Frank's 818R build

[Pearldrummer7]

Hey guys, figured I'd make a build thread to document my Factory Five 818R build. My goal is to have it be street legal, so I can scare friends in it, and of course, to be on track with it as often as I possibly can. Shoutout to my friend Frank at FFR who helped peer pressure me to do this and is helping with every step of the process. Of course, I'm always open to suggestions for this car, so if you have an idea- speak up! I'm not new to Subarus (3rd one) but I'm by no means an expert. Brand new to the Factory Five Forums and I'm excited to see how this build goes!

A quick little 'about me':
At the time of writing- I'm 22, single, Clarkson grad, working as an electrical engineer for a company in upstate NY making automotive aluminum (narrows it down quite a bit). Done a bit of car work, nothing quite this intense. Done a little tracking/autox, nothing too serious either. Currently drive a 2012 WRX that's a bit modded. Want something a little....faster ;)



Timeline:
Build:
Cost to get running:


-Ordered on 10/30/13, (re)scheduled pick up on 7/5/14
Full aero 818R for track use; hopefully NASA ST2. Street legal as well.
818R order: $11,807


-Got donor car on 2/8/14, towed away on 5/12/14
EJ257/205 hybrid with forged internals with a VF39
Donor car: $4,800


-First drive (driveway) on 3/22/15 (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=192695&viewfull=1#post192695)
2007 WRX 5 speed
Street legality parts: $2,125


-First autox (CVMP) 5/30/15 (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=199993&viewfull=1#post199993)
17x8 +35 front wheels with 215/40 Direzza Z2's
Sold parts total: -$1,560


-First track day (NYST) 8/28/15 (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=209964&viewfull=1#post209964)
17x9 +35 rear wheels with 255/40 Direzza Z2's
Aftermarket parts purchased: ~$10,800


Fully street legal as of 3/14/16

Total cost to get legal/on track: ~ $27,970



https://farm1.staticflickr.com/595/20847209129_721a3b7299_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xLcoYa)https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7780/29966640025_8609553166_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ME3S4k)

Highlights (Click to see post- to help those stuck on a step!)
Donor:
Picked up my donor locally on 2/8/14 after buying it on 1/25/14 (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=140390&viewfull=1#post140390)
Started teardown (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=140392&viewfull=1#post140392)
Removed wiring harness (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=142624&viewfull=1#post142624)
Donor car towed away (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=152981&viewfull=1#post152981)

Parts:
Electrolysis (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=146017&viewfull=1#post146017)
New Garage! (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=153275&viewfull=1#post153275)
Transmission work (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=153994&viewfull=1#post153994)
Steering work (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=157807&viewfull=1#post157807)

818:
Delivery day! Brought the 818 home. (7/5/14) (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=160601&viewfull=1#post160601)
Mounted fuel tank (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=164570&viewfull=1#post164570)
Front suspension (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=169065&viewfull=1#post169065)
Installed engine (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=171907&viewfull=1#post171907)
Brake lines (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=172936&viewfull=1#post172936)
Seat mounting (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=173018&viewfull=1#post173018)
Clutch and trans installed (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=177260&viewfull=1#post177260)
Coolant lines (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=182668&viewfull=1#post182668)
Wheels (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=187582&viewfull=1#post187582)
First start (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=191161&viewfull=1#post191161)
First drive (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=192695&viewfull=1#post192695)
Tune and Alignment (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=199245&viewfull=1#post199245)
First autox(bad angle) (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=199993&viewfull=1#post199993)
Started Body Work (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=203512&viewfull=1#post203512)
Better autox angle (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=204454&viewfull=1#post204454)
Race wind screen and dash (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=206418&viewfull=1#post206418)
Fender liners (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=209613&viewfull=1#post209613)
Race height (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=230486&viewfull=1#post230486)
Relocated intake (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=240621&viewfull=1#post240621)
Broke Transmission (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=248708&viewfull=1#post248708)
Side Scoops (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=249522&viewfull=1#post249522)
Shortened front upper A-arms for more aggressive alignment (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=255207&viewfull=1#post255207)
Shift linkage


Track:
First track day(NYST) (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=209964&viewfull=1#post209964)
Second track day (SLMP) (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=211919&viewfull=1#post211919)
More NYST track time (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=214418&viewfull=1#post214418)


The quest for street legality:
Windshield (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=214559&viewfull=1#post214559)
Rear bumper (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=215816&viewfull=1#post215816)
License plate lights (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=216600&viewfull=1#post216600)
Defroster (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=217409&viewfull=1#post217409)
Wipers (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=218497&viewfull=1#post218497)
Side marker lights (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=218499&viewfull=1#post218499)
VIN (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=221489&viewfull=1#post221489)
Plates and timeline recap of street legality process (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=230520&viewfull=1#post230520)

Other:
Engine swapped lawn mower (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=169064&viewfull=1#post169064)
First tow (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=197133&viewfull=1#post197133)
Blew up daily driver (WRX) (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=251733&viewfull=1#post251733)
Visited Canada Frank (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=255207&viewfull=1#post255207)

[Pearldrummer7]

After a ton of looking, I found a 2002 silver WRX sedan about 2.5 miles from my apartment complex, and maybe 15 from the garage I'm doing the build in (a friend's house).

Motor:
EJ257 block
'10 STi nitride treated crankshaft
Wiseco pistons
Eagle rods
Acl main and rod bearing
ARP head studs
Ej205 heads
Ferrea valves
Combustion chambers custom cnc'd for larger bore
VF39 turbo
Walbro fuel pump
Deatschwerks 650cc injectors
TGV deletes
FMS 3" turbo inlet
Turboxs fmic and recirculating bov
12mm oil pump
New OEM water pump
Full 3in catless turbo back exhaust and catless up pipe.

Transmission:
Exedy stage 1 clutch
Gruppe-S flywheel
Bent 1-2 selector fork :'(
Supposidly JDM micro polished gearset. We shall see when the transmission gets rebuilt

Body is a 2002 silver WRX sedan in pretty good shape. Has full interior (which is mostly ricer-blue...... ) and gauges. It's also really close which is ideal for moving it. Guy has tons of pictures and receipts for all the work. Motor ran nicely and everything looks good so far. I'm hoping it's actually the deal I think it is at $4,800.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48825857303_0c3c6ebd35_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hozhiV)

My small collection of WRXs :D
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48826386862_d119546505_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hoBZJf)

[FFRSpec72]

Welcome to the R build family !

I hope to be making mine street legal also as I have my FFR Challenge car street legal. I'm going the JDM EJ207 v7 route with 5sp.

[Pearldrummer7]

And the work begins:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48826233416_fda3eb20a8_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hoBd7C)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48826233556_a710b00427_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hoBda3)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48825857018_8aabff9b52_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hozhe1)

Any of you "S" guys need door hinges, etc?

[Pearldrummer7]

Welcome to the R build family !

Thanks! It's seeming to be a great place to be! Can't wait!

[Rasmus]

A new R build to follow! Nice.

[Pearldrummer7]

A new R build to follow! Nice.

Yes! Your thread is looking great so far; read through it yesterday. That's gonna be a lightweight 818!

[STiPWRD]

Cool, looks like I'm going to be running a very similar motor combo as you. Welcome!

[Pearldrummer7]

Cool, looks like I'm going to be running a very similar motor combo as you. Welcome!

Cool! What are you running for a motor? I intended to run a stock 2.5 but for the cost and convenience of the one I found it was tough to beat a built up hybrid.

[STiPWRD]

I have to get my build thread going soon but essentially an EJ257/EJ205 hybrid. I'm running the JE hybrid specific pistons (PN: 291059) to reduce my compression ratio to 8.5 (although it will be slightly higher since my heads have been decked). I rebuilt used wrx heads with crower 264 cams, springs and retainers, added ferrea valves, and sti shimless buckets and polished up the ports. Going with ARP head studs, Blousch 2.5R turbo and turboxs utec engine management, which I'm very familiar with. Nice donor by the way.

[Pearldrummer7]

I have to get my build thread going soon but essentially an EJ257/EJ205 hybrid. I'm running the JE hybrid specific pistons (PN: 291059) to reduce my compression ratio to 8.5 (although it will be slightly higher since my heads have been decked). I rebuilt used wrx heads with crower 264 cams, springs and retainers, added ferrea valves, and sti shimless buckets and polished up the ports. Going with ARP head studs, Blousch 2.5R turbo and turboxs utec engine management, which I'm very familiar with. Nice donor by the way.

Wow! Nice pistons. Larger dish size than the stock ones, eh? I don't know what my heads are machined to and what my resulting C/R is.... a few mysteries on this motor at this point. Our builds are pretty similar it seems! 2.5R seems like a solid choice. I don't know if the VF39 is too big for such a small, light car. I might want to go twin scroll or smaller to be in boost more often. I'll find out once I drive the thing.


Why aftermarket management? I never really considered it, I suppose. My '12 WRX is just running a few different tunes from EFI Logics, and that was my intention on the 818.

[STiPWRD]

Engine management becomes key when you begin changing too much from the stock configuration such as changing the turbo or fuel injectors and even intake and exhaust. Additionally, in a hybrid motor, the combustion chamber volume increases and has to be accounted for. If you're ECU has already been reflashed by EFI logics for your particular setup then you should be fine. Although they would only be able to program in a single tune on the stock ECU, there's no way (at least to my knowledge) to select different maps or different tunes on the stock ECU. Do you have an aftermarket fuel controller?

I would highly suggest getting a wideband O2 sensor and gauge, if you don't have one already. This allows you to keep an eye on your air fuel ratio (AFR) and make sure it remains in the proper range at high boost and RPMs. The stock narrow band O2 sensor will not read the proper AFR under boost. Running too rich or lean can cause engine damage and reduced performance. The Utec I will be running is fairly cheap these days, you can find them for $100-200 and allows you to control boost, fuel, and timing along with may other parameters. It also allows you to scale injector size (I'm running 824cc modded wrx injectors).

[Pearldrummer7]

On my '12, I use an Accessport to switch between multiple tunes (different octanes, summer/winter, and a track one instead of street). The donor WRX's ECU was reflashed (amateurly, I might add) to match this build, which of course will change with the new exhaust and a different intercooler, etc. I suppose I should look into aftermarket management. No aftermarket fuel controller, to my knowledge.

I have a wideband for it already, and will be running an AFR gauge, along with EGT and oil temp or pressure (can't decide but that's another conversation entirely.

[Rasmus]

I use Romraider (http://www.romraider.com/) to switch and update ECU maps. It's not as fast at map switching as some of the aftermarket offerings but it's not as pricy either. But I can do it at the track if I needed too. My tune is usually sorted (enough) by the time I'm at the track. Messing with the ECU the morning of an event just felt like a recipe for disaster.

[STiPWRD]

Cool, didn't know about Romraider.

Your Accessport performs most of the same functions as my Utec - both are considered aftermarket engine management. I haven't worked with the Cobb Accessport but I believe it is used to reflash the ECU and doesn't necessarily need to be plugged in the car once the maps have been loaded. The turboXS utec is attached to the ECU and plugs in between the factory harness and ECU connectors. It has a remote map selector switch that can toggle between multiple preloaded maps on the fly. The functionality between these two systems is very similar, I'm just more familiar with the Utec.

[Pearldrummer7]

Romraider is a great alternative. Especially price wise. I travel a bunch with the WRX, so the ease of Cobb AP switching is value added to me. The 818 won't move around so much, and it really can survive on one or two tune.


Yes, that's correct. Cobb AP can be unplugged with no loss. Also does logging, and switches maps as you mentioned. But, even with my parts guy's discount(feel free to PM me for that), the AP is more than a UTEC.

[Pearldrummer7]

Little update (pictures to come when I get some free time after work):
Dropped the trans out, and the front suspension. Pro tip- break axle nuts free BEFORE you take off motor and driveshaft, not after :rolleyes: We realized that mistake as soon as we looked at axles. Got crafty with a crowbar placed between studs (broke one in the process, but I needed new ones as the old ones were destroyed) and got them off.

Hoping to do some motor work soon- timing belt, clean alternator (Rasmus inspired that), maybe spark plugs and coils, and likely some valve cover gaskets. Anyone have any advice for things I should be doing to the motor while it's easily accessed?

[Somerset Subaru]

Little update (pictures to come when I get some free time after work):
Dropped the trans out, and the front suspension. Pro tip- break axle nuts free BEFORE you take off motor and driveshaft, not after :rolleyes: We realized that mistake as soon as we looked at axles. Got crafty with a crowbar placed between studs (broke one in the process, but I needed new ones as the old ones were destroyed) and got them off.

Hoping to do some motor work soon- timing belt, clean alternator (Rasmus inspired that), maybe spark plugs and coils, and likely some valve cover gaskets. Anyone have any advice for things I should be doing to the motor while it's easily accessed?

Tip for the axle nuts. Take a flat head screw driver and in the rotor vent stick it there in the middle of the brake caliper and it will lock it all up for you.

Check things like the timing belt, idler pulleys, tensioner (They leak sometimes), drive belts, etc


-Adam

[Rasmus]

Tip for the axle nuts. Take a flat head screw driver and in the rotor vent stick it there in the middle of the brake caliper and it will lock it all up for you.

-Adam
Oooo... That's brilliant.

[STiPWRD]

Check things like the timing belt, idler pulleys, tensioner (They leak sometimes), drive belts, etc


+1 on replacing the timing idler pulleys. My old motor died cuz one of those seized up and caused the timing belt to wrap itself around the crank pulley. Depending on the mileage, you may want to inspect your water pump, oil pump, cam shaft seals, and oil pan seal.

[Goldwing]

What they said. Thermostat would be easy access while doing the timing belt. Take a look at the cooler above the oil filter. If it's caked in dirt, replace the oring between the oil cooler and the block.

[Pearldrummer7]

+1 on replacing the timing idler pulleys. My old motor died cuz one of those seized up and caused the timing belt to wrap itself around the crank pulley. Depending on the mileage, you may want to inspect your water pump, oil pump, cam shaft seals, and oil pan seal.


What they said. Thermostat would be easy access while doing the timing belt. Take a look at the cooler above the oil filter. If it's caked in dirt, replace the oring between the oil cooler and the block.

Good call. I plan to get a new oil pan (killer B) and pick up tube, which I recommend for anyone running the 2.5 block's oil pick up tube...seen one of them crack at 40K miles, so now I'm nervous about them. My oil filter had a sandwich block for its oil pressure sensor, and it's filthy above it somehow.

Good advice, thanks all!

[Pearldrummer7]

Just a fun little Friday update. Hopefully selling a bunch of parts off this weekend to some local people. Unfortunately, the guy whose house I'm using as a garage is leaving the area for a new job, so I am faced with the choice of completing the build in my apartment garage bay with minimal lighting and space, or try to rent a garage from someone. We'll see what the coming months bring before my car arrives.

Pulled the rest of the wiring out last night; MAN that's a lot of weight. Harness needs some SlimFast!

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p619/Frank_LaBarbera/818R/Donor/IMG_0157_zpse6ef63cc.jpg~original (http://s1158.photobucket.com/user/Frank_LaBarbera/media/818R/Donor/IMG_0157_zpse6ef63cc.jpg.html)

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p619/Frank_LaBarbera/818R/Donor/IMG_0158_zps7a3c8e2a.jpg~original (http://s1158.photobucket.com/user/Frank_LaBarbera/media/818R/Donor/IMG_0158_zps7a3c8e2a.jpg.html)

[Pearldrummer7]

And wiring has begun!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13629-2002-WRX-harness-pictures-of-each-connector&p=143158

I made a thread for it. It seems at least a couple 02-03 guys would like to have a more documented process, and I definitely have a few connectors I am not sure about. I'll be attempting to replace the fuse boxes with a panel of breakers. Let's see what we can do with that. I understand the response time and thermal memory changes involved in this, and will be doing a ton of research into this before I do anything too crazy.

[Pearldrummer7]

Man, the rear subframe was rusty! Broke two extensions, two socket wrenches, and a bunch of bolts. Bought a 24" breaker bar and a new set of impact sockets; they made short work of the remaining subframe stuff. All that's left is dropping the fuel tank.

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p619/Frank_LaBarbera/818R/Donor/17f8d21e-38d6-4f9f-8a33-af6280664425_zps51548841.jpg~original (http://s1158.photobucket.com/user/Frank_LaBarbera/media/818R/Donor/17f8d21e-38d6-4f9f-8a33-af6280664425_zps51548841.jpg.html)

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p619/Frank_LaBarbera/818R/Donor/IMG_0240_zps7ca9ed53.jpg~original (http://s1158.photobucket.com/user/Frank_LaBarbera/media/818R/Donor/IMG_0240_zps7ca9ed53.jpg.html)

Then, I did brakes on my roommate's car. Seems familiar...(same car as my donor, except Limited trim and bone stock).
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48825856808_e7840843af_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hozhao)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48825856828_0d4bc3512b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hozhaJ)

[Pearldrummer7]

I tried some electrolysis (thanks for the idea/how-to/confidence, Rasmus) last night. The results are absolutely amazing. Here are my pictures from the adventure. I pulled it out after 2 hours (12V, 2A), and it looked great.

Before:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48826448992_8b465c3799_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hoCjcs)

My little set up:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48825919148_a362788cd6_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hozAGd)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48826294596_2c5ea944ca_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hoBwis)

After:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48826449017_11fa655746_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hoCjcT)
Did a bit more electrolysis today and some wiring.

[Pearldrummer7]

The finished product, coated with VHT engine enamel. I think it came out alright! Did the rear calipers, too. Thanks for the advice on plugging them, Frank818! Worked like a charm.

http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p619/Frank_LaBarbera/818R/Donor/painted_rear_cbracket_zpsa08462d6.jpg~original (http://s1158.photobucket.com/user/Frank_LaBarbera/media/818R/Donor/painted_rear_cbracket_zpsa08462d6.jpg.html)


I have a fuel question....well, a donor question, I suppose. I'll post it in the appropriate spot if I don't get any answers here.

What the heck do I need from my donor fuel tank? I took the pump and surrounding assembly, and the wiring. Do I need whatever is under the driver-side cover (2002 sedan)? How about whatever the rear of the fuel pump wiring harness plugs into?


Not to try to escape doing the work to find this out, but if anyone already knows, it'd save me some time :)

[longislandwrx]

You need the pump/sock and the wiring. You also need the controller so just remove the whole wiring harness. The fuel level sending unit gets replaced so no need for that, but again you need the wiring.

[Pearldrummer7]

You need the pump/sock and the wiring. You also need the controller so just remove the whole wiring harness. The fuel level sending unit gets replaced so no need for that, but again you need the wiring.

New fuel level sending unit. That's good news. I think I have all of the wiring out. Thanks, lawnguylandwrx!


Pressed the totally shot bearings out of the front hubs after work tonight. First one went fine. Second one......well..... I guess I'm in the market for another knuckle.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7415/13882162193_f5a13ef2de_z.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7010/13882104055_ee7c0cfa71_c.jpg

[longislandwrx]

How did that happen?

[Pearldrummer7]

How did that happen?

By pressing the bearing out with not-the-best surface. It was a little rushed on my part. I'd like to think it might have been damaged there already, but it was probably just my shoddy pressing skills.

[Pearldrummer7]

Got "evicted" from my friend's garage today, but also filed our paperwork to rent a house nearby! Has a huge (30'x30') garage. So, all of the donor parts had to be moved to our apartment, and next weekend to our new house. Whew. Lots of work and no "progress".

The easiest way to lift a motor with only 2 guys:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7341/14121219046_4a20ab3e27_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nvQWrU)

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2901/14141085371_d8796dbb5a_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nxAL1K)


Also, did some parts prep- removed ball bearings and cleaned joints in axles and drilled the hole in the brake pedal:


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7427/14144607464_bd4c78e1c5_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nxUP1u)



There is just so much to do!

[Pearldrummer7]

Said goodbye to the donor car this weekend, and loaded up my '12 WRX with some parts. Man I love having a hatch!

Moving into a house (renting) this week/weekend. Garage photos to come once I get somewhat situated!

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7422/13981783340_b42018283b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/niwi51)

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2896/14188526023_499e2b7073_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nBMUt2)

[STiPWRD]

Good luck with the move! Glad u found a place that had a garage

[Pearldrummer7]

Good luck with the move! Glad u found a place that had a garage
Thanks! So am I. It's a hectic week for me. My roommate is gone Friday for 3 weeks, so I'm moving some of his crap, and helping a friend move from his house. But....


The garage is a nice size. 30'x30'. Definitely big enough to park and work on the kit!
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2921/13997173747_97d2209320_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/njTb6R)

[Rasmus]

Good times on the big garage. When I went to a bigger garage I found the "goldfish hypothesis" true. You grow to the size of your fishbowl.

Look into investing in some lighting. Consider it a tool.

http://i.imgur.com/TV0vKkY.jpg
Here's my ceiling. I rock four double bulb 8 footers on the ceiling. And one double-bulb 4 footer over the work bench. I've actually moved with them. I consider them a tool. So much easier to work when you can see. You can see where I removed the two weak 4 footers that used to be up there.

http://i.imgur.com/KHdq6Ar.jpg
I run the ~6500K-"daylight deluxe" white 75w bulbs. Changing over to Phillips brand a.t.m. Used to run Sylvania but my big box store stopped carrying it. I'm happy with both. Don't invest all that time and money and get cheap, eyestrain inducing, bulbs. Yes, I actually keep that label attached to the ceiling.

[Pearldrummer7]

Good times on the big garage. When I went to a bigger garage I found the "goldfish hypothesis" true. You grow to the size of your fishbowl.

Look into investing in some lighting. Consider it a tool.

http://i.imgur.com/TV0vKkY.jpg
Here's my ceiling. I rock four double bulb 8 footers on the ceiling. And one double-bulb 4 footer over the work bench. I've actually moved with them. I consider them a tool. So much easier to work when you can see. You can see where I removed the two weak 4 footers that used to be up there.

http://i.imgur.com/KHdq6Ar.jpg
I run the ~6500K-"daylight deluxe" white 75w bulbs. Changing over to Phillips brand a.t.m. Used to run Sylvania but my big box store stopped carrying it. I'm happy with both. Don't invest all that time and money and get cheap, eyestrain inducing, bulbs. Yes, I actually keep that label attached to the ceiling.

After working for a few days in the garage, lighting has become one of my top priorities. I'm going after work to get 2 double 4 footers; one for over the work bench, and one a little ways down over the car. Treating them like I would a tool. Fantastic advice.

Love that you keep the label there!

[Pearldrummer7]

So, as you may know- I have a 5MT with JDM RA gears, and it wouldn't consistently shift into gear (mainly 1 and 2, but sometimes R as well) when in the donor car. This transmission was rebuilt before to put in the RA gears, and I was told by the seller that it was just a fork, and could be replaced easily. I opened up the transmission and found something a little different than that.

This little plastic guy was broken off and stuck in the input shaft. The shaft clearly grinded away part of the this plastic oil-return piece, and grinded into the metal as well.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2911/14034266628_886d26ca23_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/noahwh)
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2909/14218483762_3bbd12c45a_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nErrRL)


The bolt on the end of this shaft wasn't even hand tight. 5 and R were so loose you could move them around with just a finger. Also, that bolt is HUGE. My 32mm is too tiny, so I haven't tried torquing it down and seeing how things mesh.


I think I am buying a used LGT transmission and putting the gears into this case, as I know this transmission has just a bent fork, and I believe LGT gears are a lot stronger than the 2002 WRX ones.


This is my "my input shaft is broken" face:
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2902/14197706146_ca84c99ca3_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nCAXp1)

[Pearldrummer7]

Crap picture, but MAN lighting changes everything. Nothing fancy, just the brightest T8 fixture/lights Lowes sells. It makes everything way nicer and easier. Awesome suggestion, Rasmus.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5197/14236695364_e5909296a0_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nG3MwU)

Transmission-wise:
Was missing one of these little guys. Got a replacement clip and a new plastic oil return piece, because mine is destroyed:

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2936/14213819686_693f261bcf_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nE2xoE)
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5568/14233666041_04dd1f4ee6_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nFMg2c)

The metal around the return is a little beat up. The plastic's edge actually looks like it will cover it (barely), but I'll probably end up replacing the whole casing instead. Don't want a poorly lubricated main/input shaft.



I've heard from some that since the drive shaft wasn't taken apart, I don't need to set pinion depth. Some people say that I absolutely have to set the pinion depth. Anyone have any advice on that matter?

[Rasmus]

Crap picture, but MAN lighting changes everything. Nothing fancy, just the brightest T8 fixture/lights Lowes sells. It makes everything way nicer and easier. Awesome suggestion, Rasmus.
You're welcome. It's amazing what you can do when you can see what you're doing.

[Pearldrummer7]

Whew, last few weeks have been pretty busy! Lots of little work whenever I can get the time. I started to work on de-powering the steering last night:

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5552/14256502520_24c73a9b0b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nHNivA)
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5548/14256516788_4cc36c4445_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nHNnKA)


Went pretty quick so far. I'm just going to weld the threaded ends once I get to that point, I think. And I will be removing that slop (to the best of my ability), I suppose having someone TIG it would be the best way. I don't have any welder of my own at this time.

[Pearldrummer7]

More steering work! I tried drilling into that valve-body-thing...whew, that stuff is hard! Grabbed an angle grinder and knicked a piece of it off, then got a friend at work to tig it up for me. It certainly doesn't move now!

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2915/14462423105_716c9b3e50_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o2ZGwv)
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3858/14275788829_abbf95187a_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nKv9Ea)
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3878/14461065012_06b2e7e3f6_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o2SJP7)

[Frank818]

Any reason why you decided to keep the triple-cork-layer valve piece? I found out the shaft was staying in place very solid without it so I ditched it. But I also have seen that there are many little differences in the racks depending on the year-model we got, so maybe for you it was better to keep it?

Ok I found the answer after you posted on De-Powering the rack thread. :)

[Pearldrummer7]

Any reason why you decided to keep the triple-cork-layer valve piece? I found out the shaft was staying in place very solid without it so I ditched it. But I also have seen that there are many little differences in the racks depending on the year-model we got, so maybe for you it was better to keep it?

Ok I found the answer after you posted on De-Powering the rack thread. :)

Frank,

Yup, I posted it there. I think it'll help support the shaft inside of the steel housing. I'm not sure about that, of course. But, it was easy enough to keep. How does yours fit?

[Pearldrummer7]

Woohoo! Joe Scott and I confirmed my pick up date. How did you guys last the final 2 weeks?!? I'm already so excited/anxious!

[Frank818]

I had stomach issues in the last week to 2 weeks. Which lasted until I crossed the Canadian border on my way back. Then I shouted at the Canadian border and Transport Canada cuz I succeeded through my first huge step and I was so happy. loll Good thing none of them heard me, it wasn't pretty. lolll

I test fitted the shaft with and without that valve and didn't see any difference. The thing is, it was just by hand, not on the car and driving it, so I don't know if under load (steering load that is, not engine) it will be ok. Others have trashed that valve too so that's why I decided to do it as well. On the long rod though, some have remove everything but the end cap. Mine looked a little different than most of the pix I've seen here, still I tried to remove all but there was a bigger piece I had to keep on one end of the rod, otherwise the rod was moving up and down and that was bad.

Back to the shaft, mine is maintained solidly in place by the bottom bearing and the very bottom tip of the shaft, the portion that goes in the hole inside the rack itself and maintained a little by the upper rubber (but that's just a rubber). I hope I am not wrong, I still have the valve, so if I have problems, a couple of days work to remove the rack and put back the valve would be ok, though not very funny.

I don't think the valve is harming anything anyway and it's not like you are adding 100kg to the car for so little benefits, so I say you did good.

[Pearldrummer7]

I had stomach issues in the last week to 2 weeks. Which lasted until I crossed the Canadian border on my way back. Then I shouted at the Canadian border and Transport Canada cuz I succeeded through my first huge step and I was so happy. loll Good thing none of them heard me, it wasn't pretty. lolll
haha! They would have been so confused. That's great

I test fitted the shaft with and without that valve and didn't see any difference. The thing is, it was just by hand, not on the car and driving it, so I don't know if under load (steering load that is, not engine) it will be ok. Others have trashed that valve too so that's why I decided to do it as well. On the long rod though, some have remove everything but the end cap. Mine looked a little different than most of the pix I've seen here, still I tried to remove all but there was a bigger piece I had to keep on one end of the rod, otherwise the rod was moving up and down and that was bad.
I did the same and didn't notice a difference. But, like you said, it's just a little weight and I'm not too worried about it. It will probably be fine either way.
Which rod are you talking about? The one with splines for the steering joint before the column?

Back to the shaft, mine is maintained solidly in place by the bottom bearing and the very bottom tip of the shaft, the portion that goes in the hole inside the rack itself and maintained a little by the upper rubber (but that's just a rubber). I hope I am not wrong, I still have the valve, so if I have problems, a couple of days work to remove the rack and put back the valve would be ok, though not very funny.
It wouldn't be all too much work. What year is your rack from? I think ours looked very similar, unlike all those "newer rack" guys (mine is from an 02)

I don't think the valve is harming anything anyway and it's not like you are adding 100kg to the car for so little benefits, so I say you did good.

Replies in red!

[Frank818]

Yes, the rod with splines, that beautiful smooth mirror-finish rod.

I have a 03 rack from an auto NA 2.5TS. 02 and 03 are supposed to be identical as far as I have read, but if I recall some 02 pix I have seen here, mine wasn't 100% identical on the rod stuff. But for the small shaft with valve, it looks exactly the same.

[Pearldrummer7]

Yes, the rod with splines, that beautiful smooth mirror-finish rod.

I have a 03 rack from an auto NA 2.5TS. 02 and 03 are supposed to be identical as far as I have read, but if I recall some 02 pix I have seen here, mine wasn't 100% identical on the rod stuff. But for the small shaft with valve, it looks exactly the same.

LOL mirror-finish. Not in NY!

Ah, gotcha. similar to mine for sure.



My big issue now is replacing the tie-rod boot. How the hell do you get that thing off without cutting it?? Mine is so unbelievably rusted.

[Pearldrummer7]

Carnage! Liberated my steering rack of that power steering piston/seal/thing. Also cleaned it up a bit. Definitely a lot of little stuff to button up (and a trans to rebuild....oh man) in the next two weeks.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3914/14298618548_3f1dc73893_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nMwa91)

[Frank818]

How the hell do you get that thing off without cutting it?? Mine is so unbelievably rusted.

The boot is rusted? Do you have a pic of that?
Normally you cut the rings that tie it in place and it slides off the tie-rod. I can't recall I got mines of cuz I changed the boots and tie-rods. So I didn't mind much of breaking them apart.

[Frank818]

Carnage! Liberated my steering rack of that power steering piston/seal/thing. Also cleaned it up a bit. Definitely a lot of little stuff to button up (and a trans to rebuild....oh man) in the next two weeks.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3914/14298618548_3f1dc73893_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nMwa91)

Yeah that looks pretty much like mine. Keep that c clip on the rod, you need it to prevent the piston from going to far away. You do have a piston that was lying just besides that big ring you cut off?

[Pearldrummer7]

The boot is rusted? Do you have a pic of that?
Normally you cut the rings that tie it in place and it slides off the tie-rod. I can't recall I got mines of cuz I changed the boots and tie-rods. So I didn't mind much of breaking them apart.

The tie-rod is rusted at the threads. Boot is torn in half so I'll need a new one. I'll add a pic tonight. What tie rods did you go to?


Yeah that looks pretty much like mine. Keep that c clip on the rod, you need it to prevent the piston from going to far away. You do have a piston that was lying just besides that big ring you cut off?

I'm not removing the c-clip from the rod. I am glad you're a few weeks ahead of me to work out these problems, Frank. I have a piston with a beveled section and a little black gasket on it. It slid around on the shaft pretty freely. I keep that, right?



Edit:
I reassembled part of the rack. Kept the little piston and the c-clip. It stops nicely at the end of the rack threads, and I think it's going to work nicely now. Here's the pic of the tie-rod that I can't get loose. I can't think of another way to get a new boot on there without breaking this thread loose:

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3847/14493421231_14e71967e8_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o5JzbX)

[Frank818]

I got the CTR tie-rods, powder coated black already (not the tie-rod end though). Just OEM-like replacement.

Yes that piston moves freely on one end, hits the end cap and C-clip. Without it, the rack rod will wobble on that end and that's very bad. I put a lot of grease to make it slide better and more freely, but most of the grease is pushed on the sides cuz the piston fits like a piston ring in a cylinder, it's very tight.

[Pearldrummer7]

I got the CTR tie-rods, powder coated black already (not the tie-rod end though). Just OEM-like replacement.

Yes that piston moves freely on one end, hits the end cap and C-clip. Without it, the rack rod will wobble on that end and that's very bad. I put a lot of grease to make it slide better and more freely, but most of the grease is pushed on the sides cuz the piston fits like a piston ring in a cylinder, it's very tight.

Ah, maybe I'll just get some replacement ones then. Might be worth it at this point.


Yup. I noticed that. With the piston in and end caps it moves pretty nicely and stops when it should. I just loaded it up with regular old automotive grease. Is that what you did too? I hope it has enough lube!

Edit: Ah, hell. They're only ~$35 a pop for replacements. I think that's what I'll do then. Thanks for the advice, Frank! A lifesaver per usual

[Frank818]

I use sort of automotive grease, yeah, lithium based that work on motorcycles, cars, etc. Anything mechanical like rods, bearings, gears...

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/12481/i/maxima-waterproof-grease

$35 is about the price, I can't recall if that is with or without the tie-rod end (with ball joint), I think it's without... If I remember, it cost me about $CAD200, but I replaced everything, the boots (20 each or so), tie-rods, tie-rod ends, ball joints, crush washers.

[Pearldrummer7]

GOT IT!

Before:
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5153/14332094789_d920c95dd2_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQtJsz)

After electrolysis:
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3837/14332111598_8bcf59eaab_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQtPso)


Frank: 1, Rust: ~400
I'll take any win I can get over rust at this point.
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2924/14515306221_4195a2ded2_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o7EJQn)


Also found an unused pegboard in our basement. Awesome!
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2925/14332109308_1acf99f4b7_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/nQtNLU)

[Frank818]

That rust removal certainly did work as hell! lolll You could save yourself some bucks by simply cleaning up the rods and painting/coating them. Don't forgot to remove the grease and put on some new.

[Pearldrummer7]

That rust removal certainly did work as hell! lolll You could save yourself some bucks by simply cleaning up the rods and painting/coating them. Don't forgot to remove the grease and put on some new.
Some new what? haha

[Pearldrummer7]

Here it is at FFR! Can't wait to grab it this Saturday!
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2931/14551875744_1728c1c955_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oaUaFo)


And here's what I worked on this weekend, along with another 5MT (man I'm getting good at splitting them apart), steering, and some random parts preparation.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5505/14526687776_eeebec7fd2_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o8F5b5)

I'm the one under the car, actually doing work. Just kidding. We did a lot on both bugeyes this weekend, and everyone was a big help. Good way to distract myself to help time pass till Saturday....it's like waiting for Christmas as a little kid!

[Frank818]

Have a nice trip!

[projectrally]

[QUOTE=Pearldrummer7;159889]Here it is at FFR! Can't wait to grab it this Saturday!
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2931/14551875744_1728c1c955_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oaUaFo)


Ha! I was down at FFR this week working on a new video (I'm the guy who made FFR's current promo DVD), and we filmed with your chassis a little bit. It looks great. You must be jumping out of your skin with excitement. I know I will be when I pick up mine!

[Frank818]

and we filmed with your chassis a little bit.

Well there you go Frank, you're now even most famous than you were! :)

[Pearldrummer7]

[QUOTE=Pearldrummer7;159889]Here it is at FFR! Can't wait to grab it this Saturday!
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2931/14551875744_1728c1c955_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oaUaFo)


Ha! I was down at FFR this week working on a new video (I'm the guy who made FFR's current promo DVD), and we filmed with your chassis a little bit. It looks great. You must be jumping out of your skin with excitement. I know I will be when I pick up mine!


Well there you go Frank, you're now even most famous than you were! :)

*blushes* I'm so flattered! That's awesome! Can't wait to see what you end up making for a video.

I am VERY excited still. The haul was long. Took 4.5 hours from my parents' house to Wareham, then ~7 to my new house from Wareham. Lots of stops to check on and fix up the kit. But WOW, what a facility. It's been said before, but that place is absolutely breathtaking. Factory Five is an incredible facility; nearly clean enough to eat off of the floor. Met Dave, the president, who is an awesome guy. FFR even gave us free shirts (just ask when you pick your kits up!) Toured the place, then loaded up!

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5501/14408444669_4e84b6fe4e_c.jpg
The diesel barely noticed the car's weight on the back. Did 75+ mph most of the way home.


Got it back, did some fiberglass organization, had a bunch of people over to see the kit, and promptly passed out on my couch- like the great host I am.


Yesterday, did the front firewall and hung up my inventory sheets in an attempt to start taking inventory. Man, there's a lot to do. More pics to come! I've been taking time-lapse photos with the GoPro. This week's goal- front suspension and inventory.

[Mitch Wright]

Congrats, my kit should be ready for pick up in 4 weeks.
Get yourself some EvapoRust works great, just finished my front and rear uprights, after a overnight soak and pressure wash they looked new.

[Pearldrummer7]

Congrats, my kit should be ready for pick up in 4 weeks.
Get yourself some EvapoRust works great, just finished my front and rear uprights, after a overnight soak and pressure wash they looked new.

I actually have parts in the electrolysis bucket de rusting right now. Seems to be working for me so far. Thanks!! Get ready, pick up is a big day! Are you far?

[projectrally]

Are you building this R with or without a full windshield?

[Pearldrummer7]

Are you building this R with or without a full windshield?

I will run the street windshield on the street and the R windscreen on tracks. At least, that's the plan.

[Pearldrummer7]

So, no power at home. Doing work by day light and flashlights.

Anyone ever have an issue with pedal fitment? Mine are a good 3/16's off. The pedals either line up with column on top or the supplied OEM pedal brace. Never both. Clutch pedal hits firewall too. Something is way out of whack.

[Frank818]

You mean the pedals are off so you don't feel comfortable when your feet are on them?

If I recall, my clutch can hit the firewall, but I doubt it needs to go that far to allow shifting (then I can put a stopper or something), so for now I am not worried.

[Mitch Wright]

I am in Bowling Green KY, still debating weather I will make the trip to pick it up or have it delivered, I need to decide pretty quick.. We are in getting ready to open a new Motorsports Park (NCM Motorsports Park) in September so time is at a premium. I have the car ordered for over a year so I am excited and ready.
My R will be track only.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I am in Bowling Green KY, still debating weather I will make the trip to pick it up or have it delivered, I need to decide pretty quick.. We are in getting ready to open a new Motorsports Park (NCM Motorsports Park) in September so time is at a premium. I have the car ordered for over a year so I am excited and ready.
My R will be track only.
Hi Mitch,
I suggest you pick it up yourself.
Not only do you get to see the place. More importantly, you get to meet the people.
I have a trailer in Cincinnati you are welcome to barrow.

My son and I are signed up to do a track day with ten-tenths on 0ctober 10-12
http://www.1010thsmotorsports.com/ncm-reg_1.html


31149

[Pearldrummer7]

You mean the pedals are off so you don't feel comfortable when your feet are on them?

If I recall, my clutch can hit the firewall, but I doubt it needs to go that far to allow shifting (then I can put a stopper or something), so for now I am not worried.

The pedal mount itself wasn't lining up. I had to do some...modifying. Pics of what I did tonight, nothing fancy.

Clutch does hit the firewall but just barely, but it shouldn't be an issue, like you said.

[Pearldrummer7]

I am in Bowling Green KY, still debating weather I will make the trip to pick it up or have it delivered, I need to decide pretty quick.. We are in getting ready to open a new Motorsports Park (NCM Motorsports Park) in September so time is at a premium. I have the car ordered for over a year so I am excited and ready.
My R will be track only.


Hi Mitch,
I suggest you pick it up yourself.
Not only do you get to see the place. More importantly, you get to meet the people.
I have a trailer in Cincinnati you are welcome to barrow.

My son and I are signed up to do a track day with ten-tenths on 0ctober 10-12
http://www.1010thsmotorsports.com/ncm-reg_1.html


31149

Mitch, my vote is also on pick up. It's an amazing experience. Frank will tell you the same thing; totally worth the drive. Just make sure to bring lots of ways to secure things if you use an open trailer and open truck bed. The fiberglass is super fragile and definitely can't hold up to much stress from wind.

[Frank818]

I suggest you pick it up yourself.
Not only do you get to see the place. More importantly, you get to meet the people.

This is worth money. Even if you end up paying the pick-up trip a little more than Stewart delivering to you, I very very highly recommend picking it up and seeing the place/people.

[projectrally]

I also vote for the self pick-up. They're always happy to give a tour and show you their other cars. Everyone there is very approachable and friendly. It's an amazing facility filled with great people, and it'll make your building experience more enjoyable if it starts there.

[Pearldrummer7]

Big update! a week or so into ownership, and here's where we are! (along with a tip and a question)

Floor is installed; when you're putting in any aluminum, remember- the stencil (dots of ink) go on the non-prime side. i.e. the side with worse quality control. Take that into consideration when you can see some of the aluminum paneling (such as the floor). I asked FFR and the little tab goes towards the front of the car to cover two holes they use to move the frame around during production. Also, I clamped the floor to the frame and traced the edges. Then I measured the distance to the rear of the car in a few easily-perpendicular places, removed the paneling and flipped it, then clamped it once it was re-measured. Made for easy work (though I'm sure many of you figured out this or better solutions already!) :

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2901/14461290799_df474d5083_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o2TTVZ)

Pedals, steering column, and steering rack are all mounted up. Just waiting for a rack boot from Subaru to get here (shipping got delayed...supposed to be here before the weekend). Pic is clearly pre-steering install.

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2937/14644661301_fea4049a22_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oj6HAn)

Prepping the fuel pump(Walbro 255) on the FFR supplied bracketry.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3865/14644667871_e44d6bae99_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oj6KxD)




Here comes the question. Did anyone else have a tough time installing the fuel pump assembly into the tank? It felt like a very tight fit. I finally moved it around from the "correct" position in the manual to one about 90* clockwise(looking down) and it ended up fitting much nicer. Here's what it looks like through the fuel vapor hole in the tank (sorry for bad quality). Is this okay?? It's (fairly lightly) resting the bottom part of the little filter on the base of the fuel tank. The pump itself is not hitting.
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2910/14462299278_334ff63aa5_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/o2Z4Hy)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Frank
The plastic grid on the bottom of the filter sock is designed to lay flat on the bottom of the tank.
I don't know if this is possible with the ffr tank.
Bob31284

[Pearldrummer7]

Frank
The plastic grid on the bottom of the filter sock is designed to lay flat on the bottom of the tank.
I don't know if this is possible with the ffr tank.
Bob31284

Oh cool. My Walbro pump has an aftermarket filter on it I believe (no plastic). It's close to laying flat; hopefully close enough! Thanks Bob!

[Frank818]

Wow the floor is on already. Moving fast! Will you have issues fitting the seat mounts if the floor is fixed? I think some others sweat for a while just cuz the floor was limiting access.

About fuel, I may change my forecast setup and thought of a Walbro. You are replacing the in-tank OEM pump with the Walbro and that's it? Walbro will fit in-tank? Basically, it's a straight swap, no special brackets or mods required?

[Pearldrummer7]

Wow the floor is on already. Moving fast! Will you have issues fitting the seat mounts if the floor is fixed? I think some others sweat for a while just cuz the floor was limiting access.

About fuel, I may change my forecast setup and thought of a Walbro. You are replacing the in-tank OEM pump with the Walbro and that's it? Walbro will fit in-tank? Basically, it's a straight swap, no special brackets or mods required?

Oh boy, I hope not! The manual has the seats after the floor IIRC so it shouldn't be that big a deal? It's a Kirkey so it's kinda small and open. We'll find out!

Yes. They're very good pumps and definitely necessary for motors like mine! It is a little longer with a slightly bigger filter (much more flow so more filter area) so it's kinda tricky to fit in. But it mounts the same way and is wired the same way. I recommend one!

[Frank818]

But it mounts the same way and is wired the same way. I recommend one!

I might have issues then. As I have kept none of the donor's fuel pump stuff, including the wiring. At that time my plan was to use my other donor's (Corrado) pumps (I got 2 in line) and wiring. I'll wait until I get there to find the solution.

[Pearldrummer7]

I might have issues then. As I have kept none of the donor's fuel pump stuff, including the wiring. At that time my plan was to use my other donor's (Corrado) pumps (I got 2 in line) and wiring. I'll wait until I get there to find the solution.

Oh, right. duh. I thought you'd use the Subaru fuel but the VW probably matches up a bit nicer. Once you get to that point, post some wiring diagrams and I would be glad to help figure out your best bet for fuel with you :)

[Pearldrummer7]

I'm back! 2.5 weeks of travel for work and vacation. Lovely to have time away, but I definitely missed making progress on the car!

Last night, I mounted the fuel tank. Note the water bottle full of lube.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5576/14842977185_33e672482a_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oBC8ZK)
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5579/14839895651_0907906bba_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oBmkXR)


Quick shot of the mount. I moved it back since I didn't like how the flange sat on the powdercoated corner there.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3915/14820006496_be6f3ef1b0_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ozApBo)

Also, gave my 2012 WRX some of this stuff:
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5579/14842976245_3aecf258cd_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oBC8Hx)
34K miles on her, some of them being pretty hard. Trans fluid came out perfectly clean and there was no metal to speak of on the drain plug. But, this new stuff is way quieter and a little easier to engage gears with(or it's all in my head). Good stuff for our transmissions; I think I'll be running this on the 818.

[longislandwrx]

that Motul is great stuff.. I put the Mobile 1 75/90 in last time because I didn't have time to order the Motul (I've used royal purple too) and the Motul feels the best. the Mobile 1 is noisier and not as smooth.

12k more miles and Gear 300 going back in

[Frank818]

What's that lube bottle for?

[Pearldrummer7]

What's that lube bottle for?

Drilling holes. Rasmus has said it before and it's so true: always drill with lube.

[Frank818]

Oh drilling! Yeah I use that all the time, I use some Motul 300V Competition as lube, it's much more efficient than any other oil! lolll Joking, any oil is the probably the same for this job. :) And not trying to sell Motul stuff either, though we are sort of sold already. :)

[Pearldrummer7]

Oh drilling! Yeah I use that all the time, I use some Motul 300V Competition as lube, it's much more efficient than any other oil! lolll Joking, any oil is the probably the same for this job. :) And not trying to sell Motul stuff either, though we are sort of sold already. :)

Hahah! I think my lube oil is mostly Rotella T6 (my Subaru engine oil of choice), but it's usually a cocktail of whatever is lying around :)

I'm quite sold on Motul 300 so far. Definitely going in my 5 speed.

[Pearldrummer7]

So, this question goes out to all of you drive-by-cable guys. How the heck did you thread the cable through the 1/4" hole they ask you to drill? Even if it was bigger, the little black plastic piece would need a much bigger hole to fit through. Frank, any advice??


Also, guess I'm doing some grinding of my Ebay rear suspension links. The rearward lower one is definitely not going to fit in the bracket as is. Silly Chinese Ebay parts.

[Frank818]

So, this question goes out to all of you drive-by-cable guys. How the heck did you thread the cable through the 1/4" hole they ask you to drill? Even if it was bigger, the little black plastic piece would need a much bigger hole to fit through. Frank, any advice??

Yes. I haven't done it yet, but a few people, I think Metal and Dan (RM1) at least, drilled a hole big enough, then drilled/saw a line 1/4" to slide the cable through it and in the small FFR hole. Then they plugged the bigger hole with a rubber plug (and whatever they did to plug the line). There are pix of that on someone's build, I hope he will read this. I have it noted somewhere but not off hands right now. :(


Also, guess I'm doing some grinding of my Ebay rear suspension links. The rearward lower one is definitely not going to fit in the bracket as is. Silly Chinese Ebay parts.

Should not, many of us with those knock-off ebay links had the same issue, due to the fact the spacers used take into account the OEM washers so that you don't need to use them. But FFR's brackets also eliminated the OEM washers, so the brackets are closer. Then the links are too wide to fit with their spacers and you have to grind them down 2-3mm on each side.

[RM1SepEx]

Frank is correct, bigger hole, make a bushing of a heavy washer with a slot, I'm surprised the manual isn't fixed on this one yet....

I also had to grind spacers on the lateral links, make sure to do a little off both sides

[Pearldrummer7]

Yes. I haven't done it yet, but a few people, I think Metal and Dan (RM1) at least, drilled a hole big enough, then drilled/saw a line 1/4" to slide the cable through it and in the small FFR hole. Then they plugged the bigger hole with a rubber plug (and whatever they did to plug the line). There are pix of that on someone's build, I hope he will read this. I have it noted somewhere but not off hands right now. :(
That's a great idea. Seems like I'll be following Dan's method on this one.


Should not, many of us with those knock-off ebay links had the same issue, due to the fact the spacers used take into account the OEM washers so that you don't need to use them. But FFR's brackets also eliminated the OEM washers, so the brackets are closer. Then the links are too wide to fit with their spacers and you have to grind them down 2-3mm on each side.
Wait, grind the links, right? Not the FFR mount. That's good that I'm not the only one. Figured that was the reason they didn't quite fit.




Frank is correct, bigger hole, make a bushing of a heavy washer with a slot, I'm surprised the manual isn't fixed on this one yet....

I also had to grind spacers on the lateral links, make sure to do a little off both sides

Awesome. Thanks, Dan. I'll be doing what you did. I'm almost considering revamping some of the manual pages and just emailing them to FFR (pro bono) for future builders' sakes.

[RM1SepEx]

That's a great idea. Seems like I'll be following Dan's method on this one.


Wait, grind the links, right? Not the FFR mount. That's good that I'm not the only one. Figured that was the reason they didn't quite fit.





Awesome. Thanks, Dan. I'll be doing what you did. I'm almost considering revamping some of the manual pages and just emailing them to FFR (pro bono) for future builders' sakes.

Don't bother, when we started I updated everything, IDed errors, wrong photos, by page etc... before the first printing... none of my inputs made it into the manual.... ever.... I stopped bothering to provide them with the inputs, just posted them on the forum and discussed with the other 5-6 early builders with build threads

[Goldwing]

Should not, many of us with those knock-off ebay links had the same issue, due to the fact the spacers used take into account the OEM washers so that you don't need to use them. But FFR's brackets also eliminated the OEM washers, so the brackets are closer. Then the links are too wide to fit with their spacers and you have to grind them down 2-3mm on each side.

Thanks for the explanation on why we had to grind them Frank. Makes a lot more sense now.

Pearl drummer, grind the conical bushings that fit into the end link of the lateral link (at least they were on mine which were aftermarket adjustables). The wide part before the taper, so that it mounts in the narrower 818 mount space.

[Frank818]

Thanks for the explanation on why we had to grind them Frank. Makes a lot more sense now.

No tnx for me Rich, if should all go to Jaime, if I remember he was the first to explain that. It's not coming from me, but I had to do it just a few days after he did and I came up with a different grinding method, explained in my thread.

You grind the conical bushings of the ebay links and also the straight cylindrical bushings of those links. It depends on which side you install one of the link, it seems to fit well either side, so it's up to you. On one end it has cylindrical bushings and on the other it has conical ones. But NO FFR parts is modified for this. At least I absolutely didn't need to.

[Pearldrummer7]

Yup, that's what I did:
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5588/14858375086_e2f1168bc3_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oCZ4fN)

Fit great now! I went junkyarding to get a front hub (as I broke one a while back)....got another driver hub when I needed a passenger one *facepalm*. Back to the junkayrd it is! Anyone need a not-too-rusty front driver hub?

Also started work on the rear hubs. They're really rusty (which I can deal with), but I still can't get the axle nut off. Didn't do it while it was on the car because I was given 1 week notice that I was losing my garage space and had to hustle. I underestimated how difficult it would be to remove them without a transmission to stick them into. Might just bite the bullet and get a new set.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3900/14694724159_74e5ee68aa_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oowix6)
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3839/14694764248_f87dbf149b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oowvsh)

[Pearldrummer7]

Also- got to drive a co-worker's car the other day. I'm sure everyone will know what it is right away, but here's a pic of one of the coolest parts of it:

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3870/14878913274_723a7c0054_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oENjxu)


Anyone consider machining a plate to make the 818 shifter gated instead of a boot? I haven't even looked into the mounting there, so I'm not sure it's even possible yet.

[Frank818]

I'll guess an R8.

I have considered doing something like the Pagani or Spyker Laviolette, but I am yet far from there, I need to fit a lot of parts in that area before I get into something. I thought of an armrest for which an extension would be the H plate, sort of higher than the bottom of the shifter. But I have a K-tuned shifter, not the FFR one.

I don't like your rear hub, yuk! :)

[Pearldrummer7]

I'll guess an R8.

I have considered doing something like the Pagani or Spyker Laviolette, but I am yet far from there, I need to fit a lot of parts in that area before I get into something. I thought of an armrest for which an extension would be the H plate, sort of higher than the bottom of the shifter. But I have a K-tuned shifter, not the FFR one.

I don't like your rear hub, yuk! :)

Yup! An R8. Really cool car. Just amazingly made. So much attention to detail....not a bad engine note, either ;)

My rear hubs are awful. Along with the transmission, definitely the biggest hurdles to me completing the car thus far.

[STiPWRD]

Didn't do it while it was on the car because I was given 1 week notice that I was losing my garage space and had to hustle. I underestimated how difficult it would be to remove them without a transmission to stick them into. Might just bite the bullet and get a new set.

Ouch, what r u gonna do without a garage? BTW I have an extra 2 front hubs (with shot bearings but not too rusty) and one rear hub with a good bearing

[Pearldrummer7]

Ouch, what r u gonna do without a garage? BTW I have an extra 2 front hubs (with shot bearings but not too rusty) and one rear hub with a good bearing

That was before when I had the donor car. Now I'm in a house with a much larger garage and I don't have to travel to get to it :D

Any chance you'd sell my the front passenger one? Yesterday I actually found someone selling the rears in good enough shape for me (new bearings and stiffer bushings). Rust doesn't scare me, as I intend to de rust and give them new bearings/ball joints anyway.

[STiPWRD]

Any chance you'd sell my the front passenger one? Yesterday I actually found someone selling the rears in good enough shape for me (new bearings and stiffer bushings). Rust doesn't scare me, as I intend to de rust and give them new bearings/ball joints anyway.

PM sent

[Pearldrummer7]

A month without updates! But no updates doesn't mean no progress!

Of course, my stupid 1986 Craftsman lawn mower's engine blew up. So, still retaining my college-kid mentality, I fixed it instead of buying a new one.....by swapping the motor. Popped a 1999 Kohler engine into it, made a wiring harness, and learned that the Kohler was fed fuel via gravity, not vacuum -_-
So I made a new fuel tank, relocated the battery to hang off the rear of the mower, got rid of the stock tank, and repainted the thing. Definitely slowed progress a little, as will my trip to southern California next week (woohoo training for work!). Here are a couple quick pics:

Fuel not permanently mounted in this pic*
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5591/15197821795_c03998ec2d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/p9YNWg)

It fits! Mostly
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5588/15011248057_4909e5ff58_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oSuz4F)
Battery mount:
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5563/15011248567_0027005c56_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oSuzdt)
Paint job:
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5587/15011029649_9242b28bfb_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oSts92)


Still needs work, but it's a fun little project that I'm now way more committed to than I intended.

[Pearldrummer7]

But, ANYWAY- car updates. Front suspension is mounted (except the hubs, which I intend to press bearings/seals into this week before I leave).
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5590/15197818365_95b262abc3_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/p9YMV8)

Used the stock links to get a good handle on approximate length for the adjustable Ebay ones. Test fitted the rear hub assemblies to make sure everything would work. I know I have to take off the links to put the axles in.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3897/15011026529_3094212e32_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oStrde)
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3903/15194780801_7c73844334_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/p9HdXk)

Wrapped the exhaust with lava wrap and steel zip ties.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3920/15197823865_4fc95dcff2_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/p9YPxX)
And I got a new toy! used to pop the engine in!
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3857/15011243327_a5650831f9_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oSuxE8)

[Rasmus]

Progress is looking good. I like the color of the suspension links.



https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3903/15194780801_7c73844334_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/p9HdXk)

You've got the trailing arms flipped. Convex side goes in. Concave side out.

[Pearldrummer7]

Progress is looking good. I like the color of the suspension links.


You've got the trailing arms flipped. Convex side goes in. Concave side out.

Are you sure? That's the same orientation as the manual shows; concave facing in.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5573/15013099840_9fb65e4815_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oSE4wY)

Unless I'm confused, which is quite possible.

[FFRSpec72]

Are you sure? That's the same orientation as the manual shows; concave facing in.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5573/15013099840_9fb65e4815_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oSE4wY)

Unless I'm confused, which is quite possible.

The picture in the manual is wrong, they go the other way so the tires fits, as I also followed the picture :-(

[wleehendrick]

Definitely slowed progress a little, as will my trip to southern California next week (woohoo training for work!).

Where are you off to? It's supposed to heat up here this weekend (90 at the coast and triple digits inland) so be prepared!

[Rasmus]

100% sure.

http://i.imgur.com/7yhkwno.jpg
Manual's got it wrong.

[Pearldrummer7]

The picture in the manual is wrong, they go the other way so the tires fits, as I also followed the picture :-(

Ah. I'll fix that. Thanks for the find, guys. I knew if I messed up it would get brought up immediately :)

Looks ways better, Rasmus. Thanks for the heads up!



Where are you off to? It's supposed to heat up here this weekend (90 at the coast and triple digits inland) so be prepared!

Headed to Lake Forest, near Irvine/South of LA. Can't wait for some warm weather and beaches!

Edit: Just checked the map. We''ll be pretty close, actually! haha if you feel like coming up to Lake Forest, let's meet up!

[wleehendrick]

Headed to Lake Forest, near Irvine/South of LA. Can't wait for some warm weather and beaches!

Edit: Just checked the map. We''ll be pretty close, actually! haha if you feel like coming up to Lake Forest, let's meet up!

Cool... My wife's from Orange County, so we get up there pretty often, but with work it would be tough to make the drive up and back on a week night. Definitely get down to Newport and/or Laguna Beach and if you need any pointers, let me know. The Crab Cooker in Newport and The Cellar in San Clemente (particularly if you like wine) are two of our favorites. You should also try to hook up with Brandon (Brando) to check out his 818R, since he's right next door to where you'll be.

[Pearldrummer7]

Cool... My wife's from Orange County, so we get up there pretty often, but with work it would be tough to make the drive up and back on a week night. Definitely get down to Newport and/or Laguna Beach and if you need any pointers, let me know. The Crab Cooker in Newport and The Cellar in San Clemente (particularly if you like wine) are two of our favorites. You should also try to hook up with Brandon (Brando) to check out his 818R, since he's right next door to where you'll be.

Oh awesome! I will reach out to Brandon and see if he wants to meet up. Always down to meet other 818 people!

I plan to hit both of those beaches, and I'll tell me co-worker (traveling with me) about the restaurants. Thanks for the suggestions; I can't t wait.

[wleehendrick]

Oh awesome! I will reach out to Brandon and see if he wants to meet up. Always down to meet other 818 people!

I plan to hit both of those beaches, and I'll tell me co-worker (traveling with me) about the restaurants. Thanks for the suggestions; I can't t wait.

Have a great trip! And if you need to do any shopping (gifts for family, etc...) South Coast Plaza is nearby in Costa Mesa; it's a "mall", but with lots of very high end shops. You could easily blow your whole 818 budget in one visit!

[Pearldrummer7]

Friend doing his first oil change on his Mk7 GTI while I .... remove the axle nuts from my super rusty ruined rear hubs. Few sparks to shed some light on the garage.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3838/15043483118_007ffe6f4b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oVkMqA)

We also came up with a few ideas, including a good way to do drive-by-cable mounting and such (since I don't think it's well documented or been done too many times).

[Pearldrummer7]

Pressed a wheel bearing for the first time today! Went smoothly, which is an inspiring sign. I used the old bearing's outer race to push on the new bearing's outer race.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3860/15138969348_4c8086c31d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/p4Mb9U)
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5558/15322402931_95614de13f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pkZjyT)

Realized I don't have enough bolts/nuts to attach it, so I'll have to order some more.


Also got the quote back from the guy who is repairing the LGT transmission I have (which wouldn't go into 1st)....$1,400 plus tax. Ouch. Needs a new second gear, 1-2 shift block, some bearings, synchros, etc. So, this begs the question....anyone have any clever ideas for transmissions? Perhaps a place to get them used(besides the forums, which I'm hunting).



Here is a screenshot from my GoPro video of the night autox I did in the WRX:
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3882/15304142316_04ef49d989_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pjnJjG)

Man, turns come on way faster at night than during the day! The videos are cool to watch. Definitely was a little less ballsy with my braking distances in the dark.

[Hindsight]

For used transmissions, check www.car-part.com. Its an online wrecker database. I have used it to find obscure parts very successfully.

[STiPWRD]

Give Andrewtech a call, they specialize in subaru transmissions and usually have some used ones on hand. (240) 683-1000

[Pearldrummer7]

For used transmissions, check www.car-part.com. Its an online wrecker database. I have used it to find obscure parts very successfully.


Give Andrewtech a call, they specialize in subaru transmissions and usually have some used ones on hand. (240) 683-1000

Thanks for the ideas, guys. I called my buddy Sam at Andrewtech and am getting an 06 WRX trans! That'll work for now.

Engine is installed, front hubs are on the car as well. The steering rack needs to be re-dyed at ball joint. Those threads have seen better days. Hopefully salvageable. Next up are things like mounting the seat, fuel lines/filter, and coolant hoses.
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3927/15407126581_8a67b2e2f8_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pttxXt)

Also, picking this beast up Friday! 5 speed, 4.9L straight 6, cap, and almost no rust(was a Southern truck before 2012). Drove it last night and put a deposit on it right away. Should do just fine as a tow-rig ;)
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3931/15223770658_eaf5d20fd7_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pcgNCs)

[FFRSpec72]

Where is the trailer? Fuel bottles, spare tires, etc.?

[Pearldrummer7]

Where is the trailer? Fuel bottles, spare tires, etc.?

haha one step at a time! All on the to-buy list :)

[Pearldrummer7]

*Sigh*

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2948/15429378685_1a140f74b9_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pvrAJr)

What's everyone's solution for this issue? Or is this a result of the engine I'm using/motor mounts? I was thinking I'll make a bracket that sits on top of both the reservoir and the engine, like a little bridge. That should keep it at about the same height(above the turbo) and allow it to bolt on without getting in the way.

Or am I overthinking this?

[billjr212]

Craig (Mechie3) is selling a bracket to solve this issue. Essentially what you are talking about - a little bridge to push the reservoir off to the side. I haven't bought it (yet) but did see it in person and it appears to be an effective and simple solution.

[billjr212]

link: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12393-Zero-Decibel-Motorsports-Coolant-Bracket-Relocation-Kit&highlight=coolant+reservoir+bracket

[Bob_n_Cincy]

*Sigh*

What's everyone's solution for this issue? Or is this a result of the engine I'm using/motor mounts? I was thinking I'll make a bracket that sits on top of both the reservoir and the engine, like a little bridge. That should keep it at about the same height(above the turbo) and allow it to bolt on without getting in the way.

Or am I overthinking this?

Mechie3 solution is very clean.
I have a radiator hose the goes to the back of the car through the space where the tank was. So I mounted it on top the bar.

34255

Oh, and I overthink everything, my engineering nature.
Bob

[AZPete]

Get Mechie3's bracket like many of us have done. And, you'll be helping one of the most helpful 818 builders.

[Pearldrummer7]

Awesome! I knew Craig would have something. Gives me an excuse to get a few more of his parts...and a t-shirt :)

He used to be a regular at the autocrosses I now attend, so I've heard a ton of good things about him and his meticulous work. Can't wait to get some 818 parts from such a respected guy.

[305mouse]

Craig is missed at those events in CNY

[Pearldrummer7]

Some 818 work this weekend, and a bunch of truck work! Since it was so close to having no rust, we decided to repaint the hood to eliminate the very little rust that was on the car. Sanded it down nearly to bare metal, primed, and painted. This after primer coat #2 of 3:

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5599/15270598119_7e3c2197ff_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pgpNNt)
Also, DA polished the rest of the truck. Took some serious slime off of it. DA polishers amaze me every time. (you can see a little "before" of the hood in this shot... lots of little chips and rust spots forming)
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3934/15457017912_f3fab7af7b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pxTfUQ)

[Pearldrummer7]

So, while running brake lines, I realized that if I followed the manual, my aluminum panels wouldn't sit flush with the frame. Here is where I'm talking about:

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5613/15449167386_3d0cc7f9be_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pxc2dW)


Instead, I was considering running them inside the passenger compartment, against the outside wall, like below. Anyone see any issues with that? Am I just missing another obvious solution?

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3955/15285621968_dde922703b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/phJNSm)

[Rasmus]

I'd mock up your interior panels and maybe even do their final install before you decide on placement of the brake lines, clutch lines, and coolant pipes. You'll be kicking yourself at the amount of work you've caused yourself if you do it the other way round.

[Pearldrummer7]

Aren't the 'interior panels' for the walls of the R on the exterior? Mine definitely don't fit on the inside. That was a large part of the reason for considering running the lines inside.

[FFRSpec72]

Aren't the 'interior panels' for the walls of the R on the exterior? Mine definitely don't fit on the inside. That was a large part of the reason for considering running the lines inside.

On newer ship dates the R came with exterior side panels that cover most of the cage, older versions did not have this and came with some of the S interior panles. I used the external panels on the inside and used anti-intrusion panels on outside.

[Rasmus]

The interior panels I was supplied don't fit anywhere well. With my R build I ended up fabbing a few panels and altering others. Thus my suggestion that you sort the panels first, then route the lines.

Now I need to see a picture of this new panel I didn't get.

[Pearldrummer7]

On newer ship dates the R came with exterior side panels that cover most of the cage, older versions did not have this and came with some of the S interior panles. I used the external panels on the inside and used anti-intrusion panels on outside.
Yup! I am however using the exterior on the exterior, as far as I can see now. And no panels for the inside. Unless there's a good reason, I just see it as extra effort and extra weight. Plus, the visible frame is badass if you ask me ;)


The interior panels I was supplied don't fit anywhere well. With my R build I ended up fabbing a few panels and altering others. Thus my suggestion that you sort the panels first, then route the lines.

Now I need to see a picture of this new panel I didn't get.


Here it is! It fits so nicely on the outside that I can't imagine using anything else.
https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2947/15287750737_33d9697a30_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/phVHFg)
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3941/15287690458_2971d7ff0b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/phVpKY)

Even has a nice little spot for the lower rear and upper right corners to fit in.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5600/15287429109_26ca8b28f5_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/phU54X)


FWIW- we (my company makes auto-aluminum) always stencils on the non-prime side of the aluminum. Since the fiberglass will cover the outside, I put the prime (non-stenciled) side facing in, where a driver/passenger would see it (since the driver and passenger exterior metal are mirrored). I'm doing this wherever is possible with the supplied panels.

[Rasmus]

You lucky *******. That panel would have made my life so easy.

[Pearldrummer7]

You lucky *******. That panel would have made my life so easy.

When did your kit ship? I wonder how recent it was that this piece was added. Seems they make the kit "better" as time goes on, understandably so. Hopefully this doesn't end up jacking the price up too much.

[Pearldrummer7]

Ran my rear brake lines last night, despite everyone's warnings (I'm sure I'll come to regret that...). Ran them on the inside of the frame instead of the outside. Excited how they turned out. Used the little rubber clamps to prevent them from rattling.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5610/15292063870_0ac31b6886_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/piiPPC)
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3935/15292202617_808884b676_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pijx4P)
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5611/15478412552_fbd270ae0d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pzLUMW)

[Rasmus]

When did your kit ship? Date on the Red Card that was taped to my chassis: February 8th, 2014

[nuisance]

My build date was 3/12/14, and I got the panels

[Pearldrummer7]

So, here is my idea for seat mounting. Kirkey brackets for my Kirkey seat with these pieces of 3/16" steel bolted to the frame that I got from Lowes. Thoughts?

https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2946/15482842362_1e4c936d08_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pAaBBY)
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3947/15296547418_4b74770fb6_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/piGNCb)



Edit: I should say that I measured the height, and about 1.65" from the floor is great for steering wheel position, fine for visibility, and seems to keep the shoulders at ~15*. The center harness piece clears the frame. Not entirely sure what else I need to do to make it safe beyond that.

[AZPete]

"Not entirely sure what else I need to do to make it safe beyond that."

Have you considered fastening the steel pieces to the floor? :eek:

[Pearldrummer7]

"Not entirely sure what else I need to do to make it safe beyond that."

Have you considered fastening the steel pieces to the floor? :eek:

" 3/16" steel bolted to the frame that I got from Lowes"

;)

[GUNS]

That's essentially what I did for mounting my seats. Doesn't mean it's the right way, but it's what I did.

[STiPWRD]

So, here is my idea for seat mounting. Kirkey brackets for my Kirkey seat with these pieces of 3/16" steel bolted to the frame that I got from Lowes.

Looks good, I think I'll do the same. My seat brackets only rest on the X frame on the floor in the back and at the middle, the front of the brackets are unsupported. This looks like a simple way to support the front.

[JeromeS13]

" 3/16" steel bolted to the frame that I got from Lowes"

;)

The NASA CCRs only require 1/8" steel or 1/4" aluminum. He's perfectly within that.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

For my son and I, we need the seat as low as possible to keep our heads below the roll bar. We have 4 5/16" rivnuts in the "X" bars and 4 matching holes in the bottom of the Kirkey seat to match. Our seat is also bolted similarly to the top square tube in the rear fire wall. No seat brackets at all, Rasmus would be proud.
Bob

[tmoretta]

How/where are you bolting your harness lap belts?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

How/where are you bolting your harness lap belts?
I don't have a picture right now. I'll post one this weekend.
Bob

[drdracing]

I used the Kirkey brackets as well. I was able to line up the mounting holes on the inboard brackets with the cross braces in the frame. Then I cut the tops off the square tubing and welded the flat stock in flush to keep things as low as possible. I only had to do that on the outboard bracket to get good support. Rick

[Pearldrummer7]

I used the Kirkey brackets as well. I was able to line up the mounting holes on the inboard brackets with the cross braces in the frame. Then I cut the tops off the square tubing and welded the flat stock in flush to keep things as low as possible. I only had to do that on the outboard bracket to get good support. Rick

Wow, that sounds like a great idea. Any pics, Rick?


Thanks for the replies, all. I think I'm sticking with it as-is for now. Going to run some bolts (4 per bracket) through the frame, and then separately bolt the brackets to the 2" wide steel. This will give me a little flexibility in terms of forward/backward mounting, I think. What's the ideal seat angle? Anyone have an idea? or is it purely a preference thing?

[Pearldrummer7]

Here it is! I actually don't -love- the angle it's at; I think I'll move it back a hair still. I took some pics of belt angles and such but they're all blurry. Seems like it's ~10-12* down on the shoulders, and nothing is hitting the seat. What do you guys check for the seat being in the right position? Pedals and wheel feel comfy (I did the wrist test on the wheel and it's perfect), I can see, and the harness clears/is at a decent angle. Anything else I'm missing?

Mocked up (not yet tightened down; that cleaned up the non-straight part):
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3934/15369249258_1dd561cfe6_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pq8qmb)

And installed!
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3956/14935205013_009ce7c8b4_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oKLQ7H)

[D Clary]

Hate to backtrack but if you use the side panels on the outside isn't there a large space between the firewall and the outside panel? Mine came with those outside panels but no inside so I cut them up and made the inside panels. Also my seat mounts34771347723477334774

[Pearldrummer7]

Hate to backtrack but if you use the side panels on the outside isn't there a large space between the firewall and the outside panel? Mine came with those outside panels but no inside so I cut them up and made the inside panels. Also my seat mounts34771347723477334774

I think I'll have to be a little farther along(rear firewall installed) before I figure out exactly what that needs. Is that the only panel you're planning to run there? Those seat brackets look good, and light.

Did some brake plumbing. They're in good spots, I think. Used a rivnut to install the Willwood proportioner (with some McMaster 1/4's I had lying around). The ends do extend a little bit past the brackets. Is that a problem?
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3950/15396444100_da73c3f162_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pswNqL)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5602/14961903303_00dcf1232c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/oN8EA4)

[D Clary]

I don't really plan any side by side racing, mostly auto x and hill climb so an Intrusion panel is not high on my list. If the situation changes I'll add a panel on the outside.

[Pearldrummer7]

I don't really plan any side by side racing, mostly auto x and hill climb so an Intrusion panel is not high on my list. If the situation changes I'll add a panel on the outside.

Good to know. I figured that was the general "rule" with paneling.

I was thinking of doing a hybrid inside/outside panel, much like Rasmus (yet another idea I'm hijacking from him....just like the Reddit karma).

[Pearldrummer7]

Tons of work done this weekend. Transmission installed and coolant lines are underway. Brakes got some progress, too. Coolant line question for all you R guys with later build-dates- How are you running the lines through the front of the aluminum siding if you have the solid aluminum wall? Shown in my second picture below.

Here's some pics:

South Bend stage 1 clutch and ACT Streetlight flywheel installed
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7525/15571130170_86f6144a2f_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pHY7vy)

Installing the trans
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7526/15732238186_d0654778f3_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pYcQiY)

Andrewtech transmission installed!
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7511/15135981244_210c16f6c9_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/p4vRTS)

Found a home for all my stickers!
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3949/15732236526_1da4dbc38e_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pYcPPm)

[Tamra]

Great progress!

[FFRSpec72]

I put anti-intrusion panels on the side and used the aluminum on the inside but I ran the cooling pipes down the side and used a 2.5" hole saw to cut through the 1/8 steel panel and also the aluminum on the inside and will also run the dead pedal to cover up the pipe so no one gets their foot caught and there will be some protection from a burst hose

35597

[Pearldrummer7]

So, I was in Brazil for work recently and didn't get a whole lot done. Did brake stuff this weekend and ran into a little problem :(

http://i.imgur.com/j7LUuyK.jpg

So close, yet so far away. What does everyone recommend for this? Remounting the hard line bracket? Cutting up a "medium length" brake line and reflaring myself? Brakes look good otherwise.
http://i.imgur.com/iib2CLg.jpg

[Frank818]

Remounting the hard line bracket on the front side of the tube. That's where I fitted mine after test fitting with my custom length braided lines.

[Pearldrummer7]

Remounting the hard line bracket on the front side of the tube. That's where I fitted mine after test fitting with my custom length braided lines.

I did exactly that! It fit just right now. Tightened up the brakes and I'm just about ready for wheels!



Also got into some shifter work this weekend. Man, those cables are cool!
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8681/15796585799_4352ff24f8_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/q4TCBz)
Test fit with the seat so I can pretend to slam gears :D
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7483/15796870257_3fdf1484d9_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/q4V6b2)

[Pearldrummer7]

Also found this gem of a coolant hose in Advanced Auto. It was $13 I think, and it's so long! Has some cool bend in it, too. I'm using this to reroute my coolant lines on the passenger side of the car.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7542/15795393980_f9333304de_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/q4MwjY)

[Frank818]

Happy to help, Frank, it's great when you say something and it helps someone else. :)

Those are the FFR supplied shifter cables?

[Pearldrummer7]

Happy to help, Frank, it's great when you say something and it helps someone else. :)

Those are the FFR supplied shifter cables?

It's definitely great when that happens! You're a huge help, as are most people on this forum.

Those are the supplied cables. Are you using them or do you have to do something different?

[Frank818]

I don't know if I can use the FFR cables with the K-Tuned shifter and I didn't check if length was working with my engine, but I already bought a custom length set from Wayne for race cables, apparently people like the feeling of these cables. Bought them a long time ago but could only provide the length recently.

[Pearldrummer7]

Coolant lines and the nose are on! Coolant lines are on the passenger side because racecar (and ballast). I looked at the nose a few times, only to realized that it doesn't need a bracket and isn't the same as in the manual. No mount/bracket necessary; it just bolts right up.

Also, my pack of 8 3/8"-16 x 1" bolts was down a bolt. Seems to be the story of this build for me! (one bolt short)

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8564/15806914390_bb6474fa7e_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/q5NyWJ)

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8578/15806795098_da4d425b48_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/q5MXtY)

[Santiago]

Are your upper radiator support brackets backwards or did you swap sides? Not sure it really matters, but I thought the scalloped holes in the angle bar go to the outside.

Minor thing, but mostly I'm just jealous that you're making progress. =)

Best,
-j

[Tamra]

Will the coolant lines both fit through the dead pedal area, by routing them both on the passenger side? Any issues you've ran into doing it this way? Seems like a great idea.

EDIT: never mind, you have an R. Do you know of anyone who's done this with an S?

[Pearldrummer7]

Will the coolant lines both fit through the dead pedal area, by routing them both on the passenger side? Any issues you've ran into doing it this way? Seems like a great idea.

EDIT: never mind, you have an R. Do you know of anyone who's done this with an S?

It's not an issue with the R(as you mentioned) however, I bet if you just stuck the flex tube through that spot without committing to anything you could see if it fits on the S. I would imagine it fits, just at a glance. I think I'm still running mine through that area.

Only issues so far are that it's:
1) a little longer of a run
2) the bend is a little more extreme coming from the lower coolant line at the block. I kind of got around that by buying a different flexible hose (from some GMC truck at Advanced Auto) and using that instead of the WRX one.



Are your upper radiator support brackets backwards or did you swap sides? Not sure it really matters, but I thought the scalloped holes in the angle bar go to the outside.

Minor thing, but mostly I'm just jealous that you're making progress. =)

Best,
-j
Thanks, J! I did swap them and they fit a little nicer now. Good eye!

[FFRSpec72]

Coolant lines and the nose are on! Coolant lines are on the passenger side because racecar (and ballast). I looked at the nose a few times, only to realized that it doesn't need a bracket and isn't the same as in the manual. No mount/bracket necessary; it just bolts right up.


I had the issue of getting the wrong steering rack bracket, as the nose mount bolts and the steering rack bolts were on top of each other, with the new rack bracket and single spacer all went well

[Pearldrummer7]

Since it's now cold in the garage, I'm doing some stuff that's possible inside the house.

Splicing the fuel pump and level sensor right now. These are the connections I'm planning to make for them:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7462/15835795138_5582e79e16_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/q8mAbE)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7481/16021281571_387e15c70f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qpKfQB)

Here's a live-action shot of the connectors for the level sensor:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7501/16023221225_53fee617e7_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qpVcqV)

[JeromeS13]

Interesting. What year/model is that schematic from? It appears to not have a fuel pump controller?

[K3LAG]

Looks like it's an NA schematic. Only the turbo cars have the fuel pump controller.

Larry

[Pearldrummer7]

Interesting. What year/model is that schematic from? It appears to not have a fuel pump controller?


Looks like it's an NA schematic. Only the turbo cars have the fuel pump controller.

Larry

*facepalm*

I noticed that and immediately updated my wiring/harness thread, and not this thread. A game of Settlers of Catan got in the way (for the last 4 hours...I won, though! :) ) of me correcting this.

I'm not at all sure where I'm splicing the pump yet. Does anyone have any suggestions?

[Pearldrummer7]

AWESOME present from my Reddit Secret Santa:

http://imgur.com/djXUh0D

Very cool, especially since I didn't have a shift knob on the car yet. This one's relatively light and a good size, too.



Hope everyone on the forums had a great holiday!

[Frank818]

Nice chrome knob.

[Pearldrummer7]

Nice chrome knob.

Thanks, Frank!

[wleehendrick]

Nice chrome knob.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=36863&d=1419695636


:p

Looks good, Frank!


36863

[Pearldrummer7]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=36863&d=1419695636


:p

Looks good, Frank!


36863

Haha this is fantastic. I don't use Michael Scott flavored memes nearly enough.


Finished my side paneling:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7496/15934159189_4f9a538cb5_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qh3Joz)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7582/15500512493_2fc933c8cf_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pBJbkp)

[Pearldrummer7]

So, I got rid of that pesky coolant path running around the throttle body. Slightly colder air temps, here I come! Not shown in the pic is that I repurposed the original (photo right) hose by attaching the throttle side to the right coolant line and the right side to the left coolant line.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8657/16169400565_c14c0dbb39_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qCQpsn)


My friends and I were discussing some of the logistics of PCV vs. VTA vs. catch can, and it turns out I will at least be plugging these two holes on the intake:

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7527/15549630123_3acf3cd590_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pG4Vi6)


I hear VERY mixed reviews on deleting the PCV system. Our thought was to plug all but the "main" crankcase outlet, and have that one vent to atmosphere through a filter. This way, I'm never feeding vaporized oil into my intake, but can still keep nearly neutral pressure in my crankcase. Please explain to me why this won't work.

[Tamra]

You want the heads and both block spots breathing. The ideal way is to run the center crank vent back into an unbaffled fitting on the heads (you have to put a new fitting on the 205 heads to do this; the 257 heads already have the fitting and that is how it is run from the factory, minus the catch cans), and then run the baffled vent on the heads to a T with each other and a catch can, and run the baffled crank to a catch can. Then you can get vacuum from wherever you want or vent to atmosphere.

We did not drill out the heads before assembly, so what we are doing is running the two block spots together into a catch can, and the two baffled ports on the heads together into a catch can, and having both pull vacuum from the exhaust with a venturi. We will wind up with a bit of oil coming out of the center crank vent because it is not baffled but oh well.

Here's a photo of ours. You can see the two hoses running into the T (we reused the original one). The top port that is open in this photo now has a hose on it running to a catch can:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/489C4DE2-5BEB-482F-A8DB-5D10327FBEB1_zpsqhv8bt2v.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/489C4DE2-5BEB-482F-A8DB-5D10327FBEB1_zpsqhv8bt2v.jpg.html)

[Pearldrummer7]

Slotted the coolant hose pass through so it was at less of an angle. I think it's a cool idea. Anyone see a reason this is not a good move?

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8622/15582981074_3a519bbfac_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pK1Rnu)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7518/16205378355_bfe65cd1ea_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qG1Np6)

[Pearldrummer7]

You want the heads and both block spots breathing. The ideal way is to run the center crank vent back into an unbaffled fitting on the heads (you have to put a new fitting on the 205 heads to do this; the 257 heads already have the fitting and that is how it is run from the factory, minus the catch cans), and then run the baffled vent on the heads to a T with each other and a catch can, and run the baffled crank to a catch can. Then you can get vacuum from wherever you want or vent to atmosphere.

We did not drill out the heads before assembly, so what we are doing is running the two block spots together into a catch can, and the two baffled ports on the heads together into a catch can, and having both pull vacuum from the exhaust with a venturi. We will wind up with a bit of oil coming out of the center crank vent because it is not baffled but oh well.

Here's a photo of ours. You can see the two hoses running into the T (we reused the original one). The top port that is open in this photo now has a hose on it running to a catch can:
http://i1374.photobucket.com/albums/ag408/wrx818/Build/489C4DE2-5BEB-482F-A8DB-5D10327FBEB1_zpsqhv8bt2v.jpg (http://s1374.photobucket.com/user/wrx818/media/Build/489C4DE2-5BEB-482F-A8DB-5D10327FBEB1_zpsqhv8bt2v.jpg.html)

I really like this. I will be doing exactly this set up with a catch can I think. I didn't drill out a spot for a fitting on the 205 heads I have, so I'm not left with a lot of options.

[Pearldrummer7]

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7544/16097969578_8e209183e6_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qwwivC)

Popped the WRX wheels on it, just to see. Torqued suspension to spec beforehand. They definitely don't fit (+48mm offset) :lol:

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Popped the WRX wheels on it, just to see. Torqued suspension to spec beforehand. They definitely don't fit (+48mm offset) :lol:

What size tires and where did they not fit?

[C.Plavan]

Slotted the coolant hose pass through so it was at less of an angle. I think it's a cool idea. Anyone see a reason this is not a good move?

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8622/15582981074_3a519bbfac_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pK1Rnu)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7518/16205378355_bfe65cd1ea_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qG1Np6)

It will be fine as long as you place rubber around the holes- The metal will eventually rub through and give you a coolant leak. You can just get some fuel hose, cut it length wise and put it over the cut edges as a rubber gasket.

[Pearldrummer7]

What size tires and where did they not fit?
It's the +48mm offset that doesn't work. Rubs the rear links pretty bad. They're 17x8 wheels with 235/45 Z2's on them (for the WRX I daily drive)


It will be fine as long as you place rubber around the holes- The metal will eventually rub through and give you a coolant leak. You can just get some fuel hose, cut it length wise and put it over the cut edges as a rubber gasket.

Oh good call, Chad. Thanks for that.

[Harley818]

From what I read on the forum as well as on the Impreza forum I'm going to use two catch cans. One takes the two lines from the valve covers, through the first catch can and into a port on the intake, the other takes the main crankcase vent through the second catch can to the port on the intake. They say to run them separately as they have different rates of flow that you don't want to mix.
I'm new to the Subaru engines so I hope this works out.
Anyone see any problems with this set up?

[Scargo]

Harley818, You've left out a lot of details. Why are you wanting catch-cans? I'm not familiar with your goals for the car. Mainly, what happens to what you are catching?
I don't know how many dissertations and warnings I've put out about this, but if you run more than stock boost (and a few other factors) you run a high risk of busting ring-lands of stock pistons if oil from the catch-cans ever finds its way into the intake. You may have inspection/emissions issues to deal with, or no, but if you are modding it to a VTA (vent to atmosphere) setup you should consider letting it go back into the engine and not build up in a can.
I hope we don't suck the oxygen out of Frank's thread with a long-winded discussion on this topic right here. Why not ask it on your thread? I'll bet you a dollar to a donut there's already a thread started on the subject.

[metalmaker12]

Crawford or Perrin Aos is all that's truely proven to work correctly in all conditions with little maintance period.
http://www.maperformance.com/blog/best-sti-air-oil-separator-perrin-crawford/

[Pearldrummer7]

From what I read on the forum as well as on the Impreza forum I'm going to use two catch cans. One takes the two lines from the valve covers, through the first catch can and into a port on the intake, the other takes the main crankcase vent through the second catch can to the port on the intake. They say to run them separately as they have different rates of flow that you don't want to mix.
I'm new to the Subaru engines so I hope this works out.
Anyone see any problems with this set up?


Harley818, You've left out a lot of details. Why are you wanting catch-cans? I'm not familiar with your goals for the car. Mainly, what happens to what you are catching?
I don't know how many dissertations and warnings I've put out about this, but if you run more than stock boost (and a few other factors) you run a high risk of busting ring-lands of stock pistons if oil from the catch-cans ever finds its way into the intake. You may have inspection/emissions issues to deal with, or no, but if you are modding it to a VTA (vent to atmosphere) setup you should consider letting it go back into the engine and not build up in a can.
I hope we don't suck the oxygen out of Frank's thread with a long-winded discussion on this topic right here. Why not ask it on your thread? I'll bet you a dollar to a donut there's already a thread started on the subject.


Crawford or Perrin Aos is all that's truely proven to work correctly in all conditions with little maintance period.
http://www.maperformance.com/blog/best-sti-air-oil-separator-perrin-crawford/

For what it's worth, I intend to run the V1 Crawford AOS (which is not heated by coolant, as this is a summer car) on my 818. As long as you're good about emptying it, I don't think it's unsafe to run. Plus it gives you insight into how much oil you're sending out.

[Pearldrummer7]

Okay, electrical question! I'm trying to remove some of the complexity on the car's wiring. Here's a big one I found that I'm convinced I can do without:


The original starter circuit involves a relay to disallow starting the car if it's not happy about security (that definitely is getting bypassed), a switch for the clutch to be down (that's a pain in the *** as getting in/out of this car isn't as easy as a normal car), and a relay that locks out starting if the clutch switch isn't down.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8668/15688975323_2513fb5125_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/pUo6Lx)


Here's the new circuit I propose for this:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7578/16308002192_55e7e9ed52_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qR5LTA)


What's everyone think?

[billjr212]

If you go that route, i would make the "hand switch" a momentary switch. That way you have to consciously push it prior to starting the car. Prevent an oops moment by trying to start the car with it in gear. Doubles as a security feature, I suppose, as well. Would have to be by your left hand though, since your right would be busy turning the key.

[Jaime]

Why take the clutch switch out? If you are concerned about starting the car while working on it, just get a $20 remote switch (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pow-pow301220).

I wired in a relay in my fusebox to run the starter so I wouldn't have to run the starter solenoid wire the length of the car.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/StarterCircuit_zps6e06e8b4.png

[tmoretta]

I jumpered my clutch switch temporarily. This way I don't have to climb in the car any time I want to start it. When the car is fully driveable and registered I will re-connect the switch.

[Pearldrummer7]

I jumpered my clutch switch temporarily. This way I don't have to climb in the car any time I want to start it. When the car is fully driveable and registered I will re-connect the switch.


Why take the clutch switch out? If you are concerned about starting the car while working on it, just get a $20 remote switch (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pow-pow301220).

I wired in a relay in my fusebox to run the starter so I wouldn't have to run the starter solenoid wire the length of the car.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/StarterCircuit_zps6e06e8b4.png
The main reason was to eliminate the relay (as that was my last relay in the block, I could eliminate the entire block), but I obviously could just have it interrupt the start wire. The remote switch is a nice idea though.


If you go that route, i would make the "hand switch" a momentary switch. That way you have to consciously push it prior to starting the car. Prevent an oops moment by trying to start the car with it in gear. Doubles as a security feature, I suppose, as well. Would have to be by your left hand though, since your right would be busy turning the key.

Yup, should've mentioned it'd be a push button or something. And security by obscurity, right?

[EODTech87]

You can just take a hacksaw to that set of relays so that the starter interlock relay is by itself

[Scargo]

This might help the above discussion of catch-cans. Might also leave you even more perplexed. It's the latest from a long-running discussion on IWSTI called "The Official STi engine Venting, A/O Separators, and Catch Cans Thread!!" (http://www.iwsti.com/forums/4101785-post1491.html)

[Pearldrummer7]

You can just take a hacksaw to that set of relays so that the starter interlock relay is by itself
Doing just that. Excellent call.


This might help the above discussion of catch-cans. Might also leave you even more perplexed. It's the latest from a long-running discussion on IWSTI called "The Official STi engine Venting, A/O Separators, and Catch Cans Thread!!" (http://www.iwsti.com/forums/4101785-post1491.html)

That helped, then made me more confused, now it makes sense again. A lot to think about with catch cans! Thanks for this.



After some discussion with many people about trying to get the wheels I want (RPF1), I finally found someone who can help with the rears, and someone else who can help with the fronts -_- much better than nothing, though!

I'm going to buy 17x8 +45mm fronts (or should I do the 35mm ones they offer?) and the 18x9.5 +38 rears. Tough to find that combo in 5x100 flair, and it'll be a little costly, but they're so light! (15.6 and 18.6 lbs!) Anyone see an issue with my sizing?

[Pearldrummer7]

Doing some wiring on the dining room table :lol: it's almost done!

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7307/16427166415_2ac7250b3b_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/r2Bwga)IMG_1289 (https://flic.kr/p/r2Bwga)

[wleehendrick]

Doing some wiring on the dining room table :lol: it's almost done!

:eek: You can't be married!

Do you respect wood?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17hnNOFaRH4

[STiPWRD]

Doing some wiring on the dining room table :lol: it's almost done!

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7307/16427166415_2ac7250b3b_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/r2Bwga)IMG_1289 (https://flic.kr/p/r2Bwga)
I'm pretty much at the same stage, most of the trimming is done, just gotta test fit it in the car. Mine has been sprawled out on the basement floor the past 2 weeks :)

[Pearldrummer7]

:eek: You can't be married!

Do you respect wood?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17hnNOFaRH4
haha! The Walmart wood is holding up astoundingly well to the abuse it's sustained since we got it a year ago. I'm extremely single, as shown by this picture.



I'm pretty much at the same stage, most of the trimming is done, just gotta test fit it in the car. Mine has been sprawled out on the basement floor the past 2 weeks :)

It's a good feeling. I've done a little test fitting here and there. Always more modifying to be done to the harness, though.


It's kind of stalling to wait for wheels/tires/warmer weather to arrive.

[Pearldrummer7]

The fronts fit great (17x8 +35)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7308/16438086322_2ef4f128c9_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/r3zunq)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7366/15818963613_fcf2325677_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/q6SjKX)

The rears... (18x9.5 +38) aren't even remotely close. I measured quickly and need at least an ~8mm spacer to comfortably clear I think. Which is too much I think. I'm sure Wayne's mod (which I intend to do either way) will help with that, but not that much I think.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7433/16253119557_8064323a30_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qLeucg)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7304/16252772639_b3244c22c7_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qLcH4V)


According to Rev F of the manual, I can run this size -_- That's what I get for listening to the manual!
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8588/16256266987_4c030b7087_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qLvBPi)



Also, replacing the crap Subaru provides in the harness with heatshrink crimp connectors:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7414/16252760869_5018c218b2_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qLcDyZ)


What's everyone else doing?

[Frank818]

Also, replacing the crap Subaru provides in the harness with heatshrink crimp connectors:

What's everyone else doing?

Tie-wraps and electric tape. :)

[Jaime]

Also, replacing the crap Subaru provides in the harness with heatshrink crimp connectors:
It would be better to pull the tape and put your own heat shrink over the factory crimps. It's hard to do better than machine-crimped.

I generally soldered and heat shrunk everything that I had to lengthen. I agree with many that a good crimp is better than a good solder joint. But, a good solder joint is better than a bad crimp and I'm good at soldering.

[Pearldrummer7]

It would be better to pull the tape and put your own heat shrink over the factory crimps. It's hard to do better than machine-crimped.

I generally soldered and heat shrunk everything that I had to lengthen. I agree with many that a good crimp is better than a good solder joint. But, a good solder joint is better than a bad crimp and I'm good at soldering.

Well, I'm a better crimper than solderer(what a weird word to say), so hopefully mine hold up alright! I actually slide heatshrink under the heatshrink part of the connector to further protect it. They shrink together very nicely IMO.



Alternator/AC bracket? More like alternator/fuel filter bracket! Anyone see anything wrong with re-purposing this to hold onto my fuel filter(as long as I have enough slack in the incoming fuel line to accommodate for the fuel filter moving with the engine)?

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7437/15839123943_c1887bdb3c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/q8DDHR)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7379/15839123623_5a2bac5176_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/q8DDCk)

[STiPWRD]

You're probably ok but the fuel filter may dangle over time due to vibration. I think I'll be mounting mine to the frame.

[svanlare]

I really like the heat shrink crimps. I've used them extensively on several track cars, and when I start the wiring on mine in a couple weeks that is exactly what I'll be using.

[Pearldrummer7]

You're probably ok but the fuel filter may dangle over time due to vibration. I think I'll be mounting mine to the frame.


I really like the heat shrink crimps. I've used them extensively on several track cars, and when I start the wiring on mine in a couple weeks that is exactly what I'll be using.

Thanks for the replies. I'll have to keep an eye on how it holds up to being mounted on the engine. Heat shrink connectors rock!

So, it is snowy up here. Most snow I've ever seen on the ground, I think. This is a quick view out of our back door. We have feet of snow everywhere, and it's going to keep coming for the next week it seems.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8569/15892170874_356fb5f00e_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qdkwJ7)


I filled my transmission with some Motul 300, and it promptly started filling the garage floor with the same. I had to replace the passenger side diff bearing, which luckily my local dealership had in stock! (Romano Subaru in Syracuse is just fantastic, in case anyone was wondering). I marked the sundial with paint and counted the turns coming off so I could get the same depth as last time. Did you know that if you flip the little bolt-on locker (bottom right of sundial, with paint on it), it is half a tooth off? Word of caution in case anyone else ever has to do this. I found that a a 34mm socket works quite well. Also, don't remove both sundials at once; your diff will fall down and I think you'll make more work for yourself.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7346/16327013018_2c28357ca4_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qSLd9s)
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8624/16328464339_eae4c81e7d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qSTDze)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7362/16513705222_31354d8116_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rag4ey)



Also continued to test fit my wiring. I would like to put my fuse panel (someday to be a circuit breaker panel I hope) somewhere accessable. For now, this looks like a tentative spot, if space allows. Note the wiring is just mocked up here; I plan to wrap it and pretty it up a bunch more once I get it all to length.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7402/16514743595_75f58c5960_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ramnUx)
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8664/16513017061_bc05c4c672_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/racwEH)

[Pearldrummer7]

Installed my AOS today. Didn't trim the plumbing to size yet because I want flexibility in case the intercooler makes me have to rotate the AOS. Pretty excited about it! It's the Crawford V1, which (unlike the V2) doesn't have coolant lines running through it (since this won't be driven in the winter).

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7380/16532002125_eabbbc48d2_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rbSQgp)
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8596/16345712319_3cec5c049c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qUq3Nc)

[Pearldrummer7]

So I put one of my ball joints in with the cotter pin hole facing the wrong way. And I can't seem to get it out. Anyone have any ideas? I had it in the vice and was rapping on it with a rubber mallet somewhat hard. I don't want to damage it.
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8602/16367843747_0409d29606_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qWntGx)


Got my tires! Putting them on this week, if work permits. Pretty excited.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7382/16553771795_23a8097b33_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rdNpCx)

[Frank818]

Oh yeah, those tires are nice! :)

[wleehendrick]

So I put one of my ball joints in with the cotter pin hole facing the wrong way. And I can't seem to get it out. Anyone have any ideas?

You may have to resort to a pickle fork, but that could damage it. I think it's a relatively inexpensive Moog part, so not the end of the world of you do.


Got my tires! Putting them on this week, if work permits. Pretty excited.

Look good.. are those Dunlop's?

[Pearldrummer7]

Oh yeah, those tires are nice! :)

Pretty stoked! I've had two sets of the regular ZII's on my WRX. Love them. These are the ZII Star Spec, so supposedly "1% faster" and longer lasting. Time will tell!

[Pearldrummer7]

You may have to resort to a pickle fork, but that could damage it. I think it's a relatively inexpensive Moog part, so not the end of the world of you do.



Look good.. are those Dunlop's?

Yes they are! Dunlop Direzza ZII's. I had the Z1 Star Specs right when I got my WRX in 2012. Then got ZII's (twice now) and have been extremely impressed, especially in the wet. Very good for a street tire, and pretty cheap IMO.

[Pearldrummer7]

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7403/16407592209_505cbd5cd7_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qZTcwR)

Once I get my arms back from Wayne she'll finally be a roller!

[mikeb75]

For your ball-joint problem, I had the same issue. Used a long 1/2" impact drive extension and a mini-sledge on the threaded stud. Needed to really shock the ball joint to get it to release. Pickle fork would be an easier/nicer way to go.

[RM1SepEx]

I used a pickle fork and wasted the boot, the ball joint was cheap

[Hindsight]

Balljoints.... I had the same problem. This removed them quickly without even having to remove the spindle bracket from the car: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

I got one at the local auto parts store. Autozone didn't have them but Advance Auto Parts did. Won't damage the boot and works fast. No fiddling.

[TouchStone]

Also found this gem of a coolant hose in Advanced Auto. It was $13 I think, and it's so long! Has some cool bend in it, too. I'm using this to reroute my coolant lines on the passenger side of the car.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7542/15795393980_f9333304de_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/q4MwjY)

Why did you route both coolant lines on the passenger side? I may want to do this as well but I'm not sure what the benefit would be.

[Pearldrummer7]

For your ball-joint problem, I had the same issue. Used a long 1/2" impact drive extension and a mini-sledge on the threaded stud. Needed to really shock the ball joint to get it to release. Pickle fork would be an easier/nicer way to go.


I used a pickle fork and wasted the boot, the ball joint was cheap


Balljoints.... I had the same problem. This removed them quickly without even having to remove the spindle bracket from the car: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

I got one at the local auto parts store. Autozone didn't have them but Advance Auto Parts did. Won't damage the boot and works fast. No fiddling.

I ended up using a pickle fork and getting it off pretty easily. They're awesome tools.


Why did you route both coolant lines on the passenger side? I may want to do this as well but I'm not sure what the benefit would be.

Weight distribution! I figure it helps offset the fact that I'm on the driver side. I figure besides me, there is steering and fuel filler neck, probably nearly offset by the extra exhaust stuff on the right. I bet left to right, with coolant run on the pass. side it's pretty close to even.

[Pearldrummer7]

AJW exhaust is mounted! What a beautiful exhaust! Huge thanks, guys. Waiting on installing the cat until I have the body mounted.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8618/16621036346_372c3caf74_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rjKa3b)

[FFRSpec72]

Looks good, I should have mine this week, I also ordered the "ultra quiet resonator", so we will see

[Scargo]

I hope you will wrap it really well. It looks nice but could potentially heat up a lot of nearby stuff.

[metalmaker12]

Looks good, I should have mine this week, I also ordered the "ultra quiet resonator", so we will see

I thought you had a jdm twinscroll setup?

[FFRSpec72]

I thought you had a jdm twinscroll setup?

No I have an EJ207v7 and the v7 is not twin scroll

[FFRSpec72]

I hope you will wrap it really well. It looks nice but could potentially heat up a lot of nearby stuff.

No much around the area, as its about 10-11" from deck lid, and just the transmission is there

[Scargo]

I have an oil cooler on the tranny of my STi track car; but then it has an internal pump... Doesn't it need love, too? I think radiant heat will affect the intercooler and most everyone seems to feel that the stock intercooler setup is marginal to unacceptable in the 818 anyway.

BTW, I have essentially three resonators on my STi. One's in the middle of the car. The two at the back of the car are supposed to be mufflers, but they are straight through 3" (everything's three inch). I cannot pass Lime Rock's 89 Db restriction without downturns on the two "mufflers". Perhaps punching out 400 WHP makes a little more noise?
89Db , not 68...

[Pearldrummer7]

Scargo- I wrapped the up pipe and headers, but not the turboback yet? Why wrap the TB? Heat to intercooler? I'm a little worried about noise. Hoping the cat helps quiet it out a little bit. If not, I might be running a loud exhaust on the street with a cat, and a muffler on the track. Kinda backwards! haha


FFR-I'm curious to see how much quieter the muffled exhaust is than the straight pipe vs. catted.

[Frank818]

That looks so mean. :)

[D Clary]

39120I wrapped mine just to keep the heat out of the engine bay. Also I had visions of brushing up against that shiny stainless when it was hot. OUch!

[FFRSpec72]

Scargo- I wrapped the up pipe and headers, but not the turboback yet? Why wrap the TB? Heat to intercooler? I'm a little worried about noise. Hoping the cat helps quiet it out a little bit. If not, I might be running a loud exhaust on the street with a cat, and a muffler on the track. Kinda backwards! haha


FFR-I'm curious to see how much quieter the muffled exhaust is than the straight pipe vs. catted.

I will be interested also, as I have a 95 db limit (most of the other tracks are 100 db) that I need to meet, my goal is to have a straight pipe and when I need it put the resonator on, so when I cut the pipe I will have the end flared out so it can slip back on and use a v-clamp to hold it on and add a tip if I need to (so I can reach end of car)

[wleehendrick]

Scargo- I wrapped the up pipe and headers, but not the turboback yet? Why wrap the TB? Heat to intercooler?


I think radiant heat will affect the intercooler and most everyone seems to feel that the stock intercooler setup is marginal to unacceptable in the 818 anyway.

I agree totally! The OEM TMIC has been shown to heat soak in the 818... and that's without a bare exhaust pipe below it. Without insulation, both radiant heat and convection (at a stop) will bake the TMIC. If you don't want to go AWIC, at least wrap the pipe and/or add a heatshield; your motor will thank you!

[Speedy G]

I'd put a stainless steel plate between the two, and put some insulation on the plate on the side of the intercooler. Convection and radiation of heat is definitely a huge problem. The alternative is to side-mount the TMIC. Ceramic coating the exhaust also helps both the intercooler and exhaust velocity which helps power.

[Scargo]

Ran across this photo this morning.http://image.superstreetonline.com/f/30265202+w640+h427+q80+re0+cr1/impp_1103_03_o%2Bsubaru_ej_series%2Bheated_piping. jpg

[Pearldrummer7]

Ran across this photo this morning.http://image.superstreetonline.com/f/30265202+w640+h427+q80+re0+cr1/impp_1103_03_o%2Bsubaru_ej_series%2Bheated_piping. jpg

Woah.

I mean, some steels will start glowing in the 850-900*F range, and EGT's can get over 1500*F...I guess this makes sense, but man is it crazy to see. Really cool pic, Scargo!

[Frank818]

What car is that from?
Totally jaw-breaking.

[Pearldrummer7]

What car is that from?
Totally jaw-breaking.

From someone on Facebook:
"Thats a pic i believe from tomei of japan testing differences between the ej20/ 25 with their header and arms turbo"

[Mechie3]

Now imagine that sitting nice and close to a fuel tank and brake lines.

[flynntuna]

Ran across this photo this morning.http://image.superstreetonline.com/f/30265202+w640+h427+q80+re0+cr1/impp_1103_03_o%2Bsubaru_ej_series%2Bheated_piping. jpg

Who's the first to add a rotisserie?

[Pearldrummer7]

Put some temporary wiring in and tried to start it last night. Had a small grounding issue at first but second try it worked great! It sounds fantastic and runs nicely off of idle. Doesn't idle nicely, but it's missing the front O2 right now. We had the fire extinguisher on retainer anyway. So excited!


https://vimeo.com/121585518?utm_source=email&utm_medium=clip-transcode_complete-finished-20120100&utm_campaign=7701&email_id=Y2xpcF90cmFuc2NvZGVkfDk3Y2MxZTQzMWU2M2EzO DY5Nzc0NjNjMGI5MjBkZGNhMzQyfDM4MTYwMDkxfDE0MjU4MDg 3NjB8NzcwMQ%3D%3D

[AZPete]

Congrats! Sounds strong!

[Hindsight]

Congrats on the first start!

[STiPWRD]

great job man

[Tamra]

whoo hoo congrats!

[Pearldrummer7]

Thanks everyone! It was a pretty exciting moment. Now I'll be in Sweden for work for around a week, so progress will slow. I'm not -too- upset :)

[Frank818]

You are a lucky builder to be there! :)

[Pearldrummer7]

https://vimeo.com/122595258


She runs now! Found a vacuum leak and now I think we're good to go. Tapping in the fitting for coolant this weekend and driving it down the driveway! So excited :)

Edit: Sorry for the swinging camera; it's awful. I threw the GoPro on the hook and excitedly ran over to the car. Too excited to remember to stop it from swinging, it seems!