MRG MotorSports 818S Build

[gruenwald_m16]

Builder Michael (just got my Driver's License in July)
Ultimate Father-Son Project (I kick his butt auto crossing this year)

Donor: 2004 Forester XT, It ran last weekend, took it to the scrap yard yesterday.

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818 Chassis #22
The rear one on the trailer and I'm next to my dad:
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Game Plan
Daily driver, autocross, track day car.
Wookie compatible modifications, I'm 6"2" 250#
Widest tires that will fit.
2.5L stock turbo engine with longevity tune and 5MT transmission

Status: Donor disassembled, but not cleaned up yet. Chassis powder coated intense blue over chrome.
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[Aequitas_Veritas]

I really like the color you powdercoated your frame. Did FF do that for you or was it someone else?

[Mechie3]

Someone else did it. His dad is making one of the electric ones. Pretty cool to have two in the same house!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

These are the Lower control arm bushings out of our forester.

Would it be possible for the guys building 818R to use these instead of spacers. This one would be used on the right side of an 818. If so, would someone like to trade?
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I really like the color you powdercoated your frame. Did FF do that for you or was it someone else?
A local company called Tristate Fabricators did it for me. They have been doing powder coating for my business since 1997.
They sand blasted, pressure washed, phosphate etched, and the two layers of powder.
So I don't have to bother him with every little part going forward, I got and old oven and an Eastwood kit to do them myself. I will have them do my other chassis. Color not chosen yet.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

We dropped the whole front powertrain out of the forester in one piece. Same for the rear. Spent most of the day taking the rear apart. 2 cans of PB plaster and a 6ft cheater bar.
2419924200

Interesting find. The front brake disk are bigger on the forester than the impreza.

[RM1SepEx]

Interesting find. The front brake disk are bigger on the forester than the impreza.

for towing capability perhaps?

[Mechie3]

Could be because their Impreza donor was NA and their forester is an XT model (turbo).

[RM1SepEx]

yes, I'm sure that's it, turbo ++ :-)

[flynntuna]

And the forester is some 400lbs more.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

The forester carcass was 860 lbs. at the crusher.
24387

[Bob_n_Cincy]

We are basically going to mount the shifter to the floor like in the 818R prototype.
24388

I plan on running wires up high in the tunnel on both sides of the shifter.
Bob

[Mitch Wright]

Bob, I have been planning on doing the something as FFR's 818R. I was able to polk around the car at PRI which confirmed some of the idea's I have.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Mitch,
Just take a stroll over to the museum, I'm sure there are some good idea's over there.
I was at PRI last Saturday with my son. Talked to Colby and Wayne about a lot of stuff.
If you get up toward Cincinnati, stop by.
Bob

[Mitch Wright]

Thanks Bob, I might just have to stop by to see what you are up too.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Does anyone see a problem with mounting a lot of the electronics on a plate, on top of the frame, and under the dash?
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24713&d=1388044994

Because of my wookie seating I do not have room on the rear firewall for some of the electronics.
The dash looks like it is easy to remove. I'm looking at putting a plate where I put the circle in the picture. On it I would put the relay box, fuse box, engine ECM and immobilizer module.

[wallace18]

There is plenty of room there. I mounted my radio in that area through the dash. I would make some sort of easy to remove mount though.

[Mechie3]

I'm mounting a lot of my electronics up there in that area including relays, immobilizer, body integrated unit, and other nick nacks. My fuse box doesn't reach up that high though.

[RM1SepEx]

none of my stuff can reach that area...

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Thanks Craig and Dan.
I understand the length issue. I already decided that I was going to modify wire lengths. It is good to know they are close. That way I can mount the components with the wires dangling. Than cut and reroute one component at a time with a test between each.

Talking about immobilizers, Is there a way to eliminate them without changing ECU?
Bob

[Mechie3]

Don't know. If you wanted to, you could relocate the immobiler antenna and permanently mount a chip from the key next to it under the dash. Not sure if you're just trying to save weight or get away from needing a key.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

i have the key(w/chip), immobilizer and ecu with the 04 forester XT AUTOMATIC.
I have an O5 forester XT Manual ECU but no key or immobilizer.
So my options at this point are:
1 automatic ECU with manual trans.
2 Stand Alone ECU
3 get a Manual ECU with key and immobilizer.

Does anyone have a better idea?
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Quick question about Cleco's
I'm about ready to glue on my aluminum firewall.
After applying silicon, do you put the clecos back in or do you go straight to pop rivets?
Does silicon clog up the clecos?
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

I use the clecos after applying the silicone, no problems, been doing it for years

[metalmaker12]

Don't know. If you wanted to, you could relocate the immobiler antenna and permanently mount a chip from the key next to it under the dash. Not sure if you're just trying to save weight or get away from needing a key.

I would do what Craig mentioned if I were in your boat .

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Is there any tricks or special tool to separate a Subaru engine and transmission?
Bob

[wallace18]

Is there any tricks or special tool to separate a Subaru engine and transmission?
Bob
You may have to pull the throw out bearing shaft on some models. It has a plug on the side to get it out.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

You may have to pull the throw out bearing shaft on some models. It has a plug on the side to get it out.
thanks tom
this one is an automatic.
I just watched a couple of you tube videos to get and Idea. Best suggestion so far is to support the weight at the gap and let is split open.
Bob

[Mechie3]

I've had to use a chisel and hammer on a few. Sometimes the dowel pins seize up and they dont like coming apart.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I've had to use a chisel and hammer on a few. Sometimes the dowel pins seize up and they dont like coming apart.

The 3/4" wood chisel and hammer opened a gap of 1/16"
Then a couple of screwdrivers got in the rest of the way off.
Thanks
Bob

[DAS818]

Just noticed your blue powder coated frame - very nice!!

[RM1SepEx]

Does anyone see a problem with mounting a lot of the electronics on a plate, on top of the frame, and under the dash?
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24713&d=1388044994

Because of my wookie seating I do not have room on the rear firewall for some of the electronics.
The dash looks like it is easy to remove. I'm looking at putting a plate where I put the circle in the picture. On it I would put the relay box, fuse box, engine ECM and immobilizer module.

just noticed... POWER BRAKES???

[Bob_n_Cincy]

just noticed... POWER BRAKES???
Dan
This is one of the early FFR cars. Maybe from the FFR go-kart video I was just using the picture.
No power brakes for me.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Michael and I Stopped by Turn In Concepts today to pick up our new clutch.
We are using a turbo 2.5L motor with a push style clutch.

http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/ecommerce/KSB04-HD-OFE.cfm?item_id=4261

While there, we had a conversation about Stand alone ECU's. Here is a picture of there ECU in the TIC race car.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25189&d=1389665869

The unit has a connector the matches the Subaru connector. What I really found interesting is how many wires were not used. See this picture:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25190&d=1389665995

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Just replaced my timing belt, tensioner, and water pump to get my engine ready to go in.
25317

I notice in the manual there are some timing belt guides on cars with manual transmissions.

25318

As my donor was an automatic, I need these guides. Does anybody have any of these guides, or a part number?
Thanks
Bob

[Erik W. Treves]

Are you sure you need them? THe one that I think is critical is the one over the crank pulley. Mine was a automatic and the only guide I used was that one....which I had to get. I spoke with the subi dealer and not all years used these guides.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Are you sure you need them? THe one that I think is critical is the one over the crank pulley. Mine was a automatic and the only guide I used was that one....which I had to get. I spoke with the subi dealer and not all years used these guides.

Thanks for the response Erik,
The guides are to keep the belt from jumping teeth when motor is spun backwards. In engine reverse the crank pulls up on the tensioner and the rest of the belt gets loose.
During the past year auto crossing Michael or I spun around a least 4-5 times. (I don't keep count) About half the time I stall it as I don't get the clutch in fast enough. I suspect the engine may have spun backwards durning those stalls.

I see the belt guides as cheap insurance. Does any one have some, or a part number for them?
Does it take special back side timing belt covers?
I have the one for the crank. Just looking for the one for the cam pulleys.

[JeromeS13]

13145AA010 x 3 for the guides
800406050 x 6 for the bolts

http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g11/type_12/engine/timing_belt_cover/illustration_1/

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Thanks Jerome
just what I needed.
Bob

[JeromeS13]

Thanks Jerome
just what I needed.
Bob

No problem. I love the OpposedForces website for things like that.

[Brando]

No problem. I love the OpposedForces website for things like that.

That saved me so much legwork looking for a few random missing parts. Thanks!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I'm Doing my wiring dissection.
I am going to keep the OBDII connector in this diagram.
Do I need the rest and what are they for?
26212

Bob

[Ravendas]

You'll need B75/B76 if you want to flash the ECU. You might also need B300, depends on the year.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

You'll need B75/B76 if you want to flash the ECU. You might also need B300, depends on the year.
It was an 04 forester XT
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I am doing a wire dissection not a wire diet.
Instead of pulling out all the all the unneeded wires, I am removing all the needed wires.
This is something I can do without going out in the cold garage.
A couple of pictures.
263282632926330

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I pulled out each of the sub harnesses that I need.
Wayne's Harness is looking better every day.
Bob
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=26331&d=1392681096

[Ravendas]

It was an 04 forester XT
Bob

Ok, then you just need the test connectors. No jumper block is necessary.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I thought I'd put up a couple of pictures of the 818 ICE
Bob
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[AZPete]

Please stop posting pictures of your blue frame. It makes me jealous and regretful. :-)

[Rasmus]

I admire that you're doing the wiring. Stay the course.

The site of your green table makes my forearms phantom itch. Dah!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Please stop posting pictures of your blue frame. It makes me jealous and regretful. :-)
ok, here is a picture of my 818 BEV
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[AZPete]

Thanks. I'm feeling better now and capped the vodka.

[metalmaker12]

ok, here is a picture of my 818 BEV
26415

Hey your missing a body lol

[gwarden]

ok, here is a picture of my 818 BEV
26415

Who made the seat your using?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey your missing a body lol

26459



Who made the seat your using?
That was just a temporary seat from Jegs $40
Note: That seat is only 1" from the floor and my daughter in the picture is only 5'4"
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

What is the most desirable physical location for a battery disconnect switch to meet racing rules?

In the circuit it obvious that the switch goes between the battery plus and the fuse block.
Does the main starter cable got through the switch or not?
Does the alternator main wire attach before or after the switch?

Thanks Bob

[longislandwrx]

"It shall be mounted so that it is easily accessible from the outside"

Either outside the car or right inside the body to the left of the steering wheel would be the best spot.

You want to eliminate all live circuits in the car, so severing the connection as close to the battery is what you are trying to accomplish.

to do it right, a kill switch with alternator protection is probably your best bet.

It will short out the alternator and eliminate the chance of the car continuing to run

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1464

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[Bob_n_Cincy]

"It shall be mounted so that it is easily accessible from the outside" Either outside the car or right inside the body to the left of the steering wheel would be the best spot. You want to eliminate all live circuits in the car, so severing the connection as close to the battery is what you are trying to accomplish. to do it right, a kill switch with alternator protection is probably your best bet. It will short out the alternator and eliminate the chance of the car continuing to run
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=1464
26557

Thanks LongIsland,
I'm glad I don't have to run the #2 starter wire through the switch.
I see they use and auxiliary contact to the ignition coils. This is because things like radiator fans, alternator and blower motors act as generators to hold up the 12 volts for a few seconds after power is disconnected.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I need to buy some aluminum for the rear firewall. Where do I buy a 24" x 48" sheet from?
Motor side of wall. Has somebody made a sketch for this piece?
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

I buy full 4 x 8 sheets from my local steel and other metal supplier. Check online When I ran a search 5-6 popped up in the Cincy area. They may sell sheared, partial sheets and will def. shear to any size you want for a fee

[wleehendrick]

If you don't have a local place, this week, I bought some steel and Al from:

onlinemetals.com

Great selection and they'll cut to spec. Really fast for the first shipment, still waiting on a couple pieces. They even provide cert sheets.

[AZPete]

It much easier before you drop the engine in! I bought a piece of .040 aluminum big enough for the rear firewall (17" x 50") but then could not get it in place with the enginein, so I cut it into 3 pieces. Now, I can easily remove & install any of the three with the engine in place. I'll post a photo when I get home that shows 2 panels removed as I work on wiring.

Edit: See new Rear Firewall thread in Body section.

[RM1SepEx]

Pete, my engine's been in for months... I want to do pieces, photos please... I'd love outlines...

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I'm Working on a cad drawing. I still have to measure a couple more time before I trust it's accuracy.
Bob
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=26654&d=1393781773

[AZPete]

Hey guys, we've highjacked the MRG build thread! I just added a new thread in the Body section about the rear firewall.
Okay, MRG, continue on.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

As the transmission is so exposed to the rear of the car. I decide to find a way to make it shorter.
This is my solution.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=26753&d=1394126175

The plain white box is a hole cut in the side of the transmission. The red box is a bar attached to the front of the shifter shaft.
A bellows would be added to keep oil from splashing out the hole.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=26754&d=1394126572

I am going to cut everything off at the neutral safety switch. I could go a couple of inches shorter but I have to leave enough for the shifter shaft slide bearing.

The rear of the transmission will be sealed by welding plates over exposed holes.

The green bar sticking out the side can be connected to cables or a linkage to the shifter.

Let me know if I was clear on this modification or if you have questions.
Bob

[STiPWRD]

Wow that seems like a complex modification. I'm curious to see how it will look when finished. How are you planning on sealing the bellows to the transfer case housing and attaching the bar to the shift selector shaft? I hope none of the bearings supporting the lower pinion shaft and selector shaft will be impacted by cutting the transfer case at the neutral safety switch.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Wow that seems like a complex modification. I'm curious to see how it will look when finished. How are you planning on sealing the bellows to the transfer case housing and attaching the bar to the shift selector shaft? I hope none of the bearings supporting the lower pinion shaft and selector shaft will be impacted by cutting the transfer case at the neutral safety switch.

No bearings will be affected. See this picture. all the bearing in in that section are for the center dif.
This picture also is a good shot of where the locking collar goes.
26759
Sealing the bellows to the case is not totally worked out yet. I'm looking at something like this:
26760
I will have the bar welded to the shift selector.
Up would be 5th and reverse
down would be 1st & 2nd
forward would be 1st,3rd,5th
backward would be 2nd,4th, rev.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

It will work but seems to be too complicated... there is tons of empty space in the transaxle case.

why not just shorten the shaft and modify the shifter brackets, that should leave a couple inches

the rear of the bumper should have been a couple inches longer, leaving room for a proper bumper behind the fiberglass

[Bob_n_Cincy]

It will work but seems to be too complicated... there is tons of empty space in the transaxle case.

why not just shorten the shaft and modify the shifter brackets, that should leave a couple inches

the rear of the bumper should have been a couple inches longer, leaving room for a proper bumper behind the fiberglass

I was looking at this from a racer point of view. With my set up the car can get bumped in the back and the shifter mechanism will survive. Also have 6-7" between the trans and the fiberglass leaving plenty of room for some nerf bars.

[icky]

No bearings will be affected. See this picture. all the bearing in in that section are for the center dif.
This picture also is a good shot of where the locking collar goes.
26759
Sealing the bellows to the case is not totally worked out yet. I'm looking at something like this:
26760
I will have the bar welded to the shift selector.
Up would be 5th and reverse
down would be 1st & 2nd
forward would be 1st,3rd,5th
backward would be 2nd,4th, rev.
Bob

This might be an option, too.

http://www.subarugears.com/FAQ/FAQ.html
if you read through their guide, you will need a certain center housing and one of "their plugs", or the right size freeze plug.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

This might be an option, too.

http://www.subarugears.com/FAQ/FAQ.html
if you read through their guide, you will need a certain center housing and one of "their plugs", or the right size freeze plug.

Great find ICKY
The below pictures show the locking collar installed. The second picture shows the transmission shortened to the max.
You have me debating on where to connect to the shifter shaft.
As you can see in the second picture almost 6" (eyeball measurement) could be cut off.
Bob

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=26776&d=1394262560

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=26775&d=1394262498

[Slatt]

Creating room at the back would help so many of us for so many different reasons. I enthusiastically say follow your muse on this one. And let us know what the machine costs look like. :cool:

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Does any one have an extra center diff housing laying around for me to practice on?
Or can I buy them somewhere?
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

No, this has nothing to do with my BRAKES,
As the temps got up into the high forties today. Mike wanted to go play in the mud.
See before after pictures below.
26807

after
26808

It was a very sticky mud and clay mess.
took it to the carwash, it was frozen
26812


Spent about an hour with hose and pressure washer cleaning it up.
Bob

[metalmaker12]

Does any one have an extra center diff housing laying around for me to practice on?
Or can I buy them somewhere?
Bob

Go on Nasioc, you will find one

[Mechie3]

Great find ICKY
The below pictures show the locking collar installed. The second picture shows the transmission shortened to the max.
You have me debating on where to connect to the shifter shaft.
As you can see in the second picture almost 6" (eyeball measurement) could be cut off.
Bob

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=26775&d=1394262498

Where did that piece come from? I have a transmission case with broken gears that i intended to get rebuilt but would be interested in try to replicate what you see in that photo and sharing what i find.

Edit: found the video you got those shots from.

[icky]

for those that are internet handicapped. After watching again, you can just tig all the holes with 1/8" aluminium plate.



http://youtu.be/RXEUSVSpGHg

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Where did that piece come from? I have a transmission case with broken gears that i intended to get rebuilt but would be interested in try to replicate what you see in that photo and sharing what i find.

Edit: found the video you got those shots from.
Hi Mechie3
That will definitely shorten thing by 4 or 5 inches.
I'm going to leave the case the same length as the outer tube shown in the picture. That way if you get bumped, nothing gets hurt internal.
I will attach my shifting mechanism to the other end of the shaft.
Busy right now with my wire dissection.
Bob

[Mechie3]

I like the super cut down version with the custom sleeve. They could probably cut the shaft a bit too.

[flynntuna]

Looks like a good excuse to buy a tig welder!:D

[RM1SepEx]

I may cut it off straight, shorten the shaft and make up my own shaft seal. It looks like a straight band saw cut and then fixture to the Bridgeport to flatten it out. It would require a differnt setup for the shifter cables... I'd like to have some sort of structure behind the trans, supporting the body as a "bumper" We will see, back to work after I return from the BMW meeting in Dallas this weekend. Anyone working on an 818 in the Dallas/Ft Worth area?

[Mechie3]

The screen shots bob has are actually of a trans made by someone oThee than subarugears. Its custom made for a samba. He sells a kit on a one by one basis.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I have been investigating for a long time which ECU to use.
Please help me decide.

My engine:
2004 forester xt engine EJ255
4 OEM fuel injectors, possible bigger in future
4 OEM ignition coils
DBW Drive by wire throttle
TGV, will delete
MAP Sensor
MAF Sensor
AIT sensor
EGT Sensor
PCV Sensor
2 AVCS valves on intake cam
2 cam angle sensors
knock sensor
Crank sensor
front & rear O2 sensors
fuel tank emissions control, deleted
Air conditioner control, deleted
cruise control, deleted
multi speed radiator fan control
variable speed fuel pump control
Waste gate control
TD04 turbo, probable upgrade
catted up pipe, will upgrade
catted downpipe, will upgrade

My four choices are:
Opensource - romraider
Cobb Accessport
AEM 30-6820 plug and play
Link G4+ V10
other

I did not list VCP TEC-s because I don't believe it has all the features to run this engine.

I don't need a plug and play as wiring changes are acceptable.

Please give me your opinion one which you would use on an 818S autocross / track day car.
Thanks In Advance, Bob

[JeromeS13]

I'll always vote for the Cobb Accessport.

[Xusia]

Hey Bob,

I recall some knowledgeable, professional tuners saying that nothing will run the engine as well as the stock ECU. Considering you can completely change the ROM on the stock ECU (I'm planning on using Carberry), it seems the really obvious choice. The only real downside, in fact, is having to diet the harness.

EDIT: RomRaider and Cobb AccessPort aren't really ECUs. They work with the stock ECU. Both work well and have their plusses and minuses. In addition, as I mention above, you can go custom ROM and get a LOT of additional functions.

[metalmaker12]

Stock ecu with an open source tune is always the best solution on a subaru because they work very reliably. There may be other fancy options on the aftermarket world, but I have never seen a oem ecu act up like some aftermarket ones.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

The first donor I bought we are going to keep as a daily driver for Michael.
27043
The carpet was worn out. So we took the carpet out of our second donor to fix this car.
Turns out the Michael is extremely allergic to the dog dander carpet that his eyes are swelling shut while driving this car. I tried shampooing but no help.
Does someone have a decent black carpet out of a 06-07 donor they would part with for a reasonable price.
Thanks
Bob and Mike

[drdracing]

Hi guys, My donor was an 06 WRX wagon. Let me check my parts stash and see if I can find it. If I find it and it works for you, it is yours for the cost of shipping. Rick(Drd Racing)

[RM1SepEx]

I'm going Cobb for my 05 WRX donor build

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hi guys, My donor was an 06 WRX wagon. Let me check my parts stash and see if I can find it. If I find it and it works for you, it is yours for the cost of shipping. Rick(Drd Racing)
Hi Rick,
Any luck finding that carpet. PM sent.
Bob

[Canadian818]

Hey bob, I have carpet and mats from an 07 sedan. They're like new, the entire interior was. It yours for a hard copy of your first book plus shipping :)

And as for ECU, I agree on the Tec not being ideal for a subaru. After some research I decided on AEM. Their new ecu is quite impressive hardware and will run everything you need. Wayne is also a dealer, I case you didn't want to make a harness...but something tells me your not afraid of wiring. :p

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey bob, I have carpet and mats from an 07 sedan. They're like new, the entire interior was. It yours for a hard copy of your first book plus shipping :)

And as for ECU, I agree on the Tec not being ideal for a subaru. After some research I decided on AEM. Their new ecu is quite impressive hardware and will run everything you need. Wayne is also a dealer, I case you didn't want to make a harness...but something tells me your not afraid of wiring. :p

Hi Canadian818,
Misunderstanding, I should clear up.
I said "this was my first book 20 years ago"
I should have said "this was the first book I read when I got involved in electric vehicles"
I see how that could of been misleading. Sorry.
With last 20 years of experience I could write that book today.
You are welcome to my paperback copy.

I will PM you about the carpet.

The AEM 30-6820 is a nice plug an play unit that will run everything on my engine. That was very high on my option list.
It looks like AEM took this unit off there website recently, I guess it obsolete.
I don't know much about the Infinity systems.
Bob

[Canadian818]

Hi Canadian818,
Misunderstanding, I should clear up.
I said "this was my first book 20 years ago"
I should have said "this was the first book I read when I got involved in electric vehicles"
I see how that could of been misleading. Sorry.
With last 20 years of experience I could write that book today.
You are welcome to my paperback copy.

I will PM you about the carpet.

The AEM 30-6820 is a nice plug an play unit that will run everything on my engine. That was very high on my option list.
It looks like AEM took this unit off there website recently, I guess it obsolete.
I don't know much about the Infinity systems.
Bob

Haha, if I'm not mistaken the author was a "Bob" so I assumed. Do some reading on the infinity, impressive stuff IMO.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Most people are using the Wire Diet method where they start with the whole wire harness and remove what they don't need.
That's best way for most.

I decided to go the wire dissection method, where I would cut out only the parts a wanted.
See results.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27496&d=1396320556

Then after long hours of study on best routing and location I redrew the schematic.
Then I designed a waterproof ECU Panel.
See results;

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27497&d=1396320799

That panel mounts in the firewall right in front of the motor (on the motor side).
Most of the cables plug into the motor. The cable on the far left goes to the dash, pedal, fuse box.
The top right cable goes to the starter, speed sensor, and neutral safety switch.
I will use a traditional wire method for all the light, horn & starter.
The relay on the left is the main relay and the other one is for the electronic throttle.
The engine ECU will control the dash, fuel pump and radiator fans ,
This CPU and wiring supports newer stuff like AVCS, DBW, and 4 coils.
OBDII port will be under the dash.
This panel will be covered by a blank triangle on the cockpit side to seal it shut.

The next picture is the engine side of the ECU box.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27498&d=1396321396

One of my design rules was not to have any junctions in the harness. The Subaru harness is loaded with them. I used the 6 pole stud type terminal blocks instead.
Let me know if you have any questions.

[flynntuna]

Questions? Where do I start. How about, can we draft you to put together a short video and / or detailed manual with pictures detailing your process?

[JeromeS13]

That looks amazing! I'm completely jealous and embarassed of my harness diet...

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Questions? Where do I start. How about, can we draft you to put together a short video and / or detailed manual with pictures detailing your process?
Starting at the ECU connectors, I would follow each wire to each connector and/or device labeling it with the ECU pin number along the way. (example: "C14" is my engine coolant temp sensor)

Then, at the engine connectors most pins should have labels.
There will be a few that don't (example: oil pressure switch) I labeled this "OPS" and labeled it all the way to the dash cluster.

Once all is labeled at a device, you can cut the device out keeping as long pigtails as possible. you should end up with something similar to my first picture above.

Figure the distance you want for each run. (Example: ECU to E2 engine connector) Then splice like labeled wires at that distance.

This is the basic explanation of what I did.
When I retire from my real job, I'll make a video.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

That looks amazing! I'm completely jealous and embarassed of my harness diet...
Thanks Jerome,
I had to do something while it was to cold to work on the car.
Bob

Edit: I've designed 100s of electrical panels in my life. This was the first one I built.

[JeromeS13]

Thanks Jerome,
I had to do something while it was to cold to work on the car.
Bob

Edit: I've designed 100s of electrical panels in my life. This was the first one I built.

Maybe I'll do that this summer, when it's too hot to drive a roadster? :-D

[Aero STI]

Thanks Jerome,
I had to do something while it was to cold to work on the car.
Bob

Edit: I've designed 100s of electrical panels in my life. This was the first one I built.

Impressive wire diet. Good work.

Standalone engine management on the Subaru engines for super high power setups (700+ whp) make sense to me, but the factory ECU is proven to reliably support very high power levels when tuned with Cobb or Open Source. A bit of work like Bob did makes for a very nice plug and play setup.

[AZPete]

Incredible. I thought I was doing okay on my wire diet because I had labeled all the ends - well, almost all - but now I feel like an everyday idiot. :confused:

[RM1SepEx]

Pete,

Everyone has their strengths... I prefer the mechanical stuff.

My wires are a mess! BUT it does run and drive...:rolleyes:

[Doowop]

awesome job bob!!!
what did you use on the wires? looks like a black mesh? Thanks

[Bob_n_Cincy]

awesome job bob!!!
what did you use on the wires? looks like a black mesh? Thanks

Thanks Everybody
The sleeving is from McMaster

http://www.mcmaster.com/#1459t23/=rcr8gk

The rubber elbow are of a 98 Mercedes air breather

http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/pcv-valve-system-breather-hose-elbow.html?3593=60047

Terminal blocks from waytek
http://www.waytekwire.com/item/47216/JUNCTION-BLOCKS-STUD-TYPE/

Wire tray from cabletiesandmore

http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/american/catalog/open-slot-duct-33mm-33mm-pieces-p-748.php

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Pete,

Everyone has their strengths... I prefer the mechanical stuff.

My wires are a mess! BUT it does run and drive...:rolleyes:

Dan, you are exactly correct.
I can do this electrical stuff with my eyes closed.

I am amazed when I see the engines that look like new.
I bought this "no paint" car because I am the worst bodywork guy you will ever meet.

I would trade 5 wire diets for a nice paint job.

Bob

[Doowop]

thanks Bob, I first found the vinyl expandable braided sleeves that is supposed to fit over the plugs, but the wrap around is even better. does it wrap well? when you bend the harness, does it have a tendency to want to open, or does it stay together pretty well?
Also, seems you seems to be very familiar with electrical stuff, have you ever used Amalgamating electrical tape? I was thinking it could be a good option for the wiring harness also.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

thanks Bob, I first found the vinyl expandable braided sleeves that is supposed to fit over the plugs, but the wrap around is even better. does it wrap well? when you bend the harness, does it have a tendency to want to open, or does it stay together pretty well?
Also, seems you seems to be very familiar with electrical stuff, have you ever used Amalgamating electrical tape? I was thinking it could be a good option for the wiring harness also.

The sleeve I used has the same melting point as the wire insulation. I would not use it on spark plug wires.
It wrapped very well and seems like it will stay well.
The OEM harness had some gooey tape in it. I used no electrical tape on any of my connections.
Every splice and terminal was done with 3M 3:1 adhesive lined heat shrink tubing.


http://www.waytekwire.com/datasheet/22013.pdf

I did try some laser printed wire tags that did not work out very well.
27516

Bob

[RM1SepEx]

Dan, you are exactly correct.
I can do this electrical stuff with my eyes closed.

I am amazed when I see the engines that look like new.
I bought this "no paint" car because I am the worst bodywork guy you will ever meet.

I would trade 5 wire diets for a nice paint job.

Bob

I'm a Mechanical Engineer but my whole life is one big mechanical and physical or even people process design and evaluation... I live for mechanical stuff at a "general" level

I used to work at a semiconductor company, My best friend designed machines from scratch to do things that no one had done before. (on a table with a drafting machine...) Our machine shop made them, we had a guy that did wiring so damn pretty with little labels that were plastic letters and numbers that slid on the wires. He bundled wires and melted off the end with the cigarette that seemed to be always on his lips! (Imagine a workplace like that today, 30 years later!) I installed the machines and made them work. Working back and forth with the designer and the shop to rework the machine components. I then had to develop a process, operation and maint instructions and train maint and operators. The machines had to run around the clock and provide process uptime and assy yield goals. (99.99% yield) It would take a year or more to do a machine and process working on 4-5 at a time.

I HATE WIRING! I'm severely color blind and haven't felt my hands, arms and anything below the chest for 23 years... I know my limitations! :rolleyes:

I love seeing all the custom work like Wayne and Erik do and Craig's machine work. I have friends that do custom turbo installations and the tuning software stuff and it's amazing, I went the Cobb route, I just want it to be reliable and work, I have no time or energy to squeeze out that last few HP. Your wire harness work is right up there. My car will be more vanilla, functional, it's intended to fill a bucket list item that I've had since college and even with 230-240 RWH will have driving capabilities far beyond my driving skills. Tho right now my DD2 shifter kart does "stretch" those skills quite a bit!

The skill level in a wide variety of areas on the forum is remarkable. Thanks to many of them my car will be done by summer.

[DMC7492]

Hi Bob you do very nice work on your engine management system. I am also using the factory harness and ECU,I am wondering how you eliminated connectors B200/F74 Blue, and the B100/F2 Black?
It looks like you might have put new pins into the engine connector F60 and F 61 Brown and Black. Or are there butt connectors hidden in the grey tray?
I would like to find the correct terminals to go straight from the ECU white connectors to the brown and black engine connectors with NO splices in the run, does any body know where we can source these pins?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I'm a Mechanical Engineer but my whole life is one big mechanical and physical or even people process design and evaluation... I live for mechanical stuff at a "general" level

I used to work at a semiconductor company, My best friend designed machines from scratch to do things that no one had done before. (on a table with a drafting machine...) Our machine shop made them, we had a guy that did wiring so damn pretty with little labels that were plastic letters and numbers that slid on the wires. He bundled wires and melted off the end with the cigarette that seemed to be always on his lips! (Imagine a workplace like that today, 30 years later!) I installed the machines and made them work. Working back and forth with the designer and the shop to rework the machine components. I then had to develop a process, operation and maint instructions and train maint and operators. .

Hi Dan
I can relate to everything you said.

This was the first 5 (1985) years of my career. I was start-up, training, maintenance manuals for factory automation.
Then worked the next 5 as an engineer designing/developing the equipment.

The next 10 best years of my career was working for a motor controller company. I got to spend all day everyday helping other start up machines in every industry. I miss that job.



I HATE WIRING! I'm severely color blind and haven't felt my hands, arms and anything below the chest for 23 years... I know my limitations! :rolleyes: .

I hate SANDING. Oh, And I can't solder, I have tremors in my hands.



I love seeing all the custom work like Wayne and Erik do and Craig's machine work. .

I totally agree.



I have friends that do custom turbo installations and the tuning software stuff and it's amazing, I went the Cobb route, I just want it to be reliable and work, I have no time or energy to squeeze out that last few HP. Your wire harness work is right up there. My car will be more vanilla, functional, it's intended to fill a bucket list item that I've had since college and even with 230-240 RWH will have driving capabilities far beyond my driving skills. Tho right now my DD2 shifter kart does "stretch" those skills quite a bit! .

My Bucket list says "build and electric super car"

Going gas on one of the cars, I wanted to go NA. My son wants the turbo.
The EV is mine and the turbo is his.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Here is a 3d model of my ECU panel.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27585&d=1396507961

[RM1SepEx]

Bob, I built my (dream list) electric reverse trike. I lost some interest, my son and I built it from the ground up. His senior project body wasn't to my liking and now its parked. I'll get back to it!

Your electric work experience and electric derive exp. from the work projects for the docks etc... puts you in a great place.

my only other original "dream list" after the sports car is a personal submarine (think, Bond, The living Daylights). That one isn't going to happen!

Your son's car will be sweet, great working together, isn't it!

[Mechie3]

That panel puts ours to shame!!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hi Bob you do very nice work on your engine management system. I am also using the factory harness and ECU,I am wondering how you eliminated connectors B200/F74 Blue, and the B100/F2 Black?
It looks like you might have put new pins into the engine connector F60 and F 61 Brown and Black. Or are there butt connectors hidden in the grey tray?
I would like to find the correct terminals to go straight from the ECU white connectors to the brown and black engine connectors with NO splices in the run, does any body know where we can source these pins?

I did not remove any pins on any connectors.
I cut out B200/F74 Blue, and the B100/F2 Black right at those connectors.
Mounted the ECU on the plate and routed the wires out the appropriate holes.
Cut the wires to the appropriate length and then I butt spliced the engine connectors to the ECU wires under the sleeving.
On the shielded wires, the splice in close to the engine connector to maintain the shield.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

That panel puts ours to shame!!
Thanks Craig
I think we can say the say about your mechanical/machine work.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

Bob, what about your automatic donor vs manual gearbox CPU issue? same pin outs?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, what about your automatic donor vs manual gearbox CPU issue? same pin outs?

98% the same. All the wires from the ECU to the TCM (deleted) are not connected to anything. I still have to ground one ECU pin to the to tell it that it's a manual and add one for the clutch input. Then I will have to flash a manual map into the ECU.
Brian at IWIRE gave me good info on getting pins out of the ECU connectors. Just have not got to it yet.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I just measured my ground clearance on my exhaust.
This is what my 04 FXT exhaust looks like:
27748

The exhaust bottom is about 1/2" above the cockpit frame. It is about 1" below the engine compartment frame.

I would like to go to some better flowing equal length headers that don't hang any lower.
Does anybody have a suggestion without breaking the bank?

These are of my 06 NA donor:
27749
I like the flow and the equal length but they don't fit on a DOHC engine.
Thanks
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I have been very busy the last month working on another vehicle project.
Time to get back on the 818s ice.
I test fit my ECU panel in the car and checked cable lengths.
Bob

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=28276&d=1398406853

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Spent both days this weekend autocrossing in my original donor.
28983
My Impreza looks huge compared to the two Miatas. I need to get done with the 818s.
Bob

[svanlare]

I've just caught up reading your whole build thread and I'm definitely going to do my best to end up a with a similar setup for the wiring. VERY nice job.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

This is one of my other Projects
http://ultimatemotorcycling.com/lightning-motorcycles-ls-218-debut-quail-motorcycle-gathering/

29076
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

organized my axles to figure out what I had to work with.
All eight of my outer cv joints are installed in the cars.
Starting left to right.
Two 06 impreza rear axles with inner joints (not needed)
Two 04 forester rear axles with inner joints (not needed)
Four FFR axles (needed)
Two 04 forester front axles (not needed)
Two 04 forester front tripod inner CV joints (needed)
I believe these are aftermarket at they are not Subaru green.
The spline on the tripod does fit the FFR axles.
Two 06 impreza front tripod inner CV joints (needed)
Two 06 impreza front axles (not needed)
Now to start reassembling with the FFR axles.
Bob
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=29458&d=1401150521

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Mounted the rear suspension today. I used all adjustable arms (5 per wheel). Does anybody have the center to center distance for each of the links?
Thanks
Bob

[Erik W. Treves]

I don't know about a belly pan, but don't forget to install a parking brake :D

[Frank818]

Besides the repair costs and the people who forgot to tie the car on platform (ebrake is one thing but it needs more), there looks to be a hump on the belly pan between the 2 front wheels. What's its use?

[MrDude_1]

Besides the repair costs and the people who forgot to tie the car on platform (ebrake is one thing but it needs more), there looks to be a hump on the belly pan between the 2 front wheels. What's its use?
skid plate. its lower there because the car needs the clearance. When jumping the rally car at speed, it does slam the ground.

[Frank818]

Oh yeah that's true, I forgot about that. Useless on my 818. :)

[MrDude_1]

Oh yeah that's true, I forgot about that. Useless on my 818. :)

If you do decide to jump the 818, Please take video. :)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

As I am designing a front mounted fuel tank. I am considering using the OEM fuel pump assembly.
I have two donor pumps.
The one on the left is out of a 06 NA 2.5 impreza.
The one on the right is out of a 04 forester XT 2.5 turbo.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=30540&d=1403661286

Here is a comparison:
Length is same, perfect for 11" deep tank.
Fuel filter sock. Bigger on turbo
Fuel pump: same physical size
Fuel Temperature sensor: same
Fuel level sensor: slightly different
Fuel filter: NA in tank Turbo on firewall
Fuel Pressure regulator: NA in tank Turbo on engine
Fuel Return Line: NA none Turbo yes
Pressure damper: NA near engine Turbo in tank
Electrical connector: same

I'm going to use the turbo version in my tank with an new Aeromotive 340 Stealth pump.

[icky]

Weird, my 05 fxt had one that looks like the one on the left. Installed a walbro 460L incorrectly, needs higher guage wire, I'll snap a pic when I fix it.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Weird, my 05 fxt had one that looks like the one on the left. Installed a walbro 460L incorrectly, needs higher guage wire, I'll snap a pic when I fix it.

Interesting: looks like Subaru bounced around on fuel supply configurations.
Edit: I would like to see a picture of an 05-07 turbo pump, filter combo.

Bob

[Westview]

Edit: I would like to see a picture of an 05-07 turbo pump, filter combo.

Bob


Here's the one that came with my Donor pallet from Wayne (Should be out of a 2006 WRX Wagon):
30709

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Here's the one that came with my Donor pallet from Wayne (Should be out of a 2006 WRX Wagon):
30709
Thanks Westview,
That looks like the filter sock out of my 04 FXT. Do you know it the 06 wrx filter was in the tank or on the firewall?
Bob

[Westview]

Thanks Westview,
That looks like the filter sock out of my 04 FXT. Do you know it the 06 wrx filter was in the tank or on the firewall?
Bob

I can't say for sure, but I think they switched to the in-tank filter by 06.

[RM1SepEx]

My 05 had the in tank filter, I bought an 02 filter from NAPA and mounted it to the frame...

[Bob_n_Cincy]

A friend of mine spotted an 818 on "US421 The Snake" last weekend. Any one know who it was?
The Snake . . . " 33 miles 489 curves 3 mountains 1 valley . . . from Mountain City, TN to Bristol, TN

[wleehendrick]

A friend of mine spotted an 818 on "US421 The Snake" last weekend. Any one know who it was?
The Snake . . . " 33 miles 489 curves 3 mountains 1 valley . . . from Mountain City, TN to Bristol, TN

Probably the guy who bought Erik's!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Had some time this weekend to work on the blue ICE car .
Installed front firewall and tighten up most of the front suspension.
31519

Also installed the pedal box.
Added a 2 x2 x 1/8" 16" long to mount the gas pedal. See pictures
3152031521
Bob

[thall818]

Hey Bob, I just mocked up my suspension just like yours and was told my upper a-arm bushings were upside down. That the grease fittings point up instead of down. I think there are conflicting photos in the manual. I'm not sure, just passing on what I was told.

Also, my ball joints sit in flat sockets, yours are tilted. Any idea why the differences?

Travis

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Bob, I just mocked up my suspension just like yours and was told my upper a-arm bushings were upside down. That the grease fittings point up instead of down. I think there are conflicting photos in the manual. I'm not sure, just passing on what I was told.

Also, my ball joints sit in flat sockets, yours are tilted. Any idea why the differences?

Travis

Hi Travis
Thanks for your comments.
The grease fitting work either way. I think it is personal preference on the easiest way to get to them once the fenders are on.
The earlier kits came with the angled "A" arms. I would rather have the straight ones.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I am using some Teflon Braided Stainless Steel fuel line.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220985

I have found some quick connect fitting to connect it to the engines fuel feed line.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-644113
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220141

My problem is the return line. The engine has a 5/16 tube with a bulge in it. What is the proper way to adapt my hose to the Subaru tube?
Thanks
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Getting ready for the Front gas Tank Installation. Removed bottom bars to be replaced by bolt in bars and steel intrusion plate.
All brake and clutch lines run inside the cockpit.

32710

Covered Fire wall with some Dynamat.

32711

Filled gas tank with some safety foam.

32712

Lengthen Subaru fuel pump bracket and wires.

32713

Used tubular sending unit.

32714

Mounted tank in Car.

32715


55752


14 gallons total, Maybe 13 usable.
Fuel lines tomorrow.
Bob

[Frank818]

Very very nice.

Is that foam made just for that tank or it can go in the FFR tank? Actually, I think I don't understand its safety feature, if you haven't yet, maybe you can explain?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Very very nice.

Is that foam made just for that tank or it can go in the FFR tank? Actually, I think I don't understand its safety feature, if you haven't yet, maybe you can explain?

See link:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rci-7050a/overview/


"safety foam reduces fuel slosh and helps to suppress explosions."

Cannot use with gas level sending unit that have a float on the end of an arm.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Has anybody else considered a rear mounted radiator?
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

yes, but I don't think airflow is enough with current configuration. I think you could do a rear mounted IC...

to do it you would need to do some big time airflow work

[Bob_n_Cincy]

yes, but I don't think airflow is enough with current configuration. I think you could do a rear mounted IC..
to do it you would need to do some big time airflow work

I need to talk to one on my aerodynamic engineer friends. I would think rear vacuum should be as strong as front ram air.

I do plan on opening up the side vents to ram the air into the engine bay. All that air will have to go out through the rear radiator.

With side vent ram air and rear vacuum, it might be better than the radiator in front.
Bob

[Frank818]

Do we know any production car using such a design?

[Boog]

80's 911?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I temporarily mounted my rear radiator. It will move forward 6" after I shorten my transmission.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=32903&d=1409195470

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=32904&d=1409195472

Oh yea, the fans work running backwards.
Bob

[Boog]

Very slick.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I also moved my expansion tank on top of the frame rail. I'm thinking the higher the better.
Bob

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=32905&d=1409202066

[Boog]

Are you still planning on going with a front fuel tank? Any thoughts as to the design?

[RM1SepEx]

Are you going to open up the side vents fully vs. using the smallish cuts supported by the FFR vent screens and trim? Moving the IC too?

[metalmaker12]

I like the idea, but this seems like it will get hot air vented to it without direct ducting (the turbo and exhaust should be fully insulated). I would think the heat soak potential would be very great. I am interested it what else you add to this setup to make it effective. Definitely outside the box thinking, and hopefully it can yield a postive result.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Are you still planning on going with a front fuel tank? Any thoughts as to the design?
Not planning any more, Check out post 145 above.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Are you going to open up the side vents fully vs. using the smallish cuts supported by the FFR vent screens and trim? Moving the IC too?
I will be opening up the side vents fully and then some. Maybe something like this:
32913

Also going to a AWIC. I have not decided on location of heat exchanger.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I like the idea, but this seems like it will get hot air vented to it without direct ducting (the turbo and exhaust should be fully insulated). I would think the heat soak potential would be very great. I am interested it what else you add to this setup to make it effective. Definitely outside the box thinking, and hopefully it can yield a postive result.

Hey Metalmaker,
I do plan on fully insulating the exhaust the best I can.

I think you are talking about heat soaking the main radiator. I plan on bringing as much air as possible into the engine compartment. Enlarged side vents and possibly opening up the side pods right behind the front wheels.

Metal, you are the main reason I went this direction. An engine under high load forms little bubbles, like the bottom of a pot about to boil. These bubbles all collect together some where and form an air lock in the cooling system. I think this is what happened to your engine. Possible in the top of your heads or in the front radiator. Were your blown head gaskets at the top of the engine?

As far as heat soaking the IC. I will be going to AWIC.
Thinking outside the box has been my career. I have fallen on my face many times. Note to self: Learn from my mistakes.

Bob

[RM1SepEx]

I will be opening up the side vents fully and then some. Maybe something like this:
32913

Also going to a AWIC. I have not decided on location of heat exchanger.
Bob

your side vents will be like my right side vent for my IC... I'm hoping to keep with my CF theme now that I got a CF street spoiler too

[Frank818]

I will be opening up the side vents fully and then some. Maybe something like this:
32913

That is not much more than FFR. Not easy to see on picture but it looks very similar.

Interesting installation of the rad, I personally won't do it that way as air would be too hot moving through the rad, knowing my engine and turbo. I do not know for the Subaru engine/turbo combo, though. Can't wait to see results of this out-of-the-(blue:))-box setup.

[metalmaker12]

Hey Metalmaker,
I do plan on fully insulating the exhaust the best I can.

I think you are talking about heat soaking the main radiator. I plan on bringing as much air as possible into the engine compartment. Enlarged side vents and possibly opening up the side pods right behind the front wheels.

Metal, you are the main reason I went this direction. An engine under high load forms little bubbles, like the bottom of a pot about to boil. These bubbles all collect together some where and form an air lock in the cooling system. I think this is what happened to your engine. Possible in the top of your heads or in the front radiator. Were your blown head gaskets at the top of the engine?

As far as heat soaking the IC. I will be going to AWIC.
Thinking outside the box has been my career. I have fallen on my face many times. Note to self: Learn from my mistakes.

Bob


Interesting observation, I am thinking my motor may have had this issue and high iats which caused piston ringlands to crack. I like your idea, just not so sure how the heat will effect this setup. I went with the hard coolant line kit by Mike Everson. This should help with the bubble build up that the corrugated lines create. One cracked low and one higher. I also had a coolant leak which could have just shortened coolant and sucked in air through overflow

[D Clary]

The cooling system should not form bubbles, that is what the thermostat and pressure cap prevent. The thermostat. is a restriction in the flow of coolant effectively raising the pressure in the block. the pressure cap keeps pressure on the entire system. if the system is full there will be no bubbles. Air can become trapped in the corrugated tubing but should bleed out fairly quickly.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

The cooling system should not form bubbles, that is what the thermostat and pressure cap prevent. The thermostat. is a restriction in the flow of coolant effectively raising the pressure in the block. the pressure cap keeps pressure on the entire system. if the system is full there will be no bubbles. Air can become trapped in the corrugated tubing but should bleed out fairly quickly.
Hi D Clary,
If I recall correctly, water/glycol at 16 psi still boils and forms EDIT: STEAM bubbles at about 250F.
I do agree that it is very important to get all the air out of the system.
Even with no air in the system at start, it is still possible to boil over if you cooling isn't greater than the heat load. EDIT: What come out of the overflow is not air. It is just water in it's heated state (steam)
Bob

[CanadianYank]

Nice build Bob, really like the wiring on the ECU panel, slick. I had a similar plan but not as compact as that! I want to use cannon plugs for bulkhead connections. The radiator plan should work, I had a friend that did something similar with a Fiero kit build and it cooled fine. This Subaru Rally car has it in the boot and all IC up front...

http://bbs.scoobynet.com/projects-40/898436-gr-impreza-rallycross-supercar-build.html

Frank

[metalmaker12]

Hi D Clary,
If I recall correctly, water/glycol at 16 psi still boils and forms EDIT: STEAM bubbles at about 250F.
I do agree that it is very important to get all the air out of the system.
Even with no air in the system at start, it is still possible to boil over if you cooling isn't greater than the heat load. EDIT: What come out of the overflow is not air. It is just water in it's heated state (steam)

Bob

Use Blue Honda coolant, does not form bubbles until the car would be cremated.

[CanadianYank]

Bob here is that Fiero kit rear rad I was talking about.

http://www.fiero.nl/cgi-bin/fiero/showThread.cgi?forum=Archive-000001&thread=20130314-2-120366&style=printable

He ducted the side vents into the radiator and also had ECU fan control...

Frank

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob here is that Fiero kit rear rad I was talking about.

http://www.fiero.nl/cgi-bin/fiero/showThread.cgi?forum=Archive-000001&thread=20130314-2-120366&style=printable

He ducted the side vents into the radiator and also had ECU fan control...

Frank

Hey Frank, thanks for sharing.
Wow, That corvette v8 was really stuffed in there.
I'm not going to duct air to the radiator. I just going to bring a lot of air into the whole engine compartment and exhaust it all out through the radiator. I will use the 2 donor fans to push out the air.
Bob
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

This picture reminds me of my son.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=33436&d=1410410927

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I usually don't like to post pictures until I have something done.
I just spent 7 hours wiring the underside of my dash. I'm about 70% done, before I clean up the wiring with split loom.
Included under the dash:
Battery disconnect switch
Main fuse box, I deleted the small fuse box.
Fuel Pump controller,
starter interlock relay.
Fuel pump relay
Gauge cluster.
Switch panel for Ignition, start, horn, headlights and fan override,
I deleted all steering column mounted controls.
It looks like a mess now, but it should clean up nicely.
Bob
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=33517&d=1410654103

[RM1SepEx]

You should see how mine looks right now! Your's is neat as a pin compared to mine (minimal diet)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

You should see how mine looks right now! Your's is neat as a pin compared to mine (minimal diet)
I did a full diet.
every unneeded wire is gone.
Every needed wire is shortened or extend as necessary.
We will find out in a couple of day if it still runs.
Bob

[CanadianYank]

Bob, I really like the color. That blue is electric for sure! :cool:

Frank

[CanadianYank]

Got to look at the kit today! "Triathletedave" invited me over to see his 818s build and nope I'm not fitting in a stock configuration... So my tank is going in the front like yours. Dave also pointed out many fitment issues with the radiator and piping up front so I think your on target with the radiator in the rear as well.

After seeing Dave's I think I would have enough room to lay the radiator on its side over the transmission and duct some air from the lid deck. I'm running NA so I shouldn't have any fitment issues.

Frank

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Got to look at the kit today! "Triathletedave" invited me over to see his 818s build and nope I'm not fitting in a stock configuration... So my tank is going in the front like yours. Dave also pointed out many fitment issues with the radiator and piping up front so I think your on target with the radiator in the rear as well.

After seeing Dave's I think I would have enough room to lay the radiator on its side over the transmission and duct some air from the lid deck. I'm running NA so I shouldn't have any fitment issues.

Frank


Hi Frank
I am going to open up the side vents to about double the size of the 818 standard.
Bob

[Frank818]

I am going to open up the side vents to about double the size of the 818 standard.

Hey Bob, how will do you it? Will you enlarge the exterior part of it or will you just cut a little forward on the inner side of the vent? Or other means... I also want bigger vents, so I am curious at your solution.

[RM1SepEx]

Frank, it is easy to open them up all the way to the edge of the opening, don't use that aluminum "trim" ring, you will double the open area...

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Bob, how will do you it? Will you enlarge the exterior part of it or will you just cut a little forward on the inner side of the vent? Or other means... I also want bigger vents, so I am curious at your solution.
Hi Frank,
Not only am I going to eliminate the trim ring, I am going to add a couple of cuts and push the vent open further. See picture.
Kind of like the new vents for the R only backwards.
Bob33561

[Frank818]

Tnx Dan.

Bob you mean you going to stretch inwards the section between your 2 red lines? I thought of that. And fill the voids with fiberglass. Well I can't wait to see your results, very interested.

[RM1SepEx]

I cut out 2/3 of that...

33568

once I have an external "scoop" it should capture a ton of air for my IC

[Frank818]

I cut out 2/3 of that...

33568

True, I forgot about that. I would need louvers to cover that hole, though. I wouldn't want to leave it wide open like that.

[flynntuna]

Hi Frank,
Not only am I going to eliminate the trim ring, I am going to add a couple of cuts and push the vent open further. See picture.
Kind of like the new vents for the R only backwards.
Bob33561


Bob, something like this?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob, something like this?
Yes, something like the Audi, but I wasn't going to go forward of the door seam.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

My car went through a major wire dissection.
Every signal wire was spliced to proper length.
Under dash fuse box was eliminated from the system.
Remove EVERY unnecessary wire.
Converted from Auto to manual transmission.
33739 33740

My method for first power up is to put a 3 ohm resistor in the main battery lead. (limits current to 4 amps if there is a short)
All was good except on connector that was not plugged in all the way.
Best of all ZERO ECU FAULT CODES.
Planning on first start tomorrow.

Do you think they would let me SCCA autocross in go kart mode Sunday?
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Can one of you Subaru guys out there tell me about my engine.
My donor was a 2004 FXT automatic. AVCS on intake valves and DBW. Some have told me the engine has STI internal components.
What exactly does this mean?
If I put a bigger turbo and IC with a tune. Will I be at 300hp/300ft-lbs and good to go?
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

Bob, just review the AMod class rules, meet them, good to go. You will need a harness for example...

[Hindsight]

Nice, very clean looking wiring on that panel! Can you recommend a good de-pinning tool? I have one for VWs but I'm guessing it won't work on Subie connectors.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Nice, very clean looking wiring on that panel! Can you recommend a good de-pinning tool? I have one for VWs but I'm guessing it won't work on Subie connectors.

For the ecu connector. I tried a GM tool and ground it down very small. But still didn't work. I just spliced, did not remove any pins.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Bob and Mikes first start Video.
Plan to be go karting this week.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tRn_sobXJpY

Michael and I were surprised at how quiet it was without a muffler.
How much is the CAT quieting it down. Will it be a lot louder without a cat?
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

The car Idled today for 45 minutes before the fans kicked on. Is this normal?
Bob

[JeromeS13]

What were the temps?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

What were the temps?
In about 10 min the engine block got to 185F and the exhaust manifold 335F turbo 350F.
At start the radiator was at 92. The top starting getting hot to 180 in about 15 minutes.
The bottom of the radiator took about 40 minutes to get to about 170F.
At 45 minutes the fans came on low and ran to about 5 minutes. At this point the bottom of the radiator dropped to 130F.
The more I think about it, this all sounds good.

Other info.
Fuel system all good. No leaks. Put 2 gallon in tank and gauge just a hair over empty.
Cooling system, all good. It sucked in about 8oz after engine cooled off.
Electrical system, no shorts or opens found yet. headlight and tail lights not wired yet.
ECU had 4 fault codes.
1. no serial communication with missing automatic transmission.
2. Rear O2 sensor not heating. it was not mounted yet.
3. & 4. evap system problems. We don't have an evap system.
So all codes were explainable.
All dash gauges seem to work ok.

Bob

[DMC7492]

Congrats on the start! Very satisfying with the harness diet! However I am bit jealous as I don't have my engine installed yet.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Congrats on the start! Very satisfying with the harness diet! However I am bit jealous as I don't have my engine installed yet.
Thanks
I figure I made about 400-500 wire cuts and 200-250 splices.
No mistakes found yet.
As Hannibal from the A Team always said: "I LOVE IT WHEN A PLAN COMES TOGETHER"
Bob

[matteo92065]

very nice. I like the out-of-box thinking on the cooling system.

[RM1SepEx]

Thanks
I figure I made about 400-500 wire cuts and 200-250 splices.
No mistakes found yet.
As Hannibal from the A Team always said: "I LOVE IT WHEN A PLAN COMES TOGETHER"
Bob

I've been debating many of those cuts vs covering it with wire loom and dropping them into the tunnel...

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I've been debating many of those cuts vs covering it with wire loom and dropping them into the tunnel...
Most of my cuts were in this panel.
33821
Then I made all the wire that go to the front about 10 ft long.
Once I had all the components where I wanted them, I started cutting and splicing again.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Mounted my G-tuned Shifter tonight.
I know it doesn't have the bling of a the k-tuned shifter. Our goal is to autocross next week.
The bling is on the back burner.
No Duct Tape, but a lot of 200 mph zip ties.
Bob

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=33918&d=1411609452

[CanadianYank]

Bob how does that seat feel with the cross brace against your left leg? I would think I would remove it. Is it bothersome? I plan on Kirkeys as well...

Frank

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hi Frank,
Using KIR-47900 Seat, Aluminum, Intermediate Road Race, 15 Degree Layback, 18 in. Hip Width,
I added a custom bend to the back of the kirkey seat. It is 5.5" from firewall at bottom. 2.5" at the 10" high bar and touching the 24" square bar and touching the angled roll bar.
The cross brace is right under my bent knee. So no problem at all.
Here is a picture of my seat test a long time ago. I will be permanently installing it this week. I'll post more pictures.
Bob
33924

[Bob_n_Cincy]

This week I am going to Turn In Concepts to do a dynamometer run for 2 reasons.

First: To make sure everything in my engine is running proper.
I don't want anything going on that will break the motor, like a lot have experienced.

Second: I want to establish a base line for my engine.
So I can see the result of modifications I make later.

Currently my 2004 FXT 2.5L turbo AVCS DBW engine (93K) is pretty close to stock. The only significant change is that I have no exhaust after the catalytic converters.
The published numbers on my engine are:
210 max HP @ crankshaft
235 max ft-lbs @ crankshaft

Does anyone want to take a guess at my wheel HP and torque numbers will be?

I would also like to get some opinions on my future mod list.
My application is Autocross, track day and daily driver.
I put the list in the order of importance.


Engine reliability mods
Air to water intercooler
STI style oil Pan and pick up.
Accusump
External Oil cooler
Low oil pressure / hot engine LOUD buzzer (marine type)

Help engine breath easier.
K&N air Filter
tgv delete
equal length headers
up pipe without CAt
down pipe with out CAT

Misc improvements
add gauges
Wide band AFR
Boost gauge
AOS system


Performance Mods
bigger turbo
turbo blanket

Please make recommendations as you see fit.
Thanks
Bob

[Hindsight]

Bob, I like the upgrade list above. It's nearly identical to mine including the wide band AFR etc. If you later go with a bigger turbo, depending on how big you go, most of them will require a fuel pump and injector upgrade too. Also, it seems that anything more than a stock turbo with a tune is going to really be pushing the stock pistons so you'll probably want to price in some machine work and some forged pistons in that stage of the build, unless you are ok with the high chance of blowing your ring lands and then doing a bigger build after that happens.

RE the headers.... not much bang for the buck with the stock turbo. It will also take away the characteristic subie rumble and make it sound more like a Honda instead. Some don't care about that, some do.... but a good header runs $800 - $1700 and you will want to spend more money on header wrap or coating (wrap is the way to go IMHO). You can get a bolt-on turbo upgrade for that kind of money. It also seems to be a challenge to find a header that will fit in the 818.

RE your tuned HP rating with current components.... ~250-270 WHP would be my guess, but it depends on how aggressive they go with it and the brand of Dyno.

Good luck with it and keep us posted!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

more than a stock turbo with a tune is going to really be pushing the stock pistons so you'll probably want to price in some machine work and some forged pistons

I believe the 04 forester xt came with strong internals. Is this correct?



RE the headers.... not much bang for the buck with the stock turbo. It will also take away the characteristic subie rumble and make it sound more like a Honda instead. Some don't care about that, some do.... but a good header runs $800 - $1700

I was going to use a EL header off my NA engine with a custom up pipe and cat removed.
33993
I want it to sound like a Porsche, not a Honda.

I'm not going to do a tune yet. Just a verification.
It is a Dyno Dynamics AWD unit

[Hindsight]

I believe the 04 forester xt came with strong internals. Is this correct?

I haven't been in Subaru's long enough to know... maybe one of the resident Subaru gurus on the forum will chime in on that one.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

This week I am going to Turn In Concepts to do a dynamometer run for 2 reasons.

First: To make sure everything in my engine is running proper.
I don't want anything going on that will break the motor, like a lot have experienced.

Second: I want to establish a base line for my engine.
So I can see the result of modifications I make later.

Currently my 2004 FXT 2.5L turbo AVCS DBW engine (93K) is pretty close to stock. The only significant change is that I have no exhaust after the catalytic converters.
The published numbers on my engine are:
210 max HP @ crankshaft
235 max ft-lbs @ crankshaft

Does anyone want to take a guess at my wheel HP and torque numbers will be?

I would also like to get some opinions on my future mod list.
My application is Autocross, track day and daily driver.
I put the list in the order of importance.


Engine reliability mods
Air to water intercooler
STI style oil Pan and pick up.
Accusump
External Oil cooler
Low oil pressure / hot engine LOUD buzzer (marine type)

Help engine breath easier.
K&N air Filter
tgv delete
equal length headers
up pipe without CAt
down pipe with out CAT

Misc improvements
add gauges
Wide band AFR
Boost gauge
AOS system


Performance Mods
bigger turbo
turbo blanket

Please make recommendations as you see fit.
Thanks
Bob
Anybody else have comments or suggestions on this?
Thanks
Bob

[CanadianYank]

Anybody else have comments or suggestions on this?
Thanks
Bob

Not a Suby expert Bob but Im interested in your findings. I'm guessing 30HP more? Good luck and have fun!

Frank

[wleehendrick]

I want it to sound like a Porsche, not a Honda.

But it'll sound like this Porsche:
34111
(pretty much like a Honda)
Not this one:
34112
unless you put an H6 in!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Tonight Michael and I both drove the 818 for the first time.
It was only a few hundred feet in and out of the garage.
Michael first comment was that it didn't have very good traction. Every time he would leave out the clutch the tires would spin:cool:

His next comment was that he thought he had to push on the brakes pretty hard.

I think both comment were understandable. The R888 were cold and the brand new south bend 2 stage clutch really grips. Michael normally dumps the clutch at 3000 Rpm on his 4wd impreza and he only thing hat slips is the clutch.

Second, He has never driven a car with manual brakes. The power booster increases the pressure by a factor of 6.
Bob

[Quiny]

You may already know this but the proportioning valve needs to be screwed in all the way to have no effect, I never read the instructions and assumed out was bypassing.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

You may already know this but the proportioning valve needs to be screwed in all the way to have no effect, I never read the instructions and assumed out was bypassing.

Hi Quiny, thanks for the suggestion.
I don't have the proportioning valve installed.
Instead of reducing pressure to front brakes, I plan to increase the size of the rear brakes.
I also have antilock actuator installed (plumbed) but not wired yet.
Bob

[Quiny]

I also have antilock actuator installed (plumbed) but not wired yet.
Bob

Do you mean the stock ABS or is this something different? If it is something different please elaborate. I was thinking the same thing about increasing the size of the rears to compensate, I hate the idea of a front proportioning valve.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Do you mean the stock ABS or is this something different? If it is something different please elaborate. I was thinking the same thing about increasing the size of the rears to compensate, I hate the idea of a front proportioning valve.
I am using the stock ABS unit.
I also hate the idea of a front proportioning valve on the 818. I have a plan for the rear brakes see post# ( I will edit when I find it) couldn't find it but here is a picture. Basically changing to a vented rotor with a dual piston caliper should double my rear braking force. Then I will put a proportioning valve on the back if needed.
Bob

34254

[metalmaker12]

From my experience with the 818 the brakes are more than we need with the 4pot/2pot setup I am running. I can smoke the tires and come to a hault with great control. As you mention manuel brakes do feel like you have to push harder when you first try them, but once you get used to them, IMO they have a much better feel and control on a lite race car. Abs can't hurt.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Michael and I just had the second biggest day in our 818 life.
The best day was the day we pick up the kits.
Today we spent the afternoon at Turn In Concepts.

Got a Dom tune
measured corner weights
did a bunch of go karting.

First corner weights:
Michael adjusted ride height to 4.5 eyeballing the spring to get them to equal lengths.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34419&d=1412729058
Michael was within 1%. Not bad for a rookie.

Also the total weight of 1564 LBS in go kart mode. We might make the magic 818kg number.:rolleyes:

[Frank818]

Wow, those are spot on!!! With or without Mike in the car?

I never realized the body panels would weight as much as 300lbs.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Wow, those are spot on!!! With or without Mike in the car?

I never realized the body panels would weight as much as 300lbs.
they don't.
we are in go kart mode. no doors, no windshield, no dash, no nose steel.
34433

without Michael or I in the car. We won't talk about those numbers. Let's just say either one of us would easily but it over 1800 lbs.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

While we were at Turn In Concepts http://turninconcepts.com/today we had them check out the performance of our engine.
Totally stock 2004 XT 2.5L TD04 Stock Turbo 90k miles
Tune done by Dom Acia of http://getadomtune.com/about.html

After Dom deleted all my CEL codes (evap system and automatic transmission)
He took a look at the power.


http://youtu.be/jHPyrY8GeZQ

Boost was set at 12psi
Out of the box we were at 185whp
He did his magic an raised it to 195.5whp
344283442634427

I love the way it stays near peak hp from 4000 to 6500 rpms. Means I won't upset the car if I keep the rpm between those 2 points when shifting.
220 ft-lbs torque means 1.48g in 1st (if tires would stick) 0.88G in second and 0.62 G in third. I'm good with that.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Tony and Dom of Turn In Concepts take the 818 out for a spin (wet roads with slicks)
By the way, Tony (dark hair) is 6"2"


http://youtu.be/HMoxIhjYX0c

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I learned a couple interesting ECU functions yesterday at the tuners.
1. The neutral safety switch and the speedometer must be hooked up for AVCS to work
2. I have a DBW (drive by wire) throttle. I do not have a throttle pedal stop installed. Pushing the pedal al the way down causes an ECU fault and puts it in LIMP mode. Disconnecting battery power for a few seconds will reset the ECU.

LTD
Bob

[svanlare]

Picking up the news a couple of days late. Congrats on the runs, major milestone accomplished!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Picking up the news a couple of days late. Congrats on the runs, major milestone accomplished!
Thanks Steve,
After scales, dyno, and go karting we had a meeting to discuss modification.

Immediate action Items:
Accusump
AWIC
Pedal Stop
Oil Cooler
motor/trans mounts

[Hindsight]

Regarding the DBW pedal stop.... How do you know where to set the stop?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Regarding the DBW pedal stop.... How do you know where to set the stop?
I had no clue.
This is what I found in the manual.
Says stroke should be 2.05 to 2.24 inches.

34463

[Hindsight]

Ah cool thank you. The manual surprises me...... sometimes it omits things that are critical and other times it defines everything (like gas pedal travel lol).

Adding a note for this in my build notes.

[Jaime]

If you think about it, this is a necessary safety feature. As the pedal goes down, the sensor resistance goes down and the voltage goes up. At some point, the resistance goes down to a point where it looks like a short circuit. If the ECU didn't freak out about this, then if there was ever a short in the pedal wires, the car would get stuck at full throttle.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

If you think about it, this is a necessary safety feature. As the pedal goes down, the sensor resistance goes down and the voltage goes up. At some point, the resistance goes down to a point where it looks like a short circuit. If the ECU didn't freak out about this, then if there was ever a short in the pedal wires, the car would get stuck at full throttle.
My pedal actually has redundant potentiometers in it. That's why it has 6 wires.
34472

[Mechie3]

Any reason to keep the boost at 12psi? Running a stock downpipe? I used to run my 06 (same engine and turbo as your FXT) at 21 (stock block, plenty of other mods).

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Any reason to keep the boost at 12psi? Running a stock downpipe? I used to run my 06 (same engine and turbo as your FXT) at 21 (stock block, plenty of other mods).

I am not a turbo guy, but 21psi out of a TD04 sounds like a lot.
My up and down pipe are both stock and both have cats.
I asked for at tune at stock pressures for reliability and to get used to driving the car. I am very glad I did. This car at 1564 lbs, is stupid fast.
Dom told me my engine was the same as an STI, if I add a stock STI turbo and intercooler. Then could be at 300+ HP.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

A little off topic, but I guess I can hijack my own thread.

Just got word "Jay likes our bike"
He took it out for an hour ride in the hills around silicon valley.
Bob

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34482&d=1412870022

[Quiny]

A little off topic, but I guess I can hijack my own thread.

Just got word "Jay likes our bike"
He took it out for an hour ride in the hills around silicon valley.
Bob

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34482&d=1412870022

That is incredible, what an accomplishment. He must have really enjoyed it to be out an hour. Congratulations, when do they go into production?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

That is incredible, what an accomplishment. He must have really enjoyed it to be out an hour. Congratulations, when do they go into production?
last month was the official release.

[Mechie3]

I am not a turbo guy, but 21psi out of a TD04 sounds like a lot.
My up and down pipe are both stock and both have cats.
I asked for at tune at stock pressures for reliability and to get used to driving the car. I am very glad I did. This car at 1564 lbs, is stupid fast.
Dom told me my engine was the same as an STI, if I add a stock STI turbo and intercooler. Then could be at 300+ HP.
Bob

It was a lot. Pushing the edges of what it can reliably do. Lasted for 4 years before the car was totaled. The cat's would be a big reason not to do that. Stock downpipe has the flat flange too which causes problems.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

It was a lot. Pushing the edges of what it can reliably do. Lasted for 4 years before the car was totaled. The cat's would be a big reason not to do that. Stock downpipe has the flat flange too which causes problems.

Hi Craig
I think I will like my motor curve with 12PSI of boost.
34490
If I get rid of the cat in the up pipe and go with an exhaust like stickshifts.
Where could I get to raising the boost? (staying with the TD04)
Bob

[svanlare]

Immediate action Items:
Accusump
AWIC
Pedal Stop
Oil Cooler
motor/trans mounts

AWIC and Oil cooler I'm considering what to do in the initial build now. I'll be watching the mods here and on some of the other threads closely as cooling seems to be a recurring theme.

[Stickshift84]

Awesome work guys and great videos!!! Keep up the great work. Seeing your power level puts my car and a bigger build plan in perspective. My engine is hurt but further modified than yours and only making about 14 psi now. So I figure am making maybe 230 hp. It is simply a blast to drive. Cant wait to feel mine once I get it around 300 to the wheels (end goal).

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Michael's first drive

http://youtu.be/oPibSNzM3M8

[Frank818]

Were you somehow able to check how good/not so good the rear rad location works? I believe we have to wait for the full body to be on, but just in case you saw something out of the ordinary.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Were you somehow able to check how good/not so good the rear rad location works? I believe we have to wait for the full body to be on, but just in case you saw something out of the ordinary.

We have not run hard enough even for the ecu to turn on the radiator fans yet.
We did about 10 dyno pulls but TIC had a big fan blowing air through the radiator.
I have temporally mounted a fan for the TMIC.
We will not know for sure until hot weather, body on and a track day.
I am confident that there will be no issues.
But I have been wrong before and will be again.
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Went to bigger rear brake. Using front calipers on all four wheels. H6 rotor, drilling and grinding to mount the bracket. Brake pad modification also. I maintained the parking Brake. Sorry Rasmus this one is heavier.

Does anyone want to trade me for some matching red shocks?
Bob

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34625&d=1413254913

[Frank818]

What size rotor?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

What size rotor?

I could have put bigger front rotors on, This was the biggest that had the emergency brake features.
Oh yea, My 16" wheels fit if I take the powder coat off the caliper.
Bob

34665

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Michael and I did our fist 818 autocross today.
What a GREAT DAY IS WAS.

It was a test and tune so we just kept getting back in line. Our group had 3.5 hours of run time with runs about every 5 minutes. Between Michael and I we did about 40 runs.
New Big brakes work GREAT, Very balanced with no proportional valve.
No cooling system issues, Great Again,
We had an extra radiator fan on the intercooler. It only got warm, Maybe 100F. GREAT
All other systems working perfect.

Confirmed we have a transmission mount problem. OK, not so great.

Me 55 and Michael 17 had a day we will never forget.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34833&d=1413763509

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Here is a video of a typical run today.
For the last 2 season Mike and I have been driving a NA Impreza. Weight to power ratio of 20:1
The 818 today at 1600/225 = ~ 7:1 AWESOME


http://youtu.be/pnpo8Y4rOsg

[Frank818]

Another awesome test, Mike. No sorry, Bob. What's the tranny mount issue?

[metalmaker12]

Michael and I did out fist 818 autocross today.
What a GREAT DAY IS WAS.

It was a test and tune so we just kept getting back in line. Our group had 3.5 hours of run time with runs about every 5 minutes. Between Michael and I we did about 40 runs.
New Big brakes work GREAT, Very balanced with no proportional valve.
No cooling system issues, Great Again,
We had an extra radiator fan on the intercooler. It only got warm, Maybe 100F. GREAT
All other systems working perfect.

Confirmed we have a transmission mount problem. OK, not so great.

Me 55 and Michael 17 had a day we will never forget.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34833&d=1413763509

It all changes with body on guys, especially the iat temps. Did you monitor the temps, do you have data on the ambient vs post IC etc. how much boost were you running? l
Looking good and glad you had fun!!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

It all changes with body on guys, especially the iat temps. Did you monitor the temps, do you have data on the ambient vs post IC etc. how much boost were you running? l
Looking good and glad you had fun!!

Hi Metal,
Unfortunately we did not have any data logging going on.
Just need to spend some time and figure out how to do it.
To avoid problem I just slapped a extra radiator fan on top of the intercooler.
I do plan to use AWIC going forward.
Ambient was in the 50s today. Intercool was not even getting warm. We were running 12 PSI stock boost TD04 (2004 FXT donor)
Bob

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Another awesome test, Mike. No sorry, Bob. What's the tranny mount issue?

The big round holes in my frame near the transmission mount are not big enough.
The hooks on the transmission mount slam the frame on each launch.
34835

[metalmaker12]

Hi Metal,
Unfortunately we did not have any data logging going on.
Just need to spend some time and figure out how to do it.
To avoid problem I just slapped a extra radiator fan on top of the intercooler.
I do plan to use AWIC going forward.
Ambient was in the 50s today. Intercool was not even getting warm. We were running 12 PSI stock boost TD04 (2004 FXT donor)
Bob

There's a few ways to log, tantrix cable to USB and test connectors to laptop and the Cobb unit along with the plx device logger etc.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

There's a few ways to log, tantrix cable to USB and test connectors to laptop and the Cobb unit along with the plx device logger etc.

Thanks Metal
I was going to go open-source. But after talking with TIC last week about some of the changes I had in mind. They are saying I need to go to Accessport.
Bob