Frank's 818R build

[wleehendrick]

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7403/16407592209_505cbd5cd7_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/qZTcwR)

Hey Frank, you also might want to consider a heatshield/insulation between your cooling pipes. With the hot and cold pipes so close, it will reduce efficiency by thermally 'short-circuiting' (It's basically a counter-flow heat exchanger... the returning coolant will get heated by the exiting hot).

818's seem to need all the thermal management they can get, especially for an R!

[Pearldrummer7]

Hey Frank, you also might want to consider a heatshield/insulation between your cooling pipes. With the hot and cold pipes so close, it will reduce efficiency by thermally 'short-circuiting' (It's basically a counter-flow heat exchanger... the returning coolant will get heated by the exiting hot).

818's seem to need all the thermal management they can get, especially for an R!

Huh. That's a really cool point. I think I'm going to wrap it with the same stuff I did my exhaust with- lava header wrap :)

I agree! Can't have too much cool! Unless you're my iron block truck in the winter :mad: that thing takes so long to warm up!

[wleehendrick]

Huh. That's a really cool point. I think I'm going to wrap it with the same stuff I did my exhaust with- lava header wrap :)

I agree! Can't have too much cool! Unless you're my iron block truck in the winter :mad: that thing takes so long to warm up!

Lave wrap would work, but is overkill... the coolant will never get the the temps that exhaust wrap is designed for. A lower temp rated insulator probably work better... and be cheaper!

[Frank818]

Man that's great it runs! Close to a real drive, now!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Lave wrap would work, but is overkill... the coolant will never get the the temps that exhaust wrap is designed for. A lower temp rated insulator probably work better... and be cheaper!

I think your would be best not to insulate the pipes. You want both pipes to dissipate heat to the atmosphere. Just don't have the pipes touching metal to metal.
Bob

[wleehendrick]

I think your would be best not to insulate the pipes. You want both pipes to dissipate heat to the atmosphere. Just don't have the pipes touching metal to metal.
Bob

No, you might get a bit of extra cooling from a bare hot pipe (how much airflow is there when the body is on anyway?), but if your radiator's working and properly sized, the cold pipe should not be that much above ambient air temp (not enough that the pipe will help). There is a very big Delta-T between the two two pipes, and you do NOT want the hot pipe to dissipate heat to the cold pipe; any heat transfer reduces the efficiency of the cooling system. Wrap the cold pipe, or just put a flat shield/insulator between them, but as is, I have concern about the returning coolant being too warm.

[Pearldrummer7]

First drive! Well, kind of second drive but whatever! It's quick, and just a little throttle sends it all over the road. Nice exhaust note, too! Time to set up an appointment at the tuner....

https://vimeo.com/122920207

[Scargo]

That's great. Get a body on it and some aero to handle all that power. :p

[Hindsight]

Congrats on the first drive!

[Pearldrummer7]

That's great. Get a body on it and some aero to handle all that power. :p


Congrats on the first drive!

Thanks guys! Couldn't have done it without the huge support from the FFR community! Hopefully prepping the truck for its first ever tow (scary...) this weekend to get it tuned! :)

[Tamra]

Congrats and good luck and the tuner! What are you hoping for?

[Pearldrummer7]

Congrats and good luck and the tuner! What are you hoping for?

Thanks! I'm hoping for smooth power delivery. I know this motor made "big power" when it was in the WRX it came out of (at one point Mikey had tuned it, actually), but that's not at all what I want for the 818. I want smoother torque than my WRX, that's for sure!


Your full spool by 3,500 rpm is more like what I'd like to see, I think.

[Pearldrummer7]

So I had a coolant leak coming from this guy:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7590/16718784188_06db23d0da.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rto94N)

Stupid thing rusted out at the throttle warmer connection. So I deleted it! Looks way cleaner and doesn't seem to leak (I did get it up to full temperature and romp on it a little bit).
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8718/16719023920_352d63ac74.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rtpnk7)

[Pearldrummer7]

Over 60* and sunny in upstate NY? Way too nice of a day to work inside!

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8800/16925674117_031f87f53e_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rMEvex)


Prepping the trailer, truck, and car with hopes that I'll be able to go tune and align suspension soon. What an exciting time! I believe the first event I'll be able to make is an autox at Cherry Valley with SCCA on May 30th. It's a day/night event, so probably 818 by day and either the WRX or a friend's Mk VII GTI by night.

[Pearldrummer7]

PHEW! Back from 2.5 weeks in Europe. Incredible trip, even drove on the Autobahn (slowly...there was traffic).


Landed late Saturday night, caught up on some sleep, and spent all day yesterday doing 'Merican things. Grilled, had some beers, and of course trailered the 818 around! Stress test on the truck. We found some nice hills, did some stops, etc.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8713/17365867545_b1994d21dd_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ssyBpp)


Truck LOVED it. Though, I am putting new brakes on it and new shocks/slightly bigger leafs. Now if only the car would leak a touch less oil....

[Pearldrummer7]

Ugh- truck ate a serpentine belt today. Had to limp her home on 2 belt ribs. Guess this weekend is all about diagnosing that issue and general car prep. Tuning is in Lake Placid at Moon Performance next Saturday and the following Saturday is my first autox! Pretty excited.

In the mean time, I made a mount for the intercooler:

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8810/17677809522_131980f8bc_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/sW8oTm)


How did everyone else mount these? I'm curious.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

How did everyone else mount these? I'm curious.
Pearldrummer,
I believe most doing a TMIC used the factory brackets to mount the intercooler to the engine block.
With a frame mounted TMIC, the engine movement it will be a strain on the IC to TB coupler.
Bob

[mikeb75]

On the drivers side I'm using the stock IC bracket. On the passenger I couldn't use the stock since, like you, I have an STI sized intercooler. I welded a tab to the crossbar, since I have nearly solid engine mounts I'm not as concerned about movement like Bob warns -but I need to verify this with testing.

[Pearldrummer7]

On the drivers side I'm using the stock IC bracket. On the passenger I couldn't use the stock since, like you, I have an STI sized intercooler. I welded a tab to the crossbar, since I have nearly solid engine mounts I'm not as concerned about movement like Bob warns -but I need to verify this with testing.


Pearldrummer,
I believe most doing a TMIC used the factory brackets to mount the intercooler to the engine block.
With a frame mounted TMIC, the engine movement it will be a strain on the IC to TB coupler.
Bob

Mike, I agree with what you were thinking. My engine mounts are very solid and the engine doesn't seem to move a ton. I was hoping the rubber grommit would be sufficient for absorbing the movement relative to frame. That said, mounting to the engine seems like a cleaner solution overall.

[Tamra]

We used the Group N mounts and there is still quite a lot of movement.

[Scargo]

Here's another thought on the intercooler mounting issue. I was at the track yesterday and a Subie guy was tracking his STi for the first time. He did a lot of things right under the hood, but he did not wrap his turbo or downpipe at all. Not even a shielding plate over the turbo. He was cooking his IC.

It seems we have the luxury of added space to play within. Because there's little or no airflow at times why not offset the intercooler where it does not get heatsoaked by the turbo? Why not tilt it more for better air flow?
What about reversing the intake and having the intercooler farther forward? I'm asking questions because I haven't mocked up any of this yet and don't know whether I'm talking out my rear or not.
On engine movement: If you have tubing long enough (how long is long enough?) then you could hard-mount the IC. Radiators are hard-mounted. My FMIC is hard-mounted

[mikeb75]

What Scargo Said! Once the hard-top becomes a reality I will be revisiting the issue of IC mounting. I plan to reposition (vertically) & duct it to take advantage of airflow & add room to keep it away from the turbo.

I actually had to trim down my IC to TB hose (because of fitment issues with the V5 intake manifold), so I have less hose-give in that area, but between having one side of the IC mounted to the engine & the other to the frame with the cushioned IC mounts; I hope it will be OK.

[Scargo]

Seems Jim Pampas is building an 818R but is off-grid as far as the 818 forum it seems. Here's a video of their startup. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-ZzYefJDko) The point is to bring to everyone's attention the intercooler mounting they are using (high and over the tranny longitudinally). Hopefully they'll get the turbo and exhaust wrapped.

[C.Plavan]

Seems Jim Pampas is building an 818R but is off-grid as far as the 818 forum it seems. Here's a video of their startup. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-ZzYefJDko) The point is to bring to everyone's attention the intercooler mounting they are using (high and over the tranny longitudinally). Hopefully they'll get the turbo and exhaust wrapped.

That is interesting to say the least. No dry sump either. I hope there is a huge oil cooler also. We do need more 818R's running on the race track, not killing cones :) . My car could do short sprints all day long. Its the 35+min of beating that is the real test.

[Pearldrummer7]

That is interesting to say the least. No dry sump either. I hope there is a huge oil cooler also. We do need more 818R's running on the race track, not killing cones :) . My car could do short sprints all day long. Its the 35+min of beating that is the real test.

Huh. Cool idea. AWIC seems cleaner to me, though.


Hopefully mine will be graduating to tracks shortly after its first cone killing session in 2 weeks. I may be at the Glen the weekend after that (if all goes according to plan).

[C.Plavan]

Huh. Cool idea. AWIC seems cleaner to me, though.


Hopefully mine will be graduating to tracks shortly after its first cone killing session in 2 weeks. I may be at the Glen the weekend after that (if all goes according to plan).

Get her done :) Once you got track, you never go back. Haha

[Pearldrummer7]

Taking her to get tuned at Moon Performance in Lake Placid, NY! So excited. I packed just about every tool I own between the truck bed and the 2 tool boxes. Hopefully all goes well this weekend.

https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7761/17792513870_7110e7a483_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/t7ghuw)

[Tamra]

Good luck!

[Tamra]

Ps just clicked to post 1 to refresh my memory of your build. Nice job on the highlights links!

[flynntuna]

I have To agree, the highlights links are a great idea!

[Pearldrummer7]

Ps just clicked to post 1 to refresh my memory of your build. Nice job on the highlights links!


I have To agree, the highlights links are a great idea!


Thanks! It's a direct result of airport bordem on a long layover (in Zurich, perhaps?).

I'm a little nervous to post dyno specs, as my WRX went 295/329 at EFI and was only putting down ~245/301 on the the dyno at Moon. But, at the end of the day it's all about the butt dyno anyway, isn't it?

[Pearldrummer7]

All aligned and tuned now!

Alignment took forever (it seemed), as I was in the car for balance purposes and had to hold the brake down the entire time. It went well, though. Here are the results:

Front:
3.5* caster
-0.5* camber
0.1* toe

Rear:
-0.5* camber
0.2* toe

drives and brakes way nicer than before (of course). I think it's probably a bit conservative on camber but we'll see how it feels at speed soon enough!

https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7734/17895828150_f6fbc9916a_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/tgoNed)

[Pearldrummer7]

As for tuning...

before tuning, Taylor recommended we replace some things. We changed out an intercooler hose, the metal turbo coolant reservoir from steel to plastic, a fuel line, changed some clamps out, and better secured a few things. He provided us all the tools (though I brought plenty in the truck) and the parts we needed. Plus, between fixing parts, alignment, and tuning it took until way late in the night and Taylor had no problem continuing to work to help us get out of there without leaving the car all week. What a guy!


It went poorly at first, as boost was dropping off. Turns out we had the EBCS plumbed slightly wrong, and even after it was spinning the wheels on the dyno, so we strapped down the rear-center of the car much better and didn't have issues. Taylor let me drive it on the dyno while he tuned (in part because it was easier for him, and partly because I really wanted to drive it on the dyno :cool: ). It made the smoothest power curve I've ever seen on a turbo Subaru.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5343/18080138102_eaf28ecd69_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/txFra1)


Only thing that we couldn't figure out is why it made such low power according to the dyno. Taylor's dyno always reads lower than some (my WRX was about 50hp lower than EFI's dyno on the same tune/hardware/similar weather), but 180hp for my motor doesn't seem right. Perhaps something with the weight he typed in for the calculation, or maybe something to do with RWD on a normally AWD dyno. Based on the motor (a hybrid EJ257/205 with forged internals at 18 psi) and the fact that it just throws you into your seat in both the 818 and the donor car it came out of, I have a hard time believing it's making less than my stock 2012 WRX motor. Either way, the car is WAY faster now and super driveable.


Extremely impressed with the smoothness of this tune and will be taking my 2012 stage 2 WRX to him to be retuned. I'm absolutely floored at how well he works, how accommodating he is, and how good his tunes turn out. That was my shameless plug for anyone in the NY region looking for a tune; Moon Performance was an amazing experience!

[Scargo]

" the metal turbo coolant reservoir from steel to plastic..." Huh? It's always been considered an upgrade to go to metal, but for durability reasons. However, I still use the stock plastic one on my track STi.

You are comparing Mustang dyno to Mustang dyno. EFI's is a Mustang. Smooth lines are usually the result of a high level of "smoothing" by the dyno's computer. It's bizarre that it didn't make more power. I would try another turbo for comparison. I can't remember what you have for exhaust and turbo. What did the tuner have to offer as why it did so poorly?

[Pearldrummer7]

" the metal turbo coolant reservoir from steel to plastic..." Huh? It's always been considered an upgrade to go to metal, but for durability reasons. However, I still use the stock plastic one on my track STi.

You are comparing Mustang dyno to Mustang dyno. EFI's is a Mustang. Smooth lines are usually the result of a high level of "smoothing" by the dyno's computer. It's bizarre that it didn't make more power. I would try another turbo for comparison. I can't remember what you have for exhaust and turbo. What did the tuner have to offer as why it did so poorly?

I'm not sure about the steel one being an upgrade. I've had 2 Subarus with the steel reservoir and one with the plastic. Both steel ones rusted out and started sweating, whereas the plastic one is good as new so far. I'm not sure, though. The tuner seemed to like the plastic ones better for that reason. Either way, this one doesn't leak which is a welcome change.


EFI's is a Mustang, but they can hardly be directly compared. As I said before, my 2012 WRX lost HP (upon checking, it lost over 60 HP) on the Moon dyno vs. the EFI dyno. I've heard "his is too high", "his is too low", but either way they aren't 1 for 1 with the same car and the same tune just a few weeks off.

On a similar note, my WRX's power looks like I drew the line with my non-dominant hand in the dark. It's extremely unsmooth in power on both EFI's and Moon's dynos. This one was the "smoothest" curve he's ever seen out of a Subaru. It might be smoothed somewhat by the dyno, of course, but it's particularly smooth for a turbo Subaru car from what I understand.


My turbo is a nearly-new VF39, and I have the AJW exhaust without a cat. I don't know why it didn't make more power on the dyno. Perhaps something is miscalibrated? I've done 0-70 mph pulls with my stage 2 2012 WRX and the car this engine came out of, and it is mind blowing how much faster it is. I don't believe the car was only making 180 hp. I think something was up with either the dyno, the setup, etc. But again, the car feels extremely fast and equally powerful. I'm not sure why the number is so low.

Just my thoughts on it. It's still very much so bothering me.

edit: maybe "flat" should be used instead of "smooth" for power.

[mikeb75]

The old steelies had paint on the inside, very bad ju-ju for coolant system.
I also know from first hand experience that the steel tank rusts and sometimes doesn't hold pressure.
Plastic is considered an upgrade for those 2 reasons -as long as you don't slam it into the chassis when the engine torque against the OEM mounts...

[Tamra]

Do you know anything about what timing was like during the pulls (ie was the tuner pulling timing for any reason?). What was the ambient temperature (and for that matter when you had your WRX tuned by EFI and Taylor, was there any drastic temperature difference between the two days)?

Did you keep your foot on the gas or were you lifting at all?

It seems strange that you had so much psi loss in the higher rpms. If you were keeping your foot down, I'd be looking for plots from other VF39s.

[Wayne Presley]

As for tuning...

It made the smoothest power curve I've ever seen on a turbo Subaru.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5343/18080138102_eaf28ecd69_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/txFra1)


Only thing that we couldn't figure out is why it made such low power according to the dyno. !


Smooth lines are usually the result of a high level of "smoothing" by the dyno's computer. It's bizarre that it didn't make more power. I would try another turbo for comparison. I can't remember what you have for exhaust and turbo. What did the tuner have to offer as why it did so poorly?




On a similar note, my WRX's power looks like I drew the line with my non-dominant hand in the dark. It's extremely unsmooth in power on both EFI's and Moon's dynos. This one was the "smoothest" curve he's ever seen out of a Subaru. It might be smoothed somewhat by the dyno, of course, but it's particularly smooth for a turbo Subaru car from what I understand.


My turbo is a nearly-new VF39, and I have the AJW exhaust without a cat. I don't know why it didn't make more power on the dyno. Perhaps something is miscalibrated? I've done 0-70 mph pulls with my stage 2 2012 WRX and the car this engine came out of, and it is mind blowing how much faster it is. I don't believe the car was only making 180 hp. I think something was up with either the dyno, the setup, etc. But again, the car feels extremely fast and equally powerful. I'm not sure why the number is so low.

Just my thoughts on it. It's still very much so bothering me.

edit: maybe "flat" should be used instead of "smooth" for power.
The smoothing he used in the Mustang software is very large (30), below is what I use on my dyno (5). It's really easy to show a nice smooth powerband when you put such a big number in. You can have him reprint the sheet with the lower as the software saves the raw numbers

http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc175/vcpinjectionpb/green%20lantern/GLfinal.jpg (http://s213.photobucket.com/user/vcpinjectionpb/media/green%20lantern/GLfinal.jpg.html)



It seems strange that you had so much psi loss in the higher rpms. If you were keeping your foot down, I'd be looking for plots from other VF39s.

It could be in the tune (BCS duty cycle tapering off) or the turbo is running out of CFM.

[Scargo]

You don't have a rat's nest stuck in your intake somewhere do you? RE, what Wayne said, VF39s are capable of 300 WHP and 20 PSI. How does that turbo run out of boost, or is it? The engine's obviously running out of something that stops the power from building and making the turbo seem to flat-line. If it's not the turbo's wastegate or the tuner's doing then it can only be a few things. Low compression. I would think you would see horrible blowby if that's the case unless it's the valves. Ring blowby usually does not count for much loss. That leaves the efficiency of the exhaust before or after the exhaust and after seems to be good since you have that beautiful AJW "downpipe". Did you stick a cat/muffler on it that could make the exhaust significantly more restrictive than before?
What did you have for cooling the intercooler this time vs when it was in the WRX? I know EFI has a big fan. There could be some loss if that got very hot and air was not blowing directly on it. Was there any air on the intercooler? Same premium fuel? Could it be bad gas? Seems if he had to dial it back because of knock he would have said something.
In the end, the difference is so great that even parasitic losses and minor inefficiencies don't explain it. Unless the tuner was having a bad day I can only imagine his dyno is way off or you still had a lot of traction loss on the dyno. Your butt dyno is relevant. However, when you are four inches off the ground in an open "go-cart" almost anything in that light chassis can seem very quick.

[Pearldrummer7]

Thanks for all the replies, guys.


Wayne, I suppose I should've said "flat" not "smooth".



I'm not sure if I have a real problem or a dyno problem. I'm thinking the most sure way to do it would be to bring the 818 to someone else's dyno and see how it fares. Like you said, Glyn: it could just be the lack of weight that makes it feel so fast to me. We did have a fan pointing at the intercooler, it was just some 93 octane gas from a Sunoco. The exhaust is uncatted so I'm pretty sure the AJW flows nicely. Low compression could absolutely be a culprit. I never did a compression test and think it's a good idea to do.

I'm thinking I either have a large problem (something like compression problems) or the dyno was reading inaccurately (which could be in dyno setup or just tire spin on the dyno).


I'm trying to balance getting this problem fixed and not being on the attack for a tuner who I think did a good job on the car and accommodated my schedule very well.

[STiPWRD]

I'm thinking the most sure way to do it would be to bring the 818 to someone else's dyno and see how it fares.
Bingo, I'd check compression first and then try another dyno.

[Pearldrummer7]

But, either way. First autox this weekend regardless of how much power I'm making :D pretty excited to see how it handles. I suppose the best case is the compression is low and this is only a tease of the power I can someday make! Thanks for helping troubleshoot the weird dyno results, all.


Tamra, I didn't mean to ignore your comment. The other VF39 charts I've looked at (though not terribly close to my engine's build) do trail off in boost like mine does. The tuner did the pull that we printed, just because I wasn't as smooth as he was haha.

[Aero STI]

Rather than go to another dyno, find a flat stretch of road and log a 3rd gear pull. Dump the data in to airboy or virtual dyno and put in the real gear ratios, weight, etc. My '06 WRX engine with TD04 running 19 PSI on 93 octane made around 240 WHP on virtual dyno.

[Pearldrummer7]

First autox! I don't yet have a roll bar mount for the GoPro so I suction cupped it to the inside (I was afraid it'd fall off outside). First run with a cold tires and it was SLOW! But oh man was it fun. This thing is going to have a huge learning curve and be a riot to drive. I co-drove it with my friend all day, then drove his 2015 GTI for the rainy night session. The car did very well and I totally felt like the prettiest girl at the prom having such a unique car. I'm in need of more seat time!!

Crappy angled video:
https://vimeo.com/129373013

[Tamra]

Awesome!! It sounds great :)

3rd gear for <1 sec though? Just run the rev limiter!

[Scargo]

Excellent. Must be a good feeling to drive it and play in it. One thing I noticed was that it looks like you could benefit from faster steering for Auto-X. Was it an unusually tight course in places?

[Pearldrummer7]

Awesome!! It sounds great :)

3rd gear for <1 sec though? Just run the rev limiter!

I didn't grab that shift any other lap haha that would be part of the learning curve!

It sounds pretty cool :)


Excellent. Must be a good feeling to drive it and play in it. One thing I noticed was that it looks like you could benefit from faster steering for Auto-X. Was it an unusually tight course in places?

It feels great! Long time coming.

It's a tight course for sure. I think the steering will feel less slow on a track, but a quicker rack would be nice for sure.

[Frank818]

Wow! Must be nice driving the car! Looks violent, I like that. :) And looks like you were very often spinning the wheels!

[Pearldrummer7]

Put the firewall in last night. Going to back-to-back autox this weekend (Cherry Valley Motorsport Park and the upstate Fairgrounds in case you plan to go to either of those!). Should be fun. Also bought a track day at NYST, and I've been told I need fenders by that time (8/28). Tamra and Andrew's quick body progress inspired me to push myself on that one!


It's amazing how much cleaner the car looks with a full firewall.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/4/3933/19050812235_ce06488403_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/v2soKV)

[Tamra]

Looking good!!

We haven't actually done the fenders yet, but hopefully they won't be too bad.

[Pearldrummer7]

Whew! One hell of a weekend.

Took the car out autoxing Saturday, and it started to rain a little. I figured I might as well squeeze in my last 2 runs before it got too wet. Well, I lost it on a tight turn (go kart track) and went nose first into some foam. It was pretty low speed (maybe 15 mph) and the foam helped ease the impact quite a bit. Didn't seem to affect anything until an hour or so later, when I started the car up again. It was running a little rough, we found a vacuum hose that popped off (presumably in the low-speed crash). It still breaks up under boost. Don't know if I have another vacuum leak I can't find or an electronic problem.

We pulled the upstream O2 sensor and it didn't change how it runs so I ordered a new OEM O2. I'm assuming that's the issue at this point, and that either something got wet and made it crap out or that it was on its way out (donor car O2 IIRC) and just happened to die at the same time I "crashed it"


Then, I did some body work on Sunday instead of autox'ing again.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/338/19255928292_fb52c14a46_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vkzEBE)
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/449/19074271090_ec1584a434_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/v4wCfW)
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/435/19074270310_dc8e1a850c_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/v4wC2u)

As you can see, I had to modify the body to fit my second pass-side coolant line. I figured this would work since I don't have doors. I'm going to put some of this (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/121/3838/=xtzfpf)on the edge with the coolant pipe. It forms to surfaces really nicely. Wish I knew about this stuff before I started the build! I can post more detailed pictures of the cutaway if anyone is curious.

[Frank818]

Well look at it positively, foam is better than concrete! :)

There's a looooot of stuff we all wish we knew before starting the build. :)
The door will finally have it's use, it will cover your coolant line. Speaking of which, you will also modify the door to accommodate? Or will you not ever use doors?

[Pearldrummer7]

Well look at it positively, foam is better than concrete! :)

There's a looooot of stuff we all wish we knew before starting the build. :)
The door will finally have it's use, it will cover your coolant line. Speaking of which, you will also modify the door to accommodate? Or will you not ever use doors?

Much better than concrete, and I learned a little about my limits of grip ;)

I will do the same notch in the door, I think. I plan to run doors. I actually don't know what anyone else did for the body when they ran both coolant lines on the "passenger" side. I just saw this solution and went for it :rolleyes:

[Pearldrummer7]

Autox'd the 818 with a friend after fixing my problem. Turns out the fuel hose from the pump to the top of the tank came loose and was intermittently delivering fuel. Quick tighten and it was all good, after removing the firewall -_-

Obligatory "this was my progress this weekend" shot
https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/292/18849256153_6c663ee6aa_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/uHDna4)

Car did great! Played with tire pressures. We were at 27/27 hot and it felt pretty good (Direzza ZII Star Spec tires). It is nice having a co driver to help keep the heat in during longer run groups.

[Pearldrummer7]

Installed the reverse lights in the couple hours I had home last night. They're pretty bright! Reverse works, turn signals do not (the LED works, but the actual turn indicator doesn't yet). I haven't even glanced at the wiring yet but I will when I have time. I vaguely remember the hazard switch being involved in the turn signal wiring. I'm sure it's not too tough to get right.

They look so damn pretty!
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/468/19499515036_419eac815c_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vH77t7)

[Pearldrummer7]

A better autox angle at MCC with FLR SCCA. My co driver spun the 818 a few times, which was funny. I'll ask her permission before posting the embarrassing runs.

https://vimeo.com/132703070

[billjr212]

Installed the reverse lights in the couple hours I had home last night. They're pretty bright! Reverse works, turn signals do not (the LED works, but the actual turn indicator doesn't yet). I haven't even glanced at the wiring yet but I will when I have time. I vaguely remember the hazard switch being involved in the turn signal wiring. I'm sure it's not too tough to get right.


The parking switch on top of the steering column is also involved. My switch actually went bad (I probably cooked it somehow during wiring) and turn signals suddenly stopped working. I had to jumper past the parking brake switch and everything works fine now (except, of course, the parking switch, which I never plan to use anyway).

[Bob_n_Cincy]

A better autox angle at MCC with FLR SCCA. My co driver spun the 818 a few times, which was funny. I'll ask her permission before posting the embarrassing runs.


Frank, nothing to be embarrassed about.
Michael and I have over 40 spins between us.
A couple of top local drivers have spun it also.
Bob

[metalmaker12]

I spun it a few times

[Pearldrummer7]

The parking switch on top of the steering column is also involved. My switch actually went bad (I probably cooked it somehow during wiring) and turn signals suddenly stopped working. I had to jumper past the parking brake switch and everything works fine now (except, of course, the parking switch, which I never plan to use anyway).

Huh, I guess I need to spend a few hours with the wiring diagram and a voltmeter. I don't think I intend to use a parking switch.


Frank, nothing to be embarrassed about.
Michael and I have over 40 spins between us.
A couple of top local drivers have spun it also.
Bob


I spun it a few times

I'm not embarrassed by it, but I thought she might be! It's an easy car to lose IMO. Either way, here's two videos of it:

https://vimeo.com/132706174

https://vimeo.com/132706210

It was her first time driving it, and she had a little bit of t-rex arms compared to mine for the steering wheel; not bad all things considered. Rest of her runs were clean... I was collecting a cone per run most of the day.

[Pearldrummer7]

Oh! I never posted this update. I had a blown fuse which stopped my parking lights from working. Turn signals work, too (albeit quickly) if you apply 12V to the hazard switch. I ditched that relay, so I've gotta come up with a solution.

Here's a butt shot, with lights, some exhaust soot, and the only decal going on the body for the (late) friend of the family who inspired me to build this thing in the first place.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/344/19489132498_7e42695543_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vGbU6Q)

[JeromeS13]

Turn signals work, too (albeit quickly) if you apply 12V to the hazard switch. I ditched that relay, so I've gotta come up with a solution.

You didn't get the FFR supplied LED flasher? It replaces your OEM flasher unit to compensate for the low-load LED lights.

[Pearldrummer7]

You didn't get the FFR supplied LED flasher? It replaces your OEM flasher unit to compensate for the low-load LED lights.

Not yet I havent. I haven't done front lights either yet. Though I intend to!!

[FFRSpec72]

You must be using an AJW exhaust. Here is what I will be using for rear vents and exhaust trim.

43559

[Pearldrummer7]

You must be using an AJW exhaust. Here is what I will be using for rear vents and exhaust trim.

43559

WOW. That looks awesome. Did you make this?

[Mechie3]

I think Vraptor Speedworks made it.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?17631-Venting-for-Rear-of-Body-Any-interest-in-this

I'm still disappointed the exhaust isn't centered when installed as is. :/

[FFRSpec72]

I think Vraptor Speedworks made it.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?17631-Venting-for-Rear-of-Body-Any-interest-in-this

I'm still disappointed the exhaust isn't centered when installed as is. :/

Correct (and agree about not being centered), been working with VRaptor and then ran into the issue on the non-centered exhaust from AJW, so after spending a few weeks figuring out that it is what it is this was the design, not exactly perfect since to make it look right have to bend the lower part of the ring to match the lip. So the install will involve cutting out 3 areas, area on left and right of the ring (just area behind the louvers) and then the middle section with the ring and area above the ring.

[C.Plavan]

Frank- How was the track day?

[Pearldrummer7]

Frank- How was the track day?

Haven't had it yet! I have a lot to do before the track day comes around (8/28), and am actually stalking both your thread Chad and Craig's for solutions ;)

[Pearldrummer7]

So, I'm trying to figure out front end/fender/hood alignment and am running into an issue.

It seems my driver side fender is further in and/or further up than my passenger side fender. At the current point, front fenders to rear fenders (or rocker panels, whatever) are good, wheel gap is good, headlight gap is pretty close, bumper is level and at an appropriate height, and the hood almost fits. However, the hood won't go down in the front due to the driver side fender. Here's a photo to illustrate:

Driver
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3721/19809368752_2b0d1933b5_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wbucby)

Pass
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/348/19809367632_cdacb4c873_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wbubRf)

And head on
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/544/19630085299_32148c2595_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vUDjsx)


I'm thinking the easiest solution is to trim down the "depth" of the hood on the pass side. This will help it sit flat. Anyone run into something like this? Any ideas or suggestions, short of starting headlight buckets over again and seeing if I can space the driver headlight a little further out?

At the end of the day, I don't care a ton about body lines being perfect. It -is- a race car, after all! ;)

[Tamra]

Your driver side fender looks like it is being held up from the headlight. We used heat to push the plastic bucket down to get the headlight to sit lower, and also had to grind the lip of the fender where it hit the headlight. These two things combined got rid of the gap between the fender tip and the bumper that I can see in your last photo, and lowered the fender. We also had to cut the tab where the tip of the fender is close the exit of the headlight on the inside, as it was sitting on top of the headlight corner and pressing the fender up. If you look in the manual, you'll see that they had to cut the last inch or so of the fender tab off as well. I would also take some measurements to make sure you are at the same place on both sides - in and out and forward and back.

[Pearldrummer7]

Your driver side fender looks like it is being held up from the headlight. We used heat to push the plastic bucket down to get the headlight to sit lower, and also had to grind the lip of the fender where it hit the headlight. These two things combined got rid of the gap between the fender tip and the bumper that I can see in your last photo, and lowered the fender. We also had to cut the tab where the tip of the fender is close the exit of the headlight on the inside, as it was sitting on top of the headlight corner and pressing the fender up. If you look in the manual, you'll see that they had to cut the last inch or so of the fender tab off as well. I would also take some measurements to make sure you are at the same place on both sides - in and out and forward and back.

Thanks for the reply, Tamra. I did now cut out that tab and trim down the fender and it's in a much better place :)

Got my low beams, high beams, and parking lights working. I assume blinkers work but I haven't toyed with them much yet.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/493/19947804651_eeb6f718a5_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/woHHmp)

Also put the door panel on, and my race mirror made by Race Mirrors at RaceMirrors.com (so much race mirror!). Shoutout to Chad for the suggestion on model; they seem really nice and have great visibility. Very lightweight as well.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/477/19916439396_2f6da63c94_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wkWXy9)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/551/19935047032_517642bd7f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wnAjXs)

[Tamra]

I love the race mirror! We'll be doing something like that soon.

Is your passenger side fender sitting up too high? Looks like there is a gap to reach the bumper.

[Pearldrummer7]

I ordered the convex, plastic(not CF because $$) mirrors. They're great. Little touchy to adjust but totally race car in both looks and weight. I wonder if I can pass inspection with these...... hm...

In that picture, it isn't fully bolted down yet. i'll take another picture today. There's a small gap on that side. But the hood fits better now :)

[STiPWRD]

Look good!

[Pearldrummer7]

Look good!

Thanks! It's a lot of working with seemingly "no progress", then all at once it's a big step. The body work isn't quite as bad as I imagined.

[C.Plavan]

I ordered the convex, plastic(not CF because $$) mirrors. They're great. Little touchy to adjust but totally race car in both looks and weight. I wonder if I can pass inspection with these...... hm...

In that picture, it isn't fully bolted down yet. i'll take another picture today. There's a small gap on that side. But the hood fits better now :)

You got a little different model mirror than mine.They look a little bigger, which is nice. I have the rectangle ones. They are very touchy, use green/blue locktite on the stems (once you get everything set). If you do not locktite them, you will eventually bump them and mess up the alignment of the stem. The mirrors themselves are easy to adjust, just the stems are a pain at first. I fold my mirrors in when the car is in the garage/trailer so I don't keep bumping them.

[Pearldrummer7]

You got a little different model mirror than mine.They look a little bigger, which is nice. I have the rectangle ones. They are very touchy, use green/blue locktite on the stems (once you get everything set). If you do not locktite them, you will eventually bump them and mess up the alignment of the stem. The mirrors themselves are easy to adjust, just the stems are a pain at first. I fold my mirrors in when the car is in the garage/trailer so I don't keep bumping them.

Yup, I like the size of them. I used blue loctite on them. Little bit of a pain to adjust but pretty nice once you get them dialed in.


Worked on my windscreen. had to hack up the mount. I also laid it on the street windshield mount and traced what I did so the next time I install one it's a little easier.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/551/20051824945_5d3be0bdbe_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wxUQXK)

Installed that and the dashboard (which also needed to be hacked up a little bit)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/263/20057152001_0a8dc3a357_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wyo9vx)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/279/20051825385_153d5d809c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wxUR6k)


Also, have been wanting to make a panel for under the dash. I want to make it out of aluminum, and install my switches and eventually circuit breakers into it, a la McLaren F1 GTR(except not as carbon fiber):
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/420/20057151581_cdce989805_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wyo9oi)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/293/19429385744_4b1ca810f1_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vAUFto)

Anyone have suggestions for either what I make as a plate (if CF is cheap enough, that'd be awesome to do instead) and mounting of it?

[Pearldrummer7]

Oh, I forgot to mention this one when I did it. I had a plastic tab on my gauge cluster break, so I made little mounts for it that I riveted to the underside of the cluster itself.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/544/20045745452_1f12f408c3_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wxnFJU)

Works pretty well, and seems robust enough.

[C.Plavan]

I should of posted this on my thread a long time ago. For any cuts around bars, this tool is invaluable.

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Instruments-833-10-Inch/dp/B000E36098/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1438006687&sr=8-2&keywords=profile+gauge

[Pearldrummer7]

I should of posted this on my thread a long time ago. For any cuts around bars, this tool is invaluable.

http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Instruments-833-10-Inch/dp/B000E36098/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1438006687&sr=8-2&keywords=profile+gauge

THAT is a cool tool. I never knew that existed.

I bet it makes nicer semi circles than my dremmel....

[FFRSpec72]

Oh, I forgot to mention this one when I did it. I had a plastic tab on my gauge cluster break, so I made little mounts for it that I riveted to the underside of the cluster itself.


So did you mount the cluster to the frame or did you mount the cluster to the plastic dash ?

[Pearldrummer7]

So did you mount the cluster to the frame or did you mount the cluster to the plastic dash ?

Something like this! (not tightened down in the photo so it looks crooked)

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/255/19460890933_4eabdd4797_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vDG9Si)

[Pearldrummer7]

Did a little more body work last night. The rear deck lid fits pretty nicely. Just need to tighten it down a bit more, but I had one of those "oh crap, I have to be at work in 6 hours" moments and called it quits for the night.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/561/20074600882_ee210d7da1_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wzVzsj)

[Flamshackle]

Did a little more body work last night. The rear deck lid fits pretty nicely. Just need to tighten it down a bit more, but I had one of those "oh crap, I have to be at work in 6 hours" moments and called it quits for the night.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/561/20074600882_ee210d7da1_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wzVzsj)

well done mate, hard yards are paying off.

[Pearldrummer7]

Just a cool shot of my car outside the house. Beautiful weather this weekend. Lots and lots of little work on the car.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/546/20259986991_e7c2d1ba07_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wSiJhx)

[Tamra]

Beautiful shot and the car looks fantastic!

[Mitch Wright]

Nice Work

[Hindsight]

Just noticed your AOS placement. Similar to mine but much lower. Does the bottom drain hose connect to the fitting between the turbo compressor and intake manifold or did you move the drain to somewhere else? Does it have a steady downward slope to it?

[Pearldrummer7]

well done mate, hard yards are paying off.


Beautiful shot and the car looks fantastic!


Nice Work

Thanks guys! It's really coming together.


Just noticed your AOS placement. Similar to mine but much lower. Does the bottom drain hose connect to the fitting between the turbo compressor and intake manifold or did you move the drain to somewhere else? Does it have a steady downward slope to it?

It has no upward slope to it. It's all down hill with a small flat section. Same location you described

[wleehendrick]

Just a cool shot of my car outside the house. Beautiful weather this weekend. Lots and lots of little work on the car.


Great shot... lighting and composition spot on.

Reminds of a song that starts: "My uncle has a country place that no one knows about"

[Pearldrummer7]

Great shot... lighting and composition spot on.

Reminds of a song that starts: "My uncle has a country place that no one knows about"

Thanks! Speaking of that song... fun fact- I have a Rush tattoo. I'm an enormous Rush fan.

The song does come to mind. Not bad for just an iPhone shot without filter!

[Pearldrummer7]

Haven't posted an update in a few weeks, so here's some little progress before my first track day on 8/28:

Saw a Ford GT at our SCCA picnic. First of all, what a beautiful car. But, more relevantly... the brake ducts on it inspired me a bit. Here's a picture of the similar ducts on a Boss 302.

http://vorshlag.smugmug.com/Product-Pictures/Brakes/i-cntTg4g/0/XL/20130628_214027-XL.jpg

Has anyone considered something like this for the 818?


Also, made/installed my second seat mount and have the second seat ready to go. Just want to wait until I have a second set of eyes on it to make sure harness angles are right. I also used Craig's method to remove the tape from the body (GooGone and some elbow grease) and it looks a million times better.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/664/20467868920_4bfdabab92_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xbFbkJ)
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5815/20033316494_50cee869eb_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wwgZ3w)

[Tamra]

Your car looks great! Are you worried at all about heat problems using the STI top mount? Have you thought about leaving the 2nd seat out for better airflow through the engine cover scoops? Or alternatively, do you have gauges so you can know ahead of time if you start to experience a problem? I know FFR had success using air to air on the R, so hopefully you will be fine.

[Pearldrummer7]

Your car looks great! Are you worried at all about heat problems using the STI top mount? Have you thought about leaving the 2nd seat out for better airflow through the engine cover scoops? Or alternatively, do you have gauges so you can know ahead of time if you start to experience a problem? I know FFR had success using air to air on the R, so hopefully you will be fine.

Thanks! Well, actually, I just got an AWIC the other day :) I wanted to just get through 1-2 track days with the AAIC, because I don't really have time to go get re tuned before them(tuner is 4+ hours each way with the truck/trailer). I was thinking AWIC was a winter project (among some other engine mods), to facilitate only 1 retune.

I will be leaving the second seat out most of the time. The first track day I plan to pay for an instructor so he gets to ride along.


I plan to grab the same thermocouples you guys bought so I can slap them on for the track day and do some monitoring. I would really have liked to make the AAIC work, so I guess I have 1-2 track days to try it and see if it's acceptable or not. I'll have IAT monitored via the ECU.... I would like some thermocouples to do a check on ambient/engine bay temps.

[C.Plavan]

I know FFR had success using air to air on the R, so hopefully you will be fine.

They really only had success in the dead of winter......

[Pearldrummer7]

They really only had success in the dead of winter......

Which is why I preemtively bought an AWIC.

[Mitch Wright]

Nice work the car looks great, have a blast at your track day.
I am using an air to air intercooler as well, it will be spring before I will know how effective my plan works.

[Frank818]

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/664/20467868920_4bfdabab92_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xbFbkJ)


Is it me or there is a small gpa on the right side of the deck lid where it meets the top right side of the bumper?

[Pearldrummer7]

Nice work the car looks great, have a blast at your track day.
I am using an air to air intercooler as well, it will be spring before I will know how effective my plan works.
Thanks, Mitch. We'll see how it goes!


Is it me or there is a small gpa on the right side of the deck lid where it meets the top right side of the bumper?

There is. I'm trying not to adjust the gap until I have the last body piece in place. I don't wanna hack anything up and then change my mine.

[FFRSpec72]

Something like this! (not tightened down in the photo so it looks crooked)

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/255/19460890933_4eabdd4797_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vDG9Si)
So I assume that you disconnect the dash wires at the harness point and not at the dash pod to remove dash? How easy are the wires to get to to disconnect and remove dash ? Doesn't the windshield mount cover up the wires, so you have to remove that first then disconnect dash pod wires and then the dash ?
So I

[billjr212]

So I assume that you disconnect the dash wires at the harness point and not at the dash pod to remove dash? How easy are the wires to get to to disconnect and remove dash ? Doesn't the windshield mount cover up the wires, so you have to remove that first then disconnect dash pod wires and then the dash ?
So I

The dash covers the wires once the gauge pod is in, not the windshield mount (unless the windshield mount on the R is dramatically further back than the S, which does not appear to be the case).

I was able to plug in the gauge pod AFTER mounting everything in place, but it was a tough reach. Removing those plugs will be harder. I assume you would have to unbolt the gauge pod from the dash, remove the dash, and then unplug the wires if you ever needed to get just the gauge pod out.

[Pearldrummer7]

So I assume that you disconnect the dash wires at the harness point and not at the dash pod to remove dash? How easy are the wires to get to to disconnect and remove dash ? Doesn't the windshield mount cover up the wires, so you have to remove that first then disconnect dash pod wires and then the dash ?
So I


The dash covers the wires once the gauge pod is in, not the windshield mount (unless the windshield mount on the R is dramatically further back than the S, which does not appear to be the case).

I was able to plug in the gauge pod AFTER mounting everything in place, but it was a tough reach. Removing those plugs will be harder. I assume you would have to unbolt the gauge pod from the dash, remove the dash, and then unplug the wires if you ever needed to get just the gauge pod out.

The dash is the issue on clearance, not the windscreen. I did what Bill did, which is plugged them in after everything was mounted. Took a few minutes and was a little bit of a pain. I think over winter I'll make a disconnect a foot or so upstream so I can easily remove the dash/cluster without reaching up there.

[Pearldrummer7]

Installed the fender liners the other night. I made an additional notch in them so I have more substantial brake line clearance.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5641/20714973760_e4da509343_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xyvE11)
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5720/20714974050_5b71279864_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xyvE61)

Rather than bend them a lot and have bad contact with the rear bumper, I made a little spacer out of some scrap material I had laying around for the rear fender liner to bumper connection. I ended up with 3 rivets, not 2, in each.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5736/20903033115_8a73348c7c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xR8vuF)

[Pearldrummer7]

Then I did some track day prep. Leaving tomorrow afternoon for the hotel and driving NYST Friday morning. Not too late if anyone else wants to get in on the track day! I believe it's $250 they day of. Should be perfect weather.

Rear bumper cutout:
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5655/20280442604_3f65a48ac1_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/wU7z2w)
HANS device installed on the helmet:
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/762/20715061718_8da48db3d3_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xyw79w)

And a second seat for an instructor. Before I go crazy and make the car faster (fuel cell, intake near passenger seat headrest, etc.), I want to mod the driver a good bit more. I could use the instruction :)

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/730/20876753196_31cce43f59_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xNNPoC)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/672/20903032465_94bb4030b0_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xR8vit)

[FFRSpec72]

Frank, have fun, be safe and hope all goes well !

[Pearldrummer7]

Frank, have fun, be safe and hope all goes well !

Thanks, Tony! I'll have some GoPro footage and some details on how it went, as well as data logs. Very excited!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Frank,
Test for wheel rub on your fenders and wheel wells.
I don't want that to spoil your track day.
Good luck.
Bob

[Pearldrummer7]

Frank,
Test for wheel rub on your fenders and wheel wells.
I don't want that to spoil your track day.
Good luck.
Bob

Thanks for the advice, Bob. I took it down the driveway and did hard braking. Didn't notice any rub. If they do rub I'll be drilling the rivets out and hopping back on track :)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Thanks for the advice, Bob. I took it down the driveway and did hard braking. Didn't notice any rub. If they do rub I'll be drilling the rivets out and hopping back on track :)

Our rubbing with street springs was happening on turn in.
Take your spring adjustment tools with you in case you need to adjust ride height.
Bob

[mikeb75]

Good luck on the maiden track day! Looking forward to your report

[Pearldrummer7]

Good luck on the maiden track day! Looking forward to your report

Thanks Mike! I'm pretty stoked myself.

[C.Plavan]

Put some rubber tubing held on with some duct tape in those rear brake line notches you made. You will be amazed how much stuff moves. You don't want anything to cut those.

I rub my tires on the top of the aluminum during hard cornering. You may have to raise them a bit more.

[Pearldrummer7]

Put some rubber tubing held on with some duct tape in those rear brake line notches you made. You will be amazed how much stuff moves. You don't want anything to cut those.

I rub my tires on the top of the aluminum during hard cornering. You may have to raise them a bit more.

Done and good to know. I feel like this first track day will bring to light lots of little issues that autox doesn't. Hopefully not including heat problems!

[Pearldrummer7]

Lunch time update- this car is incredible. Dialing it and myself in. Very nice track and awesome instruction. Included bbq lunch. Hopefully it keeps doing well for the afternoon session. This is some of the most fun I've ever had.

[Hindsight]

Nice, how are temps? This is a road race course not auto cross right?

[Tamra]

Whoo hoo!!! Looking forward to more updates and video later!!!!

[Pearldrummer7]

Nice, how are temps? This is a road race course not auto cross right?

This is a 2.1 mile road course. 20 minute sessions. ~115-120 on the straight. The car is definitely heatsoaked. Especially when I stop to pit or pick up a passenger (instructor and girlfriend haha). Oil and coolant temps are very normal. Hasn't left the range it was at in autox yet. Definitely needs more aero, more tire, more camber, and a lot more driver mod.

[Hindsight]

That's encouraging!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

This is a 2.1 mile road course. 20 minute sessions. ~115-120 on the straight. The car is definitely heatsoaked. Especially when I stop to pit or pick up a passenger (instructor and girlfriend haha). Oil and coolant temps are very normal. Hasn't left the range it was at in autox yet. Definitely needs more aero, more tire, more camber, and a lot more driver mod.

Great Job Frank
"(instructor and girlfriend haha)" I take it that she the same person.
That could make getting permission to go racing a lot easier.

Let us know what mods are next.
Bob

[Pearldrummer7]

Okay! Last quick post; next one will be big and ful of fun things. 3-3.5 hour drive home plus dinner hen unloading means it'll prolly be tomorrow, though. Shifter broke on the very last lap. Left me stuck in third. So I finished in third and loaded her on the trailer. Sounds like I have to look at that. Amazing day though. Only serious issue was a shifter cable at the very end of the day! Awesome first track day in the 818.

[mikeb75]

super awesome news! can't wait for the full report. Safe drive home!

[Pearldrummer7]

Okay, the full report!

First, here's a video. It's pretty fun. My lines got MUCH better as the day went on and my confidence in the car/knowledge of the track increased.


https://vimeo.com/137689707

The good:
The car held up extremely well, I think. Amazing track, too. Can't say enough good things about both the staff and the physical track. Perfect surface, very grippy (some patented polymer blend into the asphalt), lots of track time with good turnovers, good instruction, good bbq lunch (included). I might just buy a season pass, actually. Total track time was about 2:15, which is more seat time than I've had in it for sure. The car handles speed very well. Stable at full speed (easy 120 down the straight with no passenger), loves the corners, and really lets you know what it's doing. I took a few enthusiastic passengers (including both an instructor and my girlfriend) for rides and everyone loved it. The car got a lot of attention, too. Almost everyone there talked to me about it at one point or another, and I even had the instructors saying how much fun it was/fast it is. I definitely am not enough of a driver for it, yet. I'm sure lots of people have pictures of the car, so here is one of my favorites of the ones I've seen so far:

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/590/20987875781_a29fc0a81d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xYCmgg)


The bad:
Needs an LSD. I could tell it was only doing 1 wheel peel stuff exiting some corners. Definitely on the mod list. Also on the mod list is a tighter shifter, because I missed 4th twice (Chad knows my pain, I believe) and was not always confident on gear changes, which really distracts you from driving well. I also would like to check out the car with more aero, more camber, and much more tire. My small street tires were fine, but left a little to be desired. Also, slight fender liner rub on my driver's side lateral link. No big deal; just needs a little trim.

The broken:
On the second to last lap of the day, the cable shifter broke and left me stranded in third gear. I finished the lap and went into the pits. Inspecting the cable today, but it's the forward-backwards cable that broke; the side-to-side one still functions. My girlfriend was going to drive it (she has more track experience than I) at the end of the day but this disabled the car so we loaded and left.

[Sgt.Gator]

Nice to see another R on the track!

Was it the FFR supplied cable that broke? Did it actually break the cable or did a fitting come off/break?

Do you have data logging? I think we'd all like to see lots of temp logs.

Good stuff!

[Frank818]

The cable broke? Where did it break? I mean I know it broke on the race track, I mean which part of the cable. :)

[Hindsight]

Looks like a lot of fun! No sweat on the cable breaking I guess, since you want a slicker shifter, you'll need new cables anyway.

Glad all the temps stayed well. That is promising.

[Pearldrummer7]

Looks like a lot of fun! No sweat on the cable breaking I guess, since you want a slicker shifter, you'll need new cables anyway.

Glad all the temps stayed well. That is promising.


The cable broke? Where did it break? I mean I know it broke on the race track, I mean which part of the cable. :)

Haha, Frank I was going to say "between turns 6 and 7!".


Nice to see another R on the track!

Was it the FFR supplied cable that broke? Did it actually break the cable or did a fitting come off/break?

Do you have data logging? I think we'd all like to see lots of temp logs.

Good stuff!

This is the part that broke:

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/741/20981358452_81f011442f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xY3WTw)

This is FFR shift cable on the shifter end, not the trans end. I don't know why it broke, but I can't imagine I mounted this part incorrectly. It's a vague shifter to begin with, so I guess my upgrade is just forced a little early. Anyone have experience with other shifters? I was looking at the K-tuned one. I'm sure Wayne can chime in.

I do not have my logs. I didn't make enough room on my AP before going to the session, and don't have a way to monitor it with my tactrix other than a laptop. I was plugging into it in between sessions and looking at temps. Coolant was under 200 each session.

Thanks for the support, guys. It's really starting to come together. I have another track day in 2 weeks (well, track weekend actually. Friday-Sunday at SLMP), and plan to do a few things by then. Fix my shifter and my truck's exhaust are the biggest ones, though!

[mikeb75]

Thanks for the vid! Inspiration to keep plugging away.

Looks/Sounds like a great time at a nice track -a perfect day. Glad your shakedown only had the shifter cable issue & that everything else worked out to your satisfaction.

[Mitch Wright]

Great news on your successful track day, congratulations.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Frank,
Glad to see you had a great first track day. Michael and I are looking forward to the same.

I can think of a few reasons I've seen cable fail at that point. Not in particular order.
1. Manufacturing defect. (over crimped.)
2. To much bend at the point of breakage. (You want that joint to be as straight as possible)
3. Electrical current. (forgetting engine strap ground puts current through cable)
4. more force than the cable was designed for.
5. Lack of lubrication (manufacture defect)

if the wire strands kind of look melted at the tips. I would look at #3.
With a to sharp of bend, one stand will break or pull out. Mucking up all the others.

Bob

[Pearldrummer7]

Thanks for the vid! Inspiration to keep plugging away.

Looks/Sounds like a great time at a nice track -a perfect day. Glad your shakedown only had the shifter cable issue & that everything else worked out to your satisfaction.


Great news on your successful track day, congratulations.

Thanks guys, it means a lot to me! It's incentive for me to keep working on her, too. It's DEFINITELY worth all the late nights, frustration, and confusion.

Hey Frank,
Glad to see you had a great first track day. Michael and I are looking forward to the same.

I can think of a few reasons I've seen cable fail at that point. Not in particular order.
1. Manufacturing defect. (over crimped.)
2. To much bend at the point of breakage. (You want that joint to be as straight as possible)
3. Electrical current. (forgetting engine strap ground puts current through cable)
4. more force than the cable was designed for.
5. Lack of lubrication (manufacture defect)

if the wire strands kind of look melted at the tips. I would look at #3.
With a to sharp of bend, one stand will break or pull out. Mucking up all the others.

Bob

Bob, good suggestions. The ends are all sharp and definitely look sheared. Hopefully this rules out #3. Since it's the FFR shifter side, there's not much I can do to adjust the bend at this point. But it does look like too bend here or perhaps a manufacturing defect. I'm thinking rather than risk it (and also risk missing a shift with the vagueness of the shifter), I'll just upgrade to one with more feel. Again, definitely looks sheared here to me. The shifter felt bad for maybe ~10 laps before it broke. Perhaps one strand of cable broke before the rest of them did.

When is your and Michael's first track day, Bob?


Thanks,
Frank

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Thanks guys, it means a lot to me! It's incentive for me to keep working on her, too. It's DEFINITELY worth all the late nights, frustration, and confusion.

Bob, good suggestions. The ends are all sharp and definitely look sheared. Hopefully this rules out #3. Since it's the FFR shifter side, there's not much I can do to adjust the bend at this point. But it does look like too bend here or perhaps a manufacturing defect. I'm thinking rather than risk it (and also risk missing a shift with the vagueness of the shifter), I'll just upgrade to one with more feel. Again, definitely looks sheared here to me. The shifter felt bad for maybe ~10 laps before it broke. Perhaps one strand of cable broke before the rest of them did.

When is your and Michael's first track day, Bob?
Thanks,
Frank
We have 10 days before registration, We don't want break anything before then.
We are pretty confident about autocross as we did 72 runs last Saturday and Sunday without issues.
I would like to get a data logging system running first to monitor all the temperatures.
Bob

[Pearldrummer7]

We have 10 days before registration, We don't want break anything before then.
We are pretty confident about autocross as we did 72 runs last Saturday and Sunday without issues.
I would like to get a data logging system running first to monitor all the temperatures.
Bob

Awesome! 72 is a lot of runs for 2 autoxs (18 runs per driver per day?). After my day, I recommend checking all fluid levels between each session (gas, oil, trans fluid, coolant, at least). Data logging would be cool. So would GoPro footage ;)

Best of luck, Bob. I look forward to hearing about your first time on track with the car.

Also, for any R builders, I strongly recommend either a hoodie or at least long sleeves (it was cold in the morning) if you don't have a suit. Gloves would be nice, too. Stuff sometimes comes up and hits you while you're driving. I assume those with windshields don't have to worry about that part.

[Frank818]

It's so cool to see that even though things are breaking you are full of joy. :) That means, like you said, the car is worth the hassles so that you can drive it!

[Pearldrummer7]

It's so cool to see that even though things are breaking you are full of joy. :) That means, like you said, the car is worth the hassles so that you can drive it!

I said this as I was being pushed from the pit to the paddock and I'll say it again: if this is the only thing that broke after ~140 miles on track, I'm ecstatic. That's more than double how far I've driven it to date in a single day. And I wasn't gentle ;)

[Mitch Wright]

I have a set of FFR cables I won't be using or need (MR2 Shifter) if you need one or both to get you back on the road.

[Pearldrummer7]

I have a set of FFR cables I won't be using or need (MR2 Shifter) if you need one or both to get you back on the road.

Mitch, I sent you a message. If you're not going to use them I would love to have them (probably both as a spare in case this happens again) as I'm tracking again in less than 2 weeks. I called FFR and they want to see photos of how this failed and maybe get the cable back in. I feel like it might be a manufacturing defect. FFR's former co-op (Frank) installed the shifter with me back in the day, so even more reason to assume it was not an installation error.

[Mitch Wright]

Got your message PM me your address and I will get them out to you tomorrow.

Glad to help,

Mitch

[STiPWRD]

Frank that session looked really fun and the car looked great! Also, I'm guessing you didn't have any issues running the TMIC?

Upgrading the shifter is a great idea. I went the MR2 route with shorter cables - it's a bit cheaper than the k-tuned setup and not as plug-and-play but I think has a very similar feel.

[Pearldrummer7]

Got your message PM me your address and I will get them out to you tomorrow.

Glad to help,

Mitch
Thanks again, Mitch


Frank that session looked really fun and the car looked great! Also, I'm guessing you didn't have any issues running the TMIC?

Upgrading the shifter is a great idea. I went the MR2 route with shorter cables - it's a bit cheaper than the k-tuned setup and not as plug-and-play but I think has a very similar feel.

It did heat soak when I sat in the pits after running then went back out. I don't have the top piece on it, though. So it's allowing a lot of air to pass by.

I'm gonna go through my next track day with the stock shifter and Mitch's cables. I'll look into an upgrade either way over winter, I think. I like the MR2 route better financially.

[Frank818]

FFR's former co-op (Frank) installed the shifter with me back in the day, so even more reason to assume it was not an installation error.

Damn, there's a lot of Franks around. :)
I also have a spare set of FFR cables which I have no chance to use, but I am in Canada, which means it'd cost anyone in USA $2k for shipping instead of the usual free or 5 bucks shipping you guys get. lolll

[Pearldrummer7]

Damn, there's a lot of Franks around. :)
I also have a spare set of FFR cables which I have no chance to use, but I am in Canada, which means it'd cost anyone in USA $2k for shipping instead of the usual free or 5 bucks shipping you guys get. lolll

Haha. I was going to say...it's definitely cheaper for me to drive almost anywhere in QC than it is to ship something. Plus it'd be much faster.

So many Franks. I'm "Frank 3" to my friends. Frank 1 worked at FFR and has a 5.0 in his Nissan 240. Frank 2 is building a Honda swapped Fiero.... we all do some weird car things.

[Frank818]

And I know another Frank, at DriveShaftShop, he does the axle bars for FFR and any custom driveshaft one wants (including mines, which will cost less than expected). I don't know what he drives, though... :)

[Pearldrummer7]

And I know another Frank, at DriveShaftShop, he does the axle bars for FFR and any custom driveshaft one wants (including mines, which will cost less than expected). I don't know what he drives, though... :)

That's awesome. I'm letting him know about them, for his axles. He's had issues with the ones he custom made.

[Pearldrummer7]

Popped in my trans tunnel cover while I had my shifter taken apart. It took a tremendous amount of trimming and maneuvering. But, it's in and looks nice.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5626/20870574019_40e0f8efd9_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xNg9x6)

Also installed some anti parachute vents, Chad Plaven style. Upside down from his, though. I like them either way and this is how they ended up.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5622/20870571329_49f68ceb69_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xNg8JH)
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5809/20870571479_aa6c1d431b_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xNg8Mi)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/696/20436317173_d2840b0759_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/x8Tt76)

[Frank818]

About the bumper vents, we still don't know if they really work?

[Pearldrummer7]

About the bumper vents, we still don't know if they really work?

No, we don't. Suggestions on how to find out if they do?

They definitely do look awesome, though. And it would make sense if they functioned.

[Sgt.Gator]

No, we don't. Suggestions on how to find out if they do?

They definitely do look awesome, though. And it would make sense if they functioned.


This is how: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=111111

I bought one of these to do the testing, and of course wool tufts too.
http://www.amazon.com/Meters-PDMM01-Digital-Manometer-Measure/dp/B005FU5HFI/ref=pd_sim_469_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ZK2Y3RDM3NR0PBSRGH9&dpSrc=sims&dpST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_

[Pearldrummer7]

This is how: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=111111

I bought one of these to do the testing, and of course wool tufts too.
http://www.amazon.com/Meters-PDMM01-Digital-Manometer-Measure/dp/B005FU5HFI/ref=pd_sim_469_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ZK2Y3RDM3NR0PBSRGH9&dpSrc=sims&dpST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_

I will definitely be buying wool tufts for the next track day (3 day event at SLMP, 9/11-9/13). It gives me a lot of time to analyze and modify things, like alignment, tire pressures, and aero. Great links; thanks!

[Pearldrummer7]

Did some suspension adjustment and took care of a serious wasp infestation in the house. Man, I can't stand nature sometimes.

Also installed my E-brake handle. But it seems I don't have the piece that connects to the Factory Five provided metal cover (and originally the frame). Does anyone know what that part looks like?

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5698/20628317273_3fbe9c91a6_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xqRw3D)

[Hindsight]

Looks similar to the tunnel, but just shorter and at a sharp incline. It's also taller to fit the higher position. And it's very thick... 1/8" or 3/16", not the thinner stuff used on the tunnel.

[Pearldrummer7]

Looks similar to the tunnel, but just shorter and at a sharp incline. It's also taller to fit the higher position. And it's very thick... 1/8" or 3/16", not the thinner stuff used on the tunnel.

Actually, not the metal piece. Sorry for my phrasing. I need the piece that attaches from the cables to the metal FFR piece.

[STiPWRD]

Actually, not the metal piece. Sorry for my phrasing. I need the piece that attaches from the cables to the metal FFR piece.

Are you referring to the two metal clamp pieces that attach to the e-brake cables? Those come from the donor.
45255

[Pearldrummer7]

Are you referring to the two metal clamp pieces that attach to the e-brake cables? Those come from the donor.
45255

That's definitely them! I guess I lost mine somewhere along the way. I'll have to head to the junkyard, then.

[STiPWRD]

That's definitely them! I guess I lost mine somewhere along the way. I'll have to head to the junkyard, then.
You could probably make them by cutting and bending some steel plates

[Pearldrummer7]

You could probably make them by cutting and bending some steel plates

Might be what I have to do.

[FFRSpec72]

Do you need both the top and bottom pieces ?

[Pearldrummer7]

Also, just found this picture from the track day the other day. Cool shot.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5674/21084703159_6c27ac6892_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/y8bBEP)

[Pearldrummer7]

Do you need both the top and bottom pieces ?

It seems I don't have either piece, Tony.

[Pearldrummer7]

Here (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1vCozIuqRmEMakTY9hVdRogfgEG_B_wcDxc3_IH9EXic/edit?usp=sharing) is a link to the sharable Google Sheet of a data log. As you can see, I'm new to open source logging/tuning and clearly am not that good at it. I could see my boost on the screen, but it didn't log it. I'll have to practice in the garage sometime. Same with coolant temps.

The track:
It's a small track. When my friend and I got there, we were the only ones there. Including owner/workers. And they said we could open lap as long as we wanted if we wore helmets and spaced ourselves out. I got a lot of seat time in a small (3rd gear track, 4th on straights and 2nd in a tight section) and bumpy track. Here are some pics.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5724/21327397152_093eb3d09f_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/yuCu91)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/762/20717033783_ffc5e704b8_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/xyGdnD)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/752/21327398592_a6f24dfe4d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/yuCuyQ)

The good:
Car did well for the most part. Coolant temps stayed below 190* all day. IAT's with the STi intercooler and NO top body piece were alright until I pitted and left it running. Then they'd shoot up. IAT's were over 100* with ~75-80* ambient and direct sun most of the day. Which isn't terrible, but it's not great. Track was fun and really relaxed which gave me a chance to play with tire pressures and a little bit of suspension stuff. No huge changes, but some learning on my part.

The bad:
Had a weird breaking up section towards the end whenever it came out of a longer right turn. Maybe it was just slightly low on fuel and it sloshed over. It was the same two spots on track each of the last few laps. Not sure what was up with that. Gonna try to match up GoPro footage with data logs and see if I can make heads or tails of it. The sky is going to open up on the track the rest of the weekend so I brought the 818 all the way back home tonight and may go back tomorrow/Sunday in my DD WRX.

The broken:
Nothing, as far as I can tell. My friend drove it and promptly spun it out. My minor tire pressure/suspension adjustments made the car "too easy to spin out". I blame it on driver error ;)


Videos to come tomorrow or Sunday. Now I have to unpack the truck/trailer and then decide if I'm driving back to the (already paid for) track with my WRX in the pouring rain, or just skip it. Sigh. Weather really ruined a big testing weekend for me!

[JeromeS13]

The bad:
Had a weird breaking up section towards the end whenever it came out of a longer right turn. Maybe it was just slightly low on fuel and it sloshed over.


Sounds VERY typical of fuel starvation.

[NBinSD]

It seems I don't have either piece, Tony.

If I recall correctly those parts are only a few bucks each from subaru.

[Hindsight]

Glad you are doing what you set out to do and tearing up the track!

I agree that the issue you described sounds like fuel starvation as well. How full was your tank? To my recollection, the WRX ECU doesn't monitor fuel rail pressure, and if that's correct, you obviously can't log it. That would be the best way to go back and validate whether starvation was the issue.

[Mitch Wright]

Looks like a big Kart track but perfect for getting more time on the car. My guess would also be fuel starvation. I am encouraged by what you are seeing how your Air to Air intercooler is working with just having air pass over it.
Thanks for the report.

[Pearldrummer7]

Sounds VERY typical of fuel starvation.


Glad you are doing what you set out to do and tearing up the track!

I agree that the issue you described sounds like fuel starvation as well. How full was your tank? To my recollection, the WRX ECU doesn't monitor fuel rail pressure, and if that's correct, you obviously can't log it. That would be the best way to go back and validate whether starvation was the issue.


Looks like a big Kart track but perfect for getting more time on the car. My guess would also be fuel starvation. I am encouraged by what you are seeing how your Air to Air intercooler is working with just having air pass over it.
Thanks for the report.
Mitch- no problem. It was a big kart track. With my 4.44 final drive I was hitting the top of third on the front straight and getting into 4th on the back straight. Really cheap and very relaxed track day. Not the nicest surface, but we had the track ALL DAY Friday and it was $25 a person. Can't beat it.

I am thinking that since it went lean on those corners (I loosely matched up data with GoPro footage) it was in fact fuel starvation. What's everyone doing about that?

I'm probably going to make a second thread about this in the fuel section, but here's the trouble I'm faced with:

-Stay with '33 tank, and keep it really full to avoid fuel starvation. Cheapest solution, but way less than ideal for driving.
-Upgrade to Boyd tank. Less fuel starvation since it's taller and thinner. ~$500 cost, and possibly I can't keep my fuel pump? Still doesn't eliminate the fuel starvation issue, but probably makes it a good amount better.
-Upgrade to fuel cell. Seems like almost every cell is square so I'd have to run it where Chad does. I really want to have the 818 as a street car with a passenger seat for at least a year or two, and that'd defeat most of the purpose of having it as a street car. Also, they're expensive as hell. Probably both the safest and the most performance based option, though. Anyone know if I can get a rectangular one for behind the firewall without breaking the bank?
-Hydramat (https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/hydramat/parts/16-101). No clue how to make this work with our in tank pumps, but this would be a cheap way to possibly eliminate fuel starvation.


Any other options I'm not thinking of?

[Mitch Wright]

Tony had a fuel cell made that fits in the stock location, the price is not bad for a custom made cell.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12205-FFRSpec72-818R-Build-Seattle-WA/page4&highlight=fuel+cell

[C.Plavan]

Tony had a fuel cell made that fits in the stock location, the price is not bad for a custom made cell.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12205-FFRSpec72-818R-Build-Seattle-WA/page4&highlight=fuel+cell

The only problem for endurance racing is that it's kinda small and it is still not in a great area for safety (I cant remember the actual size). I'm not sure my 17 gallon tank will last 45/50 minutes. I should of got it bigger. The car drinks gas like crazy.

[Pearldrummer7]

Tony had a fuel cell made that fits in the stock location, the price is not bad for a custom made cell.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12205-FFRSpec72-818R-Build-Seattle-WA/page4&highlight=fuel+cell
It's just more than I want to afford right now.



The only problem for endurance racing is that it's kinda small and it is still not in a great area for safety (I cant remember the actual size). I'm not sure my 17 gallon tank will last 45/50 minutes. I should of got it bigger. The car drinks gas like crazy.

And yes, it's a little small. 16 or 17 would've been my guess for the "right" size. Maybe 22(I see that's a common size) is a better bet?


I was thinking about getting this guy:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Polished-Alloy-Aluminum-2L-Fuel-Surge-Tank-AN-fittings-mirror-polished-/201253630598

Instead of a Radium engineering one. While that'd be nice....they're EXPENSIVE. A surge tank is less work to install and more proven than a hydramat.


Hindsight, getting a new '33 or 818 tank and welding it at work is my backup plan. Pulling the tank would kinda suck, though.

[Pearldrummer7]

Ordered a Radium unit; this one (https://www.radiumauto.com/Standard-Fuel-Surge-Tanks-P515.aspx). It's only money, right?

[FFRSpec72]

Ordered a Radium unit; this one (https://www.radiumauto.com/Standard-Fuel-Surge-Tanks-P515.aspx). It's only money, right?

Let us know how it works out, but that is like a 1/3 the cost of a fuel cell, but the other 2/3 is always the hard part after you spent more $$$ than expected on the build (as we all do)

[Pearldrummer7]

Let us know how it works out, but that is like a 1/3 the cost of a fuel cell, but the other 2/3 is always the hard part after you spent more $$$ than expected on the build (as we all do)

Well. I intend to keep the fuel tank for a year or two and get this whole passenger seat thing out of my system. Then eventually a fuel cell in the passenger area. I just don't want to eat the cost of a fuel cell twice, once behind the seat and once next to me.

[longislandwrx]

radium is pure engineering porn. I also spoke to them and I'm pretty sure I'm going with:

1x 20-0132-00
1x 13-0011
1x 14-0186
1x 20-0167-01
2x 20-0176

and a handful of 6an PTFE hoses

all the runs should be neat, short and returnless.

[Wayne Presley]

You guys realize I'm a dealer for Radium?

[Pearldrummer7]

You guys realize I'm a dealer for Radium?

I didn't know that. I would've asked you for a quote for sure if I knew. I have a hookup for them. I paid $500 shipped with bracketed, hoses, and a pump.

[Pearldrummer7]

radium is pure engineering porn. I also spoke to them and I'm pretty sure I'm going with:

1x 20-0132-00
1x 13-0011
1x 14-0186
1x 20-0167-01
2x 20-0176

and a handful of 6an PTFE hoses

all the runs should be neat, short and returnless.

Jeff, why did you choose "FST-R Fuel Surge Tank with Integrated FPR" over "https://www.radiumauto.com/Standard-Fuel-Surge-Tanks-P515.aspx"? With/without regulator? Does the stock fuel pump have a regulator or something?

[longislandwrx]

Frank,

Because I am running aftermarket fuel rails and ditching the OEM regulator (Located on/near the passenger oem fuel rail) I needed an aftermarket regulator.

I was originally planning on running the same surge tank as you using their multipump regulator (using only one pump)

after speaking with radium, I decided to go with the integrated unit as it reduces the amount of hoses needed, as well as the cost slightly.

I have the room and don't think i'll ever go with redundant fuel pumps so its a good fit.

[Pearldrummer7]

Few laps around SLMP. Playing with suspension pieces and tire pressures in the quick time I had in the dry on track. Rest of the weekend was spent in the WRX in the pouring rain.


https://vimeo.com/139522671

[Pearldrummer7]

No updates for a little while, but I haven't done all that much work on it recently. I did install the Radium unit and will be testing it this weekend at NYST. I paid for both days, and it finally seems the weather will be on my side for them. Sleeping in the truck for both nights at the track.

[Pearldrummer7]

Mid day update- I'm at NYST for today and tomorrow. It's going meh. The car started right up this morning and got up to temp. Then after the driver's meeting and tech and the other sessions went, it wouldn't start. So I missed the first session. Cleaned plugs and it started up. Then went out for the second session and came in after one lap. No boost. So I found a formerly plugged nipple on the intake manifold and capped it. Third session was okay, but my mind and confidence were definitely not in it yet. Hopefully the track dries up a little (rained last night) and warms up after lunch and I can get some better lapping in.

[Tamra]

Good luck today!

[Pearldrummer7]

Good luck today!

Thanks Tamra!

The weekend at NYST went well. I had a boost leak that I couldn't find at first. It was probably better that way, because slowing down really helped my lines. Found out my intake manifold to BPV hose had a hole in it from heat (it rested close to the turbo). Simple replacement and the car was good as new. WOW it is freaking fast when it works well. Also my Radium surge tank held up very well; zero fuel starve, even when my tank was low. I absolutely love this thing on track. I rode in a few other cars...even if they're as fast, they don't compare in excitement to me. I have high hopes for the future in this car.

Had some mild heatsoak, played with suspension stuff a little, and tried to fix my line on the track. Also got to ride a friend's bike around the track- what a thrill! My parents came up for the day and rode in the 818 with me. They loved it. Such a fun car. Though it DEFINITELY handles worse with a passenger! It's too bad when they rode in it I had a boost leak. Also spun the car (after playing with rear suspension a little too much) with my dad in the car (video later). Nothing got damaged and we had a laugh.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5654/22122566231_349e890433_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/zGTWcH)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/717/21924601358_3ff0360358_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/zppj9f)

[Tamra]

Great photos - so beautiful with the fall foliage!! Glad everything went well.

[Scargo]

What a beautiful place with the fall foliage! I see it is a private track with memberships and event fees. I was wondering how it was that you were able to have people in your car (unless you have instructor status).
It's three hours away for me. Seems like it would be a good test and tune place. Easier than going all the way to Watkins Glen! I guess I'll have to call. I can't tell how they run an event.
I'm glad you are having a blast in the car. What's the longest time you were out for at a stretch? The overheating issues obviously come to mind. Was the heat-soak from sitting or a gradual buildup?
Good luck and thanks for sharing.

[Pearldrummer7]

Great photos - so beautiful with the fall foliage!! Glad everything went well.


What a beautiful place with the fall foliage! I see it is a private track with memberships and event fees. I was wondering how it was that you were able to have people in your car (unless you have instructor status).
It's three hours away for me. Seems like it would be a good test and tune place. Easier than going all the way to Watkins Glen! I guess I'll have to call. I can't tell how they run an event.
I'm glad you are having a blast in the car. What's the longest time you were out for at a stretch? The overheating issues obviously come to mind. Was the heat-soak from sitting or a gradual buildup?
Good luck and thanks for sharing.

It was absolutely beautiful there. Amazing weather, too!

Scargo, it is a private track. I paid $250 per day for this weekend. On Saturday we did 4 sessions per hour (expert and novice car, expert and novice bike). We went from 9-5 with a lunch break so 7 sessions for a total of 1:45 on track. Sunday we combined the car group since there were almost no cars so we had 20 minute sessions and the last one went way long. A total of ~2:30 on track. The other time I went here with the 818 was on a Friday where a Subaru group rented the entire track. We did 20 minute sessions and I went out for the expert ones and some of the intermediate ones towards the end of the day (when there were almost no more cars left on track). I got over 2 hours of time that day, total. And a few ride alongs with instructors.

Once they get to know you (I've been here once before with the 818), they don't mind if you take a rider as long as you're a little more careful with your lapping while they're in there. It's a very relaxed atmosphere with camping on site, really nice facilities (showers in the bathrooms, everything is clean, food served on site), and a beautiful track surface. I'm likely going to get a membership next season and frequent the track. I highly recommend you come one day next year. A great group of guys and a decent amount of seat time. Also, a very technical course (you can see my first track day here (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=209964&viewfull=1#post209964) to get a look at the track from the car. This is great for me because I'm certainly the most limiting factor in the car's lap times at the moment and it's teaching me a ton.


The overheating/heat soak happened when I did things like let the car idle for ~10 mins in direct sunlight trouble shooting boost leaks, then went onto the track. It also happened if I pitted mid session and then went back out. Besides that, airflow was fine there, likely mostly because I do NOT have the deck lid on(or whatever you call the non hinged piece over the TMIC). I know this drastically reduces aero, so I'm excited to have more grip someday in exchange for heat issues.

[Mitch Wright]

Sounds like another great day.

[Frank818]

So no oil temp issues on your end?

Nice pix! And it must be really great having a car that runs! :) Or runs fast. :)

[Pearldrummer7]

So no oil temp issues on your end?

Nice pix! And it must be really great having a car that runs! :) Or runs fast. :)

Didn't wanna rub in the oil temp thing with Chad's problems. 229 was all I hit according to the gauge. Didn't feel like it slowed down really except the heat soak thing when I idled a lot. Went away once I went down the straight.

Edit- again, I have an open top over the engine (doesn't fit with my TMIC) and it was only 55-70*ambient (in the shade, so plus sun). So it should be better now than once it's got aero completed. I wouldn't call it conclusive on my part.

[Canadian818]

Hey frank, enjoying your build. Glad your weekend went well. Had a skim through it once I realized your running the wheels I'm "trying" to buy. It seems impossible to find 17x8 or 17x8.5 wheels in the same colour as 18x9.5's. I can get the fronts in silver and gold, and the rears in flat black, bronze, and sbc. So frustrating. Waiting to hear back from a Canadian website offering them in all gold, fingers crossed!

[Frank818]

Edit- again, I have an open top over the engine (doesn't fit with my TMIC) and it was only 55-70*ambient (in the shade, so plus sun). So it should be better now than once it's got aero completed. I wouldn't call it conclusive on my part.

Yeah I agree!! Let's wait and see once it's all in place.

[Pearldrummer7]

Hey frank, enjoying your build. Glad your weekend went well. Had a skim through it once I realized your running the wheels I'm "trying" to buy. It seems impossible to find 17x8 or 17x8.5 wheels in the same colour as 18x9.5's. I can get the fronts in silver and gold, and the rears in flat black, bronze, and sbc. So frustrating. Waiting to hear back from a Canadian website offering them in all gold, fingers crossed!

Thanks! I went through Oakos Automotive who found me my wheels, as you can see....in silver and gunmetal. No one has ever even asked or pointed out that they don't match. I don't mind the color mismatch, personally. Which is a damn good thing because it seems hard to get in the same color.


Yeah I agree!! Let's wait and see once it's all in place.

I can't wait to deliver on that one, Frank! Next season will be a lot more telling, I think.

[Pearldrummer7]

The efforts for street legality started last night. Did some E-brake work, cleaned up the interior a little, and started on my windshield:

I laid the R windscreen over it so I could make similar cuts for the bars. It's probably going to wait until the weekend, though, since another set of hands would help a lot I think.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/721/22119870662_7eafc4dae2_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/zGE7Uo)
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5814/21944566648_983f3176a8_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/zraD8o)

Also, the front rivets on the windshield/screen are going to be replaced with riv nuts to help make the change between windshield and windscreen easier/faster.

As far as I see it, my list is as follows:

License plate mount
Plate light
Charcoal canister
Windshield
Wiper
E brake
Switch plate for interior switches
Rear bumper
Front deck lid
Blinkers


Missing anything obvious?

[C.Plavan]

Just make sure if you (Or anyone) drives an R on the street, wear a helmet. Those angled side bars (near your head) will kill you in a very minor collision.

[Pearldrummer7]

You're exactly right. I intend to wear a helmet and a HANS anytime I get in the car.

[tmoretta]

Connecticut reg. requires: hazard switch, factory style 3 point seat belts (no harnesses), shift pattern on knob, label on fuse box (if visible within cockpit). I don't know if N.Y. is similar.

[Tamra]

Connecticut reg. requires: hazard switch, factory style 3 point seat belts (no harnesses), shift pattern on knob, label on fuse box (if visible within cockpit). I don't know if N.Y. is similar.

Just a small correction - the seat belt rule is just that it must be FMVSS209 certified. We went through inspection with 5 points without any issues, but they wanted to see the tag. Schroth has some that are DOT legal. They never looked for our fuse box.

[Pearldrummer7]

Huh. I never thought about DOT approved harnesses. I'll give a call and see what they say. If I need to, I'll pull the second seat and buy a single Schroth just for inspection.

NY has a ton of rules but most of them I'm either exempt from or conform with, as far as I read.

[Frank818]

What are those rivets/rivnuts for on the windscreen? I don't have that.

[Pearldrummer7]

What are those rivets/rivnuts for on the windscreen? I don't have that.

Frank- What you see in the photo are nuts and bolts (1/4"-20's) that hold the windscreen to the mount. What I am talking about is how the race windscreen is held on the car. I have it rivited to the frame with 3/16's rivets. Two of them. I plan to replace them with 1/4-20's as well.

[Frank818]

Oh! The race windscreen, yeah ok I get it now. :)

[Pearldrummer7]

Windshield was a ***** to install. I had to trim everything like a hundred times. It sorts fits. 33" to the roll bar and 26.25" to the corner of the door panel. It looks and feels great.

How did you all attach the glass to the frame?

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5632/22002392220_ac7a004b30_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/zwh1E1)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5818/22190439565_0541f53e3e_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/zNTNzB)

[STiPWRD]

How did you all attach the glass to the frame?
I had a local auto glass guy professionally install mine for $150 after calling about 10 different places. Just tell them you need to install an MR2 windshield in a convertible, many places will not want to take on the liability of a non-standard glass install.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I had a local auto glass guy professionally install mine for $150 after calling about 10 different places. Just tell them you need to install an MR2 windshield in a convertible, many places will not want to take on the liability of a non-standard glass install.

+1 $175 with trim rubber

[Frank818]

I got it installed with approved glass silicone/caulking, just like it's been done on a normal car. I think it cost me $CAD90, 13 months ago. I promised the guy I'd show him the finished car in June 2015... doh!!! lollll

[Canadian818]

What pump did you get with your surge tank? Where did you mount it and how's the noise? I got excited buying parts today and picked up some parts for my surge tank including a walbro 255. I just read online that their quite loud, might take it back for a Bosch 044, they're a little quieter.

[Hindsight]

I have the Walbro 255 and can verify that it is quite loud. I can hear it over the engine.

[Pearldrummer7]

What pump did you get with your surge tank? Where did you mount it and how's the noise? I got excited buying parts today and picked up some parts for my surge tank including a walbro 255. I just read online that their quite loud, might take it back for a Bosch 044, they're a little quieter.


I have the Walbro 255 and can verify that it is quite loud. I can hear it over the engine.

I mounted the surge tank directly to the frame. It's extremely loud; I can hear it over the engine if I'm idling. However.... without a windshield, the car is pretty loud at speed. So....whatever, race car!

[Canadian818]

I mounted the surge tank directly to the frame. It's extremely loud; I can hear it over the engine if I'm idling. However.... without a windshield, the car is pretty loud at speed. So....whatever, race car!

Is your pump in the surge tank or external?

[Pearldrummer7]

Is your pump in the surge tank or external?

Mine is internal to the surge pump. I ordered this (https://www.radiumauto.com/Standard-Fuel-Surge-Tanks-P515.aspx) guy.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Mine is internal to the surge pump. I ordered this (https://www.radiumauto.com/Standard-Fuel-Surge-Tanks-P515.aspx) guy.

Frank, Am I correct in my thinking that you still have original pump in the main tank?
I was thinking that you would only need a low pressure pump in the main tank.
Bob

[Pearldrummer7]

Frank, Am I correct in my thinking that you still have original pump in the main tank?
I was thinking that you would only need a low pressure pump in the main tank.
Bob

Bob,

I've always had a Walbro 255 in my main tank. That's what my (built up) donor came with. I have one in my DD and have found them to be reliable and good for a lot of power. Not wanting to limit my power just to save some money, I got another Walbro 255 for the FST. I'm sure I could get away with a smaller pump in tank at this point.

[Pearldrummer7]

I forgot to upload this one before. Changed some alignment stuff and forgot that the car handles differently with a passenger (my dad). Got it loose on the first lap and then over corrected. Turned her around pretty quick! You can also hear how loud the fuel pump is (though it's biased since the GoPro is close to it).


https://vimeo.com/142940345

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Frank,
I've had many spins like that.
If you look at you steering wheel, You had very little steering input when it first broke loose.
Were your tires cold?
Is your car normally that loose?
Bob

[Pearldrummer7]

Frank,
I've had many spins like that.
If you look at you steering wheel, You had very little steering input when it first brook loose.
Were your tires cold?
Is your car normally that loose?
Bob

Bob,

I'm mostly blaming it on both cold tires and lots of on the fly suspension adjustments. Figured I was at the track for the last time for the year, might as well play with stuff! I found some things that worked, and some that didn't (see above for the didn't)

Car is normally pretty stable, especially through minimal steering input turns like that one

[mikeb75]

That was a real snap! It almost looked like you caught a bit of the curb, but when I looked a second time you weren't on it. Were you letting off the throttle? (trying to get my head around the car behavior since I have no MR engine experience)

I'm sure there's a funny caption between you and your dad :)

[Pearldrummer7]

Made a bumper for street legality. It's not mounted yet (paint is currently drying), we'll see what NY says.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5650/22300776689_29d691bf74_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/zYDiXP)

[Pearldrummer7]

Oh! Almost forgot!

Check out my windshield! Glass installed by First Class Auto Glass. Was Just under $100 with trim. Fantastic service, we talked cars for a while, they gave me a few cans of cleaner and a roll of their favorite glass wipes. Very good experience.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5801/22464401446_6d92c0d5d1_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Ae6VUj)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5787/21867685324_b8d7356f5f_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/zjnAZj)

Also, woke up to this on 10/18-
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/641/21869216143_672b356a06_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/zjvs3K)


Winter is coming, and fast. Jealous of all you California guys right now.

[Pearldrummer7]

Update- sounds like my bumper WILL be good by NY state :) So excited!

[Hindsight]

Congrats! I can't even imagine snow right now...... crazy seeing that pic.

[Frank818]

You will need a bumper if you drive it in snow. lolll

I can't believe you got snow before me. That's almost impossible...

[Pearldrummer7]

You will need a bumper if you drive it in snow. lolll

I can't believe you got snow before me. That's almost impossible...


Congrats! I can't even imagine snow right now...... crazy seeing that pic.

Frank- we get a LOT of snow being right on Lake Ontario. It starts in October and usually gone by mid May. Means I have a lot of time to improve the car over the winter (and lots of time to hoon around in my WRX) :)

[AgentH]

I like your build man... Kudos!

[AgentH]

is the DOT a lot more picky when it comes to inspecting a custom car?
Some of those things... bumper... glass windshield...interior switches (for what) would either get past my radar or seem unnecessary.

As a side note, why did FFR ditch the bumper from the S version? You would think that if you are going at insane speeds on a race track or going at insane speeds on a race track in some form of wheel to wheel racing, that you would want that extra protection.

[Frank818]

Means I have a lot of time to improve the car over the winter (and lots of time to hoon around in my WRX) :)

True. We have huge plans over the winter, don't we. :)
Only thing is you won't be able to test your improvements until May. loll

[Pearldrummer7]

I like your build man... Kudos!
Thanks! I apprecaite it.


is the DOT a lot more picky when it comes to inspecting a custom car?
Some of those things... bumper... glass windshield...interior switches (for what) would either get past my radar or seem unnecessary.

As a side note, why did FFR ditch the bumper from the S version? You would think that if you are going at insane speeds on a race track or going at insane speeds on a race track in some form of wheel to wheel racing, that you would want that extra protection.
Agent, the NY DMV is picky about the weirdest things. They have their rules clearly written out, and they really care about some of them to a T, and some are.....eh, whatever.

As for the bumper on the S...I didn't think it really had one in the rear? Either way, what I designed will in no way further protect me at track speeds. That's what the roll cage is for.



True. We have huge plans over the winter, don't we. :)
Only thing is you won't be able to test your improvements until May. loll

Always ;)

[Pearldrummer7]

Had to space the license plate lights to make them actually light up the outside of the plate instead of behind it. Naturally, a washer didn't fit where I drilled the holes, so I needed to hack up washers. Everything on this car takes longer than I anticipate! lol

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5644/22089428943_cbe741c7da_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/zDY6Da)
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5817/22089428513_3d60d302c4_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/zDY6vK)

Looks good, though!
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/616/22710570195_fce28a296d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/AARBi6)


Also did my third brake light (high mounted on the roll bar behind the driver's head), some troubleshooting on the blinker/hazard circuit, and some *tuning* of the car (removing engine codes).


I can't figure out one thing, though. When I turn the key to OFF, the ECU loses its retentive power. Trip odometer resets, CELs reset, so I assume learning resets. I'm sure it's from one of the pins coming from the integrated module or something like it that I deleted. However, I can't seem to find any pin that clearly is that constant 12V power to the ECU in the OEM wiring diagram. Anyone have insight to it? Maybe an ECU pinout?

[Pearldrummer7]

Tons of progress this weekend. First up, garage modification:

Added insulation so you can't see quite as much day light through the roof, and put up plastic on the ceiling. Then I added a thick plastic sheet (4mm) to drape down. The area is big enough to contain the car and still be able to work. It'll be a lot easier to heat this small confined area in the sub-0 temperatures. Also it'll be nice to not have snow getting inside the garage from the roof.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5685/22707932480_d94bd45dcd_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/AAC6cf)

Rear deck lid is on! Doesn't fit with the intercooler, so I'm plumbing the turbo directly to the intake(just for NYS inspection).
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5697/22477568287_5a90322446_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/AfgpWP)

Got my weight certificate for NYS inspection. 1,880 lbs according to their scale, with the street windshield and a small steel bumper. I'm not sure how accurate it is, and I have a feeling that's a little lighter than reality. 8,540 for the truck, trailer, car, 2 people, and a few tools. Lots of weight!
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/632/22273206384_854687d17c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/zWd1gJ)

Mounted and wired my defroster. I like my little switch panel (with hazard and OBDII port on the bottom).
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/595/22907074231_e696d21f1c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/AUdK6H)

On the agenda before my inspection:
-Windshield wiper (assembly should be here this week, courtesy Tamra/Andrew- thanks guys!)
-Charcoal canister
-Cleanup of wiring/fluid leaks
-Intake plumbing (parts on route!)
-E brake tensioning

[Tamra]

Frank,

1880lbs is very light. We were only a little below that before adding the body. How full was your fuel tank? Was that without driver? I'd be curious to see the car on quality scales at some point. Do you plan to corner balance it?

Glad we could help on the windshield wiper assembly! It's already at the post office and you should see tracking info update later today.

[Pearldrummer7]

Frank,

1880lbs is very light. We were only a little below that before adding the body. How full was your fuel tank? Was that without driver? I'd be curious to see the car on quality scales at some point. Do you plan to corner balance it?

Glad we could help on the windshield wiper assembly! It's already at the post office and you should see tracking info update later today.

This is without driver, and the fuel tank was about 1/3 full (plus the extra fuel in the Radium tank). I do plan to corner balance it once it has the aero on.

I figure the street windshield + assembly, steel rear bumper, defroster, tow straps that were just hanging off of it (since it was just unload/reload without actually driving the car), etc. are all good for ~50-70 pounds.

Awesome! Can't wait to fight with that next.

[Hindsight]

Must be because you haven't painted it yet ;)

[Pearldrummer7]

Must be because you haven't painted it yet ;)

Then maybe I won't paint it! haha

Calling Rasmus: what do you think, Mr. Lightweight? Is this scale just wrong?

[Tamra]

Our car weighed in at 1828 as a fully driving go-kart (no driver) on Longacre scales at EFI Logics. We also had the windshield, carbon canister (now removed from the car), etc. Basically, we were just missing the fiberglass panels, headlights, and tail lights.

Additional weight came from:
We had about 60lbs of fuel more than you, since our tank was close to full (estimating a full tank weighs about 90lbs)
AWIC system, which took a little over 2 gallons of water (~17lbs), plus the weight of the hoses, awic radiator, and the core (20lbs?)
I imagine your Kirkey's are a little lighter than our Sparco seats.
Our 25lb turbo :)

Combined that's around 100lbs or so of extra weight that our car has compared to yours.

How much do you think the panels, headlights, and tail lights weigh? I was thinking 200lbs, but maybe that estimate is high. We haven't weighed ours since it was completed. Now I'm curious!

[Pearldrummer7]

Our car weighed in at 1828 as a fully driving go-kart (no driver) on Longacre scales at EFI Logics. We also had the windshield, carbon canister (now removed from the car), etc. Basically, we were just missing the fiberglass panels, headlights, and tail lights.

Additional weight came from:
We had about 60lbs of fuel more than you, since our tank was close to full (estimating a full tank weighs about 90lbs)
AWIC system, which took a little over 2 gallons of water (~17lbs), plus the weight of the hoses, awic radiator, and the core (20lbs?)
I imagine your Kirkey's are a little lighter than our Sparco seats.
Our 25lb turbo :)

Combined that's around 100lbs or so of extra weight that our car has compared to yours.

How much do you think the panels, headlights, and tail lights weigh? I was thinking 200lbs, but maybe that estimate is high. We haven't weighed ours since it was completed. Now I'm curious!

I was thinking more like 120-150lbs. Fiberglass is light, right? ;) Those Kirkeys are light, for sure. I do have a little extra fuel (maybe a gallon total) with the surge tank/plumbing. Maybe when I'm down home with the 818 next (15 mins from EFI) I'll hop on the scale. Maybe the dyno, too. Just to see how it compares (though I've compared EFI to Moon's dyno with the same car before).

I'd love to see a comparative estimate. The more weight certs (or corner balances) the better!


So, street legality stuff:

I sent in my paper work today! Now to play catch-up and actually finish the car before NY calls me and says to show up for inspection.

I installed the wiper assembly (Thanks Tamra and Andrew for sending it my way!)

https://vimeo.com/145691468

Only problem...my hood doesn't fit. And not by a little. I think I'd need to extend the hood up about 6" in the back. So... back to the drawing board tonight!

All I need to complete now is the wiper assembly (no clue how I'm gonna make it fit), the e brake (cover isn't on/cables aren't tensioned), charcoal canister (considering skipping it and seeing if they let me slide), and intake plumbing for my temporary intercooler delete. It's a total whirlwind right now, but very exciting to have this BS-paperwork come to an end soon!

[Frank818]

Maybe you could try one wiper? That can fit.

[Tamra]

We had to extend ours up about 2". Did you trim the flange on the back of the hood to give them more clearance?

If you need us to send you the fiberglass pieces for cutting out the hood we'd be happy to, but I know you mentioned not wanting to chop the hood.

[Tamra]

Oh yeah, almost forgot, we are getting our car corner weighed tomorrow morning, so we will know for sure how much the panels add! They are different scales (a friend has a good quality set) but I imagine they should have similar readings.

[Pearldrummer7]

Oh yeah, almost forgot, we are getting our car corner weighed tomorrow morning, so we will know for sure how much the panels add! They are different scales (a friend has a good quality set) but I imagine they should have similar readings.

That is very exciting! I await your results!


I'll post my solution to my wiper issue soon. Gotta drive to the city (Manhattan) first. Anyone down in that area this week?

[Pearldrummer7]

As is the norm, 2/3 bolts came out fine.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/621/23117810115_9a56010e41_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BdQPx2)

Here's how they sat when I bolted the bracket "stock"
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5834/23129263121_1b2b086c19_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BeRw7D)
And here it is after some light bending and mounting it lower.
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5814/23103904702_bec41878fb_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BcBxWw)



So my hood hit my windshield without wipers (remember, I installed it with the race screen in, not the glass windshield), and it's obviously MUCH worse now. So I decided to ricer hood pop/space my hood. I brought the hood pins all the way up and was still an inch short, at least. So, I made little spacers out of some scrap steel. Of course, I had to cut the hood pins (luckily I have an extra pair) so they don't bottom out now:

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5677/22496568873_687c713365_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/AgWNa8)

Hood fits and everything clears. Just want to get some nylon spacers on the hood pin shafts to make sure the hood rests nicely and doesn't crack or anything.

[Pearldrummer7]

Also, NY wants side marker lights. Red, and always on. To that I say: FINE.

Talk about temporary. Velcro'd on, wires run through existing holes. These might fall off the car after inspection...
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5755/22495077904_5e7c9e4571_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/AgP9WL)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/735/22699434997_b915eaf226_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/AzSxbV)

Here's my intercooler delete so my stupid deck lid fits on my stupid car. I'm gonna need to decide on a solution for the long term for this car's intercooling.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/566/23104180932_8b25705ce3_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BcCY47)

[longislandwrx]

Don't worry all the cool kids are doing it.

47680

[Pearldrummer7]

47681

[Mechie3]

47681

Stand alone fuel management system. Not a bad way to drop 10 grand.

[Pearldrummer7]

Alright, wipers are done! JDM hood pop yo, blowing welds on my intake. All that good Fast and Furious stuff.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5628/23244960835_cc742bdd2e_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Bq5v1P)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/599/23244960365_1ce4de0a3d_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Bq5uSH)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/698/23218812216_92b4dca9ea_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/BnLtWy)
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/595/23244960275_2b9f7307f5_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Bq5uRa)

[508wrx]

Will that actually pass in NY?

I know in Mass it absolutely would not.

[Tamra]

It passed in CT for us, but they didn't like our hood pins of all things. They weren't "grade 8." Inspectors can be weird sometimes.

Frank, you can trim off that flange on the windshield side of your hood and drop your hood another 1" it looks like. Less restrictive airflow too if you do that.

Also, we made a little brace and put it in the center of the hood, which effectively lifted up the center a little bit for additional clearance without making the outer edges have to be so spaced. Side benefit is that we don't have a floppy hood anymore.

[Pearldrummer7]

Will that actually pass in NY?

I know in Mass it absolutely would not.

I'm not sure. I'll find out soon enough. If I have to cut up the hood on the spot and lower the hood, I will bite the bullet and do it.


It passed in CT for us, but they didn't like our hood pins of all things. They weren't "grade 8." Inspectors can be weird sometimes.

Frank, you can trim off that flange on the windshield side of your hood and drop your hood another 1" it looks like. Less restrictive airflow too if you do that.

Also, we made a little brace and put it in the center of the hood, which effectively lifted up the center a little bit for additional clearance without making the outer edges have to be so spaced. Side benefit is that we don't have a floppy hood anymore.

I have NO clue what this inspector wants. He's super strict about some things and super lenient on others. Your center hood brace is my absolute fall back plan. The hood was stable at triple digit speeds on the track, so I am not worried about further bracing it unless I really need to raise it up.

[Tamra]

The center hood brace also serves to lift the center of the hood a little, and gives you extra clearance over the wipers, without requiring any cutting. I just bolted on a piece of aluminum with some weather stripping on the edge and spaced it to where it hits the hood a little. Basically, you can take out a few of those washer spacers and make the hood less noticeably spaced up. It lets the hood arc down in the corners a bit while keeping the center elevated.

When are you going for inspection?

[Pearldrummer7]

The center hood brace also serves to lift the center of the hood a little, and gives you extra clearance over the wipers, without requiring any cutting. I just bolted on a piece of aluminum with some weather stripping on the edge and spaced it to where it hits the hood a little. Basically, you can take out a few of those washer spacers and make the hood less noticeably spaced up. It lets the hood arc down in the corners a bit while keeping the center elevated.

When are you going for inspection?

I'm going to Albany for it. And I like that idea, I just don't want to do unnecessary engineering/work on the car for something I'm going to immediately remove. Though I will, if need be, of course

[Pearldrummer7]

Sigh.

So the NYS DMV is "3 weeks behind, at least" on home made vehicle applications. Considering I had to snowblow the driveway this morning in upstate NY, 3 weeks (at least) from now might be too late. I'm considering holding off on street legality for this season and re prepping the car for the track, with street legality taking a back burner spot until either right after the spring thaw or late next season (don't want to miss any prime track time).

:( bummed

[Frank818]

Will that actually pass in NY?

I know in Mass it absolutely would not.

Actually my question would be "did you see how close to the hood the arms are?" Would the hood collapse on the arms at highway speed? 2 questions, sorry. :)

[Coolspot]

It passed in CT for us, but they didn't like our hood pins of all things. They weren't "grade 8." Inspectors can be weird sometimes.

Frank, you can trim off that flange on the windshield side of your hood and drop your hood another 1" it looks like. Less restrictive airflow too if .
Be carefull with this, panel edges are there for rigidity... If you cut it, you'll need a brace under for sure