. After evaluating the project, he had decided that it was more project than he wanted to take on. He was concerned that it would delay his delivery of his other customers cars.

By 7am I have picked up the car and am heading home. I have a long drive to think and consider my options. I called a couple of friends, who recommend a local custom paint shop that they feel would do an exceptional job on my car. I called the owner and explained the full story. He has done Factory Fives before, absolutely loves the Cobra, and is eager to see my unique flip top customization. He asks how soon I could let him see it. I decide to go directly to his shop since I have already rented the trailer and the car is already loaded.

Eight hours later I arrive at this shop. No less than five of his employees come pouring out to see my car. They want to know everything: how big is the engine, what drive train, how long did it take me to build it, on and on and on. They are car freaks!! I meet the owner. It is clear why he is so trusted by my friends: He knows his business, and immediately catches my vision for the car. He understands what I am looking for before I even explain it to him. He tells me the color I want before I tell him! He is excited to have the opportunity to do my car! We discuss the financial aspects of the project: he is quite proud of his quality work! However, it is quite clear from the work i see around his shop that he is well worth what he gets paid.

The fog has lifted.

wareaglescott

03-18-2017, 03:33 AM

Glad you got that resolved.
Quite interesting that he previously came to your house to see your project and agreed to it and then changed his mind after you incurred the cost and time to trailer the car to him and leave it there.
Sounds like things will work out nicely. I'm happy for you on that.
Now about that color....???

edwardb

03-18-2017, 06:38 AM

Wow, interesting turn of events. I'm surprised as well, but glad you found someone so quickly. Will be very interested to see the progress.

WIS89

03-18-2017, 09:58 AM

Kevin-

That had to be a gut wrenching couple of days!! I am sorry that you had that experience. I totally respect Jeff's opinion, and I think it takes guts to turn away a project. I think perhaps he did you a bit of a favor, although maybe it doesn't seem that way. If he tried to get it done quickly, so that he could continue to meet other promises, he might have ended up short changing you, and not met your quality expectations. A tough decision, and a tough thing to hear I am sure.

I am thrilled that you found another shop so quickly, and one that is so enthusiastic about working on your car! I hope their enthusiasm matches your build quality.

Good luck as you hit the final stages of the build, and I hope you are able to keep us updated. I can't wait to see her when she is finished!

Regards,

Steve

Jazzman

03-18-2017, 11:37 AM

Everything happens for a reason. I respect Jeff. He was honest, he does good work, and he has to balance his commitments like we all do. I truly believe it all worked out for the best. I wish Jeff nothing but the very best.

Jazzman

03-18-2017, 11:41 AM

Now about that color....???

When we get closer to laying on color, he will do several spray outs. This will be a multi layer candy job. So what color? We will just have to wait and see. :). Nothing is locked in at this point, neither color or stripe color/style. It's a blank palate.

Jazzman

03-26-2017, 01:54 PM

Minor delays after my adventure in CA. My hands are still hurting a bit, especially after working extensively with hand tools on the car. I decided to get a two month checkup with the hand surgeon. Short version: all is healing well, but the "invasion" of the surgery has brought on a minor touch of arthritis. Yet one more signpost on the inevitable road of life. I am puttered a bit, but have not done a great deal.

Don't dismantle your body buck until you are sure you are done with it! I had dismantled mine, but now I find I need it again. The paint shop doesn't have a rack suitable for a cobra body shape, so I told them I would just bring mine. I put it back together, and once again removed the body to place it on body buck. This time I screwed the bottom of the body to the frame of the buck. This will keep it in place as I am transporting the body and buck on the back of a trailer to the paint shop.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65633&d=1490541630

Everyone seems to agree that a stereo in these cars is something of a waste. I agree. You probably can't hear it well enough to justify its existance at 60mph. So what am I doing? Putting in a stereo of course!! I'm a music nut. What do you expect?!! I ordered up matching pairs of Polk Audio Marine speakers. After buying yet two more hole saws, 5" and 3.656", I cut the holes for the speakers. (No, I don't yet have every possible size, but I am really working on it!!)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65636&d=1490541632

6.5" for the rear wall:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65641&d=1490541635

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65635&d=1490541631

4" for the sides at near the floor:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65642&d=1490541636

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65640&d=1490541634

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65639&d=1490541633

Jazzman

03-26-2017, 02:10 PM

I ordered up a set of 4" cup holders from Amazon. They are 2" deep, stainless Steel, and look very nice.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65631&d=1490541629

However, after trying to fit them into the available spaces on the tranny cover, I decided that they are just too big. I looked again on amazon, and found a smaller version of the same thing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00911UWSE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I will wait to order them until I am already ordering another $25 of stuff. Cheaper that way.

I would like to start carpeting the car. I am waiting to talk to the painter to see how clean he will be able to keep the car when he is doing the final body work with the body on the frame. I will chat with him about that on Tuesday when I deliver the body for phase one of the bodywork/paint process.

edwardb

03-26-2017, 04:17 PM

I would like to start carpeting the car. I am waiting to talk to the painter to see how clean he will be able to keep the car when he is doing the final body work with the body on the frame. I will chat with him about that on Tuesday when I deliver the body for phase one of the bodywork/paint process.

I've done it both ways. Mk3 body work was done with the carpet completely installed. It turned out OK, but definitely took some time to get cleaned up. Mk4's one left completely bare and the other mixed. The latter is a good compromise. Some pieces are really easy to install with the body on. Like the cockpit floor, door sill pieces (really no choice there), transmission tunnel, and back wall. But down inside the footbox is way easier with the body off. That's what I would recommend. Footbox outside walls, front, and inside include under the dash. Do those before the body is on and your body will thank you. Plus since they're a bit shielded, won't get the brunt of the dust and dirt anyway. Similar comments for the trunk if you're planning to carpet it. Do the upper section and sides with the body off. Save the rest for body on. Easy enough to reach.

Jazzman

04-06-2017, 01:06 AM

Between home improvement projects, family commitments, trips, and saying goodbye to a great old dog, not much has gotten done in the past couple of weeks. After removing the body from the frame, I removed the trusses and packed it up safely. I transported the entire body to Kandy Shop Creations to let them begin preparing the body for paint. They will work on the underside first, ultimately applying a layer of rhino liner. They will work on the first block sanding of the top of the body. Before they return it to me they will also apply a coat of epoxy primer. That is when they will return it to me to put back on the body. After reinstalling everything for (hopefully) the last time, I will return the frame and body to the Kandy Shop for the final body fitting and ultimately application of color. The body has been there a week. I have not had time to even think about what, if anything, they might have gotten done on it. I might check next week, I might wait till the first of next month. I don't want to rush the magic!!

I am checking off minor items now. I still had not gotten the water temperature and the oil pressure gauges to work. I started again, tracing the wires from their sources and following them all the way to their termination. I discovered what I hope will be the issue: I had reversed two wires in the quick disconnect. I effectively had connected the oil pressure to the water gauge and the water temperature sender to the oil pressure gauge.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66097&d=1491456935

I reverse the grey and dark blue wires, and as soon as I get the exhaust pipes back on, I will check and see if that problem is eliminated.

Like EdwardB before me, I didn't think the raw tan leather didn't quite look right, so I decided to follow his lead and dye the leather black. I ordered up this stuff from Amazon:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66099&d=1491456936

Taped off the metal parts:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66098&d=1491456935

And layed on two coats of leather dye.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66100&d=1491456936

I haven't had the chance to go any further, so we will have to come back to that minor project.

I ordered a 36" long LED light strip to put inside the trunk on the underside of the arched frame rail. Not cheap, but quite bright and clean light. It also sticks really well!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66106&d=1491456939

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66105&d=1491456939

Jazzman

04-06-2017, 01:19 AM

I really felt that the hidden trunk support system was an aesthetically pleasing addition . . . or perhaps a removal since you don't have to see a support arm or use a broomstick to hold the trunk open! i ordered up the kit. It is quite elegant in it's simplicity. Each arm of the trunk hinge is attached to the front wall rail by a 50lb strut. The strut is attached to the front wall rail and the hinge arm with ball end pivot points. Simple and pretty quick to install.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66102&d=1491456937

One minor deviation is required from the provided instructions. The instructions say to install the ball end on the "outboard" hole of the attachment rail. However, this is only correct if you are using the older style hinge arms or the Breeze hinge arms. If using the stock FFR MKIV trunk support arms (which I did) you need to install the ball end on the "inboard" hole of the front attachment rail.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66104&d=1491456938

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66103&d=1491456938

I began installing the carpet following the instructions in the FFR manual. I used the Weldwood Outdoor Carpet Adhesive that several have recommended. It is stout stuff to apply, but it does allow a decent working time. It also stinks to high heaven, a gift which keeps on giving for days to come!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66107&d=1491456940

Jazzman

04-09-2017, 09:51 AM

I received some photos of the body work process from Kandy Shop. Looks like they are doing a nice job. I haven't seen it in person yet, but plan to this next week.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66215&d=1491748792

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66214&d=1491748791

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66213&d=1491748790

(Don't worry about the alignment on that one, its not attached to anything at the moment!)

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66212&d=1491748789

I was surprised to see the windshield holes covered up. I called Kandy Shop, and the owner was going to check on why that was done. They will re-cut the holes before I get it back.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66211&d=1491748788

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66210&d=1491748787

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66208&d=1491748574

It is great to see progress on this part. It is also nice to not have all that dust in my shop!!

Boydster

04-10-2017, 03:04 PM

After all the amazing work you've done, it's exciting to see it at this stage.

GoDadGo

04-10-2017, 03:19 PM

Good Luck Jazzman!

Still can't believe you had to invoke "Plan-B" for your paint work finishing solution.

Steve

Jazzman

04-10-2017, 04:39 PM

After all the amazing work you've done, it's exciting to see it at this stage.

It is, Indeed! I could have done a lot of the body work myself, but with all the other disruption that I have done to the body, I decided to leave it in the hands of someone more experienced. So far it looks like I will be pleased with the results. It will be fun to see how it evolves! Thanks for watching along!!

Jazzman

04-10-2017, 04:41 PM

Good Luck Jazzman!

Still can't believe you had to invoke "Plan-B" for your paint work finishing solution.

Steve

It was only "plan B" to me because I didn't know the real "Plan A" was to work with a quality local shop. No regrets!

Jazzman

04-26-2017, 07:17 AM

This mornings tome is written on my iPhone, and is written from a highly unexpected location. It is also not about our hobby and will explain my partial disappearance from these forums of late. (Feel free to hit the "next thread" button and skip it if you like.)

Two weeks ago my wife and I were looking forward to our now joint annual trips of 12 days of vacation in Hawaii and three days in Huntington Beach at the FFR Huntington Beach Cruise In! We had only thing we had to do before we left on this holiday : we had to get all our legal work updated and that required an attorney. Yes that boring stuff we put off, the wills ,the trust, the durable and medical powers of attorney, even the living will that no one wants to talk about. I won't be maudlin or belabor this point. They were all signed two days before we left for Maui. However, three days into our trip, they became far more important than I ever could imagine. For the past seven hellish days I have been in and out (mostly in) the Maui medical center attempting unsuccessfully to pass a kidney stone out of my system. They finally did surgery this morning, and I am much,much better now! That is what brings me both the time an the ability to write you at 2am Maui time direct from room 326, bed #1 in the Molokai east wing. (I just realized some on you east coast guys may read this with your breakfast cereals. I am really, really sorry about that!) I have done almost nothing for a week except be in excruciating pain and sleep. Now that I'm feeling better, even hospital dose Ambien can't knock me out. So I write. Read. Listen to some sweet jazz. Thank Mr Jobs for the iPhone.

I'm not out of the woods yet, but it's looking good. I still have the adventure of actually getting home ahead of me on Thursday. What is becoming quite clear is that it is highly unlikely that i will be at the Huntington Beach show on Saturday. I am truly heartbroken as I write this. I've been looking forward to it all year. Best of luck and safe travels to all of you that are going to be there. I will miss seeing you the most. Oh well. There's always next year . . .

Well I sure hope there will be for all of us, our kids, more car shows and cruise ins. But I sure was peaceful knowing that if God was done with me down here, I didn't have to worry about my bride and four great kids picking up the pieces of my life and moving on.

If you have any family to protect, have anyone you love and haven't gotten your medical and durable powers of attorney written , get it done. Today. Yep, call an estate planning attorney in your area, and get the wills and trust done. NOW. Yes, even the living will. If nothing else make sure your favorite car goes to someone who will love it like you do. Or at least be sure crazy uncle elvin won't ever get his greasy mitts on it!! Don't procrastinate like i did. Get them done, or updated if they are over five years old. I am happy that they were not really needed this time, but it was waaaay too close for comfort!

So now you know far more about me than you ever wanted to. And with that I will leave you with one final Aloha, because I don't think I am going to be back here for a while!!

Vette1972

04-26-2017, 07:37 AM

Jazzman,

Sorry to hear of your health problems on vacation no less. First a speedy recovery! Second an easy trip home. We have all followed your excellent build and hope you are able to resume that shortly. Best wishes to you and your family as you travel this path of life we all must tread.

Again, best wishes on a speedy recovery!

Len

P.S. Some of us on the East Coast are way past breakfast. :D

edwardb

04-26-2017, 07:43 AM

And here I thought you were just caught in the "waiting for paint" time warp! Sorry to hear about your medical issues, but mainly happy to hear you're on the mend. I haven't personally experienced kidney stones, but several in my immediate family have. They described it is probably the most intense pain possible. Sorry you had to go through that. Continue getting better. :o

P.S.S. Exactly. Breakfast (and coffee, the most important part) was hours ago...

wareaglescott

04-26-2017, 07:51 AM

Thank God you are back and improving! I was really feeling concerned about all those jokes I made about putting me in your will for the Cobra before you left!

GoDadGo

04-26-2017, 08:05 AM

First your finger issue (2015) & now kidney stones.
Man, I want to party with you Jazzman.
Hope you mend quickly.

Jeff Kleiner

04-26-2017, 11:27 AM

Heal quickly and completely Kevin!

Jeff

carlewms

04-26-2017, 12:35 PM

Jazzman,

While being sick anywhere is a real downer ... being stuck in a hospital in Maui is the King of the Real Downers.

Take care, don't over do it (like we guys sometimes tend to do) and we look forward to seeing you on the line in the future.

God Bless,

Carl

Straversi

04-26-2017, 01:47 PM

Wow, sorry to hear about that. Glad you are on the mend. See you in HB next year.
-Steve

stevie.nowonder

04-26-2017, 05:58 PM

Good to hear you are on the mend, Jazzman... was looking forward to meeting you in HB this weekend as a fellow builder in Phoenix. +2 on the living will/legal provisions. Lost my beautiful wife at 46 years of age due to cancer and she had the foresight to have everything set up properly long before she was ever diagnosed. I couldn't imagine the nightmare it would have been if she hadn't insisted on having these things all set up beforehand.

Jazzman

04-26-2017, 09:43 PM

2bking

04-26-2017, 11:12 PM

Hi Kevin, sorry to hear of your plight. I wish you well and pray for speedy recovery. Check back with us often and I look forward to seeing the next picture of the painted body and your smiling face.

WIS89

04-27-2017, 08:14 AM

Kevin-

So sorry to hear of your troubles, but so pleased that your recovery is on track! Travel home safely today, and get yourself well rested.

I am also sorry that your holiday was spent in the hospital. Being in paradise, and not being able to experience it must have frustrated you to no end -- of course, when you weren't in excruciating pain!

I look forward to reading your updates when you are able. Like many others, so happy that you are on the mend.

Regards,

Steve

Boydster

04-27-2017, 03:20 PM

I, too, have heard that can be the worst pain ever experienced. Glad you are on the heal and look forward to seeing updates on the build soon.

Al_C

04-29-2017, 10:30 AM

Kevin! I've been trying to get current on your thread and finally got to this point this morning. Of course, that was after I was hoping to meet you at David's BBQ last night. At least now I know why you were a no-show! Haven't had kidney stones, but I have had to deal with two hospital stays during my build, so at least I can partially relate. Get well soon!

valin

05-03-2017, 06:52 PM

Wow Kevin! I just was able to read this now. I am very sorry to hear about this, and I really hope things are going well for you now. Your build is looking great, and I am very much looking forward to your completion. Get well brother!

Jazzman

05-30-2017, 09:42 AM

Body work is slow, but steady. So far Kandy Shop Customs has worked 63 hours over nine weeks on the project. The exterior body work is just about done. Here are some progress photos from the past several weeks:

Doors and Trunk are done. The trunk needed almost no surface adjustment.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68348&d=1496155028

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68346&d=1496155028

Hood:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68350&d=1496155029

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68349&d=1496155029

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68353&d=1496155031

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68351&d=1496155030

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68352&d=1496155030

It is really looking nice. Very smooth curves. I hope that the epoxy primer will be applied this week. When that is done, the underside of will be addressed with bed liner.

WIS89

05-30-2017, 11:09 AM

Kevin-

I hope the health issues are all in your rear view mirror, and you are feeling great!

The body work is looking terrific! They look to be making nice progress. The front of the body has a really nice flow to it, and it suggests you did a nice job getting things all lined up, and properly loaded underneath; great news!! I bet you are at least a bit relieved.

I look forward to seeing the rest of the progress.

Regards,

Steve

Jeff Kleiner

05-30-2017, 11:12 AM

Do they have the chassis? If not I assume you'll be taking it to them to do the final fitting and shaping.

Hope you're feeling better and making great recovery progress!

Jeff

Jazzman

05-31-2017, 01:13 AM

Do they have the chassis? If not I assume you'll be taking it to them to do the final fitting and shaping.

Hope you're feeling better and making great recovery progress!

Jeff

No they do not have the frame yet, but they will for final shaping. They plan to do the outside to the point of the first coat of epoxy primer, then do the bed liner on the underside. They will paint the underside to color match the outside. This means a color choice is probably soon. Once the underside is done, I will take it all home and reinstall it on the frame for the last time. I will take the whole thing back to them for phase two, final shaping, final priming, and finally color.

Thanks for your concern! I am about 90% now, getting better every day. But it sure is hard to try to drink a gallon of water every day!! �� Now I have to catch up and find time to check a few final items off the punch list before the body is ready to be installed.

Jeff Kleiner

05-31-2017, 05:31 AM

Great to hear that you're clicking off miles along the road to recovert Kevin :)

Jeff

Jazzman

06-07-2017, 09:17 AM

I received some more photos on the progress of the paint process. The worst of the body work is done, and they have applied the coat of epoxy primer!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68711&d=1496843772

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68712&d=1496843772

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68714&d=1496843773

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68715&d=1496843774

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68716&d=1496843774

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68717&d=1496843775

I have been puttering along on the car. I have been working on installing the seat heaters. Since I planned to put the switches underneath the dash out of sight, I have had to cut and extend the wires that feed the switches. (Can you say "warranty voided"?!!) I have the PS switch done. I was able to use left over pieces of wire that were gleaned from the wiring harness. However, I am now out of pieces of wire that are long enough. I have tried to get 20 gauge wire at Home Depot, but they don't carry it in stranded form. (FYI Doorbell wire is 20 gauge, but is solid.) Since I am soldering these joints, I prefer the stranded wired. I haven't had time to go anywhere else to find the wire. I was sorry to see 1000 Radio Shack stores close as that company goes bankrupt. I clearly did not go there often enough to keep them in business, but occasionally they were the only source for certain little parts. Now they are gone. Online shopping is clearly the future!!

I have had to wait to install the remainder of the carpet until the wires for the seat heaters are in place. As others have done, I am running the wires for the seat heaters under the carpet right at the corner of the floor. Under normal circumstances I would only have to route the two power wires in that corner. But because I am also moving the switches forward, the four wires for the switch also have to be routed in the same area. I am still debating if the carpet will adequately cover and hide six wires. I think it will, but I am not sure yet. More on that later. If It won't, I will have to drill holes in both the firewall and the sides of the tranny tunnel to route the wires outside the carpeted area. I would prefer that for looks and access in potential repair, but I wish I had done it previously so that the wires would be fully integrated into the already existing wiring harness. i don't want one more wire cluttering up the engine compartment.

GoDadGo

06-07-2017, 10:23 AM

Looks Great!

Jazzman

06-07-2017, 10:32 AM

Looks Great!

It looks like a stick of butter!! Not my first color choice, even for primer. Oh well, it will all be covered up!!

GoDadGo

06-07-2017, 10:45 AM

It looks like a stick of butter!! Not my first color choice, even for primer. Oh well, it will all be covered up!!

More like Pancake Batter to me, so be glad that you don't see any Blue Berries in it.

David Hodgkins

06-07-2017, 12:01 PM

../
I have been puttering along on the car. I have been working on installing the seat heaters. Since I planned to put the switches underneath the dash out of sight, I have had to cut and extend the wires that feed the switches. (Can you say "warranty voided"?!!) I have the PS switch done. I was able to use left over pieces of wire that were gleaned from the wiring harness. However, I am now out of pieces of wire that are long enough. I have tried to get 20 gauge wire at Home Depot, but they don't carry it in stranded form. (FYI Doorbell wire is 20 gauge, but is solid.) Since I am soldering these joints, I prefer the stranded wired. I haven't had time to go anywhere else to find the wire. I was sorry to see 1000 Radio Shack stores close as that company goes bankrupt. I clearly did not go there often enough to keep them in business, but occasionally they were the only source for certain little parts. Now they are gone. Online shopping is clearly the future!!

I have had to wait to install the remainder of the carpet until the wires for the seat heaters are in place. As others have done, I am running the wires for the seat heaters under the carpet right at the corner of the floor. Under normal circumstances I would only have to route the two power wires in that corner. But because I am also moving the switches forward, the four wires for the switch also have to be routed in the same area. I am still debating if the carpet will adequately cover and hide six wires. I think it will, but I am not sure yet. More on that later. If It won't, I will have to drill holes in both the firewall and the sides of the tranny tunnel to route the wires outside the carpeted area. I would prefer that for looks and access in potential repair, but I wish I had done it previously so that the wires would be fully integrated into the already existing wiring harness. i don't want one more wire cluttering up the engine compartment.

Kevin, I have a good electronics shop near me. Let me know if you'd like me to pick up some 20 gauge wire for you. GRATIS amigo!

:)

Jazzman

06-07-2017, 11:27 PM

Kevin, I have a good electronics shop near me. Let me know if you'd like me to pick up some 20 gauge wire for you. GRATIS amigo!

:)

Thanks, David! I sure appreciate it. I have a couple of other places to check locally, but if I strike out, I will take you up on the offer. Thanks again!!

WIS89

06-08-2017, 08:38 AM

Kevin-

I think you will find some on Amazon. I found a decent selection of wires available there recently when I looked for a different project.

I hope this helps.

Regards,

Steve

Jazzman

06-19-2017, 10:04 AM

Finally got some time to work on the Roadster again. A couple days ago I found that my battery had set much too long without being charged, so I hooked it up to the trickle charger. (While dull, this fact will become much more important momentarily!) I found the wire I needed, and found the smaller size terminals that are used on only the negative side of the speakers. I needed four of them. With Shipping, I could buy four of them for $4, or 100 of them for $5. I have 96 of them left!! I needed to get the rear speakers hooked up to the amp so I could test it completely. The ground wire was in the way of where I needed to be working on the speakers. I flipped it out of the way to my constant companion "murphy". He proceeded to allow it to land squarely on positive terminal on the battery. This produced sparks and copious amounts of white smoke from the inside of the amplifier! Thank you "Murphy" for frying my amp! Another one is on order. :(

I decided to fish the front speaker wires down the square frame tubes so that they would be out of the way. It took a bit of creative tool technology to get them pulled through, but they are all in place, all safe and sound inside convolute tubing.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69163&d=1497883997

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69165&d=1497883998

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69164&d=1497883997

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69162&d=1497883996

I have to wait to install the front speakers until the carpet is in.

The seat heater wires are all in. In hindsight, putting the switches under the dash is convenient and invisible, but much more difficult to do than was really necessary. I had to cut the switch wires, extent them about three feet, then reattach them. I taped all the wires into their final locations so that the carpet could be installed over them.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69160&d=1497883995

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69166&d=1497883998

Now on to installing the remainder of the carpet.

Jazzman

06-19-2017, 10:19 AM

I moved on to the task of installing the carpet. I installed the piece that goes across from the engine compartment side of the DS footbox, across the area above the transmission, and then down the PS engine side Footbox wall. That took some doing, but I got it all in. The exterior carpet mastic works well, but it is a messy proposition. Keep lots of rags and paint thinner on hand to clean your hands, the carpet, the nearby surfaces, virtually anything it touches. I installed the cockpit sides below the doors. That one is easy because access is easy.

I installed the footbox fronts and the footbox outsides. I cut the provided carpet pieces into two pieces, one for the footbox front and one for the outside. This seemed to be easier to install, and it also makes these outside walls removable if necessary. since the FlipTop attachment points are attached to and through these outside footbox pieces, the ability to remove them might prove to be an advantage for adjustment and access. If nothing else, it made it much, much easier to get the carpet installed in the footbox areas, especially behind the pedals. I honestly don't know how you can install the carpet behind the pedals after all the panels are in place without making a huge mess. With the side panel removed, it was pretty easy to just slide it in from the outside. I might even suggest that if you are going to permanently install the outside panels in the normal manner, you might want to attach the carpet on the front panel of the DS footbox before you even attach the panel. I left the outside edge unglued where the two panels will be attached to each other. The panel lip will slip behind the carpet and never be noticed.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69171&d=1497884046

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69169&d=1497884045

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69168&d=1497884045

At that point i had to stop. I have only the floors and the sides of the tranny tunnel left to carpet. However, I did not have enough of the exterior carpet mastic to do it all. I probably installed the glue a bit too thick and used too much of it. Whatever, I sure is stuck in place!! I will have to order another can of glue. Since I had to order another can anyway, I decided I did not have to get every last sticky drop of glue out of this can!! Hello, Amazon . . .

While i had enough toxic fumes in the garage to orbit the space shuttle, I decided kill a few more brain cells and glue the leather onto the Transmission tunnel cover. I had been debating adding one large cup holder at the rear of the tranny cover. After much consideration, and encouragment from "she who shall be obeyed", I used the 3.5" hole saw to cut the hole into the tranny cover. (Yes, one more hole saw!!) I had to use a curved file to enlarge the hole just slightly to allow the cup holder to slip through.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69170&d=1497884045

Last week i had laid the leather out on the concrete to allow it to relax and flatten out. When it is over 100 here, the concrete makes a very nice flat iron! (It is supposed to be a balmy 116 here today!!) After a couple of hours in the sun, the leather looked great. I took it back inside the garage and laid it out flat. Well sometime this weekend, one of the many guests that we had must have moved it to set down his drink. It now is wrinkled again! No damage done, just a delay in installing it. I will lay it in the sun again today and try again tonight.

Jazzman

06-19-2017, 10:27 AM

I posted this in the "Pay it Forward" section, but just in case you missed it, I am done with my trusty Frame Dolly. If you are considering building a roadster and live in Arizona, I would be happy to make you a present of it. PM me if you are interested.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45562&d=1442723077

Jazzman

07-07-2017, 10:28 AM

The interior is getting close to being done. Last week I covered the transmission tunnel cover with leather. Surprisingly no drama here. I applied two coats of landau top cement to both the leather and the aluminum with my last disposable paintbrush. (Remember the box of disposable paint brushes I bought in preparation for all fibreglass work? Box of 50 brushes, all gone. It was very nice to always have a brush available that I didn't have to feel guilty about cleaning!!) With the help of my assistant, we simply laid the leather onto the aluminum, and it was done. You can't move the pieces after they touch, so you have to be careful, but we had no problems. I used a small rubber roller to press it all down and make sure it was smooth.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69923&d=1499440333

I was very meticulous about cutting out the holes in the aluminum for the cup holders. This turned out to be a really good idea, which I will show you in a minute.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69924&d=1499440333

The cup holders slipped right in.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69925&d=1499440334

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69926&d=1499440334

To keep the cup holders in place, and to protect them from the heat that will be flowing by them, I wrapped the back side of the cupholders with pieces of the heat shielding material that I used on the cockpit panels. It works perfectly. The cup holders can't come out or rattle.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69927&d=1499440335

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69928&d=1499440336

The leather all the way around the edges was trimmed and glued into place. The whole thing came out perfect!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69929&d=1499440336

The small circles of leather than i carefully removed from the holes from the cup holders were not wasted. I applied a small amount of landau top cement to the bottom of the cup holders and put these circles of leather at the bottom of the cup holder. It looks a bit more finished, and I hope it will keep things other than cups from rattling (like cell phones!)

Jazzman

07-07-2017, 11:14 AM

I received a surprise phone call yesterday afternoon: my car body is ready to pick up, bring home, and install for the final time on the car! The exterior body work is done, the interior work is complete, the bed liner is applied, and the color coat is applied to the underside of the body. I am going to go get it this afternoon. More on that later.

Last night I continued work on installing the carpet. I applied the DS piece to the side of the transmission tunnel. No problems there. Then I turned my attention to the PS of the Tunnel. I could not figure out a way to successfully apply the glue, then slide the carpet behind the emergency brake handle After much thinking and consideration, I decided to slide the carpet behind the emergency brake handle, then pull it out of the way to apply the glue. It worked. I had to be very careful not to get glue in the wrong places. The carpet panel is fully in place now.

Next up was the PS floor carpeting. I was working on trimming the carpet to fit when my new "assistant" Abby decided she wanted to "help". I didn't want her to get into the glue, so I completed the trimming process but didn't actually glue down the piece. I turned my attention to the DS carpet, and when I turned around, here is what I saw:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69934&d=1499440338

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69931&d=1499440337

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69933&d=1499440338

I did get the DS carpet trimmed and installed. It's pretty tough to get a photo of black carpet. Suffice to say that it all fit perfectly (after a bit of trimming and fitting!!).

GoDadGo

07-07-2017, 12:01 PM

Your car needs a Single White Stripe to match the one on the snoot of your pooch!

KDubU

07-07-2017, 02:03 PM

What a pretty pup! What is she? Had to goodbye to my little fur buddy today. She made it past 14 and her spirit was willing but her body not.

Jazzman

07-07-2017, 04:35 PM

What a pretty pup! What is she? Had to goodbye to my little fur buddy today. She made it past 14 and her spirit was willing but her body not.

KDubU, I am so sorry to hear of your loss. We went through the same pain about three months ago. Max was 14 too. Spirit willing, body, not so much. My thoughts are with you.

Abby is an "American Bully". The breed is a cross of Pit Bull, Boxer, and American Bulldog. She is bred specifically have a more "family friendly" personality than the pure Pit Bull, be fun loving and friendly like the Boxer, and have the general size of the Bulldog. The mix clearly works! She is friendly with everyone of all ages, she is incredibly smart, and is very strong and muscular. She is amazingly even tempered. I can trim her nails while she is napping on the couch! Her coloring is called "Blue" and is associated with the Pit Bull (i am told). Great dog!

WIS89

07-08-2017, 07:30 AM

Kevin-

Great update! The interior details look super, terrific news that the body is ready, awesome pictures of your new assistant Abby (she looks so happy and comfortable!), and things are nearing completion!

I like what you did with the cupholders; both wrapping them in insulating material, and the leather cutouts in the bottom. I think it will make a nice difference compared to leaving them unfinished.

I am looking forward to seeing her all come together! I hope it goes smoothly, and you share lots of pictures! Keep up the great work.

Regards,

Steve

Jazzman

07-08-2017, 02:24 PM

I was hoping to pick up the body yesterday, but several things got in the way. My trailer source was out of town, but he agreed to let me "steal" the trailer from his yard. The biggest problems were a) friday turned out to be unusually busy for a Friday in the Summer, and b) it was 117 when I could have left the house. I decided i could wait until tuesday when it will be a cool 104. Matt at Kandy Shoppe Creations emailed me these photos to tease me!!

After all the under body prep was complete, they taped off all the areas that should not get bedliner or paint.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69980&d=1499541306

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69979&d=1499541306

They applied Bedliner to the entire underside of the body:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69981&d=1499541307

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69982&d=1499541307

They applied Silver base coat:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69984&d=1499541308

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69985&d=1499541309

Jazzman

07-08-2017, 02:28 PM

Next they applied several coats of "Burgundy" Candy:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69986&d=1499541309

They added several coats of clear:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69988&d=1499541310

Finally they set it out in the Arizona sun to bake!! Here is the final color. Please forgive the somewhat blotchy tone. When the photo was taken, the sun had moved and the body was in the shade of a tree.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69978&d=1499541306

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69977&d=1499541305

I am looking forward to getting it back and beginning the final push towards full paint on the outside!!

Jeff Kleiner

07-08-2017, 03:15 PM

Sounds like they are going to do topside paint with it on the chassis...correct?

Jeff

Jazzman

07-10-2017, 01:13 AM

Sounds like they are going to do topside paint with it on the chassis...correct?

Jeff

Yep. That's the plan. I was sort of surprised by it, but they seem to feel that by doing it this way they can get the final fit just "so". Kandy Shoppe has certainly not steered me wrong yet, so I will continue to trust them.

Jazzman

07-10-2017, 01:55 AM

In between family obligations, I have slowly been checking off minor items from the punch list. I am trying to get all the wiring issues ironed out. I started with the simple ones. Got the switch hooked up that will feed the lights inside the hood. Nothing fancy, but nice to have it checked off the list.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70099&d=1499666679

All the carpet is in, and the side panels on the PS and DS footboxes are refitted. It took just a bit of trimming, but they are in place. I have not permanently attached them yet. I am stalling as long as I can. I worked a bit on reinstalling the attachment points for the hood latches. I won't be sure of their final placement until the hood is attached for the last time. When I am sure of how it fits, I plan to make two stainless steel plates to install where the latches may rub against the side of the footboxes. I talked with my friend that has the mill, he said he would be happy to cut them out for me. :D

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70100&d=1499666680

I worked on pre-setting ride height on the rear wheels. It's not hard, just a bit repetitive. Lift the car, adjust the coil over shocks, lower the car, measure, repeat. The entire car currently sits at 4.5" off the ground. I will do the process after the body and everything else is installed. I did discovers something I was not expecting. A broken emergency brake fitting. When I was adjusting the DS rear wheel, something about the emergency brake line just didn't look right. It kept nagging at my brain, so finally I compared to to the PS e-brake. The aluminum bracket is broken! Take a look at the bracket just above the red arrow.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70101&d=1499666680

Now I have two questions: How in the world did it get broken, and how do I keep it from breaking again? I can rule out my enormous biceps as the reason it broke! It doesn't look like anything hit it, there are no other dents or scratches on other parts (Not to mention I have only driven it 7 miles!!) Best guess, it looks like the torque of the E-brake cable actually snapped off the mounting point. This one is a mystery. I will call FFR tomorrow to see if they have any ideas. and see if they can help me figure out which part needs to be replaced. Looks like I get to take apart the rear brake area before I even get 10 miles on the car! :(

Jazzman

07-12-2017, 11:05 AM

The "butter-mobile" is home. I picked up the body from Kandy Shoppe Creations yesterday morning. It turns out this was a good choice. Last friday when I could have picked it up, it was 117. Yesterday morning it was a balmy 90 degrees! The body looks even better in person. The bedliner is very nicely done, the color is gorgeous. Photos sadly do not do it justice yet. I can't wait to get it all put back together and get the top coat done!!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70192&d=1499874044

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70191&d=1499874043

I installed the shoulder harnesses last night. It wasn't hard, but I sure managed to make it as difficult as possible. I forgot to install the trim rings on cockpit side before I ran the harnesses through. Everything worth doing is worth doing twice, right? I found that it was helpful to put two thick washers between the upper mounting point and the attachement ring on the shoulder harness. it lets the harness slip more easily for adjustment.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70190&d=1499874043

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70189&d=1499874042

I removed the broken emergency brake part from the DS rear brake assembly. It looks to be in perfect condition, except for the broken brake cable mounting point.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70196&d=1499874045

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70194&d=1499874045

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70193&d=1499874044

I am calling Wilwood today to find out what to do.

UPDATE: I called Wilwood. The replacement part is #110-8830 for the DS. It costs $21.43 shipped and will be here next week. They had no explanation of how it might have gotten broken so early, and no suggestions on how to prevent it in the future. They did suggest I call FFR, which I will also do. It would appear at this point that it is just a defective part. Too bad they wouldn't stand behind it.

Kyle @ Forma

07-12-2017, 12:06 PM

Jazzman,

Great build so far! I love the flip-top plus all the details that show that it's actually a "driver's car".

It's a small touch but the underhood lighting switch location is perfect; it's nearly invisible to onlookers but conveniently located when you need it.

I'm subscribed and look forward to updates. :cool:

wareaglescott

07-12-2017, 01:00 PM

Looks good Kevin! Get that butter mobile put on the go cart! Cant wait to see the flip top in action.
You are still working on that electrically activated hydraulically actuated lift system right?....

Jazzman

07-13-2017, 11:49 PM

Sometimes you just have to be willing to admit you got too smart for your own good. I was pretty pleased with myself after I figured I could "hide" the amp for the stereo in the trunk, but have it completely out of the sight lines. It used to be mounted above the speakers inside the trunk on the four bolts that are above the frame rail:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=70188&d=1499874042

When the amp got fried due to a stray wire hitting the positive battery terminal, I was forced to remove and replace the amp. Removing it proved much more difficult than expected, and the body isn't even on yet. The bolts that it was mounted to were installed before the carpet. The carpet now covers the bolt heads. Looks good, but you can't get to them to unscrew the nuts. As expect under Murphy's first immutable law, three of the nuts came off with only minor strain, but the fourth was just not going to come off without a fight. I got to thinking how difficult (even impossible) this task would be once the body is on. I got the last nut off, but I have decided that as "smart" as this location might be, it really would be impossible to service. THerefore, I am re-wiring the speaker system to put the amp under the dash. While removing the dash with the body on will be no picnic, it is possible.

Now I have to decide what amp to put back in. I want to have an amp that does not require a "head" unit. It needs to have bluetooth built in to connect directly to my phone/computer/pad. This severely limits my options. I liked the size of the SoundStream ST4.1000DB (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B9KH1S8/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2AH6BGHI3KV4N) that I had. However, the installation instructions were clearly (actually UN-Clearly) written by someone who does not speak English as a first language . . . perhaps not even as a second! They also don't seem to have any type of customer service number. I am considering purchasing a different brand of amp just so that I can get more helpful installing instructions. I found a nice Rockford Fosgate amp that looked very good, but it was too big to fit in the very limited space available on the back side of the firewall behind the dashboard. I am researching choices tonight. I have to get one ordered ASAP!

I reconnected the rear speakers to the wires that were already there. The trunk area is now ready for the body to be installed. The punch list is getting shorter!

Update: After looking at every bluetooth enabled amp I could find, the best combination of features, size, price, and lack of features (I don't need dancing lights on my amp!!) turned out to be the same Soundstream amp I had before. I ordered another one. I will endeavor to not fry this one!!