Andrew & Tamra's 818SR EM Autox Hybrid Destroked Long-Rod Build [Archive] - Page 3

Tamra

03-22-2015, 08:30 PM

This weekend we worked on finishing up loose ends in prep for our autocross next Sunday.

We relocated the harness bar tabs on the roll bar to get the angle that Schroth recommended for the harnesses. The FFR location was too high, and the chassis tube was too low. We moved them down about 1". Photo is pre-paint so you can see it better.

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/8B6FA06C-0440-4202-B58E-0AE83A74399F_zpskpgejiob.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/8B6FA06C-0440-4202-B58E-0AE83A74399F_zpskpgejiob.jpg.html)

Also welded on a tab for the submarine seat belt to bolt to:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/A4E02622-7C80-4C7B-B8FC-B7B3C458AB3E_zpspz7j72ez.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/A4E02622-7C80-4C7B-B8FC-B7B3C458AB3E_zpspz7j72ez.jpg.html)

Installed:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/FCC04B5E-25C6-472A-B696-418F27FC673D_zpsbeiuhhkg.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/FCC04B5E-25C6-472A-B696-418F27FC673D_zpsbeiuhhkg.jpg.html)

We also installed the firewall permanently:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/27C4EE41-7EDE-4286-93B4-E447E8FFB002_zpsybw8p8ps.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/27C4EE41-7EDE-4286-93B4-E447E8FFB002_zpsybw8p8ps.jpg.html)

Seats are permanently installed on their sliders. We drilled additional holes in order to tip them back and get them lower. We also installed our Schroth Profi II ASM FE harnesses. If the seats ever come out again, we are going to weld the mounting bolts that go down into the frame to the sliders. As it sits, it is horrible pain to install them, and we don't even have the undertray on.

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/8E88FC48-1672-43AC-BBE5-57B6511D06CC_zpsqagyaxtw.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/8E88FC48-1672-43AC-BBE5-57B6511D06CC_zpsqagyaxtw.jpg.html)

Finally, we also installed our turbo blanket and some DEI heat shield on the AWIC to reflect heat from the turbo (see gold tape) and help keep things cool:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/0F5D5650-775F-4AE2-B551-63E01E7A3D01_zpslkewp1gv.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/0F5D5650-775F-4AE2-B551-63E01E7A3D01_zpslkewp1gv.jpg.html)

This week, our plan is to install the undertray (holes already drilled just need to rivet on), re-burp the AWIC (I had an oops today and accidentally drilled a hole through the firewall and straight into a hose), and wire in a fan on a switch for the AWIC radiator so that we can have it on before the radiator fans are triggered. Also, the center console if we have time.

Mechie3

03-22-2015, 08:51 PM

Moving those tabs probably meant you didnt need to cut down the harness bar. Nice work.

Tamra

03-22-2015, 09:22 PM

Moving those tabs probably meant you didnt need to cut down the harness bar. Nice work.

Yeah we noticed it didn't fit lol. Now it is in the middle of its adjustment range. More importantly though, our harness is now correctly positioned.

tebriel

03-23-2015, 11:06 AM

Did you figure out if your BOV was leaking at idle? I've been trying to find one for a while that doesn't leak at idle, le sigh.

xxguitarist

03-23-2015, 11:19 AM

We did not look into it any further, nor have we gotten around to plumbing it in. Our tuner just went to speed-density tuning.

tebriel

03-24-2015, 11:52 AM

Excellent!

Tamra

03-24-2015, 12:40 PM

Thank you!

Glad we could be of assistance ;p

Hindsight

03-27-2015, 08:36 AM

Quick question: How are you filling your AWIC setup and are you running straight water or a coolant mix?

Tamra

03-27-2015, 03:21 PM

We are using a coolant mix. We filled it from the AWIC first until the coolant reached the top of the hose, then filled it from the radiator with the pump running (we wired our pump to run whenever the key is in the on position). We kept moving the AWIC around to help get bubbles through it and squeezed the hoses. You can hear the bubbles going through the pump, so you can tell when they're mostly out. After the dyno session we topped it off again but it didn't take much more. We will probably check it again before autox on Sunday to see if we can fill it any further, especially since I had my oops with the drill through a hose... we already burped it once since.

Ours is closed loop. I believe if you do run an ice box, it would probably be much easier to burp, but that means you must run water - no coolant.

Hindsight

03-27-2015, 03:30 PM

Thanks for the reply! So is the radiator cap higher than the intercooler? Seems like it would have to be in order for the method you posted above to work.... but I can't imagine it would normally be higher with the car resting on the ground so are you jacking up the front until the radiator fill cap is higher than the bleeder on the intercooler?

Tamra

03-27-2015, 03:57 PM

We did jack up the front - sorry I forgot to mention that. However, the AWIC pump does a pretty good job of pumping it through too.

Hindsight

03-27-2015, 04:01 PM

Nice ok I fully understand. Sorry - one last question: Do you have an overflow connected to the barb near the radiator cap, or did you just plug that?

Tamra

03-28-2015, 08:08 PM

Tomorrow is our first autcross. It snowed lightly today and tomorrow is predicted to be sunny. It will be 22 degrees at 8am, climbing to a pleasant 39 by mid afternoon... This should be fun... if it happens. They haven't cancelled it yet. It's also only 5 miles from our house so if we end up miserable we can easily go home.

On another note, we picked up a tire mounting and balancing machine today (Our van purchase has paid for itself already). We figure the ROI is 1-1.5 years with the autox tires and some personal car swaps. Our Hoosiers are due in next week along with our race wheels! Just street tires for tomorrow.

I swear it's not an Atlas rocket...
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/tires_zpsl4dov9io.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/tires_zpsl4dov9io.jpg.html)

And, while picking up the tire mounter and balancer, I found this gem that happened to be directly in route... went by, fell in love, and took her home. I sold my Mazda 3 about a week or so ago and had been keeping an eye out for an S2000, RX-8, G35, etc. This one is beautiful. All the bolts even have their original plating (we can all appreciate that after tearing apart our rust bucket Subarus), and the rest of the car is just as clean. I think the most salt the car has seen in its life was on the U-Haul trailer during the tow home.

You can never have too many RWD two seaters!

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/s2k_zpsrc5ediqm.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/s2k_zpsrc5ediqm.jpg.html)

Nice ok I fully understand. Sorry - one last question: Do you have an overflow connected to the barb near the radiator cap, or did you just plug that?

No overflow with the AWIC. Per my understanding, the water temp really shouldn't get warm enough to need an overflow.. if it does we're in trouble. I'll fact check my answer with Andrew in a bit.

metros

03-28-2015, 09:05 PM

Nice pick up on the s2k. Those OEM hardtops are worth a mint too!

<----Wishes he never sold his turbo s2000. *Sigh*

Hindsight

03-28-2015, 09:16 PM

Wow, new roadster and a tire mount and balance setup?! Sounds like the beginnings of a very fun year! Congrats on finding the S2k. Were you sick of the FWD of the Mazda?

Tamra

03-28-2015, 09:29 PM

Wow, new roadster and a tire mount and balance setup?! Sounds like the beginnings of a very fun year! Congrats on finding the S2k. Were you sick of the FWD of the Mazda?

I like to switch cars every year or so... I'm 25 and this is now my 14th vehicle (counting the 818, so you could argue 13), 3 of which have been Miatas. I think I managed to sell all of them but two for at least what I paid for them, or even made a gain.

The S2000 is very pretty though... it might last longer. We'll have to see. Most of the fun cars I wanted were RWD so I was originally planning on just throwing snow tires on for the winter (my commute is all major highways), but now I might have to pick up a winter beater. The car is so clean I would feel bad driving it in salt.

As of now, the autocross event is still on for tomorrow. We'll have to see how conditions look in the morning. Could be more like ice racing than autox with this weather.

Mechie3

03-28-2015, 10:14 PM

I have a friend with a tire machine and balancer. He does tire swaps/mounts/etc for the Subaru club in exchange for 6/12 packs. He just doesn't touch cars. You either bring him loose wheels or you remove and install wheels so he doesn't have any liability for torquing them. You could recoup costs that way too (either in beer or charge a nominal fee to locals).

Scargo

03-29-2015, 05:39 AM

I pay close to $100 a pop for getting tires mounted and balanced. A case of beer would be a bargain!
I don't see a cancellation notice on FFCSCC's site as of this moment...
Man, I am jealous of that S2000. I can see why you snatched it up. At least I have part of one.:o

xxguitarist

03-29-2015, 06:00 AM

Hindsight,
One note- We didn't actually fill the AWIC core. We filled the radiator, turned the AWIC on end, so its feed line was on the bottom & return was on the top, and stuck a shopvac on the return fitting w/ a scrap of hose. This helped hugely in priming the pump the first time. Once the pump was mostly working, leave the AWIC core on end, re-connect the return, and spend a while squeezing, filling, tapping, filling, shaking the AWIC core, filling..

If you have a funnel that will wedge into the radiator fill neck area, it'll make the job (a little) less messy.

Back on today.. we're going to have to brush snow off of the cars to go autox, which apparently is still on :confused:

Tamra

03-29-2015, 06:31 AM

So we've opted to choose the car with a heater, enclosed body, and all season tires today. 22 degrees and melting snow/ice do not sound pleasant in our go-kart 818. Time to break in the S2000 I guess :)

There's a test and tune in a couple of weeks followed by an event on Sunday that we will aim for next with the 818.

Hindsight

03-29-2015, 06:51 AM

Thx for the additional awic info and good luck today!

Oppenheimer

03-29-2015, 08:28 AM

And, while picking up the tire mounter and balancer, I found this gem that happened to be directly in route... went by, fell in love, and took her home. I sold my Mazda 3 about a week or so ago and had been keeping an eye out for an S2000, RX-8, G35, etc. This one is beautiful. All the bolts even have their original plating (we can all appreciate that after tearing apart our rust bucket Subarus), and the rest of the car is just as clean. I think the most salt the car has seen in its life was on the U-Haul trailer during the tow home.

Congrats on the S2000. Allow me to direct you to some helpful tips for new owners:

http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/1020648-im-a-new-owner-what-to-changecheckreplace-first/

9k redline, and more hp/liter than all but a 458 Italia. There are more than a few of these cars with well over 300K miles, on all original drivetrain components, with just regular maintenance. Try that with the Ferrari!

I suggest using the Honda OEM oil filter. Generic filters not really designed for such high rpm flow. Also suggest a 0W-30 oil (factory recommended is 10W-30, but that was done at a time when 0W synthetics weren't so common - IMO they would be recommending a 0W-30 if they did the eval with today's oils).

I 3 season DD mine.

If you need any S2K advice or assistance, I am right across the river from you (those houses you can see from the Sikorsky bridge, I live in that complex). Plus it gives me an excuse to see your 818.

How did the S do at the AutoX?

Frank818

03-29-2015, 05:31 PM

Great S2000! Nice swap into your next 818! :)

metalmaker12

03-29-2015, 05:34 PM

The s2k is my favorite roadster of all time, with a comptech sc kit it is like magic.

Tamra

03-29-2015, 09:09 PM

Thanks for the comments everyone!

Autocross went well today. What an awesome day. It started out icy, so we autoxed my new S2k in the morning (boy is she fun and tail happy). The ground dried up, so we picked up Bug to run for the afternoon (still 30 degrees but sunny). Everything went better than expected! The tune was great (thank you EFI logics!), data logs were flawless, and our home alignment did the trick. Happy, fun, problem free day! I'll post 3 videos in a moment.

The very first outing of the day - Andrew in Bug. Having never driven it (beyond 1st gear around the block) and its very first time ever on the autocross track, it went very well!

Note: the rattling you hear is likely our catch cans rattling against the frame. Not noticeable in person but it's going through the chassis tubes and the go-pro is picking it up. Guess we'll add some rubber to quiet it down.

When you hit play, click on "settings" then "HD" for better quality.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g5VZZoq0bt4

Tamra

03-29-2015, 09:11 PM

One of my last runs. Either a 31.1 or 31.2. This car is a BLAST!!! Set up was pretty good. Slight understeer when going in too hot, and oversteer on throttle. Very catchable (unless you use too much throttle and the turbo insta-spools midcorner, which Andrew found out). We have the 500lb springs on the front, no front bar yet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZlx3tQLITk

Tamra

03-29-2015, 09:11 PM

Our friend Tim (and owner of the S2000 CR we are co-driving this year), who has been out helping us work on the 818 every Sunday for the past few months (thank you!!!), also took a turn, and ran a 30.5.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jyzj4i0bWwY

Tamra

03-29-2015, 10:12 PM

Blooper reels! Andrew learned how quick our turbo spools mid-corner...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=51UxsSBU8og

Tamra

03-29-2015, 10:13 PM

And I learned that manual brakes do not respond as much as power brakes...whoops. Also going to upgrade the brake pads, soon. Current pads are cheapos from Napa that the donor came with.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FfHdO3DmALA

Ellimist

03-29-2015, 11:47 PM

Looking really great, as always, guys!! Awesome find in that S2K, been wanting one myself for a while now.

Bob_n_Cincy

03-30-2015, 12:54 AM

Blooper reels! Andrew learned how quick our turbo spools mid-corner...

And I learned that manual brakes do not respond as much as power brakes...whoops. Also going to upgrade the brake pads, soon. Current pads are cheapos from Napa that the donor came with

Tamra and Andrew,
Welcome to the spin party. Michael and I have each taken it for a spin a couple of times each. Michael is 40 years younger than I and has quicker reaction time. I have seen him save a spins 5-6 times. Me, not so good.

On the brake issue, I went to bigger dual piston OEM calipers in the rear, with https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2022418 pads. I am happy with the brakes.
Bob

Scargo

03-30-2015, 05:50 AM

"Bug" seems to stay extremely flat! Couldn't detect any body roll in the vids. Other impression: The steering seems slow. Lots of steering wheel cranking. How does it compare to the S2000 or other cars on the course?
Ratios? You stayed in second the whole time, correct? Looks like fun!:p

Tamra

03-30-2015, 07:17 AM

Looking really great, as always, guys!! Awesome find in that S2K, been wanting one myself for a while now.

Thank you!

Tamra and Andrew,
Welcome to the spin party. Michael and I have each taken it for a spin a couple of times each. Michael is 40 years younger than I and has quicker reaction time. I have seen him save a spins 5-6 times. Me, not so good.

On the brake issue, I went to bigger dual piston OEM calipers in the rear, with https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2022418 pads. I am happy with the brakes.
Bob

I found the 818 very easy to drive. Easier than the S2k, actually. Nice predictable oversteer on throttle, relatively easy to catch, predictable understeer when too hot. I liked the way it drove quite a lot, aside from the brakes.

Andrew is going to respond in a minute on the brakes.

"Bug" seems to stay extremely flat! Couldn't detect any body roll in the vids. Other impression: The steering seems slow. Lots of steering wheel cranking. How does it compare to the S2000 or other cars on the course?
Ratios? You stayed in second the whole time, correct? Looks like fun!:p

Bug did stay very flat, as far as we could tell. The steering is very very slow, especially compared to the S2k Ap1 steering rack. The course yesterday was particularly tight too, so it was more noticeable than I think it would be otherwise. We might end up doing something about that, but for now we are going to fix the brakes and get some more seat time. And yes, we stayed in 2nd the whole time. Our goal is to stay in 2nd even on much faster courses. The steering ratio on the S2k is 14.9:1, the Subaru is 16.5:1. Those numbers make it sound like less of a difference than it feels like... the S2k feels like you could nearly do u-turn without shuffling your hands, whereas the 02 Subaru rack feels like you keep turning and shuffling and turning the wheel until you finally get there.

xxguitarist

03-30-2015, 07:26 AM

Brakes: First up, I had less troubles than Tamra with them, though I came nowhere near locking up the brakes at any point, so I think there's plenty of improvement to be had, and also some adjusting to the lack of power brakes.
Our race wheels should be showing up soon, and we will have to check fitment of the fronts over the factory 02 WRX calipers before ordering pads.
I don't want to go to a bigger caliper to solve the problem- there's more than enough pad area, piston force, etc to stop a much heavier vehicle, and we don't want additional unsprung weight either.
Assuming the wheels fit over the calipers, we'll first try out a more aggressive pad. I'm partial to EBC yellows. Great cold bite, and they hold up to a LOT before they show any signs of fade. Keep in mind, we're not doing roadcourse driving.
If that doesn't fix the problem, then we'll go to a smaller diameter master cyl. Right now we have very firm brakes, virtually just pressure modulated, almost no travel. We would give up some of that pedal feel, but gain a lot of mechanical advantage on the fluid pressure. IMO, this is the "right" way to fix it, rather than adding more caliper to an already overkill setup (again, for our use)

Frank818

03-30-2015, 07:28 AM

Did you guys finally succeeded to align the front camber/caster?
If yes, all you did was to add an alu spacer on the LCA's inner big bolts?

Hindsight

03-30-2015, 07:58 AM

Wow! Very happy you were able to run without any issues your first time out. Thats a real testament of your build skill!

xxguitarist

03-30-2015, 10:30 AM

Frank,
We have the spacer on the LCA. Top adjustments are bottomed out to minimum each for this first go. I'm sure there's room for improvement, but nothing glaringly obvious to us or our experienced friend.

Thanks Hindsight, us too! I think it might be more credited to checklists!

Tamra

03-30-2015, 10:44 AM

Wow! Very happy you were able to run without any issues your first time out. Thats a real testament of your build skill!

Thank you! We were a mix of relieved that everything went well during the first run, followed by overwhelming excitement the remainder of the runs. It went way way way better than we had anticipated. The fact that it was easier to drive than the S2k on its first outing ever is a testament to this car's potential with some more fine tuning and the big one - good tires (and more seat time for us).

Had we not been doing mostly fun runs (not counted for results), we all would have been top 15/top 10 by raw time out of 61 drivers. Not bad for a first outing with the wrong tires and not a real alignment, and learning the car. We were not expecting it to go that well.

Bob_n_Cincy

03-30-2015, 11:28 AM

xxguitarist

03-30-2015, 11:45 AM

On your next autocross, do some panic type stops at the finish line to see F-R balance.
Bob

Now we just need a stop box that isn't at full lock on the steering :-)
Your approach makes sense also. Why aren't you a fan of a prop valve?

That finish was annoying, I do understand it though given that the morning was icy, it guaranteed that nobody came in too hot.

Frank818

03-30-2015, 12:52 PM

Tnx for the answer Andrew on the LCA spacer.

Frank818

03-30-2015, 12:58 PM

Sorry Andrew, yours are 4mm thick if I recall?

Tamra

03-30-2015, 01:52 PM

Hey Frank, yes they are 4mm thick spacers. More spacer = more castor. Just remember if you add a lot of spacer, you should consider getting longer bolts.

Bob_n_Cincy

03-30-2015, 03:32 PM

Now we just need a stop box that isn't at full lock on the steering :-)
Your approach makes sense also. Why aren't you a fan of a prop valve?
That finish was annoying, I do understand it though given that the morning was icy, it guaranteed that nobody came in too hot.

The Proportion valve reduces pressure to the front wheels. Resulting in more pedal force required for an equivalent stop.

From my initial test, you have to turn down the front pretty far. A prop valve is good for fine tuning. I will not use one for large adjustments.

If I was willing to spend the money, I would have gone to balance bar type master cylinder. Where all your pedal force makes it to the wheels.

With square brakes like I have now, I will still go to a Prop valve for fine tuning. I just don't know yet if it will be on the back or front because I'm pretty close now.

In this video, Michael has a slight lockup of the rear wheels at the 52 second mark.

https://youtu.be/pnpo8Y4rOsg

To make testing easier, take it out on some wet roads.
Bob

RM1SepEx

03-30-2015, 06:50 PM

Nice vids Andrew and Tamra, great job. Are all your courses so short? 30 second runs... :(

Tamra

03-30-2015, 07:33 PM

No, they are not all that short. We went to our local club, FCSCC, which is only 5 miles down the road from us. It was held in the small lot yesterday, which is pretty cramped, and on top of that they made the course very tight due to the icy conditions (likely for safety). We will bring "Bug" out to a bigger course to stretch his legs soon :) The small lot was a perfect first test though.

Tamra

03-30-2015, 07:36 PM

Bob, I love your videos. How do you like the FFR steering wheel? We will be swapping out steering wheel after we are street legal.

Bob_n_Cincy

03-30-2015, 08:09 PM

Bob, I love your videos. How do you like the FFR steering wheel? We will be swapping out steering wheel after we are street legal.
Hi Tamra
I put the steering wheel on with a NRG short Subaru adaptor. With this set up, the steering shaft hits the horn button. Our non functioning button is now glued into the wheel. I am used to a larger steering wheel. But in this tight (for us) car, we really don't have room for a bigger wheel. The quality of the steering wheel is excellent.
Bob

40110

Tamra

04-08-2015, 08:20 PM

Sorry for the lack of updates lately. We took a little break, followed by spending some time learning how to use our tire mounter and balancer. My S2000 got some Direzza Z2's last night, and our 818 got R-Comps on our new race wheels today.

We searched for awhile to find race wheels. We wanted 15x8, 5x100 in the front, which is not easy to find unless you go to a fully custom 3 piece ($$$) wheel.

We wanted the 1" drop in wheel size, plus a lower diameter tire, in order to get about a 1" drop in ride height for racing. We are at 4" with the street wheels/tires (17x8 et 45 Enkei PF01 with Direzza Z2's in 235/40/17 and 255/40/17), and about 3" with the race wheels/tires (some rake as the front is lower).

We found some Axe Wheels, 15x8, 5x100, et 25, and ordered a set of 4. Despite being relatively cheap wheels ($600 for the set of 4), they feel like they are of pretty good quality. They're not the lightest or the heaviest at 16lbs each.

We did not think the 15" wheels would fit over the WRX brakes, but we lucked out! Perfect fit. Now to order some EBC Yellow brake pads, since we've confirmed we do not have to order new brackets/rotors.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/2CE7DCA4-B584-4449-A24E-1B86C9333DB0_zpsclvtmmxn.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/2CE7DCA4-B584-4449-A24E-1B86C9333DB0_zpsclvtmmxn.jpg.html)

Clear on the suspension as well:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/94D40583-8C34-497A-9679-FB130911659B_zpsdy9wle5n.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/94D40583-8C34-497A-9679-FB130911659B_zpsdy9wle5n.jpg.html)

We have two sets of tires for the front wheels - Hoosier A7's in 245/40/15 ($$$ and therefore saving for big clubs), and Hankook Ventus C71's in 225/45/15 (used, cheap, and will be used on our rough, local, small lot). Pictured are the C71's, with plenty of clearance at full lock.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/128560FC-DCC5-4974-A971-92F6635BBDD1_zpsuasel0uc.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/128560FC-DCC5-4974-A971-92F6635BBDD1_zpsuasel0uc.jpg.html)

The Axe Ex-8 wheels next to our Enkei PFO1's.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/DFEED46A-8529-4FDA-B238-324AD8424792_zpspbm1kqlk.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/DFEED46A-8529-4FDA-B238-324AD8424792_zpspbm1kqlk.jpg.html)

The rears are Drifz in 16x8, et 25, wrapped in Hoosier A6's in size 245/45/16 (bought on sale from Hoosier for $90/each!!!). They're not a perfect match to the Axe Ex8 wheels (aside from the color), but they are similar enough. We could not find a matched set of fronts and rears in the sizes/offsets we wanted. The Driftz wheels weighed in at 19 lbs.

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/819043D3-C91A-4D8E-87A4-76748E4BFBA4_zpspibe3vsd.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/819043D3-C91A-4D8E-87A4-76748E4BFBA4_zpspibe3vsd.jpg.html)

Plenty of clearance:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/19DB4859-8F1B-4B7B-BAC5-225288F15680_zpsmhi51oyz.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/19DB4859-8F1B-4B7B-BAC5-225288F15680_zpsmhi51oyz.jpg.html)

Side by side:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/EC9C86AD-0B9A-4BC6-A7D8-658FF91ADA3E_zps8ncwc2iw.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/EC9C86AD-0B9A-4BC6-A7D8-658FF91ADA3E_zps8ncwc2iw.jpg.html)

We know that the A6's on the rear with the used C71's on the front could create some odd handling characteristics due to the tire differences, but our small local lot is very rough on tires and we will not be using it for set up anyway. For the bigger lots (NNJR and NER), we will run the Hoosiers all around. Since we bought 8 wheels total, we will have one "local" set, and one "big event" set. Eventually, we will run larger tires on the rear, but we are running square to start at the events that matter, and this staggered set locally.

Now to decide to stick with silver or black and paint the other half to match... opinions?

Our next race with the 818 is on Sunday at the local lot again. We co-drove an S2000 CR last weekend at Metlife and all ended up top 20 pax (with the owner #1 pax). We are driving the S2000 at some of the pros, tours, and Lincoln this year, so we are having to choose which car to run at the big lots... we need to drive the S2000 to get us ready for the big events, but also need to drive our 818 to work on set up (and because it's FUN!). It's a tough choice!

Hindsight

04-08-2015, 08:27 PM

Wheels sound like they will work just great and while 16lbs may not be light for a nice 15" wheel, they are lighter than the 17s and 18s many of us will be running.

Now wash that salt off your suspension ASAP!!!!!!

How do you like the mounting and balancing setup?

xxguitarist

04-08-2015, 08:37 PM

The mount and balance setup is good. I'm ..tired.. :p after mounting one set per night, since these things have really tight beads. All seasons are on/off in a snap.

We estimated the ROI at just over 1 year. ONE YEAR. Couldn't resist.
We were also having trouble finding someone to mount used tires locally. Now we can run whatever we want to keep budget in check. Just realized after two sets that there's an additional plastic guard that would reduce a little scuffing at the edge of the rim. I'll put that in for the next set. It's exercise, it's a little frustrating, but it's also a fun challenge.
Hoosiers, C71s are a pain to mount, but easy to bead. (under 40 psi for C71, hoosiers were fully beaded at 10!)
Z2s are easy to mount, but sketchy to bead (65 psi) Worth note, that was a 225/50/16 on a 16x6.5, so a fair bit pinched. I'm sure a "proper" fit is easier.

Scargo

04-09-2015, 05:37 AM

Tamra

04-09-2015, 06:58 AM

I bet that's a workout! I'm wondering if you have the machines in your livingroom? Where do you find room for them?
I don't know who you are buying from but I like dealing with Phil's tires service in Cragsmoor, NY 12420, 845-647-7407, They are the official track-side tire support for NASA around here. Great couple to deal with. He is ex-racer and sells lots of 15~16" wheels-tires for Miatas, but perhaps in 5x100 they are very hard to find...

I told Andrew I'm going to buy him belt on weights... he's not heavy enough! The hardest part of the slicks is wrestling them onto the wheel, but then the bead seats easily (10-40 psi). My Z2s were relatively easy to get onto the wheel, but then took slightly sketchy pressures (65 psi) to get the bead to seat (he's going to make a cage before doing any more street tires).

The machines are currently at the front of our 2nd, 1 car garage. They fit with just enough space to squeeze the Miata in too. However, right now the rest of that garage is full of tires and wheels, so the Miata's kicked out in the driveway, which is parked two deep. Our house is only 800 square feet, so no room there either... we might end up moving later this summer. We desperately need more space.

We will definitely contact Phil's Tire next time. We didn't know about him! I doubt he could have found us wheels though... you can get 15x7 in 5x100 (no guarantee of fitment over the Subaru brakes), but we wanted specifically 15x8 in 5x100. Some of the steel wheel racing companies make them, but the highest offset they would go to was 12. We wanted at least 20+ offset so it was difficult to find. There are a few options listed online, but when we went to order we found out the listing was dated and the wheels were discontinued and out of stock. It took us three tries to finally get wheels shipped to us.

metalmaker12

04-09-2015, 10:54 AM

Thank you!

I found the 818 very easy to drive. Easier than the S2k, actually. Nice predictable oversteer on throttle, relatively easy to catch, predictable understeer when too hot. I liked the way it drove quite a lot, aside from the brakes.

Andrew is going to respond in a minute on the brakes.

Bug did stay very flat, as far as we could tell. The steering is very very slow, especially compared to the S2k Ap1 steering rack. The course yesterday was particularly tight too, so it was more noticeable than I think it would be otherwise. We might end up doing something about that, but for now we are going to fix the brakes and get some more seat time. And yes, we stayed in 2nd the whole time. Our goal is to stay in 2nd even on much faster courses. The steering ratio on the S2k is 14.9:1, the Subaru is 16.5:1. Those numbers make it sound like less of a difference than it feels like... the S2k feels like you could nearly do u-turn without shuffling your hands, whereas the 02 Subaru rack feels like you keep turning and shuffling and turning the wheel until you finally get there.

I agree the rack ratio is not sharpe enough. I thought of going with a Honda fit rack which is like an 12:5:1 or 11:5:1 and electric power assist.

Tamra

04-09-2015, 12:06 PM

I actually just realized that the AP1 steering ratio is 13.8:1 (same as the S2000 CR), and the AP2 steering ratio is 14.9:1.

I'm not sure I would actually want a quicker steering ratio on the 818 than my AP1.. I imagine 11.5:1 would be really twitchy. My S2000 with the 13.8:1 is ultra sensitive as it is.

You quoting my last post reminded me on the brakes - we have EBC Yellows on order. They won't be here in time for Sunday's race, but they will be installed before next weekend. Guess I'll be getting some more leg strength training on Sunday...

xxguitarist

04-09-2015, 01:45 PM

When comparing racks, it's worth noting the lever length at the hub- Since this isn't standardized, it's entirely possible to take a rack from a car with a very fast rack, and bolt it to another car with longer pivot-tierod lever length, and wind up with slow steering again.

I don't have this data on any of the above off the top of my head, but it's something we'll have to compare before selecting a rack.

metalmaker12

04-09-2015, 04:12 PM

Tamra

04-10-2015, 12:17 PM

Buttoned up a few more things last night. We installed the front undertray and also a bar, as cone protection... when I hit the wall of cones at the last event we learned how unprotected the radiators are, and wanted to take some steps to protect them.

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/6E8D4B2D-2A26-417A-8030-F484676B603D_zpsmq6md6mi.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/6E8D4B2D-2A26-417A-8030-F484676B603D_zpsmq6md6mi.jpg.html)

We also had some issues with our overflow tank splashing at the last autocross. When I hit the wall of cones, we saw coolant all over everything and initially thought I had broken the radiator, but later found out it was thankfully just the overflow tank splashing (it's amazing how much the bottle fills when the car gets up to temp - it started at the "low" line, and was well over the "full" line while autocrossing. However, we do have a lower PSI radiator cap due to our turbo coolant tank delete for the oil cooled turbo). In fact, you can see the remnants of the splashed coolant on the radiator fan...

We bought a square one and relocated it. The capacity is actually quite a bit more than the OEM one, and we can have it placed upright. Hopefully this will do the trick.

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/6DC66F2E-242E-47B7-B9FE-038876AA4582_zpsyicqjqfe.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/6DC66F2E-242E-47B7-B9FE-038876AA4582_zpsyicqjqfe.jpg.html)

Tamra

04-12-2015, 09:31 PM

Went to autocross today. The course was not the best for the 818 - very tight, lots of hard offsets, and very few places to use the throttle. Oh, and a stop box at the end of a straight that was wayyyyy too short. Let's put it this way: I had no problems over-using the brakes today (locking them up actually, especially trying to get stopped at the finish) and was wishing for a faster steering ratio. However, when I ran my S2000 in fun runs I still found myself spinning the wheel much more than usual...I'm going to say the course was worse than average. We've really got to get the 818 out into some open air to stretch its legs soon.

The highest post intercooler temperature we saw was 88 after boosting (65 ambient today), but the temp was not getting cooled down much in grid (sitting about 81) due to our lack of ducting. We noticed that since we have not added ducting, the radiator fans are pulling air from the space between the radiator and the AWIC, and so it is not getting much airflow being forced through the AWIC radiator. We are going to add ducting before next weekend. We will be doing an autocross school, and will likely get around 60 total runs in one day, so cooling will be more necessary (weather dependent, otherwise we'll run the S2000).

Here's a video from today. I was 8th overall by raw! There were two SAE cars at the top...:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWHCpKS6ivk

Tamra

04-15-2015, 09:17 AM

We are needing to get more negative camber in the front of the car in order to not destroy our race tires, but we are bottoming out the upper A arms. We looked at moving the control arm out to the wagon hole, but based on our measurements we would not have enough tie-rod thread to do that. For the record, the 02 WRX tie rod thread is about 2" in length. This photo is maxed out - the threaded end was about to fall out in this photo.

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/8EE83C69-0C84-4E05-9F8A-670580BDBFC4_zpscswrrmd1.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/8EE83C69-0C84-4E05-9F8A-670580BDBFC4_zpscswrrmd1.jpg.html)

Instead, we cut down the upper A-arms. We took off a few threads and also shortened the center nut down. It appears we gained more camber, but we are not sure what the final numbers are yet.

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/D06030BC-6B14-42A5-89B8-56DE2662E073_zpsbhso3snv.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/D06030BC-6B14-42A5-89B8-56DE2662E073_zpsbhso3snv.jpg.html)

We also installed EBC yellow brake pads:

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/F6128935-9C5D-45FD-868F-2705C676C856_zpsjocjtcpn.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/F6128935-9C5D-45FD-868F-2705C676C856_zpsjocjtcpn.jpg.html)

We have one more wheel to finish the brake pads on, and need to cut down the other A-arm, and then torque everything, which we will finish up tonight. Tomorrow we will work on ducting the AWIC radiator.

Scargo

04-15-2015, 10:12 AM

I wonder about the camber gain. Perhaps the distance between upper and lower is great enough that it is not bad. Shortening the arm will increase it, which, perhaps you want in Auto-X. I was told to shoot for .5° gain (per inch of travel).
Glad to see that you did well, regardless.

D Clary

04-15-2015, 10:16 AM

I did the same to my uppers, I could not get any camber otherwise.

ben1272

04-15-2015, 06:57 PM

Dang your car is quick! Those cones come up fast!

Tamra

04-15-2015, 08:15 PM

Dang your car is quick! Those cones come up fast!

Welcome to the forum!

When I first watched the video back without sound, I thought there was a glitch that was fast forwarding sections.. then I realized those were the sections where we could use the throttle! :) The car is super quick. We are hoping to get it out on a big, fast course this Sunday up in Ayer, MA.

Bob_n_Cincy

04-15-2015, 08:47 PM

Hi Tamra,
What is knocking at 13 seconds?
Quick hands at 29 second
Did you get a cone at the 41 second mark in the stopping zone?
Did I see some front tire braking smoke at 42 seconds?
Bob

Tamra

04-15-2015, 08:58 PM

13 sec: you're hearing the catch cans resonating through the metal tubes (or something else pinging through the frame).
29 sec: not quick enough to keep up with the car!
41 sec: yes, the stopping distance was way too short.
42 sec: yes you did! On the very last run of the day we adjusted the brake bias to take out some front and it was much better. The used c71's on the front were not heating up as well as the a6's and they tended to lock up easily.

Tamra

04-17-2015, 02:06 PM

We were able to get about ~-2 degrees of camber in the front and ~-3 in the rear (rear is wide open for adjustment though). We had to cut down the passenger a-arm more than the driver side for some reason, but they are now pretty equal on both sides.

Also, forgot to mention that at the last event we fuel starved mid corner and the car bump started itself on the straight when it got fuel again. The gauge was reading 3/4 full at the time, although we have been having problems with its accuracy (seems to fluctuate a bit). The car should have had about 10 gallons at time... We dumped in another 5, the gauge read full, and we did not have any further issues. A fuel cell is in our future...

Scargo

04-17-2015, 10:01 PM

Swirl pot or HydraMat as alternative?
More cutting on the UCA for more negative camber?

idf

04-18-2015, 07:56 AM

Welcome to the forum!

When I first watched the video back without sound, I thought there was a glitch that was fast forwarding sections.. then I realized those were the sections where we could use the throttle! :) The car is super quick. We are hoping to get it out on a big, fast course this Sunday up in Ayer, MA.

Sunday or Saturday? The Ayer site lists an autocross school Sat, nothing Sunday. I might try to make it up.

Hindsight

04-18-2015, 08:24 AM

Be careful of the fuel starvation. I would think it could pop a motor due to lean condition if it happened under full boost.

philly15

04-18-2015, 11:48 AM

We were able to get about ~-2 degrees of camber in the front and ~-3 in the rear (rear is wide open for adjustment though). We had to cut down the passenger a-arm more than the driver side for some reason, but they are now pretty equal on both sides.

i had the same issues as you both did with trying to get the negative camber i wanted. my goal was -2.5 to -3.0 so i had some wiggle room. I did the same basically cut each side of the shorter arm equal. This in addition to slotting the upper hole on the IFS bracket per suggestion from Wayne (didnt take much, i slotted it enough to get the stock cam bolt in for reference, then put the normal bolt back in and tightened it down) i was able to get -3.1 degrees per side. I am also having the fuel gauge issue, i only put in 5 gallons last fall, and mine is sitting at 3/4. That is probably my biggest complaint so far, due to the mentioned lean running issues by fuel starvation.

Tamra

04-18-2015, 09:28 PM

We went to the school at Devens today. Got a lot of seat time, learned some, and got to thoroughly shake down Bug. We estimate that between the two of us, the car had over 60 minutes of actual run time, including 24 hot laps of a ~50 sec course (no wait beyond 1 car, then go again).

The only gremlin we had was a CEL for the rear O2 (which we have disconnected). We thought it was deleted in the tune, and it hasn't caused a problem at the small local lot. However we were hitting full boost and full throttle today, a lot, so it must've triggered something. After the initial scare (idle went all over the place and had knock correction of -2), we figured it out and just had to clear the code every few runs. Annoying, but easy fix.
Post inter cooler temps stayed 99 and under even after sections of full boos, and 80 in grid. It was a little over 70 today. We started spraying the awic radiator with water during our hot laps and it worked great, reducing the temps to low 90s at WOT.

More to come tomorrow after the event. NER is hosting their first autox tomorrow, so IDF, you are welcome out!

We might have sound problems... Will have to see. Must stay under 90db at 75 feet.

Tamra

04-18-2015, 09:30 PM

Also, will respond to all of your questions tomorrow when we are on laptops! Tired of typing on an iPhone :)

Frank818

04-19-2015, 05:49 PM

So you have a spacer on the LCAs + you cut the threads of the UCAs?
Any pix of the cut threads (with the center bolt)?
You cut only the smaller threads or the one on the other side with the long bolt as well?

Tamra

04-19-2015, 09:56 PM

Just got home... exhausted but happy. I think I was 12th by raw out of 181 drivers today. Finally started to trust the car and tires in runs 4 and 5 (only 5 runs today). Such a blast - all went well. Will update more tomorrow but going to bed now.

Here's a video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dD8T1fgu3KY&

Scargo

04-20-2015, 08:27 AM

Pretty quick hands for a slow steering car! Good job! Can only get better. Perhaps you need to do some skid pad work at Lime Rock or similar?

xxguitarist

04-20-2015, 10:07 AM

Swirl pot or HydraMat as alternative?
More cutting on the UCA for more negative camber?

Either of those could help, but I wouldn't mind a little more room to slide the seat back for street driving, so switching to a smaller fuel cell either passenger side or front mounted would be nice.

Sunday or Saturday? The Ayer site lists an autocross school Sat, nothing Sunday. I might try to make it up.

We were up for a Starting Line school on Sat, stayed over for the event on Sunday.

Be careful of the fuel starvation. I would think it could pop a motor due to lean condition if it happened under full boost.

I was driving when it fuel starved. As soon as I realized what happened, I limped it back in at maintenance throttle (vac condition) & dumped 5 gal into it. It happened on throttle tip-in, so no boost yet. It can certainly blow an engine if it happens at the wrong time.

So you have a spacer on the LCAs + you cut the threads of the UCAs?
Any pix of the cut threads (with the center bolt)?
You cut only the smaller threads or the one on the other side with the long bolt as well?

Correct. Can snap some photos in the next day or two.
We cut both, though handling was odd with the fronts (long) bottomed out, so they are adjusted to similar to stock length now.
The short side, we had to cut the male & female parts to get them short enough while keeping the lock nuts.

Pretty quick hands for a slow steering car! Good job! Can only get better. Perhaps you need to do some skid pad work at Lime Rock or similar?
Saturday at the school, one of the drills was an oval. We got quite a good feel for the cornering abilities there, though that was on street tires. Big upgrade with the hoosiers.
Also, on a bigger course, the steering rack really wasn't a problem. It's dropped priority a LOT for us actually. The local courses this year have just been silly tight.

Tamra

04-20-2015, 10:48 AM

Also, just to add some more detail to Andrew's response:

We installed EBC Yellow brake pads this week. They got bedded in during the autocross school, and they work great. We had to adjust the brake bias toward the rear quite a bit, but the brakes now feel good and give a lot of feedback. People who are used to ABS still did not find them confidence inspiring (4 instructors drove a couple of runs each during the school), but with proper braking zones the pedal gives a lot of feedback and definitely has no problem stopping the car (but will lock up if pressed too hard). Also, no brake fade even when very hot. The instructors all had very positive feedback on the car and found it a blast to drive.

Alignment wise, we saw great tire wear. Yesterday I was at 26F, 25R, and still could have dropped more. A friend used a tire probe and found that the center of the tire on the front was running the hottest, followed by the inside (camber worked!), and coolest on the outside. We will have to experiment with pressures/camber to get more even temps. These were Hoosier A7's, 245/40/15's on 8" wheels. The front stuck like glue with the slightest understeer when going into a corner too hot.

The rear's were Hoosier A6's, 245/45/16's on 8" wheels. They ran noticeably hotter on the inside edge (100), pretty close on center (~98), and noticeably cooler on the outer (~88) - temps were checked < 5 minutes after a run. We might have to reduce the rear camber, and/or experiment with pressures. The car could definitely use more rear tire, as it was tough to put the power down (would light up the tires with much of any throttle).

Overall, the car was fun, easy to catch (to a certain point), predictable, and FAST. Careful application of the right foot was required. It's easy to catch to a certain point, but if pushed beyond that point a spin definitely happens (I spun 3 times during the school, all when I got greedy with the throttle. Did not spin during the race day). More rear tire would definitely be ideal.

Also, be prepared to answer questions allllllllllll day if any of you ever bring out an 818 (especially a naked one). It was overwhelming. We seriously couldn't see the car at times, based on the number of people crowded around. It was very fun to show it to everyone and we definitely met a lot of new people. The car gets a lot of attention (seriously, people taking photos while on the freeway, arms out the windows with phones and all).

Also, a BIG THANK YOU to Glyn (Scargo) for loaning us his trailer. It was so much easier to load up Bug (only two boards under the ramps) and we could actually drive onto the trailer rather than use a come along.

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/3960B77B-CABF-45CD-A0F6-42DD102F739F_zpsawzzte3v.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/3960B77B-CABF-45CD-A0F6-42DD102F739F_zpsawzzte3v.jpg.html)

Tamra

04-21-2015, 12:41 PM

Official results from Sunday are posted. I ended up 12th by raw out of 170 drivers that had times! Pretty good for a first outing with a big SCCA club! Andrew drove the S to get some extra prep for our up-coming pro solo.

The car has a lot more in it, between improving driver skill and prep. It's pretty exciting to see our hard work paying off.

http://sololive.ner.org/points%20event%201_raw.htm

The next month or two we will mostly be driving the S2000 in prep for some SCCA Pros and Tours that are coming up. Weeknights we will be working on our van (getting it ready for the long trips for the national events), and will start on body panels on the 818 soon. We are also scheduling an appointment to get our true speed density tune.

Scargo

04-21-2015, 01:05 PM

I'm surprised you couldn't get past the 1909 Mazda RX8.
Yes! Nice to see hard work and perseverance pay off.

Harley818

04-30-2015, 12:49 AM

nice results in your last outing.
Sounds like it handles well. Congrats.

You're ahead of me on having it running etc.
I just got my Prosport gauges today. Boost, elect oil temp and elect oil pressure.
What did you hook your oil pressure and temp gauges to? I don't recall whether you got mech or electric.

xxguitarist

04-30-2015, 06:23 AM

We have electric also.
Oil pressure is on the top of the engine, in one of the oil galley plugs w/ an adapter.
Oil temp is currently in the drain plug of the oil pan. Might switch to a weld-in bung at some point, if there's another reason for the oil pan to come off.. It's a little inconvenient, but not awful.

Can get pics of location and/or the # for the adapter parts we used if you need.

Hindsight

04-30-2015, 11:02 AM

On the top/front of the engine, there is a galley plug with an NPT adapter that the stock oil pressure switch hooks into. You can remove this if you are running an aftermarket pressure gauge. That frees up one spot. Then to the left of that plug (when looking at the engine from the front), there is an oil galley plug facing forward. You can use another oil galley NPT adapter fitting there for oil temp. That's what I'm doing anyway.

Harley818

04-30-2015, 04:54 PM

Thanks for the suggestions. I know the locations you are talking about. Does the removal of stock oil pressure switch cause any CEL codes or check engine lights?

D Clary

04-30-2015, 05:48 PM

sponaugle

04-30-2015, 07:47 PM

you will not get accurate oil tem readings from an oil galley, it needs to be in the oil pan, or reservoir if you have a dry sump. The oil galley dead heads into the sender and there is no flow, you end up with block temp.

This is an interesting theory. I thought the same thing.. however using the top ports on the EJ block do seem to work, at least better then I would expect. I have used both the front and rear ports, with the front port working a bit better (faster change).

I had the chance to measure the oil temp right before the cooler and the top of the block and there was not a significant difference, especially dynamically. I would agree that the readings should be a little less accurate due to low flow, but it was not as much of a problem as I thought it would be.

Jeff Sponaugle

Scargo

05-01-2015, 11:05 AM

I have had an adapter on this AVCS banjo fitting. Had a sensor there and then moved it to the back galley plug (by the large, PCV fitting) that I think others have mentioned.
41557

Tamra

05-08-2015, 11:21 AM

Sorry we've been MIA for the past while. We've spent the last few weeks getting our van up and running with some much needed maintenance. When we bought it, the previous owner disclosed a leaky radiator, so we went ahead and replaced it, the water pump, pulley, tensioner, serpentine belt, and a bunch of hoses while we were at it.

Perks of a van/truck: no jack needed.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/E2CCEC56-7754-4E60-A1A3-49A96E625A31_zpsvw9q6uzb.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/E2CCEC56-7754-4E60-A1A3-49A96E625A31_zpsvw9q6uzb.jpg.html)

Have you ever seen a fan so big, outside of a window fan???
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/7AD41963-68B1-4C36-B0DC-6E2E6F1CF227_zpssundf6sw.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/7AD41963-68B1-4C36-B0DC-6E2E6F1CF227_zpssundf6sw.jpg.html)

We also welded in some plates for some rust holes in the bed, from where the previous owner had shelving units drilled through the floor, with carpet over the top. Water would seep in and the carpet wouldn't dry, since it had a rubber mat material over the top. All of the bolt holes rusted through. So, we welded them up, and then applied Herculiner to the interior.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/59BCA4C9-61EC-4D0C-ACF5-39DD9D900C5D_zpsdhthckfu.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/59BCA4C9-61EC-4D0C-ACF5-39DD9D900C5D_zpsdhthckfu.jpg.html)

We also rebuilt the seats with new foam and covers.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/677425C5-2822-4856-9325-66AF4CFBB86B_zpspfizulso.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/677425C5-2822-4856-9325-66AF4CFBB86B_zpspfizulso.jpg.html)

This weekend we are going to an SCCA Pro Solo event, where we will be driving the S2000 CR. I had some fun doing some practice launches a few weeks ago, and Andrew caught a slow motion video of me.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=83WEqdmjWQ4

Next week, we have an appointment for an alignment, a true speed density tune, and we're going to put Bug on the scales. Then, body panels!!! It will be nice to finally put our attention back on the 818. The van has taken a lot longer than we anticipated.

Hindsight

05-08-2015, 11:26 AM

Nice, looks like you guys are setup!

Bob_n_Cincy

05-08-2015, 12:04 PM

Tamra,
Now you need two 818s.
Bob
41798

Scargo

05-08-2015, 01:58 PM

Tamra's NOT getting to drive either of my cars!

Tamra

05-12-2015, 12:03 AM

My launching practice paid off. I was 2nd place in L2 for a trophy at my first SCCA Pro Solo!! I also made it into the Ladies Challenge where I was eliminated in Go 1 to the ultimate overall champion, which I was totally fine with. It was so much fun to combine drag racing and autocross, but those Z06s are tough competition against the S2000 CR (both classed together believe it or not).

Glyn, for the record, I followed strict instructions from the car owner on specifically how to launch his S2000 :)

Tomorrow is dyno day at EFI Logics for the 818!! Speed Density stuff is all installed, fresh oil change, etc. It's supposed to be nearly 90 degrees tomorrow, so it will be a tough test. We will also be getting an alignment and put on the scales.

Canadian818

05-12-2015, 08:24 AM

Good luck today on the dyno. Very interested in your alignment specs and corner weights, there's not nearly enough of that info posted.

Hindsight

05-12-2015, 08:51 AM

Congrats on placing second!!

Frank818

05-12-2015, 12:36 PM

Good luck today on the dyno. Very interested in your alignment specs and corner weights, there's not nearly enough of that info posted.

I second all that!

wleehendrick

05-12-2015, 01:19 PM

Ricky Bobby says...

http://cdn.meme.am/instances/58538254.jpg

Just kidding... great job!

Tamra

05-12-2015, 02:15 PM

At EFI on the scales
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/85F261CA-39B3-425C-B711-B51542F4873D_zpsxakhvndp.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/85F261CA-39B3-425C-B711-B51542F4873D_zpsxakhvndp.jpg.html)

Our car is fat...

No driver, full tank of gas:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/7D1A9109-D2D3-41BB-8596-8A195BAE71C6_zpsqvuoxteh.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/7D1A9109-D2D3-41BB-8596-8A195BAE71C6_zpsqvuoxteh.jpg.html)

Me:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/F1F2ECDB-5C59-4162-A2A5-9C4978930F52_zpswlxtdjkq.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/F1F2ECDB-5C59-4162-A2A5-9C4978930F52_zpswlxtdjkq.jpg.html)

Andrew:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/29629BDC-57B2-4B1F-8845-C42091449887_zpsfwuwnaai.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/29629BDC-57B2-4B1F-8845-C42091449887_zpsfwuwnaai.jpg.html)

Alignment is done (will post stats later). Tune is up next.

Tamra

05-12-2015, 05:52 PM

Well our off brand donor car fuel pump gave out. We are going to switch to body panels, try to get the car registered, and then do a fuel cell. We couldn't finish the tune due to it.

Our alignment specs are -2 camber in the front and -3 rear. 1/16" toe in rear, 1/8" in front. We might end up dialing the front toe out (1 full turn on both sides increases toe by 1/8"), but our "home alignment" settings were even more toe in and felt good, so didn't want to do a drastic change.

metros

05-12-2015, 07:43 PM

I have a 255 Walbro off my donor that I can mail you, free of charge. Pm me your address and pay it forward.

Love your build and all the content you've posted.

sponaugle

05-12-2015, 08:35 PM

I have a 255 Walbro off my donor that I can mail you, free of charge. Pm me your address and pay it forward.

Love your build and all the content you've posted.

So do I if you need a spare.

Tamra

05-13-2015, 04:10 PM

Scargo

05-13-2015, 04:35 PM

Someone here did a fuel cell in the front and cut out a piece of tubing (bolting it back in) to make it happen.

Mechie3

05-13-2015, 05:57 PM

Bob n Cincy did the front fuel cell.

Bob_n_Cincy

05-13-2015, 09:36 PM

Wow, thank you guys!!! We will PM you soon... just trying to do a little research on fuel cells that will fit in the battery tray area. If we go that route we might not be able to use an in-tank fuel pump, per my understanding. Let me pass it by Andrew and I'll get back to you soon.

You guys are what make the FFR forums such a great place to be a part of :)

Hi Tamra,
I search pretty hard for a bladder type fuel cell for the front of the car.
I could not find one that fit and had the capacity we wanted.
So I designed a tank using the Subaru pump assembly.
I have a cylinder type gauge sending unit. Full of foam. 14 gallons to the brim. 13 gallon usable.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12534-MRG-MotorSports-818S-Build&p=166601&viewfull=1#post166601

DMC7492 also did a similar tank.
Bob

Scargo

05-14-2015, 06:39 AM

Auto-X... How big does it need to be? Boyd two gallon (http://www.fueltankparts.com/index.php/2-gallon-vertical.html). $129.
41940

metalmaker12

05-14-2015, 08:05 AM

Tamra

05-14-2015, 08:21 AM

I would go with a bigger pump, over 300hp the factory one is ahhh

We had a 255, it just wasn't a Walbro. For our initial tune, and the beginning of our tune on Tuesday, it was holding up fine, but then something got unhappy and it just wasn't sucking enough fuel for higher rpm's and it was leaning out. It wasn't the injectors, and we checked all of the hoses to make sure everything looked good, so EFI felt that the pump is just going out. It's still fine for low rpm stuff (for now), but not safe to drive aggressively.

What is your guys' opinion on an intank fuel pump vs an inline fuel pump? It seems most of the fuel cells, including the one Glyn linked to, are set up for inline pumps. If you want an in-tank pump, do you just cut an opening? Bob, is that what you guys did?

Scargo

05-14-2015, 09:14 AM

A little help. I know you and Andrew do your homework and are not dummies, but perhaps I can add something.
http://www.mopacautosupply.com/fuelcalculators/fuelcalculators.htm Very comprehensive.
http://witchhunter.com/injectorcalc1.php similar to above.
http://www.enginelogics.com/fuel-pump-sizing/ Very good and comprehensive on sizing a pump.
A good NASIOC read on fuel system upgrades. (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1218460)

Now, my STi experience: 395 AWHP on Injector Dynamics 1200's and in-tank Walbro 255. Only required 35-37 PSI at idle (regulated by Aeromotive 13109 A1000-6 Injected Bypass Regulator with liquid-filled gauge (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005L3FPUG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on it). It is done on 93 octane with Torco to achieve an effective 100 octane fuel.

If there is any trick to my setup it is that I removed any and all restrictions in the metal fuel lines so there is nothing smaller that appx. 5/16" ID. Since it's metric I think it may be a nominal 8mm. At the stock fuel line connectors I attached Russell EFI push-on fuel line connector to AN adapters (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-644110). Then I ran Boomba rails and -6AN braided fuel line everywhere.
It is important not to over power the injectors with an oversized pump since the unused fuel recirculates. Too much volume and the fuel can heat with *too much recirculation. Also important is big enough injectors so the duty cycle is within norms for best performance. I'm sure you know that, or it was discussed during the tune.
A Bosch 044, inline fuel pump, is a good one but is probably overkill*.

Bob_n_Cincy

05-14-2015, 10:39 AM

What is your guys' opinion on an intank fuel pump vs an inline fuel pump? It seems most of the fuel cells, including the one Glyn linked to, are set up for inline pumps. If you want an in-tank pump, do you just cut an opening? Bob, is that what you guys did?

Hi Tamra,
I went with the in-tank pump because that is what most OEM do. They should know.

I designed my tank with the Subaru pump in mind and had Boyd build it to my drawing.
FFR new tank is using a similar Subaru cutout in their new tank design.
I don't like the width of the FFR tank because anything north of 1G you will be sucking air with less than a 1/2 tank of gas.
Running pumps dry will cause them to fail.

Michael and I have used 10 gallons of gas at an autocross test n tune. Yes, we run the snot out of the car all day.

Here is my tank design. It fits very tight. Use my dimensions as reference only.
Bob

41941

Tamra

05-14-2015, 11:03 AM

We'd be fine with a smaller tank and just refilling. How much does Boyd charge to customize?

I think this one could be a good option. I think it would even fit without cutting the cross bars:
http://www.fueltankparts.com/5-gallon-rfh.html

But it looks like it'd need a cut-out for the in-tank pump and a sending unit.

I think a Walbro 255 would meet our power goals, combined with our ID1000 injectors. Although, EFI said we could just go for the Walbro 460 while we're buying a new pump since it's not much extra. But considering Metro and Sponaugle's offers, I'm not sure it would be worth it if we didn't need it.

Scargo

05-14-2015, 12:07 PM

I was looking for a very vertical tank for you that held less than five gallons. Like a swirl tank/swirl pot. There are a few under $100 but not many. You could put a translucent line on the outside to show the fuel level or use a dipstick.
Because of foam rendering my float useless I am using a siphon-like tube with marks on it. I insert it and blow. When I hear it bubbling I have an idea of how much gas is in my tank. I can go down to 1/8 tank or just a couple of gallons. My buddies have to run a half-tank or more per session.
Some pumps must be immersed in fuel to stay cool. Therein lies the problem of over-circulating and running the fuel too low. Some BMW in-tank pumps failed when you ran low or out of gas! Ask me how I know! :o

Bob_n_Cincy

05-14-2015, 12:09 PM

We'd be fine with a smaller tank and just refilling. How much does Boyd charge to customize?

My Tank was $400.
Bob

Tamra

05-14-2015, 03:52 PM

We've put it off long enough. Time for body panels!!

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/12AFF11C-2867-4157-9DB6-018202038F78_zps72iahvwn.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/12AFF11C-2867-4157-9DB6-018202038F78_zps72iahvwn.jpg.html)

AZPete

05-14-2015, 05:56 PM

But, what's the new name? With body panels "Bug" doesn't fit any more.

Tamra

05-14-2015, 06:05 PM

Still looks like a bug to me :)

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/F8BC718C-5EF8-4FF1-94C2-75D2094BC1D8_zps1hfl48yy.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/F8BC718C-5EF8-4FF1-94C2-75D2094BC1D8_zps1hfl48yy.jpg.html)

Tamra

05-14-2015, 06:06 PM

On another note, Andrew really shouldn't go to work when I have a half day off...

ben1272

05-14-2015, 07:04 PM

Harley818

05-14-2015, 07:57 PM

Good luck with the fitting. SepEx, Bobncincy and I are all about the same point and we have been documenting the process to take a read...... hopefully will help you.
I have body #100 and I have it set up without forcing it.

metalmaker12

05-14-2015, 09:05 PM

We had a 255, it just wasn't a Walbro. For our initial tune, and the beginning of our tune on Tuesday, it was holding up fine, but then something got unhappy and it just wasn't sucking enough fuel for higher rpm's and it was leaning out. It wasn't the injectors, and we checked all of the hoses to make sure everything looked good, so EFI felt that the pump is just going out. It's still fine for low rpm stuff (for now), but not safe to drive aggressively.

What is your guys' opinion on an intank fuel pump vs an inline fuel pump? It seems most of the fuel cells, including the one Glyn linked to, are set up for inline pumps. If you want an in-tank pump, do you just cut an opening? Bob, is that what you guys did?

Sounds like to maxed out the stock regulator and it's not the pump. I maxed my stock FPR out. Check fuel pressure, I bet it's high. 43.5 key on like 37-38 idle is spec. I now ran all AN lines/fittings , Aeromotive FPR/ Radium gauge, Pro products fuel filter Aermotive pump , ID 1000's and Radium fuel rails. It is perfect now and I can tune again.

Also hard wire the pump, the factory controller sucks and can be broken and cause you headaches

Tamra

05-14-2015, 09:21 PM

I hope you have good luck fitting your panels. I'm sure you will do a nice job! I look forward to seeing your car all buttoned up, although I really like looking at all the mechanicals.....its too bad they are not easily seen once the body goes on. I have been thinking about how I would adapt the rear deck lid to include a clear window to view the engine bay. Way back in the day a Ferrari tuner called Koenig did this with the Testarossa...I have been in love with the idea ever since (later Ferrari did it with the F40 - penultimate competition Ferrari!). Follow this link to a post with a magazine article with photos. Interestingly, the Testarossa engine was like a 3x Subaru (horizontally opposed 12 cylinder!) I always liked the Testarossa side-mirrors too.

http://tuninghistory.com/blog/koenig-specials/1401.html

That would be awesome! I love that idea. It seems like it could be difficult to implement though... if you come up with an idea, I think it would be a hit with everyone.

Good luck with the fitting. SepEx, Bobncincy and I are all about the same point and we have been documenting the process to take a read...... hopefully will help you.
I have body #100 and I have it set up without forcing it.

Thanks Harley! Yup, I think we will be combing all of your build threads over the coming weeks.

For now, the front went on fairly well. The fenders are a little bit forward of the side sails currently, so some trimming of the bumper might have to happen to shift things back. The side sails are not 5/8" back yet either - they are about flush. The front bumper has a piece that is hitting the AWIC slightly, but it does bend around it. We might trim that a bit.

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/FBA9017A-5BEC-45C6-B37E-BD4AB4DD8EB0_zpswwfclh7g.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/FBA9017A-5BEC-45C6-B37E-BD4AB4DD8EB0_zpswwfclh7g.jpg.html)

The rear on the other hand, will require some work... definitely will need to trim around the roll bar like we've seen everyone else do, and everything is kind of bent up (rear decklid) or sagging (between the hoops). It seems, for now, to be positioned about right with the side sails though, despite them being further forward than the manual says. The cutout for the exhaust is temporary and will be completely different, don't worry :)
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/C35EFDEF-96DB-454D-9A4D-E7DBCB22C237_zpsegk5jxve.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/C35EFDEF-96DB-454D-9A4D-E7DBCB22C237_zpsegk5jxve.jpg.html)

Tamra

05-14-2015, 09:28 PM

Sounds like to maxed out the stock regulator and it's not the pump. I maxed my stock FPR out. Check fuel pressure, I bet it's high. 43.5 key on like 37-38 idle is spec. I now ran all AN lines/fittings , Aeromotive FPR/ Radium gauge, Pro products fuel filter Aermotive pump , ID 1000's and Radium fuel rails. It is perfect now and I can tune again.

Also hard wire the pump, the factory controller sucks and can be broken and cause you headaches

The thing is, is that when he backed it off to where our original tune was, it didn't improve. I would think if the FPR was getting maxed out at the higher boost level, then it would be fine when returned to the previous tune.

Harley818

05-15-2015, 12:03 AM

Just so you don't make the same mistake I made, the 5/8 dimension is measured from the curve of the side step panel not the front edge trimmed by FFR. They show this measurement in the manual. Mine is 7/8 back.
Also with my rears set to this distance, and the front bolted on, the front wheels are centered in the wheel-well. Any further forward and the front wheels wouldn't be centered correctly... and there is no adjustment.
With this location I didn't have to trim the roll bar, and my front bumper is right back against the steel frame. Only problem with this set up - the rear trunk is about 3/8 short and I'll have to build it up a bit to fit the gap. I am really happy with this set up. Drilled and installed riv-nuts tonight on the drivers side sail.

Tamra

05-15-2015, 12:50 PM

Thanks for tip, Harley. I would have made the same mistake on the 5/8" dimension. I'll take some measurements later tonight.

AZPete

05-15-2015, 01:49 PM

" . . . definitely will need to trim around the roll bar like we've seen everyone else do"
Tamra, not everyone. Positioning of the side sails is critical and the 5/8" is just a starting point because you may want to move the sides back enough to clear the roll bars and move the front parts backwards to fit. Don't cut anything until you try adjusting everything.

Harley818

05-15-2015, 03:25 PM

...........What Pete said!.......exactly!

I spent a couple hours here and there for 2 weeks trying to get things to fit.
Then I finally spent a Saturday 4 hours straight and nailed it...... all described in my thread and I posted it on the sticky for body tips.

metalmaker12

05-15-2015, 04:41 PM

You gotta check idle fuel pressure, if it's off you can't tune. If your base tune is not working it's obviously a mechanical issue, but not always the pump. Check fuel pressure pump on and at idle than post your results.

Tamra

05-16-2015, 10:06 PM

About 5 hours into fitting the body and we are pretty happy. See below for some photos - what do you guys think? See any problems we are missing?

First problem we found was that we didn't plan our exhaust around the tail lights... whoops. We'll have to rotate it back (thankful we used v-bands), and then just re-weld on a new exit angle. We have enough space to get at least 3" further back.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/FFE27C15-A7F1-44C9-A7DE-D2E20B7729FE_zps4mwlwlxm.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/FFE27C15-A7F1-44C9-A7DE-D2E20B7729FE_zps4mwlwlxm.jpg.html)

So onto the body.

I set the sidesails the same on both sides:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/41ED5834-A1F4-4F50-93FE-FC113FB317FC_zpsrwucbi22.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/41ED5834-A1F4-4F50-93FE-FC113FB317FC_zpsrwucbi22.jpg.html)

The rear is okay. We don't love the decklid - it is made way too thick, and it is slightly too wide at the bumper meeting points. This piece will be replaced with lexan at a later date (Ben1272 - we liked your idea, so we are going to do it! Just the decklid though). We're not going to be OCD on this piece since it will be replaced later.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/D9D3AA35-E705-4A9F-A82A-3D961B682AF4_zpshbyqnoel.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/D9D3AA35-E705-4A9F-A82A-3D961B682AF4_zpshbyqnoel.jpg.html)

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/9B400C48-2CC1-4B8D-BA08-79F6468F459E_zpsy88ufpym.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/9B400C48-2CC1-4B8D-BA08-79F6468F459E_zpsy88ufpym.jpg.html)
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/2E3C0C47-7263-4231-84FB-6DD3D6F09A0E_zpstoqcq6jj.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/2E3C0C47-7263-4231-84FB-6DD3D6F09A0E_zpstoqcq6jj.jpg.html)
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/B7D479EB-664A-4619-BA38-172A4867C7DB_zpstr4ybnax.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/B7D479EB-664A-4619-BA38-172A4867C7DB_zpstr4ybnax.jpg.html)

Tamra

05-16-2015, 10:07 PM

Moving onto the front end, we had to clearance the bumper to get it far enough back. It hit the radiator frame. We did something similar to Michael Everson's Thread. (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11400-Replicaparts-com-818-build-thread&p=127343&viewfull=1#post127343)

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/42B176E4-1C14-4418-8F12-E11E91EDF580_zpsjhorzmfm.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/42B176E4-1C14-4418-8F12-E11E91EDF580_zpsjhorzmfm.jpg.html)

Things kind of fell together fairly well after that. Just a little trimming on the fender flange near the windshield frame, and on the inside corners of the fenders near the tires (again just the flange).
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/B684FA3E-33C5-44EB-BA44-AE9E2A43C798_zpsksqctaqa.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/B684FA3E-33C5-44EB-BA44-AE9E2A43C798_zpsksqctaqa.jpg.html)
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/DBD6464A-485A-47AB-BB46-19C011E8CAA2_zpsqs2iwacz.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/DBD6464A-485A-47AB-BB46-19C011E8CAA2_zpsqs2iwacz.jpg.html)

The corners meet up fairly well, not perfect.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/539F2F75-E170-4B59-B5C2-63530B0466F4_zpsz3rfe5f8.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/539F2F75-E170-4B59-B5C2-63530B0466F4_zpsz3rfe5f8.jpg.html)

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/AB58EC3B-E4E5-445B-ADB1-CE770637C20A_zpsagkrawsw.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/AB58EC3B-E4E5-445B-ADB1-CE770637C20A_zpsagkrawsw.jpg.html)

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/4B2593DF-72A6-4379-9C54-ED7A9567CEE7_zpsthcd0i2p.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/4B2593DF-72A6-4379-9C54-ED7A9567CEE7_zpsthcd0i2p.jpg.html)

We set the door in place to make sure it looked okay.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/E0A38623-4A96-4FDC-BEA7-63ECB26148E3_zpsj5rxasnx.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/E0A38623-4A96-4FDC-BEA7-63ECB26148E3_zpsj5rxasnx.jpg.html)

Tamra

05-16-2015, 10:08 PM

This is our ride height just behind the front wheel.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/A907830C-7B98-40C7-9B2F-68AC01D952E4_zpso3n9svre.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/A907830C-7B98-40C7-9B2F-68AC01D952E4_zpso3n9svre.jpg.html)

The lowest part of the front bumper:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/90CBDB91-EF01-4D0A-920C-41405033B61F_zpsegtvovcr.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/90CBDB91-EF01-4D0A-920C-41405033B61F_zpsegtvovcr.jpg.html)

As it starts to arc up:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/B8450233-1BFB-4274-826F-D952F10229B1_zpsctnpbesh.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/B8450233-1BFB-4274-826F-D952F10229B1_zpsctnpbesh.jpg.html)

The tallest center point of the front bumper:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/88604BEA-403E-48BF-87FE-DB93DEFD58B9_zpsdbfezjeh.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/88604BEA-403E-48BF-87FE-DB93DEFD58B9_zpsdbfezjeh.jpg.html)

And just for fun :)
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/02792268-D41E-45A5-8113-29C618ABE436_zpsn1onvqgr.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/02792268-D41E-45A5-8113-29C618ABE436_zpsn1onvqgr.jpg.html)

The rear wheels are fairly well centered. The front is off by about 1 finger width, but not much we can do about it so we won't stress.

What do you guys think? See any forseeable problems?

Scargo

05-17-2015, 08:21 AM

My only comment would be that the front wheel is pretty-well fixed while the rear wheel can move forward or backwards. Might consider adjusting the rear to fit visually after centering the front in the opening.

Tamra

05-17-2015, 08:37 AM

The rear wheel can move forward or backwards, but that would be changing the traction level of the rear. EFI said that adjusting the bar longer, gives less grip to the rear, shorter = more rear grip. Essentially, you can use it to tune on throttle oversteer vs understeer on corner exit by controlling weight shift.

We have the rear bar set approximately where we think we want it right now, but we don't want to focus on setting the body to it, as it could change in the future as we fine tune the setup. Incidentally, our rear fender wells are centered.

Also, to shift the body back would cause a lot of trimming to have to happen with the hood. As it is right now, we are already going to have to space up the fenders, and we trimmed the fender lips to be able to move them in to meet the hood.

Side note, reading the CT DMV regs, it states "Lowest section of sprung components must not be less than 4" off the ground." So looks like we'll have to raise the front about 1/4". The rear is already at 4".

Tamra

05-17-2015, 10:06 AM

Has anyone had this problem? We cannot get the fuel filler lined up at all.

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/5F764196-C801-45F0-B7E6-49F226EC8B0D_zpsxzc1wi2f.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/5F764196-C801-45F0-B7E6-49F226EC8B0D_zpsxzc1wi2f.jpg.html)

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/54355A55-6B5D-47F2-B45E-32A58A8CB169_zpsxcacfiqt.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/54355A55-6B5D-47F2-B45E-32A58A8CB169_zpsxcacfiqt.jpg.html)

Hindsight

05-17-2015, 12:01 PM

Frank818

05-18-2015, 03:23 PM

For the side sails, is that tape showing 8" dead or more like 7-7/8"? I know on picture it's very easy to have an angle and show the wrong number.

Frank818

05-18-2015, 06:13 PM

Has anyone had this problem? We cannot get the fuel filler lined up at all.

Mine is 3" too far back, if I spring it forward it barely reaches the hole, but it does. I'll find a way to support the tube's tension into that location.

TrickyPete

05-18-2015, 07:18 PM

Is it possible the outlet tube on the tank isn't square? It looks as though if it was tilted downwards even a little it would cause a big difference at the top of the tube.

Tamra

05-18-2015, 10:56 PM

A: Wow, when you guys get to work, you make it happen quick. Lots of people spend months on body fitting and you are mostly done in a day or two.
B: I had the side sails and rear bumper installed the other day to figure out where to put my oil cooler, intake, and a few other things. During that time I tried to pre-fit the fuel filler. I had about the same issue though it was harder for me to be sure since I didn't have the side sails properly measured in position, nor did I have the fuel filler connected on the bottom of the tank. But all that said, mine looked like it might be off by a bit. I won't truly know until everything has been measured in position though.

Thanks! We try :). When we installed the headlights it did mess with the front end a bit, so that will take a little more time to sort out. I'm out of town at a work training this week, so progress might slow on the body panels until I return.

For the side sails, is that tape showing 8" dead or more like 7-7/8"? I know on picture it's very easy to have an angle and show the wrong number.

It's a little shy of 8". Basically, the side sails are pressed as far forward as they will go without trimming the panel around the door bracket. It seems like it's positioned about right, so we have not seen a need to trim... yet.

Mine is 3" too far back, if I spring it forward it barely reaches the hole, but it does. I'll find a way to support the tube's tension into that location.

Is it possible the outlet tube on the tank isn't square? It looks as though if it was tilted downwards even a little it would cause a big difference at the top of the tube.

Ours sits too high to bend the rubber hose enough, and when we pull on the actual filler neck, it puts a lot of strain on it to get it even halfway lined up (I think we would risk pulling it out of the bottom if we forced it to line up). Andrew posted a thread asking about it on the fuel forum. Hopefully some solutions come out of it, as it is a bit perplexing!

D Clary

05-19-2015, 02:24 PM

42044I epoxied an aluminum rod to the inside lip of the trunk to hold the shape.

David

05-19-2015, 10:25 PM

Congrats you two! Awesome to see a husband and wife team building a car to autocross... Mary and I autocrossed our FFR for over a decade and it was an incredible experience to race a car built with your own hands. Best of luck, looking forward to following your build!

David

Hindsight

05-25-2015, 02:30 PM

I can't remember if you solved your fuel filler neck issue but having just installed mine today, I took some pics for you so you can compare yours to mine. Mine appears that it will align just fine:

http://i.imgur.com/X19NoUwh.jpg (http://imgur.com/X19NoUw)
http://i.imgur.com/nBOwbTwh.jpg (http://imgur.com/nBOwbTw)
http://i.imgur.com/6wuX4rCh.jpg (http://imgur.com/6wuX4rC)

Tamra

05-25-2015, 06:04 PM

Thanks Hindsight. Andrew was able to bend a brake line clip out of the way, and we can now force it to line up without too much pressure. It's still not great. Perhaps we didn't get the filler neck into the hose as much, maybe we changed the angle slightly when we put the pads under the fuel tank (squeak reduction), or perhaps the design changed a little (because yours looks waaaay better, although the tubing looks the same). Either way, it will be fine for inspection, and then we'll swap to the front fuel cell.

Hindsight

05-25-2015, 06:37 PM

Glad you got it sorted. Did you put pads under the tank because there WAS squeaking, or because you figured there might be? I was on the fence about it and am hoping I get away without it.

Tamra

05-25-2015, 06:46 PM

Only because we figured it might squeak (when we wiggled it by hand it was squeaky). Plus it is a pain to remove, so we didn't want to have to go back and touch it again. So much for that though... since we are going to get rid of the tank entirely lol.

Tamra

05-26-2015, 11:59 AM

Body panel fitting is coming along. When we put the headlights in the buckets, nothing fit anymore.

We used a heat gun and changed the shape of the plastic buckets a bit to get the headlights to sit further down. That took awhile, but we got them fairly good. Still have some gaps along the edges, but we'll likely fill them with rubber strip or silicone. I'm thinking Bobncincy's method would have been easier to start with in hindsight, but we got it anyhow.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/EE7C35BD-853B-4A06-BA1E-4530ACEFA201_zps7paaxnue.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/EE7C35BD-853B-4A06-BA1E-4530ACEFA201_zps7paaxnue.jpg.html)

We also had to do some fairly severe trimming to the bumper. Even if our AWIC wouldn't have been there, it still would have required fitting. If you look in the manual, although they don't mention it, their bumper is trimmed too.

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/4C0B44DA-933D-4F57-A6BA-22A82D6AC033_zpsbarmp8qm.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/4C0B44DA-933D-4F57-A6BA-22A82D6AC033_zpsbarmp8qm.jpg.html)

Another thing not mentioned, but pictured in the manual, is that they trimmed the fender tabs to fit over the headlights a little better. We did the same and it did help.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/B9E0D64E-2E32-4133-B469-4EDA80D59BF4_zpsafzratt9.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/B9E0D64E-2E32-4133-B469-4EDA80D59BF4_zpsafzratt9.jpg.html)

We are pretty happy with the fitment. Wish the bumper would sit a little bit more flush, but it's pretty good as is.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/BB318AE1-6B21-4EF0-AE5F-81E89DEDB3DA_zpsv5nsfnq0.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/BB318AE1-6B21-4EF0-AE5F-81E89DEDB3DA_zpsv5nsfnq0.jpg.html)

We will have to space up the fenders near the windshield to meet the hood. It's almost like the hood needs to sit 3 or 4" past the bumper (buck teeth anyone?). However, with spacing the fenders up to meet the hood, it looks pretty good, and they still (barely) reach the side sails.

Also, our headlight support is currently sitting on top of the tabs (the flange part of the bumper is lifting it up 1/2"), so we will have to trim the tabs (hopefully that doesn't mess up the alignment too much, but if it does we'll space it up too). We will also have to add an aluminum bar to attach the front of the bumper to, as it does not reach the radiator support (similar to everyone else's build thread we've read through).

The front end has not been fun, but we are getting ready to start fastening things permanently this week.

Hindsight

05-26-2015, 12:13 PM

Tamra

05-26-2015, 12:22 PM

Looking nice, and that's a great idea on using a heat gun on the headlight buckets! I will have to try that if I make it that far in my build ;)

I see some duct tape sealing off your AWIC exchanger to your radiator. Let me know if you come up with a more permanent solution because I keep wondering what I'm going to use there. There was a thread awhile back where someone mentioned EPP foam from McMaster.

IF you get that point? I have no doubt that you will :)

haha yes, we do have duct tape currently. It's effective, but not permanent. Our #1 priority right now is getting it to the DMV to get registered, so we'll worry about permanent air ducting afterward. I think Andrew has some ideas...

TrickyPete

05-26-2015, 12:50 PM

I tried the heat gun and quickly stopped before I got too carried away. It melts it quick and me being a noob with a heat gun would have completely ruined them if I didn't stop. Haha

Tamra

05-28-2015, 08:57 PM

We attached the fenders to the side sails with rivnuts, bolted the headlights to the bumper/buckets, bolted the bumper/headlights to the frame, bolted on the hood pin brackets, and bolted the fenders to the outside edge of the bumper. Things are going together nicely (with some effort)!

So far we've had to trim around the eyelids of the fenders, where they were hitting the top of the headlight (and the bottom of the headlights will need some silicone fill to smooth out the inconsistent gaps). We have also smoothed out the roughness between the fender and the outer bumper connection to get an even connection point, trimmed the flanges very aggressively on the fender/bumper near the tire, and trimmed the flanges on the fenders near the windshield frame, and a little bit near the point of the hood to get them to look the same on both sides.

Next up are riveting the fenders to the hood pin brackets, bolting the fenders to the bumper (point near radiator), fenders to frame near the windshield, the front of the nose to the radiator frame (picked up some L bracket aluminum we're going to use), and then the hood. Then the front end will be done! After registration, we will be cleaning up the rough edges a bit, and later doing a wrap, but for now we're doing our best to ignore them.

Here are a few photos. Let us know if you see anything to be concerned about, or have any recommendations.

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/2A50526B-441D-4E46-B7F6-ED090C07E214_zpsldfemii0.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/2A50526B-441D-4E46-B7F6-ED090C07E214_zpsldfemii0.jpg.html)
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/FA9BF5E8-9E64-40D6-9909-363E3CF5674A_zpsp4vkjps2.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/FA9BF5E8-9E64-40D6-9909-363E3CF5674A_zpsp4vkjps2.jpg.html)
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/2DE23285-F79A-4909-B01A-B166A1974D89_zpszlcnb2bv.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/2DE23285-F79A-4909-B01A-B166A1974D89_zpszlcnb2bv.jpg.html)
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/D424AABB-508D-4E89-A3B6-373ABA164F1D_zpsenj1flpe.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/D424AABB-508D-4E89-A3B6-373ABA164F1D_zpsenj1flpe.jpg.html)
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/E5125BE1-1D01-4ED9-A46E-611EC3A313A0_zps0oi1pock.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/E5125BE1-1D01-4ED9-A46E-611EC3A313A0_zps0oi1pock.jpg.html)

Tamra

05-28-2015, 09:14 PM

Also, a huge thank you to Metros for sending us a Walbro fuel pump!!!

RM1SepEx

05-29-2015, 01:35 PM

Tamra, your fenders are sitting very high at the front edge where they meet the nose piece, your headlight buckets are too high in the front. I need to clean up the interfane area, I added gel coat and will sand and polish it to match the nose...

42285

Tamra

05-29-2015, 01:53 PM

The fenders aren't bolted down yet, that's just where they sit naturally over the rubber trim on the headlights. With slight pressure they sit relatively flush (not perfect, but hey, it is a race car. Our goal is for it to not look like a kit car, but we also don't need it to look like a show car either).

I played with the headlights a bit and this was where they sat best with the best compromise of headlight gaps and fender/bumper/hood meetup. It is a big challenge.

Your car is looking fantastic, btw!!

Mechie3

05-29-2015, 02:13 PM

My only recommendation is to use some 10-32 rivnuts and screws to hold things in place instead of having to drill out rivets all the time. My fenders/front bumper have been on and off so many times all ready.

RM1SepEx

05-29-2015, 03:37 PM

Thanks for the compliments Tamra, like Craig everything has been on and off so many times, I riv nut or tap the frame everywhere that I can... I use 10-24 riv nuts and tap 10-32 in the frame since the walls are thin

right now I'm frustrated, my engine has developed a knock and my John Deere tractor wont start, solenoid not kicking in and its UNDER the freaking Onan twin engine. The damn lawn needs to be mowed yesterday... Picking up a parts mower to have an extra deck tomorrow AM. Looks like the snow blower is coming off the other tractor.

I can't keep up!

Tamra

05-29-2015, 04:57 PM

Your engine developed a knock?!?!?!?!?!? What happened?? I hope it's nothing major... but that doesn't sound good.

Good advice on the rivnuts. We'll make sure to do that on the lower part of the bumper and in as many places as we can, especially since we're planning on taking off the body right after inspection to do our fuel tank...

Also, I spoke with the DMV today to get some more information on our soon approaching inspection. Thankfully the CT DMV does not require an appointment, so it's just pressure on us to get there soon.

A few things we will need to add:

We will need a red reflector on the sides of the rear (stick on is fine, must be red).
We need a bumper on both ends of the car. The bumper can be bolted on, and needs to extend to within 6 inches of the sides of the car (that could be a challenge in the front). It needs to be between 16-22" off the ground. It should be able to survive a 2.5-5mph impact (they'd better not plan on testing that one!).
They will need to see the serial numbers for both the transmission and the engine... whoops, painted over the transmission sticker. We'll have to figure that one out. The engine is engraved.
We have it in writing (email) that our KPH dash will pass. Hopefully that will hold true.
The guy said not having FMVSS 209 certified seat belts is one of the top reasons he has to fail cars. We purchased our $$ Schroth ones specifically for this reason.

Hopefully we have been checking the list thoroughly enough. The inspection department sounded nice and they're excited to see the 818. The guy looked up photos online while we were on the phone, and he went over things he could see that our car would need (red reflectors for example). Hopefully we will be prepared enough and pass the first try.

Andrew has to work a lot this weekend on a big project at work... so I'm going solo. Heading to the garage now. Hope I don't mess anything up!

Tamra

05-30-2015, 06:24 PM

Can someone help me with this please?

It seems like the manual shows that there should be a tab on our rear bumper to attach the hood pin through, but we don't have anything like that. I didn't see anything in the manual revisions about it. How does the rear deck lid hood pin attach?

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/319FFC6A-325C-45C3-A12E-AF21A46FB77B_zpsr1ddumhi.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/319FFC6A-325C-45C3-A12E-AF21A46FB77B_zpsr1ddumhi.jpg.html)

RM1SepEx

05-30-2015, 06:57 PM

I was just at fellow builder TrickyPete's and his is missing the tab too. I made my own out of 1/8 aluminum stock and mounted them to the side panels vs. the rear clip.

The reflectors should be in your kit, red rectangles IIRC

Scargo

05-30-2015, 07:48 PM

I think FFR destroyed all the tabs trying to make that photo of someone using an auger bit on fiberglass. Just a hunch. I don't have tabs. I am no help...

Tamra

05-30-2015, 09:50 PM

Thanks so much, Dan and Glyn (mostly LOL @ Glyn, you have a point). We'll make a bracket.

Today I got the front end fully buttoned down, with the exception of the hood (wanted to wait on hood pins until Andrew could help), the side sails are riveted (we will rivnut them the next time they come off), and the rear bumper is fully bolted on as well. I did have to file the engine cover around the roll bar to make it fit better, and a friend came over and helped cut the L bracket to space the front bumper from the radiator frame. We used rivnuts to attach the bumper to the L-bracket, and bolted the L-bracket to the frame. Our friend Tim also came over and helped me out for part of the afternoon, and when Andrew got home around 7, we all went out and stuffed ourselves with good sushi.

Andrew is back for working on it tomorrow. I'm pretty proud of myself for A) not messing anything up and B) actually accomplishing stuff on my own last night and today. I'm also glad we had friends that came over to help me out this afternoon. Progress + good friends + good sushi = great day.

Tamra

05-30-2015, 10:36 PM

Time lapse of body panels!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cMdscpuwRU&

Tamra

05-31-2015, 08:40 PM

Front end body panels are done!

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/739F9727-B74E-4289-92C8-3E8E86CB383C_zps2vwqd1tf.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/739F9727-B74E-4289-92C8-3E8E86CB383C_zps2vwqd1tf.jpg.html)

Took a little trimming on the windshield side of the hood edges to get them to lie flat. The windshield is ~33.5" from the roll bar at the center point.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/199087F2-2DD8-4CFC-9631-F841C78007DC_zps8z8mryqq.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/199087F2-2DD8-4CFC-9631-F841C78007DC_zps8z8mryqq.jpg.html)

Our offset overhead light makes the gaps on left vs right look different from the shadow, but they are actually pretty even on both sides.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/88E65E82-5769-4C5E-A9BC-DA7E932E95F6_zpsw4684gyz.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/88E65E82-5769-4C5E-A9BC-DA7E932E95F6_zpsw4684gyz.jpg.html)

We're not quite as happy with the fitment of the driver side fender/hood/bumper. The fender needs to be clearanced a little more on the top of the eyelid, where it's touching the headlight, and preventing the fender from getting quite as close to the hood as we'd like. When the panels come back off for the fuel tank we'll do that. It's more noticeable in person. In the meantime, this is our "B" graded side.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/8F6874F6-7B3C-45DF-AF35-1B0AD33DFB68_zpsppy7vgjn.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/8F6874F6-7B3C-45DF-AF35-1B0AD33DFB68_zpsppy7vgjn.jpg.html)

This is the side we are happier with.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/E9DF2329-C184-41A5-A77C-7C3A84A5A864_zpspzg6t5px.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/E9DF2329-C184-41A5-A77C-7C3A84A5A864_zpspzg6t5px.jpg.html)

The hood is relatively flush, and we haven't clearanced it yet for the button head screws on the fenders, so they're holding it up a touch. We're going to shave it down a bit and notch near the bolts so it will sit even more flush.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/694FAE3B-77C8-4A8B-A146-A276E3CF4264_zpsadur7dl3.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/694FAE3B-77C8-4A8B-A146-A276E3CF4264_zpsadur7dl3.jpg.html)

Front shot:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/43D456BC-D702-4581-80B5-5B18D403287F_zpsrup6jqiu.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/43D456BC-D702-4581-80B5-5B18D403287F_zpsrup6jqiu.jpg.html)

Items left before taking the trip to the DMV:

Create and bolt in front and rear bumpers, 16-22" off the ground, going to within 6" of either side of the car, capable of (looking like) they can withstand 2-5mph impact.
Wire in headlights/horns
Windshield wipers (will space up hood so we don't have to cut)
Attach rear decklid
Attach rear engine cover
Rear wiring for tail lights/reverse lights
Shift exhaust away from tail lights, and reweld exit. Also swap bullet muffler with catalytic converter.
Assemble and attach doors & mirrors
Create custom center console
E-brake
New tires

flynntuna

05-31-2015, 09:57 PM

Buzz Skyline

05-31-2015, 10:04 PM

You're better off without the tab. It's flimsy and now that I followed the manual's directions, I wish I had just gone with Wayne's approach to begin with.

BTW, you must be about to start on the doors. Ditch the manual and follow Wayne's instructions, especially the parts about mounting the striker support and the door stops. Don't ask me why I know.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?15697-VCP-Door-mounting-Tricks&highlight=wayne+doors

Bob_n_Cincy

05-31-2015, 10:22 PM

Front end body panels are done!

Front shot:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/43D456BC-D702-4581-80B5-5B18D403287F_zpsrup6jqiu.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/43D456BC-D702-4581-80B5-5B18D403287F_zpsrup6jqiu.jpg.html)

Items left before taking the trip to the DMV:

Create and bolt in front and rear bumpers, 16-22" off the ground, going to within 6" of either side of the car, capable of (looking like) they can withstand 2-5mph impact.
Wire in headlights/horns
Windshield wipers (will space up hood so we don't have to cut)
Attach rear decklid
Attach rear engine cover
Rear wiring for tail lights/reverse lights
Shift exhaust away from tail lights, and reweld exit. Also swap bullet muffler with catalytic converter.
Assemble and attach doors & mirrors
Create custom center console
E-brake
New tires

Great job Andrew and Tamra,
Michael and I have a very comparable list.
Bob

Scargo

06-01-2015, 05:21 AM

The bodywork is looking quite nice! I's some kinda fun, dirty work, isn't it? Any pokes from the FG?
When I fitted the front-end I took off about a quarter inch from the downturned lip that runs down each side of the hood. I attached a guide on the jig saw and trimmed it to sit flush with the fenders. Have you done that or considered it?

Tamra

06-01-2015, 06:07 AM

Thanks for the photos and links Flynntuna and Buzz Skyline!

Bob, we'll race you ;p

Glyn, yes, that is exactly what we plan on doing. The lip isn't even notched for the button head screws yet, so it's sitting a little higher than it will be. It won't change the hood pins though, so we're not stressed about it.

C.Plavan

06-01-2015, 09:13 AM

I found it better to not follow the manual at all when it came to the body. The manual paints a "Perfect world". :)

Frank818

06-02-2015, 06:45 PM

I found it better to not follow the manual at all when it came to the body.

At all times for me. :)

Tamra, what are you using when you trim panels? Sand paper?

Tamra

06-02-2015, 06:57 PM

A flat edge file, a round file, and an angle grinder. We also have an air body saw (don't get the HF one) and a jig saw. We also used a step drill for the hood pins and the radiused corners (drills MUCH cleaner with less damage to the gel coat).

Frank818

06-04-2015, 06:56 PM

Tnx for that. So I guess I work things out with my Dremel, I have everything to cut as well.

42477

Scargo

06-05-2015, 06:30 AM

This is the sweetest tool you will ever come across for cutting the fiberglass. It's almost like wielding a laser gun that slices through the body.
Ingersoll Rand 529 Low Vibration Reciprocating Air Saw. This and a good 24 tooth blade. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049SQ5R6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage)42483

Martin

06-05-2015, 06:58 AM

Tnx for that. So I guess I work things out with my Dremel, I have everything to cut as well.

42477

One thing that struck me when Mark Dougherty came over to the UK to help out, he said the 240v dremels in the UK were a more useful than the ones in the US. I'd never thought about it, but my dremel does get some abuse and it seems to come through ok even on the long tough jobs. He said the US dremels wouldn't have done half the job the 240v did.

Martin

Hindsight

06-05-2015, 08:08 AM

K3LAG

06-05-2015, 08:47 AM

Great, thanks. Another tool to add to my wish list :rolleyes:

I bought one a couple of months ago. One of the coolest tools for this project I've bought. Well worth the investment.

Larry

Tamra

06-06-2015, 10:35 PM

We are all loaded up for Wicked Big Meet! Anyone else coming out tomorrow?

Despite borrowing Glyn's super nice race car trailer, we had quite the time of getting it loaded up. Our front bumper is about 3.75" off the ground right now... maybe we should raise that up. There was no way we were loading up forwards, and even by backing on we had maybe 1/2" before the front bumper would have scraped.

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/99BE1F8D-037B-4258-A8CD-6018EA70DE3C_zpsjtnjocdz.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/99BE1F8D-037B-4258-A8CD-6018EA70DE3C_zpsjtnjocdz.jpg.html)

We screwed a lot of boards together:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/29F7BD75-D9E9-4D91-A130-31AD3E86FFD8_zpsqyagwkhp.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/29F7BD75-D9E9-4D91-A130-31AD3E86FFD8_zpsqyagwkhp.jpg.html)

For the record, S2000 car covers are nearly a perfect fit:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/F5FC536F-B05F-4868-BD4A-9393E4F0F619_zpstwdts4an.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/F5FC536F-B05F-4868-BD4A-9393E4F0F619_zpstwdts4an.jpg.html)

A few things we finished up the last few days. Mixed the FFR console with a custom top piece that Andrew made, since our shifter was relocated.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/04046743-7CD5-4ACE-9218-E3AA1DAB6810_zpsigdzcdjz.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/04046743-7CD5-4ACE-9218-E3AA1DAB6810_zpsigdzcdjz.jpg.html)

Installed the gas filler, permanently:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/CDFBE5DD-A1C6-4A7E-B6A0-7F1AA67ADCBA_zpsudknhkn1.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/CDFBE5DD-A1C6-4A7E-B6A0-7F1AA67ADCBA_zpsudknhkn1.jpg.html)

Good night all and hope to see some 818 builders/owners tomorrow!

Scargo

06-07-2015, 04:35 AM

Should have thought to give you my extension ramps. I have same issue with the STi. See ya there!

Tamra

06-07-2015, 04:44 AM

Do they fit in your car??? Can you bring them with you? lol

Although we won't have them for getting Bug off the trailer this morning, we'd love to have them for the next two times!!

Hindsight

06-07-2015, 06:48 AM

The event sounds like fun. If you have time, I'd love to see some event pics!

metalmaker12

06-07-2015, 07:26 AM

xxguitarist

06-08-2015, 10:50 AM

We will be up in MA, but not at the open house. We have a SCCA national tour auto-x event at Devens in Ayer that day.

Glad things are coming together for you!

Tamra

06-08-2015, 11:03 AM

The event sounds like fun. If you have time, I'd love to see some event pics!

I'll get some pictures uploaded later this evening after I'm home from work. The event was a huge success and our 818 had a constant crowd, with all positive feedback and lots of curiosity as to what it was.

RM1SepEx

06-08-2015, 11:16 AM

I heard from impressed friends at our autocross Sunday, they saw your 818 at the event! You are creating more hype and peer pressure looking for my 818 Tamra! We did a short course at a small lot Sunday, the DD2 is a bit more violent... my 23 yr old son got re-hooked on autocross Sunday driving one of my two DD2 karts...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wHw_gVybb8

brian b 36

06-08-2015, 11:39 AM

tamra how many people thought it was a lotus at least 50 percent thought it was i had a lots of lookers to

xxguitarist

06-08-2015, 02:31 PM

We overheard a MR2 comment, but no lotus.

metalmaker12

06-08-2015, 03:39 PM

We will be up in MA, but not at the open house. We have a SCCA national tour auto-x event at Devens in Ayer that day.

Glad things are coming together for you!

WBM but not open house, ewwww ,...... But auto cross is fun.

xxguitarist

06-08-2015, 04:22 PM

Ha, we were available this past Sun, we auto-x'd Sat, next weekend we're at a 2 day Nats tour event both days. We'd be at the open house if auto-x wasn't happening!

We wanted to help our sponsor EFI Logics get some more people through their booth also.

Tamra

06-08-2015, 07:36 PM

As promised, here are a few photos from the event.

Us in EFI Logics' booth at the end of the day when we could finally find our car through the crowds again:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/FA5E5A5A-9CAD-41FC-A476-DDBB9BCFCC4F_zpshwn5cys3.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/FA5E5A5A-9CAD-41FC-A476-DDBB9BCFCC4F_zpshwn5cys3.jpg.html)

The spec sheet we posted to answer most questions. People were overwhelmingly curious. We couldn't see the car most of the day.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/EE8B4BFD-5B94-4E1F-99F7-2C39860C3D20_zpsoqarz75v.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/EE8B4BFD-5B94-4E1F-99F7-2C39860C3D20_zpsoqarz75v.jpg.html)

There were just a small handful of people in attendance:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/29C6605C-3896-4561-974A-F6451785C879_zpsmg26xfd6.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/29C6605C-3896-4561-974A-F6451785C879_zpsmg26xfd6.jpg.html)

Subaru's race cars were there:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/C8DA0903-CE35-4942-960F-07DD11F1D9DB_zps5wsvdlzi.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/C8DA0903-CE35-4942-960F-07DD11F1D9DB_zps5wsvdlzi.jpg.html)

Another Subaru based car built by IAG. They said it had Pontiac Solstice control arms, and a 911 steering rack. In its current state it weighed 1550lbs.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/CA877962-F1F5-46E1-981F-7DFEBD848943_zps02hpssbe.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/CA877962-F1F5-46E1-981F-7DFEBD848943_zps02hpssbe.jpg.html)

And of course, plenty of insane and built cars:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/C6ED1E3B-A1DD-400D-85E9-ABB67A00BCEB_zpsjupdlquz.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/C6ED1E3B-A1DD-400D-85E9-ABB67A00BCEB_zpsjupdlquz.jpg.html)

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/9D23C501-2699-41BF-82DF-E11BEE343D93_zpslcej8xp6.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/9D23C501-2699-41BF-82DF-E11BEE343D93_zpslcej8xp6.jpg.html)

Tamra

06-08-2015, 07:43 PM

On Saturday, I had the opportunity to drive the prepped STR Miata that I will be driving next weekend at the Deven's Championship Tour. It was my first time in the car, and it was fantastic. I ended up 13th overall out of over 100 drivers for the day, and if I wouldn't have coned my fastest run I would have been 9th.

The car can sustain 1.3Gs on street tires (Rival S), and it saw a peak of 1.48Gs during my run. Pretty impressive! I'm looking forward to next weekend in it.

The data was taken using Race Capture Pro I believe.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uefb9RbOu8A&

Tamra

06-08-2015, 07:49 PM

Andrew also put things together nicely in the S2K and was top 30 by pax. The S2000 CR has a bit of a rough time with pax, since it was recently classed with the Corvette Z06's... which makes his pax placing all the more impressive. The owner of the car, our friend Tim, is planning to convert to STR trim next year, in which the S2000 CR is "the car to have." It was too late to change for this year, unfortunately.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEVbsFo44Fk&

Mechie3

06-09-2015, 08:20 AM

STiPWRD

06-09-2015, 08:28 AM

Geez Tamra, u almost hit that guy on his morning jog ;-)
42558

Tamra

06-09-2015, 09:27 AM

The IAG car is the TR42. They bought the design from another shop. I could never quite follow what exactly was going on in the original build thread and when I asked questions the answers were never straight forward. Questions like, "did you design and build this, or are you just assembling it, or is it a kit design in process". The way it was being built is similar to if you bought an 818, but with no instructions, and only half the parts, and you redesigned half of what you go to begin with. Still a cool car. I noticed they changed the shifter to an FFR style instead of the nice bell crank the original one had.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2093090

The guys at IAG said they made the chassis themselves. They said they were considering selling it, I'm not sure whether as a kit or a built car, but decided against it due to the amount of resources and space it would take.

Geez Tamra, u almost hit that guy on his morning jog ;-)
42558

Just an added obstacle on the course... just kidding ;p I'm sure I nearly gave him a heart attack, but he was out of the way so I didn't stop.

Mechie3

06-10-2015, 08:55 AM

The guys at IAG said they made the chassis themselves. They said they were considering selling it, I'm not sure whether as a kit or a built car, but decided against it due to the amount of resources and space it would take.

They might have meant they welded that specific frame, but they definitely bought the design/rights to the TR42. I found a reference on Cobb's site to an IAG TR42.

I found the specific post in that thread I linked to where they (hi powernut and pook) never seemed to give straight answers.

Mechie3: "Sorry to bring this back up, but I'm confused. You said it's a roller kit. Does that mean you buy it partially assembled? It's a chassis and suspension but drivetrain is up to you to select and make fit/work?"

Hipowernut: "It really wouldn't matter what my kit was but rather what IAG plans to offer - for that you'll have to contact them directly for their plans/details."

Here's where hipowernut also confirmed it was sold to IAG: "It's a roller kit but only a handful were made. Danny, the designer/builder sold the whole thing (rights; jigs; ect) a few months ago to an east coast company that was supposed to start marketing the TR42 but I believe they've put it on the back burner for now."

I think the problem was that the kit required too many custom parts and multi donor parts. It would have been a cool thing to build after my 818 is done. IAG also has an in house CNC, so they probably do what I do and made lots of machine time intensive parts that are cool and inexpensive if the machine time is "free", but not very easy to commercialize.

xxguitarist

06-10-2015, 09:53 AM

Their comment to us was that they have the jigs, and could weld up more, but the amount of space used in their shop, and the time required, would be better spent on another CNC station.
They see the TR42 as a low margin, low volume product, so it's just a 1-off toy for the time being (my interpretation)

Agree it's a bit complicated with multi donors. I didn't see a lot of billet parts, but some of the bodywork was still on.

Tamra

06-11-2015, 08:13 AM

We only have weeknights to work on the 818 right now, since every weekend this month we have a two day autocross (this weekend: Deven's Championship Tour, next weekend: local test and tune + autocross, last weekend: Toledo Pro Solo). Our goal is to get it to the DMV by the end of the month, but we'll have to see if that gets pushed out a little bit.

For our front bumper design, we are thinking something like this. What do you guys think? ;p
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/251E88AC-C6F2-4A73-B688-98EBEBFBEE57_zpslfdhprnd.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/251E88AC-C6F2-4A73-B688-98EBEBFBEE57_zpslfdhprnd.jpg.html)

For our E-Brake, we opted not to use the FFR piece and instead bent a bracket and bolted it to the frame. We will make a custom cover for it soon.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/F05DF4E4-184C-4A43-9BAB-1BAA9C442B6C_zpsn3oatqjd.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/F05DF4E4-184C-4A43-9BAB-1BAA9C442B6C_zpsn3oatqjd.jpg.html)

We also bolted our e-brake on in two points. We drilled an additional hole on the OEM tab on the driver side and mounted it with our shifter bracket. On the passenger side, we welded an extension so it would reach the other console bar, and bolted it down as well. Remember, our cables go straight to the back of the car (in case you have a hard time telling direction in this photo).

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/600E76E5-342D-4184-942A-7E4D06D4DC7E_zpsddqiupu5.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/600E76E5-342D-4184-942A-7E4D06D4DC7E_zpsddqiupu5.jpg.html)

A cool pic of my S2k I grabbed in the parking garage yesterday. She's been named Skittles, and she's a fantastic daily driver :)
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/EBF6F766-E342-4EDF-9749-399301BCB80D_zpsjbaopmti.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/EBF6F766-E342-4EDF-9749-399301BCB80D_zpsjbaopmti.jpg.html)

Otherwise, we were able to rotate the exhaust back without having to reweld anything, which was a huge time saver. I disassembled the Subaru windshield wipers last night and will work on assembling them tonight. We are not going to cut the hood. Andrew will start on the headlight wiring. Our supplies for making bumpers is on order and due today or tomorrow. Although, we might try to go through with the current FFR bumper, as the DMV is a little unclear about what they consider acceptable, and the current FFR design could be considered sufficient on the front. The rear, we will incorporate it into a spoiler support. We're chipping away at the list!

Scargo

06-11-2015, 09:57 AM

Bumper example looks like it would be excellent as a crumple zone to save the FRP nose.

"Our supplies for making bumpers is on order and due today or tomorrow." Why? I have some really heavy-duty cardboard boxes you could use!
Keep chipping away... Advice is free. I've got lots of it. :cool:

flynntuna

06-11-2015, 10:43 AM

Along with that bumper, I would suggest some aero...

Hindsight

06-11-2015, 11:29 AM

Plywood is the new carbon fiber.... so hot right now.

Scargo

06-11-2015, 12:20 PM

Plywood, or even better, balsawood and a layer of CF and who's to know what's underneath? I've been surprised to find that some of my STi CF parts are not all CF. Beauty is only skin deep...
I think the front needs three or four canards per side.
This would be trick!
42590
Some serious **** for autocross!
42591

TouchStone

06-11-2015, 12:35 PM

Along with that bumper, I would suggest some aero...

Your only missing this:
42592

Tamra

06-11-2015, 04:36 PM

You guys are giving us some fantastic ideas :)

For anyone curious, here's an update on our hours:

Donor + 818 hours
181 Total days actually working since donor pickup May 2014
546 total hours since pickup
3 average hours per day spent actually working
6/11/2015 today's date
391 total days since pickup
1.4 average hours per day

Only 818 hours
116 Total days actually working since pickup Oct 25th
410 total hours since pickup
4 average hours per day spent actually working
6/11/2015 today's date
226 total days since pickup
2 average hours per day
32 weeks since pickup
13 hours per week average
54 hours spent on engine since 818 pickup (total hours on engine = 90)
25 hours spent on turbo solution
25 shifter
307 Total hours spent on 818 (excluding donor, engine, turbo, shifter)

Summary
To summarize, all in all we've spent 546 hours to date between the donor teardown and building the 818, of which 307 hours of that was spent on standard 818 assembly per the manual. Since May 2014, when we picked up our donor, we have been in the garage 191 days (46% of the days - and yes, we have taken a few vacations!). Of those days in the garage, we have averaged 3 hours working each day (long days on weekends, 1-2 hours weeknights).

Of those 546 hours, 140 hours was spent making custom parts (turbo solution, shifter, and engine build), which is over 25% of our build time (watch out for those custom ideas!). Only 136 hours was spent on the actual donor teardown.

Since we picked up the 818 in October (high enthusiasm!) we have averaged 13 hours per week in the garage (we do have full time jobs afterall).

This is our first time building a car, so I'm sure more experienced FFR guys or mechanics would be much quicker than us. We've been thorough, and careful, and I don't think there has been a single part untouched (rebuilt transmission, engine, etc.).

The scary part is, these hours were tracked as blocks of time, not per person. It has usually been at least 2 of us (I don't count as a full person though :) ) and over the winter our friend, Tim, was out here most Sundays helping as well. The true hours for a person to tackle this project alone would be much higher!

The even scarier part is, we are not done yet!!

TouchStone

06-11-2015, 04:55 PM

Interesting stats. I also got my kit and donor kit last October and I've only just karted it. However its just me working on it a few hours after work and around 10-15hrs over the weekend.

Mechie3

06-11-2015, 05:56 PM

I got mine two years ago and still haven't karted it.... :(

flynntuna

06-11-2015, 06:24 PM

Thanks for the detailed report. Taking the time to document the build in this detail gives the community a realistic feel for the complexity of the undertaking that were in for. It also shows us the skill that is needed in builds like the 5 day fedex build, and the build Erik and Wayne participated in on the tv show that pitted the East Vs West in building a 33 hot rod.

cmcintyre

06-11-2015, 08:58 PM

461 hrs. First car, good shop.

Solo, write it down every time I'm in the shop. Mods only to do seat brackets, fuel tank for 4" more legroom, flush mounted KN shifter, and Vintage Air heater. iWire harness going in, all the coolant stuff to go. Then there's the body….

131 hrs learning to weld and running around for the little stuff.

Should kart this summer.

Still a grand project.

Tamra

06-11-2015, 09:28 PM

I'm mesmerized :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQ-NXDfOZZ8&

The FFR kit was surprisingly easy to assemble and install. We had to scrape out a little bit of the powdercoat for the plastic bushings to fit, and had to trim one part of the OEM assembly so it wouldn't hit the windshield surround, but otherwise it installed without a hitch. Admittedly, we did skip the step of cutting the hood, so I'm sure that made it simpler. Our plan is just to space up the hood for inspection. We'll probably work on that solution tomorrow morning (we have the day off, getting ready for the Devens Championship Tour this weekend!).

Specifically, this is the offending corner that had to be rounded. Before:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/6E593957-8508-4EFC-B5F8-2150D19D6302_zpsocdqb9xm.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/6E593957-8508-4EFC-B5F8-2150D19D6302_zpsocdqb9xm.jpg.html)

After:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/E51BDEA2-B8BF-4E47-B5F5-BB3E85BF15C2_zpsf38d8igi.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/E51BDEA2-B8BF-4E47-B5F5-BB3E85BF15C2_zpsf38d8igi.jpg.html)

We also received our carbon fiber street spoiler today. The plan is to use this one for street, and then have a 10" duckwing for autocross. The quality is very good!
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/01EF8FEF-E3AC-4326-A648-771CC41E7D67_zpstjfyav8u.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/01EF8FEF-E3AC-4326-A648-771CC41E7D67_zpstjfyav8u.jpg.html)

Buzz Skyline

06-12-2015, 05:25 AM

Since you're spacing the hood up for inspection and not cutting it, what are you going to do after? Just take the wipers off most of the time?

Erik W. Treves

06-12-2015, 06:58 AM

like you are watching a tennis match!

STiPWRD

06-12-2015, 09:01 AM

Thanks for documenting all the hours, I find that kind of data very interesting. You guys are very dedicated and have consistently put in the hours. I feel like I'm in the same boat with all the modifications and similar amount of hours spent - just doing it solo sure does take a while though. There's a lot of learning going on as well.

The CF spoiler looks great. I also bought one and it should be arriving today.

wleehendrick

06-12-2015, 01:31 PM

I'm mesmerized :)

us, too!
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6Xe7yZ13ILU/UyrqUSH4ofI/AAAAAAAACwE/N3LT1JyRAzU/s1600/kittens-watching-tennis-animated.gif

The FFR kit was surprisingly easy to assemble and install.

Good to know... I'm debating on whether to use the FFR wiper kit, rig up a single arm, or do without. I'd prefer not to hack up my hood.

brian b 36

06-12-2015, 02:05 PM

tamra when do plan to go for impection and where brian

Tamra

06-12-2015, 02:21 PM

LOL @ wheelhindrick

Brian, there's only one place you can go in CT and it's the Whethersfield DMV. We hope to get Bug there before the end of the month.

So... guys... does this scream "kit car" or "we only put windshield wipers on for inspection" or "it's all for better airflow and cooling!" ???

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/B11A4AEE-8D06-4983-87FD-5ACD36453D2E_zpsi6fo03qw.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/B11A4AEE-8D06-4983-87FD-5ACD36453D2E_zpsi6fo03qw.jpg.html)

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/9EB96567-62D1-4657-8B00-A5DCE1F1FEB1_zpsmqz4g7zw.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/9EB96567-62D1-4657-8B00-A5DCE1F1FEB1_zpsmqz4g7zw.jpg.html)

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/AB4A47AD-F05B-47E8-9875-067ABAA624C8_zpsfcrc5f4a.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/AB4A47AD-F05B-47E8-9875-067ABAA624C8_zpsfcrc5f4a.jpg.html)

So for the record, if you want to make the FFR kit work with windshield wipers and look nice, plan on cutting the hood. We're planning on removing the entire set up since this car will never be driven if there is a chance of rain. It's an easy swap in and out - just three rivnuts.

brian b 36

06-12-2015, 02:38 PM

tamra my bus is newington right around the corner from weathersfield if you want you can stop by take my hood witch is already cut and trimed for wipers and drop it off on your way home they might like it better that way

Tamra

06-12-2015, 02:58 PM

We have heard they won't pass multi color vehicles. I think we'd be better off saying its for better cooling :)
Thank you though!

Scargo

06-12-2015, 04:17 PM

Better cooling, har har.... However, I did have a "Bug" similar to this one with a tilted deck lid for cooling. Back in the late '60's.
42620
I had 13" wheels, lowered with EMPI suspension components. It was a competitive autocross car. It could pull wheelies. :p
Good luck with the inspection.

wleehendrick

06-12-2015, 05:53 PM

We have heard they won't pass multi color vehicles.

Seriously? Here are two of the most expensive production cars:

4262142622

But the 'Constitution State' prohibits a multi-color kit car? :confused:

Tamra

06-12-2015, 07:22 PM

Someone we know had a truck with a different color bed and they wouldn't pass it until it was painted, apparently.

We are at Devens for the Tour now, starting bright and early in the morning!

Buzz Skyline

06-12-2015, 08:50 PM

So for the record, if you want to make the FFR kit work with windshield wipers and look nice, plan on cutting the hood. We're planning on removing the entire set up since this car will never be driven if there is a chance of rain. It's an easy swap in and out - just three rivnuts.

Not so fast. At least two people on this forum have managed to install wipers without cutting the hood. They fabbed their own brackets. I'm modifying the FFR windshield wiper kit slightly so I won't have to cut the hood either.

Buzz Skyline

06-12-2015, 09:23 PM

Check out posts 19 and 21 of this thread to see one example of how to install wipers without having to cut the hood. http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12644-windshield-wipers-818-s

Tamra

06-12-2015, 10:17 PM

That's not really the FFR kit anymore :) although, for someone wanting a wiper solution without cutting the hood, it looks like a fantastic modification!

We aren't keeping our wipers (they are just for inspection), so we probably won't go through the effort. Thanks for the link though, that is interesting to see!

Buzz Skyline

06-13-2015, 01:00 AM

I hate the wiper cut out. I hope they pass you so you can ditch the wipers. I plan to daily drive mine, and I figure I should keep the wipers just in case. I just finished my wiper install without cutting the hood. I moved the FFR wiper bracket an inch to the left of the point required by the FFR instructions, drilled one extra hole, and ditched one wiper. Works great so far.

brian b 36

06-13-2015, 05:55 PM

tamra I was talking to one of the guys at the open house and they said dmv is requiring defrosters you may want to call them on it

Tamra

06-13-2015, 06:42 PM

I spoke with the CT inspection dept. two weeks ago and asked about a defroster. They said it is not required on a roadster in CT.

CU9DZ

06-18-2015, 02:54 PM

Has anyone in CT or Mass had there 818 inspected and registered? I'm wondering about the headlight aiming problem. The Camry lens assembly from the kit has little or no adjustment. Don't want to find out my kit fails because of misaligned lights.
Davis

Tamra

06-18-2015, 03:03 PM

We should be able to let you know in the next few weeks. I'm not sure what our solution for that is yet - but I do know that we want properly aimed headlights in case of night driving. I'm also not sure if they check during the inspection.

brian b 36

06-22-2015, 07:35 AM

tamra i know your going to dmv soon i have a friend who works there and he gave a complete list of requirements for a composit build if you want the list give me fax n# and i can send it your way looks very basic and the last salvage inspection we did the did not chk the head lights being aimed

Tamra

06-22-2015, 08:34 AM

Hi Brian,

Thanks for that! Is it different than this list? http://www.ct.gov/dmv/LIB/dmv/20/29/R-157.pdf

If so, we'd love to see it. We don't have a fax number though.

brian b 36

06-22-2015, 09:42 AM

same list your good i pm you on the other stuff

Tamra

06-23-2015, 07:09 AM

Just realized I hadn't updated in a little while. We've still been hard at work on the doors, the rear bumper solution, and the lights wiring. We should be finishing up the rear bumper and the catalytic converter installation tonight, and countersunk screws are on order from McMaster so we can finish up the doors. I'll post some photos later tonight.

We, unfortunately, had to spend a few evenings working on our van rather than the 818. The brand new water pump we installed a few weeks ago was leaking, so we had to drain the system, pull it back off, and add some Honda Bond. Unfortunately, we put it back on, and it was STILL leaking, and we figured out the culprit was the filler neck, so off it came, Honda Bond applied, and now so far so good (knock on wood). A bit time consuming, but it needed to be done before making the trip to Toledo, OH this weekend for the next SCCA Pro Solo.

Last weekend was the SCCA Devens Championship Tour, where I drove a Miata in STRL. It was my 2nd time in the car, but it was well set up and I get along with Miatas, so I ended up winning the Tour! In this run, if I wouldn't have hit a couple of slalom cones, I would have been 9th overall on Saturday (fastest car by pax on street tires) and would have been leading open STR. My fastest clean run was ~.8 slower and put me at 22nd overall and would have been 3rd in open, but put me at a .8 second lead in STRL.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YxFXqTsKUA

Tamra

06-23-2015, 07:11 AM

Andrew also did very well, but it was a tough course for S2000's against the Vettes again, unfortunately. I'm not good at "catching" a car, whereas Andrew is a master of it. I hope I can pick up some of his skills! Here's a fun video of him hitting the rev limiter in 2nd (56mph) a bunch:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwAr9wGY0tE

For the record, the Corvette Z06's that they are up against, can go 61MPH in 1st gear, and 93MPH in 2nd gear. They were literally shifting to 2nd where the S2000's were bouncing off the rev limiter.

Tamra

06-23-2015, 09:36 PM

Okay, back to the 818!

Catalytic converter v-bands are welded on:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/52CD5525-4A37-450A-ADE4-F40F1575A391_zpsobqzpl4s.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/52CD5525-4A37-450A-ADE4-F40F1575A391_zpsobqzpl4s.jpg.html)

The cat is the exact same size as our bullet muffler (after being cut down a bit), so it fits into the exhaust perfectly:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/D7D141B2-FD43-4D7C-AEC3-539AA1DD5B68_zpsiicryhxu.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/D7D141B2-FD43-4D7C-AEC3-539AA1DD5B68_zpsiicryhxu.jpg.html)

We finished welding up the rear bumper and welded it onto the car. Hopefully this is sufficient for inspection. Later, we will extend it taller and create a rear ducktail support bar. We also painted our "Cherry Bomb" muffler silver to tone it down a bit...

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/324F86E6-C1E9-4637-A5FE-1B7B8AF55C21_zpsex201ild.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/324F86E6-C1E9-4637-A5FE-1B7B8AF55C21_zpsex201ild.jpg.html)

Using a map gas torch, we bent the bumper bar and it fits about perfectly inside the contour of the bumper, just behind the center ridge:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/C048F397-4274-44C7-92D5-14DC495E486C_zpsb7bubxlk.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/C048F397-4274-44C7-92D5-14DC495E486C_zpsb7bubxlk.jpg.html)

The door bars are installed. I flipped the upper and lower hinges but they stayed on the same side of the car as the donor. We also removed the power locks. Our countersunk screws arrived but our countersinks did not, so the doors will probably have to wait until next week after we get back from Toledo. I'll do a full door post later once they're complete.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/1951504B-A9A6-4948-9164-CA0FB7BE143B_zpsovdejy3e.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/1951504B-A9A6-4948-9164-CA0FB7BE143B_zpsovdejy3e.jpg.html)

We wired in one of the blinkers. We ended up with a mixed up set of crimps - only 4 of one type, which we need 6 of. We'll have to contact FFR (unless anyone knows what they are and we can order them quicker from elsewhere?). The one we are short of is top center of this photo.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/2D83AA76-5920-4BFB-9D72-8858FB91AFCB_zpswygm2btd.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/2D83AA76-5920-4BFB-9D72-8858FB91AFCB_zpswygm2btd.jpg.html)

We also wired in the headlights. It appears we didn't get the extra bulbs required for an 02 WRX, so we picked up some from Advance yesterday for sake of time. I found another thread where someone listed that they bought these, so we got the same and they worked like a charm. The connectors are here. (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-conduct-tite-electrical-sockets-2-wire-halogen-high-beam-headlight-9005-bulb-85812/5760071-P?searchTerm=high+beam&zoneAssigned=1&prefZC=06484#) The bulb is here. (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/sylvania-9005-halogen-headlight-bulb-1-pack-9005/5080711-P?searchTerm=high+beam) The Camry headlights use 9005 bulbs for high beams (what we bought) and 9006 for low (what FFR provided). Also FYI, if you need turn signals, the front is 3457.

The aim looks relatively decent considering it was all luck. The car is only about 5 feet from the wall though, so we won't know for sure until we get it further back. The rear end is on boards, so they look a little low. Hopefully on a level surface it will be about right. If so, I think it'll be the first time in this build that something just "worked."

High beams:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/D3A45D4B-D01B-4266-88CE-B35893249036_zpspeoamcne.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/D3A45D4B-D01B-4266-88CE-B35893249036_zpspeoamcne.jpg.html)

TouchStone

06-23-2015, 10:20 PM

Was also short on those pins, FFR ships them quickly.

Harley818

06-24-2015, 12:49 AM

Hey Tamra, I've been waiting for someone to document the headlight alignment success.
There has been a few discussions on it and the fact that they were both canted inwards, but no real facts yet.
Be great if you could let us know how yours turned out.

Looking good!

Hindsight

06-24-2015, 07:27 AM

Nice exhaust fab! I bet it sounds good.

Your garage looks like it was carved out of the side of a granite mountain!

Tamra

06-24-2015, 09:42 AM

Nice exhaust fab! I bet it sounds good.

Your garage looks like it was carved out of the side of a granite mountain!

The house we are renting is actually on a very steep rock hill, so you're not that far off!

In the winter, you can see it is one giant rock with some trees growing out of it.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/Winter_zpsbpa0blur.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/Winter_zpsbpa0blur.jpg.html)

You can't really tell in the summer...
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/Summer_zpshhsgolrw.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/Summer_zpshhsgolrw.jpg.html)

The house is only 800 sq feet. It has two one car garages. The giant rock wall in the middle of the two garages really gets in the way. Each are only 10 feet wide, about 20 feet deep.

The exhaust does sound pretty good in our opinion. It's a little loud and it might require a turndown on a cloudy day for some autocross events in order to make sound, but at idle it's pretty quiet. Here's a clip of it when we were doing some oval/skid pad practice at a school we went to in April. It lets you hear the exhaust fairly well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ybWNzFyfZ64

Tamra

07-07-2015, 11:51 AM

Sorry for the radio silence the past couple of weeks. We've been crazy busy!

The Toledo Pro Solo was fun, and I won my class (L3) driving the STR Miata! Saturday was more like lake autocrossing due to the 5" of rain that dumped on the area. It got so bad that they actually cancelled the afternoon session on Saturday - trees were blowing over and there was widespread flooding. My rain gear soaked through. It was pretty miserable. Sunday was blue skies and mostly dry pavement for my runs in the morning, clearing off to fully dry pavement for the remainder of the day. Beautiful blue skies with a light breeze and a pleasant 70 something degrees - the perfect autocross day. I was sitting 5th on Saturday in the rain (I'm apparently not so good in the rain), took off 7 seconds in the dry on Sunday, to win by .3 seconds. Andrew was sitting 2nd on Saturday I think (he's a great rain driver!), but slipped back to 4th on Sunday in the dry. Overall a great weekend!

Despite being out of town every weekend (and we will again be out of town every weekend in July), we have been making progress on the 818.

- Doors are done (such a pain, probably close to 25 hours of work)
- All lights are done (headlights, tail lights, etc.)

Next up is securing the light wiring a bit better (every 18" per the CT DMV rules), install wheel liners, new tires on the wheels, install decklids, and a few other odds and ends. We estimate somewhere in the range of 25 hours of work until we are ready to show up at the DMV.

I will post a how to on how we did the doors soon.

Tamra

07-07-2015, 01:16 PM

Between the Factory Five manual and Wayne's Tips here (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?15697-VCP-Door-mounting-Tricks), I was able to successfully assemble and install the doors with only a handful of bloopers. I definitely had some questions come up and some areas that weren't clear to me (I am not the most mechanically inclined though), so I'll post my experience here in case it might help anyone else. I did most of the work myself, with Andrew stepping in to assist when I had a hard time, and he also cut the fiberglass (it's fragile and made me nervous).

Step 1: Install striker support bracket inside of side sail and snug it up, making sure it is pressed against the side sail (don't want any space that could stress the fiberglass). Using Wayne's tip, I used a flashlight from the back, and traced the holes of the striker support bracket onto the front of the side sail. I then duck taped the striker in place over the holes I traced.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/47452095-10FF-432A-8FDA-35C23D785B29_zpszrbgno44.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/47452095-10FF-432A-8FDA-35C23D785B29_zpszrbgno44.jpg.html)

Step 2: Install Subaru latch onto door frame. We picked up some m6x20mm flatheads and countersunk the door frame.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/A519C3CD-9B1D-4BD0-A1F7-2F686685871D_zpslddzlkmt.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/A519C3CD-9B1D-4BD0-A1F7-2F686685871D_zpslddzlkmt.jpg.html)

Step 3: Install door frame (assembled hinges as per manual, although I didn't mark which was upper/lower from the donor car so I just made it match the photo in the manual. I put driver hinges on the driver side). Adjust hinges until door opens and closes easily on striker, and also make sure striker seems to be positioned correctly. Once you are sure everything seems to be in the right spot, drill the striker holes and install the OEM bolts.

Step 4: Mark where door skin hits striker. Measure and cut door skin so it passes by striker. Remember, the measurement is from the striker to the frame, not the edge of the side sail. Also, make sure you have cardboard or paint sticks around the edge so you get the skin at the right height before marking your location to cut. Also, trim the front lower corner so it doesn't hit the side sail.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/8180EF53-CF8A-4FEC-BA3E-5E3C70BD29C1_zpsfim9f3gd.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/8180EF53-CF8A-4FEC-BA3E-5E3C70BD29C1_zpsfim9f3gd.jpg.html)
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/E7D83A25-0D9A-4A79-AB41-3EA1B1E8DDCF_zpsbbqdtri1.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/E7D83A25-0D9A-4A79-AB41-3EA1B1E8DDCF_zpsbbqdtri1.jpg.html)

Step 5: Drill two convenient holes in the door frame. You will use these to attach the door skin to. Close the door frame and ensure it is fully latched. Set the door skin in place on the cardboard to ensure it's in the correct location, mark through the holes you just drilled, and then drill the skin.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/E341F4B0-B666-412D-850E-67B6CED160F0_zpsfut4qffl.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/E341F4B0-B666-412D-850E-67B6CED160F0_zpsfut4qffl.jpg.html)

Step 6: Countersink the skin and install flat head screws with locknuts.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/4D359686-6D80-43EF-A2C5-685339676FD2_zpskafv5jtu.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/4D359686-6D80-43EF-A2C5-685339676FD2_zpskafv5jtu.jpg.html)

Step 7: Drill the mirror mounting holes. On the top front of the door skin, I followed Wayne's measurement of setting the door skin 3/16" over the door frame. I found a 3/16" drill and maneuvered the skin until it was at the right location (easier than a tape measure). I clamped it in place, and then simply drilled up and through the skin with a 1/4" bit. Be careful not to hit the windshield frame. For now, the bolt is just to hold the skin in place. I used a flange head screw, but if you have clearance issues with the windshield use a flat head for final mounting. Also, position the door frame where you want it to be for final mounting, and mark the lower holes. You will drill them once the door is removed from the car, so make sure you mark them carefully.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/F929B091-8EBE-45C4-8B49-27642B786576_zps9xlm2lvv.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/F929B091-8EBE-45C4-8B49-27642B786576_zps9xlm2lvv.jpg.html)

Tamra

07-07-2015, 01:23 PM

Step 8: Remove the door frame, leaving the hinges attached to the car. Drill and countersink the lower holes you marked in step 7. One of these bolts will interfere with the hinge bolts, so one or the other will likely have to be cut shorter. Also, drill the 2nd upper mirror mount hole.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/9380C370-457E-43EC-9F0B-BC4DDCB84DC2_zpskyfyakx1.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/9380C370-457E-43EC-9F0B-BC4DDCB84DC2_zpskyfyakx1.jpg.html)

Step 9: Find the door aluminum, install weather stripping, and trace hinge holes. Drill/cut out the holes.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/2E6AC9AF-A4DB-4FB5-836B-9F154F706A6A_zps0tvz4t2h.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/2E6AC9AF-A4DB-4FB5-836B-9F154F706A6A_zps0tvz4t2h.jpg.html)

Step 10: Trim the door card to fit. The door card fits on the top of the door, but inside the side and bottom. You will need to cut a notch in the upper corner so it can transition from inside to outside the door. Also, if necessary, trim the rear of the door card so it sits flush with the aluminum.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/6DB8322D-FD10-427E-A59E-17BA41E16BF7_zpsykjlqqyf.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/6DB8322D-FD10-427E-A59E-17BA41E16BF7_zpsykjlqqyf.jpg.html)

Step 11: Notch the door card so it fits around the door latch. The door card will need to sit flush with the door. On ours, without trimming, it sat higher than the door and the door couldn't latch. I trimmed the edge so it could sit flush. Also cut out the striker area.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/35C88C29-34FA-4187-B641-CA05BE67DEC4_zpsf6rnawcd.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/35C88C29-34FA-4187-B641-CA05BE67DEC4_zpsf6rnawcd.jpg.html)

Step 12: Cut out the door handle area. I used the aluminum as a template, traced the hole, and then used a step drill in the corners, followed by an air saw to cut out the shape of the handle. (not pictured)

Step 13: Install weather stripping (not pictured). Position door card, and then drill, countersink, and install flat head screws. These attach the door card to the fiberglass. I drilled a 1/8" pilot hole followed by a 3/16" hole only through the fiberglass (so the screws can pass through the fiberglass easily but must be screwed into the door card), and then screwed them in.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/8981AE56-3CFB-4070-B705-D78BDCC97BB2_zpsk6v6pcxg.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/8981AE56-3CFB-4070-B705-D78BDCC97BB2_zpsk6v6pcxg.jpg.html)

Step 14: Once the handle location is finalized, set the handle in place and find a tool that fits through the bolt hole. Apply paint marker to the tip, and press down until it hits the door frame and leaves a mark. Drill for a 25/64" rivnut as provided by FFR. Also, drill out Subaru handle for 1/4" bolt (hole is slightly too small). Note: make sure door card is in correct location before marking for rivnut.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/398CB1BE-338D-427E-87EF-62F9C10347DA_zps7oqdmq82.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/398CB1BE-338D-427E-87EF-62F9C10347DA_zps7oqdmq82.jpg.html)

Step 15: Put bends in the rod until it is the right length. Futz with it until it hooks securely in the handle. Ours took quite a bit of work until it was really securely attached, as it wanted to slip out of the handle at first. Warning: this part is very frustrating. Also, see photo for spacer we installed. The door card holds the handle from twisting and it feels fairly secure once all installed.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/FD5987AF-C1BB-4085-9501-5B177484B370_zpswe2vighv.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/FD5987AF-C1BB-4085-9501-5B177484B370_zpswe2vighv.jpg.html)

Tamra

07-07-2015, 01:25 PM

Step 16: Zip tie the child lock and the regular lock so they cannot change location. Make sure the latch functions properly.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/2292B130-90FC-4E64-9E6C-8D6B03C45FDF_zpsokzph5ty.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/2292B130-90FC-4E64-9E6C-8D6B03C45FDF_zpsokzph5ty.jpg.html)

Step 17: Install the mirror bracket and tighten in its final location. Pictured are button head screws, but if you have clearance issues with your windshield, you can countersink the mirror bracket and install flat head screws. Test fit the door card around the mirror bracket and clearance it if necessary. Optionally, install the mirror now (recommended). If you forget, you can install it once the door is on the car, accessing the inner screws using a screwdriver tip and a 1/4" wrench or pliers.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/DC084C08-3F7D-4EEF-8512-6CBBCF6254B2_zpsabryg72o.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/DC084C08-3F7D-4EEF-8512-6CBBCF6254B2_zpsabryg72o.jpg.html)

Step 18: Install the aluminum door handle on the door card. Then, install the door card onto the door. Press in door handle trim ring.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/248EA736-3E5A-402B-B124-D21359B6120A_zpsvqyxlgwi.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/248EA736-3E5A-402B-B124-D21359B6120A_zpsvqyxlgwi.jpg.html)

Final Step: Wipe down door to make it look pretty (not pictured).

Bob_n_Cincy

07-07-2015, 03:14 PM

Thank You
Bob

Samiam1017

07-07-2015, 03:38 PM

so the doors really cant be assembled until the quarter panels are in place?? I was hoping to start doing something with my body but I guess I have to wait until is rolling.

Tamra

07-07-2015, 05:55 PM

I'm not sure if you are referring to the front fenders or the side sails. You could install the doors without the fenders (although they might be helpful to have on to set the door stop location. On that note, I just bent in the FFR door stops a little bit to set the opening amount I wanted). But, you can't install them without the side sails.

You could partially assemble the doors off of the car, without any other panels. I would say you could install the latch on the door frame, drill all the holes for the door cards that secure them to the fiberglass (not the fiberglass to the frame though), cut the door cards to fit. Basically, anything involving the fiberglass and the door card you can work on, but hold off anything securing the fiberglass to the door frame until you can test fit on the car. For example, don't install the handle, or drill holes to attach the fiberglass to the door frame, or cut the aluminum panel, or install the mirror mount, etc.

Samiam1017

07-07-2015, 07:45 PM

Tamra

07-08-2015, 08:05 PM

i guess side sails are what they are calling the quarter panels since its way more than a quarter panel. thx beautiful build

on the front edge of the side sails, where the assembly manual shows 5/8 from the front tube. they have there flange trimmed off did you have to do this or did leave the flange ?

Yes, we did trim it until it was slightly behind the sheet metal.

Which, brings me to a question for the forum members. I worked on installing the splash guard aluminum today, and the passenger side rubs. What have others done to resolve this? Run without that panel? You can see the mark where the tire rubbed in the photo below:

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/3393579C-75B5-42C5-BD8B-82451C2501E0_zpssgivcwpp.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/3393579C-75B5-42C5-BD8B-82451C2501E0_zpssgivcwpp.jpg.html)

The perplexing part is, we just installed brand new tires, which meet the Factory Five "recommended" size for the front - 215/40/17. Our wheels are 17x8, et 45. We did not expect any rubbing with this much smaller size. It barely clears the edge near the side sail (and I mean barely), and definitely rubs the splash guard at full lock.

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/8AC889EE-FF4D-41A0-A24D-C96223CBEFF2_zpsfeddzuwv.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/8AC889EE-FF4D-41A0-A24D-C96223CBEFF2_zpsfeddzuwv.jpg.html)

http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/2F6AF658-244C-4DBE-82AD-C975824F99F8_zps6vxam8ym.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/2F6AF658-244C-4DBE-82AD-C975824F99F8_zps6vxam8ym.jpg.html)

And, different question - what is the point of this block off panel? I would have expected it to protect the headlights, but it seems that there is a cutout that excludes that purpose.
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/78EE213E-A735-4FF1-83F3-F507310201CE_zps16mg7fmq.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/78EE213E-A735-4FF1-83F3-F507310201CE_zps16mg7fmq.jpg.html)