Frank's 818R build

[Frank818]

Still smells fumes, though?

Any pic of your bumper?

[Pearldrummer7]

Still smells fumes, though?

Any pic of your bumper?

Very gassy smelling, but I've made progress on determining why/how to fix that. I vent the tank to the ground, not through a catch can. When I rerouted that line, it reduced fuel smell a whole lot. I think if you did a charcoal canister/catch can/etc. for the gas vent it would greatly reduce or even eliminate the gassy smell. That's a good mod for the street. Also, muffler is a must and some sort of 12V fan would be nice for the hotter days.

I'll grab a bumper pic for tonight. I keep finding pics of the good side, I guess I've been avoiding the bad side!

[Hindsight]

I built a charcoal can using PVC and so far, it has worked very well. No gas smell in the garage.

[Frank818]

I'll grab a bumper pic for tonight. I keep finding pics of the good side, I guess I've been avoiding the bad side!

Darn I always ask for the bad stuff! loll


The gas:
Oh gas! Tank gas, from the vent, yeah a charcoal canister helps a lot, I'm using my 24yo can from my VW, although I cleaned it as much as I could. No gassy smell at all. Before I fitted it, gassy smell in the garage all the time.

[Pearldrummer7]

Did a little test lap around the neighborhood before loading it on the trailer. Good thing I did...heard a bang and things stopped working in a hurry.

Went to the track on the bike and came back last night, got to work on the 818 this morning. Pulled the trans...Trans fluid was disgusting and had large metal chunks in it. Suspecting diff based on where the sound is coming from and how awful it feels to rotate the input shaft while in gear. I guess my plan is to send out the transmission to a shop or maybe go to a shop with it to see the diagnosis.

Anyone have suggestions? Besides the inevitable "get a Quaife" comments.

[Wayne Presley]

Did a little test lap around the neighborhood before loading it on the trailer. Good thing I did...heard a bang and things stopped working in a hurry.
.

Anyone have suggestions? Besides the inevitable "get a Quaife" comments.

Get a 6 speed

[Pearldrummer7]

Get a 6 speed

But they're so heavy :(

Wayne, do you run 6 speed(s) in your 818(s)?

[Wayne Presley]

Yes, they shift better, come with a LSD and are fairly unbreakable.

[Frank818]

Get a Quaife.

lol

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Might be the same problem I had.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12534-MRG-MotorSports-818S-Build&p=217356&viewfull=1#post217356

[Hindsight]

Oh no!!! Sorry to hear that frank. That's a real bummer. It's pretty easy to pull the transmission apart, if you want to see what is broken. It will be obvious.

You mainly have three options:
1. Buy another used 5-speed, maybe a later model one like 08-up, and cross your fingers it doesn't happen again
2. Get a set of PPG gears and have your transmission rebuilt with them installed
3. Get a 6-speed

Keep us posted on what you end up finding and doing.

[Zach34]

Sorry to hear of the trans problems. I'm surprised, looking at your dyno chart, that it didn't hold up. Was it old? How many miles on it?

I had Andrewtech Automotive in DC rebuild my 6-speed. It was a 2005 so I had to use the adapter from Possum Motorsports, too. All in it was surprisingly expensive, but hopefully it's an investment in making sure I don't experience what you just did.

[Sgt.Gator]

Oh no!!! Sorry to hear that frank. That's a real bummer. It's pretty easy to pull the transmission apart, if you want to see what is broken. It will be obvious.

You mainly have three options:
1. Buy another used 5-speed, maybe a later model one like 08-up, and cross your fingers it doesn't happen again
2. Get a set of PPG gears and have your transmission rebuilt with them installed
3. Get a 6-speed

Keep us posted on what you end up finding and doing.

There's a 4th option. The 5 speed with an LSD and Moore Performance BlastPlates. So far all the guys that I'm aware of using the blast plates have yet to break a 5 speed. it's worth a Google search to read about them. Maybe it's a placebo, maybe not.

[C.Plavan]

Legacy GT trans..... I never had an issue, and I was not very nice to it.

[Sgt.Gator]

Legacy GT trans..... I never had an issue, and I was not very nice to it.

+1 on the LGT tranny. That is the base to start with on your rebuild. You can get them fairly cheap at a wrecking yard or on the forums from guys who've done a 6 speed swap into their LGTs.

[Pearldrummer7]

Thanks for all the advice, all. Splitting the case tonight to see what it looks like in there. LGT trans sounds like the best bang per buck. I wasn't nice to this trans but it just was a WRX one (07, so not the weakest but also not the strongest). I think part of the solution is a behavioral change (less burnouts).

[Frank818]

Thanks for all the advice, all.

Hey, hello? Not "all", don't thank me for my stupid advice, come on. lollll


I think part of the solution is a behavioral change (less burnouts).

This would also reduce fun, but in the end if the car is dead it's the worst fun you can get anyway.
And again I think you've proven that the trans seem like a weak point for this build, at least the non-upgraded Impreza ones.
Do you have an LGT in sight already?

[Pearldrummer7]

Hey, hello? Not "all", don't thank me for my stupid advice, come on. lollll



This would also reduce fun, but in the end if the car is dead it's the worst fun you can get anyway.
And again I think you've proven that the trans seem like a weak point for this build, at least the non-upgraded Impreza ones.
Do you have an LGT in sight already?

Nope. After buying another bike (and still haven't sold the old one), I'm pretty sure my bank account doesn't support me getting another transmission yet. I think LGT is the way I'll go, the more I think about it. Hopefully it's stronger over my 07 WRX one.

[Frank818]

I hope for you it's stronger than the 07 WRX, otherwise it'll break again and put another hole in your bank account. :)

[Pearldrummer7]

So, I cracked the trans open. Found that the pinion/ring gear are destroyed. Luckily, they're fairly cheap and nothing else seems to be damaged. Now the question is, besides doing less burnouts in it...how can I avoid this happening in the future?

I would imagine that someone makes a stronger ring pinion out there, no? Also, this is the time for a new diff, eh?

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8460/29320486985_b320ab9e5c_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LEXagF)
https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8377/29320487755_4d255d3af9_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LEXauX)

[C.Plavan]

So, I cracked the trans open. Found that the pinion/ring gear are destroyed. Luckily, they're fairly cheap and nothing else seems to be damaged. Now the question is, besides doing less burnouts in it...how can I avoid this happening in the future?

I would imagine that someone makes a stronger ring pinion out there, no? Also, this is the time for a new diff, eh?

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8460/29320486985_b320ab9e5c_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LEXagF)
https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8377/29320487755_4d255d3af9_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LEXauX)

No Burnouts, change fluid more often. I'm a firm believer in Swepco 201. If it happens again, you will benefit from a transmission cooler/pump setup.

[Scargo]

And, yes, a diff. With my AWD STi, I was told that I could gain two seconds a lap (a second a minute) with racing diffs in my STi. I've yet to prove it because of engine issues, but I'll know soon. I went with OS Giken.

[Pearldrummer7]

No Burnouts, change fluid more often. I'm a firm believer in Swepco 201. If it happens again, you will benefit from a transmission cooler/pump setup.
Fluid was fairly new (2 track days on it?), and was Motul 300. I will be trying other fluids next time, I think. Thanks for the advice, Chad.


And, yes, a diff. With my AWD STi, I was told that I could gain two seconds a lap (a second a minute) with racing diffs in my STi. I've yet to prove it because of engine issues, but I'll know soon. I went with OS Giken.

I've heard a diff is good for 1-2 seconds on a full track in the 818. I believe it. I definitely have a moment of lower delivered power coming out of harder turns.

[C.Plavan]

If you only had 2 track days on the fluid- Stay away from burn-outs. Motul is good also I hear, I have never used it. I used Swepco 201 in the 818R and the 911's forever.

[Pearldrummer7]

So, not directly related to the 818, but it will become relevant. I took my WRX to the track this Friday. Had two problems- I was blowing some smoke (maybe turbo seals or head gaskets?) and I was SO BORED. The 818 has ruined me. So, the WRX is going away and a brand new pickup truck is coming in its place. This is slowing down my 818 fixing budget/timeline, but it'll be a lot easier to tow this thing around with a proper tow rig than with my early 90's, 6 cylinder truck. Can't wait to go more than 30mph up the hills on the way to the track

[Hindsight]

Nice Frank! I have been eyeing a tow vehicle as well. My VW Passat TDI is getting bought back by VW due to the Diesel scandal, and I've been researching trucks to replace it. I don't have a daily commute now so gas mileage isn't a huge concern. What kind of trucks have been you been looking at? Will you go open or closed trailer? I'd much rather have open for weight/cost but with the open-top 818, closed makes a lot more sense.

[Mechie3]

The first time I drove an F500 I almost instantly lost all desire to autocross a full sized/non full race car again. It actually had the benefit of I lost interest in my WRX (now my 818 donor) and my street cars are no longer super uncomfortable racers with $16k in mods. Put all that money into my 818 instead.

[Pearldrummer7]

Nice Frank! I have been eyeing a tow vehicle as well. My VW Passat TDI is getting bought back by VW due to the Diesel scandal, and I've been researching trucks to replace it. I don't have a daily commute now so gas mileage isn't a huge concern. What kind of trucks have been you been looking at? Will you go open or closed trailer? I'd much rather have open for weight/cost but with the open-top 818, closed makes a lot more sense.

I have an open deck trailer. 3 reasons I want to upgrade. First and foremost, loading/unloading is AWFUL on my trailer. Far and away the worst part of my tow rig, including doing 30 (sometimes less) up hills in a 55 mph zone. Second, sleeping in an enclosed would be nicer than sleeping in the back of the pickup like I do now(though it's a lot nicer than a tent). Third, being able to lock up the car/tools would be nice.

I'm getting a 2016 F-150 with a V8, a 3.73 rear, and some creature comforts. Combo of my favorite current truck and work discount (we supply them with metal).


The first time I drove an F500 I almost instantly lost all desire to autocross a full sized/non full race car again. It actually had the benefit of I lost interest in my WRX (now my 818 donor) and my street cars are no longer super uncomfortable racers with $16k in mods. Put all that money into my 818 instead.

Yup, that happened to me the second I went back to a regular car after driving the 818. Best part is that the mods for the 818 are cheaper/as cheap as the WRX, and they make me way happier. So, boring street "car" (truck) and fun race car (and race bike). 100% understand why Formula drivers have Camrys and stuff.

[Pearldrummer7]

Started my install of the side scoops. They look awesome, Kurk!

Ew, gross stains on the old FFR mesh:
https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8539/28859223034_60777b9271_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/KYc4yW)

https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8479/29483686525_e432e5ce3a_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LVnANR)
https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8029/29403687551_e95a71969a_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LNizUc)

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8611/29375038692_32c46d666a_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LKLKAm)
https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7744/29375038952_3844f5b396_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LKLKEQ)

Not bad progress for an hour or two. Gonna make brackets at work this week, I hope.

Not cutting out the driver side until I choose and obtain a core for an oil cooler. The passenger side core is for an AWIC, of course.

[Hindsight]

Cool, I have been looking at F150s as well. I have never bought or owned a truck, and I am still having a hard time understanding why a reasonably featured pickup truck costs $40,000 to $60,000. It's nuts! You can get a really nice Mercedes, Audi, or BMW for that kind of money!! Of course, those won't tow a trailer.....

Any reason you are going with a V8 instead of an ecoboost? If I went new, I'd probably get the ecoboost, but if I go used, will probably go V8 instead.

[Zach34]

Just to throw some thought about engine choice out there: I'm towing one of FFR's new 24' trailers with, of all things, an F150 Raptor. The Raptor does great IF, and ONLY IF, you get a weight distribution hitch. The trailer weighs about 4k empty. The Raptor with the tow package (10k Class 4 hitch, trailer brake controller, tow/haul mode, trans cooler) is basically the same in powertrain and brakes as an F250 with the same engine (6.2L V8). The Raptor's soft off-road suspension is the only drawback and is why the weight distribution hitch is necessary. I think it's worth it to spend some bucks on a good tow vehicle. You'll spend some hours in it, and it's nice to be comfortable and not have to worry about being overloaded. In the Ford line, a well-equipped F250 with pretty much any of their engine options is plenty to tow this car in an enclosed trailer. Can't speak to the Ecoboost, but the specs on it suggest it should work fine.

[Frank818]

Man you are a true racer, you wreck every thing you drive. :) Just don't wreck those 2 pick-ups and get that 818 fixed! :) Completely fixed for a better life!

I can't believe how small your FFR side openings were. Really, that is so tiny.

[Kurk818]

Glad you like the fitment.

I will be doing something similar to your side mount IC.

[jcpresto]

Hindsight,

What are you wanting to pull? My Audi Q7 pulls 7k lbs without an issue.

[Canadian818]

+1 for an ecoboost, I'm very happy with mine.

[Sgt.Gator]

You are starting the progression!
Ratty used open trailer pulled by SUV or old pickup. > Nicer open trailer pulled by nicer /heavy duty SUV or light duty pickup. (F150) > Enclosed trailer about 18-20-22ft>After a year of jamming too much stuff in too small a trailer...trailer envy hits and you buy a 26' tag or even a 30+' fifth wheel. Realize you need more powerful pickup, buy a Ram 3500 /Ford 350/Chevy 3500 Turbo Diesel with 800ft lbs of TQ. Finally happiness!
You might as well save a bunch of $$$ and go straight to the end game.

[Pearldrummer7]

Cool, I have been looking at F150s as well. I have never bought or owned a truck, and I am still having a hard time understanding why a reasonably featured pickup truck costs $40,000 to $60,000. It's nuts! You can get a really nice Mercedes, Audi, or BMW for that kind of money!! Of course, those won't tow a trailer.....

Any reason you are going with a V8 instead of an ecoboost? If I went new, I'd probably get the ecoboost, but if I go used, will probably go V8 instead.

Yes, but those can't tow ;) You do get a lot of vehicle with a $40K truck right now, in all honesty (the comfort is amazing, the power, etc.) but it still pains me to spend more on my truck than my 818. V8 for 3 reasons:
-reliability: it's a very tried and true engine and I have friends at Borg Warner who say their cam phasors for the 3.5Ecoboost are prone to failure.
-V8 rumble (self explanatory)
-I found the almost-exact truck I want in-transit to a dealer that I'm grabbing instead of ordering one, and it has a V8. If I ordered one, it'd be close.


Just to throw some thought about engine choice out there: I'm towing one of FFR's new 24' trailers with, of all things, an F150 Raptor. The Raptor does great IF, and ONLY IF, you get a weight distribution hitch. The trailer weighs about 4k empty. The Raptor with the tow package (10k Class 4 hitch, trailer brake controller, tow/haul mode, trans cooler) is basically the same in powertrain and brakes as an F250 with the same engine (6.2L V8). The Raptor's soft off-road suspension is the only drawback and is why the weight distribution hitch is necessary. I think it's worth it to spend some bucks on a good tow vehicle. You'll spend some hours in it, and it's nice to be comfortable and not have to worry about being overloaded. In the Ford line, a well-equipped F250 with pretty much any of their engine options is plenty to tow this car in an enclosed trailer. Can't speak to the Ecoboost, but the specs on it suggest it should work fine.

I'm sure mine will also be fine towing, as it's rated for 11K and change and if my current truck is any example, you can always tow more than you are rated for ;) Towing with a Raptor is badass, though.


Man you are a true racer, you wreck every thing you drive. :) Just don't wreck those 2 pick-ups and get that 818 fixed! :) Completely fixed for a better life!

I can't believe how small your FFR side openings were. Really, that is so tiny.
So tiny! They didn't really have much to cool I guess, not directly anyway. And yes, recently it's been EVERYTHING. Gonna try not to break my pickup trucks.


Glad you like the fitment.

I will be doing something similar to your side mount IC.

I think this is the "best" spot for an IC if it can work heat-wise. Drag is more desirable than lift from a top scoop


Hindsight,

What are you wanting to pull? My Audi Q7 pulls 7k lbs without an issue.

I'm sure any of the large SUVs can tow nicely, and do double-duty for family vehicles if you want them. Since it's just me, truck is where it's at :)


You are starting the progression!
Ratty used open trailer pulled by SUV or old pickup. > Nicer open trailer pulled by nicer /heavy duty SUV or light duty pickup. (F150) > Enclosed trailer about 18-20-22ft>After a year of jamming too much stuff in too small a trailer...trailer envy hits and you buy a 26' tag or even a 30+' fifth wheel. Realize you need more powerful pickup, buy a Ram 3500 /Ford 350/Chevy 3500 Turbo Diesel with 800ft lbs of TQ. Finally happiness!
You might as well save a bunch of $$$ and go straight to the end game.
I'm skipping to the end trailer wise. 26' is my minimum trailer size. I think a nice 26' can be 3k-4k pounds with a few cabinets and stuff in it. That, my 818, a bunch of tools, easily still under 11K and change tow rating, not to mention I have a bed to put some tools and such in (and motorcycles).

I did 15K miles in my '93 F-150 with no AC, a bench seat, enough power to slow me down to 30mph going up hills, and no creature comforts (AM/FM radio leaves a lot to be desired). I am so excited to have an upgrade here.

[tmoretta]

Do you have more info about the components of your side mounted AWIC? I like the way it does away with need to mount anything up front. What heat exchanger are you using after turbo/on top of engine?

[Hindsight]

Good point about the reliability of the V8. The ecoboost gets better mileage but the reliability factor needs to be considered as well and the V8 has been around forever and has been very refined.

[Pearldrummer7]

Do you have more info about the components of your side mounted AWIC? I like the way it does away with need to mount anything up front. What heat exchanger are you using after turbo/on top of engine?

I do have plans! I will take pics of my proposed solution and upload them next time I get some time in the garage :)


Good point about the reliability of the V8. The ecoboost gets better mileage but the reliability factor needs to be considered as well and the V8 has been around forever and has been very refined.

plus the V8 rumble! Same engine as the Boss 302 except a camshaft. After my Subaru's reliability compared to my Ford's, I'm done taking risks on the street-going vehicle

[C.Plavan]

I have a 2013 F150 Ecoboost Lariat 2x4. I'm not sure if I'll get the Ecoboost 3.5L in the future, I may go V8. Towing my trailer I get ~8 MPG..... ~7500 pounds of weight. The Ecoboost MPG is good at the beginning, now with 80K miles it sucks frankly. I'm lucky to get 17mpg highway unloaded......

Towing with a Raptor limits the capacity due to the suspension. My F150 has 11,000 towing capacity.
The 2011+ Raptor super crew has a towing capacity of 8,000 pounds. The 2011+ Raptor super cab has a towing capacity of 6,000 pounds.

[longislandwrx]

Did you look at the Ram eco diesel? 8000lbs towing and they sell for pretty reasonable prices out here.

[mikeb75]

sooooo, I'm guessing the 2017 F150 3.5 ecoboost with 10 speed transmission is out of the question :)
(Because more has to be better)

[Frank818]

+10 V8 rumble

[Sgt.Gator]

I towed an enclosed trailer with a Ram 1500 5.7L V8 Hemi, 400 HP/400TQ for a couple of years. It was ok. Now I have a Ram 3500 Cummins Turbo Diesel. 800 Lbft TQ. The Cummins is awesome. Super Reliable. Once you tow with a heavy frame pickup and a monster 6 cyl Cummins turbo diesel you'll never go back.

[Scargo]

You guys are giving me truck envy. In the New England area I struggle on a few steep spots (down to 45mph) but I normally get by fine with my 2008 Dodge Dakota V6, with roll-up windows, when I tow my 3K lb. STi on a 13' tandem-axle Featherlite. I too looked at new trucks and SMH! Also, it was a slippery slope of money when it came to power and accessories for a new truck. I've managed for years backing up under my trailer tongue without a computerized camera. I'd rather put the money into the go-fast stuff. I could not justify it when I have little use for one for anything else.

[Pearldrummer7]

So, I bought a Qauife LSD and a new ring/pinion (heat treated this time!) and some bearings for the trans. Gonna have it rebuilt by my tuner (Taylor at Moon Performance) and will hopefully be able to do a few street miles to test it this year before the wintery hell hits. Pretty excited for the LSD!

[Frank818]

Cool, this is been taken care of now. You cannot rebuild it yourself? I wouldn't either on mine, I'm not experienced enough on this component.

Next step: fixing the body. :D

[Pearldrummer7]

Cool, this is been taken care of now. You cannot rebuild it yourself? I wouldn't either on mine, I'm not experienced enough on this component.

Next step: fixing the body. :D

high on my to do list :)

[Hindsight]

Nice, I love my Quaife. Puts the power down very nicely on turn exits. How much does a heat treated R&P run? Any torque strength estimates on it?

[Pearldrummer7]

Nice, I love my Quaife. Puts the power down very nicely on turn exits. How much does a heat treated R&P run? Any torque strength estimates on it?

No torque estimates. It was $350 for a new R&P(OEM) and $425 for a heat treated set. I figure that it should make them last quite a bit longer and hopefully be able to withstand the power. Also, less burnouts. A lot less burnouts.
Also-
bearings for just the output shaft were about $250, plus the labor to swap diffs, replace bearings/ring/pinion, reseal everything.

[Pearldrummer7]

Totally off-topic:


I got cold feet on the truck I ordered. I really want to wait and get an 8' bed, not settle for a 6.5'. By the time one would get here it'd be winter and I'm trying not to let the new truck see salt. So, I took the WRX to the dealership, and long story short my blown engine is being replaced under warranty.

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8006/29839995746_8b315bde58_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/MsRM8h)
https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8097/29581249040_530f23cfac_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/M4ZCKb)
Clutch is totally roasted
https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5054/29248347273_a79b5847b4_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LyzqDx)
https://c3.staticflickr.com/6/5789/29581250250_dbd91a005a_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/M4ZD73)


new and shiny:
https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8424/29839995196_cd782e28f8_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/MsRLXN)

[Frank818]

What the hell did you do to the clutch? :)

How can the dealer let you take pix of the engine dismantled?

[Hindsight]

Wow, congrats on the warranty coverage! That's huge.

[Pearldrummer7]

What the hell did you do to the clutch? :)

How can the dealer let you take pix of the engine dismantled?
I have some friends at the dealership


Wow, congrats on the warranty coverage! That's huge.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8084/29396117984_e94206d4cf_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LMCMJq)

Wouldn't guess she has nearly 60K miles on it :)

My diff just arrived! Time to schedule an appointment with the guys to get her installed

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8353/29396117784_062f3e2d22_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LMCMEY)

I also got the opportunity to coach at the track the other weekend. I drove some peoples' cars. oh MAN is that GTR fast and EASY to drive.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8266/30024065985_44497504a1_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/MK8bN6)
https://c4.staticflickr.com/6/5184/29397405323_ce02671e06_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LMKopV)

[Frank818]

Your so called GTR is a Quaiffe on the 2nd picture. Are you trying to lie to us? lolll

[Pearldrummer7]

Your so called GTR is a Quaiffe on the 2nd picture. Are you trying to lie to us? lolll

Good find! I meant it to be an actual GTR lol

[Frank818]

Monster green GTR, never seen that before. Pretty ecstatic! That's a word, right?

Now, the question we are all eager to ask and for which we WANT an answer: is the green monster faster than your R? Does it grip better? Does it brake better? Does it launch better? I'll fill up that last one: oh damn F yeah it does.

[Pearldrummer7]

Monster green GTR, never seen that before. Pretty ecstatic! That's a word, right?

Now, the question we are all eager to ask and for which we WANT an answer: is the green monster faster than your R? Does it grip better? Does it brake better? Does it launch better? I'll fill up that last one: oh damn F yeah it does.

Launch: LOL GTR
Brake: 818R
Grip: debatable. A lot easier to find the limits of grip and super super forgiving when you surpass them on the GTR. Electronics save your *** every time.
Ease of driving: GTR
Faster: not sure, NYST track record is a 1:33.95 in a GTR black edition with race tires. I can run a very consistent 1:38 with zero aero, balding street tires, autozone brakes, an open diff, and a passenger. I think the rest of the time is there to take the record and prove the lightweight 818 can take on Godzilla. Really the stiffest competition that appears at that track.

[Frank818]

What is your definition of "ease of driving"?

Then if you think you can take on the record what are you waiting for? Oh yeah, that gearbox and bumper, but after that, you will, right?

[Pearldrummer7]

What is your definition of "ease of driving"?

Then if you think you can take on the record what are you waiting for? Oh yeah, that gearbox and bumper, but after that, you will, right?

Ease of driving...it's like playing Forza on easy mode. There are assists everywhere. Can't get it too loose or it'll fix it, can't overcook the brakes, can't steer so hard you push...it just fixes any mistake you make with electronics. The 818 obviously does none of that. Which is great because it's simple, lighter, and makes you a better driver. It's worse because it's harder to drive haha

I'm getting an LSD, slicks, some aero, and better brakes. Oh! And a better shifter. And of course replacing/repairing the body work. Then I should be able to take the record at that (mostly bike) track without too much difficulty, I think

[Frank818]

Ha I see, I prefer the hard way then. :) I build my 818 as a toy and I want it to be super hard to drive (maybe that's why my shift pattern is reversed loll), the most raw possible. One small mistake and "you" (well, "I") have to fix it, unless anything mechanical is forgiven enough, like a proper balanced weight, suspension, aero and alignment.

What aero pieces are you targeting?
Don't forget to get a bigger fuel tank too!!!!!! looooolllllllllllllll Running gag.

That'd be so cool to have your name (same as mine!) on the TOP1 record of all times!

[Pearldrummer7]

Ha I see, I prefer the hard way then. :) I build my 818 as a toy and I want it to be super hard to drive (maybe that's why my shift pattern is reversed loll), the most raw possible. One small mistake and "you" (well, "I") have to fix it, unless anything mechanical is forgiven enough, like a proper balanced weight, suspension, aero and alignment.

What aero pieces are you targeting?
Don't forget to get a bigger fuel tank too!!!!!! looooolllllllllllllll Running gag.

That'd be so cool to have your name (same as mine!) on the TOP1 record of all times!

I too like it better, and I like learning while optimizing it.

Fuel gauge is definitely an important mod ;)

It would be so cool. I like some competition so this is just fueling my fire!

[Frank818]

Fuel gauge, sorry yeah, easier than a bigger tank.

And about your aero, whatcha got in mind?

[Pearldrummer7]

Fuel gauge, sorry yeah, easier than a bigger tank.

And about your aero, whatcha got in mind?

Big wing and splitter :) maybe diffuser too. I have the canards already

[Frank818]

Yeah splitter and big wing, you should gain with that. Plz add the diffuser too. Car will look twice as kick ***! :) You're actually going the Chad way, you'll be missing front fender louvers, rear bottom bumper anti-parachute vents and large door vent inserts. Yeah I know, bank account, bank account...

[Pearldrummer7]

Yeah splitter and big wing, you should gain with that. Plz add the diffuser too. Car will look twice as kick ***! :) You're actually going the Chad way, you'll be missing front fender louvers, rear bottom bumper anti-parachute vents and large door vent inserts. Yeah I know, bank account, bank account...

Ah, I have the vent inserts....cool stuff coming that way whenever I get time to go in the machine shop at work. I already have the CP anti-parachute vents. Notice how I have the cheap parts already, and not the pricey ones ;)

[Frank818]

Frank, your new truck is great, check out what you did at 47sec!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyUK4MHjP8g

[Pearldrummer7]

So, I'm sad to post since I have had 818 posts in my thread for a while but eventually I have to keep working on the car, I suppose!

First and foremost, I took a trip to Montreal (with my friend frank...no joke!) and met my evil Canadian twin, Frank! Bought an extra front end from him, and saw how amazingly super clean his build was!

https://c8.staticflickr.com/6/5448/30565681455_e33a9ff578_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/NyZ7cR)


I also chopped up my upper front A-arm pieces.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5810/29931988833_dba53b88e7_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/MAZgsZ)
https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5769/29934349424_f5cfaf8947_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/MBcnbQ)

The threads now just bottom out on the slightly shorter black adjustment pieces, giving me more caster/camber than before (I was already bottomed out on the longer ones)
https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8647/29931987863_f595e03d54_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/MAZgbg)

How much did you take off, Frank?
I cut the black aluminum pieces at the end of the hex section on the OD

I took off 3/8" on the solid end of the smaller piece, ~1/4" on the "split" end of the smaller arm, nothing off of the non-welded longer arm, and needed to remove ~0.70" off of the welded part of the long arm.

[Canadian818]

How much caster/camber are you trying to achieve? I really can't wrap my head around why some people need to cut these down and others don't. Hard to believe the chassis are that different.

[Pearldrummer7]

How much caster/camber are you trying to achieve? I really can't wrap my head around why some people need to cut these down and others don't. Hard to believe the chassis are that different.

The absolute max I could get out of the car was 3.4* caster with -0.5* camber before I was fully bottomed out. This is with aluminum STI control arms that have a 3.75mm spacer on them and the flipped bracket. I don't know why I can't get more but I'd like 4.0* caster and -2.5 camber or so. I had to take away from one to get the other, though when I was bottomed out.

[Frank818]

Well this w-e I'm going your place to buy your cutting machine, I need that. :)

Plz let us know once you get numbers off of your newly perfectly cut a-arms.

[Canadian818]

The absolute max I could get out of the car was 3.4* caster with -0.5* camber before I was fully bottomed out. This is with aluminum STI control arms that have a 3.75mm spacer on them and the flipped bracket. I don't know why I can't get more but I'd like 4.0* caster and -2.5 camber or so. I had to take away from one to get the other, though when I was bottomed out.

Do you have any pics of your upper A arms when they were at 3.4*/-0.5*? I'm just curious about all this. I was able to get 6* caster and -1.5* camber without cutting, and my long arm still has threads left exposed. Maybe ffr has had a verity of different sizes come through, perhaps the manufacturers QC is lacking.

[Pearldrummer7]

My arms all had threads exposed, they were just bottomed out in the heim joint. I don't have a pic of it in that alignment, but my threads were much too long to fully thread into the joints on the long arm

Frank- borrowing machines at work to do this!

[FFRSpec72]

Do you have any pics of your upper A arms when they were at 3.4*/-0.5*? I'm just curious about all this. I was able to get 6* caster and -1.5* camber without cutting, and my long arm still has threads left exposed. Maybe ffr has had a verity of different sizes come through, perhaps the manufacturers QC is lacking.

To get 6 degrees caster you needsome modification, I agree on the 1.5 camber w/o modification

[Canadian818]

To get 6 degrees caster you needsome modification, I agree on the 1.5 camber w/o modification

I didn't, which is what's baffling me. And some, like hindsight, have had to resort to more drastic modifications to achieve results that others got easily.

[C.Plavan]

Each chassis is different. It just means they are not all straight.

[Pearldrummer7]

Each chassis is different. It just means they are not all straight.

I believe during the alignment (I can't quite remember exactly how much) one side was able to go far past that, and one wasn't. I'd rather have them both too low than different side-to-side. I think it's a lack of frame straightness, like Chad said.


I didn't, which is what's baffling me. And some, like hindsight, have had to resort to more drastic modifications to achieve results that others got easily.


To get 6 degrees caster you needsome modification, I agree on the 1.5 camber w/o modification

I could've had a little more camber if I traded some caster, IIRC, however it wouldn't have been nearly what I wanted either way. Here's to hoping this alignment works out better for me.

[Pearldrummer7]

So I played with the car a bit this weekend, and found my rear driver wheel bearing to be sloppy again. For recollection: that wheel bearing catastrophically failed on my first track day of the year this year. I replaced the entire hub since the race was chewed up.

Now, this was just a random hub with a "fairly new bearing" in it. My first question to you fine folks is this:

Is there any reason or way for premature wheel bearing failures on the same corner with different hubs?

My second question is:

Can I upgrade to the newer cartridge style bearings with my current axles and suspension pieces? What needs to change if not?

[Frank818]

Is the bearing failing always the one opposite of the corners? I mean, if your track is a clockwise track is the bearing the left one?

[Pearldrummer7]

Hm, yes. The two failures I've had are on the right side, and the track is counter-clockwise. Is that common? Fronts seem totally fine so far.

[Frank818]

Sorry unable to answer the question but it's still odd that it fails always on the same side.

Now, checking on the new bumper? :)

[Pearldrummer7]

Did some more shifter mockup recently... ran into a little problem that I'd love to run by you guys!

This bolt keeps loosening/tightening whenever I rotate that. I have a brass washer between the aluminum pieces, but I can't seem to get it right. Is the right solution a longer bolt so I can put a nut on the other side of it? The bolt is a shoulder bolt that threads into the larger aluminum piece.
https://c5.staticflickr.com/1/365/31875992316_f1a3bb8549_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/QyLMYq)

Is buying a bearing (like this one (https://www.mcmaster.com/#60355k701/=15ngjhq)) the best bet?

[Hindsight]

Hey Frank, looking good!

I used a nut (did not thread the base). I used a long bolt that goes all the way through the bellcrank and the base, then put a lock-nut on the other side. I used three brass washers, one under the head of the bolt, one between the bellcrank and the base plate, and one under the nut. Snug the nut JUST tight enough to take up any play. I had some grease on the threads of my bolt and even with the lock nut, it was loosening up over time but after putting a new lock nut on and ensuring there was no grease on the bolt, it's held tight for over 1,000 miles and lots of shifting.

If you want to get REALLY fancy, you will do what Craig did and drill a bigger hole for an actual roller bearing to be pressed into the base piece. One day I might do that, but the setup I have shifts pretty darn smooth as is.... no complaints.

[fastzrex]

Have built other 'lever' assemblies and have had the same problem. My cure was to install brass bushings in the 'lever', cut to the right length so the lever may move freely when the bolt is tight. Add LockTite to the bolt. I have had luck finding bushings at Ace Hardware; if not, an Internet search will find a variety.

~ Mark


Did some more shifter mockup recently... ran into a little problem that I'd love to run by you guys!

This bolt keeps loosening/tightening whenever I rotate that. I have a brass washer between the aluminum pieces, but I can't seem to get it right. Is the right solution a longer bolt so I can put a nut on the other side of it? The bolt is a shoulder bolt that threads into the larger aluminum piece.
https://c5.staticflickr.com/1/365/31875992316_f1a3bb8549_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/QyLMYq)

Is buying a bearing (like this one (https://www.mcmaster.com/#60355k701/=15ngjhq)) the best bet?

[C.Plavan]

I'm surprised you are having so many wheel bearing issues. I replaced mine with new OEM units when I built my car, raced the heck out of it, and never had an issue with them.

[Scargo]

Ideally, you should use a flanged bearing. Perhaps this one? (https://www.mcmaster.com/#57155k338/=15ngz9z) Even bigger would be better so you could get something like a 3/8" thread into the aluminum.
If not you should use a shouldered bushing (https://www.mcmaster.com/#6338k312/=15nh3f4) and would want a steel washer under the cap screw head (as a bearing/wear surface).

As is, can you thin or spot-face the lever so you can fully tighten the cap screw (along with using an anaerobic adhesive, AKA Locktite) and still have the lever free to move? Or get the next longer cap screw.
While I'm making suggestions, I like using a clevis end (double shear) rather than a ball-joint linkage like most are doing. Or, use a Steel Ball Joint Rod End with a double-shear lever end. (https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/1237/60645K321)

I worry about the eventual loosening and wallowing out of threads with the ball screwed into the side of an aluminum lever, and especially when 1/4" threaded studs are used.
62297

[RetroRacing]

Locktite a stud in, use a nyloc nut on the outside with nylon washers between each piece

[DanielsDM]

Or use a shoulder screw. www.mcmaster.com/#91259a624/=15niu64
Thread the base and drill the arm to match the shoulder diameter. Choose a shoulder length long enough so the screw can be fully tightened and still have a little free play axially. For better longevity use a bushing in the arm.

[RetroRacing]

I love those, but they can still turn unless you drill hole through the head and safety wire it. Don't forget to anti seize whatever you use, the alum will gall onto the bolt otherwise after continued use.

I like personally like the bearing idea, there are a ton of them to choose from and the feel would be perfect.

Because we used an RSX race shifter, we had some reversing of action to do, but the shifting is perfect! No deflection at all, and only used 3/16" material.
6230262303

[Pearldrummer7]

Thanks for all the replies, everyone!

Retro-- that is an awesome shifter. Cool bell crank, too!

Daniels-- I am using a shoulder bolt, exactly what you have there. It doesn't ride perfectly on the shoulder, and slightly backs out or tightens the bolt.

Glyn-- I would need a longer shoulder screw, which isn't a big deal of course. Flanged bearing is a cool idea that I did not think of. If the straight bearing I ordered doesn't work, that'll be what I do. I imagine(hope) the bearing will work well

I ordered a small bearing (1/4" ID and I think 5/8" OD) to insert in there, like Craig uses in his, but I might try what you guys suggested before it gets here and use a long bolt with an unthreaded section on it with a lock washer. I assume just making a 5/8" hole and using LocTite will keep this bearing in place in the aluminum arm?



Chad- believe me, I know. I think one was due to the axle nut not being tight enough (at least I have to guess that's why it failed so quickly), and when I replaced that hub, I never did a new bearing, just slapped the hub on and went.

[DanielsDM]

I see now the screw does have a larger shorter head of a shoulder screw (compared to a cap screw). From your description I thought you were using a bolt with an unthreaded shoulder which is the same diameter as the thread (some people refer to those as shoulder bolts). Anyway, can you fully tighten the shoulder screw and still have the arm turn freely?

[Pearldrummer7]

I see now the screw does have a larger shorter head of a shoulder screw (compared to a cap screw). From your description I thought you were using a bolt with an unthreaded shoulder which is the same diameter as the thread (some people refer to those as shoulder bolts). Anyway, can you fully tighten the shoulder screw and still have the arm turn freely?

Nope, that's my problem in essence, I guess. If I tighten the screw enough where it won't slop around left to right, it won't rotate nicely

[DanielsDM]

Then you need to increase the depth of the counterbore under the head of the screw until the arm rotates freely when the screw is tight. There will be a little of side to side free play depending on how precisely you clearance it. You can add a wave spring to take up the free play. www.mcmaster.com/#90134a031/=15nycaf

[STiPWRD]

Here's what I did for my linkage:

6232062321

Two Rulon J sleeve bushings (McMaster P/N: 6377K107) around a bronze sleeve (McMaster P/N: 6381K428) on a 5/16-18 socket head cap screw. Then just drill a 1/2" hole in the bell crank so it can rotate about the bushings. Also, make sure the bell crank thickness is thin enough (mine was 1/2" thick) to not bind between the bushings when the SHCS is tightened (the bronze sleeve acts as a hard stop).

A roller ball bearing is also a great way to go.

[RetroRacing]

I love that set up STiPWRD, well thought out. In racing, ive always tried to stay away from single shear points when ever possible, hence our use of two thinner pieces rather than one thick piece, but it probably doesn't matter in this case.

[DanielsDM]

Looks like a nice setup STiPWRD. Those parts look beautiful.

[STiPWRD]

Thanks guys, credit for the original linkage design goes to Matteo92065. I just redrew his drawings and modified a few things (like the bushing pivot area). Retro, I agree about the double shear and if I had to re-do the linkage, I'd incorporate that. I was trying to keep the parts really simple so they could be made from 1/2" aluminum. So far, it seems to work very well.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I'm embarrassed by the looks of mine. But I do like going into the side of the transmission.
Instead of adding a bracket, I used on of the transmission through hole as my pivot point.
Bob
62322

[Pearldrummer7]

Here's what I did for my linkage:

6232062321

Two Rulon J sleeve bushings (McMaster P/N: 6377K107) around a bronze sleeve (McMaster P/N: 6381K428) on a 5/16-18 socket head cap screw. Then just drill a 1/2" hole in the bell crank so it can rotate about the bushings. Also, make sure the bell crank thickness is thin enough (mine was 1/2" thick) to not bind between the bushings when the SHCS is tightened (the bronze sleeve acts as a hard stop).

A roller ball bearing is also a great way to go.

holy CRAP that is pretty. Did you machine that by hand??? That looks like what Hindsight did, to me. That idea is probably easier to install than a roller bearing like I'm going to try



I'm embarrassed by the looks of mine. But I do like going into the side of the transmission.
Instead of adding a bracket, I used on of the transmission through hole as my pivot point.
Bob
62322

Bob, that's a great idea. How do you like how it feels?

[Mitch Wright]

I have had the opportunity to drive Bob and Michaels car, IMO the shifter feels and works great.

[STiPWRD]

holy CRAP that is pretty. Did you machine that by hand??? That looks like what Hindsight did, to me. That idea is probably easier to install than a roller bearing like I'm going to try
Thanks, I ended up finding a local machine shop that gave me a really good rate to machine the parts so I went with that, but my back-up plan was to make them by hand. They're simple enough that you could probably get 90% of the look and functionality of the machined parts. Another reason I had them machined was that I cut out the back of my rear bumper for my dual exhaust so that area will get lots of visibility. If I had waited another year, I would've just gotten Craig's linkage since it was slightly cheaper.

[Hindsight]

I actually didn't machine mine. Cut the alum with a table saw, and for the inside edges of the bellcrank I cut it with a cordless jigsaw. I used a belt sander to clean up edges, then used sandpaper followed by scotchbright pad to get the smooth machined look. Can't take credit for the idea though... it came from DMC.

[Frank818]

Sorry to jump aside, but... where the hell is your bumper? :)

[Pearldrummer7]

Thanks, I ended up finding a local machine shop that gave me a really good rate to machine the parts so I went with that, but my back-up plan was to make them by hand. They're simple enough that you could probably get 90% of the look and functionality of the machined parts. Another reason I had them machined was that I cut out the back of my rear bumper for my dual exhaust so that area will get lots of visibility. If I had waited another year, I would've just gotten Craig's linkage since it was slightly cheaper.
Craig's is the backup plan for me, but this way is free (and fun!), albeit MUCH longer to do


I actually didn't machine mine. Cut the alum with a table saw, and for the inside edges of the bellcrank I cut it with a cordless jigsaw. I used a belt sander to clean up edges, then used sandpaper followed by scotchbright pad to get the smooth machined look. Can't take credit for the idea though... it came from DMC.
DMC? I know you didn't "machine" it, but you hand made it. Very impressive work for not using a mill!


I have had the opportunity to drive Bob and Michaels car, IMO the shifter feels and works great.
That's inspiring! I hate the stock shifter's feel. Worse than my '93 F 150's.


Sorry to jump aside, but... where the hell is your bumper? :)

haha, Frank, it's across the garage, out of my way :)

[Pearldrummer7]

Just found this pic from earlier this year in my car, turn 7 at NYST. I -knew- I got air there! Without a passenger I bet it's even better (plus I push harder)!

https://c4.staticflickr.com/1/344/32105955035_e907764ecf_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/QV6pST)

[Hindsight]

Nice shot! At that angke, it looks like your passenger is surrendering.

[Pearldrummer7]

I forgot to post these! Bearing = gooooooooooood. SO smooth.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/319/32129803616_6e0529f13f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/QXcDej)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/296/31356591803_ec354c6cdb_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/PLSJia)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/433/32018378592_223b98023c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/QMmysd)


Also, my trans is finally done! Big bill, but it has a Quaife LSD now, new bearings all around, a new shaft, and is nicely sealed.

[Pearldrummer7]

SO! Big reason why race car progress has slowed and why it will continue to be slow- I am moving! Asheville, NC, here I come!

I'm going to be New Belgium Brewing's new process automation engineer, and I couldn't be happier about it. That said, it's REALLY slowing race car progress. But it'll have good long term benefits in that regard- really long track season!

[Hindsight]

Frank HUGE congrats on the job!!!! I have never been to Asheville but I hear it is incredibly beautiful and an amazing place to live. Make sure you get a place with a spare bedroom so I can come up there and stay whenever I want lol.

From Asheville:
VIR is only 3.5 hours drive
Atlanta Motorsports Park is 3 hours drive
Road Atlanta is 2.5 hours
I'm sure there are many more but these are the tracks I either race at or will be racing at sop hopefully we will get the chance to race together at some point.

[Frank818]

That thing looks awesome!

Why a small section is ground off?

Speaking of bearings, did you fix your wheel bearing issue?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Frank HUGE congrats on the job!!!! I have never been to Asheville but I hear it is incredibly beautiful and an amazing place to live. Make sure you get a place with a spare bedroom so I can come up there and stay whenever I want lol.

From Asheville:
VIR is only 3.5 hours drive
Atlanta Motorsports Park is 3 hours drive
Road Atlanta is 2.5 hours
I'm sure there are many more but these are the tracks I either race at or will be racing at sop hopefully we will get the chance to race together at some point.

Congrats Frank,
Don't forget about "The Snake" about 1.5 hours away. I drive through Ashville a couple times a year. I did a project there for Schwitzer Turbo Chargers (BorgWarner) back in the 80's. Nice town with very friendly people.
Bob

http://www.421thesnake.com/

http://www.thesnake421.com/

http://www.motorcycleroads.com/75/705/Tennessee/The-Snake---Hwy-421--34.html#sthash.YU1zVg2p.dpbs

[Scargo]

And Tail of the Dragon not far away!

[Mitch Wright]

Congratulations Frank, Asheville is beautiful and a short trip to visit NCM Motorsports Park.

[Rob T]

Great news on the job. I am a few years out from living in Woodruff, SC, when I retire from my job in CA. Woodruff is near Greenville/Spartanburg. I was hoping to spend time at Carolina Motorsports park, but sounds like we'll all be just a few hours from each other and can arrange some outings....

[Frank818]

And Tail of the Dragon not far away!

Such a very nice place!! Too bad I had to ride 2/3 of it under rain. :(

[Pearldrummer7]

Not a super exciting update, but it's proof that I'm still alive! I've hit a few tracks via 2-wheels. Sold the truck, trailer, and WRX for.....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3818/32882075234_cd3e746482_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/S6FenC)

My new truck! 2017 F-150, V8, 3.55 locking rear. Should tow well, fit bikes in the bed. It drives like a dream compared to the 1993. I have BOTH F-150 window stickers, if anyone wants to see the difference 24 model years makes!

Have ~1 month to buy a new trailer, drive up to NY to grab the goods, and find somewhere down here to put them :/ the race is on! Excited to have the beautiful weather and track access of the south. But for now.....no new work!

[Hindsight]

Awesome, congrats Frank! Looks very similar to my truck. I see you got the FX4 version? I went with a 2WD "Sport" version because I don't need 4WD down here in Hotlanta.

What type and size of trailer are you getting? Around here, used enclosed trailers are pretty expensive. I see most of them advertised for new prices, or $500 below new. I still need a trailer too, but that might be a ways out for me yet.

[Frank818]

Not a super exciting update, but it's proof that I'm still alive!

Yeah I was about to post on your thread saying you totally forgot about all of us! :)



Have ~1 month to buy a new trailer, drive up to NY to grab the goods, and find somewhere down here to put them :/

You moved?


What's the torque of that beast?

[DanielsDM]

Nice!

[Pearldrummer7]

Awesome, congrats Frank! Looks very similar to my truck. I see you got the FX4 version? I went with a 2WD "Sport" version because I don't need 4WD down here in Hotlanta.

What type and size of trailer are you getting? Around here, used enclosed trailers are pretty expensive. I see most of them advertised for new prices, or $500 below new. I still need a trailer too, but that might be a ways out for me yet.
I got a hella good deal on the truck, as my last company made the aluminum (X-Plan discount). It's a 2wd XL, STX appearance package got me the color matched bumper!

Local trailer I'm highly considering:
http://www.wowcargotrailers.com/products.php?id=136


Yeah I was about to post on your thread saying you totally forgot about all of us! :)




You moved?


What's the torque of that beast?
Just under 400 ft*lb. Less than the Ecoboost 3.5 but sounds soooooo good :)
I did! Asheville, NC! Making beer now. It's heaven! Hit VIR last weekend on a whim :)

Nice!
Thanks!

[Frank818]

Aaaah, Nashville... sorry Asheville! I went there on my bike trip couple of years ago, not too far from the Blue Ridge and Tail of the Dragon!

[Hindsight]

Wow you aren't too far from me now. Hopefully we will run some track events together soon. You should come down to Road Atlanta sometime. Lots of tracks down here. I wouldn't say it's an ideal track for the 818 though, since the slowest corner on the track is like 70mph and the track highly favors mega-HP cars. It's fun though, and the low turn count makes it easy to learn to perfect the corners.

[Pearldrummer7]

Aaaah, Nashville... sorry Asheville! I went there on my bike trip couple of years ago, not too far from the Blue Ridge and Tail of the Dragon!
Done some of both already. So awesome! Can't wait to have the 818 down here for more fun :) need a bike too....


Wow you aren't too far from me now. Hopefully we will run some track events together soon. You should come down to Road Atlanta sometime. Lots of tracks down here. I wouldn't say it's an ideal track for the 818 though, since the slowest corner on the track is like 70mph and the track highly favors mega-HP cars. It's fun though, and the low turn count makes it easy to learn to perfect the corners.

Hell yeah! I was gonna come to Atlanta this weekend but I-85 collapsed and it's gonna be a disaster traffic-wise. I can't wait to have the car down here :)

[Hindsight]

You shouldn't be impacted by the I85 collapse because that is near down-town and Road Atlanta is actually quite a ways North of town.... as in, 45 minutes or so North of Atlanta. You shouldn't be impacted.

Let me know when you come down!

[Pearldrummer7]

So, got a whole tow rig setup at this point. Mega shoutout to Keith for the trailer and the hospitality! I just got to NY Tuesday night and want to leave either Saturday or Sunday. Hurriedly assembling the 818 (and the rest of my life)

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2843/34259107446_4b892eb653_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/UcmT5j)

[Hindsight]

AWESOME trailer! 24'?

[Pearldrummer7]

You bet!

So, anyone think this is a problem? Doesn't look right to me.....
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4163/33464147094_a26743c756_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/SZ7v4m)
https://c1.staticflickr.com/5/4155/34148245152_ac5b2d09fa_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/U2yFzs)

[Frank818]

Any pix of your "new" 818?

[Pearldrummer7]

Hey guys--

Been a while. About 6 months since I really had my hands all up in the 818; about a year since I made any good progress. A move, selling my 2 DDs for a different one, a new job, lotta motorcycle stuff, and I'm finally "settled" enough to dive in. So this weekend I stopped making excuses and did just that.

-I took the rear end off
-I did a rear wheel bearing and lower bushings(they kinda needed it)
-Mounted the clocked turbo (thanks Craig!) and started looking at what I'm up against in terms of intercooler plumbing

Some interesting things:

Had to break the little connection between the coolant goes-inta and the coolant goes-outta so I could rotate the upper one to get around the turbo inlet.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4495/37731513961_ce7537bb7a_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZucSya)

Plumbing nightmare in there between turbo and AOS. Time for some cleanup and prolly relocation of the AOS
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4493/23878733848_95f0066a17_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Co5KDJ)

Also, noticed my oil return from the turbo isn't super pretty. That's sad.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4455/37731514001_6ef7f4ae3d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZucSyR)

[Scargo]

https://2008subarutrack.shutterfly.com/279Do you have heads with two vent nipples or just one? If two, you might consider https://2008subarutrack.shutterfly.com/279https://2008subarutrack.shutterfly.com/279a crossover tube (https://2008subarutrack.shutterfly.com/279) like I made (https://2008subarutrack.shutterfly.com/245) and ditching some unnecessary water lines. Made from 5/8" thin-walled soft aluminum tubing.
Note how clean my water crossover manifold is. I actually went to thin-walled Neoprene tubing for the vent T hoses. You don't need a throttle body heat system.
Turbo water fittings could come straight out of housing?
Glad to see you back on it.

[Frank818]

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4455/37731514001_6ef7f4ae3d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZucSyR)

Hey! I recognise that front bumper!! :)

Glad you're finally back! The wait was long.

[longislandwrx]

yeah i would relocate, that's just a mess of hose over there, a custom breather manifold under the intake would be pretty cool.

[RetroRacing]

We did just that using dash 10 lines to a T out of the PVC valve hole, then deleted the oil filler and put in a dash 12 fitting there to the DS tank.

[Pearldrummer7]

So, a bit more stuff! Turbo wastegate was flapping about. Crap in the turbo worsened. Welded that up at work(thanks to a friend)

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4633/38541361864_d45cf4383f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21HLy83)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4638/25382211998_65530da09f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/EEWtjN)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4736/24386681477_f7b5bf8e58_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/D9Y7Mt)


Also, spent so long delaying because of $ and how much I had planned (shift linkage/MR2 shifter swap, the new trans, the AWIC and side vents) that I decided to dial it back. Gonna do 1 at a time. So I unclocked the turbo:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4588/38470169704_9af17f6efd_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21BtFb1)

Also got some new clamps..... one at a time! But man they are nice.
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4593/27473434469_29b9445a6f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HRJwUD)

[Pearldrummer7]

Also, off topic: I rode at Barber over thanksgiving. WOW that is a crazy track. Mostly on the ninja(600), partly on a borrowed R3

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4692/38372730315_e0c421e686_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/21sSgQx)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4597/39220846142_91a34e41c9_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22KP68d)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4636/24386764207_ceb241d745_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/D9YxnR)

One more "aside"– I have hella long 2 piece race ramps (131" I think?) that I no longer need now that I have a hella low trailer. In case anyone wants them; they helped me load the 818 on a really tall trailer in years past

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8534/29533525226_18f3a5dfbc_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/LZM37N)

[Rob T]

Too bad. I built some 3 piece plywood ramps to solve the same problem two years ago. How high are they at the end where the trailer ramps went? How much do you want for them?

[Zach34]

Not to go too far off-topic, but how was the R3?

[Pearldrummer7]

Too bad. I built some 3 piece plywood ramps to solve the same problem two years ago. How high are they at the end where the trailer ramps went? How much do you want for them?

Posted a for sale thread here

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?26851-2-piece-Race-Ramps-for-trailer&p=306396#post306396


Not to go too far off-topic, but how was the R3?

R3 was neat. Little bikes are always fun. I prefer the Ninja 300 to it, but I also prefer my Ninja 600 to an R6

[Frank818]

You're still in NY? Well your avatar is. :)

How hella low is your new trailer? Low in terms of height or in terms of angle?

Happy Holidays and don't forget to buy your Trumpy Bear! lolll

[Pearldrummer7]

So, I was just about to start the 818 when I realized I had a fuel leak from an injector. Pulled it off and found this as an o-ring:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4760/39574067955_3bb6afb5ec_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23i2rEt)

Guess I'm doing all my o-rings! Also, I got tow mirrors for the Ferd. 'Murica! So huge compared to the 818.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4740/26598862728_89752a615d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Gws8cw)

[Scargo]

Thems be bad! I mean the mirrors. A little drag but hey, you will see everyone behind you.
Nice to see you thinking out of the box! They will be really intimidating...

[longislandwrx]

Pm sent.. my new garage has a lip, these new ramps might be perfect.

[Pearldrummer7]

Trigger warning: janky stuff below. Not for the faint of heart.

I had some JANK around the engine, and my second fuel leak (an old hose that was sweating) was my breaking point to do a little overhaul on it. I replaced all the fuel hoses, hitting coolant hoses with some cleanup, removing unused wiring (PS pressure sensor, TGV stuff), and got rid of some monstrosities down there. My welded shut PCV valve was missing on my first track day (fell out), so I got out my JB welder on my spare valve. That has since been holding pressure in my manifold. Yikes.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4795/26810346448_a3d547ea61_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GR92Wy)
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4793/39971704694_604d0cddb0_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23Uardj)
Cleaning up some wiring.....bachelor style. Some Subaru bros do TGV deletes.... I did that and TGV wiring deletes. Mostly for cleanliness in the engine bay, but every ounce counts!
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4771/39786610205_ea75f70793_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23BNM52)
Think this held pressure?
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4783/39786612905_b55f2765ca_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23BNMSz)
Said fuel leak. I knew I was on borrowed time here.

I was going to replace all the unused hose connectors with just bolts, but dudes, wtf thread is it?? M10x.9? 3/8 - 27? It's a strange size according to my measurements(calipers + thread finder). Might just weld them shut. Also, anyone know what this hose was for? I am going to plug it, but didn't know what its deal was.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4794/25810683577_fc0300c9b2_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/FjNuZP)

[Scargo]

It's likely the metric equivalent of 1/8" NPT. I suggest just tapping it to that. It is a tapered thread. It is very close to the NPT size. At least when I plug unused holes for fittings I re-tap them and I have mostly NPT sensor ends so I re-tap those too.

[Sgt.Gator]

Subaru uses a Japanese "npt" known as JIS; equivalent to BSPT not NPT for pipe threads. There is a slight difference from BSPT in the seats. Strangely, it is not metric, it's Imperial. See: https://www.adaptall.com/info-tutorials/identify-British-threads.php

There are charts and conversion calculators on the internet. There are also threads about it on NASIOC. This usually comes up when trying to put an AEM 1/8" NPT sensor directly in the block, you can screw it and get it to seal with thread sealant, but only once. When you pull it out the block threads will be hosed. There are BSPT to NPT adapators available at many dealers.

[longislandwrx]

+1 for British std pipe thread bspt... usually easier and much cheaper to drill out and retap for npt, especially since you have it all open.

[Mechie3]

Definitely BSPT. The brake boost nipple was BSPT. NPT will fit, but the taper is different and it won't seal. That line was for the purge solenoid.

[Pearldrummer7]

You guys are awesome. Thanks for the heads up on the BSPT. Got a tap and will be giving it some freedom, NPT style!

Took off the coolant crossover pipe and did a little cleanup down there (and replaced the really old and cracked O rings). Just kinda going through and making things a little more robust as they're accessible. Had a broken bolt on the crossover pipe and had to drill/tap it.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/820/40917369381_03b3ac466f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25kJdnT)

Another fix at the track. Bypassed my oil heater using whatever I had lying around, which included some 1/2" copper tubing that I hand bent. That has been there for WAY too long. Gone and replaced with some more robust coolant hose that's routed a bit cleaner.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/785/39107381250_36a479e6fd_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/22zMxXY)

Here is the before picture of coolant and PCV stuff. Basically was a rats nest of hoses.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/807/40023608965_f29fd4360c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23YKsxx)

Shortened this guy up (using an angle grinder....no mistakes made, not even a little scratch!)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/799/40917370251_3f83e788f1_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25kJdCT)

And instead of the old way of right-exiting hose goes left and left-exiting hose goes right, it's a little more direct now. This was the old path to the throttle body warmer, which is long gone. I am actually hoping I can figure out a way to entirely delete this path from both the crossover pipe and the path coming up from the engine on the left. Thoughts? Path in red is the current set up.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/809/40208535364_28d4b557aa_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24g6fHJ)

[Pearldrummer7]

Did some more cleanup of things I'm not super proud of to less ghetto things:

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/876/40555971365_d58d2abbd9_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24MMXkB)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/795/39640875660_297ae62f30_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23oVRgs)

Found THIS. Keyway itself is fine, but damn is that not going back on t
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/809/40555975855_31c2656a36_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24MMYF2)

Made this with my amateur welding skills so the wastegate heat can be sent out a little better than before. I also have since cut it flush with the exhaust pipe
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/890/40555967865_192cdd9052_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24MMWig)

Biggest problem: I have a single speed bump separating me (and a mile of road) from the Blue Ridge Parkway that my car will not make it over. I have to figure out a way to make a quick and dirty ghetto ramp that's easily deployable.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/869/39640880480_f1028e3a93_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/23oVSGy)

My question to y'all:
It's too loud for around town or Blue Ridge driving. What's the best way to quiet the exhaust down and is easily-ish removable/fixable for track events? anyone have a nice high flow muffler for my 3" pipe?

[Mitch Wright]

We sell baffles that slide into the end of the tailpipe, we stock 2" - 4"
84099
just drill a couple of holes in the pipe/baffle and 2 #8 bolts and lock nuts and you are set. We see a reduction of 4-6DB on average.

[Frank818]

Nice dump pipe! :)

It seems after seeing my garage floor tiles you decided to buy the same in grey? loll But you're missing a lot to complete the entire floor, I guess that money went on the car!

[Pearldrummer7]

We sell baffles that slide into the end of the tailpipe, we stock 2" - 4"
84099
just drill a couple of holes in the pipe/baffle and 2 #8 bolts and lock nuts and you are set. We see a reduction of 4-6DB on average.
Gave Justin a call; thanks for the heads up! Looking for the bigger baffle set and he said you only carried the 2 baffle (not 3) :(


Nice dump pipe! :)

It seems after seeing my garage floor tiles you decided to buy the same in grey? loll But you're missing a lot to complete the entire floor, I guess that money went on the car!

More like giving them a test run, but yes entirely inspired by your garage, actually! I really like them and will be filling it out more. So comfy to lay on!

[Wayne Presley]

I use the Vibrant 1142 muffler on my systems

[RetroRacing]

We use the Blox muffler with turn down, straight through, great sound, way under on sound requirements.

[Mitch Wright]

I am running a 3X12" Dynomax stainless race muffler 97db @ 50'
84848

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Am running the OEM cat only. Mitch say I'm below the sound limits at his track.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=84849&d=1474354726

[Mitch Wright]

Well below our 103db limit, Bob if I remember correctly your cars was 94-95db. The cast iron OEM exhaust manifold mellows exhaust note some over a tube header as well.

[Pearldrummer7]

Been a whole year. Damn. I am not falling back off the wagon this time!

Bought a house, did a lot to the most important space in it (the garage). It's a beautiful house with a killer view, but the garage really sold it to me. ~2,200 sq ft of basement/garage, almost all of which is 9' ceilings. Super well built house (poured concrete on steel I-beams). Here's some before/after epoxy/paint in the shop portion. Other side of that wall is a garage big enough to fit my truck, a car, a few bikes, and all the yard equipment. The inside "shop" is big enough for the 818, a few bikes, and plenty of room to move around still.
https://live.staticflickr.com/7816/47510281232_f7d8acc99f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2fojBnS)
https://live.staticflickr.com/7852/46647734365_31c50c7cd8_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2e56Qfa)
https://live.staticflickr.com/7807/47563141021_cfb564f8a5_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2fsZwKx)
with some toys in it



Then, I started diving back in where I left off. Transmission STILL leaks, so that's at a local transmission shop for evaluation. There is a LOT of jank in this race car right now. Spending as long as it takes to clean it up something proper. First thing's first....I hate that the firewall was attached via rivets. It's such a pain to remove! Since I was gonna pull it for the horrible wiring gore that accumulated under it, might as well take care of that too. Embarassing, but embracing how bad it is is the best way to start fixing it, I think. Wiring gore photo below (warning: it's bad).

https://live.staticflickr.com/7804/32620563827_fca4d30f60_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/RGyV9g)
what happens all-too-often to removed rivets....such a pain

https://live.staticflickr.com/7844/46647740785_61bcc1d2b8_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2e56S9R)


I'm BACK! And it feels good. Miss y'all

[Mitch Wright]

Very Nice congratulations.

[Rob T]

Glad you are back. Congratulations on the house and shop. What a great work space.

[Kurk818]

Nice place. Looks like it will be plenty warm in there as well :)

We all love seeing progress and photos. Keep it up

[Pearldrummer7]

Garage is warm in the winter, and (more importantly, in NC) cool in the summer. Pretty excited about how comfy it is so far.

Transmission guy said he found the problem. Doing o ring (not the axle seal) that I'm unaware of (and that's probably why it hasn't been replaced before). Hoping to pick that up tomorrow.



Here's the freaking mess I've made pulling things out. I'm gonna further diet the harness, rearrange things to be easier to service while the car is in-use, and make it way prettier.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47759867302_3ce747ed94_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2fLnNBY)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47811884561_619411e82a_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2fQYpxg)
Got plenty of cut but not de-pinned wires. Looking for suggestions when this happens while trying to de-pin the wires. Anyone got a nice tool recomendation for me or something?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47811884541_4c2d2f8ec1_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2fQYpwV)


And of course, I'll weigh the box's contents when I'm done :)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40845511033_13f10faf57_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25enVoR)

[aquillen]

Frank,

Just for you ...;)...

Getting into connectors is "easy" !

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?32146-Removing-extracting-pins-terminals-from-Subaru-connectors&p=366923#post366923

I would consider hiding that hammer, you don't need it for wiring work. I keep such tools put away most of the time, temptation would be to correct a problem part by rendering it inert...

Oh, and when you get the connector de-pin down, go back and catch those ones you cut with a hemostat and pull them out too :)

[Pearldrummer7]

WOAH. This is some AWESOME information. I somehow missed the 2016 post on this despite all my electrical searching. Art-- thanks so much for this! Guess I've got a few tools to buy.


Hammer is (hopefully) not for that!

[Pearldrummer7]

Also, forgot about these and figured people might get a kick out of the "artwork" in the shop. All places I've ridden/driven:

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/32874658217_5f925d4042_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/S62dy2)

Top row, then bottom row, L->R: CVMP in upstate NY (kart track), NYST, Barber Motorsports Park, Jennings GP, National Corvette Museum, SLMP (upstate NY), Waktins Glen, Road Atlanta, Talledega GP.


Process

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/46902092635_2e79209ab0_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2eszu6z)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47766269002_fc760c557f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2fLWBC7)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/40852008853_76cd6639cb_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25eXdYe)

[Mitch Wright]

Cool and honored that you have NCM on your wall.

[aquillen]

Those layouts are fun. You'all know about the sinkhole at the NCM not so many years ago that swallowed several cars. I was there about a year before that happened. What a bummer.

[Pearldrummer7]

NCM is a great track, and a killer venue for a track day. Those garages had me drooling (mostly for shade; I went in July I think).

I was working on it downstairs and my girlfriend said "why don't you bring the wiring upstairs? You could do it in the dining room", followed by "...That's a lot of wires. How long is this going to take?"

The cat, however, is a fan of a giant mess of toy in the dining room. He's been helping me stay distracted. I think I can remove a good bit of this, now that I know more (still had things like fuel drain solenoid, fuel temp sensors, windshield washer)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47050714854_631106f244_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2eFHdiC)

Which reminds me of this throwback of a post where I was wiring in my dining room and was accused (rightfully so) of being single
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=187305&viewfull=1#post187305

[Mitch Wright]

You were here in July and didn't track me down??? next time. :)

[Frank818]

Garage is warm in the winter, and (more importantly, in NC) cool in the summer.

Say that again? NC? Where has gone CO?

[Pearldrummer7]

Say that again? NC? Where has gone CO?

I moved from NY to NC with New Belgium ~2.5 years ago. I spend some time out at our first plant (CO) but I'm mostly down South (and more importantly, that's where my garage/house are) :)

[Frank818]

Oh! Ok I thought you fully moved to CO back then.

Well as long as you continue painting on your wall every single track you track onto, that is really awesome! I love the idea! Those are trophies, even when you get disqualified from some of those races due to, I dunno, lack of fuel, say... loollll

[Pearldrummer7]

about 90% done with the re-wiring. Trimmed a lot of stuff, made things the right length (less there and back), separated them into distinct harnesses a bit better, and color coded the sections. Check out how clean my rear light harness is! Hoping to shove the harness into the car this weekend

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48797796463_ece6d90b98_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hm6sNk)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48797796408_57a89b272d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hm6sMo)

[Frank818]

You trimmed to save weight? :)

You did that lime green wire sleeve? Looks nice!

[Pearldrummer7]

You trimmed to save weight? :)

You did that lime green wire sleeve? Looks nice!
I actually mostly trimmed it while waiting for my transmission to be fixed (it's back now), but it was kind of a mess and not color coded at all. It's a lot prettier now. This wrap SUCKS to apply but it's quite nice.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48826129396_4c02484364_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hoAFcb)
filled this box up twice with scrap wire.

This is what it looks like laid out. Not great but a lot nicer than before. Bunch less wires, nicer connectors, some color coding, and a lot less messy
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48826129361_acee0988dd_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hoAFbz)

[Frank818]

That's nice, man!
A couple hours more and your awesome race car will look like mine (but running well). :)

[Pearldrummer7]

So, I put the harness in the car. It feels much more organized and protected than before! Still not as clean as an iWire harness, but I've had fun and the price is certainly right.

I'm thinking I'm gonna put the engine compartment fuse box and the interior fuse box in the center tunnel, and build a little hatch to access them. Thinking I'll put it here and then cut out the red section of the tunnel cover to make it accessible (hinged or clipped in, perhaps?)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48859112901_51dc3ec2a3_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hrvJ3i)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48858766983_c2c41c78dd_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hrtXdc)

[Frank818]

Yes make sure the fuse box is accessible!! Don't do like me... loll

[Pearldrummer7]

I had it very inaccessible too at first. It totally sucked lol I don't know what I was thinking. Here's some before and after of the trans tunnel cover

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48864923242_3919891b73_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hs2vfA)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48864201833_b37371bae2_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hrXNNv)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48864923352_96627f2413_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hs2vhu)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48864923332_6a8438c495_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hs2vh9)


I'll take any tips anyone can give on making it prettier in there. Functional enough for me right now, but looks pretty meh

I had all my switches on this little plate I made. I'm nervous to cut into the dash because I don't have the highest confidence making a hole for each of these and I worry I'll be outta luck if I ever change switches. Any dashboard thoughts?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48864923227_cdc9fbe4fd_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hs2vfk)

[aquillen]

You could play around with using thin aluminum sheet (super thin stuff - hardware store flashing is cheap but a little hard to work without crinkling it) as a dash cover plate. Then if holes need to be changed later you just make a new aluminum plate. Aluminum can be painted or powder coated although it can be fussy about "stick" sometimes. Or if you are into wood grain, some veneer or wood look vinyl over aluminum or direct to the dash, again something that lets you re-do if ever needed. Done carefully even a sheet of thin lexan / polycarbonate would work.

So possible materials to make a face plate, most of which are Home Depot, Menards, etc:
aluminum sheet such as .03 thick
aluminum flashing
plastic sheet - lexan / polycarbonate
formica / equivalent laminate
Vinyl / Naugahyde with/without a stiffener backing like al flashing / even thin cardboard
wood grain - veneer products
wood grain look - automotive stick on vinyls
hobby craft type plywood panels - some are incredibly thin - hobby stores, hobby lobby, Menards (not sure they go thin enough)

For bonding to the dash consider some screws or rivets, otherwise glue it on. That adhesive I used in my build thread to do the vinyl to the dash holds like crazy.

[Pearldrummer7]

You could play around with using thin aluminum sheet (super thin stuff - hardware store flashing is cheap but a little hard to work without crinkling it) as a dash cover plate. Then if holes need to be changed later you just make a new aluminum plate. Aluminum can be painted or powder coated although it can be fussy about "stick" sometimes. Or if you are into wood grain, some veneer or wood look vinyl over aluminum or direct to the dash, again something that lets you re-do if ever needed. Done carefully even a sheet of thin lexan / polycarbonate would work.

So possible materials to make a face plate, most of which are Home Depot, Menards, etc:
aluminum sheet such as .03 thick
aluminum flashing
plastic sheet - lexan / polycarbonate
formica / equivalent laminate
Vinyl / Naugahyde with/without a stiffener backing like al flashing / even thin cardboard
wood grain - veneer products
wood grain look - automotive stick on vinyls
hobby craft type plywood panels - some are incredibly thin - hobby stores, hobby lobby, Menards (not sure they go thin enough)

For bonding to the dash consider some screws or rivets, otherwise glue it on. That adhesive I used in my build thread to do the vinyl to the dash holds like crazy.

Art-- I just looked through your thread extensively. It's extremely impressive what you've done to the interior. I think I'm going to take a page (or a chapter) out of your book. Appreciate the suggestions man

[Pearldrummer7]

So, while the engine is out, I figured I would (re) replace my leaking cam seal and try to figure out why that happened. I took off the timing belt following the FSM, and when I did the tensioner sprung and spun the driver's side cams. Not a lot, but the valve can interfere with both the piston and each other. So I've ordered a leakdown tester (happy to receive any advice on giving it a test). A few friends said it's unlikely that they're damaged but I am worried about it. Anyone with experience on that front?


Good excuse to clean the engine up a bit.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49011825303_7824af6b89_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hF1q7K)

[Newkitguy]

Hey frank which radiator shroud did you go with?

[Sgt.Gator]

So, while the engine is out, I figured I would (re) replace my leaking cam seal and try to figure out why that happened. I took off the timing belt following the FSM, and when I did the tensioner sprung and spun the driver's side cams. Not a lot, but the valve can interfere with both the piston and each other. So I've ordered a leakdown tester (happy to receive any advice on giving it a test). A few friends said it's unlikely that they're damaged but I am worried about it. Anyone with experience on that front?


Good excuse to clean the engine up a bit.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49011825303_7824af6b89_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hF1q7K)


It's extremely unlikely the valves are damaged if you had the crank in the correct position when you took the belt off. If you think about it, what causes the cams to spin a little? It's because they are slightly under tension of the valve springs. When you take the belt off and they turn they are just being turned by the valve spring pressure, and that pressure is closing the valves, not opening them further. So they are moving away from interference, not towards it. And they only spin enough to bring all the valves to closed so the tension is gone.

Of course it's completely different if you lose a timing belt while the engine is running.

A leak down test is good anyways for lots of reasons, so go ahead and do it, but if you have a leakdown issue it's probably not because the valves are damaged from taking the belt off.

[Pearldrummer7]

It's extremely unlikely the valves are damaged if you had the crank in the correct position when you took the belt off. If you think about it, what causes the cams to spin a little? It's because they are slightly under tension of the valve springs. When you take the belt off and they turn they are just being turned by the valve spring pressure, and that pressure is closing the valves, not opening them further. So they are moving away from interference, not towards it. And they only spin enough to bring all the valves to closed so the tension is gone.

Of course it's completely different if you lose a timing belt while the engine is running.

A leak down test is good anyways for lots of reasons, so go ahead and do it, but if you have a leakdown issue it's probably not because the valves are damaged from taking the belt off.

I was not thinking about which way the valves were springing, which is of course away from the piston. I just got nervous with the bolded warning in the FSM. I'm still gonna do a leakdown test (hopefully tonight) and see how it is, but the more I read and think about it, the less likely it seems that it's damaged while not running. It'll be telling!

I appreciate the reassurance, Gator!

[Pearldrummer7]

Hey frank which radiator shroud did you go with?

Hey! I have no radiator shroud; just running with the mounts from Mechie3/Zero Decibel Motorsports and the stock radiator. Were you thinking of Canadian Frank with his (now blue) new-front-end 818? Can't find exactly where the shroud is but it's around or after here

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12179-Frank818-1993-VW-VR6-Turbo-donor-Build-Thread/page36


Fun fact, I have his old spare nose from when he upgraded (years ago)

[Newkitguy]

Perhaps....my mistake

[Pearldrummer7]

Leakdown tested the engine this weekend with a friend. I had concerns about being TDC and holding timing steady after a few little slip ups, so we did it both with the timing system in and without (valve covers off and valves closed, just held the crank) and the results [which were almost exactly the same]:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49048872532_817429126f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hJhhY5)
11%-----9%
15%----15%

(with the bottom text being the front of the engine). Not bad; fairly consistent? Little high; heard it through the crankcase breathers and oil, but again not a huge cause for concern for me. Thinking this means I will not pull the heads. What is, however, a cause for concern:


Why is there so much Fuji Bond (RTV, whatever) covering the engine? Gonna take a deeper look, clean everything up, replace all gaskets nearby.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49048156063_b7d49ec45c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hJdBZa)



Got this sweet cam holder. It makes working on timing a lot less frustrating.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49048156053_ef4fed7852_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hJdBYZ)

[Frank818]

No way!!!! That red carpet is exactly the same my parents had until 2 months ago! Did you steal it from them? hahahahahahah

That's a nice cam holder tool, you got 2 sides to work on and I guess it's a lot easier when the engine is out. Happy I got a VR6 for those 2 reasons, though.

Are those the corrugated hoses you got from me?

[Pearldrummer7]

No way!!!! That red carpet is exactly the same my parents had until 2 months ago! Did you steal it from them? hahahahahahah

That's a nice cam holder tool, you got 2 sides to work on and I guess it's a lot easier when the engine is out. Happy I got a VR6 for those 2 reasons, though.

Are those the corrugated hoses you got from me?

haha they're actually from my SO's parents. Her father collects foreign rugs and gave us a ton of them. I had to pinky promise to not damage the few in the shop :)

Yes they are the hoses from you; I love these things. Jealous of VR6 timing; seems easier than the Subie

[Pearldrummer7]

I checked valve clearances while in here. Pretty close, but all a little loose. Intake range from 0.23mm to 0.25mm (spec is 0.20 +- 0.02), and exhaust is anywhere from 0.30 to 0.38(spec is 0.25 +- 0.02). I have the old shim over bucket style, which isn't fantastic. But since loose is conservative vs tight, I'll take a little power loss and leave well enough alone, don't y'all agree?

[Scargo]

I think I'd leave it. I don't know if more heat makes clearances close, but certainly the wear of seat and valve close up the gap. Mods can effect it.
ON my race engine, with beehive springs and 272 high lift cams, I once set the valves on the tight side and after a year and something I burnt two valves (started seeing compression loss).

[Frank818]

Jealous of VR6 timing; seems easier than the Subie

I'm really happy my body parts and tubing are in good use on your car, keep things going, man.
Speaking of cam timing, https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12179-Frank818-1993-VW-VR6-Turbo-donor-Build-Thread&p=388687&viewfull=1#post388687



I'll take a little power loss and leave well enough alone, don't y'all agree?

It's a race car, no power loss allowed (no out of gas as well!), make it as powerful as possible and rebuild the engine after every track day. loolll

Sorry I can't seriously help on this one.

[Pearldrummer7]

I think I'd leave it. I don't know if more heat makes clearances close, but certainly the wear of seat and valve close up the gap. Mods can effect it.
ON my race engine, with beehive springs and 272 high lift cams, I once set the valves on the tight side and after a year and something I burnt two valves (started seeing compression loss).

Figured, I've heard these horror stories enough times. Trying not to see the valves again for a few years.


I started to torque the caps back to spec and it felt WAY too difficult, and the cam shafts couldn't even rotate freely at that torque. I started looking around and found a thread (https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1637450) talking about how 14.5 ft*lbs is a misprint and is only for the rear camshalt bolts (8mm). The cap 6mm ones are 7 ft*lbs, which feels MUCH more correct. I got to thinking about it, dug out some old RTV from that mess on the engine, and found where this got the previous owner too. Explains the gobs of RTV there. Careful if you're torquing a bolt according to the FSM, there's mistakes in it!!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49104946036_6ab75283cb_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hPeFEC)

[C.Plavan]

Make sure to change those sub strap mount points- They are very unsafe there. They need to be under the seat. Your Family Jewels with thank you if you have an accident.

[Pearldrummer7]

Make sure to change those sub strap mount points- They are very unsafe there. They need to be under the seat. Your Family Jewels with thank you if you have an accident.

added to the to-do list. Thanks for the suggestion, Chad!


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49163090831_6d85d5037c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hUnG66)
Made a new switch panel, because my old one was embarrassingly bad.

The second I sat down Vern joined me. Doesn't like being in the race car but loves to be around it.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49162613108_d140c2d125_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hUkf5u)

[Frank818]

Just make sure there won't be any cat fur flying around and sticking on those cams!

[Pearldrummer7]

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49352279292_6506cd2205_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ic6ke7)

a few tries later, I got the right covers in, and set out to destroy, er, repair the stuck bolts in the block. There are so many of them! Not like they're easy to tap.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49352279257_624ccfd515_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ic6kdv)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49352279242_2f439711d7_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ic6kdf)

it ain't super pretty, but it's buttoned up! feels nice
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49352073706_a25bb0f1fa_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ic5h7w)

[Pearldrummer7]

engine is in! wiring, plumbing, clutch tonight or tomorrow, then tranny!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49380568421_78a48505b0_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ieAjAH)

[sgarrett]

You can save yourself some potential challenges if you remove that metal shield plate from the bottom of the engine before you try to slide the tranny in. It is much easier to take it on and off than it is to line up the tranny with it in place.

[Pearldrummer7]

You can save yourself some potential challenges if you remove that metal shield plate from the bottom of the engine before you try to slide the tranny in. It is much easier to take it on and off than it is to line up the tranny with it in place.

I did that, and it was much easier. Also, I didn't realize how gross that little plate was until I took it off and started cleaning....ew.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49388710433_9184ee50b8_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ifj3We)

Got a bunch of stuff in! Lot left to do (torque things, intercooler pluming, fluids, plugging tons of stuff in) but it's getting closer!

[Pearldrummer7]

So, while I have been quarantined (working from home), I've had plenty of time to be buttoning up the race car....and scope creeping! wooooo.

Was just going to tighten up the throttle, and I broke this little plastic piece when I took it out, so I made a new one from a bolt I had that had a pretty close looking countersink angle:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49716940161_41ee250475_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iKjjct)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49717254332_b821b48ba6_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iKkVAd)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49717254477_8b4f4ed3fe_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iKkVCH)

Just popped a small hole in that, and got some new cable and a new end (from Summit racing, it's a Dorman Cable End 3337, fits perfectly in the throttle!)
Since I used a 7x7 1/16th" cable I ended up needing to drill out the cable end a bit (5/64th, just a 1/64 bigger). I also popped the same size hole in the little end I "fabricated"
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49716940226_668b2c534e_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iKjjdA)


Also got rid of 2 washers per bolt that hold in the throttle bracket but shortening the bolts a touch, using the tried and true die-and-hacksaw method:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49717254602_6e42850fca_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iKkVES)

[AZPete]

Good thinking!

[Pearldrummer7]

Put the seat in to recruit my lovely SO to help me bleed brakes and clutch. Getting really close to a test-start. Sounds silly since it ran last time I started it (1.5 years ago or so) but I'm still nervous about all the changes working smoothly.

Sat in that seat for WAY too long. I'm so excited!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49745360798_9afa97bc44_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iMPYEs)

[aquillen]

Sitting in the seat now and then, but not being able to drive = excellent motivator.

[sgarrett]

Sitting in the seat now and then, but not being able to drive = excellent motivator.

YES!!! I totally agree.

[Pearldrummer7]

Got a used GTC-250 with the Gurney flaps for a few hundred bucks (thank you the internet!). My friend owns a fab shop and has a huge plasma table, so sometime we're gonna crack some beers and start designing a better rear bumper (as I lost the removable one in the move down south) and wing support. Been looking at a few of your mounts and love what you have going on.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49810422306_4fa1cd3eeb_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iTzrbA)


Needs fluids, battery hooked up (on the charger now), shifter adjustment, and a once over to make sure everything is tight, and then we'll go for a start/drive!
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49810422371_cf0c2b6e15_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iTzrcH)


....but that got interrupted by moving our entire ~750 sq ft garage into the shop so we can paint the walls. Yes, I have too many motorcycles.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49810422356_f1ed9cf502_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iTzrcs)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49809868708_b3c6506c27_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iTwABN)


Also, we got a kitten! Had a foster that we thought was forever, and the original owner came back for it. New kitten loves the shop, so expect shop cat pics soon.

[Hobby Racer]

Oh man, that's a smoking deal on that wing. I have the same one, but paid full price :mad:

[Frank818]

Your garage is really cool, is that the one with wall drawings of every race tracks you raced on?

And do you have more pix of that black and red bike?

[Pearldrummer7]

Oh man, that's a smoking deal on that wing. I have the same one, but paid full price :mad:
Very good luck on my part, and pretty damn happy about it! Has a few chips, and I'm years late to having one but I'm pumped! Sorry about the price delta, Hobby!



Your garage is really cool, is that the one with wall drawings of every race tracks you raced on?

And do you have more pix of that black and red bike?

here (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=366980&viewfull=1#post366980) is where I did the how-to of it. Cheap and easy way to have some wall art! Gotta add crash markers :)


Yeah! It's an 07 ZX6R; that and the white/black R3 are my track bikes. The R3 is a blast, only 34 horsepower but very light and fun. The Ninja is so fast, I don't even know how people ride 1000 cc bikes.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49826525421_7a7da3d703_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iUZY5v)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49826524756_16af4f7d5e_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iUZXT3)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49826836962_bb7f420f65_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iV2yFU)


That, two dirtbikes (the 4 stroke 250 is a refugee, not mine!) and the old 90's Ninja 250 that I'm gifting to a friend (it was gifted to me, too). That's why I haven't finished the 818 in good time haha

[Pearldrummer7]

I sent this to someone on here because of his direct experience, but figured I'd post for the world to see too, chime in if you have thoughts!


I have an 07 5 speed with a Qauife. My dipstick broke when the trans blew up (full rebuild since then), and I'm not sure what I should do. Could get another stock dipstick, unless there are other (better) ones for this? I know the level isn't accurate.

I also am unsure of the fluid quantity with an LSD for these things. Probably less than 3.7? I've had problems leaking in the past and would like to not do that.


Thanks all!

[Pearldrummer7]

So I filled coolant and had a leak. Turns out the hose from my expansion chamber to the engine coolant loop was pretty bad off. I ordered the direct replacement, not even thinking that the relocation would make that hose way too short. I then tried to make one out of right-sized coolant hose that I had, and it's just a little too kinked (despite my best tries).

In looking online, I can't figure out what hose I need here. Anyone know/recall? I have Mechie's relocation bracket
Nevermind, I am dumb. Mechie sent it with the relocation kit. If anyone knows the part #, lemme know!
Double nevermind, I am dumb again. Mechie sent the kit with just some coolant hose, and I have mounted the expansion chamber bracket on the wrong side (top, should be bottom) of the reservoir. I'm sure moving it will make the angle less harsh and help ease the bend radius.


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49885015902_02d729f45a_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2j1aKg5)

Also, our kitten likes the race car and climbing, so here she sits, judging my failures.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49884706981_43a518e0cc_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2j19aqR)

[STiPWRD]

Are you running a MAF tune or speed density? I just noticed you have a bend right before the MAF sensor. I did this once and it really messed up my mass flow readings, had to go back to a straight section of pipe. The car ran super rich.

[Pearldrummer7]

Are you running a MAF tune or speed density? I just noticed you have a bend right before the MAF sensor. I did this once and it really messed up my mass flow readings, had to go back to a straight section of pipe. The car ran super rich.

It's a MAF. I do run pretty rich, so perhaps that's part of it. I have to find a tuner down here. Sounds like something I might wanna fix once I do.

Do you have a pic of the current setup? I see some older engine bay pics in your build, but probably not with the straight section

[STiPWRD]

I used to run a short section of pipe with the MAF, just like you, between the inlet tube and a pod filter right before the MAF. I recently added a foot of pipe before the MAF and a mushroom filter that I'm planning to build a cold box around. The side scoop will feed cold air. I might also go with a speed density tune this summer and get rid of the MAF altogether. Here's a photo of my current setup - the MAF is hard to see but it's tucked up under the rear hump cover, against the rear firewall.
128302

[Pearldrummer7]

Ran pretty good! Idled high, but MAN it feels good to drive it down the road. Got a few things to troubleshoot (blinkers, rear lights (but brake lights and reverse worked), coolant fan went to low but not high), but that's gonna feel GOOD every time I open the garage door.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49898767238_791ca67e53_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2j2oe45)

Thanks for the help yo! You're all the best.

[AZPete]

Big congrats! Remember how hundreds of things must be working correctly to have it run and drive like that. I know that you'll be opening the door to the garage a few times just to look at your success!

[Frank818]

Big congrats! Remember how hundreds of things must be working correctly to have it run and drive like that.

Correction: thousands! :) Which makes Frank even better!

[Frank818]

Ran pretty good! Idled high, but MAN it feels good to drive it down the road. Got a few things to troubleshoot (blinkers, rear lights (but brake lights and reverse worked), coolant fan went to low but not high), but that's gonna feel GOOD every time I open the garage door.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49898767238_791ca67e53_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2j2oe45)

Thanks for the help yo! You're all the best.


Wait wait wait... Camry?? WTH, Frank? lolllll


But seriously, the feeling must be AWESOME again!

[AZPete]

Of course, Frank, there's a Camry there. He must have needed the headlights.

[Frank818]

He must have needed the headlights.

That explains why it's parked facing the wall! And check the tools on the trunk and welding machine besides... oh man Pete you are so right, he dismantled that Camry's headlights!

We gotcha, Frank, no escape from the People of the 818 Forum!

[aquillen]

Great look - nothin' but fun.

[AZPete]

The Camry could his wife's car and I wonder if she knows what he took. It could be okay, of course, if she doesn't drive at night. But then, what else did he swipe?

[Pearldrummer7]

haha you guys are cracking me up. We actually stole a bulb from the 818 once! :mad: that's the wrong way parts are supposed to go!

Took a good spill (high side) on the 600 this weekend. Hurt my wrist (fractured, some floating bone fragments poking my ligaments). Definitely not turning a throttle for a while, so really back to race car work 100%. I feel good besides that and the bike is actually in okay shape! EMTs on track were EXCELLENT and prompt, and all went well (all considered)

Wear your helmet! In the 818, on a bike, everywhere!


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49915459673_cfaee63973_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2j3RM8F)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49916273777_164c57ab48_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2j3VX8X)

[Frank818]

Frank, there are some crackers on this forum, be aware! lolll
And get rid of that Camry before all your 818 parts will get stolen.

You got lucky on your spill, let's hope it will heal quick and right.

Strange I don't see your photo links again. Will check from my phone then!


EDIT: YEAH! Wear a helmet!!! Just not this one... lolll

[STiPWRD]

Took a good spill (high side) on the 600 this weekend. Hurt my wrist (fractured, some floating bone fragments poking my ligaments). Definitely not turning a throttle for a while, so really back to race car work 100%. I feel good besides that and the bike is actually in okay shape! EMTs on track were EXCELLENT and prompt, and all went well (all considered)
That's funny, I had the same exact injury. I feel your pain! Had to wear a cast for 6 weeks.



https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49916273777_164c57ab48_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2j3VX8X)
That'll buff right out...

[AZPete]

Mount that helmet by the door as a reminder not to leave bare-headed!
I hope you heal quickly.

[Pearldrummer7]

Car has a new tune on it and is running well! Well, except for the coolant flow. The hose going from the top of the engine(from the hard "piping" under the intake manifold) is kinked, and got the engine a little warm (hopefully nothing too damaging).

I was wondering if anyone had suggestions on this hose. Could buy a replacement (not sure what it was originally, but that diameter and 80-90* looks like it'll work), or hard pipe it (with short sections of rubber on either side to allow for movement)? Would be a more robust corner, but one more set of unions.

Any thoughts are super welcome.


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50025862648_7ff78d2207_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jdBC6f)

[Frank818]

Hey is that my old corrugated hose in the background? :)

I can't help on your hose but 2 things: 1- how do you know it's that hose causing the overheat? 2- What caused it to kink? Hits the tube frame?

Good news though is the tune is working really well, so that'll be an easy fix (hose), cuz you're happy. loll

[Pearldrummer7]

Yup, that section is the extra line you gave me. I love that corrugated hose! Just reminisced on Frank and Frank driving up to Canada to visit Frank and how the boarder patrol person was like "...seriously?"

1- it was hot on the engine side of the hose and cold on the far side. Hoping that big temperature delta means it wasn't flowin'!
2-I think it's just an older hose, and maybe wasn't stored/transported well. Can't get the kink out of it even on the work bench, so I guess it's done.


Oh, I had a loose fuel line too (one of the soft rubber lines had a bad clamp. Replaced it and didn't have to use the fire extinguisher). Very happy that it's easy fixes so far!

[Frank818]

HAHAHA! That border patrol.... :)

Well one thing's for sure on your kinked hose, I would NOT like to see that on mine, I would always be looking at it, hating it, until I decide to fix it. It's funny how hoses (air or fluid) can easily **** the hell up if they don't follow a path/curvature they like.

[Pearldrummer7]

I made some side panels for the switch panel area. Nothing too pretty, but the price was right. No clue what this part was, but it was FFR aluminum(80634 by the looks of it), my brake, angle grinder, sanding, door trim, and some riv nuts.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50161571817_9204aeb7d2_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jqBaGv)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50161571832_7ca4c10bda_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jqBaGL)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50161571732_74c9655e9d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jqBaF3)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50161322771_aea7cf7019_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jqzTEB)

It's a LOT better than how bad it was before. "there's no worse engineer than you a few years ago" as my boss has told me.
before1 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=210269&viewfull=1#post210269)
and before2 (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=217409&viewfull=1#post217409)


also I found this horrible jank from the old security system that I never cleaned up. Jeez that's scary. from the key switch.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50160777128_c69a9e030d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jqx6sY)

[Frank818]

also I found this horrible jank from the old security system that I never cleaned up. Jeez that's scary. from the key switch.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50160777128_c69a9e030d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jqx6sY)

You drove the car with this? WTF happened there, a squirrel in your wiring?

Did you actually implement the special check engine light about that?

132617

[Pearldrummer7]

they were individually wrapped, but yup. I have no idea why he did what he did, but man it's gnarly.

[Pearldrummer7]

This is a big week for me. Going to register the 818 in NC (and the new trailer) tomorrow/Wednesday. Hope it passes inspection! Trailer is a 2019 8.5x20, 5.2k axles, pretty basic, but was $4,500 used so it leaves a few bucks in the budget to make it nice.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50209681678_2152c6d874_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2juRK5S)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50210203156_4e907b8a44_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2juUq6S)


Put in quite a few hours (in the heat of summer) tearing the walls down, labeling them, painting them, moving them all over the place. I got a test piece of insulation and some e track. Gonna have a friend help me weld the e track to the frame and insulate the walls. Babbling Brook is the color, part of our home palette.


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50209682058_b503c12939_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2juRKcq)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50210480872_12de59fe38_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2juVQE5)

[Pearldrummer7]

Took the 818 out for a drive. IT'S SO FUN! I love this thing. It went great....until it didn't! Got to test out the trailer, though! Need some race ramps.

Just a coolant bubble, I really need to do Wayne's mod. I think I can in the car if I pull the firewall.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50225508666_4fe36176d8_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jwfRTY)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50225509001_9a75818a8b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jwfRZK)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50224867353_26ddbc9a75_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jwczfR)

[Pearldrummer7]

more trailer build here if you're curious. budget version of a toyhauler

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?36976-Frank-s-8-5x20-trailer-build-thread

[Pearldrummer7]

Man, so much overheating :(

I had coolant bubble over, so I (finally) did Wayne's mod. It seems like a slam dunk. I did it in-car, had to loosen the fuel rail to get it in, and of course took off the 90* silicone hose to make sure to thoroughly clean out aluminum shreds.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50319743593_7832071269_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jEzQE6)

Still overheated, so I bought a vacuum bleeder, which is SWEET. worked quick, collapsed all the hoses (even all the way up front), and took a LOT of coolant, I feel like more than I would've expected (which is good!). No leaks under vacuum, so that's reassuring.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50319753303_efa6fe78e0_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jEzTxv)

STILL overheated. I ordered a new overflow res. cap and a new thermostat to check them. It's hot coming down out of the engine, and cool at the front of the car before the radiator. I really don't know where to go next. It started to boil over in the overflow res. and I shut it off. The coolant doesn't smell like exhaust, so I don't quite think it's the head gaskets going from exhaust-coolant (common DOHC HG failure on these, I believe).


Any thoughts?

[flynntuna]

The only thing that I can recommend is to seal off the area around the front of the radiator to direct the air thru the radiator instead of the air flowing around it.

[Pearldrummer7]

The only thing that I can recommend is to seal off the area around the front of the radiator to direct the air thru the radiator instead of the air flowing around it.

I should seal all of that off better. it's cool going into the radiator, so I imagine it's unrelated. Also the car used to not overheat, but the engine has been out and back in so perhaps something broke

[Ajzride]

It's almost certainly air in the system, I just spent months fighting the same thing. Even a vacuum fill system wouldn't get the air out. I ended up following Bob's suggestions and building a system to help the air escape into the overflow tank.

[Kurk818]

Have you checked your thermostat? Is the return hose only warm when it overheats? I encountered an overheating issue recently that was solved with a new thermostat.

[Sgt.Gator]

My standard advice before doing anything else: Make sure you have the burp tank cap on the burp tank (the cap with ears) and the radiator cap on the radiator (no ears). If you have an aftermarket cap ditch it and use the oem ones in the right places. Until you get that baseline you'll chase your tail trying to figure out the rest of it.

[Pearldrummer7]

It's almost certainly air in the system, I just spent months fighting the same thing. Even a vacuum fill system wouldn't get the air out. I ended up following Bob's suggestions and building a system to help the air escape into the overflow tank.
I'm gonna do some more tilting next time to maybe burp it better. I fear it's air, too.


Have you checked your thermostat? Is the return hose only warm when it overheats? I encountered an overheating issue recently that was solved with a new thermostat.
I ordered a new T-stat. Not really sure how to check it (boil some water and make sure it opens at the right temp?)


My standard advice before doing anything else: Make sure you have the burp tank cap on the burp tank (the cap with ears) and the radiator cap on the radiator (no ears). If you have an aftermarket cap ditch it and use the oem ones in the right places. Until you get that baseline you'll chase your tail trying to figure out the rest of it.

I have an 02 radiator, so no cap up front. I've bled this system multiple times successfully before, but maybe something is different. I ordered a new OEM turbo res cap that I'll try as well.

[Mitch Wright]

This is what I use with great success not only on the 818 but a number of other cars.
https://www.tooldiscounter.com/product/uview-airlift-cooling-system-air-bleeder-uvw550000?msclkid=b2e4efabdc3e1f8b0417b0f1ea2f265d

[Frank818]

I ordered a new T-stat. Not really sure how to check it (boil some water and make sure it opens at the right temp?)

Yes, i did that in the past on a few t-stats, seemed to work, but knowing the exact temp is trickier is you don't have a thermometer.

[Pearldrummer7]

Been a while!
Man, I could NOT get this thing to run well. Hot, sometimes misfiring, sometimes not wanting to start. Did another leak down with a friend and found 6% leak by, 12%, 7%, and 47% :(

so, pulled the freshly refreshed motor to re-refresh it. No HG leaks that I can find, probably ring/ringland? probably going to pull the trigger on an IAG Stage 1 block, bring my heads to the local Subie shop and have them check them and remachine the surface, and to save a few bucks I'll probably do my own valve job and assembly the block


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51293261205_6fb76cab2b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2m9Bnwv)
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51292254776_cd8a79e6bc_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2m9wdmh)

found some nasty **** in there. Never had this apart and bought it used, so not surprising I guess

[Wayne Presley]

Did you listen during the leak down to find out where it was passing air? Intake, exhaust or oil fill cap?

[Pearldrummer7]

Did you listen during the leak down to find out where it was passing air? Intake, exhaust or oil fill cap?

it wasn't super clear. We tried for some time. felt like more was going by oil fill tube than anywhere else by a good margin